SPOTLIGHT

SOUTH KOREA’S MEGA-PROSPEROUS

CAPITAL CITY WELCOMES VISITORS
WITH ANCIENT PALACES, DYNAMIC NIGHTLIFE,
AND A DINING CULTURE EQUAL TO ANY IN ASIA.
BY VICTORIA DE SILVERIO PHOTOGRAPHS BY DOUG BRUCE
ISTOCKPHOTO.COM
PHOTOS.COM

World Trade Tower (left) and

Seoul after dark the COEX Convention Center

46 Fall 2010 ShermansTravel.com/SmartLuxury ShermansTravel.com/SmartLuxury Fall 2010 47

 Downtown

Jeju airport crossing guard

Sanchon’s temple cuisine

Changdeokgung Palace, constructed
during the Joseon dynasty
COMBINE WITH A TRIP TO JEJU ISLAND
skyscrapers. South of the Han are financial districts and affluent Jeju is an island of threes. Locals have given their volcanic island off
neighborhoods such as Gangnam-gu, home to many top restau-

T
Korea’s southern coast three nicknames: Island of the Gods (after
rants and, notably, Park Hyatt Seoul, the city’s most pleasurable the 18,000 resident gods and goddesses), Samdado (island with three
he Land of the Morning Calm has quietly Korea had a lower per capita GDP than Ghana. And by 2008, its place to stay. Designed by Japanese firm Super Potato, the hotel abundances, namely wind, women, and rocks), and Sammudo (island
seeped into American consciousness: Pink- GDP was 17 times higher than Ghana’s.” attracts both business customers and movers and shakers involved lacking three things: thieves, beggars, and gates). And along with
berry and Red Mango; Samsung, LG, and Now that the country is established as a mega-prosperous in the creative arts. North of the Han is The Shilla Seoul, owned sandy beaches, forested and flowered mountains, temples, water-
Hyundai. Ask any teenage girl where she shops democracy (following the election of the first civilian president by modern Korea’s prevailing dynastic heir, Samsung. This is falls, and a temperate climate, Jeju claims a triad of Unesco World
and who ranks on her heartthrob list and in 1992), South Koreans are showing renewed interest in their where Seoul old money (a rarity) reigns and their children nosh Natural Heritage sites.
Forever 21 and Rain, the dreamy South 5,000-year-old dynastic history and a desire to welcome the world on Michael Jackson bibimbap, as this was the King of Pop’s The island’s remoteness has spawned a culture distinct from the
Korean action star-singer, will surely chart. Bulgogi and kimchi in. Massive restoration efforts have repaired war-torn relics and favorite place to stay. For center-of-the-action nightlife, mainland. Though times have changed (today 50 daily flights arrive
have risen to the ranks of urbanite comfort food on par with dim the entire city of Seoul is being reimagined. Seeking to “enhance W Seoul-Walkerhill offers three restaurants and two bars. from Seoul), some centuries-old customs remain intact. While
sum and falafel, and even mall staple California Pizza Kitchen its attractiveness,” Mayor Oh Se-hoon has created special Design Despite its size, fast pace, and tonnage of concrete and steel, they have traded flowy gowns for seal-like wetsuits, female free
offers a Korean barbecue taco. And yet, beyond knowledge of Streets, commissioned eye-grabbing public artworks, brought in Seoul feels friendly. Happy, even. South Koreans are often com- divers—or haenyo—still plunge up to 65 feet, gathering shellfish
South Korea’s geographical position—and extreme cultural and energy-efficient buses and electric trams, and reworked public pared to Italians. Warm, passionate, and welcoming, they value and seaweed.
economic juxtaposition with its northern neighbor—the aver- spaces to be more pedestrian- and tourist-friendly. Free maps are romance and worry about whether or not you’ve eaten. Look In the mid-1960s, tourism and tangerines saved the island’s flag-
age westerner’s awareness of this fascinating and fun country is now available and travelers need only dial 1330, day or night, to be remotely lost on a street, and a local will surely offer assistance, ging economy, and this mystical spot became known as the Hawaii
sorely limited. While American leisure travelers heading east have connected to a multilingual operator who will offer guidance or often shepherding the wayward to their destinations. Which is help- of Asia. Large resorts, such as the Hyatt Regency Jeju, sprouted
traditionally flocked to Japan or Hong Kong, South Korea is now communicate with confused taxi drivers or waitresses—a welcome ful, since street names are confusing and spoken directions usually along the southern coast, and orange orchards cover the countryside.
coming into its own as a vacation destination. service since, outside hotels, English is not prevalent. involve some version of “Make a right at Mr. Donut” or “Go left at Rising from Jeju’s heart is the volcano Mount Hallasan. At its base,
At its economic and cultural center lies a capital city that has Seoul sits in the northwest of South Korea, where four streams the orange sign.” trails weave up and around to the towering summit and crater lake.
the frenetic, addictive pace of Tokyo; a burgeoning art scene that from four mountains converge—a spot, legend says, chosen by Canvassing the island are grassy volcanic mounds called oreum.
may soon match Beijing’s; and a dynamic dining culture that is a Taoist monk for its auspicious feng shui. The city originally EATING AROUND TOWN Underneath them lies a system of lava tubes, which is among the
equal to any in Asia. The incredible ascendance of Seoul, or what occupied only a section on the north banks of the Han River, but For the traveler who really wants to get to know Seoul, ex- finest of its kind in the world.
economists refer to as the “Miracle on the Han River,” and South today’s metropolis, the size of 10 Manhattans and home to almost periencing its cuisine is as important as seeing the sites. Excellent Exceedingly friendly, Jeju is definitely eccentric: WE LOVE HAVING YOU
Korea’s recent competitive gains are essential to understanding the 11 million people, is bisected by the river and divided into 25 gu meals are easy to find in even the most unassuming restaurants HERE signs dot the highways and the ubiquitous mascot is a “grandfa-

