The Complete Guide To Ceramic Tile PDF

The Complete Guide to
CeramiC Tile Third edition
Updated with New Products & Techniques
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOtA
www.creativepub.com
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Contents
The Complete Guide to
88
Ceramic Tile
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Gallery of Tile Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Ceramic Tile Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

88 88
Floor Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Wall Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Types of Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Buying Tile & Tiling Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Cutting Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Materials & Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 88
Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Materials: Levelers & Resurfacers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Materials: Tile Backer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Materials: Tile Membranes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Materials: Thinset Mortar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Materials: Grout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Tools for Removing Old Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Tools for Repairing Substrates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Tools for Installing Substrates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Tools for Layout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Tools for Cutting Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 56 56

56 56
Tools for Setting & Grouting Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Floor Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Gallery of Flooring Tile Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Evaluating & Preparing Floors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Removing Floor Coverings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

56
56
Removing Underlayment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
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Contents (Cont.)
90
90 96
96
Underlayment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Radiant Floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
106
106
Ceramic Floor Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Stone & Mosaic Tile Floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Glass Mosaic Tile Floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
DIY Mosaic Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Combination Tile Floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Porcelain Snap-lock Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 123

123 124
124
Shower Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Wall Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Gallery of Wall Tile Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Evaluating & Preparing Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Removing Wall Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130

138
138
Installing & Finishing Wallboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Installing Cementboard on Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Wall Tile Layouts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Installing Wall Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Installing a Tub Tile Surround . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Tiled Tub Apron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Tile Wall Niche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
Retrofit Accent Strip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Fireplace Surround . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
Countertops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
Tile Countertop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170

169
169
Granite Tile Countertop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
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184
184 188
188
Tiled Backsplash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Tiled Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Outdoor Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Tiled Steps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
Tiled Patio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Outdoor Fountain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Decorative Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211

193
193
Creating Mosaic Planters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
Bathroom Mirror Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
Address Marker Mosaic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
Mosaic Wall Hanging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Tiled Sink Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
Handmade Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226

194
194
Tiled Garden Bench . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
Repair Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
Maintaining Floor Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
Grout Colorant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
Repairing Wall Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
212
212 223
223
Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
Conversions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
Credits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
230
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 230
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Introduction
B uilding materials evolve and change very quickly in the do-it-yourself world. New formulations, advanced
installation systems, and a host of “plug-and-play” gimmicks make keeping pace with the things we put into
our houses a constant battle. But ceramic tile is different. Although trends, colors, and shapes may look slightly
different from year to year, tiling is a lifelong skill that will serve you well as long as you own your home.
Laying tile is a very popular DIY project for a number of reasons, but the primary appeal is that tile is a
manageable material that yields beautiful, long-lasting floors for a relatively small investment. Because of the
nature of the material and the installation process, you can work at your own pace. If you make an error, it is not
difficult to back up and re-do the work.
In The Complete Guide to Ceramic Tile, you will discover clear, beautifully photographed information that
shows you, step-by-step, exactly how to work with tile. Layout, installing subbases, cutting and fitting, setting,
grouting, and sealing are just some of the techniques you will learn.
The projects featured in this book show tile in just about every usage you’ll find around the home. By far,
floors are the most popular spot for tiling, and here you’ll get the full picture of how to lay out a floor grid and set
tile like a pro. Walls are also popular spots for tile, particularly in bathrooms, showers, and kitchen backsplashes.
Tiled countertops have many advantages over other countertop material, whether in the kitchens, the bathroom,
or even in your outdoor food preparation areas. Horizontal patio surfaces are also good candidates for tile in many
climates, and you’ll see how to approach these projects as well.
Because tile is a highly decorative material, it can be used to create fun items that may not have any practical
purpose other than to delight. Mirror frames, mosaic wall hangings, and tile-covered garden planting pots are just
a few of these. You’ll even find a complete how-to sequence on making your own fired ceramic tiles from raw clay.
Finally, any tile surface will require occasional repair and maintenance. From re-grouting a shower receptor
to replacing a broken wall tile, the last chapter in this books gives the essential information you need to keep your
tile looking its best for years to come.
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Gallery of Tile Projects
In this alcove, decorative tiles grace
a fireplace surround topped by a brick
mantel. The floor combines large quarry
tile with interesting accent tiles that
emphasize the Mediterranean feeling
of the patio. Accessories scattered
throughout the area echo the blue-and-
white theme set by the fireplace and
accent tiles.
This large contemporary bathroom is broken into distinct functional areas by the tile. The doorless shower is defined by field tile
in a straight set, while the dressing area is marked by a border and the reversal of color between the field and the edges. The mirror
above the sink is framed by field tile set on the diagonal. Finally, the sink area is set off by a shift in the size and shape of the field tile.
8 ■ THe CoMpLeTe GuIDe To CerAMIC TILe
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Lush floral photo murals sparkle against white tile backgrounds in this exotic bathroom.
Small mosaic tile in two colors provides a dramatic backdrop With a view like this, the best design is one that gets out
for a contemporary entryway. of its own way. This blue mosaic tile echoes the color of the
mountains without competing for attention.
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Mosaic tile, with its multitude of grout lines, is highly slip- Stair risers are typically invisible . With their colorful
resistant. A border defines the edges of this hallway and leads handpainted tile, these risers are anything but typical and are
the eye toward the next room. certainly not invisible.
Borders liven up walls and break up otherwise boring Stones cut to resemble river rocks make an unusual
expanses of solid color. bathroom floor. The stones, which are attached to a mesh
backing, are remarkably easy to install. Coordinating grout
blends the tiles; contrasting grout would emphasize the
individual stones.
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Terra-cotta (“baked earth”) tile is made by pressing Creative tilework can have a big impact in a very small
unrefined clay into molds and baking it. Its color is determined space. These custom, handmade backsplash tiles bring a
by minerals unique to the soil from which it is made. Machine- real shot of life to a small half bath where there are few
made terra-cotta tile can be laid like standard tile, but traditional opportunities for making a design statement.
terra-cotta, with its irregularities and uneven shapes, requires
more care during installation. Unglazed terra-cotta, which is
porous and absorbent, should be treated with sealant before
being installed in potentially wet locations, such as entries.
The golden color of this home’s exterior is reflected in the mottled tones of the tile patio and accented by the sunny yellow
patio furniture.
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Subway tile, or simple rectangular tile,
blends the shower into its surroundings.
The room is brightened considerably by a
backsplash of colorful mosaic tile. A niche,
cleverly sized and placed, creates the
appearance that the backsplash continues
behind the shower, and a mosaic floor
provides a visual anchor.
Artistic tile installations can go well beyond a nicely balanced mosaic and into bold abstract or contemporary designs. Here,
natural stone tiles are presented to depict a mountainous staircase rising up from the tub rim in a brightly lit bathroom alcove.
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Plain wall tile in solid colors makes a bold statement when Combining mosaic tile in a variety of colors and sizes
combined with accessories in similar or complementary colors. produces elegant designs. Elaborate patterns can be deceptively
easy to create with tile mounted to mesh backings. Even
pre-arranged borders are widely available. Mosaic tile of any
material is quite slip-resistant because of the many grout lines.
Mosaic tile—small, colorful tiles made

of ceramic, porcelain, terra-cotta, or
cement—can be installed on walls and
floors to form patterns and pictures or
just to add a splash of color. Mosaic tile
can be expensive, but covering the few
square feet of a backsplash, such as
this one, creates exciting decoration at a
reasonable price.
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Ceramic Tile
Basics
T ile is a simple material: a piece of clay that’s glazed
and fired. But visiting a tile store and choosing the
tile that’s right for you is hardly a simple act. Ceramic
or porcelain? Wall or floor? Squares or mosaic sheets?
With accents or without? Before you even start to
think about things like color and design, there are
many questions you’ll need to answer. The following
pages are a basic introduction to the wide array of tile
shapes, sizes, and functions you’ll encounter at your
average tile store. By studying up a bit, you can pre-
make some decisions and greatly simplify your tile-
buying experience.
Following the information on tile products,
you’ll find basic tile-handling skills needed for any
tile, regardless of type or style. primarily, this means
learning to cut your tiles to fit. Additional skills are
undoubtedly required for any tile installation project,
but because these vary by degree they will be covered
as each project type is discussed.
In this chapter:
• Floor Tile • Buying Tile
• Wall Tile & Tiling Materials
• Types of Tile • Cutting Tile
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Floor Tile
F loor tile needs to be more than just attractive—it

needs to be strong and durable as well. After all,
floors bear the weight of furniture, foot traffic, and
the sudden impact of every one and every thing that
falls on them. Floor tile is engineered to tolerate
these stresses. Most floor tile is also suitable for
countertops. And although it’s generally thicker and
heavier than wall tile, many styles of floor tile can be
used on walls. The trim pieces necessary for counters
and walls aren’t always available, though, which may
limit your options.
When shopping for tile, look for ratings by
the American National Standards Institute or the
porcelain enamel Institute (see below). If ratings
aren’t available, check with your dealer to make sure
the tile you’re considering is suitable for your project.
Before you start shopping, consider where the
tile will be used and what you want it to accomplish.
Will it be exposed to moisture? Should it be a focal
point or a subtle background? Do you want the floor to
establish the room’s color scheme or blend into it? The
range of options is truly mind-boggling, so establish
some guidelines before you go shopping to simplify the Floor tiles are thicker and almost always larger than wall
selection process. tiles. Ceramic floor tiles are usually between ¼ and ½" thick.
Floor Tile Ratings ▸

Floor tile often comes labeled with water absorption and suitable for walls only; tile rated 3 and 4 is suitable for all
Porcelain Enamel Institute (PEI) ratings. Ratings indicate residential applications—walls, counters, and floors. Most
how a tile can be used and whether or not it needs to be tile carries absorption and PEI ratings, but some, especially
sealed against moisture. Absorption is a concern because imported and art tiles, may not. Ask the retailer if you’re
tile that soaks up water is susceptible to mildew and mold not sure.
and can be difficult to clean. Tile is rated non-vitreous, Depending on the retailer, tile may also have
semi-vitreous, vitreous, or impervious, in increasing order other ratings. Some tile is graded 1 to 3 for the quality
of water resistance. Non-vitreous tile is quite porous; of manufacturing. Grade 1 indicates standard grade;
semi-vitreous is used in dry-to-occasionally-wet locations; 2 indicates minor glaze and size flaws; 3 indicates major
vitreous tile can be used without regard to its exposure flaws; use for decoration only. Tile suitable for outdoor use
to moisture. Impervious tile is generally reserved for is sometimes rated with regard to its resistance to frost.
restaurants, hospitals, and commercial applications where Finally, coefficient of friction numbers may be included with
sanitation is a special concern. some tile. The higher the coefficient, the more slip resistant
The PEI number is a wear rating that indicates how the tile. A dry coefficient of .6 is the minimum standard
the tile should be used. Ratings of 1 and 2 indicate tile is established by the Americans with Disabilities Act.
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Wall Tile
W all tile, unlike floor tile, doesn’t have the burden

of bearing weight or withstanding heavy traffic,
so it can be thinner, have finer finishes, and, in some
cases, be less expensive. Wall tile layouts tend to
have more exposed edges, so manufacturers often
offer matching trim and border pieces with finished
edges. Wall tile is generally self spacing—individual
tiles have small flanges on each edge to help keep
the spacing even. You can use floor tile on walls,
but since it is heavier, it tends to slide down during
installation. using battens while installing can help
solve this problem. Fewer styles of matching trim tile
are available for floor tile, which may make it difficult
to conceal unfinished edges.
Wall tile should not be used on floors or
countertops, however, because it will not stand up to
much weight or sudden impacts. If you have concerns
about a tile’s suitability for your application, ask your
retailer or look for ratings by the American National
Standards Institute or the porcelain enamel Institute.
Wall tile can be a fairly inconspicuous wall covering or,
if used in an elaborate design, can become the focal
point of a room. As with floor tiles, there are styles for
every effect from subtle to bold, so envision the effect Wall tiles are usually less than ¼" thick and no larger than
you want before you head to the tile store or home 6 × 6", with 4 × 4" tiles the most common. Lightweight tiles are
improvement center. less likely to sag during installation.
Wall Tile Ratings ▸

Most tile intended for walls comes labeled with a water tile, it may be graded from 1 to 3 for the quality of
absorption rating. As with floor tile, absorbent wall tile manufacturing. Grade 1 indicates standard grade, suitable
will be susceptible to mildew and mold and be difficult to for all installations. Grade 2 indicates minor glaze and size
clean. Tiles are rated non-vitreous, semi-vitreous, vitreous, flaws, but the tile is structurally standard. Grade 3 tiles may
and impervious, in increasing order of water resistance. be slightly irregular in shape and are decorative, suitable
Practically speaking, these ratings tell you whether your only for walls. Tiles with manufacturing irregularities may
tile may require sealant or if it can be left as is. Non- be more difficult to lay out and install precisely. If you live
vitreous and semi-vitreous do absorb noticeable amounts in a freeze zone and are looking for tile for outdoor walls,
of water and may need to be sealed in damp rooms like you’ll also want tile rated resistant to frost. If the frost-
bathrooms. Sealant can alter a tile’s appearance, so test resistance rating is not on the package, the retailer should
before you buy. be able to tell you. Some colored tile may come with a
There are a few other ratings to consider when graphic to indicate the degree of color variation from tile
purchasing wall tile. Depending on where you buy to tile—in most cases it will vary somewhat.
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Types of Tile
Glazed ceramic tile is made from clay pressed into a shape

by a machine, glazed, and then fired in a kiln. The glaze, made
up of a number of glass and metal elements, provides color and
creates a hard, shiny surface. To make floor tile slip-resistant,
the surface can be textured, given a slightly raised design, or the
glaze itself may include materials added to create a non-skid
surface. Glazed tile generally absorbs very little or no water,
making it both easy to maintain and mildew resistant. If the glaze
Porcelain tile is produced by pressing refined clay into is hard and scratch-resistant and the tile is properly installed and
shape and then firing it in a kiln at very high temperatures. The maintained, glazed ceramic tile can last for decades.
resulting tile is extremely hard, absorbs very little or no water,
and doesn’t stain or mildew. Porcelain tile is manufactured in
all shapes and sizes, and, because its white base color accepts
dye beautifully, a virtually unlimited range of colors and finishes
are available. Tile makers can also imprint textures when the
tile is pressed to create a slip-resistant surface well suited
for floors in wet locations. Porcelain tile is colored by mixing
dye into the clay rather than applying it in a glaze, which
means the color extends through the full thickness of the tile.
Because of this process, tile makers can press finer, more Glass tile is an especially interesting option for walls, although in
intricate textures and patterns into the tile. Porcelain tile can some applications it can be used on floors as well. It is available
even be pressed so that it’s nearly indistinguishable from cut in a variety of colors, degrees of translucency, shapes, and
stone, which tends to be more expensive but less durable. For sizes. Because most glass tile is translucent to some degree,
ease of care, porcelain is hard to beat. Its smooth finish and it’s important to use a white tile adhesive that won’t affect the
imperviousness to moisture keep soil and stains from setting appearance of the tiles once they are installed. Glass is impervious
in, making it easy to maintain. Note: grout can stain porous to moisture, but can be scratched and cracked, so it shouldn’t be
material, so take great care in grouting and be sure to follow installed where it will get hit by swinging doors or scratched by
manufacturer instructions. general traffic. See pages 24 to 25 to learn more about glass tile.
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Metal tiles are quite expensive per
square foot, but adding just a few to an
installation of glazed or porcelain tiles
can have a big impact. Metal tiles are
installed just like standard tiles, and they
are available in shapes and thicknesses to
work in most layouts. They are available
with smooth finishes, polished or
unpolished, and with embossed designs.
Some metals may weather and discolor
with time and exposure to moisture.
Natural stone tile is marble, granite, slate, and other more exotic stones cut very precisely into tiles of various sizes that can
be installed just like manufactured tile. Because stone is a natural material, variations in color, texture, and markings must be
expected. Manufacturers do offer stone tiles with some added finish. In addition to polished tile, suppliers offer a variety of
distressed and textured finishes that can be very attractive as well as slip-resistant. With the exception of granite, natural stone
tends to be quite porous and requires periodic sealing to prevent staining. Also, not all types are uniformly abrasion-resistant, so
check before making a purchase. Some stone is so soft that it can be very easily scratched by normal use.
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Terra-cotta tile evokes images of rustic patios in Mexico or perhaps sunny piazzas on the Mediterranean. These images are quite
appropriate because terra-cotta tile originated in these regions. The tile is traditionally made by pressing unrefined clay into molds
of various shapes and firing it (terra-cotta literally means “baked earth”). The color of the tile, from brown to red to yellow, is largely
a result of the minerals unique to the local soil. Machine-made terra-cotta tile is regular in shape and can be laid like standard tile,
but traditional terra-cotta, especially handmade Mexican saltillo tile, has irregularities and uneven shapes and thus requires more
care during installation. The variability and rustic character of the tile make up much of its appeal—and terra-cotta can be quite
slip-resistant. Unglazed terra-cotta, which is porous and absorbent, should be treated with sealant before being used in wet locations.
Mosaic tiles are ceramic, porcelain, terra-cotta, stone, or other tile cut into small pieces. Individual small tiles are often mounted
on a mesh backing so that large squares of many tiles can be installed at once. These squares may be a solid color or contain a
pattern or image. Individual mosaic tiles are also available for making custom accents and mosaics. Mosaic tile can be very low
maintenance or it can require periodic application of sealant, depending on the material. Mosaic tile is generally quite slip-resistant
because of the large number of grout lines in an installation.
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Cement body tiles are actually shaped
pieces of concrete. They can be made
in nearly endless colors and textures
because cement can be dyed, coated, and
molded quite easily. It can even be finished
to take on the appearance of marble
or other stone. Cement tile can also be
pressed with pronounced raised or relief
designs. Cement tile is an economical
choice both for its low cost and great
durability, but there are several factors
to keep in mind. Unfinished cement tile
is highly porous and stains very easily.
Some cement tile is unsuitable for outdoor
installations, as it may crack if it freezes.
Cement tile should be treated periodically
with a sealant to preserve its appearance
and prevent mildew.
Trim tiles are designed to conceal exposed edges of field tile, especially on wall and counter installations. Bullnose tile is used to
finish the edges of partial walls; cove and corner tile shields curves and corners; chair rail tile accents a wall of field tile or functions
as an accent around edges. When planning a wall project, investigate available trim as part of the planning process.
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Buying Tile & Tiling materials
B efore you can select or purchase materials, you’ll

need to figure out exactly what you need and how
much. Start by drawing a room layout, a reference for
up the remaining bathroom walls, although it’s possible
and sometimes very attractive for full walls to be tiled.
To calculate the amount of field tile required,
you and for anyone advising you about the project. measure each wall and multiply the width times the
To estimate the amount of tile you need for a height of the area to be covered. Subtract the square
floor project, calculate the square footage of the room footage of doors and windows. Do this for each wall, then
and add five percent for waste. For example, in a add all the figures together to calculate the total square
10-foot × 12-foot room, the total area is 120 square footage. Add five percent for waste. Calculate the number
feet. Add five percent, six square feet, for breakage of cartons necessary (square footage of the project divided
and other waste. You’ll need to purchase enough tile to by the square footage contained in a carton).
cover 126 square feet. Trim for floors and walls is sold by the lineal
Tile cartons generally indicate the number of foot. Measure the lineal footage and calculate based
square feet one carton will cover. Divide the square on that. plan carefully—the cost of trim tile adds up
footage to be covered by the square footage contained quickly. See page 21 for further information on trim
in a carton in order to determine the number of types and styles.
cartons required for your floor project. For example, if Before buying the tiles, ask about your dealer’s
a carton holds 10 square feet, you will need 13 cartons return policy. Most dealers allow you to return
to cover the 10 × 12 floor in our example. unused tiles for a refund. In any case, think of it this
estimating tile for a wall project is slightly more way: buying a few too many tiles is a small problem.
complex. Start by deciding how much of each wall will be running out of tiles before the job’s done could turn
tiled. In a shower, plan to tile to at least six inches above into disaster if you can no longer get the tile or the
the showerhead. It’s common for tile to extend four feet colors don’t match.
EsTImaTInG TIlE nEEds ExamPlE
Wall 1: 8 × 8 ft. 64.00 sq. ft.

– door 2.5 × 6.5 16.25 sq. ft.
= 47.75 sq. ft.
+ Wall 2: 8 × 10 ft. 80.00 sq. ft.
+ Wall 3: 8 × 8 ft. 64.00 sq. ft.

– window 2 × 4 ft. 8.00 sq. ft.
= 56.00 sq. ft.
+ Wall 4: 4 × 10 ft. 40.00 sq. ft.
Total wall coverage 223.75 sq. ft.
+ 5% waste 11.18 sq. ft.
New total tile needs 235.00 sq. ft.
÷ Amount of tile per carton

(carton sizes vary) 10 sq. ft.
= Number of cartons needed 24 cartons

A specialty tile shop or a larger home center will carry all
or most of the materials you’ll need for your tiling project. It’s
always a good idea to bring a few samples home to compare
them and see how the color and scale work in the actual room
in which they’ll be installed.
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■ Suggestions for Buying Tile
Use your room drawing to identify all the types of trim that Buy all necessary tile, tools, and materials before you
will be necessary (above). Evaluate the trim available for the begin to avoid wasted trips and to make sure all the elements
various tiles you’re considering and select a combination that are appropriate for one another and the project.
meets the specifications of your project.
You can design and paint your own custom tiles at many Mix tile from carton to carton . Slight variations in color
specialty ceramic stores. Order tile of the right size, bisque- won’t be as noticeable mixed throughout the project as they
fired but not glazed. You can then paint or stencil designs on would be if the color shifts from one area to another.
the tile and have them fired.
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Glass Tile ▸
Largely lost in the bounty of ceramic and stone choices, color of the tile will pop. To this end, some manufacturers
glass tile deserves serious consideration for the dynamic back their glass with a white base. All specify the use of
impact it can make in a kitchen or bathroom. Boasting a white crack suppression membrane under the tile and
elegant, jewel-like colors, this type of tile can create a truly bright white thinset mortar to bed the tiles. Glass tiles are
unique and stunning floor. cut on a wet saw just like many stone tiles, but the saw
The secret of glass tile’s attraction is the color. must be equipped with a diamond blade made for cutting
Pigment is added during the actual production of glass. The finished floor is grouted in the same way that a
the glass, meaning that the color is inherent in the ceramic tile floor would be.
material—it won’t fade, wear off, or otherwise change. The white subsurface and backing give glass tile
Of course, as durable as the color is, the glass surface floors an almost luminous quality, as if the floor were lit
itself can be chipped. Still, the thickness of the tiles from within. It’s a clean, sophisticated, modern look that
themselves ensures that they won’t crack under calls attention to itself. This type of floor is therefore best
normal wear. suited to simple, uncluttered, and largely monochromatic
Installing glass tiles is just slightly more challenging color schemes that won’t compete with the bright hues of
than laying a floor of stone or ceramic tile. The goal is the floor. But used in the right space, glass floor tiles offer
to create a bright white background against which the a design element that is a feast for the eyes.
All photos © Oceanside Glass Tile
Relatively plain ceramic floor tiles take on new life Hexagonal glass mosaic tiles hearken back the Art
when framed with a border of glass tiles. Here, the glass Deco era of the early- to mid-Twentieth Century, but the
tile border also makes a stunning transition from the texture, the luminescence, and the contemporary wasabi
ceramic tile floor to a carpeted area. color clearly identify this as a modern floor. The floor pairs
beautifully with the reproduction vitreous china lavatory
with its round steel legs. Accent tiles in a floral display
create a highlight near the door.
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The glass wall tile is definitely the star of this bathroom, Glass tiles come in unlimited color options. Choosing
but the effect succeeds largely because of the rustic a few and blending them together adds a lot of visual
slate tile floor. Not infrequently, mosaic glass tile is interest to the floor and creates opportunities to pull out
carried through to the floor as well. This can be effective, color from neighboring surfaces, fixtures, and decorative
but if not handled with some design skill it can quickly elements. Because glass tile is installed on a white
become dizzying. substrate, even very muted colors read instantly; this
allows you to mix and match with much less risk than if
the colors were bolder.
Custom glass tile designs make a bold statement. This sophisticated arrangement of hexagons, squares, and triangles
is created in mosaic sheets at the tile manufacturing facility. Creating your own unique design and color scheme is great
fun, but it does add considerably to the cost.
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Cutting Tile
C areful planning will help you eliminate unnecessary

cuts, but most tile jobs require cutting at least a
few tiles and some jobs require cutting a large number
other cutting tools include nippers, hand-held tile
cutters, and rod saws. Nippers can be used on most
types of tile, but a rod saw is most effective with wall
of tiles, no matter how carefully you plan. For a few tile, which is generally fairly soft.
straight cuts on light- to medium-weight tile, use a A note of caution: hand-held tile cutters and tile
snap cutter. If you’re working with heavy tile or a large nippers can create razor-sharp edges. Handle freshly
number of cuts on any kind of tile, a wet saw greatly cut tile carefully, and immediately round over the
simplifies the job. When using a wet saw, wear safety edges with a tile stone.
glasses and hearing protection. Make sure the blade is Before beginning a project, practice making
in good condition and the water container is full. Never straight and curved cuts on scrap tile.
use the saw without water, even for a few seconds.
■ How to Use a Snap Cutter

Mark a cutting line on the tile with a
1 pencil, then place the tile in the cutter so
the cutting wheel is directly over the line.
While pressing down firmly on the wheel
handle, run the wheel across the tile to
score the surface. For a clean cut, score
the tile only once.
Snap the tile along the scored line, as

2 directed by the tool manufacturer. Usually,
snapping the tile is accomplished by
depressing a lever on the tile cutter.
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■ How to Use a Wet Saw
1 2
Individual saws vary, so read the manufacturer’s directions Place the tile on the sliding table and lock the fence to
for use and make sure you understand them. Refer any hold the tile in place, then press down on the tile as you slide it
questions to the rental center. Wear safety glasses and hearing past the blade.
protection; make sure water is reaching the blade at all times.
■ How to Mark Square Notches

1 2
Place the tile to be notched over the last full tile on one Move the top two tiles and spacer to the adjoining wall,
side of the corner. Set another full tile against the 1⁄2" spacer making sure not to turn the tile that is being marked. Make a
along the wall and trace along the opposite edge onto the second mark on the tile as in step 1. Cut the tile and install.
second tile.
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■ How to Cut Square Notches
Cut along the marked line on one side of the notch. Turn To cut square notches in a small number of wall tiles, clamp
the tile and cut along the other line to complete the notch. To the tile down on a worktable, then use a jigsaw with a tungsten
keep the tile from breaking before you’re through, slow down carbide blade to make the cuts. If you need to notch quite a
as you get close to the intersection with the first cut. few tiles, a wet saw is more efficient.
To make a small number of cuts in wall tile, you can use a To make a very small notch, use tile nippers. Score the
rod saw. Fit a tungsten carbide rod saw into a hacksaw body. lines and then nibble up to the lines, biting very small pieces at
Firmly support the tile and use a sawing motion to cut the tile. a time.
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■ How to Mark & Cut Irregular Notches
1 2
Make a paper template of the contour or use a contour Use a wet saw to make a series of closely spaced, parallel
gauge. To use a contour gauge, press the gauge onto the cuts, then nip away the waste.
profile and trace it onto the tile.
■ How to Cut Tile with Tile Nippers

1 2
Tile nippers have sharp carbide tipped jaws that are To avoid breaking the tile, use the tile nippers to take very
used to firmly grip the leading edge of a tile and snap off small small bites out of the cut. Afterwards, use a rubbing stone to
fragments of unwanted material. They are primarily used to smooth the sharp edges of exposed cuts.
make irregular cuts in tile.
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■ How to Mark Tile for Cutting Holes
1 2 3
Align the tile to be cut with the last Place a 1⁄4" spacer against the wall Starting from the intersection of the
full row of tile and butt it against the and butt the tile against it. Mark the lines at the center, draw a circle slightly
pipe. Mark the center of the pipe onto pipe center on the side edge of the tile. larger than the pipe or protrusion.
the front edge of the tile. Using a combination square, draw a
line through each mark to the edges of
the tile.
Cutting mosaic Tile ▸

Score cuts on mosaic tiles with a tile
cutter in the row where the cut will occur.
Cut away excess strips of mosaics from
the sheet, using a utility knife, then use a
handheld tile cutter to snap tiles one at a
time. Note: Use tile nippers to cut narrow
portions of tiles after scoring.
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■ Options for Cutting Holes in Tile
Drill around the edges of the hole using a ceramic tile bit. Variation: Score and cut the tile so the hole is divided in half,
Gently knock out the waste material with a hammer. The rough using the straight-cut method, then use the curved-cut method
edges of the hole will be covered by a protective plate (called to remove waste material from each half of the circle.
an escutcheon).
■ How to Cut a Hole with a Hole Saw

1 2
Make a dimple with a center punch to break through the Select a tungsten carbide hole saw in the appropriate
glaze, to keep the drill bit from wandering. size and attach it to a power drill. Place the tip at the marked
center and drill the hole.
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materials
& Tools
T his chapter describes and illustrates the tools and
materials necessary for the tile projects presented
throughout the book. Most homeowners, especially those
who enjoy do-it-yourself projects, already own many of
the tools and materials necessary for tile projects. From
the saws and flat bars necessary for removing old surfaces
to the drills and utility knives handy for repairing and
installing substrates, many are basic components of a
standard toolkit. others, such as a snap cutter, are not
common, but neither are they expensive or difficult to use.
There are a few less common and more expensive
tools that, while not strictly necessary, will simplify
large projects to such a degree that you may want to
add them to your arsenal. A wet saw, for example,
cuts even heavy tile easily and simplifies tricky cuts.
For small projects you may want to rent a tile saw; for
large projects you may want to purchase the saw.
Materials for tile projects range from cementboard
to cork, from thinset mastic to grout. These materials
are widely available and reasonably priced. The
important issue is matching the product to the project.
This chapter will help you do exactly that.
In this chapter:
• Safety • Tools for
• Materials: Levelers Repairing Substrates
and Resurfacers • Tools for
• Materials: Tile Backer Installing Substrates
• Materials: • Tools for Layout
Tile Membranes • Tools for Cutting Tile
• Materials: Thinset Mortar • Tools for Setting
• Materials: Grout & Grouting Tile
• Tools for Removing
Old Surfaces
■ 33
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safety
W orking safely includes such obvious but

important factors as wearing the right protective
gear and staying alert. But it also means taking the
but remember to turn it back on later to check for
leaks before the work is covered back up.
More importantly, invest in high quality safety
time to think about what you’re doing. Most people gear. remodeling is a very dusty job, so protect your
have watched a home improvement show on the topic lungs by wearing a NIoSH approved respirator
of renovation and the first tool to be put into use is a rated type N-95 or higher when working around fine
sledge hammer, swung haphazardly into the nearest particles such as airborne dust from cut tiles. Keep
available wall. A competent renovator would not begin the work area well ventilated. A pair of heavy-duty
a demolition in this fashion. What if there had been a work gloves is essential for protecting your hands
gas line, electrical junction box, or water pipe behind while carrying heavy materials and jagged work debris.
that wall? The consequences of such impetuous Take extra care when handling broken shards of tile.
actions could be quite costly, if not deadly. Latex gloves will protect your hands from the high-
Before attempting to open up any wall or floor for alkalinity and abrasiveness of wet cementitious mortar.
repairs, visually inspect all sides of the structure you Safety glasses will protect your eyes from the dust
will be working on. Check for evidence of plumbing, and shards of tile. You will be spending a fair amount
electrical wiring, phone lines, gas lines, or anything of time crawling around on your knees, often over
else that may look out of place. Make a note of any a fair amount of sharp rubble, so pick out a pair of
locations you find and exercise care when working comfortable knee pads and wear them.
around them. As a rule, take your time and keep your work area
If the project requires you to work around exposed clean and uncluttered. Whenever possible, divide each
electrical wiring, turn the power off at the main task into portions you can easily manage within a short
breaker box and verify it is off by using a circuit tester time frame. Your confidence to take on bigger projects
or voltage meter to individually test each outlet. Turn will grow as you gain experience, as will the quality of
the water off before working around plumbing pipes your work.
Basic safety equipment for use when

working with tile includes: Ear protection
B to be worn when operating power tools
a
(A); knee pads for comfort (B); safety
goggles (C) or glasses (D); a NIOSH N-95
rated particle mask (E) or respirator to be
worn when cutting tiles with a tile saw;
G work gloves for handling materials and
working with sharp objects (F); rubber
gloves (G) or latex gloves (H) to be worn
C when handling cementitious products
such as thinset mortar.
H
F
E
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First aid Kits ▸
Assemble a first aid kit. Cuts from a hand or power
tool can be serious and require prompt and thoughtful
attention. Be prepared for such situations with a
well-equipped first aid kit that is easy to find. Record
any emergency telephone numbers on the first aid
kit or by the nearest phone so they are available in
an emergency.
Equip your kit with a variety of items, including
bandages, needles, tweezers, antiseptic ointment, cotton
swabs, cotton balls, eye drops, a first aid handbook, a
chemical-filled cold pack, elastic bandages, first aid tape,
and sterile gauze.
For puncture wounds, cuts, burns, and other serious
injuries, always seek medical attention as soon as
first aid—such as washing and wrapping of cuts—has
been provided.
Always keep a well-equipped first aid kit close at

hand when doing any home improvement work.
■ Working Safely
GFCI receptacle
adapter
GFCI extension cord
Keep your tools sharp and clean . Use a GFCI receptacle, adapter, or Check outlets with a circuit tester
Accidents are more likely to occur when extension cord to reduce the risk of to make sure the power is off before
blades are dull and tools are filled with shock while operating a power tool removing cover plates, exposing wires,
sawdust and dirt. outdoors or in wet conditions. or drilling or cutting into walls that
contain wiring.
Materials & Tools ■ 35
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materials: levelers & Resurfacers
S elf-leveling underlayment, otherwise referred to

as self-leveling cement, is applied over uneven
surfaces, such as cementitious backers and concrete
usually within a few hours of application. In some
cases, multiple applications are required to build up to
the desired thickness.
slabs, to make them level prior to tile application. A coat of paint-like primer should be applied prior
A similar product called concrete resurfacer to the leveler in almost all cases. This is usually rolled
accomplishes essentially the same thing. Levelers and onto the substrate using a short-nap roller. The primer
resurfacer have fairly liquid viscosities. They are poured seals the substrate, which helps keep it from absorbing
onto uneven surfaces, where gravity directs them to the moisture in the cement mixture too rapidly. It also
fill in the low areas of a subfloor. one 50-pound bag improves the adhesive bond between the self-leveling
of floor leveler will typically cover a surface area of cement and the surface it is applied to.
approximately 50 square feet, at 1⁄8-inch thick. Leveler The leveler compound is best mixed using a
can be applied in layers as thin as a feather edge and as ½-inch corded drill fitted with a mixing paddle. A
thick as one inch, depending on the specific product garden rake and a trowel will also be necessary to
you buy. Self-leveling underlayment cures very quickly, spread the batch over the area in need of repair.
Cement-based tile products such as this floor leveler must Floor levelers and resurfacers are applied prior to installing
be mixed well with water. A ½" power drill with a mixing paddle tile backer to address dips, valleys, and other uneven areas in
attachment is a great help in this regard. a concrete floor. An acrylic or latex fortifier helps the product
flow more smoothly and gives it some extra flex, without
sacrificing hardness.
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■ How to Apply Leveler
1 2
Patch any major cracks or large popouts with concrete Apply an even layer of concrete primer to the entire
patching compound before you apply the leveler. Once surface using a long-nap paint roller. Let the primer
the patch dries, wash and rinse the floor according to the dry completely.
instructions on the leveler package. This may include the use
of grease cutters and pressure washers.
3 4
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, mix the floor Distribute the leveler evenly, using a rake or spreader.
leveler with water. The batch should be large enough to cover Work quickly: the leveler begins to harden in 15 min. Use a
the entire floor area to the desired thickness (up to 1"). Pour trowel to feather the edges and create a smooth transition
the leveler over the floor. with an uncovered area. Let the leveler dry for 24 hrs.
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materials: Tile Backer
T ile backer is any approved sheet panel that is

