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 MILANO PARIS LONDON NEW YORK ATHENS BARCELONA BEIJING BUDAPEST CHENGDU CHICAGO DUBAI GENEVA HONG KONG ISTANBUL JAKARTA
LOS ANGELES MADRID MANILA MEXICO CITY MIAMI MOSCOW NANJING OSAKA SEOUL SHANGHAI SINGAPORE TEHERAN TOKYO TORONTO

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GLISS MASTER SISTEMA 7 WARDROBE— VINCENT VAN DUYSEN

 MAY

A LOW-KEY, CLEAN-LINED RESORT IN THE COSTA RICAN

HILLS OVERLOOKING PLAYA HERMOSA, SEE PAGE 156

ARCHITECTURE ART

066 Light industry 092 West Side story

Celine’s new manufactory is a glass Behind the scenes with the key
act in the Tuscan landscape players at Hauser & Wirth’s first
purpose-built home, in New York
074 Inner calm
Blissful isolation and spatial drama DESIGN
at a lakeside Canadian hideaway
071
080
Finish line
Natural beauty Archival treasures and lustrous lacquers
A blooming marvellous series of
houses in a Mexican colonial town FASHION

084 Hard rock 151 Out of the blue

Concrete and glass grandeur The very personal service of
in the Arizonan desert landscape a Japanese bespoke jeans brand

∑ 021
 MAY
FRONT OF BOOK

049 Newspaper
Deconstructed trenchcoats, art goes
underground, and Julio Le Parc

064 The Vinson View

Picky Nicky lauds some local heroes

INTERIORS

170 Higher calling

We’ve taken furniture design up a level

MEDIA

158 WallpaperSTORE*
Refined design delivered to your door

166 Subscribers since… 1996

Where Vincenzo De Cotiis keeps
his Wallpaper* archive

RESOURCES
115 PRECIOUS INDEX
196 Stockists
Pharrell Williams’ Martian timepiece What you want and where to get it
for Richard Mille, no-rules jewels, and
lunch with Bell & Ross in Paris, in our TRAVEL
annual watches and jewellery special
156 Checking in
A Costa Rican hillside haven

182 Perfect form 159 Departure info

The season’s tailoring shapes up Stylish new openings in a Swiss ski
resort and a Mexican manor house
FOOD
WINE & DESIGN
198 Artist’s palate
Jeppe Hein’s ‘Breathe with Me’ buffet 089 Triple barrel
A vaulted winery in Chile’s Maipo Alto

026 ∑
 SEEN BY CHRIS RHODES

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

VDL Pavilion by Dion & Richard Neutra
Molo Collection by Rodolfo Dordoni
Band Collection by Patricia Urquiola
Half Dome Lamp by Naoto Fukasawa
Cala & Geometrics Rugs by Doshi Levien
 Wallpaper.com

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Editor-in-Chief Architecture / Design Fashion Wallpaper* Digital Contributing Editors
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Acting Design Editor Assistant Fashion Market Editor Head of Social Media Suzanne Trocmé
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TF Chan US Editor
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Tracy Gilbert Harriet Lloyd-Smith Pei-Ru Keh
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Art Amy Heffernan Josefin Forsberg Fraser Clark Marco Sammicheli

Art Director Interiors Editor Junior Digital Designer Paris Editor

Hannah Jordan Watches & Jewellery Amy Serafin
Matt Curtis Gabriela Sprunt
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Anne-Laure Fuchs Olly Mason Caragh McKay Media Coordinator Sophie Lovell

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 The Cassina Perspective Goes Outdoor
Sail Out sofa, low table and ottoman designed by Rodolfo Dordoni
Doron Hotel Outdoor designed by Charlotte Perriand
Table à Plateau Interchangeable Outdoor designed by Charlotte Perriand
cassina.com

London 238-244 Brompton Road

 CONTRIBUTORS
MICHAEL WEBB
Writer
Architecture and design writer Webb
lives in a Richard Neutra-designed
Los Angeles apartment that was previously
home to Charles and Ray Eames. For this
issue, he penned our story on a remote lake
house in Point William, Canada, designed
by architects Shim-Sutcliffe (page 074).
Webb recalls ‘very happy memories of
staying there’, and the experience validated
his admiration for the Canadian architect
duo who ‘take inspiration from the
Eameses’ love of craft and precision’.

VINCENZO DE COTIIS BRIGITTE LACOMBE

Architect and designer Photographer
De Cotiis is renowned for his infinitely Lacombe is known for her direct, intimate
collectible furniture and covetable interiors, style. In this issue, she gives us a work-in-
so we were thrilled to be allowed inside his progress preview of Hauser & Wirth’s first
18th-century palazzo apartment in Milan to purpose-built outpost, in New York, and
see how he displays his Wallpaper* archive gets up close with architect Annabelle
(page 166). He recently showed his ‘Éternel’ Selldorf, the gallery partners, and 14 of its
collection, which channels Japanese artists (page 092). ‘They were all interesting,
culture and is the fruit of a long study on passionate people,’ she recalls. Lacombe’s
immateriality, at Carpenters Workshop other projects include Martin Scorsese’s
Gallery in Paris, and is currently working next film and portraits of the world’s top
on a number of residential projects. scientists for this year’s Breakthrough Prize.

JEPPE HEIN
Artist
Balloons, mirror labyrinths and balls darting
along roller-coaster tracks are just a few of
the devices that Jeppe Hein has used to elicit
joy and wonder. The Berlin-based Danish
artist is a master of experiential art, which
he now takes to a new level with ‘Breathe
with Me’, a worldwide movement that calls
on participants to visualise their breaths in
strokes of blue paint. His complementary
buffet of five South Asian dishes features in
our Artist’s Palate series (see page 198).

HARRIET THORPE ALEX COLLEY

Assistant Architecture Editor Photographer
A member of the Wallpaper* team since Colley’s ‘performative, playful approach’
2016, Thorpe excels in telling stories that typically references surrealism and film noir.
combine architecture, culture and Having featured in this year’s Wallpaper*
community. For this issue, Thorpe reports Graduate Directory, he found it ‘a
on a Chilean family-run winery designed completely surreal experience’ to work
by local architects Mapa (page 089). The on our men’s tailoring shoot for this issue
highlight of her experience was ‘getting (page 182). ‘As I’ve mostly focused on
lost in the rolling landscape of the Pirque self-portraiture for the last year or two,
wine region [admittedly, given current it was refreshing to have the chance to work
restrictions, it had to be via Google Earth], with so many different people,’ he says.
and learning about the beauty of the barrel ‘The creative freedom that was granted
vault from architect Cristián Larraín’. to me was wonderful and unexpected.’

038 ∑ ILLUSTRATOR: CAROLINE ANDRIEU WRITERS: DIANE THEUNISSEN, OYIN AKANDE

Since 1971
 From Wallpaper*
with Love

Welcome to our May issue, where we are focusing on Art, Architecture & Escape
at a time when I think we could all use a little escapism…
Taking centre stage in this issue is our exclusive first look at Hauser & Wirth’s
new exhibition-and-more space at 542 West 22nd Street, New York. Designed
by Annabelle Selldorf, who has also created this month’s limited-edition cover,
this is Hauser & Wirth’s first purpose-built, ground-up building, and a major
milestone in their ambition to deliver museum-quality viewing experiences.
Photographer Brigitte Lacombe documented the building as it neared completion,
and shot a series of iconic portraits of 14 artists from the gallery’s roster, from
Lorna Simpson to George Condo, which forms an illustrious celebration of
New York’s creative energy and vibrant art scene.
Newsstand cover We also showcase our pick of the season’s design, with an uplifting Space Limited-edition cover
Photography: shoot, taking some of our favourite furniture to new heights with the help by Annabelle Selldorf
Ryan Hopkinson of an industrial crane system. Elsewhere you will find our artfully geometric The architect’s black-and-
Interiors: men’s tailoring story, shot by Alex Colley, a young photographer featured in white photograph was taken
Matthew Morris at Hauser & Wirth’s new 542
this January’s Graduate Directory issue (W*250). West 22nd Street premises
Crystals Monolith in stainless
steel (inox), from €15,600, by Our annual watches and jewellery special – Precious Index – showcases during construction. Seen is
Oskar Zieta, for Zieta Studio. standout steel timepieces, Virgil Abloh’s sherbet-hued signet rings for the cupola for the building’s
‘Diana B’ side table, £441, main stair volume, awaiting
Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams’ Mars-inspired collaboration with Richard Mille, installation. See our story
by Konstantin Grcic, for
ClassiCon, from Aram. ‘Atlanta’ and scene-stealing jewels that inspire a healthy disregard for rules. Meanwhile, on page 092
armchair, price on request, our architecture offerings include Celine’s impeccable Tuscan manufactory, Limited-edition covers are
by Giuseppe Bavuso, for Alivar. a Costa Rican jungle retreat, and a Chilean wine estate’s new head office, as well available to subscribers,
See our story on page 170 see Wallpaper.com
as covetable homes in Arizona, Canada and Mexico.
Finally, I want to reinforce the message ‘From Wallpaper* with Love’, which
we communicated on 23 March. These are challenging times, but we at Wallpaper*
will do everything we can to support our brilliant and extraordinary community.
We will continue to showcase the exceptional, offer some kind of escape, and
also be a place where we can come together to plan for a better tomorrow.
Like everyone, we are having to adapt and improvise, but we will keep
on sharing news, ideas, creative inspiration and inspirational creativity. And
with that in mind, we are making the May issue available to download from
Wallpaper.com, in case your usual print edition is unable to reach you.
We remain committed to doing everything we can to support the design
community; we are here for you. My 13 years at Wallpaper* have given me
an amazing belief in design, and all the people involved, every one of you.

With love from home

Sarah Douglas, Editor-in-Chief

042 ∑
 TOUR DU MONDE

DEDON COLLECTION RILLY

Design by GamFratesi www.dedon.de
COPENHAGEN STOCKHOLM LONDON MILAN

DESIGNED TO BRING
NATURE CLOSER
| BM OUTDOOR SERIES | BØRGE MOGENSEN | 1971

Originally designed for Børge Mogensen’s private balcony, the Outdoor Series
is a testament to the beauty of simple, functional design. Now reintroduced by
Carl Hansen & Søn, the foldable designs in untreated, FSC®-certified teak
bring lasting beauty to outdoor spaces thanks to their considered combination
of careful craftsmanship and lasting, high-quality materials.

carlhansen.com
TOKYO OSAKA NEW YORK SAN FRANCISCO
 Newspaper*
Wallpaper’s hot pick of the latest global goings-on

Outerwear gets
deconstructed

Trench class
Hair: Liam Russell using Evo. Make-up: Anna Inglis Hall using Oskia and Flesh
Model: Alzbeta at Wild Management. Casting: David Steven Wilton at East.

Right, trench, £1,928;

shirt, £760; trousers,
£641, all by Ports 1961

PHOTOGRAPHY: TEX BISHOP FASHION: AYLIN BAYHAN WRITER: LAURA HAWKINS ∑ 049
An exclusive collection by Jumbo Group gianfrancoferrehome.it
 Newspaper

Right, trench, £2,150, by

2 Moncler 1952. Below,
trench, £2,187; trainers, price
on request, both by Rokh.
Trousers, £695, by Roland
Mouret. Bag, £385, by Osoi

T
he trenchcoat has long been a wardrobe
classic, but for spring, brands brought
a dash of deconstructed drama to the
eternal outerwear essential, turning the
trenchcoat into a jigsaw puzzle, splicing
and dicing it into a powerful new piece.
A host of labels have all upped their
construction game, with Rokh’s
signature hybrid silhouettes including
a trench with leather inserts; Karl
Templer’s debut collection for Ports 1961
featuring a style with a splice of bold
picnic blanket check; and Moncler’s take
an assemblage of glossy fabrics and
Jenga-like prints. Entrench yourself now.
rokh.net; ports1961.com; moncler.com

∑ 051
 Newspaper

A global sweep of magnificent Adam Štěch’s Modernist Architecture creating an extraordinary body of work.
modernist treasures and Interiors is an impressive catalogue ‘I have always wanted to experience
of modernist buildings from more art on my own. It was not enough for
Expedition force than 25 different countries. In 2006,
curator, writer and frequent Wallpaper*
me to just see art and buildings in books,’
says Štěch. ‘It has been great to explore
contributor Štěch embarked on a series these buildings, but also to meet the
of journeys across the globe to document people involved – the residents, curators,
the architecture that he loves in various architects and historians.’
parts of the world, from Europe to Modernist Architecture and Interiors,
Australia. His trips resulted in an £30, by Adam Štĕch, is published by
expansive catalogue of almost 1,000 Prestel Publishing, and will launch in
buildings, which he photographed, June, prestelpublishing.randomhouse.de

Clockwise from main

picture, Brunnadern Housing
Complex, Bern, Switzerland
(1968–1970); Terminal 3,
Copenhagen, Denmark (1939);
and Coventry Central Baths,
Coventry, UK (1956–77)

incoming From Alexandria’s ancient reading in Tianjin. But it’s Mecanoo’s LocHal
rooms to Europe’s monastic abbeys, in Tilburg that offers the best template
John Weich on the public great libraries have always inspired awe. for the future. Not a new glass palace,
libraries offering the best Today’s open-access libraries are equally but a repurposed locomotive shed that
templates for the future impressive. Take Snøhetta’s Alexandria combines the monumentality of an
revival or OMA’s Seattle Central Library. industrial throwback with the calm
The idea of library as transparent public intimacy of a well-appointed living room
plaza is stronger today than ever before. and the modularity of a Silicon Valley
ALA’s Oodi Library in Helsinki is a flexspace. A library you can live in, just
work of art, as is MVRDV’s Library like in the bookish abbeys of yore.

052 ∑ ˇ WRITER: ELLIE STATHAKI

PHOTOGRAPHY: ADAM ŠTECH
www.baxter.it
 SOLANAS by Daniel Germani

SALONE DEL MOBILE. MILANO

HALL 16 STAND C28

www.gandiablasco.com
 Newspaper

A new Tomás Saraceno Tomás Saraceno’s latest

installation at Cisternerne,
installation is poetry in motion an exhibition space in a

Ripple effect
subterranean former reservoir
in Copenhagen, includes
his pieces A Thermodynamic
Imaginary (2020), above,
and Orb Cloud (2016), left
Each year, a different artist or architect
is tasked with devising an installation
among the vaulted concrete ceilings
and brick colonnades of Cisternerne,
a former reservoir under Copenhagen’s
Søndermarken park. For its 2020 show,
Cisternerne turned to Argentine artist
(and 2018 Wallpaper* guest editor)
Tomás Saraceno, who has flooded
the venue with 1.4 million litres of water,
enough to require that visitors navigate
the show by boat, in silence and avoiding
the use of light sources throughout the
45-minute journey. Thus the usual
Saraceno artworks – illuminated spider
webs, geometric clouds, floating metallic
orbs and sculptural assemblages that
evoke constellations – all take on a new
light. And while they may appear
celestial and timeless, their reflections
on the water shift constantly, disturbed
by ripples generated by the movement
of boats.
For exhibition details, visit cisternerne.dk;
studiotomassaraceno.org

PHOTOGRAPHY: TORBEN ESKEROD WRITER: TF CHAN ∑ 055

 Newspaper

A perfume range with a nose A new brand by French perfumer and vinyl records, made by contributors
for fragrant collaborations Barnabé Fillion features seven fragrances as diverse as Korean-American
housed in standard as well as limited- conceptual artist Anicka Yi and French
Scents and edition bottles designed by Fillion and
London-based glassblower Jochen
DJ Pilooski. With graphics by Memphis
Group heavyweight Nathalie Du
sensibility Holz. The Arpa collection is packaged Pasquier and an office space by Aesop’s
in wooden boxes, which have been in-house architect Jean-Philippe
handcarved in Japan and filled with tea Bonnefoi, Arpa is a new model fragrance
leaves that evoke the aroma and taste house. By next year, Fillion hopes the
of the corresponding perfume. The tea, project will expand into a series of
a sustainable take on bubble wrap, can immersive spaces where visitors can
then be burned in ceramic containers experience all aspects of Arpa, from
made by Mexican designer Perla scent experiments to sound projects.
Valtierra, creating a unique home We reckon this scents- and sense-
diffuser. The collection will also be blending endeavour will hit all the right
accompanied by a series of sculptures notes. Prices from €165, arpastudios.com

056 ∑ PHOTOGRAPHY: SOPHIE GLADSTONE AND WILLIAM LAKIN WRITER: MARY CLEARY
What sofa? Vipp sofa
Yes, Vipp is so much more than a pedal bin and a kitchen.
A line of furniture has now joined the collection. Chairs, tables. And this sofa.
All made with the same attention to finish, materials and functionality,
which has been our hallmark since 1939. Please have a seat.

Vipp Chimney Sofa as shown here in yellow velour: EUR 4,395.00

vipp.com
 Floor, walls: Grande Stone Look Pietra di Vals
Walls, furnishing: Grande Marble Look Verde Aver
Shower: Crogiolo Lume

Human Design
For more than eighty years we have used technology and innovation to design ceramic tiles that people want.
Real design always arises from the ones who experience it
Marazzi Showroom – 90-92 St John Street, Clerkenwell, London – marazzi.it
 Newspaper

Artist Julio Le Parc is Julio Le Parc, photographed

in his studio in Cachan in
still making waves February 2020, with artworks
from his Surface-couleur series
Rainbow warrior
Courtesy of Julio Le Parc and Galerie Perrotin

One morning in the early days of France’s national world, including at the Met Breuer last year. Now,
lockdown in the wake of the Covid-19 outbreak, Julio in anticipation of a post-pandemic exhibition at its
Le Parc is sitting in his studio in Cachan, south of Paris. New York outpost later in the year, Galerie Perrotin
‘I’m here, waiting,’ complains the 91-year-old Argentine is launching an online viewing room for summer.
artist over the phone, like the unwilling character of a Le Parc’s taste for experimentation has shaped much
Beckett play. The Op Art master immigrated to France of his output. He first introduced light into his work in
in the late 1950s and, since then, has captivated and 1959, resulting in the moving-light installations he is
challenged the establishment in equal measure. His now best known for. They include the kinetic relief
large-scale kinetic sculptures and rainbow-coloured Continual Mobile, Continual Light (1963), in which mirror-
geometric paintings have been exhibited around the plate squares, attached to nylon threads hung from »

PHOTOGRAPHY: CLAIRE DORN WRITER: BENOÎT LOISEAU ∑ 059

 Newspaper

creative smalltalk
Bodil Blain catches up over a coffee
with French-Swedish artist and
furniture maker Ingrid Donat

BB: Do you drink coffee?

