Tuneup Gas Engine
Tuneup Gas Engine
NOTICE
Sector:
AUTOMOTIVE
Qualifications:
Automotive Servicing NC I
Unit of Competency:
Perform Gas Engine Tune Up
Module Title:
TUNING UP GASOLINE ENGINE
Technical Education and Skills Development Authority
TESDA Complex, East Service Road, South Superhighway, Taguig, Metro Manila
The unit of competency "Perform Gas Engine Tune Up" contains the knowledge,
skills and attitudes required for Automotive Servicing. It is one of the specialized modules
at National Certificate level I (NC I).
Instruction sheets:
Operation Sheet - This will guide you in performing single task, operation or
process in a job.
Job Sheet - This is designed to guide you how to do a job that will
contribute to the attainment of the learning outcome.
Worksheet - Worksheets are the different forms that you need to fill-up
in certain activities that you performed.
You may already have some or most of the knowledge and skills covered in this
learner's guide because you have:
been working for some time
already completed training in this area.
If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent in a particular outcome,
you don't have to do the same training again.
Talk to your trainer about having them formally recognized. If you have a qualification
or Certificate of Competence from previous training, show it to you r trainer. If the skills you
acquired are still current and relevant to the unit/s of competency they may become part of
the evidence you can present for RPL. If you are not sure about the currency of your skills,
discuss this with your trainer.
After completing this module ask your trainer to assess your competency. Result of
your assessment will be recorded in your competency profile. All the learning activities are
designed for you to complete at your own pace.
Inside this learner's guide you will find the activities for you to complete and at the
back are the relevant information sheets for each learning outcome. Each learning outcome
may have more than one learning activities.
At the back of this learner's guide is a Learner Diary. Use this diary to record
important dates, jobs undertaken and other workplace events that will assist you in providing
further details to your trainer or an assessor. A Record of Achievement is also provided for
your trainer to complete once you complete the module.
Program /Course Automotive Servicing NC I
Unit of Competency Perform Gas Engine Tune Up
Module Tuning Up Gasoline Engine
INTRODUCTION:
The purpose of a gasoline engine is to convert gasoline into motion so that the
vehicle can move. Currently the easiest way to create motion from gasoline is to burn
the gasoline inside an engine. Therefore, an engine is an internal combustion
engine -- combustion takes place internally.
In this module you will identify gasoline engine troubles and perform tune up.
You will be performing activities to develop your skill in checking/adjusting valve
clearance; inspecting/testing and replacing spark plugs; checking/replacing fuel filter
and air cleaner; inspecting/replacing contact point condenser; testing/adjusting dwell
angle and ignition setting; adjusting engine idle speed and mixture; checking advance
mechanism and adjusting ignition timing; and conducting compression test.
You will also review underpinning knowledge such as types of lubricants and
fluids; automotive systems; equipment safety requirements; relevant company
policies; personal safety requirements; manual handling techniques; cleaning method
and materials; principle of engine operation; servicing inspection checklist; and
Positive work values (honesty, perseverance, attention to details).
After doing the learning activities in this module you will be assessed by your
instructor on tuning up gasoline engine.
LEARNING OUTCOMES
PREREQUISITES
To complete this module you must have the completed the following modules:
- Performing Housekeeping
- Performing Mensuration and Calculation
- Performing Safety Practices
- Reading, Interpreting and Applying Specifications and Manual
- Using and Applying Lubricants/ Coolants
- Perform Shop Maintenance
Quick and accurate diagnosis and service of the engine require the use of various test
instruments and gauges. These will show if the battery, starting, charging, fuel ignition
and emissions systems are operating properly. They would also indicate the mechanical
condition of the engine.
The magnetic tachometer is usually combined with the magnetic timing tester. It uses
a probe inserted in the engine probe hole. The probe reacts to a mark on the
crankshaft pulley or to a pulse ring or location indicator on the crankshaft. On an
engine with electronic engine control system (EEC), engine-speed data is available
through the diagnostic connector. A scan tool or a computerized engine analyzer can
display the rpm.
The spark plugs must be removed to use the compression tester. Before removing the
spark plugs, be sure the engine is at normal operating temperature and the battery is
fully charged. Use compressed air to blow any dirt out of the spark-plug wells. Another
way is to disconnect the cables, loosen the spark plugs about one turn and reconnect the
cables. Then start the engine. Run the engine for a few seconds at 1000 rpm. The
leaking combustion gases will blow the dirt out of the plug wells.
Remove the spark plugs. Block the throttle wide-open so the maximum amount of air
enters the cylinders. Thread the compression-tester adapter into the spark-plug hole of
number 1 cylinder. Disable the ignition to prevent coil damage from high-voltage arcing.