installed on subfloor, countertop, or wall surface
to serve as underlayment for the installation of tiles.
For horizontal applications (floors, countertops, and
tub decks), either ¼- or ½-inch-thick cementboard
may be used. For floors, the joists should be spaced
Most commonly today, that means cementboard. 16 inches on center and there should be a subbase of
Cementboard was invented in the early 1960s by ¾-inch thick sheathing. unless otherwise allowed by
paul Dinkel, a tile contractor determined to develop the manufacturer, use ½-inch-thick cementboard for
a tile substrate to replace drywall, which is prone to all other applications.
deterioration in wet areas. His solution was a thin, on horizontal surfaces, the backer board panel may
precast, strong concrete-base panel that has come to be laminated to the subbase using a dry-set or modified
be known as cementboard. thinset mortar bed and then fastened with screws or
The projects in this book employ cement and nails. This setting bed is required by some local codes,
fiber/cement backer boards. They are commonly sold but may not be required in your area. It is a good idea
in three-by-five-foot panels in thickness of ½-inch regardless, as it eliminates voids under the panels
or ¼-inch. For walls, ½-inch-thick backer board is and provides a dimensionally stable surface for the
installed over wall studs spaced 16 inches on center. application of tile. This greatly reduces tile cracking.
Tile backer board is designed to retain its rigidity when damp—whether the dampness is from the thinset mortar during the
application or the conditions of the room. Cement or fiber/cement base backer (cementboard) is made in ¼ and ½" thicknesses.
Other fiberglass-base tile backers are lighter than cementboard and some installers find them easier to work with.
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Tile
Thinset mortar
1
⁄4 to 1⁄2" cementboard
Thinset mortar
3
⁄4" plywood or particleboard
Floor joists 16" on-center
A typical tile floor has floor joists spaced 16" on center, topped with a subbase of ¾" plywood or particleboard sheathing. A layer
of cementboard (you may use ¼ or ½") is set into a bed of thinset mortar (in most cases) and fastened down with cementboard
screws. The tile flooring is laid into another bed of thinset on top of the cementboard.
proper fastener selection is critical for the long- Alkaline resistant, two-inch-wide fiberglass mesh
term success of any backer board installation. use tape is used in conjunction with a modified thinset
1¼-inch, corrosion-resistant backer board screws with mortar to reinforce the adjoining edges between
a minimum of a 3⁄8-inch diameter head. A full-sized backer board panels. Fiberglass tapes that are not
backer board panel installed over a floor or countertop alkaline resistant will degrade over time, become
will require up to 60 screws. Wall applications brittle, and lose their reinforcing strength.
will require up to 30 screws per panel, and ceiling
applications will require up to 42 screws per panel.
Cementboard screws are specially designed to penetrate Cementboard mesh tape is used to cover and reinforce the
the cementitious material without cracking it. seams between cementboard panels. Don’t use regular mesh
tapes for this job: they are not alkali-resistant and will degrade.
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■ Cutting Cementboard
even though cementboard is a rigid material that prone to breakage due to heat and the high torque
breaks or crushes fairly easily, with the right tools, generated by the saw, so set it to a low working
it can be cut to fit with little difficulty. The most speed and periodically lubricate the bits with
low-tech way to make straight cuts in cementboard all-purpose oil.
is to use a carbide scoring knife for cutting shallow An angle grinder fitted with a four-inch dry-
guidelines in the panel, which can then be snapped cutting diamond blade is an all purpose tile saw
and broken accurately. With practice and patience, useful for making a wide range of linear cuts in tile
L-cuts and cutouts are also possible using this tool. and backer board, including square cutouts for water
This method generates no dust. valves and electrical boxes.
Carbide and diamond-tipped hole saws are Although the blade is too large to make small
useful for boring smaller diameter holes in tile and cutouts, circular saws fitted with a carbide tipped
cementboard in order to accommodate items such as fiber cement blade are useful for making linear cuts in
water pipe and valve protrusions. Spraying the bit with backer board panels.
water while you are drilling will help to reduce dust
and lubricate the cutting edge of the bit.
A jigsaw fitted with a carbide tungsten grit blade
is a versatile power tool capable of making curved and safety Tip ▸
straight cuts in cementboard. purchase some extra
blades though, as they tend to wear out quickly. Dry-cutting tile or cementboard with any power tool
A rotary tool fitted with a tile-cutting bit is useful will produce harmful silica dust. Wear a respirator
for making round cutouts for toilet flanges. These and safety glasses while cutting and make tile and
saws are often supplied with a circular cutting guide cementboard cuts outdoors in a well-ventilated area
for making custom-sized radial cuts. With a little whenever possible. A fan is recommended to provide
practice, a rotary tool (also called a spiral-cutting additional ventilation and to help blow dust away
tool) can be used to make L-cuts and rectangular from the workspace.
cutouts for electrical boxes. The tile cutting bits are
To score and snap cementboard

using a scoring tool, measure and mark
the rough side of the cement board to
the desired size. Using a straightedge as
a guide, score the board with a carbide
scoring tool, then snap the panel evenly
along the scored line. Score the panel
deep enough to penetrate the glass-fiber
mesh layer just below the surface of the
cement board.
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■ Tools for Cutting Cementboard
Angle grinder . Snap reference lines Hole saw . To make round and curved Rotary tool/spiral cutting saw .
using chalkline and cut along the line cutouts in cementboard, try using a To make round cuts in cementboard
with an electric angle grinder equipped power drill fitted with a carbide or using a rotary saw fitted with a tile
with a diamond blade. Use this tool only diamond-tipped hole saw. Mark the cutting bit, adjust the circle cutter guide
in a well-ventilated area and be sure to centerpoint of the cut on the panel and to the desired hole size and drill a pilot
wear full safety protection. bore the hole at low speed. To improve hole in the center point and perimeter
performance, use a spray bottle filled of the desired cut. Insert the pivot foot
with water to periodically moisten the of the guide and the bit into the pilot
cutting edge of the bit. holes and complete the cut.
Scoring tool . To make L-cuts in Jigsaw for straight cuts . To make Jigsaw for rounds cuts . To make
cementboard with a carbide scoring L-cuts in cementboard with a jigsaw, round cuts in cementboard using a
tool, mark the outline of the cut on both mark the outline of the desired cut on jigsaw fitted with a carbide grit blade,
sides of the panel. Using a straightedge the panel with a pencil. Fit the jigsaw mark the center point of the cut on
as a guide, score both sides of the with an abrasive blade and cut out and the panel and drill a starter hole. Insert
panel and punch the waste material out remove the waste material. the jigsaw blade into the pilot hole and
from the back side of the panel using complete the cut.
a hammer.
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materials: Tile membranes
T ile membranes are thin, flexible tile underlayment

materials designed to isolate tile installations from
problematic substrates, provide for sound abatement, a
or waterproof and vapor-proof tile installations in wet
areas and steam rooms. There are dozens of different
types of tile membranes on the market. please refer to
the manufacturer for specific information pertaining
to the limitations, benefits, and installation of the
membrane selected.
Waterproofing membranes are installed in
wet areas and are designed to prevent the migration
of water beyond the membrane. They often provide B
additional benefits, including crack suppression.
Tile installed in steam rooms, wet saunas, and steam
showers requires the installation of a membrane that
is both vapor-proof and waterproof.
Sound isolation membranes are designed to
reduce the transmission of impact sounds from hard
surface flooring to lower level living spaces. This
type of membrane is usually installed in apartment
dwellings and condominiums (and behind drywall in
home theaters). C
Crack isolation and anti-fracture membranes,

also called crack suppression membranes, isolate tile
installations from tile substrates that are susceptible
to stresses that produce horizontal movement. They
can absorb movement of as much as 1⁄8-inch to 3⁄8-inch.
Some membranes are liquid applied to the substrate
with a trowel or roller, others are sheet applied. There
are even anti-fracture thinset mortars, eliminating
the need in some cases, for a separate sheet or liquid
d
applied membrane.
Uncoupling membranes isolate the finished
tile installation from the substrate while allowing
both to move independently. This type of membrane
is typically installed over problematic sub-floors and
newly installed or problematic concrete slabs.
E
Note: Crack suppression and uncoupling
membranes are not intended to be a substitution for
sound building practices. Tile installations that exceed
structural recommendations may see little benefit with
the installation of these types of products. Likewise, Membranes used for laying tile include: Roll-on
marginal installations will benefit more from structural waterproofing and crack prevention membrane (A);
multi-purpose membrane for uncoupling, waterproofing
reinforcement or repairs. Whenever possible, reinforce
and vapor management (B); 40-mil thick PVC shower pan
weak wall framing and floor joists with wood blocking liner (C); 40-mil thick (1⁄16") self-bonding membrane designed
and install an additional layer of plywood over wood for use under floor tile requiring protection from structural
sub‑floors if needed. movement (D); crack prevention mat (E).
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Tile Transitions strips ▸
Available in numerous materials and profiles, transition
strips are installed to create a smooth bridge from one
floor covering to another. They are typically installed in
doorways or in any open area where a newly installed
tile floor will abut another floor covering. The type of
profile required will depend largely on the floor surfaces
being transitioned. Height reducing thresholds, or reducer
strips, have a profile with a beveled edge and are used
to transition between two floors of differing height.
Usually found in doorways, transition strips are
Gradual transition strips have a sloped profile, making
installed after the tile layout is completed to create a
them wheelchair friendly. T-molding is used to transition bridge between floor coverings. Individual strips are
between two floors of even height. Transition strips can engineered for specific transitions: for example, ceramic
often be omitted on transitions between carpet and tile. tile to hardwood or tile to carpeting.
Carpet is usually tucked right up to the edge of a Carpet can also be tucked into a threshold, as
tile installation. shown here.
T-molding is used to transition between two floors of Transition strips with an edge profile do not have a
even height. height adjusting profile. They are used to protect the
edges of exposed tile.
Height reducing thresholds are used to transition To make a room accessible to wheelchair users, use
between two floors of differing heights. a gradual transition strip with a sloped profile.
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materials: Thinset mortar
I ntroduced in the early 1950s, thinset is an adhesive

mortar consisting of portland cement, a water
retentive agent, sand or aggregate (optional), and other
select is an appropriate adhesive for the tile and the
substrate to which it will be applied.
The adhesive mortars used for the projects in
additives. prior to thinset, tiles were installed with a this book include dry-set thinset mortar, polymer-
thick paste consisting of portland cement and water. modified thinset mortar, and latex-modified thinset
unless they were soaked in water prior to installation, mortar. Modified thinset, the most common
absorbent tiles would quickly soak up the moisture adhesive used, is widely employed to adhere a
in the paste and fail to bond to the substrate. Thinset variety of different types of tile to cementboard
mortar made it possible for installers to install tile over and concrete substrates. use gray thinset for
a variety of cementitious substrates without needing to darker grout selections and white thinset for lighter
soak the tile beforehand. grout selections.
Thinset mortars have improved substantially in Dry-set mortars are mixed with potable water
quality and ease of use over the years. Because no two and used as a setting bed to seat backer board panels.
products are exactly alike, you should always read the In special circumstances, it can also be used as an
package label carefully to make sure the product you adhesive to set tile.
Thinset mortar is applied in a thick layer to make a bed for setting tile. It is sold in premixed tubs and in dry powder forms—most
professionals prefer to mix their own. If the product you buy has not been modified with polymer additive, you can mix in latex
additive yourself. Different thinset mortars have different ratios of additives and fortifiers for specific purposes. You will also find
some color variation. Most is cement gray, but white thinset intended for use with glass tile is also available. You can also use white
thinset to reduce the chance of color bleedthrough if you are applying a light-colored grout.
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polymer-modified thinset mortar contains dry- trowel. Larger batches of mortar can be mixed at
polymer additives. It also should be mixed with potable speeds of less than 300 rpm, using a ½-inch drill fitted
water. Latex-modified thinset is prepared by mixing dry- with a mixing paddle.
set thinset mortar with a liquid latex additive. Although Cementboard setting beds are applied using a
more costly and difficult to work with than conventional ¼-inch square notch trowel. use a ¼-inch V-notch
modified blends, liquid latex modified mortars usually trowel to install mosaic tiles two inches square or
offer higher bond strengths, higher flexural values, and less. Most varieties of larger tile can be installed
increased water and chemical resistance. using a ¼-inch or 3⁄8-inch square or u-notch trowel.
Small quantities of mortar can be mixed by hand Very large tiles and certain types of stone may
to a smooth and creamy consistency using a margin require larger trowel sizes.
16 × 16" floor
12 × 12" floor
8 × 8" floor
4 × 4" floor
3
⁄ 16" V-trowel ¼ × ¼" square notch ¼ × 3⁄ 8" square notch ½ × ½" square notch
The type of trowel used to apply thinset is dictated mostly by the size of the tile being installed.
Premixed Thinset mortar ▸

Most professionals prefer to mix their own thinset
mortar because it is considerably cheaper than premixed
material. But homeowners who are only tiling a small
area should consider purchasing tubs of premixed thinset
mortar. Not only is it a convenience, you are assured that
the material contains an adequate ratio of latex additive
and is blended to the proper consistency.
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materials: Grout Grouting Tips ▸
• The spacing of the tiles will determine the type of
G
grout to be applied. Unsanded grout is used with
rout (or “grout mortar”) is available in dozens of
grout joints 1⁄8" wide or narrower. Sanded grout is
stock colors and can be tinted to an unlimited
used for grout joints that will be wider than 1⁄8".
variety of tones. Beyond color, grout has several
• Remember to treat any gaps between the
other features that differ, making some types more
tile and walls, tubs, cabinets, and other hard
appropriate for various applications than others.
surfaces as expansion joints. Do not apply grout
The projects in this book use polymer-modified
in these areas. Instead, cover them with molding
grout or dry-set grout mixed with a liquid latex
or fill them with a flexible, mildew-resistant
additive. polymer-modified grout contains an
silicone, urethane, or latex caulk.
additive in dry form that is activated when mixed
with water. Latex-modified grout is prepared by
mixing a dry-set grout with a liquid latex additive.
These additives aid in increasing the water and A few days after installation, a water-based
chemical resistance, bonding, and compressive silicone grout sealer may be applied to finished grout
strength of the grout. joints. Keep in mind, these types of sealers will not
To apply grout to floor or wall tile installations, a waterproof the grout. They are designed to be vapor
rubber grout float is needed, along with a minimum transmissive and allow moisture to evaporate from
of one or two large grout sponges for every 150 square the surface of the grout joint. Grout sealers do help to
feet of tile installed. A margin trowel is also useful for prevent some mild blemishing and, at the very least,
spreading grout under kitchen or bathroom cabinet toe they allow for a little leeway for cleaning up spills
kicks and other hard-to-reach areas. before they have time to permanently stain the grout.
C
a
F
G
Materials and tools for grouting tile joints include: Dry mix, sanded grout (A); silicone grout sealer (B); tub-and-tile caulk (C); latex
grout fortifier (D); margin trowel (E); grout sponge (F); grout float (G).
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■ How to Mix Thinset & Grout
on the back of each bag of thinset mortar or grout you Keep the paddle turning at a low rate. repeat
will find instructions detailing the amount of water or the process, mixing the entire batch thoroughly
liquid additive required, slake time, mixing speeds, and and uniformly for several minutes to a smooth,
other important guidelines. These recommendations paste-like consistency.
should always be followed carefully. Any variation in If recommended by the manufacturer, allow the
the mixing guidelines can create problems, ranging batch to slake. This is simply a waiting period that
from uneven or washed out grout colors, to weakened allows the dry mortar to more thoroughly absorb the
mortars that lack compressive strength or fail to liquid that was added to it. After the batch has slaked
adequately bond to tile and substrates. for the appropriate amount of time, mix the mortar
To mix a full bag of mortar, add one half of once more and it will be ready for use.
the amount of potable water or liquid additive Stiffened batches of thinset and grout mortars
recommended by the manufacturer to a five gallon that have become too difficult to work with may
bucket. Slowly add a half bag of mortar while mixing be mixed again to loosen them up. However, this
the water and dry mix together with a ½-inch (chuck should be done without adding additional water or
capacity) electric drill fitted with a mixing paddle. liquid additives.
■ Options for Mixing Thinset Mortar & Grout
To make a small batch of mortar, add the proper ratio of A heavy duty 1⁄2" drill fitted with a mixing paddle is useful for
water or liquid additive and dry powder to a container and stir mixing large quantities of mortar at one time.
by hand.
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Tools for Removing Old surfaces
Q uality tools remove old surfaces faster and leave

surfaces ready to accept new tile. Home centers
and hardware stores carry a variety of products for
surface removal. Look for tools with smooth, secure End-cutting nippers
handles and correctly weighted heads for safety
and comfort.
End-cutting nippers allow you to pull out
staples remaining in the floor after carpeting is
removed. This plier-like tool can also be used to
break an edge on old tile so a chisel or pry bar can be Heat gun
inserted.
Heat guns are used to soften adhesives so vinyl
base cove moldings and stubborn tiles can be pryed
away from the wall. They are also used to remove
old paint, especially when it is heavily layered or
badly chipped.
Hand mauls are often used in combination with
pry bars and chisels to remove old flooring and prepare
surfaces for tile. They are helpful for leveling high
spots on concrete floors and separating underlayments
Hand maul
and subfloors.
Flat pry bars are used to remove wood base
moldings from walls and to separate underlayments
and floor coverings from subfloors. This tool is also
effective for removing tiles set in mortar.
Chisels come in a variety of sizes for specific Flat pry bar
jobs. Masonry chisels are used with hand mauls
Chisel
to remove high spots in concrete. Cold chisels
are used with hand mauls or hammers to pry tiles
from mortar.
Floor scrapers are used to scrape and
smooth patched areas on concrete floors, and to
pry up flooring, and scrape adhesives and backings
from underlayments.
Floor scraper
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Tools for Repairing substrates
S urfaces and substrates must be in good condition

before new tile can be installed. use the
tools below to create stiff, flat surfaces that help
prevent tiles from cracking and enhance the overall straightedge
appearance of your finished project.
Straightedges are used to mark damaged areas of
substrate for removal. They are also used to measure
and mark replacement pieces for cutting.
Jigsaws are handy when cutting notches, holes,
and irregular shapes in new or existing substrates.
They are also used to fit new substrate pieces to
existing doorways.
Portable drills secure substrates to subfloors
with screws selected for the thickness and type of
substrate used.
Circular saws are used to remove damaged
sections of subfloor and cut replacement pieces to fit.
Jigsaw
Portable drill
Circular saw
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Tools for Installing substrates
D epending upon your application, you may have

to cut and install a substrate of cementboard,
plywood, cork, backerboard, greenboard, or moisture
membrane. Whichever your tiling project demands,
the tools shown here will help you measure, score,
cut, and install substrate material with precision. T-square
Drywall squares are used to measure and mark
substrates, such as cementboard, fiber-cementboard,
and isolation membrane. They can also be used as
straightedge guides for scoring and cutting substrates
with a utility knife.
Utility knives are usually adequate for scoring
straight lines in wallboard, cementboard, fiber-
cementboard, and for cutting isolation membrane
substrates. However, because cementboard and fiber-
cementboard are thick, hard substrates, utility knife
blades must be replaced often for best performance.
Cementboard knives are the best choice for
scoring cementboard and fiber-cementboard. The
blades on these knives are stronger and wear better
than utility knife blades when cutting rough surfaces.
Trowels are useful for applying leveler on existing
floors and for applying thinset mortar to substrates.
Trowels can also be used to scrape away ridges and
high spots after levelers or mortars dry.
Utility knife
Cementboard knife
notched trowel
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Tools for layout
L aying tile requires careful planning. Since tile is

installed following a grid-pattern layout, marking
perpendicular reference lines is essential to proper
placement. use the tools shown here to measure and
mark reference lines for any type of tiling project.
Straightedges are handy for marking reference
lines on small areas. They can also be used to mark Chalk line
cutting lines for partial tiles.
Levels are used to check walls for plumb and
horizontal surfaces for level before tile is laid. Levels
are also used to mark layouts for wall tile installations.
Carpenter’s squares are used to establish
perpendicular lines for floor tile installations.
Chalk lines are snapped to mark the reference Tape measure
lines for layouts.
Tape measures are essential for measuring
rooms and creating layouts. They’re also used to make
sure that reference lines are perpendicular by using
the 3-4-5 triangle method.
Carpenter’s square
level
straightedge
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Tools for Cutting Tile
E ven though tile is a rigid material, it can be cut to

fit a variety of applications. With the proper tools,
tile can be trimmed, notched, and drilled. If you’re
planning only one tile project, consider renting the
more expensive pieces of equipment. Coping saw
Coping saws with rod saw blades are usually with rod saw blade
adequate for cutting soft tile, such as wall tile.
Tile nippers are used to create curves and Tile nippers
circles. Tile is first marked with the scoring wheel of
a hand-held tile cutter or a wet saw blade to create a
cutting guide.
Hand-held tile cutters are used to snap tiles
one at a time. They are often used for cutting mosaic
tiles after they have been scored.
Tile stones file away rough edges left by tile
nippers and hand-held tile cutters. Stones can also be
used to shave off small amounts of tile for fitting.
Hand-held tile cutter
Wet saws, also called “tile saws,” employ water
to cool both the blade and the tile during cutting. This
tool is used primarily for cutting floor tile—especially
Tile stone
natural stone tile—but it is also useful for quickly
cutting large quantities of tile or notches in hard tile.
Diamond blades are used on hand-held wet
saws and grinders to cut through the hardest tile
materials such as pavers, marble, granite, slate, and
Wet saw
other natural stone.
Tile cutters are quick, efficient tools for scoring
and cutting straight lines in most types of light- to
medium-weight tile.
Grinders come in handy for cutting granite and
marble when equipped with a diamond blade. Cuts
made with this hand tool will be less accurate than
with a wet saw, so it is best used to cut tile for areas
that will be covered with molding or fixtures.
diamond blade
Tile cutter
Grinder
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Tools for setting & Grouting Tile
L aying tile requires quick, precise work, so it’s wise

to assemble the necessary supplies before you
begin. You don’t want to search for a tool with wet Buff rag Grout sealer
applicator
mortar already in place. Most of the tools required for
setting and grouting tile are probably already in your
tool box, so take an inventory before you head to the
home center or hardware store.
Tile spacers are essential for achieving consistent
spacing between tiles. They are set at corners of laid
Grout sponge
tile and are later removed so grout can be applied.
Grout sponges, buff rags, foam brushes,
Foam brush
and grout sealer applicators are used after grout
is applied. Grout sponges are used to wipe away grout
residue, buff rags remove grout haze, and foam brushes
and grout sealer applicators are for applying grout sealer. Rubber mallet
Rubber mallets are used to gently tap tiles and
set them evenly into mortar.
Needlenose pliers come in handy for removing
spacers placed between tiles.
Caulk guns are used to fill expansion joints at
needlenose pliers
the floor and base trim, at inside corners, and where
tile meets surfaces made of other materials.
Grout floats are used to apply grout over tile and Tile spacers
into joints. They are also used to remove excess grout
from the surface of tiles after grout has been applied.
For mosaic sheets, grout floats are handy for gently
pressing tile into mortar.
Trowels are used to apply mortar to surfaces
where tile will be laid and to apply mortar directly to
the backs of cut tiles.
Caulk gun
Trowel
Grout float
notched trowel
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Floor Projects
T he project portion of the book begins with a basic
floor project, which is probably the most common
tile project undertaken by homeowners. This chapter
walks you through a basic installation, and then
branches out to illustrate how to set a running bond
tile pattern, a diagonal pattern within a border, and
how to set hexagonal tile.
With these basic tile-setting techniques in hand,
you’ll be ready to set mosaic floor tile and even to
create an original mosaic design. Finally, we present
the installation of a custom-tiled shower base, an
advanced but completely realistic project for a
do-it-yourselfer.
A floor typically is one of the largest surfaces in a
room and so plays a major role in establishing the style
of the space. Neutral or dramatic, plain or elaborate,
these projects present the techniques necessary for
just about any design you can find or dream up.
In this chapter:
• Gallery of Flooring • Radiant Floor
Tile Projects • Ceramic Floor Tile
• Evaluating • Stone & Mosaic Tile Floor
& Preparing Floors • Glass Mosaic Tile Floor
• Removing • DIY Mosaic Design
Floor Coverings • Combination Tile Floor
• Removing Underlayment • Porcelain Snap-lock Tile
• Underlayment • Shower Base
■ 55
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Gallery of Flooring Tile Projects
Contrasting inlays can be fashioned
from contrasting tiles or from another
material altogether. You can inlay within
the repeat pattern of the main tile, or you
may choose to custom cut field tiles to
create space for the inlay.
Polished tiles with mirror finishes

clean up beautifully and can make a utility
room or laundry room look as spotless as
an operating room. These marble tiles are
installed with very narrow grout lines.
56 ■ The CompleTe Guide To CerAmiC Tile
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A perfectly square grid of ceramic tiles takes on the illusion of movement when it is cut with a meandering pebblestone
pathway on one side and cabinet bases with curved contours on the other side.
A mélange of contrasting stone tiles creates a visually Rugged porcelain tile is a perfect flooring choice for a three-
interesting floor that pulls carefully chosen colors from the season porch. It is fairly resistant to temperature change as
other elements in this kitchen. long as it is protected from direct moisture, and it is very easy
to clean when it is trampled by muddy feet.
Floor Projects ■ 57
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Terra cotta tile makes a dramatic visual statement indoors A professionally installed granite tile floor positively
or outdoors. Here, the wide gray grout lines establish a strong gleams with reflected light. A floor like this can be a stunning
geometric pattern that anchors a minimally appointed room. design element in any room, but be forewarned that you’ll see
every speck of dust if you don’t sweep or mop it perpetually.
Sometimes a simple layout succeeds

where a fancier pattern might fail. Solid
color tiles in a straightforward grid with
a neutral grout color combine to form a
sturdy, practical floor covering that doesn’t
compete with other colors and patterns in
the room.
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Dark, low-luster tiles with a textured surface have a visual effect similar to leather when they are laid over a large area. A
contemporary room with few furnishings is the perfect showcase for this type of tile treatment.
Informal settings are perfect for tile that has random gradations in the pattern. Ceramic tiles or porcelain tiles are well-suited for
casual rooms that have a light, open ambience.
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Evaluating & Preparing Floors
T he most important step in the success of your tile

flooring project is evaluating and preparing the
area. A well-done tile installation can last a lifetime,
non-plumbed kitchen islands for your floor tile project.
Not only will this eliminate a great deal of cutting
and fitting, it will allow you more flexibility in future
whereas poor preparation can lead to a lifetime of remodeling choices.
cracked grout and broken tile headaches. Start by removing any fixtures or appliances in
Because of the weight of ceramic and stone tile, the work area, then baseboards, then the old flooring.
it is important to assess the condition of the joists, Shovel old flooring debris through a window and
subfloor, and underlayment. most tile installation cannot into a wheelbarrow to speed up removal work. Cover
be done over existing flooring without the addition of doorways with sheet plastic to contain debris and
underlayment. Check with your tile dealer for the specific dust during the removal process. Keep the dust and
requirements of the tile or stone you have chosen. dirt from blowing through your home’s ductwork by
Though it may initially seem like more work, it is covering air and heat vents with sheet plastic and
important to remove bathroom fixtures, vanities, and masking tape.
Anatomy of Your Floor ▸

A typical wood-frame floor consists of several layers of ¾" tongue-and-groove plywood, but in older homes,
that work together to provide the required structural the subfloor often consists of 1"-thick wood planks
support and desired appearance. At the bottom of the nailed diagonally across the floor joists. On top of the
floor are joists, the 2 × 10 or larger framing members that subfloor, most builders place a ½" plywood underlayment.
support the weight of the floor. Joists are typically spaced For many types of floor coverings, adhesive or mortar
16" apart on center. The subfloor is nailed to the joists. is spread on the underlayment prior to installing the
Most subfloors installed in the 1970s or later are made floor cover.
Floor covering
Adhesive
Underlayment
Subfloor
Joist
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■ How to Evaluate & Prepare Floors
Determining the number and type of coverings already on your floor is an Measure vertical spaces in kitchens
important first step in evaluating its condition. Ceramic and stone tile floors have and bathrooms to ensure the proper
specific requirements that must be met to prevent surface cracks. fit of appliances and fixtures after the
installation of tile. Use a sample of the
tile and any additional underlayment as
spacers while measuring.
To remove baseboards, place a To prepare door jambs, measure the To test the height of the door jamb,
scrap board against the wall to avoid height of your underlayment and tile slide a piece of flooring under the door
damaging the drywall. Remove the and mark the casing. Using a jamb saw, jamb to make sure it fits easily.
baseboard using a pry bar placed cut the casing at the mark.
against the scrap board. Pry the
baseboard at all nail locations. Number
the baseboards as they are removed.
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■ How to Remove a Toilet
1 2
Empty the tank and disconnect. Turn off the water at Remove the nuts from the tank bolts using a ratchet wrench.
the shutoff valve and flush the toilet to empty the tank. Use Carefully remove the tank and set it aside.
a sponge to soak up remaining water in the tank and bowl.
Disconnect the supply tube using an adjustable wrench.
3 4
Pry off the floor bolt trim caps, then remove the nuts from Scrape the old wax from the toilet flange, and plug the drain
the floor bolts. Rock the bowl from side to side to break the opening with a damp rag so sewer gas doesn’t escape into the
seal, then lift the toilet from the bolts and set it aside. Wear house. If you’re going to reinstall the old toilet, clean the old
rubber gloves while cleaning up any water that spills from the wax and plumber’s putty from around the horn and base of
toilet trap. the toilet.
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■ How to Remove Sinks
Self-rimming sink: Disconnect the plumbing, then slice Pedestal sink: Disconnect the plumbing. If the sink and
through any caulk or sealant between the sink rim and the pedestal are bolted together, disconnect them. Remove the
countertop using a utility knife. Lift the sink off the countertop. pedestal first, supporting the sink from below with 2 × 4s.
Slice through any caulk or sealant. Lift the sink off the
wall brackets (inset).
■ How to Remove Vanities

1 2 3
Detach any mounting hardware, Slice through any caulk or sealant Remove the screws or nails (usually
located underneath the countertop between the wall and the countertop. driven through the back rail of the
inside the vanity. Remove the countertop from the vanity, cabinet) that anchor the vanity to the
using a pry bar if necessary. wall and remove cabinet.
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Removing Floor Coverings
T horough and careful removal work is essential to

the quality of a new floor tile or stone installation.
The difficulty of flooring removal depends on the
With any removal project, be sure to keep your tool
blades sharp and avoid damaging the underlayment if you
plan to reuse it. if you’ll be replacing the underlayment, it
type of floor covering and the method that was used may be easier to remove the old underlayment along with
to install it. Carpet and perimeter-bond vinyl are the floor covering (see pages 68 to 69).
generally quite easy to remove, and vinyl tiles are resilient flooring installed before 1986 might contain
relatively simple. Full-spread sheet vinyl can be asbestos, so consult an asbestos containment expert or
difficult to remove, however, and removing ceramic have a sample tested before beginning removal. even if
tile is a lot of work. asbestos is not present, wear a high quality dust mask.
Tools & Materials ▸

Gloves Wet/dry vacuum masonry chisel end-cutting nippers
Floor scraper heat gun Flat pry bar liquid dishwashing detergent
utility knife dust mask Broom Belt sander with coarse sanding belt
Spray bottle hand maul Tape measure eye and ear protection
Wallboard knife
Use a floor scraper to remove resilient flooring products and to scrape off leftover adhesives or backings. The long handle
provides leverage and force, and it allows you to work in a comfortable standing position. A scraper will remove most flooring, but
you may need to use other tools to finish the job.
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■ How to Remove Sheet Vinyl
1 2
Cut strips. Remove base moldings, if necessary. Use a utility Pull up as much flooring as possible by hand, gripping
knife to cut old flooring into strips about a foot wide. the strips close to the floor to minimize tearing.
3 4
Cut stubborn sheet vinyl into strips about 5" wide. Starting Scrape up the remaining sheet vinyl and backing using
at a wall, peel up as much of the floor covering as possible. a floor scraper. If necessary, spray the backing again with the
If the felt backing remains, spray a solution of water and soap solution to loosen it. Sweep up the debris, then finish
liquid dishwashing detergent under the surface layer to help the cleanup with a wet/dry vacuum. Tip: Fill the vacuum with
separate the backing. Use a wallboard knife to scrape up about an inch of water to help contain dust.
particularly stubborn patches.
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■ How to Remove Vinyl Tile
1 2
Carefully pry tiles loose. Remove base moldings, if Remove stubborn adhesive or backing by wetting the
necessary. Starting at a loose seam, use a long-handled floor floor with a water/detergent mixture, then scraping with a
scraper to remove tiles. To remove stubborn tiles, soften the floor scraper.
adhesive with a heat gun, then use a wallboard knife to pry up
the tile and scrape off the underlying adhesive.
■ How to Remove Ceramic Tile

1 2
Knock tiles loose. Remove base moldings, if necessary. If you plan to reuse the underlayment, use a floor
Knock out tile using a hand maul and masonry chisel. If scraper to remove any remaining adhesive. You may have
possible, start in a space between tiles where the grout has to use a belt sander with a coarse sanding belt to grind off
loosened. Be careful when working around fragile fixtures, stubborn adhesive.
such as drain flanges.
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■ How to Remove Carpet
1 2
Using a utility knife, cut around metal threshold strips to Cut the carpet into pieces small enough to be easily
free the carpet. Remove the threshold strips with a flat pry bar. removed. Roll up the carpet and remove it from the room, then
remove the padding. Note: Padding is often stapled to the floor,
and usually will come up in pieces as you roll it up.
Using end-cutting nippers or pliers, remove all staples Variation: To remove glued-down carpet, first cut it into strips
from the floor. Pry tackless strips loose with a pry bar and with a utility knife, then pull up as much material as you can.
remove them. Scrape up the remaining cushion material and adhesive with a
floor scraper.
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Removing Underlayment
F looring contractors routinely remove the

underlayment along with the floor covering before
installing new flooring. This saves time and makes it
Beware of Screwheads ▸
possible to install new underlayment that is ideally
suited to ceramic and stone tile. do-it-yourselfers
using this technique should make sure they cut
flooring into pieces that can be easily handled.