ID: Yes. Every morning I like to prepare
myself a Swedish breakfast and have
it in front of the news.
Do you feel Swedish, French or both?
I would say I am a mix. I have origins
from Île de la Réunion, from my
father, and Sweden, from my mother.
My path crossed so many different
influences. I guess I’m somewhere
in between all these influences.
How do ideas come to you?
I feed myself with what I see, then
I put it down on a neutral medium,
like paper or wax, and from there
something graphic happens.
Who or what is your biggest influence?
My influences are diverse. Primitive art
and the origin of the arts, as well as art
deco and Nordic inspirations, too. But
I am also influenced by art in a larger
way, by artists like Gustav Klimt and
Egon Schiele. There is a brutalist efficacy
that mixes strength and complexity.
Tell me a little bit about your
relationship with Swiss sculptor and
designer Diego Giacometti?
He was not exactly my mentor, he was
more my friend. He was the one who
encouraged me to start doing my own
pieces. One day I went to his studio.
I wanted to buy a console from him for
a gift. He told me, ‘Do it yourself ’. He
said that, from that moment on, he
a thin metal plate, create shadows that dance against Artworks and sketches from would not sell me his pieces anymore.
a white background. Meanwhile, Continual Light Le Parc’s Surface-couleur and What are you currently working on?
Alchimie series
Cylinder (1962-2019) is a series of unique, site-specific I have been working on a project for
kinetic sculptures that reflect light through a Peter Marino for La Samaritaine in
volumetric form. These works call on the viewer to Paris, which is part of the Cheval Blanc
engage in ways that are at once playful and disruptive. hotel group. Everything is in production
Today, Le Parc is considered a national treasure in and should be ready sometime soon.
France, but it wasn’t always the case. During civil I am also working on a new collection
unrest in 1968, he was briefly expelled from the country of commodes. I am currently in the
for his involvement in the occupation of a Renault process of reworking the drawings with
factory, and, in the 1970s, he was at the forefront of an the technical team.
artists’ protest group against the management of the Which is your favourite work?
nascent Centre Pompidou. ‘Artists don’t have a say in Each work is the expression of a
the decision-making process,’ says Le Parc. ‘The market particular feeling that have I felt at some
is practically the only system that gives value to point in my life. For example, ‘Commode
contemporary creation. We need to find new ways of Skarabée’, which was shown at TEFAF
assigning value. Otherwise, the power stays in the Maastricht 2020, is my interpretation of
hands of the rich.’ We’ll have to see if such a paradigm an insect, the beetle, that I have always
shift becomes conceivable in the post-pandemic era. been fascinated with because of its
But for now, and despite his longstanding efforts, history and because of its shape.
Le Parc continues to wait. perrotin.com; julioleparc.org Bodil Blain is the founder of Cru Kafe

060 ∑
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 Newspaper

A new stable complex is a natural This equestrian complex, in Puebla, and a small housing development. The
Mexico, was designed to be perfectly in idea of integration was a key element in
winner for all its residents
tune with its landscape. Composed of the commission, says the architect. The
Groom service long, low volumes in earth-tone plaster
and marble rock walls that anchor the
residential wing was conceived especially
for the facility’s employees, so they can
buildings to their site while following live and work on site, seamlessly
the natural topography, the project was blending all aspects of life. And while
designed by Mexico City-based architect openness defines the track and stables,
Manuel Cervantes and his team. The rich greenery has been planted around
scheme sits in the grounds of a private the housing to help maintain privacy
estate and includes a riding track, stables where needed. manuelcervantes.com.mx

exhibition
Felicity Hammond’s latest photo-
installations look at the shaky
foundations of the modern cityscape

British multimedia artist Felicity

Hammond’s latest work, Fault Line,
deconstructs the utopian visuals of
towering developments into collapsing
cityscapes, using creases and folds to
evoke the financial instability.
Hammond created the collages by hand
before rescanning the newly assembled
city, encouraging viewers to consider
the role we ourselves play in the
increasing fragility of urban space.
Due to be shown in September at the
inaugural Photo 2020 festival in
Melbourne, the 30m-work will surround
a newly built metro station.
Photo 2020, 10-27 September, photo.org.au

062 ∑ PHOTOGRAPHY: PABLO CASALS-AGUIRRE WRITERS: ELLIE STATHAKI, SOPHIE GLADSTONE

“MORE T
IN THE A
A JEWEL
ARCHITE

― Jean-Marie Massaud

FORM FOLLOWS PERFECTION

 Column

THE VINSON VIEW

Quality maniac Nick Vinson on the who, what, when, where and why

TYROLEAN TOP TIPS

1477 Reichhalter
This ground floor café-restaurant, with eight
guest rooms upstairs, is located in a 15th century
building renovated in 2018 by local architect
Zeno Bampi. 1477reichhalter.com
Vigilius Mountain Resort
Find tranquillity at this mountain retreat, built
from local stone, wood and clay. vigilius.it
Alois Lageder
This winemaker takes a holistic approach,
producing exceptional wines. Visit Vineria
Paradeis and stay for lunch. aloislageder.eu
AlpiNN
Book a table by the window for extraordinary
views. The 4 Hands Dinner is a culinary
experience in which Niederkofler is joined in
the kitchen by a renowned guest chef. alpinn.it
Lumen Museum of Mountain Photography
Next door to AlpiNN, this museum celebrates
the work of mountain photographers from
around the world. lumenmuseum.it
Cantina Tramin
Founded in 1898, this winery represents more
than 300 local growers, with Gewürztraminer
as its flagship wine. cantinatramin.it

01 Picky
Neighbourhood watch
Nicky’s got his eye on northern Italy’s local heroes
It was architect Matteo Thun who first using produce from their own garden,
drew me to South Tyrol. It was September as well as from local biodynamic partners.
2003 and I was visiting the new Thun- The little meat on the menu comes from
designed Vigilius Mountain Resort, which livestock who graze among the vines.
we were shooting (see W*64). Thun used The local terrain, which ranges from
only local materials to build Vigilius, and 200m to 3,900m, produces a diversity in grape
he also taught me about moon wood, varieties. Gewürztraminer is my particular
cut when the moon is waning and the sap favourite, and Lageder’s Am Sand is regularly 02
content is at its lowest, thus producing in my fridge. Today, thanks to Lageder and
better quality lumber. A year or so later neighbouring producers like Cantina Tramin, Bunker down
I returned for the Merano Wine Festival, a cooperative 8km up the road, wines from A 180m-deep WWII bunker in San Lorenzo
where I met winemaker Alois Lageder, scion this part of Italy are now highly respected. It’s di Sebato, which has been converted into
of the family business, which dates back to hard to remember that, until the 1980s, this a maturing cave for local cheeses, offers
1823. My visit to his estate in Magrè (where region was known for producing cheap plonk. cheese and beer tastings. genussbunker.it
casks of wine rest in cellars piping out Obsessing about quality, taste and
a Bach lullaby sound installation by artist local sourcing is the cornerstone of AlpINN,
Mario Airò) left a lasting impression, and the restaurant perched 2,275m up Mount
we always keep cases of his wine at home. Kronplatz. Without a doubt, the (Vinson)
Lageder told me then that grapes in the view has never been better than from my
region would typically stay on the vines a table there, with a panorama that takes in
little longer to get their required sweetness. both the Italian Alps and the Dolomites.
Climate change means that today’s challenge The interiors are by Martino Gamper, who
is how to maintain freshness and acidity. was born down the road in Merano and has
The 55-hectare Lageder estate is farmed a reputation for reusing and repurposing
biodynamically, and the family work with objects, and the food is by three-Michelin-
80 local growers, who supply the estate starred chef Norbert Niederkofler. Dishes are 03
with additional grapes. Lageder is also the prepared with ingredients sourced only from
president of Demeter Italy, which certifies 50 local producers, so no hothouse-grown One vine stay
biodynamic food producers. At the Lageder ingredients in the kitchen, and no olive oil. Designed by Peter Pichler Architecture
cellar door and restaurant Paradeis, you can I’ve got a real soft spot for this area and Martin Schgaguler, the Schgaguler
taste and buy their wines, but I recommend where there are just so many fine examples is a modern 42-room hotel, serving local
going for lunch to sample the food, cooked of stewardship of local resources. ∂ wines, in Castelrotto. schgaguler.com

064 ∑ ILLUSTRATION: DANAE DIAZ

 Outdoor furniture made for life

+33 1 47 03 0 5 0 5 – www.tecto n a .f r
 Architecture
This page, the artisans who craft Celine bags
enjoy light and the views of vineyards thanks
to expansive glass walls, while a second skin
of grey-toned glass bricks shades and cools the
building in summer and retains heat in winter
Opposite, the concrete and glass northern
façade, where no shading is required.
On the upper floor is the staff dining room
Light industry
Amazing glazing and chic shades of grey at Celine’s new Tuscan manufactory
PHOTOGRAPHY: MARCO CAPPELLETTI WRITER: LAURA RYSMAN

Nestled amid the lush and gently undulating one of the building’s full glass walls, which and large logos. A small, unmarked entry-
hills at the heart of Tuscany, the bucolic faces out towards the hilly crests neatly road at the site’s rear is designated only
small town of Radda in Chianti encompasses combed by snaking rows of grapevines. by the remains of a tiny 18th-century church;
dozens of vineyards and centuries-old ‘We just wanted to help the factory to the 5,400 sq m crystalline structure almost
farmhouses. Last August, this agricultural exist within this countryside context.’ The dissolves into the sky. ‘The building changes
bastion became the home of a contemporary architects devised full walls of glass to open according to the sky it’s reflecting,’ Ponticelli
and cosmopolitan new neighbour from the panorama in every direction for the says. ‘It’s most beautiful when it’s cloudy.”’
Paris, when Celine inaugurated a sprawling factory’s workers, swearing off view-blocking Barluzzi and Ponticelli point out the
handbag-making plant there. Designed window blinds and curtains to mediate the white-walled expanses of the utilitarian
by Fabio Barluzzi and Barbara Ponticelli sun. The upper half of the glass walls are interior, accented uniquely and ubiquitously
of the MetroOffice architecture studio, instead sheathed in semi-transparent, light- in grey – RAL 7030 to be exact, the stone-ish
‘La Manufacture’, as it is named by Celine, diffusing glass bricks, creating a second tone used for the cabinets, pipes, pillars,
is a glass and concrete hilltop monolith that skin that wraps around all but the northern cement floors, and everything about the
doesn’t apologise for its industrial muscle. façade and echoes the bowed form of the building except the outdoor greenery. It’s
Instead, its transparent walls are designed hill on which the building sits, formerly the same grey the architects used throughout
to eliminate the boundary between the the site of a kitchen furniture factory. the Celine factory in nearby Strada in
viticultural hills and the workers inside, ‘Factories generally make the landscape Chianti, designed in 2013. And the same
exalting the role of the artisans by encircling uglier,’ comments Ponticelli. ‘This one grey now adopted as the door colour at
them with Tuscany’s natural beauty. follows the shape of the landscape instead.’ Celine’s Paris headquarters. ‘There’s a logic
‘We never intended to hide the fact that Unlike many luxury brand constructions, to always using the same colour,’ explains
this is a factory,’ said Barluzzi, pausing before La Manufacture eschews grandiose entrances Barluzzi, walking past a few grey-smocked  »

∑ 067
 Architecture
Left, the building’s main entrance,
with door in RAL 7030 grey
Below, matching grey in the reception
area, where screens show a video
installation about the construction of the
project, by Italian artist Matilde Gagliardo

a cause of energy waste. Built in just over

a year, the factory needs little electrical
illumination in the day, and benefits from
an automatically adapting LED system.
The double façade is designed to draw a shaft
of air in between, cooling the inner glass
walls in summer; and the design retains so
much warmth in winter that the heating was
never switched on during this year’s cold
months. Celine took the further ecological
steps of equipping the roof with rainwater
‘We try to transfer the essence of the collection and with a basketball court’s worth
of solar panels. Disposable plastic and paper
fashion house to its working spaces’ have been banned from the site.
The subtle humanity of the industrial
structure is founded in the bespoke aspects
of its construction: its 33,000 glass bricks,
the fruit of more than 20 material experiments
by the architects, were crafted in a bespoke
grey by the glassmakers of Bormioli Luigi.
Specially cut and glued bricks allow the
corners of the building to remain completely
transparent. The steel-frame lamps, awnings
and handrails, among other details, were
custom-made by small Italian producers,
underlining the fortified role of craftsmanship
at La Manufacture.
At the same time, La Manufacture is
educating a new generation of artisans, with
recruits receiving seven weeks’ training in the
art of bag fabrication, learning from leather-
workers with decades of experience. There
are currently 129 staff at La Manufacture,
gathered from the Radda in Chianti area. The
factory expects to more than double its staff
for 2021. As Toni Belloni, managing director
of LVMH, says, ‘this project perfectly reflects
LVMH’s philosophy, which aims at preserving
local expertise and stimulating it by training
artisans as they manually stitch bag handles, company communicates a cohesive identity,’ young generations of craftspeople’.
surrounded by high-tech cutting machines said Barluzzi. Given that many brands In much of Italy, the long-running artisan
and leather skins draped on sawhorses. today transform identity every three years as culture is at risk, as the small workshops
‘The continuity of the colour expresses the they switch creative directors, and most that traditionally fabricated stock for luxury
elegance of the brand, even in this offices and factories will be renovated only goods houses have shuttered, snubbed
manufacturing environment.’ every ten years, this requires a healthy dose in favour of cheaper production abroad.
Married Florence natives, Barluzzi and of the duo’s signature understatement – La Manufacture depends on a new generation
Ponticelli founded MetroOffice in their in the case of La Manufacture for Celine, working as artisans in a different context,
hometown in 2006, and specialise in working allowing a subdued interior and the visibility as employees of a brand. It represents a
with fashion companies, such as Valentino of a breathtaking natural landscape to commitment to the upkeep and updating of
and Balenciaga. ‘We try to squeeze out the communicate an enduring sense of luxury. craft, crystallised in its encouraging outlook
essence of the fashion house and to transfer The sustainable design of the building on the Tuscan horizon.  ∂
that to its working spaces, so that the relies, surprisingly, on its glass walls, often metrooffice.it

068 ∑
Michael Spence. Nobel Laureate in Economic Sciences.

Will the world

always be this
unpredictable?
Am I prepared?
Or do I need to rethink?
Right now, the only certainty is uncertainty. So the
temptation is to do nothing. But your plan may no
longer be the right one. Together, we can navigate a
changing future. Now there’s a thought.

For some of life’s questions, you’re not alone.

Together we can find an answer.

The value of investments may fall as well as rise and you may not get back the amount originally invested. © UBS 2020. All rights reserved.
N OTHI N G B E ATS A S I MP L E T EC H NIC AL PR EMISE; EVEN IT IS DI F F I C ULT TO BRI N G TO LI F E .

THE V I T RO C SA S L I D I N G SYST EM C AN B E ADAPT ED TO SU IT ANY S I TUATI O N , A LLOWI N G I N N OVATI V E

D E VE LO P ME N TS W I T H AN INFINIT E R ANG E OF VER SIONS.