Note: Different steps are necessary to disable various ignition systems. On many engines
with a separate ignition coil, disconnect the primary lead from the negative terminal of
the coil. Some General Motor engines have high-energy ignition (HEI) with the coil in
the cap. Disable these by disconnecting the larger red wire from the distributor. To
disable a distributorless ignition system, disconnect the wiring-harness connector
between the ECM and the ignition module.
Disable the electric fuel pump. Operate the starting motor to crank the engine through
four compression strokes (eight crankshaft revolutions). The needle on the
compression gauge will move around to show the maximum pressure in the cylinder.
Write down this figure. Then test the other cylinders.
Engine compression reading are usually considered normal if the lowest reading is 75
percent or more of the highest. For example, if one cylinder in an engine has a
compression pressure of 120 psi (828 kPa), then all cylinders should have
compression readings of 90 psi (621 kPa) or higher. Typical compression pressures
vary among engines and manufacturers. In many General Motors engines, no
cylinder should have a compression pressure of less than 100 psi (690 kPa). Toyota
specifies a maximum compression pressure of 142 psi (990 kPa) in some engines.
The following section describes interpreting the results of the compression test.
The manufacturer’s specification show what the compression pressures should be. If
compression is low, there is leakage past the piston rings, valves or cylinder-head
gasket. If the readings vary, how they vary may indicate the cause of the problem.
Caution: Never perform a wet compression test on a diesel engine. The heat of a compression could
ignite the oil and damage the compression tester. Also, since the oil is not compressible, it
could fill the combustion chamber and create a hydrostatic lock. This prevents the crankshaft
from turning and may damage the engine.
A blown head gasket also causes a low reading during a wet compression test. The
gasket has burned away and compression pressure leaks between the cylinder block
and head. Low or no compression in two adjacent cylinders is probably due to a
blown head gasket between the two cylinders.
Whatever the cause—rings, pistons, cylinder walls, valves, gaskets—the cylinder
head must be removed to correct the trouble. The exception is an improper valve
adjustment that holds the valves slightly off their seats. Valves are adjusted with the
cylinder head in place.
Note: Inches or millimeters of mercury refers to the way the vacuum is measured. There is no mercury in the
gauge. The readings compare with the changes that a vacuum would produce on a column of mercury in a
barometer. Figure 9 shows the relationship among the various measurements of vacuum and pressure.
Reading Diagnosis
b. A steady and low reading on idle Average and Everything is
indicates less ignition or valve steady at 17- normal.
22.
timing, or possibly leakage past the
piston rings. This excessive blowby
could be due to worn or stuck piston
Another test using the vacuum pump is the cranking vacuum test. With the engine at
normal operating temperature, close the throttle valve and plug the PCV line. Disable
the ignition and crank the engine. An even cranking vacuum at normal cranking
speed indicates the engine is mechanically sound. Unevenness in the needle
movement indicates an air leak in one or more cylinders.
A different kind of tester measures NOx but it works in almost the same way. It draws
exhaust gas from the tail pipe and runs the gas through the analyzer. The finding is
reported in grams per mile. NO testers are usually only in testing laboratories. They
are not normally in automotive-service work.
Note: An exhaust gas analyzer can also be used to check for exhaust-gas leakage
into the cooling system. Figure 11 shows the exhaust-gas analyzer being used to
locate fuel or fuel-vapor leaks.
O2 Readings. These measure the percentage of oxygen remaining in the exhaust gas
after combustion has occurred. The air we breathe is about 21 percent oxygen. At
idle, the engine should produce less than three percent O 2. If the engine is running
richer than 14.7:1, O2 is low. As the air-fuel mixture becomes leaner than 14.7:1, O 2
increases. When lean mixture occurs, O2 increases greatly.
On some engines the ECM can run the cylinder-balance test automatically and store
the results. The technician signals the ECM to begin the test. The ECM then turns off
the fuel injector to each cylinder and measures engine rpm. This process repeats
until testing is completed.
Cylinder-balance testing can also be performed while watching the readings on a
four-gas analyzer. This may help diagnose the cause of a cylinder delivering low or
no power.
Figure 15. Computerized engine analyzer with two scope screens and a printer. (Sun Electric Corporation)
10. Service-Bay Diagnostic Computer – Some new-car dealerships and other service-bay
diagnostic computer in Figure 15. This is a computerized engine-and-exhaust gas
analyzer with additional capabilities. Ideally, the system enables the vehicle to tell the
During this same connection, the dealership computer sends or uploads information
fed into it during the day to the host computer. This provides overnight data exchange
of the latest service information between the dealer and the manufacturer. Similar
systems are available to independent shops. To provide the capabilities listed above,
the computer must store a wide range of service information. This information must
be quickly accessible and easily updated. Many computers store data on a compact
disc (CD), similar to the audio CD. When new information is needed, the technician
replaces the disc.
