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Tuneup Gas Engine

This document provides a competency-based learning module on tuning up gasoline engines. It contains 7 learning outcomes related to measuring and adjusting valve clearance, testing spark plugs, checking and replacing fuel and air filters, testing and replacing ignition breakers, checking and adjusting distributor settings, setting fuel mixture and idle RPM, and performing compression testing. The module aims to develop skills for identifying gasoline engine issues and performing tune-ups according to company and manufacturer specifications. Learners will review related knowledge and safety practices before completing learning activities to demonstrate competence in tuning up gasoline engines. Upon completion, learners will be assessed by their instructor.

Uploaded by

Franz Martinez
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as DOC, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
100% found this document useful (1 vote)
1K views104 pages

Tuneup Gas Engine

This document provides a competency-based learning module on tuning up gasoline engines. It contains 7 learning outcomes related to measuring and adjusting valve clearance, testing spark plugs, checking and replacing fuel and air filters, testing and replacing ignition breakers, checking and adjusting distributor settings, setting fuel mixture and idle RPM, and performing compression testing. The module aims to develop skills for identifying gasoline engine issues and performing tune-ups according to company and manufacturer specifications. Learners will review related knowledge and safety practices before completing learning activities to demonstrate competence in tuning up gasoline engines. Upon completion, learners will be assessed by their instructor.

Uploaded by

Franz Martinez
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as DOC, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 104

COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

NOTICE

This learning material is for validation at TESDA


technical institutions. This may not be reproduced
and redistributed.
This may be used only until October 2006 unless
otherwise recalled earlier.
Please e-mail all your comments to
[email protected]

Sector:
AUTOMOTIVE
Qualifications:
Automotive Servicing NC I
Unit of Competency:
Perform Gas Engine Tune Up
Module Title:
TUNING UP GASOLINE ENGINE
Technical Education and Skills Development Authority
TESDA Complex, East Service Road, South Superhighway, Taguig, Metro Manila

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Module – Repairing Starting System
AST-NC2-C1.2 Aug. 15, 2003 ii
NATIONAL CERTIFICATE LEVEL 1
QUALIFICATION LEVEL

COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIALS


No. Basic Competencies Module Title Code
1. Receive and Respond to Receiving and Responding to 500311101
Workplace Communication Workplace Communication
2. Work with Others Working with Others 500311102
3. Demonstrate Work Values Demonstrating Work Values 500311103
4. Practice Housekeeping Practicing Housekeeping 500311104
Procedures Procedures

No. Common Competencies Module Title Code


1. Apply Appropriate Applying Appropriate ALT723201
Sealant/Adhesive Sealant/Adhesive
2. Move and Position Vehicle Moving and Positioning Vehicle ALT723202
3. Perform Housekeeping Performing Housekeeping ALT311201
4. Perform Mensuration and Performing Mensuration and ALT311202
Calculation Calculation
5. Perform Safety Practices Performing Safety Practices ALT311203
6 Read, Interpret and Apply Reading, Interpreting and ALT723203
Specifications and Manual Applying Specifications and
Manual
7. Use and Apply Lubricant/Coolant Using and Applying Lubricants/ ALT723204
Coolants
8. Perform Shop Maintenance Perform Shop Maintenance ALT723205

No. Core Competencies Module Title Code


1. Perform Diesel Engine Tune Up Tuning Up Diesel Engine ALT723301
2. Perform Gas Engine Tune Tuning Up Gasoline ALT723302
Up Engine
3. Service Automotive Battery Testing and Servicing Automotive ALT723303
Battery
4. Service Ignition System Servicing and Repairing Ignition ALT723304
System
5. Test and Repair Wiring/Lighting Installing Automotive Lighting ALT723305a
System System
Testing and Repairing Wiring/ ALT723305b
Lighting System
6. Perform Underchassis Preventive Performing Underchassis ALT723306
Maintenance Preventive Maintenance
How to use this Competency-Based Learning Material
Welcome to the Module Tuning Up Gasoline Engine. This module contains training
materials and activities for you to complete.

The unit of competency "Perform Gas Engine Tune Up" contains the knowledge,
skills and attitudes required for Automotive Servicing. It is one of the specialized modules
at National Certificate level I (NC I).

You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to complete


each learning outcomes of the module. In each learning outcome there are Instruction
Sheets to help you better understand the required activities. Follow these activities on your
own and answer the self-check at the end of each learning outcome. You may remove a
blank answer sheet at the end of each module (or get one from your facilitator/trainer) to
write your answers for each self-check. If you have questions, don’t hesitate to ask your
facilitator for assistance.

Instruction sheets:

 Information Sheet - This will provide you with information (concepts,


principles and other relevant information) needed in
performing certain activities.

 Operation Sheet - This will guide you in performing single task, operation or
process in a job.

 Job Sheet - This is designed to guide you how to do a job that will
contribute to the attainment of the learning outcome.

 Assignment Sheet - The assignment sheet is a guide used to enhance (follow-


up) what you have learned in the information sheet,
operation sheet or job sheet.

 Worksheet - Worksheets are the different forms that you need to fill-up
in certain activities that you performed.

Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL)

You may already have some or most of the knowledge and skills covered in this
learner's guide because you have:
 been working for some time
 already completed training in this area.

If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you are competent in a particular outcome,
you don't have to do the same training again.

Talk to your trainer about having them formally recognized. If you have a qualification
or Certificate of Competence from previous training, show it to you r trainer. If the skills you
acquired are still current and relevant to the unit/s of competency they may become part of
the evidence you can present for RPL. If you are not sure about the currency of your skills,
discuss this with your trainer.
After completing this module ask your trainer to assess your competency. Result of
your assessment will be recorded in your competency profile. All the learning activities are
designed for you to complete at your own pace.

Inside this learner's guide you will find the activities for you to complete and at the
back are the relevant information sheets for each learning outcome. Each learning outcome
may have more than one learning activities.

At the back of this learner's guide is a Learner Diary. Use this diary to record
important dates, jobs undertaken and other workplace events that will assist you in providing
further details to your trainer or an assessor. A Record of Achievement is also provided for
your trainer to complete once you complete the module.
Program /Course Automotive Servicing NC I
Unit of Competency Perform Gas Engine Tune Up
Module Tuning Up Gasoline Engine
INTRODUCTION:

The purpose of a gasoline engine is to convert gasoline into motion so that the
vehicle can move. Currently the easiest way to create motion from gasoline is to burn
the gasoline inside an engine. Therefore, an engine is an internal combustion
engine -- combustion takes place internally.
In this module you will identify gasoline engine troubles and perform tune up.
You will be performing activities to develop your skill in checking/adjusting valve
clearance; inspecting/testing and replacing spark plugs; checking/replacing fuel filter
and air cleaner; inspecting/replacing contact point condenser; testing/adjusting dwell
angle and ignition setting; adjusting engine idle speed and mixture; checking advance
mechanism and adjusting ignition timing; and conducting compression test.

You will also review underpinning knowledge such as types of lubricants and
fluids; automotive systems; equipment safety requirements; relevant company
policies; personal safety requirements; manual handling techniques; cleaning method
and materials; principle of engine operation; servicing inspection checklist; and
Positive work values (honesty, perseverance, attention to details).

After doing the learning activities in this module you will be assessed by your
instructor on tuning up gasoline engine.

LEARNING OUTCOMES

Upon completion of this module you should be able to:

1. Measure/adjust valve tappet clearance;


2. Test spark plug;
3. Check/replace fuel and air filter;
4. Test and replace ignition breaker;
5. Check and adjust distributor setting;
6. Set fuel mixture and idle rpm; and
7. Perform compression testing.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 1
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
PERFORMANCE CRITERIA

All standard of performance for Tuning Up Gasoline Engine is in accordance


with company standard operating procedure and manufacturer’s specification
Manuals using specified tools and equipment.
1. Measure/adjust valve tappet clearance:
1.1. Valve tappet clearance is set
1.2. Checking and adjustment is performed
2. Test spark plug:
2.1. Spark plug clearance is adjusted.
2.2. Spark plug is tested.
2.3. Spark plug test result analyzed and appropriate recommendations are
prescribed.
3. Check/replace fuel filter and air cleaner:
3.1. Fuel filter and air cleaner are replaced.
3.2. Fuel filter is free of sediments and impurities.
4. Test and replace ignition breaker:
4.1. Ignition breaker is tested and replaced
4.2. Condenser is tested and replaced
5. Check/adjust ignition distributor setting:
5.1. Ignition distributor is checked
5.2 Ignition distributor setting is adjusted
6. Set fuel mixture and idle rpm:
6.1. Fuel mixture and idle rpm is adjusted
6.2. Advanced timing is checked
7. Perform compression test:
7.1. Compression test is performed.
7.2. Compression test result is interpreted and appropriates recommendations is
prescribed.

PREREQUISITES

To complete this module you must have the completed the following modules:

- Performing Housekeeping
- Performing Mensuration and Calculation
- Performing Safety Practices
- Reading, Interpreting and Applying Specifications and Manual
- Using and Applying Lubricants/ Coolants
- Perform Shop Maintenance

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 2
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
Information Sheet: Identifying Testing and Tune-up Equipment

Engine Test Equipment

Quick and accurate diagnosis and service of the engine require the use of various test
instruments and gauges. These will show if the battery, starting, charging, fuel ignition
and emissions systems are operating properly. They would also indicate the mechanical
condition of the engine.

1. Tachometer – Electric or optical tachometers


are used in the shop. The electric tachometer
connects to the engine primary circuit. The
tach counts the number of times per second
the primary circuit opens and closes. The
optical tachometer has a light beam focused
on a rotating part such as the engine
crankshaft pulley. The tach counts how many
times per second a mark on the pulley passes
by.
(A) INSTRUMENT-PANEL TACHOMETER

The magnetic tachometer is usually combined with the magnetic timing tester. It uses
a probe inserted in the engine probe hole. The probe reacts to a mark on the
crankshaft pulley or to a pulse ring or location indicator on the crankshaft. On an
engine with electronic engine control system (EEC), engine-speed data is available
through the diagnostic connector. A scan tool or a computerized engine analyzer can
display the rpm.

2. Dwellmeter – The dwellmeter electrically


measures how long the contact points
remaing closed during each ignition cycle of a
contact-point ignition system. The average for
all cylinders is then displayed in degrees of
distributor-cam rotation. The technican can
also use the dwellmeter to set contact-point
gap and to check for unwanted dwell variation
as engine speed increases. Excessive (B) SHOP TACHOMETER (DWELL-TACH)
variation indicates mechanical trouble in the
distributor. Figure 1. Instrument-panel and shop
tachometers that measures crankshaft
speed or engine rpm.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 3
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
In electronic ignition systems, the ECM
controls dwell. It is not adjustable. The
dwellmeter is used to check the duty cycle of
the mixture-control solenoid in a feedback
carburetor.

A dwell-tach meter is a single meter that


serves as both a dwellmeter and a
tachometer. This is possible because both
meters have two leads and require the same
connections. Pushing a button or turning a
knob on the meter switches the reading from Figure 2. Dwellmeter showing the scales for
rpm to dwell. eight, six and four cylinder engines (Sun
Electric Corporation).

3. Cylinder Compression Tester – The cylinder


compression tester measures the ability of the
cylinders to hold compression while the
starting motor cranks the engine. The
compression tester is a pressure gauge that
measures the amount of pressure or
compression, built-up in the cylinder during
the compression stroke. How well a cylinder
holds compression is an indication of the
condition of the piston, piston rings, cylinder Figure 3. Using a cylinder compression
wall, valves and head gasket. tester. (Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.)

The spark plugs must be removed to use the compression tester. Before removing the
spark plugs, be sure the engine is at normal operating temperature and the battery is
fully charged. Use compressed air to blow any dirt out of the spark-plug wells. Another
way is to disconnect the cables, loosen the spark plugs about one turn and reconnect the
cables. Then start the engine. Run the engine for a few seconds at 1000 rpm. The
leaking combustion gases will blow the dirt out of the plug wells.

Remove the spark plugs. Block the throttle wide-open so the maximum amount of air
enters the cylinders. Thread the compression-tester adapter into the spark-plug hole of
number 1 cylinder. Disable the ignition to prevent coil damage from high-voltage arcing.

Note: Different steps are necessary to disable various ignition systems. On many engines
with a separate ignition coil, disconnect the primary lead from the negative terminal of
the coil. Some General Motor engines have high-energy ignition (HEI) with the coil in
the cap. Disable these by disconnecting the larger red wire from the distributor. To
disable a distributorless ignition system, disconnect the wiring-harness connector
between the ECM and the ignition module.

Disable the electric fuel pump. Operate the starting motor to crank the engine through
four compression strokes (eight crankshaft revolutions). The needle on the
compression gauge will move around to show the maximum pressure in the cylinder.
Write down this figure. Then test the other cylinders.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 4
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
Engine compression reading are usually considered normal if the lowest reading is 75
percent or more of the highest. For example, if one cylinder in an engine has a
compression pressure of 120 psi (828 kPa), then all cylinders should have
compression readings of 90 psi (621 kPa) or higher. Typical compression pressures
vary among engines and manufacturers. In many General Motors engines, no
cylinder should have a compression pressure of less than 100 psi (690 kPa). Toyota
specifies a maximum compression pressure of 142 psi (990 kPa) in some engines.
The following section describes interpreting the results of the compression test.