PITS O U K E D E M A RC H I T EC T

MOR E INFOR M AT ION ON V I T RO C SA . C H/PRO D U C T S/S LI D I N G

 Design

Finish line
MDF Italia dips into the rich archives of its
latest acquisition, reviving forgotten classics
and discovering a new love of lacquer

Above, ‘Jot’ chair, by Giotto Stoppino, Acerbis, which has been producing storage metallic inserts and new materials to the
originally designed for Acerbis in 1976, and furniture since 1870, has played a quietly wood of northern Italy’s Val Seriana.
reissued under the creative direction of pivotal role in Italian design, collaborating Collaborators included the likes of Kazuyo
Francesco Meda and David Lopez Quincoces
with a number of high-profile artists and Komoda, whose ‘Asisai’ umbrella stand,
designers. It was one of the first Italian featuring three simple and harmonious bent
companies to work with Japanese designers steel wires fixed to a flat base, has been a
whose compositional language added bestseller since its launch in the late 1990s. »

PHOTOGRAPHY: ALBERTO STRADA WRITER: MARCO SAMMICHELI ∑ 071

 Design

Acerbis also worked with Jonathan De Pas,

Donato D’Urbino and Paola Lomazzi,
important figures in pop design culture who
investigated new perspectives on the use of
space with coloured module units. And as
the Memphis movement built momentum,
the company introduced designs by Massimo
and Lella Vignelli and Vico Magistretti.
In 2019, Acerbis was bought by the
MDF Italia group, and this year the creative
direction of the brand has been entrusted to
industrial designer Francesco Meda and
Milan-based Spanish architect David Lopez
Quincoces. The pair have since spent time in
the Acerbis archives, quickly identifying
particularly fertile points in its history and
opportunities for design resuscitation.
‘We have focused on the period from the
mid-1970s to the late-1990s, when the
company collaborated with some fantastic
designers such as Gianfranco Frattini,
Giotto Stoppino and Nanda Vigo, and with
photographers of the calibre of Aldo Ballo
and Studio Azzurro,’ says Meda. ‘By looking
through the archives, we realised there
Above, reissued ‘Gong’ tables, by Gianfranco Frattini, originally were some truly fabulous pieces, never
designed for Acerbis in 1987. Above right, ‘Jot’ chair, by
Giotto Stoppino (archive image). Below, clockwise from top left, produced for the market but with extremely
‘Brooklyn’ shelving, by Giotto Stoppino, 1977; ‘Jonathan’ bed, contemporary aesthetics as well as great
by Jonathan De Pas, Donato D’Urbino and Paolo Lomazzi, 1968; commercial potential. We decided to revisit
‘Storet’ storage units, by Nanda Vigo, 1994 (all archive images)
these pieces, adapting the dimensions,
lacquered finishes and colours with a modern
eye, giving them new life while respectfully
maintaining the DNA of the original design.’
Acerbis developed the polyester lacquers
with Stoppino and the study of new materials
and technologies became a key strength
of the brand. Meda and Lopez Quincoces
have also been giving special attention
to lacquered finishes. Colours have been
rethought, taking inspiration from the
automotive sector of the 1970s and 1980s to
give reissues a fresh feel. The new palette
Photography: archive imagery courtesy of Acerbis

includes electric blue, mustard yellow and

dark green, like the colours used for historical
models of Jaguar and Porsche Targa.
‘In this first phase, we’re concentrating
on the archive, identity and presentation
of the brand through its heritage,’ says
Meda. ‘In the second phase, we will continue
the process of dipping into the historic
archive, but David and I will also add new
pieces to the collection, both as designers
ourselves but also as talent scouts, working
with new names in design.’  ∂
acerbisdesign.com

072 ∑
 Left, the Douglas fir-lined powder
room with a Canadian granite floor.
Shim-Sutcliffe designed the built-in
pieces and the fittings throughout
the house
Opposite, looking through to the
living room, with a lake view and
Alvar Aalto furnishings, material
detail includes more Douglas fir, a
board-formed concrete column, and
Canadian granite and concrete floors

CANADA
Inner calm
Blissful isolation at a richly layered hideaway
that’s rooted in its surroundings
INTERIOR PHOTOGRAPHY: SCOTT NORSWORTHY EXTERIOR PHOTOGRAPHY: EDWARD BURTYNSKY WRITER: MICHAEL WEBB

074 ∑
Architecture
Newspaper
etrohomeinteriors.jumbogroup.it
 Architecture

An Alvar Aalto chair in the entry porch, where weathering steel fins contrast with the timber
and granite surfaces, and the windows look out to a granite outcrop and the lake

T he Toronto-based partnership of
Brigitte Shim and Howard Sutcliffe
had been in practice together for
three years when, in 1997, a local
businessman and his wife called, inviting the
architects to masterplan their five-acre plot
on Point William, a spur of forested land
of granite scoured by retreating glaciers at the
end of the last Ice Age. The rock, now fully
revealed, separates the house from the guest
cottage, and becomes a symbolic anchor for
the entire compound. As Shim explains, ‘Our
episodic journey reimagining Point William
has revealed to us that the open spaces we
band of glass, shaded by irregularly spaced
mullions, and this horizontal layering of
materials breaks up the mass of the 6,500-sq
ft house. A bowed hood rises from the green
roof to pull in light from the lake, and a linear
skylight illuminates the staircase descending
to the lower-level guest rooms. Terraces take
jutting into Lake Muskoka. More than two created between buildings are as important as up the north and east corners of the building.
decades later, the weekend retreat and family the design of the buildings themselves. One Though the ground-hugging house is a
compound, a two-hour drive north of responds to the next and our landscaping perfect foil for the steep-roofed guest cottage
Toronto, continues to grow and evolve. stitches the whole thing together.’ and the towering white pines, the architects
The programme developed as clients and The architects’ scheme unfolds conceived it from the inside out. ‘There’s a
architects considered alternative options. cinematically, as a succession of vistas. strong sense of axiality,’ says Sutcliffe.
Shim-Sutcliffe reconstructed a decrepit boat The gravelled drive bends around a meadow, ‘Different scales of design are juxtaposed and
shelter (1997-1999) and a guest cottage (2007- revealing flashes of light off the water, and syncopated, with soaring gathering spaces
2010), before turning its attention to the main the boat house at the foot of a slope. Logs flowing out of intimate areas.’ The clients’
house – a sprawling, ramshackle structure are stacked against the walls of the guest grown children built their own family lodge
that blocked views of the water and was cottage and newly reconstructed garage, with at the base of the peninsula, so the new house
widely regarded as the ugliest on the lake. their pitched, rusted steel roofs. The house was to serve as a getaway for a couple of
The architects had earlier secured planning is clad in rough-hewn blocks of local stone, empty nesters who love to entertain but
approval for a new house of a similar self-rusting steel and ipe wood – materials wanted the same feeling of intimacy as when
footprint but set back from the water and, that require no maintenance and are already they stayed in the upstairs apartment of
on the landward side, from a massive dome beginning to weather. They sandwich a the new boat house. Point William has  »

∑ 077
 Architecture

The house, with its ipe-wood cladding and bronze-framed windows, seems almost embedded at the
tip of a peninsula on Lake Muskoka, part of a geological area known as the Canadian Shield

captured their imagination, and they drive up

here more often than they first intended.
A feeling of tactility enhances the spatial
drama of the interior, with its snug bedrooms,
expansive kitchen and lofty living spaces.
Everything you touch, from the rounded
corners to the bronze door handles and
sculpted balustrade, imparts a sense of delight
to hand and eye. Shim-Sutcliffe has brought
rusted steel inside, but with the texture of
smooth leather. Boldly grained Douglas fir
clads the ceiling; straight-grained fir is
employed for panelling and cabinetry. The
same granite, quarried in Quebec, reveals a
watery pattern on the floor and turns soft
grey when flamed for the hearths. Natural
light washes some surfaces, reflects off others,
highlighting details and constantly changing.
‘The pleasure of making things permeates
everything we do,’ says Shim. ‘We designed
all the built-ins, fittings and some new
furnishings to complement the clients’
rustic and vintage modern pieces.’ From
site-responsive architecture to 3D-printed
lamps, Point William is a total work of art. 
∂ Textural juxtaposition at the entrance to the house, with granite slab steps wrapped in bronze,
shim-sutcliffe.com weathering steel fins, and granite gravel on the drive

078 ∑
 Timeless by
Tradition

SALONE DEL MOBILE / EUROCUCINA | June 16 to 21, 2020 | starting daily at 10:00 AM
SieMatic Monte Santo | Porta Nuova | Viale Monte Santo 8 | 20124 Mailand

SIEMATIC ST YLE COLLECTION PURE | siematic.com/showrooms

 MEXICO
Natural beauty
A blooming marvel blurs the boundaries between architecture and the landscape
PHOTOGRAPHY: JAIME NAVARRO WRITER: ANA KARINA ZATARAIN

080 ∑
 Architecture

A
two-hour drive northwest of Mexico City, brimming with potential, and he set out to regenerate
the small town of Valle de Bravo has long the landscape by sloping it towards a cliff that flanks
been a popular weekend destination. Nestled the south side of the site, as well as incorporating trees
between mountains and Lake Avándaro, Valle and shrubbery native to the region. ‘The ground here
features a multitude of sites teeming with greenery and was completely degraded,’ he says. ‘So we planted white
ready to be domesticated, but it was a deserted square- clover, a natural fertiliser that fixes nitrogen into the
hectare plot near the town’s centre that caught Luis soil, then slowly added other plant species to attract
Urrutia’s eye in 2015. The area had been deforested to insects that would initiate the pollination process.’
On a plot regenerated with use for agriculture, and later became a storage space for Once the ecosystem had begun to regenerate,
indigenous plants, six identical construction materials. To Urrutia – an environmental Urrutia called on architect and part-time botanist
houses run east to west, with
each set five metres apart engineer specialising in ecosystem regeneration – it was Alberto Kalach, of the Mexico City-based studio »
 art direction: studio FM milano
photo: Andrea Garuti
pedrali.it

Salone del Mobile.Milano NeoCon — Chicago

June 16 — 21, 2020 | Hall 10 - Stand B19, C28 June 8 — 10, 2020 | Floor 3, Booth 330
 Architecture

The houses are built using

locally sourced brick, pine and
marble, and their open-plan
living and dining areas and
rooftop terraces offer ample
views of the surrounding forest
and Lake Avándaro beyond

Taller de Arquitectura X, for the masterplan. As well a sliver of Lake Avándaro can be observed, partly
as a greenhouse and a large outdoor dining area enshrouded by the surrounding treetops.
overlooking the cliff, Kalach designed six identical However, it is at ground level that Kalach’s fixation
houses, intended for the client and his family, running with blurring the lines between nature and construction
east to west down the terrain. Each 450 sq m structure becomes most palpable, as this part of the house is
is one and a half metres lower than the previous one, completely enveloped by the gardens. A long corridor
respecting the area’s natural topography while allowing overlooks the entrance’s mounds of greenery, and is
for every house to have a rooftop view of the lake. lined by four bedrooms that open towards the private
‘I believe gardening and architecture are one and back garden, a breathtaking nook of tecoma trees
the same, so my design process usually begins with and untamed shrubbery. ‘Placing the bedrooms in the
the gardens,’ says Kalach, who used excess earth from closest proximity to nature was intentional,’ says
the construction’s excavation to devise a series of Kalach. ‘While other parts of the house have panoramic
mounds, placed at the entrance to each house and views, the private areas are on a smaller scale, and so
planted with herbs and flowers, including lavender have a deeper sense of intimacy.’
and sage. All of the houses sit on three levels, with For both Kalach and Urrutia, sustainability played
each level offering a different experience. Located as significant a role in the design and construction
atop a short flight of stairs on the middle level, the of the houses as in the development of the landscape.
main entrance leads to an open-plan kitchen, dining The pair sought to minimise the construction’s carbon
and living room area, which features ample views footprint by utilising a restrained palette of locally
of the nascent forest. From the rooftop terraces, produced materials, including red brick, pine and
Santo Tomás marble. An inverted gable roof conveys
rainwater to the ground level, where it passes through
an inconspicuous filtering system made of large
tezontle rocks (to those not versed in environmental
engineering, the boulders may appear to be but another
element of the landscape design). Today, approximately
80 per cent of the water used in the houses is harvested
through this system. On the southern side of the
property, next to a greenhouse where produce is grown,
a large compost bin is used to transform organic waste
into fertiliser for the gardens.
‘The main idea behind this project was to regenerate
an ecosystem that had been depleted by human
activity,’ says Urrutia. ‘And once that was done, it was
crucial that everything we built around it functioned
in service of that initial intention.’ At a time when
environmental concerns are escalating, this project
stands as evidence of the possibilities for establishing
a symbiotic relationship between architecture and
its natural surroundings, and proves that it can be done
without sacrificing aesthetics.∂
kalach.com

∑ 083
 Surrounded by saguaro cacti, HK Associates’
Ventana House is set into a hillside above Tucson

ARIZONA
Hard rock
Embedded in the desert landscape of Arizona,
a rugged concrete house prioritises shelter and chic
PHOTOGRAPHY: EMA PETER WRITER: JONATHAN BELL

Arizona’s Sonoran desert is the setting for minimised to avoid the amount of excavation
this exquisitely planned piece of residential required. The façade that greets the visitor
design; a house that appears defiantly is treated like a geological outcrop, with
modern yet is still utterly respectful of its rugged exterior walls, deep window reveals
surroundings. It is the work of Tuscon- and overhangs that are sharply delineated
based HK Associates, established by by the strong desert sunlight. It implies a
husband-and-wife team Michael Kothke and cave or retreat, an impression that is swiftly
Kathy Hancox. Having initially followed dispelled by the dramatic living areas.
separate professional trajectories – working Kothke and Hancox reference the example
around the US and Canada with the likes of the geode, a rock that splits open to
of Patkau Architects and SOM, but never reveal a faceted, reflective interior.
sharing a studio – the couple first worked In the case of Ventana House, that interior
together in Arizona some 15 years ago, on is a light-filled space, with living and dining
a project with local luminary Rick Joy, located on the second floor, surrounded by
and founded their practice soon afterwards. glass walls, terraces and generous overhangs.
The desert context not only gave them a Slender glazing bars ensure that desert views
chance to join forces, but also allowed their are unsullied, bringing the cacti- and shrub-
sustainable approach to design to blossom. strewn landscape right into the living spaces.
Arizona’s environment is not to be taken The site is near the foothills of the Santa
lightly and materials, utilities and Catalina Mountains, the range that looms
landscaping must all be carefully planned above downtown Tucson. Raising the living
to create truly liveable spaces all year round. spaces also enabled a view of the horizon,
The newly finished Ventana House is something that wasn’t originally apparent
a showcase for the HK approach, described from the first site visit; it was only from the
by the architects as ‘a window on the desert’. branches of a large mesquite tree that this
The three-bedroom, 3,500 sq ft house is distant vista presented itself, along with
arranged over two storeys, partly embedded a way in which the house could be arranged.
in its rocky, sloping site. Responding to This spot is where you’ll now find the
the location, the building’s footprint was kitchen, a space at the very heart of the È

084 ∑
Architecture
 Architecture

home alongside a dining and living area, all

set beneath a sloping wooden roof. There
are terraces on two sides, with the northern
end given over to a desert-side perch with
a linear fire pit and a low concrete wall that
is the only barrier between house and
landscape. External steps lead down to the
ground floor, housing a garage, gym, laundry,
office, media room and third bedroom. The
cave metaphor continues throughout, with
oversailing roofs ensuring direct sunlight
is kept away, and sliding glass doors providing
natural cross ventilation. The two floors are
linked by a generous sky-lit staircase and
gallery space, bisected by a perforated steel
bridge at first-floor level, linking a bedroom
with an office and terrace. Perforated steel is
also used as a balustrade on the ground floor,
blowing finely traced shadows across the
white walls when the sun dips low.
The sloping ceiling ‘echoes the silhouettes
of the distant foothills’, says Kothke, and the
angles add a jaunty dose of midcentury style
to contrast with the rigorously solid shapes
of the exterior. Wherever possible, storage is
full height and built in, incorporated into
the plan to maximise the flow of the spaces
and the depth and density of the internal
divisions. The master bedroom is also on the
upper floor, a self-contained space out of sight
and mind of the main living area. The clients
are well-travelled design enthusiasts and
Kothke says that ‘the furniture selection is
integral to the architecture’. Classic designs
by Eero Saarinen and Charles and Ray Eames
are paired with more contemporary works
from brands such as Hay, Blu Dot and Muuto.
‘I think the most successful aspect of the
project is the immersive connection to the
outdoors as one moves through the home,’
says Kothke. ‘Turning each corner brings a
new engagement with the desert setting.’ He
refers to this framing as ‘cinematic’, noting
that every project begins with the use of
digital and physical models in order to define
and direct every ray of light and distant
vista. Kothke and Hancox have responded
to their adopted environment with a house
that not only makes the most of the view
but offers itself up as a geological fragment to
be explored. The framing might be carefully
considered but there is also room for chance –
Top, the top-floor dining area, beneath a sloping, alder-clad ceiling, what the architects call an ‘anticipated, yet
opens onto a shaded terrace. A ‘Radii’ table by Bensen is surrounded unknowable effect’. As a result, the Ventana
by ‘DSR’ chairs by Charles and Ray Eames house brings a welcome touch of the
Above, the three-bedroom house is rendered in dark grey concrete, unexpected to the modern desert dwelling. ∂
with overhangs, sheltered balconies and deep windows protecting
it from the strong desert sunlight hkassociates.net

086 ∑
MILANO DESIGN WEE K_1 6 -2 1 JUNE
HALL 24 | STAND E21 /F1 4
 Wine & Design

Featuring a trio of vaulted

roofs, Haras de Pirque’s
new HQ comprises a main
meeting room flanked by two
offices, all linked by a balcony

Triple barrel
Overlooking the vineyards of Pirque in Chile, this
colossal, triple-arched concrete building looks
more like a public landmark than the private office
of a family-run wine business. Mapa, the Chilean
architects of this modern monolith on the vast
Haras de Pirque estate, were given generous creative
Mapa makes waves with a monolithic office rein when designing this workplace for a father and
building for a winery in Chile’s Maipo Alto son. The brief asked them to celebrate the legacy
of winemaking in the Maipo River valley, in the
foothills of the Andes, and showcase a collection
of wine-related archival objects and heirlooms. È

PHOTOGRAPHY: PABLO CASALS-AGUIRRE WRITER: HARRIET THORPE ∑ 089

 Wine & Design

With this in mind, the building’s abstract form

might seem surprising. The design of these oversized
barrel vaults is rooted in local history: ‘The building
seeks to rescue the traditions of the old wine cellars
of the Central Valley in Chile, which were built
like underground vaults with brick masonry,’ says
Cristián Larraín, architect at Mapa.
This, of course, is no literal translation: by using
concrete instead of brick, and placing the building on
a hilltop rather than underground, Mapa has created
a proud monument to wine production in the Maipo
Alto, one of Chile’s most prestigious wine-producing
areas. Visible from the surrounding vineyards, it
celebrates a terroir 500-800m above sea level, where
the climate’s thermal oscillation (the difference in
temperature between day and night) is often more
than 20°C, favouring a slow ripening and therefore the
production of excellent-quality, deep-coloured wines.
As well as celebrating the region’s viticulture and
vernacular, the building houses Haras de Pirque’s
headquarters, from which the whole estate, including
an organic vineyard, a horseshoe-shaped wine
cellar, a restaurant and a stud farm (haras in Spanish),
is managed. Clockwise from top left, family’s treasured archive. Beyond religious and
Based in Providencia in Chile, and Madrid the new HQ sits on a hilltop, museum architecture, it’s rare that a building is
surrounded by sprouting
and Salamanca in Spain, Mapa’s team doesn’t have myrtles and boldos, an
designed specifically for an artwork, but display
any preconceived ways of working. Each of its olive grove and vineyards; of the tapestry was integral to the brief. The vaulted
projects, from private villas to museums, is a product the 15th-century Italian roof, rising above a high, columnless space with
tapestry around which the
of variables such as available local construction building was designed;
plenty of light, makes a perfect display case. The wide
techniques. ‘We always start by looking for a common the western façade, with central wall was measured specifically for the artwork,
language with the client, based on the place where the pigmented concrete walls which determined the scale and programme of
building will be located, on elements in the collective and slanted column everything around it.
memory,’ says Larraín. ‘From this, we investigate the From this statement meeting room, with the
most appropriate answers for the project.’ tapestry and the best views of the land, the rest of
The new winery building’s vaulted structure the space grew. Two offices for father and son were
is not merely symbolic. It also provided the best pushed to the outer vaults, while the reception,
functional solution for the display of a prized 15th- bathroom, kitchen and cellar were distributed across
century Italian tapestry in the central vault’s main the rest of the 330 sq m building. With its exposed
meeting room. The 3.6m high and 6m wide tapestry, pigmented concrete walls and ceramic floors,
which tells the story of the cultivation of wine and everything about the building is functional, yet it
its harvest, was acquired by the family in the early ∂
carries in its heavy walls plenty of meaning.
1990s in Paris, and has since become the jewel of the harasdepirque.com; mapaac.com

090 ∑
 The original.