current energized mind-set of the city and the country as a whole. (administrative districts) that are subdivided into hundreds of dong and street stalls. And like hiking and visiting a karaoke bar, eating ther stone” statue who sports a mushroom-shaped cap and a smile.
After 35 years of occupation by the Japanese and a brutal civil war (neighborhoods). Although vast, the city is easy to navigate, thanks and drinking are deeply communal and symbolic activities. Possibly nowhere else boasts more mini theme parks, including ones
five years later, the city was practically leveled and the nation left to its clean, efficient metro and numerous moderately priced taxis. Redolent in savory sauces made from red peppers, garlic, devoted to minor landmarks, chocolate, tea, teddy bears, paper dolls,
struggling with extreme poverty. Yet South Korea managed to turn The section known as downtown is a busy 6-acre swath in sesame, and soy, Korean food is earthy and healthy. The cuisine folklore, bonsai, and even sex. The latter, Loveland, features sculp-
its fortunes around, and in a remarkably short time. As Andrei the center of the city north of the Han where historical land- owes its unique complexity to Buddhist and Confucian in- tures in various stages of intimacy and arousal. As one could imagine,
Lankov points out in The Dawn of Modern Korea, “In 1957, South marks, traditional markets, and Mount Namsan abut gleaming fluences, abundant seas, and, as is often the case when it comes to the giant mountable phallus is a popular photo op.

48 Fall 2010 ShermansTravel.com/SmartLuxury

 WooBar at W Seoul

a form of sausage stuffed with viscid rice, noodles, and ox or pig

blood; and odeng, Japanese-style fish cakes on a skewer.
Many of the tents serve soju, a potent Korean liquor, and
chances are neighboring nibblers will offer a shot from their
bottle. Etiquette says it’s rude to refuse. Custom calls for the recipi-
ent to hold the glass with both hands and always replenish others’
glasses once they are empty—but never one’s own. To be on the
cutting-edge of Seoul’s drinking culture, seek out bars specializing
in makgeolli, a milky liquor made from fermented sweet rice. First
consumed over a thousand years ago, the beverage is enjoying a
serious comeback with new producers creating artisanal versions
from traditional recipes. At Chin Chin, in the hip university
neighborhood Hongdae, owner Eliot Choi serves copious brands
and has created an iPhone app that details the history, origin,
flavor, and ingredients for each.
Dinner at one of Seoul’s many
Making kkaltarae,
a traditional sweet CULTURE AND SIGHTSEEING rice wine bars