Results of Compression Test

Engine compression reading are usually considered normal if the lowest reading is 75
percent or more of the highest. For example, if one cylinder in an engine has a
compression pressure of 120 psi (828 kPa), then all cylinders should have
compression readings of 90 psi (621 kPa) or higher. Typical compression pressures
vary among engines and manufacturers. In many General Motors engines, no
cylinder should have a compression pressure of less than 100 psi (690 kPa). Toyota
specifies a maximum compression pressure of 142 psi (990 kPa) in some engines.
The following section describes interpreting the results of the compression test.

The manufacturer’s specification show what the compression pressures should be. If
compression is low, there is leakage past the piston rings, valves or cylinder-head
gasket. If the readings vary, how they vary may indicate the cause of the problem.

A Compression test made as described in Figure 4 is a dry compression test. In a


spark-ignition engine, a second or wet compression test will help locate the leak.
Squirt about 1 tablespoon [15 cc] of engine oil through the spark-plug hole into the
cylinder. Recheck the compression.

Caution: Never perform a wet compression test on a diesel engine. The heat of a compression could
ignite the oil and damage the compression tester. Also, since the oil is not compressible, it
could fill the combustion chamber and create a hydrostatic lock. This prevents the crankshaft
from turning and may damage the engine.

If the compression pressure increases Compression Gauge Possible Engine


to a more normal value, the low Reading Condition
compression probably is due to Fails to climb during Valve sticking open
leakage past worn piston rings. all compression
Adding oil helps seal the rings strokes
20 PSI (138 kPa) Faulty rings or valve
temporarily as the cylinder holds
below normal seating
compression better. Other possible
More than 20 PSI (138 Faulty head gasket
causes are a worn piston or cylinder kPa) below normal in
wall, and rings that are broken or two cylinders next to
stuck in their piston-ring grooves. each other
20 PSI (138 kPa) Excessive carbon
If adding oil does not increase above normal buildup in
compression pressure, the leakage combustion chamber
may be past the valves. Possible Figure 4. Compression-gauge readings and the
causes include: probable engine conditions. (Ford Motor
Company)

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 5
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
1. Broken valve springs
2. Incorrect valve adjustment
3. Sticking valves, valves not seating
4. Worn or burned valves
5. Worn or burned valve seats
6. Worn camshaft lobes
7. Dished or worn valve lifters

A blown head gasket also causes a low reading during a wet compression test. The
gasket has burned away and compression pressure leaks between the cylinder block
and head. Low or no compression in two adjacent cylinders is probably due to a
blown head gasket between the two cylinders.
Whatever the cause—rings, pistons, cylinder walls, valves, gaskets—the cylinder
head must be removed to correct the trouble. The exception is an improper valve
adjustment that holds the valves slightly off their seats. Valves are adjusted with the
cylinder head in place.

4. Cylinder Leakage Tester – The cylinder


leakage tester checks compression but in
a different way. It applies air pressure to
the cylinder with the piston at TDC on the
compression stroke. In this position, the
engine valves are closed. Very little air
should escape from the cylinder if the
engine is in good condition.

To use the cylinder leakage tester:

a. Remove all spark plugs.


b. Disconnect the air cleaner.
c. Remove the oil-filter cap or dipstick. Figure 5. Cylinder leakage tester. The whistle is
d. Remove the radiator cap and fill the used to locate TDC in number 1 cylinder. (Sun
radiator to the proper level. Electric Corporation)
e. Block the throttle-wide-open.
f. Connect the adapter, with the whistle, to the spark plug hole of number 1 cylinder.
g. Crank the engine until the whistle sounds. This means number 1 piston is moving
up on the compression stroke.
h. Continue rotating the crankshaft until the TDC timing marks align.
i. Then disconnect the whistle from the adapter hose and connect the tester.
j. Apply air pressure into the cylinder. Note the gauge reading, which shows the
percentage of air leaking from the cylinder. Specifications vary, but a reading of
above 20 percent means excessive leakage.
k. Listen at the air intake, tail pipe, and oil-filter hole. If air blows-out of an adjoining
spark-plug hole, the head gasket is blown between the cylinders. If air bubbles up
through the radiator, the trouble is a blown head gasket or a cracked cylinder
block or head. Any of these conditions may allow leakage from the cylinder into
the cooling system.
l. Check the other cylinders in the same way.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 6
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
5. Engine Vacuum Gauge – The engine
vacuum gauge measures intake-
manifold vacuum. The intake-manifold
vacuum changes with the load on
engine defects. The way the vacuum
varies from normal indicates what
could be wrong inside the engine.
Before making the test, check that all
vacuum hoses are properly connected
and not leaking. Make a backpressure
test if a restricted exhaust system is
indicated.

Connect the vacuum gauge to the


intake manifold. Start the engine and
run it until it reaches normal operating
temperature. Then note the vacuum
reading at idle and other speeds, as
described below. Figure 8 shows the
meaning of various vacuum-gauge
readings. Common vacuum-gauge Figure 6. The cylinder-leakage tester applies air
readings are described below. pressure to the cylinder through the spark-plug hole
with the piston at TDC and the valves-closed. Places
where air is leaking can then be located. (Sun
Electric Corporation)

a. A steady and fairly high reading on


idle indicates normal performance.
Specifications vary with different
engines. A reading between 17 and
22 inches (432 and 599 mm) of
mercury usually indicates normal
engine operation. The reading will
be lower at higher altitudes
because of lower atmospheric
pressure. For every 1000 feet [305
m] above sea level, the reading is Figure 7. The vacuum gauge connected to intake
reduced about 1 inch (25.4 mm] of manifold to measure intake-manifold vacuum.
mercury (Hg). (Toyota Motor Sales USA, Inc.)

Note: Inches or millimeters of mercury refers to the way the vacuum is measured. There is no mercury in the
gauge. The readings compare with the changes that a vacuum would produce on a column of mercury in a
barometer. Figure 9 shows the relationship among the various measurements of vacuum and pressure.
Reading Diagnosis
b. A steady and low reading on idle Average and Everything is
indicates less ignition or valve steady at 17- normal.
22.
timing, or possibly leakage past the
piston rings. This excessive blowby
could be due to worn or stuck piston

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 7
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
rings, or worn cylinder walls or Air leak at the
pistons. Any of these reduces Extremely low intake
engine power. With less power, the reading— manifold or
needle holds throttle body;
engine does not develop or “pull” as steady. incorrect
much vacuum. timing.
c. A steady and very low reading on Idle mixture
idle indicates the air leak at the needs
Needle
intake manifold or throttle body. The fluctuating
adjustment,
leak could be around the throttle spark-plug
between high
gap too
shaft. Air leakage into the intake and low
narrow,
manifold reduces vacuum and reading.
valves
engine power. Incorrect timing may sticking open.
also cause this condition. Idle mixture
needle
Needle
Note: Some engines with high-lift cams and adjustment,
fluctuates very
longer valve overlap have a lower and more spark-plug
slowly,
uneven intake manifold vacuum. Also, some gap too
ranging 4 or 5
emission-control systems lower intake-manifold narrow,
points.
vacuum. valves
sticking open.
d. A reading that varies rapidly— Needle
fluctuating
increasing with engine speed— rapidly at idle Worn valve
between 10 and 22 inches (254 and —steadies as guides
599 mm) indicates a weak or broken RPM is
valve spring. increased
e. A reading that drops back to zero as Needle drops
engine speed increases indicates a to low reading,
resume to Burned or
restricted exhaust system. normal , drops leaking
f. Regular dropping back of the needle back, etc., at a valves.
indicates a valve that is burned or regular
sticking open, or a spark plug not interval.
firing.
g. Irregular dropping back of the Needle drops
Restricted
needle indicates valves that are to zero as
exhaust
engine RPM is
sticking open only part of the time. increased.
system.
h. Floating motion or slow back-and-
forth movement of the needle
indicates that the air-fuel mixture is
too rich.
Needle holds Late ignition
steady at 12 to or valve
On some engines, a vacuum-gauge quick 16—drops to 0 timing,
test can be made fro loss of compression and back to leaking piston
due to leakage around the piston. This about 21 as rings. Check
would result from worn piston rings, throttle is with
pistons, or cylinder walls. Race the engine opened and compression
released. test.
and then quickly release the throttle. The
needle should swing around to 23 to 25
inches (584 to 635 mm) as the throttle
closes. This indicates good compression. If Figure 8. Vacuum-gauge readings and their
meanings.
the needle fails to swing this far, there is
compression loss.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 8
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
Note: Some V-type engines have a split intake manifold with no passage between the two sections. On
these engines, connect the vacuum gauge to each section and note the readings.

Another test using the vacuum pump is the cranking vacuum test. With the engine at
normal operating temperature, close the throttle valve and plug the PCV line. Disable
the ignition and crank the engine. An even cranking vacuum at normal cranking
speed indicates the engine is mechanically sound. Unevenness in the needle
movement indicates an air leak in one or more cylinders.

6. Exhaust Gas Analyzer – The exhaust


gas analyzer measures the amount of
various gases in the exhaust. There are
two main types:
a. Two-gas analyzer that measures HC
and CO.
b. Four-gas analyzer that measures HC,
CO, O2 and CO2

The purpose of making these


measurements is to help determine the
condition of the engine, ignition system,
fuel system and emission controls. On a
car with a catalytic converter, tail pipe
readings made with a two-gas analyzer
are often of little value. Normal action of
the catalyst reduces the HC and CO
nearly to zero.
Four-gas analyzers provide more
complete analysis of the tail pipe exhaust
gas. Carbon dioxide (CO2) and oxygen
(O2) in the exhaust gas from the cylinder Figure 9. Four-gas type of exhaust-gas analyzer
pass unchanged through the catalytic connected to tailpipe to test the exhaust gas.
converter. Measuring these gases at the (ATW)
tail pipe gives a more complete picture of
the air-fuel mixture entering the cylinder
and the combustion process.
To use the exhaust-gas analyzer, block
off the air flow from the air-injection or
air-aspirator system. This prevents the
additional air from affecting the readings.
Insert the exhaust-gas pickup or probe
into the tail pipe of the car. The probe
draws out some of the exhaust gas and
carries it through the analyzer. Meters, a
display, or a printout show how much of Figure 10. Two-gas type of exhaust-gas analyzer,
each gas in the sample of exhaust gas. which measures only hydrocarbons (HC) and
carbon monoxide (CO). (Chrysler Corporation)

A different kind of tester measures NOx but it works in almost the same way. It draws
exhaust gas from the tail pipe and runs the gas through the analyzer. The finding is
reported in grams per mile. NO testers are usually only in testing laboratories. They
are not normally in automotive-service work.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 9
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
When testing exhaust emissions, follow the tester-manufacturer’s operating
instructions. Figure 11 shows suggested testing specifications. Take the readings
with the engine idling at normal operating temperature. Repeat the tests with the
engine running at 1500 rpm and 2500 rpm.

Note: An exhaust gas analyzer can also be used to check for exhaust-gas leakage
into the cooling system. Figure 11 shows the exhaust-gas analyzer being used to
locate fuel or fuel-vapor leaks.

7. Four-Gas Analysis – Combustion at


the stoichiometric ratio of 14.7:1
provides maximum conversion
efficiency. This results in minimum tail
pipe emissions of HC and CO. Figure
12 shows the relationship among the
four gases measured by the four-gas Figure 11. Suggested test specifications for testing
analyzer. Each gas and its readings exhaust emissions.
are described below.

HC Readings. The HC meter reports


the amount of hydrocarbon (unburned
gasoline) in the exhaust. It reports this
as parts per million (ppm). A reading of
200 means that every million parts of
exhaust gas has 200 parts of HC. The
exhaust gas of newer cars has less
than 100 ppm of HC. Older vehicles
are much higher emitters. Even in
good condition they may emit 400 ppm
or more. High HC could result from
trouble in the emission controls, or fuel
or ignition system. The air-fuel mixture
could be rich (or lean so there is
misfiring). The ignition system may be
out of time or misfiring. An engine with
worn rings and cylinders, burned
valves, or a blown head gasket emits
high levels of HC.

CO Readings. Carbon monoxide is a


by-product of combustion. The amount
of CO is measured as a percentage by
volume. One percent means that one Figure 12. Relationship among the four gases
percent of the exhaust gas is CO. measured by the four-gas analyzer. (Sun
ElectricCorporation)
Some automotive engines produce less tha 0.5 percent CO. A rich mixture or not
enough oxygen to burn the fuel produces excessive CO. Possible causes are
misfiring, a restricted air filter, and a leaking fuel injector or carburetor needle-end-
seat.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 10
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
CO2 Readings. Carbon dioxide is a product of combustion that is measured as a
percentage by volume. HC must burn to produce CO 2. Any change in the air-fuel ratio
and the combustion process causes a change in CO 2. Normally, CO2 is above eight
percent. The highest CO2 reading occurs at about the 14.7:1 stoichiometric air-fuel
ratio. Low CO2 readings indicate a rich mixture.

O2 Readings. These measure the percentage of oxygen remaining in the exhaust gas
after combustion has occurred. The air we breathe is about 21 percent oxygen. At
idle, the engine should produce less than three percent O 2. If the engine is running
richer than 14.7:1, O2 is low. As the air-fuel mixture becomes leaner than 14.7:1, O 2
increases. When lean mixture occurs, O2 increases greatly.

