Marker

Definition of Marker:
A marker is commonly done by large thin paper that holds all the size
of pattern pieces for a specific style of garments. Marker is the perfect way
to reduce fabric wastage. Marker gives actual guide line for completing the
flawless or correct fabric cutting. Marker making can be done in both ways
like manually and computerized method.

Marker width is greater than or equal to the fabric width. Marker length is
mainly depends on the number of patterns of the particular style of
garments used for marker making. 
 

Fig: Marker making with manual and computerized method

From this article you will get the detail information about the following topic
like, what is marker? Types of marker in the garments industry, marker
making, objectives of marker making, different methods and techniques of
marker making, manual marker making method, computerized marker
making method in the apparel industry.

Marker length depends on some other factors. These are:

1. No. of garments produced by a lay of a spread.
2. Length of the cutting table.
 3. Production planning.
Garment marker making:
During garments manufacturing process, marker making is the most useful
process to draw the pattern pieces over a thin marker paper and this
marker paper is placed on the fabric lay for minimizing the fabric wastage.

Objectives of marker making:

There are different objectives of marker making. They are

 By the help of marker making similar size and styles of apparels are
gained.
 For bulk production marker is essential.
 Marker making is the guide of fabric cutting.
 It helps to minimize the fabric wastages.
 It save the production time and cost
Methods of marker making in the garment
industry:
Marker making is a pre-preparation of fabric cutting during huge amount
of garments production. In the marker making, different pattern parts are
drawn on a big thin paper and to considering fabric width, garments size
ration, fabric fault and cutting table width, length marker efficiency is
depending on.

There are two methods usually used for marker making in the apparel
industry. They are

1. Manual method
2. Computerized method.
1. Manual marker making method:
In garments industry, manual market making is the oldest, traditional and
typically used method. In this processes pattern maker make the all pattern
pieces manually and after that fabrics are spread on cutting table and set
up all pattern pieces directly onto the marker paper. Then mark by chalk,
pencil or pen.
 Fig: Manual marker making
Types of manual marker making method:
Manual methods are two types. Such as:

    i. Marker planning with full size pattern

    ii. Marker with minimized pattern 

i. Marker planning with full size pattern:

 According to standard measurement all patterns are in full

dimension.
 To minimize the fabric wastage, hard patterns are placed on thin
marker paper and then all patterns are marked by turning different
direction.
 The top of the table on which marker making are fixed or fitting and
the fitting table top are placed in various angle.
 For fabric suction vacuum system is arranged under the table.
 For minimize the marker length this method is perfect.
ii. Marker with minimized pattern:

 Normally the patterns are made up of hard paper or plastic sheet.

 For this method full size patterns are minimized 1/5 part by a panto-
graph.
 Marker is planned with small pattern pieces.
 When marker making is done, snaps are taken by camera.
 Planimeter is applied to examine covered area of pattern lies in the
marker.
 The marker efficiency is examined by marker area and pattern
area.
 All of the marker photograph and minimized pattern are carefully
stored.
 
Manual marker planning:
 
1. Carbon duplicating – This method is utilized when very few numbers of
copies are needed. Double-sided carbon paper or special NCR-type (no
carbon required) paper can be used for duplicating the master marker. In
this method, only six to eight copies of master marker can be made without
much deterioration in the line.

2. Spirit duplicating – In this system of duplicating, a special hectograph

sheet is placed underneath the marker. The hectograph paper transfers a
blue line on the back side of the master marker as it is drawn. A master
marker is then utilized to produce multiple copies one at a time in a
duplicating machine where the master marker along with the white paper
wetted in alcohol is moved through the rollers which transfer the line onto
the copy.

3. Diazo photographic method – This technique can be used to make

copies as required, one at a time. Here, both the light-sensitive paper and a
marker are passed through a UV light source, where the light-sensitive
paper can be developed by ammonia vapor, which produces a copy.
 
Advantage of manual method:

 It is suitable for small production

 Investment cost is low.
 