eye and ear protection reciprocating saw
Gloves Wood chisel
Circular saw with Screwdriver
carbide-tipped hammer
blade hand maul
Flat pry bar masonry chisel
Warning ▸ Examine fasteners to see how the underlayment is

attached. Use a screwdriver to expose the heads of
This floor removal method releases flooring particles the fasteners. If the underlayment has been screwed
into the air. Be sure the flooring you are removing down, you will need to remove the floor covering and
does not contain asbestos. then unscrew the underlayment.
Remove underlayment and floor covering as though they were a single layer. This is an effective removal strategy with any
floor covering that is bonded to the underlayment.
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■ How to Remove Underlayment
1 2
Cut the flooring and underlayment. Remove base Use a reciprocating saw to extend cuts close to the
moldings, if necessary. Adjust the cutting depth of a circular edges of walls. Hold the blade at a slight angle to the floor,
saw to equal the combined thickness of your floor covering and try not to damage walls or cabinets. Do not cut deeper
and underlayment. Using a carbide-tipped blade, cut the floor than the underlayment. Use a wood chisel to complete cuts
covering and underlayment into squares measuring about 3 ft. near cabinets.
square. Be sure to wear eye protection and gloves.
Separate the underlayment from the subfloor using a Variation: If your existing floor is ceramic tile over plywood
flat pry bar and hammer. Remove and discard the sections of underlayment, use a hand maul and masonry chisel to chip
underlayment and floor covering immediately, watching for away the tile along the cutting lines before making the cuts.
exposed nails.
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Underlayment
B efore you begin installing cementboard on a

horizontal surface, the substructure will need to
be examined to make sure it meets the requirements
on center (if the substructure is overlaid with ¾-inch
thick sheathing). unless otherwise allowed by the
manufacturer, use ½-inch thick cementboard for all
for a tile backer board installation. Wood subfloors other applications.
installed over 16 inch on-center floor joists must
be made of wood stock that is at least 5⁄8-inch thick
and rated for floor sheathing. Acceptable sheathing Tools & Materials ▸
includes exterior grade, tongue and groove, C-C
plugged or better plywood, or oriented strand board 6" joint knife Straightedge
(oSB) made with exterior glues. Floors that have large eye and ear protection Tape measure
dips or bulges, or any areas with deflection problems, 2" fiberglass mesh tape utility knife
will require structural repairs or reinforcement. it is 11⁄4" cementboard screws Thinset mortar
always recommended that you contact a structural ¼" square notched trowel Cementboard
engineer if you are unsure about the condition of your Floor-patching compound 1" deck screws
floor and support system. latex or acrylic additive Circular saw
Cabinet countertops require a minimum overlay heavy flooring roller power sander
of ¾-inch thick sheathing. The application of ¼-inch Work gloves dust mask
thick cementboard is optional for installation over drill
countertops, as well as for floor joists spaced 16 inches
Cementboard is the preferred underlayment material for a ceramic tile floor. When installed correctly it forms a highly stable
subbase that resists cracking of the tiles or grout lines.
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■ How to Install Cementboard Underlayment
1 2
In most cases, cementboard should be set into a bed or layer Fasten panels to the subfloor with 1¼" self-piloting
of thinset mortar. Use a ¼" square notched trowel to spread cementboard screws. Fasten screws every 6 to 8" in the field,
the setting bed of dry-set or modified thinset mortar. Apply keeping fasteners 2" away from each corner but no less than
only enough thinset for each panel and then set the panel into 3
⁄8" from the panel edges. Properly fastened, the head of each
position according to your layout lines. Set the panels with the screw will sit flush with or just slightly below the surface of
rougher-textured side facing up. the panel.
3 4
Add new panels, staggering the seams at adjoining panels Maintain 1⁄8"-wide gaps between panels. Fill these gaps with
to prevent any four corners from converging at one point. a modified thinset mortar, overlapping at least 2 to 3" on each
Install the cementboard perpendicular to floor joists, but avoid side of the juncture. Center and embed 2"-wide alkaline-resistant
aligning them with existing plywood joints on the sub-floor. fiberglass tape over the joint and tightly skim thinset over the
length of the abutment using a joint knife. Scrape off excess
mortar to ensure an even transition between panel edges.
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■ How to Install Plywood Underlayment
1 2
Begin by installing a full sheet of plywood along the Continue fastening sheets of plywood to the subfloor,
longest wall, making sure the underlayment seams will not be driving the screw heads slightly below the underlayment
aligned with the subfloor seams. Fasten the plywood to the surface. Leave 1⁄4" expansion gaps at the walls and between
subfloor, using 1" deck screws driven every 6" along the edges sheets. Offset seams in subsequent rows.
and at 8" intervals in the field of the sheet.
3 4 5
Using a circular saw or jigsaw, Mix floor-patching compound and Let the patching compound dry,
notch plywood to meet existing flooring latex or acrylic additive according to then sand the patched areas using a
in doorways, then fasten the notched the manufacturer’s directions. Spread power sander.
sheets to the subfloor. it over seams and screw heads with a
joint knife.
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■ How to Install Isolation Membrane
1 2
Thoroughly clean the subfloor, then apply thinset mortar Roll out the membrane over the mortar. Cut the
with a notched trowel. Start spreading the mortar along a wall membrane to fit tightly against the walls using a straightedge
in a section as wide as the membrane and 8 to 10 ft. long. and utility knife.
Note: For some membranes, you must use a bonding material
other than mortar. Read and follow label directions.
3 4
Starting in the center of the membrane, use a heavy Repeat steps 1 through 3, cutting the membrane as
flooring roller (available at rental centers) to smooth out the necessary at the walls and obstacles, until the floor is
surface toward the edges. This frees trapped air and presses completely covered with membrane. Do not overlap the
out excess bonding material. seams, but make sure they are tight. Allow the mortar to cure
for two days before installing the tile.
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Radiant Floor
F loor-warming systems require very little energy to

run and are designed to heat ceramic tile floors
only; they are not generally used as sole heat sources
connect to an existing GFCi circuit, but a larger
one will need a dedicated circuit; follow the
manufacturer’s requirements.
for rooms. To order a floor-warming system, contact the
A typical floor-warming system consists of one or manufacturer or dealer (see resources, page 249). in
more thin mats containing electric resistance wires most cases, you can send plans to the manufacturer
that heat up when energized like an electric blanket. and they’ll custom-fit a system for your project area.
The mats are installed beneath the tile and are
hardwired to a 120-volt GFCi circuit. A thermostat
controls the temperature, and a timer turns the system
off automatically. Tools & Materials ▸
The system shown in this project includes two
plastic mesh mats, each with its own power lead that Vacuum cleaner Trowel or rubber float
is wired directly to the thermostat. radiant mats may multimeter Conduit
be installed over a plywood subfloor, but if you plan Tape measure Thinset mortar
to install floor tile you should put down a base of Scissors Thermostat with sensor
cementboard first, and then install the mats on top of router/rotary tool Junction box(es)
the cementboard. marker Tile or stone
A crucial part of installing this system is to use electric wire fault floorcovering
a multimeter to perform several resistance checks to indicator (optional) drill
make sure the heating wires have not been damaged hot glue gun double-sided
during shipping or installation. radiant floor mats carpet tape
electrical service required for a floor-warming 12/2 Nm cable Cable clamps
system is based on size. A smaller system may
A radiant floor-warming system

employs electric heating mats that are
covered with floor tile to create a floor
that’s cozy underfoot.
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Installation Tips ▸
Thermostat
Dedicated circuit cable
Timer
Thermostat sensor wire
Electrical conduit
Power lead
Heating mats
Floor tile
Thinset mortar
Heating mat
Concrete or cementboard underlayment
A floor-warming system requires a dedicated circuit to

power and control its heating mats, thermostat, and timer.
• Each radiant mat must have a direct connection to the power lead from the thermostat, with the connection made in
a junction box in the wall cavity. Do not install mats in series.
• Do not install radiant floor mats under shower areas.
• Do not overlap mats or let them touch.
• Do not cut heating wire or damage heating wire insulation.
• The distance between wires in adjoining mats should equal the distance between wire loops measured center
to center.
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■ Installing a Radiant Floor-Warming System
Floor-warming systems must be installed on a circuit with An electric wire fault indicator monitors each floor mat for
adequate amperage and a GFCI breaker. Smaller systems may continuity during the installation process. If there is a break in
tie into an existing circuit, but larger ones need a dedicated continuity (for example, if a wire is cut), an alarm sounds. If you
circuit. Follow local building and electrical codes that apply to choose not to use an installation tool to monitor the mat, test
your project. for continuity frequently using a multimeter.
■ How To Install a Radiant Floor-Warming System

1 2
Install electrical boxes to house the thermostat and timer. Drill access holes in the sole plate for the power leads
In most cases, the box should be located 60" above floor level. that are preattached to the mats (they should be over 10 ft.
Use a 4"-deep × 4"-wide double-gang box for the thermostat/ long). The leads should be connected to a supply wire from the
timer control if your kit has an integral model. If your timer thermostat in a junction box located in a wall near the floor
and thermostat are separate, install a separate single box for and below the thermostat box. The access hole for each mat
the timer. should be located directly beneath the knockout for that cable
in the thermostat box. Drill through the sill plate vertically and
horizontally so the holes meet in an L-shape.
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3 4
Clean the floor surface thoroughly to get rid of any debris

that could potentially damage the wire mats. A vacuum cleaner
generally does a more effective job than a broom.
Test for resistance using a multimeter set to measure

ohms. This is a test you should make frequently during
the installation, along with checking for continuity. If the
resistance is off by more than 10% from the theoretical
resistance listing (see manufacturer’s chart in installation
instructions), contact a technical support operator for the kit
manufacturer. For example, the theoretical resistance for the
1 × 50 ft. mat seen here is 19, so the ohms reading should be
between 17 and 21.
Run conduit from the electrical boxes to the sill plate.

The line for the supply cable should be 3⁄4" conduit. If you
are installing multiple mats, the supply conduit should feed
into a junction box about 6" above the sill plate and then
continue into the 3⁄4" hole you drilled for the supply leads. The
sensor wire needs only 1⁄2" conduit that runs straight from Finalize your mat layout plan. Most radiant floor warming
the thermostat box via the thermostat. The mats should be mat manufacturers will provide a layout plan for you at the
powered by a dedicated 20-amp GFCI circuit of 12/2 NM cable time of purchase, or they will give you access to an online
run from your main service panel to the electrical box (this is design tool so you can come up with your own plan. This is
for 120-volt mats—check your instruction manual for specific an important step to the success of your project, and the
circuit recommendations). assistance is free.
(continued)
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7 8
Unroll the radiant mat or mats and allow them to settle. Finalize the mat layout and then test the resistance
Arrange the mat or mats according to the plan you created. again using a multimeter. Also check for continuity in several
It’s okay to cut the plastic mesh so you can make curves different spots. If there is a problem with any of the mats, you
or switchbacks, but do not cut the heating wire under any should identify it and correct it before proceeding with the
circumstances, even to shorten it. mortar installation.
Run the thermostat sensor wire from the electrical box Variation: If your local codes require it, roll the mats out of
down the 1⁄2" conduit raceway and out the access hole in the the way and cut a channel for the sensor and the sensor wires
sill plate. Select the best location for the thermostat sensor and into the floor or floor underlayment. For most floor materials,
mark the location onto the flooring. Also mark the locations of a spiral cutting tool does a quick and neat job of this task.
the wires that connect to and lead from the sensor. Remove any debris.
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10 11
Bond the mats to the floor. If the mats in your system have Cover the floor installation areas with a layer of thinset
adhesive strips, peel off the adhesive backing and roll out mortar that is thick enough to fully encapsulate all the wires
the mats in the correct position, pressing them against the and mats (usually around 1⁄4" in thickness). Check the wires
floor to set the adhesive. If your mats have no adhesive, bind for continuity and resistance regularly and stop working
them with strips of double-sided carpet tape. The thermostat immediately if there is a drop in resistance or a failure of
sensor and the power supply leads should be attached with continuity. Allow the mortar to dry overnight.
hot glue (inset photo) and run up into their respective holes in
the sill plate if you have not done this already. Test all mats for
resistance and continuity.
12 13
Connect the power supply leads from the mat or mats to Connect the sensor wire and the power supply lead
the NM cable coming from the thermostat inside the junction (from the junction box) to the thermostat/timer according
box near the sill. Power must be turned off. The power leads to the manufacturer’s directions. Attach the device to the
should be cut so about 8" of wire feeds into the box. Be sure to electrical box, restore power, and test the system to make sure
use cable clamps to protect the wires. it works. Once you are convinced that it is operating properly,
install floor tiles and repair the wall surfaces.
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Ceramic Floor Tile
T o begin a ceramic tile installation, snap

perpendicular reference lines and dry-fit tiles to
ensure the best placement.
use spacers between tiles to ensure consistent
spacing. plan an installation sequence to avoid
kneeling on set tiles. Be careful not to kneel or
When setting tiles, work in small sections walk on tiles until the designated drying period
so the mortar doesn’t dry before the tiles are set. is over.

⁄4" square-notched trowel
1
Soft cloth Grout sealer 11⁄4" cementboard screws
rubber mallet Thinset mortar Tile caulk Fiberglass-mesh wallboard tape
Tile cutter Tile Sponge brush utility knife or grout knife
Tile nippers Tile spacers Cementboard Threshold material
hand-held tile cutter Grout Chalk line Jigsaw or circular saw with a
Needlenose pliers latex grout additive Tape measure tungsten-carbide blade
Grout float Wall adhesive drill rounded bullnose tile
Grout sponge 2 × 4 lumber Caulk gun eye protection and gloves
Floor tile can be laid in many decorative patterns, but for your first effort, it may be best to stick to a basic grid. In most cases,
floor tile is combined with profiled base tile (installed after flooring).
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■ How to Install Ceramic Floor Tile
1 2
Fasten cementboard in place with 11⁄4" cementboard Draw reference lines and establish the tile layout. Mix a
screws. Place fiberglass-mesh wallboard tape over the seams. batch of thinset mortar, then spread the mortar evenly against
Cover the remainder of the floor, following the steps on both reference lines of one quadrant, using a 1⁄4" square-
page 71. notched trowel. Use the notched edge of the trowel to create
furrows in the mortar bed.
Option: Build a grid system of chalk lines based on the actual Set the first tile in the corner of the quadrant where the
dimensions of your tiles, including the grout lines. A grid reference lines intersect. When setting tiles that are 8" square
system ensures that you will stay on track and it helps you or larger, twist each tile slightly as you set it into position.
divide the project into small sections so you can apply the
correct amount of thinset without guessing.
(continued)
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4
Using a soft rubber mallet, gently tap the central area of Variation: For large tiles or uneven stone, use a larger trowel
each tile a few times to set it evenly into the mortar. with notches that are at least 1⁄2" deep.
Variation: For mosaic sheets, use a 3⁄16" V-notched trowel To ensure consistent spacing between tiles, place plastic
to spread the mortar and a grout float to press the sheets tile spacers at the corners of the set tile. With mosaic sheets,
into the mortar. Apply pressure gently to avoid creating an use spacers equal to the gaps between tiles.
uneven surface.
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6 7
Position and set adjacent tiles into the mortar along To make sure the tiles are level with one another, place
the reference lines. Make sure the tiles fit neatly against a straight piece of 2 × 4 across several tiles, then tap the board
the spacers. with a mallet.
8 9
Lay tile in the remaining area covered with mortar. Repeat Measure and mark tiles to fit against walls and into corners.
steps 2 to 8, continuing to work in small sections, until you Cut the tiles to fit leaving an expansion joint of about 1". Apply
reach walls or fixtures. thinset mortar directly to the back of the cut tiles, instead of the
floor, using the notched edge of the trowel to furrow the mortar.
(continued)
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10 11
Set the cut pieces of tile into position. Press down on the Measure, cut, and install tiles that require notches or curves
tile until each piece is level with adjacent tiles. to fit around obstacles, such as exposed pipes or toilet drains.
12 13
Carefully remove the spacers with needlenose pliers Apply mortar and set tiles in the remaining quadrants,
before the mortar hardens. completing one quadrant before starting the next. Inspect all
tile joints and use a utility knife or grout knife to remove any
high spots of mortar that could show through the grout.
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14 15
Install threshold material in doorways. If the threshold is Prepare a small batch of floor grout to fill the tile joints.
too long for the doorway, cut it to fit with a jigsaw or circular When mixing grout for porous tile, such as quarry or natural
saw and a tungsten-carbide blade. Set the threshold in thinset stone, use an additive with a release agent to prevent grout
mortar so the top is even with the tile. Keep the same amount from bonding to the tile surfaces.
of space between the threshold as between tiles. Let the
mortar set for at least 24 hours.
16 17
Starting in a corner, pour the grout over the tile. Use a Use the grout float to remove excess grout from the surface
rubber grout float to spread the grout outward from the corner, of the tile. Wipe diagonally across the joints, holding the float in
pressing firmly on the float to completely fill the joints. For best a near-vertical position. Continue applying grout and wiping off
results, tilt the float at a 60° angle to the floor and use a figure excess until about 25 sq. ft. of the floor has been grouted.
eight motion.
(continued)
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18 19
Wipe a damp grout sponge diagonally over about 2 sq. ft. Allow the grout to dry for about 4 hours, then use a
of the floor at a time. Rinse the sponge in cool water between soft cloth to buff the tile surface and remove any remaining
wipes. Wipe each area only once, since repeated wiping can grout film.
pull grout back out of joints. Repeat steps 15 to 18 to apply
grout to the rest of the floor.
20
Apply grout sealer to the grout lines using a small sponge Option: Use a tile sealer to seal porous tile, such as quarry tile
brush. Avoid brushing sealer onto the tile surfaces. Wipe up or unglazed tile. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, roll
any excess sealer immediately. a thin coat of sealer over the tile and grout joints using a paint
roller and extension handle.
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■ How to Install Bullnose Base Trim
1 2 3
Dry-fit the tiles to determine the Leaving a 1⁄8" expansion gap between Begin installing base-trim tiles at an
best spacing. Grout lines in base tile do tiles at corners, mark any contour inside corner. Use a notched trowel to
not always align with grout lines in the cuts necessary to allow the coved apply wall adhesive to the back of the
floor tile. Use rounded bullnose tiles edges to fit together. Use a jigsaw with tile. Place 1⁄8" spacers on the floor under
at outside corners, and mark tiles for a tungsten-carbide blade to make each tile to create an expansion joint.
cutting as needed. curved cuts.
4 5 6
Press the tile onto the wall. Use a double-bullnose tile on one After the adhesive dries, grout the
Continue setting tiles, using spacers to side of outside corners to cover the vertical joints between tiles and apply
maintain 1⁄8" gaps between the tiles and edge of the adjoining tile. grout along the tops of the tiles to make
1
⁄8" expansion joints between the tiles a continuous grout line. Once the grout
and floor. hardens, fill the expansion joint between
the tiles and floor with caulk.
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■ Installing Ceramic Tile on a Basement Floor
Setting tile or flagstone on a concrete floor is a simple
project. its success depends on proper preparation
of the concrete, a good layout, and attention to detail
during the setting process. it’s important to fill dips,
cracks, and holes in the concrete with concrete patch
or floor leveler before setting tile. if the surface is
too uneven, the tile will crack under the pressure of
foot traffic.
Choose tile or stone with enough texture to
be a safe surface despite the moist conditions of a
basement. After you’ve chosen the tile or stone, ask
your retailer about the appropriate mortar and grout
for your application.
Before establishing reference lines for your
project, think about where to start tiling. The goal is to
continue working without having to step on previously Ceramic, porcelain, or stone tile is impervious to water and
laid tile. therefore makes an excellent flooring choice for basements.

Sponge ¼" notched square trowel Concrete patching Thinset or other mortar
rubber mallet Needlenose pliers compound Grout
paint roller rubber grout float Concrete sealer Spacers
Chalk line Trisodium phosphate Grout sealer paintbrush
Framing square rubber gloves Ceramic or stone tile
■ How to Install Tile on a Basement Floor

1 2
Scrub the floor with a solution of trisodium phosphate Test the layout by dry-setting one vertical and one horizontal
(TSP) and water, let it dry completely, and then check the row of tile all the way to the walls in both directions. If the
clean concrete for cracks, holes, and other damage. Fill layout results in uneven or awkward cuts at the edges, adjust
cracks and holes with concrete patching compound. Apply the reference lines to produce a better layout.
concrete sealer to the clean, patched, and dry concrete. Use a
paintbrush for the edges and the corners and a paint roller for
the remaining areas.
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3 4
Mix a batch of reinforced thinset mortar and spread Set a tile into the mortar bed so it aligns with your
it onto the floor with a ¼" square-notched trowel. Hold the reference lines. Rap the tile very gently with a rubber mallet to
trowel at a 30° angle and avoid obscuring your reference lines. seat it in the mortar bed. Make sure it remains aligned properly.
Spread mortar for the next tile, or as many as you think you
can install in about 20 minutes. If your tiles do not have cast-in
nibs that set the spacing automatically, use plastic tile spacers
between tiles to create consistent grout gaps.
5 6 7
“Butter” smaller tiles that are cut Mix sanded grout according to the Seal the grout lines with penetrating
to fill out the ends of runs by applying manufacturers directions and fill the grout sealer after the material has cured
thinset mortar directly to the tile back, gaps between tiles with the grout. Use a for at least a week (see manufacturer’s
using a ¼" square-notched trowel. Set grout gloat to apply the grout. Remove directions). Use a sponge brush or a
remaining tiles and let the mortar set excess grout with a sponge and clean corner paint roller to apply the sealant.
up and dry for at least 24 hours before water after the grout film on the tile
walking on the tiles. surfaces dries to a haze. Don’t get too
aggressive here.
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Stone & Mosaic Tile Floor
T he project that follows combines 4 × 4 tumbled stone

tile with a stone mosaic medallion and border to
produce a decorative effect in an entryway. This idea could
Some stone should be sealed before it’s set
because grout tends to stain it. Ask your dealer for
specific recommendations.
be adapted for many rooms. You could border a seating
area or create the effect of a rug in front of a fireplace, for
example. To lay out a similar design, refer to pages 92 and
93, then center the medallion within the border. Tools & Materials ▸
The techniques for setting natural stone are
the same as those used with ceramic tile. There are Chalk line Thinset mortar
several special considerations, however. 1
⁄4" square-notched Tile spacers
First, stone tile cracks more easily than ceramic. trowel Threshold material
it’s extremely important to provide a firm, flat rubber mallet Grout
substrate for stone tile projects, especially when Tile-cutting tools latex additive
you’re using large tiles. The larger the tile, the more Needlenose pliers (mortar and grout)
susceptible it is to stress fractures if the floor structure utility knife Grout sealer
doesn’t support it adequately. See pages 70 to 73 for Grout float Cementboard
information on installing underlayment. Grout sponge Fiberglass-mesh tape
Natural stone is subject to greater variation from Buff rag Wallboard knife
one tile to the next than manufactured materials. Foam brush eye protection
Cartons of some stone tile, especially larger polished 4 × 4" stone tile hammer
stone varieties, may include warped tiles. Be sure to mosaic tile Baseboards
buy enough tile that any severely warped tiles can be mosaic medallion or base-trim tile
sorted out and returned.
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Setting Stone Tile Floors ▸
Make sure the subfloor is flat Check for warped tiles. Lay Dry-lay polished stone tile
and firm. If problems exist, resolve polished stone tiles next to one floors with 1⁄16" spacers. Plan to use
them before beginning the tile another and check carefully. Mark unsanded grout. Use larger spacers
project. This is important for any tiles that are slightly warped and (and sanded grout) for informal
stone tile floor but critical for a build up thinset mortar to level stone floors.
polished stone tile floor. them during installation. Return
significantly warped tile to the dealer.
Use white thinset mortar for Seal tiles before installation to help Keep grout from staining stone
light-colored marble, travertine, keep contrasting grout from staining tile by wiping the tiles early and
and other natural stones, which are the stone. Check manufacturer’s often using a clean, damp cloth.
somewhat translucent. Take extra recommendations or consult your
care to create a very even surface tile retailer for suggestions. This is
when combing the mortar. particularly important when dealing
with porous or rough-surfaced stone.
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■ How to Set a Stone & Mosaic Tile Floor
1 2
Measure the area and make a scaled diagram of the space. Install and tape cementboard in the project area. (See
Measure the mosaic medallion and determine the size and pages 70 to 71 for full details.)
placement of the bordered area.
3 4
Snap perpendicular reference lines. Check the lines for On each line, mark a point equally distant from the center.
squareness using the 3-4-5 triangle method. If your mosaic medallion is a 12" square, mark the points at
12"; if it’s a 24" square, mark the points at 24", and so on.
Snap chalk lines to connect the points, establishing lines at a
45° angle.
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5 6
Following the layout created in step 1, measure and mark Dry-fit the tiles at the outside corners of the border
placement lines for the border. (Make sure these lines are arrangement, aligning the tile with the diagonal reference lines.
aligned with the first set of reference lines.) Cut mosaic tiles Use spacers and adjust as necessary. When the layout of the
into strips and dry-fit the border. tiles is set, trace the edges of the outside tiles.
7 8
Set the field tile, cutting tile as necessary. Remove the Place the medallion in the center of the bordered area,
spacers. Let the mortar cure according to manufacturer’s aligning it with the diagonal reference lines. Dry-fit the field
instructions. Set the border tile. tiles within the border using spacers and aligning the tile with
the perpendicular reference lines.
(continued)
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9 10
For tricky cuts, make paper templates to match the tile size. Determine placement of accent tiles within field tile.
Use the templates to mark tiles for cutting. Measure the field accent tile and mark cutting lines on field tile
to accommodate them.
11 Distribute Your Weight ▸
Set medallion, then the field tile within the border.

(Avoid placing your weight on newly set tiles.) Remove the If it is absolutely necessary to work from newly set
spacers and let the mortar dry overnight or according to tile, kneel on a wide board to distribute your weight.
manufacturer’s instructions.
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12 13
Install threshold material in doorways. Set the threshold Prepare a small batch of grout and fill the tile joints (see
in thinset mortar so the top is even with the tile. Use the same page 85 for details on grouting tile). When the grout has cured,
spacing used for the tiles. Let the mortar cure for at least seal the grout lines using a small sponge brush or sash brush.
24 hours.
14
Add wood baseboards or base-trim tiles at the edges of the room.
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Glass Mosaic Tile Floor
T hroughout history, mosaic tile has been more

than a floor or wall covering—it’s an art form. in
fact, the latin origins of the word mosaic refer to art
clean and prepare the floor. measure the room and
draw reference lines. lay out sheets of tile along both
the vertical and horizontal reference lines. if these
“worthy of the muses.” mosaic tile is beautiful and lines will produce small or difficult cuts at the edges,
durable, and working with it is easier than ever today. shift them until you’re satisfied with the layout.
modern mosaic floor tile is available in squares that
are held together by an underlayer of fabric mesh.
These squares are set in much the same way as larger
tile, but their flexibility makes them slightly more Tools & Materials ▸
difficult to hold, place, and move. The instructions
given with this project simplify the handling of Tape measure Tile adhesive
these squares. Chalk line Tile spacers
The colors of mosaic tile shift just as much as 1
⁄4" notched trowel Grout
any other tile, so make sure all the boxes you buy are Grout float Grout sealer
from the same lot and batch. Colors often vary from Grout sponge Tile nippers
one box to another, too, so it’s a good idea to mix tile Buff rag rubber mallet
between boxes to make any shifts less noticeable. Sponge applicator Tile cutter
it’s also important to know that adhesive made for Needlenose pliers Straightedge
other tile may not work with glass or specialty mosaic 2 × 4 wrapped in carpet eye protection
tile. Consult your tile retailer for advice on the right mosaic tile
mortar or mastic for your project. Before you start,
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■ How to Install a Glass Mosaic Floor
1 2
Beginning at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical Stabilize a sheet of tile by randomly inserting three or four
lines, apply the recommended adhesive in one quadrant. plastic spacers into the open joints.
Spread it outward evenly with a notched trowel. Lay down only
as much adhesive as you can cover in 10 to 15 minutes.
Pick up diagonally opposite corners of

3 the square and move it to the intersection
of the horizontal and vertical references
lines. Align the sides with the reference
lines and gently press one corner into
place on the adhesive. Slowly lower the
opposite corner, making sure the sides
remain square with the reference lines.
Massage the sheet into the adhesive,
being careful not to press too hard or twist
the sheet out of position. Continue setting
tile, filling in one square area after another.
(continued)
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4 5
When two or three sheets are in place, lay a scrap of When you’ve tiled up close to the wall or another
2 × 4 wrapped in carpet across them and tap it with a rubber boundary, lay a full mosaic sheet into position and mark it for
mallet to set the fabric mesh into the adhesive and force out trimming. If you’ve planned well and are installing small-tile
any trapped air. mosaics, you can often avoid cutting tiles.
6 7
If you do need to cut tiles in the mosaic sheet, and not just After you’ve scored the tiles, cut them each individually
the backing, score the tiles with a tile cutter. Be sure the tiles with a pair of tile nippers.
are still attached to the backing. Add spacers between the
individual tiles to prevent them from shifting as you score.
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8 9
Set tile in the remaining quadrants. Let the adhesive Mosaic tile has a much higher ratio of grout to tile than larger
cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Remove tiles do, so it is especially important to seal the grout with a
spacers with a needlenose pliers. Mix a batch of grout quality sealer after it has cured.
and fill the joints. Allow the grout to dry, according to
Working Around Obstacles ▸
1 2
To work around pipes and other obstructions, Set the cut sheet into an adhesive bed, and then cut
cut through the backing to create an access point for small pieces of tile and fit them into the layout as necessary.
the sheet. Then, remove the tiles within the mosaic
sheet to clear a space large enough for the pipe or
other obstruction.
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DIY Mosaic Design
Y ears ago, a mosaic was created slowly and

painstakingly by an artist. Some still create
mosaics this way, but today you don’t have to be an
it out. or, you can actually build an electronic grid of
photo boxes and assign a color to each box individually
as a layout reference. if you’d rather not take such a
accomplished artist to complete this project. With the hands-on approach to creating your own pattern, there
help of technology and the right supplies, practically are several websites online that can adapt any image to
anyone can create and set an original mosaic. a mosaic pattern for a nominal charge.
You can create a mosaic pattern with colored The appearance of your final project depends
pencils and graph paper, or you can use a digital image largely on available tile sizes and colors at the
and a color printer. Basic desktop publishing programs, mosaic tile supplies retailer. When making your
and even some word processing programs, allow you to tile purchase, add at least 10 percent for cutting
size and crop an image, overlay a scaled grid, and print and breakage.