8. Cylinder-Balance Test – The cylinder –


balance test determines if each cylinder
in a running engine produces the same
amount of power. Disabling a cylinder
should cause a change in engine speed.
The change should be about the same
for all cylinders.
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
Then disable the cylinder. This is done
by shorting the spark plug or
disconnecting each fuel injector in a port-
injected engine. Note the tach reading.
Repeat the test on each cylinder. All
cylinders are contributing the same
amount of power if the rpm drops are the
Figure 13. All cylinders are contributing to the
same. Weaker cylinders show less of same amount of power if the tachometer shows
rpm change. Shorting or disabling a dead that all rpm drops are the same as each cylinder is
cylinder causes no change in rpm. disabled. (Sun Electric Corporation)

On some engines the ECM can run the cylinder-balance test automatically and store
the results. The technician signals the ECM to begin the test. The ECM then turns off
the fuel injector to each cylinder and measures engine rpm. This process repeats
until testing is completed.
Cylinder-balance testing can also be performed while watching the readings on a
four-gas analyzer. This may help diagnose the cause of a cylinder delivering low or
no power.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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9. Engine Analyzer – An engine analyzer
combines several testers, meters and
gauges into a single piece of portable
shop equipment. When connected to the
vehicle, the analyzer provides quick and
accurate testing and diagnosis of various
engine and vehicle systems. Most shop
engine analyzers include an
oscilloscope. It displays voltage patterns
of the ignition system and electronic fuel
injectors. Some computerized analyzers
include a second screen. This displays
information needed by the technician,
such as steps in a test procedure or the
test results. The analyzer may have a
printer to provide a written report.

Figure 14. Engine analyzer that includes an


oscilloscope for displaying ignition voltages. (Sun
Electric Corporation)

Figure 15. Computerized engine analyzer with two scope screens and a printer. (Sun Electric Corporation)

10. Service-Bay Diagnostic Computer – Some new-car dealerships and other service-bay
diagnostic computer in Figure 15. This is a computerized engine-and-exhaust gas
analyzer with additional capabilities. Ideally, the system enables the vehicle to tell the

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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computer what is wrong. Then the system instructs the technician on how to make
the needed repairs.
Many of these computers have a touch-sensitive screen. The technician first enters
the vehicle identification number then the technician answers a series of yes-no
questions about how the vehicle is equipped. The technician connects the computer
to the diagnostic connector on the vehicle. The computer then:
1. Automatically performs the test.
2. Interprets the results.
3. Shows the technician how to correct the faults.
In a dealership, the computer may automatically go online every night. This means
the computer connects itself through a phone line or satellite link to the vehicle-
manufacturer’s host computer. The host computer then sends or downloads the latest
information on:
 Factory product changes
 Diagnosis and repair techniques
 Vehicle specifications
 Service manual information
 Service bulletin summaries

During this same connection, the dealership computer sends or uploads information
fed into it during the day to the host computer. This provides overnight data exchange
of the latest service information between the dealer and the manufacturer. Similar
systems are available to independent shops. To provide the capabilities listed above,
the computer must store a wide range of service information. This information must
be quickly accessible and easily updated. Many computers store data on a compact
disc (CD), similar to the audio CD. When new information is needed, the technician
replaces the disc.

11. Dynamometer – the chassis dynamometer measures engine power and vehicle
speed under various operating conditions. The vehicle is driven onto two rollers so
the drive wheels can spin the rollers. The rollers drive a power absorber which is
usually under the floor. The vehicle remains stationary, but the engine and other
components operate the same as on a road test. Meters on a console report wheel
speed and torque or power.
The power absorber may be a heavy metal flywheel with an inertia weight, the same
as the weight of the vehicle. Or the power absorber may be a brake that places a
variable load on the rollers. The technician can connect an oscilloscope and a variety
of other testers to check the engine under operating conditions. When the vehicle is
driven on the dynamometer, the test instruments show engine performance while
idling, accelerating, cruising and decelerating. Shift points and other operating
conditions of an automatic transmission can also be checked.
Special dynamometers with two sets of rollers test all-wheel-drive vehicles.
Diagnostic dynamometers have sensitive motored rollers that may allow testing of
wheel alignment, suspension, steering and brakes.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Engine Tuneup and Car Care

Definition of a tuneup

An engine tuneup restores drivability, power, performance and economy that have
been lost through wear, corrosion and deterioration of engine parts. These changes take
place gradually in many parts through time and mileage. This means the parts are
affected by normal aging of the vehicle (time) and by normal vehicle operation (mileage).
A tuneup means different things to different people. To some, it means a quick check of
the usual engine trouble spots. To others, it means using test instruments to do a
complete analysis of the engine and its systems. Then all worn parts are repaired or
replaced and everything is adjusted to specifications.

Tuneup Procedure:

An engine tuneup follows a procedure. Many technicians use a printed form supplied
by automotive or test-equipment manufacturers. By following the form and checking off
the items listed, one by one, the technician avoid overlooking any test in the procedure.

All tuneup forms are not the same. The procedure to follow depends on the vehicle
and the engine as well as the shop equipment available. If the shop has an oscilloscope
or a dynamometer, use it as part of the tuneup procedure.

Typical Tuneup Procedure

The steps in a typical tuneup procedure are given below. All steps do not apply to all
vehicles or to all engines.

1. Test and service the battery and starting motor. If the battery is low or the
customer complains that the battery keeps running down, check the charging
system. If the battery is defective. Install a new battery.
2. Inspect the drive belts. Replace any that are in poor condition. Replace both belts
in a two-V-belt set. Tighten the belts to the specified tension using a belt tension
gauge.
3. If the engine is cold, operate it for at least 20 minutes at 1500 rpm or until the
engine reaches normal operating temperature. Note any problems during warm-
up.
4. Connect the engine analyzer or oscilloscope and perform an electrical diagnosis.
Check for any abnormal ignition-system condition and the cylinder in which it
occurs.
5. Perform a comparison test. If necessary, perform a cylinder-leakage test and
engine vacuum tests. These provide additional information on engine condition. If
mechanical problems are found, tell the owner the engine cannot be tuned
satisfactorily until after it is repaired.
6. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the firing ends. Gap and install new spark
plugs. If reinstalling the old plugs, first clean, inspect, file, gap, and test them.
7. Inspect the ignition system. Look for the cause of any abnormal conditions seen
with the engine analyzer or oscilloscope. Check the condition of the distributor
cap, rotor and primary and secondary wiring. Replace any defective parts. On
contact-point ignition systems, clean and adjust (or replace) the contact points.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Lubricate the distributor cam. Check the centrifugal and vacuum advance devices.
Adjust the ignition timing.
8. Recheck the ignition system with the oscilloscope. Any abnormal condition noted
earlier should now be gone.
9. Check the manifold heat-control valve. If used, it should move freely. Lubricate it
with heat-control-valve lubricant. Free or replace the valve, if necessary.
10. Test the fuel pump with a fuel-pump tester. Replace the fuel filter. Check the fuel-
tank cap, fuel lines and connections for leakage and damage.
11. Clean or replace the air-cleaner filter. If the engine has a thermostatic air cleaner,
check the operation of the vacuum motor.
12. Check the action of the throttle valves. Push the accelerator pedal to the floor to
be sure the throttle valves open fully. Check carburetor choke and fast-idle
systems, if used. Clean external linkages and check for binding.
13. Inspect all engine vacuum fittings, hoses and connections. Replace any brittle or
cracked hoses.
14. Clean the engine oil-filler cap, Inspect the conditions of its gasket or seal.
15. Check the cooling system. If necessary, fill it to the proper level with the specified
coolant. Check that the coolant contains the proper amount of antifreeze for
adequate freeze protection. Drain and install fresh coolant, if required by the
vehicle maintenance schedule. Inspect all hoses, connections, radiator, water
pump and fan clutch or electric fan. Pressure-check the cooling system and
radiator cap. Squeeze the hoses to check their condition. Replace any defective
hoses or other parts.
16. Inspect the PCV system. Check and replace the PCV valve if necessary. Clean
and replace the PCV-system air filter if required. Inspect the PCV hoses and
connections. Replace any cracked or brittle hoses. Test the system for crankcase
vacuum.
17. If the engine has an air-injection pump, replace the pump inlet-air filter, if used.
Inspect the system hoses and connections. Replace any brittle or cracked hoses.
18. If the evaporative-control system uses an air filter in the charcoal canister, replace
the filter.
19. Check the transmission-controlled spark (TCS) system, if the vehicle is so
equipped.
20. Inspect the EGR valve. Clean or replace it, as required. Inspect and clean the
EGR discharge port. Test system operation by applying vacuum to the valve with
the engine idling. The engine should run rough with vacuum applied then smooth
out with no vacuum.
21. Adjust the engine valves, if necessary. Some manufacturers recommend
performing this step first in the tuneup procedure.
22. Adjust the engine idle speed. Check the amount of HC and CO in the exhaust
gas. (Checking the HC and CO both before and after tuneup shows how much the
tuneup has reduced these pollutants.) If required, adjust the idle mixture (where
possible). Follow the procedure outlined on the VECI label in the engine
compartment.
23. If the engine has a turbocharger, check the wastegate operation. Follow the
procedure in the vehicle service manual.
24. Tighten the intake-manifold and exhaust-manifold bolts to the specified torque in
the proper sequence.
25. Check the maintenance sticker or the lubrication schedule to see if an oil and oil-
filter change are due. Also note the schedule for chassis lubrication. Recommend
the services due to the vehicle owner.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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26. While the car is on the lift, check the exhaust system for leaks. These could admit
deadly carbon monoxide (CO) into the passenger compartment. Also look for
loose bolts, rust spots and heat-shield and other under-car damage.
27. Roadtest the car on a dynamometer or on the road. Check the driveability, power
and idling. Check for driveability, power and idling. Any abnormal condition now
may require additional checking and service to other parts or systems. Always
note any uncorrected abnormal condition on the repair order before returning the
car to the customer. If possible, explain the notes on the repair order to the
customer. Conditions that affect emissions, fuel economy, reliability and safety
may need immediate attention.

Steps in Vehicle Maintenance

1. Before roadtesting the car, check the tires for specified inflation pressure and
for abnormal wear. Abnormal wear would mean suspension trouble and the
need for wheel alignment.
2. Check for proper operation of the instruments-panel warning lights, gauges,
and information displays.
3. Check the brakes for even and adequate braking.
4. Check the steering system for ease and smoothness of operation. Check for
excessive play in the steering system.
5. Check the suspension system for looseness, excessive play and wear. Check
the front-suspension ball joints for excessive wear. Check for loose wheel
bearings at the non-driving wheels. Adjust the wheel bearings if necessary.
6. Check the CV joints for noise and smooth operation. If a CV-joint boot is torn,
check for grit in the grease and for joint wear.
7. Check the operation of the clutch and manual transmission or transaxle. Note
the shift timing and shift quality in a vehicle with an automatic transmission or
transaxle.
8. Note any unusual noise, vibrations or hardness heard or felt during the road
test.
9. Check the headlights and horns to make sure they work. Check all other lights.
Replace burned-out bulbs. Check headlights aim, if necessary.

The preceding list of steps for tuneup and car care covers conditions that frequently
need service or cause trouble. When performed as a complete procedure, These
steps will locate many abnormal conditions that affect drivability and performance.
Correcting these conditions will improve vehicle performance and reliability.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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SELF-CHECK

Multiple-Choice Test

Select the correct answer to each question.

1. When connected to the engine, the tachometer measures


a. engine torque
b. engine rpm
c. engine compression
d. engine vacuum

2. After the engine is at normal operating temperature, the first step in using the
compression tester is to:
a. disconnect the battery
b. adjust engine idle
c. remove the spark plugs
d. shift the transmission into low gear

3. The purpose of squirting a small amount of oil through the spark-plug hole while
compression-testing the cylinder is to
a. lubricate the piston rings
b. see if the compression pressure increases
c. measure manifold vacuum
d. make it easier to install the spark plugs

4. If squirting engine oil through the spark-plug hole does not increase compression
pressure, all the following could be the cause except
a. leakage past the valves
b. a broken valve spring
c. worn camshaft lobe
d. worn oil-control rings

5. A compression test on an in-line six-cylinder engine shows that cylinders 3 and 4


have readings of 10 psi [69 kPa]. The other cylinders all read between 130 and
135 psi [897 and 892 kPa]. Technician A says this is probably due to a blown
head gasket. Technician B says the cause could be improper valve timing. Who is
right
a. A only
b. B only
c. both A and B
d. neither A nor B

6. The cylinder leakage tester applies air pressure to the cylinder with the piston
a. at TDC with both valves closed
b. at BDC with both valves closed
c. starting the compression stroke
d. at TDC with both valves open

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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7. A vacuum-gauge needle that swings around to 23 to 25 inches [584 to 635 mm] of
mercury after the throttle is quickly opened and released indicates
a. stuck valves
b. low compression
c. good compression
d. leaky valves

8. A steady but low vacuum reading with no engine idling indicates that the engine
a. is losing power
b. has a stuck valve
c. exhaust system is restricted
d. ignition timing is advanced

9. Technician A says to use tail pipe measurements of HC and CO to check the


operation of the catalytic converter. Technician B says tail pipe measurements of
O2 and CO2 indicate the air-fuel ratio of the mixture entering the cylinder. Who is
right?
a. A only
b. B only
c. both A and B
d. neither A nor B

10. A service-bay diagnostic computer may do the following except


a. automatically perform tests
b. interpret the results
c. show how to correct faults
d. grade the technician’s work

Review Questions

1. What can be learned by making a cylinder-balance test?


2. Where does a service-bay diagnostic computer get information and how is this
information updated?
3. What is a chassis dynamometer used for and what can its use tell the technician?
4. What is a tuneup and how is it performed?
5. What record should the technician make of any abnormal condition found
during the roadtest?

