© Lonely Planet

365

Sumatra

Few isles tempt the imagination with the lure of adventure quite like the fierce land of Su­
matra. The planet’s sixth-largest island is vibrating with life – too often to the detriment of its
disaster-hardened inhabitants, who live in the shadow of Sumatran Mother Nature: a mixed
blessing of vast extremes.

Eruptions, earthquakes, floods and tsunamis are regular headline grabbers, and are steep costs
of living in one of the world’s richest ecosystems. Steaming volcanoes brew and bluster while
standing guard over lakes that sleepily lap the edges of craters. The resulting soil makes for an
ocean of green topography that dominates every vista, filling the land with a feast of flora and
fauna. Orangutan-filled jungles host not only our red-haired cousins, but all sorts of monkeys
that swing in the tree tops. A lucky few may spot tigers or even the timid Sumatran rhino.

Then there are the beaches. The tempestuous, tectonic coastline creates a constant un­
ravelling of clear barrels of surf onto deserted beaches across Sumatra, making the area one
of the great isolated surf meccas of the world.

SUMATRA
Consistent with Indonesia’s social make-up, the massive island is a spicy broth of mixed
cultures, from the devout Muslims in Aceh to the hedonistic Batak Christians and the mat­
rilineal Minangkabau of Padang. All get along (most of the time) and are unified by a fear,
respect and love of the wild and wondrous land of Sumatra.

HIGHLIGHTS

 Lounging away a few days on the cool

Pulau Weh
shores of Danau Toba (p388) and sharing a
few drinks with the fun-loving Batak folk
 Ogling our orangutan cousins in the wild Bukit Lawang
Berastagi
jungles of Bukit Lawang (p378) Danau Toba

 Hiking up beyond the clouds to the steam­

ing peaks of the volcanoes around the hill
town of Berastagi (p384)
Bukittinggi
 Swimming with sharks and turtles in the
coral garden off Pulau Weh (p409), an
underwater paradise
 Cruising around the lush paddy fields in the
verdant countryside around Bukittinggi
(p431), where the matrilineal Minangkabau
built soaring-roofed houses and the women
told the men what to do

 POPULATION: 40 MILLION  LAND AREA: 473,606 SQ KM  HIGHEST PEAK: GUNUNG

KERINCI (3805M)
 366 S U MAT R A lonelyplanet.com

SUMATRA

THAILAND
Pulau Weh Marine ANDAMAN
National Park SEA
Pulau Weh
Pulau

��
Breueh Krueng Raya
Banda Aceh
Lhok Nga Sigli Pulau
Lampu'uk Lhokseumawe Penang
Bireuen
Gayo
Highlands
Calang
ACEH Takengon Ipoh
Langsa
Gunung
Meulaboh Leuser Blangkejeren
(3404m) Lumut
Gurah Bukit
Ketambe Lawang Gunung
Belawan Sinabung MALAYSIA
Kutacane Medan
Su

(2450m)
ng

Berastagi Tebingtinggi
ai Alas

Tapaktuan
Gunung Leuser Gunung Karo Highlands
National Park Sibayak Pematangsiantar KUALA LUMPUR
(2094m) Tanjung Balai Pelabuhan (Port) Klang
Sidikalang
Pulau Sinabang Parapat St
Danau ra
Simeulue it o
Toba fM
Banyak Singkil NORTH ela
Islands SUMATRA Rantauparapat Pulau a
k Melaka
Sibolga Rupat
Tran

Dumai Pulau Pulau

Bengkalis Rangsang
s– S

Gunung Sitoli Tanjung SINGAPORE

Pulau
u

Buton
ma

Kalimun
SUMATRA

Pulau Selat Panjang Tanjung Pulau

tran

Nias ai Batam
Samak Tanjung
Hw Sung Siak Sri
y Siak Balai
Teluk Dalam Indrapura
Equator Pekanbaru Pulau Pulau
Harau Pulau Mendol Rempang
Bonjol Valley Sungaipagar Tebingtinggi Pulau Pulau
Kundur Bakung
Danau
Maninjau Bukittinggi Minangkabau RIAU Pulau Penuba
Villages Bukit Tigapuluh
Padangpanjang Batu Sangkar Sungai Buluh
Danau National Park
Pulau Singkep
Sikabaluan Singkarak Solok
u n gai
Pulau Padang
S

Batang JAMBI
Siberut WEST Muara
H

SUMATRA Jambi
ar
i

Muara Siberut Muarabungo

Gunung Kerinci Jambi
Tua Pejat Kerinci Valley
(3805m) Bukit Duabelas
Pulau Bangko National Park
MENTAWAI Sipora Sioban Sungai Penuh
ISLANDS TNKS-Kerinci Seblat National Park
P
eg

Pulau Mukomuko
Sikakap
un

Pagai ai M
Sung

Utara usi
u

Ipuh
n
g

Pulau BENGKULU Lubuklinggau

a
n

Pagai
INDIAN Selatan Perabumulih
Lais Curup
OCEAN
Bengkulu Lahat
B
u

Pagaralam Pasemah
k

Highlands
it

Manna B Baturaja
a
Danau r i s
Bintuhan Ranau an
Bukit Barisan Selatan Simpang
National Park Krui Sinder
Pulau
Enggano
lonelyplanet.com S U MAT R A • • H i s t o r y 367

0
0
200 km
120 miles
History
Pre-Islamic history is often more myth than
fact, but archaeological evidence suggests that
Sumatra was the gateway for migrating tribes
from mainland Southeast Asia. Stone tools
and shells unearthed north of Medan indicate
SOUTH
CHINA
that hunter-gatherers were living along the
SEA Strait of Melaka (Selat Malaka) 13,000 years
ago. Two megalithic cultures appeared around
2000 years ago, one in the mountains of west­
ern Sumatra and the other on Pulau Nias.
The Strait of Melaka, an important trade
Pulau route between China and India, exposed the
Laut
east coast of Sumatra to the region’s superpow­
ers and cultural influences, such as Islam. The
kingdom of Sriwijaya emerged as a local player
Pulau
Matak Pulau
at the end of the 7th century, with its capital
Natuna
Besar presumably based near the modern city of
Pulau
Terempa Palembang. After Sriwijaya’s influence waned,
Pulau Pulau
Pulau
Jemaja Midai Subi Aceh, at the northern tip of Sumatra, assumed
ANAMBAS Pulau
Serasan
control of trade through the strait. Aceh is
ISLANDS
presumably where Muslim sea traders first
introduced Islam to Indonesia from Gujarat
NATUNA
SEA (western India). In the spirit of diplomacy
Pulau Bintan Pulau Mendarik and trade, the animist Acehnese adopted the

SUMATRA
Tanjung Pinang Pulau Dumdum

Kijang TAMBELAN faith of their visitors and continue to practise a

Pulau Galang ISLANDS more devout form of Islam than that found in
Pulau Mesanak
Pulau Sebangka
neighbouring provinces. Aceh’s control of the
Daik Equator shipping route increased after its main rival,
Pulau Lingga
LINGGA
Pulau
Pejantan
Melaka, fell to the Portuguese in 1511. The era
Dabo
ISLANDS of Aceh’s sultanate prevailed until the begin­
Tujuh Islands
KALIMANTAN ning of the 17th century, when Dutch traders
Selat Berhala claimed a piece of the spice trade.
The most influential port of the day,
Belinyu
Samudra (Ocean), near Lhokseumawe, even­
Mentok Sungailiat
Pangkal Pinang
tually became the name that the traders used to
refer to the entire island, alternatively known as
Pulau Lesser Java. It was Marco Polo who corrupted
Bangka
Tanjung Pandan the name to ‘Sumatra’ in his 1292 report on
Palembang
Kayuagung
Pulau
Belitung the area. In more poetic times, the island was
SOUTH known as Swarnadwipa (Island of Gold).
SUMATRA
Throughout the colonial era, Sumatra
saw many foreign powers stake a claim in
LAMPUNG
its resources: the Dutch based themselves
Kotabumi in the West Sumatran port of Padang, the
Metro Way Kanan British ruled in Bencoolen (now Bengkulu),
Jepara
Way Kambas
National Park American traders monopolised pepper ex­
Kota Agung
Bandarlampung Pulau
Seribu
ports from Aceh, and the Chinese exploited
Kalianda Bakauheni tin reserves on the islands of Bangka and
Gunung
Krakatau
Str
ait Merak JAVA Belitung, east of Palembang. Oil and coffee
a
Su
nd
JAKARTA were other prized Sumatran exports.
In the early 19th century, the Dutch at­
WEST
JAVA
tempted to assert military control over all of
Sumatra, a move met with resistance by its
disparate tribes. In 1863, after three military
 368 S U MAT R A • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com

expeditions, the Dutch finally established au­ was centred near the island of Nias; it de­
thority over Pulau Nias. Treaties and alliances stroyed the capital city and killed hundreds of
brought other areas of Sumatra under Dutch people. Most of the destruction has since been
rule, including Bengkulu, which the British cleared and the area is moving on, but aid
willingly traded for Melaka. workers have become familiar faces in both
A peace may have been brokered, but the Aceh and Nias and will remain in the most
Dutch were never welcomed in Sumatra. The severely affected regions for some time.
island contributed several key figures to the
independence struggle, including future vice Getting There & Away
president, Mohammed Hatta and the first Once upon a time along the backpacker trail,
prime minister, Sutan Syahrir. Yet despite this travellers sailed the high seas to reach the
Sumatra was as dissatisfied with Jakarta’s rule island of Sumatra, touching down in one of
as it was with that of the Dutch. From 1958– the international ports: Batam, Belawan (near
61, rebel groups based in Bukittinggi and the Medan), Pekanbaru or Dumai. But the era of
mountains of South Sumatra resisted centrali­ budget airlines has made the friendly skies a
sation, leading to clashes with the Indonesian faster and more affordable option for inter­
military. Fiercely independent Aceh, though, national arrivals. As fuel prices and fares for
proved to be Jakarta’s most troublesome region. land and sea travel soar, airfares consistently
Aceh’s separatist movement started in the late take a nose dive.
1970s and continued until 2006 (see p403), Keep in mind that Sumatra is one hour
with brief spells of quiet counterbalanced with behind Singapore time.
repression by the Indonesian military.
No human conflict could compare to the AIR
destruction of the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami, Medan is Sumatra’s primary international
in which a 9.0-plus-magnitude earthquake off airport, with frequent flights to mainland
SUMATRA

the northwestern coast of Sumatra triggered Southeast Asian cities such as Singapore,
a regionwide tsunami. In Aceh province, the Kuala Lumpur and Penang. In West Sumatra,
land mass closest to the epicentre, waves al­ Padang receives flights from Singapore and
most 15m high rose up like the mythical naga Kuala Lumpur several times a week. In eastern
(sea serpent) and swallowed coastal devel­ Sumatra, Palembang is linked to Singapore
opment and dwellers. The Indonesian death and Kuala Lumpur. The primary international
count was estimated at more than 170,000 carriers include Garuda Indonesia, Malaysian
people, mainly in Aceh. An 8.7-magnitude Airlines, Lion Air, Tiger Airways, Air Asia,
aftershock that followed several months later Firefly and Silk Air.

SUMATRA AU NATUREL
Sumatra’s natural endowments are superlative: it stretches nearly 2000km, from Banda Aceh
in the north to Bakauheni in the south, is nearly bisected by the equator and covers an area
of 473,606 sq km, almost the size of France. The island’s backbone is the Bukit Barisan range,
which runs most of the length of the west coast, merging with the highlands around Danau Toba
and central Aceh. Forming the most dramatic peaks is an almost martial formation of almost
100 volcanoes, 15 of which are still active; the tallest is Gunung Kerinci, measuring 3805m. The
string of islands off the west coast, including Nias and the Mentawai Islands, are geologically
older than the rest of Sumatra.
The coastal lowlands on the east coast are swampy and drained by wide muddy rivers, such
as Batang Hari, Siak and Musi, which empty into the shallow Strait of Melaka.
In its remaining forests, Sumatra boasts some of Indonesia’s most interesting biodiversity.
Flowers and primates top the naturalist’s list. The Rafflesia arnoldii, the world’s largest flower, and
the Amorphophallus titanium (also known as the Titan Arum), the world’s tallest flower, can be
found in pockets of the Bukit Barisan jungle. The island is also home to endangered species such
as the two-horned Sumatran rhino, the honey bear, the Sumatran elephant and the Sumatran
tiger. But scientists from all over the world come to northern Sumatra’s Gunung Leuser National
Park, where more than 5000 orangutans are believed to still live in the wild.
lonelyplanet.com S U MAT R A • • H i s t o r y 369

Singaporean weekenders heading to beaches

VISA ON ARRIVAL and resorts in the Riau islands use these water
Regulations for visiting Indonesia are in flux. routes.
At the time of research, most nationalities From Batam, boats serve the following
could obtain a visa on arrival at the follow­ mainland Sumatran ports: Dumai, Palembang
ing international entry points, but check and Pekanbaru. Only a few backpackers depart
with an Indonesian consulate for the cur­ Batam for Sumatra because all of these ports
rent situation. but Dumai are a long way from postcard-
worthy spots. See Pulau Batam (p454) or
 Pulau Batam: airport and the ports of
Pulau Bintan (p459) for more information
Nongsa, Sekupang, Waterfront City
on boat transfer between Singapore and
(Teluk Senimba) and Batam Centre
beyond.
(p454).
Ferries swim across the narrow Sunda
 Pulau Bintan: ports of Tanjung Pinang, Strait, linking the southeastern tip of Sumatra
Bandar Bentan Telani Lagoi and Bandar at Bakauheni to Java’s westernmost point of
Sri Udana Lobam in Tanjung Uban Merak. The sea crossing is a brief dip in a day-
(p458). long voyage that requires several hours’ worth
 Medan: Polonia airport and Belawan of bus transport from both ports to Jakarta on
port (p376). the Java side and to Bandarlampung on the
Sumatran side. See p472 for more details.
 Pekanbaru: airport and port (p450).
Pelni-operated boats still paddle between
 Padang: airport and Teluk Bayur port Indonesia’s islands, carrying freight and
(p424). families.
 Dumai: Yos Sudarso port (p451). Check with local ticket agents for schedules
and prices as both are subject to change.

SUMATRA
 Sibolga: port (p394).
 Palembang: airport (p466).
Getting Around
Most travellers travel by bus around Northern
You can also hop on a plane from Jakarta Sumatra and then hop on a plane to Java,
to every major Sumatran city aboard Garuda, largely avoiding Sumatra’s highway system.
Merpati, Jatayu, Mandala or Sriwijaya. Flights Most of the island is mountainous jungle and
from Sumatra to other parts of Indonesia typi­ the poorly maintained roads form a twisted
cally connect through Jakarta. One notable pile of spaghetti on the undulating landscape.
exception is Merpati’s flight between Medan Don’t count on getting anywhere very quickly
and Pontianak (Kalimantan). on Sumatra.
All Sumatran airports charge a departure Sumatra’s airports are incongruously mod­
tax of 75,000Rp to 150,000Rp for international ern and numerous, providing a quick and
flights. cheap means of arrival or escape.

BOAT AIR
Many travellers still heed the call of the sea An hour on a plane is an attractive alterna­
and enter Sumatra by ferry from Malaysia. tive to what may seem like an eternity on a
There are two primary port options: Melaka bone-shaking bus. For long-distance travel,
(Malaysia) to Dumai (Indonesia) or Penang airfares are competitive with bus and ferry
(Malaysia) to Belawan (Indonesia). If you fares. Medan to Banda Aceh and Medan to
don’t have a lot of time to explore Sumatra, Gunung Sitoli are two popular air hops.
Belawan is your best option, as it is a short Domestic carriers include Merpati, Mandala,
bus ride from Medan (see p377), which sits at Lion Air and Sriwijaya. Nusantara Buana Air
the centre of most tourist attractions. Dumai (NBA) and Susi Air fly to minor destinations
is on Sumatra’s east coast and is a five-hour that the bigger airlines don’t bother with.
bus ride to Bukittinggi; see p451 for more All Sumatran airports charge an airport de­
information. parture tax (between 20,000Rp and 40,000Rp)
From Singapore, ferries make the quick that is not included in your ticket. Ticket
hop to Pulau Batam and Bintan, the pri­ agents are located in the smallest of towns
mary islands in the Riau archipelago. Mainly and typically charge 10% commission.
 370 N O R T H S U MAT R A lonelyplanet.com

As cheap and convenient taking domes­ buses, while other towns rely on bus company
tic flights may be, it’s also important to take offices located outside the terminals. Ticket
into account the environmental impact of prices vary greatly depending on the quality
air travel (see the boxed text, p844 for more of the bus and the perceived gullibility of the
information) traveller. It pays to shop around and to ask at
your guest house about reliable companies;
BOAT do be aware that some accommodation act
Most boat travel within Sumatra connects the as booking agents and charge a commission
main island with the many satellite islands for their services.
lining the coast.
The most commonly used routes link LOCAL TRANSPORT
Banda Aceh with Pulau Weh, Sibolga with The usual Indonesian forms of transport –
Pulau Nias, and Padang with Pulau Siberut bemo or opelet (small minibus), becak (bicy­
(in the Mentawai Islands chain). In the less- cle-rickshaw) and bendi (two-person horse-
visited areas of southeastern Sumatra, Jambi, drawn cart) – are available in Sumatran towns
Palembang and Pekanbaru are important and cities. The base rate for a bemo or opelet
towns for river transport. The Riau islands is 1500Rp to 4000Rp; the minimum fare is
of Batam and Bintan are also linked to south­ 7000Rp for becak and 10,000Rp for bendi.
eastern port towns by ferry. Establish a price for a becak ride before
Most long-distance ferries have several climbing aboard. For an opelet, you pay after
classes, ranging from filthy and crowded to you disembark.
filthy and less crowded. An upgrade in class
might be a necessary luxury. MINIBUS
For midrange and shorter journeys, many
BUS locals and travellers prefer to use minibus
SUMATRA

Bus is the most common mode of transport services, which can be more convenient than
around Sumatra, and in many cases it’s the hustling out to the bus terminal. Some mini­
only option for intercity travel. But it is far buses are in superb shape and provide door-
from efficient or comfortable. The primary to-door service, while others are a little rickety
thoroughfare is the Trans-Sumatran Hwy, and shovel in more people than a clown car.
which is little more than a jungle-bound track Typically, tourists will end up paying more
for petrol-eating beasts. Locals prefer the more than the locals; negotiating a front seat en­
affectionate term: ‘chicken roads’. The pave­ sures a little breathing room as the driver
ment inexplicably disappears, oncoming vehi­ won’t crowd his steering range.
cles must yield to one another, and the potholes
are as big as moon craters. It is not uncommon TRAIN
during the rainy season for bridges to wash out The only useful train service in Sumatra runs
and for mudslides to block the road. from Bandarlampung (p472) to Palembang, and
Most trips take extra long because of road then on to Lubuklinggau. There are also pas­
conditions. At this laborious pace you have senger trains from Medan to Pematangsiantar,
plenty of time to soak up the views: cascades Tanjung Balai and Rantauparapat – though
of deep, lush greens; terraced rice fields; mot­ these are rarely used by tourists.
tled rushing rivers; and isolated villages gath­
ered around the communal well.
Buses range from economy sardine cans
to modern air-con coaches. At the top of the
NORTH SUMATRA
class structure are super-executive buses with For most visitors travelling through Indonesia
reclining seats, deep-freeze air-con, toilets, on a race-against-time visa, this is the sole
and an all-night serenade of Scorpions al­ slice of Sumatra they’ll taste. And with good
bums. Many passengers come prepared with reason: ogle the orangutans in Bukit Lawang,
winter hats, gloves and earplugs. veer over the volcanoes of Berastagi and laze
Bus terminals in Sumatra can vary, from away on the shores of Danau Toba. All in,
modern and organised to run-down and aban­ a well-trodden and worthy circuit that cen­
doned. In some towns, you can go straight tres on Medan, the gateway metropolis of the
to the bus terminal to buy tickets and board north.
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H S U MAT R A • • M e d a n 371

SUMATRA IS BURNING
Every year smoke and haze from fires used to clear farmland and plantations choke the skies
over the island and its neighbours, sometimes downing planes and closing schools as far away
as Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia complains bitterly about its inconsiderate neighbour and promises
are made by Indonesian officials that next year won’t be as bad – until next year comes. As for
Sumatra, fires are part of the family. In the evening, backyard burn piles are most communities’
solution to a lack of municipal garbage collection. Minifires follow people throughout the day
as most Sumatrans, men and women, are chain smokers. These clove-smoking dragons are so
comfortable with a cigarette that it often looks like an extra digit. Cigarettes are so much more
than a habit or a hobby: they are a social lubricant, the accepted payment for a medicine man
and an offering to the deceased. Perhaps it is the influence of the smoking volcanoes that en­
courages the Sumatrans to light up.

North Sumatra stretches from the Indian a little more immune to the culture shock,
Ocean to the Strait of Melaka and from sea it’s easier to see past the grime and discover
to shining sea it is anything but homogene­ an amenity-filled, leafy and modern town
ous. The rolling landscape varies from sweaty with more than a hint of crumbling Dutch-
plains to cool highlands, while the houses colonial charm.
of worship switch between the metal-domed First impressions are often misleading. Just
mosques to the arrow-straight steeples of when you had Medan dismissed as a chaotic
Christian churches. The coastal Malays, rela­ nightmare, you’ll pass by one of the city’s
tives of peoples from mainland Southeast Asia, grand marble mosques, fading art-deco build­
live along the Strait of Melaka and are the ings or smiling locals and it’s just enough

SUMATRA
largest ethnic group. In the highlands around to make you realise its a city worth hanging
Danau Toba are the delightful Batak, a group around for.
which is further subdivided into five classes.
If you can name them all then you’ve either History
married into the clan or are destined to. Then Medan has had several major incarnations.
there are the Pesisirs (central Tapanuli) along The plains were once used as a battlefield
the Indian Ocean coastline and the megalithic between the kingdoms of Aceh and Deli (the
culture of Pulau Nias (p395). word medan translates as ‘field’ or ‘battle­
North Sumatra has a population of almost field’) from the end of the 16th century to the
12 million and is an economically robust prov­ early 17th century.
ince, producing more than 30% of Indonesia’s But more importantly, Medan was a plant­
exports. Oil, palm oil, tea and rubber are pro­ ers’ trading post, a civilised district of tidy
duced in large quantities, and fine tobacco is lanes and open-air cafes for society-deprived
grown in the rich soil around Medan. plantation owners. An enterprising Dutch
planter named Nienhuys introduced tobacco
MEDAN to the area in 1865, which ushered in prosper­
%061 / pop 2 million ity, imported Chinese labourers and invest­
Sumatra’s major metropolis, and Indonesia’s ment in infrastructure. In 1886 the Dutch
third-largest city, is somewhat mythical in made Medan the capital of North Sumatra
travellers’ circles, regularly popping up in and by the end of Dutch rule the population
‘What’s the worst place you’ve ever visited?’ had grown to about 80,000.
conversations in global backpacker bars. As Once the Dutch were kicked out following
ever, with these things, perspective plays a WWII, Medan tossed off its starched uniform
huge part in the Medan experience. For most and grew as it pleased. A wealthy merchant
tourists, just off the boat from squeaky-clean, class, comprised mainly of ethnic Chinese,
multicultural Malaysia, the pollution, poverty dominates the cosmopolitan side of town,
and persistent cat calls of ‘Hello mister!’ could while a handful of ethnic tribes from all over
be an unnerving jolt of dirt-under-your-fin­ Sumatra make do in the run-down remain­
gernails Asia. However, if you’ve worked der. Animosity towards the Chinese erupted
your way north through Sumatra, and are into violent rioting on Medan’s streets on
 �
372 N O R T H S U MAT R A • • M e d a n lonelyplanet.com

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Sungai Deli
tiro

Plaza
12
Piso
ult

17
iso-
Jl Sip 38

at

39
Jl Utama
u

4
J
li

55
34

lR Jl 36
20

��
H Li 35

ng 21

Ju 13
ga 54

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da ati 29

Jl Su

8
Jl Halat
B
To Traders aru
Jl S

(500m) Jl RH Juanda Baru

isin
ga

To Wisma Hari Kota (1km)

Jl Imam

ma

32
To Museum
n

50
of North
ga

KFC Sumatra
ra

Jl Monginsidi
Bo

(4km)
ja (

njol

Jl K

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Jl Mustang
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To Amplas Bus
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Runway

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To Hotel
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(4km)
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H S U M AT R A • • M e d a n 373

INFORMATION
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Taman Rekreasi
ATM Complex............................ 1 D4
Bukit Barisan Military Seri Deli................................44 D4
ATM Complex............................ 2 D4
Museum...............................24 A3
Tip Top Restaurant....................45 B2
Australian Consulate...................3 A3
Istana Maimoon.......................25 C4

Bank Indonesia............................4 B1
Mesjid Raya............................. 26 D4
DRINKING
BCA Bank...................................5 A3
Tjong A Fie Mansion.................27 B2
Corner Café Raya...................(see 38)
BNI Bank.....................................6 B3
Medan Club...........................(see 40)
Café Zelsy...............................(see 34)
SLEEPING

Danish Consulate........................7 A4
Garuda Plaza Hotel.................. 28 D4
SHOPPING
Dedeq Net..................................8 D4
Hotel Raya............................... 29 D4
Arts & Crafts Shops...................46 B2
DHL........................................(see 30)
Hotel Sumatera........................ 30 D4

Dutch Consulate.........................9 A5
Ibunda Hotel............................31 TRANSPORT
D3

Finnish Consulate......................(see 7)
JJ's Guesthouse........................ 32 Air Asia...................................(see 28)
A5

Gramedia Bookshop.................10 A3
Polonia Hotel............................33 B4

Buses to Ketambe.....................47 D1
Gramedia Bookshop.................11 C2
Ponduk Wisata Angel............... 34 D4

Buses to Singkil
Indian Consulate.......................12 A4
Ronna's Guesthouse I............... 35 D4
(Singkil Raya)........................48 D1
Japanese Consulate.................. 13 A4
Zakia Hotel............................... 36 D4

Garuda......................................49 B1
Main Post Office.......................14 B1
Garuda..................................... 50 A5
Malaysian Consulate................ 15 A4
EATING Kartika Air.................................51 C3
North Sumatra
Bollywood Food Lion Air.....................................52 C3
Tourist Office........................16 B2
Centre..................................37 A3
Malaysian Airlines.....................53 B3
Norwegian Consulate...............17 A4
Corner Café Raya..................... 38 D4
Merpati.................................... 54 D4
Perdana Express........................18 C3
Majestik Bakery & Cafe............ 39 D4
NBA.......................................... 55 C4
Rumah Sakit Gleneagles............19 B2
Medan Club.............................40 A3
Silk Air....................................(see 33)
Sukma Tour & Ferry................. 20 D4
Merdeka Walk..........................41 B2
Sriwijaya Air.............................. 56 C3
Tobali Tour & Travel................. 21 D4
Pasar Ramai..............................42 D2
Susi Air......................................57 B5
Trophy Tours............................22 C3
Ponduk Wisata Angel.............(see 34)
Tobali Tour &
US Consulate............................23 C2
Sehat Vegetarian...................... 43 D2
Travel.................................(see 21)

several occasions during the 1990s, and to able at most of the large shopping plazas. Prices
this day there is still a noted division in the range from 3000Rp to 5000Rp per hour.

SUMATRA
community. Café Zelsy (Jl SM Raja; h9am-10pm)

Dedeq Net (Jl RH Juanda Baru; h9.30am-midnight)

Orientation
The sprawling city of Medan radiates out MEDICAL SERVICES
from the confluence of the Sungai Deli and For an ambulance, dial %118.

Sungai Babura. Most backpackers head to the Rumah Sakit Gleneagles (%456 6368; Jl Listrik 6)

neighbourhood surrounding Mesjid Raya on The best hospital in the city, with a 24-hour walk-in clinic

Jl Sisingamangaraja (SM Raja) for accommo­ and pharmacy, as well as English-speaking doctors and

dation. North of this area is the city centre, specialists.

organised around Jl Pandu and Jl Pemuda. The

historic district occupies Jl Ahmad Yani around MONEY
Lapangan Merdeka (Freedom Sq). The mani­ Medan has branches of just about every bank
cured part of town is Polonia, west of Sungai operating in Indonesia. Most bank headquar­
Deli following the spine of Jl Imam Bonjol. ters sit along the junction of Jl Diponegoro
Little India is sandwiched between Jl H Zainal and Jl H Zainal Arifin.
Arifin, Jl Imam Bonjol and Jl Cik Ditiro. Bank Indonesia (Jl Balai Kota)

BCA bank (Bank Central Asia; Jl H Zainal Arifin)

Information BNI bank (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Pemuda)

BOOKSHOPS
Apart from Bukit Lawang and Danau Toba, Try the following complexes for ATMs:
Sumatra has little English reading material on ATM (Yuki Plaza, Jl SM Raja)
offer, and Medan’s slim pickings is a bumper ATM (Hotel Garuda Plaza, Jl SM Raja)
crop compared to other stops on the road.
Gramedia bookshop Medan Mall (%415 4422; Jl MT Shop around, as exchange rates can differ sig­
Haryono); Sun Plaza (%4501354; Jl H Zainul Arifin) Good nificantly from bank to bank. Medan typically
for maps, nonfiction and the occasional paperback. offers the best rates on the island.
Outside of banking hours (see p823), there
INTERNET ACCESS are moneychangers on the corner of Jl Sipiso-
Medan has speedy warnets (internet stalls) Piso and Jl SM Raja, as well as at travel agen­
across the city, and internet access is also avail­ cies on Jl Katamso.
 374 N O R T H S U MAT R A • • M e d a n lonelyplanet.com

POST his father, who died in a plane crash. He is the

DHL (%453 2225; Jl SM Raja; hclosed Sun) Next door
youngest sultan in Deli history. He currently
to Hotel Sumatera.
resides in Sulawesi, and his role is purely
Main post office (Jl Bukit Barisan; h8am-6pm)
ceremonial.
Located in an old Dutch building on the main square;

internet, fax and photocopying also available.

MESJID RAYA
The impressive Grand Mosque (cnr Jl Mesjid Raya &
TELEPHONE SM Raja; admission by donation; h9am-5pm, except prayer
International calls can be made at several times) was commissioned by the sultan in 1906.
wartel (private telephone offices) or interna­ The Moroccan-style building has towering
tional hotels around town; however, the line ceilings, ornate carvings, Italian marble and
is often poor. stained glass from China.

TOURIST INFORMATION MUSEUMS

There is a basic tourist-information office The Museum of North Sumatra (%771 6792; Jl HM Joni
immediately to the right as you exit at the 51; admission 750Rp; h8.30am-12.30 & 1.30-4pm Tue-Sun)
international airport terminal. has a well-presented collection ranging from
North Sumatra Tourist Office (%452 8436;
early North Sumatran civilisations to Hindu,
Jl Ahmad Yani 107; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Provides
Buddhist and Islamic periods to colonial and
excellent information, brochures and maps. Also displays
military history. Highlights include fine stone
traditional North Sumatran costumes.
carvings from Nias and extravagantly carved
wooden coffins.
TRAVEL AGENCIES Bukit Barisan Military Museum (Jl H Zainal Arifin 8;
Jl Katamso is packed with travel agencies that admission by donation; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri) has a small
handle air tickets and ferry tickets. collection of weapons, photos and memora­
SUMATRA

Perdana Express (%456 6222; Jl Katamso 35G) Sells

bilia from WWII, the War of Independence
Pelni and Penang ferry tickets.
and the Sumatran rebellion of 1958.
Sukma Tour & Ferry (%732 0421; Jl SM Raja 106)

Sells Penang ferry tickets.

COLONIAL MEDAN
Tobali Tour & Travel (%732 4472; Jl SM Raja 79C) For
Ghosts of Medan’s colonial mercantile past
tourist buses to Danau Toba (80,000Rp, four hours).
are still visible along Jl Ahmad Yani from JI
Trophy Tour (%415 5777; [email protected];
Palang Merah north to Lapangan Merdeka.
Jl Katamso 33D) Ticket agent for most of the airlines (1st
Some are still stately relics, while others have
floor), and tour operator (2nd floor).
been gutted and turned into parking garages,
demonstrating the enduring friendship be­
Dangers & Annoyances tween Indonesia and its former coloniser.
Medan can seem like an untamed town at Tjong A Fie Mansion (www.tjongafieinstitute.
times, but while normal big-city common com; Jl Ahmad Yani 105; admission incl guide 35,000Rp;
sense is required, the locals are generally as h10am-5pm), the former residence of a fa­
friendly as village folk. mous Chinese merchant, mixes Victorian
and Chinese styles. It is intentionally similar
Sights to Tjong A Fie’s cousin’s (Cheong Fatt Tze)
ISTANA MAIMOON home in Penang. At the time of research the
Having recently received a much-needed lick mansion was opened to the public for the first
of paint, the Maimoon Palace (Jl Katamso; admis­ time since it was built in 1860. The exquisite
sion by donation; h9am-5pm) stands as grand as hand-painted ceilings, Tjong’s huge bedroom,
ever. Built by the sultan of Deli in 1888, the interesting art pieces, an upstairs ballroom
30-room palace features Malay, Mogul and (which now exhibits work by local artists)
Italian influences. Only the main room is and Taoist temples make the pricey admis­
open to the public; it features the lavish inau­ sion worthwhile. If you’re a fan of 1950s pulp
guration throne. The back wing of the palace fiction, you’ll love his son’s collection in the
is occupied by members of the sultan’s family. Chinese guestroom.
The current sultan, Aria Mahmud Lamanjiji, Across the street is Tip Top Restaurant (see
was only eight years old when he was installed p376), a historic spot for sipping colonial nos­
as the 14th Sultan of Deli in 2005, replacing talgia. Further north is Lapangan Merdeka, a
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels N O R T H S U MAT R A • • M e d a n 375

former parade ground surrounded by hand­ gates are locked, so you’ll need to ring the
some colonial buildings, such as the Bank doorbell tucked inside the left-hand side of
Indonesia, Balai Kota (Town Hall) and the the gate.
post office.
For more information about Medan’s co­ MIDRANGE
lonial architecture, check out Tours Through Hotel tax and breakfast are included in the
Historic Medan and its Surroundings, by Dirk quoted rates.
A Buiskool, a long-time Medan resident. The Hotel Sumatera (%732 1551; Jl SM Raja 35; r without
author also operates Tri Jaya Tour & Travel (%703 bathroom 135,000, with air-con 230,000-285,000Rp; ai)
2967; www.trijaya-travel.com; tours 65,000Rp), which of­ One of the comfiest sleeps out of the glut
fers historic city tours. of hotels around SM Raja. You’ll find that
once you add another zero to the price tag the
Sleeping rooms in Medan start to look a lot better.
The majority of accommodation is on or near Ibunda Hotel (%734 5555; Jl SM Raja 31; s 170,000Rp,
Jl SM Raja. Most budget options have cold d 220,000-300,000Rp; a) A cheery spot, with minty
water only. green walls and new tiled baths.

BUDGET TOP END

Ronna’s Guesthouse I (%732 4556; ronnasaloon@yahoo Medan’s best hotels all have the standard
.com; Jl Tengah 33; r with/without bathroom 40,000/20,000Rp) top-end facilities you’d expect, such as fit­
Friendly bright-yellow guest house with sim­ ness centres, swimming pools and 24-hour
ple but perfectly fine rooms that make a great room service. You’ll also find many of the
choice for those on a tight budget. international chain hotels in town. All rates
Zakia Hotel (%732 2413; Jl Sipiso-Piso 12; s/d without include tax and breakfast.
bathroom 30,000/45,000Rp, r with bathroom 60,000-80,000Rp, Polonia Hotel (%414 2222; www.hotelpolonia.com;

SUMATRA
r with air-con 120,000-130,000Rp; a) An old back­ Jl Jend Sudirman 14; r 350,000-680,000Rp, ste 1,200,000Rp;
packers in the ’90s, Zakia isn’t a bad budget asiW) Excellent-value top-end choice
option but is in dire need of a refurb; none of located in the aristocratic section of Medan,
its Western toilets have seats. close to the airport.
oPonduk Wisata Angel (Hotel Angel; %732 Garuda Plaza Hotel (%736 1111; www.garuda
0702; Jl SM Raja 70; s with fan & with/without bathroom plaza.com; Jl SM Raja 18; r 490,000-1,200,000Rp, ste from
70,000/50,000Rp, s/d with air-con 130,000/150,000Rp; a) 2,500,000Rp; asiW) Almost hip, Garuda
The best backpacker option in town. Angel’s Plaza is Medan’s homage to Jakarta, with
clean rooms are a swirl of vivid blues and modern, corporate accents. Discounts of up
yellows, a colour scheme that almost succeeds to 40% are available.
in offsetting the noisy traffic. It has a sociable Hotel Deli River (%703 2964; Jl Raya Namorambe
street-front cafe (see p376). 129; r 700,000Rp; asiW) Outside the city
Hotel Raya (%7366601; [email protected];s Jl chaos, this family-run hotel is shaded by fruit
RH Juanda Baru 200; r with/without air-con 85,000/65,000Rp; trees and overlooks the Deli River. The hotel
a) A bit of an improvement on most of the provides free transfers from the airport.
other SM Raja cheapies, with large rooms Aryaduta Hotel (% 457 2999; www.aryaduta
looking out to the busy road. .com; Jl Kapten Maulana Lubis 8; r 700,000-1,580,000Rp;
Wisma Hari Kota (%453 3113; Jl Lobak 14; r 77,000­ asiW) One of Medan’s newest luxury
100,000Rp, r with aircon 127,000-150,000Rp; a) Only hotels is international class, with all the frills
10 minutes from the airport, this family-run you’d expect for the price and sprawling high-
guest house has a friendly vibe and com­ rise views across the city. Don’t be put off by
fortable rooms with street-facing balconies. the above-mall location.
Breakfast is included (except for the cheaper
rooms). Eating
JJ’s Guesthouse (%457 8411; www.guesthousemedan Medan has the most varied selection of cui­
.com; Jl Suryo 18; s/d incl breakfast 100,000/180,000Rp; a) sines in Sumatra, from basic Malay-style mie
In an old Dutch villa, JJ’s has tidy boarding- (noodle) and nasi (rice) joints, to top-class
house-style rooms run by a mannerly Dutch- hotel restaurants.
speaking Indonesian woman. Opposite KFC; Lots of simple warungs (food stalls) occupy
its lack of signage makes it tricky to find. The the front courtyards of the houses in the little
 376 N O R T H S U MAT R A • • M e d a n lonelyplanet.com

lanes around Mesjid Raya; the menu is on Medan Club (Jl Kartini 36; dishes 30,000-80,000Rp)
display with a few pre-made curries, coffee, Wealthy and well-dressed expats sip cock­
tea and sometimes juices. tails and dine from the broad international
The main fruit market, Pasar Ramai (Ramani menu, which includes Mexican, French and
Market; Jl Thamrin), next to Thamrin Plaza, is a American dishes.
profusion of colours and smells, and has an Traders (Jl Kapten Pattimura 423; mains 60,000­
impressive selection of local and imported 230,000Rp, Japanese menu 35,000-120,000Rp; hnoon­
tropical fruit. midnight; a) The very plush Traders is the
Majestik Bakery & Cafe (Jl SM Raja 71; pastries perfect spot to blow your dining budget
2000Rp) Keep the munchies at bay during a on sushi, snail chowder, lobster dishes or
long bus ride with sweets from this super­ Australian Angus steaks. If you can somehow
sized bakery. fit more food in, try the Avocado Mousse
Taman Rekreasi Seri Deli (Jl SM Raja; dishes from cake.
8000Rp; hevening only) For basic Malay food, this
venue, opposite the Mesjid Raya, is a slightly Drinking
upmarket approach to stall dining. But the Corner Café Raya (cnr Jl SM Raja & Sipiso-Piso 1; h24hr)
kerupuk (cracker) sellers, blind beggars and Cold beer and Western sports served to a
spoon players might find you more of an odd­ heady mix of seedy sex-pats and fresh-faced
ity than vice versa. backpackers, which makes its location di­
Sehat Vegetarian (Jl Thamrin; dishes from 10,000Rp; rectly opposite the Mesjid Raya mosque a
h6am-9pm; a) The place to go when you can’t little puzzling.
face another gado gado, this Chinese restau­ Traders (Jl Kapten Pattimura 423; hnoon-midnight)
rant has a fascinating choice of unidentifiable The front bar-restaurant has sport on the TV
vegetarian dishes. and is busiest on weekends, especially on two-
oMerdeka Walk (Lapangan Merdeka, Jl Balai for-one Friday night and all-you-can-drink
SUMATRA

Kota; dishes 10,000-15,000Rp; h5-11pm; W) Inspired beer on Sunday (90,000Rp). Out the back is
by Singapore’s alfresco dining, this collection a swanky blue neon–lit bar with pool tables
of outdoor cafes occupies Lapangan Merdeka and live music.
with both fast food and proper restaurants. Medan Club (Jl Kartini 36) A local institution, the
You can burn off the calories on a series of Medan Club is still the place for many well-to­
bizarre public-exercise equipment at the ad­ do locals to socialise on weekends.
joining sports ground.
Bollywood Food Centre (%453 6494; Jl Muara Takus Shopping
7; dishes from 12,000Rp) Lip-smacking Indian-style Medan has a number of interesting arts-and­
curries are a family affair at this blindingly crafts shops, particularly along Jl Ahmad Yani.
bright restaurant in Little India (Kampung Toko Asli (No 62), Toko Rufino (No 56) and Toko Bali
Keling). It also serves cold Bintang. Malay- Arts (No 68) all have selections of antique weav­
Indian roti shops are located nearby. ing, Dutch pottery and carvings.
Ponduk Wisata Angel (Jl SM Raja 70; mains 15,000­ Clothes, shoes, jewellery, electrical goods
20,000Rp) With a laidback backpacker vibe, this and cosmetics can be found at any of Medan’s
cafe could almost pass for a beachside shack numerous multilevel shopping centres. Most
if it weren’t for the insanely busy traffic along also have well-stocked supermarkets.
SM Raja. It does tasty Indonesian dishes and
decent Western food. Sells cold beer. Getting There & Away
Corner Café Raya (cnr Jl SM Raja & Sipiso-Piso 1; dishes Medan is Sumatra’s main international arrival
15,000-40,000Rp; h24hr) A Western-themed cafe and departure point.
serving breakfast fry-ups and burgers as well
as Indonesian dishes. AIR
Tip Top Restaurant (Jl Ahmad Yani 92; dishes Medan’s Polonia Airport is 2km south of the
15,000-50,000Rp; aW) Only the prices have city centre. Remember that there is an airport
changed at this old colonial relic, great for a tax for departing flights (see the boxed text
drink of bygone imperialism. It offers tasty on p847).
Indonesian, Chinese and Western dishes, There are daily international flights from
including a good steak menu. The desserts Medan to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and
are delicious. Penang. Domestic flights connect Medan
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H S U MAT R A • • M e d a n 377

to Jakarta, Banda Aceh, Pekanbaru, Padang, directly with the bus ticketing offices located
Batam, Pontianak and Gunung Sitoli. outside of the terminals.
The following airlines have offices in Medan Amplas bus terminal is 6.5km south of
and serve the destinations as listed: the city centre along Jl SM Raja. Almost any
Air Asia (%733 1988; www.airasia.com; Jl SM Raja 18) opelet heading south on Jl SM Raja will get
Inside Garuda Plaza Hotel; has flights to Jakarta, Kuala you to Amplas (3000Rp). Bus ticket offices
Lumpur. line the street nearby at Km 6 and include
Garuda (%455 6777; Jl Monginsidi 340); Jl Balai Kota 2 the following:
(%453 7844; Inna Dharma Deli, Jl Balai Kota 2) Jakarta, ALS (%786 6685) Serves Bukittinggi (economy
Banda Aceh. 115,000Rp, air-con with/without toilet 150,000/135,000Rp,
Kartika Air (%452 2433; Jl Katamso 37) Batam, Jambi, 22 hours)
Palembang. Kurnia (%786 4177) Runs buses with air-con and toilets
Lion Air (%457 1122; Jl Katamso 41) Jakarta, Banda to Parapat (22,000Rp, four hours), Jambi (250,000Rp, 30
Aceh, Batam, Palembang, Penang. hours) and Palembang (280,000Rp, 40 hours).
Malaysian Airlines (%451 9333; www.malaysiaair Pelangi (%787 8822) Runs buses to Pekanbaru
lines.com; Hotel Danau Toba International, Jl Imam Bonjol (air-con/super-executive 140,000/190,000Rp, 12 to 14
17) Kuala Lumpur, Penang. hours), Banda Aceh (air-con/executive 120,000/200,000Rp,
Merpati (%736 6888; www.merpati.co.id/EN; SM Raja 12 hours), Jambi (air-con/executive 265,000/370,000Rp,
92A) Pulau Simeulue, Sibolga, Gunung Sitoli. 28 to 30 hours) and Palembang (air-con/executive
NBA (Nusantara Buana Air; %453 4680; Jl Katamso) 290,000/370,000Rp, 40 hours).
Singkil, Kutacane.
Silk Air (%453 7744; www.silkair.com; Polonia Hotel, Jl There are frequent public buses to Parapat
Sudirman 14) Singapore. (economy/air-con 12,000/22,000Rp, four
Sriwijaya Air (%455 2111; www.sriwijayaair-online hours, 6am to 6pm), the jumping-off point
.com, in Bahasa Indonesia; Jl Katamso 29) Jakarta, Banda to Danau Toba. Minibuses (80,000Rp, four

SUMATRA
Aceh, Batam, Pekanbaru. hours, frequently up until 6pm) also leave
Susi Air (%785 2169; www.susiair.com; domestic from Tobali Tour & Travel (%732 4472; Jl SM Raja
airport) Pulau Simeulue, Meulaboh, Silangit. 79C).
Pinang Baris bus terminal (Jl Gatot Subroto), 10km
BOAT west of the city centre, serves northern des­
High-speed ferries (one way/return 140/210 tinations. Get there by taxi (40,000Rp) or by
Malaysian ringgit; five hours; noon Tuesday, opelet 24, 37 or 64 (5000Rp).
Thursday and Saturday) depart from the There are frequent public buses to both
port of Belawan, 26km from Medan, to the Bukit Lawang (15,000Rp, three hours) and
Malaysian city of Penang. Berastagi (15,000Rp, 2½ hours) every half-
A complimentary bus transfer to Belawan hour between 5.30am and 6pm.
from Medan is available. There is a 35,000Rp Although there are buses to Banda Aceh
surcharge for harbour tax. Tickets can be from Pinang Baris, it’s easier to get to Banda
bought from agents on Jl Katamso or Jl Aceh from the Pelangi ticket agent near
SM Raja (see p374). Arriving in Belawan Amplas.
from Penang, the bus transfer to Medan is A minibus departs at 8pm daily for Singkil
not included in the price. You can take the (80,000Rp, 10 hours), the departure point
green opelet 81 between Belawan and Medan for boats to the Banyak Islands. Buses de­
(8000Rp). part from Singkil Raya (%081 26560739; Jl Bintan),
Pelni ships sail to Jakarta and Batam. The past the caged-bird warehouses. Here you’ll
Pelni office (%6622526; Jl Krakatau 17A) is 8km north also find buses to Ketambe (100,000Rp, eight
of the city centre, but it is much easier to buy hours). Take opelet 53 from Jl SM Raja to
tickets and check schedules from the agencies Medan Mall.
on Jl Katamso.
TRAIN
BUS Rail services are very limited, with just two
There are two major bus terminals in Medan: trains a day to Tanjung Balai (economy
Amplas, serving southern destinations, and only, 10,000Rp). There are four trains
Pinang Baris, serving northern destinations. daily to Rantauparapat (business/executive
For long-distance travel, most people deal 40,000/60,000Rp).
 378 N O R T H S U MAT R A • • B u k i t L a w a n g lonelyplanet.com

Getting Around Bukit Lawang was extensively damaged by

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT a flash flood in November 2003, which killed
It is cheaper and less of a hassle to sail past 239 people and destroyed much of the river­
the throng of taxi drivers to the becak queue front development. The essentials of the town
at the airport gate (becak aren’t allowed in­ and tourist infrastructure have been rebuilt
side the airport). It should cost 10,000Rp to but the community is still grieving for lost
reach the hotel district on Jl SM Raja. If you relatives and livelihoods.
like to haggle, a taxi ride should cost around
30,000Rp. Orientation & Information
The nearby village of Gotong Royong, 2km
PUBLIC TRANSPORT southeast of Sungai Bohorok, has effectively
Medan’s got more opelet than you can shake become the new town centre. About a kilo-
a spoon player at. They cost 3000Rp for most metre north of the bus stop, the stretch of
in-town destinations. Here are a few help­ riverside accommodation begins.
ful routes: white Mr X from Jl SM Raja to There are no banks, but you’ll find money-
Kesawan Sq, Lapangan Merdeka and the train changers along the strip. There is no post
station; and yellow 64 from Maimoon Palace office here, but you can buy stamps from
to Sun Plaza. the shops and use a local post box. There
For becak, expect to pay about 8000Rp for is a market on Friday and on Sunday in
most destinations. But they’ll ask you to pay Bohorok town, 15km away, where you will
more than double that. also find the nearest police station and medi­
cal clinic.
BUKIT LAWANG Leuser Netwave (per hr 25,000Rp; h10am-10pm),
%061 / pop 30,000 at the top of a hill, has pricey and often un­
Lost in the depths of the Sumatran jungle reliable internet connection. A few other in­
SUMATRA

is this sweet little tourist town built around ternet cafes were opening up at the time of
the popularity of its orangutan-viewing research.
centre. But Bukit Lawang has much more
to offer beyond our red-haired cousins. It’s Bukit Lawang Guide Association (h7am-2pm)
very easy to while away a few days lounging Located across the street from the visitor centre, this place
in the many riverside hammocks, listening distributes a rate sheet for hikes.
to the mating calls over the gushing river Bukit Lawang Visitors Centre (h8am-3pm) Dis­
and watching the jungle life swing and sing plays of flora and fauna found in Gunung Leuser National
around you. The surrounding jungle is one Park, plus a book of medicinal plants and their uses. Past
of the most biodiverse regions in the world, visitors often record reviews of guides in the sign-in book.
and is home to eight species of primate plus PHKA permit office (park entrance; h8am-10am & 3­
tiger, rhino, elephant, pangolin, leopard and 4pm) Timed with the orangutan feedings, the rangers open
cobras (though most of the larger mammals up this office to collect permit fees; don’t bother arranging
are very rarely seen). permits in town. If you’re taking another entrance to the
Tourists, almost exclusively, come here to park, guides can arrange permits for you.
check out the orangutans. The conservation
program has been operating on the eastern Dangers & Annoyances
edge of the Gunung Leuser National Park Not so much a danger as an annoyance: there
since the 1970s. The national park is one of are 140 guides and rarely more than a dozen
the orangutan’s last remaining strongholds, tourists in town, which means that the guide
with more than 5000 thought to be living in harangue starts on the bus before you’ve even
the wild here. left Medan. A friendly stranger hops aboard
Since the village is only 96km northwest of and makes a beeline to the nearest available
Medan, Bukit Lawang is also one of the easi­ seat. They are full of Bukit Lawang titbits and
est places from which to make the leap into just so happen to be going in the same direc­
the jungle, a diverse and rugged forest criss­ tion, or, imagine that, they’re a guide. They’ll
crossed by clear, fast-flowing rivers. Many then escort you to a guest house, sit you down
tourists slip-slide through the mud and un­ and sign you up for a trek. The trick is to be
dergrowth on multiday treks and hobble back polite and feel no obligation to book anything
to the village to recuperate. unless you want to.
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H S U MAT R A • • B u k i t L a w a n g 379

RED-HEADED COUSINS
Orangutans, the world’s largest arboreal mammals, once swung through the forest canopy
throughout all of Southeast Asia, but are now found only in Sumatra and Borneo. Researchers
fear that the few that do remain will not survive the continued loss of habitat to logging and
agriculture.
While orangutans are extremely intelligent animals, their way of life isn’t compatible with a
shrinking forest. Orangutans are mostly vegetarians; they get big and strong (some males weigh
up to 90kg) from a diet that would make a Californian hippie proud: fruit, shoots, leaves, nuts
and tree bark, which they grind up with their powerful jaws and teeth. They also occasionally
eat insects, eggs and small mammals.
All of the forest is their pantry, requiring them to migrate through a large territory following
the fruit season. But they aren’t social creatures; they prefer a solitary existence foraging during
the day and building a new nest every night high up in the trees away from predators.
Orangutans have a long life span, often living up to 30- to 40-years old in the wild. They breed
slowly and have few young. Females reach sexual maturity at about the age of 10 and remain
fertile until about the age of 30, on average having only one baby every six years. Only the females
raise the young, which stay with their mothers until reaching sexual maturity.
The ‘orang hutan’ (a Malay word for ‘person of the forest’) has an extremely expressive face,
which has often suggested a very close kinship with the hairless ape (humans). But of all the
great apes, the orangutans are considered to be the most distantly related to humans.