Computer and printer Grout float Needlenose pliers mosaic mounting media
Chalk line Grout sponge Grout photograph or other image
1
⁄4" notched trowel Buff rag Thinset mortar latex additive (mortar and grout)
rubber mallet Tile grids Tile spacers ¾" mosaic floor tiles
Tile-cutting tools Floor tile
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■ How to Install an Original Mosaic Design
1 2
Choose a tile size (we used 3⁄4 × 3⁄4") and create a scaled Browse through some images for ideas and inspiration,
grid that represents the whole project layout. You can use a focusing especially on simple, geometric forms. Using your
computer program to do this, or draw your own grid, or even reference images as a general guide, fill in the boxes with color
use graph paper. to replicate the pattern you like. Because this involves a lot of
trial and error to get the best results, you’re much better off
using the computer program for this part.
3 4
Leave a couple of squares all around for a border. Once Print the pattern to actual size. Lay it on the floor and view
you’ve arrived at the pattern you like, add the border. Borders it from several angles—you may find that it looks very different
can be a solid color or multicolored, but they should contrast than it did on the computer. Make any adjustments you feel
with the adjoining tiles if possible. improve the pattern.
(continued)
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5 6
Using the pattern as a guide, assemble the mosaic tiles into As each frame is completed, cover it with mosaic mounting
tile grids. Start at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical media. Peel the backing off the media and press it over the
reference lines and mark off each square on the printout as the tile grid. Rub the media to make sure it sticks to each tile. (This
corresponding square is filled in the grid. may be easier with a helper.)
7 8
Hold the mounting media at the corners, and lift the tile Remove any old flooring and prepare the floor (see pages
from the grid. (Handle the media carefully to make sure the tile 60 to 73). Measure the area and snap reference lines.
stays in place.) Set the section aside.
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9 10
Spread thinset mortar in a grid-sized section at the Use a grout float to seat the tile in the mortar. Slide the
intersection of the horizontal and vertical reference lines. grout float over the surface of the mounting media, pressing
Position the mosaic at the exact intersection of the lines and down gently.
press it into position.
11 12
Reach under the mounting media to set a spacer at each Continue filling tile grids and adding them to the mosaic in
corner of the section and one in the middle of each side. an orderly fashion.
(continued)
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13 14
Allow the mortar to cure, according to manufacturer’s Dry-lay the field tile around the custom mosaic, and cut tiles
instructions. When the mortar is dry, carefully peel the as necessary. Then apply thinset mortar in small sections and
mounting media away from each section of tile. place field tile until the entire floor is tiled.
15 16
Mix a batch of grout, spread it over the tile, and press it into Wipe away excess grout with a damp sponge. Continue gently
the joints using a grout float. wiping the surface until it’s as clear as possible. Rinse the sponge
frequently and change the water as necessary. Allow the area to
dry. Polish off remaining grout residue with a clean, dry cloth.
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Tips for Working with Mosaics ▸
To use computer programs to generate your design,
you need specialized software, access to a scanner, and a
photograph or piece of artwork to scan. After you import
the image file, the program reads the file, assigns tile colors
to it, and creates a pattern—some even produce a precise
shopping list for the project. The process is fairly easy
and the results can be spectacular. Following a computer-
generated chart, place tiles in grids and use mosaic
mounting media to transfer them to the project area (see
pages 101 to 104).
Use bright white grout around small mosaic tiles,

especially glass mosaic tiles. A white-tinted thinset mortar
is also used with most glass tiles—standard thinset will
read through the tile and dull the appearance.
Cross-stitch and needlepoint patterns are designed

to create patterns from small squares of color. Simpler
patterns can be used as mosaic designs, too. Assign
tile colors for the various thread colors indicated on the
pattern. Set the tile as described on page 102.
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Combination Tile Floor
T his hybrid product combines the classic,

refined look of ceramic tile with the easy
installation of resilient flooring. made to
Some manufacturers offer generous warranties,
promising that the tiles will not fade, stain, crack, or
show wear for many years. This confidence translates
resemble a range of hard materials, from slate to to peace of mind for you.
quarry tile to marble, combination tiles feel warmer
and more comfortable underfoot than ordinary
ceramic tile. Tools & Materials ▸
designs vary from brand to brand, but most
major manufacturers of resilient tile now offer Tape measure Cleaning supplies
combination products as well. You can install them Chalk line Coping saw (or cutting
like resilient tile, with each tile placed tightly against 1
⁄16" notched trowel tool recommended
the next, or you can leave spaces between the Combination tile by manufacturer)
squares and add grout to replicate the look and feel Flooring adhesive Grout (optional)
of ceramic tile. Weighted roller eye protection
With or without grout, combination tile—also Joint sealer
known as compound resilient tile—is easy to maintain.
In kitchens and bathrooms, floor

coverings need to withstand heavy traffic,
frequent cleaning, and lots of moisture.
Ceramic tile meets these needs, but it can
be difficult to install, feels cold underfoot,
and is not forgiving with dropped dishes.
Vinyl, in sheets or tiles, makes a softer,
warmer surface that is inexpensive
and relatively easy to install. But vinyl is
Clear protective wear layer vulnerable to scrapes and gouges and
doesn’t last as long as ceramic tile. In
recent years, manufacturers have found
ways of using the best properties of both
Ceramic layer materials in combination tiles. These
vinyl tiles are covered with a thin layer of
ceramic composite. They can be installed
like regular vinyl tiles, with their edges
pushed together, or with spaces left
for grout.
Cushion layer
Resilient tile
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Combination tile cultivates the beauty and durability of stone or ceramic tile and adds the comfort and warmth of vinyl flooring.
The resulting material is truly the best of both worlds.
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■ How to Install Combination Tile
1 2
Combination tiles can be installed on a variety of surfaces. Measure the outside edges of the room. Find the middle
Check the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure your point on opposite walls and snap chalk lines between them.
underlayment is recommended. It should be clean, dry, and The intersection of the lines should be in the middle of
free of dust, dirt, grease, and wax. Sweep, vacuum, and damp- the room.
mop the surface before you begin.
3 4
Starting at the central intersection, dry-lay a row of tiles Re-mark your layout lines to match your adjusted center
to one wall. If the last tile will be less than ¼ the width of a full point from step 3. Check the central intersecting lines for
tile, you may want to move the center point. square using the 3-4-5 method.
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5 6
Avoid positioning tile joints directly over underlayment Apply the recommended adhesive to one quadrant of the
joints or seams in existing flooring. If this happens, reposition center intersection with a notched trowel. Let adhesive set for
the chalk lines to offset joints by at least 3" or half the width the time specified by the manufacturer and then lay tiles along
of one tile. Repeat the dry-laying test, adjusting the lines as the layout lines. Use only as much adhesive as you can cover
needed, until you have a definite starting point. during the working time allowed. Continue to work from the
center outward in each quadrant.
7 8
To work around obstacles, place the tile up against the Within an hour after the tiles are set, roll the floor with a
obstacle and mark cut lines. Follow manufacturer instructions weighted roller. Work in both directions, taking care not to push
for cutting tile. any tiles out of place. Re-roll the floor before grouting the tiles
or applying a joint sealer.
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Porcelain Snap-lock Tile
P orcelain snap-lock tile flooring is a relatively new

innovation that combines the easy installation of
laminate floors with the durability and feel of ceramic
is currently limited to a family of earth-tone beiges
and browns. These colors do blend with a wide range
of décor schemes, however. The mottled satin finish
tile. each square porcelain tile is placed on a plastic is also easy to clean and doesn’t show dirt between
tray with interlocking tabs on top of a rubberized cleanings. And, as the technology catches on, more
non-skid base. This construction allows the tiles to and more colors will likely become available.
be assembled into a floating floor that requires no
adhesive and creates a remarkably similar feel to a
conventional tile floor.
This type of tile floor is much quicker to lay, less Tools & Materials ▸
expensive, and it can be replaced with far less hassle
than a floor installed in a bed of adhesive. The floor Snap-lock tiles (See Angle grinder
can also be installed over any clean and stable existing resources, page 249) utility knife
surface as long as variations in the floor surface don’t Carpenter’s square mallet
exceed 1⁄4-inch over a 10-foot span. You can also choose rubber tapping block Flexible grout
from 12-inch or four-inch square tiles. once sealed rubber coated pull bar Grout float
with the flexible grout supplied by the manufacturer, eye and ear protection Sponge
the floor is as resistant to moisture as any tile floor. Trowel Tape measure
The one drawback to the snap-lock porcelain tile Wet saw Gloves
currently on the market is the palette of colors, which
The look and feel of traditional ceramic tile is replicated with these snap-together tiles made up of a porcelain ceramic
surface over a substrate that has interlocking tabs (inset). Flexible grout is the key to this system’s workability.
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■ How to Install a Snap-Lock Tile Floor
1 2
Check the door swing for all doors in the room to make Check that walls are square using a carpenter’s square
sure they will clear the new tile floor. If the door won’t clear, or the 3-4-5 measurement method. If walls are out of square,
or if the gap between the door and the floor is less than 1⁄4", decide how you will adjust rows to compensate. Also measure
remove and shorten the door. Flush-cut the door casings to floor width and decide if you want to place the first row in the
allow for tile clearance, and remove shoe molding and all center of the floor or begin at a wall.
appliances and fixtures that block access to the floor.
3 4
Lay the first two tiles after removing the lock tabs on the Use a rubber tapping block if you have difficulty engaging
wall-facing side or sides using a sharp utility knife. Start placing the locking tabs by simply pressing them together. Align the
tiles in the corner and leave a 1⁄4" expansion gap between tiles, then hold the block against the side of the tile—not
the tiles and the walls. Although the locking tabs project out the plastic tray or grid. Gently tap the block until the tiles
1
⁄4" from the tiles and thus would function as 1⁄4" spacers, the lock together.
fact that they are integral parts of the tiles makes this gap
ineffective as an expansion gap. Use traditional removable
spacers. Attach each new tile by aligning the tiles, connecting
at the corner and then pressing together until the tiles lock.
(continued)
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5 6
Continue to lay tiles, paying careful attention to layout Mark tiles to fit around obstacles or for the final row by
patterns and directional veining in the tile surfaces. If you laying one tile on top and aligning with the previous row. Then
make a mistake and need to remove and adjust a tile, you lay a tile on top of that one, and align within 1⁄4" of the wall or
can disconnect the joints with a rubber coated pull bar or any obstacle. Mark a cutline on the middle tile using the space
other prying tool with a protective surface coating. Place the between the tabs of the top tile as guidance.
tool edge between the two tiles and gently pry them apart.
7 Cutting Curves ▸
To cut curves and other irregular shapes,

use an angle grinder that’s fitted with a diamond-
tipped cutting wheel. Cut all the way through the
tile, including the plastic base layer. This will take
Cut tiles using a wet saw with a blade meant for cutting several passes. Note: The tiles seen here have very
ceramic and porcelain tiles. Cut on the waste side of the aggressive anti-skid ribs on the bottom and do not
marked line, and change water in the basin frequently to require securing to the worksurface as a typical
ensure clean cuts. Porcelain takes a long time to cut. Be workpiece would.
patient and do not force the tile into the saw blade.
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8 9
Set final tiles into position and then pull them back into the Apply grout in the tile gaps with a firm rubber grout float.
preceding rows using a rubberized pull bar. When the floor is Spread grout diagonally to the tile joints, working the grout
completed, open the pail of flexible grout and mix thoroughly firmly into the joints. Remove excess grout from the tiles with
with a trowel according to the manufacturer’s instructions. the edge of the float and touch up voids or low areas in the
grout joints.
10 Replacing a Damaged Tile ▸
To replace a porcelain snap-lock tile that has

been cracked or damaged, remove the grout all
around the tile. Use a grout cutter or simply chip out
the grout with an awl or fine chisel. In either case, be
careful not to chip the surrounding tiles. Then cut the
downward-facing tabs on three sides of the tile with a
utility knife. Pry up the broken tile and pull away from
the uncut side. Remove downward tabs on three sides
Clean off excess grout. Fill a 5 gal. bucket with clean water of the new tile and lay a bed of general construction
and use a sponge to clean the surfaces of the tiles. Wipe off adhesive under the new tile. Slide the new tile into
grout residue and use sponge to smooth grout lines. Important: place and lock the uncut side to the adjacent tile. Let
Rinse the sponge thoroughly with clean water after each pass. adhesive dry and grout with flexible grout.
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Shower Base Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Cpe waterproof
B uilding a custom-tiled shower base lets you choose Circular saw membrane
the shape and size of your shower rather than hammer & preformed
having its dimensions dictated by available products. utility knife dam corners
Building the base is quite simple, though it does require Stapler Cpe membrane
time and some knowledge of basic masonry techniques 2-ft. level solvent glue
because the base is formed primarily using mortar. What mortar mixing box Cpe membrane
you get for your time and trouble can be spectacular. Trowel sealant
Before designing a shower base, contact your local Wood float Cementboard
building department regarding code restrictions and Felt-tip marker and materials
to secure the necessary permits. most codes require ratchet wrench for installing
water controls to be accessible from outside the Tin snips cementboard
shower and describe acceptable door positions and Torpedo level materials for
operation. requirements like these influence the size Tools for installing tile installing tile
and position of the base. Framing lumber Builder’s sand
Choosing the tile before finalizing the design lets (1×, 2 × 4, 2 × 10) portland cement
you size the base to require mostly full tile. Showers 16d galvanized masonry hoe
are among the most frequently used amenities in common nails Gloves
the average home, so it really makes sense to build 15# building paper dust mask
one that is comfortable and pleasing to your senses. Staples or respirator
Consider using small tile and gradate the color from 3-piece shower drain Straightedge
top to bottom or in a sweep across the walls. or, pVC cement ¼" wood shims
use trim tile and listellos on the walls to create an Galvanized metal lath mortar
interesting focal point. Thick-bed floor mortar Tile spacers
Whatever tile you choose, remember to seal the (“deck mud”) Balloon tester
grout in your new shower and to maintain it carefully latex mortar additive Silicon caulk
over the years. Water-resistant grout protects the Thinset mortar Caulk gun
structure of the shower and prolongs its useful life.
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Top of CPE membrane
No fasteners below top of CPE membrane
Floor mortar
Metal lath
Floor mortar
CPE membrane
Floor mortar
Subfloor
Metal lath
Tar paper
3-piece drain
Tile spacers
Shown cut away for clarity
Tips for Building a Custom Shower Base ▸

A custom-tiled shower base is built in three layers to ensure proper water drainage: the pre-pan, the shower pan, and the
shower floor. A mortar pre-pan is first built on top of the subfloor, establishing a slope toward the drain of 1⁄4" for every
12" of shower floor. Next, a waterproof chlorinated polyethylene (CPE) membrane forms the shower pan, providing a
watertight seal for the shower base. Finally, a second mortar bed reinforced with wire mesh is installed for the shower
floor, providing a surface for tile installation. If water penetrates the tiled shower floor, the shower pan and sloped pre-pan
will direct it to the weep holes of the 3-piece drain.
One of the most important steps in building a custom-tiled shower base is testing the shower pan after installation
(step 13). This allows you to locate and fix any leaks to prevent costly damage.
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Mixing Deck Mud ▸
Mortar beds for laying tile are made from deck mud, a
simple mortar consisting of a proportioned mixture of
builders sand and Portland cement, with a little water
added to bind the particles together. Sometimes referred
to as dry pack mortar or floor mud, it can be purchased in
prepackaged blends or you can easily make it yourself. It
can be set in thicker layers than ordinary thinset mortar.
Deck mud is made using a recipe consisting of a ratio
of four to six parts of builders sand to one part of Portland
cement. The higher the proportion of Portland cement
in the mixture, the richer it is considered to be. Leaner
mortars contain a lower proportion of Portland cement. A
mortar bed 1¼" thick (a common thickness for a shower
receptor base) requires approximately 12 pounds of dry
sand per square foot of application. Add an additional
three pounds of sand per square foot for each additional
¼" of mortar thickness desired. The amount of Portland
cement required will depend on the mixing ratio and the
The ingredients for making your own mortar bed “mud”
total volume of sand required to complete the job. A richer are minimal. You’ll need sharp sand (also called builders
blend that uses a four to one ratio is suitable for small sand), Portland cement, and water. The proportions vary
areas like shower pan mortar beds. by application.
■ How to Mix Deck Mud

1 2 3
Add the dry ingredients (builders Add small amounts of clean, potable A squeezed clump of deck mud
sand and Portland cement) to a mortar water to the dry mixture and blend to should hold its shape without sagging or
box in the correct ratios. For general an evenly moist consistency using a falling apart.
purposes, four parts sand to one part masonry hoe. Be sure to wear gloves
mortar mix (by volume) works. Don’t mix and a dust mask or respirator.
more mud than you can use in a half
hour or so.
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■ How to Build a Custom-tiled Shower Base
1 2
Remove building materials to expose subfloor and stud Staple 15# building paper to the subfloor of the shower
walls. Cut three 2 × 4s for the curb and fasten them to the base. Disassemble the 3-piece shower drain and glue the
floor joists and the studs at the shower threshold with 16d bottom piece to the drain pipe with PVC cement. Partially
galvanized common nails. Also cut 2 × 10 lumber to size screw the drain bolts into the drain piece, and stuff a rag into
and install in the stud bays around the perimeter of the the drain pipe to prevent mortar from falling into the drain.
shower base.
3 4
Mark the height of the bottom drain piece on the wall Staple galvanized metal lath over the building paper; cut
farthest from the center of the drain. Measure from the center a hole in the lath 1⁄2" from the drain. Mix floor mortar (or “deck
of the drain straight across to that wall, then raise the height mud”) to a fairly dry consistency using a latex additive for
mark 1⁄4" for every 12" of shower floor to slope the pre-pan strength; mortar should hold its shape when squeezed (inset).
toward the drain. Trace a reference line at the height mark Trowel the mortar onto the subfloor, building the pre-pan from
around the perimeter of the entire alcove using a level. the flange of the drain piece to the height line on the perimeter
of the walls.
(continued)
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5 6
Continue using the trowel to Measure the dimensions of the shower floor, and mark it out on a sheet of CPE
form the pre pan, checking the slope waterproof membrane using a felt-tipped marker. From the floor outline, measure
using a level and filling any low spots out and mark an additional 8" for each wall and 16" for the curb end. Cut the
with mortar. Finish the surface of the membrane to size using a utility knife and straightedge. Be careful to cut on a clean,
pre-pan with a wood float until it is smooth surface to prevent puncturing the membrane. Lay the membrane onto the
even and smooth. Allow the mortar to shower pan.
cure overnight.
7 8
Measure to find the exact location of the drain and mark Apply CPE sealant around the drain. Fold the membrane
it on the membrane, outlining the outer diameter of the drain along the floor outline. Set the membrane over the pre-
flange. Cut a circular piece of CPE membrane roughly 2" larger pan so the reinforced drain seal is centered over the drain
than the drain flange, then use CPE membrane solvent glue to bolts. Working from the drain to the walls, carefully tuck the
weld it into place and reinforce the seal at the drain. membrane tight into each corner, folding the extra material
into triangular flaps.
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9 10
Apply CPE solvent glue to one side, press the flap At the shower curb, cut the membrane along the studs so
flat, then staple it in place. Staple only the top edge of the it can be folded over the curb. Solvent-glue a dam corner at
membrane to the blocking; do not staple below the top of the each inside corner of the curb. Do not fasten the dam corners
curb, or on the curb itself. with staples.
11 12
At the reinforced drain seal on the membrane, locate Use a utility knife to carefully cut away only enough of the
and mark the drain bolts. Press the membrane down around membrane to expose the drain and allow the middle drain
the bolts, then use a utility knife to carefully cut a slit just large piece to fit in place. Remove the drain bolts, then position
enough for the bolts to poke through. Push the membrane the middle drain piece over the bolt holes. Reinstall the bolts,
down over the bolts. tightening them evenly and firmly to create a watertight seal.
(continued)
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13 14
Test the shower pan for leaks overnight. Place a balloon Install cementboard on the alcove walls, using ¼" wood
tester in the drain below the weep holes, and fill the pan with shims to lift the bottom edge off the CPE membrane. To
water, to 1" below the top of the curb. Mark the water level and prevent puncturing the membrane, do not use fasteners in the
let the water sit overnight. If the water level remains the same, lower 8" of the cementboard. Cut a piece of metal lath to fit
the pan holds water. If the level is lower, locate and fix leaks in around the three sides of the curb. Bend the lath so it tightly
the pan using patches of membrane and CPE solvent. conforms to the curb. Pressing the lath against the top of the
curb, staple it to the outside face of the curb. Mix enough
mortar for the two sides of the curb.
15 16
Overhang the front edge of the curb with a straight Attach the drain strainer piece to the drain, adjusting
1× board, so it is flush with the outer wall material. Apply it to a minimum of 1½" above the shower pan. On one wall,
mortar to the mesh with a trowel, building to the edge of the mark 1½" up from the shower pan, then use a level to draw
board. Clear away excess mortar, then use a torpedo level to a reference line around the perimeter of the shower base.
check for plumb, making adjustments as needed. Repeat for Because the pre-pan establishes the ¼" per foot slope, this
the inside face of the curb. Allow the mortar to cure overnight. measurement will maintain that slope.
Note: The top of the curb will be finished after tile is installed
(step 19).
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17 18
Spread tile spacers over the weep holes of the drain to Continue to add mortar, building the floor to the reference
prevent mortar from plugging the holes. Mix the floor mortar, line on the walls. Use a level to check the slope, and pack
then build up the shower floor to roughly half the thickness of mortar into low spots with a trowel. Leave space at the drain
the base. Cut metal lath to cover the mortar bed, keeping it 1⁄2" for the thickness of the tile. Float the surface using a wood
from the drain (see photo in step 18). float until it is smooth and slopes evenly to the drain. When
finished, allow the mortar to cure overnight before installing
the tiles.
19 20
After the floor has cured, draw reference lines and Mix enough floor mortar to cover the unfinished top of the
establish the tile layout, then mix a batch of thinset mortar curb, then pack it in place between the tiles using a trowel.
and install the floor tile. At the curb, cut the tiles for the inside Screed off the excess mortar flush with the tops of the side
to protrude 1⁄2" above the unfinished top of the curb, and the tiles. Allow the mortar to cure, then install bullnose cap tile.
tiles for the outside to protrude 5⁄8" above the top, establishing Install the wall tile, then grout, clean, and seal all the tile. After
a 1⁄8" slope so water drains back into the shower. Use a level to the grout has cured fully, run a bead of silicone caulk around
check the tops of the tiles for level as you work. all inside corners to create control joints.
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Wall Projects
T his chapter starts with a very basic wall project that
can be adapted for many different applications.
Then, we go over how to tile a tub alcove, another tile
project that’s frequently undertaken by do-it-yourselfers.
From these beginnings, it’s a small step to learn
how to embellish an existing tile wall with a medallion
or decorative tile, or tile a fireplace surround or
kitchen backsplash. With the confidence developed
in those projects, you’ll be ready to tile a tub deck or
build a wall niche, if the opportunity arises.
The projects in this chapter introduce you to
several new and interesting techniques. The tub deck
project shows you how to set several types of trim
tile and the wall niche project illustrates how to set
irregularly shaped, groutless tile. The medallion project
walks you through how to embellish an otherwise plain
tiled wall without re-tiling the entire surface.
Use these projects as jumping off points, as places
from which to let your imagination soar. Study the
techniques and information presented here, then
throw in some accent tiles or get creative and add
splashes of color—make a project your own.
In this chapter:
• Gallery of Wall • Wall Tile Layouts
Tile Projects • Installing Wall Tile
• Evaluating • Installing a Tub
& Preparing Walls Tile Surround
• Removing Wall Surfaces • Tiled Tub Apron
• Installing • Tile Wall Niche
& Finishing Wallboard • Retrofit Accent Strip
• Installing Cementboard • Fireplace Surround
on Walls
■ 123
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Gallery of Wall Tile Projects
Subway tile has a horizontal orientation that many designers Larger tiles make sense in a shower because the relatively
find appealing. Although most subway tile installations feature low number of grout lines means the likelihood of a leak is
white or primary colors, the earth tone tiles seen here have a smaller. The large areas also make cleaning easier.
mellow, natural appearance.
Mirrored glass and polished tiles are a natural pairing with Using the same tile style on the walls and floors can be
a cool, clean look. Glass shelving intensifies the effect. a tricky design maneuver, but if handled with some expertise
the effect can be highly dramatic.
124 ■ The CompleTe Guide To CeramiC Tile
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Mosaic wall tile works best when it is
installed with some discretion. Featuring
it only on one wall is a tested strategy
that usually succeeds. Choose a wall
with some interesting features, such as a
lavatory sink, a mirror, or a built-in shelf or
cabinet.
Bold colors and a contrasting installation scheme combine for an attention-getting statement. This may be very successful in
a small bath, but the effect can be dizzying if it is not restrained somewhat.
Wall Projects ■ 125
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High-tech, contemporary furnishings look great in a room Checkered mosaic accents not only make a tiled room
with bright glass tile walls. more interesting, they help define space according to
its function.
You can use every tile shape and style in the book if you stick to a consistent color scheme.
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Etched tiles can be created for you by custom tile suppliers. The large tub surround tile with its etched form functions very much
as wall art in this installation.
Wall tile can be installed as wainscot for a traditional look that Colorful tiles are fun to look at and they can be used to
makes a small room seem larger. Raising the top height of the effectively complement unconventional design choices, such
wainscot above the typical 36" creates an even more old- as the green glass valve handle on this lavatory.
fashioned effect that is often found in Victorian-style rooms.
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Evaluating & Preparing Walls
T he substrate for wall tiles must be stable; that is,

it must not expand and contract in response to
changes in temperature or humidity. For this reason,
without additional preparation. mix extra portland
cement into brick mortar, apply a smooth, even skim
coat to the walls, and let it dry thoroughly before
it will be necessary to strip all wallpaper before beginning the tile project.
tiling, even if the paper has been painted. Similarly, existing tile can be tiled over as long as the
remove any type of wood paneling before tiling a glaze has been roughened enough for the adhesive
wall. even painted walls need some preparation. For to adhere properly. remember, though, that the new
example, paint that’s likely to peel needs to be sanded tile will protrude quite a way from the wall. You’ll
thoroughly before the project starts. need to accommodate for this on the edges and
Smooth concrete walls can be tiled, but the around receptacles, switches, windows or doors, and
concrete has to be prepared. Scrub it with a concrete other obstacles.
cleaner, then apply a concrete bonding agent. Use a in some cases, you’ll find that it’s easiest to remove
grinder to smooth any unevenness. install an isolation the old substrate and install new (see pages 130 to
membrane (see page 42) to keep the tile from cracking 131). even if you’re working with an appropriate
if the walls crack, which is a common problem. substrate in good condition, you will need to evaluate
Brick or block walls are a good substrate for tiling, the wall to make sure it is plumb and flat, and fix
but the surface is not smooth enough to be tiled surface flaws before you begin your wall tiling project.
Run a straightedge up and down and side-to-side along wall surfaces and outline the valleys. Any difference of 1⁄4" or more
must be filled with joint compound using a 12" taping knife. You may need to apply a number of thin layers for best results. Some
plaster surfaces are softer than others. High lime content plaster (inset) is too soft to serve as a backing surface for tile.
128 ■ The CompleTe GUide To CeramiC Tile
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■ How to Patch Holes
Patching small holes: Fill smooth holes with spackle, then Patching large holes: Draw cutting lines around the hole,
sand smooth. Cover ragged holes with a repair patch, then then cut away the damaged area using a wallboard saw. Place
apply two coats of spackle or wallboard compound. Use a plywood strips behind the opening and drive wallboard screws
damp sponge or wet sander to smooth the repair area, then to hold them in place. Drive screws through the wallboard
sand when dry, if necessary. patch and into the backers. Cover the joints with wallboard
tape and finish with compound.
■ Checking & Correcting Out-of-Plumb Walls

1 2 3
Use a plumb bob to determine if If the wall is out of plumb, use a long Cut and install shims on all the
corners are plumb. A wall more than level to mark a plumb line the entire studs to create a new, plumb surface
1
⁄2" out of plumb should be corrected height of the wall. Remove the wall for attaching backing materials. Draw
before tiling. covering from the out-of-plumb wall. arrows at the shim highpoints to mark
for wallboard screw placement.
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Removing Wall Surfaces
Y ou may have to remove and replace interior wall

surfaces before starting your tiling project. most
often, the material you’ll be removing is wallboard, but
you may be removing plaster or ceramic tile. removing
wall surfaces is a messy job, but it is not difficult.
Before you begin, shut off the power and inspect the
wall for wiring and plumbing.
make sure you wear appropriate safety gear—
glasses and dust masks—since you will be generating
dust and small pieces of debris. Use plastic sheeting to Sheathing
close off doorways and air vents to prevent dust from

spreading throughout the house. protect floor surfaces Insulation
and the bathtub with rosin paper securely taped down.
dust and debris will find their way under drop cloths
and will quickly scratch your floor or tub surfaces.
Vapor barrier

Wallboard
Utility knife heavy tarp

pry bar reciprocating saw
Circular saw with with bimetal blade
demolition blade hammer
Straightedge protective eyewear Be aware of how your wall is built before you start
maul dust mask tearing off surfaces. If it is an exterior wall take extra care not
masonry chisel 2 × 4 lumber to disturb insulation. You should plan on replacing the vapor
barrier before installing new wallcoverings.
■ How to Remove Wallboard

1 2
Remove baseboards and other trim and prepare the work Insert the end of a pry bar into the cut near one corner of
area. Make a 1⁄2"-deep cut from floor to ceiling using a circular the opening. Pull the pry bar until the wallboard breaks, then
saw. Use a utility knife to finish the cuts at the top and bottom tear away the broken pieces. Take care to avoid damaging the
and to cut through the taped horizontal seam where the wall wallboard outside the project area.
meets the ceiling surface.
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■ How to Remove Plaster
1 2 3
Remove baseboards and other trim Break the plaster along the edge by Cut through the lath along the edges
and prepare the work area. Score the holding a scrap piece of 2 × 4 on edge of the plaster using a reciprocating saw
cutting line several times with a utility just inside the scored line, and rapping it or jigsaw. Remove the lath from the
knife using a straightedge as a guide. with a hammer. Use a pry bar to remove studs using a pry bar.
The line should be at least 1⁄8" deep. the remaining plaster.
■ How to Remove Ceramic Wall Tile

1 2 3
Cover the floor with a heavy tarp, Begin cutting out small sections Cut the entire wall surface into small
and shut off the electricity and water. of the wall by inserting a reciprocating sections, removing each section as it is
Knock a small starter hole into the saw with a bimetal blade into the hole, cut. Be careful not to cut through studs.
bottom of the wall using a maul and and cutting along grout lines. Be careful
masonry chisel. when sawing near pipes and wiring.
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Installing & Finishing Wallboard
R egular wallboard is an appropriate backer for

ceramic tile in dry locations. Greenboard, a
moisture-resistent form of wallboard, is good for
kitchens and the dry areas of bathrooms. Tub and
shower surrounds and kitchen backsplashes should
have a cementboard backer.
Wallboard panels are available in 4 × 8-foot
or 4 × 10-foot sheets, and in 3⁄8-, 1⁄2-, and 5⁄8-inch
thicknesses. For new walls, 1⁄2-inch thick is standard.
install wallboard panels so that seams fall over
the center of framing members, not at sides. use all-
purpose wallboard compound and paper joint tape to
finish seams.

Tape measure Wallboard
utility knife Wallboard tape
T-square 11⁄4” coarse-thread
6” and 12” wallboard screws
taping knives Wallboard compound Score wallboard face paper with a utility knife using
150-grit sanding sponge metal inside a drywall T-square as a guide. Bend the panel away from the
Screw gun corner bead scored line until the core breaks, then cut through the back
paper (inset) with a utility knife, and separate the pieces.
■ How to Install and Finish Wallboard

1 2 3
Install panels with their tapered Finish the seams by applying an even Center the wallboard tape over
edges butted together. Fasten with 11⁄4" bed layer of wallboard compound over the seam and lightly embed it into the
wallboard screws, driven every 8" along the seam, about 1⁄8" thick using a 6" compound, making sure it’s smooth
the edges, and every 12" in the field. taping knife. and straight.
Drive screws deep enough to dimple
surface without ripping face paper (inset).
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4 5
Smooth the tape with the taping knife. Apply enough Second-coat the seams with a thin, even layer of compound
pressure to force compound from underneath the tape, using a 12" knife. Feather the sides of the compound first,
leaving the tape flat and with a thin layer underneath. Cover holding the blade almost flat and applying pressure to the
all exposed screw heads with the first of three coats of outside of the blade so the blade just skims over the center of
compound (inset). Let compound dry overnight. the seam.
6 Inside Corner Bead ▸
After feathering both sides, make a pass down the center Finish any inside corners using paper-faced metal
of the seam, leaving the seam smooth and even, the edges inside corner bead to produce straight, durable
feathered out even with the wallboard surface. Completely corners with little fuss. Embed the bead into a thin
cover the joint tape. Let the second coat dry, then apply a third layer of compound, then smooth the paper with a
coat using the 12" knife. After the third coat dries completely, taping knife. Apply two finish coats to the corner,
sand the compound lightly with a wallboard sander or a then sand the compound smooth.
150-grit sanding sponge.
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Installing Cementboard on Walls
B efore you begin working, the wall and ceiling

framing will need to be examined to make
sure it meets the structural requirements for a
wall assembly. Subsequent rows should overlap
the subjacent row a minimum of two inches for
horizontal seams and six inches for vertical seams
backer board installation. Studs, joists, and rafters, and corners.
often referred to as framing members, should be
spaced a maximum of 16 inches on center for
wall applications. Tools & Materials ▸
in wet areas, the application of a moisture
barrier, 15 pound roofing felt or polyethylene film, eye and ear protection 15# roofing felt
is required to protect the wall cavity from moisture Screw fastening bit ½" cementboard
intrusion. This is fastened directly to the framing Stapler and staples Work gloves
members using staples or roofing nails. polyethylene modified thinset mortar drill
sheeting is commonly found in rolls that are wide 4-mil clear poly sheeting Tape measure
enough to cover an entire wall in one piece. asphalt 2" fiberglass mesh tape 6" joint knife
roofing felt (also called building paper) is installed 1¼" cementboard screws
in lapped rows, starting from the bottom of the
Attach ½"-thick cementboard to the framing members horizontally with the rough side facing out. Use 1¼" cementboard
screws. Fasten screws every 6" on-center for ceiling applications and every 8" on-center for wall applications. Keep fasteners 2"
away from each corner and no less than 3⁄8" from the panel edges.
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■ Preparing the Wall
A moisture barrier consisting of 4-mil clear polyethylene Asphalt roofing felt (15# building paper) can also be used as
sheeting can be stapled to framing members in wet areas a moisture barrier behind cementboard panels in wet areas.
before installing the cementboard.
■ How to Hang Cementboard on Walls