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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QUALIFICATION : Automotive Servicing NC I

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Perform Gas Engine Tune Up

MODULE TITLE : Tuning Up Gasoline Engine

LEARNING OUTCOME 1 : Check/adjust tappet valve clearance

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Valve tappet clearance is set.

2. Checking and adjustment is performed.

RESOURCES:

1. Auto Mechanics, Theory and Service


by: de Kryger, Kobacik. Bono

2. Corolla, Service and Repair Manual


2 by: Gregory’s Scientific Publication
3
3. Lancer, Service and Repair Manual
by: Gregory’s Scientific Publication

4. Toyota Training Manual


by: Toyota

5. VHS/CD

6. Corolla, Owners Manual


by: Toyota

7. Communication Module

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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LEARNING EXPERIENCES

Learning Outcome # 1: Check/adjust valve tappet clearance

Learning Activities Special Instructions

1. Perform checking/adjustment of valve  Follow the procedures in Operation


tappet on a gasoline engine with the Sheet LO1-1 “Check/Adjust Valve
presence of your instructor. Tappet Clearance”.

2. Check your knowledge and skill in this  Complete the assessment tasks.
learning outcome.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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LO1 - CHECK/ADJUST VALVE TAPPET CLEARANCE
LEARNING OUTCOME 1:

At the end of this learning activity you should be able to check and adjust valve
tappet clearance of a gasoline engine.

TOOLS, EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS:

 Running condition engine


 Flat screwdriver
 Service manual
 Set of wrenches
 Spark plug wrench
 Feeler gauge

LEARNING ACTIVITIES:

Activity # 1: Adjusting engine valve tappet clearance

Do you know the correct valve tappet clearance?

a. Read Operation Sheet LO1-1, and then answer these questions.

 What would result if the valve tappet clearance is insufficient?


 What would happen when the clearance is too much?

b. Perform checking/adjustment of valve tappet on a gasoline engine with the


presence of your instructor.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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OPERATION SHEET LO1-1: ADJUSTING VALVE TAPPET CLEARANCE

Adjust tappet clearance according to specifications. Correct clearance contributes to


quiet engine operation and long valve seat wear. Insufficient clearance causes the valve
to ride open, resulting in lost compression and burning. Too much clearance retards
timing and shortens valve life above seat preventing maximum intake and exhaust.
Check tappet guide clearance. Sloppy fit permits tappet to strike valve stem off-center,
causing side thrust on valve stem with excessive wear and bad seating.

The valve tappets are removable. These


large, barrel shaped, pressure lubricated
tappets are so designed that by removing
the adjusting screw, the main body can
be lifted out and replaced from above
through the valve chamber. This
eliminates the costly service operation of
dropping the oil pan and pulling the
camshaft. Locking of the adjustment is
both simple and effective. Accurate valve
tappet settings materially prolong engine
life and aid performance. In addition to
impairing performance, excessive
clearances are harmful to cams and
tappets as well as to the rest of the valve
mechanism. When clearances are too
low, the possibility of burned valves
increases. Figure LO1-1. Removable Valve Tappet

Check and adjust intake and exhaust


tappets to following clearances at normal
operating temperature:

Intake - .012"
Exhaust - .020"

Procedures in adjusting valve tappet


clearance:

1. Disconnect and ground the high


tension coil wire to prevent
accidentally starting the engine.

Figure LO1-2. Disconnect high tension coil wire.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 22
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2. Remove the valve tappet cover from
the left side of the crankcase.

Figure LO1-3. Remove valve tappet cover.

3. Remove the spark plug from number


one cylinder.

4. Place thumb over the spark plug


opening and slowly crank the engine
until an outward pressure can be felt.
Pressure indicates number one piston
is moving toward Top Dead Center of
the compression stroke. Continue
cranking until the timing mark on the
flywheel is in center of the flywheel
housing timing hole. Both valves are Figure LO1-4. Remove #1 spark plug.
then closed on the compression stroke
of number one cylinder.

5. Use two thin wrenches when adjusting


valve clearance. Use the lower wrench
to hold the tappet and the upper
wrench to raise or lower the tappet
adjusting screw. When the valve lash
is properly adjusted, the appropriate
feeler gauge should pass between the
tappet and its corresponding valve
stem with a slight drag Figure LO1-5. Adjusting valve tappet clearance

6. Crank the engine one-half revolution


at a time and check the clearance of
each valve; adjust if necessary. Do
this on each set of cylinder valves in
succession according to the firing
order of the engine, which is 1-3-4-2.

Figure LO1-6. Checking the valve clearances.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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ALT723302 March 4, 2006
7. Install new gasket and install valve
tappet cover. Check to see that the
valve cover makes an oil- tight seal
with the crankcase.

Figure LO1-7. New gaskets.

8. Replace the spark plug, spark plug wire and coil wire.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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ASSESSMENT TASKS:

These assessment tasks should be completed when you are confident that you can
adjust valve tappet clearance of a gasoline engine. Assessment needs to conform to the
rules of evidence. Therefore:

 You will need to participate and complete the learning activities

 You will demonstrate tasks to the required standard

 You will answer oral and written questions

 You will complete the assessment tool

OBSERVATION CHECKLIST:

Trainer’s check
Self
Component Competent Not yet
check
competent
High tension coil wire is disconnected and
properly grounded.

Valve tappet cover is removed properly

Spark plugs are removed properly.

Engine is adjusted to TDC, timing marks

Valve tappet clearance is set.

Checking and adjustment is performed.

Tools are properly used and stored.

Work area is cleaned.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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QUALIFICATION : Automotive Servicing NC I

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Perform Gas Engine Tune Up

MODULE TITLE : Tuning Up Gasoline Engine

LEARNING OUTCOME 2 : Test spark plug

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Spark plug clearance is adjusted.

2. Spark plug is tested.

3. Spark plug test result analyzed and appropriate recommendations are


prescribed

RESOURCES:

1. Auto Mechanics, Theory and Service


by: de Kryger, Kobacik. Bono

2. Corolla, Service and Repair Manual


4 by: Gregory’s Scientific Publication
5
3. Lancer, Service and Repair Manual
by: Gregory’s Scientific Publication

4. Toyota Training Manual


by: Toyota

6. VHS/CD

6. Corolla, Owners Manual


by: Toyota

7. Communication Module

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 26
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
LEARNING EXPERIENCES

Learning Outcome # 2: Test spark plug

Learning Activities Special Instructions

1. Define the purpose and functions of  Read Information Sheet LO2-1 “Spark
the spark plug. Identify the conditions Plug Overview”
that affect spark plug operation.

2. Identify defects of used spark plugs.  Read Information Sheet LO2-2


Compare with actual spark plugs in “Reading and Understanding Spark
your shop. Plugs”

3. Perform gapping of spark plugs.  Follow the procedures in Operation


Sheet LO2-1.

4. Check your knowledge and skill in this  Complete the assessment tasks.
learning outcome.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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LO2 - TEST SPARK PLUG
LEARNING OUTCOME 2:

At the end of this learning activity you should be able to adjust spark plug
clearance and test it on a gasoline engine.

TOOLS, EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS:

 Running condition engine


 Vehicle service/repair manual
 Spark plug socket wrench (magnetic) and handle
 Wire gauge, ramp gauge or feeler gauge
 Ignition spark tester
 Spark plug tester

LEARNING ACTIVITIES:

Activity # 1: Inspect and test spark plug

a. Read Information Sheets LO2-1 and LO2-2 and perform the following:

 Inspect spark plugs removed from a vehicle?


 Test the serviceability of spark plug using a spark plug tester?

b. Perform adjustment/testing of spark plug on a gasoline engine with the


presence of your instructor.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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INFORMATION SHEET LO2-1: Spark Plugs Overview

Spark plugs are one of the most misunderstood components of an engine. Numerous
questions have surfaced over the years, leaving many people confused.
This guide was designed to assist the technician, hobbyist, or race mechanic in
understanding, using, and troubleshooting spark plugs. The information contained in this
guide applies to all types of internal combustion engines: two stroke engines, rotary
engines, high performance/racing engines and street vehicles.
Spark plugs are the "window" into your engine (your only eyewitness to the combustion
chamber), and can be used as a valuable diagnostic tool. Like a patient's thermometer,
the spark plug displays symptoms and conditions of the engine's performance. The
experienced tuner can analyze these symptoms to track down the root cause of many
problems, or to determine air/fuel ratios.

SPARK PLUG BASICS:

The spark plug has two primary functions:


 To ignite the air/fuel mixture
 To remove heat from the combustion chamber
Spark plugs transmit electrical energy that turns fuel into working energy. A sufficient
amount of voltage must be supplied by the ignition system to cause it to spark across the
spark plug's gap. This is called "Electrical Performance."
The temperature of the spark plug's firing end must be kept low enough to prevent pre-
ignition, but high enough to prevent fouling. This is called "Thermal Performance", and is
determined by the heat range selected.
It is important to remember that spark plugs do not create heat, they can only remove
heat. The spark plug works as a heat exchanger by pulling unwanted thermal energy
away from the combustion chamber, and transferring the heat to the engine's cooling
system. The heat range is defined as a plug's ability to dissipate heat.
The rate of heat transfer is determined by:
 The insulator nose length
 Gas volume around the insulator nose
 The materials/construction of the center electrode and porcelain insulator

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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A spark plug's heat range has no relationship to the actual voltage transferred though the
spark plug. Rather, the heat range is a measure of the spark plug's ability to remove heat
from the combustion chamber. The heat range measurement is determined by several
factors; the length of the ceramic center insulator nose and its' ability to absorb and
transfer combustion heat, the material composition of the insulator and center electrode
material.
Heat rating and heat flow path of NGK Spark Plugs

The insulator nose length is the distance from the firing tip of the insulator to the point
where insulator meets the metal shell. Since the insulator tip is the hottest part of the
spark plug, the tip temperature is a primary factor in pre-ignition and fouling. Whether the
spark plugs are fitted in a lawnmower, boat, or a race car, the spark plug tip temperature
must remain between 500C-850°C. If the tip temperature is lower than 500°C, the
insulator area surrounding the center electrode will not be hot enough to burn off carbon
and combustion chamber deposits. These accumulated deposits can result in spark plug
fouling leading to misfire. If the tip temperature is higher than 850°C the spark plug will
overheat which may cause the ceramic around the center electrode to blister and the
electrodes to melt. This may lead to pre-ignition/detonation and expensive engine
damage. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one heat range to the next is
the ability to remove approximately 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber. A
projected style spark plug firing tip temperature is increased by 10°C to 20°C.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Tip Temperature and Firing End Appearance

The firing end appearance also depends on the spark plug tip temperature. There are
three basic diagnostic criteria for spark plugs: good, fouled and overheated. The
borderline between the fouling and optimum operating regions (500&def;C) is called the
spark plug self-cleaning temperature. The temperature at this point is where the
accumulated carbon and combustion deposits are burned off.
Bearing in mind that the insulator nose length is a determining factor in the heat range of
a spark plug, the longer the insulator nose, the less heat is absorbed, and the further the
heat must travel into the cylinder head water journals. This means the plug has a higher
internal temperature, and is said to be a hot plug. A hot spark plug maintains a higher
internal operating temperature to burn off oil and carbon deposits, and has no
relationship to spark quality or intensity.
Conversely, a cold spark plug has a shorter insulator nose and absorbs more
combustion chamber heat. This heat travels a shorter distance, and allows the plug to
operate at a lower internal temperature. A colder heat range is necessary when the
engine is modified for performance, subjected to heavy loads, or is run at high rpms for a
significant period of time. The colder type removes heat more quickly, and will reduce the
chance of pre-ignition/detonation and melting or damage to the firing end. (Engine
temperature can affect the spark plug's operating temperature, but not the spark plugs
heat range).
Below is a list of some of the possible external influences on a spark plug's operating
temperatures. The following symptoms or conditions may have an effect on the actual
temperature of the spark plug. The spark plug cannot create these conditions, but it must
be able to cope with the levels of heat...if not, the performance will suffer and engine
damage can occur.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Air/Fuel Mixtures seriously affect engine performance and spark plug operating
temperatures.
 Rich air/fuel mixtures cause tip temperature to drop, causing fouling and poor
driveability
 Lean air/fuel mixtures cause plug tip and cylinder temperature to increase,
resulting in pre-ignition, detonation, and possibly serious spark plug and engine
damage
 It is important to read spark plugs many times during the tuning process to
achieve the optimum air/ fuel mixture
Higher Compression Ratios/Forced Induction will elevate spark plug tip and in-
cylinder temperatures
 Compression can be increased by performing any one of the following
modifications:
 
a) reducing combustion chamber volume (i.e.: domed pistons, smaller chamber
heads, milling heads, etc.)
 