Sights the centre’s ‘welfare’ platform are typically

ORANGUTAN FEEDING CENTRE nursing or pregnant females in need of an

SUMATRA
Bukit Lawang’s famous orangutan centre was extra source of nutrition.
set up in 1973 to help primates readjust to the There are two feeding times a day: 8.30am
wild after captivity or displacement through to 9.30am and 3pm to 4pm. These are the only
land clearing. Much of the original duties of times visitors are allowed to enter the national
the centre have been moved to more remote park without a guide.
locations, but twice-daily feedings are still pro­ The feeding platform is located on the
vided to semidependent orangutans. These west bank of Sungai Bohorok within the park
events are open to the public (no guide re­ boundaries, about a 20-minute walk up from
quired) and provide one of the closest views of the village. The river crossing to the park of­
the forest ape outside the confines of a zoo. fice is made by dugout canoe. Permits are
During the centre’s decades-long opera­ required to enter the park (20,000Rp) and
tion, it has introduced 200 orangutans into are available from the office (h8am-10am & 3­
the jungle and many of them have success­ 4pm) at the foot of the trail to the platform. If
fully mated with the wild population. Many you have a camera/video camera you’ll have
of the animals have been kept as caged pets; to pay an additional 50,000/150,000Rp at the
the centre teaches them how to forage for office, with no refunds if orangutans don’t
food in the wild, build nests, climb trees and come to the feeding platform – during peak
other essentials for survival after release. The fruit season they often don’t.
orangutans are also treated for diseases that Since 1996 the centre has been closed to
they contracted during contact with humans. new arrivals, as the park is considered to be
The most recent release of an orangutan into saturated with orangutans. A replacement
the wild was in 2005. quarantine centre, just outside Medan, opened
Once the apes are on their own in the in 2002 to carry on the rehabilitation efforts,
wild, the centre still provides supplemen­ but it is not open to the public. Originally
tary feedings in case of awkward transitions funded by World Wildlife Fund and Frankfurt
or demanding circumstances. The feedings Zoological Society, the centre now falls under
provided by the centre consist of milk and the management of the Indonesian govern­
bananas and are considered a fairly bland diet ment, which does not provide adequate fi­
compared with the diversity of food found in nancial resources. Park rangers are not paid
the forest. The semi-wild apes who appear at in a timely fashion and permit money is sent
 380 N O R T H S U MAT R A • • B u k i t L a w a n g lonelyplanet.com

directly to Jakarta. Despite these problems, Gunung Palung, Bukit Raja, Sebangau, Danau
the rangers are dedicated to their jobs and Sentarum and Betung Kerihun national parks

����
often supplement their incomes and their in Kalimantan; as well as in neighbouring
hands-on experience by working with for­ Sarawak and Sabah in Malaysia.
eign researchers. For more information about Sumatran or­
Outside Gunung Leuser National Park, angutans try the Sumatran Orangutan Society (SOS;
orangutans can be found in the Tanjung www.orangutans-sos.org) and the Sumatran Orangutan
Puting and Kutai National Parks; in the Conservation Programme (www.sumatranorangutan.

����
com).
BUKIT LAWANG
0 500 m Activities
0 0.3 miles
TREKKING
A B Treks into the Gunung Leuser National Park
INFORMATION require a guide and can last anywhere from

����
Bukit Lawang Guide Association.........1 B4
1 Bukit Lawang Visitors Centre..............2 B4
three hours to two days. Most people opt for
PHKA Permit Office & Park Entrance..3 B3 two days so that they can spend the night in
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES the jungle, which increases their likelihood
Bat Cave............................................4 A4 of seeing orangutans and other critters in the
Orangutan Feeding Centre.................5 A3
Tubing Rental.....................................6 B4 wild. It is best to hike in a small group and to
SLEEPING
set off as early as possible.
Choosing a guide can be a tricky task as

����
Ecolodge Bukit Lawang......................7 A5
Garden Inn.........................................8
Green Hill...........................................9
B3
B3
there are so many and the choice can be in­
Jungle Border...................................10 B4 timidating. Despite the pressure, take your
Jungle Inn.........................................11 B3
2
Nora's Homestay..............................12 A5
time in choosing a guide. Talk to returning
trekkers and decide how much jungle time
SUMATRA

Rain Forest.......................................13 B4
Wisma Leuser Sibayak......................14 B4
you really need.
EATING If you just want a few souvenir pictures

����
Tony's Restaurant............................15 B4
and stories, find a guide you like. People who
TRANSPORT trekked with guides from the village have
Bus Station.......................................16 A5
Canoe to Park Entrance....................17 B3 mainly positive feedback, with the greatest
kudos going to the nightly meals and camp­
fire socials. Common complaints range from
3 guides who don’t know enough about the

����
5
3 17 flora and fauna, the bunching together of
11 treks, and the feeding of orangutans.
Gunung Leuser 8 Guide rates are fixed by the Sumatra Guide
National Park
9
Association. For a minimum of three people
it’s €15 for a three-hour trek; €25 for a day
trek; and €60/50 with/without rafting for a
13 two-day trek including overnight camping
10
To Leuser in the jungle. Add €25 per extra day in the
4 Netwave
4
(300m) jungle. ‘Rafting’ back to town, which actu­
ally involves rubber tubes tied together, is a
14 15 popular option that allows you to trek deeper
6 into the jungle and makes for a fun and relax­
rok
o ho 1 PHKA ing way to finish your trek. Prices include a
7 aiB 2 Ranger
Su
ng Station visit to the feeding centre, basic meals, guide
Flood Memorial fees, camping equipment and the park permit.
Rock Garden
Camping involves a tarpaulin sheet thrown
over bamboo poles, with everyone sleeping
5 16
12 in the same tent.
To Malicky
Hill (250m) A word of warning: trekking in the jungle
Gotong
To Bohorok
(15km)
Royong is no stroll in the park. You’ll encounter steep
slippery ascents and precipitous drops amid
intense humidity, so a good level of fitness is
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H S U MAT R A 381

SAVE THE ORANGUTANS

A tragic paradox of Bukit Lawang is that the tourist presence, which keeps the viewing and
rehabilitation centre running, is killing the orangutan population. It’s a vicious circle, because
the tourists are needed to maintain Bukit Lawang as a profitable and protected region. However,
orangutans are extremely susceptible to human disease, and the semi-wild orangutans that come
into contact with humans every day are passing on diseases across the orangutan population.
Just a mild cold can potentially kill an orangutan. Without the orangutans, there is no jungle,
as their seed-filled faeces are needed to maintain and spread the plant life. There are no reli­
able figures available, but a great number of orangutans – young, old, wild and semiwild – are
dying from some form of human illness, in particular influenza. Infant mortality is estimated to
be as high as 75%.
Respected conservation scientist and owner of Green Hill lodge, Andrea Molyneaux, recom­
mends these tourist guidelines for protecting the orangutan population in Bukit Lawang.
 The recommended maximum number of people per trekking group is seven: this controls the
risk of human impacts and optimises your viewing experience.
 At the feeding platform you are allowed to stay for a maximum of 30 minutes. If you meet
orangutans when trekking stay with them for no longer than 10 minutes.
 Visitors who are sick (eg cough, diarrhoea) should not go trekking or to the feeding platform.
Please report any sickness to your guide or a ranger and your visit can be rescheduled. Rang­
ers and guides can refuse a visit to anyone showing obvious signs of illness.
 Healthy visitors should not be closer than 10m to orangutans.

SUMATRA
Observe the following etiquette when you are close to orangutans:
 Do not call the orangutans.

 Do not feed or give them drinks.

 Do not smoke, eat, drink, cough, sneeze or spit.

 Always stay in a close group and never lose contact with your guide.

 When possible you should sit when watching the orangutans.

 Show respect by being as silent as possible and using good body language (no shouting, no
sudden movements, no making monkey sounds etc).
 Do not use flash photography. It will not be effective anyway.

 Do not approach or try to touch them and NEVER come between a mother and her baby.

When you are in the rainforest, abide by these guidelines:

 It is forbidden to enter the rainforest without a guide.

 Do not pressure your guide to get closer to animals, shake trees or give them food so you can
take photographs.
 If you feel your guide has behaved inappropriately inform the guide office.

 Do not leave any litter in the forest, eg tissues, water bottles, cigarette butts, food scraps.
It must be carried outside of the forest then disposed of. This includes fruit skins (such as
banana, orange, rambutan), which may carry your germs.
 If you must defecate you should dig a hole at least 2ft deep. You can borrow a parang/ma­
chete from your guide. All faecal material and tissue must be buried.
 Do not disturb or collect anything from the forest such as flowers, insects, seeds etc.

Some of these may seem extreme but so is the situation, and due attention to these rules by
tourists is vital if we are to maintain the orangutans’ existence in and around Bukit Lawang.
 382 N O R T H S U MAT R A • • B u k i t L a w a n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

THE NOTORIOUS MINA

The most well-known inhabitant of Bukit Lawang’s jungle is a fiery female orangutan named Mina,
who’s earned a reputation among locals as the most feared, yet most loved, of the orangutans.
She’s known for her aggression towards humans – it seems every guide has a tale of a violent
encounter with Mina at some point or another. At last count she’d attacked some 64 guides! Yet
from the guides you’ll hear nothing but love for this bad girl of the jungle, as nearly all run-ins
result from tourists not heeding to guides’ advice, and getting too close. Once held captive as
a pet, the 29-year-old Mina is one of the first orangutans released into the wild here, and her
aggression is largely a result of her expectation of being fed by humans. She is the perfect case
study as to why tourists should ensure that they take the proper precautions by never feeding
or coming too close to these magnificent apes.

essential. The trails can be well-worn paths Sleeping

or barely visible breaks in the underbrush. The further upriver you go, the more likely
Pack at least two bottles of water per day. If you are to ogle the swinging monkeys and
you don’t have trekking shoes, and have small apes from your porch hammock. You won’t
feet, in town you may be able to buy a pair of find hot water or air-con at any of the guest
cheap but reliable shoes with studded soles, houses. The following are listed in geographic
the same as most guides wear. order from south to north.
Nora’s Homestay (%081 36207 0656; r 40,000­
SHORT WALKS 50,000Rp) Nora’s little cluster of bamboo huts
There are a number of short walks around between the rice fields and the main road is an
Bukit Lawang that don’t require guides or old backpacker favourite with a reputation for
SUMATRA

permits. being Sumatra’s friendliest guest house. Many

The canal that runs alongside the river is an readers swear by it, despite the prettier-located
easy stroll through the village. In the evening guest houses upriver. Nora is very helpful with
everything gets washed in the rushing waters: local information, though these days she’s
frolicking kids, soiled bums, dirty laundry. mostly found at Rain Forest (see below).
Activities usually considered private are social Ecolodge Bukit Lawang (%081 2607 9983; http://
in the communal waters. ecolodge.yelweb.org; r incl breakfast s 130,000-275,000Rp,
The most interesting is a 20-minute walk, d 155,000-300,000Rp) Popular with package tour­
signposted from the Ecolodge Bukit Lawang, ists, the village’s most upmarket lodging has
to a bat cave. This 2km walk passes through a range of hotel-style rooms. There are many
rubber plantations and patches of forest, and commendable attempts at ecofriendly busi­
by a children’s foster home. A lot of the trees ness: an organic garden provides produce
are durian, so take care in late June and July, for the restaurant, a medicinal-plant garden
when the spiked fruits crash to the ground preserves the pharmaceutical aspects of the
(there are signs warning people not to linger). jungle, and there’s recycling. Children under
You’ll need a torch (flashlight) to explore the 10 stay free.
cave. Wisma Leuser Sibayak (%0813 6101 0736; r 50,000­
60,000Rp) A basic cheapie that’s worth a stay if
TUBING you’ve arrived at night and don’t fancy trek­
A shed along the river en route to the oran­ king up through the jungle path in the dark.
gutan centre rents inflated truck inner tubes Its rickety bridge across the river is rather
(10,000Rp per day), which can be used to ride frightening, though.
the Sungai Bohorok rapids. On weekends, the Rain Forest (%081 362070656; d 30,000-40,000Rp)
river near the bridge resembles a water theme Nora (or ‘Mama’, as she calls herself) has re­
park, with Indonesian tourists having the time cently opened this new spot on the river. The
of their lives. Don’t underestimate the river, big house has rooms as close as you’ll find on
though; currents are extremely strong and the water at bargain prices. Nora also has cook­
when the water is high, tubing is officially off ing classes for 100,000Rp, including meal.
limits, though few will tell you this. Tube at Green Hill (%081 26364 3775; www.greenhill-bukit
your own risk. lawang.com; dm 30,000Rp, r with/without bathroom incl
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels N O R T H S U MAT R A • • Ta n g k a h a n 383

breakfast 150,000Rp/60,000Rp) For a few more rupiah take a stand against the palm-oil loggers that
you get a lot more than what’s offered by most working in this wild part of northern Sumatra.
of the competition. Run by English conser­ Armed with a few rifles and machetes, and
vation scientist Andrea Molyneaux and her using elephants to patrol the jungle against
Sumatran husband, Green Hill has two lovely loggers and poachers, the locals have gradu­
stilt-high rooms ideal for couples, where the ally lobbied the government into declaring the
en suite bamboo-shoot showers afford stun­ region a protected area. Fast forward a decade
ning jungle views while you wash. Also has and the once-doomed region is still home to
dorms and cheaper rooms available. all manner of apes, monkeys, lizards and, of
Garden Inn (%0812 6355 6285; [email protected]; r course, elephants. Not so much a village as
50,000-150,000Rp) A popular backpacker choice. a bus stop, a park entrance and a handful of
The lovely high rooms look over the river and basic riverside bungalows on the wild banks of
the jungle, plus there’s a sweet little cafe for the Kualsa Buluh River, Tangkahan has a tiny
swapping monkey-spotting tales. community of amiable loggers-turned-guides
Jungle Inn (%0813 6550 5005; [email protected]; selling an experience as close as you’ll get to
d 50,000-450,000Rp). The last guest house along the Tarzan living on this untamed isle.
strip near the park entrance, Jungle Inn is an old
favourite of many a reader. One room overlooks Sights & Activities
a waterfall, while another incorporates the hill’s For many, the elephants are the main draw
rock face, and the bathroom sprouts a shower here: you can give them their morning bath
from living ferns. Its only downsides are the (20,000Rp) or be taken on an elephant-back
sometimes unreliable information provided by trek (one hour, 250,000Rp). But it’s also a
staff and overcharging for treks. wonderful place to relax in the wild, exploring
At the time of research, a new ecolodge the jungle and taking isolated morning dips
called Jungle Border was about to open across in the river. At the time of research there were

SUMATRA
the river from Rain Forest guest house, with also plans to offer four-day elephant treks
five bungalows at the edge of the jungle, or­ from Tangkahan into Bukit Lawang.
ganic food and a yoga centre planned. Grade III white-water rafting is also a
popular activity (450,000Rp).
Eating
All the guest houses along the river en route to Sleeping
the park entrance serve Western food, barbe­ There are only four places to stay in the area,
cued fish, nasi goreng (fried rice), fruit salads with little to separate each one. Green Lodge (r
and a laidback ambience. Here is also where 100,000Rp), situated by the elephant-washing
the guides camp out for new arrivals. area, has simple wood cabins. On the other
Tony’s Restaurant (mains 25,000Rp, pizzas 40,000­ side of the river (listed in the order you’ll find
63,000Rp) Located further up the river, Tony’s them once you’ve crossed the river), Mega Inn,
fires up tasty pizzas in a riverfront shack. Bamboo Lodge and Jungle Lodge all have fairly
basic en suite bungalows with river views
Getting There & Away from 80,000Rp. All of the guest houses serve
There are direct buses to Medan’s Pinang simple meals.
Baris bus terminal every half-hour between
5.30am and 5pm (10,000Rp, four hours). Getting There & Away
Minivans (15,000Rp, three hours) also leave There are three direct buses that depart daily
for Medan throughout the day. to Medan’s Pinang Baris terminal (20,000Rp,
four hours). To get to Tangkahan from Bukit
TANGKAHAN Lawang, take one of the many buses to Binjai
This is the place for a truly wild and off-the­ (10,000Rp, 2½ hours), from where it is possible
map adventure. Having ticked off seeing the to change for a bus to Tangkahan (15,000Rp,
orangutans in Bukit Lawang, in-the-know 2½ hours). Alternatively, any of the local
ecotourists are now trickling north to experi­ guides will take you direct from Bukit Lawang
ence the jungle aboard elephants in this un­ on a moped (150,000Rp, three hours) –
discovered retreat. be warned that the road is treacherous. Most
Towards the end of the 1990s a few foreign Medan-based travel agents can arrange 4WD
ecologists and conscientious locals decided to transport (600,000Rp, 2½ hours).
 384 N O R T H S U MAT R A • • B e r a s t a g i lonelyplanet.com

BERASTAGI Telkom wartel (Jl Veteran) Near the memorial at the

%0628 / pop 600,000 northern end of the street is a 24-hour Telkom wartel,
Escaping from the infernal heat of sea-level which has a Home Country Direct phone and internet.
Medan, the colonial Dutch traders climbed Tourist Information Centre (%91084; Jl Gundaling 1;
high into the lush, cool, volcanic hills, took h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) Has maps and can arrange guides.
one look at the stunningly verdant, undulat­ D’Z@S Net (Jl Perwira; h7am-midnight) Decent-speed
ing landscape and decided to build a rural internet.
retreat where Berastagi (also called Brastagi)
now stands. Sights & Activities
Today weekending Medan folk and back­ Berastagi is underutilised as an escape from
packers alike sigh a crisp, clear breath of relief Indonesia’s intensity. Most people spend
when they arrive in this quaint agricultural es­ a couple of days hiking here and then trek
cape situated high among Sumatra’s steaming south to Danau Toba. But there is a lot of
volcanoes. Though the town itself is not overly unhindered wandering you can do on foot
pretty, a concrete jungle set amid beautiful and motorbike. .
surrounds, as an agricultural trade centre its
markets are always humming with activity, TRADITIONAL VILLAGES
and modern-day snake-oil hawkers fill the There are some fine examples of traditional
sidewalks with ‘big city’ amusements for iso­ Karo Batak architecture in the villages
lated country folk. On Sunday, the largely around Berastagi. Most of the houses are no
Christian community takes the babies and more than 60 years old – or possibly 100,
bibles out for worship. but certainly not 400, as claimed by some
Beyond the town are the green fields of the guides.
Karo Highlands, dominated by two volcanoes:
Gunung Sinabung to the west and the smoking Kampung Peceren
SUMATRA

Gunung Sibayak to the north. Though you On the northern outskirts of Berastagi, this
won’t find lava in either Sibayak or Sinabung, village has a cluster of traditional houses,
each still has the feel of everything you hoped to which are still occupied. Any opelet heading
experience from an active volcano, with steamy north can drop you there (2000Rp). There’s
gases gushing from the fumaroles like a mad a 2000Rp entry fee to the village.
scientist’s laboratory. These volcanoes are a
day hike apiece, making them two of Sumatra’s Lingga
most accessible volcanoes, and the primary The best-known and most visited of these
reason why tourists get off the bus here. villages is Lingga (admission 2000Rp), a few kilome­
Berastagi is at an altitude of 1300m, and tres northwest of Kabanjahe. There is about
the climate is deliciously cool, sometimes a dozen traditional houses with characteris­
even cold. tic horned roofs. Some, such as the rumah
rajah (king’s house), are occupied and in good
Orientation condition; others, including the sapo ganjang
Berastagi is essentially a one-street town (the house for young unmarried men), have
spread along Jl Veteran. The colourful Tugu almost collapsed.
Perjuangan (Combat Memorial), commemo­ There are regular opelet to Lingga from
rating the Bataks’ struggle against the Dutch Kabanjahe (8000Rp).
in the 1800s, marks the centre of town. The
hill to the northwest is Bukit Gundaling, a Dokan
popular picnic spot. The charming little village of Dokan is approx­
imately 16km south of Kabanjahe. Traditional
Information houses are still in the majority and most are
BNI bank (Jl Veteran) With ATMs.
in good condition. Entry is by donation. You
BRI bank (Jl Veteran) With ATMs.
can get here by the occasional direct opelet
Sibayak Trans Tour &Travel (%91122; dicksonpe
from Kabanjahe (5000Rp).
[email protected]; Jl Veteran 119) Books plane tickets and

has information about local and onward travel.

AIR TERJUN SIPISO-PISO
Post office (Jl Veteran) Near the memorial at the north­ These narrow but impressive falls cascade
ern end of the street.
120m down to the north end of Danau Toba,
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H S U MAT R A • • B e r a s t a g i 385

24km from Kabanjahe and about 300m from

BERASTAGI the main road. It is fairly easy to get here by
0 100 m
0 0.1 miles
yourself; take a bus from Kabanjahe to Merek
A B To Kampung (10,000Rp) and then walk or hitch a ride on
Peceren (2.5km);
a motorbike.

Jl Se
Hotel Bukit Medan (70km)
Kubu

mpu
To Sibayak Multinational
1 Resthouse (2.2km);

rna
Semangat Gunung (3km);
Gunung Sibayak (4km to
TREKKING TO VOLCANOES
Power
trail base along most Station Trails on both volcanoes are neither clearly

��
direct route)
To Hotel Internasional marked nor well maintained, and it is easy
Sibayak (100m); Brastagi
Cottage (1km); Bukit to get lost or lose your footing. During the
Gundaling (12km);
Gunung Sinabung (12km) wet season, paths can be extremely slippery
Jl Me
rdeka or even washed out. The weather is variable
Jl
Gu

and views from either mountain are far from

n

Pasar
da

Buah
lin

guaranteed. Be prepared for abrupt weather

g

12
2
10 7
changes (fog, cold temperatures and rain can
Tugu
13
4 Perjuangan sneak up during a clear day). Bring supplies
Park
erwira Jl Trimurti
Jl P
6
5 such as food, drink, rain gear and a torch, in
Police
Station
11 case you get caught out after dark.
Jl Trimurti

2 Gunung Sibayak
At 2094m, Gunung Sibayak is probably the
most accessible of Indonesia’s volcanoes.
Jl Veteran
Jl Veteran

Internet Café A guide is only essential if taking the route

Public
3 Health Centre
8
1
through the jungle, though if you’re trekking
alone it may be a good idea. Rates for guides

SUMATRA
are 150,000Rp for the easy way along the road,
asjid and 200,000Rp to 250,000Rp through the jun­
Jl M
gle. The hike can be done in five hours return,
iaga
an and you should set out as early as possible.
3 ern
Jl P There are three ways to tackle the climb,
Jl V

depending on your energy level. The easi­

e
Jl V

tera

est way is to take the track that starts to the

eter

14
n

northwest of town, a 10-minute walk past the

an

4
Jl Pa

Sibayak Multinational Resthouse. Take the

sar

left-hand path beside the hut where you pay

Chemist Giant
Cabbage
the entrance fee (1500Rp). From here it’s 7km
(about three hours) to the top and fairly easy
ar
a to follow, mostly along a road. Finding the
d

9 path down is a little tricky. When you reach

Jl U

the crater, turn 90 degrees to the right (anti-

To
INFORMATION Kabanjahe (12km); clockwise), climb up to the rim and start look­
ATM........................................1 B3 Lingga (16km);
5
BNI Bank..................................2 A3 Dokan (28km); ing for the stone steps down the other side of
Gunung Leuser
BRI Bank..................................3 B4 National Park the mountain. If you can’t find the steps, you
D’Z@S Net...............................4 A2 (160km)
Post Office...............................5 A2 can also go back the way you came.
Sibayak Trans Tour &Travel...(see 8) On the descent you can stop off at the vari­
Telkom Wartel.........................6 A2
Tourist Information Centre......7 A2 ous hot springs (admission 3000-5000Rp) in Semangat
SLEEPING
Gunung, on the road back to Berastagi. You’ll
Sibayak Losmen Guesthouse....8 B3 be disappointed if you’re expecting natural
Wisma Sibayak........................9 B5 springs; instead you’ll find a complex of small
Wisma Sunrise View..............10 A2
concrete pools. As soon as you soak your ach­
EATING
6
Café Raymond.......................11 B2
ing muscles in its delightfully warm waters,
Fruit & Produce Market..........12 A2 you won’t mind one bit. If you want privacy
Smiley's Café.........................13 A2
away from excitable children, it’s a good idea
TRANSPORT
To Gunung to look at a few places scattered along the
Bus & Opelet Terminal...........14 B4 Sinabung (27km)
road, most of which are empty.
 386 N O R T H S U MAT R A • • B e r a s t a g i Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

IN THE KNOW ON VOLCANOES

There’s nothing like an exhausting hike up a volcano and a nervous peek into the pit to ignite
an interest in earth science.
Inside both Sibayak and Sinabung are fumaroles, vents through which gases escape. Sulphur
is the most pungent of the steaming vapours and causes difficulty in breathing if you get too
close. Sulphur also lends its brilliant yellow colour to some of the surrounding rocks.
Volcanic rocks are classified by how much silica they contain. The easiest types to identify
within a volcanic crater are the subsets of rhyolite: pumice and obsidian. The black, glassy obsid­
ian is formed when lava cools quickly, typically a result of effusive lava flows. The white porous
material that gives way when you walk on it is pumice, which is the solidified version of a frothy,
gas-filled lava eruption.

Alternatively, you can catch a local bus BUDGET

(5000Rp) to Semangat Gunung at the base of Sibayak Losmen Guesthouse (%91122; dicksonpe
the volcano, from where it’s a two-hour climb [email protected]; Jl Veteran 119; r with/without bathroom
to the summit. There are steps part of the way, 60,000/40,000Rp; iW) Nice cheapies with a lot
but this track is narrower and in poorer condi­ of Indonesian personality make this place feel
tion than the one from Berastagi. more like a homestay. Wi-fi in the lobby.
The longest option is to trek through the Wisma Sunrise View (%92404; Jl Kaliaga; r 50,000­
jungle from Air Terjun Panorama; this water­ 60,000Rp) Here you’ll find very basic rooms
fall is on the Medan road, about 5km north perched on the little hill that earns Sunrise
of Berastagi. Allow at least five hours for this its namesake view. It’s just far enough outside
walk. of town to be a convenient stroll.
SUMATRA

Before setting out, pick up a map from Wisma Sibayak (%91104; Jl Udara 1; r with bathroom
Wisma Sibayak (see right) in Berastagi and 80,000-125,000Rp, r without bathroom 50,000-60,000Rp; i)
peruse the guest book for comments and Tidy and spacious rooms in the two-storey
warnings about the hike. building have great views. The restaurant has
traveller comment books and knowledgeable
Gunung Sinabung staff.
This peak, at 2450m, is considerably higher Sibayak Multinational Resthouse (%91031; Jl
than Sibayak, with even more stunning views Pendidikan 93; r 100,000-120,000Rp) A nice quiet option
from the top. Be warned, though, that the away from the town centre. Multinational has a
clouds love mingling with the summit and manicured garden and rooms with hot showers.
can often obscure the vista. The hotel is a short opelet ride north of town on
Most guest houses recommend taking a the road to Gunung Sibayak.
guide (200,000Rp to 300,000Rp), as hikers
have gotten lost and died. The path up the MIDRANGE & TOP END
mountain from Danau Kawar is fairly well A number of three- and four-star hotels ap­
trodden by locals, but relying on a guide takes peal to out-of-towners, but their price tags
the guesswork out of timing your return to don’t match their standards.
town or reading changing weather conditions. Brastagi Cottage (%91345; Jl Gundaling; d incl
The climb takes six to eight hours depending breakfast 450,000-550,000Rp, tr 730,000Rp) Another
on your skill and the descent route. quiet, out-of-town possibility with a range of
To reach the trailhead, take an opelet to stylish rooms. There are great garden views.
Danau Kawar (7000Rp, 1½ hours). Entry fee is Discounts of 20% available.
2500Rp. There is a scenic camp site surrounding Hotel Internasional Sibayak (%20152; www.hotel
Danau Kawar for those travelling with gear. sibayak.com; Jl Merdeka; d incl breakfast 750,000-900,000Rp,
cottages 1,000,000Rp, ste 2,000,000-3,000,000Rp; s)
Sleeping Wooden floors, generous beds, read-the­
Jl Veteran sees extremely heavy traffic and newspaper toilets: there’s a lot right about
many rooms in the centre of town are very the International, except the price. Offers up
noisy. Most provide detailed maps of Berastagi to 40% discount – if you can eke out one of
and the Karo Highlands. these, then you’ll earn a shiny frugal star.
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H S U MAT R A • • Pa r a p a t 387

Eating & Drinking Pematangsiantar (15,000Rp, three hours), then

The rich volcanic soils of the surrounding connect with a Parapat-bound bus (15,000Rp,
countryside supply much of North Sumatra’s 1½ hours). It’s a little bit of a pain but it gets
produce, which passes through Berastagi’s you there eventually.
colourful produce and fruit markets. Passionfruit Berastagi is the southern approach for visits
is a local speciality, as is marquisa Bandung, a to Gunung Leuser National Park. To reach
large, sweet, yellow-skinned fruit. The mar- the park, catch a bus to Kutacane (50,000Rp,
quisa asam manis, a purple-skinned fruit, five hours).
makes delicious drinks.
Most of the budget hotels have restaurants, Getting Around
but head into town for more diversity. Along Opelet to the surrounding villages leave from
Jl Veteran there’s a variety of evening food the bus terminal. They run every few minutes
stalls, as well as simple restaurants specialising between Berastagi and Kabanjahe (3500Rp),
in tionghoa (Chinese food). Because this is a the major population and transport centre of
Christian community, you’ll see a lot of babi the highlands. Local opelet are most easily
(pork) on the menu. Another local favourite waved down from the clock tower in town.
is pisang goreng (fried banana).
Café Raymond (Jl Trimurti 49; mains 8000-20,000Rp PARAPAT
h7am-midnight) Berastagi’s local bohemians %0625
hang out at Café Raymond, which serves fruit The mainland departure point for Danau
juices, beer and Western food. Toba, Parapat has everything a transiting tour­
Smiley’s Café (Jl Perwira 1; h8am-8pm; mains 10,000­ ist needs: transport, lodging and supplies.
23,000Rp) A rickety little cafe serving cheesy lasa­ The commercial sector of the town is
gne, local dishes and useful tourist advice. clumped along the Trans-Sumatran Hwy (Jl
SM Raja). Branching southwest towards the

SUMATRA
Getting There & Away pier, Jl Pulau Samosir passes most of Parapat’s
The bus terminal (Jl Veteran) is conveniently lo­ hotels. After 1km, a right fork (Jl Haranggaol)
cated near the centre of town. You can also leads to the pier, another kilometre southwest.
catch buses to Medan (8000Rp, 2½ hours) The bus terminal is 2km east of town, but most
anywhere along the main street; buses run to buses pick up and drop off passengers at ticket
and from Padang Bulan in Medan between agents along the highway or at the pier.
6am and 8pm.
To reach Danau Toba without backtracking Information
through Medan, catch an opelet to Kabanjahe There is a string of moneychangers and a war­
(3500Rp, 15 minutes) and change to a bus for tel along Jl Haranggaol.

0 500 m
PARAPAT 0 0.3 miles

A B To Medan (176km) C D
Tra 2
INFORMATION ns
–S
BRI Bank..............................1 C1 Danau Police
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Post Office...........................2 C1 Toba Station an

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1 Tobacom.............................3 C1 5 y(
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Jl I

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Charlie's Guesthouse............4 B2 Jl Pul au

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Hotel Singgalang..................5 C1
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Jl M
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TRANSPORT at
it

Buses....................................6 B2 Jl Kebudayaan
Jl Sip

Samosir Ferry Dock..............7 B2 To Bus Terminal (1km);

igo

Souvenir Bukittinggi (509km);

Shops Padang (598km)
Jl P

Jl Bukit Bansan
em
Jl Haranggaol

Wartel
ud

2 To Pulau
a
ki

Samosir/Tuk Tuk
ri k

(5km) J l Si
a
Jl Tiga Raya n Purb
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rm ul

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6
 388 N O R T H S U MAT R A • • D a n a u T o b a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

BRI bank (Jl SM Raja) Has an ATM.

Southeast Asian shoe-stringers as Haad Rin
Tobacom (Jl SM Raja 84; per hr 3500Rp; h8am-10pm)
and Kuta. It was almost overrun with tour­
Internet cafe.
ism: wild full-moon parties would kick off,
Post office (Jl SM Raja)
and travellers in beach-bum mode would get
‘stuck’ on the island for months on end. Yet
Sleeping & Eating the world seems to have forgotten about Toba
You’ll have to crash for the night if your bus all over again, and the lazy, low-key lakeside
gets in after the last boat to Samosir. Here are days have returned to the Batak people, who
a few options: warmly open their arms to the trickle of trav­
Charlie’s Guesthouse (%41277; Jl Tiga Raya 7; ellers that come.
r 50,000Rp) Beside the ferry dock, Charlie’s Expect a chorus of ‘horas’ (‘welcome’) to
is cheap and close. It’s run by a local Toba greet you at every turn, as the locals quietly
music legend. strum away the afternoon on their guitars
Hotel Singgalang (%41260; Jl SM Raja 52; r without while passing around a flagon of jungle juice –
bathroom 80,000Rp) A big Chinese-run place with the locals are proud, debaucherous Christians
basic rooms and a downstairs restaurant. who love a drink.
The highway strip (Jl SM Raja) is well For European and American missionar­
equipped to feed the passing traveller, with ies this was once the ‘heart of darkness’, and
every variety of Indonesian cuisine. the first evangelists met their makers by the
tips of spears. Good timing brought survival
Getting There & Away and fame to a German missionary named
BOAT Nommenson, whose arrival preceded a
For details of ferries to Samosir, see p394. bumper crop, which encouraged the Bataks’
King Sidabutar to incorporate the Christian
BUS faith with the community’s animist beliefs.
SUMATRA

The bus terminal (Jl SM Raja) is about 2km east of The resulting blend of traditional culture
town on the way to Bukittinggi, but is not fre­ and imported religion, observable in the Batak
quently used (so say the travel agents). Prices countryside, is the reality behind those exotic
are highly negotiable, so shop around at the tales of mannered missionaries and cannibal­
different ticket agents. istic natives.
Buses to Medan (22,000Rp, five hours)
are frequent, although services taper off Orientation
in the afternoon. There are also minibuses Danau Toba is the largest lake in Southeast
(70,000Rp) that deliver passengers to Jl SM Asia, covering a massive 1707 sq km. In
Raya in Medan. Other destinations include the middle of this huge expanse is Pulau
Sibolga (70,000Rp, six hours), Bukittinggi Samosir, a wedge-shaped island almost as
(economy/superexecutive 160,000/200,000Rp, big as Singapore that was created by an erup­
15 hours) and Padang (executive 220,000Rp, tion between 30,000 and 75,000 years ago.
17 hours). Well, Bahasa Indonesia calls it an island, but
those visiting the west of Toba will discover
Getting Around that Samosir isn’t actually an island at all. It’s
Opelet shuttle constantly between the ferry linked to the mainland by a narrow isthmus
dock and the bus terminal (2000Rp). at the town of Pangururan – and then cut
again by a canal.
DANAU TOBA Directly facing Parapat is another peninsula
%0625 / pop 517, 000 occupied by the village of Tuk Tuk, which has
Danau Toba has been part of traveller folk­ Samosir’s greatest concentration of tourist
lore for decades. This grand ocean-blue lake, facilities. Tomok, a few kilometres south of
found high up among Sumatra’s volcanic Tuk Tuk, is the main village on the east coast
peaks, is where the amiable Batak people of the island. Pangururan is the largest town
reside, largely untouched by the rest of the on the west coast.
world. The secret of this almost mythical
place was opened up to travellers by the in­ Information
trepid, and Tuk Tuk – the village on the lake’s The following facilities are all located in Tuk
inner island – became as much a highlight for Tuk (Map p391). There is a small police
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H S U MAT R A • • D a n a u T o b a 389

0 10 km
DANAU TOBA 0 6 miles

To Sondi To Medan
Berastagi (100km)
Merek (40km) Pematangsiantar
Seribudolok

Tongging
Air Terjun
Sipiso-Piso Haranggaol Pematangpurba
Sibaulangit
Tigadolok

Tigaras
Danau y
Toba Pulau w
Malau Pulau H
n
ra
Tao at
m
Su
Simanindo s–
an
Tr
Lumban See Tuk Tuk
Suhisuhi Map (p391)
Thyesza
Ambarita

Tuk Tuk
To Sidikalang Partungkaon Parapat
(10km) Danau Ajibata
Aek Natonang
Tomok
Mata Air Panas Pangururan Gunung
Bukit Pusuk Pangulubao
(1982m) Ronggurnihuta Forest Lontung Tra (2161m)
House 1 ns
–S
um
Danau Parmonangan at
Sidihoni ra
n
Tele Mogang Sitamlang Hw
Pulau y
Samosir Labuhan
Garaga

Nainggolan Air Terjun

Nanrunggu Sigura Gura

SUMATRA
an
ah
As
gai
Porsea Sun
Hutagalung Danau
Toba Silimbat
Pulau Sigaol
Sibandang

Muara Balige

Doloksanggul To Sibolga
(80km)

Siborongborong

station at the top of the road leading to the at the southern end of the peninsula. It’s
Carolina Cottages (p392). equipped to cope with cuts, bruises and other
minor problems.
BOOKSHOPS
Better load up on reading material in Toba, MONEY
because the rest of Sumatra is a desert for Be sure to change your money before you
the printed word. Penny’s Bookstore and Gokhan get to Samosir. Exchange rates at the island’s
Library have used and rental books, plus DVD hotels and moneychangers are pretty awful.
hire for rainy days.
POST
INTERNET ACCESS Samosir’s only post office is in Ambarita, but
Internet access (10,000Rp per hour) is avail­ several shops in Tuk Tuk sell stamps and have
able at many of the guest houses. postboxes.

MEDICAL SERVICES Sights

Health centre (%451075) Small 24-hour place The following sights and activities are located
close to the turn-off to Carolina Cottages, around Danau Toba (see map above).
 390 N O R T H S U MAT R A • • D a n a u T o b a lonelyplanet.com

THE BATAKS
British traveller William Marsden astonished the ‘civilised’ world in 1783 when he returned to
London with an account of a cannibalistic kingdom in the interior of Sumatra that, neverthe­
less, had a highly developed culture and a system of writing. The Bataks have been a subject
of fascination ever since.
The Bataks are a Proto-Malay people descended from Neolithic mountain tribes from northern
Thailand and Myanmar (Burma) who were driven out by migrating Mongolian and Siamese tribes.
When the Bataks arrived in Sumatra they trekked inland, making their first settlements around
Danau Toba, where the surrounding mountains provided a natural protective barrier. They lived
in virtual isolation for centuries.
The Bataks were among the most warlike peoples in Sumatra, and villages were constantly
feuding. They were so mistrustful that they did not build or maintain natural paths between
villages, or construct bridges. The practice of ritual cannibalism, involving eating the flesh of
a slain enemy or a person found guilty of a serious breach of adat (traditional law), survived
among the Toba Bataks until 1816.
Today there are more than six million Bataks, divided into six main linguistic groups, and their
lands extend 200km north and 300km south of Danau Toba.
The Bataks have long been squeezed between the Islamic strongholds of Aceh and West
Sumatra and, despite several Acehnese attempts to conquer and convert, it was the European
missionaries who finally quelled the waters with Christianity.
The majority of today’s Bataks are Protestant Christians, although many still practise elements
of traditional animist belief and ritual. The Bataks believe the banyan to be the tree of life; they
tell a legend of their omnipotent god Ompung, who created all living creatures by dislodging
decayed branches of a huge banyan into the sea.
SUMATRA

Music is a great part of Batak culture and a Batak man is never far from his guitar. The Bataks
are also famous for their powerful and emotive hymn singing. Most of their musical instruments
are similar to those found elsewhere in Indonesia – cloth-covered copper gongs in varying sizes
struck with wooden hammers; a small two-stringed violin, which makes a pure but harsh sound;
and a kind of reedy clarinet.

KING SIDABUTAR GRAVE The 300-year-old stone chairs (admission

The Batak king who adopted Christianity is 2000Rp, guides 20,000Rp; h8am-6pm) is where vil­
buried in Tomok, a village 5km southeast lage matters were discussed and wrongdoers
of Tuk Tuk. The king’s image is carved on were tried. A second set of megaliths in an
his tombstone, along with those of his body­ adjoining courtyard is where the accused were
guard and Anteng Melila Senega, the woman bound, blindfolded, sliced and rubbed with
the king is said to have loved for many years chilli and garlic before being beheaded.
without fulfilment. The tomb is also decorated Guides love to play up the story and ask
with carvings of singa, mythical creatures with for volunteers to demonstrate the process. It
grotesque three-horned heads and bulging is customary to pay a small fee for the tale, or
eyes. Next door in death is the missionary who risk meeting a savoury death (just kidding).
converted the tribe, the career equivalent of
boy-band stardom. Next in the row is an older MUSEUM HUTA BOLON SIMANINDO
Batak royal tomb, which is used as a multi­ At the northern tip of the island, in Simanindo,
lingual fertility shrine for childless couples, there’s a fine old traditional house that has
according to souvenir vendors. been restored and now functions as a museum
The tombs are 500m up a narrow lane lined (admission 30,000Rp; h10am-5pm). It was formerly
with souvenir stalls. the home of Rajah Simalungun, a Batak king,
and his 14 wives. Originally, the roof was
STONE CHAIRS decorated with 10 buffalo horns, which rep­
More traditional Batak artistry and legend is resented the 10 generations of the dynasty.
on view in Ambarita, 5km north of Tanjung The museum has a small, interesting col­
Tuk Tuk. lection of brass cooking utensils, weapons,
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H S U MAT R A • • D a n a u T o b a 391

Dutch and Chinese crockery, sculptures and SIMANINDO TO PANGURURAN

Batak carvings. The road that follows the northern rind of
Displays of traditional Batak dancing are per­ Samosir between Simanindo and the town
formed at 10.30am from Monday to Saturday of Pangururan is a scenic ride through the
if enough tourists show up. Bataks’ embrace of life and death. In the
The village of Simanindo is 15km from midst of the fertile rice fields are large multi-
Tuk Tuk and is accessible with a hired storey graves decorated with the distinctive
motorbike. Batak-style house and a simple white cross.
Reminiscent of Thai spirit houses, Batak
0 400 m
graves reflect the animist attitudes of shelter­
TUK TUK 0 0.2 miles ing the dead. Cigarettes and cakes are offered
A B to the deceased as memorials or as petitions
for favours. Typical Christian holidays, such
INFORMATION
Gokhan Library...................................1 B4 as Christmas, dictate special attention to the
Health Centre.....................................2 B5 graves.
1 Penny's Bookstore..............................3 B5

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Juwita Café........................................4 B5
Activities
Sunshine Beauty & Wellness...............5 B5 In Tuk Tuk, Sunshine Beauty & Wellness (%451
SLEEPING
108; h8am-8pm) will turn beasts into beauties
Anju Cottages....................................6 B4 with facials, after-sun treatment and tradi­
Bagus Bay Homestay..........................7 B5
Carolina Cottages...............................8 B5 tional massages (60,000Rp to 80,000Rp).
Christina's Guesthouse.......................9 A4
Harriara Guesthouse.........................10 B4
Liberta Homestay.............................11 A5 CYCLING & MOTORCYCLING
2
Merlyn Guesthouse..........................12
Samosir Cottages..............................13
B5
B4
Pulau Samosir’s sleepy roads make the is­
Tabo Cottages..................................14 B5 land perfect for exploring by motorbike or

SUMATRA
EATING
bicycle. Zipping through the scenic coun­
Bamboo Restaurant & Bar................15 A4 tryside enclosed by lush volcanic moun­
Jenny's Restaurant...........................16 B4
Rumba Pizzeria & Homestay.............17 B5
tains and the stunning lake is the highlight
of many who visit here. The rice paddies
DRINKING
Brando's Blues Bar............................18 B4 and friendly villages are cultivated around
sober Protestant-style churches and tombs
merging traditional Batak architecture and
Danau Christian crosses.
3 Toba

SWIMMING
To Ambarita (2km); Danau Toba reaches a depth of 450m in places
Thyesza (2.5km);
and is refreshingly cool. The best swimming
13
15
6
on the south coast is said to be at Carolina
18
16 Cottages, while many cottages on the north
1 coast maintain weed-free swimming.
10
Across the isthmus, just before Pangururan,
4 there are some mata air panas (hot springs)
Tanjung that the locals are extremely proud of. Most
Tuk Tuk
9 foreigners look around at the litter and decide
that the waters are too hot.

TREKKING
7 12
If you don’t fully succumb to Samosir’s anaes­
14 17 thetising atmosphere, there are a couple of
11
interesting treks across the island. The trails
5 5 aren’t well marked and can be difficult to find,
4 Police
but ask at any of the guest houses for a map.
3 2 Station In the wet season (December to March) the
To Tomok
8 steep inclines are very muddy and slippery
(2km) To Parapat (8km)
and can be quite dangerous.
 392 N O R T H S U MAT R A • • D a n a u T o b a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

The central highlands of Samosir are about tucked in between village chores: washing the
700m above the lake and on a clear day afford laundry on the rocks and collecting the news
stunning views of mist-cloaked mountains. from neighbours.
The top of the escarpment forms a large pla­ All of the places listed here are located in
teau and at its heart is a small lake, Danau Tuk Tuk (Map p391).
Sidihoni. Samosir’s vast tracts of jungle have Bagus Bay Homestay (%451 287; www.bagus-bay
long since vanished and the only forest you .page.tl; r with bathroom 75,000-150,000Rp, r without bath­
will pass through on either walk is pine, and room 20,000-30,000Rp; i) Rooms in traditional
even this is only in small areas. However, Batak houses overlook avocado trees and a
there are many interesting cinnamon, clove children’s playground. The cheaper rooms are
and coffee plantations and some beautiful more like prison cells. At night its restaurant
waterfalls. is a lively spot for young travellers.
Most people opt for the short trek from o Liberta Homestay (% 451 035; lib­
Ambarita to Pangururan. It can be done in a [email protected]; r with bathroom 40,000­
day if you’re fit and in a hurry, though it’s best 70,000Rp, r without bathroom 25,000Rp; i) This place
to stay overnight in one of the villages. The may have only limited lake views, but a chill
path starts opposite the bank in Ambarita. universe is created here by a lazy-day gar­
Keep walking straight at the escarpment and den and arty versions of traditional Batak
take the path to the right of the graveyard. houses. Crawling around the balconies and
The three-hour climb to the top is hard and shortened doors of the rooms feels like being
steep. The path then leads to Partungkaon a deck hand on a Chinese junk. The popular
village (also called Dolok); here you can stay Mr Moon is a great source of information,
at Jenny’s Guest House (r 5000Rp) or John’s Losmen including for onward travel to North Sumatra
(%0813 7678 7733; r 5000Rp). From Partungkaon, and Aceh.
it’s about five hours’ walk to Pangururan via Merlyn Guesthouse (%451057; r 30,000-35,000Rp;
SUMATRA

Danau Sidihoni. i) Situated right on the lake; rooms in tra­

The road between Tomok and Forest House ditional Batak-style houses here are as cheap
1, an interior guest house, is now paved and and charming as you’ll find. Has hot water.
many visitors steer motorbikes up the escarp­ Christina’s Guesthouse (%451 027; www.xs4all.nl/
ment to Danau Sidihoni. ~wiltheo/christina; r 30,000-45,000Rp, f 80,000Rp) Cheap
Bring along wet-weather gear and some and laid-back, Christina’s is comfortable like
snacks. There are no warung along the way a well-worn pair of jeans.
but you should be able to buy cups of coffee Anju Cottages (%451 265; r 40,000-50,000Rp) Next
or even arrange accommodation at villages door to Samosir Cottages, Anju is a peaceful
en route. option right on the waterfront.
Carolina Cottages (%415 210; www.carolinacottage
Courses laketoba.blogspot.com; d 48,000-110,000Rp, f 250,000Rp;
The clouds that come steaming in off the sur­ iW) Considered Tuk Tuk’s swankiest (a
rounding mountains often bring cloudy and relative term) sleep, Carolina is neat and or­
rainy days to Toba. A good way to pass a day derly, perhaps too much so for dishevelled
indoors is by turning your hand to Indonesian types. But its economy rooms are an eagle’s
and Batak cooking. Juwita Café (%451 217) has eyrie with a hilltop perch in a polished Batak­
four-hour cooking classes for 250,000Rp, held style building. There’s good swimming here,
in an outdoor kitchen with magnificent views with a diving board. Wi-fi available in the
of the lake. restaurant.
Samosir Cottages (%451 170; www.samosircottages
Festivals & Events .com; r 50,000-375,000Rp; i) A good choice for
The week-long Danau Toba Festival is held every travellers who want to hang out with young
year in mid-June. Canoe races are a highlight like-minded folk and boisterous young staff,
of the festival, but there are also Batak cultural plus the swimming is pretty good.
performances. Harriara Guesthouse (%451 183; r 60,000-80,000Rp)
A great spot on the lake with good swim­
Sleeping ming and a pleasant flower garden. From its
The best sleeping options are along the north sparkling rooms, you’d never guess this place
and south coasts, where little guest houses are was 22 years old.
lonelyplanet.com N O R T H S U MAT R A • • D a n a u T o b a 393

PUPPET MASTERS
A purely Batak tradition is the sigalegale puppet dance, once performed at funerals but now
more often a part of wedding ceremonies. The life-sized puppet, carved from the wood of a
banyan tree, is dressed in the traditional costume of red turban, loose shirt and blue sarong. The
sigalegale stand up on long, wooden boxes where the operator makes them dance to gamelan
(percussion orchestra) music accompanied by flute and drums.
One story of the origin of the sigalegale puppet concerns a widow who lived on Samosir. Bereft
and lonely after the death of her husband, she made a wooden image of him and whenever she
felt lonely hired a dalang (puppeteer-storyteller) to make the puppet dance and a dukun (mystic)
to communicate with the soul of her husband.
Whatever its origins, the sigalegale soon became part of Batak culture and were used at funeral
ceremonies to revive the souls of the dead and to communicate with them. Personal possessions
of the deceased were used to decorate the puppet, and the dukun would invite the deceased’s
soul to enter the wooden puppet as it danced on top of the grave.