11. Dynamometer – the chassis dynamometer measures engine power and vehicle
speed under various operating conditions. The vehicle is driven onto two rollers so
the drive wheels can spin the rollers. The rollers drive a power absorber which is
usually under the floor. The vehicle remains stationary, but the engine and other
components operate the same as on a road test. Meters on a console report wheel
speed and torque or power.
The power absorber may be a heavy metal flywheel with an inertia weight, the same
as the weight of the vehicle. Or the power absorber may be a brake that places a
variable load on the rollers. The technician can connect an oscilloscope and a variety
of other testers to check the engine under operating conditions. When the vehicle is
driven on the dynamometer, the test instruments show engine performance while
idling, accelerating, cruising and decelerating. Shift points and other operating
conditions of an automatic transmission can also be checked.
Special dynamometers with two sets of rollers test all-wheel-drive vehicles.
Diagnostic dynamometers have sensitive motored rollers that may allow testing of
wheel alignment, suspension, steering and brakes.
Definition of a tuneup
An engine tuneup restores drivability, power, performance and economy that have
been lost through wear, corrosion and deterioration of engine parts. These changes take
place gradually in many parts through time and mileage. This means the parts are
affected by normal aging of the vehicle (time) and by normal vehicle operation (mileage).
A tuneup means different things to different people. To some, it means a quick check of
the usual engine trouble spots. To others, it means using test instruments to do a
complete analysis of the engine and its systems. Then all worn parts are repaired or
replaced and everything is adjusted to specifications.
Tuneup Procedure:
An engine tuneup follows a procedure. Many technicians use a printed form supplied
by automotive or test-equipment manufacturers. By following the form and checking off
the items listed, one by one, the technician avoid overlooking any test in the procedure.
All tuneup forms are not the same. The procedure to follow depends on the vehicle
and the engine as well as the shop equipment available. If the shop has an oscilloscope
or a dynamometer, use it as part of the tuneup procedure.
The steps in a typical tuneup procedure are given below. All steps do not apply to all
vehicles or to all engines.
1. Test and service the battery and starting motor. If the battery is low or the
customer complains that the battery keeps running down, check the charging
system. If the battery is defective. Install a new battery.
2. Inspect the drive belts. Replace any that are in poor condition. Replace both belts
in a two-V-belt set. Tighten the belts to the specified tension using a belt tension
gauge.
3. If the engine is cold, operate it for at least 20 minutes at 1500 rpm or until the
engine reaches normal operating temperature. Note any problems during warm-
up.
4. Connect the engine analyzer or oscilloscope and perform an electrical diagnosis.
Check for any abnormal ignition-system condition and the cylinder in which it
occurs.
5. Perform a comparison test. If necessary, perform a cylinder-leakage test and
engine vacuum tests. These provide additional information on engine condition. If
mechanical problems are found, tell the owner the engine cannot be tuned
satisfactorily until after it is repaired.
6. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the firing ends. Gap and install new spark
plugs. If reinstalling the old plugs, first clean, inspect, file, gap, and test them.
7. Inspect the ignition system. Look for the cause of any abnormal conditions seen
with the engine analyzer or oscilloscope. Check the condition of the distributor
cap, rotor and primary and secondary wiring. Replace any defective parts. On
contact-point ignition systems, clean and adjust (or replace) the contact points.
1. Before roadtesting the car, check the tires for specified inflation pressure and
for abnormal wear. Abnormal wear would mean suspension trouble and the
need for wheel alignment.
2. Check for proper operation of the instruments-panel warning lights, gauges,
and information displays.
3. Check the brakes for even and adequate braking.
4. Check the steering system for ease and smoothness of operation. Check for
excessive play in the steering system.
5. Check the suspension system for looseness, excessive play and wear. Check
the front-suspension ball joints for excessive wear. Check for loose wheel
bearings at the non-driving wheels. Adjust the wheel bearings if necessary.
6. Check the CV joints for noise and smooth operation. If a CV-joint boot is torn,
check for grit in the grease and for joint wear.
7. Check the operation of the clutch and manual transmission or transaxle. Note
the shift timing and shift quality in a vehicle with an automatic transmission or
transaxle.
8. Note any unusual noise, vibrations or hardness heard or felt during the road
test.