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Manuela Wirth Iwan Wirth

West Side Story

 Art
Photography: Brigitte Lacombe
Producer: Michael Reynolds
Writer: Jessica Klingelfuss

Marc Payot Annabelle Selldorf

Designed by Annabelle Selldorf,

Hauser & Wirth’s new Chelsea
gallery is big, clever and inclusive
∑ 093
Art
Right, the clerestoried top floor of
Hauser & Wirth’s new Chelsea gallery,
at 542 West 22nd Street, boasts a vast
roof hatch to enable large works to be
craned in from the street
Opposite, Selldorf has conceived
a masonry façade, its grey palette
comprising sustainably sourced
concrete blocks and zinc panels

ew neighbourhoods in New York have freshly dried paint. Nearly every sight
undergone a transformation as striking line out of Hauser & Wirth’s still under-
or significant as Chelsea. Once an construction new home by Selldorf
industrial district, its gas stations and Architects leads to buildings cocooned
warehouses gave way to the inevitable in scaffold netting. Chelsea seems poised
tide of gentrification in the 1990s, after to emerge anew.
decades of neglect. An influx of art Swiss husband-and-wife team Iwan
dealers decamping from the bubble of and Manuela Wirth have maintained a
SoHo cemented its designation as the close relationship with Annabelle
city’s artistic epicentre – though traces Selldorf since the gallery’s inception in
of its history still reverberate in the 1992. Past collaborations with Selldorf ’s
column-free spaces and red-brick façades firm have seen the creation of galleries
that make up its warren of high-end in a former brewery complex in Zurich;
commercial galleries and luxury the Roxy roller rink on West 18th Street
residential developments. and an Upper East Side townhouse in
On a grey day during Armory Week, New York City; a listed bank building in
it’s the tony neighbourhood’s newest London; and an abandoned flour mill in
addition that has us braving New York’s Los Angeles (see W*205). Until now, the
fickle weather. Taking shelter in Hauser Wirths had mostly sought out buildings
& Wirth’s West 22nd Street bookshop with rich architectural histories,
from the sputtering drizzle, we don the drawing on their ‘innate character’.
necessary safety gear before the brisk But this latest project, notably, is the
walk next door. Inside, the air is coloured first purpose-built, ground-up building
with dust and the lingering balm of for Hauser & Wirth. È

∑ 095
TOPS ON TOP
Cindy Crawford on New Silestone Eternal Noir

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 Art

Above, well-thumbed plans for the gallery, which will be

finished with polished concrete floors and white walls

The new five-storey building sits next to and more exhibition spaces occupy the objective.’ As such, the column-free
Hauser & Wirth’s current Chelsea space upper levels, including a cathedral-like gallery spaces lend themselves to a wide
in the former Dia Center for the Arts, gallery – high-ceilinged with clerestory range of mediums and installation
although the two galleries won’t be windows – at the top. Even unfinished, approaches, easily adapted with
physically connected. Its ground and and strewn with construction debris temporary walls or the sealing of
first levels feature sliding concertina- instead of the art that will eventually be windows to accommodate both smaller
style glass doors that completely fold shown here, this expansive space speaks showings and blockbuster-size surveys.
away – a first for Selldorf in any of her of the Wirths’ ambition. Still, the anticipation lies in the
projects, she notes – opening the façade The new building offers Hauser & space being activated by visitors. ‘It is
up to facilitate the installation of larger Wirth new levels of flexibility. It offers the people who bring a space to life,’
artworks, as well as enticing passers-by its artists space big and smart enough to Manuela explains. ‘We see this again
with the art on view. The building’s match their ambitions, to display large- and again in the communal atmosphere
masonry façade will stand in stark scale works and larger-scope exhibitions. of the gallery spaces we create. It has
contrast to the original red-brick And offers visitors a museum-quality been a constant motivator since the
buildings that line West 22nd Street. viewing experience. Selldorf explains: earliest days of the gallery. The building
Selldorf has conceived a grey palette ‘When we work with a gallery or with a complements the art, but should never
comprising sustainably-sourced concrete museum, we think: “What kind of art dominate. If anything, we prefer that the
blocks and zinc panels, punctuated are you showing? How do you engage building is serene and understated – a
by generous glazed openings. the visitor? What are the requirements place in which our artists and team will
A multipurpose bar and event space to provide the greatest flexibility, but feel at home. This is deliberately not
on the second level will be used for a also the greatest balance between about a grand architectural gesture.’
programme of artist talks and public spaces?” And thinking about how people As with other Hauser & Wirth
gatherings. Private offices and viewing circulate in that space, what their locations, art is integral to the fabric of
rooms (with interiors outfitted by Rafael perception is, with or without daylight the building. ‘For me, the architectural
de Cárdenas to evoke domestic interiors) – it’s a process that’s not entirely experience not only supports the art È

∑ 097
 Art
‘I strongly believe you can
have the highest calibre
of exhibitions combined
with an informality that
feels inclusive’
– Iwan Wirth

Above and right, graffiti left by construction workers

pre-empt Hauser & Wirth’s displays, which will include
works by the likes of Louise Bourgeois and Jenny Holzer

experience, but is part of it,’ Selldorf respectively. This past autumn, Pace Although our art centres are a different
explains. To that end, artists Martin Gallery opened the doors to its eight- model of commercial gallery, they
Creed, Rashid Johnson, Mary Heilmann storey, 75,000 sq ft flagship designed are not institutions.’ Selldorf, whose
and Mark Bradford are plotting by Bonetti/Kozerski Architecture. own museum projects include the
permanent interventions in the Meanwhile, Gagosian has expanded forthcoming Frick Collection expansion
stairways, lifts, and elsewhere, engaging its 26,000 sq ft West 24th Street space in Manhattan, adds, ‘With Hauser &
directly with her architecture. ‘Making into an adjacent site (vacated by Mary Wirth, there is a kind of confluence
good art spaces is an iterative process,’ Boone Gallery and Pace Gallery last because there is a degree of service to
she adds. ‘You start with an idea, then it year), and David Zwirner is planning a people by incorporating hospitality and
gets thoroughly discussed, and so many Renzo Piano-designed tower on West educational programmes.’
factors play into it that eventually you 21st Street. But it’s not just size and space Inevitably there is concern that the
don’t even see them.’ that matters, it’s what you do with it. march of the new model mega-galleries
Hauser & Wirth is not the Hauser & Wirth has always in Chelsea is stifling opportunity for
only gallery upsizing in Chelsea. challenged accepted practices, but it smaller galleries and the emerging artists
A combination of soaring rents and was its reimagining of a farmhouse in they represent. Hauser & Wirth partner
rampant construction has sparked an the English West Country in 2014 that and president Marc Payot, who has
exodus of midsize Chelsea galleries in proved the full stretch of its ambition. worked with the Wirths for two decades,
recent years. In contrast, a handful of The Somerset art centre in Bruton has been the driving force behind the
blue-chip stalwarts and new-generation (see W*176) has become a model for its gallery’s growing US presence since he
power dealers are doubling down with dynamic approach to exhibition-making. relocated to New York in 2008. Payot
architecturally driven, museum-worthy ‘Galleries were intimidating spaces stresses that ‘smaller galleries are
spaces to attract blockbuster crowds. when I was starting out,’ Iwan recalls. ‘I essential to artists and to the public, and
In 2018, Lehmann Maupin and Kasmin strongly believe you can have the highest to the ecosystem of art sites where new
moved into purpose-built galleries by calibre of exhibitions combined with ideas and expressions evolve’, citing
architects Peter Marino and StudioMDA an informality that feels inclusive. Hauser & Wirth’s collaborative efforts È

∑ 099
 Art

‘Architecture remains
abstract and lives only in
one’s head until such time as
things are physically evident’
So says Annabelle Selldorf of this
month’s limited-edition cover.
Her black-and-white cover image
was taken at 542 West 22nd Street
during the final stages of
construction, when everything
was coming into place, bringing
to end a long process of thinking
and planning. The white element
in the foreground is the cupola for the building’s
main stair volume, temporarily placed within the
top-floor exhibition space.
‘This was one moment that I could enjoy this
object as a three-dimensional item – before being
installed and thereafter being an integral element of
another space,’ recalls the architect. ‘There it was –
a small object placed out of its intended context and
bathed in this powerful light. It bespeaks process
and the secret life of things.’ Shot on iPhone, the
image reflects Selldorf ’s personal relationship with
photography. She takes photos in lieu of keeping a
diary, building them into ‘a kind of visual notebook
of things that trigger ideas, or a record of things
I see and want to remind myself of.’ TF Chan
Limited-edition covers are available to subscribers,
see Wallpaper.com ∫

Above, architect Annabelle Selldorf takes a photograph

of the yet-to-be-installed staircase cupola, an image which
appears on our limited-edition cover this month

with its ‘great friends’ Karma in New can stay for a while to see exhibitions, amazingly complex terrain of art history
York, and Foksal Gallery in Warsaw as explore books, have a coffee, participate and intellectual history.’
examples. ‘We all learn from each other.’ in public programmes, and so forth. It’s a One word is used repeatedly by the
Hauser & Wirth’s blistering growth way of life for us, for our team, and for Wirths and Payot: ‘home’. It’s a thread
notwithstanding – in the last decade our artists. And we, of course, hope it is that runs through their locations
alone, it launched spaces in Somerset, a way of life for those who visit.’ worldwide, reflected in gallery additions
Gstaad, Los Angeles, Hong Kong and The new gallery will open with ‘The from the artist-designed Somerset guest
St Moritz, with Menorca slated for next Bride of God’, a group exhibition curated house to the Los Angeles restaurant.
year – the partners insist the artists by New York-based writer and curator Iwan, a self-professed bibliophile, has
remain their priority. ‘The evolution of Philip Larratt-Smith. Taking Daniel been instrumental in expanding the
the gallery has been gradual and based Paul Schreber’s 1903 book Memoirs of My gallery’s book publishing operations.
on a combination of instinct and Nervous Illness as a point of departure, Come for the art, stay for a drink at
strategic thinking. We have set out to the ambitious survey spans painting, Roth Bar, and peruse the high-gloss
create a diversity of spaces which sculpture, installation, and video art by publications on display. At its core,
mirrors the diversity of our artists’ Hauser & Wirth artists including Isa Hauser & Wirth is a tight-knit family
practice,’ says Iwan. ‘We respond to the Genzken, Jenny Holzer, Paul McCarthy, affair. After all, Iwan established the
artists’ needs, rather than our spaces Pipilotti Rist and Lorna Simpson. The gallery in 1992 with Ursula Hauser –
dictating the way they work.’ roster is complemented by works by Manuela’s mother. ‘Our gallery’s origin
Payot adds, ‘In that sense, this new artists not in the gallery’s stable, among as a family business touches every
building is just like all Hauser & Wirth them Francis Bacon, Agnes Martin and aspect,’ says Manuela. ‘We acknowledge
locations: its design and development Andy Warhol. Payot expands: ‘This that, as with family, relationships are
were informed by an overarching breadth is a manifestation of Hauser very important to all of us. From this
principle of creating community. We & Wirth’s global perspective and of a ∂
stable base, we feel free to innovate.’
have often described Hauser & Wirth’s desire that guides our programme all Due to open in autumn 2020, 542 and 548
spaces as “energy centres” where visitors the time: to connect the dots across an West 22nd Street, New York, hauserwirth.com

100 ∑
To celebrate Hauser & Wirth’s new home,
we get up close and personal with 14 of its
New York-based talents

Modern family
 Art

Mika Rottenberg Nicole Eisenman

b. 1976, Buenos Aires, Argentina b. 1965, Verdun, France
Combining film, architectural installation and sculpture, Rottenberg Drawing from her personal experience as an artist in New York City,
investigates ideas of labour and the production of value in our Eisenman explores narratives such as the dangers of technological
hyper-capitalist world, creating unsettling, subversive allegories dependence and the eternal dread of the future. Through expressive
for contemporary life. Weaving fact and fiction, she has worked paintings, she has spotlighted issues of gender, race, economic
in diverse locations, among them a pearl factory in China and imbalance and gun violence. Her monumental outdoor sculptural
a Calexico border town. Following her 2019 exhibition ‘Easypieces’ ensemble, Procession, was a highlight of the Whitney Biennial
at New York’s New Museum and MCA Chicago, and a show at in 2019. Eisenman is currently working on a number of solo museum
Hanover’s Sprengel Museum, Rottenberg is developing upcoming shows across the US and Europe, including presentations at
solo presentations for the Tai Kwun Centre for Heritage and Arts Nottingham Contemporary, the University Museum of
in Hong Kong, the Museum of Contemporary Art Toronto, and Contemporary Art (University of Massachusetts Amherst), and
Musée d’Art Contemporain de Montréal. Oslo’s Astrup Fearnley Museet.

∑ 103
George Condo
b. 1957, Concord, New Hampshire, US
Invented characters with bulging eyes, asymmetrical faces with
comical expressions, and bizarre bodies populate Condo’s work,
which pays tribute to Old Master portraiture while nodding to the
ambition and hysteria of contemporary American society. He has
collapsed hierarchies between painting and drawing, the beautiful and
the grotesque, and the comic and the tragic. His hallmark approach,
‘artificial realism’, involves ‘dismantling one reality and constructing
another from the same parts’. He recently unveiled his first major
public sculpture at New York’s Lincoln Center Plaza; titled
Constellation of Voices, it evokes both a sun god and a lowly street
performer, splendour and anxiety wrapped into one.
 Art

Matthew Day Jackson Glenn Ligon

b. 1974, Panorama City, California, US b. 1960, Bronx, New York, US
Jackson’s art grapples with big ideas, such as the evolution of Spanning painting, prints, photographs, sculptures and large-scale
human thought, the fatal attraction of the frontier, and the faith installations, Ligon’s work engages with text and found imagery to
that man places in technological advancement. Working across highlight African-American experiences, rendering a portrait of
a variety of media and using an eclectic material palette, he America as a concept, a place and a nation. Preferring to pose
interrogates the dual forces of beauty and desolation, particularly questions rather than propose answers, he engages the state of the
in relation to the myth of the American Dream. He is currently world and urges us to do the same. The mutability of images, and our
preparing a solo exhibition of new work to debut at Hauser & Wirth perception of them, are recurring themes. Ligon had works
Zurich in October. Foraying into design, Jackson is now expanding on view in the Duro Olowu-curated exhibition ‘Seeing Chicago’ at
his ‘Kolho’ furniture line, first introduced in 2019 and produced by MCA Chicago. He will also feature in the ‘Prospect.5, New Orleans’ art
Finnish manufacturer Made by Choice (see W*242), and he is also triennial, in the autumn, and is at work on upcoming solo exhibitions
collaborating with Calico Wallpaper on a special collection. at Hauser & Wirth New York, and Carré d’Art in Nîmes, France.

∑ 105
 Art

Nicolas Party Avery Singer

b. 1980, Lausanne, Switzerland b. 1987, New York City, US
Party’s familiar yet unsettling landscapes, portraits and still-lifes Singer’s paintings employ the binary language of computer
simultaneously celebrate and challenge the conventions of programmes and industrial materials in order to remove the
representational painting. Using soft pastels, he has created a universe traces of the artist’s hand, while engaging with past art historical
of fantastical characters and motifs, where perspective is heightened movements. Her themes have included typified art world scenarios,
and skewed to uncanny effect. He has also created public murals, sexuality, and the female figure. Through deploying new technologies
sculptures and architectural interventions to construct enveloping and disengaging with romanticised views of image-making,
experiences for his audience. Party has recently shown at the Flag Art Singer creates her own way of seeing. Her work is part of the
Foundation, New York, and at Hauser & Wirth Los Angeles. He is forthcoming exhibition, ‘The Paradox of Stillness: Art, Object,
now at work on a mural commission from RxArt for the Children’s and Performance’ at the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis.
Hospital Los Angeles, and a new exhibition at Museo d’Arte della She also has projects in the works at Hauser & Wirth New York
Svizzera Italiana Lugano, both debuting later in the year. in 2021, and a solo exhibition in Asia in 2022.