Thyesza (%700 0443; www.flowerofsamosir.com; r Rumba Pizzeria & Homestay (mains 20,000-70,000Rp)
60,000Rp, r with hot water & breakfast 150,000Rp) Located On Saturday Rumba’s will stay open late to
out of town just past Ambarita, Thyesza is a show English Premiership football, served
great choice for those wanting some added with delicious pizza where you pick your own
peace and quiet away from Tuk Tuk’s back­ ingredients. Also has magic mushrooms (legal
packer scene. Rooms are immaculate, and in Danau Toba) on its menu.
there’s an option to stay in a Batak house.
Offers free transport from Tuk Tuk on Drinking

SUMATRA
arrival. Brando’s Blues Bar (%451084) There is a handful
Tabo Cottages (%451 318; www.tabocottages.com; of foreigner-oriented bars, such as this one in
r incl breakfast 60,000-285,000Rp, ste 350,000-650,000Rp; between the local jungle-juice cafes. Happy
iW ) The professionals’ choice, Tabo hour is until 10pm.
Cottages has a resort feel with modern rooms
set in a beautiful garden. Lots of expats from Entertainment
Jakarta and Aceh bring the family here for a On most nights, music and spirits fill the night
weekend getaway. Has a popular vegetarian air with the kind of camaraderie that only
restaurant and German bakery, and wi-fi in grows in small villages. The Toba Bataks are
the lobby. extremely musical and passionate choruses
erupt from invisible corners.
Eating Today the parties are all local – celebrating
The guest houses tend to mix eating and en­ a wedding, a new addition on a house or the
tertainment in the evening. Most restaurants return of a Toba expat. Invitations are gladly
serve the Batak speciality of barbecued carp given and should be cordially accepted.
(most from fish farms), sometimes accompa­ Bagus Bay and Samosir Cottages (see op­
nied by traditional dance performances. posite) both have traditional Batak music
The following restaurants are all located in and dance performances on Wednesday and
Tuk Tuk (Map p391). Saturday evenings at 8.15pm.
o Jenny’s Restaurant (mains 20,000­
45,000Rp) One of the busiest places on the Shopping
island and with good reason. The smoky Samosir’s souvenir shops carry a huge range
grilled fish fresh from the lake is simply the of cheap and tacky cotton T-shirts. For some­
best in town. The fruit pancake is also highly thing slightly more original, local Gayo em­
recommended. broidery is made into a range of bags, cushion
Bamboo Restaurant & Bar (mains 20,000-50,000Rp) covers and place mats.
With incredible lake views, Bamboo is a stylish Around Tuk Tuk there are numerous wood­
place to watch the sun slink away, with cosy carvers selling a variety of figures, masks, boxes
cushion seating, a down-tempo mood and a and porhalaan (traditional Batak calendars), as
reliable menu. Does good cocktails, too. well as some traditional musical instruments.
 394 N O R T H S U MAT R A • • S i b o l g a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Getting There & Away Most boats like to get in and out of Sibolga
BOAT as soon as possible, so it’s best to arrive as
Ferries between Parapat and Tuk Tuk early in the day as possible to ensure a place
(7000Rp) operate about every hour from on a boat departing that day.
8.30am to 6pm. Ferries stop at Bagus Bay (35
minutes); other stops are by request. The first Information
and last ferries from Tuk Tuk leave at about BNI bank (Jl Katamso) It is advisable to change money

7am and 4pm, respectively; check exact times here or to use the ATM, as options on Nias are limited.

with your hotel. When leaving for Parapat, Post office (Jl Tobing; h8am-6pm) Internet access

stand on your hotel jetty and wave a ferry available (per hr 5000Rp).

down. Telkom wartel (Jl A Yani 35) International phone calls

Five ferries a day shuttle vehicles and peo­ can be made from here.

ple between Ajibata, just south of Parapat,

and Tomok. There are five departures per day Dangers & Annoyances
between 7am and 9pm. The passenger fare is Dragging around surf gear can invite inflated
4000Rp. Cars cost 75,000Rp, and places can be prices: either be willing to bargain hard or
booked in advance at the Ajibata office (%41194) accept a degree of extra ‘service’.
or the Tomok office (%451185). A more serious scam involves being detained
on suspicion of carrying drugs. Some travellers
BUS have reported being searched and intimidated
See Parapat (p388), the mainland transit by groups of uniformed officials demanding
point, for information on bus travel to/from exorbitant bribes before releasing travellers.
Danau Toba. Don’t leave your bags unattended or with
On Samosir, to get to Berastagi you’ll have a ‘helpful’ guide.
to catch a bus from Tomok to Pangururan
SUMATRA

(12,000Rp, 45 minutes), from where you Sights

take another bus to Berastagi (27,000Rp, Pantai Pandan is a popular white-sand beach at
three hours). This bus goes via Sidikalang, the village of Pandan, 11km north of Sibolga.
which is also a transfer point to Kutacane and A few hundred metres further on is Pantai
Tapaktuan (on the west coast). Kalangan (admission 2000Rp). Both beaches get very
crowded at weekends, but are good places to
Getting Around pass the time while you’re waiting to catch a
Local buses serve the whole of Samosir ex­ boat from Sibolga. Opelet run to the beaches
cept Tuk Tuk, which is an inconvenience for all day (3000Rp).
those wanting to explore the island, although
the peaceful, well-maintained roads are per­ Sleeping & Eating
fect for travelling by motorbike or bicycle. If you get stuck overnight in Sibolga, try the
You can rent motorcycles in Tuk Tuk for following:
75,000Rp a day, which includes petrol and Hotel Pasar Baru (%22167; cnr Jl Imam Bonjol & Raja
a helmet. Bicycle hire costs from 25,000Rp Junjungan; d with fan 100,000Rp, d with air-con 180,000­
per day. 250,000Rp; a) A decent enough place to sleep
Minibuses run between Tomok and in a pinch.
Ambarita (3000Rp), continuing to Simanindo Hotel Wisata Indah (%23688; Jl Katamso 51; r incl
(6000Rp) and Pangururan (12,000Rp). The breakfast from 350,000Rp; as) The only upmarket
road through the neck of the peninsula is hotel in town, Wisata Indah has a pool, com­
a good spot to flag down these minibuses. fortable rooms and sea views. Nonguests can
Services dry up after 5pm. use the pool and showers for a day-use fee.
There are plenty of Padang restaurants and
SIBOLGA coffee shops directly across the street from
%0631 / pop 90,000 the harbour.
The departure point for boats to Nias, Sibolga
is a west-coast port town renowned for its Getting There & Away
touts. As tourist numbers decline, the hassles BOAT
have diminished to a fish boil of touts when Ferries to Nias leave from the harbour at the
you step off the bus or boat. end of Jl Horas. There are two port options for
lonelyplanet.com P U L AU N I A S • • H i s t o r y 395

Nias: the capital city of Gunung Sitoli, which At any one time, no more than a gaggle
is at the north of the island and a three-hour of surfers can be found paddling offshore,
bus ride from the surf break; or Teluk Dalam, where, famously, you can while away the
which is in the south and a 15-minute ride wait for your set ogling the sea turtles that
away. dance and spin under the crystal-clear water
Boats to Teluk Dalam are the obvious below.
choice but they don’t run every day. PT The locals have a reputation for being
Simeulue (%21497; Jl Sultan Bustani) runs a ferry to somewhat unfriendly. Apparently, the surf­
Teluk Dalam (11 hours). ers back in the ’70s weren’t that respectful
If you arrive in Sibolga between Monday and there’s been a surfer/local divide ever
and Saturday, catch a Gunung Sitoli–bound since. Grossly exaggerated tales of rip-offs
boat (economy/air-con/cabin 69,000/103,000/ and macho tussles don’t help the reputation of
155,000Rp, eight to 10 hours), which departs either side, especially when the reality is that
at 8pm every day but Sunday. ASDP (%21752), most folk get along just fine. But, as always,
in front of the harbour, runs a modern pas­ there are exceptions.
senger- and car-ferry. The air-con class is the The tragic 2004 tsunami and the following
best value: seats recline, the room is fairly cool aftershock, four months later, resulted in the
and generally quiet. deaths of over 600 people and the flatten­
Ferries generally leave one to two hours ing of the capital city. The recovery program
late. If you arrive in Sibolga and are told you here hasn’t been anywhere near as rapid as
have just missed the boat it is often worth in Aceh; the local frustration is evident and
going to the harbour yourself to verify this. sometimes gets taken out on tourists. Patience
Theoretically you don’t have to pay extra and understanding are absolute requirements
to carry surfboards on either service but this for all on Nias.
is not always the case.

SUMATRA
History
BUS Local legend tells it that Niassans are the
Sibolga is a bit of a backwater as far as bus descendants of six gods who came to
services are concerned, and the route is windy earth and settled in the central highlands.
and inordinately slow. The bus terminal is Anthropologists link them to just about every­
on Jl SM Raja, 2km from the harbour. You one: the Bataks of Sumatra, the Naga of Assam
can ask the bus driver to drop you off at the in India, the aborigines of Taiwan and various
harbour. A becak between the two should Dayak groups in Kalimantan.
be 5000Rp. Nias history is the stuff of campfire tales
There are frequent departures for in which locals practised headhunting and
Bukittinggi (90,000Rp, 12 hours), Padang human sacrifice long after the rest of the world
(125,000Rp, 14 hours), Medan (85,000Rp, 11 started fainting at the sight of blood.
hours) and Parapat (60,000Rp, six hours). Traditionally, Niassan villages were pre­
There are also minivan services that shuttle sided over by a village chief, who headed a
folks between Sibolga and Medan (95,000Rp) – council of elders. Beneath the aristocratic
prices are highly negotiable. upper caste were the common people, and
below them the slaves, who were often traded.
Until the first years of the 19th century, Nias’
PULAU NIAS only connection with the outside world was
through the slave trade.
The Indian Ocean roars onto Indonesia, ar­ Sometimes villages would band together
riving in one of the world’s most spectacular to form federations, which often fought each
surf breaks here on lonely Nias: a sizeable but other. Prior to the Dutch conquest and the ar­
solitary rock off the northern Sumatran coast. rival of missionaries, intervillage warfare was
Surfers have been coming here for decades for fast and furious, spurred on by the desire for
the wave on superb Sorake Bay, which has de­ revenge, slaves or human heads. Heads were
servedly kept this far-flung island on the inter­ needed for stately burials, wedding dowries
national surfing circuit. The ancient megalithic and the construction of new villages.
monuments and traditional architecture will When the people weren’t warring, they
satisfy the hunger of any culture vulture. were farming, a tradition that continues
 396 P U L AU N I A S • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com

0 20 km
PULAU NIAS 0 12 miles

Teluk
Siaba Teluk
Fofola

Tuhemberua Pantai Ladara Selat Mentawai

Gunung
Mazlaya

u
Sungai Sow
To Sibolga
Muara Indah (90km)
Lahewa Pelabuhan
Baru
Sihireo Siwahili
Pulau Mause Gunung Sitoli
u
Su Tumori No
nga

ai
iM ng Puncak Indah
uza Su Laowomaru
i Hiliduho
Ombolata Hilimbawodesolo Lapangan Terbang
(Binaka Airport)
Pulau Wunga
Binaka
Lolofitu Hiliweto Pulau Onolimbu
Oyo
ai

Pulau
ng

uo
Su

Pulau Semambawa

Ge
os Nias

Id

la
or

Mandrehe

Mo
M

INDIAN Sungai Tetehosi

Olayama

ai
gai
OCEAN

ng
Sun

Su
Tetesua
Gunung
Sirombu Lolomatua

Pulau Pulau Lahusa Tundrumbaho

Lolowa'u
SUMATRA

Asu Hinako Idanotae gai Sun sau

Su
Gomo
Tetegewo To Sibolga
(100km)
Pulau Sungai
Bawa Mosio Lahusa
Hilinawalo Su
Su

Mazingo Mezngai
nga

aya
i

See South Nias Map (p399)

Hilisimaetano Su
Eho

ng
ai Sa'
Bawomataluo
ua

Lagundri
Teluk
Pantai Dalam
Sorake

today. They cultivated yams, rice, maize and Orientation & Information
taro, despite the thick jungle, and raised pigs For a place known to the outside world, Nias
as a source of food and a symbol of wealth and is surprisingly underdeveloped and the earth­
prestige; the more pigs you had, the higher quake undid any minor steps forward. Don’t
your status in the village. Gold and copper expect rapid transport across the island, in­
work, as well as woodcarving, were important ternet connection or reliable mobile-phone
industries. coverage.
The indigenous religion was thought to Gunung Sitoli, the island’s biggest town,
have been a combination of animism and an­ and Binaka, the only airport, are both in the
cestor worship, with some Hindu influences. north. The famous surf break is in the south at
Today the dominant religions on Nias are Pantai Sorake, accessible via the port town of
Christianity and Islam, overlaid with tradi­ Teluk Dalam. Some might refer to the surfing
tional beliefs. area as Teluk Lagundri, which is the bay that
The island did not come under full Dutch the waves barrel into.
control until 1914. Today’s population of Gunung Sitoli has two working ATMs,
about 639,000 is spread through more than and there is one moneychanger in Teluk
650 villages, most inaccessible by road. Dalam.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels P U L AU N I A S • • G u n u n g S i t o l i 397

Dangers & Annoyances in the last couple of years, at a pace that’s

Chloroquine-resistant malaria has been re­ agonisingly slow for the locals.
ported on Nias, so be sure to take appropriate
precautions. Orientation & Information
The port is about 2km north of the centre of
Getting There & Away town, and the bus terminal is about 1.5km
AIR south, beyond the bridge. Businesses are clus­
Merpati (%061-736 6888; www.merpati.co.id/en) has tered around the parade ground in the centre
daily flights from Medan to Binaka airport, of town.
17km south of Gunung Sitoli. Surfboards cost Bank Sumut (Jl Hatta) MasterCard-accessible ATM.

an extra 30,000Rp. BRI bank (%21946; Jl Imam Bonjol; h8am-4pm

Mon-Fri) ATM available.

BOAT Post office (cnr Jl Gomo & Hatta) Opposite the parade

There are boats every night except Sunday ground.

from Gunung Sitoli to Sibolga. In theory, all Public hospital (%21271; Jl Cipto M Kusomo) For

services leave at 8pm, but in practice they dealing with minor emergencies.

seldom set sail before 10pm. Ticket prices are

69,000/103,000/155,000Rp for economy/air­ Sights
con/cabin. ASDP (fax 0639-21554; Jl Yos Sudarso) has an Museum Pusaka Nias (%21920; Jl Yos Sudarso 134A; ad­
office at the harbour in Gunung Sitoli. mission 2000Rp; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Tue-Sat, 2-5pm Sun)
Boats to Sibolga also leave from Teluk has a good collection of woodcarvings, stone
Dalam every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. sculptures and ceremonial objects. The garden
Boat tickets to Sibolga can be bought at PT has an interesting display of local plants and
Simeulue (%081 216 7033; Jl Saunigaho). Tickets cost herbs and some models of traditional Niassan
80,000/100,000Rp for economy/cabin class. architecture.

SUMATRA
Pelni (%0639-21846; Jl Chengkeh) has as an irregular If you’re curious about viewing more exam­
monthly boat to and from Padang. ples of Nias’ cultural heritage, see p400.

Getting Around Sleeping & Eating

Getting around Nias can be slow. In Gunung Accommodation options in Gunung Sitoli
Sitoli, the bus terminal is 1.5km south of the have not been rebuilt since the earthquake. If
centre of town; an opelet from the pier costs you need to stay on the north coast to catch
2000Rp. a departing flight, try these options outside
From Gunung Sitoli, there are minibuses the town centre.
to the southern market town of Teluk Dalam Wisma Soliga (%21815; d with fan/air-con from
(60,000Rp, three hours), which has transport 50,000/100,000Rp; a) Located 4km south of
to Lagundri, 13km away. You can also ar­ town, this is a friendly, well-managed place
range transport directly to Sorake (75,000Rp). with clean and spacious rooms.
You will probably be charged extra to take a Miga Beach Bungalows (%21460; d incl breakfast
surfboard but always whittle down the initial 200,000-300,000Rp; a) About 1.5km out of town,
quote as low as a smile can get. Services dry Miga sits right on a small beach with comfort­
up in the afternoon, so aim to leave before able rooms.
noon. Harmony Cottages (% 22157; r incl breakfast
To get to Sorake or Lagundri from Teluk 450,000Rp; a) Near Miga, a lovely jungle-
Dalam, catch a local bus from the town centre clad, family-run place with simple but clean
(5000Rp). Losmen will also hunt the town rooms.
looking for new arrivals and usually charge To get to these hotels, catch an angkot from
10,000Rp for motorbike transfer. the bus terminal (2000Rp). A becak will cost
about 15,000Rp. These hotels are 14km from
GUNUNG SITOLI the airport and can arrange transport for
%0639 30,000Rp per person.
Gunung Sitoli, on the northeastern coast of There are lots of small restaurants along the
Nias, is the island’s main town. It was badly main streets in Gunung Sitoli. Bintang Terang
damaged by the 28 March 2005 earthquake (Jl Sirao 10; mains 10,000Rp) has good seafood fried
and reconstruction only really got underway noodles.
 398 P U L AU N I A S • • Te l u k D a l a m lonelyplanet.com

EARTH SHAKER
Hardly at the centre of international events, remote Sumatra isn’t exactly renowned for its influ­
ence on the rest of the world. That is, until you tally up all the times that violent natural disasters
on the island have literally shaken the planet.
Take for instance the 1883 eruption of Krakatau, 40km off the southern Sumatra coast. This
volcanic explosion was equivalent to that from 200 megatonnes of TNT, more powerful than the
A-bomb dropped on Hiroshima. So much ash was hurled into the atmosphere that the sky was
darkened for days and global temperatures were reduced by an average of 1.2 degrees Celsius
for several years.
It is said that the blast that created Danau Toba some 100,000 years ago – before scientists
were around to measure such rumblings – would have made Krakatau look like an after-dinner
belch.
Then there was the 2004 Boxing Day earthquake, the world’s second-largest recorded earth­
quake (magnitude 9.3). The resulting tsunami hit more than a dozen countries around the Indian
Ocean, leaving more than 300,000 people dead or missing and millions displaced. The force of
the event is said to have caused the earth to wobble on its axis and shifted surrounding land­
masses southwest by up to 36m.
Few landmasses can claim to have literally moved the planet in the same way as Sumatra.

TELUK DALAM locals’ economic concerns. Many generous

%0631 people who have a relationship with Nias
This squat little port town is as loud and cha­ have sponsored the rebuilding of local houses
otic as much larger cities. You’ll need to pass and bungalows destroyed by the tsunami,
SUMATRA

through Teluk Dalam for transit connections ostensibly in exchange for free accommoda­
to the beach or to pick up provisions. tion, but more importantly as true grassroots
The post office (Jl Ahmad Yani) and Telkom war­ giving. By circumventing aid organisations,
tel (Jl Ahmad Yani) are both near the harbour. many people can see tangible results from
There are lots of Indonesian banks, but none their disaster donations. The downside is that
exchanges foreign currency. A moneychanger some locals view every new arrival here as a
is situated across the street from the BRI possible donor and the sales pitch can come
bank. from your losmen or from a stranger you
meet on the beach, blurring the line between
PANTAI SORAKE & TELUK LAGUNDRI charity and con game. Unless you have a re­
%0630 lationship with a family, it is not advisable
A fish-hook piece of land creates the per­ to expect that your donation will be spent as
fect horseshoe bay of Lagundri and the surf promised. Be wary about donating to people
break at Sorake, which is said to be the best you do not know, as the money may not be
right-hander in the world. The main surfing spent as promised.
season is June to October, and in July and Renting surf gear on the island is still a
August waves can be more than 4m high. source of unexpected headaches. Be sure
Folks refer to this area interchangeably as you pay a fair price; if it is too cheap, you’ll
Sorake or Lagundri. probably pay for it at the end with inflated
The Boxing Day tsunami destroyed many damage costs.
of the family-run guest houses and restaurants
on the beach. The businesses that could afford Activities
to rebuild are all located on Pantai Sorake, SURFING
which is considered to be more protected Surfing is to Nias what honeymooning is to
from future disasters. the Maldives. It’s the island’s tourism raison
d’être. Sorake’s famous right consistently un­
Dangers & Annoyances rolls between June and October. Access to the
Times are tough here – not that hardship is an wave is a quick paddle from the Keyhole, a
annoyance, but it creates disparity between break in the coral reef that lies between the
a tourist’s expectations for a holiday and the beach and the bay.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels P U L AU N I A S • • Pa n t a i S o r a k e & Te l u k L a g u n d r i 399

The March 2005 earthquake lifted the infrastructure elsewhere on the bay. Most
Sorake reef up by about 1m, a shift that some surfers stay on the northern end so that they
say has improved the wave. can watch the waves. Accommodation is in
Folks also claim that the off-season waves are basic beach bungalows run by local families
good for beginners, a term frequently misin­ and usually costs between 25,000Rp and
terpreted by nonsurfers. If you’ve never surfed 80,000Rp.
before, you’re better off learning on a break It is expected that you eat your meals, espe­
with a sandy beach in a less-remote place. cially dinner, at your losmen, and enquiries of
Most surfers arrive with their own gear, where you’ve eaten can range from curiosity
but you can rent equipment from Key Hole Surf to accusation. In general, the more expensive
Camp, in front of the Keyhole. the lodging, the less likely your hosts will care
There are also other breaks within the bay where you spend your money. Food is quite
under certain conditions and a few rides else­ expensive on the island, with dinner prices
where on the island. averaging between 35,000Rp to 50,000Rp for
a plate of fish or chicken.
SWIMMING The following guest houses run south to
A wide sandy beach starts just north of JJ north:
Losmen (p400) and rounds the horseshoe bay Morris Losmen and Eddy’s Losmen are next
all the way to the southeastern tip. A rind of door to one another, a few minutes’ walk from
dead coral separates Pantai Sorake from the the waves. Lisa’s, Lili’s and Peeruba Losmen are
water and swimming areas. clumped together on a sunny patch of sand
just on the edge of the action.
Sleeping & Eating Key Hole Surf Camp (from 90,000Rp), right in the
The western part of the bay, known as Pantai thick of things, charges a little more, giving
Sorake, is the primary location for lodging you the freedom to eat where you please. Next

SUMATRA
since the tsunami destroyed much of the in line is Toho Surf, which has nice beachfront

SOUTH NIAS (TELUK LEGUNDRI) Not to Scale

A To Gunung B C D
Sitoli (125km)

SLEEPING
Eddy's Losmen.............................1 A3
JJ Losmen....................................2 A3 Hilinamozaua
1 Key Hole Surf Camp.....................3 A3
Lilli's Losmen..............................(see 4) 1km Su
Hilinawalo 4km ng
Lisa's Losmen...............................4 A3 ai
Mazingo Onohondro Hilifalago Ge
Morris Losmen.............................5 A3 ma
Peeruba Losmen........................(see 4) Siwalawa 2km
3km 3km To Lahusa District (18km);
Toho Surf.....................................6 A3 1km Hilifarono Gomo (35km);
Bawogosali Gunung Sitoli (120km)
3km 3km
EATING
3.5km Hilimondregeraya
Horas Damas................................7 B3 Bawodobara
0.5km
Bawomataluo Su
nga 0.5km
Hilisimaetano Orihili iS
a'u
a
2km
2km
2
3km
3km
Hilimaenamolo
2km

3km Hilimaeta Teluk

Dalam
2.5km 4km 8km 3km
1km Lagundri
Botohili 6km
7
2 Pantai
6 Lagundri
Pantai Hilitobara
Baloho
3 3
4
1 Pantai
5 Sorake Pulau
Hotel Sorake Teluk Nuza
Beach Resort Lagundri Distances are indicated
by distance markers ( )
 400 P U L AU N I A S • • T r a d i t i o n a l V i l l a g e s lonelyplanet.com

OFFSHORE SURFING
Popular surfing destinations off Nias include the islands of Asu, Bawa and Hinako. More exposed
than Nias itself, the islands see bigger and more-consistent waves. With a left-hander at Asu and
a strong right-hander at Bawa, good surf is almost guaranteed regardless of wind direction.
The risk of malaria is high on these islands, particularly Bawa, which has a large swamp in its
interior. Visitors should take proper precautions.
Sirombu on Nias’ west coast is the jumping-off point for the islands. Ask around to see if any
public buses will be heading there; otherwise you can charter transport for about 500,000Rp.
From Sirombu there are cargo boats (80,000Rp). You can also charter boats (500,000Rp, maxi­
mum of 10 people) from local fishermen at Teluk Dalam and save yourself the hassle of getting
to Sirombu.
Bawa has several simple losmen (70,000Rp per night), including one run by an Indonesian
named German. Bring your own food.
Surfers on Nias are saying that the earthquake adversely affected the waves on Asu. Now
the ride is good only if the swell is high. Tours can be organised through Sumatran Surfariis
(www.sumatransurfariis.com).
Pulau Tello, further south towards the Mentawai Islands, is another destination that can be
reached by charter boat.

balconies. JJ Losmen, the last in the row, has the roof as the primary feature, southern
freshly varnished wooden rooms. Niassan houses are constructed using pylons
The only development on this side of the and cross-beams slotted together without the
bay is Horas Damas, an open-air restaurant with use of bindings or nails.
SUMATRA

a view of the deep blue.

Gomo & Around
TRADITIONAL VILLAGES The villages around Gomo, in the central
For hundreds of years, Nias residents built highlands, contain some of the island’s best
elaborate villages around cobble-stoned examples of stone carvings and menhirs (sin­
streets lined with rows of shiplike wooden gle standing stones), some thought to be 3000
houses. The traditional homes were balanced years old. Such examples can be found in the
on tall wooden pylons and topped by a steep, village of Tundrumbaho, 5km from Gomo,
thatched roof. Some say the boat motif was Lahusa Idanotae, halfway between Gomo and
inspired by Dutch spice ships. Constructed Tundrumbaho, and at Tetegewo, 7km south
from local teak and held together with hand- of Gomo.
hewn wooden pegs, the houses are adorned Unfortunately, Gomo is virtually inaccessi­
with symbolic wooden carvings. The technol­ ble. Getting to Tundrumbaho involves a tough
ogy of traditional architecture proved quite two-hour uphill slog through the steamy jun­
absorbent and these structures fared better gle. From Lagundri, negotiate with the losmen
in the 2005 earthquake than modern concrete owners for someone to take you there and
buildings. back by motorcycle, or catch a bus to Lahusa
Reflecting the island’s defensive strate­ and then hitch a ride. Getting to Tetegewo
gies, villages were typically built on high is possible, but it’s a long trip – it’s probably
ground reached by dozens of stone steps. A only worthwhile if you’re interested in this
stone wall for protection usually encircled type of architecture.
the village. Stone was also used for carved
bathing pools, staircases, benches, chairs and Hilinawalo Mazingo
memorials. One of only five such surviving buildings on
Within the island there is geographic di­ the island, the Omo Hada (Chieftain’s House)
versity in the traditional house building. In is situated in the prestigious ‘upstream’ di­
northern Nias, homes are freestanding, ob­ rection of the remote village, garnering the
long structures on stilts, while in the south first rays of morning light. It still serves its
they are built shoulder to shoulder on either traditional purpose as a meeting hall for
side of a long, paved courtyard. Emphasising seven neighbouring villages and is currently
lonelyplanet.com A C E H 401

undergoing restoration work by a local con­ Botohili & Hilimaeta

servation group, North Sumatra Heritage, Botohili is a small village on the hillside above
with funding from World Monuments Fund the peninsula of Pantai Lagundri. It has two
and corporate sponsors. In order to repair rows of traditional houses, with a number of
damages from age and climate, villagers have new houses breaking up the skyline. The re­
been trained in traditional carpentry skills, mains of the original entrance, stone chairs and
in turn preserving crafts that were nearing paving can still be seen.
extinction. Hilimaeta is similar to Botohili and is also
The area is known as Eri Mazino and is within easy walking distance of Lagundri.
18km from Lagundri between Teluk Dalam The lompat batu pylon can still be seen here
and Lahusa district. You can take a public and there are a number of stone monuments,
bus to Simpang Oge and then hire an ojek including a 2m-high stone penis. A long
(motorcycle that takes passengers) from there pathway of stone steps leads uphill to the
or arrange transport directly from Lagundri. village.
The last 8km of the trip is arduous due to poor
road conditions.

Bawomataluo
ACEH
This is the most famous, and the most ac­ Over the years, this far-flung corner of the
cessible, of the southern villages. It is also Indonesian archipelago has grabbed head­
the setting for lompat batu (stone jumping), lines for all the wrong reasons. Earthquakes,
featured on Indonesia’s 1000Rp note. tsunamis, civil war and sharia law are
Bawomataluo (Sun Hill) is perched on a the main associations people have with
hill about 400m above sea level. The final Sumatra’s most northern state. The recon­
approach is up 88 steep stone steps. Houses struction from the Boxing Day tsunami that

SUMATRA
are arranged along two main stone-paved put this place on television screens around
avenues that meet opposite the impressive the world is near completion. However, the
chief’s house, which is thought to be both the social wounds incurred by the natural dis­
oldest and largest on Nias. Outside are stone aster and previous civil war will take much
tables where dead bodies were once left to longer to heal. Post-tsunami Aceh is still
decay. tender, guns have been laid down (for now),
Although Bawomataluo is worth exploring, a degree of autonomy has been granted and
tourism is in full swing here, with lots of eager there is now an air of new beginnings across
knick-knack sellers. the province.
There are also cultural displays of war For the visitor, politics and disasters are
dances, traditionally performed by young, somewhat of a smokescreen. Intrepid travel­
single males, and stone jumping. The latter was lers to the region are unearthing one of the few
once a form of war training; the jumpers had remaining undiscovered gems of Southeast
to leap over a 1.8m-high stone wall tradition­
ally topped with pointed sticks. These days
the sticks are left off – and the motivation TRAVELLING TO ACEH
is financial. No special permit or permission is required
From Bawomataluo, you can see the to visit Aceh province. At one time foreign
rooftops of nearby Orihili. A stone staircase visitors were limited but since the 2004 tsu­
and a trail lead downhill to the village. nami these restrictions have been eased at
Bawomataluo is 15km from Teluk Dalam the entry points to Aceh. Confusion does
and is accessible by public bus (5000Rp). arise if you enquire with Indonesian em­
bassies or outside of the island of Sumatra,
Hilisimaetano as the Indonesian government has not yet
There are more than 100 traditional houses in disseminated an official decision on the
this large village, 16km northwest of Teluk matter. At the time of research a visa on
Dalam. Stone jumping and traditional dancing arrival (VOA) at Banda Aceh airport was still
are performed here during special events. not possible, though it was said to be very
Hilisimaetano can be reached by public trans­ likely in the near future.
port from Teluk Dalam (5000Rp).
 �
402 A C E H • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com

0 100 km
ACEH 0 60 miles

Pulau Weh Pulau

Marine Weh
Sabang
National Park
ANDAMAN
Pulau SEA
Breueh Ujung Bate
Banda Aceh Krueng Raya
Uleh-leh
Lhoknga Saree
Lampu'uk Sigli
Gunung
Seulawah Lammeula
(1806m) Lhokseumawe
Pidie Bireuen Tra
Gunung ns
– Su
Tangse Bateekeubeue ma
(2840m) tra
n
Lhok Kruet Gunung Hw
Geureundong y
Geumpang
Lhok Geulumpang (2855m) Peureulak

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Simpang Balik
Calang
Takengon Danau Laut
Tawar
ACEH Langsa
Uwak Gunung
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ay

Lhok Bubon Lembu

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gh
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Meulaboh ds
Angusan
Gunung Leuser Pangkalanbrandan

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Blangkejeran Gunung
National Park Gunung Bendahara
Kedah
Kemiri (3012m)
Gunung (3314m)
Gumpang
Leuser Gunung
Susoh (3404m) Ketambe Perkinson
(2828m)
Pantai Labuhan Haji Tanah Merah
SUMATRA

Tu'i Lhok Bukit Lawang Medan

Kutacane
Gunung
Su

INDIAN Polonia
ng

Pantai Simpali Gunung

Engkran Airport
ai

OCEAN Air Dingin (3270m) Sinabung

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ue

Tapaktuan Muarasitulan Berastagi

Sung
t

Sungai
Lawa Mamas Kabanjahe
ai Ala

Kandang
NORTH
Teluk Jamin SUMATRA
s

Pulau Bakongan
Simeulue Gelombang Danau
Toba
Rundeng Sidikalang
Pulau
Subulus Samosir
Salem
Sinabang s
Ala
ai
Pulau Balai ng
Banyak Su
Islands Singkil
To Pulau
Pulau Tuangku Palembak Besar

Asia. Rich, animal-filled jungle, misty coffee History

plantations and endless swaths of empty beach In the days of sailing ships, Aceh competed
lick the coastline, not to mention the rainbow with Melaka on the Malay Peninsula for con-
of pristine coral beneath the sea. The tourist trol of the important spice-trade route. Aceh
infrastructure isn’t great, with bungalows and was also Islam’s entry to the archipelago. The
guest houses making it up as they go along, capital, Banda Aceh, was an important centre
for the most part. Western comforts aren’t of Islamic learning and a gateway for Muslims
exactly the norm. But this is the ‘I was there making the pilgrimage to Mecca.
before it was discovered’ destination of the The influx of traders and immigrants and
moment, and a few sacrificed luxuries are the province’s strategic position contributed
the pay-off. to Aceh’s wealth and importance. The main
Through all of the disagreements and tur­ exports were pepper and gold; others in-
moil from recent events here, the locals have cluded ivory, tin, tortoiseshell, camphor,
largely ignored the goldmine of tourism on aloe wood, sandalwood and spices. Though
which the state stands, and very little is being Aceh’s power began to decline towards
done to encourage tourists to come…leaving the end of the 17th century, the province
it ripe and ready for unbridled discovery. remained independent of the Dutch until
lonelyplanet.com A C E H • • H i s t o r y 403

war was declared in 1871. It was 35 years give Aceh ‘special district’ status, granting a
before the fighting stopped and the last high degree of autonomy in religious, cultural
of the sultans, Tuanku Muhamat Dawot, and educational matters. Despite this special
surrendered. status the government strengthened its grip
In 1951 the Indonesian government in­ on Aceh’s huge natural-gas reserves.
corporated Aceh’s territory into the province In December 1976 Gerakan Aceh Merdeka
of North Sumatra. The prominent Islamic (GAM; Free Aceh Movement) was formed
Party was angered at being lumped together and began fighting for independence. Fighting
with the Christian Bataks, and proclaimed was limited in the early years of the struggle,
Aceh an independent Islamic Republic in but by 1989 GAM had gathered strength and
September 1953. Prolonged conflict ensued, launched a renewed attack on the Indonesian
and in 1959 the government was forced to government.

SHARIA LAW
Aceh considers itself the home and origin of Islam in Southeast Asia, with Islamic roots dating as
far back as the 13th century. It prides itself on being the most strictly Islamic state in Indonesia.
Since it was granted ‘special autonomy’ in 2002, Aceh has the power to apply sharia law to
Islamic people, which contrasts with the traditionally moderate and secular attitude of the rest of
Indonesia. A bill was passed on 14 September 2009, making sharia law official in Aceh. The most
controversial amendment was the introduction of capital punishment for committing adultery, as
well as a law prohibiting homosexuality. It’s important to be informed and understand as much
as possible about the local custom and laws that are exclusive to this unique state.
The main laws include:
 Muslims (male and female) must wear clothing in line with Islamic teaching

SUMATRA
 the consumption, production and sale of alcohol is prohibited
 gambling is prohibited
 khalwat (proximity, where intimate contact is possible, between a male and female who have
no marriage or kin relationship) is prohibited
 wealthy Muslims must pay Zakat (alms for the poor) to the Islamic treasury
 unmarried couples committing adultery can be sentenced to 100 lashings
 married people committing adultery can be sentenced to death by stoning
 homosexuality is prohibited.

So what does this mean for you? As far as Westerners are concerned the law is somewhat un­
clear, and it is generally up to the interpretation of the sharia police. Initially, Westerners and
non-Muslims had been excused from observing most of the laws, but since 2006 the laws have
become more applicable to everyone, especially if a Westerner is obstructing a Muslim from
observing a law. For example, there have been instances of Western men being arrested for
socialising with Muslim women (on a positive note, this means that this is one of the few parts
of Southeast Asia where sleazy expats are nonexistent). Generally, Westerners are left to get
on with it and tourist and aid-worker hang-outs tend to serve beer without recriminations, but
technically it’s still illegal and comes with the punishment of 40 lashes.
Under Acehnese law, punishments vary from a small fine to four-year sentences or even
the death penalty, depending on the crime. Public (sometimes televised) canings attended by
thousands of onlookers have drawn criticism from across the nation and within Aceh itself,
as people fear that law makers are veering towards a more extreme state. Many of the objec­
tions from within Aceh come from women, some of whom claim that the manner in which
the laws and punishments are enacted by the sharia police is sexist and unjust. However,
international accusations that Aceh is a ‘mini-Taliban’ state are also gross exaggerations of
the truth. Basically as long as visitors to the region act in a respectful fashion, you’ll have no
problems whatsoever.
 404 A C E H • • B a n d a A c e h lonelyplanet.com

By 1990 the area had been designated a Day tsunami; looking at the reconstructed
‘special combat zone’ and eight years of near- city today it’s impossible to reconcile it with
military rule followed. Amnesty International the distraught images of 2004. In Banda Aceh
has reported years of human rights abuses alone, 61,000 people were killed and develop­
perpetrated during this time. In the following ment outside of the city centre was reduced
years the army launched further attacks, while to a wasteland in a matter of a few hours.
GAM intimidated whole villages into giving Today you’d hardly guess that anything had
support to the rebel forces. Deaths, tortures, happened.
disappearances and arbitrary arrests occurred For a few years the city was awash with
on a daily basis, with each side blaming the aid workers, who not only helped rebuild the
other. The ordinary people of Aceh were the pretty town you’ll find today but also kick-
real losers: tens of thousands of them were started the economy to catering to nongovern­
displaced and living in fear of both sides. mental organisations (NGOs). Prices soared
At the turn of the millennium, several steps as foreign expense accounts paid for taxis,
towards peace were made: a brief ceasefire was steak dinners and overpriced hotel rooms.
declared in 2000, and in 2002 Jakarta granted There is certainly a lull in the city now that
a ‘special autonomy’ law allowing the prov­ the NGOs have gone, which, positively, means
ince to keep up to 70% of oil and gas revenues the city’s infrastructure is well recovered, but
and, controversially, implement sharia law. sadly the NGO-inflated miniboom is over.
Peace talks were also initiated for the first time However, now that Aceh has greater control
since the conflict began, and progressed for over its resources, in particular oil, the town
a year and a half before crumbling. For two is relatively affluent and the streets, the homes
years afterwards, all of the progress toward and especially the mosques are well main­
normality was quickly reversed. Martial law tained and looked after.
was declared in 2003, paving the way for a Banda Aceh is a fiercely religious city and
SUMATRA

full-scale military assault on the separatists the ornate mosques are at the centre of daily
– the biggest military operation in Indonesia life. In this devoutly Muslim city, religion and
since the 1975 invasion of East Timor. respect are everything. The hassles are few
The 2004 tsunami provided the necessary and the people are easygoing and extremely
counterpoint to open up the sealed province hospitable to visitors (Muhammad was a trav­
to relief organisations and to renew peace eller, after all).
talks between Jakarta and the rebels. On 15
August 2005, a peace accord was signed in Orientation
Helsinki and many of the important steps of Banda Aceh is split in two by Sungai Krueng
the agreement have been met: GAM rebels Aceh. In the southern part of the city is its
successfully surrendered their weapons and best-known landmark, the Mesjid Raya
the Indonesian troops have withdrawn from Baiturrahman. Behind the mosque is the
the province. Although optimism for a stable huge Pasar Aceh Central (central market),
Aceh is tangible, some fear that the biggest ob­ and adjoining the market is the main opelet
stacle to a lasting peace is steering the former terminal.
GAM rebels into lives as productive citizens The residential neighbourhood in the
rather than low-level criminals. It remains southeast corner is referred to as Geuceu
very much a ‘watch this space’ region. Komplek, and is home to some of the Banda
Aceh’s politicians and wealthy inhabitants.
BANDA ACEH North of the river is the city centre, where
%0651 / pop 210,000 much of the rebuilding was concentrated and
Indonesian cities are rarely coupled with new homes now stand. The commercial spine
pleasant descriptions, but Banda Aceh breaks is Jl Panglima Polem.
the mould. The sleepy provincial capital is
an extremely pleasant spot to spend a few Information
days. The village-like atmosphere and dusty, INTERNET ACCESS & POST
unobtrusive streets make for laid-back, easily Country Steakhouse (off Jl Sri Ratu Safiatuddin;
explored town filled with cheery faces. The hnoon-10pm) This restaurant has free wi-fi access for
proud folk rarely betray the tragedy that they laptops.
must have experienced during the Boxing Jambo Internet (Jl Panglima Polem 2; h24hr)
 lonelyplanet.com A C E H • • B a n d a A c e h 405

BANDA ACEH Not to Scale

A B C D

Jl Cut Nyak
24
To Boat in House (2km);

Jl Pan
Lampulo (2km)
ng kol INFORMATION

Jl Kartini
l To

glima
26 J Bank Danamon...........................1 B1

Jl SM Raja
BCA Bank...................................2 C1

Dhien
Jl Cut Meutia
To Rumah Sakit

Polem
1 Dr Zainal Abidin (1km); BII Bank...................................(see 2)
21
Solong Café (25km); Country Steakhouse...............(see 19)
17 war Krueng Raya (33km)
16 Jl Khairil An Jambo Internet..........................3 C2
15

Jl Ba
14 Pante Pirak Net .........................4 C2
eeh Post Office.................................5 D2

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7
ati

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kti
B
Jl Merdu

23 Jl S
ri R 1 18 2 28 a ud Regional Tourist Office..............6 C2
atu Jl D
Saf 13 Telkom Wartel........................... 7 C1
iatu 8
dd 3 A rief Jl C
hik Wartel........................................8 B1
19 in yak Ku
Jl N 6 ta
Ka
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Jl H B
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Jl D Ah
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Jl T
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Jl P

Central 29
25
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Gunongan.................................9 A4
t Ali

Jl Alauddin Ma

Sun
n

gai Kherkhof..................................10 A4
Dahla

Jl Cu

30 11 Kru
eng Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman.......11 A2
Jl Mo Ace Museum Negeri Banda Aceh....12 B4
hamm h
Jl KH

ed Ja Rumah Aceh..........................(see 12)

m
hmudsyah

To Lambaro (10km);
SLEEPING

��
Jl Imam Airport (16km);
Bonjol Medan (560km) Hotel 61...................................13 C1
Hotel Medan............................14 B1
Jl Cik Ditiro Hotel Palembang......................15 B1
ahim III

Hotel Prapat.............................16 B1
3 Water
Tower Hotel Wisata.............................17 B1
ba
Jl Majid Ibr

Sulthan Hotel ...........................18 B1

Jl Mohammad Haran
Kota

SUMATRA
Jl Ujong Rim

EATING
Jl Balai

27
Country Steakhouse.................19 B2

��
Pante Pirak Supermarket..........20 B2
To Power-Generator
Vessel (4km); Pasar Malam Rek......................21 B1

������
Uleh-leh (5km) PP Cafe & Restaurant...............22 C2
12 Rumah Makan Asia..................23 A1

������
Jl Sultan
Iskandar
Tropicana Seafood....................24 B1
Muda Clock Tower
Governor's
DRINKING

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House (Pendopo)
Taman Chek Yoke...............................25 B2

������
Putroe Phang
4 Dutch TRANSPORT
ar

Cemetery BP Travel..................................26 B1
Um

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(Kherkhof)
Buses to Medan.......................27 C3
u
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9
10 Garuda.....................................28 C1
Te

Jl Nyak Adam Kamil Ill

Jl

Labi-Labi Terminal...................29 B2
To Lhok Nga (19km); Public Buses.............................30 A2
Meulaboh (247km)

Pante Pirak Net (Jl Dhimurthala 19; h9am-10pm)

TELEPHONE
Next door to PP Cafe & Restaurant.
Telkom wartel (Jl Daud Beureeh) Home Country Direct

Post office (%29487; Jl Bendahara 33; h8am­ phone.

4pm Mon-Fri) A short walk from the centre; also has

Wartel (Jl Panglima Polem 11)

internet.

TOURIST INFORMATION
MEDICAL SERVICES Regional tourist office (Dinas Parawisata; %23692;
Rumah Sakit Dr Zainal Abidin (%26090, 22606; Jl Jl Chik Kuta Karang 3) On the 1st level of a government
Nyak Arief ) One of the best hospitals in town. building; the staff are exceptionally friendly and have free
copies of an excellent guidebook to the province.
MONEY
There are lots of ATMs around town, mainly Sights & Activities
on Jl Panglima Polem and on Jl Sri Ratu MESJID RAYA BAITURRAHMAN
Safiatuddin. With its brilliant white walls and liquorice-black
BCA bank (Jl Panglima Polem)
domes, the Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman (admission by
BII bank (Jl Panglima Polem)
donation, headscarf required for women; h7-11am & 1.30-4pm)
Bank Danamon (Jl Sri Ratu Safiatuddin)
is a dazzling sight on a sunny day. The first
 406 A C E H • • B a n d a A c e h lonelyplanet.com

section of the mosque was built by the Dutch In the same compound as the museum
in 1879 as a conciliatory gesture towards the is the Rumah Aceh – a fine example of tradi­
Acehnese after the original one burnt down. tional Acehnese architecture, built without
Two more domes – one on either side of the nails and held together with cord and pegs.
first – were added by the Dutch in 1936 and It contains more Acehnese artefacts and war
another two by the Indonesian government in memorabilia.
1957. The mosque survived intact after the 2004
earthquake and tsunami, a sign interpreted by MARKETS
many residents as direct intervention by the Market lovers will enjoy the bustle at the col­
Divine. During this time the mosque served ourful Pasar Aceh Central, which is just north
as an unofficial crisis centre for survivors, and of the Mesjid Raya between Jl Chik Pante
bodies awaiting identification were laid on the Kulu and Jl Diponegoro. Also, the goods at
public square in front of the mosque. The best Pasar Ikan (fish market; Jl SM Raja) define freshness:
time to visit the mosque is during Friday after­ boats ease into the river and unload their car­
noon prayers, when the entire building and yard goes of shark, tuna and prawns right onto the
are filled with people. vendor carts.

GUNONGAN & KHERKHOF TSUNAMI LANDMARKS

All that remains today of Aceh’s powerful It doesn’t make for sunny postcard fodder, but
sultanates are on view at Gunongan (Jl Teuku Umar; seeing the place with your own eyes allows for
h8am-6pm). Built by Sultan Iskandar Muda (r personal and sacred memorials, and helps fee­
1607–36) as a gift for his Malay princess wife, ble imaginations understand the scale of the
it was intended as a private playground and disaster. Many of the most moving images of
bathing place. The building consists of a series the tsunami will be erased in the coming years:
of frosty peaks with narrow stairways and a the freighter ships deposited miles inland will
SUMATRA

walkway leading to ridges, which represent the be disassembled, the empty landscape will
hills of the princess’ native land. Ask around be rebuilt, the amputated families will form
for someone to unlock the gate for you. new connections. But what will remain is an
Directly across from the Gunongan is a low ancient human custom: housing the dead so
vaulted gate, in the traditional Pintu Aceh the living can remember.
style, which gave access to the sultan’s palace – The most famous of the tsunami sights are
supposedly for the use of royalty only. the boat in the house in Lampulo, and the 2500­
To reach Gunongan, take a labi labi (opelet) tonne power-generator vessel that was carried
bound for Jl Kota Alam (3000Rp). 4km inland by a wave. At the time of research
Directly across the road from the Gunongan there were plans to open a Tsunami Museum
is the Kherkhof (Dutch Cemetery; Jl Teuku Umar; h8am­ in 2010.
6pm), the last resting place of more than 2000 There are four mass graves in and around
Dutch and Indonesian soldiers who died Banda Aceh where the dead in the province
fighting the Acehnese. The entrance is about were buried. The largest site is Lambaro, lo­
250m from the clock tower on the road to cated on the road to the airport, where 46,000
Uleh-leh. Tablets set into the walls by the en­ unidentified bodies were buried. Other grave
trance gate are inscribed with the names of sites include Meuraxa, Lhok Nga and Darusalam,
the dead soldiers. The cemetery suffered some where another 54,000 bodies were interred.
flooding from the tsunami. Families who wish to mourn the loss of unlo­
To reach the Kherkhof take labi labi 9 or 10. cated relatives choose one of the mass graves
based on possible geographic proximity; they
MUSEUM NEGERI BANDA ACEH have no other evidence of where to lay their
The Museum Negeri Banda Aceh (%23144; Jl Alauddin prayers.
Mahmudsyah 12; admission 1000Rp; h8.00am-noon & 2­
4pm Tue-Sun) has displays of Acehnese weaponry, VOLUNTEERING OPPORTUNITIES
household furnishings, ceremonial costumes, More than 1000 schools in Aceh were de­
everyday clothing, gold jewellery, calligra­ stroyed or damaged by the tsunami. Libraries
phy and some magnificently carved recong were ruined, sports equipment swept out to
(Acehnese daggers) and swords. It also has a sea, computer equipment lost. And then
display of a baby two-headed buffalo. there’s the human toll: some estimates claim
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A C E H • • B a n d a A c e h 407

TSUNAMI RELIEF
The December 26 2004 tsunami killed more than 170,000 people in Aceh and destroyed infra­
structure along 800km of coastline.
The tsunami was an unprecedented disaster and in Aceh alone even a decades-long separatist
movement couldn’t achieve the level of destruction that the ocean accomplished in a few hours.
According to figures from the UN Development Program (UNDP), Aceh was in a state of emergency
from January to May 2005. During that time, basic shelter and nutrition were provided, families
reunited, dead bodies were recovered and buried, 70,000 cu metres of debris was removed and
used in reconstruction efforts, and possible epidemics of water-borne diseases were averted.
Since then, rebuilding of homes and infrastructure has been slow, but according to the BRR
(Aceh-Nias Rehabilitation and Reconstruction Agency) the majority of reconstruction has been
completed. After four years of overseeing the massive task of rebuilding the earthquake- and
tsunami-ravaged Aceh province, BRR officially closed down in April 2009.
BRR’s chairman, Kuntoro Mangkusubroto, said during the agency’s final press conference here
that through cooperation with regional governments, donor countries, UN agencies and NGOs,
and a US$3.25 billion budget, BBR had managed to rebuild Aceh as planned.
‘The target was achieved. All numbers in the blueprint were achieved’, he said. ‘In the first
blueprint, we were supposed to build 90,000 houses. But as of today, 140,304 housing units
have already been constructed’.
In April 2009 the BRR stated that some 400 tsunami victim families were still living in temporary
shelters. According to BRR many contractors had run away with the construction funds, forcing
the reconstruction and rehousing to take much longer than initially anticipated.
During its four-year mandate, BRR built 13 airports and airstrips, 23 seaports, 1115 medical
facilities, 1759 schools, 3696km of road, 363 bridges and 996 government buildings. It also as­
sisted 195,726 small- and medium-sized enterprises, trained 155,182 workers and 39,663 teachers,

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and rehabilitated 1012.4 sq km of farmland.
There is an air of bitterness at the pace and standard of the disaster relief. Many of the locals
claim that the homes have been built poorly and are only partly finished, many without electric­
ity or running water.
The reality is that, while slow, the reconstruction is impressive. Most visitors to Aceh will
probably agree that what’s been done is quite remarkable, despite what some may say, and as
Joachim Von Amsberg – the country director for the World Bank, which helped fund and su­
pervise reconstruction efforts – stated in 2009, ‘It’s easy to make a big story out of the failures,
but this actually is a success story. Aceh and Nias have been built back, and in some cases have
been built back better’.

that 2500 teachers were killed and a third of Sleeping

the tsunami deaths were children. Rebuilding The influx of international aid workers jacked
lives in Aceh also means rebuilding educa­ up the prices but not the standards of the few
tional facilities. hotels left in town since the tsunami; there’s
Forum Bangum Aceh (FBA; %45204; www.forum very little for budget travellers.
bangunaceh.org) is the leading local NGO formed Hotel Palembang (%22044; Jl Khairil Anwar 49; r with
by Aceh residents to work directly and effec­ fan 70,000-100,000Rp, with air-con 120,000Rp; a) A basic
tively with affected communities. The group place with dark, uninspiring rooms.
has two ongoing projects: microeconomic Hotel Prapat (%22159; Jl Ahmad Yani 19; d with fan/air­
packages to get businesses up and running, con 100,000/200,000Rp; a) One of the more afforda­
and educational outreach. To volunteer here ble spots. From the outside Prapat has the feel of
you’ll need to get an application form from a cheap, run-down motel, but rooms are good
the website, and positions are subject to value with Western toilet and clean sheets.
availability. Because FBA is a small organi­ Hotel Wisata (%21834; Jl Ahmad Yani 19-20; r 125,000­
sation, it is more responsive to short-term 450,000Rp; i) With a streamlined art-deco fa­
volunteers than the larger NGOs. Whatever cade, Wisata has decent clean rooms with tiled
your area of expertise, FBA will find a place floors and ultrasoft beds. Some rooms have
for you. ornate Victorian-style plaster ceilings.
 408 A C E H • • B a n d a A c e h Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

LOCAL VOICE: RAHMADHANI SULAIMAN (DANNY), TSUNAMI SURVIVOR

Rahmadhani Sulaiman (aka Danny) is Aceh’s tourism promotion director, and a survivor of the
2004 Boxing Day tsunami.
What were you doing on the day the tsunami hit Aceh? My family and I were enjoying the
sunshine together on a beautiful Sunday morning. We couldn’t expect this to happen. At around
8am people start running, screaming ‘Water come! Water come!’. We started running even though
we couldn’t see water. Many locals rushed to the higher elevation of the hills. From here we
could see the water and that something was very wrong with the sea, though we didn’t realise
it was a tsunami. After a while people slowly came down from the mountains, and it’s then we
saw bodies and debris everywhere. I will never forget people screaming, crying and running
without clear direction. It was a dreadful situation. Rumours were that entire islands were wiped
out. There was no power, and no real information. Everything was so quiet except for crying.
Life suddenly became so empty and frustrating. I and neighbours were encouraged to locate
the injured people, and dead bodies to take them to safe places to be buried later. It was so
frightening for me, but they are my people.
What happened in the ensuing days? Sanitation became very bad. Everyone was haunted with
the image of the devastating tsunami. We could only try to survive and depend on each other.
We had a little remaining food, but when finished – there was no more. People were searching
for food, and there was high competition – lots of demand and little supply. After day three of
tsunami, I tried to seek my family in Banda Aceh, so I borrowed my friend’s motorcycle. I saw
thousands of dead bodies in the city. On the left, in the centre, and the right. Everywhere was
horrible. My wife and young sons were with me. They were not prepared for the sight of so
many dead bodies. Not to mention the smell. Things that were supposed to be in the sea were
in the street! We couldn’t believe it to see ships in the roofs of houses and in hotel car parks.
SUMATRA

Finally, after a long time, we found our family member stranded in a safe place. It was such an
emotional, important meeting.
Life wasn’t so healthy, so we tried to escape the house because things were getting unbear­
able, so we moved to a friend’s house in Lambaro (15km from Banda Aceh), though there it
was the same situation.
How about the clean up? Due to this tragedy, maybe the worst natural disaster ever, Aceh
received unprecedented attention from the international community. Today Aceh has made
significant progress. People’s lives are improving and they’re better off than they were before
economically and socio-culturally. People of Aceh are very thankful for everyone’s kind help and
to people who kindly donated money in order to build Aceh back better.