1 2 3
Fasten panels to the wall framing Fill the joints using a modified thinset Complete the cementboard
members using 1¼" cementbord mortar and then embed fiberglass mesh installation by applying thinset mortar
screws. Properly fastened, the head of tape into the mortar. Skim off excess over the tape and feathering out
each screw will sit flush with the surface mortar from the joint using a joint knife. the edges. If you will be applying a
of the panel. Make sure all seams fall waterproofing membrane over the
at stud locations and install the bottom cementboard surfaces, allow 24 hrs. for
course so the panels are around ¼" off the thinset in the seams to dry.
the ground.
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Wall Tile Layouts
E stablishing perpendicular reference lines is a

critical part of every tile project, including wall
projects. To create these lines, measure and mark
the midpoint at the top and bottom of the wall, and
then again along each side. Snap chalk lines between
opposite marks to create your vertical and horizontal
centerlines. Use the 3-4-5 triangle method to make
sure the lines are drawn correctly. adjust the lines
until they are exactly perpendicular.
Next, do a dry run of your proposed layout,
starting at the center of the wall and working toward
an adjoining wall. if the gap between the last full
tile and the wall is too narrow, adjust your starting
point. Continue to dry-fit tile along the walls, paying
special attention to any windows, doors, or permanent
fixtures in the wall. if you end up with very narrow tiles
anywhere, adjust the reference lines (and your layout) to
avoid them. it’s best not to cut tiles by more than half.
if your wall has an outside corner, start your dry
run there. place bullnose tiles over the edges of the
adjoining field tiles. if this results in a narrow gap
at the opposite wall, install trimmed tile next to the Draw your tile layout to scale on the wall drawing to
bullnose edge to even out or avoid the gap. establish your reference lines.
■ Check the Walls
Check the walls and corners to see if they’re plumb. Make Measure the walls, paying particular attention to the
any necessary adjustments before beginning your tile project. placement of windows, doors, and permanent fixtures. Use these
measurements to create a scale drawing of each wall to be tiled.
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■ How to Test a Wall Layout
1 2
Attach a batten to the wall along your horizontal reference If you end up with too narrow a gap along the wall in
line using screws. Dry-fit tiles on the batten, aligning the middle step 1, move over half the width of a tile by centering the
tile with the vertical centerline. middle tile over the vertical centerline.
3 4
Use a story stick to determine whether your planned layout Dry-fit the first row of tile, then hold a story stick along the
works vertically. If necessary, adjust the size of the first row horizontal guideline with one grout line matched to the vertical
of tile. reference line. Mark the grout lines, which will correspond
with the grout lines of the first row and can be used as
reference points.
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Installing Wall Tile
T ile is an ideal covering for walls, particularly in

bathrooms. Beautiful, practical, and easy to clean
and maintain, tile walls are well suited to bathrooms,
cannot be damaged by water, though moisture can pass
through it. To protect the framing, install a waterproof
membrane, such as roofing felt or polyethylene
kitchens, mudrooms, and other hard-working spaces sheeting, between the framing members and the
in your home. cementboard. Be sure to tape and finish the seams
When shopping for tile, keep in mind that tiles between cementboard panels before laying the tile.
that are at least 6 × 6 inches are easier to install than
small tiles, because they require less cutting and cover
more surface area. larger tiles also have fewer grout
lines that must be cleaned and maintained. Check out Tools & Materials ▸
the selection of trim and specialty tiles and ceramic
accessories that are available to help you customize Tile-cutting tools Thinset tile mortar
your project. marker with latex additive
most wall tile is designed to have narrow grout Notched trowel Ceramic wall tile
lines (less than 1⁄8-inch wide) filled with unsanded mallet Ceramic trim tile
grout. Grout lines wider than 1⁄8-inch should be filled Grout float (as needed)
with sanded floor-tile grout. either type will last longer Grout sponge Tile grout with latex
if it contains, or is mixed with, a latex additive. To Soft cloth additive
prevent staining, it’s a good idea to seal your grout Small paintbrush Tub & tile caulk
after it fully cures, then once a year thereafter. or foam brush alkaline grout sealer
You can use standard drywall or water-resistant Caulk gun Tile spacers
drywall (called “greenboard”) as a backer for walls in Scrap 2 × 4 1
⁄8" shims
dry areas. in wet areas, install tile over cementboard. Carpet eye protection
made from cement and fiberglass, cementboard
Tile is a practical, easy-to-maintain choice for bathroom walls. The variety of colors, shapes, and sizes available ensures there’s a
tile out there for every design and application. Keep in mind that larger tiles are easier to install, maintain, and clean than smaller tiles.
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■ How to Set Wall Tile
1 2
Design the layout and mark the reference lines. Begin Mix a small batch of thinset mortar containing a
installation with the second row of tiles above the floor. If the latex additive. (Some mortar has additive mixed in by the
layout requires cut tiles for this row, mark and cut the tiles for manufacturer and some must have additive mixed in
the entire row at one time. separately.) Cover the back of the first tile with adhesive,
using a 1⁄4" notched trowel.
Variation: Spread adhesive on a small section of the wall, Beginning near the center of the wall, apply the tile to the
then set the tiles into the adhesive. Thinset adhesive sets fast, wall with a slight twisting motion, aligning it exactly with the
so work quickly if you choose this installation method. horizontal and vertical reference lines. When placing cut tiles,
position the cut edges where they will be least visible.
(continued)
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4 5
Continue installing tiles, working from the center to the As small sections of tile are completed, set the tile by
sides in a pyramid pattern. Keep the tiles aligned with the laying a scrap of 2 × 4 wrapped with carpet onto the tile and
reference lines. If the tiles are not self-spacing, use plastic rapping it lightly with a mallet. This embeds the tile solidly in
spacers inserted in the corner joints to maintain even grout the adhesive and creates a flat, even surface.
lines. The base row should be the last row of full tiles installed.
Cut tile as necessary.
6 7
Spacers
Tile marked for cutting
To mark bottom and edge row tiles for straight cuts, Install any trim tiles, such as the bullnose edge tiles shown
begin by taping 1⁄8" spacers against the surfaces below and to above, at border areas. Wipe away excess mortar along the top
the side of the tile. Position a tile directly over the last full tile edges of the edge tiles. Use bullnose and corner bullnose (with
installed, then place a third tile so the edge butts against the two adjacent bullnose edges) tiles at outside corners to cover
spacers. Trace the edge of the top tile onto the middle tile to the rough edges of the adjoining tiles.
mark it for cutting.
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8 9
Let mortar dry completely (12 to 24 hrs.), then mix a batch Wipe a damp grout sponge diagonally over the tile,
of grout containing latex additive. Apply the grout with a rinsing the sponge in cool water between wipes. Wipe each
rubber grout float, using a sweeping motion to force it deep area only once; repeated wiping can pull grout from the joints.
into the joints. Do not grout joints adjoining bathtubs, floors, or Allow the grout to dry for about 4 hrs., then use a soft cloth to
room corners. These will serve as expansion joints and will be buff the tile surface and remove any remaining grout film.
caulked later.
10 11
When the grout has cured completely, use a small Seal expansion joints at the floor and corners with silicone
foam brush to apply grout sealer to the joints, following the caulk. After the caulk dries, buff the tile with a soft, dry cloth.
manufacturer’s directions. Avoid brushing sealer on the tile
surfaces, and wipe up excess sealer immediately.
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Installing a Tub Tile Surround
W ith a nearly limitless selection of styles, colors,

and sizes of tile to choose from, a tub tile
surround replacement is an ideal home improvement
project. it can transform your bathroom into a luxurious 1 × 2 furring strips Grout
retreat, while increasing the value of your home. 1¼" cementboard screws Grout sponge
Tub tile surrounds can be broken down to three ½" cementboard Keyhole saw
basic components. The back wall is always tiled first. 2" fiberglass mesh tape latex tile caulk
The towel bar wall contains the optional posts and rod 4-ft. level Tape measure
used for hanging bath towels. lastly, the manifold wall 4-mil polyethylene sheeting Tarps
contains the valve stems, shower head, and tub spout. 6" joint knife Tile
Some tub surrounds are topped off with a low hanging Cardboard Tile-cutting tools
ceiling. if this is the case for your project, install the Caulk gun Trim tile
cementboard on the ceiling first and tile the ceiling drill Work gloves
after the walls have been tiled. Ceiling tile is often eye and ear protection Utility knife
installed on a diagonal pattern to avoid alignment Square notched trowel Screwdriver
issues with the wall tile joints. modified thinset mortar hammer
With proper care and maintenance, nearly any Stapler and staples Wood blocking
type of wall or floor tile can be used for a surround. Carbide scoring tool Tile spacers
Tiles that are rated vitrified or impervious, however, Carbide hole saw bit Small roller
absorb less moisture and are better suited for wet Grout release agent Caulk gun
areas. Unglazed tiles such as the tile installed in this Grout float
project may be used, but be sure to seal them well
with at least two coats of tile sealant.
While field tile is estimated and purchased by the
total number of square feet, trim tile such as bullnose Before
or cap tile is quantified in linear feet. if the tile you

select isn’t available with matching trim tile, consider
making your own using a wet tile saw fitted with a
bevel profile wheel. Through-body porcelain tile is an
excellent choice for making custom trim because the
surface color is uniform throughout the body of the
tile. most tiled surrounds include bath accessories
such as a soap dish and towel bar fixtures. Some tile
families offer these accessories in the same patterns
and colors. in other cases, you’ll have to choose a
similar—or perhaps contrasting—style or color. make
sure the thickness of the base for these accessories
matches the tile thickness.
To introduce a splash of color to an otherwise
plain tile surround, consider adding one or more bands
of contrasting tile into the installation. Some tile
product lines are available in a variety of solid colors,
allowing the installer to incorporate colored rows
of similarly sized tiles into the installation without
having to make special adjustments to the layout. For
added effect, you can even match the trim color to
the colored bands of tile or sprinkle some decorative A perfectly functional alcove bathtub surround (above)
accent tiles throughout the tile installation. can be utterly transformed with tile (page opposite).
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After
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■ How to Install a Tiled Tub Surround
1 2
Remove the old fittings. To begin, remove the tub spout, Cut out old surround panels or tiles. A keyhole or drywall
faucet handles, and shower head. Then, slice and remove the saw can be used to safely cut through the drywall at the
caulk from the corner joints. Existing ceramic fittings such as junction where it meets the surround. Use the edge of the tile
soap dishes should also be removed to prevent them from or panel as a guide, taking care to feel for and avoid plumbing
falling later and damaging the tub. Use a utility knife to remove or other unseen obstacles hidden within the wall cavity.
old caulk, grout, and adhesive from around the lip of the tub.
Finally, lay protective cardboard over the exposed surfaces of
the tub and drape tarps over cabinets and toilets.
3 4
Remove any drywall in the new tile installation area. This Install a moisture barrier. Fasten 4-mil clear polyethylene
will need to be replaced with cementboard. Remove all sheeting to the studs using staples. This step may be omitted if
nails and debris from the framing members. If necessary, a waterproofing membrane will be applied over the surface of
install additional wood blocking to accommodate the the cementboard later.
cementboard installation.
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5 6
Install 1⁄2"-thick cementboard horizontally on the back Fill the gaps between cementboard panels with thinset
wall first, and then on the side walls. Fasten the panels to the mortar, overlapping at least 2 to 3" on each side of the joint.
studs using 1¼" cementboard screws. To make straight cuts, Center and embed 2"-wide alkaline-resistant fiberglass tape
score the panel using a carbide scoring tool, then snap the over the joint and lightly skim thinset over the joint.
panel along the scored line. To make hole cuts for plumbing
protrusions, use a drill fitted with a carbide hole saw bit.
7 8
Dry-lay tile for your surround on a flat surface, inserting Draw horizontal reference lines on the wall using a 4-ft.
1
⁄8" spacers between the tiles to set the gap. Lay out enough level to make sure the lines are level. Extend these reference
for roughly half the surround height and then measure the lines to each side wall. Measure down from the horizontal lines
length of the dry-laid row to find the actual height of the tiles to the tub at several points on all walls to make sure the tub
on the wall. deck and the lines are parallel. If they aren’t, re-measure from
the point where the tub deck is highest and transfer level lines
all around from that point.
(continued)
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9 10
Draw a vertical reference line down the center of the back Set the first tiles. Mix a small batch of thinset mortar. Apply
wall. To temporarily support the weight of the tile that will be the thinset using a ¼" square-notched trowel held at a 45º
installed above, align and fasten 1 × 2 furring strips just below angle. Spread the adhesive within the guidelines on the wall,
the horizontal reference lines located in the midsection of the aligning the ridges of the setting bed in a horizontal direction.
tub surround. Install tile on the back wall first, keeping tile aligned to the
centered guide line.
11 12
Install two or three rows of tiles—here, a row of To mark tiles for straight cuts, place a full tile directly
decorative accent tiles is installed as well. on top of the field tile that is installed adjacent to the
void. Position another full tile over the void, abutting the
overhanging edge of the tile against a 1⁄8" spacer. Trace the
edge of this tile to mark the underlying tile for cutting.
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13 14
Complete the upper sections. After the top portion of the Mark and cut tiles to fit around the valve stems and water
back wall is tiled, fill in the upper portions of each side wall. pipes as required to install your tub spout, diverter, and shower
Leave out tiles as needed to accommodate tiled-in accessories head (often, shower heads are installed above the tiles). Finish
such as a soap dish or towel rod. tiling the lower portions of the tile installation, then allow to dry for
24 hrs. Tip: Tape tiles together to prevent slippage while they dry.
15 16
Coat the tile surfaces with a sealer or other grout-release Grout the tiles (see page 141). To apply grout, hold the grout
agent if they are not glazed by the manufacturer. This float at an angle and force the mortar into the joints, skimming
treatment will prevent grout from getting into places where it excess grout from the tile surface with each pass. Wipe tile
should not go. clean using a damp grout sponge. After grouting, buff tile
surfaces with a soft cloth to remove haze. Install fittings and
hardware, and caulk around the tub deck.
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Tiled Tub Apron
T he aprons that are cast into alcove bathtubs

simplify the tub installation, but they often come
up a bit short in the style department. one way to
improve the appearance of a plain apron and create Stud finder Tile
the look of a built-in tub is simply to build and tile Tape measure Thinset mortar
a short wall in front of the tub. all it takes is a little Circular saw Carbide paper
simple framing and a few square feet of tile. drill or wet stone
The basic strategy is to construct a 2 × 4 stub laser or Wide painter’s tape
wall in front of the tub apron and then tile the top carpenter’s level Grout
and front of the wall. one design option is to try and Tile cutting tools Silicone caulk
match existing tile, but it’s unlikely you’ll be able to Utility knife Grout sealer
find the exact tile unless it’s relatively new. Choosing Grout float Notched trowel
complementary or contrasting tile is usually a better Grout sponge rubbing alcohol
bet. Specialty tile, such as listellos, pencils, and Buff rag Caulk gun
accent tile, can have a big impact without breaking the Foam brush Tile spacers
bank because you’re covering such a small area. ask 2 × 4 lumber eye protection
your tile retailer to direct you to families of tile with Construction
multiple shapes and accessories. adhesive
Be sure to include a waterproof backer Screws (21⁄2", 3")
(cementboard is recommended) and get a good grout Cementboard
seal, since the stub wall will be in a wet area.
An ordinary tub apron does little to inspire in a bathroom, but a tiled apron wall is a fine way to add interest.
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■ How to Build a Tiled Tub Deck
1 2
Measure the distance of the tub rim from the floor, as well Cut the 2 × 4s to length for the base plate and top plate
as the distance from one wall to the other at the ends of the (581⁄2" long as shown). Cut the studs (five 11" pieces as shown).
tub. Allowing for the thickness of the tiles, create a layout for Set the base plate on edge and lay out the studs, spacing them
the project and draw a detailed plan, spacing the studs 16" 16" on-center. Make sure the first and last studs are perfectly
apart on center. parallel with the end of the base plate, then drive two 21⁄2"
screws through the base plate and each stud.
3 4
Draw a placement line on the floor using a permanent Drive two or three 2½" screws through the studs and into
marker. Spread a generous bead of construction adhesive on the room walls at each end of the stub wall. If the stub wall
the bottom of the base plate. Align the base plate with the does not happen to line up with any wall studs, at least drive
placement line and set it into position. Put concrete blocks two 3" deck screws toenail style through the stub wall and into
or other weights between the studs to anchor the base the room wall sole plate.
plate to the flooring and let the adhesive cure according to
(continued)
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5 6
Set the top plate on the stub wall and attach it using two Cut cementboard to fit the front (141⁄2" as shown).
21⁄2" screws for each stud. Offset the screws slightly to increase With the factory-finished edge of the cementboard at the
the strength of the assembly. The top of the stub wall should top of the wall, attach the cementboard to the studs using
be 21⁄2" below the top of the tub. cementboard screws.
7 8
Cut cementboard to fit the top of the stub wall (31⁄2"). Design the layout and mark reference lines (see page
With the factory-finished edge facing the tub edge, attach the 139) on the wall. Draw horizontal and vertical reference
cementboard to the top plate using cementboard screws. lines for the corner tile (used to transition from vertical to
horizontal at the top stub wall edge) and the coved base tile
(if your project includes them). Lay out tile along the floor,
including spacers.
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9 10
Start tiling at the bottom of the wall. Lay out the bottom Beginning at the center intersection of the vertical field
row of tile on the floor, using spacers if necessary. Adjust the area, apply mortar using a notched trowel to spread it evenly.
layout to make end tiles balanced in size. Mark and cut the Cover as much area as required for a few field tiles. Install the
tiles as necessary, and then smooth any sharp edges with field tiles, keeping the grout lines in alignment.
carbide paper or a wet stone. Mix a small batch of thinset
mortar and install the base tiles by buttering the backs
with mortar.
11 12
Finish installing the field tiles up to the horizontal line Apply thinset mortar to the backs of the accent tiles and
marking the accent tile location. install them in a straight line. The grout lines will likely not align
with the field tile grout lines.
(continued)
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13 14
Dry-lay corner tiles to create a rounded transition at the Fill in the top course of field tile on the wall face, between
top edge of the wall. Install these before you install the the accent tiles and the corner tiles. If you have planned well
field tiles in the top row of the wall face or on the top of the you won’t need to trim the field tiles to fit. If you need to cut
stub wall (corner tiles are virtually impossible to cut if your tiles to create the correct wall height, choose the tiles in the
measurements are off). Dry-lay the top row of tiles. Mark and first row of field tiles.
cut tile if necessary.
15 16
Remove the dry-laid row of tile along the top of the wall. Mix a batch of grout and use a grout float to force it into the
Shield the edge of the tub with painter’s tape, then spread joints between the tiles. Keep the space between the top field
thinset adhesive on the wall and begin to lay tile. Keep the tiles and the tub clear of grout to create space for a bead of
joints of the field tiles on the top aligned with the grout joints silicone caulk between the tub and tile.
of the field tile on the face of the wall.
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17 18
Remove excess grout and clean the tile using a damp After 24 hours, clean the area where the tile and tub meet
sponge. Rinse the sponge often. with rubbing alcohol, then put tape on the edge of the tub
and the face of the tile. Apply clear silicone caulk into the gap,
overfilling it slightly.
19 20
Smooth the caulk with a moistened plastic straw or a When the grout has cured completely (consult
moistened fingertip to create an even finish. Make sure this manufacturer’s directions), apply grout sealer to the joints.
spot is well-sealed, as it is a prime spot for water to penetrate
into the tub wall.
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This unique room feature is a showcase for beautiful tile work. A niche can be added to just about any wall, including a room
divider wall that is built specifically to support the niche.
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Tile Wall Niche
A wall niche—a small recessed area between

studs—provides ideal display space and creates
a focal point in a room. Typical recessed niches
require that you cut into the wall, which can be a little Tape measure rubber mallet
intimidating. an easier answer is to build outward Stud finder 11⁄4" screws
from the wall, as we do here. Circular saw Construction adhesive
The “columns” that form the sides of our niche are drill Wide painter’s tape
plain wood boxes that are built in a workshop and then long driver bit Sheet plastic
installed. Quartz tile is attached to the columns after or bit extender Tile
installation, and contrasting wall tiles are added to the Bar clamps Thinset mortar
wallspace between the columns. Finally, glass shelves pry bar Tile spacers
are installed between the tiled columns to complete hammer Grout
the project. The finished look is textural, natural, laser or carpenter’s latex additive
and sophisticated. level and chalk line Shelf pins (4 per shelf)
When designing your project, consider the awl Teflon tape
size of the tile and grout lines to create a plan that
1
⁄4" carbide-tip bit Glass shelves
requires the fewest possible cut tiles. if it’s not
1
⁄4" notched trowel Grout sealer
possible to complete an area (such as a column or the Grout float lumber (1 × 2, 1 × 6,
background) with full tile, plan to cut equal-size tiles Grout sponge 1 × 8)
for each side so the full tiles are centered. if it is not Buff rag Caulk gun
possible for you to attach both boxes to wall studs, use Foam brush Tile-cutting tools
sturdy hollow wall anchors or toggle bolts to secure Needlenose pliers eye protection
one of the boxes.
■ How to Build a Tiled Wall Niche

1 2
Use a stud finder to locate the studs in the area and mark If there are baseboards in the construction area, remove
them. Measure the area and draw a plan on graph paper. them using a pry bar and hammer. Tape down sheet plastic in
the construction area, as close to the wall as possible.
(continued)
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3 4 5
Cut four 1 × 6 and four 1 × 8s to length Place one 1 × 8 (one with pilot holes) Complete the box by adding a 1 × 8
(108 inches for our project). On two of on the work surface and position a 1 × 6 (with ¾" holes in it) to the opposite
the 1 × 8s, drill 3⁄4-inch holes centered on edge beside it. Clamp the boards side of the assembly and fasten it as
every 10" down the length of each together and drive a 11⁄4" screw every 6" described. Build a second, identical box.
board. On the remaining two 1 × 8s, drill to join them. Put a second 1 × 6 on the
pilot holes centered every 10". work surface and clamp to assembly as
shown. Drive screws every 6 in. to join
the pieces.
6 7 8
Shoot a vertical line on the wall Mark the reference lines (see page Mix a small batch of thinset mortar.
with the laser level. Spread a bead of 139). If necessary, tack a 1 × 2 batten in Spread the mortar on a small section of
construction adhesive on the back position to support the second row of wall, then set the tiles into it. If tile is not
(1 × 8 with pilot holes) of the first box. tile above the floor. If tiles have to be cut self-spacing, insert spacers as you work.
With a helper, align the outside edge of for this row, mark and cut all of them. When all other tile is set, remove the
the box. Using a long magnetic driver battens and set the bottom row.
bit or bit extender, drive an 11⁄4" screw
through each pilot hole (and into stud).
Install the second box on the other side
of the niche. Note: When you cannot hit
a stud, use toggle bolts.
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9 10
Repeat Step 8 to set tile on first one box and then the other. If there are spacers between tiles, use needlenose pliers
Let the mortar cure, according to manufacturer’s instructions. to remove them. Grout the tile in the center of the niche.
If necessary, grout the tile on the columns. Let the grout set
and then wipe away excess with a damp sponge.
11 12
On the inside edges of each column, measure and mark Wrap the peg of each shelf pin with Teflon tape. (The
the location for the shelf pins. Use a laser level to check and tape will seal the hole and keep moisture from getting behind
adjust the marks. Using an awl and hammer, create a dimple at the tile.) Tap a pin into each hole, using a rubber mallet if
each mark, then use a carbide-tipped 1⁄4" bit to drill the holes. necessary. Position the glass shelves.
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Retrofit Accent Strip
M any of us live with tile we don’t particularly like.

it’s easy to see why: builders and remodelers
often install simple, neutral tile in an effort not to put
on the project wall. if you are tiling two or more walls,
regrout the whole room.
This project is easier if you don’t have to cut any
off future buyers. older homes sometimes have tile existing tile. Cutting tile is not especially difficult if
that’s not quite vintage, but certainly no longer stylish. you do, but it’s always best to know what you’re getting
or, a previous owner might just have had different into before committing to a project.
taste. Because tile is so long-lasting, new styles and
trends often overtake it and make it look dated. here’s
a bit of good news: there’s a choice beyond simply living
with it or tearing out perfectly good tile to start over. Tools & Materials ▸
removing a section of boring tile and replacing
it with some decorative accent tile can transform Tape measure Grease pencil
a plain wall into one that makes a unique design Grout saw masking tape
statement. and while a project like this requires a bit Grout scraper Safety glasses
of demolition, it can be done with very little mess and Flathead screwdriver Wallboard screws
fuss. Because it involves breaking the seal of the wall Straightedge Cementboard
surface, it’s a better choice for a tiled wall that gets Utility knife Thinset mortar
little exposure to water (as opposed to a shower wall or drill mosaic medallion
tub deck). 1
⁄4" notched trowel or decorative tile
The new tile you install will need to be grouted, Grout float Tile spacers
and the new grout will undoubtedly be a different Grout sponge Grout
color. The only way to blend the new tile into the old Buff rag dust mask
is to regrout the entire area. if the project involves only Needlenose pliers Wallboard tape
one wall and the same grout color is still available, it drop cloth
is necessary to remove the grout surrounding the tile
■ How to Embellish a Tiled Wall

1 2
Measure the decorative tiles and draw a detailed plan for Protect the floor with a drop cloth. So you can patch
your project. Indicate a removal area at least one tile larger the tile backer, you’ll need to remove a section of tile that’s a
than the space required. If it will be necessary to cut tile, create minimum of one tile all around the project installation area.
a plan that will result in symmetrical tiles. Using a grease pencil, mark the tiles to be removed, according
to the plan drawing. Put masking tape on the edges of the
bordering tiles that will remain to keep them from being
scratched or otherwise damaged by the grout saw. If you will
be reinstalling some of the old tiles, protect them as well.
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3 4 5
Wearing eye protection and a dust With a flathead screwdriver, pry up Draw cutting lines on the drywall that
mask, use a grout saw to cut grooves in the edges of the tile at the center of the are at least 1⁄2" inside the borders of the
all of the grout lines in the removal area. removal area. Wiggle the blade toward area where you removed tiles. Using a
If the grout lines are soft this will only the center of the tile and pry up to pop straightedge and utility knife, carefully
take one or two passes. If the grout is it off. (For large areas, see page 131 for cut out the old drywall. Note: If the tile
hard, it may take several. Using a grout another removal method.) comes off very easily and the tile backer
scraper, remove any remaining material is not damaged, you may be able to
in the joint. Angle the tools toward the scrape it clean and reuse it.
open area to protect the tile.
6 7 8
Cut cementboard strips that are Cut a cementboard patch to Cover the edges with wallboard tape.
slightly longer than the width of the fit the opening in the tile backer. Mix a small batch of thinset mortar.
opening. Insert the strips into the Place the patch in the opening and Apply the mortar using a notched trowel
opening and orient them so the ends drive wallboard screws through the to spread it evenly.
are pressed against the back surface of cementboard and into the backer strips.
the tile backer. Drive wallboard screws Also drive screws at any stud locations.
through the edges of the old tile backer
and into the strips to hold them in place.
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9 10 11
Gently press the accent tiles into Use a damp sponge to soak the Mix a batch of grout and fill the
the adhesive, smoothing it from the protective sheet on the tile. Once wet, joints between tile on the entire
center toward the edges. Let the mortar slide the sheet off and throw it away. wall, one section at a time. Clean
cure as directed. the tile with a damp sponge (inset).
Occasionally rinse the sponge in
cool water.
Design Suggestions ▸
Inserts add interest, texture, and color to tile This stone insert adds a contemporary flair to a simple
designs. This piece combines tumbled stone with marble tile design.
in a delicate floral motif.
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Fireplace Surround
T ile dresses a fireplace surround in style—any

style you like. From simple ceramic to elegant cut
stone to handmade art tile, anything goes. as long as
mortar to even out any irregularities. To rough up
painted surfaces, sand them lightly before beginning
the project.
it’s sturdy enough to withstand significant swings in The tile shown here is flush with the face of the
temperature, almost any tile will work. firebox, which then supports it during installation. if
although the project shown here starts with necessary, tack level battens in place to support the
unfinished wallboard, you can tile over any level weight of your tile during installation.
surface that isn’t glossy. if you’re tiling over old You can finish the edges of the surround with
tile or brick, go over the surface with a grinder, wood cap rail trim, as shown here, bullnose tile, or
then apply a thin coat of latex-reinforced thinset other trim tile.

level Tile spacers Buildup strips Carpet scrap
drill masking tape eye protection mallet
hammer Grout Cementboard Trim (1 × 2, 1 × 3, 1 × 4)
Nail set Cap rail trim Utility knife 6d and 4d finish nails
Notched trowel Wood putty Wallboard pneumatic brad nailer
Grout float Sponge Joint compound Sander
2 × 4 lumber Tape measure Fiberglass seam tape Wood-finishing materials
mantel Tile-cutting tools Wallboard knife latex-reinforced thinset mortar
Tile Buff cloth Scrap 2 × 4
Because tile is not flammable it makes a beautiful first line of defense around a fireplace opening.
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■ How to Tile a Fireplace Surround
To install the mantel, measure up
1 from the floor and mark the height of
the support cleat. Use a level to draw
a level line through the mark. Mark the
stud locations just above the level line.
Position the cleat on the line, centered
between the frame sides, and drill a pilot
hole at each stud location. Fasten the
cleat to the studs with screws provided by
the manufacturer.
Mantel support cleat
Paint the areas of wallboard that won’t

2 be tiled. Finish the mantel as desired, then
fit it over the support cleat and center it.
Drill pilot holes for 6d finish nails through
the top of the mantel, about 3⁄4" from the
back edge. Secure the mantel to the cleat
with four nails. Set the nails with a nail set,
fill the holes with wood putty, then touch
up the finish.
Dry-fit the tile around the front of the

3 fireplace. You can lay tile over the black
front face, but do not cover the glass or
any portion of the grills. If you’re using tile
without spacer lugs, use spacers to set the
gaps (at least 1⁄8" for floor tile). Mark the
perimeter of the tile area and make any
other layout marks that will help with the
installation. Pre-cut tiles.
(continued)
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Mask off around the tile, then use a
4 notched trowel to apply latex-reinforced
thinset mortar to the wall, spreading it
evenly just inside the perimeter lines. Set
the tiles into the mortar, aligning them
with the layout marks, and press firmly
to create a good bond. Install spacers as
you work. Install all of the tile, then let the
mortar set completely.
Mix a batch of grout and spread it over

5 the tiles with a rubber grout float. Drag the
float across the joints diagonally, tilting it at
a 45° angle. Make another pass to remove
excess grout. Wait 10 to 15 minutes, then
wipe away excess grout with a damp
sponge, rinsing frequently. Let the grout
dry for one hour, then polish the tiles with
a dry cloth. Let the grout dry completely.
Cut pieces of cap rail trim to fit around

6 Cap rail trim
the tile, mitering the ends. If the tile is
thicker than the trim recesses, install
buildup strips behind the trim using finish
nails. Finish the trim to match the mantel.
Buildup strip Drill pilot holes and nail the trim in place
with 4d finish nails. Set the nails with a
nail set. Fill the holes with wood putty and
touch up the finish.
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■ How to Install a Tile Surround with a Wood Border
1
A lovely ceramic tile and cherry fireplace surround Cut cementboard into strips equal in width to the
frames a ventless gas fireplace in this basment rec room. dimension of your tiled surround and attach them to the 2 × 4
nailers bordering the framed firebox opening. It is generally a
good idea to predrill for cementboard screws, especially with
narrower strips.
2 3
Patch around the cementboard, if necessary, with regular Apply joint compound and fiberglass seam tape over
wallboard. If you are installing the surround in a damp area, seams and cover screwheads with compound (see pages 132
such as a basement, use moisture-resistant wallboard. to 133). Sand the compound smooth.
(continued)
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4 5
Touch up paint around the tile installation area as needed. Apply a mortar bed for the tile surround using a notched
trowel (a 1⁄4" square-notch trowel is typical but check the
recommendations on the thinset package label). Apply only as
much mortar as you can tile in about 10 min. Treating each leg
of the square surround separately is a good strategy.
6 7
Press the surround tiles into the mortar bed and set them Apply dark-tinted grout to the tiles using a grout float.
by pressing with a short piece of 2 × 4 wrapped in a soft cloth. Let the grout harden slightly and then buff off the residue
Most tiles (12 × 12 glass tiles in a mosaic pattern are shown with a soft, clean cloth. For more information on grouting,
here) have spacing nubs cast into the edges so setting the see page 141.
gaps between tiles or tile sheets is automatic. If your tiles do
not have spacing nubs, use plastic tile spacers available at
your tile store. Let the thinset mortar dry overnight once you’ve
finished setting the tiles. See page 26 if you need to cut tiles.
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8 9
Begin adding surround trim. Here, 1 × 4 cherry casing is Add built-up head casing. The head casing should overhang
being attached to wall stud locations. The side casings should be the side casings by an inch or so. We used a built-up technique
slightly off the floor (if you have not installed flooring yet account to add some depth and profile to the head casing. First, attach
for the floor covering thickness) and butted against the tile a full-width 1 × 4 to the wall. Then, install a 1 × 3 so the ends
surround. If you have planned properly, there will be wall studs and top are flush with the ends and top of the 1 × 4. Finally,
behind the casing. Note: We chose 1 × 4 cherry because it is install a cherry 1 × 2 in the same manner.
attractive, but also because you can usually buy it dimensioned,
planed, and sanded on all sides at the lumber yard. If you have
woodworking equipment, use any lumber you like.
10 11
Cut and install the mantel board. We used another piece Finish-sand all the cherry and then apply a light wood
of 1 × 4 cherry the same length as the head casings, but if you stain. After the stain dries, topcoat with a cherry-tone or light
have access to woodworking tools consider a thicker board for mahogany wipe-on varnish that will even out the uneven
a little more presence. Or, face-glue two 1 × 4s together. coloration typical with cherry. Fill nail holes with cherry-tinted
wood putty.
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Countertops
T ile countertops are a cook’s dream—resistant
to heat and stains, easy to clean, and extremely
durable. Fortunately, the process of building one is
much easier than most people would imagine. The
projects included in this chapter lead you through
constructing the countertop itself as well as tiling
it, and all the way through setting tile on a bi-level
countertop and backsplash.
Edge treatments are integral parts of a countertop
design. Consider trim tile, wood, and other materials
for your edges and create a layout that complements
the treatment you choose.
When designing a countertop, remember that
larger tiles produce fewer grout lines to keep clean
and more stable surfaces. For work areas, flat tiles
are better than tiles with rounded or beveled edges
because bowls and pans rock on rounded edges.
Before selecting natural stone tile for countertops,
research your choice carefully. Some natural stone
stains and scratches easily and requires more
maintenance than you might wish to invest in a
countertop. Be especially careful about choosing
porous stone, which is difficult to keep clean in a
kitchen or bathroom environment.
In this chapter:
• Countertops • Tiled Backsplash
• Tile Countertop • Tiled Island
• Granite Tile Countertop
■ 169
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Tile Countertop
C eramic and porcelain tile remain popular choices

for countertops and backsplashes for a number of
reasons: these materials are available in a wide range
is also an acceptable substrate. You can purchase
tiles made specifically to serve as backsplashes and
front edging. While the color and texture may match,
of sizes, styles, and colors, are durable and repairable, these tiles usually come in only one length, making
and some tile—not all—is reasonably priced. With it difficult to align grout lines with the field tiles. You
careful planning, tile is also easy to install, making a can solve this problem by cutting your own edging and
custom tile countertop a great do-it-yourself project. backsplash tiles from field tiles.
The best tile for most countertops is glazed
ceramic or porcelain floor tile. Glazed tile is better
than unglazed because of its stain resistance, and
floor tile is better than wall tile because it is thicker Tools & Materials ▸
and more durable. While glaze protects tile from
stains, the porous grout between tiles is still quite Tape measure 4-mil polyethylene
vulnerable. To minimize staining, use a grout that Circular saw sheeting
contains a latex additive or mix your own grout using a drill with masonry bit packing tape
liquid latex additive. after the grout cures fully, apply utility knife ½" cementboard
a quality grout sealer, and reapply the sealer once a Straightedge 1¼" deck screws
year thereafter. also, choosing larger tiles reduces Stapler Fiberglass mesh tape
the number of grout lines to maintain. although the drywall knife Thinset mortar
selection is a bit limited, if you choose 13 × 13-inch Framing square Grout
floor tile, you can span from the front to the back edge Notched trowel Silicone caulk
of the countertop with a single seam. Grout float Silicone grout sealer
The countertop in this project has a substrate Sponge Cementboard screws
of 3⁄4-inch exterior-grade plywood that’s cut to fit and Corner bracket metal ruler
fastened to the cabinets. The plywood is covered with Caulk gun Eye protection
a layer of plastic (for a moisture barrier) and a layer of Ceramic tile Wood scraps
1
⁄2-inch-thick cementboard. The overall thickness of Tile spacers Wet tile saw
the finished countertop is about 11⁄2 inches. Two layers ¾" (CdX) plywood (available for rent)
of 3⁄4-inch exterior-grade plywood without cementboard
Ceramic or porcelain tile makes a durable countertop that is heat-resistant and relatively easy for a DIYer to create. By using
larger tiles, you minimize the number of grout lines (and the cleaning that goes with them).
170 ■ ThE ComplETE GuidE To CEramiC TilE
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Backsplash
Bullnose tiles
Grout
Field tiles
Thinset adhesive layer
Fiberglass wallboard tape Cementboard

Cementboard edge strip
Plastic sheeting
Thinset fill layer Plywood core
Plywood buildup strip (optional)
A ceramic tile countertop made with wall or floor tile starts with a core of ¾" exterior-grade plywood that’s covered with a
moisture barrier of 4-mil polyethylene sheeting. Half-inch cementboard is screwed to the plywood, and the edges are capped with
cementboard and finished with fiberglass mesh tape and thinset mortar. Tiles for edging and backsplashes may be bullnose or
trimmed from the factory edges of field tiles.
■ Options for Backsplashes & Countertop Edges
Hardwood edging
Cove tile
Standard
tile (cut)
Cove tile
V-cap edge tile