106 ∑
Lorna Simpson
b. 1960, Brooklyn, New York, US
Simpson came to prominence with her pioneering approach to
conceptual photography. Her early work, which juxtaposed text and
staged images, raised questions about the nature of representation,
identity, gender, race and history. She has since embraced film,
drawing, sculpture and painting (see W*228), offering powerful
critiques of institutional racism and sexism, and immersing viewers
in the paradoxes of contemporary American life. From her David
Adjaye-designed studio in Brooklyn, Simpson is working on a full
schedule of major exhibitions, including solo presentations at the
Kunstmuseum Thun, Switzerland, and Hauser & Wirth Los Angeles
in 2021, and at the Serlachius Museum in Finland in 2022.
Photo Andrea Ferrari

EDEN
DESIGN RODOLFO DORDONI
RODAONLINE.COM
IG: RODA.OFFICIAL
 Art

Jenny Holzer Ida Applebroog

b. 1950, Gallipolis, Ohio, US b. 1929, Bronx, New York, US
A conceptual artist, cultural force and erstwhile Wallpaper* A self-proclaimed ‘generic artist’ and ‘image scavenger’, painter and
guest editor (see W*247), Holzer is known for deploying text feminist Applebroog has spent the past half-century conducting
in public spaces to illuminate injustice and call for political a sustained enquiry into human relations. At once beguiling and
action. Beyond museums and galleries, her work has also appeared disturbing, her work explores themes of violence and power, gender
on storefronts, billboards and T-shirts, even projected on landmark politics, and women’s sexuality and domestic space. In an Applebroog
buildings at epic scale. Upcoming projects include commissioned exhibition, the visitor becomes an observer and participant in a
works for Castello di Ama, Château La Coste, Fondation Beyeler, and domestic drama, presented as fragmented narrative scenes.
K21. Holzer will be the subject of a major museum show at Seoul Box Applebroog was the subject of a solo show at the Kunstmuseum
this November, and will have an installation on view at MASS Thun in Switzerland in 2019, and an exhibition of her Mercy Hospital
MoCA until July 2021. She is also curating an exhibition devoted drawings, executed during her stay in a psychiatric clinic from
to Louise Bourgeois at the Kunstmuseum Basel in 2022. 1969–1970, opened at London’s Freud Museum in February.

∑ 109
 Art

Rashid Johnson Mary Heilmann

b. 1977, Chicago, Illinois, US b. 1940, San Francisco, California, US
Art history, individual and shared cultural identities, personal Known for her joyful approach to colour and form, Heilmann
narratives, literature and philosophy all factor into Johnson’s is among the most influential abstract painters of her generation.
multidisciplinary output. His work is embedded with everyday She is influenced by 1960s counterculture, the free speech
materials and objects, such as radios, shea butter, record covers movement and California’s surf ethos, overlaying minimalist
and tropical plants, often associated with his childhood and geometries with spontaneous gestures. Her work often has a
referencing aspects of African-American identity. He presented complexity that only gradually reveals itself to the viewer. She is
a new body of work at Hauser & Wirth New York last autumn currently working on an exhibition for the Manetti Shrem Museum
with his exhibition ‘The Hikers’, and is currently preparing works of Art at UC Davis, which will examine the sculpture and ceramics
to be presented at Hauser & Wirth London and the New Museum, she made as a graduate student at Berkeley while spending time
New York, as well as an outdoor sculpture commission at with the likes of William Wiley and Bruce Nauman, as well as her
Storm King Art Center in upstate New York. time as a visiting artist at UC Davis in the 1970s.

110 ∑
www.ton.eu

Grand Slam chair

designed by Alex Gufler AT/IT

Can be yours in May 2020

 Art

Annie Leibovitz Rita Ackermann

Additional writing: TF Chan, Diane Theunissen

b. 1949, Waterbury, Connecticut, US b. 1968, Budapest, Hungary

A leading portrait photographer and keen documentarian of social Ackermann’s work negotiates the opposing ideas of creation
landscapes, Leibovitz consistently fits style to technique through and destruction, and aggression and fragility. While trained in
collaboration with her subjects, photographing them in their homes printmaking, she is best known for large-scale paintings that
or locations of personal significance. Since her early years as a occupy a space between the figurative and abstract. She has also
photojournalist for Rolling Stone magazine, she has captured historical worked in collage, photography, sculpture and performance.
and cultural touchstones throughout the US and abroad. Her career Ackermann recently opened a critically acclaimed exhibition,
has dovetailed with, and advanced, photography’s evolution as a force ‘Mama ’19’, at Hauser & Wirth New York, debuting a series
for art making. In addition to participating in a major upcoming of paintings in which figures and motifs rise to the surface of
exhibition, ‘Le Noir et le Blanc dans la Collection Pinault’, in Rennes, canvases, only to dissolve and reappear elsewhere again. The
France, she is currently working on a solo show at Hauser & Wirth polymathic artist also collaborated with French fashion house
London, and publishing a new book with Phaidon in November. Chloé on its A/W20 catwalk collection.

112 ∑ Special thanks: Andrea Schwan and Janet Johnson

f u r n i t u re l i g ht ing access o r ies sy s te m s

N e w Yo r k | L o s Ang eles | d d cny c. co m

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 CONTENTS

123 Under the loupe

Our latest watch and
jewellery finds, from
diamond-motif lorgnettes
to steel sports watches,
a spine-tingling jewellery
collaboration, and
Hannah Martin’s
sparkling concrete
atelier in London
136 Space man
Pharrell Williams talks
exclusively to Wallpaper*
about his new Mars-
oriented watch design
138 Full circle
A New York jewellery
specialist on a 20th
century design that
symbolises 100 years of
his family business
140 Blitz spirit
No-rules jewels are the
order of the day
148 Lunch time
A bite in Paris with Bruno
Belamich and Carlos
Rosillo of Bell & Ross

Editor’s letter
Editor-in-Chief Fashion Director Fashion Assistant A hopeful air abounds in the 2020 edition of
Sarah Douglas Jason Hughes Aylin Bayhan Precious Index, our annual watch and jewellery title.
Leading the way, on page 136, is eternal optimist,
Editor Producer Global Sales Manager
design aficionado and self-confessed Wallpaper* fan,
Caragh McKay Alex Milnes Ben St George
super-producer Pharrell Williams. When we met
Art Director Assistant Watches Managing Director him in Miami to talk about his new Mars-inspired
Daniel McGhee & Jewellery Editor Malcolm Young watch design with Richard Mille, Williams waxed
Hannah Silver lyrical about the space race and the audacity of
human ambition in thinking without limits. That
sense of endeavour is reflected on page 129, where we
COVER ABOVE consider the watch industry’s design love-affair with
Photography: Geray Mena. Model: Neo Sarraf Photography: Rebecca Scheinberg. Model: Frieda steel, the wonder material that underpins the modern
at Wilhelmina. Casting: David Steven Wilton Munting at Select Models. Hair: Sky Cripps-Jackson.
at East. Grooming: Cathy Ennis using Make-up: Andjelka Matic using MAC Cosmetics world. The progressive mood spills over into our
Bumble & Bumble and Augustinus Bader Coat, £845, by Boss. Sunglasses, £390, by no-rules jewellery shoot on page 140. Photographed
‘Love’ white gold bracelets with diamonds, £9,650 Lindberg. ‘Cleopatra’ 18ct yellow gold-plated by Geray Mena, and styled by fashion director
each; ‘Love’ white gold bracelet, £6,050, all by Cartier. brass glasses chain, £480, by Frame Chain Jason Hughes, it shimmers with the heady 1980s
‘Cape Cod Chaine d’Ancre (Grand Modele)’ steel
watch with double-tour leather strap, £2,450, by individualism of London’s Club Kids culture.
Hermès. Coat, £3,600, by Dior. See page 140 Caragh McKay, Editor

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TIM E , A HE RMÈS OB JECT.

Arceau, L’heure de la lune

Time flies to the moon.
 UNDER THE LOUPE

Our latest watch and jewellery finds

Chain reaction Photography: Rebecca Scheinberg

Writer: Laura Hawkins

We’re linking up with the latest in optical ornaments

If you’re prone to losing your shades, you might want chains are punctuated with graphic hoops or dazzling
Above, buffalo horn lorgnettes to check out S/S20’s hottest accessory– the sunglasses crystals, are most alluring when viewed in profile. And
with brown diamonds, £3,750; chain. Optical accoutrements were eagerly eyeballed jewellery designer Rosa de la Cruz has also revelled
neck chain in ebony and on the Gucci catwalk where acetate chains, resembling in the retro, collaborating with heritage optical atelier
18ct yellow gold, £1,405,
both by Rosa de la Cruz chunky-link necklaces, swung from 1960s shades. The EB Meyrowitz on a series of lorgnettes with jangling
For stockists throughout, dazzling link creations produced by specialist brand oval-link chains and diamond-set frame motifs.
see page 196 Frame Chain (see previous page), where clinking gold gucci.com; framechain.co.uk; rosadelacruz.co.uk

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 UNDER THE LOUPE

Sherbet dip
Photography: Rebecca Scheinberg
Fashion: Aylin Bayhan
Writer: Hannah Silver

Virgil Abloh’s signet rings for Louis Vuitton hit the sweet spot

The more quotidian elements of design continue to in the same hues and with a lack of obvious
fascinate Virgil Abloh. And so, while at first glance his definition, the embellishment is rendered almost
pastel ‘Sculpture’ rings for Louis Vuitton appear like invisible. It is Abloh’s way of fusing old and
simple, graphic shapes in scrumptious sherbet shades, new; by seamlessly bridging the chasm between
a closer look reveals a raft of contradictions. the classical and contemporary, he draws our
Made from hard metal, with an acrylic-based attention to the evolving role of jewellery
varnish, the designs, which pinch details from through the rings themselves.
Haussmann’s Paris, are playfully weighted in French Further traditional references emerge in
history. Drenched in the same sweet tones as the familiar signet ring silhouettes. Reminiscent of
Above, ‘Sculpture’ rings, Louis Vuitton S/S20 menswear collection, the rings classic jewelled rings, here Abloh renders old
prices on request, by Virgil are encrusted in the type of intricate whorls and signifiers of power and fraternity anew. The ring
Abloh, for Louis Vuitton, from
Louis Vuitton stores only coils that curl around classical Paris columns, like becomes imbued with new symbols, its non-
Shirt, £250; trousers, £330, fragments from that city’s rich urban architecture. precious guise and cartoon-like shades challenging
both by Canali The effect is unexpectedly understated; coloured traditional values. louisvuitton.com

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Clockwise from top left, ‘The

Lure of Civilisation’ gold vermeil
hair pin with freshwater pearls,
£385, by Completedworks.
‘Grace Murano’ 14ct gold hair pin
with hand-blown crystal
orb, £550, by Sophie Bille Brahe.
Sterling silver hair pin
with freshwater pearl, £380,
by Nadia Shelbaya

Crowning glory Photography: Rebecca Scheinberg

Writer: Tilly Macalister-Smith

Hair jewellery is having something of a renaissance

The art of adorning one’s hair with jewels Sophie Bille Brahe, known for her is intriguingly called ‘The Lure of
had some ravishing moments back in the contemporary take on pearls and diamonds, Civilisation’. Meanwhile, up-and-coming
15th and 16th centuries. Botticelli, Raphael, found her muse in the Renaissance art designer Nadia Shelbaya’s Egyptian mother
Titian, Veronese and Velazquez all depicted movement and created a range of hair pins. and Danish father are to answer for the
Renaissance women with precious She says, ‘I was looking at Botticelli’s tension between decadence and modernism
ornaments in their braids and curls. Now, Primavera, where the Three Graces have long that runs through her work. This plays out
hair jewellery is having a renaissance of its flowing hair adorned with pearls, and also his in her new foray into hair pins, curvaceous
own with these lustrous embellishments Portrait of a Young Woman, where the hair is pieces that entwine silver and gold with
being designed for everyday use. laced with delicate strings of them. I’m so gemstones, diamonds and freshwater pearls.
Pearls are taking a starring role. Some inspired by the stories in these paintings.’ Meanwhile, creative use of existing jewels
ancient mythologies held that a pearl was Completedworks founder Anna Jewsbury can also see them doubling up as hair clips;
formed when lightning struck the sea, the has also evolved her line of ergonomic for example, a simple diamond tennis
new jewel a repository of elemental power. jewellery and ceramics to include a range bracelet, pinned along the hair parting, can
Pearls, it was thought, illuminated the face of hair accessories. These include a delicate add a sparkling touch. sophiebillebrahe.com;
of the wearer. Danish jewellery designer gold vermeil and freshwater pearl pin that completedworks.com; nadiashelbaya.dk

126 PRECIOUS INDEX

FLAGSHIP STORE - BÄRENGASSE 10 - 8001 ZÜRICH
HIERONYMUS-CP.COM

SCULPTURE PEN | GOLD

 UNDER THE LOUPE

Steel age
Photography: Rebecca Scheinberg
Fashion: Aylin Bayhan
Writer: Hannah Silver

Watch houses rework the metal that built modernity

Steel has long been the favoured material for goldsmith Gérald Genta had a different vision. His
making practical watches. Strong, light, economical, early 1970s modernist steel watch designs, including
Above, ‘Alpine Eagle’ hypo-allergenic and non-magnetic, it was perfect the ‘Royal Oak’ for Audemars Piguet and the ‘Nautilus’
watch in Lucent steel,
£11,200, by Chopard for pilots, engineers and the military, but not a for Patek Philippe, integrated case and bracelet in
Shirt, £265, by luxury material, not something to create dreams from. a single fluid loop. His use of handbrushed and
Margaret Howell That is, until the 1970s, when watch designer and polished metalwork, typical jeweller techniques, »

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 UNDER THE LOUPE

Right, ‘Nautilus’ ladies’

automatic watch in steel
and diamonds, £26,050,
by Patek Philippe
Jacket, £369, by Boss
Below, ‘Octo Roma’ watch
in stainless steel and rose
gold, £6,650, by Bulgari

created a new kind of luxury sports watch. And

it wasn’t long before women’s watches were just as
vigorously proportioned – the new Patek Philippe
ladies’ automatic ‘Nautilus’, which eschews the smaller
delicacy of earlier models with its most generous
dimensions yet, is a case in point. A dark grey opaline
dial, when framed by a diamond bezel, becomes
almost dainty. The grey steel hue of Bulgari’s
‘Octo Roma’ is made richer with rose-gold accents.
Chopard’s ‘Alpine Eagle’, meanwhile, although
crafted with heavy steel links, boasts a sleek, narrow
silhouette, bestowing steel with the elegantly
precious credentials it so richly deserves.
audemarspiguet.com; patek.com; bulgari.com; chopard.com

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 UNDER THE LOUPE

Shadow craft Photography: Jason Oddy

Writer: Jessica Diamond

A cult jewellery designer’s renovated atelier plays with patina and reflection

British jewellery designer Hannah Martin is no to be really beautiful but not in a hard way,’ she says.
stranger to London’s Hatton Garden; she has A poured concrete floor is offset with clay-plastered
occupied studio and atelier space on the edge of walls flecked with mica powder, a soft, reflective
London’s traditional jewellery quarter since 2008. material that gives the surface a tactile, gentle sheen.
But after a year of introspection, Martin has Four large showcases, inspired by the sculptures of
rebranded and recalibrated her collections, and Richard Serra, dominate the space, with bases welded
designed a new premises in Farringdon. together by a friend and left in the rain to rust and
Entered via an anonymous gated alleyway, a patinate to a soft orange. ‘They’re a great interruption
ground-floor entrance hall opens into her retail of the volume, but crucially they’re on casters, so we
and exhibition rooms. Extensive renovations, which can move them around,’ says Martin. ‘I wanted the
began early last year, saw the old building stripped flexibility to be able to throw a gig, or host a fancy
back to its bare brick walls and wooden beams. Says dinner, or collaborate with a photographer and hang
Martin, ‘We’ve rebuilt almost everything, but worked pictures on the walls; it should feel like a gallery, too.’
hard to capture the essence of the brand in the If an environment must echo the aesthetics of its
process.’ Known for her androgynous jewellery that owner, then Martin has achieved just this, successfully
Above, dominating Hannah harvests motifs from punk and rock ’n’ roll, Martin treading the fine line between a brutalist, industrial
Martin’s new atelier are four large
showcases, their bases left in the creates edgy and graphic pieces, handcrafted in oeuvre and cosseting luxurious space.
rain to rust and patinate to orange precious metals and gems. ‘We wanted the mood hannahmartinlondon.com

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 Nat u re. Fo rme d .
THE CURVE COLLECTION

W W W.G E O R G J E N S E N .C O M

CO P E N H A G E N • STO CK H O LM • LO N D O N • N E W YO R K • SY D N EY • TO KYO • MU N I CH • S I N GA PO R E • TA I P E I
 UNDER THE LOUPE