Hotel Medan (%21501; fax 23514; Jl Ahmad Yani 15; Eating

r 175,000, r incl breakfast 200,000-350,000Rp; aiW) The square at the junction of Jl Ahmad Yani
The business-style rooms are spotless and and Jl Khairil Anwar is usually the setting for
comfortable, with cable TV; wi-fi is available the Pasar Malam Rek, Banda Aceh’s lively night
in the lobby. Reception has a photograph from food market. Many night food stalls are found
the tsunami of a huge boat marooned in the on JL SM Raja.
hotel’s carpark. Pante Pirak supermarket (Jl Pante Pirak; huntil
Hotel 61 (%638866; [email protected]; 10pm) Good for stocking up on supplies or just
Jl Panglima Polem 28; r incl breakfast 280,000-500,000Rp; watching the buying habits of Banda Aceh’s
aW) Here you’ll find modern rooms that middle class.
are much closer to international standards Rumah Makan Asia (Jl Cut Meutia 37/39; mains
than others in town. Includes free transport 10,000Rp) Aceh’s version of masakan Padang
from airport. (Padang dish) has an array of zesty seafood
Sulthan Hotel (%22469; Jl Sultan 1; r incl breakfast dishes that waiters plonk on to your table,
200,000-834,000Rp, ste 1,246,000; aW) When the such as ikan panggang (baked fish).
NGOs hit town, this was one of the only func­ PP Cafe & Restaurant (Jl H Dhimurthala 31; mains
tional hotels. With its large modern rooms, it’s 12,000Rp; aW) Popular with local teenagers,
been packed out ever since. PP’s is a great place to escape the heat for a
lonelyplanet.com A C E H • • Pu l a u W e h 409

cold drink, a good selection of Indonesian suburb, now an eerie, empty landscape. See
food and some European dishes. Pulau Weh for boat schedules and fare infor­
Country Steakhouse (%24213; off Jl Sri Ratu mation (p410).
Safiatuddin 45B; mains 15,000-100,000Rp; hnoon-10pm;
aW) Well hidden down an alley, this wood- BUS
panelled restaurant was set up to cater for South of the city centre you’ll find the new
the international aid workers; now it’s often Terminal Bus Bathoh (Jl Mohammed Hasan), which
empty. Serves New Zealand steaks, snapper has numerous buses to Medan. Economy
and chips and other Western dishes. Also buses (100,000Rp, 14 hours) depart at 4pm,
has beer and Australian red wine, and a TV while air-con buses leave all day (120,000Rp,
showing BBC. 11½ hours). The other option are the non­
Tropicana Seafood (Jl SM Raja; mains from 20,000Rp; stop buses (200,000Rp, 10 hours) departing at
a) Chinese restaurant serving delicious sea­ 8.30pm and 9pm. Other bus services are likely
food dishes and cold Bintang. Vegetarians to depart from here in the future.
beware: even the ‘mixed vegetables’ contains The west-coast road from Banda Aceh to
chicken and prawns. Meulaboh was destroyed by the 2004 tsunami,
but has since been rebuilt (for the most part).
Drinking Public buses depart from the land-bus ter­
Because of sharia law, alcohol is not available minal behind the mosque on Jl Mohammad
as openly here as elsewhere in Indonesia, but Jam.
Chinese restaurants, the Sulthan Hotel and
Country Steak House serve beer. As long as it’s Getting Around
kept quiet, most of the locals don’t mind. Airport taxis charge a set rate of 70,000Rp
If you’d like to see what life is like without for the 16km ride into town. A taxi from the
the fermented juice, follow the locals to the airport to Uleh-leh port will cost 100,000Rp.

SUMATRA
brewed replacement. Friendly locals sip strong Labi labi are the main form of transport
Acehnese coffee and smoke at Chek Yoke (Jl Chik around town and cost 1500Rp. The labi-labi
Pante Kulu), a coffee shop on the southern banks terminal (Jl Diponegoro) is that special breed of
of the river, which serves delicious pastries. Indonesian mayhem.
Aceh’s most famous coffee house is nick­ For Uleh-leh (5000Rp, 30 minutes), take the
named Solong Café (Jasa Ayah Cafeteria; Sedia Bubuk blue labi labi signed ‘Uleh-leh’. You can also
Aceh, Ulee Kareng). One-pound bags of finely reach Lhok Nga and Lampu’uk (10,000Rp).
ground, locally grown coffee are for sale and From the bus station, a becak into town will
make a delicious post-Indo gift. You’ll need cost around 15,000Rp. A becak around town
to take a taxi. should cost between 5000Rp and 10,000Rp,
depending on your destination. From the
Getting There & Away centre of town to Geuceu Komplek, a becak
AIR should cost about 10,000Rp.
There are several flights a day from Banda
Aceh to Medan and Jakarta on Garuda, PULAU WEH
Sriwijaya and Lion Air. Air Asia flies daily %0652 / pop 25,000
to Kuala Lumpur, and Firefly to Penang in A tiny tropical rock off the tip of Sumatra,
Malaysia. NBA (%333 777) is the best airline Weh is a little slice of peaceful living that re­
serving the region, with flights to Takengon, wards travellers who’ve journeyed up through
Kutacane, Singkil, Simeulue and Meulaboh. the turbulent greater mainland below. After
BP Travel (%32325; Jl Panglima Polem 75) is a you’ve hiked around the mainland’s jungles,
helpful air-ticket agent. Garuda (Garuda Indonesia; volcanoes and lakes, it’s time to jump into the
%32523; Jl Daud Beureeh 9) also has an office in languid waters of the Indian Ocean. Snorkellers
Banda Aceh. and divers bubble through the great walls of
swaying sea fans, deep canyons and rock pin­
BOAT nacles, while marvelling at the prehistorically
After the tsunami, the port moved to Uleh-leh, gargantuan fish. This is one of the finest un­
10km northwest of Banda Aceh’s city centre. derwater hikes you’ll find. Both figuratively
The road to the port goes straight through and geographically, Pulau Weh is the cherry
the tsunami’s path – once a two car–garage on top for many visitors to Sumatra.
 410 A C E H • • Pu l a u W e h lonelyplanet.com

Don’t come expecting lazy days on sprawl­ Tirta Divers (%332 4555; www.rubiahdivers.com; 1/2/3
ing beaches with swaying palms, though; the dives all inclusive €25/45/60) is the oldest dive opera­
stretches of sand are generally short, rocky tion on the island.
strips met by the ocean’s emerald-green coral At Gapang, Lumba Lumba Diving Centre (%332
garden. Most visitors spend their days un­ 4133; 081 1682 787; www.lumbalumba.com; 1/2/5 dives all in­
derwater, ogling the dazzling kaleidoscope clusive €25/45/100) is the centre of activity, with the
of marine life. Along the newly paved island comings and goings of wet-suited creatures.
road are little villages with underwear-only Ton and Marjan Egbers maintain a helpful
kids playing in the yard, lazy cows tied up website with detailed descriptions of dives
to a green patch of grass and scrappy goats and other need-to-know information. The
looking for garden victims. centre’s shop has internet access (500Rp per
Pulau Weh is shaped roughly like a horse­ minute).
shoe. On the northeastern leg is the port town Snorkelling gear can be hired almost any­
of Sabang, where most of Weh’s population where for around 20,000Rp per day.
lives. The primary tourist beaches are Gapang
and Iboih, which are about 20km away head­ GETTING THERE & AWAY
ing towards the northwestern leg. Some may Sabang is the port town on Pulau Weh. Fast
try to argue that one beach is better than the ferries to Sabang leave the mainland from
other, but both have their charms. Uleh-leh, situated 5km northwest of Banda
Note that malaria has been reported on the Aceh, at 9.30am and 3.30pm (economy/busi­
island, so take the proper precautions. ness/VIP 60,000/75,000/85,000Rp; 45 min­
It’s always a little rainy on Weh, which has utes to one hour). On Friday, the afternoon
two monsoon seasons. But that shouldn’t ferry departs at 4.30pm. Slow ferries (econ­
matter, as you’ll be underwater most of the omy/air-con 11,500/36,500Rp, two hours)
time anyway. Plus the rain keeps the island leave at 2pm on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday
SUMATRA

lush green and the water full of plankton, and Friday. On Wednesday, Saturday and
which draws in underwater giants such as Sunday there are two ferries, departing at
manta rays and whale sharks. 11am and 4pm, respectively. In the oppo­
The tsunami did give Weh a minor licking, site direction, the slow ferry leaves at 8am
but the island fared better than the mainland daily, with an afternoon ferry on Wednesday,
did. Many of the coastal businesses that were Saturday and Sunday at 2pm. The fast ferry
battered have since been rebuilt, and the vil­ leaves at 8.00am and 4pm daily. You should
lagers banded together to repair roads and get to the port at least 45 minutes before
replant trees. departure to get a ticket. Ferry service is
A word of warning: such is Pulau Weh’s weather pending.
allure, many a traveller’s itinerary has been
blown out by weeks or even months by what GETTING AROUND
is regarded by many as the best diving in From the port, there are regular minibuses to
Southeast Asia. Sabang (20,000Rp, 15 minutes), and Gapang
and Iboih (50,000Rp, 40 minutes).You can
ACTIVITIES catch a minibus from Jl Perdagangan in
People don’t come to Weh for the nightlife Sabang to Gapang and Iboih (30,000Rp).
or the bikinis. They come for the diving and
snorkelling, which is considered some of the Sabang
best in the Indian Ocean. On an average day, The island’s main township is an interest­
you’re likely to spot morays, lionfish and ing mix of traditional fishing village and old
stingrays. During plankton blooms, whale colonial villas. During Dutch rule, Sabang
sharks come to graze. Unlike at other dive was a major coal and water depot for steam­
sites, the coral fields take a back seat to the sea ships, but with the arrival of diesel power after
life and landscapes. There are close to 20 dive WWII it went into decline.
sites around the island, most in and around During the 1970s it was a duty-free port,
Iboih and Gapang. but this status was eliminated in 1986 and
There are several dive operators on the is­ Sabang once again became a sleepy fishing
land; the two main ones are listed here. Both town. Today the only industry – other than
offer PADI diving courses. At Iboih, Rubiah fishing – is rattan furniture.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A C E H • • Pu l a u W e h 411

Most people pass through Sabang fairly Gapang

quickly en route to the tourist beaches, but Occupying a sandy cove, Gapang is a lazy
return to town for provisions. stretch of beach lined with shack restau­
You’ll find internet at 2 Net Communication rants and simple guest houses. The locals
(per hr 6000Rp). The post office (Jl Perdagangan 66) is are friendly and the atmosphere is low-key
next door to the telephone office (h24hr), which and quiet, with dive chat dominating the
has a Home Country Direct phone. evenings.
BRI bank (Jl Perdagangan) changes travellers
cheques and US dollars at terrible rates. It SLEEPING & EATING
also has an unreliable ATM that’s usually out Gapang has the greatest variety of accommo­
of order; it’s highly recommended that you dation on the island, from pseudo-resorts to
change money at Banda Aceh. Alternatively, cheapie huts. A problem for budget-minded
try your negotiating skills with the Chinese backpackers is that the old boom years
moneychangers scattered about town. under the NGOs forced the prices dispro­
Sabang is surrounded by beautiful beaches. portionately high, meaning relative value
Just 10 minutes’ walk away is Pantai Paradiso, a for money is something you’ll struggle to
white-sand beach shaded by coconut palms. A find on Weh.
little further on is Pantai Kasih (Lover’s Beach), Ramadilla (r 50,000-100,000Rp) The last guest
and about 30 minutes from town is Pantai house along the beach, Ramadilla features
Sumur Tiga, a popular picnic spot. cabins that climb up the hill, plus a longhouse
Other attractions around Sabang include or two with a chieftain’s view of the sea.
Danau Anak Laut, a serene freshwater lake that Dang Dang Na (r 100,000Rp) Formerly Ohana;
supplies the island’s water, and Gunung Merapi, a here basic wooden bungalows on concrete
semi-active volcano, which holds boiling water stilts with ocean views and mandis (common
in its caldera and occasionally puffs smoke. Indonesian form of bath, consisting of a large

SUMATRA
water tank from which water is ladled over the
SLEEPING & EATING body) are planted on the hillside.
Few people choose to stay in town unless they Lumba Lumba (%332 4133; www.lumbalumba
get stuck. .com/staying.html; r with/without bathroom €12/8, cottage
Pom Losmen (%21148; Jl Teuku Umar 3; r with fan & €20-25; iW) Dutch-owned Lumba Lumba
shared bathroom 50,000-70,000Rp, r with air-con 175,000Rp; features seven spanking-new wood-decked
a) A local boarding house. cottages with tiled rooms and Western toilets.
Hotel Holiday (%21131; Jl Perdagangan 1; r without Accommodation is for the exclusive use of
bathroom 75,000-100,000Rp, r with bathroom 175,000Rp, r those diving with this outfit, so it’s often hard
with air-con 200,000-425,000Rp; a) A marked step to find a room. The blue line marked high on
up, Hotel Holiday is a Chinese-run hotel with the front entrance indicates the water level
solid, if not fashion-plate, rooms. reached during the tsunami.
oFreddies (%081 3602 5501; www.santai Two government-owned resorts, Flamboyan
-sabang.com; Santai Sumur Tiga; r weekday 210,000-225,000Rp, (%081 360272270; d 250,000-400,000Rp; a) and
weekend 250,000-275,000Rp) This delightful option Leguna Resort (%22799; d 250,000Rp; a), are
overlooks a pretty stretch of white-sand beach mostly avoided by Western tourists on ac­
with a coral reef, perfect for those content count of their dire need of maintenance and
with snorkelling and some R&R. The list of the fact that they’re often spookily empty.
alcohol is impressive and all food is cooked by There was talk of both closing; whether this
Freddie, the South African owner. Located in is permanent or for a much-needed refurbish­
Santai Sumur Tiga, 5km east of Sabang. ment, you’ll have to enquire on arrival.
Casa Nemo (%0812 692 2598; www.casanemo.com; Beachside cafes serving Western food ab­
Santai Sumur Tiga; weekday/weekend r 225,000/275,000Rp). sorb the evening breezes and postdive appe­
Italian-owned, this is another excellent Santai tites. For lunch, head out to the main road,
Sumur Tiga option, with bungalows perched where a small warung does delicious nasi
over a luxurious beach. bungus (rice and curry served for takeaway
There are plenty of restaurants along the in a banana leaf). Mama Donut is a local
main street, Jl Perdagangan, serving cheap institution, walking the sand selling deli­
Padang food. There’s also a fruit market near cious vegetable samosas, doughnuts and
the BRI bank. fried bananas.
 412 A C E H • • A c e h ’ s W e s t C o a s t Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Iboih Bungalows, does a nightly seafood dinner

More spread out than Gapang, Iboih (ee-boh) around a communal table and serves beer
follows a rocky headland with a string of sim­ amid scuba chat. Further down, Yulia’s has
ple bungalows along a woodsy footpath. A shakes and light fare. Prices at these places
small path leads through a stone gateway past tend to be around 25,000Rp for mains. There
the village well, and up and over a small hill was also large overwater restaurant in con­
to the bungalow strip. struction at the time of research.
Opposite Iboih, 100m offshore, is Pulau
Rubiah, a densely forested island surrounded Long Angen
by spectacular coral reefs known as the Sea This secluded beach on the western side of
Garden. It is a favourite snorkelling and diving the island is ideally located for spectacular
spot. The coral has been destroyed in places sunsets. The beach itself only exists for six
but there is still plenty to see, including turtles, months of the year – the sand is swept away
manta ray, lionfish, tigerfish and occasional by the sea from November to May.
sharks.
If you are a strong swimmer it is possible to ACEH’S WEST COAST
make your own way there. Beware of strong Rounding the northwestern tip of Sumatra’s
currents, especially at the southern tip of the finger of land is a string of little villages and
island. endless beaches backed by densely forested
Adjacent to the Sea Garden is the Iboih Forest hills, home to some interesting wildlife in­
nature reserve. It has some good walks, and cluding tigers and bears. This is the perfect
coastal caves that can be explored by boat. recipe for paradise, but several factors have
conspired to keep the sands free of beach
SLEEPING & EATING blankets: the unstable safety situation dur­
Simple palm-thatched bungalows, many built ing the military occupation of Aceh, and the
SUMATRA

on stilts and overhanging crystal-clear water, Boxing Day tsunami. Most of the houses along
make up the majority of the accommoda­ the coast are identical in design, having been
tion here – the cheapest you’ll find in Pulau rebuilt after villages were destroyed in 2004.
Weh. For the moment the attractive, but still visibly
Most places are very similar, but it’s best scarred, west coast attracts only the more in­
to do a wander before you declare a win­ trepid travellers and surfers in search of waves.
ner. If you are staying for several days, you Once the road from Banda Aceh to Calang is
can negotiate 50,000Rp a night for a basic completed, no doubt it will open up more to
bathroom and a fanless shack. The following tourists again.
bungalows are listed in geographic order as
you’ll approach them: of the more comfort­ Lhoknga & Lampu’uk
able huts, OONG’s Bunglalows (%0813 6070 0150; %0656 / pop Lhoknga 200, Lampu’uk 1000
r without bathroom 50,000Rp) has the best value Before the tsunami this area was a favourite
for money with its two waterfront shacks, spot of intrepid surfers and weekending lo­
while Iboih Inn (%081 2699 1659; r 200,000Rp) has cals from Banda Aceh. These coastal weekend
the most ‘luxurious’ shacks – but they are spots, only 17km from Banda Aceh, were lev­
outrageously overpriced. Yulia’s (%0813 7727 elled by the tsunami. In Lampu’uk the wave
9989; r without bathroom 70,000-80,000Rp) has the best travelled some 7km inland, killing four in
rooms of the basic bunch and excellent front- five people. The reconstruction work is pretty
door snorkelling. much complete here and the disjointed fami­
Just off the main road are a few shops sell­ lies that have returned are trying to continue
ing sundries, Indonesian lunches and coffee with their lives.
in front of a small beach. If you speak Bahasa There’s still very little in the way of ac­
Indonesia, this is where you can scoop up the commodation here, although some of the
village gossip. bungalows along the beach in Lampu’uk
Located next door to Rubiah Tirta Divers are rented out by surfers. Also in Lampu’uk,
is Sirkui Beach Café with pricey internet, and Joel’s Restaurant (%0813 7528 7765; h4pm-10pm
Mama’s, serving tasty meals and a view of the Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun), of the legendary
small beach that’s popular with sunbathers. Joel’s Bungalows fame before the tsunami,
Norma’s, the restaurant portion of OONG’s had beach bungalows in construction at the
lonelyplanet.com A C E H • • A c e h ’ s W e s t C o a s t 413

THE LAST OF THE LAMNOS

One tragic story resulting from the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami was the plight inflicted upon the
Lamno people – a mixed blood Portuguese-Acehnese ethnic group living along Aceh’s northwest
coast. The Lamno people are famous among the Acehnese for their European appearance, and
are affectionately referred to as the ‘blue eyes of Aceh’. The Portuguese explorers first arrived in
the region during the 16th century in search of spices; the Lamno people are their descendants.
The Lamno villages were hard hit by the tsunami, destroying six villages and killed three in four
people. Included in this figure were the remaining blue-eyes – all except a fisherman and his
wife, who are said to be the last of the Lamnos. In actuality, there is no doubt that Lamno people
still live in Banda Aceh and other parts of Aceh, but whether this recessive blue-eye gene will
continue through generations seems unlikely.

time of research. It’s a good spot for wood-fire find a few very basic losmen; if you’re on a
pizza, beer and a spot of surf chat; it also rents tight budget it’s worth asking to see if any­
surfboards. It’s situated in the village, away thing new has opened up. Speed Net (Jl Iskandar
from the beach. Muda; per hr 4000Rp) has internet.
Lhoknga has decent waves too, although it’s Bus services to Calang or Meulaboh are
beach is not as nice, particularly with the huge running again. The airport is operational
concrete factory and the nearby port. and Susi Air (www.susiair.com) runs twice-weekly
Take labi labi 04 (20,000Rp, 20 minutes) flights to Medan, while NBA flies to Medan
from the opelet terminal in Banda Aceh for and Banda Aceh.
both Lhoknga and Lampu’uk. Note that malaria can be a problem, so take
precautions. Before going for a swim, be aware

SUMATRA
Calang & Meulaboh that some of the west-coast beaches have very
%0654/5 strong currents.
This coastal swath of Banda Aceh felt the fe­
rocity of the tsunami more then anywhere Pulau Simeulue
else. The west-coast road from Banda Aceh %0650 / pop 70,000
to Meulaboh was destroyed by the tsunami. The isolated island of Simeulue, about 150km
USAID contracted Halliburton to rebuild west of Tapaktuan, is a rocky volcanic outcrop
parts of the road – while not complete from blanketed in rainforest and fringed with clove
Banda Aceh to Calang, the road is working and coconut plantations. Few visitors make
again and being used. You’ll need to make it this far – though the surfing is said to be
several river crossings with a rickety wooden excellent along the west coast.
car barge, complete with attached outboard You’ll find simple losmen (r 40,000Rp) in
motor. Sinabang and Sibigo, or if you have a tent you
Everything in the town of Calang was de­ can camp on the beach. The most comfort­
stroyed; the population was halved and in­ able sleeping option is the surf camp Baneng
frastructure was wiped out and relocated Beach Retreat (%0813 6241 7692; www.simeulue.com;
20km north of the original town. There’s packages Nov-Apr US$115, May-Oct US$140) on the west
very little to see or do here. If you get stuck coast. Packages include meals and transfers.
you can stay at Khana Hotel (%0654-221 0127; r Reef uplift from the earthquake has flattened
110,000-275,000Rp). out some of the famous surf breaks, but new
Further south, Meulaboh, 240km from spots are being discovered.
Banda Aceh, was the closest town to the earth­ Susi Air (%061-785 2169; www.susiair.com) has
quake’s epicentre and is often referred to in twice-daily flights from Medan, while Merpati
the press as ‘ground zero’. The town was com­ (%061-736 6888; www.merpati.co.id/EN) has three
pletely destroyed and close to a third of the flights a week from Medan. NBA has flights
120,000 population was killed. Reconstruction to Banda Aceh. Enquire with a local travel
is underway, but sorting such epic destruction agent for ticketing and schedules.
will take time. Meuligou Hotel (%0655-700 7171; Jl Ferries run from the mainland ports of
Iskandar Muda 35; 275,000-495,000Rp; a) is one of the Singkil and Labuhan Haji to Pulau Simeuleu’s
few places that survived the tsunami. You’ll port town of Sinabang.
 414 A C E H • • Pu l a u B a n y a k lonelyplanet.com

Tapaktuan Aceh (economy/air-con 100,000/170,000Rp,

%0656 / pop 15,000 10 hours); Medan (120,000Rp, 10 hours) via
The sleepy seaside town of Tapaktuan, 200km Berastagi and Sidikalang. From Sidikalang
south of Meulaboh, is the main town in South it’s possible to get a direct bus to Pangururan
Aceh. It’s very laid-back by Sumatran stand­ (50,000Rp, two hours) on the west coast of
ards and, although it has few specific sights, Danau Toba.
it can be a pleasant place to hang out for a NBA has two flights per week to Medan,
couple of days. Although its location would and one per week (on Friday) to Banda
suggest otherwise, Tapaktuan was not notice­ Aceh.
ably affected by the tsunami. Many displaced
people from other parts of Aceh have sought Singkil
refuge here with relatives or friends. %0658 / pop 20,000
Most places of importance are on the main Singkil is a remote port at the mouth of Sungai
street, Jl Merdeka, which runs along the coast. Alas. It’s a sleepy town with welcoming locals,
The town can be used as a base to explore although it merits a mention only as the de­
the lowland Kluet region of Gunung Leuser parture point for boats to the Banyak Islands
National Park, about 45km south. Kluet’s and Pulau Simeulue.
unspoilt swamp forests support the densest Catching a boat will mean spending a night
population of primates in Southeast Asia and in Singkil, with Hotel Dina Amalia (%0856 6404
are also good sites for bird-watching. It may 4354; [email protected]; Jl Bahari; r 130,000-200,000Rp;
be possible to hire guides through the na­ a) the best option. You can also find basic
tional park office in Kandang, 38km south losmen (r 30,000Rp). Internet is at Icang Promo (Jl
of Tapaktuan. Bahari; per hr 5000Rp).
Pantai Tu’i Lhok and Pantai Air Dingin, about NBA has two flights to Medan and one
18km north of Tapaktuan, are the best of sev­ flight to Banda Aceh per week. Bombay Tours
SUMATRA

eral good beaches in the area. Opposite both & Travel (%0813 7721 9667; Jl Mesjid 102) can or­
beaches are waterfalls with natural plunge ganise flights to Medan as well as charter
pools where you can cool off. speedboats.
Gua Kelam (Dark Cave), 3km north of There are daily minibuses from Medan
Tapaktuan, is a spectacular series of caves to Singkil (80,000Rp, nine hours) and from
and tunnels that can be explored, but you’d Banda Aceh (250,000Rp, 16 hours). If you’re
be wise to take a guide. You can usually find travelling from Berastagi, Danau Toba or
a guide at the coffee shop by the river. Tapaktuan, you will need to change buses at
Most of the places to stay are located along Sidikalang and Subulus Salem.
Jl Merdeka. Losmen Bukit Barisan (%21145; r For transport to Pulau Banyak, see oppo­
50,000Rp), an old Dutch house, is a friendly place site. There’s also one overnight ferry per week
with basic rooms and a certain shabby charm; to Sinabang, Pulau Simeulue (28,000Rp to
and Hotel Panorama (%21004; Jl Merdeka 33; d 55,000­ 68,000Rp, Wednesday 6.30pm), arriving early
135,000Rp; a) is a large, modern hotel with a the next morning.
range of reasonable rooms. Otherwise try the
comfortable Metro Hotel (%0813 6053 8088; Jl Ben PULAU BANYAK
Mahmud 17; r incl breakfast 250,000Rp), a friendly guest pop 5000
house with some rooms looking out over the If you’ve ever dreamt about having a tropical
waves rolling into shore. island entirely to yourself, complete with palm
Jl Merdeka is also a good place to find a bite trees, powdery white beaches and gin-clear
to eat. Seafood is a speciality and there are sev­ waters, then Pulau Banyak is a great place to
eral restaurants selling delicious grilled fish for fulfil your Robinson Crusoe fantasy. A cluster
about 10,000Rp. After dark, the night market by of 99, mostly uninhabited islands, the Banyak
the main pier, opposite Hotel Panorama, kicks (Many) Islands are situated about 30km west
into action. It’s a lively place for a quick meal. of Singkil. They are very remote and see few
Bank BRI has a 24-hour ATM. casual visitors. As well as beaches to laze on,
Pulau Banyak has some great reef breaks for
GETTING THERE & AWAY surfing, kayaking and snorkelling.
The west road is now working and in semi- The 2004 Boxing Day earthquake and
decent order. There’s a daily bus from Banda tsunami, followed by the 2005 Nias quake,
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels A C E H • • G a y o H i g h l a n d s 415

destroyed many coastal dwellings and con­ with shared bathroom 20,000-85,000Rp, r with air-con 85,000­
taminated fresh-water wells. The main town 150,000Rp; a). At Haloban you can stay at the
on the island of Pulau Balai was perma­ losmen Sederhana Aleng Moon (%0813 9745 8156;
nently see-sawed by the quake, causing the r 40,000Rp).
west coast to rise by about 70cm and the On Pulau Palambak Basar, you’ll find basic
east coast to drop below sea level. Its once- bungalows at Pap (%0812 6332 2839; r 50,000Rp)
beautiful beaches were permanently washed which has mosquito nets, and also the Point
away, hence most visitors only hang around (%0852 7744 2298; r 75,000Rp). Both look onto per­
to arrange transport to one of the other fect white beaches and turquoise water. Pulau
islands. Tailana also has basic bungalows (50,000Rp),
Your first port of call on Balai should be and there’s a good chance that you’ll have the
to Yayasan Pulau Banyak (YPB; %0813 6282 8449; luk entire island to yourself.
[email protected]; Jl Makmur, Balai), an NGO that On Ujung Lolok, surfers can try Banyak Island
aims to develop ecotourism as an alternative Lodge (%0813 6126 3491; www.banyakislandlodge.com;
livelihood for local communities. YPB can 9/12 nights package all-inclusive with flights AU$3190/3490),
provide information on places to stay and which also organises fishing trips.
transport, as well as guides and tents. It was
set up to promote sea turtle conservation Getting There & Around
in the region, and continues to do excellent There is one ferry a week (Tuesday 8.30am)
work. If you’re keen to see turtles lay their between the mainland port of Singkil and
eggs on the beach at Pulau Bangkaru, you’ll Balai (16,000Rp, four hours). It returns from
need to obtain a permit first from YPB. It’s Balai to Singkil on Wednesday at 8.30am.
also possible to do volunteer work, with du­ Local boats depart Singkil (30,000Rp, 4½
ties including nightly beach patrols collecting hours) at around 8am to 9am on Monday,
data on the nesting turtle population. Enquire Thursday and Saturday. They return from

SUMATRA
on their website at www.acehturtleconser Balai on Sunday, Wednesday and Friday.
vation.org. A boat leaves twice a week to Haloban
Tourists arriving on Balai will need to bring (50,000Rp). Try calling Mr Dasir (%0852 6111
a copy of their passport and register at the 0411) for further info.
police office. By far the most convenient way to reach
Haloban on Pulau Tuangku is the other the islands is to charter a speedboat from
main village on the islands, which many Singkil (one way/return around 800,000/
visitors prefer over Balai; though it’s not re­ 1,400,000Rp, two hours), although it is very
nowned for its beaches, it’s more relaxed. expensive.
Malaria has been reported on the islands, To travel between islands it’s best to ask
so take suitable precautions. around at the port on Balai or enquire at YPB
for local boats to islands (around 50,000Rp
Sleeping & Eating per two hours).
Sleeping options on Pulau Banyak are lim­
ited and basic, with only a few islands having GAYO HIGHLANDS
bungalows. Camping is another option, and As long as the peace lasts, the interior of
will allow you to stay exclusively on one of the Aceh is ripe for off-the-path picking. This is
many uninhabited idyllic islands. Tents can coffee country, cool and mountainous with
be arranged through Yayasan Pulau Banyak spectacular vistas and the odd view of wild
(see above). jungle critters. The road from Takengon to
If staying at one of the bungalows, or if Blangkejeran, the main towns of the Gayo
you have a guide, you can arrange food on Highlands, is astoundingly picturesque and
the islands; otherwise you’ll have to bring can be used as an alternative route to or from
provisions with you (or catch your own din­ Berastagi.
ner!). It’s a good idea to stock up on food The Gayo people, who number about
and drinking water in Singkil. Sunglasses 250,000, lived an isolated existence until the
are essential, such is the intense glare from advent of modern roads and transport. Like
the sun. the neighbouring Acehnese, the Gayo are
If you get stuck at Balai, the best accom­ strict Muslims and were renowned for their
modation is at Losmen Putri (%0813 9737 6499; r fierce resistance to Dutch rule.
 416 A C E H • • G a y o H i g h l a n d s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Takengon perched above the lake, Renggali’s rooms

%0643 / elev 1120m are large and comfortable and open directly
Takengon is the largest town in the highlands, onto the calm lake and pleasant gardens – so
and while it is not particularly attractive it it’s surprising that it’s often spookily empty.
retains a relaxed charm, with a spectacular Situated 2km out of town.
setting and a refreshing climate. The town Rakan Singkile (Jl Labe Kader 2; meals 10,000-25,000Rp)
is built on the shores of Danau Laut Tawar, Tasty Chinese, Indonesian and Western
a 26km-long stretch of water, surrounded dishes, as well as beer (17,000Rp).
by steep hills rising to volcanic peaks. Pondok Laguna (Jl Lintang, mains 12,000-30,000Rp)
Gunung Geureundong, to the north, rises Best restaurant in town, with a good se­
2855m. lection of vegetarian and seafood dishes.
The back section is one giant adventure
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION playground.
All of the action is in the centre of town on Delicious fresh Gayo coffee is available
Jl Lebe Kadir. You’ll find the post office, a pretty much everywhere. A local special­
Telkom wartel, the police station and Mesjid ity is kopi telor kocok – a raw egg and sugar
Raya here. You can change money at BRI bank creamed together in a glass and topped up
(Jl Yos Sudarso), which has an ATM. HRC.Net (Jl with coffee.
Sengeda; per hr 5000Rp) has internet, including wi-fi
hotspots in its surrounds, access to which you SHOPPING
can purchase by the hour. Takengon is the place to buy traditional-
style Gayo-Alas tapestry, which is made
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES into clothes, belts, purses and cushion cov­
Takengon’s main attractions are all natural. ers. At the market, it’s sometimes possible
Admire the views, cruise around the lake in to buy highly decorated engraved pottery
SUMATRA

a perahu (dugout canoe) or explore caves, called keunire, which is used in wedding
waterfalls and hot springs. ceremonies.
The best cave is Loyang Koro (Buffalo Caves; admis­
sion 3000Rp), 6km from town, which has some GETTING THERE & AWAY
interesting stalagmites. Don’t forget to bring There’s one bus a day to Medan at 7.30pm
a torch (flashlight). (air-con, 110,000Rp, 10 hours). There are
At Simpang Balik, about 15km north of also buses to Banda Aceh (85,000Rp, eight
Takengon, the sulphurous hot spring (Wih Pesame; hours). Heading south, there are regular buses
entry by donation) is set in a large concrete pool to Blangkejeran (80,000Rp, seven hours)
and is said to cure skin diseases. and Ketambe (110,000Rp, nine hours). You
In the week following Independence Day would connect through these towns to reach
(17 August), Takengon hosts a regional horse- Berastagi.
racing carnival, held at the track to the west of NBA flies has two flights a week to both
town. It’s a highly spirited affair, with 12-year­ Medan and Banda Aceh.
old jockeys from all over the highlands riding
bareback in the hope of glory. GETTING AROUND
Labi labi leave from the southern end of Jl
SLEEPING & EATING Baleatu. Fares around town cost 2000Rp.
Hotel Buntu Kubu (Jl Malem Dewa; r 65,000-140,000Rp) Perahu for lake cruising can be hired at the
This hotel has a varied history: a former Dutch pier at the end of Jl Laut Tawar.
official residence, museum and Indonesian
military post. Today it’s a pretty horrible, run­ Blangkejeran
down guest house, though it’s the only cheap Blangkejeran is the main town of the remote
place in town. southern highlands. The area is recognised as
Hotel Mahara (%21728; Jl Sengeda 568; r incl break­ the Gayo heartland and it’s possible to hire
fast 185,000-295,000Rp) New sparkling rooms with guides to take you out to some of the smaller
homely fittings arranged around an indoor villages. Accommodation is available in several
Indonesian-style pond with bonsai trees. small guest houses. There are regular buses
oHotel Renggali (%21144; Jl Bintang; d incl north to Banda Aceh via Takengon and south
breakfast 250,000-550,000Rp) A wonderful location to Ketambe and Kutacane.
lonelyplanet.com A C E H • • G u n u n g Le u s e r N a t i o n a l Pa r k 417

GUNUNG LEUSER NATIONAL PARK in Aceh, the jungle was a stronghold of GAM
%0629 militants, and the national park saw fighting
The Aceh section of Gunung Leuser National between GAM and Indonesian troops.
Park has slipped under the tourist radar for This park receives a lot of rain throughout
years, seeing only a trickle of visitors as the the year, but rain showers tend to lessen in
masses head to the more hyped Bukit Lawang. frequency and duration from December to
Its jungle is basically the same minus the well- March.
worn paths and tourists clambering about
trying to spot semiwild orangutans. Here is Ketambe (Gurah)
the place for the real jungle experience. In ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
the past it’s been largely off limits due to the Ketambe (also called Gurah), in the heart of the
conflict, but now that there’s peace in the Alas Valley, is one of the main access points to
region it’s likely to receive the recognition Gunung Leuser National Park. Directly across
it deserves. the river is Ketambe Research Station, a world-
The World Heritage-listed Gunung Leuser renowned conservation research station, which
National Park is one of the world’s most im­ is off limits to tourists (see the boxed text,
portant and biologically diverse conserva­ p418). Kutacane, 43km from Ketambe, is the
tion areas. It is often described as a complete closest town of any note and is the place to go
ecosystem laboratory because of the range of for transport, ATMs and internet. For the lat­
forest and species types. ter, go to Yom@ (Jl Iskandar 71; per hr 4000Rp; h24hr).
Within the park’s boundaries live some Permits to the park (20,000Rp per day) can
of the planet’s most endangered and exotic be arranged at guest houses in Ketambe. In
species: tigers, rhinoceros, elephants and or­ theory you will need three photocopies of your
angutans. Although your chances of seeing passport but this is rarely required. Guides can
these celebrity animals are remote, you’ve got be hired from any guest house in Gurah. If

SUMATRA
a reasonable chance of seeing orangutans, you want to see a certain plant or animal, ask
and you can be sure of encountering plenty around for the guides with that speciality.
of primates. The most common is the white- Guide prices (one day 250,0000Rp, two
breasted Thomas’ leaf monkey, which sports a days and one night 350,000Rp, three days
brilliant, crested punk hairdo. Other resident and two nights 700,000Rp) are fixed by the
species include leopards, bears and cobras. Sumatran Guide Association. Non-English­
Habitats range from the swamp forests of speaking guides cost less. It’s important that
the west coast to the dense lowland rainfor­ you support local guides if possible, rather
ests of the interior. Much of the area around than organising through Medan.
Ketambe is virgin forest. Above 1500m, the
permanent mist has created moss forests rich TREKKING
in epiphytes and orchids. Rare flora includes For serious trekkers and jungle enthusiasts
two members of the rafflesia family, Rafflesia Ketambe offers a much more authentic expe­
acehensis and Rafflesia zippelnii, which are rience than the trekking near Bukit Lawang.
found along Sungai Alas. Be prepared for extreme terrain, hordes of
More than 300 bird species have been leeches and swarms of stinging insects. Bring
recorded in the park, including the bizarre plenty of water. Here are a few options; guides
rhinoceros hornbill, the helmeted hornbill can also tailor a trip to specific requests:
and woodpeckers. Gurah Recreation Forest The hutan wisata (recreation
The park faces a great number of chal­ forest) at Gurah is a park within the national park. The
lenges. Poachers have virtually wiped out forest’s 92 sq km has walking tracks and viewing towers.
the crocodile population and have severely The most popular walk involves a two-hour (5km) hike
reduced the number of tigers and rhinoceros. from Ketambe to hot springs by Sungai Alas. There’s also a
According to the Indonesian Forum for the 6km walk to a waterfall.
Environment, a fifth of the park has been Bukit Lawang Starting one hour south of Kutacane, this
adversely affected by illegal logging and road five-day trek through tough terrain passes over 20 river
construction. A highly controversial road crossings. You have a good chance of seeing orangutans
project called Ladia Galaska runs through the and gibbons, and the trek passes through areas that
park, linking the eastern and western coasts of elephants are known to inhabit. You can arrange to have
the province. Furthermore, during the conflict your luggage delivered to Bukit Lawang separately.
 418 A C E H • • G u n u n g Le u s e r N a t i o n a l Pa r k Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

KETAMBE RESEARCH STATION

The Ketambe Research Station has been conducting extensive studies of the flora and fauna of
Gunung Leuser National Park for almost 30 years.
In the early 1970s, Ketambe was home to Sumatra’s orangutan rehabilitation program, but the
project was relocated to Bukit Lawang to allow researchers to study the Ketambe region without
the disruption of tourists. Nowadays the station’s primary concern is hard-core conservation,
research and species cataloguing. Both the centre and the surrounding forest are off limits to
almost everyone but the Indonesian and international researchers.
The 450-hectare protected area consists mainly of primary lowland tropical forest and is home
to a large number of primates, as well as Sumatran tigers, rhinoceros, sun bears, hornbills and
snakes. Despite its protected status, a third of the area has been lost to illegal logging since
1999.

Gunung Kemiri At 3314m, this is the second-highest Wisma Cinta Alam (%0852 7086 4580; r 30,000­
peak in Gunung Leuser National Park. The return trek takes 60,000Rp) Another decent option along the
five to six days, starting from the village of Gumpang, river, whose owner is an experienced guide.
north of Ketambe. It takes in some of the park’s richest A good choice for those keen on rafting.
primate habitat, with orangutans, macaques, siamangs The government-owned Gurah Bungalows
and gibbons. is simply best avoided.
Gunung Simpali The trek to Gunung Simpali (3270m) is If you arrive in Kutacane too late to reach
a one-week round trip starting from the village of Engkran Gurah, you might have to spend the night at
and following the valley of Sungai Lawe Mamas. Rhinos Hotel Maroon (%21078; Jl Besar; r from 60,000-150,000Rp;
live in this area. The Lawe Mamas is a wild, raging river a); one of the better sleeping options in
SUMATRA

that joins the Alas about 15km north of Kutacane. town, it’s located in a quiet street parallel to
Gunung Leuser The park’s highest peak is, of course, the main road.
Gunung Leuser (3404m). Only the fit should attempt the
14-day return trek to the summit. The walk starts from the GETTING THERE & AROUND
village of Angusan, northwest of Blangkejeran. NBA flies from Kutacane to Medan and to
Banda Aceh twice weekly.
SLEEPING & EATING Long-distance buses leave from the ter­
Accommodation is scattered along the only minal in Kutacane for Medan’s Pinang Baris
road through Ketambe; guest houses are listed terminal (50,000Rp, seven hours), Banda
in geographical order as you arrive into town. Aceh (190,000Rp, 20 hours) via Takengon
Each has its own small restaurant. (130,000Rp, eight hours) and Berastagi
Pak Mus Guesthouse (%0813 8020 4305; r 50,000Rp) (50,000Rp, five hours). Along the way there
Charming family-run bungalows set beneath are fine views of Gunung Sinabung and the
a forest backdrop. Thomas’ leaf monkeys are Alas Valley.
often sighted feeding on the fruit trees. From Kutacane there are countless labi labi
Pondok Wisata Ketambe (%24652; www.ketambe to Ketambe (10,000Rp, one hour).
-indonesia.com; r 50,000-70,000Rp) Well-established There are buses heading north to
guest house with knowledgeable staff. Blangkejeran (80,000Rp, three hours) and
Wisma Sadar Wisata (%0852 7615 5741; r 50,000Rp) beyond.
Here you’ll find a range of good-value bunga­
lows from basic older models to newer, more Kedah
comfortable rooms overlooking the river. The Located 15km west of Blangkejeran, the small
friendly lady owner is great for a laugh. village of Kedah has seen very few visitors
oFriendship Guesthouse (%0852 9688 3624; since the conflict in Aceh, making it ripe for
www.ketambe.com; r 50,000) This new spot has a off-the-beaten-track travel. At the northern
beautiful location 150m upriver, with charm­ edge of Gunung Leuser National Park, Kedah
ing wooden bungalows and Western toilets. is a magnificent starting point for treks into
Staff are very friendly, and there are plenty of the jungle, which is home to orangutans,
characters lurking about (Jhon Kanedi, aka gibbons and other exotic wildlife, birds and
JFK, is a classic!). plants.
lonelyplanet.com W E S T S U MAT R A 419

Rainforest Lodge (%0859 6077 6934; www.gunung into deep ravines and nature takes a breath in
-leuser-trek.net; r without bathroom 80,000Rp) is run by deep silent lakes. Rainforest still clings to the
the popular Mr Jali, with simple but pleasant steepest slopes, while rice, tapioca, cinnamon
bungalows in beautiful jungle surrounds. The and coffee bring in the wealth.
lack of electricity adds greatly to its charm. This is the heartland of the matriarchal
To get here catch a bus to Blangkejeran, Minangkabau, an intelligent, culturally rich
from where you can take a motorbike taxi and politically savvy people who have suc­
(40,000Rp, 20 minutes) to Kedah. cessfully exported their culture, language,
cuisine and beliefs throughout Indonesia.
Their unique buffalo-horned architecture
WEST SUMATRA dominates the cities and villages.
Hot, bustling Padang on the Indian
From the air, Sumatra Barat looks as though Ocean is the gateway and provincial capital,
a giant has plunged their hands into the though most tourists head straight for sce­
equator, thrown it high into the air, and let nic Bukittinggi in the highlands. Surfers and
it rain back down to earth. Fertile uplands trekkers flock to the perfect breaks and tribal
ring jungle-clad volcanoes, waterfalls cascade culture of the Mentawai Islands, while nature

0 50 km
WEST SUMATRA 0 30 miles

To Sibolga (167km); Rao

NORTH Parapat (281km);
SUMATRA Medan (457km)
RIAU
Panti Bangkinang
Tra

Gunung
n

Pasaman
s–S

Rantau To

SUMATRA
Talu (2912m)
um

Air Bangis Berangin Pekanbaru

atra

(50km)
Tanjung
nH

Lubuk Sikaping
Simpang Empat
wy

Pangkalan
Bonjol
Equator Batang Palupah
Sasak Nature Reserve
Suliki Harau
Kubang Valley
See Around Bukittinggi Map (p436) Limbuku
Bukittinggi Payakumbuh
Lubuk Maninjau
Basung Danau Gunung Gunung
Maninjau Pandai Merapi Sago
Tiku Gunung Sikat (2891m) (2263m)

��
Singgalang Koto Baru
(2877m) Batu Sangkar
Padangpanjang o
Carg ay
Lembah Anai Belimbing Railw
Nature Reserve
Sicincin
Pariaman Danau
Lubuk Singkarak
Alung
Sijungjung
Bandara
Internasional Sawahlunto
Solok
s Minangkabau
nd Sungai Gunung

��
a Pantai
Isl Batang Arau Talang
ai Pasir Jambak Padang
taw (2572m)
M en 26) Lubukselasih
e p4
Se ap ( Teluk Bayur Port Danau
M Koto Lubuk Hitam Dibawah
Muara Siger
Pantai Bungus (Air Terjun
Pulau Sirandah Tiga Tingkat) Danau
Sikabaluan Alahan Panjang
Pulau Sikuai Teluk Diatas
Pulau Pagang Pulau Kabung Port
Pokhai Sironjong
Pulau Marak Jembartan Surian
Akar
Pulau Pulau Cubadak Tarusan
Siberut Muara Saibi Painan
Selat
Mentawai Pasarkuok Muaralabuh
Muara
Simatalu
Muara Siberut
Tiap Sungaisirah
Taieleo Pulau To Sungai Penuh
Masokut (60km)
Selat Liki
Pulau Bungalaut Gunung
Karamajet
Sigoisooinan Kerinci
Tua Pejat (3805m)
Siberimanua Sioban Padiankayudad
Kerinci
Pulau To Pulau Pagai
Utara (25km) Valley
Sipora
 420 W E S T S U MAT R A • • Pa d a n g lonelyplanet.com

THE MINANGKABAU
Legend has it that the Minangkabau are descended from the wandering Macedonian tyrant
Alexander the Great. According to the story, the ancestors of the Minangkabau arrived in Sumatra
under the leadership of King Maharjo Dirajo, the youngest son of Alexander.
Anthropologists, however, suggest that the Minangkabau arrived in West Sumatra from the
Malay Peninsula some time between 1000 and 2000 BC, probably by following Sungai Batang
Hari upstream from the Strait of Melaka to the highlands of the Bukit Barisan mountains.
Even if they don’t have Alexander’s bloodline, the Minangkabau reflect his wanderlust and love
of battle, albeit in the milder form of buffalo fighting. Their success in buffalo fighting is believed to
have bestowed the people with their tribal name, and the horns of the beast are the focus of their
architecture and traditional costumes.
The legend of how the Minangkabau named themselves begins with an imminent attack by
a Javanese king. Rather than pit two armies against each other, the Minangkabau proposed a
fight between two bulls. When the time came, the West Sumatrans dispatched a tiny calf to fight
the enormous Javanese bull, but the half-starved beast was outfitted with sharp metal spears to
its horns. Believing the Javanese bull to be its mother, the calf rushed to suckle and ripped the
bull’s belly to shreds. When the bull finally dropped dead, the people of West Sumatra shouted
‘Minangkabau, minangkabau!’, which literally means ‘The buffalo wins, the buffalo wins!’
Linguistic sticklers, though, prefer the far more prosaic explanation that Minangkabau is a
combination of two words: minanga, meaning ‘a river’, and kerbau, meaning ‘buffalo’. A third
theory suggests that it comes from the archaic expression pinang kabhu, meaning ‘original home’ –
Minangkabau being the cradle of Malay civilisation.
SUMATRA

lovers explore Sumatra’s largest national park traditional leaders. The fighting dragged on
in Kerinci, just across the border in Jambi until 1837, when the Dutch overcame the
province. Danau Maninjau remains the stun­ equator town of Bonjol, the stronghold of
ning, forgotten jewel in the crown. the Padri leader Imam Bonjol, whose name
adorns street signs all over Indonesia. In today’s
History Minangkabau society, a curious fusion of tradi­
Little is known about the area’s history be­ tional beliefs and Islam is practised.
fore the arrival of Islam in the 14th century.
However, the abundance of megalithic re­ PADANG
mains around the towns of Batu Sangkar and %0751 / pop 960,000
Payakumbuh, near Bukittinggi, suggest that Most visitors don’t give Sumatra’s third-largest
the central highlands supported a sizable com­ city a second glance, convinced that it’s just
munity some 2000 years ago. another simmering urbo-Indonesian sprawl
After the arrival of Islam, the region was of traffic, smog and chaos. Caught between the
split into small Muslim states ruled by sultans. mountains and the sea, this once-humble fish­
It remained this way until the beginning of ing village is reinventing itself, aided by cheap
the 19th century, when war erupted between airfares and its proximity to the region’s power
followers of the Islamic fundamentalist Padri centres of Malaysia and Singapore. There’s a
movement and supporters of the local chiefs, strong sense of cultural identity among the
adherents to the Minangkabau adat (tradi­ youthful, well-educated population, and Padang
tional laws and regulations). The Padris were is the modern face of Minangkabau culture and
so named because their leaders were haji, pil­ the cuisine Padang gave to the world. Sure, it’s
grims who had made their way to Mecca via not without its problems, which include daily
the Acehnese port of Pedir. They returned blackouts, but as you eat sate, sip a Bintang and
from the haj determined to establish a true watch the sun dive blood red into the Indian
Islamic society and stamp out the pre-Islamic Ocean, who really cares?
ways that dominated the ruling houses. Note: at the time of going to press, a major
The Padris had won control of much of the earthquake hit Padang, destroying large sec­
highlands by 1821 when the Dutch decided to tions of town and the surrounding region. See
join the fray in support of the Minangkabau boxed text, p422, for further information.
lonelyplanet.com W E S T S U MAT R A • • Pa d a n g 421

Orientation & Information INTERNET ACCESS & POST

While Padang’s tentacles spread in all direc­ Caroline Street Internet (Jl Pondok 5F; per hr 6000Rp;

tions, the central area is reasonably compact. h9am-9pm)

Most of the action is centred around the pasar Cyber West (Jl Nipa Berok 10; per hr 5000Rp h9am-late)

(market) on Jl M Yamin, and the area im­ Post office (Jl Azizchan 7; per hr 6000Rp)

mediately south bounded by Jl Iman Bonjol,

the river and the sea. Jl Bundo Kandung MEDICAL SERVICES
contains top-end hotels, while cheaper digs Rumah Sakit Yos Sudarso (%33230; Jl Situjuh 1)
can be found along Jl Hayam Wuruk and Jl Selasih Hospital (%51405; Jl Khatib Sulaiman 72)
Diponegoro/Veteran. The old colonial area
on the river is home to Chinatown. MONEY
The main opelet terminal is across from the There are ATMs all over town, and all major
pasar and the airport is 20km north. Taxis are Indonesian banks are represented. The Dipo
found outside any of the top-end hotels, and be­ International Hotel (Jl Diponegoro 13) has a 24-hour
hind the museum on Jl Gereja. Boats to Siberut moneychanger.
leave from one of two ports (for more informa­ BCA bank (Jl Agus Salim 10)

tion see Getting There & Away, p424). BII bank (Bank Internasional Indonesia; Jl Sudirman 14)

0 500 m
PADANG 0 0.3 miles
Jl Situjuh
A B C D
Jl Veteran

12
19 To Pangeran
Beach Hotel (3km); To Batavia Air (3km);
Vans For Bukittinggi Jl Cut
Muthia Selasih Hospital (3km);
Jl Purus II 22 & Kerinci (5km) SLEEPING
Telkom Wartel (3km);
Jl Purus I 39 Airport (20km); Ambacang..................................15 B3
1 INFORMATION
Bukittinggi (89km)
Bumiminang Hotel......................16 B3
Jl Ahmad Yani

SUMATRA
Bank Mandiri...............................1 C2 Hotel Inna Muara.......................17 B3
BCA Bank.....................................2 C2 Hotel Nuansa.............................
General 18 A3
Hospital
Hotel Tiga Tiga........................... 19 B1
Bevys Sumatra..............................3 B3

Car
BII Bank........................................4 C1 23 Immanuel Hotel ........................20 B4
Train

go L
BNI Bank......................................5 B3 Spice Homestay..........................
Station 21 B3
4 Sriwijaya Hotel ...........................22 B1
BRI Bank......................................6 C2

ine
Caroline Street Internet................7 B3 Jl Tan Malaka Wisma Mayang Sari...................23 C1
Cyber West..................................8 B4
Jl Sudirm

Dipo International Hotel...............9 B3 EATING

Jl Pasar Raya

Ina Tours....................................(see 9) Fellas..........................................

an
24 B4
wah
Padang Tourism.........................10 A4 France Modern Jl Sa Bakery...............25 B4
an

Post Office.................................11 C3 38
Ikan Bakar ('Pak Agus')..............26 B4
2 Mirama Café..............................27 B3
2 Rumah Sakit Yos Sudarso...........12 C1 lim
us Sa Nelayan Restaurant....................28 A3
Sumatran Surfariis......................(see 3) Jl Ag Jl Sisinga29
Jl Pasar Baru1 Pagi Sore....................................
Mangaraja
B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Sari Raso....................................30 B3
Adityawarman Museum.............13 B3 Simpang Raya............................31 B3
6 Taman Ria Pantai Padang.......... 32 A4
Taman Budaya Cultural Centre...14 B3 33 35
Jl Pemuda 11
34 Police To Teluk
36 40 42 Station Jl Proklamasi
Jl M Yamin 41 To Aie Pacah Bayur (8km);
Jl Azizc

Bus Terminal Pantai Bungus (20km)

Jl Alanglawas

Mosque
ilway

9 (12km)
Jl Diponegoro

Jl H iligoo

31
Jl Samud

Taman
Jl Imam Bonjol

han

o Ra
o Kandung

Carg

3
era

14 15 5
nd

13 7 30 rin
Bu

To Teluk
Jl Pon

INDIAN a J
l 16 ham
28 re j 21 Jl T Bayur (7.5km);
OCEAN Ge 17 Pantai Bungus (19.5km)
Jl
dok
bi
Jl Bandar Ge

Jl Sutan Syahrir
Jl Do

3
18 27
29
20 SHOPPING
Jl N

Pantai Padang
24 Pasar Raya..................................33 B2
ia
reja

10 Jl Hayam
s

Wuruk inoto Plaza Andalas.............................34 B3

roam
Jl N

Cok Plaza Matahari...........................35 B2

OS
iag

Jl H
a

26
TRANSPORT
32 Jl 8 Chinese
Air Asia......................................36 B3
4 Ni Temple
pa
h
Be
Boats to Pulau Siberut................37 B4
ro Garuda......................................38 C2
k 25
Arau rau Mandala Air................................39 B1
Taman Gunung Jl Ba
tang ng A atu Opelet Terminal.........................40 B3
Padang ga i Bata B
ng Sriwijaya Air...............................41 C3
Siti Sun pu
Nurbaya (400m) am Taxi Stand..................................42 B3
37 Jl K
 422 W E S T S U MAT R A • • Pa d a n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

PADANG EARTHQUAKE 2009

At 5.16pm on 30 September 2009, the city of Padang was devastated by a 7.6 magnitude earth­
quake that struck 57km southwest of Pariaman. At the time of going to print it was estimated that
as many as 5000 people had been killed. Several places reviewed in this section were destroyed,
including hotels, restaurants and hospitals. Some of these places will rise again, others won’t. It’s
strongly advised to check the situation before you arrive.
Some remote villages in the Kerinci region were wiped out completely from landslides, while
Mentawai, Bungus, Bukittinggi and Danau Maninjau escaped relatively unscathed.