A restaurant in the Apgue- The history of dynastic rule on the Korean peninsula starting in
jeong-dong neighborhood 2,333 BC includes 11 separate, and at times concurrent, empires.
Reigning more than 500 years before falling to Japanese occupiers
a nation’s gastronomy, to times of hardship. “Korean food is where grace the walls). Go for the grilled tenderloin and the galbi tang, a in 1910, the Joseon Dynasty was the last, and its Confucian-based
the slowest foods meet the freshest foods,” says Shin Kim, a New soup made with stewed beef short ribs and daikon. Hanok is more philosophy still influences modern customs concerning food and
York–based chef who writes for Zenkimchi.com, an online journal refined and a bit more expensive but not touristy. Its meat is im- flower arrangements, as well as those involving social mores and
about food in Korea; her own blog is Shinshine.com. “Out of possibly tender. Set in a sleek steel-encased building, the upscale legal systems. Besides the founding of Seoul, one of the greatest
necessity, people started fermenting and pickling their harvests to Bamboo House is where heads of state and Tom Cruise go. The Joseon legacies is Hangul, the phonemic alphabet created by King
make them last as long. But Koreans are also very aware of what’s house specialty is called cognac sirloin, and the vegetables, grown Sejong in the 15th century that’s still in use today. Five palaces
in season and are obsessed with quality and using local produce.” at the restaurant’s farm, are particularly flavorful. from Joseon times are clustered in the same downtown vicin-
A building block of Korean cuisine is jang, or seasoned sauce. Economic prosperity has created a boom in the arts and a ity. Visitors should allot at least two days to explore the two most
Seafood bibimbap
The three main types of jang (fermented bean, soy, and red pep- homegrown entertainment industry. By 2005, the Korean wave, or impressive ones, plus the attractions near each.
per) can be rendered in innumerable variations, reflecting every- hallyu, as the flowering of local culture is known, was ex- Like Beijing’s Forbidden City, Gyeongbokgung (meaning
thing from region to season and family recipe. Deceptively simple, porting $22 billion–worth of television shows, movies, and pop Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven) was once the seat of the gov-
jang has come to symbolize Koreans’ symbiotic relationship with music throughout Asia. One TV series, Jewel in the Palace, a peri- ernment. The grandest of the palaces, Gyeongbokgung was built
food. “There’s a saying, ‘When the jang changes, a collapse of the od drama set during the Joseon dynasty (from 1392 to 1910) about in 1394 for King Taejo and features a two-tiered imperial throne
family,’” says Kim. “Making jang is an intense process that hap- a peasant girl who toils her way to becoming a palace chef, has room and a buttressed banquet pavilion that seems to float over a Shopper at the
pens over months, even years, and so if the mother is troubled and jumpstarted a revival in hanjeongsik, the traditional table d’hôte lotus pond. For a sense of the lives of the royals (and their servants, Dongdaemun market
therefore neglectful of the jang, the taste changes.” of aristocratic households. At Phil Kyung Jae, modern gourmands slaves, and eunuchs), view the costumes, art, and everyday objects
Deliciousness is just one happy by-product of the philosophy can set the clock back 500 years and dine at a banquet table in the at the on-site National Palace Museum. pavilions that blend into the lush greenery. Its bridges arc gently
behind Korean cuisine, which holds that the universe, and original home of King Sejong’s great-great-grandson, where his At the palace’s south gate, guards wearing bright red capes and over a stream ending in a soothing waterfall. Tucked toward the
therefore human bodies and the food they eat, are governed by yin descendents now live and meticulously re-create ancient family black bolero hats and carrying medieval swords change shifts three rear is Huwon Garden. Spanning 78 acres of landscaped lawns,