b) adding forced induction (Nitrous, Turbocharging or Supercharging)
 
c) camshaft change
 As compression increases, a colder heat range plug, higher fuel octane, and
careful attention to ignition timing and air/fuel ratios are necessary. Failure to
select a colder spark plug can lead to spark plug/engine damage
Advancing Ignition Timing
 Advancing ignition timing by 10° causes tip temperature to increase by approx.
70°-100° C
Engine Speed and Load
 Increases in firing-end temperature are proportional to engine speed and load.
When traveling at a consistent high rate of speed, or carrying/pushing very heavy
loads, a colder heat range spark plug should be installed
Ambient Air Temperature
 As air temperature falls, air density/air volume becomes greater, resulting in
leaner air/fuel mixtures.
 This creates higher cylinder pressures/temperatures and causes an increase in
the spark plug's tip temperature. So, fuel delivery should be increased.
 As temperature increases, air density decreases, as does intake volume, and fuel
delivery should be decreased

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Humidity
 As humidity increases, air intake volume decreases
 Result is lower combustion pressures and temperatures, causing a decrease in
the spark plug's temperature and a reduction in available power.
 Air/fuel mixture should be leaner, depending upon ambient temperature.
Barometric Pressure/Altitude
 Also affects the spark plug's tip temperature
 The higher the altitude, the lower cylinder pressure becomes. As the cylinder
temperature decreases, so does the plug tip temperature
 Many mechanics attempt to "chase" tuning by changing spark plug heat ranges
 The real answer is to adjust jetting or air/fuel mixtures in an effort to put more air
back into the engine
Types of Abnormal Combustion
Pre-ignition
 Defined as: ignition of the air/fuel mixture before the pre-set ignition timing mark
 Caused by hot spots in the combustion chamber...can be caused
(or amplified) by over advanced timing, too hot a spark plug, low octane fuel, lean
air/fuel mixture, too high compression, or insufficient engine cooling
 A change to a higher octane fuel, a colder plug, richer fuel mixture,
or lower compression may be in order
 You may also need to retard ignition timing, and check vehicle's cooling system
 Pre-ignition usually leads to detonation; pre-ignition an detonation are two
separate events
Detonation
 The spark plug's worst enemy! (Besides fouling)
 Can break insulators or break off ground electrodes
 Pre-ignition most often leads to detonation
 Plug tip temperatures can spike to over 3000°F during the combustion process (in
a racing engine)

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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 Most frequently caused by hot spots in the combustion chamber.
Hot spots will allow the air/fuel mixture to pre-ignite. As the piston is being forced
upward by mechanical action of the connecting rod, the pre-ignited explosion will
try to force the piston downward. If the piston can't go up (because of the force of
the premature explosion) and it can't go down (because of the upward motion of
the connecting rod), the piston will rattle from side to side. The resulting shock
wave causes an audible pinging sound. This is detonation.
 Most of the damage than an engine sustains when "detonating" is from excessive
heat
 The spark plug is damaged by both the elevated temperatures and the
accompanying shock wave, or concussion
Misfires
 A spark plug is said to have misfired when enough voltage has not been delivered
to light off all fuel present in the combustion chamber at the proper moment of the
power stroke (a few degrees before top dead center)
 A spark plug can deliver a weak spark (or no spark at all) for a variety of
reasons...defective coil, too much compression with incorrect
plug gap, dry fouled or wet fouled spark plugs, insufficient ignition timing, etc.
 Slight misfires can cause a loss of performance for obvious reasons (if fuel is not
lit, no energy is be-ing created)
 Severe misfires will cause poor fuel economy, poor driveability, and can lead to
engine damage
Fouling
 Will occur when spark plug tip temperature is insufficient to burn off carbon, fuel,
oil or other deposits
 Will cause spark to leach to metal shell...no spark across plug gap will cause a
misfire
 Wet-fouled spark plugs must be changed...spark plugs will not fire
 Dry-fouled spark plugs can sometimes be cleaned by bringing engine up to
operating temperature
 Before changing fouled spark plugs, be sure to eliminate root cause of fouling

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Removing the Old Spark Plugs
1. Pull the hood release lever located under the dashboard.
2. Walk around to the front of the car, reach under the hood, find the latch and squeeze
it. Open the hood.
3. Find the spark plugs, located in a row
along one side of the engine (on an in-
line four-cylinder engine) and attached to
thick wires, called spark plug wires. Cars
with V-shaped engines (which can have
four, six or eight cylinders) will have
spark plugs and spark plug wires on both
sides of the engine.
4. Change one spark plug at a time, always
putting the plug wire back on before
changing the next spark plug
Warning:
Change one spark plug at a time, putting the wire
back on after you're done. If you pull all the wires
off at once, you may put them back on the wrong
spark plugs; this changes the firing order, and
your car will run badly or not at all. If you must
take all the wires off at once, label them with
white correction fluid or with masking tape and a
marker.
5. Pull off one spark plug wire where it
attaches to the plug. There is a little
rubber boot at the plug end of the wire;
pull on this part. Pulling higher up on the
wire can damage the spark plug wire and
cause it to separate.
6. Blow or wipe away any dirt or debris
around the spark plug. You do not want
anything to fall into the cylinder while the
spark plug is out.
7. With the spark plug socket and a ratchet,
remove the spark plug by turning it in a
counterclockwise direction. You may
need an extension for your ratchet if the
spark plugs are deep-set or not directly
accessible. Ratchets with flexible heads
are especially helpful for hard-to-reach
spark plugs.
8. Check the spark plug to make sure it needs replacing. A good spark plug should be
lightly coated with greyish brown deposits. If heavy deposits are present, if the spark
plug is black or if the electrode or core nose is damaged, the plug needs to be
replaced.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 35
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
Installing spark plugs
Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly
affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark
plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat
transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to
unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage
is not far behind.
An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn
can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark
plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above
mentioned conditions can occur.
The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, otherwise you may be torquing against dirt or
debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued, even though your torque wrench says otherwise. Of
course, you should only install spark plugs in a cool engine, because metal expands when its hot and installation may
prove difficult. Proper torque specs for both aluminum and cast iron cylinder heads are listed below.
Cast Iron Aluminum
Spark plug type Thread Diameter Cylinder Head Cylinder Head
(lb-ft.) (lb-ft.)
Flat seat type (with
18 ø mm 25.3~32.5 25.3~32.5
gasket)
" 14 ø mm 18.0~25.3 18.0~21.6
" 12 ø mm 10.8~18.0 10.8~14.5
" 10 ø mm 7.2~10.8 7.2~8.7
" 8 ø mm -- 5.8~7.2
Conical seat type
18 ø mm 14.5~21.6 14.5~21.6
(without gasket)
Conical seat type
14 ø mm 10.8~18.0 7.2~14.5
(without gasket)

Steps:

1. Hand-tighten each spark plug in place. If you feel any resistance, stop and start over
to prevent cross-threading.
 
2. Tighten the plugs with a socket wrench until snug. Do not overtighten.
 
3. Replace the spark plug wires. Usually, you will hear a soft pop when the plug wire
snaps onto the plug.
 
4. Start the engine. Listen. If the engine runs roughly or doesn't start, make sure the
wires are pushed all the way onto the new plugs.

Note: Improperly gapped plugs will make your car run roughly, start poorly and have bad
gas mileage. Always clean the threads before installing.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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INFORMATION SHEET LO2-2: Reading and Understanding Spark Plugs

A lot can be learned about your engine condition and what it sees by properly reading
and "understanding" your spark plugs. This information sheet will show you pictures as
well as explanations on causes and effects of what you see when viewing you spark
plugs.

This spark plug is what a normal plug should look


like.
Grayish-tan to white in color indicates the plug is
operating at the proper heat range as well as
correct jetting and the cylinder is running healthy.
That vertical color band on the ceramic shows you where the
plug is indexed. Meaning that band is aimed slightly at the
exhaust valve. If the band is anywhere but here, it means that
the plug is not at it's optimum location. There is still
discussion as to whether indexing a plug is worthwhile, but on
many applications looking for that last horsepower doesn't
hurt.

Normal Condition
Excessive electrode wear, misfire during
acceleration and hard starting.
Simply put as in it's description, it's worn out ... it looks ok
color wise, so replace it with same plug or at least compatible
heat range. You've all heard the term " If it works, don't fix it".
Don't look for flaws with this plug ... just blame yourself for not
changing it sooner.

Worn Out Condition

This is caused by foreign objects in the combustion


chamber or an improper plug reach where it
contacts the piston. Even a piece of carbon can do
this.
To solve this, make sure you have the correct length tip spark
plug as well as removing any foreign materials in the
combustion chamber. In some cases you may have
excessive carbon buildup on the backs of the intake valves
that will have to be addressed.

Mechanical Damage

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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In cases of severe detonation, insulators may
become cracked or chipped. Improper spark plug
gap settings will also cause the insulator tip to
crack or chip.
Detonation is tricky ... make sure that you are using the
correct octane fuel first and then verify correct ignition timing.
Next check for an inoperative EGR system (if equipped) as
well as proper function of the Knock Sensor (if equipped).
Also, you will want to make sure you are using the correct
heat range plug.

Detonation
On this symptom you will notice a chalky
appearance, white insulator, rapid electrode wear
as well as an absence of deposits. The actual shell
may also be discolored.
To cure this you must first verify that the plug is the correct
heat range, the ignition timing settings are correct, the air/fuel
mixture is not too lean, there are no vacuum leaks and that
the EGR valve (if equipped) is functioning properly.

Overheated
These are light-brownish deposits that are
encrusted to the ground and/or center electrode(s).
This situation is caused by oil and/or fuel additives.
This condition can cause misfires.
The cure for this is to verify worn valve guides or valve seals,
not using fuel additives, or you might even try changing fuel
brands. By the way, a hotter plug is what most people try to
fix this problem. You need to first understand that the plug is
NOT typically the problem.

Ash Deposits
Oily coating caused by poor oil control. Oil is
leaking past worn valve guides, piston rings, or on
some race engines a possible intake gasket leak
and then entering the combustion chamber.
Check for worn valve guides (NEVER knurl valve guides),
intake gasket sealing alignment, as well as worn cylinder
walls and piston rings. A leak down test is a good place to
start for what is causing this.

Oil Fouled

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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This will usually look as a melted center electrode
and/or ground electrode.
Check for incorrect heat range plug, over-advanced
timing, lean fuel mixtures, inoperative EGR valve or
Knock Sensor (if equipped) and also look for hot
spots or deposit accumulation inside the
combustion chamber.
If you or your engine builder took the time, all areas of
combustion chamber should have been de-burred to
eliminate this problem. This includes the sharp edges on the
chamber, piston top, and cylinder wall valve reliefs (if
applicable).
Initial Pre-ignition

This will be pretty obvious ... melted and/or missing


center and/or ground electrodes as well as a
destroyed insulator.
Check for incorrect heat range plug, over-advanced timing,
lean fuel mixtures, inoperative EGR valve or Knock Sensor (if
equipped) and also look for hot spots or deposit accumulation
inside the combustion chamber.

If you or your engine builder took the time, all areas of


combustion chamber should have been de-burred to
eliminate this problem. This includes the sharp edges on the
chamber, piston top, and cylinder wall valve reliefs (if Sustained Pre-ignition
applicable).

After you see this, you'd better look for possible internal
engine damage as well. (pistons, cylinder walls, valves, rings,
etc.)

These look as if they are small islands of


contaminants on the insulator. This is usually a
dirty carburetor bores or air intake as well as the
possibility of a dirty or faulty injector.
You must use aggressive carburetor and choke cleaner or
other solvent cleaner (a pressurized fuel injection service on
fuel injected vehicles or injector removal and cleaning) before
installing new spark plugs.

Splashed Deposits

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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This is very common visual condition on our race
engines. Soft, black, sooty, dry-looking carbon.
This indicates a rich mixture, weak ignition or
wrong heat range plug (too cold).
You will first need to verify plug heat range. On carbureted
engines, check choke as well as choke pull-off (if equipped)
for proper function and adjustment. On fuel injected engines,
check for clogged injectors and the cold-start valve and
circuit. You also need to check for correct fuel pressure
settings.

Carbon Fouled

As a general rule on all computer-controlled engines, you need to also make sure that all
input signals to the computer are working and accurate. This includes, but is not limited
to, all temperature and pressure sensors as well as the EFI system components.
Lastly on all engines, check for vacuum leaks and weak spark or low voltage output.
(Good reason for a better coil and aftermarket ignition unit "amplifier").

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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ALT723302 March 4, 2006
OPERATION SHEET LO2-1: Gapping the Spark Plug

Steps:

1. Find the chart listing the proper "gap" for your plugs in your car's repair manual. The
spark plug gap may also be on the sticker on the inside of the car's hood. The parts
store can provide you with this specification as well or read the basics below.
 
2. Insert the spark plug gapping tool in the
gap between the metal center electrode
and the metal side electrode of the
plug's tip.

3. Look at the tool's ruled edge and find


the gap's measurement. If it is too big,
bend the spark plug's end with the tool
to widen the gap. To make the gap
smaller, push the side electrode (the
metal part at the very top) against a
hard surface.

4. After adjusting, measure again. Repeat


this procedure until the gap matches
the specification listed in your car's
manual.

 
5. Repeat with each plug.

Note: Spark plug gap specifications are listed in inches and/or millimeters. The gapper
will have inches on one side and millimeters on the other.

