Plastering

The plastering is the method of covering uneven

surfaces with a plastic material to obtain an even, smooth,
regular, clean and durable surface. Plastering conceals
defective workmanship and covers up unsound and
cheap quality material.
Often, plastering is required to provide a satisfactory
base for decorating the surface by white-washing, color
washing, distempering or painting.
External plastering also termed as 'rendering' is done
with the object of improving the resistance of the surface to
rain water penetration and other atmospheric influences.
 Plastering

The plastic material or plaster is made by working

together a mixture of binding materials which may be
cement, lime or clay, fine aggregates (usually sand)
and water. Certain additives are sometimes added to
improve its adhesiveness, durability and luster.
When cement is used as the binding material, the
plaster is termed as cement plaster and when lime is
used as the binding material, it is called lime plaster.
Classification of Plaster
➢ Cement plaster
➢ Lime plaster
➢ Mud plaster
➢ Plaster on lath
➢ Stucco plaster
➢ Water proof plaster
CEMENT PLASTER
Cement plaster forms an ideal coating for external
renderings. It is specially suited for damp conditions
(bathrooms, etc.) where non absorbent wall surface is essential.
Cement plaster is usually applied in one coat.
The thickness of coat can be 12 mm, 15 mm or 20 mm
depending upon the site conditions and type of building.
Sometimes, when the thickness of plaster is more than 15 mm.
or when it is desired to have finer finish, plaster is applied in
two coats.
In case of plastering with one coat, cement plaster is
applied on the prepared surface between the screed with
mason's trowel. The surface is levelled by means of wooden
float and straight edges and finally polished with a trowel.
Fig: Trowel
Fig.: Wooden float
CEMENT PLASTER
In case plastering is required to be done in two
coats, the first coat is applied as described above with
the only difference that the plastered surface is not
polished. The surface of the first coat when set (not
dry) is roughened with a scratching tool to form a key
for the 2nd or finishing coat. The finishing coat is then
applied over the first coat surface (made rough and
damp), within 48 hours. This coat is then troweled and
the surface finished smooth. The plaster should be kept
wet (cured) for at least 7 days.
 LIME PLASTER
Lime used in plastering may be Hydraulic lime
(Hydraulic limes sets by hydration so it can set under water)
and non-hydraulic lime (Non-hydraulic lime sets
by carbonatation and so needs exposure to carbon dioxide
in the air). Hydraulic lime on the other hand yields harder
and stronger plaster, but it may contain some unslaked
particles which may slake slowly (may be in 8 to 12 months)
on absorbing moisture from atmosphere and damage the
plastering by forming blisters. As a precaution the
hydraulic lime, if used, should be ground dry with sand; left
for about 2 or 3 weeks and then reground before Use.
APPLICATION OF LIME PLASTER
▪ It is usual to provide 13 mm and 16 mm thick plaster on
plain side and rough side of one brick thick walls
respectively.
▪ Plaster may be applied in one, two or three coats on the
prepared wall between the screed with the help of trowel.
▪ In the one coat treatment mortar is applied in a uniform
surface slightly more than the specified thickness. This is
then beaten with thin strips of bamboo to ensure thorough
filling of joints and finally brought to a true surface.
▪ During the process of finishing, a solution of lime putty is
applied on the surface to make the surface smooth and
workable. The finished surface is then cured for at least
seven days.
APPLICATION OF LIME PLASTER
▪In case it is desired to apply plaster in more than
one coat, the first coat, also known as rough coat, is
applied on the surface in a layer of 6 to 10 mm in
thickness. In the first coat the mortar is dashed
against the surface to serve as a key to hold the
next coats.
▪Second coat is then applied over the first coat after
the latter has set and roughened. Mortar for
second coat is well pressed and rubbed with
wooden straight edge to obtain the desired surface.
The thickness of layer of mortar in 2nd coat varies
between 6 to 10 mm.
 MUD PLASTER

This type of plastering is commonly seen in

kuccha construction in villages and in other
structures of temporary character. This is the
cheapest form of plastering. Mud to be used for
plastering should be made from earth free form
grass, gravels, stone etc. All the clods in the
earth should be broken and reduced to a fine
powder.
 STUCCO PLASTERING
Stucco is the name given to a decorative type of
plaster which gives an excellent finish. The surface
plastered with stucco compares very much with marble
finish both in smoothness and elegance. Stucco plaster
can be used for both interior as well as exterior
surfaces. It is usually laid in three coats making the
total thickness of the plaster to about 25mm.
➢The first coat is the Scratch Coat
➢The second is a Finer Coat (Brown Coat)
➢ The third is the White Coat (Finishing Coat)
PLASTER ON LATH