BNI bank (Jl Bundo Kandung) Festivals & Events

BRI bank (Jl Sudirman) Don’t miss the colourful dragon-boat festival
held annually at the beginning of August to
TELEPHONE commemorate the city’s founding.
Mobile phones have killed the wartel scene. The highlight of the West Sumatran cultural
It’s easier to purchase a pre-paid SIM and calendar is Pesta Budaya Tabuik (derived from the
borrow a handset from your hotel. Islamic festival of Tabut), held at the seaside
Telkom wartel (cnr Jl Ahmad Dahlan & Khatib Sulaiman; town of Pariaman, 36km north of Padang. It
h24hr) Huge Minangkabau-style building located north takes place at the beginning of the month of
of the city centre. Muharam (based on the Islamic lunar calendar,
usually January or February) to honour the
TOURIST INFORMATION martyrdom of Muhammed’s grandchildren,
Tourism Padang (Dinas Kebudayaan Dan Pariwisata; Hassan and Hussein, at the battle of Kerbala.
%34186; www.tourism.padang.go.id; Jl Samudera 1; Central to the festival is the bouraq, a
SUMATRA

h8am-2.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Keep repeating ‘tour­ winged horse-like creature with the head of a
ist information’ and eventually someone will give you an woman, which is believed to have descended
informative booklet. The website has a handy list of events. to earth to collect the souls of dead heroes and
take them to heaven.
Sights & Activities
Padang’s colonial quarter around Jl Batang Arau Sleeping
is laden with old Dutch and Chinese ware­ Hotels don’t age well in Sumatra. Prepare to
houses backing onto a river brimming with pay for comfort and location; always ask for
fishing boats. The beach along Jl Samudera a ‘discount’ and whether breakfast, tax and
is the best place to watch the sunset. service charges are included.
Adityawarman Museum (Jl Diponegoro; admis­
sion 1500Rp; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun), built in the BUDGET & MIDRANGE
Minangkabau tradition, has pleasant Hotel Tiga Tiga (%22173; Jl Veteran 33; r incl breakfast
grounds, though non-Bahasa speakers may 55,000-125,000Rp plus 10% tax; a) North of the cen­
find the dusty collections detailing everyday tre, this old travellers’ dosser has cheap, simple
Minangkabau life rather dry. The entrance is rooms only five minutes’ walk from the sea.
on Jl Gereja. Grab any white opelet heading up Jl Permuda.
Taman Budaya Cultural Centre (%22752; www Immanuel Hotel (%28560; Jl Hayam Wuruk 43; r incl
.tamanbudaya-sumbar.org; Jl Diponegoro 31) stages spo­ breakfast 100,000-250,000Rp; a) Another travellers’
radic dance performances, poetry readings, standby, centrally located with simple rooms,
plays and art exhibitions. The events sched­ helpful cheery staff and a welcome garden.
ule is posted outside the building and on the oSpice Homestay (%841388; spicehomey@
website. yahoo.com; Jl Dobi 34; r incl breakfast 110,000-330,000Rp plus
10% tax; ai) Fabulous tiny Balinese-style
Tours losmen in the centre, with beautiful rooms, a
Padang is the launching point for tours of the cosy lounge and great food.
Mentawai Islands, famous for their hunter- Wisma Mayang Sari (%23555; Jl Sudirman 19; r
gatherer culture, endemic flora and fauna, 130,000-330,000Rp plus 15% tax; a) If only it were in
and world-class surfing. See p425 for more the centre. Nice clean airy rooms with a leafy
information. courtyard, stuck on a busy road to the north.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels W E S T S U MAT R A • • Pa d a n g 423

Sriwijaya Hotel (%21942; thesriwijayahotel.com; Jl Bumiminang Hotel (%37555; www.bumiminang

Veteran 26; r incl breakfast 250,000-325,000Rp; a) If the .com; Jl Bundo Kandung 20-28; r incl breakfast from 816,000­
Tiga’s too grungy, then try this newbie across 6,900,000Rp plus 21% tax; ais) The most ex­
the road. Beautiful modern rooms look onto pensive pad in town has a business centre and
a quiet courtyard, and the ocean is (almost) other trappings of the rich and powerful.
close enough to smell.
Hotel Nuansa (%26000; Jl Samudera 12; r incl breakfast Eating & Drinking
220,000-320,000Rp plus 10% tax; a) Fantastic loca­ Start with the cuisine that conquered a nation,
tion opposite the main beach, though only the from these excellent proponents: Pagi Sore (Jl
flashest rooms have a view. Pondok 143; dishes 8000Rp), Sari Raso (%33498; Jl Karya
3; dishes 10,000Rp) and Simpang Raya (Jl Bundo Kandung;
TOP END dishes 8000Rp).
Depending on the season, these hotels may offer Taman Ria Pantai Padang (Jl Samudera; mains 6000­
big discounts, which bring the cheaper rooms 8000Rp; hdinner) Serves standard dishes with
back into the realms of mere mortals (check that excellent sea views.
tax and service are still included). Mirama Cafe (%23237; [email protected];
Hotel Inna Muara (%35600; www.innamuara.com; Jl Jl Gereje 38; mains 21,000Rp) Offers pricey, blanded­
Gereja 34; r incl breakfast 625,000-850,000Rp; ai) The down versions of Indonesian standards in a
faux Minangkabau is a little tired, but with a dis­ nice outdoor setting.
count the economy rooms aren’t bad value. Nelayan Restaurant (Jl Samudera; mains 25,000Rp)
Ambacang Hotel (%39888; www.theambacanghotel Does great seafood the Chinese way.
.com; Jl Bundo Kandung 14-16; r incl breakfast from 650,000­ oIkan Bakar ‘Pak Agus’ (%823 1799; Jl H
1,500,000Rp plus 21% tax; ai) Sumptuous rooms, O S Cokroaminoto 91; set meals from 25,000Rp) Pak Agus
a day spa and the best nightclub in town. flames his dead sea creatures to perfection.

SUMATRA
MEET BREAKFAST, LUNCH & DINNER: PADANG CUISINE
Eating in a foreign land just got a whole lot easier thanks to Padang cuisine. Forget about pointing
at a pot or snooping at your neighbour’s meal. With Padang cuisine, you sit down and the whole
kit and caboodle gets laid out in front of you. You decide which ones look tasty and push the
others aside. You pay for what you eat – nibbling, sniffing and fondling included.
The drawback is that you never really know what you’re eating, since there’s no menu. If the
dish contains liquid, it is usually a coconut-milk curry, a major component of Padang cuisine. The
meaty dishes are most likely beef or buffalo, occasionally offal or (less likely) even dog. Some of
the fun of Padang-ing is identifying the mystery meat. Because most dishes are cooked slowly
and thoroughly, the difference between chicken and certain types of fish isn’t so obvious.
The most famous Padang dish is rendang, in which chunks of beef or buffalo are simmered
slowly in coconut milk until the sauce is reduced to a rich paste and the meat becomes dark
and dried. Other popular dishes include telor balado (egg dusted with red chilli), ikan panggang
(fish baked in coconut and chilli) and gulai merah kambing (red mutton curry).
Most couples pick one or two meat dishes and a vegetable, usually kangkong (water spinach),
and load up with a plate or two of rice. Carbs are manna in Padang cuisine. Vegetarians should
ask for tempeh or tahu (tofu), which comes doctored up in a spicy sambal. The orphan dishes are
collected and returned to the display window, protected from curious flies by a lacy curtain.
Before digging into the meal – and we mean this literally, as your right hand is your utensil –
wash up in the provided bowl of water. Food and sauces should be spooned onto your plate of
rice, then mixed together with the fingers. The rice will be easier to handle if it is a little wet.
Use your fingers to scoop up the food, and your thumb to push it into your mouth. It is messy
even for people raised on it.
Padang cuisine has an earthy spiciness that might need a little sweet tea or water as a chaser.
There is usually a tumbler of lukewarm water (a sign that it has been boiled for sterilisation) on
the table.
After you’ve slurped and sucked your plate clean, wash up, let out a burp (or don’t be surprised
if your neighbour does) and fire up a cigarette.
 424 W E S T S U MAT R A • • Pa d a n g lonelyplanet.com

The seafood is delivered fresh every afternoon. BOAT

A set meal contains a whole barbecued fish, Padang has three commonly used ports.
sides, rice and a drink. Depending on the tide, boats to Siberut and
Jl Sumadera and Jl Batang Arau are full other Mentawai islands will leave from either
of cheap warungs that spring to life at night, the river mouth (Sungai Muara) on Sungai
while discerning foodies head for Jl Pondok Batang Arau, just south of Padang’s city cen­
and Jl H O S Cokroaminoto. Juice wagons tre, or from Teluk Kabung port at Bungus,
loiter near the end of Jl Hayam Wuruk. Grab 20km (45 minutes) away. Check the boat’s
a snack from the carts at the opelet station departure point with your travel agent on
opposite the market. If pastries are your thing, sailing day.
try France Modern Bakery (Jl Batang Arau; mains 2000Rp) Teluk Bayur is the commercial freight port
or any of the Tokyo Bakery franchises. 8km from town and receives a monthly Pelni
Fellas (Jl Hayam Wuruk 47;W) is a Western-style (%61624; www.pelni.co.id) ship, MV Lawit, to/from
wi-fi cafe by day; the evenings see it fill with Nias (economy/1st class 109,000/353,000Rp,
trendy young locals sucking on hookahs and 20 hours).
tourists getting liquored.
BUS
Shopping The days of heading 12km out of town to the
Pasar Raya (Jl Pasar Raya) – literally ‘big market’ – Bengkuang terminal at Aie Pacah are over.
is the centre of Padang’s shopping universe; Most locals prefer to take minivans directly
most traveller necessities can be found here. from Padang and, depending on your desti­
Across the street, Plaza Matahari specialises nation, these vans will even pick you up from
in women’s clothes, while the nearby Plaza your hotel.
Andalas (Jl M Yamin) is the place to hunt out a Vans depart frequently for Bukittinggi
new cell phone. All three have a food court (16,000Rp, two hours), from the city’s north­
SUMATRA

on their top floor. ern fringes. Tranex (%705 8577) has a depot 2km
north of the Pangeran Beach Hotel, opposite
Getting There & Away the Indah Theatre. Catch any white opelet
AIR (2000Rp) heading north on Jl Permuda and
Padang’s airport, Bandara Internasional Minang­ ask for ‘Tranex’. If coming from the airport
kabau (BIM; off Jl Adinegoro) is located 20km north and heading straight to Bukittinggi, take
of town. The following airlines operate in­ any bus from the terminal and alight at the
ternational and domestic flights. There is a motorway overpass (2km), where there’s a
100,000Rp departure tax on international pickup area.
flights. Vans for Kerinci go to Sungai Penuh
Air Asia (%021 5050 5088; Hotel Huangtuah, Jl Pemuda
(70,000Rp, six hours) and leave from the same
1) Flies twice daily to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
depot as Tranex.
Batavia Air (%41502; www.batavia-air.co.id; Jl Khatib
Vans to other destinations including
Sulaiman 63C) Flies three times daily to Jakarta.
Parapat (for Danau Toba, 350,000Rp, 17
Fireflyz (www.fireflyz.com.my) Has a daily propel­ hours), Bengkulu (155,000Rp, 16 hours) and
ler flight to Kuala Lumpur domestic airport (Subang),
Sibolga (for Nias, 150,000Rp, 12 hours) will
Malaysia.
pick up from your hotel.
Garuda (%30737; www.garuda-indonesia.com; Jl
For Medan and Jakarta, it’s cheaper and
Sudirman 2) Operates three flights daily to Jakarta.
faster to fly.
Lion Air (%786 4781; www.lionair.co.id; BIM) Flies to

Jakarta four times daily.

Getting Around
Mandala Air (%39737; www.mandalaair.com; Jl
Airport taxis start from 100,000Rp. White
Veteran 20C) Flies daily to Jakarta, Medan and Batam.
Damri (%780 6335) buses (18,000Rp) are a
SMAC (%0813 6358 8828; BIM) Flies three times a week
cheaper alternative and loop through Padang.
to Pulau Sipora in the Mentawai Islands.
Tell the conductor your street and they’ll
Sriwijaya Air (%811 777; www.sriwijayaair-online
drop you at the right stop. Heading to the
.com; Jl Proklamasi 39, Terandam) Daily flights to Jakarta
airport, they pass by Bumiminang Hotel and
and Medan.
Jl Pemuda/Veteran. From Bukittinggi alight
Tiger Airways (www.tigerairways.com) Flights to
at the motorway overpass and take an ojek
Singapore on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.
to the terminal.
lonelyplanet.com W E S T S U MAT R A • • A r o u n d Pa d a n g 425

There are numerous opelet around town, To reach Pantai Bungus, take a blue opelet
operating out of the Pasar Raya terminal off labelled ‘Kabung Bungus’ (8000Rp, 60 min­
Jl M Yamin. The standard fare is 2000Rp. utes) or a taxi (100,000Rp).
Motorcycle rental is from 80,000Rp per day. Pasir Jambak is the best of several beaches
north of Padang. Uncle Jack’s (%787 4719; r per per­
AROUND PADANG son with meals 90,000Rp) has basic huts among the
Beaches palms just behind the beach. Jack can organise
If Padang’s traffic is frying your brains, or snorkelling trips to nearby Pulau Sawo. He’ll
you’re waiting for a boat, kick back on one of also do airport transfers for 50,000Rp.
the nearby beaches. Pantai Bungus, 23km south Opelet 423 will get you to the turnoff
of Padang, is conveniently close to the ferry for 5000Rp, but you’ll have to take an ojek
port of Teluk Kabung, but still sufficiently (7000Rp) the rest of the way.
relaxed to unkink the most frazzled. There’s
a host of nearby islands to explore, plus the MENTAWAI ISLANDS
odd gem in the hinterland. Though not a great distance from the main­
Losmen Carlos (%751 153; Pantai Bungus; r 100,000­ land, Mentawai Islands and its people were
150,000Rp) has great beachside rooms and a laid- kept isolated until the 19th century by strong
back vibe. It runs tours (200,000Rp) to Pulau winds, unpredictable currents and razor-
Pagang and Pulau Sironjong, and can organise sharp corals.
Siberut guides and trips to the hinterland. It’s thought that the archipelago separated
Tin Tin Homestay (%0812 6683 6668; losmen-tintin from Sumatra some 500,000 years ago, re­
.tripod.com; r 50,000Rp) is a small, quiet family-run sulting in such unique flora and fauna that
losmen with basic, netted rooms, situated sees Mentawai ranked alongside Madagascar
400m south of Losmen Carlos. Also offers in terms of endemic primate population. Of
island tours. particular interest is Siamang kerdil, a rare

SUMATRA
Pulau Pagang is beautiful small island, 90 species of black and yellow monkey, named
minutes offshore, with white sandy beaches simpai Mentawai by the locals.
and a handful of basic bungalows. It’s pos­ The largest island, Siberut, is home to the
sible to rent a boat from Bungus and stay majority of the Mentawai population and is
the night. Ask at your losmen, or among the the most studied and protected island in the
local fishermen. archipelago. About 60% of Siberut is still cov­
Pulau Sikuai and Pulau Cubadak both have ex­ ered with tropical rainforest, which shelters a
pensive resorts. Cubadak Paradiso Village (%081 rich biological community that has earned it
2660 3766; www.cubadak-paradisovillage.com) is the bet­ a designation as a Unesco biosphere reserve.
ter of the two; it also has a dive school (%081 The western half of the island is protected as
2663 7609). the Siberut National Park (TNS).
Further south is Pulau Marak, which has a Pulau Sipora is home to Tua Pejat, the seat
simiang (black gibbon) rehabilitation centre of regional government and a surfer drop-off
and miles of undisturbed coastline. While point. The archipelago’s airport is located at
not officially open to the public, it’s worth Rokot. With only 10% original rainforest re­
asking around. maining, it’s also the most developed of the
Back on the mainland, and close to Teluk Mentawai islands.
Kabung, the spectacular three-storey waterfall Further south are the Pulau Pagai islands –
Air Terjun Tiga Tingkat (Three Tier Waterfall) is found Utara (North) and Selatan (South), which
in the village of Koto Lubuk Hitam. rarely see independent travellers.
Jembatan Akar (Bridge of Roots; Pulut-Pulut) is a liv­ Change has come quickly to Mentawai.
ing bridge over the Bayang River made from Tourism, logging, transmigrasi (a government-
the entwined roots of weeping fig trees. Follow sponsored scheme enabling settlers to move
the highway south through Tarusan towards from overcrowded regions to sparsely populated
Painan, and turn left after Pasar Baru onto ones) and other government-backed attempts
the Muara Air road, heading for Kampong to mainstream the culture have separated the
Pulut-Pulut. The narrow road follows a sce­ people from the jungle and whittled the jungle
nic valley for another 23km. There’s a small into profit. It isn’t what it used to be, but it is a
warung at the bridge. Transport can be ar­ long way from being like everywhere else. And
ranged in Painan. that keeps trekkers happily braving mud and
��
426 W E S T S U MAT R A • • M e n t a w a i I s l a n d s lonelyplanet.com

bugs to visit the remaining traditional com­

MENTAWAI ISLANDS munities. Surfers comprise the other Mentawai­

��
0 30 km
0 20 miles
bound pilgrims, many of whom rank Mentawai
as the ride of their life. Slowly but surely resorts
are grabbing a beachhead and starting a crab-
Muara Siger like march against the forest, though with rising
Sikabaluan
Boats to
sea levels, nothing is guaranteed.
Padang

Pokhai
Information
The islands are very undeveloped. Bring all
Interisl

Siberut
National Park
necessities and plenty of cash.
and Ferry

Selat Siberut National Park ( TNS; Sejeterah; %0759­

Mentawai
Muara Saibi 21109; h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
Muara Simatalu The park office, a 10-minute ojek ride from the ferry jetty,
Pulau
Siberut
Boats to is only useful if you speak Bahasa.
Padang

Rodok
Activities
Muara Siberut
Tiap
TREKKING
Taieleo The river scene from Apocalypse Now flashes
Masalot Island
E-Bay
into your mind as you head upstream in a long­
Nipussi
Pitstops
Pulau
Masokut
boat and watch the people and villages growing
Playgrounds Pulau
Mainuk
wilder by the minute. Soon you’re out of the
Pulau
Karangmajat
Hideaways
Selat
canoe and following some shaman-eyed tribes­
Bungalaut man with crazy tattoos and a loincloth through
Pulau Awera Boats to the mud for the next few hours, passing water­
SUMATRA

Iceland Padang
Telescopes Pulau Simakakang
Suicides falls, balancing on slippery tree branches and
Tua Pejat
Scarecrows Sigoisooinan swimming across rivers, to his humble abode
Siberimanua on poles in the middle of nowhere.
Seven Palm Point
Maileppet
Sioban Boats to There’s been fervent discussion about the
Padang
Pulau
Sipora authenticity of these trips, and what actually
constitutes a traditional lifestyle. The mud
Beriolou
Pulau Siduamata is real, and so are the tattoos – decide for
Lance's Katiet yourself.
In the past, mainland tour agencies had a
Selat Sipura stranglehold on the tourist dollar, but times
Pasar Puat
have changed. It is infinitely more flexible,
rewarding and sustainable to turn up at
Pulau Silabusabeu Pulau
Pagai
Muara Siberut independently and tailor a
Silabus Utara Boats to
Padang
trek to remote communities, than it is to be
Macca's Taikaguru
Macca's Right
locked into a 10-day mainland-organised tour
Bommie Peak
Giligans
Sikakap
with a horde of strangers following a well-
trodden route. Ask around at the jetty cafes
Simakalo
in Maileppet and Muara Siberut. Prices start
around 100,000Rp per day, but don’t include
Pulau
Pagai transport, food, accommodation or tips.
Thunders Selatan
Rags
Clarify exactly what is and isn’t included.
Screamers
Bubuget If you prefer a mainland-organised
Turuns Pulau trek, prices in Bukittinggi start at around
Kimbles Taitaitanopo
US$225/250 for six/10 days and normally in­
INDIAN The Hole clude a guide, accommodation, food and trans­
OCEAN port. However, always check for any additional
costs. Guides also hang around some of the
losmen in Bungus, waiting for a boat home,
Pulau Sanding
and most hotels in Padang also offer tours.
For more on hiring guides, see p822.
lonelyplanet.com W E S T S U MAT R A • • M e n t a w a i I s l a n d s 427

Trekking Essentials Chloroquine-resistant malaria still exists

Dress for mud wrestling. Most of your gear on Siberut, so take appropriate precautions,
will get trashed, so bring as little as possible; though Surf Aid (www.surfaidinternational.org) has
electronic items have a particularly high at­ been actively working to limit its spread.
trition rate. Bear in mind you may need to DDT-strength insect repellent is advisable.
swim the odd river. Sanitation is poor, with the local river serving
Double bag everything in plastic bags and all purposes, so bring as much bottled water
try to keep one set of clothes dry for evening as you can.
use. Don’t walk in beach sandals – one foot May is generally the driest month, while
into deep bog and you’ll never see them again. October and November are the wettest – but
However, if you dislike having pig excrement it can rain any time. The seas between Siberut
between your toes, you might find them useful and the mainland can get very rough in June
around the communities in the evenings. and July, when it can be too dangerous to
Travel light. Large packs are a hindrance sail.
and anything tied to the outside is a goner. You can buy most supplies in Muara
Forget rain gear, just accept that you’re going Siberut, but they are much cheaper in
to get wet. Bring a mosquito net if trekking Padang. You’ll also need items for barter
independently; tour group accommodation and gifts. You will be pestered for cigarettes,
should supply them (though check!). Water but day-to-day items might be more ap­
purification (tablets or Steripen) is recom­ propriate. Check with your guide what is
mended, as is a head torch. sustainable.

FIXERS – THE FINE ART OF FIXING A SURFING SAFARI

Surfers have latched onto what journalists and movie directors have known for years – if you

SUMATRA
need to get things done in a foreign country with the least amount of hassle, you need to find
a local ‘fixer’. Sure, you could just take an all-inclusive surf package with a tour company, but
these cost a lot of money (something surfers are traditionally reluctant to part with), and besides,
they lack a little, well, adventure.
A good fixer is worth their weight in gold. They will meet you at the airport and arrange por­
tage of all your boards and gear, take you somewhere to freshen up, show you where you can
procure various supplies (food, drinking water, beer – there’s none where you’re headed), then
get the whole lot to the port and safely stowed on the ferry. They will have already arranged
your arrival day to coincide with the ferry schedule, and secured you a cabin. On your return,
they’ll meet the ferry and get you and all your gear back to the airport.
You then need a second fixer out in the islands, who will meet your ferry, tee up a longboat,
ship your gear, and drop you at a cheap losmen or basic hut somewhere close to your favourite
break. They’ll even arrange a cook if you want one. Of course, all this costs money, and rest
assured, your fixer is taking a cut from everybody, but with careful planning and bargaining it’s
still going to be a whole lot cheaper than two weeks in a resort.
How do you find a fixer? Without any recommendations, your first trip will always be a learn­
ing curve and will involve equal quantities of patience, luck, and trial and error. Experienced
surfers come back year after year and use the same fixers, boat drivers and hut owners. All
business is conducted by mobile phone, and good fixers will also have email addresses. Ask
around your hotel – chances are that desk clerk actually came from village A and his best
mate now works in resort B and knows a boat driver who can hook you up with this guy who
owns a shack on island C. Watch closely what other groups are doing, maybe you can share
a taxi to the port, or bum a lift in a speedboat – all the time filling your mobile phone with
contact numbers.
Who are these fixers? A lot are or were students, looking for some extra cash and a chance to
practise their English/French/Portuguese. Some have worked in hotels and resorts and are well
connected, as are others who are native to the islands.
There’s nothing stopping you doing all this organising yourself, and the first time you probably
will, but it’s time and energy you’d most likely rather leave for the waves.
 428 W E S T S U MAT R A • • M e n t a w a i I s l a n d s lonelyplanet.com

THE MENTAWAIANS
The untouched, the unbaptised and the unphotographed have long drawn Westerners to distant
corners of the globe. And the Mentawaians have seen every sort of self-anointed discoverer: the
colonial entrepreneurs hoping to harness the land for profit, missionaries trading medicine for
souls, and modern-day tourists eager to experience life before the machine.
Very little is known about the origins of the Mentawaians, but it is assumed that they emigrated
from Sumatra to Nias and made their way to Siberut from there.
In 1864 the Mentawai archipelago was nominally made a Dutch colony, but it was not until
1901, during the Russo-Japanese War, that the Dutch placed a garrison on the islands to prevent
another foreign power using them as a naval base. In subsequent years it was the missionaries
who had the most influence on the Mentawai people, creating fundamental changes in their
culture.
At the time of contact with missionaries, the Mentawaians had their own language, adat
(traditional laws and regulations) and religion, and were skilled boat builders. They lived a hunter-
gatherer existence.
Traditional clothing was a loincloth made from the bark of the breadfruit tree for men and a
bark skirt for women. Mentawaians wore bands of red-coloured rattan, beads and imported brass
rings. They filed their teeth into points and decorated their bodies with tattoos.
After independence, the Indonesian government banned many of the Mentawaians’ customs,
such as tattoos, sharpened teeth and long hair. Although the ban has not been enforced, many
villagers have adopted modern fashions.
Traditional villages are built along riverbanks and consist of one or more uma (communal
house) surrounded by lalep (single-storey family houses). Several families live in the same build­
ing. Bachelors and widows have their own quarters, known as rusuk, identical to the family
SUMATRA

longhouse except they have no altar. Traditionally, the houses stand on wooden piles and are
windowless.
Although essentially patriarchal, society is organised on egalitarian principles. There are no
inherited titles or positions and no subordinate roles. It is the uma, not the village itself, which
is pivotal to society. It is here that discussions affecting the community take place. Everyone is
present at meetings, but the prominent men make most of the major decisions, including choos­
ing a rimata (the person who leads religious affairs and is the community’s spokesperson to the
outside world), building an uma, clearing a forest or laying out a banana plantation.

SURFING GlobalSurfers (www.globalsurfers.com)

Surfing is big business in Mentawai as the WannaSurf (www.wannasurf.com)

islands have consistent surf year-round at Lonely Planet Thorn Tree forum (www.lonelyplanet

hundreds of legendary breaks. The season .com/thorntree)

peaks between April and October.

In the past, charter boats were the pri­ Tours & Charters
mary means of reaching the top spots, but The following companies can arrange trek­
now land-based resorts have gained a toe­ king tours and surf charters.
hold, and many fly in clients on all-inclusive Bevys Sumatra (Map p421; %34878; bevyssumatra@
packages. yahoo.com; Jl Pondok 121, Padang) A Padang-based agent
With patience, attitude and a handful of who issues ferry tickets to Mentawai and organises trek­
contacts, however, it’s possible to put to­ king, surf and dive tours.
gether your own independent surfing safari Ina Tours (Map p421; %31669; Dipo International
for a fraction of the cost of a package tour Hotel, Jl Diponegoro 13, Padang) Located inside Dipo
(see the boxed text, p427). Losmen are blos­ Hotel in Padang, this agent organises Mentawai cultural
soming throughout Mentawai, and chartering tours.
a longboat is relatively easy. Check some of Sumatran Surfariis (Map p421; %34878; www.su
the more popular surfing blogs, or Lonely matransurfariis.com; Jl Pondok 121) Affiliated with Bevys,
Planet’s own Thorntree forum, for the latest Sumatran Surfariis operates a variety of surf-boat charters;
hotspots: packages start from US$1600 for a 10-day tour.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels W E S T S U MAT R A • • M e n t a w a i I s l a n d s 429

On such occasions, the people of the uma carry out a religious festival known as punen. This
usually involves ritual sacrifices of both pigs and chickens and, depending on the importance of
the occasion, the festival can last for months, sometimes years. All kinds of everyday jobs and
activities become taboo; work in the fields is stopped and strangers are denied access to the
uma, its isolation being marked by a cordon of palm leaves and flowers.
The native Sibulungan religion is a form of animism, involving the worship of nature spirits
and a belief in the existence of ghosts, as well as the soul. The chief nature spirits are those of
the sky, the sea, the jungle and the earth. The sky spirits are considered the most influential.
There are also two river spirits: Ina Oinan (Mother of Rivers) is beneficent, while Kameinan
(Father’s Sister) is regarded as evil. In addition, all inanimate objects have a kina (spirit), which
gives them life.
The worship of the soul is of utmost importance, being vital to good health and longevity.
The soul is believed to depart the body at various times during life before its ultimate escape
at death. Sickness, for example, is the result of the temporary absence of the soul; dreams also
signify that the soul is ‘on vacation’.
When the soul leaves the body at death it is transformed into a sanitu (ghost). Mentawaians try
to avoid these ghosts, whom they suspect of malevolently attempting to rob the living of their
souls. To protect themselves, they place fetish sticks at every entrance to the village. This tactic
is considered foolproof, provided no one has committed a ritual sin or broken a taboo.
German missionary August Lett was the first to attempt to convert the local people, but he
was not entirely successful: eight years after his arrival Lett was murdered by the locals. Somehow
the mission managed to survive and 11 baptisms had been recorded by 1916. There are now
more than 80 Protestant churches throughout the islands.

SUMATRA
More than 50 years after the Protestants, Catholic missionaries moved in to vie for converts.
They opened a mission – a combined church, school and clinic – in south Siberut. Free medi­
cines and clothes were given to any islander who became a Catholic, and by 1969 there were
almost 3000 converts.
Islam began to make inroads when government officials were regularly appointed from Padang
during the Dutch era, and then to complicate religious matters further, the Baha’í faith was
introduced in 1955. Today more than half the population claims to be Protestant, 16% Catholic
and 13% Muslim, while the rest have no official religion.

Sleeping You don’t have to be a surfer to enjoy

Along with transport, accommodation will be the pristine beach protected by a lagoon at
your primary expense in Mentawai. Trekking Masalot Island, an hour from Muara Siberut.
guides will organise family homestays. Most Boatmen from Siberut can arrange a local
of the private surf resorts don’t accept short- homestay.
term stays (less than seven days). However, Katiet, at the bottom of Pulau Sipora and
there are alternatives. home of the classic Lance’s breaks, also has
If you’re stuck in Muara Siberut without a a few losmen. Catch a ferry from Bungus to
guide, there is very basic accommodation at Sioban, then try to find a speedboat (seat/whole
the Sirruhuudin Hotel (r 25,000Rp) on the water­ boat 50,000/400,000Rp) heading south. Saturday
front (next to the pink Telkom shop), as well (market day) is your best bet.
as the odd homestay (ask around the pasar). If you want wi-fi, three meals a day and hot
There are basic losmen around most of the showers, then bite the resort bullet. Transport
Mentawai ports, and simple beach huts (with/ from the mainland is normally included.
without cook from 175,000/75,000Rp) have Wavepark Resort (Pulau Mainuk; % 081 2663
sprung up around E-Bay and Playgrounds, to the 5551; www.wavepark.com; minimum 7-night package,
south of Siberut. Bring all your supplies, drink­ per day US$245) The first land-based resort on
ing water and mosquito nets. To get there, either Mentawai, Wavepark has a front-row view of
bum a lift off another group, or charter your a Hideaways. Rates include flights to and from
longboat from Muara Siberut (see p431). the mainland.
 430 W E S T S U MAT R A • • M e n t a w a i I s l a n d s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Macaroni’s Resort (Pulau Pagai Utara; %081374429357 Getting There & Away
www.macaronisresort.com; minimum 8-day package surfer/ Subang Merauke Airways (SMA, previously SMAC;%0813
nonsurfer US$1525/1245; W) Bamboo villas built 6358 8828) flies to Pulau Sipora (Rotok) on
over the water; it’s a quick speedboat transfer Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday (without/
to Macca’s and Macca’s Right. with surfboard 800,000/1,600,000Rp).
Aloita Resort & Spa (Pulau Simakakang; %34878; As there is no longer a speedboat, all ferries
www.aloitaresort.com; minimum 3-night package, per day to Mentawai charge the same price (deck/
surfer/nonsurfer US$220/165) Eight bungalows oc­ cabin 105,000/125,000Rp) and usually take 10
cupy a private beach within shuttle’s reach of hours. Unless you enjoy being squashed into a
Telescopes and Iceland. Also offers scuba div­ corner on a hard floor and continually tram­
ing and certification. Book through Bevys. pled under the glare of the passage lights, pay
Kandui Resort (Pulau Karangmajat;%US 1714 478 extra for a cabin. All boats run overnight, and
2487; www.mentawaiislands.com; minimum 10-night usually return the following evening (unless
package from US$2350;W) Self-contained, wi-fi­ continuing). The ferry schedules are changing
enabled thatched bungalows with access to 4 constantly so always check what’s available
Bobs and A-Frames. Price does not include on arrival in Padang. See below for the ferry
transport. schedule.
Pitstop Hill Resort (Pulau Masokut, aka Nyang Nyang; Tickets can be bought from Bevys Sumatra
www.pitstophill.com; per day from A$150) Sleeps six in (Map p421; %34878; Jl Pondok 121). Remember to
a central house near the break of the same check which Padang port to leave from (see
name. Close to E-Bay. p424)
Awera Island Surf Camp (Pulau Awera; www.awerais
land.com; per day from US$105;) This small low-key Getting Around
resort near Iceland sleeps six in twin-bunk Boats to Siberut arrive at the jetty in Maileppet.
dorms. Transport to the island not included. It’s a 10-minute ojek ride (15,000Rp) to the
SUMATRA

FERRY SCHEDULE TO/FROM MENTAWAI ISLANDS

Day Boat From To
Mon Ambu-Ambu Tua Pejat Padang
Beriloga Sikakap Padang
Simasin Sikabaluan Siberut–Tua Pejat–Padang
Sumber Rezeky Padang Siberut
Tue Ambu-Ambu Padang Sikakap
Beriloga Padang Sikabaluan–Siberut
Sumber Rezeky Siberut Padang
Wed Ambu-Ambu Sikakap Padang
Beriloga Siberut Padang
Sumber Rezeky Padang Tua Pejat
Thu Ambu-Ambu Padang Tua Pejat#
Ambu-Ambu Padang Siberut*
Beriloga Padang Sikabaluan–Tua Pejat
Simasin Padang Sikabaluan–Siberut
Sumber Rezeky Tua Pejat Padang
Fri Ambu-Ambu Siberut* Padang
Ambu-Ambu Tua Pejat# Padang
Beriloga Sikabaluan Padang
Simasin Siberut Padang
Sumber Rezeky Padang Sioban–Tua Pejat
Sat Sumber Rezeky Tua Pejat Sioban–Padang
Sun Ambu-Ambu Padang Tua Pejat
Beriloga Padang Sikakap
Simasin Padang Tua Pejat–Siberut–Sikabaluan
# - weeks 1 & 4
* - weeks 2 & 3
lonelyplanet.com W E S T S U MAT R A • • B u k i t t i n g g i 431

Such is the incongruity of modern

FERRY SCHEDULE AROUND MENTAWAI Bukittinggi, blessed by nature, choked by mor­
ISLANDS tals. Lush. Fertile. Busy. And at 930m above sea
Day From To level, deliciously temperate all year round.
The town (alternatively named Tri Arga,
Mon Tua Pejat Sioban–Pasar

Puat–Sikakap
referring to the triumvirate of peaks) has had
Tue Sikakap Pasar
Puat– a chequered history, playing host at various
Sioban–Tua Pejat times to Islamic reformists, Dutch colonials,
Wed Tua Pejat Maulimuk–Siberut–
Japanese invaders and Sumatran separatists.
Sikabaluan Bukittinggi was once a mainstay of the ba­
Thu Sikabaluan Siberut–Maulimuk–
nana-pancake trail, but regional instability,
Tua Pejat shorter visas, and the rise of low-cost air-car­
Fri Tua Pejat Sioban–Pasar
riers have seen the traveller tide reduced to a
Puat–Sikakap low ebb. However, locals are optimistic that
Sat Sikakap Pasar
Puat–Sioban– the worst is over, and that numbers may again
Tua Pejat be on the increase.

main village of Muara Siberut, where longboats

Orientation
The town centre is compact and most items
can be hired. Sample charter fees (up to five
of interest are easily reached on foot. By day,
passengers) include the following:
the pasar and clock-tower end is bustling. In
Muara Siberut to E-Bay 600,000Rp (1½ hours)
the evenings the focus shifts to the bottom of Jl
E-Bay to Playgrounds 300,000Rp (30 minutes)
Ahmad Yani, where warungs open and travel­
Playgrounds to Tua Paget 1,200,000Rp (2½ hours)
lers sip their drinks after a hard day’s touring.
Sioban to Katiet 400,000Rp (two hours)
The Aur Kuning bus terminal is 2km south

SUMATRA
of the town centre.
In theory it’s possible to island hop from
Siberut all the way to Tua Pejat on Sipora
via E-Bay and Playgrounds, but in reality it Information
would work out cheaper (because you would INTERNET ACCESS & POST
have to keep the same boat or risk getting Internet cafes abound on Jl Ahmad Yani.
stranded) to return to Muara Siberut and take Orange99.net (Jl Ahmad Yani; per hr 4000Rp; h10am­
the inter-island ferry. See above for the ferry late) Two locations.

schedule. Harau Internet (Jl Ahmad Yani; per hr 4000Rp)

Every Monday the KM Sibulat departs from Turret Cafe (%625 956; Jl Ahmad Yani 140-142;

Tua Pejat and winds its way through the is­ internet access per hr 6000Rp)

lands. Tickets are 35,000Rp for one stop and Post office (Jl Sudirman; internet access per hr 6000Rp)

the boat leaves at 9am each day. South of town, near the bus terminal.

BUKITTINGGI MEDICAL SERVICES

%0752 / pop 95,000 Rumah Sakit Sayang Bari (Jl Dr Rivai)
Early on a bright, clear morning, the market
town of Bukittinggi sits high above the val­ MONEY
ley mists as three sentinels – fire-breathing Banks and ATMs are scattered along Jl Ahmad
Merapi, benign Singgalang and distant Sago – Yani.
all look on impassively. Sun-ripened crops Lippo bank (Jl Ahmad Yani)
grow fat in the rich volcanic soil, as frogs call BNI Bank (Jl Lenggogeni)
in the paddies, bendis haul goods to the pasar, BRI bank (Jl Ahmed Yani)
and the muezzin’s call sits lightly on the town. BRI bank (Jl Istana)
Modern life seems far removed.
Until 9am. Then the traffic starts up, and TELEPHONE
soon there’s a mile-long jam around the bus There are still a few wartel around town.
terminal and the air turns the colour of diesel. Wartel (Jl Yos Sudarso, next to Hotel Sari)
The mosques counter the traffic by cranking Wartel (Jl Ahmad Yani, near Aladdin Antiques)
their amps to eleven, while hotel staff try to Wartel (Jl Ahmad Yani, near Apache Cafe)
pass off cold bread and jam as breakfast. Wartel (Jl Sudirman, past the Tourist Office)
 432 W E S T S U MAT R A • • B u k i t t i n g g i lonelyplanet.com

0 200 m
BUKITTINGGI 0 0.1 miles

A B C D
To Bukik Ambacang (5km);
INFORMATION Sibolga (285km)
BNI Bank......................................1 C4
BRI Bank......................................2 C2 Jl K
BRI Bank......................................3 C3 ese

Jl Vete
1 hat
an
Canyon Cafe............................(see 31) Jl Ke s ehat
Harau Internet.............................4 C2 an

ran
Lippo Bank...................................5 C2
Orange99net...............................6 C2
Orange99net...............................7 C2 25 23 Jl Pe
28 mu da
Orchid Hotel............................(see 27) 38
Post Office...................................8 D5 15 4
10
PT Jogja Wisata Travel.................9 C3 16 29
Rumah Sakit Sayang Bayi...........10 B2 ATM - BNI
Tourist Office.............................11 C3
ai

6 Footbridge

Yani
iv

19
Turret Cafe..............................(see 38)
r R

g
Wartel.......................................12 C3
Jl D

nt en

Jl Ahmad
To Payakumbah (35km);
Wartel.......................................13 C3 5 Harau Valley (55km)
Be
2 Wartel........................................14 B3 Jl 30
Wartel.......................................15 C2 32 Museum
r
2 Entrance hri

o
ha

Jl C in urmat
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 43 45 tS
26
Benteng De Kock.......................16 C2
7 Pasar Jl S
Bawah

d
35 24 44 Masjid
Gua Jepang................................17 A5
Jl A Gloria
Jam Gadang...............................18 C3 31 Raya Cinema
Museum & Zoo..........................19 C2
hma
r Twice-Weekly
ma

u
Pasar Atas..................................20 D3 37 Market Area

aba
Jl Kesuma Kodva U
Karim

dY

u ku 27 33
Taman Panorama...................... 21 A5 Te
ngk
Jl
ani

ina 20
Jl A

Jl M

eh 42
enc
nR 34 40
Na 41
ku
Jl Y

3 eng 12
Jl T
os

3 36
Sud
SUMATRA

ATM - BNI 11
ars

Plaza 13
o

Bukittinggi 18
9
a
an

14 Ist

���
Jl
22
Jl Laras Dutuk Bandaro
39
Jl Lenggogeni

1
Jl Sudi rman

Jl H
Ag
4 us
Sali

���
m
Jl M

Pasar
Yam

Taman
Panorama
in

Jl S
ud
rama irm
ano an
21 Jl P
17

Ngarai
Sianok
5
SLEEPING
Hills............................................22 B3
Hotel Asia...................................23 C1
Hotel Khartini.............................24 C2 8
Jl S

To Aur Kuning
Lima's Hotel...............................25 C1
udir

Bus Station
Mountain View Hotel.................26 B2 (2km)
ma

Orchid Hotel..............................27 B3
n

Jl Nawawi
Rajawali Homestay.....................28 C1
Singgalang Hotel.......................29 C2 ENTERTAINMENT
Medan Nan Balinduang.............39 C4 Police
EATING Station
Bedudal Café.............................30 C2 SHOPPING
Canyon Cafe..............................31 B2 Aladdin Antiques.......................40 C3 Agam
ng
ata
Su

6 Gon Raya...................................32 C2 Makmur Arts.............................41 C3 Jl B

ng

Sederhang.................................33 C3 Markas Outdoor........................42 C3

ai

Selamat......................................34 C3 Minang Art................................43 C2

Si

Serba Cokelet.............................35 B2 Orange......................................44 C2

an
ok

Simpang Raya............................36 C3
Simpang Raya............................37 C3 TRANSPORT To Koto
Gadang (6km);
Turret Cafe.................................38 C1 Opelet Terminal.........................45 D2 Padang (89km)
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels W E S T S U MAT R A • • B u k i t t i n g g i 433

TOURIST INFORMATION to house the clock, a gift from the Dutch

Tourist Office (Jl Sudirman; h7.45am-3pm) Opposite queen; independence saw the retrofit of a
the clock tower; it’s got maps, tours and tickets to cultural Minangkabau roof.
events.
Tours
TRAVEL AGENCIES Local tours fall into two categories, culture
Bukittinggi has plenty of travel agencies, most or nature, and can range from a half-day
of them along Jl Ahmad Yani. meander through neighbouring villages to a
PT Jogja Wisata Travel (% 32634; Jl Perintis three-day jungle trek to Danau Maninjau, or
Kemerdekaan 17) At the bottom of the steps at an overnight assault on Gunung Merapi.
the clock-tower side of the market. Staff can Half-/full-day tours start at around
arrange airport transfers (40,000Rp) and 100,000Rp/175,000Rp, and multiday trekking
flights. is roughly 200,000Rp per day. Some tours
Some traveller hotels and cafes also act have a minimum quota, though the Orchid
as booking agents. The Orchid Hotel (%32634; Hotel runs solo tours by motorbike.
[email protected]; Jl Teuku Umar 11) and Canyon Guides hang out in all the cafes. Be clear
Cafe (%21652; www.seruling-travel.com; Jl Teuku Umar 8) about what you want and what is and isn’t
have previously proved reliable. included. If going solo, make sure somebody
knows who you’re going with.
Sights There’s a healthy climbing scene here and
Pasar Atas (located east of Jl Minangkabau) is a day on the cliffs is around US$35, but if you
a large, colourful market crammed with stalls can find some locals and avoid the entrepre­
selling fruit and vegetables, secondhand cloth­ neurs, it’ll work out cheaper.
ing and crafts. It’s open daily, but the serious
action is on Wednesday and Saturday, when Sleeping

SUMATRA
the stalls overflow down the hill and villagers Bukittinggi’s mosques have been strategically
from the surrounding area come to haggle located to saturate the entire town with the
and have a look around. predawn call to prayer.
Benteng de Kock (Benteng Fort; admission 5000Rp) Most hotels include a simple breakfast.
was built by the Dutch during the Padri Wars, Hotel tax is only applied to top-end options
but apart from the moat and a few rusting and can be negotiated. On holidays, rooms
cannons, there’s not much to see, other than fill quickly with Indonesian visitors. In
fine views over the town from its hilltop Bukittinggi’s temperate climate, hot water is
position. more desirable than air-con.
A footbridge crosses over Jl Ahmad Yani
to Taman Bundo Kandung, site of the mu­ BUDGET
seum and zoo. The museum, constructed in Rajawali Homestay (%26113; Jl Ahmad Yani 152; r
1934 in Minangkabau style, is the oldest in 50,000Rp) The rooms are basic but cosy in this
the province; admission is 2000Rp. The zoo tiny homestay right in the centre. The irre­
(included in the Benteng Fort admission) is pressible Ulrich is a fount of local knowledge
just depressing. and has detailed maps and advice on the area’s
Taman Panorama (Panorama Park; Jl Panorama; ad­ attractions.
mission 5000Rp), on the southern edge of town, Orchid Hotel (%32634; [email protected];
overlooks the deep Ngarai Sianok (Sianok Jl Teuku Umar 11; r cold/hot water 75,000/100,000Rp)
Canyon), where fruit bats swoop at sunset. Roni runs this popular backpacker inn that
Friendly guides will approach visitors – features clean rooms and a friendly atmos­
settle on a price before continuing (around phere, and he’s able to tailor a tour to almost
20,000Rp) to avoid misunderstandings later – anywhere.
to lead you through Gua Jepang (Japanese Caves), Singgalang Hotel (%21576; Jl Ahmad Yani 130; r
wartime defensive tunnels built by Japanese 120,000-150,000Rp) This basic cheapie is close to
slave labour. Jam Gadang (Big Clock Tower; btwn Jl the action.
Istana & Sudirman) is the town’s focal point, where Mountain View Hotel (%21621; Jl Yos Sodarso 31;
locals and tourists alike slurp ice creams and r 150,000Rp) In a stunning location with a huge
take snapshots under the leafy shade while garden and plenty of room for vehicles. The
vacant bendis look on. It was built in the 1920s simple rooms are great value.
 434 W E S T S U MAT R A • • B u k i t t i n g g i Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

MIXING BUSINESS WITH FRIENDSHIP

In Indonesia, the line between business and socialising isn’t as distinct as it is in the West.
We expect printed prices and obvious sales tactics. Without a price tag, we assume that it
is free or done out of friendship. On the other side of the cultural divide Sumatrans prefer
business to resemble friendship: a little chit-chat, a steady sales pitch, and a sort of telepathic
understanding that payment is expected. They’d rather be helpful instead of entrepreneurial,
but necessity dictates an income. The sluggish state of the Sumatran economy means that
unemployment is high, with an overload of young resourceful men supporting themselves by
guiding too few tourists.
Once you realise that nothing is gratis, ask about prices. Don’t assume that the quoted price is
all-inclusive. You are expected to buy lunch and drinking water for your guide. If transport isn’t
included in the initial price, you should pay for this as well. A tip at the end is also welcome.
Most are smokers and a pack costs about 10,000Rp. If all this seems steep, keep in mind that the
guides have a couple of crumpled rupiah to their name and not a lot of other opportunities.

MIDRANGE & TOP END Bedudal Café (Jl Ahmad Yani; mains from 20,000Rp) All
Hotel Asia (%625277; Jl Kesehatan 38; r incl breakfast 100,000­ the old favourites in a cosy, intimate atmos­
250,000Rp; a) Centrally located, the Asia offers phere, located on the main drag.
spotless rooms for a bargain price. The airy If you’re pizza’d out, there are plenty of
common balconies evoke a Himalayan vibe. nasi Padang options. Try tiny Sederhang
Hotel Khartini (%22885; Jl Teuku Umar 6; r incl break­ (Jl Minangkabau 63) and its mouth-watering
fast 150,000-250,000Rp) Clean, light-filled rooms, choices; Selamat (upper Jl Ahmad Yani), located
but it’s very close to the mosque. towards the clocktower; Gon Raya (Jl Ahmad
SUMATRA

Lima’s Hotel (%22641; www.limashotelbukittinggi Yani), in the middle of town; or either Simpang
.com; Jl Kesehatan 34; r incl breakfast 250,000-400,000Rp plus Raya (Jl Minangkabau) location. Dishes start at
10% tax) Great views down the valley from the 8000Rp.
side of the hill. The economy rooms are spot­ Need a chocolate muffin fix? Try the sub­
less and well appointed. lime offerings at Serba Cokelet (Jl Yos Sudarso 6A;
Hills (%35000; www.thehillshotel.com; Jl Laras Dutuk h8am-4pm).
Bandaro; r 800,000-4,000,000Rp plus 21% tax; asW) Jl Ahmad Yani comes alive at night with
Commanding the heights like a Moorish cita­ food stalls doing excellent sate and nasi/mie
del, and with more bling than a Paris catwalk, goreng. Locals rave about the sweet lon tong
the most expensive place in town is usually (a soupy concoction of coconut milk, rice,
full of VIPs and their security squads. At least egg and whatever else is handy) served in
grab a drink and watch the proceedings (or a no-name tent opposite the Singgalang
use the wi-fi). Hotel.