G
  othic
romance
A spine-tingling
jewellery collaboration
is coming up roses

Photography: Rebecca Scheinberg

Fashion: Aylin Bayhan
Writer: Laura Hawkins

A Clockwork Orange’s violent delinquents, The Shining’s corsages, spoons and keys. Indeed, it was the
creepy Grady twins, Suspiria’s sadistic ballerinas antithetical delicateness of Patcharavipa’s
– a medley of malevolent characters in classic horror approach that first fascinated Takahashi.
films have played an influential part in the previous ‘It started with the chain pieces in my recent
collections of Jun Takahashi, founder of cult Clues collection,’ explains Bodiratnangkura.
Japanese label Undercover. ‘Takahashi particularly liked their handcrafted
Now, for S/S20, Takahashi has turned his texture.’ For Bodiratnangkura, the designs were
spine-tingling view to Thai jewellery designer a series of firsts: it’s her debut fashion-brand
Patcharavipa Bodiratnangkura’s usual fine-jewellery collaboration, and her first time using sterling silver Above, rose ring; hoop earring;
long earring, all in 18ct
offering, which typically incorporates organic forms and vibrant resin enamel. ‘The pieces are lighter,’ gold-plated silver, Swarovski
and precious elements like mother-of-pearl and she says. ‘They offer better wearability.’ crystals and painted enamel,
texturised 18ct Siam gold. Patcharavipa’s gothic creations fittingly all prices on request, by
Patcharavipa x Undercover
‘I wanted to add something poisonous to the complement Undercover’s current collection, with
Shirt, £480; jacket, £900,
label’s creations,’ Takahashi says of their collaborative its highly saturated shades and tailoring emblazoned both by Acne Studios
collection, which is formed from lengths of uneven with unearthly illustrations by American writer Models: Frida Munting at
sterling silver chains and thorny tendrils, this time and artist Edward St John Gorey. ‘The colour in Select Models, Ade at Models 1
plated in 18ct gold, and dripping with blood-red the pieces makes real sense with the clothing,’ Casting: David Steven Wilton
Swarovski crystals or blossoming with crimson says Bodiratnangkura. ‘Roses are beautiful, but at East

painted-enamel roses. also have poisonous connotations,’ adds Takahashi Hair: Sky Cripps-Jackson

It’s a stylish swerve from the punkish panache of this darkly symbolic floral form. Make-up: Andjelka Matic using
MAC Cosmetics
of Undercover’s catwalk jewellery approach which, The collection will be available in Japan, at Undercover
Grooming: Linda Johansson
for the A/W19 menswear show, saw DIY brooches stores in Aoyama (Tokyo) and Sendai, and at Isetan at One Represents using
and necklaces formed from safety pins, fabric Shinjuku (Tokyo). undercoverism.com; patcharavipa.com Leonor Greyl and ADC Beauty

134 PRECIOUS INDEX

Space man
Portrait Robert Jaso
Photography Jerome Bryon
Interview Caragh McKay

Pharrell Williams considers

life on Mars, personal
gravity, and producing
a time machine with
Richard Mille

Mars is the god of war; Mars has a fire about it. Pharrell Williams wears the have the space to do what he needed to do.
Mars has been a big topic of conversation since Richard Mille ‘RM 52-05 It wasn’t like a super-fluid exercise.
Tourbillon Pharrell Williams’,
1971 when the first probes landed there. Mars limited edition of 30
is so symbolic to mankind. Think about it: if man The design is driven by Richard and I had clusters of deep dives, like
can make it to Mars, then what can’t we do Williams’ imagined depiction different beats about what we were trying to
collectively as a species on Earth – in the present? of space and Earth, reflected achieve. But then Richard might go and reverse-
on the helmet visor of an
So why not create that poetic gesture in the form astronaut on Mars, at the edge engineer some of these intentions. He designs art
of a watch, something that tells time. of the Valles Marineris. that is technical, but there is also a feeling, too.
The dial form is created in a Because when it’s right, it feels right.
This is a big deal. It’s my first actual watch stylised-spacesuit structure,
spray-painted white using an
collaboration. I’ve always dreamt of this and it airbrushing technique developed I think we’re bringing something new to the
was Richard who came up with the idea. We’re for Richard Mille by French category. Because of our tastes and the things that
not shooting for the moon, we’ve shot for Mars! street artist Kongo, and it rests stimulate us, I feel that we’re adding a pop. Think
on a Grade 5 titanium structure,
which connects the dial to about it, there’s the titanium and ceramic, that
I have a time machine on my wrist. I’ve been the movement. unique blend that Richard Mille engineered to give
saying this, and people are like, ‘OK, cool’. And The curved-dial landscapes are you the feeling of the surface of Mars. Then there’s
I’m like, ‘No, you don’t understand how amazing created using the champlevé also the reflection of that surface in the enamel
enamel technique, while the
the concept of time is.’ landscape is hand-engraved in and the helmet. And there’s the orange that also
red gold at the Pierre-Alain actually matches the hues of the surface.
It’s kind of like da Vinci’s paintings. This watch Lozeron engraving workshop
in La Chaux-de-Fonds. At either
is like art that actually works. I mean, the Apple side of the helmet, two white gold Our partnership was about introducing energy
Watch is awesome. It’s meant to do all these things elements, with a black sapphire that is not tethered down by the customary. We
that contribute to the vigilance of one’s health and and two diamonds, represent had the audacity to launch with an alternative orange
floodlights and cameras worn
one’s productivity. But this watch is dynamic art. by space explorers. strap, not just because it’s a cool colour, but because
There’s a whole lot of story going on in this watch. The case is created in Carbon it’s related to the story. The orange actually matches
TPT and micro-blasted cermet the hues of the surface of Mars. So we had the
Being a collaborator is what I’m good at. It’s (a high-performance composite audacity to go with what is right for the story, to be
of ceramic and metal).
my natural art form, to reduce one’s ego to allow loyal to the creativity and the concept.
The movement is the new
somebody else to feel less gravity, so that they Calibre RM 52-05 manual-
can just be themselves. That’s what a producer winding tourbillon. I don’t know if Mars has a sound. I suppose that
does. It was the same with this. The super-flexible hypoallergenic would depend on the atmosphere; how much the wind
rubber strap is designed for is blowing. They won’t let us see the water, so I don’t
ultimate air flow and 20kg
If it had just been me, this watch would have mechanical resistance. know. I guess it would depend on the elements.
been way different. But I needed to let Richard richardmille.com; pharrellwilliams.com

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DESIGN
DESIGN CLASSIC

138
Full circle
Photography Rebecca Scheinberg To mark the centenary of his
Fashion Aylin Bayhan
As told to Caragh McKay illustrious family business,
New York jewellery specialist
Lee Siegelson picks out a
design piece of shared heritage
and values

My grandfather, Louis Siegelson, opened his

watch-repair shop in Brooklyn in 1920. When my
father, Hy, took the helm, he expanded the business
to diamonds and jewellery, eventually occupying
the largest display window on 47th Street in the
heart of the Diamond District. I joined my father
in 1992, but when he died two years later, I began
refashioning Siegelson as an appointment-only
business focusing on 20th-century masterpieces.
For me, the ‘Giraffe’ set sums up the Siegelson
way – it has no big gems or obvious beacons of value.
We have many rare pieces that do, but this is simply
an exceptionally crafted design. The lacquered Oréum
(a branded gold alloy) necklaces and bracelets are the
work of sculptor, craftsman and jewellery designer
Jean Dunand. They speak of a specific moment in the
1920s when the value of the material wasn’t as
important, but the design was. In this case, Dunand
used a series of stacked line necklaces to evoke the feel
of something exotic but modern, not least because of
how the metal was engineered to make an elegantly
concentric line on the neck and on the wrist.
A similar model was made for Josephine Baker, who
was Dunand’s muse. Recently returned from a major
exhibition, ‘The Jazz Age: American Style in the 1920s’,
at Cooper Hewitt and the Cleveland Museum of Art,
the set owned by Siegelson is the largest known, with
six pieces in total. We regularly loan pieces of jewellery
to exhibitions, and we also work with museums who
wish to buy important jewellery for their collections.
In honour of our centenary this year, we will donate
three significant pieces to three museums this year.
I am always looking to buy great pieces by Dunand,
but ‘Giraffe’, if it comes up at all, is usually offered in
singles or doubles. When a set of three necklaces and
bracelets, in the iconic red and black lacquer, came up
for sale, I just had to buy it. It will probably be the
most complete set ever to come on the market. And so
it feels like we have come full circle – that many of the Above and opposite, ‘Giraffe’ lacquer and
Oréum necklaces and bracelets, prices on request,
greatest pieces I now offer were first created at the by Jean Dunand, from Siegelson New York
same time my grandfather was opening his store. ∂ Top, £4,300; skirt, £12,400, both by
siegelson.com. Siegelson New York regularly loans to Hermès, hermes.com
exhibitions. Recent acquirers include Museum of Fine Arts Model: Frieda Munting at Select Models
Boston, Newark Museum, and The Cartier Collection Casting: David Steven Wilton at East

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 Blitz Spirit
Photography Geray Mena
Watches & Jewellery Director Caragh McKay
Fashion Jason Hughes

No-rules jewels take centre stage

140 PRECIOUS INDEX

This page, ‘Rose de Noël’ earring in black
mother-of-pearl, gold and diamonds, £22,100 for
pair, by Van Cleef & Arpels. ‘Big Knot Necklace No.1’
in oxidised silver, £160, by Saskia Diez. High
jewellery ‘Rose’ white gold brooch with pink and
white diamonds, price on request; ‘Miss Daisy’
white gold and diamonds hair pins (worn as brooch),
£4,500 each; ‘Miss Daisy’ safety pin brooch, £2,600,
all by David Morris. ‘Paillettes Button’ sterling silver
brooch, £55; ‘Grand Mixed Choker’ sterling silver
chain (looped to pin), £109, both by Saskia Diez.
‘Le 7g’ sterling silver ring, £245; ‘Le 5g’ sterling
silver ring, £185, both by Le Gramme
Jacket, £1,365, by Comme des Garçons
Homme Plus. Vest, £30, by Sunspel.
Hat, €375, by Maison Michel
Opposite, ‘Mixed Bold’ sterling silver ear cuff,
£80, by Saskia Diez. High jewellery ‘Dior et Moi’
earring in gold with emerald, diamonds, pearl and
lacquer, price on request, by Dior Joaillerie. ‘Gold
Dip’ sterling silver identity chain, £820, by Bunney
Jacket, £1,950, by Celine by Hedi Slimane
 JEWELLERY

This page, ‘Athena’ vermeil snake chain, £79, by ‘Seashell’ white gold brooch (two parts) with
Hermina Athens. ‘Fellini Croix’ gold necklace with diamond, rubies and pearls, price on request,
freshwater pearls, £1,250, by Sophie Bille Brahe. by Cindy Chao The Art Jewel. ‘Key’ white gold
‘Chaîne d’Ancre’ rose gold brooch with black spinels, pendant (worn as brooch) with diamonds and
price on request, by Hermès sapphires, £6,950; ‘Small Bee’ white gold brooch
Jacket, £1,930; shirt, £1,225; trousers, £1,755, with diamonds and sapphires, £4,250; ‘Small Bee’
all by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello white gold brooch with diamonds, £4,500, all by
Theo Fennell. ‘Grecian’ sterling silver necklace
Opposite, ‘Silver Bold’ sterling silver ear cuff, £80, by (looped to brooch), from £160, by Hermina Athens
Saskia Diez. ‘Le 253g’ sterling silver chain necklace,
£1,835, by Le Gramme. ‘Big Knot Necklace No.3’ in Jacket, £2,600, by Berluti. Gloves, £187, by Ines
sterling silver, £160, by Saskia Diez. High jewellery

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 JEWELLERY

This page, high jewellery ‘Waterfall’ white ‘St Christopher’ 18ct gold signet ring; ‘Hammered
gold earring with South Sea pearls and diamonds, Signet’ 18ct gold ring (both worn on pins as
£286,000, by Tasaki brooches), both price on request, all by Bunney
Jacket, £700, by Acne Studios. Hat, $248, by Clyde Jacket, £1,180, by Raf Simons
Opposite, Neo wears ‘Grecian’ vermeil chain, £67; Pascal wears ‘L’Esprit du Lion’ gold earring with
‘Zena’ vermeil chain, £189, both by Hermina Athens. yellow beryl and diamonds, price on request, by
‘Rose de Noël’ white mother-of-pearl and gold brooch Chanel Fine Jewellery. Vermeil chain, £84, by
with diamonds, £20,100, by Van Cleef & Arpels. Bjørg. ‘Bulgari Bulgari Gelati’ gold brooch with onyx
18ct gold badge, £2,060, by Bunney. Gold ring with and diamonds, £3,470; ‘Serpenti’ gold ring with
black diamond, £7,200, by Ara Vartanian. Large diamonds and emeralds, £36,000, both by Bulgari.
‘Rose de Noël’ mother-of-pearl and gold brooch with ‘Le 13g’ gold ring, £2,720; ‘Le 45g’ gold bracelet,
diamonds, £29,100; small ‘Rose de Noël’ gold brooch price on request, both by Le Gramme
with white mother-of-pearl, £20,100, both by Jacket, £970, by Paul Smith
Van Cleef & Arpels. 18ct gold badge, £1,150;

144
145 PRECIOUS INDEX
146
 JEWELLERY

This page, ‘Hex’ white gold and diamond Neo wears ‘Chaîne d’Ancre Punk’ silver earring,
earring, £13,000 for pair, by Jessica McCormack. £770 for pair, by Hermès. ‘Kofuku no ki’ cultured
‘Traditionnelle’ white gold and diamond Akoya pearl brooch, £1,700; ‘Kofuku no ki’ cultured
pavé watch with leather strap, £54,500, by Akoya pearl and diamond brooches, £4,400
Vacheron Constantin each; ‘Kofuku no ki’ cultured Akoya pearl and
Jacket, £1,798, by Casablanca. Vest, diamond brooch, £6,600, all by Mikimoto
£30, by Sunspel. Gloves, £71, by Dents Jacket, £1,095; trousers, £275, both by Dunhill
Opposite, Pascal wears ‘Ball n Chain’ gold necklace, For stockists, see page 196
£17,850, by Jessica McCormack. ‘Légende’ Models: Neo Sarraf at Wilhelmina,
gold medallion pendant with carnelian and ruby, Pascal Wilke at Kult London
£3,650; ‘Légende’ gold medallion pendant with
diamonds and lapis lazuli, £3,560 (both worn Casting: David Steven Wilton at East
on pins as brooches), both by Chaumet Grooming: Cathy Ennis using Bumble & Bumble
Jacket, £2,295, by Dunhill and Augustinus Bader

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 LUNCH TIME

A bite with Bell & Ross Photography: Marvin Leuvrey

Writer: Caragh McKay

A trip to restaurant Oxté in Paris with the founders of the watch marque

Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo met when they seated, Mexican owner and chef, Michelin-starred
were 14 years old and ‘have been together ever since’. Enrique Casarrubias, steps out of his visibly busy
Before setting up watch house Bell & Ross (a riff on kitchen, presided over by a Bell & Ross wall clock, to
the first three letters of each surname) in Paris, they greet us, adding to the bonhomie. ‘We are always at
were, effectively, family. ‘When Bruno’s family left home in a family environment,’ says Rosillo.
their Burgundy home to come to Paris, he didn’t love Between courses, we speak about their likes and
it,’ says Rosillo. ‘We met at school and I was loves: cigars, their wives and children, Velázquez, yoga,
introduced to Bruno’s family. They were very tai chi, 1970s Japanese watch design and their last big
welcoming. His grandmother even made bread for us.’ release, the ‘BR 05’ watch line. A mash-up of key
As teenagers, Belamich and Rosillo shared a passion Bell & Ross designs, and a more commercial offering
for technology and watches, which led Belamich to than the defining slim, square-dial cockpit instruments
a design position with German watch brand Sinn. for the wrist that made the Bell & Ross name, the steel
Rosillo, meanwhile, studied finance. In 1992, they ‘BR 05’ is a handsome, everyday timepiece that has
joined forces to realise their vision for a design-driven been enthusiastically received across the globe.
Bruno Belamich, wearing the brand, creating functional watches for professionals, Occasional turbulence is, of course, a factor in any
new ‘BR 05’ blue dial on a
rubber strap, and Carlos Rosillo, and started dragging prototypes to watch fairs. relationship, but the pair are in it for the long haul.
wearing the new ‘BR 05’ black A few years later, Chanel chairman Alain Wertheimer ‘It’s easier to manage a business when there are two
dial, steel bracelet version, offered them investment, and remains a shareholder. of you – it gives you balance, a better perspective.
photographed at their Paris office
in a 19th-century townhouse We talk over lunch at their favourite restaurant, It’s about trust,’ says Belamich. ‘We have common
in the 16th arrondissement Oxté, in Paris’ 17th arrondissement. As soon as we are values and life philosophies,’ concurs Rosillo. ∂

148 PRECIOUS INDEX

 MANSART Magnum Automatique

47 Lexington Street, Soho

Harrods, Fine Watches
Knightsbridge, London

Selfridges, Premium Watches

on Lower Ground
400 Oxford Street, London

MARCH LA.B
47 Lexington street
London W1F 9AW
 Fashion

Out of the blue

Japan’s bespoke Haruhito Jeans come with local tradition and a sleepover

The first pair of made-in-Japan jeans was created in Hangloose, which specialises in ageing jeans using a
Okayama in 1963 by Canton, in partnership with Oishi variety of sanders and washing techniques to bring out
and Maruo Clothing. Since then, the western region that perfect used look, or Sunami Sewing Machines, Some of Haruhito Jeans’
has become a go-to area for quality denim; many of whose fourth-generation president Tatsuya Sunami models at the brand’s
Europe’s leading brands, including Chanel, Prada and travels the region and beyond to fix and customise workshop in Himeji, Kansai.
Dior, buy their denim from the local Kuroki Mills. the tools of the trade used by small manufacturers who Customers can choose
In the small harbour town of Kojima, looking out over can’t afford to employ their own engineers. He also
between 30 types of denim,
all made by Kuroki Mills, and
the Seto Inland Sea, you will find companies such as has a weakness for collecting old sewing machines; È pocket linings in 20 colours

PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRISTOFFER RUDQUIST WRITER: JENS H JENSEN ∑ 151