and yang (or, um and yang, in Korea), and it is composed of five recipes. Travelers seeking further immersion can take a cooking times a day. Normally steely-eyed and frowning, the sentinels lotus ponds, and hundreds of tree species, this is where royals met
elements. Thus, a proper Korean dish harmoniously combines um class at the Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine in Wonseo-dong. COURTESY STARWOOD HOTELS & RESORTS WORLDWIDE, INC. smile gamely for photos. Across the street is Gwanghwamun under the utmost privacy.
(greens, fruits, pungent, cold) and yang (roots, meat, spicy, fried) An easy way to find great food in Korea is to go to the open-air Plaza, Seoul’s newest landmark. Between two boulevards, carpets Outside the palace’s west wall is the elite enclave of Bukchon,
and contains five colors (red, green, yellow, white, and black). food markets and choose among the slew of casual sit-down restau- of flowers and lighted walkways lead south to grand statues of King where more than 900 Joseon-era houses, called hanok, sit side by
Arguably, there is no food more accessible or desirable than rants neighboring the stalls. A number of restaurants at Noryangjin Sejong and Joseon naval hero Admiral Yi Sun-shin. side along steep alleyways. When viewed from the highest point, the
meat grilled over an open flame. In Seoul, the intoxicating aroma of Fish Market, a cavernous warehouse in central Seoul, offer virtually With the rocky pyramid of Mount Bugaksan soaring in the black-tile rooftops form a rocky sea undulating over red clay walls.
smoldering charcoal fills the streets no matter what neighborhood. every sea creature, including sannakji, a local delicacy also known background, the expanse is a popular meeting place, especially Further west is Samcheong-Dong, a gingko-lined neighborhood
But wonderfully cooked meat is just part of the Korean barbecue as live octopus. It’s not actually alive, though raw tentacles can for students creating performance art. At the end of the plaza is that’s become the SoHo of Seoul. Housed in traditional buildings
experience. Just as important are the numerous side dishes called wiggle on the plate, and in the mouth. Drizzling sesame oil over the Cheonggyecheon Stream. Covered by a highway in the 1960s, are modern cafés, boutiques of handmade crafts, and art galleries.
banchan. Small bowls filled with any variety of kimchi (there are cephalopod adds flavor—and foils the still-active suckers. the 4-mile stream was restored a few years ago, and now locals and Two of the best galleries are adjacent: Kukje Gallery, which shows
hundreds), salad, pickled squid, cold soup, dried anchovies, and rice In a city where dried squid are draped alongside chewing gum tourists alike stroll its romantic sunken banks to be cooled by a pieces by museum favorites Joseph Beuys and Louise Bourgeois
are placed on the table all at once and for everyone to share. and sesame bars, culinary adventures are in abundance. Street carts breeze, explore exhibits, and gaze at wacky nighttime laser shows. next to works by acclaimed young Korean artists (Cho Duck
The best barbecue restaurants can be found in affluent and pojangmacha, orange tents set up in high-traffic areas, serve The royal residence of Changdeokgung (Palace of Illustrious Hyun, Yeondoo Jung), and Hakgojae Gallery, which presents
Gangnam-gu. Though not listed in guidebooks, Park Daegamne up a cornucopia of delicious and cheap treats. Three hard-to-miss Virtue), which exudes a homier feel than the stately Gyeong- ancient art and calligraphy as well as up-and-coming Asian artists.
is a favorite among low-key locals and movie stars (whose photos staples are tteokbokki, spicy rice cakes in red pepper sauce; sundae, bokgung, is perched on a hillside and bears majestic towers and A bit farther south is Insadong, a historic commune that, despite