Eating Entertainment
Bukittinggi has always been the one place in Medan Nan Balinduang (Jl Lenggogeni; tickets 40,000Rp;
Sumatra where weary road bums can give %8.30pm) presents Minangkabau dance per­
their poor chilli-nuked organs a chance to re­ formances. Check with the tourist office for
cover, with lashings of lovingly bland western the latest schedule.
makan (food). OK, so sometimes the reality West Sumatrans love a good bullfight,
doesn’t quite fit the dream, but hey, what did known locally as adu kerbau. Unlike
you expect? Spanish bullfighting, there is no (intended)
Canyon Cafe (%21652; Jl Teuku Umar 8; mains from bloodshed and the water-buffalo bulls are
15,000Rp) Still playing Credence and waiting normally unharmed. Two animals of simi­
for the tide to change, but the food’s always lar size and weight lock horns in a trial of
good. strength. Whichever doesn’t retreat, wins.
Turret Cafe (%625 956; Jl Ahmad Yani 140-142; mains Unfortunately, West Sumatrans also love a
from 20,000Rp;i) Good food, relaxed outdoor good punt, and betting reached such a frenzy
lounges, internet (per hour 6000Rp) and the that the provincial government banned bull­
best guacamole in town. fighting indefinitely.
lonelyplanet.com W E S T S U MAT R A • • A r o u n d B u k i t t i n g g i 435

However, where there’s a will, there’s a horse hours), Jambi (200,000Rp, 15 hours), Sungai
and Bukittinggi holds an annual race at Bukik Penuh for Kerinci (85,000Rp, 10 hours) and
Ambacang in early March. Horses are ridden Palembang (140,000Rp, 20 hours), but most
bareback and jockeys wear regional costumes, services leave from Padang.
vying to win kudos for their village, and some­
thing else for the onlookers’ wallets. Solok and Getting Around
Sawahlunto also hold annual races. Opelet cost 2000Rp. Bendi start from
10,000Rp. An ojek from the bus terminal
Shopping to the hotels costs 7,000Rp and a taxi costs
Bukittinggi is a great place to shop for both the 20,000Rp. Transfers direct to Padang airport
mundane and the bizarre: leather sandals, woven can be arranged from any travel agent for
bags, false teeth, silver, karabiners, skate wear, 40,000Rp.
batik shirts, antiques and curios. Box collectors
can look out for a couple of Minangkabau ver­ AROUND BUKITTINGGI
sions. Brass salapah panjang (long boxes) are While Bukittinggi is an interesting mar­
used for storing lime and tobacco, and silver ket town, visitors come to explore the
salapah padusi for betel nut and lime. Minangkabau countryside, hike up an active
Souvenir shops line Jl Minangkabau,while volcano or hunt for the fabled rafflesia.
upper Jl Ahmad Yani is full of trendy clothes
and antiques. Try Minang Art (%35662; Jl Handicraft Villages
Cindurmato 98A), Aladdin Antiques (%33593; Jl Ahmad Silversmiths occupy the old Dutch houses
Yani 14) or Makmur Arts (%22208; Jl Ahmad Yani 10). of Koto Gadang, 5km from Bukittinggi (opelet
For outdoor gear, check out Orange and 2000Rp). Alternatively, it’s an hour’s walk
Markas Outdoors, both on upper Jl Ahmad from Taman Panorama.
Yani. Pandai Sikat (Clever Craftsmen) is famous

SUMATRA
Beautiful red and gold Minangkabau for songket (silver- or gold-threaded cloth)
embroidery can be found in the pasar. weaving and woodcarving. The village is 13km
Pillowcases, slippers and ceremonial wedding from Bukittinggi. Take an opelet (5000Rp)
sashes all make easy-to-carry souvenirs. from Aur Kuning.

Getting There & Away Minangkabau Sights

The chaos of the Aur Kuning bus termi­ The rich volcanic soil of the hilly countryside
nal 2km south is easily reached by opelet around Bukittinggi oozes fertility. Stop by the
(2000Rp). Ask for ‘terminal’. Heading to town roadside and you can spot cinnamon, betel
ask for ‘Kampung China’. nut, avocado, coffee, mango and papaya trees.
Minivans run regularly to Padang Rice, tapioca and potatoes grow in terraces,
(16,000Rp, two hours) and Solok (16,000Rp, while bamboo waterwheels feed irrigation
two hours). Decrepit buses make the Danau ditches and drive wooden grinding mills.
Maninjau run (13,000Rp, 1½ hours), while a Hopefully, you’ll see a wedding parade.
taxi starts at 160,000Rp. The bride and groom, dressed in full tradi­
Trans-Sumatran buses also stop here, tional regalia, are accompanied by musicians,
though only zombies make it to Jakarta (from family members and half the village. The
250,000Rp, 35 hours); it’s quicker and cheaper Minangkabau tribal flags (red, black and yel­
to fly from Padang. Ditto for Medan (from low) typically mark the site of the festivities.
200,000Rp, 20 hours), though you could jump Rumah Gadang Pagaruyung (King’s Palace) was a
off at Parapat (from 170,000Rp, 16 hours) for scaled-down replica of the former home of the
Lake Toba. You’ll cross the equator en route, rulers of the ancient Minangkabau kingdom
near Bonjol. of Payaruyung. Unfortunately, a fire razed it
Minivans head west to Pekanbaru to the ground in 2007 and the reconstruction
(100,000Rp, five hours), and there’s a is still incomplete. Most tours now divert to
night bus direct to Dumai (110,000Rp, 10 Istano Silinduang Bulan (Silinduang Bulan; donation
hours) that connects with the Melaka ferry 2000Rp), the nearby Queen’s Palace. This build­
(250,000Rp, two hours). There is a handy ing is still used for important clan meetings,
bus to Sibolga (90,000, 12 hours) for Nias, and a small donation is expected. Both palaces
and a few buses to Bengkulu (150,000Rp, 18 are located in the village of Silinduang Bulan,
 436 W E S T S U MAT R A • • A r o u n d B u k i t t i n g g i lonelyplanet.com

5km north of Batu Sangkar, the heartland of alongside Danau Singkarak. The trip takes three
the red Tanah Datar clan of Minangkabau. hours (one way 60,000Rp, departs 7.30am)
Batu Sangkar is pleasant enough and can be and there’s two hours in Sawahlunto, where
reached via public bus (15,000Rp), where an you can ride a steam train, visit the rail mu­
ojek (3,000Rp) or minivan (2,000Rp) can take seum or head down a coal mine, before the
you the rest of the way to Silinduang Bulan. return journey.
Another popular tour stop is Belimbing, one
of the largest surviving collections of tradi­ Nature Reserves
tional architecture in the highlands. Many West Sumatra is famous for its many orchid
of the homes are 300 years old and in vari­ species and for the massive Rafflesia arnol-
ous states of decay. Most owners have built dii, and Amorphophallus titanium, the largest
modern homes nearby and use the relics for flowers on the planet. The blossom of the
ceremonial purposes. parasitic rafflesia measures nearly a metre
Ethno-musicologists make the pilgrimage across and can weigh up to 11kg, while the in­
to the town of Padangpanjang, 19km south florescence of Amorphophallus can extend to
of Bukittinggi, to see the Conservatorium of over 3m in circumference. Both flowers reek
Traditional Music (STSI or ASKI; %0752-82077; Jl like road kill. The rafflesia typically blooms
Bundo Kanduang 35; h8am-3pm Mon-Thu, to noon Fri). between August and November, whereas the
Minangkabau dance and music are preserved Titan Arum flowers infrequently. The best
and performed here. Regular buses run be­ place to find ripe blossoms is Batang Palupuh
tween Bukittinggi, Padang and Padangpanjang Nature Reserve, 16km north of Bukittinggi.
(10,000Rp). Local buses to Palupuh, where guides can be
Train lovers head to Padangpanjang for hired, cost 5000Rp.
Sunday’s Museum Train trip to the old On the highway between Padang and
coal-mining town of Sawahlunto. Scenically Bukittinggi is the Lembah Anai Nature Reserve,
SUMATRA

stunning, this newly restored service runs which is renowned for its waterfalls, wild

0 20 km
AROUND BUKITTINGGI 0 12 miles
To Batang Palupuh Limbuku
Patembayan Nature Reserve (6km) Kota Baru Lemba
Harau
Sakura Hill Palupuh Harau Valley & RIAU
Puncak Puncak Lawang Harau Village Payakumbuh
Lawang Piladang
Muko Ana's Homestay
Muko Bayur
Matur
Cargo Railway Gunung
Danau Maninjau Bukittinggi Sago
Lubuk Maninjau Koto Gadang Ngarai Sianok (2263m)
Basung Gunung
Merapi Sungai
Tiku Pandai Sikat Koto Tarab
Baru (2891m)
Gunung
Singgalang Silinduang Bulan
Gasan (2877m) Padangpanjang
Batu Sangkar
Lima
Sungailimau Lembah Anai Kaum
Nature Reserve Belimbing
Sudut Sumpur Buo
Naras
Tou s –Sumatr

Sicincin
Tra

Talawi
rist
n

Danau
Pariaman Singkarak
Rail

Car Tanjung
go Ampalu
way

Railway
Lubuk
an Hwy

Alung

Sijunjung
Selat Sawahlunto
Mentawai
Solok
Bandara Internasional
Minangkabau
Pantai Pasir
Jambak Pantai Pasir
Jambak
Gunung
Padang Talang
Sungai Arau (2572m)
Air Manis
Lubukselasih
Teluk Bayur
Port Danau
To Sungai Penuh Dibawah
Pantai Bungus (184km)
lonelyplanet.com W E S T S U MAT R A • • D a n a u M a n i n j a u 437

WOMEN RULE
Though Muslim, Minangkabau society is still matrilineal. According to Minangkabau adat (tradi­
tional laws and regulations), property and wealth are passed down through the female line. Every
Minangkabau belongs to his or her mother’s clan. At the basic level of the clan is the sapariouk,
those matri-related kin who eat together. These include the mother, the grandchildren and the
son-in-law. The name comes from the word periouk (rice pot). The eldest living female is the
matriarch. The most important male member of the household is the mother’s eldest brother,
who replaces the father in being responsible for the children’s education, upbringing and mar­
riage prospects. But consensus is at the core of the Minangkabau ruling philosophy and the
division of power between the sexes is regarded as complementary – like the skin and the nail
act together to form the fingertip, according to a local expression.

orchids and giant rafflesia. Any Bukittinggi– Most tourists just pass through on a tour
Padang bus can drop you nearby. to Lemba Harau (admission 1000Rp), a set of wa­
terfalls that either trickles or plummets, de­
Gunung Merapi pending on the weather. However, Harau
Looming large over Bukittinggi to the east is Valley is also the best-developed rock-climb­
the smouldering summit of Gunung Merapi ing area in Sumatra, and those climbers who
(2891m). Occasionally deemed too danger­ make the pilgrimage will be rewarded with
ous to climb, Merapi is Sumatra’s most active long clean lines on plenty of sheer faces.
volcano. The local climbers are very knowledgeable
If Merapi’s benign, then visitors typically and worth seeking out. Check out climbing
hike overnight to view sunrise from the sum­ blogs such as Climbing (www.climbing.com) and

SUMATRA
mit. The climb begins at the village of Koto Rockclimbing.com (www.rockclimbing.com) for more
Baru and it’s normally a 12-hour round trip. information.
You’ll need good walking boots, warm cloth­ Right under the cliffs in the narrowest part
ing, a torch, food and drink. of the valley is Echo Homestay (%775 0306; Taratang
It’s unwise to attempt the climb alone, Lb Limpato; r with shared bathroom 60,000Rp, r incl breakfast
and people are advised to take a guide or join 350,000-450,000Rp), a stunningly beautiful place
a group. Travel agencies in Bukittinggi do teeming with butterflies and surrounded by
guided trips to Merapi for US$25 per person forests full of gibbons. Slum it in the basic
(minimum three people). thatched bungalows or pamper yourself in
the Minangkabau-style cottages.
Gunung Singgalang To get there take a local bus from
Singgalang (2877m) is a more adventurous Bukittinggi to Payakumbuh (10,000Rp), then
undertaking than Merapi, is rarely climbed by a minivan to Harau village (5000Rp), and fi­
tourists. There are campsites by the beautiful nally an ojek the rest of the way (5000Rp).
crater lake, Telago Dewi. Alternatively, take an ojek all the way from
Payakumbah (15,000Rp). Harau can also be
Harau Valley reached on a half-day tour from Bukittinggi
Heading east from Bukittinggi takes you for 100,000Rp.
through the tapioca-growing area of
Piladang, famous for keropok (tapioca crack­ DANAU MANINJAU
ers), and the sprawling agricultural centre of %0752
Payakumbuh. Of Minangkabau’s three clans, The first glimpse of this perfectly formed
this is the territory of the 50 Kota (50 villages) volcanic lake sucks your breath away as the
yellow branch. Paddies and daydreaming buf­ dilapidated bus lurches over the caldera lip
falos flank the narrow road that leads to the and hurtles towards the first of the 44 (yep,
tiny village of Harau. Venture another 3km they’re numbered) hairpin bends down to the
and spectacular 100m cliffs rise up to en­ lakeshore. Monkeys watch your progress from
close the claustrophobic Harau Valley, 15km the crash barriers as the lush rainforest of
northeast of Payakumbuh and 55km from the heights retreats from the ever-expanding
Bukittinggi. farms and paddies of the lowlands.
 438 W E S T S U MAT R A • • D a n a u M a n i n j a u lonelyplanet.com

and drive 60km and you’ll end up back here.

DANAU MANINJAU The lake is 17km long, 8km wide and 460m
0 300 m
0 0.2 miles
above sea level. Most places of interest spread
A To Padang
(155km)
B out north along the road to Bayur (3.5km) and
Area North Of beyond. Tell the conductor where you’re stay­
7
1
Km 1 Marker ing and you’ll be dropped off at the right spot.
Not To Scale The town is pretty much asleep by 9pm.
12

2
INTERNET ACCESS
8 Bayur Internet in the area is slow and expensive.
Bagoes Cafe (per hr 10,000Rp; h10am-9pm)
Mosque
Rama Cafe (per hr 10,000Rp; h9am-10pm)
Cafe.net (Bayur; per hr 10,000Rp)
6
2 MONEY
There are no ATMs. The BRI bank in Maninjau
INFORMATION
Bagoes Cafe.........................(see 18) should change foreign currency, otherwise try
Danau
Maninjau Gasang
BRI Bank..................................1 A4 one of the larger hotels or the travel agent, but
Cafe.net...................................2 A1
Mosque Mata Air Post Office...............................3 A4 rates are much better in Bukittinggi.
10 Panas PT Kesuna Tour & Travel.........4 A3
11 Rama Cafe...........................(see 21)
Telkom.................................... 5 A4 POST & TELEPHONE
Wartel.....................................6 A2 The post office and Telkom wartel are next to
20
4 SLEEPING each other at the intersection. There is another
9 Arlen' Nova's Paradise.............7 A1
3 Batu C......................................8 A1
wartel on the road to Bayur.
Beach Guest House..................9 A3
SUMATRA

17
Hotel Pasir Panjang Permai....10 A3
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Jl SMP

Maninjau Hotel Tan Dirih......................11 A3

Lili's Pad.................................12 A1 PT Kesuna Tour & Travel (%61422; kesumatravel@
Maninjau Indah Hotel............13 A4
21
Muaro Beach Bungalows.......14 A4 yahoo.com; Jl Panurunan Air Hangat) Arranges air tickets
14 ng 19 Mutiara................................. 15 A4 and minibus charters to Padang (300,000Rp) and Bukit­
Pis1a
u ara Pillie Homestay......................16 A4
Jl M 18
Riak Danau............................17 A3 tinggi (170,000Rp), and will also change money.
23 22
13 3 5 EATING
Jl H Udin Rahmani

Police
Station
Bagoes Cafe...........................18 A4 Sights & Activities
4 To Bukittinggi
Bundo Restoran.....................19
Cafe 44..................................20
A4
A3
Swimming and canoeing in the lake (warmed
(38km)
Rama Cafe.............................21 A3 by subterranean springs) are still the main
Rumah Makan Sederhana......22 A4 drawcards but there are plenty of other
15
16 TRANSPORT options.
Bus Stop................................23 A4
Mosque The caldera is a hiker’s dream, covered in
rainforest, hiding waterfalls and traditional
When the traveller tide receded from villages. Hike to the rim from Bayur, or cheat
Bukittinggi, Danau Maninjau was left high by catching the bus up the hill to Matur, then
and dry. The locals looked to more sustainable walking back down via the lookout at Puncak
sources of income and aquaculture to fill the Lawang. Half-way to Bayur is Ana’s Homestay,
void. Fish farms now dot the lake foreshore. deep within the jungle.
Life travels slowly in Maninjau, making it If this all sounds a bit athletic, try unwinding
the ideal place to kick back and do nothing. On in a hot spring. Failing all else, grab a moped
the other hand, the rainforests and waterfalls and zoom off to Sinar Pagi, the point on Ujung
of the caldera are just waiting to be explored. Tanjung poking out from the far shore.
Hopefully, the tide may again be turning
as travellers begin to trickle back to one of Festivals & Events
Sumatra’s most stunning destinations. Rakik Rakik is celebrated on the night before
Idul Fitri (the end of Ramadan) by building a
Orientation & Information platform to hold a replica Minangkabau house
Ground zero is the intersection where the and mosque. The offering is then floated out
Bukittinggi highway meets the lake road in the onto the lake on canoes, accompanied by fire­
middle of Maninjau village. Turn left or right works and revelry.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels W E S T S U MAT R A • • D a n a u M a n i n j a u 439

Sleeping GASANG
Aquaculture has transformed the Maninjau Between Maninjau and Bayur, there is a
foreshore. Losmen that once overlooked pris­ sprinkling of hotels, cheap losmen and
tine beaches now have views of fishponds and restaurants.
jetties. There are still beautiful spots, but you Hotel Tan Dirih (%61474; KM1 Desa Air Angek;
need to decide whether comfort, scenery, cost r 150,000Rp) Good value rooms, but the deck
or access is your main priority. looks at fishponds; 950m north of the cross­
Outside of Maninjau village, most losmen roads in Maninjau.
are reached by walking along rice-paddy Hotel Pasir Panjang Permai (%61111; Desa Gasang;
paths, so look for the sign by the roadside. r 200,000-300,000Rp) Excellent rooms, with a great
Truck tubes, canoes, bicycles and mopeds can view from the breezy restaurant. It’s 1.2km
normally be hired. north of the crossroads.
Distances listed here are from the
intersection. BAYUR
The following are all beyond Bayur village.
MANINJAU Lili’s Pad (r 70,000Rp) Nice beach but these
The majority of the town options front onto bungalows (3.8km north of Maninjau) need
aquaculture. some work.
Riak Danau (%081 2679 08153; s/d 30,000/50,000Rp) Batu C (r 40,000Rp) Next door to Lili’s Pad, Batu
The cheapest single in town, 500m north of C has cheap, sunny huts – but you can’t escape
the intersection. the fishponds.
Pillie Homestay (%61048, 081 3633 73361; r 50,000Rp) ‘Arlen’ Nova’s Paradise (%081 5352 04714; novaf@
Simple and cheap rooms 200m south of the hotmail.com; Sungai-Rangeh; r 150,000Rp) Walk through
intersection, with a lovely family and nice rice paddies (5.5km north of Maninjau) to
verandah. these beautiful bungalows on a private beach,

SUMATRA
Beach Guest House (%61082; r 50,000;i) Cheap with nary a fishpond in sight. It’s easily the
rooms on a sunny beach, 600m north of town; nicest place on the lake.
they also rent bicycles and mopeds.
Muaro Beach Bungalows (%61189; neni967@yayoo Eating
.com; Jl Muaro Pisang 53; r 50,000Rp) Down a maze of Most of the guest houses serve standards such
footpaths (about 300m northwest) on a nice as nasi/mie goreng, some Western favourites
stretch of private beach somehow free of fish and freshly caught fish. The bigger hotels also
ponds, these clean bungalows are the best have restaurants. A few places in Maninjau
value of the village group. village are also worth checking out.
Mutiara (%61049; [email protected]; r with Bagoes Cafe (%61418; mains 12,000-25,000Rp;i)
fan/air-con 100,000/150,000Rp) Next door to Pillie Traveller-friendly place with all the usual
Homestay, the rooms here are clean and cool faves and a few local dishes. It also runs movie
with great views from the deck. nights. Internet access is 10,000Rp per hour.
Maninjau Indah Hotel (%61018; Jl Telaga Biru 1; r Rama Cafe ([email protected]; mains 20,000­
175,000-300,000Rp; ai) One of the best views 30,000Rp;i) Share a martabak (20,000Rp)
in town, but the rooms in this large hotel are before hooking into a plate of ikan panggang
overpriced. (baked fish; 30,000Rp) while lazing on cush­

WHO LET THE DOGS OUT

Unlike other parts of Southeast Asia, Sumatra is not overrun with packs of stray dogs. In Islam,
dogs are regarded as impure and contact with the animal is prohibited. Then what is all that
barking, you might ask? Minangkabau culture makes an exception to some of the Islamic pre­
cepts, especially when it comes to protecting crops. The farmer’s great nemesis is the wild boar,
which roots up vegetable patches during overnight feasts. To combat the intruder, farmers keep
very vocal hunting dogs, usually tied up on leashes or kept in pens. All that caged energy is
then unleashed on boar-hunting days, assigned to various villages throughout the year. In other
hunting traditions, the prey is usually retrieved for the owner, but because pigs are also haram
(forbidden) in Islamic law, the dogs get the spoils instead of the scraps.
 440 W E S T S U MAT R A • • K e r i n c i Va l l e y lonelyplanet.com

ions amongst kites and drums. Look out for Sungai Penuh, run Padang-bound services.
the excellent map. Internet access is 10,000Rp If you’re leaving Kersik Tua for Padang or
per hour. Bukittinggi, let the bus company know and
Cafe 44 (%61238; mains 12,000Rp) Down by the they’ll pick up from your losmen.
lakeshore, this place has a good selection of Other destinations include Dumai
local food – if you can find the cook. There are (200,000Rp, 18 hours), Bukittinggi (85,000Rp,
also a few cheap rooms (30,000Rp). 10 hours, nightly), Bangko (50,000Rp, five
Rumah Makan Sederhana and Bundo Restoran hours) and Bengkulu (100,000Rp, 16 hours,
(dishes from 8000Rp) both serve a good selection daily).
of Padang food.
Getting Around
Getting There & Around Most places in the valley are accessible using
Buses run hourly between Maninjau and the white minivans that leave from near the
Bukittinggi (13,000Rp, 1½ hours). Taxis market. Sample destinations and fares are
from Bukittinggi start from 160,000Rp. Danau Kerinci (8000Rp), Kersik Tua (7000Rp,
There is also an economy bus to/from Dumai one hour) and Pelompek (7000Rp, 80 min­
(50,000Rp). utes). Watch your pronounciation – Semurup
Several places rent out mountain bikes and Semerap are in opposite directions.
(per day 15,000Rp), motorcycles (per day
80,000Rp) and canoes (per day 15,000Rp). Sungai Penuh
Minivans (2000Rp) travel the lake road Sungai Penuh (Full River) is the regional
during daylight hours. Alternatively, an administrative centre and transport hub
ojek from the intersection to Bayur will cost for the valley. Bang in the middle is a large,
around 7000Rp. walled sports field and most necessities will
be in one of the streets that radiate off here.
SUMATRA

KERINCI VALLEY There is a lively market and fast, reliable

%0748 / pop 300,000 internet, but not much else to recommend a
Kerinci is a stunning mountain valley tucked protracted stay. Most people get in and get
away high in the Bukit Barisan on Jambi’s out, heading for the more scenic climes of
western border. Many of the cool, lush forests Kersik Tua.
are protected as the Kerinci Seblat National
Park. To the south is picturesque Danau INFORMATION
Kerinci and a patchwork of rich farmland. BNI ATM (Jl Matadinata) Just off the main square near
Tea and cinnamon account for much of the Hotel Jaya Wisata; accepts MasterCard and Visa.
valley’s wealth, with the former ringing the BNI Bank (Jl Ahmad Yani) Will exchange cash and travel­
higher villages and the latter forming a buffer lers cheques; opposite Hotel Matahari.
between farmland and rainforest. TNKS ( Taman Nasional Kerinci Seblat; %323701; Jl
Minangkabau and native Kerincinese make Basuki Rahmat 11) The park (p442) HQ sells permits but
up most of the population, with a sprinkling ring first to check it’s open. If closed, you can get permits
of Batak and Javanese who are drawn by the from losmen in Kersik Tua.
rich soil. Kerinci is in Jambi province but ap­ Post office (Jl Sudirman 1)
pears in this section because of its geographic Telkom wartel (internet per hr 5000Rp) Fast internet
proximity to Padang. and IDD in the big building on the southern side of the
sports field near Hotel Aroma.
Getting There & Away
Sungai Penuh doesn’t have a bus terminal, SIGHTS
but the bus companies all have offices near Mesjid Agung Pondok Tinggi
the market. Head west up Jl Sudirman (past the post of­
The shortest approach to Sungai Penuh fice) and turn left, where you’ll find this old
is from Padang (70,000Rp, seven hours). If wooden mosque (admission by donation 10,000Rp)
you’re staying in Kersik Tua, let the driver with its pagoda-style roof. Built in 1874
know, as all minibuses pass through the town without a single nail, the interior contains
en route. PO Cahaya Kerinci (%21421; Jl Diponegoro), elaborately carved beams and old, Dutch tiles.
PO CW Safa Marwa (%22376; Jl Yos Sudarso 20) and Ask the caretaker for permission, and dress
PO AYU Transport (%22074; Jl Cokroaminoto), all in demurely.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels W E S T S U MAT R A • • K e r i n c i Va l l e y 441

SLEEPING & EATING the square. The fruit and produce market is at
Accommodation options in Sungai Penuh are the southern end of Jl Diponegoro.
fairly dire. Unless you’re planning adventures Minang Soto (Jl Muradi; dishes from 8000Rp) Busy
in the not-so-exciting southern end of the Padang-style eatery, but watch you get what
park, try and head to Kersik Tua (p442). you ordered. The tahu arrives with ayam. Eat
Hotel Matahari (%21061; Jl Ahmad Yani 25; d 55,000­ the tahu, pay for the ayam (chicken).
175,000Rp) Sungai Penuh’s first hotel is showing
some wear and tear. Kersik Tua
Hotel Yani (%21409; Jl Muradi 1; d 60,000-185,000Rp) Darjeeling it’s not, but at 1500m, sur­
Next door to Minang Soto (see right), it’s as rounded by tea plantations and dominated
good as it looks. by the massive cone of Gunung Kerinci
Aroma Hotel (%21142; [email protected]; Jl Imam (3805m), Kersik Tua makes a pleasant base
Bonjol 14; d 80,000-210,000Rp) Conveniently located for exploring the wilder northern end of
at the top corner of the square, the Aroma’s Kerinci Seblat.
budget rooms are better value than its expen­ The town sprawls along one side of the
sive ones. main road, with tea plantations and the
Hotel Jaya Wisata (%21221; Jl Martadinata 7; r incl mountain on the other. The national park
breakfast & fan/air-con 100,000/495,000Rp; a) The flash­ turn-off is indicated by a harimau (Sumatran
est address in town fills up quickly. tiger) statue.
Kerinci is known for the local speciality Trekking gear, supplies, guides and trans­
of dendeng batokok, charcoal-grilled strips port can all be arranged here. There’s a market
of pounded beef. Street stalls pop up in the on Saturday and a BNI ATM. The village is
evening along Jl Teuku Umar, a block from 52km north of Sungai Penuh on the road to

SUMATRA
ORANG PENDEK: LITTLE BIG FOOT
Every culture that has lived among trees tells stories about elusive creatures that straddle myth
and reality. Tales about leprechauns, fairies and even Sasquatch have existed for so long that it
is impossible to determine which came first: the spotting or the story. The Indonesian version of
these myth makers is the orang pendek, which has been occasionally spotted but more frequently
talked about in the Kerinci forests for generations.
Villagers who claim to have seen orang pendek describe the creature as being about 1m tall,
more ape-like than human, but walking upright on the ground. The creature’s reclusive habits
made it a celebrity in local mythology. Common folk stories say that the orang pendek has feet
that face backwards so that it can’t be tracked through the forest or that it belongs to the su­
pernatural not the world of flesh and blood. Others say that the first-hand accounts were only
spottings of sun bears.
Scientists have joined the conversation by tramping through the forest hoping to document
the existence of orang pendek. British researchers succeeded in making a plaster cast of an animal
footprint that fits the orang pendek description and doesn’t match any other known primate. Hair
samples with no other documented matches have also led researchers to believe that there is
merit to the local lore. Two members of Fauna & Flora International, a British-based research team,
even reported separate sightings, but were unable to collect conclusive evidence. Researchers
sponsored by the National Geographic Society have resumed the search by placing motion-
sensitive cameras in strategic spots in the jungle. So little is known about this region and so
many areas are so remote that researchers are hopeful that the orang pendek will eventually
wander into the frame.
If nothing else, the orang pendek helps illuminate aspects of Sumatrans’ linguistic and cultural
relationship with the jungle. Bahasa Indonesia makes little distinction between man and ape,
for example ‘orang-utan’ (forest man) or ‘orang rimba’ (‘people of the forest’, the preferred term
for the Kubu tribe) may reflect a perceived blood tie between forest dwellers. This impreci­
sion is often used for comic effect. A common joke is that the orang pendek (meaning ‘short
man’) does indeed exist, followed by the punch line that the shortest person in the room is
the missing link.
 442 W E S T S U MAT R A • • K e r i n c i Va l l e y lonelyplanet.com

Padang and can be reached via any Padang– what the rate entails, as camping gear, food
Kerinci bus. and transport may be considered additional
There are several basic homestays. Subandi costs.
Homestay (%357009, 081 2741 14273; subandi.home Kerinci’s climate is temperate, and down­
[email protected]; just south of the tiger statue; r 90,000Rp) is right cold as you gain altitude. Bring warm
the best base camp in the village. Subandi is clothes and rain gear.
a trove of local knowledge and can organise
mountain, jungle and wildlife treks of varying GUNUNG KERINCI
difficulty and duration. His rooms are basic Dominating the northern end of the park is
but clean, and his wife is an excellent cook the 3805m Gunung Kerinci, one of Sumatra’s
catering for all tastes. most active volcanoes (it last erupted in
Other homestays include Home Stay 2009) and Indonesia’s highest non-Papuan
Paiman (%357030; r 65,000Rp), 200m south of peak. On clear days the summit offers fan­
Subandi (near the ATM), and Home Stay B tastic views of Danau Gunung Tujuh (see
Darmin (%357070; r 65,000Rp), 300m north of the below) and the surrounding valleys and
statue. mountains.
Summit treks usually start from the na­
Kerinci Seblat National Park (TNKS) tional park entrance, 5km from Kersik Tua,
This is the largest national park in Sumatra, and tackle the mountain in two stages (see
covering a 350km swath of the Bukit Barisan boxed text, opposite). The highest campsite,
range and protecting 15,000 sq km of prime at 3400m, is normally reached after six hours.
equatorial rainforest spread over four prov­ The following morning, allow an hour in the
inces, with almost 40% of the park falling predawn to reach the summit by sunrise.
within Jambi’s boundaries. Botanists and twitchers from around the
Most of the protected area is dense rainfor­ world come for the rare flora and fauna
SUMATRA

est; its inaccessibility the very reason it’s one such as Javanese edelweiss, Schneider’s pitta
of the last strongholds of endangered spe­ and the Crested Wood Partridge. Nepthenes
cies such as harimau and badak (Sumatran (pitcher plants), squirrels, geckos and long-
rhinoceros). tailed macaques can be found in the lower
Because of the great elevation range within forest.
the park, Kerinci has a unique diversity of flora The path is very steep and eroded, and
and fauna. Edelweiss and other high-altitude above the treeline the scree is extremely slip­
flowers grow in the forest. Lower altitudes pery. A guide is mandatory and you’ll need
bring pitcher plants, orchids, Rafflesia and the full camping gear and warm clothes, includ­
giant Amorphophallus (see p436). ing a windproof jacket and head torch (all of
As with many of Sumatra’s protected areas, which can be hired in Kersik Tua). Nights
encroachment by farmers, illegal logging and are freezing. Do not attempt the climb in wet
poaching are all serious issues for Kerinci. weather.
According to park estimates, a total of 23,000 Expect to pay around 700,000Rp for a fully
hectares (230 sq km) of forests were destroyed guided trip with food, permits, transport and
between 2002 and 2004. all gear thrown in. Fully self-sufficient par­
TNKS sees few visitors and tourist infra­ ties needing a guide only will pay around
structure is nonexistent. Trekking opportu­ 400,000Rp.
nities typically focus on the northern region
of the park, while the southern region is the DANAU GUNUNG TUJUH
traditional zone where local people are al­ At 1996m, the beautiful caldera of Danau
lowed to cultivate the land. Permits and guides Gunung Tujuh (Seven Mountain Lake) is
are required to enter the park; both can be the highest in Southeast Asia and makes for
arranged at the TNKS office in Sungai Penuh a pleasant day walk or multiday trek.
(see p440) or through your losmen. There is a It takes 3½ hours to climb to the lake from
park office at the entrance to Danau Gunung the park entrance, which is 2km from the vil­
Tujuh, but it’s rarely staffed. lage of Pelompek. It’s possible to camp near
Permits cost 20,000Rp and guide rates are the lake. Subandi Homestay in Kersik Tua (see
highly negotiable, ranging from 75,000Rp to above) can organise two- or three-day treks
200,000Rp per day. Be sure to clarify exactly including a canoe crossing.
lonelyplanet.com W E S T S U MAT R A • • K e r i n c i Va l l e y 443

CLIMBING GUNUNG KERINCI Steve Waters

The ojek bumps it’s way along the rough track for 5km through tea plantations until the road
becomes impassable. Time to hoof it. My guide, Kemun, is shouldering most of the load includ­
ing the tent and all the food, leaving myself with a light pack of warm clothes and rented
sleeping bag.
The forest doesn’t begin until the park entrance, and even there it’s looking like it’s on
borrowed time, as farms keep pushing the boundaries. It’s cooler under the canopy and the
first thing I notice is bird song. Within 10 minutes we arrive at a small clearing, named Base
Camp I.
Kemun is adept at pointing out wildlife and we spot various geckos, squirrels and quite a
few birds. On glimpsing a long-blonde primate tail I ask Kemun ‘what sort’, thinking it’s pos­
sibly a long-tailed macaque. He replies ‘monkey’. Alas, neither of us have the language skills for
further clarification.
The track is unmarked, though well defined, and not too steep in the early sections, and
Base Camp II is reached after an hour. We take a break. Kemun supplies the snacks – pineapple
cream biscuits. We push onto Shelter I, which takes 90 minutes of hard slog over tree roots to
2500m, where we take another break and eat some sticky-rice snacks Kemun has procured from
the market.
The track steepens further and is greatly eroded, making for strenuous moves balancing on
tree roots, and for a while I think I’m in southwest Tasmania in Australia. Alien shrieks from the
shrubbery help me refocus and soon we arrive at Shelter II, at 3000m. There are no structures at
these shelters, other than a few rusting poles or a slab of cement, and lots of litter. Slower groups
normally spend the night at Shelter II.
Kemun produces a plastic container holding a Padang-style lunch of rice, noodles, potatoes,

SUMATRA
fried egg, chilli sardine and rendang. Fuelled up, we push onto Shelter III (3400m) where we’ll
spend the night. Just above the treeline, this campsite has sensational views of the whole valley,
including Danau Gunung Tujuh.
Kemun sets up camp and gets a brew going while I snap away. The wind is fierce and we
both start piling on the layers. By 4pm I’m wearing everything I’ve got, including a bike jacket,
rented gloves and beanie. By 5pm we’re both inside the tent, emerging briefly to check the sun­
set, as Kerinci’s pyramid of shadow marches across the valley. Dinner is another plastic container
containing an identical meal.
Kemun’s brought insulating mats, but it’s a cold, sleepless night in a crowded tent on hard
ground with a thin sleeping bag. The muezzin’s call from the valley comes as welcome relief,
and we get a pre-dawn brew going.
Above Shelter III there is no real path, just the odd concrete pole to mark the way. The scree
is extremely slippery and it pays to keep your hands free (hence the gloves). The sky is lightening
behind Gunung Tujuh but it’s still bitterly cold. The knife-edge rim of the caldera is reached in
only an hour and we trade places in front of the camera as we soak in the view and try not to
gag on the sulphurous fumes.
The descent back to Shelter III takes as long as the ascent due to the treacherous scree, but
once we’re packed and on the path proper we make good time and all too soon we are at the
bottom and out of the forest. Here were are greeted by our transport, and are back in Kersik
Tua in time for lunch.

Pelompek is 8km beyond Kersik Tua LADEH PANJANG

(bus 4000Rp) and 60km from Sungai Penuh This region of rainforest, sulphur lakes and
(7000Rp). Hire an ojek (5000Rp) from hot springs located on Gunung Kerinci’s
Pelompek for the final trip to the park en­ western flank is seldom visited, and is
trance. You’ll need a park permit, and if TNKS home to harimau, badak, tapir and beruang
(see left) is closed, ask next door at the tiny (bear). A five-day, 120km trek traverses the
Losmen Pak Edes (r 50,000Rp) which also has two range and exits onto the highway north of
very basic rooms and can arrange guides. Kerinci.
 444 B E N G K U LU • • B e n g k u l u lonelyplanet.com

DANAU KERINCI
Danau Kerinci, 20km south of Sungai Penuh,
is a small lake nestled beneath Gunung Raya
BENGKULU

(2535m). There is a popular recreational park Cut off from its neighbours by the Bukit
and an annual festival, held in July, which Barisan range, Bengkulu remains Sumatra’s
displays traditional Kerinci dance and music. most isolated province – and nothing much
Stone carvings in the villages around the lake seems to have changed here for years.
suggest that the area supported a sizable popu­ Few tourists make it this far, but those who
lation in megalithic times. Batu Gong (Gong do are rewarded with the simple pleasures of
Stone), in the village of Muak, 25km from ordinary Indonesian life and an opportunity
Sungai Penuh, is thought to have been carved to learn Bahasa Indonesia without the support
2000 years ago. of bilingualism.
To reach the lake, catch a public bus from
Sungai Penuh to Sanggaran Agung (8000Rp). History
The last return bus leaves around 4pm. Little is known of Bengkulu before it came
under the influence of the Majapahits from
Java at the end of the 13th century. Until then
AIR TERJUN
it appears to have existed in almost total iso­
Impressive waterfalls dot the whole valley. The lation, divided between a number of small
easiest to find are the Letter ‘W’ Waterfalls (3000Rp) kingdoms such as Sungai Lebong in the Curup
in ‘Letter W’ village 4km north of Pelompek. area. It even developed its own cuneiform
Look for the sign ‘Air Terjun Telun Berasap’ script, ka-ga-nga.
then walk 300m to a deep, fern-lined ravine In 1685, after having been kicked out
where a thunderous torrent of water crashes of Banten in Java, the British moved into
onto rocks below. Bengkulu (Bencoolen, as they called it) in
Other falls include Air Terjun 13 Tingkat near
SUMATRA

search of pepper. The venture was not ex­

Sungai Medang, and Air Terjun Pauh Sago near actly a roaring success. Isolation, boredom
Batang Merangin on the Bangko Rd. and constant rain sapped the British will, and
malaria ravaged their numbers.
GUA (CAVES) The colony was still not a likely prospect
Locals believe that caves act as mediums for in 1818 when Sir Stamford Raffles arrived as
communicating with the supernatural, and its British-appointed ruler. In the short time
that entry into these sacred spaces requires he was there, Raffles made the pepper market
a modest ritual. Hiring a guide helps in the profitable and planted cash crops of coffee,
exploration of both the physical and esoteric nutmeg and sugar cane. In 1824 Bengkulu
landscapes. was traded for the Dutch outpost of Melaka
The most extensive network of caves is as a guarantee not to interfere with British
situated outside the village of Sengering, in­ interests in Singapore.
cluding the celebrated Gua Tiangko. Obsidian- From 1938 to 1941 Bengkulu was a home­
flake tools found in the cave indicate that in-domestic-exile for Indonesia’s first presi­
it was occupied some 9000 years ago. The dent, Sukarno.
caves also contain some impressive natural
formations. BENGKULU
Sengering is 9km from Sungai Manau, on %0736 / pop 380,000
the Bangko road. Buses leave Sungai Penuh A quiet provincial capital, Bengkulu does
for Bangko in the mornings. not really have much for tourists to do ex­
There are cave paintings in Gua Kasah, 5km cept chat to the locals, most of whom don’t
southeast from Kersik Tua, and two cave speak English. Alternatively you could pass
systems Gua Kelelawar and Gua Belang at Ting through as a UFO – unidentified foreign
Kemulun near Sanggaran Agung. object.

AIR PANAS (HOT SPRINGS) Orientation

If you fancy a dip in some hot springs, make Although Bengkulu is by the sea, most of
your way to either Dusan Buru Air Panas near the town is set back from the waterfront,
Semurup (11km north of Sungai Penuh) or touching only near the fort, Benteng
Sungai Medang Air Panas across the valley. Marlborough. The coast is unexpectedly
lonelyplanet.com B E N G K U LU • • B e n g k u l u 445

0 500 m
BENGKULU 0 0.3 miles

A B C D
INDIAN OCEAN INFORMATION
BCA Bank.....................................1 B3
ra
ga BII ATM.......................................2 C4
Se
1 e luk BNI Bank......................................3 C4
Jl T Post Office...................................4 A2
Sanindo Wisata Tours & Travel..(see 28)
Jl Pan Satelit Internet............................. 5 C4
jaitan 8 Telkom Wartel............................. 6 C4
ng
Pasar e nte Wartel......................................... 7 A2
Jl B
Barukota
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
7 13 Benteng Marlborough...................8 B1
iri

4
eng

Police
European Cemetery.....................9 A3
District
Jl T

Mesjid Jamik..............................10 B3
h

Station
ija

Monument To Lais (43km);

ad

Ipuh (128km) Monumen Inggris...................... 11 A3

Kh

20 Museum (Sukarno).....................12 B4
Jl

Governor’s Bank Thomas Parr Monument............ 13 A2

Jl A

2 House Indonesia
hm

o
on
ad

26 SLEEPING
ary
Y

19 TH Horison Hotel.............................14 B4
an

Jl M
i

18 Hotel Bumi Endah......................15 B4

Jl Ditra

28 Hotel Dena................................ 16 C4
29 Hotel Samudera Dwinka.............17 B3
ran

Jl
Su
Rio Asri Hotel.............................18 A2
ete

Jl I
di
rm
ria
Jl V

an Vista Hotel................................. 19 C2
n
22 27
so

9 10 Wisma Balai Buntar....................20 B2

nto

��
Jl M

25
Jl Sa

1
EATING
Has

17 Roti Holland Bakery....................21 B3

an

21
Rumah Makan Si Kabayan..........22 B3
Pasar Simpang Lima Bakso.................. 23 C4
3 o so 24 Minggu
nt asih Besar Sri Solo.......................................24 B3
Sa raw
Jl Warungs....................................25 B3

SUMATRA
end
Jl Su

Jl C
pu
prap

Jl Kera 11 TRANSPORT
to

Bengkulu Indah........................(see 26)

��
Habeco......................................26 C2
Merpati....................................(see 17)
6 Putra Rafflesia............................27 B3
2
12 San Travel..................................28 B2
ta
Jl S

no-Hat 23
Jl Soekar Tanjung Indah........................... 29 C2
am

Mosque 5
ud

ti
era

3
wa

Jl S
tma

Pa

4
a

15
Jl F

rm

Pantai 14
an

Panjang 16
la
Na
tai

To Post Office (500m); Museum To PO Gunung Kerinci (5km);

an

Negeri Bengkulu (1km); Panorama Air Sebakul Terminal (7km);

Jl P

Bus Terminal (4km); Airport (14km); Curup (63km); Trans-Sumatran

Pulau Baai Harbour (15km) Hwy (120km)

quiet and rural, just a kilometre or so from MONEY

the town centre. There are plenty of ATMs around town.
The city is divided up into the Kampung (the BCA Bank (Jl Suprapto 150) The best place to exchange

area around Benteng Marlborough), Simpang money.

Lima (the intersection of Jl Suprapto, Parman, Bll Bank (Jl Suprapto) ATM.

Fatmawati and Soekarno-Hatta) and Minggu BNI Bank (Jl S Parman) Travellers cheques and US dollars

(the area around Pasar Minggu). The commer­ can be changed here.

cial spine of Jl Suprapto and the nearby Pasar

Minggu Besar are in the modern town centre, POST
which is connected to the old-town area around Main post office (Jl S Parman) South of town centre;
the fort by the long and straight Jl Ahmad Yani/ also has poste restante.
Jl Sudirman. Post office (Jl RA Hadi 3) More convenient, opposite the
Thomas Parr monument.
Information
INTERNET ACCESS TELEPHONE
Satelit Internet (Jl S Parman 9; per hr 8000Rp; Telkom wartel (cnr Jl Suprapto & Soekarno-Hatta;
h10am-10pm) h7am-10pm) International calls can be made here.
 446 B E N G K U LU • • B e n g k u l u Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

TRAVEL AGENCIES Sleeping

Sanindo Wisata Tours & Travel (%27522; Jl Mt BUDGET
Haryono 73) Sanindo Wisata can arrange historical city Vista Hotel (%20820; Jl MT Haryono 67; r incl snack with
tours, as well as tours to the Curup tea plantations and fan/air-con 40,000/170,000Rp; a) Located near the
offshore islands. bus agents, Vista is excellent value. You might
have forgotten what clean means in Sumatra,
Sights but Vista can remind you, with a good range
Set on a hill overlooking the Indian Ocean, of clean rooms.
Benteng Marlborough (admission 2000Rp; h8am-7pm), Wisma Balai Buntar (%21254; Jl Khadijah 122; r with
a former British fort, was restored and opened fan/air-con 75,000/100,000Rp) In an old Dutch villa,
to the public in 1984 after a long period of use this is Bengkulu’s version of backpacker land.
by the Indonesian army. It became the seat of The enormous rooms are a little faded, but the
British power in Bengkulu after 1719, when it neighbourhood is worth a wander.
replaced nearby Fort York, of which nothing Hotel Samudera Dwinka (%21604; Jl Sudirman 246;
but the foundations remain. Despite its sturdy r incl breakfast with fan/air-con 110,000/450,000Rp; a)
defences the fort was attacked and overrun Located in the centre of town, Hotel Samudera
twice – once by a local rebellion just after its has rooms that are inexpensive without being
completion in 1719, and then by the French depressing.
in 1760. The old British gravestones at the en­ Hotel Bumi Endah (%21665, fax 073 634 6442; Jl
trance make poignant reading. There are a few Fatmawati 29; r incl breakfast 198,000-374,000Rp; a) A
interesting old engravings and copies of official friendly rambling hotel with quiet rooms
correspondence from the time of British rule, and airy common spaces in a residential
and you can also see where the Dutch incarcer­ neighbourhood.
ated Sukarno during his internal exile.
Bengkulu has a number of other reminders MIDRANGE & TOP END
SUMATRA

of its British history. The Thomas Parr monument Hotel Dena (%21066; Jl Fatmawati 28; r incl breakfast
(Jl Ahmad Yani), in front of the Pasar Barukota, 195,000-250,000Rp; a) A popular option with
was erected in memory of a British governor clean, comfortable rooms – all with hot
beheaded by locals in 1807. The Monumen water.
Inggris (Jl M Hasan), near the beach, is dedicated Rio Asri Hotel (%345 000; Jl Veteran 63; r incl breakfast
to Captain Robert Hamilton, who died in 1793 454,000-816,000Rp; as) For such a staid town,
‘in command of the troops’. Rio Asri is a daring ’80s-inspired design ex­
Former president Sukarno was exiled to periment. The rooms are equally as smart and
Bengkulu by the Dutch from 1938 until 1941. some have high-top views over the garden
The small villa in which he lived is main­ city.
tained as a museum (Jl Soekarno-Hatta; admission Horison Hotel (% 21722, 081 173 9304; de­
2000Rp; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-noon Sat & Sun). [email protected]; Jl Pantai Nala 142; r incl breakfast
Exhibits include a few faded photos, a ward­ 465,000-1,400,000Rp; asW) The fanciest hotel
robe and even his trusty bicycle. During his in town, with well-dressed rooms and a swim­
stay, Sukarno, who was an architect, designed ming pool overlooking the beach.
the Mesjid Jamik (Bung Karno Mosque; cnr Jl Sudirman
& Suprapto). Eating
Museum Negeri Bengkulu (% 32099; Jl In the evening, several warungs cause a traffic
Pembangunan; admission by donation; h8am-4.30pm jam along Jl Sudirman, serving freshly grilled
Tue-Thu, 8am-noon Sat & Sun) has a poorly labelled seafood. Be sure to try the local favourites,
collection of standard Sumatran fare. Bring tempoyak (durian and fish) and martabak
your own light if you want to see anything. (stuffed savoury pancake).
The graves in the European cemetery (Jl Ditra) Roti Holland Bakery (Jl Suprapto 124; pastries 2000Rp;
behind the small church are testament to the h8am-5pm) Chocolate doughnuts are wrapped
colonialists’ vulnerability to malaria. thoughtfully in a cardboard box for those with
Bengkulu’s main beach, Pantai Panjang, al­ self-control. The rest of us can tear into the
though not the best in Indonesia, is clean, pastries at the cafe tables.
generally deserted and a good place for a walk. Sri Solo (Jl Suprapto 118; mains 8000Rp; h10am­
Strong surf and currents make it unsafe for 10pm) The equivalent of an ice-cream parlour,
swimming. Sri Solo serves plates of ayam baker (grilled
lonelyplanet.com B E N G K U LU • • N o r t h e r n B e n g k u l u 447

chicken) and tasty fruit juices to local families to town (2000Rp). Tell the driver where you
after church, gangs of school kids and court­ want to stay or simply ask for the benteng
ing couples. (fort). Opelet and ojek also greet buses when
Rumah Makan Si Kabayan (Jl Sudirman 51; mains they arrive at Jl MT Haryono/Jl Bali. Opelet
from 35,000Rp; h6-10pm) This is where Bengkulu fares to almost anywhere in town are 2000Rp;
entertains guests, with fitting VIP prices. ojek are 5000Rp.
Simpang Lima Bakso (Jl Soekarno-Hatta; mains from There are no fixed routes for opelet; tell the
10,000Rp) Bengkulu is bakso (meatball-and­ driver your destination or general area and
noodle soup) crazy and this simple warung you might get a nod of approval.
does a thriving business beside the city’s crazy
five-way intersection. NORTHERN BENGKULU
The coast road (Jl Manusurai Pantai), run­
Getting There & Away ning north from Bengkulu to Padang, offers
AIR a number of possibilities for travellers.
Merpati and Sriwijaya operate daily flights to The road is sealed all the way and the
Jakarta. The Merpati office (%27111; Jl Sudirman journey takes a mere 16 hours, a real quickie
246) is in the Hotel Samudera Dwinka. Other when measured by the Sumatran distance
tickets can be purchased through Sanindo stick. However in the wet season the coast
Wisata Tours and Travel (see left). road is prone to wash-outs and landslides, so
the going can be much slower.
BUS The journey can be done in a number of
Bengkulu has two bus terminals: the Air short hops, stopping off at a town along the
Sebakul terminal, 12km east of town, serves way for the hell of it; each town has at least one
long-distance destinations, while Panorama losmen. The first town north of Bengkulu is
terminal, 7km east, is used by local buses. Lais. There are reputed to be elephants further

SUMATRA
However it is much easier to go to the bus north near Ipuh, around the mouth of Sungai
company offices on Jl MT Haryono, as almost Ipuh. Mukomuko, 200km north of Bengkulu, is
all long-distance destinations can be reached the largest community on this stretch of road
from here. and was the northern outpost of the British
To get to Air Sebakul take a yellow opelet colony of Bencoolen.
(2000Rp) to Panorama and then a white one Curup is a small market town in the foot­
(2000Rp) to Air Sebakul. hills of the Bukit Barisan, halfway between
Putra Rafflesia (%20313; Jl MT Haryono 12) serv­ Bengkulu and Lubuklinggau. There are
ices Palembang (economy 90,000Rp, 15 several surviving traditional homes and the
hours). Bengkulu Indah (%22640; JI MT Haryono) town itself is in a valley watered by the upper
services a wide range of destinations. San Travel reaches of Sungai Musi, which eventually
(%21811; Jl MT Haryono 73) goes to Bukittinggi flows through Palembang. Curup is a good
(economy/air-con 110,000/135,000Rp, 17 base for visits to the surrounding mountains,
hours) and Padang (economy/air-con execu­ including volcanic Gunung Kaba, 19km east of
tive 110,000/150,000Rp) on Friday only. town, which has two large smouldering craters
PO Gunung Kerinci (Jl Bali 36) runs buses up the surrounded by dense rainforest.
coast to Sungai Penuh in the Kerinci Valley There’s nowhere to change money in
(95,000Rp, 18 hours). Tanjung Indah (Jl MT Haryono Curup, so come prepared. Curup has a me­
108) runs minivans to Palembang (160,000Rp) diocre losmen and hotel to choose from.
and other destinations.
Habeco (Jl MT Haryono), at the northern edge of Getting There & Away
town, has daily buses along the coast road to Padang–Bengkulu buses can stop off at the
regional destinations, such as Lais (10,000Rp, northern coastal towns. Curup can be reached
two hours), Ipuh (40,000Rp, five hours) and by frequent connections to/from Bengkulu
Mukomuko (60,000Rp, eight hours). and Lubuklinggau.