Cementboard
Plywood
Backsplashes can be made from cove tile attached to the Edge options include V-cap edge tile and hardwood strip
wall at the back of the countertop. You can use the tile alone edging. V-cap tiles have raised and rounded corners that create
or build a shelf-type backsplash using the same construction a ridge around the countertop perimeter—good for containing
as for the countertop. Attach the plywood backsplash to the spills and water. V-cap tiles must be cut with a wet saw.
plywood core of the countertop. Wrap the front face and all Hardwood strips should be prefinished with at least three coats
edges of the plywood backsplash with cementboard before of polyurethane finish. Attach the strips to the plywood core so
laying tile. the top of the wood will be flush with the faces of the tiles.
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Tips for Laying Out Tile ▸
• You can lay tile over a laminate countertop that’s of field tile is placed against this batten. For bullnose
square, level, and structurally sound. Use a belt tiles, fasten a batten that’s the same thickness as the
sander with 60- or 80-grit sandpaper to rough up the edging tile, plus 1⁄8" for mortar thickness, to the face
surface before setting the tiles. The laminate cannot of the countertop so the top is flush with the top of
have a no-drip edge. the counter. Bullnose tiles should be aligned with
If you’re using a new substrate and need to the outside edge of the batten. For wood edge trim,
remove your existing countertop, make sure the base fasten a 1 × 2 batten to the face of the countertop so
cabinets are level front to back, side to side, and with the top edge is above the top of the counter. The tiles
adjoining cabinets. Unscrew a cabinet from the wall are installed against the batten.
and use shims on the floor or against the wall to level • Before installing any tile, lay out the tiles in a dry run
it, if necessary. using spacers. If your counter is L-shaped, start at the
• Installing battens along the front edge of the corner and work outward. Otherwise, start the layout
countertop helps ensure the first row of tile is at a sink to ensure equally sized cuts on both sides of
perfectly straight. For V-cap tiles, fasten a 1 × 2 batten the sink. If necessary, shift your starting point so you
along the reference line using screws. The first row don’t end up cutting tile segments that are too narrow.
13 × 13" tile 12 × 12" tile 6 × 6" tile 5 × 5" tile Mosaic tile
The bigger the tile the fewer the grout lines. If you want a standard 25"-deep countertop, the only way to get there
without cutting tiles is to use mosaic strips or 1" tile. With 13 × 13" tile, you need to trim 1" off the back tile but have only
one grout line front to back. As you decrease the size of your tiles, the number of grout lines increases.
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■ How to Build a Tile Countertop
1 Overhang here
Overhang here
Overhang here
Determine the size of the plywood substrate by measuring across the top of the cabinets. The finished top should overhang
the drawer fronts by at least ¼". Be sure to account for the thickness of the cementboard, adhesive, and tile when deciding how
large to make the overhang. Cut the substrate to size from ¾" plywood using a circular saw. Also make any cutouts for sinks and
other fixtures.
2 3
Corner bracket
Set the plywood substrate on top of the cabinets, Cut pieces of cementboard to size, then mark and
and attach it with screws driven through the cabinet corner make the cutout for the sink. Dry-fit them on the plywood
brackets. The screws should not be long enough to go through core with the rough sides of the panels facing up. Leave a
the top of the substrate. 1
⁄8" gap between the cementboard sheets and a ¼" gap along
the perimeter.
(continued)
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4
Option: Cut cementboard using a straightedge and utility Lay the plastic moisture barrier over the plywood
knife or a cementboard cutter with a carbide tip. Hold the substrate, draping it over the edges. Tack it in place with a few
straightedge along the cutting line, and score the board several staples. Overlap seams in the plastic by 6", and seal them with
times with the knife. Bend the piece backward to break it along packing tape.
the scored line. Back-cut to finish.
5 6
Lay the cementboard pieces rough-side up on top of the Tape all cementboard joints with fiberglass mesh tape.
moisture barrier and attach them with cementboard screws Apply three layers of tape along the front edge where the
driven every 6". Drill pilot holes using a masonry bit, and horizontal cementboard sheets meet the cementboard edging.
make sure all screw heads are flush with the surface. Wrap
the countertop edges with 1¼"-wide cementboard strips, and
attach them to the core with cementboard screws.
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7 8
Fill all the gaps and cover all of the tape with a layer of Determine the required width of the edge tiles. Lay a field
thinset mortar. Feather out the mortar with a drywall knife to tile onto the tile base so it overhangs the front edge by ½".
create a smooth, flat surface. Hold a metal ruler up to the underside of the tile and measure
the distance from it to the bottom of the subbase. The edge
tiles should be cut to this width (the gap for the grout line
causes the edge tile to extend the subbase that conceals
it completely).
9 10
Top edge
3 1⁄ 2”
Backsplash
Edge tile 1 1⁄ 2”
Backsplash 3 1⁄ 2”
Top edge
Cut edge tiles to the determined width using a wet saw. Cut tiles for the backsplash. The backsplash tiles (3½" wide
It’s worth renting a quality wet saw for tile if you don’t own in our project) should be cut with a factory edge on each tile
one. Floor tile is thick and difficult to cut with a hand cutter that will be oriented upward when they’re installed. You can
(especially porcelain tiles). make efficient use of your tiles by cutting edge tiles from the
center area of the tiles you cut to make the backsplash.
(continued)
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11
Sink cutout area
Dry-fit tiles on the countertop to find the layout that works best. Once the layout is established, make marks along the vertical
and horizontal rows. Draw reference lines through the marks and use a framing square to make sure the lines are perpendicular.
Small Floor Tiles & Bullnose Edging ▸
Lay out tiles and spacers in a dry run. Adjust the Place the first row of field tile against the edge tile,
starting lines, if necessary. If using battens, lay the field separating the tile with spacers. Lay out the remaining
tile flush with the battens, then apply the edge tile. rows of tile. Adjust the starting lines if necessary to create
Otherwise, install the edging first. If the countertop has an a layout using the smallest number of cut tiles.
inside corner, start there by installing a ready-made inside
corner or by cutting a 45° miter in the edge tile to make
your own inside corner.
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12 13
Use a 3⁄8" square notched trowel to apply a layer of thinset Set the first tile into the mortar. Hold a piece of the edge
mortar to the cementboard. Apply enough for two or three against the countertop edge as a guide to show you exactly
tiles, starting at one end. Hold the trowel at roughly a 30° angle how much the tile should overhang the edge.
and try not to overwork the mortar or remove too much.
14
Cut all the back tiles for the layout to fit ( you’ll need to Option: To maintain even grout lines, some beginning tilers
remove about 1" of a 13 × 13" tile) before you begin the actual insert plus-sign-shaped plastic spacers at the joints. This is less
installation. Set the back tiles into the thinset, maintaining the likely to be useful with large tiles like those shown here, but it
gap for grout lines created by the small spacer nubs cast into is effective. Many tiles today feature built-in spacing lugs, so
the tiles. If your tiles have no spacer nubs, see the option. the spacers are of no use. Make sure to remove the spacers
before the thinset sets. If you leave them in place they will
corrupt your grout lines.
(continued)
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15
Tip: To mark border tiles for cutting, allow space for the To create a support ledge for the edge tiles, prop pieces
backsplash tiles, grout, and mortar by placing a tile against the of 2 × 4 underneath the front edge of the substrate overhang
back wall. Set another tile (A) on top of the last full tile in the using wood scraps to prop the ledge tightly up against
field, then place a third tile (B) over tile (A) and hold it against the substrate.
the upright tile. Mark and cut tile (A) and install it with the cut
edge toward the wall. Finish filling in your field tiles.
16 17
Apply a thick layer of thinset to the backside of the Butter each backsplash tile and press it into
edge tile with your trowel. This is called “buttering” and it is place, doing your best to keep all of the grout lines
easier and neater than attempting to trowel adhesive onto the aligned. Allow the mortar to set according to the
countertop edge. Press the tiles into position so they are flush manufacturer’s recommendations.
with the leading edges of the field tiles.
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18 19
Mix a batch of grout to complement the tile (keeping in Let the grout dry until a light film is created on the
mind that darker grout won’t look dirty as quickly as lighter countertop surface, then wipe the excess grout off with a
grout). Apply the grout with a grout float. sponge and warm, clean water. See grout manufacturer’s
instructions on drying tiles and polishing.
20 21
Run a bead of clear silicone caulk along the joint between Wait at least one week and then seal the grout lines with
the backsplash and the wall. Install your sink and faucet after a penetrating grout sealer. This is important to do. Sealing
the grout has dried (and before you use the sink, if possible). the tiles themselves is not a good idea unless you are using
unglazed tiles (a poor choice for countertops, however).
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Granite Tile Countertop
S olid granite countertops are hugely popular in

kitchen décor today, and for good reason: they are
beautiful, sturdy, and natural. however, they are also
look. Granite tile can be installed over laminate
countertop (not post-form) if you remove the nosing
and backsplash first. The laminate substrate must be
expensive and nearly impossible for a do-it-yourselfer in good condition with no peeling or water damage.
to install. There is a way, however, for an enterprising
diY-er to achieve the look and feel of natural granite,
but at a fraction of the price: granite tile countertops.
You have two basic product options with granite Tools & Materials ▸
tile. Standard granite tiles consist of field tiles and
edge tiles with square edges and are installed just 5
⁄8" exterior grade plywood Jigsaw
like normal ceramic or porcelain tiles and finished ¼" cementboard Compass
with thin edge tiles to create the nosing. You can use Cementboard screws utility knife
granite tiles that are installed with front tiles that Granite tiles Straightedge
feature an integral bullnose that better imitates the Tile wet saw with ¼" notched trowel
look of solid granite. Typically, granite tiles fit together diamond blade unsanded grout
more snugly than ceramic tiles. and, you can choose honing stone Stone sealer
grout that’s the same color as the tiles for a near- Cordless drill with rubber gloves
seamless finished appearance. ½" masonry bit mallet
layout is the most important step in any tile modified thinset mortar Wood screws
project. if tiles need to be cut to fit, it is best to cut 2 × 4 lumber scrap Scrap carpet
the tiles at the center of the installation or the sets Circular saw Eye protection
of tiles at both ends. This creates a more uniform
Granite tiles are installed in much the same way as ceramic tiles, but the ultra-narrow gaps and matching grout mimic the
appearance of solid polished granite.
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■ How to Install Granite Tile Countertops
1 2
Remove the countertops. From inside the base cabinets, Prepare and install the subbase. Measure the cabinet
remove the screws holding the countertops to the cabinets. bank from outside edges to outside edges on all sides and cut
Unscrew take-up bolts on mitered sections of the countertop. a piece of 5⁄8"-thick exterior grade plywood to fit. The edges
Use a utility knife to cut through the caulk, if present. of the plywood should be flush with the outside edges of
Countertops should lift off easily, but if they don’t, you can use the cabinet tops. Screw the plywood to the cabinet braces
a prybar to carefully pry them away from the base cabinets. from underneath.
Note: In some cases you can install these tiles over old
laminate countertops (see previous page).
3 4
Make the sink cutout. To create cutting lines, place the Install the tile underlayment. Granite tile, like ceramic tile,
sink upside down in the desired location. Trace the edges of requires a cementboard or denseboard underlayment layer.
the sink and remove it. To create support for the drop-in sink Cut the material (see page 174) to the same dimension as the
flange, use a compass to trace new cutting lines inside the plywood subbase and lay the cementboard over the plywood
traced lines (usually 5⁄8"). See the manufacturer’s instructions with the edges flush. From inside the sink base, trace around
to confirm dimensions (some sinks come with a template for the sink cutout with a marker. Remove the underlayment and
making the cutout. Use a jigsaw to cut out the sink opening. make the cutout with a jigsaw fitted with a carbide blade.
(continued)
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5 6
Attach the cementboard underlayment to the subbase. Cut (as needed) and lay out the tiles, beginning with an
First, apply a 1⁄8"-thick layer of modified thinset to the top of the inside corner if you have one. Arrange tiles for the best color
plywood using a ¼" notched trowel. Screw the cementboard to match. Tiles abut directly, with no space for grout. Cut the tiles
the plywood with cementboard screws. Space the screws 4" to as necessary to fit. Cut self-edged tiles edge side first. Cut
5" apart across the entire surface. the tiles with the polished side up. Use a fine honing stone to
relieve the cut edge to match the manufactured edges.
Variations for Corners & Angles ▸
Mitered inside corners are a bit tricky to cut because Kitchen islands often have corners that do not form a
the mitered point needs to align with the starting point right angle. In such cases, you can avoid a sharp angle on
of the bullnose edge. This has the effect of making the the countertop by cutting a triangular bullnose piece to
corner set back roughly an inch. fill in.
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7 8
Round the inside corner cuts. Even though the flange of Start laying tiles. Use modified thinset and a 1⁄4" trowel. If
the sink shown here will cover the inside corners in the sink you have an inside corner in your countertop, begin there.
cutout, take care to make a gentle rounded corner cut by Apply thinset at the inside corner, enough to place four or five
drilling at the corner with a 1⁄2" masonry bit. Perpendicular tiles. Set the left and right inside corner pieces and the first
corner cuts can lead to cracking. Finish the straight legs of the 12 × 12 field tile.
cutout with a tile saw or a jigsaw with a masonry blade.
9 10
Continue setting tiles. Apply the thinset mortar to an area Apply grout and seal. After the thinset has dried for at least
big enough for two to four tiles and place the tiles. Use a 2 × 4 24 hours, grout with an unsanded grout. When the grout has
covered with carpeting to set the tiles. Push down on tiles to dried, seal with natural stone sealer.
set, and also across the edges to ensure an even face.
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Tiled Backsplash
T here are few spaces in your home with as much

potential for creativity and visual impact as the
space between your kitchen countertop and your
Mosaic Backsplash ▸
cupboards. a well-designed backsplash can transform
the ordinary into the extraordinary. Tiles for the
backsplash can be attached directly to wallboard
or plaster and do not require backerboard. When
purchasing the tile, order 10 percent extra to cover
breakage and cutting. remove the switch and
receptacle coverplates and install box extenders to
make up for the extra thickness of the tile. protect the
countertop from scratches by covering it with a drop
cloth during the installation.

level Wall tile
Tape measure mastic adhesive
pencil masking tape
Tile cutter Grout
Notched trowel Caulk
rubber grout float drop cloth
rubber mallet Caulk gun
Sponge Scrap 2 × 4 Break tiles into fragments and make a mosaic
Story stick Carpet scrap backsplash. Always use sanded grout for joints wider
Tile spacers (if needed) Buff cloth than 1⁄8".
Contemporary glass mosaic sheets

create a counter-to-cabinet backsplash for
a waterproof, splash-proof wall with high
visual impact.
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■ How to Install a Tile Backsplash
1 2
Make a story stick by marking a board at least half as long Starting at the midpoint of the installation area, use the
as the backsplash area to match the tile spacing. story stick to make layout marks along the wall. If an end piece
is too small (less than half a tile), adjust the midpoint to give
you larger, more attractive end pieces. Use a level to mark this
point with a vertical reference line.
While it may appear straight, your countertop may not be Variation: Diagonal Layout. Mark vertical and horizontal
level and therefore is not a reliable reference line. Run a level reference lines, making sure the angle is 90°. To establish
along the counter to find the lowest point on the countertop. diagonal layout lines, measure out equal distances from the
Mark a point two tiles up from the low point and extend a level crosspoint, and then connect the points with a line. Additional
line across the entire work area. layout lines can be extended from these as needed.
(continued)
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4 5
Apply mastic adhesive evenly to the area beneath the Press tiles into the adhesive with a slight twisting motion.
horizontal reference line using a notched trowel. Comb the If the tiles are not self-spacing, use plastic spacers to maintain
adhesive horizontally with the notched edge. even grout lines. If the tiles do not hang in place, use masking
tape to hold them in place until the adhesive sets.
6 7
Install a whole row along the reference line, checking Install an edge border if it is needed in your layout. Mosaic
occasionally to make sure the tiles are level. Continue installing sheets normally do not have bullnose tiles on the edges, so if
tiles below the first row, trimming tiles that butt against the you don’t wish to see the cut edges of the outer tiles, install a
countertop as needed. vertical column of edge tiles at the end of the backsplash area.
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8 9
When the tiles are in place, make sure they are flat and Mix the grout and apply it with a rubber grout float. Spread it
firmly embedded by laying a beating block against the tile over the tiles, keeping the float at a low 30° angle, pressing the
and rapping it lightly with a mallet. Remove the spacers. grout deep into the joints. Note: For grout joints 1⁄8" and smaller,
Allow the mastic to dry for at least 24 hours, or as directed by be sure to use a non-sanded grout.
the manufacturer.
10 11
Wipe off excess grout, holding the float at a right angle to Clean excess grout with a damp sponge. When the grout
the tile, working diagonally so as not to remove grout from has dried to a haze, buff the tile clean with a soft cloth. Apply a
the joints. bead of caulk between the countertop and the tiles.
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Tiled Island
I slands are one of the most requested kitchen

features. people love them for many reasons,
including their value as bi-level counter space. in
most cases, the lower level is used as work space Tape measure ¾" exterior-grade
and the upper as casual dining space. The upper Circular saw (CdX) plywood
level provides a little camouflage for the work space, drill ½" cementboard
something that’s especially welcome in open-plan utility knife 3" deck screws
kitchens where meal preparation areas are visible from Straightedge Fiberglass mesh tape
social spaces. Stapler Thinset mortar
When planning casual dining space, remember Wallboard knife Grout with
that designers suggest at least 24 inches per person. Framing square latex additive
For the work space, remember that standard Notched trowel Silicone caulk
design guidelines recommend at least 36 inches Tile cutter Grout sealer
of uninterrupted work space to the side of a sink Grout float l-brackets
or cooktop. Sponge 6d finish nails
on work surfaces, mosaic and other small tile is Foam brush Wallboard screws
rarely the best choice. larger tile requires fewer grout Caulk gun pneumatic nailer
lines, always a good idea when it comes to cleaning 1 × 2 hardwood Shims
and maintenance. But there is no rule that all three 2 × 4 lumber paint roller and tray
elements of a bi-level island have to use the same Ceramic tile Cabinet doors
material. in fact, projects like this offer wonderful Construction and hardware
opportunities to mix materials, colors, and textures. adhesive Eye protection
Choose floor tile or tile made especially for counters paint and primer Cementboard screws
and then branch out when it comes to the backsplash, Tile spacers mosaic tile
where wall tile and mosaics work beautifully. masking tape Buff cloth
This island adds storage, countertop space, and seating to a kitchen, revealing the truly astonishing transformation this simple yet
functional piece can achieve.
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■ How to Build a Tiled Bi-Level Island
1 2
Build a 2 × 4 base for the island cabinet by cutting the Cut the bottom panel the same dimensions as the base
2 × 4s to length and joining them in a square frame that lays frame from ¾" plywood. Attach it to the frame with finish nails.
flat (wide sides down) on the floor. Use metal L-brackets to Then, cut the side panels to size and shape and fasten them
reinforce the joints. If you don’t wish to move the island, fasten to the edges with 6d finish nails and adhesive. Slip ¾" shims
the frame to the floor in position with construction adhesive (scrap plywood works well) beneath the side panels before
and/or deck screws. fastening them.
3 4
Cut the 2 × 4 cross supports to length and install them Prime and paint the cabinet interior and exterior.
between the side panels at every corner, including the
corners created by the L-shape cutout. Use 3" deck screws
driven through the side panels and into the ends of the
cross supports.
(continued)
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5 6
Build a face frame from 1 × 2 hardwood to fit the cabinet Cut strips of ¾" exterior plywood to make the subbases
front. Attach it to the cabinet with 6d finish nails and hang the for the countertops and a backer for the backsplash. The lower
cabinet doors (we installed three 13"-wide overlay doors). counter subbase should overhang by 2" on the front and sides.
The upper should overhang 2" on the sides and be centered on
the cabinet front to back. Attach the backer and subbases with
wallboard screws driven down into the 2 × 4 cross supports.
7 8
Cut 2" wide strips of plywood for buildup strips and attach Attach cementboard to the counter subbases, the
to the undersides of the subbases with construction adhesive backsplash, and tape seams; cover screw heads with thinset
and screws. mortar (see pages 174 to 175).
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9 10
Cut mosaic sheets to fit the backsplash area and attach Cut the edge tiles and fasten them around the perimeter
them with thinset adhesive (see Tile Backsplash, page 184). of the subbase with thinset mortar. The tiles should be flush
or slightly below the bottoms of the buildup strips and project
past the top surfaces so they will be level with the field tiles. If
you are not using edge tiles with a bullnose top, install the tiles
so they are level with the subbase surface and overhang them
with the field tiles.
11 12
Install the field tiles for the countertops last (see Tile Choose a suitable grout color and apply it to the tile with
Countertop, pages 170 to 179). a grout float. Buff off excess once it has dried. Seal the grout
with grout sealer.
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Outdoor
Projects
T ile makes as much sense in your outdoor home as
it does indoors. Its durability, ease of maintenance,
and attractive appearance bring good things to
patios, gardens, and outdoor kitchens, to name just a
few places.
Tile set into a mortar bed can make a very durable
exterior surface, but in colder climates with significant
freeze/thaw cycles the tile will not last as well. It does
not take much moisture in the tile or the bed to cause
tile popouts or cracking when the temperature dips. In
a cold climate you will likely have better luck installing
tile by bonding it to a sturdy concrete subbase (patio
or steps) with exterior-rated construction adhesive. You
may need to re-glue a tile occasionally, but you will
have much less trouble with popouts and fracturing.
Use tinted latex caulk between the tiles instead of
sanded grout.
In this chapter:
• Tiled Steps • Creating a Ceramic Tile
• Tiled Patio Fountain
■ 193
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(RAY) Text Job:06-19686 Title:CPI-HI
Job:06-19686 Title:CPI-HI 0606
0606 CG
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Geramic Tile
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Tiled Steps
I n addition to the traditional tricks for improving your

home’s curb appeal—landscaping, fresh paint, pretty
windows—a tiled entry makes a wonderful, positive
impression. To be suitable for tiling, stair treads pressure washer Tile spacers
must be deep enough to walk on safely. Check local masonry trowel Buckets
building codes for specifics, but most require that 4-ft. level plastic sheeting
treads be at least 11 inches deep (from front to back) Straightedge Field tile
after the tile is added. Tape measure Bullnose tile
Before you start laying any tiles, the concrete must Tile cutter or wet saw Grout
be free of curing agents, clean, and in good shape. Tile nippers latex tile caulk
make necessary repairs and give them time to cure. an Square-notched trowel Grout sealer
isolation membrane can be applied before the tile. This Needlenose pliers 2 × 4 lumber
membrane can be a fiberglass sheet or it can be brushed Grout float Carpet scrap
on as a liquid to dry. in either case, the membrane Grout sponge Cold chisel or flat-
separates the tile from the concrete, which allows the Caulk gun head screwdriver
two to move independently and protects the tile from masonry patching Wire brush
cracking due to settling or shifting of the concrete. compound Broom or vacuum
Choose exterior-rated, unglazed floor tile with a Thinset mortar Chalk
skid-resistant surface. Tile for the walking surfaces with latex Eye protection
should be at least 1⁄2-inch thick. use bullnose tiles at bonding adhesive
the front edges of treads (as you would on a countertop) isolation membrane
and use cove tiles as the bottom course on risers.
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■ How to Tile Concrete Steps
1 2
Use a pressure washer to clean the surface of the concrete. Dig out rubble in large cracks and chips using a small cold
Use a washer with at least 4,000 psi and follow manufacturer’s chisel or flat-head screwdriver. Use a wire brush to loosen dirt
instructions carefully to avoid damaging the concrete with the and debris in small cracks. Sweep the area or use a wet/dry
pressurized spray. vacuum to remove all debris.
3 4
Fill small cracks and chips Option: If damage is located at a front Test the surface of the steps and
with masonry patching compound edge, clean it as described above. Place stoop for low spots using a 4-ft. level
using a masonry trowel. Allow the a board in front and block the board in or other straightedge. Fill any low spots
patching compound to cure according place with bricks or concrete blocks. with patching compound and allow the
to manufacturer’s directions. Wet the damaged area and fill it with compound to cure thoroughly.
patching compound. Use a masonry
trowel to smooth the patch and then
allow it to cure thoroughly.
(continued)
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5 6
Spread a layer of isolation membrane over the concrete The sequence is important when tiling a stairway with
using a notched trowel. Smooth the surface of the membrane landing. The primary objective is to install the tile in such a way
using the flat edge of a trowel. Allow the membrane to cure that the fewest possible cut edges are visible from the main
according to manufacturer’s directions. viewing position. If you are tiling the sides of concrete steps,
start laying tile there first. Begin by extending horizontal lines
from the tops of the stair treads back to the house on the sides
of the steps. Use a 4-ft. level.
7 8 9
Mix a batch of thinset mortar with Begin setting tiles into the thinset Wrap a 2 × 4 in old carpet and
latex bonding adhesive and trowel mortar on the sides of the steps. Start at drag it back and forth across the tile
it onto the sides of the steps, trying the top and work your way downward. surfaces to set them evenly. Don’t get
to retain visibility of the layout lines. Try to lay out tile so the vertical gaps too aggressive here—you don’t want to
Because the top steps are likely more between tiles align. Use spacers if you dislodge all of the thinset mortar.
visible than the bottom steps, start on need to.
top and work your way down.
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10 11
Measure the width of a riser, including the thickness of the Next, dry-lay the tiles on the stair risers. Because the
tiles you’ve laid on the step sides. Calculate the centerpoint location of the tops of the riser tiles affects the positioning of
and mark it clearly with chalk or a high visibility marker. the tread and landing tiles, you’ll get the most accurate layout
if the riser tiles are laid first. Start by stacking tiles vertically
against the riser. (In some cases, you’ll only need one tile to
reach from tread to tread.) Add spacers. Trace the location of
the tread across the back of the top tile to mark it for cutting.
12 13 14
Cut enough tiles to size to lay tiles Trowel thinset mortar mixed with Lay tiles on the risers. The bottom
for all the stair risers. Be sure to allow bonding adhesive onto the faces of the tile edges can rest on the tread, and the
enough space for grout joints if you are risers. In most cases, you should be able tops of the top tiles should be flush with
stacking tiles. to tile each riser all at once. or slightly lower than the plane of the
tread above.
(continued)
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15 16
Dry-lay tile in both directions on the stair landing. You’ll Cut tiles as indicated by your dry run, and then begin
want to maintain the same grout lines that are established installing them by troweling thinset mortar for the bullnose
by the riser tiles, but you’ll want to evaluate the front-to-back tiles at the front edge of the landing. The tiles should overlap
layout to make sure you don’t end up with a row of tiles that is the top edges of the riser tiles, but not extend past their faces.
less than 2" or so in thickness.
17 18
Field tile
Bullnose tile
Set the first row of field tiles, maintaining an even gap Add the last row of tiles next to the house and threshold,
between the field tiles and the bullnose tiles. cutting them as needed so they are between 1⁄4 and 1⁄2" away
from the house.
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19 20
Install tiles on the stair treads, starting at the top tread and Fill in the field tiles on the stair treads, being sure to
working your way downward. Set a bullnose tile on each side leave a gap between the back tiles and the riser tiles that’s the
of the centerline and work your way toward the sides, making same thickness as the other tile gaps.
sure to conceal the step-side tiles with the tread tiles.
21 22 23
Let the thinset mortar cure for a After a few weeks, seal the grout Select (or have prepared) a
few days, and then apply grout in the lines with an exterior-rated grout sealer. pretinted caulk that’s the same color
gaps between tiles using a grout float. as your grout. Fill the gap between
Wipe away the grout after it clouds over. the back row of tiles and the house
Cover with plastic, in the event of rain. with caulk. Smooth with a wet finger
if needed.
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Tiled Patio
O utdoor tile can be made of several different

materials and is available in many colors and
styles. make sure the tiles you select are intended
layer of new concrete over the old surface before
laying tile.
Note: Wear eye protection when cutting tile and
for outdoor use. a popular trend is to use natural handle cut tiles carefully—the cut edges of some
stone tiles with different shapes and complementary materials may be very sharp.
colors, as demonstrated in this project. Tile
manufacturers may offer brochures giving you
ideas for modular patterns that can be created from Tools & Materials ▸
their tiles.
When laying a modular, geometric pattern with Tape measure Tile spacers
tiles of different sizes, it’s crucial that you test the pencil Buckets
layout before you begin and that you place the first Chalk line plastic sheeting
tiles very carefullly. The first tiles will dictate the Tile cutter or wet saw Thinset mortar
placement of all other tiles in your layout. Tile nippers modular tile
You can pour a new masonry slab on which to Square-notched trowel Grout
install your tile patio, but another option is to finish 2 × 4 padded with carpet Grout additive
an existing slab by veneering it with tile—the scenario paintbrush and roller Grout sealer
demonstrated here. hammer Tile sealer
outdoor tile must be installed on a clean, flat, Grout float Foam brush
and stable surface. When tiling an existing concrete Grout sponge Trowel
slab, the surface must be free of flaking, wide cracks, Cloth Eye protection
and other major imperfections. a damaged slab can Caulk gun
be repaired by applying a one- to two-inch-thick
This compact tile patio creates a welcoming entry without consuming too much yard and garden space.
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■ How to Tile a Patio Slab
House
1
Modular unit
Adjusted line
Center line
Adjusted line
To establish a layout for tile with a modular pattern, you must carefully determine the location of the first tile. On the clean
and dry concrete surface, measure and mark a centerline down the center of the slab. Test-fit tiles along the line—because of the
modular pattern used here, the tiles are staggered. Mark the edge of a tile nearest the center of the pad, then create a second line
perpendicular to the first and test-fit tiles along this line.
Make adjustments as needed so the modular pattern breaks evenly over the patio surface, and is symmetrical from side to
side. You may need to adjust the position of one or both lines. The intersection of the lines is where your tile installation will begin.
Outline the position of each group of tiles on the slab.
(continued)
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3
Variation: To establish a traditional grid pattern, test-fit rows Following manufacturer’s instructions, mix enough
of tiles so they run in each direction, intersecting at the center thinset mortar to work for about 2 hrs. (start with 4 to 5" deep
of the patio. Adjust the layout to minimize tile cutting at the in a 5-gal. bucket. At the intersection of the two layout lines,
sides and ends, then mark the final layout and snap chalk lines use a notched trowel to spread thinset mortar over an area
across the patio to create four quadrants. As you lay tile, work large enough to accommodate the layout of the first modular
along the chalklines and in one quadrant at a time. group of tiles. Hold the trowel at a 45° angle to rake the mortar
to a consistent depth.
4 5
Set the first tile, twisting it slightly as you push it into the Position the second tile adjacent to the first with a slight
mortar. Align it with both adjusted layout lines, then place a gap between them. Place spacers on end in the joint near each
padded 2 × 4 over the center of the tile and give it a light rap corner and push the second tile against the spacers. Make certain
with a hammer to set the tile. the first tile remains aligned with the layout lines. Set the padded
2 × 4 across both tiles and tap to set. Use a damp cloth to remove
any mortar that squeezes out of the joint or gets on tile surfaces.
Joints must be at least 1⁄8"-deep to hold grout.
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6 7
Lay the remaining tiles of the first modular unit using With the first modular unit set, continue laying tile
spacers to set gaps. Using a trowel, scrape the excess mortar following the pattern established. You can use the chalk lines
from the concrete pad in areas you will not yet be working to for general reference, but they will not be necessary as layout
prevent it from hardening and interfering with tile installation. lines. To prevent squeeze-out between tiles, scrape a heavy
accumulation of mortar 1⁄2" away from the edge of a set tile
before setting the adjacent tile.
Cutting Contours in Tile ▸

To make convex (left) or concave (right) curves, mark the profile of the curve on the tile, then use a wet saw to make
parallel straight cuts, each time cutting as close to the marked line as possible. Use a tile nippers to break off small
portions of tabs, gradually working down to the curve profile. Finally, use an angle grinder to smooth off the sharp edges of
the tabs. Make sure to wear a particle mask when using the tile saw and wear sturdy gloves when using the nippers.
(continued)
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8 9
After installing the tile, remove all the spacers, cover Use a grout float to spread grout over an area that is
the tiled area with plastic, and let the thinset mortar cure roughly 10 sq. ft. Push down with the face of the float to force
according to the manufacturer’s instructions. When tile has grout into the joints, then hold the float edge at a 45° angle to
fully set, remove the plastic and mix grout, using a grout the tile surfaces and scrape off the excess grout.
additive instead of water. Grout additive is especially important
in outdoor applications, because it creates joints that are more
resilient in changing temperatures.
10
Once you’ve grouted this area, wipe off the grout residue using a damp sponge. Wipe with a light, circular motion—you want
to clean tile surfaces but not pull grout out of the joints. Don’t try to get the tile perfectly clean the first time. Wipe the area several
times, rinsing out the sponge frequently.
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11 Grouting Porous Tiles ▸
Some tiles, such as slate, have highly porous

surfaces that can be badly stained by grout. For
these tiles, apply grout by filling an empty caulk tube
(available at tile stores and some building centers)
with grout, and apply the grout to the joints with a
caulk gun. Cut the tip to make an opening just large
enough to allow grout to be forced out. Run the tip
Once the grout has begun to set (usually about 1 hour, down the joint between tiles as you squeeze out the
depending on temperature and humidity), clean the tile grout. Remove the grout that gets on the tile surface
surfaces again. You want to thoroughly clean grout residue with a wet sponge. You may need to use your finger
from tile surfaces because it is difficult to remove once it to force grout into the joint—protect your skin by
has hardened. Buff off a light film left after final cleaning wearing a heavy glove to do this.
with a cloth.
12 13
Cover the pad with plastic and let the grout cure according Apply tile sealer to the entire surface using a paint
to manufacturer’s instructions. Once the grout has cured, use a roller. Cover the patio with plastic and allow the sealer to dry
foam brush to apply grout sealer to only the grout, wiping any completely before exposing the patio to weather or traffic.
spill-over off of tile surfaces.
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Creating a Ceramic Tile Fountain
A fountain is welcome in any landscape, and

building and installing one is easier and much
less expensive than you might imagine. Think of it:
a colorful tile-covered fountain reflected in a small Notched trowel Concrete block
garden pond, water gently splashing on sparkling sea Grout float Construction
glass. and you can make one. easily. Caulk gun adhesive
Start with a common chimney flue tile and Jigsaw low-voltage
a few square feet of colorful mosaic tiles. add an or bolt cutters fountain pump
inexpensive twelve-volt fountain pump and tiny 18 × 18 × 24" low-voltage
submersible disc lights, which can be wired into any chimney flue tile fountain lights
low-voltage system. almost before you know it, you’ll Bricks Sea glass
be ready to show off for the neighbors. metal l-brackets (approx. 4 lbs.)
one note of caution: before adding accessories to 18 × 18" expanded Silicone caulk
your low-voltage system, make sure your transformer metal grate
can handle the extra load. 12 sq. ft.
Chimney flue tiles are available in many different of mosaic tile
sizes and can be purchased at most fireplace and masonry Thinset-mortar
stores. Small precut sheets of expanded metal grate are Grout
available from most hardware stores and home centers.
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Job:06-19686 Title:CPI-HI
Title:CPI-HI 0606
0606 CG
CG to
to Geramic
Geramic Tile
Tile Third
Third Edn
(RAY)
Job:06-19686 Edn
(RAY) Text 07-C57297 #150
#150 DTP:216
DTP:216 Page:206
Page:206
Sea glass
Expanded metal grate
Waterline to protect
submersible lights
from burnout
L-brackets
Low-voltage
fountain pump
Low-voltage fountain lights

positioned below waterline
Concrete block
Chimney flue tile
Bricks
Pump and light cables tie

into low-voltage lighting
system or directly to
approved transformer
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■ How to Create a Ceramic Tile Fountain
1 2
Draw a line on the inside of the flue tile, about 4" from Set tile on the outside of the flue tile and the inside down
the top. On each wall of the tile, position two L-brackets at the to the line. Working on one side of the flue at a time, spread
line and glue each bracket in place with construction adhesive. thin-set mortar on the surface, then press the tile into place.
Let the mortar dry according to manufacturer’s directions.
When the mortar is dry, grout the tile.
3 4
Position four bricks at the bottom of the water garden and Set the lights in place, securing them to the concrete
set the flue tile on them. (The flue tile will be very heavy— block with dabs of silicone caulk. Run the cables from the
recruit a helper or two for this.) Set a concrete block in the pump and lights out of the pond to the nearest fixture in your
center of the flue tile and put the fountain pump on top of it. low-voltage lighting system. (If you don’t have a low-voltage
lighting system, run the cables to the transformer and plug the
transformer into the nearest GFCI outlet.)
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5 6
Connect the cables from the pump and lights to a cable If necessary, cut the expanded metal grate to fit inside the
from your low-voltage lighting system, using the simple flue tile, using a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade. In the center
connectors included with the pump. Add water to the pond of the grate, use the jigsaw or a bolt cutter to expand a hole
and test the lights and pump. Adjust the operation of the pump to approximately 2" in diameter. Insert the pump’s discharge
as necessary. Dig a small, shallow trench and bury the cables. tube into this hole, then set the grate on top of the L-brackets
in the flue tile. Mound the sea glass around the discharge tube.
Use silicone to stick individual pieces of sea glass together, if
necessary to hold them in place. Cover the remaining grate
with a layer of sea glass.
Low-voltage Accessories ▸
If you have a low-voltage lighting
system, add light fixtures to the area
surrounding your garden pond and
fountain. The extra light will focus
even more attention on this lovely
little fountain.
Before adding additional fixtures
and accessories, make sure your
transformer can handle the extra load. If
not, run the pond lighting as a separate
circuit or purchase a larger transformer
to handle the load.
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dd Edn Job:06-19686 Title:CPI-HI
Title:CPI-HI 0606
0606 CG
CG to
to Geramic
Geramic Tile
Tile Third
Third Edn
(RAY)
Edn Job:06-19686 Edn
e:208
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DTP:216 Page:209
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Decorative
Projects
D ecorative tile projects are just plain fun. once
you understand the basic techniques of tile
decoration, the possibilities are limited only by your
imagination, your time, and your budget.
in this chapter you’ll find projects ranging from
small items, such as decorative planters and an
address marker to large ones, such as a tiled sink base.
You’ll learn how to frame a bathroom mirror with tile
and how to create an artistic mosaic wall-hanging.
in short, there’s something in this chapter for all
decorators—regardless of your skill level or experience.
You’ll also find detailed instructions on how to
make your own tile. This is an easy process, and one
that can be shared with children of all ages. it does
require access to a kiln and glazes, but with some
advance notice, that can be arranged with retail
pottery shops or studios. This is the type of project
that requires experimentation and test runs. Try out
different shapes and colors; work with traditional and
non-traditional tools to create texture; blend glazes
until you find a combination that pleases you.
as your skills and confidence grow, you’ll discover
that decorative tile projects make excellent gifts.
In this chapter:
• Creating Mosaic Planters • Building a Tiled Sink Base
• Bathroom Mirror Frame • Handmade Tile
• Address Marker Mosaic • Tiled Garden Bench
• Mosaic Wall Hanging
■ 211
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Creating Mosaic Planters
T he basic steps for adding tile to a planter are much

the same as for adding tile to any other surface:
plan the layout, set the tile, and grout. Fun and
Select containers that have flat rims like the white
planter shown below or that have a broad expanse of
flat surface like the pot shown in the project on the
creativity come into the process when you turn your following page. Try to match the style and colors of the
imagination loose with tile and container selection. planters to the design.
But don’t limit yourself to tile—mix in other
materials such as flat glass marbles or broken pieces of
stained glass, mirror, and china. The designs can be as
simple or as elaborate as you’d like. Tools & Materials ▸
Try a mosaic of daisies using bits of white stained
glass for the petals, golden flat glass marbles for the Snap cutter Tile mastic
centers, and broken tile bits for the background. or Tile nippers Grout
maybe you’d prefer to use bits of green tile for a vine putty knife Grout sealer
and leaves with purple flat glass marbles arranged like Grout float eye protection
bunches of grapes. add a background of broken china Grout sponge
or broken stained glass, and you’ve got a beautiful 1" mosaic tile
handmade piece for only a few hours’ work.
A few pieces of broken-up mosaic tile can turn an ordinary pot into a garden showpiece.
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■ How to Decorate Planters
1 2
Remove the mosaic tiles from their backing and experiment Draw an irregular border around the planter, ranging from
with designs and layouts. Cut tiles in half as necessary 11⁄2 to 2" wide. Use a putty knife to spread mastic within the
using a snap cutter. Use tile nippers to break some tiles into border and position the tile, alternating between the whole and
small pieces. half tiles all the way around the planter.
Fill in the remaining portion of the

