Our mini-tractor's first implement will work with any Category 0 tractor hitch!

A HOMEBREWED SCRAPE BLADE

Just last year, in MOTHER NO. 78 (on gauge rectangular tubular steel base (mea- opening (it must be centered over that
page 172), we completed a three-part fea- suring 1-5/8" X 4" X 21-1/2") that's fas- axis).
ture article about a sturdy homebuilt mini- tened at right angles to a 1-5/8" X 4" X At this point, you can make up the hori-
tractor that our research crew put together 18-1/4" arm made of the same material. Of zontal pivot shaft by grinding and drilling a
for about half the price of the factory-made course, if you have stock of another size ly- 1-1/2" X 5-1/2" cold-rolled rod . . . forming
offerings. The photos included in that piece ing around, use it . . . because a substantial a 45° l/2"-deep bevel at one end and a 1/4"
depicted a handy little Category 0 scrape piece of square, round, or even channel hole through the other. Weld the beveled
blade that, if you remember, we promised steel will work just as well. end of this shaft to the 1/2" X 4" X 6"
to detail in a future issue . . . and, with the On the upper surface of the main frame swivel-bracket section (the "slice" offers an
winter season upon us, we thought that now we've installed a top link wishbone formed increased surface area to assure a strong
would be a perfect time to describe the from a 27" length of 1-3/4 "-diameter tub- joint), and fasten that piece to the rear of
construction of that particularly versatile ing. The crown of this hoop-shaped hanger the blade frame's arm.
implement. should be about 10 inches above the base You'll now need to fabricate two 1/2" X
The heart of our budget blade is nothing beam, and a pair of 1/4" X 1-1/2" X 2-1/2" 8" round steel disks (for the vertical pivot)
more than a 12" X 48" section cut from the top link pin brackets must be welded above and a 1/2" X 5-1/2" disk to serve as the hori-
wall of a discarded water-heater tank. With this. (To position them correctly, use the zontal pivot plate. The 5-1/2 "-diameter
its fairly heavy-gauge material and ideal rod end joint on the top link as a drilling component should be given a 1-1/2" center
contour, it provides an excellent starting and spacing guide). Although we employed hole, and then a 1-1/2" X 3-3/8" section of
point, but be aware that—unless you can lo- a section of preformed roll bar when build- pipe—the horizontal pivot collar—must be
cate a 66- or 82-gallon "highboy"-style tank ing this wishbone, muffler tubing or 1/2" aligned and welded over the opening. Next,
(these models have a diameter of at least flat bar stock—bent to shape—could serve bevel and drill the 1-1/2" X 11" vertical
20", and a length of 48" or more)—you'll the same purpose. pivot shaft just as you did the horizontal
have to cut two sections from a short, squat The ends of the main frame are capped pinion, and attach it perpendicularly to the
tank (30-, 40-, or 52-gallon capacity), and with 1/4" X 1-1/2" X 4" plates . . . but, be- horizontal pivot collar, taking care not to
then weld them together to achieve the fore beading them in place, you'll have to extend the bead any farther down the rod
desired dimensions. Keep in mind, too, that center-drill them with a 5/8" bit and weld than is necessary to fill the joint.
galvanized vessels give off harmful fumes the 5/8" X 3" hitch pins from the back side. The lower half of the vertical swivel
when welded, so you may want to limit A third, undrilled, plate covers the front bracket can now be formed from a 1/2" X
your search to standard black steel tanks. end of the frame's arm. 2-1/2" X 6-1/2" section of flat plate. When
To prevent the blade from flexing under Like any conventional scraping blade, that's done, the steel crescent can be
stress, you'll need to weld stiffeners to its ours is designed to pivot on both a horizon- clamped to one of the 1/2" X 8" disks you
back to form a perimetric framework. The tal and a vertical plane to execute various made previously, and three 1/2" holes can
horizontal ones are 45-1/2" long, and can be kinds of cuts. Start fabricating the horizon- be drilled through both pieces—spaced
made from 1/4" X1" angle iron. The ver- tal pivot by cutting the three 1/2" X 6" 1-3/4" apart—near the edge. Then separate
tical braces—which have to assume the swivel-bracket sections to 1", 2", and 4" the pieces . . . drill a 1-1/2" bore through
curve of the tank—can be either cut from widths as shown in the diagram (J, K, and the center of the full circle . . . weld the
1/4" plate or formed (with heat) from 1/4" L). Clamp the 2" and 4" pieces together 1-1/2" X 2" vertical bracket collar over that
X 1-1/4" X 12" flat stock. and drill the three 1/2" locking pin holes hole . . . slip this assembly over the vertical
Once all that's done, you can tackle the (1-1/2 inches apart and on a 2-1/4" radius), pivot shaft and join both pipe collars to-