Disadvantage of manual method:

 More time is required

 High labor cost
2. Computerized marker making method:
Computerized method is the best and most popular method of marker
making. Generally it gives higher efficiency. During this marker making
method every specific style and part of the patterns are kept in the
computer memory and grade rule is also mentioned. To do this marker
making, computerized marker paper directly placed on fabric layer. Then
the computer makes the marker by its programming techniques. Computer
Aided Design (CAD) system are used to make marker. Comparison
between manual and CAD marker making is huge.
For completing the computerized marker making, pattern information’s can
be stored by different manners. Such as:

   a. Digitizing system
   b. Scanning system

a. Digitizing system:

 Patterns are placed in computer by using the digitizing board to run

this process.
 Every component is send to the computer memory by clicking
special mouse around the pieces.
b. Scanning system:
This is special kind of photocopier machine. Two things are done here.
They are:

 Production or Working patterns are set up on the scanning glass

and then marker is made in a selected size.
 For making other size grade rule is used.
 Fig: CAD system use to make marker
Types of computerized marker making method:
Computerized marker making method is mainly two types. Such as:

    i. Automatic marker making

    ii. Interactive marker making 

i. Automatic marker making:

 To do this automatic marker making method, computer can make

marker itself according to given commands.
 From this method most efficient marker can be got.
 Computer makes marker with the help of permutation and
combination but it required more time.
ii. Interactive marker making:

 Interactive marker making is a very common process.

 Computer operator takes a marker plan by interacting directly with
the system through a computer screen.
 Every pattern pieces are shown in a miniature of the screen.
 Operators are transferring patterns information by the use of pen
drive or tablet.
Advantage of computerized marker making:

 Perfect method for large scale production

 Marker efficiency is high
 Low fabric wastage
 If you want to get marker print out then it possible.
 pattern grading could be done automatically
  Low time consumption
 This method help to prepare marker quickly
Disadvantage of computerized marker making:

 High investment cost

 Required skilled operator 
Marker Planning:
Marker making is the process of finding out the most proficient
arrangement of pattern pieces for a particular garment style, fabric and
range of sizes. This process requires skill, time and concentration to get the
maximum efficiency. The process of marker making can be explained in
two aspects:
1. Marker planning: It is the placement of patterns in a paper to meet
the technical requirements as well to minimize wastage of fabric.
2. Marker production/marker utilization: This involves drawing of a
marker plan directly on fabric or creating it on a paper marker, or
copying information related to the pattern piece on the fabric without
drawing any pattern lines over it as in computerized cutting.
Requirements of marker planning:
Marker planning is more of a creative, intuitive and conceptualizing process
rather than a technical one and there is no final result for a marker
planning. The main purpose is to produce a shortest marker by considering
all the practical and technical constraints. The constraints in making a
shortest marker are related to
 Fabric characteristics and the design requirement in the finished
garment
 Cutting quality
 Production planning
Fabric characteristic and the design requirement in finished garment:

1. Alignment of patterns with respect to fabric grain – All the patterns in

the marker plan should be kept such that the grain line in the pattern should
be parallel to the fabric selvedge for better hanging and draping of
garments (Figure-1).
 Figure-1: Grain line in fabric
2. Fabric symmetry and asymmetry – If the face and back side of the
fabrics have a similar appearance, then they are called ‘two-way’ or
‘symmetrical’ fabrics and it does not warrant any special requirement while
marker planning. The asymmetric fabric where the face and back are
dissimilar needs some attention during marker planning.

Examples of asymmetric fabrics are those having a nap or pile. More

complicated fabrics are ‘one way’ or ‘asymmetrical’. These kinds of fabrics
have a surface pile or a print design that has a recognizable object which
can only be used one way.

3. Design requirements in final garment – Design aspects of final

garments also have to be considered while marker planning to get a better
visual appearance of the finished garment. For instance, if a vertical stripe
in a garment does not exhibit a complete replica of a repeat on the right
and left panels of garment it looks awkward.

Cutting quality:
Since most of the garment units utilize a vertical blade for cutting of fabric
panels, the marker plan should take into consideration the space required
for movement of the knife blade especially while cutting in curved areas.
The space required between the patterns in the marker plan depends on
the cutting method used.

A counting of number of patterns in the marker should be carried out to

verify the complete set of patterns has been incorporated in the marker
plan. After cutting of fabric panels, sorting of pattern pieces as per the size,
bundling of cut fabric panels as per the colour and size and finally pattern
count in each size should be done to confirm that all the patterns are
available for the assembling process. The marker planner should give
coding to all patterns with its size during the preparation of marker
planning.

Production planning:
Each order is specified by a certain quantity with respect to size and colour.
For example, an order for 12,000 trousers may include 4800 blue, 4800
green and 2400 red, across sizes 30, 32, 34 and 36 in the ratio 2:4:4:2. The
production planning and control department have to ensure adequate
supply of cut components to the sewing room at regular intervals.