Your passport to global style
More than 60 compelling cities refined into essential travel-sized
guidebooks and apps at www.phaidon.com/wcg
 Fashion

a visit to his warehouse on the outskirts of Kojima and, after having spent two full days with him, I knew
tells the history of the denim trade in the hundreds just what I wanted.’ Terasaka’s jeans are super wide,
of old Pegasus, Ace, Brother and Toyota machines, in dark indigo denim, with the right front pocket seam
all waiting to be overhauled or used for spare parts. finished with a cool metal grey thread as opposed to
A bit further east, in the castle town of Himeji, the black thread used everywhere else. ‘I love wearing
Kentaro Konishi, the young founder of Haruhito Jeans, these jeans and knowing there is only one pair exactly
has turned his father’s old garage into a cosy but highly like these anywhere in the world. I also always
efficient bespoke jeans workshop. Haruhito was the remember the fun times I spent with Konishi when
first name of Konishi’s father. ‘My father was a big I put them on,’ Terasaka says.
inspiration for me. He was a racing driver until he Early on, Konishi knew he wasn’t meant to follow
was 30 and then made a living from restoring super the traditional Japanese trajectory from schoolboy
cars until he died,’ says Konishi, who has made it a to company employee. ‘I really didn’t see the point
policy to produce only 200 pairs a year. ‘What I like of going to school. I couldn’t sit still or concentrate.
about my work is the interaction with my customers,’ So I just stopped going in my second year of middle
he says. ‘I love chatting with them while they decide school.’ At 23, after seven years’ working in fashion
on what kind of jeans they want and we pick the retail with a speciality in jeans, he started a three-year
colours of the fabric, backing, rivets and thread. My course at the Chugoku Design College in Okayama, the
jeans are just an excuse for meeting people.’ only college in Japan with a specific denim programme.
One of Konishi’s fans is Hiroshi Terasaka, who runs Just months into the course, he felt confident enough
the Sawvih café and gallery in Kamakura, near Tokyo. to start selling his own jeans, but didn’t know how to
Terasaka has known Konishi for a couple of years and connect with customers. ‘I was going quite a bit to the
hosted a Haruhito pop-up last year. ‘I’ve been wanting Yebisu Ya Pro club in Okayama. One evening I got
to order a pair of Haruhito since I first met Konishi talking with one of the bartenders and told him about
my jeans.’ One thing led to another, and soon Konishi
was taking orders for his bespoke jeans in a corner
‘I want to take bespoke further, inviting of the club. ‘I’d do anything to please the clubbers,
so I ended up with a long list of complicated special
customers to be a part of the making’ orders that was a real pain to sort out and make.’ È

Left, Haruhito Jeans’ founder Kentaro Konishi

at the workshop and, above, cutting denim

∑ 153
 Fashion

In 2014, he formally set up Haruhito as a brand. He

only sells directly to his customers, either at the atelier
in Himeji or at one of the roadshow pop-ups he does
around Japan. He doesn’t have a website, but posts
information on upcoming showcases on Instagram.
Later this year, he is planning to move the atelier to
his grandparents’ home nearer Okayama proper. The
old Japanese house has recently been fully renovated
and besides the spacious atelier in what used to be
a lean-to, there will be a showroom displaying the
full Haruhito line and also a separate guest room for
patrons to stay while Konishi tailors their jeans. ‘I want
to take bespoke a step further by inviting customers
to be a part of the making process,’ he says. He will
continue to do the bulk of the sewing, but customers
will have the option of stitching some of the simpler
seams. In the true spirit of Japanese hospitality, he is
also planning to take guests out for dinner at his
favourite local restaurant.
For now, customers pick from six basic silhouettes
or one of his more fashionable pleated jeans. He offers
an impressive line of 30 different kinds of denim; five
different buttons and rivets; and the option of adding
D-Rings for keys (handmade by a jeweller-friend in
Tokyo) to the belt loops. ‘But I am more and more into
monotone colours and simple shapes. If I give customers
too many options, I might end up having to make a pair
of jeans I don’t really think is cool,’ he says.
And cool they are. It’s not just the superior Kuroki
fabric and the impeccable stitching. It’s the little
details. Like the backing of all rivets with a thin piece
of leather for added strength, or the thick, made-
to-order leather-and-wax-seal back-pocket tag that
customers are invited to cut off at their preferred
Top and above, Konishi is relocating his business length. Konishi even promises to repair any pair of
to his grandparents’ home, near Okayama. It will
house a workshop, showroom and guest room jeans as long as he is alive. So you might never need
to buy another pair of jeans again. ∂
@haruhito_jeans_official

154 ∑
Train at home with Technogym
Bike Personal is the new icon of style and innovation
designed by Antonio Citterio.
Call +39 0547 650111 or visit technogym.com

Technogym products and services are only available through direct sales
 WILDEST DREAMS
We’re craving a getaway to this Costa Rican cluster of jungle retreats
WRITER: ADAM ŠTĔCH

Following the sale of Eyelevel, the successful villa, Atelier, just down the hill; and Coco, highlighting simplicity and pure lines’.
Prague-based retail branding and production a collection of four one-bedroom pods. Inside the open-plan space, dappled light
company he co-founded in 2002, Filip Žák Žák was keen to create an unconventional filters through the perforated façade panels
and his wife Petra quit city life and headed getaway in their ‘small and beautiful corner onto furnishings such as Paulo Mendes da
to the hills of Costa Rica. On a remote plot of the world’, working with three different Rocha’s ‘Paulistano’ chairs, and ‘Shibari’
overlooking Playa Hermosa, on the country’s architects to create a unique style for each glass pendant lamps by Czech brand Bomma.
south-western coast, framed by six acres space. For Atelier, Dagmar Štěpánová, of Coco, also designed by Formafatal
of emerald jungle, they commissioned a Prague-based studio Formafatal, created with the Prague-based Archwerk, completes
family home, a five-bedroom concrete house a low-key, clean-lined perforated aluminium the resort, which includes a fitness suite,
designed by Prague studio Refuel Works. and burnt teak structure that slots right a multifunctional space for yoga classes,
They then began slowly transforming their into the lush thickets of tropical wilderness a 5m-long waterslide connecting Art Villa to
patch into a resort, which now encompasses and, as Štěpánová says, ‘erases the boundaries the pool at Coco, and a glass-roofed shelter,
the original house, Art Villa; a five-bedroom between interior and exterior, while with mosquito nets for walls, meant for

156 ∑
 Checking In

Clockwise from main picture, Art Villa sits at the top

of the resort, while Atelier is in the foreground and
one of the Coco pods can just be glimpsed through
the trees; the circular pool at the main entrance to
Art Villa; a bedroom in Art Villa, featuring a ‘Shibari’
pendant, designed by Kateřina Handlová for Bomma

overnight jungle experiences. Spend

your days wallowing in Atelier’s infinity
pool followed by an evening cocktail on
the green roof, which looks out across to
Costa Rica’s famous Whale Tail peninsula
(an area of land in the shape of a whale’s
Photography: BoysPlayNice

tail that juts out into the Pacific Ocean)

before tucking into a meal cooked by
your own private chef using fresh organic
ingredients from local farms and markets.  ∂
Punta Achiote Road, Playa Hermosa, Costa
Rica, tel: 506.840 170 42, artvillas.com.
Rates: Art Villa, $950; Atelier, $450; Coco, $150
 Shop now at store.wallpaper.com

‘Barrel’ vase,
Bitossi Ceramiche
—— €475 ——

‘Angui’ mirror,
AYTM
—— €155 ——

‘Sphere’,
Bosa
—— €146 ——
‘JWDA’ lamp,
Menu
—— €299 ——

‘Accent’ table,
Mater
—— €650 ——

‘Traffic’ armchair,
Magis
—— €1,830 ——

‘Strom’ vase,
Raawii
—— €83 ——

‘Kerman’ pouf,
E15
—— €792 ——

‘Chipo’ rug, ‘Terrazzo’ side table,

CC-Tapis Serax
—— €4,380 —— —— €180 ——
 Travel

DEPARTURE INFO
Stylish new cafés in Bangkok and Copenhagen; exotic flavours in
Switzerland and Poland; plus snug stopovers in Mexico and China

Sweet spot
DROP BY DOUGH, BANGKOK

Bangkok has no shortage of bakeries, but

few pair up sweet treats with praiseworthy
design. Narongrit Sritalanon and
Chalermphol Akkarapinyokul, the brains
behind a popular Thai lifestyle blog, saw
an opportunity after visiting artisanal
doughnut makers from Seoul to Copenhagen.
In collaboration with Bangkok-based designer
San Sephu, they restored a ramshackle
townhouse in the up-and-coming suburb
of Udom Suk into a Scandi-chic café with
arched doorways and double-height ceilings.
The interior delivers a medley of teak
panelling and cream walls, punctuated by
jolts of Prussian blue in the tiles and
upholstery. Furnishings by Louis Poulsen
and Herman Miller complete the look, as
do the various artworks the owners brought
back from travels around the globe. Most
importantly, the pillowy doughnuts, in
flavours such as berry rose and Kyoto green
tea, prove that Drop by Dough is more than
just a shutterbug hotspot. Chris Schalkx
Sukhumvit Road 101/2, BTS Udomsuk Exit 1,
Bangkok, Thailand, @dropbydough

Home run
BEAST X GUBI HOUSE, SHANGHAI

After five years of renovations, Danish design

company Gubi and Chinese lifestyle brand
Beast have unveiled a boutique hotel and
café in a 100-year-old mansion in Shanghai’s
former French Concession. Designed with the
help of local studio Chaos Programme, the
sleek, three-storey property’s interiors reflect
the buzzing city’s distinct blend of modern
and historic. Gubi’s elegant designs appear
throughout, including in the two guestrooms,
event space and ground-floor café, while
contemporary artworks curated by Beast add
to the intimate ambiance, as do views of the
charming private garden. Cat Nelson
15 Tao Jiang Road, Xuhui District, Shanghai,
China, [email protected]

PHOTOGRAPHY: DIRK WEIBLEN ∑ 159

 Travel

Curve appeal
CASA HOYOS, SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE

A sparkling 16-room boutique hotel in the

historical heart of San Miguel de Allende,
Casa Hoyos was converted from a fading
17th-century family manor by architect
Andrés Gutiérrez. An internal courtyard
that once stored seed and grain has been
reimagined as the lobby and rooms, while a
palette of burnt oranges and yellows swathes
the graciously proportioned loggias and
public spaces, decked with armchairs by
Comité de Proyectos and tapestries by Meli
Ávila. The rooftop terrace, meanwhile, is the
spot for a sunset cocktail of Lavender Sour
hit with Meyer lemons and violet liqueur,
paired with shrimp ceviche. Daven Wu
14 Mesones Zona Centro, San Miguel de Allende,
Mexico, casahoyos.mx. Rates: from $130

Past perfect
LILLE PETRA, COPENHAGEN

Furniture, lighting and accessories brand editions of Verner Panton’s iconic ‘Flowerpot’ ingredients, including herbs grown in
&Tradition continues to keep things fresh lamps, dark walnut chairs by Hvidt & the courtyard, and revisited versions of
at its Copenhagen HQ with an update of Mølgaard, and elegant black round tables Denmark’s signature smørrebrød open
its on-site café, Lille Petra. Named after by local studio Norm Architects. Serving sandwiches, alongside warm rødgrød porridge
architect Viggo Boesen’s Funkis-style lounge breakfast and lunch, the restaurant’s menu and classics such as herring served with
chair, the space is characterised by earthy has been created together with Søren Westh, toasted rye bread. Gabriele Dellisanti
tones and a muted colour palette, and pieces chef and founding partner of local culinary Kronprinsessegade 4, Copenhagen, Denmark,
from the brand’s collection, including various lab .506. It features local, fresh, organic tel: 45.53 880 233, andtradition.com

160 ∑ PHOTOGRAPHY: DIEGO PADILLA

 Moroso
Udine Milano London
Amsterdam Köln
Gent New York Seoul
moroso.it
@morosofficial

Gogan
by Patricia Urquiola - 2019
The Beetle tapestr y
by Tord Boontje - 2018
ad Designwork – photo Alessandro Paderni
set coordinator Marco Viola
 Travel

Haute cuisine
THE JAPANESE BY THE CHEDI, ANDERMATT

Conveniently located at the intersection

of three cable car lines, this new slopeside
restaurant is perched on Mount Gütsch
in the Swiss ski resort of Andermatt. The
handsome stone- and timber-clad eyrie,
by London-based Studio Seilern Architects,
was inspired by a luminous carved stone
sculpture by Spanish artist Manolo Valdés.
The Chedi’s chutzpah in opening a casual
outpost of its Michelin-starred Japanese
restaurant at this altitude (2,300m above
sea level) is matched by Studio Seilern’s
serene design of the high-ceilinged volume,
where the Alpine tableau visible through
the oversized windows is anchored by pine
panels, a sushi bar made of reconstructed
stone, and Muoser furniture. The best seats
in the house are on the wide outdoor terrace
overlooking the Andermatt Valley, though
head chef Dietmar Sawyere manages to
distract with a mix of shidashi bento boxes,
omakase, kaiseki and tempura. DW
Gütsch-Express mountain station, Andermatt,
Switzerland, thechediandermatt.com

On the waterfront
MARTIM, WROCŁAW

The latest restaurant project from Wallpaper*

favourite Buck Studio channels Portuguese
chic by way of a canalside perch in Wrocław.
Set on the ground floor of a block of luxury
apartments, Martim offers a Portuguese
seafood menu paired with an interior cloaked
in rust reds and deep sea-greens, a bar and
wine cabinets clad in cork panels, and a
perforated sloping ceiling that acts as a sound
dampener. From the open kitchen, head chef
Nuno Matos orchestrates petiscos de bacalao
and seafood cooked in a cataplana copper pot.
A comprehensive wine list of Portuguese
vintages, and views across the Odra River,
complete the ensemble. DW
Pomorska 1B, Wrocław, Poland, tel: 48.538 494 840,
@martim.wroclaw

162 ∑ PHOTOGRAPHY: ROLAND HALBE, PION STUDIO

IRISVONARNIM.COM
 Travel

ARTFUL LODGER
A villa thriller in Cape Town’s Hout Bay, Nobu’s second London
hotel, and a verdant beach resort on Malaysia’s east coast

Square space
NOBU HOTEL PORTMAN SQUARE, LONDON
12: South African
artists whose work is Japanese restaurateur-turned-hotelier
featured in the house.
Among the pieces is Nobu Matsuhisa is really showing London
this steel sculpture some love. He is set to unveil the British
by Rodan Kane Hart capital’s second Nobu Hotel later this year, 27: Length in metres
this time swapping the gentrified edginess of the counter in
of Shoreditch for the considerably more the Ember Beach
soigné setting of Marylebone’s Portman Club restaurant
Square. Working with Make Architects,
David Collins Studio has transformed the 1,695: Handcrafted
former Radisson Blu into a 249-room
pieces, including this
handwoven songket
minimalist bolthole. From the entrance all above a guest room bed,
the way up to the penthouse, the aesthetic made by Sarawak-based
is the by-now familiar MO of Japan-lite
Tanoti Crafts, a collective
of female weavers
accented with tactile fabrics, bespoke
furniture and artwork. All the accoutrements
of a big-city hotel are accounted for –
11: Columns supporting the including a 700-person ballroom – but it’s
cantilevered bedrooms familiar pleasures that will lure Nobu
devotees through the front door of the
72: Pieces of furniture, brand’s 11th hotel, not least an outpost of the
including this sideboard owner’s eponymous restaurant, where pride 50: Length in
in the entrance hall, of place in the modern South American- metres of the main
custom-made by Future infinity pool, which
Found Design Agency inflected Japanese menu is reserved for the points towards the
especially for Villa Verte signature black cod miso. DW ocean and horizon
22 Portman Square, W1, tel: 44.20 7208 6000,
london-portman.nobuhotels.com. Rates: from £345

View finder Coast with the most

VILLA VERTE, CAPE TOWN 1,120: Temperature in ONE & ONLY DESARU COAST, MALAYSIA
degrees Celsius of the
Following the success of their Maison Noir glassblowing fire used to For various historical and infrastructural
property, Cape Town hoteliers Jim Brett create Jeremy Maxwell- reasons, Malaysia’s resorts have all tended
and Ed Gray have unveiled the four-suite
Wintrebert’s cloud pendant to cluster along its west coast, leaving the
Villa Verte on an adjoining plot of land. eastern flank in a remarkably pristine
Seven years in the making, the project is condition, thick with virgin rainforests and
set against a forested hillside, with views soft-sand beaches. Capitalising on this
clear across Hout Bay and the Constantia natural bounty is the One & Only group’s
Nek pass. Architect Thomas Leach has 31,414: Black marble first Asian property. Set on a 128-acre estate,
riffed on the silhouette of Maison Noir, chips inlaid in the floor the resort’s 45 bright and breezy suites
itself inspired by a traditional South African slabs at Nobu Bar are the work of Kerry Hill Architects.
kraal, or settlement, and designed by Paolo Fans of Aman resorts – with whom the
Deliperi. Curves and circles are dotted Singapore-based studio is a long-time
throughout in a nod to nature, and these collaborator – will recognise, amid the
forms are echoed by Southern Guild gallery swathes of stone, linear perspectives and
and Future Found Design Agency in the dense landscaping, a familiar layout of
interior, with curvaceous furniture and cascading terraces and pools. The centrepiece
artwork. Available to rent as a whole house, is a vast network of lawn and boxed gardens
Villa Verte has a 12.5m heated saltwater 46: Fretwork panels that leads, temple-like, past a 50m infinity
pool, as well as a herb garden and a Rolodex in the lobby pool and down to the 1.5km stretch of private
of organic suppliers – though if that sounds beach and the South China Sea beyond.
like too much effort for a holiday, a private Special plaudits for the capacious Chenot-
chef can always be called in. Daven Wu managed spa, and the manicure and
7 Farriers Way, Hout Bay, tel: 27.21 790 0085, pedicure salon run by the ever-fabulous
maisonnoir.co.za. Sleeps eight in four en-suite Bastien Gonzalez. DW
bedrooms. Rates: from R14,320 ($910) oneandonlyresorts.com. Rates: from $835