blade's main frame. It consists of an 11- then use a 1-1/2" hole saw to bore another gether at their union . . . and go on to weld
the collars and the internal shaft together as
one, using a full, penetrating bead.
MATERIAL PURPOSE (LOCATION) Next, lift the entire assembly and slide it
onto the horizontal pivot shaft, and lock it
water-heater tank wall scraper blade (A) in place with a flat washer and a cotter pin.
(2) 1/4" X 1 " X 45-1/2" angle iron horizontal blade stiffeners (B) (This washer, as well as the one you'll later
(2) 1/4" X 1-1/4" X 12" flat stock vertical blade stiffeners (C) use on the vertical shaft, can be made from
1-5/8" X 4" X 21-1/2" 11-gauge main frame base (D) 1/4" plate and center-bored with a 1-1/2"
rectangular tubular steel metal-cutting hole saw.)
1-5/8" X 4" X 18-1/4" 11-gauge main frame arm (E)
Now, you're ready to finish up the hori-
rectangular tubular steel
zontal swivel bracket by fastening the back
1-3/4" X 27" steel tubing top link wishbone (F)
(2) 1/4" X 1-1/2" X 2-1/2" flat stock top link pin brackets (G)
and the top pieces to the 1/2" X 4" X 6"
(3) 1/4" X 1-1/2" X 4" flat stock main frame end plates (H)
component, thereby forming a housing
(2) 5 / 8 " X 3" cold-rolled rod hitch pins (I)
around the horizontal pivot plate. That
1/2" X 1 " X 6" flat plate horizontal swivel bracket (J) semicircular unit can then be drilled—using
1 / 2 " X 2" X 6" Hat plate horizontal swivel bracket (K) the holes already in the bracket as a guide—
1/2" X 4" X 6" flat plate horizontal swivel bracket (L) allowing the blade to be set at a number of
1-1/2" X 5-1/2" cold-rolled rod horizontal pivot shaft (M) horizontal angles. (Start by making the ini-
1/2" X 4" X 5-1/2" flat plate horizontal pivot plate (N) tial 1/2" hole that will position the scraper
1-1/2" X 3-3/8" Schedule 40 pipe horizontal pivot collar (0) at dead level . . . then, to the right and left
1/2" X 8" flat plate vertical swivel bracket (P) of that, make two more receivers 3/4 inch
1/2" X 2-1/2" X 6-1/2" flat plate vertical swivel bracket (Q) away, and drill the last two openings at
1/2" X 1" X 8" flat plate vertical swivel bracket (R) points 3/16 inch from the second two.)
1-1/2" X 1 1 " cold-rolled rod vertical pivot shaft (S) The vertical swivel bracket is made in
1/2" X 8" flat plate vertical pivot plate (T) much the same way. First, bore a 1-1/2"
1-1/2" X 7" Schedule 40 pipe vertical pivot collar (U) opening in the center of your last 8 "-diam-
1-1/2" X 2" Schedule 40 pipe vertical bracket collar (V) eter disk, then weld the 1-1/2" X 7" pipe
(2) 1/4" X 2-1/2" flat plate flat washers (W)
over that hole. Slide this collar-and-plate
(2) 1/4" X 2" cotter pins cotter pins (X)
assembly onto the vertical pivot shaft, and
(2) 1/4" X 4-1/2" X 7" flat plate blade-fastening gussets (Y)
hold it with the flat washer and a cotter pin,
as before.
158 THE MOTHER EARTH NEWS"
 With that done, form the curved part of er can be completely turned around if the pattern to 1/4" plate steel, and cut out
the vertical bracket from a 1/2" X 1" X 8" necessary. the parts. Weld them between the collar
flat plate (which should match the contour To attach the blade to the frame, you'll and the upper half of the blade . . . and your
of an 8"-diameter circle), and weld it to first have to hitch that carriage to the rear of implement is complete!
both the crescent-shaped piece you cut ear- your tractor, using the side pins and the top Of course, you'll need to make two lock-
lier and the 1/2" X 8"-round vertical brack- link as you would normally. Level the ing pins from 1/2" X 2" bolts (bent sections
et component already fastened to the collar frame, then lay the blade in position against of 1/4" rod welded to the heads make nice
. . . with the 1/2" X 8" vertical pivot plate the vertical pivot collar with the bottom handles), and you'll probably want to paint
between. Once more, drill a series of 1/2" edge forward of the top one (assuming, nat- the blade and frame. Other than that,
holes through the pivot plate so that the urally, that the concave surface is toward though, the only addition you might consid-
blade can be angled . . . but this time repeat the front). Now, make a cardboard template er is a 1/4" X 2" X 48" face bar, to save the
the set, positioning these end series directly of the two blade-fastening gussets to make water tank skin's cutting edge from exces-
opposite your first group so that the scrap- sure that the contours are correct, transfer sive wear under rough conditions. S
[1] The homebuilt blade can be used to push—
or draw—with equal ease. [2] A vertical pivot
allows a full range of scrape angles for such
tasks as grading and smoothing. Note the rein-
forcing framework at the blade's edges, [3] A
horizontal pivot enables the cutter to be used
jor shallow ditching and crowning.

TRACTOR SCRAPE BLADE

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 1983 159