Construction of Markers:
A marker is generally made by keeping the patterns one after the other in
the length of the marker. The marker length states the length of fabric that
could be used in a lay. The marker length is defined by the following
components, which are common to all markers.
1. Selvedge lines: The two parallel lines should be drawn parallel to
the edge of the cutting table. The gap or distance between the
selvedges represents the maximum fabric width that could be used
during marker planning.
2. Beginning line: The beginning line is at the left side of the marker
as seen by the marker planner and is perpendicular to the selvedge
lines and is considered a beginning position of the marker.
3. End line: The end line is marked at the end/right side of the marker
(opposite the beginning line) which is located after the extent of the
last pattern and is drawn parallel to the beginning line joining the
selvedge line.
4. Splice marks: Splice marks represent the area in the cutting table
where the fabrics are overlapped during the run out of fabric rolls or
 elimination of fabric defects during spreading. These marks are
placed along the control selvedge.
5. Legend: The legend is used to give the key about the marker and
normally consists of reference information about the marker.
6. Placement rules: The marker planner has to consider the following
general rules while marker planning:
         a. The grain line in the pattern should be parallel to the fabric
selvedge.
         b. The patterns should be placed on the marker by considering the
grain line in it.
         c. The patterns should be kept as close as possible to minimize fabric
wastage.
         d. The patterns can be placed from largest to smallest, to get higher
marker efficiency, leading to the least amount of pattern manipulation as
necessary.

Marker efficiency:
Success of marker planner is measured from the efficiency of
marker plan. Marker efficiency is defined as a ratio of area of
marker used in a garment and area of total marker.

According to Glock and Kunz, “Marker efficiency is determined

from fabric utilization, the percentage of total fabric that is actually
used in garment parts.”

Glock and Kunz also said in their book that, marker efficiency and
Fabric utilization is not same thing. In marker efficiency
calculation fabric wastage due to end bits and end loss is not
included but in fabric utilization calculation all kinds of fabric
wastage are included.
What is End Bits?
Before cutting, a fabric roll is opened and laid on the cutting table.
The lay length is set at certain length (known as marker length).
The fabric at the end of each roll which can’t be laid on the marker
due to short length of the fabric ply is called as end bits.
Remember it is not possible that you would get all rolls which
length is multiple of marker length.

In an article, Roger Thomas of Methods Apparel Consultancy

defined end bit as a piece of fabric that is longer than the length
required to lay up one complete size.

Example: Suppose you got a fabric roll of 61 meters. Marker

length is 5 meter. When you lay the fabric opening that roll after
layering 12th layer you will have 1 meter fabric as end bit.

What is End loss?

While layering fabric on the cutting table, cutting allowance is
taken at the both ends of the ply. The allowance of fabric in length
is called end loss. End loss can be also defined as length of fabric
of a lay that don’t get covered by marker.

By increasing marker length, fabric wastage due end loss can be

reduced. Mausmi Ambastha director of threadsol mentioned in
one article standard cut allowance is 2-4 cm per layer depending
on the fabric and cutting equipment to be used.

Example: Assume that calculated marker length is 6 meters and

you marked on the tables for layering plies taking 2 cm allowance
at each end of the marker. So end loss per layer is 4 cm. If you
have a lay of 100 plies, end loss will be equal to 400 cm (4
meters).

Calculation of Marker Efficiency:

Calculation of marker efficiency is explained below with formula.

General formula using area,

Area of pattern in the marker plan: CAD system
automatically calculates total area of garment pattern pieces
placed in a marker. So we get the area of marker that is
consumed by garments from CAD system.

Total area of marker plan: Total marker area can be

calculated by multiplying marker length by marker width.

In manual marker it is difficult to measure surface area of

garments patterns in a marker. You can use a mechanical device,
Planimeter, to calculate the surface area of pattern pieces from
outlines of the pattern pieces.

Another method can be practiced to calculate marker efficiency

when you don’t have CAD system or Planimeter. Calculate ratio
of weight of fabric consumed by pattern pieces and total weight
fabric under total marker area. So a separate formula is used to
find marker efficiency.

Formula using weight,

Weight of garment parts: To calculate weight of garment parts cut

one layer of fabric according to markers and weigh all garment
parts that are included in a marker.

Weight of marker total area: Measure weight of fabric (one layer) of

total marker area.