ShermansTravel.com/SmartLuxury Fall 2010 51

 Jungmun Beach on
the south coast of Jeju

MAKING IT HAPPEN
Sherman’s Picks: SIGHTSEEING
★= Smart Splurge Cheonmachong and
= Great Value Cheomseongdae Observatory
82/54-772-3632
Gyeongju National Museum
SEOUL gyeongju.museum.go.kr/eng/
WHERE TO STAY
★ Park Hyatt Seoul From $305/night; JEJU
82/2-2016-1234; seoul.park.hyatt.com WHERE TO STAY
The Shilla Seoul From $200/night; Hyatt Regency Jeju From $110/night;
82/2-2233-3131; shilla.net/en/seoul 82/64-733-1234; jeju.regency.hyatt.com
W Seoul–Walkerhill From $225/night;
82/2-465-2222; wseoul.com GETTING THERE AND AROUND
Asiana Airlines (flyasiana.com), Korean Air
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK (www.koreanair.com), and a number of
Bamboo House 82/2-566-0870; domestic carriers fly nonstop to Seoul from
bamboohouse.or.kr the U.S. About the size of Indiana, South Korea
Chin Chin 82/2-334-1476 has an able network of planes (flyasiana.com)
Hanok 82/2-3445-7857; www.ihanok.co.kr/ and trains (info.korail.com/2007/eng/eng_index
Brushes for sale in Seoul’s Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine
.jsp), affording a visitor the luxury of seeing a lot
Jongno-gu district 82/2-3673-1122-3; food.co.kr
Park Daegamne 82/2-545-7708 in a short time. At airports, passing through
Seokguram Grotto in Gyeongju Phil Kyung Jae 82/2-445-2115; security checkpoints is fast, hassle-free, and
being quite touristic, exudes a whimsical charm. (Maps of the area philkyungjae.co.kr frequently accompanied by the happy singsong
Sanchon 82/2-735-0312; sanchon.com greeting Ahn nyeong hah seh yo!
mark McDonald’s with the same emphasis as Place Where Min
JUMPING OFF IN GYEONGJU Yeong-hwan Took His Own Life.) Packed with shops, this area sells CULTURE AND SIGHTSEEING WHEN TO GO South Korea has four very
Four-and-a-half hours south from Seoul by train or 40 minutes by anything regarded as traditional, including antiques, hanji paper, A Doll in Salt that Went to the Sea
distinct seasons. Winters are bitterly cold
plane, Gyeongju is a small town with a giant history. Sheltered by three calligraphy brushes, and hanbok clothing. Along the main drag, 82/2-725-8587
Changdeokgung and summers are very hot and humid, so visit
soaring mountain chains, Gyeongju was the golden capital of the Silla young men put on a show while kneading and stretching kkul- eng.cdg.go.kr in autumn (September to November) when
Kingdom, from 57 BC to 935 AD, and where the monarchs built glitter- tarae, a royal malt and honey candy, into thousands of silky strands. Dongdaemun Market the weather is warm, the skies are blue, and
ing palaces and Buddhist temples. With streets beautified by poplars Take time to decompress at one of the many teahouses such as A dongdaemun.com the forested mountains are ablaze with
Gwanghwamun Plaza and stunning fall colors. Or travel in spring (April
and forsythia, and a law forbidding skyscrapers, Gyeongju offers an Doll in Salt that Went to the Sea or Sanchon, which serves Bud-
Gyeongbokgung
enchanting counterpoint to Seoul. dhist temple food and is run by a former monk. to June) when temperatures are mild and
royalpalace.go.kr
Cited by Unesco as one of the world’s most important ancient cul- Like Insadong, other shopping districts offer their own product Hakgojae Gallery cherry blossoms across the country are in
82/2-720-1524; hakgojae.com bloom (usually the beginning of April).
tural cities, Gyeongju harbors numerous fascinating sites, many in the niche, and watching locals haggle is an amusing spectator sport.
Kukje Gallery
town’s center. Built in the mid-seventh century, the Cheomseongdae Serving as many as 400,000 customers each day, Namdaemun ITINERARIES While it would be easy to spend
kukje.org
Observatory was the first of its kind in the Far East. The pear-shaped Market is Korea’s largest, and craziest. More than 10,000 stores Namdaemun Market an entire holiday in Seoul, South Korea’s
stone tower, where royal astronomers once mapped the heavens, now burst at the seams with wholesale products, from eyeglasses and namdaemunmarket.co.kr personality shines outside the pulsating
glows in golden light at night, as does nearby Imhaejeonji, a photogenic children’s clothes to belts and ginseng. Though Dongdaemun capital. At least three to four days should be
Market is open all day, hard-core fashionistas wait until after
GYEONGJU
cluster of pavilions set in a pond shaped like the Korean peninsula. spent discovering the capital, but the best
WHERE TO STAY
Pathways lined with cherry blossoms lead to a walled compound midnight to plow through the latest styles at the massive complex Gyeongju Hilton itinerary would also include trips south to the
containing 23 tombs including Cheonmachong, the only one open to of stores and stalls. Both markets are in the city center. From $185/night; 82/54-745-7788; www1.hilton town of Gyeongju and its staggering remains of
the public. Inside are reproductions of a deceased king’s golden trea- Perhaps because it provides a yin tonic for a yang shopping .com/en_US/hi/hotel/KYOHITW-Gyeongju- the Silla Kingdom, as well as to oddball Jeju
Hilton/index.do Island, a volcanic rarity in the Korea Strait
sures. The genuine articles are in the Gyeongju National Museum, obsession, hiking is one of South Korea’s great pastimes. Every
where tangerines and statues resembling Papa
a must-see spot for understanding the artistry and opulence of the day, jovial mobs in nylon pants; windbreakers of reds, purples,
Smurf abound.
kingdom known as the “land of bright silver and gold.” and pinks; and gigantic visors shaped like platypus bills take to the
On the slopes of Mount Tohamsan—and also pictured on the 10 won trails. And since Seoul has 37 mountains, a path is always within
Check out our South Korea Travel Guide
coin—is Bulguksa Temple, a Buddhist masterpiece where stone bridges reach. At Mount Bugaksan, hiking trails lead to temples and strik- at ShermansTravel.com
lead to vibrantly colored pavilions, representing a symbolic journey ing urban panoramas. At the southern tip of downtown is modest �
from the everyday world to the celestial realm. High above Bulguksa, Mount Namsan, topped by the needle-shaped Seoul Tower, whose
enshrined in a grotto carved into the mountain’s slope is one of Korea’s observatory is open past nightfall. Around the tower, as well as
most marvelous achievements, the Seokguram Buddha. Chiseled out in other green spaces, are barefoot parks. Made of various types
of a single white granite block, the 11.5-foot statue stands as a zenith of of rocks, the footpaths are designed for street-worn feet to walk
Buddhist craft, geometry, and art. Visitors must rely on their memory unshod with the aim of improving circulation, stimulating internal
of such a sublime sight, as no cameras are allowed. organs, and gaining much deserved relief. ■

52 Fall 2010 ShermansTravel.com/SmartLuxury