Lathing may be either of wood or that of expanded

metal. Wooden lath is used for forming a ground for
plastering timber partition walls and ceilings of
timber floors. Wooden laths are liable to decay or got
attacked by ants and hence they are rarely used.
Wooden lath consists of thin strips of well seasoned
wood, about 25mm. in width and 90 to 120 cm. in
length. Depending upon the strain due to load of
plaster, thickness of strips vary from 3mm to 13mm.
PREPARATION OF SURFACE FOR
PLASTERING
▪ The durability of plaster depends to a great extent upon its
adhesion with the back-ground. The preparation of surface
for plastering is therefore of prime importance.
▪ All the projections which extend by more than 13 mm from
the general surface of the masonry wall face are knocked off
to obtain a uniform surface and this also helps to reduce
consumption of plaster.
▪ In order to obtain a good key for the plaster with the wall
surface, all the joints in the masonry are raked out for a
depth of at least 13 mm.
▪ Dust and loose mortar is brushed out of the raked joints.
The surface is rendered free from oily greasy spots.
PREPARATION OF SURFACE FOR
PLASTERING
▪ Efflorescence, if any, is removed by brushing and scraping.
▪ In case of old walls, the smoothness of the surface is
destroyed by hacking it with some tool. The surface is then
thoroughly washed with water and kept wet before
plastering is commenced.
▪ To ensure required thickness and a true surface, patches of
plaster 15 cm. X 15 cm. are first of all applied horizontally
and vertically at about 1.8 m. apart over the entire surface.
The surface of the patches of plaster (also known as screed)
serves as gauges for maintaining even thickness of the
plaster being applied. Mortar is then applied on the wall
between the screed with trowel.
SPECIAL TYPES OF FINISHING
The plastered surfaces may be finished in a variety of forms. The
types of finishing treatments, usually adopted for external surfaces, a
briefly given below:
(a) Smooth cast
(b) Rough cast
(c) Pebble dash
(d) Scrapped finish
(e) Textured finish
 Rough Coat Pebbled dash

Scrapped finish Textured finish

 DEFECTS IN PLASTER WORK
The following defects may occur in plaster work:
1. Cracking
This consists in formation of cracks in plaster which may be on
account of the following:
(i) Old surface not being properly prepared.
(ii) Movements in the backing either on account of thermal ex-
pansion or due to shrinkage caused by the drying of the backing
material. To avoid this backing surface should be allowed to dry
before applying the plaster.
(iii) Movement in the plaster itself on account of the expansion (in
case of gypsum plaster) or shrinkage of the plaster coat (in case
of lime-sand plaster) during drying.
(iv) Excessive shrinkage of plaster due to the application of mortar
in thick coats.
DEFECTS IN PLASTER WORK

2. Blowing or blistering of plaster

This consists in formation of small patches of plaster swelling out beyond the
plastered surface and are chiefly due to improper slaking of lime particles in
the plaster. After the application of plaster, the unslaked particles in the lime
start slaking and thus the defect takes place. Properly slaked lime should
therefore, be used to prevent blistering.
3. Falling out of plaster
This defect may arise due to the following reasons:
(i) The adhesion of the plaster to the back-ground may not be perfect.
(ii) The suction of the backing material may not be uniform. At places where the
backing material absorbs excessive amount of water, the plaster loses its
strength as well as the mechanical bond between the two surfaces.
(iii) Excessive thermal changes in plaster or backing.
(iv) In-adequate curing of the plaster.
DEFECTS IN PLASTER WORK

4. Efflorescence
If soluble salts are present in bricks or the mortar they absorb moisture from
atmosphere and go into solution which appears on the surface in the form of whitish
substance as the moisture dries out and the salts crystallize. The surface gets
disfigured and concentrated stains present an ugly appearance. Efflorescence may
occur on brick work or on the surface of plaster.
Efflorescence on the surface is unlikely to cause any real damage to the brick unless
the quantity of soluble salts present is abnormally takes place within the brick; it can
result in the disintegration of material and cause severe flaking of the plastered
surface.

Prevention
Efflorescence on surface can be removed to some extent brushing and washing the
surface repeatedly. In case of brick work, salts can be removed, by applying solution or
zinc sulphate and water and then brushing off the surface when dry.
In another method a solution consisting of one part of hydrochloric or sulphuric acid
diluted with 5 parts of water is applied on surface with the scrubbing brush. The
surface is then thoroughly washed and rendered clean and dry.