Spark Plug Gapping Basics

Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature and on the
voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While
it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains
that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those
with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or
forced induction will typically require a smaller gap setting (to ensure ignitability in these
denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap
you will need.
A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger
the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know
that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn
efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The
added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.
 Proper gapping of the spark plug is necessary to get maximum spark energy, lowest
RFI release as well as what is best for the longevity of the secondary ignition
components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs).
Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 41
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
 When checking plug gaps, the correct way is to use ONLY wire gauges, though many
of us are using the slider style gapping tools. These flat or feeler gauge style gauges
do not accurately measure true width of spark plug gap.
 When increasing the gap size for our high performance applications utilizing
advanced ignition systems such as Mallory, Accel, Jacobs, Crane and Holley ... it is
important never to go more than plus or minus .008". This is to maintain parallel
surfaces between ground and the center electrodes.
 Something many people do not know is that with Higher Compression ratios and
Superchargers as well as Nitrous, in many cases smaller spark plug gaps must be
used as well as the use of a much hotter ignition system (see above). These higher
cylinder pressures require more energy to jump the spark plug gap.
 The rule of thumb on plug gaps is to open them up in .002" increments at a time.
When the car (race vehicle) begins to lose power or slow down then go back .
001-.002" and this in most cases is the optimum gap.
Remembering that the Ignition Unit, plug brand as well as heat range, cap and/or rotor styles and in many
cases fuel type or brand will change the optimum spark plug gap settings.
Lastly, NEVER use the porcelain insulator as a fulcrum point when setting these gaps.
This can cause damage to the spark plug.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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ASSESSMENT TASKS:

These assessment tasks should be completed when you are confident that you can
inspect/test spark plugs. Assessment needs to conform to the rules of evidence.
Therefore:

 You will need to participate and complete the learning activities

 You will demonstrate tasks to the required standard

 You will answer oral and written questions

 You will complete the assessment tool

OBSERVATION CHECKLIST:

Trainer’s check
Self
Component Competent Not yet
check
competent

Spark plugs are removed properly.

Plugs are inspected thoroughly and tested


for serviceability.
Result of inspection/testing is reported to
instructor.

Threads and plug holes are cleaned.

Spark plugs are reinstalled properly.

Tools are properly used and stored.

Work area is cleaned.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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ALT723302 March 4, 2006
QUALIFICATION : Automotive Servicing NC I

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Perform Gas Engine Tune Up

MODULE TITLE : Tuning Up Gasoline Engine

LEARNING OUTCOME 3 : Check/replace fuel filter and air cleaner

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Fuel filter and air cleaner are replaced.

2. Fuel filter is free of sediments and impurities.

RESOURCES:

1. Auto Mechanics, Theory and Service


by: de Kryger, Kobacik. Bono

2. Corolla, Service and Repair Manual


6 by: Gregory’s Scientific Publication
7
3. Lancer, Service and Repair Manual
by: Gregory’s Scientific Publication

4. Toyota Training Manual


by: Toyota

7. VHS/CD

6. Corolla, Owners Manual


by: Toyota

7. Communication Module

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 44
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
LEARNING EXPERIENCES

Learning Outcome # 3: Check/replace fuel filter and air cleaner

Learning Activities Special Instructions

1. Perform checking/replacing fuel  Follow the procedures in Operation


filter of a gasoline engine with the Sheet LO3-1 “Check/Replace Fuel
presence of your instructor. Filter”

2. Learn about fuel filters.  Read Information Sheet LO3-1 “How


Air Filter Works”

3. Perform checking/replacing air filter on  Follow the procedures in Operation


a gasoline engine with the presence Sheet LO3-2 “Check/Replace Air
of your instructor. Filter”

4. Check your knowledge and skill in this  Complete the assessment tasks.
learning outcome.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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ALT723302 March 4, 2006
LO3 - CHECK/REPLACE FUEL FILTER AND AIR
CLEANER
LEARNING OUTCOME 3:

At the end of this learning activity you should be able to check and replace fuel
filter and air cleaner of a gasoline engine.

TOOLS, EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS:

 Running condition vehicle


 Vehicle service manual
 Screwdrivers: 3/16" Slotted, #2 Phillips, #2 Phillips with minimum 8" long blade
 Wrenches: 17mm Flare nut, 19mm Flare nut, 19mm Open, 7/8" Open
 Ratchet: 3/8" with 10mm socket.
 Pliers
 New fuel filter
 New air filter
 New breather filter

LEARNING ACTIVITIES:

Activity # 1: Checking/replacing fuel filter and air cleaner

a. Read Operation Sheet LO3-1, and then perform the activity with the
presence of your instructor.

b. Read Information Sheet LO3-1.

c. Perform checking/replacing air filter on a gasoline engine with the presence


of your instructor.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 46
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
OPERATION SHEET LO3-1: Check/Replace Fuel Filter

A clogged air or fuel filter can cause poor performance, cost you at the fuel pump, and
shorten engine life. This simple procedure guards against that. A good rule of thumb is
once or twice a year, or roughly once every 12,000 miles.
Steps:
1. Rest the vehicle for 24 hours to let any remaining fuel pressure bleed off.
Check valves in the fuel lines are meant to maintain pressure to help prevent vapor lock.
2. Locate the fuel filter.
Note: The fuel filter is located on the
right side of the engine bay just in front
of the power steering fluid reservoir. To
provide room to work it is highly
recommended you remove the entire
air cleaner housing.

3. Remove the "snorkel tube" from the


front of the air cleaner housing. This is
a friction fit and if you squeeze the
sides you should be able to easily pop
it out. Undo the two clips holding the air
cleaner housing cover on and remove
the cover and air filter inside the
housing.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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4. Using the 3/8" ratchet and 10mm
socket remove the support bolt for the
left half of the air cleaner housing.
Remove the temperature sensor
connector by pushing and holding
down the metal clip and gently pulling
the connector off the back of the air
cleaner housing. The temperature
sensor will remain attached to the air
cleaner housing.

5. The mass air flow sensor has to be


rotated forward towards the front of the
car to unlock the bayonet lock that
holds the air cleaner housing and mass
air flow sensor together. To allow the
mass air flow sensor to rotate the hose
clamp holding it in position must be
loosened and the electrical connector
to the mass air flow sensor removed.
First use the 8" #2 Phillips screwdriver
to loosen the hose clamp. The clamp
can only be accessed by inserting the
screwdriver just to the right of the Idle
Speed Control unit which is located on
top of the intake manifold near the top
center of the engine bay. I was able to
use my right hand to reach around over
the top of the air cleaner housing and
use my right hand fingers to guide the
screwdriver in my left hand to the hose
clamp behind the Idle Speed Control.
Doing this also ensures the hose clamp
doesn't rotate making it very difficult to
put everything back together.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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6. Disconnect the electrical connector to
the mass air flow sensor by turning the
plastic locking ring and then gently
pulling the connector off of the mass air
flow sensor. The connector is shape
coded so you don't have to worry about
remembering proper pin alignment.

7. The mass air flow sensor can now be


rotated forward towards the front of the
car to unlock the bayonet lock between
it and the air cleaner housing. Rotate
the mass air flow sensor forward about
1 inch to completely disengage the
lock.

8. The air cleaner housing sits on two


rubber mounts. The housing can now
be lifted up about 3/4" to clear these
mounts and then it can be separated
from the mass air flow sensor. There is
a sealing gasket between the air flow
sensor and the air cleaner housing.
The gasket is held in place on the air
cleaner housing by three plastic fingers
and should not come out, but use care
to ensure the gasket isn't lost or
damaged. The last step to removing
the air cleaner housing is to disconnect
the rubber hose connected at the lower
left corner of the housing. With the air
cleaner housing in place the house
clamp is pretty well hidden behind the
forward right cylinder intake runner.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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ALT723302 March 4, 2006
By waiting until the air cleaner housing
is off of the rubber mounts and
disconnected from the mass air flow
sensor you can maneuver the air
cleaner housing and rubber hose to a
position that will allow you to loosen the
hose clamp and separate the hose
from the air cleaner housing. Removing
the air cleaner housing from the engine
bay is somewhat of a jigsaw puzzle
because of the tight fit. Be patient.

9. Now that the air cleaner housing is out


of the way there is plenty of room in
which to work. You'll need a good
supply of rags and a small can to catch
the gas that will inevitably come out of
the filter. Remove the connection near
the rear of the car first. Used a 19mm
open wrench on the filter side nut to
hold the filter steady and a 19mm flare
wrench on the fuel line nut to break the
connection. This connection was not
particularly tight and the leverage angle
of the wrenches is not too awkward.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Once the fuel line was off, enough gas
came out to fill the can up about 1/3 of
the way.

10. Theoretically, you should be able to use a 17mm and 19mm flare wrench on the
connection towards the front of the car. However, it is up underneath the front of the
engine bay and the leverage angles are awkward. After 5 minutes of grunting and
groaning with no obvious movement of the two nuts I chose a different approach.
First, loosen the fuel filter hose clamp. Then put the 17mm flare wrench on and
braced it against the side of the engine bay to hold the fuel line steady. Finally, use
the 7/8" open wrench on the nut shaped portion of the fuel filter (side facing rear of
car) where the first connection had already been undone. This allowed a much better
leverage angle on the 7/8" wrench / fuel filter. Using this method you will be able to
get the fuel filter off. However, it left the 19mm nut that was originally part of the fuel
filter connected to the 17mm fuel line nut. Also, once the fuel filter started to come
loose another 1/3 of a cup of gas came pouring out from the already open end of the
filter (like opening the vent plug of a 5 gallon gas can).
The fuel line is supported by a bracket
a few inches farther forward in the
engine bay (see previous pictures). A
few inches farther upstream from the
bracket, the metal fuel line changes to
a rubber line. By loosening the fuel line
support bracket you can now move the
fuel line into a position that you could
use the 17mm and 19mm flare
wrenches with a good leverage angle
and will be able to finally separate the
two nuts.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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11. The fuel line support bracket is freed
up by loosening a 10mm bolt in the
right rear wheel well that screws into
the six-sided plastic nut on the support
bracket (see previous pictures). One
final note, there is a black plastic offset
washer between the fuel support
bracket and the side of the engine bay.
Don't forget to put this back in place
when putting everything back together.

All that remain is to put everything back together again pretty much in the reverse order
you took it all apart. The order was:
1. Reattach the fuel line support bracket (remembering the offset plastic washer!).
2. Insert new fuel filter and attach to the forward 17mm fuel line nut. Be careful to get
the filter oriented the proper direction. There should be an arrow on the fuel filter itself
(should point to the rear of the car) and the nut arrangement between the fuel lines
and filter are one directional, but just be sure.
3. Attach the other fuel line (19mm nut).
4. Secure the fuel filter hose clamp. Mark the mileage and date on the filter for future
reference.
5. Attach the rubber hose to the lower left corner of the air cleaner housing.
6. Set the air cleaner housing onto the two lower rubber support mounts and work the
mass air flow sensor into the back of the air cleaner housing being cognizant of the
sealing gasket.
7. Rotate the mass air flow sensor to the rear of the car to re-engage the bayonet lock
between the air flow sensor and the air cleaner housing.
8. Secure the 10mm support bolt on the upper left half of the air cleaner housing.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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9. Tighten the mass air flow sensor hose clamp with the 8" #2 Phillips screwdriver. Use
your right hand to hold the clamp in place while using a screwdriver in your left hand
to tighten the hose clamp.
10. Reattach the mass air flow sensor connector and the air cleaner housing
temperature sensor connector.
11. Replace the air filter, the air cleaner housing cover and the "snorkel tube."
Finally, start the car and check for leaks. It will probably take a couple tries before the car
will start up.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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INFORMATION SHEET LO3-1: How Air Filter Works

The resin-impregnated, heat-cured "paper"


element looks like a pleated sheet, and
most of the dirt particles are stopped at the
outside surface. A light coating of dirt
actually improves the filtering ability of the
paper. But soon the dirt builds up and even
starts filling the bottoms of the pleats,
restricting airflow. The paper also has
multiple layers, and if you looked at it under
a microscope, it would look like a forest
with an irregular crisscross of vines and
limbs–the fiber strands of the "paper."

It all looks random, but the premium-priced filter "papers" are more consistent in the
sizes of the pores than it seems, and a quality material is a mathematically predictable
barrier to dirt particles. In actuality, the layers of fibers form a maze and some of the dirt
also is trapped within the layers of the paper. The inrushing air produces some static
electricity, which also causes some smaller dirt particles to adhere to the surfaces of the
paper fibers.
Air filters actually work better as the filter material fills up with debris. Holes are plugged
by fine particles, and fewer voids remain to pass other particles. But a point comes when
not enough voids remain to pass the air needed to supply your engine. The result is
inadequate oxygen to burn the fuel at wide-open throttle. With carbureted engines, this
used to mean rich running. Modern fuel-injected engines meter the air admitted to the
intake and add appropriate fuel–making for a clean-running engine that eventually won't
get out of its own way. At least carbureted cars coughed and sputtered to let you know
that you had a problem.

Metering the Air

Just downstream of the filter housing,


perhaps connected by a duct, will be the
engine's airflow meter, or sensor. (Some
engines have no airflow meter. Instead,
their computer calculates air intake using
rpm, intake vacuum and barometric
pressure.) Contamination of the airflow
meter will give your engine's computer
inaccurate information about the amount
(mass) of air the engine is burning. That
could mean poor driveability, poor mileage
and hard starting.