9. Check the headlights and horns to make sure they work. Check all other lights.
Replace burned-out bulbs. Check headlights aim, if necessary.
The preceding list of steps for tuneup and car care covers conditions that frequently
need service or cause trouble. When performed as a complete procedure, These
steps will locate many abnormal conditions that affect drivability and performance.
Correcting these conditions will improve vehicle performance and reliability.
Multiple-Choice Test
2. After the engine is at normal operating temperature, the first step in using the
compression tester is to:
a. disconnect the battery
b. adjust engine idle
c. remove the spark plugs
d. shift the transmission into low gear
3. The purpose of squirting a small amount of oil through the spark-plug hole while
compression-testing the cylinder is to
a. lubricate the piston rings
b. see if the compression pressure increases
c. measure manifold vacuum
d. make it easier to install the spark plugs
4. If squirting engine oil through the spark-plug hole does not increase compression
pressure, all the following could be the cause except
a. leakage past the valves
b. a broken valve spring
c. worn camshaft lobe
d. worn oil-control rings
6. The cylinder leakage tester applies air pressure to the cylinder with the piston
a. at TDC with both valves closed
b. at BDC with both valves closed
c. starting the compression stroke
d. at TDC with both valves open
8. A steady but low vacuum reading with no engine idling indicates that the engine
a. is losing power
b. has a stuck valve
c. exhaust system is restricted
d. ignition timing is advanced
Review Questions
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
RESOURCES:
5. VHS/CD
7. Communication Module
2. Check your knowledge and skill in this Complete the assessment tasks.
learning outcome.
At the end of this learning activity you should be able to check and adjust valve
tappet clearance of a gasoline engine.
LEARNING ACTIVITIES:
Intake - .012"
Exhaust - .020"
8. Replace the spark plug, spark plug wire and coil wire.
These assessment tasks should be completed when you are confident that you can
adjust valve tappet clearance of a gasoline engine. Assessment needs to conform to the
rules of evidence. Therefore:
OBSERVATION CHECKLIST:
Trainer’s check
Self
Component Competent Not yet
check
competent
High tension coil wire is disconnected and
properly grounded.
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
RESOURCES:
6. VHS/CD
7. Communication Module
1. Define the purpose and functions of Read Information Sheet LO2-1 “Spark
the spark plug. Identify the conditions Plug Overview”
that affect spark plug operation.
4. Check your knowledge and skill in this Complete the assessment tasks.
learning outcome.
At the end of this learning activity you should be able to adjust spark plug
clearance and test it on a gasoline engine.
LEARNING ACTIVITIES:
a. Read Information Sheets LO2-1 and LO2-2 and perform the following:
Spark plugs are one of the most misunderstood components of an engine. Numerous
questions have surfaced over the years, leaving many people confused.
This guide was designed to assist the technician, hobbyist, or race mechanic in
understanding, using, and troubleshooting spark plugs. The information contained in this
guide applies to all types of internal combustion engines: two stroke engines, rotary
engines, high performance/racing engines and street vehicles.
Spark plugs are the "window" into your engine (your only eyewitness to the combustion
chamber), and can be used as a valuable diagnostic tool. Like a patient's thermometer,
the spark plug displays symptoms and conditions of the engine's performance. The
experienced tuner can analyze these symptoms to track down the root cause of many
problems, or to determine air/fuel ratios.
The insulator nose length is the distance from the firing tip of the insulator to the point
where insulator meets the metal shell. Since the insulator tip is the hottest part of the
spark plug, the tip temperature is a primary factor in pre-ignition and fouling. Whether the
spark plugs are fitted in a lawnmower, boat, or a race car, the spark plug tip temperature
must remain between 500C-850°C. If the tip temperature is lower than 500°C, the
insulator area surrounding the center electrode will not be hot enough to burn off carbon
and combustion chamber deposits. These accumulated deposits can result in spark plug
fouling leading to misfire. If the tip temperature is higher than 850°C the spark plug will
overheat which may cause the ceramic around the center electrode to blister and the
electrodes to melt. This may lead to pre-ignition/detonation and expensive engine
damage. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one heat range to the next is
the ability to remove approximately 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber. A
projected style spark plug firing tip temperature is increased by 10°C to 20°C.
The firing end appearance also depends on the spark plug tip temperature. There are
three basic diagnostic criteria for spark plugs: good, fouled and overheated. The
borderline between the fouling and optimum operating regions (500&def;C) is called the
spark plug self-cleaning temperature. The temperature at this point is where the
accumulated carbon and combustion deposits are burned off.