3 border with pieces of broken tile. Let the
mastic dry according to manufacturer’s
directions. Grout the tile. If the planter will
be used outdoors, apply grout sealer after
the grout has fully cured.
Decorative Projects ■ 213
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Bathroom Mirror Frame
T he vast majority of bathrooms in new homes

today come equipped with flat, boring mirrors.
There’s nothing wrong with these mirrors, but
the perimeter, and then rehang the mirror. if you’re
rehanging a mirror, take care to make sure the hanger
and anchor you use are quite sturdy, as the mirror will
there’s not much right with them, either. Framing a have gained a good deal of weight.
mirror with ceramic or glass tile transforms it from
flat to fabulous, and the whole project takes only a
few hours. Tools & Materials ▸
The process is extremely simple. in fact,
shopping for the tile can be the most difficult part of Tape measure heavy brown paper
the project. if you’re tiling the rest of the bathroom permanent marker or cardboard
at the same time, you’ll want to combine trim pieces Wet saw Chair rail and mosaic tile
that match or complement the field tile. if the Tile spacers Windshield adhesive
room has no other tile, you can mix and match to putty knife Wide painter’s tape
your heart’s content, going as bold or as subtle as Grout float Grout with latex additive
you like. Grout sponge Grout sealer
There are two ways you can go about tiling a Foam paintbrush eye protection
mirror frame: apply the tile directly to the mirror; or Caulk gun laser or carpenter’s level
tile around the mirror and butt up to the edges. We Straightedge
chose to remove the mirror, attach the tiles around
Tiled Mirror Designs ▸
In this project, tile is added only to the mirror. The In new construction or major remodeling projects,
mirror is framed by a mosaic of shards and small pieces place the mirror so the trim tile can be attached to the
of glass tile. Mosaic projects are incredibly easy to do and wall rather than to the mirror.
really add a lot to a small room like this one.
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■ How to Frame a Bathroom Mirror
1 2
Measure the mirror and cut a template from a piece of Mark any tiles that must be cut to produce full tiles at the
heavy brown paper or cardboard. Put the template on the floor corners. (If it’s absolutely necessary to trim corner tiles, make
or a large work surface. Dry lay the tile around it, using spacers them all equal lengths.) Miter the one end of each corner tile at
if the tiles are not self-spaced. a 45° angle.
3 4
Dry lay the outermost row of chair rail tiles. Check Starting in the left-hand corner, dry lay the next couple
corner miters of chair rail to make sure everything is cut of rows of field tile. For accurate placement, include spacers.
properly and aligned on the mirror as desired. Make sure tiles match in corners.
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5 6
Now that the chair rail and two rows of field tile are Starting at the top left-hand corner, apply adhesive to
aligned, dry lay the final row of pencil tiles. Cut tiles, as the back of the tile using a small putty knife. Set the tile on the
necessary, to fit onto mirror as planned. Once all tiles fit as mirror and twist it a little to secure it in place.
planned, remove all but the first row of chair rail tile.
7 8
Continue to set the tiles in each corner and then work Prepare a small batch of grout and fill all the tile joints.
around the entire perimeter, fastening each tile with adhesive. Clean and buff the tile. Allow grout to set completely according
Once the chair rail is secure, move on to the next row. Repeat to manufacturer recommendation.
this process until all rows are secured to the mirror.
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Address Marker Mosaic
B roken tile and broken china combine beautifully

for mosaics of all sorts. here they’re put to work
on an address marker, a quick and easy project and a
good way to use leftover tile. Jigsaw hot glue
Cut the base material for the marker in the shape paintbrush or silicone caulk
shown here or create your own. No matter what shape rubber mallet Grout
you choose, use exterior-grade plywood and seal the Tile nippers Slot hangers
grout after it has cured according to the manufacturer’s rotary tool and screws
directions. With those precautions, your address hot glue gun Tape measure
marker will remain attractive for many years. Grout float paper bag
drill eye protection
Grinding disc Foam brush
Caulk gun
1 3⁄ 4"
Grout sealer
1 3⁄ 4"
3
⁄4" exterior-grade
7 1⁄ 2"
plywood
Wood sealer
16"
4" number stencils
Tile and plates
A unique address marker fashioned from shards of broken tile makes an interesting and inviting statement to visitors.
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Title:CPI-HI 0606
0606 CG
CG to
to Geramic
Geramic Tile
Tile Third
Third Edn
(RAY)
Job:06-19686 Edn
(RAY) Text 07-C57297 #150
#150 DTP:216
DTP:216 Page:218
Page:218
■ How to Make an Address Marker
1 2
Enlarge and photocopy the pattern on the opposite page. Use a rotary tool and a grinding disc to polish away the
Trace the pattern onto plywood and cut it out using a jigsaw. ridge on the back of each plate. One at a time, place the plates
Apply a coat of wood sealer and let it dry. Mark the center in a heavy paper bag and roll the top closed. Rap the bag with
and draw parallel placement lines on the plywood, then plan a rubber mallet to break the plate. Wear safety goggles. Break
the placement of the numbers. Trace the numbers onto the the tiles in the same manner.
plywood, then draw a 11⁄4" border around the outside edge.
3 4
Lay out the pieces within the number outlines, using Turn the marker on edge and add tile to all the edges. Grout
tile nippers to reshape pieces as necessary. Use hot glue or the tile, let it dry thoroughly, and seal the grout with grout
silicone caulk to secure the tile to the plywood. Fill in the sealer. Attach two slot hangers to the back of the mosaic.
background with pieces of china.
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Mosaic Wall Hanging
U nlike most tile projects, a wall-hanging doesn’t

need to be watertight or have structural strength,
so a project like this gives you the chance to play with
Sea glass is a lovely addition to a mosaic, but it’s
relatively difficult to find and can be expensive to buy.
We solved that problem by creating our own, which
tile and other complementary materials. You can use gave us more colors than the limited choices of brown
tile fragments, broken dishes, pieces of mirror, and and green typically available in stores.
even pieces of glass. in addition to free-form projects, such as the one
These days it can be difficult to find small pieces of shown here, you can combine the techniques from
masonite in building centers or home stores. however, the original floor mosaic project (pages 100 to 105)
many art supply stores offer pieces framed out for painting with the ones shown here to create a different type
projects, and these work wonderfully for this project. of mosaic.
■ How to Create a Mosaic Wall-hanging

1 Tools & Materials ▸
Safety glasses old dishes
rubber mallet Glass bottles
Tile nippers Tile mastic
rock tumbler artist’s masonite
Square-notched trowel Grout
Grout float Cloth
Grout sponge paper bag
Tile Gloves
Sort through the materials you’ve collected and decide what

to use. Wearing safety glasses, put tile, dishes, or bottles inside a
heavy-duty paper bag and hit them with a rubber mallet. Use tile
nippers to tailor china or tile pieces, as necessary.
2 3 4
Following manufacturer’s Draw reference lines on the masonite Mix a small batch of grout and spread
directions, tumble pieces of glass in a and spread tile mastic on one section it over the surface of the mosaic. Let the
rock tumbler to smooth the edges and using a square trowel. Embed the glass, mosaic dry a few minutes, then wipe the
give them the look of sea glass. Note: tile, and other materials in the mastic on surface with a damp grout sponge. Let
It will take several days to create an that section. Continue working in small the mosaic dry, then buff away any grout
appreciable amount of tumbled glass. sections until the masonite is covered. film with a clean, dry cloth.
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Tiled Sink Base
F rom its treadle sewing machine base to its

handmade tile and hand-thrown sink, this project
is unique. other versions of this project could be
made with commercially available tile and one of the Circular saw 11⁄2" cementboard
many bowl-type sinks on the market. drill and hole saw screws
it isn’t necessary to use a sewing machine stand, Jigsaw Thinset mortar
either. many interesting or vintage pieces will work for utility knife Tile
the base. don’t destroy a valuable antique—instead, heavy-duty stapler Grout and
look for a stand with no top or a small chest with a Wallboard knife latex additive
badly damaged top. You’ll need to remove the top Framing square Caulk
anyway in order to add a plywood and cementboard Notched trowel Salvaged base
core that can stand up to daily exposure to water. Grout float Bowl-type sink basin
after you choose a base, select a bowl-type Grout sponge Faucet
sink basin and a specially designed faucet, either Foam brush drain hardware
wall- or counter-mounted. Tile the wall around a Caulk gun l-brackets
wall-mounted faucet, and make cutouts for a counter- Tape measure or angle-irons
mounted faucet. even with a counter-mounted faucet
3
⁄4" exterior-grade eye protection
such as the one shown here, you may want to add a plywood Wood screws
small backsplash (see page 184). 4-mil plastic Grout sealer
if you don’t like the idea of raw plywood being sheeting Tile spacers
visible from beneath the sink, paint the bottom of packing tape Tile-cutting tools
the plywood before beginning to assemble the core.
1
⁄2" cementboard
Coordinate the paint color with the tile and sink, so Fiberglass mesh tape
your project looks attractive from any angle.
■ How to Make a Tiled Sink Base

1 2 3
Measure the base and the sink and Mark a cutout for the sink on the Cut cementboard to match the
determine a size for the plywood core. plywood. Drill entrance holes, then use dimensions of the plywood core, then
Cut the core to size. a jigsaw to make the cutout. Use the use the plywood as a template to mark
template supplied with the faucet to the cutouts on the cementboard.
mark those cutouts. Use a hole saw to
make the faucet cutouts.
(continued)
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4 5 6
Lay plastic sheeting over the plywood Set the plywood core on top of the Position the cementboard (rough-
core, draping it over the edges. Tack the base and attach it with screws driven side up) on the core and attach it with
plastic in place with staples. If you use through the base and into the core. Use 11⁄2" screws. Make sure the screw heads
more than one piece, overlap the seams angle irons or L-brackets if necessary are flush with the surface. Cut 11⁄4"-wide
by 6" and seal them with packing tape. with the base you’ve selected. Make cementboard strips and attach them to
sure the screws don’t go through the the edges of the core with screws.
top of the plywood.
7 8
Tape all joints with fiberglass mesh tape. Apply three Dry-fit tiles to find the layout using spacers. Once the
layers of tape along the edge where the top meets the edging. layout is established, make marks along the vertical and
Fill all gaps and cover all of the tape with a layer of thinset horizontal rows. Draw reference lines through the marks and
mortar. Feather out the mortar to create a smooth, flat surface. use a framing square to make sure the lines are perpendicular.
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9 10
Set the edge tiles and let them dry. Install the field tiles and Mix a batch of grout with a latex additive and apply
let them dry. Cut tile as necessary. (See pages 170 to 179 for it with a rubber grout float. Wipe away excess grout with a
more information on setting tile on a countertop.) damp sponge. When the grout has cured, apply sealer with a
foam brush.
11 12
Apply a bead of caulk to the side of the sink, just below Install the faucet and drain hardware, following
the lip of the ridge. Set the sink into the cutout, resting the manufacturer’s instructions.
ridge of the sink at the lip of the cutout. Make sure the joint
between the sink and the counter is filled with caulk.
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Handmade Tile
M aking ceramic tile from scratch is a therapeautic

art for many people, requiring patience and
plenty of time. after forming, the tile has to air dry for
While you’re still in the exploratory phase,
experiment with glazes and decorative possibilities.
First, buy some low-fire clay and play with ways to
two to three weeks and then needs to be fired in a kiln make impressions. Next, buy several white or off-white
twice before it’s ready to be used. Before committing matte-finish, glazed tiles. paint glaze on the test tile in
to the project, find a hobby shop or ceramic supply thin layers and have them fired. When you’re satisfied
store where you can have your tile fired. Talk with the with the results, you’re ready to make your own tile.
staff to find out how much the firings will cost and
how much in advance they must be scheduled.
measure the area where you plan to use the Tools & Materials ▸
tile, and calculate how many tiles you’ll need for
the project. it’s a good idea to make more tiles than Straightedge Blanket or bubblewrap
you’ll need to account for defective pieces. also, be utility knife Canvas
sure to check the manufacturer specifications for rolling pin low-fire clay
shrinkage (or test your chosen clay for shrinkage Clay squeegee Seashells or other
before committing to a large purchase). Talk with Craft knife imprinting objects
the staff at the ceramic store to figure out how much Spatula plywood scraps
clay you’ll need to buy to produce the number of paintbrushes low-fire glazes
tiles you need. if the tile will be used in a kitchen Stiff cardboard ruler or measuring tape
or near a bathroom sink, choose food-safe glazes paring knife
for them.
Create your own custom tiles from clay and have them fired at a local ceramics store.
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■ How to Make Handmade Tile
1 2
On a piece of stiff cardboard, draw a template for the Take out a 1 lb. chunk of clay and pat it into a ball. Close
tile. Measure carefully and allow for shrinkage. (For example, the bag securely to prevent the remaining clay from drying out.
a 45⁄8 × 45⁄8" template should produce a 4 × 4" tile, factoring Put the clay on a smooth work surface and pound it with the
in a 12% shrinkage rate.) Measure diagonally from corner to palm of your hand, flattening the ball. (Don’t fold the clay over
corner; when the diagonals are precisely equal, the template itself—this traps air in the clay.)
is square. Cut out the template using a straightedge and
utility knife.
3 4
Cover the clay with a piece of canvas. Roll out the clay to a Dip the edge of a clean squeegee in water. Take the canvas
uniform thickness. Change directions as you roll the clay so the off the clay and pull the squeegee across the clay, smoothing
clay particles will be evenly distributed. If all the clay particles the surface. Work in one direction only, and rinse the squeegee
go the same direction, the tile will shrink unevenly as it’s fired. as often as necessary to keep the edge clean.
Lay two 1⁄2" plywood scraps on the table as guides (inset).
(continued)
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5 6
Carefully place the template on the clay. Holding it firmly Scoot the tile to the side to make sure it’s not stuck to the
against the clay with one hand, use a craft knife to cut around work surface. Wet your index finger and use it to smooth the
the template. Pull the extra clay away from the tile and run the corners and sides of the tile. Gently press a clean shell into the
knife around the edges again. clay to create the desired design.
7 8
Pick up the tile with a spatula and set it on a scrap of Continue cutting out tile. Set them out of direct sunlight
plywood to dry. If the tile has gotten distorted, nudge it back to dry.
into shape.
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9 10
Dry the tiles for a day or two, until they’re the consistency Put the tiles on a sturdy tray or piece of flat plywood and
of leather. Using a paring knife, trim any bulging edges. Allow wrap it in a blanket or bubble wrap. Carefully transport the
the tiles to dry completely, which should take two to three dried tile to a kiln for firing.
weeks. If the air is extremely dry, the tile may dry too quickly,
causing cracking. Lay a cloth over them to slow down the
drying process.
Brush two or three thin coats of glaze

11 onto the fired (and cool) tile. Let the glaze
dry to touch between coats. Have the tile
fired a second and final time.
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0606 CG
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Geramic Tile
Tile Third
Third Edn
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Tiled Garden Bench
H ere’s a splendid example of the term “return on

investment.” Four decorative tiles and a handful
of coordinated accent tiles produce quite an impact.
transform a plain cedar bench into a special garden
ornament. and you can complete this entire project
over one weekend.
in fact, those accents and a few dozen 4 × 4-inch tiles
Making this tiled benchtop requires some creativity and a fair amount of tile cutting, but the result is both interesting
and beautiful.
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Tools, Materials, & Cutting List
Tools Grout
A
Tape measure B
Tile
Circular saw
drill Mortar
Stapler
power or hand A
miter saw Cementboard (D)
(optional)
utility knife
Chalk line
Cloth
E
1
⁄4" notched trowel
Needlenose pliers Plastic
Grout float Plywood (C) F

Sponge B
1½" blocks E
Tile-cutting tools
F
paintbrush
eye protection
G
E
G
Materials
plastic sheeting
Galvanized
deck screws
F
(2", 3")
11⁄4" cementboard
G
screws
Clear wood sealer
Field and accent tile F G
Thinset mortar
Tile spacers
Grout
Grout sealer
150-grit sandpaper
Cutting List
KEy PArT DIMEnSIon PCS. MATErIAL
A Sides 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 51"
1 1
2 Cedar
B Ends 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 16"
1 1
2 Cedar
C Core 15 × 48" 1 ¾" ext. plywood
D Core 15 × 48" 1 ¾" cementboard
E Stretchers 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2 × 16"
1 1
3 Cedar
F Braces 11⁄2 × 51⁄2 × 16" 4 Cedar
G Legs 31⁄2 × 31⁄2 × 13" 4 Cedar
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■ How to Make a Tiled Garden Bench
1 2
Cut two sides and two ends, then position the ends Cut three stretchers. Mark the sides, 41⁄2" from the inside of
between the sides so the edges are flush. Make sure the frame each end. Using 11⁄2" blocks beneath them as spacers, position
is square. Drill 1⁄8" pilot holes through the sides and into the the stretchers and make sure they’re level. Drill pilot holes and
ends. Drive 3" screws through the pilot holes. fasten the stretchers to the sides with 3" screws.
3 4
Cut one 15 × 48" core from 3⁄4" exterior-grade plywood Position the bench frame upside down and over the
and another the same size from cementboard. Staple plastic plywood/cementboard core. Drill pilot holes and then drive
sheeting over the plywood, draping it over the edges. Lay the 2" galvanized deck screws through the stretchers and into
cementboard rough-side up on the plywood and attach it with the plywood.
11⁄4" cementboard screws driven every 6". Make sure the screw
heads are flush with the surface.
5 6
Cut four braces from a cedar 2 × 6. Mark the angle on On each brace, measure down 3⁄4" from the top edge and
each end of each brace by measuring down 11⁄2" from the top draw a reference line across the stretcher for the screw
edge and 11⁄2" along the bottom edge. Draw a line between the positions. Drill 1⁄8" pilot holes along the reference line. Position a
two points and cut along that line using a power or hand miter brace on each side of the end stretchers and fasten them with
saw or a circular saw. 3" screws driven through the braces and into the stretchers.
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7 8
Cut four 13" legs from a 4 × 4. Position each leg between Snap perpendicular reference lines to mark the center
a set of braces and against the sides of the bench frame. Drill of the length and width of the bench. Beginning at the center
pilot holes through each brace and attach the leg to the braces of the bench, dry-fit the field tiles, including spacers. Set the
by driving 3" screws through the braces and into the leg. accent tiles in place and mark the field tile for cutting.
Repeat the process for each leg. Sand all surfaces with 150-grit
sandpaper, then seal all wood surfaces with clear wood sealer.
9 10
Cut the field tile and continue dry-fitting the bench top, Set the tile into the thinset mortar, using a slight twisting
including the accent and border tiles. When you’re satisfied, motion. Continue adding thinset and setting the tile until the
remove the tile and apply thinset mortar over the cementboard bench top is covered. Remove the spacers. Let the mortar dry
using a notched trowel. according to manufacturer’s directions. (See pages 170 to 179
for more information on setting tile.)
Mix grout and use a grout float to

11 force it into the joints surrounding the
tile. Wipe excess grout away with a damp
sponge. When the grout has dried slightly,
polish the tiles with a clean, dry cloth to
remove the slight haze of grout. Seal the
grout joints with grout sealer when dry.
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Title:CPI-HI 0606
0606 CG
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Geramic Tile
Tile Third
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DTP:216 Page:233
Page:233
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Title:CPI-HI 0606
0606 CG
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Geramic Tile
Tile Third
Third Edn
(RAY)
Job:06-19686 Edn
(RAY) 07-C57297 #150
#150 DTP:216
DTP:216 Page:234
Page:234
Repair Projects
T ile is extremely durable, but like any construction
material, it requires maintenance and occasional
repairs. This chapter leads you through the most
common repair projects: replacing grout, removing and
replacing a broken tile, and replacing accessories, such
as a ceramic soap dish.
When it comes to tile, replacing grout is the most
common repair project because the grout is the most
vulnerable part of the installation. While a small crack
or hole in a grout joint may not seem like a major
issue, in floors and wet walls it allows water to seep
behind the tile and can lead to serious damage over
time. Like any other repair, taking care of grout issues
while they’re small prevents much larger problems
later. This chapter gives you all the information you’ll
need to take excellent care of all your floor tile, wall
tile, and its grout throughout your home.
In this chapter:
• Maintaining Floor Tile • Repairing Wall Tile
• Grout Colorant
■ 235
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dd Edn
Edn Job:06-19686 Title:CPI-HI
Title:CPI-HI 0606
0606 CG
CG to
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Geramic Tile
Tile Third
Third Edn
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Job:06-19686 Edn
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Page:235
Maintaining Floor Tile
A lthough ceramic tile is one of the hardest floor

coverings, problems can occur. Tiles sometimes
become damaged and need to be replaced. usually,
this is simply a matter of removing and replacing hammer Grout pigment
individual tiles. however, major cracks in grout joints Cold chisel Grout sealer
indicate that floor movement has caused the mortar eye protection Grout sponge
beneath the tile to deteriorate. in this case, the mortar putty knife Floor‑leveling compound
must be replaced in order to create a permanent repair. Square‑notched Carbide‑tipped grout saw
any time you remove tile, check the underlayment. trowel Sand paper
if it’s no longer smooth, solid, and level, repair or replace rubber mallet Cleaning tools
it before replacing the tile. When removing grout or Grout float Wood block
damaged tiles, be careful not to damage surrounding tiles. Thinset mortar Carpet scrap
always wear eye protection when working with a hammer replacement tile Vacuum
and chisel. any time you are doing a major tile installation, Grout White vinegar
make sure to save extra tiles. This way, you will have Bucket
materials on hand when repairs become necessary.
Regrouting tile may feel like a repair project (and not a very fun one at that), but it really is more of an ongoing maintenance
issue. Failed or failing grout will allow moisture underneath tiles and can cause entire floors to fail.
236 ■ The CompLeTe Guide To CeramiC TiLe
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■ How to Replace a Floor Tile
1 2 3
With a carbide‑tipped grout saw, If the tile is not already cracked, Insert a chisel into one of the cracks
apply firm but gentle pressure across use a hammer to puncture the tile by and gently tap the tile. Start at the
the grout until you expose the unglazed tapping a nail set or center punch into center and chip outward so you don’t
edges of the tile. Do not scratch the it. Alternatively, if the tile is significantly damage the adjacent tiles. Be aware
glazed tile surface. If the grout is cracked, use a chisel to pry up the tile. that cementboard looks a lot like mortar
stubborn, use a hammer and nail set to when you’re chiseling. Remove and
first tap the tile (step 2). discard the broken pieces. Be sure to
wear eye protection.
4 5 6
Use a putty knife to scrape away old Set a new tile into the empty spot. Fill in around the new tile with grout
thinset mortar; use a chisel for poured Use a notched trowel to apply thinset that matches the grout already on the
mortar installation. If the underlayment mortar to the back of the tile before floor. Because most grout darkens over
is covered with metal lath, you won’t be setting it into place. Make sure all time, choose a shade that’s a bit darker
able to get the area smooth; just clean it debris is cleaned from the floor. Rap than the original color.
out the best you can. Once the mortar is on a carpet‑covered wood block with a
scraped from the underlayment, smooth mallet to set the tile.
the rough areas with sand paper. If there
are gouges in the underlayment, fill
them with epoxy‑based thinset mortar
(for cementboard) or a floor‑leveling
compound (for plywood). Allow the area
to dry completely.
Repair Projects ■ 237
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■ Regrouting Tile
The process of removing old grout and filling the
cleaned joints with new grout is the same for most
ceramic and porcelain tile installations (including
floors, walls, and countertops). For improved adhesion
and waterproofing, use a polymer‑modified grout mix.
it’s important to note that regrouting is an
appropriate repair only for tile that is securely bonded
to its substrate. Several loose tiles in one area indicate
that the mortar has failed or there are problems
(usually moisture‑related) with the substrate. if
multiple tiles are loose, retiling the floor may be your
only option. if a tile job is generally in good shape and
you can find a perfect color match with your old grout,
you can regrout only the affected areas. otherwise, it
will look best to replace all of the grout within an area. Carbide‑blade grout saws are used to remove failing grout.
Before After
Failed grout allows water underneath tiles, which causes the damage to spread rapidly. If the grout lines in your tile floor are
crumbling or a few tiles are loosened, the best solution is to regrout the entire floor.
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■ How to Regrout Floor Tile
1 2
Scrape out the old grout with a grout saw or other tool, Wash the tiled floor with a 1:1 mix of white vinegar and
being careful not to scratch the tile faces or chip the edges. water, paying special attention to the areas around the tile
You may choose to regrout only the filed grout lines for a quick joints. Vacuum the floor first to get rid of all debris.
fix, but for more pleasing results and to prevent color variation
in the grout lines, remove the grout around all tiles and regrout
the entire floor.
3 4
Apply new grout. Prepare grout mix according to the Wipe diagonally across the tiles and grouted joints to
instructions on the package and then pack fresh grout deep remove excess grout and smooth the joints. Seal the grout
into the joints using a rubber grout float. Hold the float at a 30° joints with grout sealer after they’ve dried for a week or so.
angle to the tiled surface. Note: Sealing all the grout joints will help new grout lines blend
with old grout if you’re only doing a partial regrouting.
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Grout Colorant
A vailable in a wide variety of colors, grout colorant

is a topically‑applied, water‑based paint that is
specially designed to recolor, rejuvenate, and seal
prepared, grout joints will be porous and readily
absorb water.
a foam brush applicator is used to carefully work
existing grout mortar joints. the colorant into the grout joints. remove excess
Grout colorant bonds well to sanded colorant immediately from the edges of surrounding
grout mortar making it an ideal solution for tile using a damp rag. dry colorant can be removed
rejuvenating old ceramic tile flooring. For using a damp, white nylon scrub pad.
applications around porous or pitted tiles, use
masking tape to prevent the edges of the tile from
absorbing the colorant. Lighter colorants applied Tools & Materials ▸
over darkened grout joints may require more than
one application. Grout colorant disposable rags
To begin, clean the work area thoroughly, masking tape Cleaning products
removing bond‑inhibiting grease, oil, and calcium Foam brushes Toothbrush
deposits from the surface of the tile and grout. rinse White scrub pad
with clean water and allow it to fully dry. properly
Grout that is in good condition but has

After
simply become stained or discolored can
be refreshed quickly and easily with an
application of grout colorant.
Before
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■ How to Apply Grout Colorant
1 2
Apply grout colorant in thin coats to the grout joints using Work the colorant into the the grout with an old
a foam brush. Clean the tiles and grout thoroughly first, and (but clean!) toothbrush.
make sure the grout lines are dry.
3 Colorizing Grout ▸
Grout colorant can transform an old tile floor into

a vibrant new floor at very little cost. It is sold in a
Use a damp rag or white nylon scrub pad to remove variety of colors. If your local building center doesn’t
excess colorant from the edges of surrounding tile. Allow the carry it, check with a tile shop.
grout colorant to dry completely.
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Repairing Wall Tile
A s we’ve said throughout this book, ceramic wall tile

is durable and nearly maintenance‑free, but like
every other material in your house, it can fail or develop
blocking are available, use special fasteners, such as
toggle bolts or molly bolts, to anchor the accessories
directly to the surface of the underlying wall. To hold
problems. The most common problem with ceramic tile screws firmly in place in ceramic tile walls, drill pilot
involves damaged grout. Failed grout is unattractive, but holes and insert plastic sleeves, which expand when
the real danger is that it offers a point of entry for water, screws are driven into them.
especially in rooms like bathrooms. Given a chance to
work its way beneath grout, water can destroy a tile base
and eventually wreck an entire installation. it’s important
to regrout ceramic tile as soon as you see signs of damage. Tools & Materials ▸
another potential problem for wall tile
installations is damaged caulk. in tub and shower awl masking tape
stalls and around sinks and backsplashes, the joints utility knife Grout
between the tile and the fixtures are sealed with Notched trowel Cloth or rag
caulk. The caulk eventually deteriorates, leaving an Grout float Silicone or latex caulk
entry point for water. unless the joints are recaulked, hammer Sponge
seeping water will destroy the tile base and the wall. Chisel Surface‑mounting
in bathrooms, towel rods, soap dishes, and other Small pry bar hardware
accessories can work loose from walls, especially if eye protection Tile‑cutting tools
they weren’t installed correctly or aren’t supported replacement accessory replacement tile
properly. For maximum holding power, anchor new Tile adhesive
accessories to wall studs or blocking. if no studs or
■ How to Regrout Wall Tile

1 2 3
Use an awl or utility knife to scrape Clean and rinse the grout joints, Wipe away excess grout with a
out the old grout completely, leaving a then spread grout over the entire tile damp sponge. When the grout is dry,
clean bed for the new grout. surface, using a rubber grout float or wipe away the residue and polish the
sponge. Work the grout well into the tiles with a dry cloth.
joints and let it set slightly.
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■ How to Replace Built‑in Wall Accessories
1 2
Carefully remove the damaged accessory. Scrape away Use masking tape to hold the accessory in place while the
any remaining mortar or grout. Apply dry-set tile adhesive adhesive dries. Let the mortar dry completely (12 to 24 hrs.),
to the back side of the new accessory, then press it firmly then grout and seal the area.
in place.
■ How to Replace Surface‑mounted Accessories

1 2
Lift the accessory up and off the mounting plate. If the Put a dab of silicone caulk over the pilot holes and the tips
mounting plate screws are driven into studs or blocking, simply of the screws before inserting them. Let the caulk dry, then
hang the new accessory. If not, add hardware such as molly install the new fixture on the mounting plate.
bolts, toggle bolts, or plastic anchor sleeves.
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■ How to Remove & Replace Broken Wall Tiles
1 2
Carefully scrape away the grout from the surrounding If the tile to be replaced is a cut tile, cut a new one to
joints using a utility knife or an awl. Break the damaged tile match. Test-fit the new tile and make sure it sits flush with the
into small pieces using a hammer and chisel. Remove the field. Spread adhesive on the back of the replacement tile and
broken pieces, then scrape away debris or old mortar from the place it in the hole, twisting it slightly. Use masking tape to hold
open area. the tile in place for 24 hrs. so the adhesive can dry.
3 4
Remove the tape, then apply premixed grout using a sponge Let the grout dry for an hour, then polish the tile with a
or grout float. Let the grout set slightly, then tool it with a clean, dry cloth.
rounded object such as a toothbrush handle. Wipe away
excess grout with a damp cloth.
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Replacing Caulk ▸
Replace all of the old caulking along the
tub or shower edges at the floor, and
essentially anywhere a surface meets
another surface. Don’t add a new layer
of caulk over the old. This just makes
a mess and may hide areas where the
old caulk is failing without providing an
adequate water seal.
Just about any dated tub or shower can benefit from a thorough
cleaning and recaulking of its seals.
■ How to Replace Caulk