Some air-cleaner elements can be rotated 180


degrees to equalize dirt pickup, extending their
service life. Clean the housing's interior before
assembly.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 54
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Don't, however, try to clean the airflow sensor, save for blowing loose dirt and cobwebs
with your breath. The calibration of these instruments is fragile, and you stand a good
chance of mucking your sensor up irreparably.

Finding cracks on the Duct


Before you install the new filter, inspect the
duct from the throttle body to the filter
housing. Spread the flutes of the duct,
looking for cracks. If the duct is cracked, it
may be closed at idle but spread on
acceleration, when the engine torques.
That not only brings in unfiltered air, but on
today's engines with mass airflow sensors,
the dirty air also is "unmeasured." The
amount of fuel sprayed by the injectors is
determined by how much air is flowing in,
so if some of that airflow isn't measured by
the sensor, not enough fuel will be Check the air cleaner's ductwork for leaks and splits,
injected. The engine will run lean and especially if you're having driveability problems.
hesitate and/or stumble. The same thing Temporary repairs can be made with ordinary duct
tape.
can occur if the duct isn't properly fitted
and clamped at each end.
Find a crack? Well, it's a duct, so you can repair it with duct tape. That's a move that no
professional would make, because in time the tape will lose its grip in the heat of the
engine compartment, as the duct flexes. But it's your car, and if you are willing to recheck
and retape frequently, you can save the cost of the new part, or at least postpone the
expense.
Fit Is Important
Carefully check the fit between the lips of the housing and the rubber gasket rimming the
filter. This gasket not only seals the filter housing's two halves together, but also provides
an airtight and dirt-tight seal between the filter and the clean side of the housing. Look
carefully at the old filter's gasket. It should show a smooth, clean line 360 degrees
around at the sealing face on both sides. The rim of the filter housing will have
compressed the rubber gasket if everything is correct. If not, a little detective work is in
order. Is the filter the correct part? If not, is your replacement filter the correct part? Don't
rely on just a visual comparison–look up the correct part number and cross-reference.
Were all of the spring clamps properly latched? Some air cleaners use screws to hold
them shut, while others use a large wingnut. All of the fasteners need to be tight, even
that one you can hardly see or reach next to the battery. On a few vehicles, the housing
is attached by a bolt or spring clamp that can be removed to allow the housing to be
displaced an inch or two, permitting big, American-sized hands to fit into a narrow space.
To install the filter element, clean out the housing first, wiping the inner surface with a
cloth lightly moistened with solvent. Insert the element so it seats properly. Filters have a
specific side up or toward the throttle body, and you have to install it correctly so the end
seals line up with the shape of the housing or its cover. If they don't, you won't get a
good end seal, and incoming air may bypass the filter and allow dirt into the engine.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 55
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Buttoning Up
It's time to finish up. Install the cover or the halves of the filter housing. In addition to the
spring clips and wingnuts that hold the parts together, there also may be alignment tabs
in areas you can't reach with your fingers. Be sure the tabs are engaged as you fit the
halves together, so the two parts of the housing form an airtight joint when you turn the
wingnuts or engage the spring clips.
Be absolutely sure that both ends of any ductwork are properly sealed to both the air
cleaner body and the airflow meter or throttle body, including hose clamps or retaining
clips. Remember, that rubber hose will become soft when underhood temps rise, so don't
rely on the rubber's stiffness when it's cold.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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OPERATION SHEET LO3-2: Replacing Air Filter

Changing the air filter should be part of any major tune-up, but if you drive on dirt roads
or in other dusty conditions, you will need to replace it more frequently. On most cars,
this is a fairly simple procedure. You should change your car's air filter every 15,000
miles.

Steps:

1. Open the hood.

2. Locate your air filter, usually found on


top of the engine. On cars with
carburetors it is in a round piece of
metal about the size of a medium pizza;
fuel-injected cars have square or
rectangular air filter housings that may
be off to the side of the engine.

3. Unscrew or unclamp the top to the air


filter housing.

4. Lift out the air filter. It should be a round


or rectangular filter made of paper or
plastic, with a rubber rim.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 57
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5. Clean the area with a vacuum cleaner or seal the top of the carburetor. This will
keep debris out of the carburetor as you continue to clean the housing.

6. Clean out any dirt or bugs from the


inside of the air filter housing with a rag.
 
7. Replace the filter with a new filter.
Consult your manual to determine the
proper filter for your car.

Check your old filter element for dirt, oil or


moisture, cracks and proper sealing at the gasket.

8. Replace the cover and close the hood.

Warning: Avoid using the wrong size air filter. Your engine will run less efficiently.

Note: Reusable air filters cost more than disposable filters, but if cared for correctly, they
can last for over 50,000 miles.

Another good way to make your air filter last is to actually use a vacuum cleaner. Simply
take the filter out and with the small attachments from the vacuum, suck out the dust and
dirt. Good as new and it will make your filter last a littler longer.

 
 

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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ASSESSMENT TASKS:

These assessment tasks should be completed when you are confident that you can
check/replace fuel filter and air cleaner. Assessment needs to conform to the rules of
evidence. Therefore:

 You will need to participate and complete the learning activities

 You will demonstrate tasks to the required standard

 You will answer oral and written questions

 You will complete the assessment tool

OBSERVATION CHECKLIST:

Trainer’s check
Self
Component Competent Not yet
check
competent

Fuel and air filters are removed properly.

Fuel and air filters are inspected carefully.

Result of inspection is reported to instructor.

Engine components are cleaned.

Fuel and air filters are installed/reinstalled


properly.

Tools are properly used and stored.

Work area is cleaned.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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QUALIFICATION : Automotive Servicing NC I

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Perform Gas Engine Tune Up

MODULE TITLE : Tuning Up Gasoline Engine

LEARNING OUTCOME 4 : Test and replace ignition breaker

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Ignition breaker is tested and replaced.

2. Condenser is tested and replaced

RESOURCES:

1. Auto Mechanics, Theory and Service


by: de Kryger, Kobacik. Bono

2. Corolla, Service and Repair Manual


8 by: Gregory’s Scientific Publication
9
3. Lancer, Service and Repair Manual
by: Gregory’s Scientific Publication

4. Toyota Training Manual


by: Toyota

8. VHS/CD

6. Corolla, Owners Manual


by: Toyota

7. Communication Module

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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LEARNING EXPERIENCES

Learning Outcome # 4: Test and replace ignition breaker

Learning Activities Special Instructions

1. Perform checking/replacing  Follow the procedures in Operation


contact point and condenser of a Sheet LO4-1 “Inspect/Replace
gasoline engine in the presence of Ignition Breaker and Condenser”
your instructor.

2. Check your knowledge and skill in this  Complete the assessment tasks.
learning outcome.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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LO4 - TEST AND REPLACE IGNITION BREAKER
LEARNING OUTCOME 4:

At the end of this learning activity you should be able to inspect and replace
ignition breaker and condenser of a gasoline engine.

TOOLS, EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS:

 Running condition vehicle


 Vehicle service manual
 Screwdrivers: flat and Phillips head (magnetic)
 Dwell/tach meter
 Strobe timing light
 Wrench: 10 mm
 Feeler gauges
 New set of breaker points
 New condenser
 Grease
 Chalk

LEARNING ACTIVITIES:

Activity # 1: Test and replace ignition breaker

a. Read Operation Sheet LO4-1, and then perform the activity with the
presence of your instructor.

b. Perform testing and replacing contact breaker on a gasoline engine


with the presence of your instructor.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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OPERATION SHEET LO4-1: Testing and Replacing Ignition Breaker and
Condenser
Contact points should be replaced every 10,000 miles. It's good practice to replace the
condenser at the same time. When you replace the points, you then must check and, if
necessary, re-set the timing to specification.
1. Remove the distributor cap. You will
find that there are two spring clips
which hold it on.
2. Insert a screwdriver between each clip
and the distributor case, and pry them
off the cap. The cap then simply lifts
off. Do not remove the spark plug wires
from the distributor cap.
3. Remove the rotor by pulling it straight
up off the distributor shaft.
4. Remove the plastic dust cover by lifting
it off the distributor.
5. Remove the old contact points. You will
see that there is a screw that holds the
points unit to a plate inside the
distributor.
6. Loosen and remove this screw. Unplug
the wire from the points from the black
plastic plug that it's connected to. Just
pull it straight off.
7. Now withdraw the points and if they are
pitted/excessively worn, replace them.
If they look good, keep them as your
spare for an emergency.

8. Remove the condenser. The


condenser is that little metal can inside
or outside of the distributor. There is
one screw that holds the condenser on
itself, and there is another which holds
the black plastic plug to the distributor
body. Both of these screws are readily
accessible, so remove them and the
little metal plug clip, and then remove
the condenser and plug from the
distributor.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Reassembly
1. On the new condenser, find the plastic plug. You will see a groove in it that the metal
plug clip fits into.
2. Fit the plug into the clip and then fit the assembly to the distributor body and start the
screw. Try not to drop the screw. Once you've started the screw, go ahead and
tighten it down.
3. Next, you want to install the condenser itself. Rotate the distributor as needed. Install
the new condenser with the screw to the distributor body. Once that is done, run the
green wire to the same terminal on the ignition coil you took the old one from. It
should be the (-) terminal.
4. Now you need to install the points. First, take a little dab of grease and smear some
on the distributor shaft. The proper grease should come in a little packet with your
new points set. A little goes a long way. Now fit the points. You will notice that at the
hinge end of the points, there is a protrusion that fits into a hole in the points plate.
Make sure that is engaged properly. Then when it is, insert the hold-down screw and
tighten it some, but leave it loose to provide for adjustment later. The magnetic-tipped
screwdriver really helps with inserting that screw.
5. Use your wrench on the alternator/generator pulley to turn the engine over until the
points rubbing block is on one of the high points of the distributor shaft and the points
are fully open. Look at it straight on from above and make sure the points are on the
high point and are fully open.
6. When this has been achieved, grab your feeler gauge set in one hand and a flat-
blade screwdriver in the other. You are going to adjust the gap between the points.
The minimum gap is .016" and the range is .016" to .020". If in doubt, consult your
manual for the correct specification.
7. Pull out the appropriate size of feeler gauge and slide it between the points. Make
sure you are doing it straight on. The blade should slide through with slight resistance
when the gap is correct. If it needs to be adjusted, grab your flat-blade screwdriver.
Look down at the plate the points sit on, toward the tip of the points away from the
points hinge. You will see two small nubs on that plate. What you do is insert your
screwdriver between these two nubs and use them to lever the points open or closed,
depending on your needs. It's harder to describe than it is to do. So lever the points
until the correct gap is achieved, and then tighten down the screw. Check once more
and if it is correct. If it has changed, loosen the screw, adjust the gap, and tighten it
again.
8. For Type 4 engines, rotate the distributor back as close to its original position as you
can. Re-attach the vacuum line and plug back in the cold start valve if you have fuel
injection.
9. Now you need to put the distributor back together. Put the plastic dust cover back on,
then the rotor. Notice that the distributor shaft has a cutout that fits a protrusion on
the rotor. The rotor will only go back on one way. Press the rotor down onto the shaft
and then wiggle it a bit while pushing down on it to make sure it is seated properly.
Then replace the distributor cap. It is notched on one end as is the distributor body,
so the cap will only go on one way.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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10. You may wish at this time to replace the distributor cap and rotor. If so, substitute the
new rotor for the old one when you place it on the shaft above. Then orient the new
distributor cap correctly regarding the notch. Now transfer the spark plug wires ONE
BY ONE to the new distributor cap. Make sure they are all fully seated in the new
cap. Fit the cap to the distributor body and then re-engage the spring clips.
11. Start the engine. It should start up just fine. Type 4 engines who had to turn the
distributor may find it running roughly, but it will improve on adjusting the timing.
12. Attach your tach/dwell meter according to the manufacturer's instructions. Using a
digital model, attach the red (+) cable goes to the (+) terminal on the coil, and the
black (-) cable goes to the (-) terminal on the coil. Then turn the knob to "Dwell, 4-cyl"
and observe the reading. It should be within the specification. Anywhere from 44 to
50 degrees of dwell is acceptable. If it is out of range, you need to go back in and
adjust the point gap until it is within specifications. Making the point gap narrower
increases the dwell reading and widening it decreases the reading, since the dwell is
the number of degrees of rotation during which the points are closed. Too narrow a
point gap can lead to burning of the points, which destroys them, and too wide a gap
can lead to misfiring under high rpm and high load conditions.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 65
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ASSESSMENT TASKS:

These assessment tasks should be completed when you are confident that you can
check/replace fuel filter and air cleaner. Assessment needs to conform to the rules of
evidence. Therefore:

 You will need to participate and complete the learning activities

 You will demonstrate tasks to the required standard

 You will answer oral and written questions

 You will complete the assessment tool

OBSERVATION CHECKLIST:

Trainer’s check
Self
Component Competent Not yet
check
competent

Distributor cap is removed properly.

Contact points and condenser are inspected


carefully.

Result of inspection is reported to instructor.

Engine components are cleaned.

Ignition breaker and condenser are installed/


replaced properly.

Tools are properly used and stored.