Bearing in mind that the insulator nose length is a determining factor in the heat range of
a spark plug, the longer the insulator nose, the less heat is absorbed, and the further the
heat must travel into the cylinder head water journals. This means the plug has a higher
internal temperature, and is said to be a hot plug. A hot spark plug maintains a higher
internal operating temperature to burn off oil and carbon deposits, and has no
relationship to spark quality or intensity.
Conversely, a cold spark plug has a shorter insulator nose and absorbs more
combustion chamber heat. This heat travels a shorter distance, and allows the plug to
operate at a lower internal temperature. A colder heat range is necessary when the
engine is modified for performance, subjected to heavy loads, or is run at high rpms for a
significant period of time. The colder type removes heat more quickly, and will reduce the
chance of pre-ignition/detonation and melting or damage to the firing end. (Engine
temperature can affect the spark plug's operating temperature, but not the spark plugs
heat range).
Below is a list of some of the possible external influences on a spark plug's operating
temperatures. The following symptoms or conditions may have an effect on the actual
temperature of the spark plug. The spark plug cannot create these conditions, but it must
be able to cope with the levels of heat...if not, the performance will suffer and engine
damage can occur.
Steps:
1. Hand-tighten each spark plug in place. If you feel any resistance, stop and start over
to prevent cross-threading.
2. Tighten the plugs with a socket wrench until snug. Do not overtighten.
3. Replace the spark plug wires. Usually, you will hear a soft pop when the plug wire
snaps onto the plug.
4. Start the engine. Listen. If the engine runs roughly or doesn't start, make sure the
wires are pushed all the way onto the new plugs.
Note: Improperly gapped plugs will make your car run roughly, start poorly and have bad
gas mileage. Always clean the threads before installing.
A lot can be learned about your engine condition and what it sees by properly reading
and "understanding" your spark plugs. This information sheet will show you pictures as
well as explanations on causes and effects of what you see when viewing you spark
plugs.
Normal Condition
Excessive electrode wear, misfire during
acceleration and hard starting.
Simply put as in it's description, it's worn out ... it looks ok
color wise, so replace it with same plug or at least compatible
heat range. You've all heard the term " If it works, don't fix it".
Don't look for flaws with this plug ... just blame yourself for not
changing it sooner.
Mechanical Damage
Detonation
On this symptom you will notice a chalky
appearance, white insulator, rapid electrode wear
as well as an absence of deposits. The actual shell
may also be discolored.
To cure this you must first verify that the plug is the correct
heat range, the ignition timing settings are correct, the air/fuel
mixture is not too lean, there are no vacuum leaks and that
the EGR valve (if equipped) is functioning properly.
Overheated
These are light-brownish deposits that are
encrusted to the ground and/or center electrode(s).
This situation is caused by oil and/or fuel additives.
This condition can cause misfires.
The cure for this is to verify worn valve guides or valve seals,
not using fuel additives, or you might even try changing fuel
brands. By the way, a hotter plug is what most people try to
fix this problem. You need to first understand that the plug is
NOT typically the problem.
Ash Deposits
Oily coating caused by poor oil control. Oil is
leaking past worn valve guides, piston rings, or on
some race engines a possible intake gasket leak
and then entering the combustion chamber.
Check for worn valve guides (NEVER knurl valve guides),
intake gasket sealing alignment, as well as worn cylinder
walls and piston rings. A leak down test is a good place to
start for what is causing this.
Oil Fouled
After you see this, you'd better look for possible internal
engine damage as well. (pistons, cylinder walls, valves, rings,
etc.)
Splashed Deposits
Carbon Fouled
As a general rule on all computer-controlled engines, you need to also make sure that all
input signals to the computer are working and accurate. This includes, but is not limited
to, all temperature and pressure sensors as well as the EFI system components.
Lastly on all engines, check for vacuum leaks and weak spark or low voltage output.
(Good reason for a better coil and aftermarket ignition unit "amplifier").
Steps:
1. Find the chart listing the proper "gap" for your plugs in your car's repair manual. The
spark plug gap may also be on the sticker on the inside of the car's hood. The parts
store can provide you with this specification as well or read the basics below.
2. Insert the spark plug gapping tool in the
gap between the metal center electrode
and the metal side electrode of the
plug's tip.
5. Repeat with each plug.
Note: Spark plug gap specifications are listed in inches and/or millimeters. The gapper
will have inches on one side and millimeters on the other.
Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature and on the
voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While
it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains
that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those
with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or
forced induction will typically require a smaller gap setting (to ensure ignitability in these
denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap
you will need.
A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger
the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know
that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn
efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The
added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.
Proper gapping of the spark plug is necessary to get maximum spark energy, lowest
RFI release as well as what is best for the longevity of the secondary ignition
components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs).
Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 41
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
When checking plug gaps, the correct way is to use ONLY wire gauges, though many
of us are using the slider style gapping tools. These flat or feeler gauge style gauges
do not accurately measure true width of spark plug gap.
When increasing the gap size for our high performance applications utilizing
advanced ignition systems such as Mallory, Accel, Jacobs, Crane and Holley ... it is
important never to go more than plus or minus .008". This is to maintain parallel
surfaces between ground and the center electrodes.
Something many people do not know is that with Higher Compression ratios and
Superchargers as well as Nitrous, in many cases smaller spark plug gaps must be
used as well as the use of a much hotter ignition system (see above). These higher
cylinder pressures require more energy to jump the spark plug gap.
The rule of thumb on plug gaps is to open them up in .002" increments at a time.
When the car (race vehicle) begins to lose power or slow down then go back .
001-.002" and this in most cases is the optimum gap.
Remembering that the Ignition Unit, plug brand as well as heat range, cap and/or rotor styles and in many
cases fuel type or brand will change the optimum spark plug gap settings.
Lastly, NEVER use the porcelain insulator as a fulcrum point when setting these gaps.
This can cause damage to the spark plug.
These assessment tasks should be completed when you are confident that you can
inspect/test spark plugs. Assessment needs to conform to the rules of evidence.
Therefore:
OBSERVATION CHECKLIST:
Trainer’s check
Self
Component Competent Not yet
check
competent
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
RESOURCES:
7. VHS/CD
7. Communication Module
4. Check your knowledge and skill in this Complete the assessment tasks.
learning outcome.
At the end of this learning activity you should be able to check and replace fuel
filter and air cleaner of a gasoline engine.
LEARNING ACTIVITIES:
a. Read Operation Sheet LO3-1, and then perform the activity with the
presence of your instructor.
A clogged air or fuel filter can cause poor performance, cost you at the fuel pump, and
shorten engine life. This simple procedure guards against that. A good rule of thumb is
once or twice a year, or roughly once every 12,000 miles.
Steps:
1. Rest the vehicle for 24 hours to let any remaining fuel pressure bleed off.
Check valves in the fuel lines are meant to maintain pressure to help prevent vapor lock.
2. Locate the fuel filter.
Note: The fuel filter is located on the
right side of the engine bay just in front
of the power steering fluid reservoir. To
provide room to work it is highly
recommended you remove the entire
air cleaner housing.
10. Theoretically, you should be able to use a 17mm and 19mm flare wrench on the
connection towards the front of the car. However, it is up underneath the front of the
engine bay and the leverage angles are awkward. After 5 minutes of grunting and
groaning with no obvious movement of the two nuts I chose a different approach.
First, loosen the fuel filter hose clamp. Then put the 17mm flare wrench on and
braced it against the side of the engine bay to hold the fuel line steady. Finally, use
the 7/8" open wrench on the nut shaped portion of the fuel filter (side facing rear of
car) where the first connection had already been undone. This allowed a much better
leverage angle on the 7/8" wrench / fuel filter. Using this method you will be able to
get the fuel filter off. However, it left the 19mm nut that was originally part of the fuel
filter connected to the 17mm fuel line nut. Also, once the fuel filter started to come
loose another 1/3 of a cup of gas came pouring out from the already open end of the
filter (like opening the vent plug of a 5 gallon gas can).
The fuel line is supported by a bracket
a few inches farther forward in the
engine bay (see previous pictures). A
few inches farther upstream from the
bracket, the metal fuel line changes to
a rubber line. By loosening the fuel line
support bracket you can now move the
fuel line into a position that you could
use the 17mm and 19mm flare
wrenches with a good leverage angle
and will be able to finally separate the
two nuts.
All that remain is to put everything back together again pretty much in the reverse order
you took it all apart. The order was:
1. Reattach the fuel line support bracket (remembering the offset plastic washer!).
2. Insert new fuel filter and attach to the forward 17mm fuel line nut. Be careful to get
the filter oriented the proper direction. There should be an arrow on the fuel filter itself
(should point to the rear of the car) and the nut arrangement between the fuel lines
and filter are one directional, but just be sure.
3. Attach the other fuel line (19mm nut).
4. Secure the fuel filter hose clamp. Mark the mileage and date on the filter for future
reference.
5. Attach the rubber hose to the lower left corner of the air cleaner housing.
6. Set the air cleaner housing onto the two lower rubber support mounts and work the
mass air flow sensor into the back of the air cleaner housing being cognizant of the
sealing gasket.
7. Rotate the mass air flow sensor to the rear of the car to re-engage the bayonet lock
between the air flow sensor and the air cleaner housing.