164 ∑ ILLUSTRATOR: EOIN RYAN

Celebrate 80 years of iconic design, from pioneering Avio
modernist vision to bold contemporary designs for home Sofa System Collection,
Piero Lissoni, 2016
and office. Always timeless. Always true.
Photo: Gionata Xerra
www.knolleurope.com

Knoll Showroom – 91 Goswell Road, London, EC1V 7EX – T 020 7236 6655 / Aram Store – 110 Drury Lane, London, WC2B 5SG – T 020 7557 7557 / Cimmermann
10 Regent Parade, Harrogate, HG1 5AW – T 01423 524777 / Chaplins – 477-507 Uxbridge Road, Hatch End, Pinner, HA5 4JS – T 020 8421 1779 / Conran Fulham – Michelin House
81 Fulham Road, London, SW3 6RD – T 020 7589 7401 / Conran Marylebone – 55 Marylebone High Street, London, W1U 5HS – T 020 7723 2223 / Couch Potato Company
280 Waterloo Road, London, SE1 8RQ – T 020 3325 1779 / Existenzminima – 58 George Street, Birmingham, B3 1QA – T 0121 212 0387 / Ferrious – 47-49 Stamford New Road
Altrincham, Cheshire, WA14 1DS – T 161 228 6880 / Gotham – 17 Chepstow Corner, 1 Pembridge Villas, Notting Hill, London, W2 4XE – T 020 7243 0011 / Heal’s – 196 Tottenham
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Thames, KT1 1BW – T 020 8614 5900 / Innes – 11-13 The Square, Hessle, East Yorks, HU13 0AF – T 01482 649271 / Lost Weekend – 2 St Helens Court, Lower Georges Street
Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland – T 00353 01 2140711 / Minima – The Waterfront, Hanover Quay, Grand Canal Dock, Dublin, Dublin 2, Ireland – T 00353 01 633 7716
Moleta Munro – 43-46 London Street, Edinburgh, EH3 6LX – T 0131 557 4800 / Nest – 9 Parkway Rise, Sheffield, S9 4WQ – T 114 280 0930 / NW3 Interiors – 10 Lyndhurst
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Clerkenwell, London, EC1R 1XN – T 020 7837 1900 / Twentytwentyone – 274-275 Upper St, London, N1 2UA – T 020 7288 1996
Subscribers SinceÉ 1996

VINCENZO DE COTIIS
ARCHITECT, DESIGNER AND MASTER OF THE JUXTAPOSE
Wallpaper* subscriber since 1996

Featuring his own ‘DC312’ cabinet, ‘DC1514’ shelving unit – just the job for a Wallpaper* collection – and ‘DC1823’ side table, De Cotiis’
apartment, in an 18th-century Milanese palazzo, is a stripped-back lesson in brutalist elegance, photographed by Allegra Martin
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∑ 167
Armadillo Indoor. MUT Design —— Photographer: Meritxell Arjalaguer ©
www.expormim.com
 MAY IS ALL ABOUT...
Art, architecture & escape
p170
HIGH HOPES
Interior design reaches for the sky
p182
FREEZE FRAME
Geometric antics and gentlemanly attire
p198
ARTIST’S PALATE
Jeppe Hein’s ‘Breathe with Me’ buffet
∑ 169
‘Move’ rocking chair,
£16,656, by Rossella
Pugliatti, for Giorgetti
Space
 Higher calling
For uplifting interior inspiration, we’ve got our head in the clouds
Photography Ryan Hopkinson Interiors Matthew Morris
 From left, armchair,
£1,788, by Joe Colombo,
for Kartell. ‘Stool One’
stool, £442, by Konstantin
Grcic, for Magis, from
Aram. ‘Many Worlds’ sofa,
price on request, by
Toni Grilo, for Riluc. ‘Pion’
dining table, €2,644, by
172 ∑ Ionna Vautrin, for Sancal
Space
Space This page, ‘Broken
Mirror’ mirror, €5,777,
by Snarkitecture,
for Gufram
Opposite, ‘MT3’
rocking chair,
€848, by Ron Arad,
for Driade
∑ 175
176 ∑
 Space
This page, ‘Go’ chair,
€1,667, by Ross Lovegrove,
for Bernhardt Design
Opposite, from left,
‘Capitol Complex’
office chair, from £1,150,
by Pierre Jeanneret,
for Cassina. ‘Servomuto’
chair/table, £221, by
Luigi Lanzi, for Flou,
from Aram
Space
From left, ‘Swing’ sofa,
€9,395, by Toni Grilo,
for Riluc. ‘Deep-sea’ low
table, £1,828, by Nendo,
for Glas Italia. ‘Ester’ chair,
price on request,
by Jacopo Foggini, for
Edra. ‘Biophilia’ chair,
£275, by Ross Lovegrove,
for Vondom

∑ 179
This page, from left, ‘Cloud 5’ Space
rug; ‘Cloud 7’ rug, €15,645
each, both by Jan Kath
Opposite, ‘Pyrenees’
sofa, £28,000, by
Fredrikson Stallard,
for David Gill Gallery
For stockists, see page 196
Set build: Motley Makers
Special thanks: Hilltop Farm

∑ 181
Fashion

PERFECT
Sinewy lines and strong shapes define this season’s tailored looks
Photography Alex Colley Fashion Jason Hughes
 FORM

Coat, £1,300; trousers, £745, both by Dolce & Gabbana. Shoes, €365,
by Dries Van Noten. ‘Swirl’ bookends, £225 for set of two, by Tom Dixon

∑ 183
 Fashion

This page, Sebas wears jacket, £3,300 for suit; Augusts wears jacket, £2,350 for suit,
both by Dior. ‘Aura’ wall mirrors, €53 each, by Bjørn van den Berg, for New Works.
Opposite, jacket, price on request, by Alexander McQueen

184 ∑
 This page, jacket, £1,900; coat, £2,040, both by Prada.
Opposite, jacket, £1,950; trousers, £650, both by Celine by Hedi Slimane. Shoes,
£430, by Jil Sander. ‘Siena’ console with marble top, £3,170, by Tom Faulkner

186 ∑
Fashion
Fashion
 This page, jacket, £1,050; hat, price on request, both by Marni.
‘Ruban’ mirrors, from £13, by Inga Sempé, for Hay.
Opposite, jacket, £1,050; trousers, £320, both by Emporio Armani. Shoes, £430,
by Jil Sander. ‘9.5’ chair, €810, by Rasmus B Fex, for Frama

∑ 189
Fashion

This page, Augusts wears jacket, £2,020, by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.
Sebas wears jacket, £2,600, by Berluti. ‘Shadow Game’ table in black, price on request, by Holly Hunt.
Opposite, jacket, £2,210; waistcoat, £780; trousers, £750,
all by Gucci. Shoes, €365, by Dries Van Noten
∑ 191
Fashion
 This page, jacket, £1,590, by Burberry.
Opposite, Sebas wears coat, £1,550; trousers, £490, both by Valentino. Shoes, €365, by Dries Van Noten.
Augusts wears suit, £1,450, by Canali. Shoes, £430, by Jil Sander. Minimalist wire frame sculptures,
£400 each, from Béton Brut. ‘Thin Black Table’, £1,150, by Nendo, for Cappellini

∑ 193
 This page, left, jacket, £1,660, by Bottega Veneta. Right, coat, £1,550; jacket, £1,250; vest, £140; trousers, £605;
shoes, £430, all by Jil Sander. ‘Back To School’ rug, part of the Metroquadro collection, £1,425, by CC-Tapis.
Opposite, jacket, £2,250; trousers, £650, both by Louis Vuitton. Shoes, €365,
by Dries Van Noten. ‘Ballot’ chair, £504, by Barber Osgerby, for Isokon Plus
For stockists, see page 196
Models: Sebas Jansen at Models 1, Augusts at Wilhelmina London. Casting: David Steven Wilton at East.
Grooming: Chris Sweeney at One Represents using Sisley Skincare and Oribe. Interiors: Jacqui Scalamera.
Set design: Tara Holmes at Sarah Laird & Good Company. Photography assistant/digi tech: Josh Payne.
Fashion assistants: Aylin Bayhan, Anastasia Xirouchakis. Interiors assistant: Melissanthe Panagiotopoulou

194 ∑
Fashion
Stockists

I
2 Moncler 1952 Bjørg Chanel Dries Van Noten
Tel: 44.20 7235 0857 (UK) Tel: 45.22 45 33 14 (Denmark) chanel.com driesvannoten.com
moncler.com bjorgjewellery.com
Chaumet Driade
Boss chaumet.com Tel: 39.02 799 957 (Italy) Ines

A
hugoboss.com driade.com Tel: 31.203 30 54 77
Chopard (Netherlands)
Bottega Veneta Tel: 44.20 7046 7808 (UK) Dunhill inesgloves.com
Tel: 44.20 7838 9394 (UK) chopard.com Tel: 44.20 3425 7313 (UK)
Acne Studios bottegaveneta.com dunhill.com Isokon Plus
Cindy Chao The Art Jewel Tel: 44.20 7407 9907 (UK)
acnestudios.com Bulgari cindychao.com

E
isokonplus.com
Agmes Tel: 44.20 7872 9969 (UK)
Clyde

J
agmesnyc.com bulgari.com
Tel: 1.917 214 9484 (US)
Alexander McQueen Bunney clyde.world
Tel: 44.20 7355 0088 (UK) bunney.co.uk Edra
Comme des Garçons
alexandermcqueen.com Burberry Tel: 39.0587 616660 (Italy)
Homme Plus at
Tel: 44.20 7806 8904 (UK) edra.com Jaeger-LeCoultre
Alighieri Dover Street Market
Tel: 44.20 8065 0301 (UK) burberry.com Tel: 44.20 7518 0680 (UK) Emporio Armani Tel: 44.20 3402 1960 (UK)
alighieri.co.uk doverstreetmarket.com Tel: 44.20 7491 8080 (UK) jaeger-lecoultre.com

C
armani.com Jan Kath
Alivar

D
Tel: 39.055 807 0115 (Italy) Tel: 49.234 941 2344

F
alivar.com (Germany)
jan-kath.de
Aram Canali
Tel: 44.20 7557 7557 (UK) Tel: 44.20 7290 3500 (UK) Dale Rogers Jessica McCormack
aram.co.uk canali.com Tel: 44.20 7881 0592 (UK) Farrow & Ball Tel: 44.20 7491 9999 (UK)
dalerogersammonite.com Tel: 44.1202 876141 (UK) jessicamccormack.com
Ara Vartanian Cappellini
Tel: 44.20 8150 8764 (UK) farrow-ball.com Jil Sander
Tel: 44.20 7493 4751 (UK) David Gill Gallery
aravartanian.com cappellini.com Tel: 44.20 3195 6600 (UK) Frama Tel: 39.055 237 201 (Italy)
davidgillgallery.com Tel: 45.31 40 60 30 (Denmark) jilsander.com
Cartier

B
framacph.com

K
Tel: 44.20 7408 9192 (UK) David Morris
cartier.com Tel: 44.20 7499 2200 (UK) Frame Chain
Casablanca davidmorris.com framechain.co.uk
Berluti casablancaparis.com Dents

G
Tel: 44.20 7437 1740 (UK) dentsgloves.com Kartell
Cassina Tel: 44.20 7584 3923 (UK)
berluti.com Tel: 44.20 7584 0000 (UK) Dior kartell.com
Bernhardt Design cassina.com Tel: 44.20 7172 0172 (UK)

L
Tel: 1.828 759 6641 (US) dior.com Georg Jensen
CC Tapis
bernhardtdesign.com Tel: 45.50 75 13 90 (Denmark)
Tel: 39.02 890 938 84 (Italy) Dolce & Gabbana
georgjensen.com
Béton Brut cc-tapis.com Tel: 44.20 7659 9000 (UK)
Tel: 44.20 7018 1890 (UK) dolcegabbana.com Giorgetti
Celine by Hedi Slimane Le Gramme
betonbrut.co.uk Tel: 39.03 627 5275 (Italy)
Tel: 44.20 7491 8200 (UK) legramme.com
giorgetti.eu
celine.com
Glas Italia Louis Vuitton
Tel: 39.039 2323202 (Italy) Tel: 44.20 7998 6286 (UK)
glasitalia.com louisvuitton.com

NEXT MONTH

M
Gucci
Tel: 44.20 7235 6707 (UK)

TRANSPORT
gucci.com
Gufram
Tel: 39.0173 56102 (Italy) Maison Margiela
gufram.it Tel: 33.1 45 49 06 68 (France)

& INNOVATION H
maisonmargiela.com
Maison Michel
Tel: 33.1 45 08 94 62 (France)
michel-paris.com.fr
Hay Margaret Howell
Electric aviation takes off, Margaret Calvert redraws her Tel: 45.4282 0282 (Denmark) Tel: 44.20 7591 2250 (UK)
classic British railway signage, and Mexican architects Morari hay.dk margarethowell.co.uk
design the consummate car collector’s home in Morelia. Hermès Marni
We also explore extreme architecture in Antarctica, test-run Tel: 44.20 499 8856 (UK) Tel: 44.20 7491 9966 (UK)
hermes.com marni.com
Allbirds’ planet-friendlier take on performance footwear,
and pick out perfectly poised outdoor furniture Hermina Athens Mikimoto
Tel: 30.210 982 8340 (Greece) Tel: 44.20 7399 9860 (UK)
herminaathens.com mikimoto.co.uk
Creative energy soars in Quito as a new generation
reimagines the Ecuadorian capital’s future Holly Hunt
Tel: 1.310 659 3776 (US)
hollyhunt.com
ON SALE 14 MAY
 Jacket, £1,580, by
Maison Margiela.
See page 182

SCP
Tel: 44.20 7739 1869 (UK)
scp.co.uk
Siegelson
Tel: 1.212 832 2666 (US)
siegelson.com
Sophie Bille Brahe
sophiebillebrahe.com
Sunspel
at MatchesFashion
matchesfashion.com

T
Tasaki
Tel: 44.20 3967 3730 (UK)
tasaki.co.uk
The Conran Shop
Tel: 44.20 7723 2223 (UK)
conranshop.co.uk
Theo Fennell
Tel: 44.20 7591 5000 (UK)
theofennell.com
Tom Dixon
Tel: 44.330 363 0030 (UK)
tomdixon.net
Tom Faulkner
Tel: 44.20 7351 7272 (UK)
tomfaulkner.co.uk

V
N
New Works
Ports 1961
Tel: 33.1 47 03 35 41 (France)
ports1961.com
Prada
R
Raf Simons
Rosa de la Cruz
Tel: 44.7493 689990 (UK)
rosadelacruz.co.uk
Vacheron Constantin
Tel: 44.20 7578 9500 (UK)
vacheron-constantin.com

S
Tel: 45.7230 9999 (Denmark) Tel: 44.20 7235 0008 (UK) at Dover Street Market
Valentino
newworks.dk prada.com Tel: 44.20 7518 0680 (UK)
Tel: 44.20 7647 2520 (UK)
doverstreetmarket.com
valentino.com

P O
Richard Mille Saint Laurent by Van Cleef & Arpels
Tel: 44.20 7123 4155 (UK) Anthony Vaccarello Tel: 44.20 7493 0400 (UK)
richardmille.com Tel: 44.20 7235 6706 (UK) vancleefarpels.com
Patcharavipa Riluc ysl.com
Osoi Vondom
patcharavipa.com at MatchesFashion riluc.com Sancal Tel: 34.96 239 8486 (Spain)
Patek Philippe matchesfashion.com Rokh at Net-A-Porter Tel: 34.968 719 062 (Spain) vondom.com
Tel: 44.20 7493 8866 (UK) Tel: 44.800 044 5700 (UK) sancal.com

Z
patek.com net-a-porter.com Saskia Diez
Paul Smith Roland Mouret at Tel: 49.892 284 5367
Tel: 44.20 7493 4565 (UK) MatchesFashion (Germany)
paulsmith.com matchesfashion.com saskia-diez.com
Zieta Studio
Tel: 48.663 101 111 (Poland)
zieta.pl

∑ 197
 Artist’s Palate

#112
JEPPE HEIN’S
‘Breathe with Me’
A personal breakdown about ten years ago led
Jeppe Hein to take up conscious breathing. What
began as an exercise for balancing body and
mind has since become an art form, firstly in his
Breathing Watercolours series, where the Danish
artist represents his breaths as vertical strokes
of ultramarine blue paint on a white surface; and
now in the ‘Breathe with Me’ movement, which
invites people to join in the action and create a
collaborative artwork, reminding participants ‘to
cooperate if we want to share this world together,
today and in the future’. Hein has now given his
project a culinary expression for Wallpaper*. His
spiced dal, rice, chapati, vegetable raita, mango
chutney and mango lassi are meant to be shared
between ten people. Says the artist, ‘The dishes
bring everyone to the same table, giving us the
opportunity for communication and making us
aware of what unites us.’ breathewithme.world;
For Hein’s recipe, visit Wallpaper.com ∏

‘Cobra’ candleholder,
£58, by Constantin
Wortmann, for Georg
Jensen. ‘Brew’ tray,
£200, by Tom Dixon.
‘Oriental’ bowls, £8
each; ‘Tinklet’ bowls,
£2.50 each, all by
Van Verre, from SCP.
‘Babylone’ tumbler,
£14, from The
Conran Shop. ‘Closet
Stripe’ wallpaper,
£67 per 10m roll,
by Farrow & Ball
For stockists,
see page 196

198 ∑ PHOTOGRAPHY: BAKER & EVANS INTERIORS: JACQUI SCALAMERA ENTERTAINING DIRECTOR: MELINA KEAYS WRITER: TF CHAN
 HAUTE NATURE
¨

© 2020 Antolini Luigi & C. S.p.a. - All Rights reserved.

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Designed by nature, perfected in Italy.
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