Getting Around PULAU ENGGANO

Airport taxis charge a standard 60,000Rp to This remote island, 100km off the coast of
town. The airport is 200m from the main road southern Bengkulu, is so isolated that until the
south, from where there are regular opelet early 20th century some Sumatrans believed
 448 R I AU • • Pe k a n b a r u lonelyplanet.com

that it was inhabited entirely by women, who interior Sumatran jungle. The discovery of oil
miraculously gave birth to children sired by and gas reserves has also built an educated and
the wind. middle-class population within an otherwise
The island is featured on a map of Asia impoverished island.
drawn in 1593. Enggano is Portuguese for The interior of the province more closely
‘deceit’ or ‘disappointment’, which suggests resembles Sumatra as a whole: sparse popula­
that the Portuguese were the first Europeans tion, dense jungle, surviving pockets of no­
to discover it. It wasn’t until three years later madic peoples (including the Sakai, Kubu and
that Dutch navigators first recorded it. Jambisal) and endangered species, such as the
Enggano’s original inhabitants are believed Sumatran rhinoceros and tiger.
to have fled the Sumatran mainland when the A strain of chloroquine-resistant malaria
Malays migrated there. Today the islanders has been reported on the Riau archipelago.
live by cultivating rice, coffee, pepper, cloves
and copra. Wild pigs, cattle and buffalo are History
abundant. Riau’s position at the southern entrance to
The island has an area of 680 sq km and the Strait of Melaka, the gateway for trade
there are no tourist facilities. Malakoni is the between India and China, was strategically
main harbour. The island is relatively flat significant.
(the highest point is Bua Bua, at 250m) and From the 16th century, the Riau Islands
has a swampy coastline interspersed with were ruled by a variety of Malay kingdoms,
some good beaches and snorkelling. Few tour­ which had to fight off constant attacks by pi­
ists make it this far, so it’s a good spot for rates and the Portuguese, Dutch and English.
budding linguists to practise their Bahasa The Dutch eventually won control over the
Indonesia. Strait of Melaka, and mainland Riau (then
It is best to report to the kepala desa (village known as Siak) became their colony when the
SUMATRA

chief) and seek advice for lodging. Sultan of Johor surrendered in 1745. However
Dutch interest lay in ridding the seas of pi­
Getting There & Around rates, so they could get on with the serious
In theory there are three boats a week business of trade, and they made little effort
from Bengkulu to Malakoni, but no one in to develop the province.
Bengkulu was able to vouch for this service. Oil was discovered around Pekanbaru by
Alternatively, go to the small port of Bintuhan, US engineers before WWII, but it was the
about 225km south of Bengkulu, and ask at Japanese who drilled the first well at Rumbai,
the harbour. 10km north of the city. The country around
The villages on the island are connected by Pekanbaru is criss-crossed by pipelines that
tracks originally made by the Japanese and not connect the oil wells to refineries at Dumai, as
very well maintained since. The only way to ocean-going tankers cannot enter the heavily
get around is to walk. silted Sungai Siak.

PEKANBARU
RIAU %0761 / pop 750,000
Before the Americans struck oil, Pekanbaru
The landscape and character of Riau prov­ was little more than a sleepy river port on
ince is decidedly distinct from the northern Sungai Siak. Today it is Indonesia’s oil capi­
and western rind of Sumatra. Rather than tal, with all the hustle and bustle of modern
mountains and volcanoes, Riau’s character cities. Pekanbaru’s primary purpose for tour­
was carved by rivers and narrow ocean pas­ ists is as a transit point between ferries from
sages. Trading towns sprang up along the Singapore, but the increased affordability of
important navigation route of the Strait of air travel has curtailed the sea passage. Now
Melaka, across which Riau claims cultural only Western oil executives on business trips
cousins. find themselves in Pekanbaru.
For the port towns, such as Pekanbaru, and If you do decide to wander through, you’ll
the Riau islands, proximity to Singapore and spend most of your time accepting inexplica­
Kuala Lumpur has ensured greater access to ble gestures of kindness, from cafe conversa­
the outside world than those towns of the tions to instant friendships.
lonelyplanet.com R I AU • • Pe k a n b a r u 449

0 500 m
PEKANBARU 0 0.3 miles

A B Sung C 22 D
To Dumai
ai Sia
k

Jl Dr Pangaitan
(158km)

bas
Jl Saleh Ab

Jl Sultan Syarif Qasyim

9
Jl S
ena tuk
p Da
1 elun ng
anju
Jl T
20 Jl Setia Budhi
Jl Juanda
Jl Riau

Jl Ahmad Yani
Jl Dr S Ratulang 3
i Jl Hasanuddin
Senapalan
Shopping Jl Kuatan

Jl Dr Sutomo
2
Centre
4 Jl Teuku Umar
Jl Mohammed Yamin Mal Pekanbaru
Jl Monginsidi 18 12
Jl Tangkuban Perahu
Jl Teratai

14 13
Jl Gatot Subroto
INFORMATION Jl Cokroaminoto
Pasar 7

��
BCA Bank................................1 C3 Pusat 17 Raja)
2 Jl Sisingamangaraja (Jl SM
BII Bank....................................2 C1 Jl Imam Bonjol
BNI Bank..................................3 C1
Micronet..................................4 B2 Jl Agussalim
Post Office...............................5 C3 Jl Hangtuah
21
Riau Provincial Tourist Office...6 C3
Jl Pangeran Hidajat
Telkom Wartel.........................7 C2

Jl Beri
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 19
Jl Sudirman

Balai Adat Daerah Riau............8 C3

ngin
Jl Diponegoro

��
Mesjid Raya..............................9 B1 5
Museum Negeri Riau.............10 C4 an
hl 1 Jl Kartini
Riau Cultural Park..................11 C4 Da
KH
Jl
SLEEPING Police
3 Station 6
Governor's
Grand Jatra Hotel...................12 C2 Governor's House
Office Jl Gajah Mada
Hotel Dyan Graha..................13 C2

SUMATRA
Hotel Rauda...........................14 C2 Taman 8 Jl R Warsito
Poppie's Homestay................15 C4 Jl Durian Kacamayang
Jl P

Shorea Hotel..........................16 C4 University

epa

of Riau
ya

EATING
Ayam Bakar Wong Solo.........17 C2 Jl Pattimura
Vanhollano Bakery.................18 C2

TRANSPORT 16 ini II
u kI
Garuda..................................19 C3 Jl K 15 peda
ai em
Lion Air...................................20 B1 b Jl C
Ram
Jl T

4 Mandala................................21 C2 Jl g
bin
ask

Merpati...............................(see 19) ka elim 11

Jl B
uru

Sungai Duku Port...................22 C1 a ng Jl Harapan Raya

Jl N 10
n

To Bus To Airport (5km)

Terminal (5km)

Orientation Micronet (Jl Mohammed Yamin 11; per hr 10,000Rp;

The main street of Pekanbaru is Jl Sudirman. h9am-10pm) Internet cafe and travel agency.

Almost everything of importance to travellers – Post office (Jl Sudirman) Between Jl Hangtuah and Jl

banks, hotels and offices – can be found here Kartini.

or close by. Speedboats leave from the Sungai Riau Provincial Tourist Office (%31562; Jl Gajah

Duku port. The bus terminal is 5km west of Mada 200; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu, 8-11am Fri)

town. Telkom wartel (Jl Sudirman; h8am-9pm) About 1km

north of the post office.

Information
Most of the city’s banks and ATMs are spread Sights
along Jl Sudirman. There are plenty of travel If you’ve got time to burn, you could check
agencies around town that can book plane and out the rather standard displays at Museum
bus tickets as well as tours of the local area. Negeri Riau (Jl Sudirman; admission 10,000Rp; h8am­
BCA Bank (Jl Sudirman 448)
2pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8am-noon Fri). The neighbouring
BII Bank (Jl Nangka 4) Changes US and Singapore dollars
Riau Cultural Park (Jl Sudirman; h8am-2pm Mon-Thu &
(cash and travellers cheques).
Sat, 8am-noon Fri) hosts occasional performances.
BNI Bank (Jl Sudirman)
Ask at the tourist office for details.
 450 R I AU • • Pe k a n b a r u Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

In the town centre, Balai Adat Daerah Riau Getting There & Away
(Jl Diponegoro; h8am-2pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 8am-noon Fri) AIR
maintains a few modest exhibits of traditional Pekanbaru’s Simpang Tiga airport has five
Malay culture. The Mesjid Raya (Jl Mesjid Raya), direct flights to Jakarta each day with Batavia
near the river, dates back to the 18th century, Air, Lion Air, Mandala and Garuda. Flights to
when Pekanbaru was the capital of the Siak Medan are handled by Sriwijaya and Merpati.
sultanate. The courtyard holds the graves of Garuda and Lion Air also have flights to Batam
the fourth and fifth sultans. through which you can connect to Singapore
flights. Also, AirAsia flies direct to/from Kuala
Sleeping Lumpur, Singapore and Jakarta.
Most midrange hotels line Jl Sudirman and Travel agents are located along Jl Sudirman.
are oriented towards business clientele. If your You can also find the following airline
timing is right, you may be able to broker offices:
considerable discounts. Garuda (Garuda Indonesia; %45063; Hotel Pangeran, Jl
Poppie’s Homestay (%45762; Jl Cempedak III; r Sudirman 371-373)
80,000Rp) Basic budget rooms in a converted Lion Air (%40670; Mutiara Merdeka Hotel, Jl Yos
house within a residential neighbourhood. Sudarso 12A)
It is tricky to find, but locals will be able to Mandala (%856777; Jl Sudirman 115)
point you in the right direction once you turn Merpati (Merpati Nusantara Airlines; %21575; Jl
off Jl Nangka. Sudirman 371)
Shorea Hotel (%48239; Jl Taskurun 100; d from
120,000Rp; a) A good-value place with clean, BOAT
modern rooms, in a quiet spot off the main Pekanbaru’s Sungai Duku port is at the end
drag. of Jl Sultan Syarif Qasyim. Before flights be­
Hotel Rauda (%36278; [email protected]; Jl came so affordable, many travellers bounced
SUMATRA

Tangkuban Perahu 4; r incl breakfast 266,000-388,000Rp; between Pekanbaru and Batam’s Sekupang
a) A solid and centrally located midrange port (285,000Rp, six hours, 8am departure)
option. The rooms are nothing special and en route to Singapore. However when all the
ultimately forgettable. fares are tallied up, it is a long, expensive haul
Hotel Dyan Graha (% 26600; www.dyangraha compared to flying.
.co.id; Jl Gatot Subroto 7; r incl breakfast 350,000-850,000Rp; From Pekanbaru, boats also go to Melaka,
ais) Conveniently central, this is one Malaysia, three times a week (economy/
of Pekanbaru’s upmarket options. The bath­ cabin 405,000/750,000Rp, eight hours, 9am
rooms are certainly a plus. Rates include departure), Tanjung Pinang on Pulau Bintan
breakfast and tax. (142,000Rp), Tanjung Balai on Palau Karimun
Grand Jatra Hotel (%850 888; www.jatrahotelpekan (230,000Rp) and Tanjung Samak on Pulau
baru.com; Komplek Mal Pekanbaru, Jl Tangkuban Perahu; r incl Rangsang (185,000Rp). It’s also possible
breakfast 508,000-1,588,000Rp; ais) Visiting oil to go down Sungai Siak to Tanjung Buton
executives stay at this brand-new spot, which (80,000Rp) and Selat Panjang (145,000Rp).
provides international standards and decor. Ticket agents are located at the pier.

Eating BUS
There are innumerable places to eat along Jl Pekanbaru’s Terminal Nangka, 5km west of
Sudirman, particularly at night around the the town centre, is modern and uncharac­
market at the junction with Jl Imam Bonjol. teristically organised for Sumatra. There are
Vanhollano Bakery (Jl Sudirman 153; burgers 12,000Rp) posted prices and even staffed ticket booths
If you need a rest from total immersion in within the terminal. If you don’t want to be
Indonesian food, you can eat safely with these ripped off, buy tickets directly from the booths
cakes, pastries, hamburgers and ice cream. It rather than the freelancers who roam the ter­
also serves fresh fruit juices. minal. Destinations include Bengkulu (air-con
Ayam Bakar Wong Solo (%32962; Jl Sudirman 115,000Rp), Bukittinggi (80,000Rp, five hours),
227; mains 15,000Rp) Not fancy but every­ Dumai (economy 30,000Rp, five hours), Jambi
thing you’ll need: an air-con retreat from (economy/air-con 75,000/150,000, 12 hours),
steamy Pekanbaru which serves Indonesian Medan (economy 120,000Rp, 12 hours) and
standards. Padang (economy 50,000Rp, six hours).
lonelyplanet.com R I AU • • A r o u n d Pe k a n b a r u 451

Getting Around There are frequent buses from Dumai to

Airport taxis charge 60,000Rp for the 10km Padang (economy/air-con 90,000/120,000Rp,
trip into town. 12 hours), Bukittinggi (80,000Rp, 10 hours)
Opelet around Pekanbaru cost a standard and Pekanbaru (50,000Rp, five hours). There
2000Rp. From the port, catch a light-blue are also minibus services timed with the arriv­
opelet to Pasar Pusat on Jl Sudirman. Green als of the boats from Pulau Batam.
opelet on Jl Nangka shuttle between town and
the bus terminal. RIAU ISLANDS
The Riau Islands are scattered like confetti
AROUND PEKANBARU across the South China Sea. The locals say
Some 120km downriver from Pekanbaru there are as many islands as there are grains
is Siak Sri Inderapura, site of the beautiful in a cup of pepper. That would be about 3214
Asserayah el Hasyimiah Palace, built in 1889 islands in all, more than 700 of them uninhab­
by the 11th sultan of Siak, Sultan Adbul ited and many of them unnamed.
Jalil Syafuddin. It was the seat of the Siak Pulau Batam and Pulau Bintam are practi­
sultanate until 1945. The palace was restored cally suburbs of Singapore, with the attendant
as a museum in 1989 but the best artefacts industry and recreation. In fact, the islands
have been removed to Jakarta. The site also prefer to think of themselves as distinct from
houses a dazzling white mosque with a silver mainland Sumatra. Further away in the ar­
dome. chipelago are the remote islands of Anambas,
You can stay at the basic Penginapan Monalisa Natuna and Tambelan.
(s/d 50,000Rp), by the dock in Siak.
To get there take the boat from the Sungai PULAU BATAM
Duku port at 7.30am (economy/cabin %0778 / pop 440,000
50,000/60,000Rp, four hours). Nowhere in Sumatra is the pace of develop­

SUMATRA
ment more rapid than on Batam. With the
DUMAI island’s proximity to Singapore, Batam is
%0765 / pop 180,000 the labour-intensive production leg of the
Like most of Pekanbaru’s oil, travellers enter Singapore–Johor Baru industrial triangle.
and exit Dumai through its port. Most are Land and labour are cheaper here than in
bound for the Malaysian port of Melaka. Singapore and many electronics companies
Although airfares between Malaysia and have established production plants in the
Sumatra are often more competitive, many industrial park of Mukakuning. Much like
travellers are still smitten with the idea of the factory towns outside of Hong Kong,
sailing the high seas. Mukakuning employs and houses mainly
If you get stuck in town, try the very basic young women from impoverished areas of
Wisma Hang Tua (Jl Sudirman 431; d with fan from Indonesia. Hardly anyone living in Batam
50,000Rp); Hotel Tasia Ratu (%31341 Jl St Syarif Kasim is a native and half the population is under
65; d 120,000Rp), a tolerable midrange option; 30 years old.
or Comfort Hotel (%34888, reservation by SMS 0813 Higher up the economic food chain are
6510 0888; www.comfortdumai.com; Jl Sudirman 58; r incl the Western managers and executives who
breakfast 265,000-550,000Rp; aiW), Dumai’s oversee the factories, as well as engineers
fanciest place. employed by one of the island’s largest mul­
Ferries travel daily to Pulau Batam tinationals, J Ray McDermott, which makes
(245,000Rp, seven hours). Two Pelni boats offshore oil rigs and pipelines.
call at Dumai then Pulau Bintan en route In addition to industry, the island has made
to Jakarta. There are also irregular interna­ several unsuccessful bids at diversifying into a
tional ferry routes to Melaka, Port Dickson tourist destination. Because its miles of coast­
and Port Klang in Malaysia. Melaka-bound line are too close to Singapore’s harbour to
ferries depart from the Yos Sudarso port of be swimmable, resorts have tried to distract
Dumai three times a day at 8am, 10.30am tourists with golfing and gambling, a promis­
and 1pm (one way/return 260,000/470,000Rp, ing combination until the Indonesian govern­
two hours). You must check in at the port two ment unplugged the casinos.
hours before departure in order to clear im­ The next jackpot scheme is to develop the
migration. The port tax is 3500Rp. island as a retirement community for East
 SUMATRA
0 20 km
PULAU BATAM & PULAU BINTAN 0 12 miles
Ferries to Ferries to
Singapore (10km) Singapore (10km) Selat Singapore Ferry to Singapore (10km);
Ferry to Pulau Johor Bahru (15km) Teluk Tanjung Berakit
Teluk
Karimun (10km); Pulau Kundur (20km); Tering Nongsa Sumpat
Kuala Tungkal (170km); Dumai (250km); Batu Ampar Pasir
Pekanbaru (275km) Sambau Batu Lagoi
Bengkong NATUNA
Nagoya Besar
SEA
Pulau
Sekupang Bintan
Selat Batam Hang Nadim Kota Gunung
Melaka Centre Airport Bugis Sebung Bintan Besar Teluk Dalam
(348m)
Pulau Pantai
Waterfront Batam Trikora
Telaga Batu 66
City Tanjung Teluk Bakau
Punggur Uban
Bagan Simpang Teluk
Pulau Sagulung Loban Bintan Pulau
Telukbakau Busung Kangka Mapur
Tembeling
Maranmen
Pulau
Bulan
Senggarang
Pulau
Selat Setoko Airnanti Selat Pulau
Combol Dampak Penyenget Pulau
Batu 10 Korinda Pangkil Besar
Tanjung
452 R I AU • • Pu l a u B a t a m & Pu l a u B i n t a n

Rubokepaku Pinang
Pulau Pulau
Pangkil Kijang Poto
Pulau Pulau Sembulang Airport
Combol Rempang
Sugi Pulau
Pulau Kijang
Pulau Kelong
Pulau Sugi
Sugibawah Cilim
Pulau
Moro Pulau Baru Gin Besar
Sinyantungo Karas Besar
Pulau
Pulau Mantang Pulau
Galang Senjolong
Pulau
Selat Pulau Telan Pulau
Durian Durian Numbing

Pulau
Petong
Selat Pulau
Dempo Galang
Sanglar Baru
Pulau Pulau
Sangalar Besar Abang NATUNA
Pulau Besar SEA
Durai Palauabang
Pulau
Pengelap
Durai
Pulau
Benan

Ferry to Pulau
Penuba (80km); Pulau Pulau Pulau
To Pekanbaru (300km) Singkep (100km); Temiang Mesanak
Palembang (600km)
lonelyplanet.com
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels R I AU • • Pu l a u B a t a m 453

Asians, Singaporeans and Jakarta-based Bank Danamon (Jl Imam Bonjol) Across from Goodway

Chinese. New housing complexes are going Hotel.

up faster than new factories. Batam Tourist Promotion Board (%322 871; next

Besides using Batam as a transit point for door to Sekupang domestic terminal) Can help with local

boats from Singapore to Sumatra, it is unlikely information and hotel bookings but keeps erratic hours.

that a tourist would purposely come to Batam. Post office (Jl Imam Bonjol)

The majority of foreigners here arrive on cor­

porate assignments and find that the island SLEEPING
has cultivated a bit of a boys’ club ambience. Hotel Grand Palace (%432 529; Komplek Nagoya Business
The main town of Nagoya has plenty of girlie Centre, Block 1; d from 100,000-170,000Rp; a) The best
bars to make the buttoned-down execs feel value around for those on a budget. The tiled-
like studs. floor rooms come with air-con, hot water,
cable TV and clean, sleepable beds.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION Hotel Bahari (%421 911; Komplek Nagoya Square,
Most travellers to Batam arrive at the northern Block D; r incl breakfast from 140,000-330,000Rp; a)
port of Sekupang by boat from Singapore. Bahari I and II occupy the block, with comfy
Sekupang has an international and domestic concrete boxes and hot and cold showers.
terminal next door to each other and all the Breakfast included.
short-term necessities that new arrivals need: Goodway Hotel (%426 888; www.goodwayhotel.com;
immigration desk and money changers. There Jl Imam Bonjol; r incl breakfast 590,000-750,000Rp; as)
are no ATMs at Sekupang, so arrive with cash Displaced gentleman are lucky to have this
to avoid a taxi to Nagoya. classic hotel in this far-flung corner of the
The main town on the island is Nagoya, world. The decor is subdued and the best
with hotels, banks and other necessities. To rooms have balconies.
the south is the island’s administrative centre, Planet Holiday (%433 555; www.planetholidayho

SUMATRA
Batam Centre, which also has port facilities. tel.com; Jl Raja Ali Haji; r incl breakfast 600,000-725,000Rp;
Waterfront City and Nongsa are the sur­ ais) Service is crisp, the rooms are mod­
viving resort areas that attract Batam expats ern and as the tallest building in town there
on weekends and package tourists from else­ are views over squatty Batam.
where in Asia.
On Batam, Singapore dollars are as easy to EATING & DRINKING
spend as the Indonesian rupiah. Nagoya has a tasty mix of Indonesian and
Chinese restaurants, and warungs.
Nagoya Grill Bar (%701 3670; Goodway Hotel, Jl Imam Bonjol;
This is the original boom town, showing a mains from 50,000Rp; h10am-11pm) Chase away
lot more skin than you’ll find in the rest of the nasi goreng blues with a meal of New
Sumatra. The heart of town is the Nagoya Zealand Angus steaks at this cherished expat
Entertainment District, where bars and mas­ restaurant.
sage parlours indulge male camaraderie with Kedai Kopi Indah (mains from 20,000Rp) A popular
lap dances and take-home prizes. Although it in-town stop for Chinese-style seafood dishes,
ain’t pretty, Nagoya is ultimately functional, such as pepper crab and fish claypot. Located
with Western-geared food and entertainment behind Panorama Hotel.
sneaking in just under Singapore prices. Golden Prawn (Bengkong; mains from 50,000Rp) This
The city is divided up like Singapore into famous kelong (open-air seafood restaurant)
main avenues and tributary blocks and exhib­ is considered one of the best on the island.
its a certain Chinese industriousness similar Everything is charged by the kilo.
to the city-state. Most of the hotels in Nagoya For local food, head to the night market
have travel agencies. (Jl Raja Ali Haji) or the big and raucous Pujasera
Nagoya (food centre, opposite Hotel Sahid Rashinta).
INFORMATION Goodway Wine Bar (%426 888; Goodway Hotel, Jl
Awal Brothers Hospital (%431 777; Jl Baloi)
Imam Bonjol) Through the wild-west saloon doors
Western-trained doctors and international facilities, 7km
is a comfortable tap room for unwinding ex-
south of Nagoya.
pats. Kenneth, the publican, once peddled his
Barelang Internet (Komplek Batam Plaza 4; per hr
‘very British’ demeanour in Hollywood, a role
10,000Rp)
he plays out here today.
 454 R I AU • • Pu l a u B a t a m lonelyplanet.com

Waterfront City BOAT

Near the shipyards, Waterfront City’s resorts Batam has five ports and services between
are a strange occurrence: beachside resorts Singapore, the Sumatran mainland and other
without beach activities. Instead they focus Riau Islands.
on resort diversions: swimming, spa-ing,
golfing and organised activities. These re­ To Pulau Bintan
sorts are heavily marketed to East Asians, The ferry dock at Telaga Punggur, 30km
mainly Koreans. Weekday discounts through southeast of Nagoya, is the main port for
travel agents might override the obvious speedboats to Bintan. The departure tax is
drawbacks. 3500Rp.
Harris Resort (%381 888; d 599,000Rp; ais) Boats to Bintan’s Tanjung Pinang (one
This fun-in-the-sun resort is targeted to fami­ way/return 45,000/85,000Rp, every 20 min­
lies and folks of all ages. utes from 7.30am to 5.50pm) take one hour.
Holiday Inn Resort (%381 333; r incl breakfast S$181­ There are also boats to Bintan’s Lagoi resort
194; aiWs) Mainly a corporate hotel, area (one way/return 110,000/190,000Rp,
Holiday Inn has classically decorated suites three daily).
with balconies overlooking the pool. The
internationally recognised spa is a fave for To Elsewhere in Indonesia
Singaporeans who don’t want to trek all the The main reason travellers come to Batam is
way to Bali. due to its links with the Sumatran mainland.
Dumai Express and Surya Gemilang Jaya are
Nongsa the best of the domestic carriers.
Batam’s prettiest, but still unswimmable, Boats leave from Batam’s Sekupang ter­
beach occupies the less-developed Nongsa pe­ minal to Pekanbaru (210,000Rp, six hours,
ninsula. Casino resorts had provided the big­ two morning departures). In order to make
SUMATRA

gest draw for nearby Singaporeans, but ever the connection without spending the night
since the Indonesian government outlawed on Batam, you’ll need to catch the first ferry
gambling, the area has quietened down. from Singapore at 7.30am and assume that the
Turi Beach Resort (%761 086; d from S$125; Indonesian boats are running late as usual.
ais) Of the surviving resorts, Turi is There are also two morning boats from
the best and provides a close but delicious es­ Sekupang to Dumai (220,000Rp, six hours),
cape for Batam-bound visitors. The thatched- one morning boat to Kuala Tungkal
roof huts designed in the Balinese style have (230,000Rp) on the Jambi coast, and three
all the mid-life comforts and a linen-suit boats weekly to Palembang (305,000Rp, eight
ambience. hours).
Golf courses in Nongsa offer attractive pro­ Other destinations from Sekupang port
motional packages (from S$70 to S$100) dur­ include Karimun (70,000Rp, one hour,
ing the week; Singapore-based travel agents hourly from 8am to 4pm) and Pulau Kundur
typically have the best rates. Nongsa’s two (85,000Rp, two hours, hourly from 8am to
courses are Tering Bay (%778 761; 818 Jl Hang Lekiu, 2.30pm).
Km 4), which was designed by Greg Norman, Pelni ships pass through Batam to and from
and Palm Spring Golf Resort (%761 222; Jl Hang Belawan (the port for Medan) and Jakarta. The
Leiku). tickets can be bought at the domestic ferry ter­
Nongsa’s favourite kelong is the Rezeki minal or at travel agencies in Nagoya.
Kelong (Batu Besar; mains from 50,000Rp).
Singapore
Getting There & Away Frequent services shuttle between Singapore
AIR and Batam, taking between 25 minutes and
Hang Nadim airport is on the eastern side of 45 minutes depending on the pier. Tickets
the Pulau Batam. Garuda, Merpati, Mandala, for all ferries to Singapore cost S$30/54 one
Bouraq and Air Asia operate to/from Jakarta. way/return. There is a S$7 harbour-departure
Merpati destinations also include Medan, tax upon leaving Batam and an hour time
Padang, Palembang, Jambi and Pekanbaru, difference between Indonesia and Singapore.
as well as Pontianak in Kalimantan. Jatayu Penguin has the biggest and fastest ferries
also flies to Medan. (taking 25 minutes).
lonelyplanet.com R I AU • • Pu l a u B i n t a n 455

ISLAND IN THE SUN

Imagine an island made up of a handful of salt-white beaches, emerald waters and nobody but
you and your personally selected guests. Robinson Crusoe goes luxury on Pulau Pangkil (www
.pangkil.com; island hire for up to 10 guests from S$2600;s) an exclusive private island available for hire.
Guests have a choice of romantic ‘Driftwood Palaces’ to sleep in, which are scattered up and down
the island’s main two beaches. Butlers, maids, a swimming pool and all sorts of beach activities
are on hand to ensure that island survival is as easy as possible. The tiny speck is around a 30­
minute boat hop from Tanjung Pinang and regularly houses up to 30 guests, normally Western
expats from Singapore, who take over the island as a single group and get up to all kinds of
debauchery. The rule goes what happens on Pangkil stays on Pangkil.

Sekupang is most widely used by tour­ folk at Indonesia’s marketing department are
ists because the terminal that receives boats boasting Bintan to be the next Bali, which is
from Singapore’s Harbourfront Centre is more than optimistic but some of the beaches
next door to the domestic terminal for trans­ do justify the comparison.
fer to the Sumatran mainland. The boats There’s little reason or means for a budget
to Singapore run approximately every hour traveller to stop off here, but those with deeper
from 6am to 6.45pm, and from Singapore to pockets will find high-end resorts on the north
Batam from 7.30am to 8pm. Batam Centre side of the island, complete with delicious
and Waterfront City have services only to/ shores and all the trimmings.
from Singapore’s Harbourfront Centre. The
last boat to leave the island departs from Tanjung Pinang
Batam Centre at 9.30pm. Waterfront City’s The main port town on the island is a bus­

SUMATRA
schedule is fairly limited, with only four de­ tling mercantile centre with more ethnic
partures per day. Ferries to Nongsa shuttle diversity than most Sumatran towns. There
back and forth to Singapore’s Tanah Merah, is lots of provincial-style shopping and nib­
with eight departures per day between 8am bling on Chinese and Indonesian specialities.
and 8pm. Located nearby are several traditional-style
At Sekupang port don’t buy a ticket from villages and temple attractions that tickle
the many touts, and refuse any offers of ‘assist­ the culture-bone of the many weekending
ance’ to see you through immigration. Singaporeans.

Getting Around ORIENTATION & INFORMATION

Taxis are the primary way to get around Pulau The port, hotels, and other necessities are
Batam. Sample fares are as follows: from all within walking distance. There are plenty
Sekupang to Nagoya (10,000Rp, 45 min­ of ATMs around town and bank branches,
utes) and Batam Centre to Nagoya (6,000Rp, mainly on Jl Teuku Umar.
30 minutes). From the airport, it will cost Bank Mandiri (Jl Teuku Umar)

100,000Rp to Sekupang, 80,000Rp to Nagoya BCA Bank (Jl Ketapang)

and 75,000Rp to Batam Centre. Bintan Internet Centre (Jl Pos; per hr 10,000Rp;

Blue-and-white bemo shuttle between h9am-10pm)

Nongsa and Nagoya (15,000Rp). There’s BNI Bank (Jl Teuku Umar)

also a public bus from Telaga Punggur to Extreme Internet (Jl Mawar 9A; per hr 10,000Rp;

Nagoya (10,000Rp). A taxi on the same route h10am-10pm) On the 2nd floor of a wartel office.

is 75,000Rp. Pinang Jaya Tour & Travel (%21267; Jl Bintan 44)

Air tickets.

PULAU BINTAN Post office (Jl Merdeka) Near the harbour, on Tanjung

%0771 / pop 200,000 Pinang’s main street.

Just across the water from Batam, Pulau Tourist information centre (%31822; Jl Merdeka

Bintan has been receiving a billing as the 5; h8am-5pm) Behind the police station; the helpful

next big luxury destination. Bintan is trying to English-speaking staff organise city tours.

market itself as the high-end playground for Wartel (Jl Bintan)

the new money from East Asia. Certainly, the Wartel (Jl Merdeka)

 456 R I AU • • Pu l a u B i n t a n lonelyplanet.com

TANJUNG PINANG 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles

A B C NATUNA SEA D
To Senggarang (5km); 19
INFORMATION Sungai Ular (15km) TRANSPORT
Bank Mandiri..................................1 C3 Pejantan II Boat to Sungai Ular....................(see 19)
BCA Bank.......................................2 C2 Boats to Pulau Penyengat.............16 B3
1 Bintan Internet Centre....................3 B2 Ferry & Speedboat Ticket Agents..17 C3
BNI Bank........................................4 C3 Ferry & Speedboat Ticket Agents..18 B3

Jl P
Extreme Internet............................5 D3 Ferry to Senggarang.....................19 C1

lan
tar
Pinang Jaya Tour & Travel..............6 C3 Pelni.............................................20 C2
Post Office.....................................7 B3

II
Tourist Information Centre.............8 B3
Wartel...........................................9 C3
Wartel.........................................(see 7)

Jl P
SLEEPING

asa
Bong’s Homestay.........................10 C3

r
Hotel Laguna...............................11 C3
Hotel Melia...................................12 B3
Hotel Surya..................................13 C3 n ambir Baru
2 ka Jl G
rI 15
sa
EATING Pa 20
Jl
Food Court..................................14 D3 Jl T
Lorong Merde Chinese em
Pasar Buah...................................15 C2 ka ian

Jl
Temple 2 g

Ke
ta
3

pa
Bintan Jl M

ng
aw
s

Indah Mall
Jl Po

ar

tai
5

era
12 Jl T

Jl T
eu 1
I
ku
an

Um
int

ar

ai
4
eka

gB

at
Jl Bak

er
Main Pier Bestari Mall & Jl G ar Ba
on
erd

T
ere tu

Jl
Lor

Supermarket
Jl M

7 ja
3 Volleyball 14 To Bus Terminal (7km);
Boats to Batam (40km); 8 Jl B Stadium
16 int Pantai Trikora (45km);
II

Singapore (60km); 17 an Tanjung Uban (115km)

tan

Police
SUMATRA

Jakarta (900km) Jl S 13 Jl M
Bin

M Station 10
esj
Am 6
ong

id
in 11
Lor

To Pulau 18 9
Mosque
Penyengat (2km) Jl T
f Khahar abib
Jl Yusu

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES stilted houses, while the ruins of the old palace
You can stroll around Tanjung Pinang in of Rajah Ali and the tombs and graveyards of
a leisurely hour. The older part of town Rajah Jaafar and Rajah Ali are clearly sign-
is found around the narrow piers near Jl posted inland. The most impressive site is
Plantar II. The harbour hosts a constant the sulphur-coloured mosque, with its many
stream of vessels, from tiny sampans to large domes and minarets. Dress appropriately or
freighters. you won’t be allowed in.
The following sites can be visited independ­ There are frequent boats to Pulau Penyenget
ently or through tour programs arranged with from Bintan’s main pier (4000Rp, from 7am
the tourist office. to 5pm). There’s a 2000Rp entry charge at
weekends.
Pulau Penyenget
Only a short hop across the harbour from Senggarang
Tanjung Pinang, tiny Penyenget was once A fascinating village sits just across the har-
the capital of the Riau rajahs. The island is bour from Tanjung Pinang. The star attrac-
believed to have been given to Rajah Riau- tion is an old Chinese temple, now suspended
Lingga VI in 1805 by his brother-in-law, in the roots of a huge banyan that has grown
Sultan Mahmud, as a wedding present. up through it.
Another historical footnote is that the The temple is to the left of the pier, where
Penyenget-based sultanate cooperated with boats from Tanjung Pinang dock. Half a
Sir Stamford Raffles to hand over Singapore kilometre along the waterfront, Vihara Darma
in exchange for British military protection Sasana, a complex of three temples, all said to
in 1819. be more than a century old, occupy a large
The island is littered with interesting rel­ courtyard facing the sea.
ics and can be walked in a couple of hours. Boats to Senggarang (15,000Rp) leave from
The coastline is dotted with traditional Malay Pejantan II wharf.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels R I AU • • Pu l a u B i n t a n 457

Sungai Ular To get to the outlying beaches is expensive.

Snake River swims through mangrove forests A taxi from Tanjung Pinang to Pantai Trikora
to Jodoh temple, the oldest Chinese temple in is a long ride and will cost 250,000Rp. You can
Riau Islands. The temple is decorated with also fish around for share taxis, but most driv­
gory murals depicting the trials and tortures of ers won’t want to cut a deal with a ‘rich’ for­
hell. You can charter a sampan (80,000Rp for eigner. If you head out to the main highway,
five people) from Tanjung Pinang harbour. you can catch Barakit-bound public buses that
pass through Trikora (20,000Rp).
SLEEPING & EATING Another not-so-affordable option is to rent
All of Tanjung Pinang’s accommodation is a car, which gives you flexibility in explor­
within walking distance of the harbour. ing the beaches around the island. Rico Rental
Bong’s Homestay (Lorong Bintan II 20; d 30,000Rp) (%315931; Jl Yos Sudarso 1) rents Kijang (4WD
This alleyway home has been running since vehicles) for 250,000Rp per day (not including
1972 and has very basic rooms. The family petrol). Renting a car in Tanjung Pinang is
speaks excellent English – specialist subjects cheaper than relying on the resorts in Lagoi.
include English Football and ’70s rock.
Hotel Surya (%318 387; Jl Bintan 49; s/d incl breakfast Pantai Trikora & Around
55,000/90,000Rp; a) Quality varies at this multi- Bintan’s east coast is lined with rustic beaches
storey hotel. Fan rooms are basic concrete and simple wooden bungalows. The main
boxes, while some rooms have sunny windows beach is Pantai Trikora, which is pretty enough
and new paint. at high tide but turns into miles of mud flats
Hotel Laguna (%311 555; Jl Bintan 51; d incl break­ at low tide. The beaches to the north around
fast 302,500-387,200Rp; aW) Tanjung Pinang’s Malangrupai have more consistent surf and
corporate stay, with big beds and walk-in turf. Regardless though, the area is relatively
shower. deserted: just you, the ocean and a few nap­

SUMATRA
Hotel Melia (%21898; Jl Pos 25; d incl breakfast ping dogs. A group of small islands off Pantai
262,500-525,000Rp; aW) Bright and airy rooms Trikora are well worth visiting and there is
and enormous suites with views over the good snorkelling outside the monsoon season
harbour. (November to March).
In front of the volleyball stadium on Jl
Teuku Umar, an open-air food court (mains SLEEPING & EATING
8000Rp) whips up tasty snacks. Accommodation at Trikora is outside the vil­
If you’re looking for Padang food, there are lage of Teluk Bakau. Hotels listed here can
several places on Jl Plantar II serving good fish organise snorkelling trips to offshore islands
or jackfruit curries. (150,000Rp).
The colourful pasar buah (fruit market) Shady Shack (%081 3645 15223; www.lobo.kinemo
is at the northern end of Jl Merdeka. In the tion.de; d with breakfast S$25) A handful of weather­
evening there are several food stalls scattered beaten shacks face directly to the sea. This
around town serving mie bangka, a Hakka­ is just a step above camping and is a good
style dumpling soup. excuse not to shower or brush your teeth.
Quad rooms also available (S$40).
GETTING THERE & AWAY Gurindam Resort (%26234; Telok Bakau, Km 35;
See p458 for transport options to/from weekday/weekend d with breakfast 180,000/220,000Rp)
Tangjung Pinang. Designed like an Islamic fishing village with
stilt-frame bungalows built over the water,
GETTING AROUND this is a dream come true for down-to-earth
It is fairly easy to get around central Tangjung family getaways. There’s fishing in the at­
Pinang by catching one of the many opelet tached fish ponds, a thatched-roof restaurant
(3000Rp). The opelet don’t have fixed routes, big enough for energetic tots, and a small
so tell the driver your destination and see if swimming beach.
he agrees.
The bus terminal is inconveniently located Lagoi
7km out of Tanjung Pinang, along the road to Bintan’s resort area stretches along the north­
Pantai Trikora. But there aren’t many services ern coastline of the island along Pasir Lagoi,
that leave from here. with acres of wilderness buffering the hotels
 458 R I AU • • Pu l a u B i n t a n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

from commoners to the south. Security GETTING AROUND

is in full effect, with checkpoints at access For Lagoi-bound visitors, most resorts or­
roads and at hotel entrances. The beaches ganise shuttle service between the harbour
are sandy and swimmable, the resorts have at Kota Sebong and the hotels as part of the
polished four- and five-star service and there package price or for an additional S$6.
are water-sports activities and entertainment
for all ages. Getting There & Away
There are three golf courses in Lagoi de­ AIR
signed by champion golfers: Bintan Lagoon Kijang airport is currently used for cargo
Resort Golf Club (%0770 691 388; www.bintanlagoon. rather than passenger flights.
com; green fees weekday/weekend S$65/70), Laguna Bintan
Golf Club (%0770 693 188; [email protected]; BOAT
green fees weekday/weekend S$122/165) and top-rated Bintan has three ports and services to Palau
Ria Bintan Golf Club (%0770 692 839; www.riabintan. Batam, Singapore and other islands in the
com; green fees weekday/weekend S$150/210). Packages Riau archipelago.
include ferry from Singapore (weekday S$99 Tanjung Pinang is the busiest harbour and
to S$169, weekends S$130 to S$229). the best option for folks planning to stay in
Tanjung Pinang or Pantai Trikora. If you’re
SLEEPING bound for the resort area of Lagoi, the port
There are three resort compounds compris­ at Kota Sebung is more convenient. Tanjung
ing several hotel clusters, private beaches and Uban is the third option.
golf courses. Check with travel agents about
weekday discounts, which can be as gener­ To Batam
ous as 50%. See www.bintan-resorts.com for Regular speedboats depart from the main pier
property details. in Tanjung Pinang for Telaga Punggur on
SUMATRA

Of the three, we found the hotels within Batam (45,000Rp, 45 minutes) from 7.45am
Laguna Bintan (Angsana Resort and Banyan to 4.45pm daily. There are also boats that go
Tree) and Nirwana Gardens (Nirwana Resort) from Lagoi to Batam’s Telaga Punggur (one
compounds to be accommodating and well way/return 100,000/170,000Rp).
maintained.
Angsana Resort & Spa Bintan (%0770 693 111; To Elsewhere in Indonesia
www.angsana.com; package incl breakfast weekday US$220­ There are boats to Pekanbaru (280,000Rp,
520, weekend US$281-607; aWs) The more daily) and Dumai (220,000Rp, daily).
dressed-down companion to sophisticated Tickets for all of these destinations can
Banyan Tree, Angsana is best suited to young be bought from agents on Jl Merdeka in
professionals. The breezy common spaces are Tanjung Pinang, just outside of the harbour
decorated in zesty citrus colours, with private entrance.
rooms sporting a contemporary colonial style. Daily ferries travel to other islands in the
The superior rooms are nice but the suites Riau chain, such as Pulau Karimum’s Tanjung
are super. Balai (80,000Rp, 2½ hours), Pulau Lingga’s
Banyan Tree Bintan (%0770 693 100; www.ban Daik (70,000Rp, three hours), Sungai Buluh
yantree.com; package incl breakfast weekday/weekend on Singkep (60,000Rp, three hours) and
US$305/320; aWs) More private and privi­ Penuba (80,000Rp, three hours). The Anugra
leged than Angsana, Banyan Tree has famed Makmur company runs boats every 10 days
spa facilities and a high-powered retreat deep to the remote Natuna Islands.
in the jungle. The hotel shares the 900m-long Pelni sails to Jakarta weekly from the south­
beach with Angsana. ern port of Kijang. Travel agencies in Tanjung
Nirwana Resort Hotel (%0770 692 505; www.nirwa Pinang can supply tickets and schedules.
nagardens.com; package incl breakfast weekday US$180-360,
weekend US$228-440; aWs) More targeted to To Malaysia
local families, Nirwana is comfortable and un­ There are boats to Johor Bahru in Malaysia
fussy, with sweet staff but not the best beach. (150,000Rp, five departures daily) from
The lagoon-style pool has a large baby pool Tanjung Pinang. Tickets can be bought from
area, but the grounds are little thirsty. The agents on Jl Merdeka in Tanjung Pinang, just
suites have sea views and huge bathrooms. outside of the harbour entrance.
lonelyplanet.com R I AU • • O t h e r R i a u I s l a n d s 459

To Singapore able at the house next door – ask around for

Boats from Tanjung Pinang go to Singapore’s the caretaker – and you can eat at several
Tanah Merah (one way S$24) between 7am warungs along Jl Merdeka, the main street.
and 6.30pm. There are more frequent services A daily boat travels to Penuba from Tanjung
on the weekend. Pinang (80,000Rp, three hours) on Bintan, or
Bintan Resort Ferries (www.brf.com.sg) is the only you can charter a boat from Singkep for the
company that handles transport between half-hour trip.
Lagoi and Singapore; ticket prices vary based
on day of week but start at S$26. Pulau Lingga
Not much remains of the glory that was once
OTHER RIAU ISLANDS the royal island of Lingga except a few ne­
Few travellers reach the remote outer islands glected ruins. Today there are few creature
of Riau. Getting there is half the problem. comforts and little in the way of modern de­
Head to the better-serviced islands first, and velopment. The island resembles a crown and
you can usually organise to island-hop from rises sharply from the shore to form the three
there. jungle-clad peaks of Gunung Daik. The central
peak reaches 1163m and is the highest point
Pulau Singkep in the archipelago. Locals maintain that it has
Singkep is the third-largest island in the archi­ never been climbed.
pelago. Huge tin mines once provided most Daik, the main village and arrival point, is
of the island’s jobs, but since their closure hidden 1km up a muddy river. The town itself
much of the population has moved elsewhere is pretty much a single street, with some cargo
and the island has reverted to being a sleepy wharves and about a dozen Chinese shops. It
backwater. has a certain tropical, seedy charm and a very
The main town, Dabo, is shaded by lush laid-back atmosphere.

SUMATRA
trees and gardens and clustered around a cen­ The main site of historical interest is the
tral park. A large mosque dominates the sky­ modest ruin of the palace of Rajah Suleiman,
line. The fish and vegetable markets near the the last rajah of Riau-Lingga. Next to the
harbour are interesting, and Jl Pasar Lamar palace are the foundation stones of a build­
is a good browsing and shopping area. Batu ing said to have housed the rajah’s extensive
Bedaun, 4km from town, is a lovely white-sand harem. The palace was made of wood and
beach fringed with palms. little survives today, though the surrounding
There is accommodation available at the jungle hides overgrown bathing pools and
simple Wisma Gapura Singkep (%0776 21136; Jl squat toilets. The ruins are a two-hour walk
Perusalaan 41; d 50,000-240,000Rp). from Daik and you’ll need very clear direc­
You can eat at the markets behind Wisma tions or a guide to get you through the maze
Sri Indah or try any of the warungs on Jl Pasar of overgrown forest paths.
Lama and Jl Merdeka. Food stalls and warungs On the outskirts of Daik the Mesjid Sultan
pop up all over the place at night. Lingga houses the tomb of Rajah Mahmud
There’s one boat a day to Tanjung Pinang I, who ruled in the early 19th century. A
on Pulau Bintan (57,000Rp, three hours) and half-hour walk from town is the Makam Bukit
daily ferries to Daik on Pulau Lingga. Boats Cenckeh (Cenckeh Hill Cemetery) on a hill
dock at Singkep’s northern port of Sungai overlooking the river. The crumbling graves
Buluh, from where there are buses to Dabo. of Rajah Abdul Rakhman (r 1812–31) and
Several shops in Dabo act as ticket agencies. Rajah Muhammed (r 1832–41) are here. The
remains of an old fort are nearby.
Pulau Penuba There is one basic hotel (d around 60,000Rp) in
Penuba is a small island wedged between Daik, near the ferry dock on the main street.
Singkep and Lingga. It’s an idyllic place to do There are a few small warungs on the main
little but swim, walk and read. There are some street.
great beaches near the north-coast village of There are daily boats for the two-hour trip
Tanjung Dua and others near the main settle­ from Daik to Dabo on Singkep (50,000Rp),
ment, Penuba, on the southeastern coast. and there’s also a daily service to Tanjung
Penuba is a sleepy village centred around Pinang (80,000Rp, three hours) on Pulau
the Attaqwa Mosque. Accommodation is avail­ Bintan.
 460 J A M B I • • J a m b i lonelyplanet.com

Natuna Islands It is assumed that the temple ruins at Muara

These islands are right off the beaten track Jambi mark the site of Malayu’s former capi­
and difficult to reach. tal, the ancient city of Jambi – known to the
The population of Pulau Natuna Besar is fairly Chinese as Chan Pi. The Malayu sent their first
small, although there’s an extensive transmi- delegation to China in 644 and the Chinese
grasi program along Sungai Ulu, with settlers scholar I Tsing spent a month in Malayu in
from Java growing cash crops such as peanuts 672. When he returned 20 years later he found
and green peas. that Malayu had been conquered by Sriwijaya.
The islands are noted for fine basket-weave The Sriwijayans appear to have remained in
cloth and various kinds of traditional dance. One control until the sudden collapse of their em­
particularly idiosyncratic local dance is a kind pire at the beginning of the 11th century.
of Thousand & One Arabian Nights saga, Following Sriwijaya’s demise, Malayu re­
incorporating episodes from Riau-Lingga emerged as an independent kingdom and
history. stayed that way until it became a depend­
Ask in Tanjung Pinang on Pulau Bintan ency of Java’s Majapahit empire, which ruled
about infrequent boat services to Natuna. from 1278 until 1520. It then came under
the sway of the Minangkabau people of West
Sumatra.
JAMBI In 1616 the Dutch East India Company
opened an office in Jambi and quickly formed
For such a centrally located province, Jambi a successful alliance with Sultan Muhammed
is not easy to reach and sees few foreign visi­ Nakhruddin to protect its ships and cargoes
tors. The province occupies a 53,435-sq-km from pirates. It also negotiated a trade monop­
slice of central Sumatra, stretching from the oly with Nakhruddin and his successors. The
highest peaks of the Bukit Barisan range in the major export was pepper, which was grown in
SUMATRA

west to the coastal swamps facing the Strait of great abundance. In 1901 the Dutch East India
Melaka in the east. Company moved its headquarters to Palembang
The eastern lowlands are mainly rubber and effectively gave up its grip on Jambi.
and palm-oil plantations. Timber is also
big business, as is oil; Jambi’s main field is JAMBI
southeast of the capital (Jambi) on the South %0741 / pop 490,000
Sumatran border. The capital of Jambi province is the city of the
In the western portion of the province is same name, a busy river port about 155km
the Kerinci Seblat National Park, home to from the mouth of Sungai Batang Hari. Jambi
Sumatra’s highest peak, Gunung Kerinci is not known as a tourist destination, but those
(3805m), Sumatran tigers (Jambi’s faunal who have wandered the markets and watched
mascot) and rhinos. The park is covered in the the city in action have found that somewhere
West Sumatra section (see p442) as Padang has can be more fun than nowhere.
more convenient transit links than Jambi.
Most of the province is sparsely populated; Orientation
many are migrants from Java and Bali. In the Jambi sprawls over a wide area, a combination
province’s fast disappearing forests, the Orang of the old Pasar Jambi district spreading south
Rimba are an endangered hunter-gatherer from the port, and the new suburbs of Kota
tribe. Baru and Telanaipura to the west. Most of
the banks, hotels and restaurants are in Pasar
History Jambi near the junction of Jl Gatot Subroto
The province of Jambi was the heartland of the and Jl Raden Mattaher, while government
ancient kingdom of Malayu, which first rose buildings are out at Kota Baru.
to prominence in the 7th century. Much of
Malayu’s history is closely and confusingly en­ Information
twined with that of its main regional rival, the There are plenty of ATMs around town. Jl Dr
Palembang-based kingdom of Sriwijaya. The Sutomo is the primary bank street.
little that is known about Malayu has mostly Culture & Tourism Office (%445 056; Jl H Agus
been gleaned from the precise records main­ Salim, Kota Baru) The English-speaking staff are keen to
tained by the Chinese court of the time. promote the province and can organise city tours.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels J A M B I • • J a m b i 461

ORANG RIMBA
Jambi’s nomadic hunter-gatherers are known by many names: outsiders refer to the diverse
tribes collectively as Kubu, an unflattering term, while they refer to themselves as Orang Rimba
(People of the Forest) or Anak Dalam (Children of the Forest). Descended from the first wave
of Malays to migrate to Sumatra, they once lived in highly mobile groups throughout Jambi’s
lowland forests.
As fixed communities began to dominate the province, the Orang Rimba retained their nomadic
lifestyle and animistic beliefs, regarding their neighbours’ adoption of Islam and agriculture as
disrespectful towards the forest. Traditionally the Orang Rimba avoided contact with the outsid­
ers, preferring to barter and trade by leaving goods on the fringes of the forest or relying on
trusted intermediaries.
In the 1960s, the Indonesian government’s social affairs and religion departments campaigned
to assimilate the Orang Rimba into permanent camps and convert them to a monotheistic reli­
gion. Meanwhile the jungles were being transformed into palm-oil and rubber plantations during
large-scale transmigrasi from Java and Bali.
Some Orang Rimba assimilated and are now economically marginalised within the plantations,
while others live off government funds and then return to the forests. About 2500 Orang Rimba
retain their traditional lifestyles within the shrinking forest. The groups were given special settle­
ment rights within Bukit Duabelas and Bukit Tigapuluh National Parks, but the protected forests
are as vulnerable to illegal logging and poaching as other Sumatran parks.
In the opinions of the NGO groups that work with the Orang Rimba, it isn’t a question of if the
tribes will lose their jungle traditions but when. In the spirit of practical idealism, the organisa­
tion WARSI (www.warsi.or.id) established its alternative educational outreach. Rather than forcing
educational institutions on the Orang Rimba, teachers join those that will accept an outsider and

SUMATRA
teach the children how to read, write and count – the equivalent of knowing how to hunt and
forage in the settled communities.