8. Secure the 10mm support bolt on the upper left half of the air cleaner housing.
It all looks random, but the premium-priced filter "papers" are more consistent in the
sizes of the pores than it seems, and a quality material is a mathematically predictable
barrier to dirt particles. In actuality, the layers of fibers form a maze and some of the dirt
also is trapped within the layers of the paper. The inrushing air produces some static
electricity, which also causes some smaller dirt particles to adhere to the surfaces of the
paper fibers.
Air filters actually work better as the filter material fills up with debris. Holes are plugged
by fine particles, and fewer voids remain to pass other particles. But a point comes when
not enough voids remain to pass the air needed to supply your engine. The result is
inadequate oxygen to burn the fuel at wide-open throttle. With carbureted engines, this
used to mean rich running. Modern fuel-injected engines meter the air admitted to the
intake and add appropriate fuel–making for a clean-running engine that eventually won't
get out of its own way. At least carbureted cars coughed and sputtered to let you know
that you had a problem.
Changing the air filter should be part of any major tune-up, but if you drive on dirt roads
or in other dusty conditions, you will need to replace it more frequently. On most cars,
this is a fairly simple procedure. You should change your car's air filter every 15,000
miles.
Steps:
Warning: Avoid using the wrong size air filter. Your engine will run less efficiently.
Note: Reusable air filters cost more than disposable filters, but if cared for correctly, they
can last for over 50,000 miles.
Another good way to make your air filter last is to actually use a vacuum cleaner. Simply
take the filter out and with the small attachments from the vacuum, suck out the dust and
dirt. Good as new and it will make your filter last a littler longer.
These assessment tasks should be completed when you are confident that you can
check/replace fuel filter and air cleaner. Assessment needs to conform to the rules of
evidence. Therefore:
OBSERVATION CHECKLIST:
Trainer’s check
Self
Component Competent Not yet
check
competent
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
RESOURCES:
8. VHS/CD
7. Communication Module
2. Check your knowledge and skill in this Complete the assessment tasks.
learning outcome.
At the end of this learning activity you should be able to inspect and replace
ignition breaker and condenser of a gasoline engine.
LEARNING ACTIVITIES:
a. Read Operation Sheet LO4-1, and then perform the activity with the
presence of your instructor.
These assessment tasks should be completed when you are confident that you can
check/replace fuel filter and air cleaner. Assessment needs to conform to the rules of
evidence. Therefore:
OBSERVATION CHECKLIST:
Trainer’s check
Self
Component Competent Not yet
check
competent
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
RESOURCES:
9. VHS/CD
7. Communication Module
2. Check your knowledge and skill in this Complete the assessment tasks.
learning outcome.
At the end of this learning activity you should be able to inspect and replace
contact point condenser of a gasoline engine.
LEARNING ACTIVITIES:
a. Read Operation Sheet LO5-1, and then perform the activity with the
presence of your instructor.
*The percent of dwell is the percentage of the actual dwell angle of the points as
compared to the maximum, dwell angle possible (100 percent dwell). The 100
percent dwell for 4, 6, and 8 cylinder engines, and some examples of percent of dwell
are listed in Table 1.
TABLE 1
If a distributor cannot be adjusted so that gap and dwell are within specifications at the
same time inspect the distributor for the following possibilities:
1) Connect the dwell meter as per its manufacturer's instructions: Generally one of two
leads is connected to the positive terminal of the battery and the other lead to the
negative terminal of the coil.
1. Set the timing by connecting the light (inductive or direct) and then mark the correct
timing position on the crank pulley or damper.
Note: Connect the power lead to the + terminal on the battery or the + side of the coil
and the other wire to ground.
2. Follow your engine manual and make an easy-to-read mark with White-Out (liquid
paper) or chalk.
3. Disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor and stick a pencil or nail into it to
prevent a vacuum leak.
4. Start the engine and get it running about 500-600 rpm to prevent any action from the
centrifugal advance mechanism (if there is one) and then slowly rotate the distributor
until the timing mark lines up with its pointer.
5. Tighten the hold-down on the distributor. If the engine won't run slowly enough back
off on the accelerator linkage at the carburetor. If the engine runs too slow increase
the idle speed.
6. Check the timing again and then put the light away.
These assessment tasks should be completed when you are confident that you can
check/replace fuel filter and air cleaner. Assessment needs to conform to the rules of
evidence. Therefore:
OBSERVATION CHECKLIST:
Trainer’s check
Self
Component Competent Not yet
check
competent
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
RESOURCES:
5. VHS/CD
7. Communication Module
1. Adjust engine idle speed and mixture Follow the procedures in Operation
of a gasoline engine with the Sheets LO6-1 “Adjust Engine Idle
presence of your instructor. Speed” and LO6-2 Adjust Carburetor
Air-Fuel Mixture”
2. Check your knowledge and skill in this Complete the assessment tasks.
learning outcome.