A 5‑in‑1 tool works better than a putty
1 or utility knife for removing caulk. Use
the tool’s razor-sharp tooth to slice
caulk from crevices.
Scrub the area with denatured alcohol

2 to remove grime and film from the area.
Filling—but not overfilling—the joint

3 is the key to a neat caulk job. Smooth
the freshly applied caulk with a damp
finger using a very light touch.
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Title:CPI-HI 0606
0606 CG
CG to
to Geramic
Geramic Tile
Tile Third
Third Edn
(RAY)
e:244
e:244 (RAY) Text 07-C57297 #150
#150 DTP:216
DTP:216 Page:245
Page:245
Cleaning Tile & Grout ▸
You spent a considerable amount of time and money on a little elbow grease will remove most stubborn dirt
your new tile installation, so it is only natural that you want deposits. Household floor-cleaning machines with rotating
to take good care of your investment. Fortunately, tile is a brushes will safely scrub tile flooring and grout clean.
low-maintenance product and with proper care it will look Avoid using steam cleaners though, as the hot steam can
new for many years to come. damage grout and remove topically applied colorants
Purchase a dust mop and sweep your floors daily. or sealers.
Place mats in doorways and through walkways to help Long term use of many tile cleaning products can
collect dirt and grime and shake them out frequently. actually harm tile and grout. A quality cleanser should be
In showers and tub tile surrounds, use a squeegee or pH balanced, non-abrasive, and safe for tile surfaces and
towel to wipe excess water off walls after each use. This grout. Most are not. Natural stone and cementitious grouts
will help to prevent spotting and the formation of stain- are especially vulnerable to cleaning products that contain
causing mildew. acid. These types of products should never be used to
Dirt and grime will often accumulate in the textured clean natural stone and their use on ceramic tile and grout
surfaces of tile and grout. A plastic scrub brush and should be limited.
■ Tile Maintenance
To determine if your grout needs to be resealed, test the For heavy stains on natural stone tile, apply poultice
existing sealer by putting a few drops of water on a grout line. made for cleaning porous stone materials. Cover the stain
If the water beads up, the sealer is still working. If the water with the poultice, then tape plastic over it. Let the poulitice set
absorbs into the grout, it needs to be resealed. according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then remove it.
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Glossary
American National Standards Institute (ANSI) — Grout — A dry powder, usually cement based, that is mixed
A standards-making organization that rates tile for with water and pressed into the joints between tiles. Grout
water permeability. also comes with latex or acrylic added for greater adhesion
and impermeability.
Art tiles — Hand-finished tiles with designs, pictures
or patterns. Art tiles are often used to accent a large Impervious — Tile that absorbs less than .5% of its weight
tile layout. in water.
Back buttering — Spreading mortar on the back of a tile Isolation membrane — Isolation membrane is a flexible
before pressing it onto the substrate. material installed in sheets or troweled onto an unstable or
damaged base floor, subfloor, or wall before installing tile.
Baseboard tile — Baseboard-shaped tiles used to replace The isolation membrane prevents shifts in the base from
wood baseboards. damaging the tile above.
Bullnose trim tile — Tile with one rounded edge that is Joists — The framing members that support the floor.
meant to be left exposed.
Kiln — A high-temperature oven used to harden clay tile.
Cement body tile — Tile made from concrete poured
into forms. Liners — Narrow tiles used for adding contrasting lines to
tile layouts.
Coefficient of friction — The measure of a tile’s slip
resistance. Tiles with high numbers are more slip resistant. Listello — A border tile, usually with a raised design. Also
called listel.
Decorative — Tile with designs, pictures, or relief.
Decorative tiles are generally used as accents in a field of Mastic or organic mastic — A type of glue for installing
solid-color tiles. tile. It comes premixed and cures as it dries. It is convenient
for wall tiles smaller than 6 × 6, but it is not suitable
Dry fit — Installing tile without mortar in order to test for floors.
the layout.
Metal tile — Tile made of iron, stainless steel, copper, or
Expansion joint — An expansion joint is a joint in a tile brass. Metal tile is often used as accent tile.
layout filled with a flexible material like caulk instead
of grout. The expansion joint allows the tile to shift Mortar or thin-set mortar — A mixture of portland
without cracking. cement and sand and occasionally a latex or acrylic additive
to improve adhesion.
Field tiles — The main tile in a tile design. As opposed to
trim or accent tiles. Mosaic tile — Small colored tiles used to make patterns or
pictures on walls and floors.
Floor tile — Any type of tile designated for use on floors. It
can generally also be used for walls or countertops. Natural stone tile — Tile cut from marble, slate, granite, or
other natural stone.
Floor-warming systems — A system of heating elements
installed directly under the floor material. Floor-warming Non-vitreous — Very permeable tile. Non-vitreous tile
systems are intended to provide supplemental radiant heat absorbs more than 7% of its total weight in water. Not
for a room. suitable for outdoor installations.
Glass tile — Tile made of translucent glass. Glass tile is Porcelain Enamel Institute (PEI) — A tile industry group
often used as accent tile. that issues ratings on tile’s resistance to wear.
Glazed ceramic — Tile made from refined clay that has Porcelain tile — Tile made from refined white clay fired
been coated with a glaze and then fired in a kiln. at high temperatures. Porcelain is usually dyed rather than
glazed, and thus its color runs the tile’s full thickness.
Grade — Ratings applied to some tile indicating the quality
and consistency of manufacturing. Grade 1 tile is standard, Quarry tile — Tile formed to look like quarried stone.
suitable for most applications; grade 2 may have minor
glaze and size imperfections; grade 3 tile is thin and suitable Reference lines — Lines marked on the substrate to guide
only for wall or decorative applications. the placement of the first row of tile.
Glossary ■ 247
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Saltillo — Terra-cotta tile from Mexico. Saltillos have a Terra-cotta tile — Tile made from unrefined clay. Terra-
distinctly rustic appearance. cotta is fired at low temperature. Its color varies greatly
depending on where the source of the clay.
Sealants — Sealants protect non- and semi-vitreous tile
from stains and from water damage. Sealants are also Trim tile — Tile with a finished edge for completing wall
important for protecting grout. tile layouts.
Self-spacing tile — Tile with attached tabs for maintaining V-cap tiles — V- or L-shaped tile for finishing the exposed
even spacing. edges of countertops.
Semi-vitreous — Moderately permeable tile. Absorbs Vitreous — Slightly permeable tile. Absorbs .5-3% of its
3-7% of its total weight in water. Not suitable for total weight in water.
outdoor installations.
Wall tile — Tile intended for use on walls. It is generally
Spacers — Plastic lugs meant to be inserted between tiles thinner than floor tile and should not be used on floors
to help maintain uniform spacing during installation. or countertops.
Story stick — A length of 1 × 2 lumbar marked with the tile Water absorption or permeability — The measure of the
spacing for a specific layout. amount of water that will penetrate a tile when it is wet.
Measurement ranges from non-vitreous to semi-vitreous to
Subfloor — The surface, usually made of plywood, attached vitreous to impervious.
to the floor joists.
Waterproofing membrane — A flexible, water-proof
Substrates or underlayment — A surface installed on top material installed in sheets or brushed on to protect the
of an existing floor, subfloor, or wall. The substrate creates subfloor from water damage.
a suitable surface for installing tile. Substrate materials
include cementboard, plywood, cork, backerboard,
greenboard, or water-proofing membrane.
Photo Credits
Courtesy of Ceramic Tiles of Italy Courtesy of Oceanside Glasstile TM
p. 8 (lower), 9 (top), 11 (top left) p. 10 (lower left), 24-25 (all)
Crossville Porcelain Store Shutterstock

p. 13 (top left) p. 56 (top), 57 (all), 58 (all), 59 (all), 124 (lower left), 125 (both),
126 (all), 127 (lower right)
Eric Roth
p. 12 (top) Stephen Saks / Index Stock Imagery Inc.
p. 11 (lower)
Courtesy of Hakatai Enterprises, Inc.
p. 9 (lower, left and right) Tim Street-Porter
p. 8 (top), 10 (top right)
Courtesy of Ikea Home Furnishings
p. 10 (lower right) Van Robaeys / Inside / Beateworks.com
p. 13 (top left)
Angela Lanci-Macris
p. 11 (top right), 12 (lower) Brian Vanden Brink
p. 10 (top left)
Courtesy of National Kitchen & Bath Associations
p. 13 (lower)
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(RAY) Text 07-C57713 #150 DTP:216 Page:248
Resources
American Society of Interior Designers KPTiles
202-546-3480 Kristen Phillips
www.asid.org 248-853-0418
www.kptiles.com
Black & Decker
Power tools & Accessories Laticrete
800-544-6986 Floor warming mats & supplies
www.blackanddecker.com 800-243-4788
www.laticrete.com
Ceramic Tiles of Italy
www.italiatiles.com Meredith Collection
330-484-1656
Clay Squared to Infinity www.meredithtile.com
612-781-6409
www.claysquared.com Montana Tile & Stone Co.
406-587-6114
Construction Materials Recycling Association www.montanatile.com
630-585-7530
www.cdrecycling.org National Kitchen & Bath Association (NKBA)
800-843-6522
Cool Tiles www.nkba.org
1-888-TILES-88 (888-845-3788)
www.cooltiles.com Oceanside Glasstile™
760-929-5882
Crossville Porcelain Stone www.glasstile.com
931-484-2110
www.crossvilleceramics.com Red Wing Shoes Co.
Work shoes and boots shown throughout book
Daltile 800-733-9464
800-933-TILE www.redwingshoes.com
www.daltile.com
Snapstone
Energy & Environmental Building Alliance Floating Porcelain Tile System
952-881-1098 877-263-5861
www.eeba.org www.snapstone.com
EuroTile Featuring Villi®Glas The Tile Shop

866-724-5836 888-398-6595
www.villiglasusa.com www.tileshop.com
Fireclay Tile, Inc. Walker & Zanger, Inc.

408-275-1182 www.walkerzanger.com
www.fireclaytile.com
US Environmental Protection Agency, Indoor Air Quality
Hakatai Enterprises, Inc. www.epa.gov/iedweb00/pubs/insidest.html
888-667-2429
www.hakatai.com
IKEA Home Furnishings

610-834-0180
www.Ikea-USA.com
Resources ■ 249
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Measurement Conversions
lumber Dimensions
noMinal ‑ u.S. aCTual ‑ u.S. (in inCheS) MeTRiC noMinal ‑ u.S. aCTual ‑ u.S. (in inCheS) MeTRiC
1×2 3
⁄ 4 × 1 1⁄ 2 19 × 38 mm 1 1⁄ 2 × 4 1 1⁄ 4 × 3 1⁄ 2 32 × 89 mm
1×3 3
⁄ 4 × 2 1⁄ 2 19 × 64 mm 1 1⁄ 2 × 6 1 1⁄ 4 × 5 1⁄ 2 32 × 140 mm
1×4 3
⁄ 4 × 3 1⁄ 2 19 × 89 mm 1 1⁄ 2 × 8 1 1⁄ 4 × 7 1⁄ 4 32 × 184 mm
1×5 3
⁄ 4 × 4 1⁄ 2 19 × 114 mm 11⁄2 × 10 1 1⁄ 4 × 9 1⁄ 4 32 × 235 mm
1×6 3
⁄ 4 × 5 1⁄ 2 19 × 140 mm 11⁄2 × 12 11⁄4 × 111⁄4 32 × 286 mm
1×7 3
⁄ 4 × 6 1⁄ 4 19 × 159 mm 2×4 1 1⁄ 2 × 3 1⁄ 2 38 × 89 mm
1×8 3
⁄ 4 × 7 1⁄ 4 19 × 184 mm 2×6 1 1⁄ 2 × 5 1⁄ 2 38 × 140 mm
1 × 10 3
⁄ 4 × 9 1⁄ 4 19 × 235 mm 2×8 1 1⁄ 2 × 7 1⁄ 4 38 × 184 mm
1 × 12 3
⁄4 × 111⁄4 19 × 286 mm 2 × 10 1 1⁄ 2 × 9 1⁄ 4 38 × 235 mm
1 1⁄ 4 × 4 1 × 3 1⁄ 2 25 × 89 mm 2 × 12 11⁄2 × 111⁄4 38 × 286 mm
1 1⁄ 4 × 6 1 × 5 1⁄ 2 25 × 140 mm 3×6 2 1⁄ 2 × 5 1⁄ 2 64 × 140 mm
1 1⁄ 4 × 8 1 × 7 1⁄ 4 25 × 184 mm 4×4 3 1⁄ 2 × 3 1⁄ 2 89 × 89 mm
11⁄4 × 10 1 × 9 1⁄ 4 25 × 235 mm 4×6 3 1⁄ 2 × 5 1⁄ 2 89 × 140 mm
11⁄4 × 12 1 × 111⁄4 25 × 286 mm
Metric Conversions
To ConveRT: To: MulTiPly by: To ConveRT: To: MulTiPly by:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Ounces Milliliters 30.0 Milliliters Ounces .033
Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (lmp. 0.568) Liters Pints (U.S.) 2.114 (lmp. 1.76)
Quarts (U.S.) Liters 0.946 (lmp. 1.136) Liters Quarts (U.S.) 1.057 (lmp. 0.88)
Gallons (U.S.) Liters 3.785 (lmp. 4.546) Liters Gallons (U.S.) 0.264 (lmp. 0.22)
Ounces Grams 28.4 Grams Ounces 0.035
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Counterbore, Shank & Pilot hole Diameters

SCRew CounTeRboRe DiaMeTeR foR CleaRanCe hole foR PiloT hole DiaMeTeR
Size SCRew heaD (in inCheS) SCRew Shank (in inCheS) haRD wooD (in inCheS) SofT wooD (in inCheS)
#1 .146 (9⁄64) 5
⁄64 3
⁄64 1
⁄32
#2 1
⁄4 3
⁄32 3
⁄64 1
⁄32
#3 1
⁄4 7
⁄64 1
⁄16 3
⁄64
#4 1
⁄4 1
⁄8 1
⁄16 3
⁄64
#5 1
⁄4 1
⁄8 5
⁄64 1
⁄16
#6 5
⁄16 9
⁄64 3
⁄32 5
⁄64
#7 5
⁄16 5
⁄32 3
⁄32 5
⁄64
#8 3
⁄8 11
⁄64 1
⁄8 3
⁄32
#9 3
⁄8 11
⁄64 1
⁄8 3
⁄32
#10 3
⁄8 3
⁄16 1
⁄8 7
⁄64
#11 1
⁄2 3
⁄16 5
⁄32 9
⁄64
#12 1
⁄2 7
⁄32 9
⁄64 1
⁄8
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index
A Block walls, preparing for tiling, Colorizing grout, 240–241
Accent strip for walls, installing 128–129 Concrete resurfacers, applying,
retrofit, 158–161 Brick walls, preparing for tiling, 36–37
Address markers, creating mosaic, 128–129 Concrete surfaces, installing,
218–219 Broken tiles, removing & replacing, ceramic tile/flagstone on, 88–89
Alkaline resistance, 244 Concrete surfaces, installing tiled
importance of, 39 Buff rags, 53 patio on
American National Standards Built-in wall accessories, replacing, about, 200
Institute (ANSI) 242, 243 step-by-step, 201–205
about, 247 Bullnose trim tiles Concrete tiled steps, installing
ratings, 16, 17 for countertop edges, 176 outdoor
Angle grinders, 40, 41 defined, 247 about, 194
Anti-fracture membranes, 42 installing, 87 step-by-step, 195–199
Art Deco, glass tile idea, 24 for outdoor steps, 194 Concrete walls, preparing for tiling,
Art tiles, defined, 247 Buying tiles, 22–25 128–129
Contours, cutting, 203
B C Coping saws, 52
Back buttering, defined, 247 Carpenter’s squares, 51 Corners
Backsplashes Carpet, removing, 67 finishing inside, 133
cutting tiles for, 175 Caulk guns, 53 mitered inside,
ideas, 10, 184 Caulk, replacing, 242, 245 for countertops, 182
options, 171 Cementboard tiles for, 21
Baseboard tiles, defined, 247 about, 38 Countertop backsplashes
Basement floors, installing ceramic cutting, 40–41 cutting tiles for, 175
tile/flagstone on, 88–89 fasteners, 39 ideas, 10, 184
Bathroom floors installing on walls, 134–135 options, 171
ceramic floor tile, installing, 80–87 Cementboard knives, 50 Countertops, ceramic and
combination tile, installing, Cementboard underlayment porcelain tile
106–109 about, 70 about, 169, 170
ideas, 8–9, 10, 12, 13, 24, 124, installing, 71 advantages, 169
125, 126, 138 Cement body tiles, about, 21, 247 anatomy, 171
preparation, 60–63 Ceramic floor tiles, installing building step-by-step, 173–179
radiant floor-warming systems, about, 80 floor tiles for, 16
installing, 74–79 bullnose trim, installing, 87 sheathing requirements, 70
Bathroom projects on concrete, 88–89 tips for laying out tile, 172
mirrors, framing, 214–217 step-by-step, 81–86 Countertops, granite tile
preparation, 60–63 Ceramic floor tiles, removing, 66 about, 180
shower bases, building Ceramic tile countertops installing step-by-step, 181–183
custom-tiled, 114–121 about, 169, 170 Cove tiles
sink bases, creating tiled, 222–225 advantages, 169 about, 21
tub tile aprons, installing, 148–153 anatomy, 171 for outdoor steps, 194
tub tile surrounds, installing, building step-by-step, 173–179 Crack isolation/suppression
142–147 floor tiles for, 16 membranes
Bathroom walls sheathing requirements, 70 about, 42
accent strip tile embellishment, tips for laying out, 172 under glass tiles, 24
installing, 158–161 Ceramic tile fountains, creating thinset mortar and, 44
accessories, replacing, 242–243 about, 206 Custom designs, glass tile idea, 25
broken tiles, removing & anatomy, 207 Custom-tiled shower bases, building
replacing, 244 step-by-step, 208–209 about, 114
caulk, replacing, 242, 245 Ceramic tiles, ratings, 16, 17, 142 anatomy, 115
ideas, 8–9, 10–11, 12, 25, 124– Ceramic wall tiles, removing, 131 deck mud for, mixing, 116
127, 138 Chalk lines, 51 step-by-step, 117–121
regrouting, 242 Chisels, 48 tips for, 115
Bilevel tiled islands, installing Circuit testers, 35 Custom tiles, making, 23
about, 188 Circular saws, 49 Cutting tiles
step-by-step, 189–191 Coefficient of friction, defined, 247 about, 26
Index ■ 251
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holes, 30–31 Floors Grinders, 52
irregular notches, 29 acceptable sheathing materials, Grout
mosaic tiles, 30 70 about, 46
with snap cutter, 26 anatomy, 39, 60 application tips, 46
square notches, 27–28 combination, installing, 106–109 batch preparation, 85
with tile nippers, 29 evaluating, 60–61 cleaning, 246
tools for, 52 ideas, 9–12, 10, 13, 24, 56–59, 107 countertops and, 169, 170
with wet saw, 27 jambs, preparing, 61 defined, 247
levelers, applying, 36–37 floor tile regrouting, 238–239
D maintenance and safety, 236 importance of repairing, 235
Deck mud, mixing, 116 Floor scrapers porous tiles, using with, 205
Decorative tiles, defined, 247 about, 48 resealing test, 246
Diamond blades, 52 using, 64 stained/discolored, fixing,
Discolored grout, fixing, 240–241 Floor tiles 240–241
Dry-cutting, 40 about, 16 thinset mortar, mixing with, 47
Dry fit, defined, 247 for countertops, 170 wall tile regrouting, 242
Dry-set mortar, 44 defined, 247 Grout colorant, 240–241
Dry-set thinset mortar, 44 estimating amount needed, 22 Grout floats, 53
Drywall squares, 50 ratings, 16
regrouting, 238–239 H
E replacing, 237 Hallway floors
Edges of countertops, options, 171 thickness, 16 ideas, 10, 58
Electricity on walls, 17 stone and mosaic tile floor,
for ceramic tile fountains, 206, Floor-warming systems setting, 90–95
209 about, 74 Hand-held tile cutters, 52
for radiant floor-warming systems, defined, 247 Handmade tiles, making
74, 76, 79 electricals, 74, 76, 79 about, 226
safety, 34, 35 installing step-by-step, 76–79 step-by-step, 227–229
End-cutting nippers, 48 installing, tips for, 75 Hand mauls, 48
Entryways Foam brushes, 53 Heat guns, 48
ideas, 9, 10 Holes
stone and mosaic tile floor, G cutting, marking for, 30
setting, 90–95 Garden benches, making tiled cutting, using drill, 31
Expansion joints, defined, 247 about, 230–231 cutting, using hole saw, 31
step-by-step, 232–233 patching, 129
F GFCI receptacles Holes saws, 31, 40, 41
Fasteners for cementboard, 39 for radiant floor-warming
Fiber/cement backer boards. systems, 74 I
See Entries beginning with safety and, 35 Impervious, defined, 247
cementboard Glasses for safety, 34 Impervious floor tile, 16
Fiberglass mesh tape, 39 Glass mosaic tile floors, installing Inside corner bead, 133
Field tiles about, 96 Islands, installing kitchen
defined, 247 obstacles, working around, 99 tiled bi-level, 188–191
estimating amount needed, 22 step-by-step, 97–99 Isolation membranes
Fireplace surrounds Glass tiles about, 42
about, 162 about, 18 defined, 247
idea, 8 as border, 24 installing, 73
installing step-by-step, 163–164 color, 24, 25 thinset mortar and, 44
installing step-by-step with wood defined, 247
border, 165–167 installing, 24 J
First aid kits, 35 Glazed ceramic tiles Jigsaws, 40, 41, 49
Flagstone, installing on concrete, about, 18 Joists, defined, 247
88–89 for countertops, 170
Flat pry bars, 48 defined, 247 K
Floor coverings, removing Gloves for safety, 34 Kiln, defined, 247
about, 64 Glues, 247 Kitchen backsplashes
carpet, 67 Grade, defined, 247 cutting tiles for, 175
ceramic tile, 66 Granite tile countertops ideas, 10, 184
sheet vinyl, 65 about, 180 options, 171
underlayment, 68–69 installing step-by-step, 181–183 Kitchen floors
vinyl tile, 66 Granite tiles, keeping clean, 58 combination, installing, 106–109
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ideas, 56, 57, 58 N tips for laying out tile, 172
Kitchen islands, installing Natural stone tiles Porcelain tiles, about, 18
tiled bi-level, 188–191 about, 19 Portable drills, 49
Kitchen walls cleaning stains on, 246 Premixed thinset mortar, 45
broken tiles, removing & for countertops, 169 Primers, 36
replacing, 244 defined, 247
ideas, 13 Needlenose pliers, 53 Q
regrouting, 242 NIOSH-approved respirators, 34 Quarry tiles, defined, 247
Nippers, using, 29, 31
L Non-vitreous tiles R
Latex caulk, 193 defined, 247 Radiant-warming systems (floor)
Latex gloves for safety, 34 for floors, 16 about, 74
Latex-modified grout Notches, cutting defined, 247
about, 46 irregular, 29 electricals, 74, 76, 79
application tips, 46 square, 27–28 installing step-by-step, 76–79
thinset mortar, mixing with, 47 installing, tips for, 75
Latex-modified thinset mortar, 45 O Reference lines
Laundry room floor idea, 56 Old surfaces, tools for removing, 48 defined, 247
Layout, tools for, 51 Organic mastic (glue), defined, 247 importance of perpendicular, 136
Levelers Outdoor tiled steps, installing tools for marking, 51
about, 36 about, 194 Resilient tile combination floors,
applying, 37 step-by-step, 195–199 about, 106
Levels, 51 Outlets, testing, 35 Respirators, NIOSH-approved, 34
Liners, defined, 247 Out-of-plumb walls, correcting, 129, Resurfacers, applying, 36–37
Listello/listel, defined, 247 136 Retrofit accent strip for walls,
Living area floor ideas, 58, 59 installing, 158–161
P Rotary tools, 40, 41
M Patio ideas, 8, 10 Rubber mallets, 53
Mastic (glue), defined, 247 Patios, installing tiled on slab
Mesh tape, 39 about, 200 S
Metal tiles step-by-step, 201–205 Safety
about, 19 Permeability basics, 34
defined, 247 defined, 248 dry-cutting, 40
Mirrors, creating tiled bathroom floor tile ratings, 16 during underlayment removal, 68
about, 214 wall tile ratings, 17 electricity and, 34, 35
ideas, 214–215 Perpendicular reference lines, equipment, 34
step-by-step, 215–217 importance of, 136 first aid kits, 35
Modified thinset mortar, 44 Planters, creating mosaic, 212–213 floor maintenance, 236
Moisture Plaster, removing, 131 removing wall surfaces, 130
barriers for walls, 134 Plumbing safety, 34 slip resistant floor tile ratings, 16
outdoor tile projects and, 193 Plywood underlayment, tools, 35
Mortar, defined, 247 institution, 72 Saltillo tiles, about, 11, 248
Mosaic address markers, creating, Polymer-modified grout Saws for cutting cementboard,
218–219 about, 46 40–41
Mosaic floors application tips, 46 Scoring tools, 40, 41
designing & installing, 100–104, thinset mortar, mixing with, 47 Screwheads and underlayment
105 Polymer-modified thinset mortar, 45 removal, 68
glass, installing, 96–99 Porcelain Enamel Institute (PEI) Screws, 39
stone and mosaic tile floor, about, 247 Sealants, defined, 248
setting, 90–95 ratings, 16, 17 Sealer applicators, grout, 53
tips for working with, 105 Porcelain snap-lock tile floors Self-leveling underlayment/cement
Mosaic planters, creating, 212–213 about, 110 about, 36
Mosaic tiles damaged tiles, replacing, 113 applying, 37
about, 20 installing step-by-step, 111–113 Self-spacing tiles, defined, 248
backsplash idea, 184 Porcelain tile countertops Self-spacing wall tiles, 17
cutting, 30 about, 169, 170 Semi-vitreous tiles
defined, 247 advantages, 169 defined, 248
ideas, 10, 13, 24, 90 anatomy, 171 floor tile ratings, 16
See also Glass tiles building step-by-step, 173–179 sealants and, 248
Mosaic wall hanging, creating, floor tiles for, 16 wall tile ratings, 17
220–221 sheathing requirements, 70 Sheathing for countertops, 70
Index ■ 253
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Sheathing for floors, 70 Tile nippers step-by-step, 155–157
Sheet vinyl, removing, 65 about, 52 Tile walls, tiling over, 128–129
Short-nap rollers, 36 using, 29, 31, 203 T-molding, 43
Shower bases, building custom-tiled Tiled backsplashes, installing Toilets, removing, 62
about, 114 about, 184 Tools
anatomy, 115 step-by-step, 185–187 for cutting cementboard, 40–41
deck mud for, mixing, 116 Tiled garden benches, making for cutting tiles, 52
step-by-step, 117–121 about, 230–231 for installing substrates, 50
tips for, 115 step-by-step, 232–233 for layout, 51
Sink bases, creating tiled, 222–225 Tiled islands, installing bi-level for removing old surfaces, 48
Sinks, removing, 63 about, 188 for repairing substrates, 49
Slip resistant floor tile ratings, 16 step-by-step, 189–191 safety and, 35
Snap cutters, using, 26 Tiled mirrors, creating bathroom for setting & grouting, 53
Sound isolation membranes, 42 about, 214 Transition strips, 43
Spacers, defined, 248 ideas, 214–215 Trim tiles
Spiral cutting saws, 40, 41 step-by-step, 215–217 defined, 248
Sponges, grout, 53 Tiled patios, installing on slab estimating amount needed, 22
Square notches about, 200 types, 21
cutting, 28 step-by-step, 201–205 See also Bullnose trim tiles
marking, 27 Tiled sink base, creating Trowels
Stains, fixing about, 223 about, 50
on grout, 240–241 idea, 222 for setting & grouting, 53
on natural stone tile, 246 step-by-step, 223–225 thinset mortar application and, 45
Stair riser idea, 10 Tiled steps, installing outdoor Tub tile apron, installing
Steps, installing outdoor tiled about, 194 about, 148
about, 194 step-by-step, 195–199 step-by-step, 149–153
step-by-step, 195–199 Tiled tub apron, installing Tub tile surround, installing
Stone tile floors about, 148 about, 142
about, 90 step-by-step, 149–153 idea, 143
setting, 91 Tiled tub surround, installing step-by-step, 144–147
Story sticks, defined, 248 about, 142
Straightedges, 49, 51 idea, 143 U
Subfloor, defined, 248 step-by-step, 144–147 Uncoupling membranes, 42
Substrates Tiles Underlayment
for countertops, 169, 170, 173 buying, 22–25 about, 70
defined, 248 cleaning, 246 cementboard, installing, 71
membranes and, 42 estimating amount needed, 22 for countertops, 70
sealing, 36 making handmade, 226–229 defined, 248
stability of wall, 128 resealing, 246 importance of, 60
tools for installing, 50 self-spacing, defined, 248 isolation membrane, installing, 73
tools for repairing, 49 using color lots, 23 maintaining, 136
See also Cementboard using grout with porous, 205 plywood, installing, 72
Subway tile idea, 12 Tiles, cutting removing, 68–69
Surface-mounted wall accessories, about, 26 self-leveling, applying, 36–37
replacing, 242, 243 holes, 30–31 Utility knives, 50
irregular notches, 29 Utility room floor idea, 56
T mosaic tiles, 30
Tape, 39 with snap cutters, 26 V
Tape measures, 51 square notches, 27–28 Vanities, removing, 63
Terra-cotta tiles with tile nippers, 29 V-cap tiles, defined, 248
about, 20 tools for, 52 Vinyl tile combination floors
defined, 248 with wet saws, 27 about, 106
Thinset mortar Tile saws idea, 107
about, 44–45 described, 52 installing step-by-step, 108–109
defined, 247 using, 27 Vinyl tile, removing, 66
grout, mixing with, 47 using to cut contours, 203 Vitreous floor tiles
Three-season porch floor idea, 57 Tile spacers, 53 defined, 248
Tile backers, about, 38 Tile stones, 52 rating, 16
Tile cutters, 52 Tile wall niche, building
Tile membranes, 42 about, 155 W
See also specific types idea, 154 Wallboard
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234-256_C57713.indd 254 7/9/10 3:07:56 PM
installing & finishing, 132–133
removing, 130
Wall hangings, creating mosaic,
220–221
Walls
accent strip tile embellishment,
installing, 158–161
anatomy, 130
block, preparing for tiling, 128–
129
brick, preparing for tiling, 128–129
cementboard, installing on,
134–135
ceramic wall tile, removing, 131
checking & correcting out-of-
plumb, 129, 136
evaluating and preparing, 128
floor tiles on, 17
plaster, removing, 131
wallboard, removing, 130
See also specific rooms
Wall tile ratings, 17
Wall tile repairs
accessories, replacing built-in &
surface-mounted, 242–243
broken tiles, removing &
replacing, 244
caulk, replacing, 242, 245
regrouting, 242
Wall tiles
about, 17
defined, 248
estimating amount needed, 22
layouts, 136–137
thickness and weight, 17
Wall tiles, installing
about, 138
step-by-step, 139–141
Warming systems (radiant floor)
about, 74
defined, 247
electricals, 74, 76, 79
installing step-by-step, 76–79
installing, tips for, 75
Water absorption
defined, 248
floor tile ratings, 16
wall tile ratings, 17
Waterproof membranes, about,
42, 248
Wet saws
described, 52
using, 27
using to cut contours, 203
Wood bordered fireplace surround,
installing, 165–167
Wood subfloor requirements, 70
Work gloves, 34
Index ■ 255
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CrEATIVE PUBLISHING international
NOTE TO READERS
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234-256_C57713.indd 256 7/9/10 3:07:23 PM

234-256_C57713.indd 256 7/9/10 3:07:56 PM
Copyright © 2010 President/CEO: Ken Fund
Creative Publishing international, Inc.
400 First Avenue North, Suite 300 Home Improvement Group
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55401
1-800-328-0590 Publisher: Bryan Trandem
www.creativepub.com Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley
All rights reserved Senior Editor: Mark Johanson
Printed in China Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare

Art Direction/Design: Jon Simpson, Brad Springer, James Kegley
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Lead Photographer: Joel Schnell
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Production Managers: Laura Hokkanen, Linda Halls
The complete guide to ceramic tile. -- 3rd ed., with DVD.
p. cm. Edition Editor: Carter Glass
At head of title: Black & Decker. Page Layout Artist: Danielle Smith
Includes index. Copy Editor: Betsy Matheson Symanietz
Rev. ed. of: The complete guide to ceramic & stone tile. Proofreader: Drew Siqveland
Summary: “Provides information for do-it-yourself tile projects for
the home, including floors, walls, bathrooms, kitchens, and
outdoors”--Provided by publisher.
ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-563-2 (soft cover)
ISBN-10: 1-58923-563-0 (soft cover)
1. Tile laying--Amateurs’ manuals. 2. Tiles--Amateurs’ manuals. I.
Creative Publishing International. II. Black & Decker Corporation
(Towson, Md.) III. Complete guide to ceramic & stone tile.
TH8531.C65 2010
698--dc22
2010020980
The Complete Guide to Ceramic Tile

Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc., in cooperation with Black & Decker.
Black & Decker® is a trademark of The Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher
and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse
of the information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
your project.
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Updated with New Products & Techniques

001-053_C57297.indd 1 8/3/10 3:12:43 PM

(RAY) Text Job:06-19686 Title:CPI-HI 0606 CG to Geramic Tile Third Edn

Gallery of Tile Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Ceramic Tile Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Buying Tile & Tiling Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Materials & Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 88

Materials: Levelers & Resurfacers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Materials: Tile Backer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

Materials: Tile Membranes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

Materials: Thinset Mortar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

Tools for Removing Old Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Tools for Repairing Substrates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

Tools for Installing Substrates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Tools for Layout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

Tools for Cutting Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 56 56

Tools for Setting & Grouting Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

Gallery of Flooring Tile Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

Evaluating & Preparing Floors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

Removing Floor Coverings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

001-053_19686.indd 3 6/20/10 10:18:37 AM

Stone & Mosaic Tile Floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90

Glass Mosaic Tile Floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96

DIY Mosaic Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100

Combination Tile Floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106

Porcelain Snap-lock Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 123

Shower Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114

Wall Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123

Gallery of Wall Tile Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124

Evaluating & Preparing Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128

Removing Wall Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130

Installing Cementboard on Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134

Wall Tile Layouts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136

Installing Wall Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138

Installing a Tub Tile Surround . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142

Tiled Tub Apron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148

Tile Wall Niche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155

Retrofit Accent Strip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159

Fireplace Surround . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162

Tile Countertop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170

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(RAY) Text Job:06-19686 Title:CPI-HI 0606 CG to Geramic Tile Third Edn

Tiled Backsplash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184

Tiled Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188

Outdoor Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193

Tiled Steps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194

Tiled Patio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200

Outdoor Fountain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206

Decorative Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211

Bathroom Mirror Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214

Address Marker Mosaic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218

Mosaic Wall Hanging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220

Tiled Sink Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223

Handmade Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226

Repair Projects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235

Maintaining Floor Tile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236

Grout Colorant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240