Main Telkom wartel (Jl Dr Sumantri) In Telanaipura.

Sleeping
Post office (Jl Sultan Thaha 9) Near the port.
Accommodation in Jambi isn’t much of a
Thamrin Internet (Jl Gatot Subroto 6; per hr 5000Rp;
bargain, so you should opt for convenience
h10am-10pm) Internet access near Gloria Bookshop.
instead. The most social spot to base your­
Wartel (Jl Raden Mattaher; h8am-9pm) More
self is near the market, behind the Novotel,
convenient than the main Telekom wartel; you can make
where you’ll find a cluster of midrange and
international phone calls here.
top-end hotels.
Lukman Language Exchange (l_tanjung@yahoo
Sights & Activities .com) Delightful Jambi resident Lukman can
Jambi is the starting point for excursions to provide lodging in his home in exchange for a
the archaeological site of Muara Jambi (see few appearances by an English native speaker
p462). at his weekly tutoring sessions.
Museum Negeri Propinsi Jambi (cnr Jl Urip Sumoharjo Hotel Da’lia (%755 2309; Jl Camar 100; d with shared
& Prof Dr Sri Sudewi, Telanaipura; admission 2000Rp; bathroom 70,000Rp, d with air-con 150,000Rp; a) Basic
h8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri), one of the city’s few at­ and clean, this is the best you’ll get in the
tractions, is out in Telanaipura. It has a selec­ budget range.
tion of costumes and handicrafts, as well as a Hotel Abadi (%25600; Jl Gatot Subroto 92; d 410,000,
small historical display. Take an ojek (3000Rp d incl breakfast 550,000Rp; aisW) Otherwise
to 4000Rp). average top-end rooms at Hotel Abadi are
Nearby the museum is a batik centre that decorated with Jambi batik bedspreads for
produces and sells traditional Jambi textiles a local flair. Junior suites feature a tranquil
featuring striking floral motifs. The centre balcony.
also has a range of handicrafts from all over Novotel (%27208; [email protected]; Jl Gatot
the province, including songket weaving and Subroto 44; d 465,000-1,010,000Rp; i) Currently the
finely woven split-rattan baskets. The centre most expensive hotel in town but far from
provides employment for local women. being worth it.
 462 J A M B I • • M u a r a J a m b i lonelyplanet.com

Eating Getting Around

Saimen Perancis (Jl Raden Mattaher; pastries 2000Rp) An Airport taxis charge a standard 60,000Rp
excellent bakery that also serves meals. for the 8km run into town. Local transport
Simpang Raya (Jl Raden Mattaher 22; dishes 7000Rp) comprises the usual assortment of ojek and
An old friend in the nasi Padang game. opelet. Rawasari opelet terminal, off Jl Raden
Munri Food Centre (Jl Sultan Agung; mains 10,000Rp) Mattaher in the centre of town, is where all
More night-time eats set the night ablaze at opelet start and finish their journeys. The
this alfresco dining area. standard fare is 2000Rp.
Ancol (near Sungai Batang Hari) Just down from the
Trade Centre, this is an evening destination MUARA JAMBI
for promenading and river breezes. Stalls sell The large temple complex at Muara Jambi,
local favourites, such as nanas goreng (fried 26km downstream from Jambi, is the most
pineapples) and jagung bakar (roasted corn important Hindu-Buddhist site in Sumatra.
slathered with coconut milk and chillis). It is assumed that the temples mark the loca­
Pasar Makanan (Jl Sultan Iskandar Muda) Lots of tion of the ancient city of Jambi, capital of the
regional Palembang specialities, which Jambi kingdom of Malayu 1000 years ago. Most of
also claims as its own, get top billing at this the temples, known as candi, date from the 9th
busy market. to the 13th centuries, when Jambi’s power was
at its peak. However the best of the artefacts
Getting There & Away have been taken to Jakarta.
AIR For centuries the site lay abandoned and
The Sultan Thaka Airport is 6km east of the overgrown in the jungle on the banks of the
centre. Batavia Air and Mandala fly to Jakarta Batang Hari. It was ‘rediscovered’ in 1920
daily. Merpati flies to Batam. Most tickets are by a British army expedition sent to explore
available through travel agents, but Mandala the region.
SUMATRA

(%24341; Jl Gatot Subroto 42) also has an office.

Sights
BOAT It’s easy to spend all day at Muara Jambi (admission
Ratu Intan Permata (%60234; Simpang Kawat, Jl M by donation; h8am-4pm). The forested site covers
Yamin) operates connecting services from 12 sq km along the north bank of the Batang
Jambi to the coastal town of Kuala Tungkal Hari. The entrance is through an ornate arch­
(50,000Rp, two hours), from where there way in the village of Muara Jambi and most
are speedboats to Batam (210,000Rp, five places of interest are within a few minutes’
hours). walk of here.
Eight temples have been identified so far,
BUS each at the centre of its own low-walled com­
The highways to the south and north are in pound. Some are accompanied by perwara
poor condition, making bus travel an arduous candi (smaller side temples) and three have
task. Bus-ticketing offices occupy two areas of been restored to something close to their
town: Simpang Rimbo, 8km west of town, and original form. The site is dotted with numer­
Simpang Kawat, 3.5km southwest of town on ous menapo (smaller brick mounds), thought
Jl M Yamin. to be the ruins of other buildings – possibly
There are frequent economy buses to dwellings for priests and other high officials.
Palembang (60,000Rp, seven hours). The restored temple Candi Gumpung, straight
Ratu Intan Permata (%20784; Simpang Kawat, Jl ahead of the donation office, has a fiendish
M Yamin) has comfortable door-to-door mini­ makara (demon head) guarding its steps.
bus services to Pekanbaru (190,000Rp, eight Excavation work here has yielded some im­
hours), Bengkulu (180,000Rp, 10 hours), portant finds, including a peripih (stone box)
Palembang (110,000Rp, six hours) and Padang containing sheets of gold inscribed with old
(180,000Rp, 13 hours). Javanese characters, dating the temple back to
Safa Marwa (%65756; Jl Pattimura 77) runs a the 9th century. A statue of Prajnyaparamita
similar service to Sungai Penuh in the Kerinci found here is now the star attraction at the
Valley (70,000Rp, 10 hours). small site museum nearby.
Buses from Jambi depart from the com­ Candi Tinggi, 200m southeast of Candi
panies’ offices. Gumpung, is the finest of the temples un­
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H S U MAT R A • • Pa l e m b a n g 463

covered so far. It dates from the 9th century production and cement manufacturing, which
but is built around another, older temple. A all scent the air with a distinctive odour you
path leads east from Candi Tinggi to Candi might first mistake as your own funk.
Astano, 1.5km away, passing Candi Kembar Batu Chances are you’re passing north or south
and lots of menapo along the way. if you’re here. While the city ain’t much to
The temples on the western side of the site look at, be sure to stick around for at least
are yet to be restored. They remain pretty a meal – the spicy fare is subject of much
much as they were found – minus the jungle, debate (positive and negative) in Sumatra,
which was cleared in the 1980s. The western and it’s worth establishing your own opinion
sites are signposted from Candi Gumpung. for gaining kudos on cuisine chat around the
First stop, after 900m, is Candi Gedong Satu, rest of the island.
followed 150m further on by Candi Gedong Dua.
They are independent temples despite what History
their names may suggest. The path continues A thousand years ago Palembang was the
west for another 1.5km to Candi Kedaton, the centre of the highly developed Sriwijaya civi­
largest of the temples, then a further 900m lisation. The Chinese scholar I Tsing spent six
northwest to Candi Koto Mahligai. months in Palembang in 672 and reported
The dwellings of the ordinary Malayu peo­ that 1000 monks, scholars and pilgrims were
ple have long since disappeared. According studying and translating Sanskrit there. At
to Chinese records, they lived along the river its peak in the 11th century, Sriwijaya ruled
in stilted houses or in raft huts moored to a huge slab of Southeast Asia, covering most
the bank. of Sumatra, the Malay Peninsula, southern
Thailand and Cambodia. Sriwijayan influ­
Getting There & Away ence collapsed after the kingdom was con­
There is no public transport to the park. You quered by the south Indian king Ravendra

SUMATRA
can charter a speedboat (300,000Rp) from Choladewa in 1025. For the next 200 years,
Jambi’s river pier to the site. You can also hire the void was partly filled by Sriwijaya’s main
an ojek (35,000Rp). regional rival, the Jambi-based kingdom of
Malayu.
SOUTH SUMATRA Few relics from this period remain – no
sculptures, monuments or architecture of
Like Riau and Jambi provinces, the eastern note – nor is there much of interest from the
portion of South Sumatra shares a common early 18th century, when Palembang was an
Malay ancestry and influence from its proxim­ Islamic kingdom. Most of the buildings of
ity to the shipping lane of the Strait of Melaka. the latter era were destroyed in battles with
Rivers define the character of the eastern low­ the Dutch.
lands, while the western high peaks of the The city’s name comes from two words:
Bukit Barisan form the province’s rugged un­ pa (place) and limbang (to pan for gold). The
derbelly. The provincial capital of Palembang prosperity of the Sriwijayan city is said to have
was once the central seat of the Buddhist been based on gold found in local rivers.
Sriwijaya empire, whose control once reached
all the way up the Malay Peninsula. Orientation
Despite the province’s illustrious past, there Palembang sits astride Sungai Musi, the two
aren’t very many surviving attractions, except halves of the city linked by the giant Jembatan
for the hospitality that occurs in places where Ampera (Ampera Bridge). The river is flanked
bilingual Indonesians don’t get a lot of op­ by a hodgepodge of wooden houses on stilts.
portunity to practise their English. The southern side, Seberang Ulu, is where
the majority of people live. Seberang Ilir, on
PALEMBANG the north bank, is the city’s better half, where
%0711 / pop 1.67 million you’ll find most of the government offices,
Sumatra’s second-largest city, Palembang is shops, hotels and the wealthy residential
a manic concrete sprawl with little to offer districts. The main street, Jl Sudirman, runs
anyone but the true urban enthusiast. north–south to the bridge. The bus terminal
The town prospers as a major port and on and train station are both on the southern
the core industries of oil refining, fertiliser side.
 464 S O U T H S U MAT R A • • Pa l e m b a n g lonelyplanet.com

0 500 m
PALEMBANG 0 0.3 miles

A B To Rumah Makan Sri C D

Melayu (3km); Museum
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Novotel Palembang an
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SUMATRA

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Jl Jl To Kertapati Train
INFORMATION Station (6km); Karyajaya
Bus Terminal (12km);
BCA Bank.....................................1 A1 Bandarlampung (200km)
BII Bank........................................2 A1
BRI Bank.......................................3 B1
Moneychanger............................4 C2
Palembang City Tourist Office..(see 11)
Post Office...................................5 A2 SLEEPING
Post Office...................................6 C3 Hotel Al Fath Melia....................12 C1 Night Market.............................19 D2
PT Novia Wisata..........................7 D2 Hotel Sandjaja.............................13 B1 Pagi Sore....................................20 C1
Telkom Wartel.............................8 C3 Hotel Sari....................................14 B1 Pondok Selera............................21 A3
5 Wartel.......................................(see 5) Hotel Swarna Dwipa..................15 A3 Selatan Indah.............................22 C2
Wisma Bari................................16 C2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SHOPPING
Dutch Fort...................................9 C3 EATING Pasar 16 Ilir................................23 D3
Mesjid Agung............................10 C3 Floating Restaurant....................17 D4
Museum Sultan Machmud French Bakery & Bistro...............18 C2 TRANSPORT
Badaruddin II..........................11 D3 Makan Sari Bundo...................(see 14) Bus Ticket Offices......................24 C2

Information Money changer (Jl Kol Atmo)

Palembang has branches of all the major Palembang city tourist office (%358 450; Museum
banks and there are ATMs all over the city. Sultan Machmud Badaruddin II, Jl Pasar Hilir 3) A useful
Outside banking hours, the bigger hotels are office at the Museum Sultan Machmud Badaruddin II, off
a better bet than money changers. Jl Sudirman; the staff can arrange trips down the Sungai
BCA Bank (Jl Kapitan Rivai) Musi and handicraft tours.
BII Bank (Jl Kapitan Rivai) Post office (Jl Merdeka) Close to the river, next to the
BRI Bank (Jl Kapitan Rivai) Garuda monument. Internet facilities available.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S O U T H S U MAT R A • • Pa l e m b a n g 465

Provincial tourist office (%357 348; Jl Demang

staircase winds round to the lobby, giving an
Lebar Daun) A useful office outside of the centre of town.
airy feel to the place. The staff were a delight
PT Novia Wisata (%512 584; Jl Jend A Yani 3) Agents
when we called round.
here can book city and river tours and trips to Bangka and
Hotel Sari (Jl Sudirman 1301; d 200,000-240,000Rp; a)
Danau Ranau, plus onward flights.
On a noisy junction, the ugly exterior hides
Telkom wartel (Jl Merdeka; h8am-9pm) Next to the
half-decent rooms.
post office; international phone calls can be made here.
Hotel Sandjaja (%362 222; [email protected];
Wartel (Jl Kapitan Rivai)
Jl Kaptain Rivai 6193; d incl breakfast from 355,000Rp;
aWs) This smart, upmarket hotel has
Sights rooms that match what you would get back
Museum Sumatera Selatan (%422 382; Jl Sriwijaya 1, home for the same price, plus a few more
Km 5.5; admission 1000Rp; h8am-4pm Sun-Thu, 8-11am fingerprints. But when measured on the
Fri) is well worth a visit. It houses finds from Sumatran scale, this is top-grade.
Sriwijayan times, as well as megalithic carv­ Hotel Swarna Dwipa (%313 322; Jl Tasik II; s/d incl
ings from the Pasemah Highlands, including breakfast 445,000/1,208,000Rp; aWs) Located
the famous batu gajah (elephant stone). There in a leafy area, this mini resort is filled with
is a magnificent rumah limas (traditional Indonesian bigwigs, but the rooms don’t quite
house) behind the museum. The museum is deliver.
about 5km from the town centre off the road Novotel Palembang Hotel & Residence (%369 777;
to the airport. [email protected]; Jl R Sukamto 8A; d with breakfast
Museum Sultan Machmud Badaruddin II (Jl Pasar 650,000-720,000Rp; aiWs) Outside of the
Hilir III; admission 1000Rp; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu & Sat, town centre, the Novotel is a stone-fortress
8-11am & 1.30-4pm Fri) has a few dust-covered resort with the town’s best rooms oriented
exhibits. around a central pool.
Other Palembang attractions include the Arya Duta Hotel & Convention Centre (%383

SUMATRA
imposing Mesjid Agung (Jl Sudirman), built by 838; [email protected]; Jl POM IX; d
Sultan Machmud Badaruddin at the begin­ with breakfast from 850,000Rp; aisW) The
ning of the 19th century. very modern Arya Duta is decorated in the
The remains of a late 18th–century Dutch reigning trend of global minimalist. Business
fort, occupied today by the Indonesian army, travellers stay here, self-contained style, for
can be seen to the north of Jl Merdeka. Only conferences.
sections of the fort’s outside walls still stand.
Eating
Festivals & Events Palembang fare takes a while to get used to. The
Palembang’s annual tourist event is the bidar area’s southern Indian influences are found
race held on Sungai Musi in the middle of in the spicy vegetable and fish dishes that are
town every 17 August (Independence Day) favoured. But it’s the heavy use of the funky
and on 16 June (the city’s birthday). A bidar durian that sends many Westerners running.
(canoe) is about 25m long, 1m wide and is The best-known dishes are ikan brengkes
powered by up to 60 rowers. (fish served with a spicy durian-based sauce)
and pindang, a spicy, clear fish soup. Another
Sleeping Palembang speciality is pempek, also known as
The midrange hotels in Palembang are typical empek-empek, a mixture of sago, fish and sea­
Indonesian breeds: personality-less multisto­ soning that is formed into balls and deep fried
rey boxes with prices that make a backpacker or grilled. Served with a spicy sauce, pempek is
wince. The upmarket business options are widely available from street stalls and warungs;
slowly but surely maturing to match interna­ you typically pay for what you eat.
tional standards. Palembang food is normally served with
Wisma Bari (%315 666; Jl Letnan Sayuti 55; d incl a range of accompaniments. The main one
breakfast 137,000-176,000Rp; a) Well positioned is tempoyak, a combination of fermented
in a quiet lane, the postmodern rooms are durian, terasi (shrimp paste), lime juice and
modest but tolerable. chilli that is mixed up with the fingers and
Hotel Al Fath Melia (%370 488; Jl KS Tuban 19; d incl added to the rice. Sambal buah (fruit sam­
breakfast 175,000-295,000Rp; a) The best you’ll get bals), made with pineapple or sliced green
for under $25. Set on a quiet street, a grand old mangoes, are also popular.
 466 S O U T H S U MAT R A • • Pa l e m b a n g lonelyplanet.com

Pondok Selera (Jl Rambutan; mains from 5000Rp) Garuda, Wings Air, Lion Air, Batavia Air
Near the Songket Village, this open-air lunch and Sriwijaya all fly to Jakarta.
spot pulls in the government workers for Merpati flies to Batam daily and then onto
Palembang style ayam baker (grilled chicken) Medan four times a week. Garuda, Wings,
served with fresh vegetables and sambal. Lion, Merpati, Jatayu and Batavia also have
Selatan Indah (Jl Letkol Iskandar 434; dishes from 6000Rp) flights to Medan. Batavia Air serves Jambi
A recommended joint for trying Palembang daily. Air Asia flies daily to and from Kuala
food where the English menu removes the Lumpur, Malaysia.
lottery factor found in other places. PT Novia Wisata (%512 584; Jl Jend A Yani 3) can
Floating Restaurant (Seberang Ulu; mains 5000­ handle all of these ticketing arrangements.
20,000Rp; hnoon-10pm) Directly across the Sungai
Musi from the museum is Palembang’s favour­ BOAT
ite date restaurant, serving local specialities. There are several services each day from
Rumah Makan Sri Melayu (%420 468; Jl Demang Palembang’s Boom Baru harbour to Mentok
Lebar Daun; mains 25,000-35,000Rp) For the full immer­ on Pulau Bangka (140,000Rp to 220,000Rp
sion of Palembang food and culture, visit this depending on class, four hours).
showpiece restaurant with polished wooden There are direct ferry services to Batam
seating around a stylish pond. (business/VIP 285,000/345,000Rp, 10 hours).
French Bakery & Bistro (Jl Kol Atmo; dishes 8000Rp) Boats depart from Boom Baru on Tuesday,
Near the bus ticket agents, this bakery and Thursday and Saturday at 7.30am.
cafe offers all sorts of carb-loaded dishes and
fancy coffee drinks. BUS
The main night market (Jl Sayangan), to the east The Karyajaya Bus Terminal (cnr Jl Sriwijaya Raya) is
of Jl Sudirman, has dozens of noodle and sate 12km from the town centre.
stalls. Missing Padang food already? Load up Most of the bigger companies have ticket
SUMATRA

at our old pals Pagi Sore (Jl Sudirman) and Makan offices on Jl Kol Atmo, just near the former
Sari Bundo (Jl Kaptain Rivai). Hotel King. These agents are convenient for
buying advance tickets and checking depar­
Shopping ture times, but it is recommended to catch the
Tanjung Tunpung, 2km from the town centre, bus at the terminal instead of dealing with the
is the handicraft village where Palembang’s extra transfer fee and extra wait time from the
local songket industry is based. Ground-floor agents’ offices.
showrooms display sarongs used in marriage Sample destinations and fares include
ceremonies and traditional costumes, as well Bukittinggi (air-con 165,000Rp, 18 hours),
as more functional scarves and textiles. Above Medan (260,000Rp, 36 hours) and Jakarta
the storefront are the workshops where it (air-con 190,000Rp, 20 hours).
takes the young weavers a month to weave There are several companies on Jl Veteran
one sarong and chest wrap, as well as keep that offer door-to-door minibus services to
up with the daily soap operas. Jambi (100,000Rp, six hours) and Bengkulu
Makmur Jaya (%355 3720; Jl Ki Gede Ing Suro 12) (140,000Rp, 15 hours).
Beyond tourist-market selections of fine silk
and batiks. TRAIN
Pasar 16 Ilir (Jl Mesjid Lama; h6am-6pm) Near the Kertapati train station is 8km from the city
river, just off Jl Pangeran Ratu, this market centre on the south side of the river. There are
sells batik and other textiles from Sumatra two daily train departures to Bandarlampung.
and Java, as well as house wares. The morning train has economy class only
(45,000Rp); the evening train has executive
Getting There & Away (95,000Rp) and business (65,000Rp) classes.
AIR The trip takes nine to 10 hours.
Sultan Badaruddin II airport is 12km north There are also two trains that go north­
of town. There are flights by Silk Air to west to Lubuklinggau (economy/business
Singapore three times a week (US$90 to 15,000/70,000Rp) with a stop at Lahat (for
US$110). Garuda flies daily from Palembang the Pasemah Highlands). It’s four hours to
to Yogyakarta (800,000Rp) and Surabaya Lahat and seven to Lubuklinggau, but the
(655,000Rp). fares are the same.
lonelyplanet.com S O U T H S U MAT R A • • D a n a u R a n a u 467

Getting Around up an opelet for the final 18km to Banding

Opelet around town cost a standard 2500Rp. Agung (4000Rp). It’s a good idea to arrive in
They leave from around the huge rounda­ Baturaja as early as possible to give yourself
bout at the junction of Jl Sudirman and Jl plenty of time to get a bus out again. If you
Merdeka. do get stuck, there are dozens of uninspiring
Any opelet marked ‘Karyajaya’ (4000Rp) budget losmen to choose from.
will get you to the bus terminal. Any opelet
marked ‘Kertapati’ (4000Rp) will get you to KRUI
the train station. %0728
Taxis to the airport cost 60,000Rp to If southern Sumatra ever makes an impression
80,000Rp. A taxi from the station to the town on the tourist trail, Krui will be the beach
centre should cost around 40,000Rp. bums’ hang-out. Sweeping slithers of white
sand lick the coast north and south of Krui,
DANAU RANAU which to-date has only been discovered by
Remote Danau Ranau, nestled in the middle intrepid surfers.
of the southwestern Bukit Barisan range, is You can stay at DWI Hotel (%51069; Jl Merdeka
one of the least accessible and least developed 172; d with fan 65,000Rp, d with air-con & breakfast 195,000Rp;
of Sumatra’s mountain lakes. It’s an extremely a) in the town centre. Hotel Mutiara Alam
peaceful spot and an excellent place to just (%51000; 3km south of Krui; d 80,000Rp) is an out-of­
relax or, if you’re feeling energetic, go hiking town possibility right on the beach.
in the surrounding mountains. It’s possible Backpackers might not pay much attention
to climb Gunung Seminung (1881m), the to Krui but surfers come for the unhindered
extinct volcano that dominates the region. swells that roar in off the ocean. Right in front
Temperatures at Ranau seldom rise above a of the Karang Nyimbor surf break is the scenic
comfortable 25°C. and homely Family Losmen (%081 3804 31486; 30min

SUMATRA
The main transport hub of the area is south of Krui; d 165,000Rp).
Simpang Sender, about 10km northwest of the There are daily buses to Krui from Bandar
lake. At the northern tip is Banding Agung, Lampung (50,000Rp, six hours) and Bengkulu
the main settlement. There is no bank, so (75,000Rp, eight hours). Opelet depart regu­
change money before you get there. larly for Liwa (20,000Rp, one hour) and from
There are several small hotels in Banding there to Simpang Sender (for Danau Ranau).
Agung, including Losmen Batu Mega (Jl Sugiwaras
269; d 80,000Rp) and Hotel Seminung Permai (Jl Akmal PASEMAH HIGHLANDS
89; d 90,000Rp). Jl Akmal is the main street lead­ The highlands, tucked away in the Bukit
ing down to the lake. Barisan west of Lahat, are famous for the
The village of Pusri also has accommoda­ mysterious megalithic monuments that dot
tion, including Danau Ranau Cottages and Wisma the landscape. The stones have been dated
Pusri (d 60,000-100,000Rp). back about 3000 years, but little else is known
South of Simpang Sender on the western about them or the civilisation that carved
shore is Wisma Danau Ranau (d 150,000-200,000Rp), an them. While the museums of Palembang and
upmarket place popular with tour groups. Jakarta now house the pick of the stones, there
Padang food is about all you’ll find in the are still plenty left in situ.
restaurants. The main town of the highlands is Pagaralam,
68km (two hours by bus) southwest of the
Getting There & Away Trans-Sumatran Hwy town of Lahat.
Most routes to Danau Ranau go through the The best source of information about the
Trans-Sumatran Hwy town of Baturaja. There highlands is the Hotel Mirasa in Pagaralam.
are two buses a day to Baturaja from the main There’s nowhere to change money, so bring
bus terminal in Palembang (20,000Rp, four enough rupiah to see you through.
hours). The Palembang–Bandarlampung train
line stops at Baturaja, which is about 3½ hours Sights & Activities
south of Palembang. The Pasemah carvings are considered to be the
There are regular buses for the remain­ best examples of prehistoric stone sculpture in
ing 120km from Baturaja to Simpang Sender Indonesia and fall into two distinct styles. The
(15,000Rp, three hours), where you can pick early style dates from almost 3000 years ago
 468 S O U T H S U MAT R A • • Pu l a u B a n g k a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

and features fairly crude figures squatting with If you get stuck in Lahat, there is Hotel
hands on knees or arms folded over chests. Permata (%073 132 1642; Jl Mayor Ruslam III 31; r fan/
The best examples of this type are at a site air-con 60,000/100,000Rp; a), conveniently close to
called Tinggi Hari, 20km from Lahat, west of both the bus terminal and the train station.
the small river town of Pulau Pinang.
The later style, incorporating expressive Getting There & Around
facial features, dates from about 2000 years Every bus travelling along the Trans-
ago and is far more elaborate. Examples in­ Sumatran Hwy calls in at Lahat, nine hours
clude carvings of men riding, battling with northwest of Bandarlampung and 12 hours
snakes and struggling with elephants. There southeast of Padang. There are regular buses
are also a couple of tigers – one guarding a to Lahat from Palembang (55,000Rp, five
representation of a human head between its hours), and the town is a stop on the train
paws. The natural curve of the rocks was used line from Palembang to Lubuklinggau. There
to create a three-dimensional effect, though are frequent small buses between Lahat and
all the sculptures are in bas-relief. Pagaralam (20,000Rp, two hours).
Sculptures of this style are found throughout There are opelet to the villages near
the villages around Pagaralam, although some Pagaralam from the town centre’s stasiun taksi
take a bit of seeking out. Tegurwangi, about 8km (taxi station). All local services cost 2000Rp.
from Pagaralam on the road to Tanjung Sakti,
is the home of the famous Batu Beribu, a cluster PULAU BANGKA
of four squat statues that sit under a small shel­ %0717 / pop 790,000
ter by a stream. The site guardian will wander Bangka is a large, sparsely populated island
over and lead you to some nearby dolmen-style 25km off Sumatra’s east coast. Bangka has
stone tombs. You can still make out a painting several white-sand beaches and a peaceful
of three women and a dragon in one of them. way of life, but little in the way of alluring ac­
SUMATRA

The village of Berlubai, 3km from Pagaralam, commodation. Resort hotels were originally
has its own Batu Gajah (Elephant Stone) sitting designed for wealthy visitors from Singapore
out among the rice paddies, as well as tombs and Malaysia, but they, like everyone else,
and statues. There is a remarkable collection have been spooked by security in Indonesia.
of stone carvings among the paddies near The island’s name is derived from the word
Tanjung Aru. Look out for the one of a man wangka (tin), which was discovered near
fighting a giant serpent. Mentok in 1710. Tin is still mined on the is­
land, although operations have been greatly
GUNUNG DEMPO scaled down in recent years.
This dormant volcano is the highest (3159m) of There are only small pockets of natural
the peaks surrounding the Pasemah Highlands forest left on Bangka with a large part of the
and dominates the town of Pagaralam. Allow land cleared for rubber, palm-oil and pepper
two full days to complete the climb. A guide plantations.
is strongly recommended as trails can be dif­
ficult to find. The lower slopes are used as a Pangkal Pinang
tea-growing area, and there are opelet from Bangka’s main town is Pangkal Pinang, a
Pagaralam to the tea factory. bustling business and transport centre with a
population of about 140,000 people.
Sleeping Most places of importance to travellers are
The best place to stay in the highlands is close to the intersection of the main streets,
Pagaralam. Jl Sudirman and Jl Mesjid Jamik. The bus
Hotel Mirasa (%073 062 1484; Jl Mayor Ruslan; d with/ terminal and markets are nearby on Jl N
without breakfast 175,000/65,000Rp) There is a range of Pegadaian.
rooms to choose from and the owner can or­
ganise transport to the sites or guides to climb SLEEPING
Gunung Dempo. The hotel is on the edge of There are quite a few cheap losmen around
town, about 2km from the bus terminal. the centre of town.
Hotel Telaga (%073 062 1081; Jl Serma Wanar; d from Penginapan Srikandi (%421 884; Jl Mesjid Jamik 42;
40,000-100,000Rp) A basic place with simple but r with shared bath 70,000-80,000Rp) Simple and clean,
clean rooms and very little else. and, best of all, cheap.
lonelyplanet.com L A M P U N G • • H i s t o r y 469

Bukit Shofa Hotel (%421 062; Jl Mesjid Jamik 43; d running in the mid-afternoon. After that taxis
100,000-150,000Rp; a) A large, modern place with are the only option.
a choice of decent rooms. Airport taxis charge 50,000Rp for the 7km
Sabrina Hotel (%422 424; Jl Diponegoro 73; d incl run into Pangkal Pinang.
breakfast 175,000-400,000Rp; a) A midrange place There are public buses from Mentok to
with comfortable rooms on a quiet side street Pangkal Pinang (15,000Rp, three hours) and
off Jl Sudirman. Sungailiat (20,000Rp, 3½ hours).

EATING
There are lots of small restaurants in Pangkal
Pinang, including plenty of places along Jl
LAMPUNG
Sudirman and in the markets near the main At the very tip of this bow-shaped landmass is
junction. Sumatra’s southernmost province, which was
Restaurant Asui Seafood (Jl Kampung Bintang; seafood not given provincial status by Jakarta until
from 20,000Rp) Behind the BCA bank, this is the 1964. Although the Lampungese have had
place to go for seafood. Gebung, known locally a long history as a distinct culture, the most
as ‘chicken fish’ because of the firmness of its recent tug of Jakarta’s gravitational force is
flesh, is worth trying. altering Lampung’s independent streak. Big-
city TV news and fashions have crept across
Mentok the Sunda Strait, as did Javanese settlers under
Mentok, on the northwestern tip of the island, the transmigrasi policies, designed to off-load
is the port for boats to/from Palembang. Most excess population and turn a profit in the
people hop on a bus directly from the port to wilds of Sumatra.
Pangkal Pinang. Outside the provincial capital of
In Mentok, there is little of interest other Bandarlampung, the province’s robust cof­

SUMATRA
than a memorial to 22 Australian nurses shot fee plantations dominate the economy and the
dead by the Japanese during WWII. unclaimed forests, closely followed by timber
If you get stuck, try Tin Palace Hotel (Jl Major and pepper. There are also large areas of rub­
Syafrie Rahman 1; s/d 70,000/90,000Rp; a). ber and palm-oil plantation.
Today many Jakarta weekenders hop over
Beaches to tour the Krakatau volcano (p474) or visit
The best beaches are on the northeastern coast the elephants of Way Kambas National Park
around the town of Sungailiat, the island’s (p472). The rugged western seaboard is osten­
administrative centre. sibly protected as the Bukit Barisan Selatan
Pantai Parai Tenggiri is one of the most National Park.
popular and is monopolised by the Parai
Beach Hotel (%94888; Jl Pantai Matras; d incl break­ History
fast weekday/weekend 484,000/574,750Rp; a). The Long before Jakarta became the helm of this
deserted Pantai Matras, 5km further on, is island chain, there’s evidence that Lampung
even better. was part of the Palembang-based Sriwijayan
empire until the 11th century, when the
Getting There & Away Jambi-based Malayu kingdom became the
Merpati flies three times a week to Jakarta dominant regional power.
(350,000Rp). Megalithic remains at Pugungraharjo, on
There are several services each day from the plains to the east of Bandarlampung, are
Palembang’s Boom Baru jetty to Mentok on thought to date back more than 1000 years
Bangka (100,000Rp to 200,000Rp depending and point to a combination of Hindu and
on class, four hours). Buddhist influences. The site is believed to
Pelni ships stop in at Mentok travelling to have been occupied until the 16th century.
Bintan. The Pelni office (%22743) is outside the Lampung has long been famous for its
port gates in Mentok. prized pepper crop, attracting the West
Javanese sultanate of Banten to the area at
Getting Around the beginning of the 16th century and the
There is regular public transport between Dutch East India Company in the late 17th
Bangka’s main towns, but most opelet stop century.
 470 L A M P U N G • • B a n d a r l a m p u n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

The Dutch finally took control of Lampung Telkom wartel (Jl Majapahit; h24hr) International
in 1856 and launched the first of the trans- and home-country-direct calls can be made here.
migrasi schemes that sought to ease the
chronic overcrowding in Java and Bali. Most Sights
migrants came to farm the fertile plains of The Krakatau monument (Jl Verteran, Telukbetung) is a
eastern Lampung and today the area is some­ lasting memorial to the force of the 1883 erup­
thing of a cultural melting pot. tion and resulting tidal wave. Almost half of
the 36,000 victims died in the 40m-high tidal
BANDARLAMPUNG wave that funnelled up Teluk Lampung and
%0721 / pop 850,000 devastated Telukbetung. The huge steel mari­
Once a major backpacker thoroughfare con­ time buoy that comprises the monument was
necting Java and Sumatra, you’ll immediately washed out of Teluk Lampung and deposited
notice the jump in ‘Hello Misters’ and toothy on this hillside.
smiles as the locals welcome Western faces Lampung Provincial Museum (Jl Teuku Umar;
like a long lost relative – which, of course, h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun), 5km north of central
passing travellers are in these parts. Tanjungkarang, houses a dusty collection of
Perched on the hills overlooking Teluk bits and pieces – everything from Neolithic
Lampung, Bandarlampung is the region’s relics to stuffed animals. To reach the mu­
largest city and its administrative capital. seum, catch a grey opelet (2500Rp).
The fourth-largest city in Sumatra, it is the
product of an amalgamation of the old towns Sleeping
of Telukbetung (coastal) and Tanjungkarang Bandarlampung has a nice selection of mid­
(inland). range hotels that line Jl Raden Intan, within
Krakatau and Way Kambis are the main walking distance or a short ojek ride from the
spots to check out in the area when passing train station.
SUMATRA

through. Kurnia Perdana Hotel (%262 030; Jl Raden Intan

114; d incl breakfast 150,000-250,000Rp; aW) Clean,
Orientation comfortable rooms with TV, but no charm.
Bandarlampung is something of an ad­ Hotel Arinas (%266 778; Jl Raden Intan 35; d incl
ministrative creation and the now massive, breakfast from 215,000-500,000Rp; a) Central with
sprawling city has no real heart. Most places of clean, comfortable, modern rooms, all with
relevance to travellers are in Tanjungkarang, TV and hot water.
including the train station and the bulk of the Hotel Purnama (%261 448; Jl Raden Intan 77; d
hotels. The Rajabasa bus terminal is 10km incl breakfast 230,000-630,000Rp; aW) The best
north of the town centre; the airport is 24km option in this price range. It is well man­
away. aged and maintained, with big comfortable
rooms.
Information Marco Polo Hotel (%262 511; Jl Dr Susilo 4; d incl
All the major banks have branches in breakfast 386,000-735,000Rp; aWs) Character
Bandarlampung, and there are ATMs all is a permanent guest at this atmospheric old
over town. gent. Rooms are spacious and many have
Arie Tour & Travel (%474 675; Jl Monginsidi 143) A
views of Teluk Lampung.
helpful travel agent located outside the city centre.
Indra Puri Hotel (%258 258; Jl W Monginsidi 70; d
BCA Bank (Jl Raden Intan 98) Offers the best exchange
incl breakfast 390,000-1,120,000Rp; W) Perched high
rates; a second branch is located on Jl Kartini.
on a hill, the Indra Puri has beautiful rooms
BII Bank (Jl Kartini)
with excellent views of the bay.
BNI Bank (Jl Kartini)
Sheraton Lampung (%486 666; Jl W Monginsidi 175;
Lippo Bank (Jl Kartini)
d incl breakfast 810,000-935,000Rp; aWs) An im­
Post office Main office (Jl KH Dahlan); central branch (Jl
pressive place; the Sheraton is the most stylish
Kotaraja)
hotel in town and offers a range of sporting
Provincial tourist office (%266 184; Jl Sudirman 29)
activities onsite.
A helpful centre centrally located.

Rumah Sakit Bumi Waras (Jl W Monginsidi) Hospital.

Eating
Squid Net (Jl Raden Intan 88a; per hr 5000Rp; h10am­ The market stalls around the Bambu Kuning
8pm) Internet access.
Plaza offer a wide range of snacks.
lonelyplanet.com L A M P U N G • • B a n d a r l a m p u n g 471

0 500 m
BANDARLAMPUNG 0 0.3 miles

A B C D
To Lampung Provincial Museum
Jl I

i
(5km); Rajabasa Bus Terminal (10km);
m

rtin
INFORMATION
am
Airport (24km); Way Kambas

a
Arie Tour & Travel............................. 1 A4
Bo

Jl K
National Park (110km)
njo

4 22 BCA Bank............................................2 B1
l
Train Station
1 Bambu 16 Jl Kotaraja BCA Bank............................................3 B1
Kuning 5 Bandar BII Bank............................................(see 2)
Plaza 2 Lampung BNI Bank.............................................4 B1
Plaza
18 Krakatau Lampung Wisata.............(see 15)
Jl Pangkal Pinang Lippo Bank.......................................(see 2)
lim 17 Post Office..........................................5 B1
Jl Agus Sa 3 Provincial Tourist Office......................6 B3
10
Jl Kat
amso Rumah Sakit Bumi Waras...................7 A3
Squid Net...........................................8 B2
Telkom Wartel....................................9 B2
i
artin

ean
Jl K

SLEEPING
end

Tanjungkarang Hotel Arinas......................................10 B1

Jl T

Gramedia Hotel Purnama.................................11 B2

2 Bookstore
Jl K Indra Puri Hotel................................12 A3
Jl Tulang .H
Bawang Ma Kurnia Perdana Hotel........................13 B2
8 Plaza sM
Millenium an Marco Polo Hotel.............................14 B4
syu
13 11 r Sheraton Lampung...........................15 A4
Jl Sriwijaya
Jl Raden Intan

Jl Maj apahit

Jl S Parman
Plaza EATING
Tanjung 9 Begadang I.......................................16 A1
Karang Jl Ah European Bakery & Restaurant..........17 B1
mad
Yani 6 Market Stalls.....................................18 A1

Jl
P er
Pondok Iviet Grill & Barbeque..........19 A3

in
Jl Sudirman

tis
Pondok Santap Dwipa Raya.............20 D4

Ke
Sari Bundo.....................................(see 16)

m
er
de
Jl Thamrin

ka
21 SHOPPING
3

an
7 Mulya Sari Artshop...........................21 A3
19 Jl Nusa Ind
ah

SUMATRA
12 TRANSPORT
Jl D

Damri Office.....................................22 B1
ipo
ne

Jl KH Dahlan
go
Jl W

ro

Jl Gatot Subroto

Jl Ra
Mo

sun Jl Dr Susilo
a Sa
ngin

id 14
sidi

4
Jl Cut
Mutia
1 h
Jl D
ipo

To Main Post Office (600m);

20
ne

Panjung Bus Terminal (6km);

To Krakatau
go

Kalianda (60km);
Monument (750m)
ro

15 Bakauheni (90km)

Pondok Santap Dwipa Raya (Jl Gatot Subroto; dishes reds and blues to create primitive-looking
from 15,000Rp) An upmarket Palembang-style geometric designs. Another type is kain tapis,
place. It serves a delicious sayur asam (sour a ceremonial cloth elaborately embroidered
vegetable soup). with gold thread.
Pondok Iviet Grill & Barbeque (Jl W Monginsidi 64; Mulya Sari Artshop (Jl Thamrin 85) A good col­
steaks from 15,000Rp) A meat lover’s paradise, with lection of both ship cloths and kain tapis can
lots of steaks and grills to choose from. be found here.
European Bakery & Restaurant (Jl Raden Intan 35;
pastries 2500Rp) For those in need of a sugar fix. Getting There & Away
Begadang I (one of four in town) and Sari AIR
Bundo (dishes 6000Rp) are a couple of popular The airport is 24km north of the city. There are
Padang restaurants near the markets on Jl flights every day to Jakarta through Merpati,
Imam Bonjol. Sriwijaya and Riau Air. Riau also flies to
Palembang twice a week. Do note that Merpati
Shopping flies to Halim Perdanakusuma Airport not
Lampung produces weavings known as ship Soekarno-Hatta airport. Arie Tour & Travel
cloths (most feature ships), which use rich (see opposite) is a helpful travel agent.
 472 L A M P U N G • • W a y K a m b a s N a t i o n a l Pa r k lonelyplanet.com

BUS It is believed that close to 200 wild Sumatran

There are two bus terminals in Bandarlampung. elephants (Elephas maximus sumatrensis) live
The city’s sprawling Rajabasa bus terminal in the park, but reliable estimates are uncer­
is 10km north of town and serves long-dis­ tain and poaching and development pres­
tance destinations. Panjang bus terminal is sures are constant. The Sumatran elephant is a
6km southeast of town along the Lampung subspecies of the Asian elephant and is found
Bay road and serves local and provincial only in Sumatra and Kalimantan. Another
destinations. rare but endemic creature in Way Kambas
From Rajabasa, buses run to Palembang is the Sumatran rhino, the only two-horned
(90,000Rp, 10 hours) and Bengkulu rhino of the Asian species. Its hide is red in
(120,000Rp, 16 hours), but most people head­ colour with a hairy coat.
ing north go to Bukittinggi (economy/air-con The area around Way Kanan, a subdis­
190,000/300,000Rp, 22 hours). trict of the park, is frequently visited by bird­
You’ve got several bus options for getting watchers. Of the most remarkable species,
to the Bakauheni pier, from which boats go to white-winged duck and Storm’s stork get the
Java. If travelling from central Bandarlampung, binoculars fogged up.
the most convenient option is the Damri bus– For some time an elephant training centre
boat combination ticket (business/executive operated in the park and served as a major
110,000/130,000Rp, eight to 10 hours). Damri tourism draw. The centre was created to re­
buses leave from Bandarlampung’s train sta­ habilitate wild elephants that were threatening
tion at 9am and 9pm, shuttling passengers to farmer’s crops. It was hoped that training the
the Bakahueni pier, and then picking them elephants for jobs in the logging or tourism
up at Java’s Merak pier for the final transfer industry would resolve the conflicts created
to Jakarta’s train station. Damri’s office is in by diminishing wild lands. But the elephants,
front of Bandarlampung’s train station. like many of the island’s human population,
SUMATRA

For other options, see the Bakauheni sec­ had a hard time finding work and caring for a
tion (p474). large population of animals proved too costly
after the monetary crisis. As a result many of
TRAIN the elephants have been moved elsewhere and
The train station is in the town centre at the the ones who remain are used to carry tourists
northern mouth of Jl Raden Intan. Sumatra’s on jungle treks.
only convenient rail service connects Also operating in the park is the Sumatra
Bandarlampung with Palembang (economy/ Rhino Sanctuary, where four rhinos formerly
business 45,000/65,000, 10 hours) and then held in captivity are introduced to wild sur­
beyond to Lubuklinggau (economy/business roundings in the hope of successful breed­
50,000/70,000Rp, 14 hours). ing. The Sumatran rhino is a solitary animal
and its habitat in the wild is so fractured that
Getting Around conservationists fear the species will die out
For the airport, taxis charge 80,000Rp to without intervention. Breeding centres for
100,000Rp for the ride to/from town. rhinos are a controversial component of
All opelet pass through the basement of the species-protection campaigns as they are ex­
Bandar Lampung Plaza on Jl Raden Intan and pensive to maintain and have reported few
the standard fare around town is 2000Rp. successful births. For more information, visit
To reach the Rajabasa bus terminal, take a the website of the International Rhino Foundation
green opelet (2500Rp). To reach the Panjang (www.rhinos-irf.org), one of the lead organisations
bus terminal, take a green opelet to Sukaraja involved with the centre and antipoaching
and then transfer to a red opelet (2500Rp). patrols in the park.
For the average visitor not engaged in wild­
WAY KAMBAS NATIONAL PARK life conservation, a visit to the park is a nice
This national park is one of the oldest reserves break from the concrete confines of Jakarta,
in Indonesia. It occupies 1300 sq km of coastal but it’s not a true wild safari. Most visitors are
lowland forest around Sungai Way Kambas on led through the forest on elephants or by ca­
the east coast of Lampung. What little remains noes on the Sungai Way Kanan and surround­
of the heavily logged forests is home to endan­ ing waterways. The most commonly spotted
gered species of elephants, rhinos and tigers. animals on the tour include primates and
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels L A M P U N G • • K a l i a n d a 473

birds. Herds of elephants are seen here from Sights & Activities
time to time but sightings of the Sumatran Overlooking the town is Gunung Rajabasa
tiger are extremely rare. (1281m), an easily scaleable volcano.
A day trip to Way Kambas costs around Afterwards you can soak in the hot springs at
US$50 per person for a minimum of two peo­ Wartawan Beach, just beyond Canti. Beaches
ple and can be arranged through tour opera­ around Canti have relaxing sea breezes. An
tors in Jakarta. Bandarlampung-based tour opelet to the beach costs 6000Rp.
agents include Arie Tour & Travel (p470) Situated off the coast, Pulau Sebuku and
and Krakatau Lampung Wisata (%263 625, 486 666; Pulau Sebesi have snorkelling and swimming.
Sheraton Lampung). Cargo boats leave from Canti to these is­
You could visit the park independently, lands, or you can charter a tour from the
but transport is limited and expensive. To local fisherfolk.
strike out on your own, hire an ojek from To reach Krakatau, stop in at Hotel Beringin
Rajabasalama to Way Kanan, where you can and ask about organised tours, or head down
hire a guide (50,000Rp to 100,000Rp) and to the Canti harbour on weekends to pair up
arrange transport. with local groups chartering boats.

Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating

Tourist facilities within the park are limited. Hotel Beringin (%322 008; Jl Kesuma Bangsa 75; d incl
About 13km from the entrance to the park breakfast 55,000-75,000Rp) Close to the centre of
is Way Kanan, where there is a collection of town, this is an old Dutch villa with high ceil­
simple guest houses (100,000Rp) on the banks ings and languid fans. The hotel has lots of
of Sungai Way Kanan. Food stalls nearby information about local attractions and can
cater for day trippers and close after dark, arrange trips to nearby attractions.
so you’ll need to bring food if you’re staying Kalianda Hotel (%322 392; d with fan/air-con

SUMATRA
the night. 69,000/198,000Rp; a) On the way into town
from the highway, this is a more upmarket
Getting There & Away choice.
The entrance to Way Kambas is 110km from Laguna Helau (%081 172 7638; Jl Sinar Laut 81,
Bandarlampung. Ketang; cottages from 250,000-700,000Rp) Just outside
There are buses from Bandarlampung’s town, this ocean-side resort has cottages in­
Rajabasa bus terminal to Jepara (25,000Rp, spired by stilt-frame fishing villages nestled
2½ hours). They pass the entrance to Way between a private beach and palm-fringed
Kambas, an arched gateway guarded by a lagoon. Larger bungalows have four bedrooms
stone elephant, in the village of Rajabasalama, and kitchen facilities.
10km north of Jepara. Alternatively, you can The food stalls that appear in Kalianda’s
catch a bus to Metro (10,000Rp, one hour) town centre at night are the best places to
and then another to Rajabasalama (15,000Rp, eat.
1½ hours).
From the park entrance, you can also hire Getting There & Around
a motorcycle to take you into the park and to There are regular buses between Kalianda
pick you up. and Bandarlampung’s Rajabasa bus termi­
nal (20,000Rp, 1½ hours). Most buses don’t
KALIANDA run right into Kalianda, but drop you on the
%0727 highway at the turn-off to town. From there,
Kalianda is a quiet little town overlook­ simply cross the road and wait for an opelet
ing Teluk Lampung 30km north of the into town (3000Rp). There are a few direct
Bakauheni ferry terminal. The main reason buses from the Bakauheni ferry terminal to
for passing through is to visit Krakatau, but Kalianda (20,000Rp), but it’s usually quicker
the town can also be used as an alternative to catch any north-bound bus and get off at
base to Bandarlampung. Nearby are pretty the junction for town.
white-sand beaches and simple fishing There are regular opelet from Kalianda
villages. Jakarta weekend refugees fed up to Canti (5000Rp) and along the road that
with Bali have begun small migrations to rings Gunung Rajabasa via Gayam and
Kalianda. Pasuruan.
 © Lonely Planet
474 L A M P U N G • • G u n u n g K r a k a t a u lonelyplanet.com

There are also cargo boats from Canti to the major towns on either side. Bakauheni is
nearby Sebuku and Sebesi (15,000Rp). Canti 90km from Bandarlampung, a bus journey of
can be reached by public bus. about two hours. Buses to the port leave from
the Bandarlampung town centre (see p472) or
GUNUNG KRAKATAU from the Panjang bus terminal (20,000Rp).
Krakatau may have come closer to destroy­ A taxi to Bakauheni from Bandarlampung
ing the planet than any other volcano in re­ should cost 30,000Rp. In Java, the bus trans­
cent history, when it erupted in 1883. Tens of fer from the port of Merak to Jakarta is an­
thousands were killed either by the resulting other two-hour journey; see p115 for more
tidal wave or by the pyroclastic flows that information.
crossed 40km of ocean to incinerate Sumatran
coastal villages. Afterwards all that was left BUKIT BARISAN SELATAN
was a smouldering caldera where a cluster of NATIONAL PARK
uninhabited islands had once been. Perhaps At the southern tip of Sumatra, this national
peace had come, thought local villagers. But park comprises one of the island’s last stands
Krakatau, like all scrappy villains, re-awoke of lowland forests. For this reason the World
in 1927 and resulting eruptions built a new Wildlife Fund has ranked it as one of the plan­
volcanic cone since christened Anak Krakatau et’s most biologically outstanding habitats and
(Child of Krakatau). is working to conserve the park’s remaining
Tours to the island launch from West Sumatran rhinos and tigers. The park is also
Java (see p123) or from Kalianda (p473) on famous for many endemic bird species that
the Sumatran coast. Organised tours typi­ prefer foothill climates, and several species
cally cost US$90 per person. Hotel Beringin of sea turtle that nest along the park’s coastal
(p473) in Kalianda can also organise tours zone.
for 650,000Rp. Of the 365,000 hectares originally desig­
SUMATRA

You can also join up with weekenders nated as protected, only 324,000 hectares
chartering boats from Canti, a fishing vil­ remain untampered. The usual suspects are
lage outside of Kalianda, or from Pulau responsible: illegal logging and plantation
Sebesi. Charters usually cost 500,000Rp to conversion, and poachers are also at work.
1,000,000Rp for 15 people. Tourist infrastructure in the park is limited
and most people visit on organised tours. The
BAKAUHENI easiest access point into the park is through
Bakauheni is the major ferry terminal between the town of Kota Agung, 80km west of
Java and southern Sumatra. Bandarlampung.
There are frequent ferries between Kantor Taman Nasional Bukit Barisan Selatan
Bakauheni and Merak, Java’s westernmost (%072 221 095; Jl Raya Terbaya, Kota Agung; h8am­
port. A fast ferry runs between the two ports 4.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-noon Fri) sells permits into
every 30 minutes from 7am to 5pm and the park (5000Rp) and can arrange guides
costs 42,000Rp; the crossing takes 45 min­ and trekking information.
utes. A slow ferry runs every 30 minutes, Less-accessible access points are Sukaraja,
24 hours a day and costs economy/business 20km west of Kota Agung, and Liwa, the
15,000/18,000Rp; the crossing takes three northernmost entry way.
hours. Kota Agung has several basic hotels and
The journey between the two islands there is a camping ground near Sukaraja.
sounds like a snap until you factor in land There are frequent buses from Banda­
transport between the ferry terminals and rlampung to Kota Agung (10,000Rp).

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