At the end of this learning activity you should be able to set the air-fuel mixture
and idle speed (rpm) of a gasoline engine.
LEARNING ACTIVITIES:
a. Read Operation Sheets LO6-1 and LO6-2, and then perform the
activities with the presence of your instructor.
b. Adjust engine idle speed and mixture of a gasoline engine with the
presence of your instructor.
An improper air-to-fuel mixture results in bad engine performance and higher gas
consumption. Shown here are the steps in adjusting engine idle speed.
Procedure:
1. Determine if your car has a carburetor by checking your owner’s manual. Try looking
below the air filter to find the carburetor.
2. Be sure the engine is shut off then open the hood.
3. Remove the air filter by first
unscrewing the wing nut on top. No
need to disconnect any hoses
connected to the air filter - just
carefully set it aside.
9. Check accelerator pedal stop bolt and adjust if necessary. When the accelerator
pedal is depressed against the stop bolt, the carburetor arm should be clearing the
carburetor stop block by about 1 mm (.039 in).
11. Turn screw(s) back out 1/4 turn until the engine runs smoothly.
12. Let the engine run for a minutes. If done properly, you now have a lean burn setting
on your fuel mix. DO NOT GO BACK AND FIDDLE WITH YOUR IDLE SPEED OR
TIMING. IF YOU DO YOU WILL HAVE TO DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN. THE FUEL
MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT IS THE LAST THING YOU DO.
These assessment tasks should be completed when you are confident that you can
check/replace fuel filter and air cleaner. Assessment needs to conform to the rules of
evidence. Therefore:
OBSERVATION CHECKLIST:
Trainer’s check
Self
Component Competent Not yet
check
competent
Engine speed (rpm) is checked and adjusted
properly.
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
RESOURCES:
5. VHS/CD
7. Communication Module
2. Check your knowledge and skill in this Complete the assessment tasks.
learning outcome.
At the end of this learning activity you should be able to perform compression test
on a gasoline engine.
LEARNING ACTIVITIES:
a. Read Job Sheet LO7-1, and then perform the activity with the
presence of your instructor.
The cylinder compression tester measures the ability of the cylinders to hold
compression while the starting motor cranks the engine. The compression tester is a
pressure gauge that measures the amount of pressure or compression, built-up in the
cylinder during the compression stroke. How well a cylinder holds compression is an
indication of the condition of the piston, piston rings, cylinder wall, valves and head
gasket.
Figure LO7-1.
5. Set the engine speed control to stop position.
6. Turn the engine with the starter until the pressure gauge registers no further rise in
pressure.
Note: It is a good practice to count the number of compression strokes, indicated by movement
of the gauge needle, and check each cylinder with the same number of strokes. The
engine must be at full cranking speed or as specified in appropriate service manual to get
a good reading.
Note: Low pressure indicates leakage through valves, rings or gaskets. Variations in cylinder
pressures of more than 10% usually indicate a need for cylinder reconditioning.
Engine compression readings are usually considered normal if the lowest reading is
75 percent or more of the highest.
For example, if one cylinder in an engine has a compression pressure of 120 psi (828
kPa), then all cylinders should have compression readings of 90 psi (621 kPa) or
higher. Typical compression pressures vary among engines and manufacturers. In
many General Motors engines, no cylinder should have a compression pressure of
less than 100 psi (690 kPa). Toyota specifies a maximum compression pressure of
142 psi (990 kPa) in some engines. The following section describes interpreting the
results of the compression test.
The manufacturer’s specification show what the compression pressures should be. If
compression is low, there is leakage past the piston rings, valves or cylinder-head
gasket. If the readings vary, how they vary may indicate the cause of the problem.
Caution: Never perform a wet compression test on a diesel engine. The heat of a
compression could ignite the oil and damage the compression tester. Also, since the
oil is not compressible, it could fill the combustion chamber and create a hydrostatic
lock. This prevents the crankshaft from turning and may damage the engine.
These assessment tasks should be completed when you are confident that you can
check/replace fuel filter and air cleaner. Assessment needs to conform to the rules of
evidence. Therefore:
OBSERVATION CHECKLIST:
Trainer’s check
Self
Component Competent Not yet
check
competent
DIARY NOTES
Record important dates, jobs undertaken and other workplace events that will assist you in providing
further details to an Assessor.
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