Work area is cleaned.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 66
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QUALIFICATION : Automotive Servicing NC I

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Perform Gas Engine Tune Up

MODULE TITLE : Tuning Up Gasoline Engine

LEARNING OUTCOME 5 : Check/adjust ignition distributor setting

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Ignition distributor is checked

2. Ignition distributor setting is adjusted

RESOURCES:

1. Auto Mechanics, Theory and Service


by: de Kryger, Kobacik. Bono

2. Corolla, Service and Repair Manual


10 by: Gregory’s Scientific Publication
11
3. Lancer, Service and Repair Manual
by: Gregory’s Scientific Publication

4. Toyota Training Manual


by: Toyota

9. VHS/CD

6. Corolla, Owners Manual


by: Toyota

7. Communication Module

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 67
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LEARNING EXPERIENCES

Learning Outcome # 5: Check/adjust ignition distributor setting

Learning Activities Special Instructions

1. Perform testing/adjusting dwell  Follow the procedures in Operation


angle and ignition setting of a gasoline Sheet LO5-1 “Checking/Adjusting
engine with the presence of your Dwell Angle and Ignition Setting”
instructor.

2. Check your knowledge and skill in this  Complete the assessment tasks.
learning outcome.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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LO5 - TEST/ADJUST DWELL ANGLE AND IGNITION
SETTING
LEARNING OUTCOME 5:

At the end of this learning activity you should be able to inspect and replace
contact point condenser of a gasoline engine.

TOOLS, EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS:

 Running condition vehicle


 Vehicle service manual
 Screwdrivers: flat and Phillips head (magnetic)
 Dwell/tach meter
 Strobe timing light
 Wrench: 10 mm
 Feeler gauges
 New set of breaker points
 New condenser
 Grease
 Chalk

LEARNING ACTIVITIES:

Activity # 1: Check/adjust ignition distributor setting

a. Read Operation Sheet LO5-1, and then perform the activity with the
presence of your instructor.

b. Perform dwell angle adjustment and set the ignition timing.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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OPERATION SHEET LO5-1: Check/Adjust Dwell Angle and Ignition Setting

Dwell* or dwell angle is the number of


degrees the distributor shaft rotates
measured from the point where the ignition
contacts close to the point where they open
again.

Dwell angle is inversely proportional to


point gap, that is, increasing the gap
decreases the dwell, and vice versa.
Insufficient dwell may cause ignition failure
at high speed, while too much dwell
increases the total average current which
the points must handle, particularly at low
speed. This usually leads to very short
point life.

After a distributor is initially timed for a


given engine, any change in dwell will
result in a change in timing, requiring re-
timing of the distributor since the rubbing
block of the moving arm will contact the
cam in a different place.

Set the point dwell to the lower limit for new


points to allow for rubbing-block wear when
a dwell specification is given with a high
and low limit.

Parts of a distributor assembly.

*The percent of dwell is the percentage of the actual dwell angle of the points as
compared to the maximum, dwell angle possible (100 percent dwell). The 100
percent dwell for 4, 6, and 8 cylinder engines, and some examples of percent of dwell
are listed in Table 1.

TABLE 1

No. of Maximum cylinders dwell angle (100% dwell)

4 cylinder = 90° 6 cylinders = 60° 8 cylinders = 45°

Comparison of percent of dwell and dwell angle

Percent of Calculation Corresponding dwell dwell angle


60% (.60) (90°) 54°
60% (.60) (60°) 36°
60% (.60) (45°) 27°
Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #
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CONTACT POINT GAP AND DWELL (Cam Angle Relationship)

If a distributor cannot be adjusted so that gap and dwell are within specifications at the
same time inspect the distributor for the following possibilities:

a. Improper spring tension or sticky pivot.


b. Wrong point set installed.
c. Bent shaft, causing point opening to vary on each cam lobe.
d. Worn cam lobes or defective cam, as above. (Compare gap at each cam lobe if in
doubt.)
e. Points floating, or not following the cam at high speeds.
f. Excessive resistance causing false dwell reading. In practically every case the
remedy will be self-evident.

CHECKING/ADJUSTING FOR PROPER DWELL ANGLE

1) Connect the dwell meter as per its manufacturer's instructions: Generally one of two
leads is connected to the positive terminal of the battery and the other lead to the
negative terminal of the coil.

2) Start the engine and read the dwell


angle (making sure meter is set on 4
cylinder).

3) If dwell angle is too high (points closed


for too many degree of rotation), you
will have to carefully reset your points to
a slightly larger gap. If the dwell angle is
too low, the points will need to be set
slightly closer. Adjust the gap .002" or .
003" at a time for best control.

4) Restart the engine and re-measure


dwell angle. Repeat as above until Top view of distributor (cap removed) showing
dwell angle is correct. contact breaker points.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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SETTING IGNITION TIMING

1. Set the timing by connecting the light (inductive or direct) and then mark the correct
timing position on the crank pulley or damper.

Note: Connect the power lead to the + terminal on the battery or the + side of the coil
and the other wire to ground.
2. Follow your engine manual and make an easy-to-read mark with White-Out (liquid
paper) or chalk.
3. Disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor and stick a pencil or nail into it to
prevent a vacuum leak.
4. Start the engine and get it running about 500-600 rpm to prevent any action from the
centrifugal advance mechanism (if there is one) and then slowly rotate the distributor
until the timing mark lines up with its pointer.
5. Tighten the hold-down on the distributor. If the engine won't run slowly enough back
off on the accelerator linkage at the carburetor. If the engine runs too slow increase
the idle speed.
6. Check the timing again and then put the light away.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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ASSESSMENT TASKS:

These assessment tasks should be completed when you are confident that you can
check/replace fuel filter and air cleaner. Assessment needs to conform to the rules of
evidence. Therefore:

 You will need to participate and complete the learning activities

 You will demonstrate tasks to the required standard

 You will answer oral and written questions

 You will complete the assessment tool

OBSERVATION CHECKLIST:

Trainer’s check
Self
Component Competent Not yet
check
competent

Dwell angle is adjusted to specifications.

Ignition timing is set.

Result of dwell angle adjustment is reported


to instructor.

Engine components are cleaned.

Setting of ignition timing is reported to


instructor.

Tools are properly used and stored.

Work area is cleaned.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 73
ALT723302 March 4, 2006
QUALIFICATION : Automotive Servicing NC I

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Perform Gas Engine Tune Up

MODULE TITLE : Tuning Up Gasoline Engine

LEARNING OUTCOME 6 : Set fuel mixture and idle rpm

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Fuel mixture and idle speed (rpm) is adjusted


2. Advanced timing is checked

RESOURCES:

1. Auto Mechanics, Theory and Service


by: de Kryger, Kobacik. Bono

2. Corolla, Service and Repair Manual


12 by: Gregory’s Scientific Publication
13
3. Lancer, Service and Repair Manual
by: Gregory’s Scientific Publication

4. Toyota Training Manual


by: Toyota

5. VHS/CD

6. Corolla, Owners Manual


by: Toyota

7. Communication Module

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


Tuning Up Gasoline Engine 74
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LEARNING EXPERIENCES

Learning Outcome # 6: Set fuel mixture and idle rpm

Learning Activities Special Instructions

1. Adjust engine idle speed and mixture  Follow the procedures in Operation
of a gasoline engine with the Sheets LO6-1 “Adjust Engine Idle
presence of your instructor. Speed” and LO6-2 Adjust Carburetor
Air-Fuel Mixture”

2. Check your knowledge and skill in this  Complete the assessment tasks.
learning outcome.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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LO6 - SET FUEL MIXTURE AND IDLE RPM
LEARNING OUTCOME 6:

At the end of this learning activity you should be able to set the air-fuel mixture
and idle speed (rpm) of a gasoline engine.

TOOLS, EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS:

 Running condition vehicle


 Vehicle service manual
 Screwdrivers: flat and Phillips head (magnetic)
 P 227 Carburetor Synchronizer
 Wrench: 10 mm

LEARNING ACTIVITIES:

Activity # 1: Adjust engine idle speed and mixture

a. Read Operation Sheets LO6-1 and LO6-2, and then perform the
activities with the presence of your instructor.

b. Adjust engine idle speed and mixture of a gasoline engine with the
presence of your instructor.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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OPERATION SHEET LO6-1: Adjust Engine Idle Speed

An improper air-to-fuel mixture results in bad engine performance and higher gas
consumption. Shown here are the steps in adjusting engine idle speed.
Procedure:
1. Determine if your car has a carburetor by checking your owner’s manual. Try looking
below the air filter to find the carburetor.
2. Be sure the engine is shut off then open the hood.
3. Remove the air filter by first
unscrewing the wing nut on top.  No
need to disconnect any hoses
connected to the air filter - just
carefully set it aside.

4. The carburetor is the part that the air


filter was screwed into. The air/fuel
mixture is adjusted by two screws.
Typically, these screws can be found
on the lower-front section of the
carburetor.
5. Using a flat-head screw driver, turn
both screws to the right until they stop.
Do not tighten because this could
damage the needle points.

5.  Loosen each screw, one at a time, 2 1/2 turns out.


 
7.  Replace the air filter assembly and start the car.
 
8.  If ideal idling speed is different from service manual (usually 1,200 – 1,300 rpm),
adjust idle accordingly by turning the screws in small increments.

9. Check accelerator pedal stop bolt and adjust if necessary. When the accelerator
pedal is depressed against the stop bolt, the carburetor arm should be clearing the
carburetor stop block by about 1 mm (.039 in).

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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OPERATION SHEET LO6-2: Adjust Carburetor Air-Fuel Mixture.

1. Make sure the engine is off then open the hood.


2. Remove the air filter by first unscrewing the wing nut on top.  No need to disconnect
any hoses connected to the air filter - just carefully set it aside.
3.  The carburetor is the part that the air filter was screwed into. The air/fuel mixture is
adjusted by two screws. Typically, these screws can be found on the lower-front
section of the carburetor.
4.  Using a flat-head screw driver, turn both screws to the right until they are tight.
5.  Loosen each screw, one at a time, 2 1/2 turns out.
6.  Replace the air filter assembly and start the car.
7.  Adjust idle accordingly.

8. A vacuum gauge is essential. Hook it


up to intake manifold vacuum at any
available place, or use an adaptor.
Timing (ignition) plugs, wires, etc.
should already be completed. Engine
should be at operating temperature
(Choke should not be engaged).

9. Adjust idle speed per vehicle emissions


specs (sticker under hood will display
this).

10 Adjust the fuel mixture usually by


turning idle screw inwards (right)
lessens the amount of fuel. By turning
the screw all the way in and backing out
2 1/2 turns gives you a place to start.
If your carburetor has two screws turn them BOTH the same amount. By then turning
the screw(s) in at 1/2 turn increments, letting the engine run for a few seconds, or
"blipping" the throttle, you will hear and notice the engine operation change slightly.
When the speed drops off, (engine may shudder) you have gone too far.

11. Turn screw(s) back out 1/4 turn until the engine runs smoothly.

12. Let the engine run for a minutes. If done properly, you now have a lean burn setting
on your fuel mix. DO NOT GO BACK AND FIDDLE WITH YOUR IDLE SPEED OR
TIMING. IF YOU DO YOU WILL HAVE TO DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN. THE FUEL
MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT IS THE LAST THING YOU DO.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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ASSESSMENT TASKS:

These assessment tasks should be completed when you are confident that you can
check/replace fuel filter and air cleaner. Assessment needs to conform to the rules of
evidence. Therefore:

 You will need to participate and complete the learning activities

 You will demonstrate tasks to the required standard

 You will answer oral and written questions

 You will complete the assessment tool

OBSERVATION CHECKLIST:

Trainer’s check
Self
Component Competent Not yet
check
competent
Engine speed (rpm) is checked and adjusted
properly.

Carburetor air-fuel mixture is adjusted


properly.
Adjustment settings are reported to
instructor.

Engine components are cleaned.

Tools are properly used and stored.

Work area is cleaned.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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QUALIFICATION : Automotive Servicing NC I

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Perform Gas Engine Tune Up

MODULE TITLE : Tuning Up Gasoline Engine

LEARNING OUTCOME 7 : Perform compression test

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Compression test is performed.


2. Compression test result is interpreted and appropriates recommendations is
prescribed.

RESOURCES:

1. Auto Mechanics, Theory and Service


by: de Kryger, Kobacik. Bono

2. Corolla, Service and Repair Manual


14 by: Gregory’s Scientific Publication
15
3. Lancer, Service and Repair Manual
by: Gregory’s Scientific Publication

4. Toyota Training Manual


by: Toyota

5. VHS/CD

6. Corolla, Owners Manual


by: Toyota

7. Communication Module

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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LEARNING EXPERIENCES

Learning Outcome # 7: Perform compression test

Learning Activities Special Instructions

1. Perform compression testing of a  Follow the procedures in Operation


gasoline engine with the presence of Sheet LO7-1 “Performing
your instructor. Compression Test”

2. Check your knowledge and skill in this  Complete the assessment tasks.
learning outcome.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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LO8 - PERFORM COMPRESSION TEST
LEARNING OUTCOME 7:

At the end of this learning activity you should be able to perform compression test
on a gasoline engine.

TOOLS, EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS:

 Running condition vehicle


 Vehicle service manual
 Basic hand tool set
 Compression gauge
 Safety glasses

LEARNING ACTIVITIES:

Activity # 1: Conduct compression test

a. Read Job Sheet LO7-1, and then perform the activity with the
presence of your instructor.

b. Interpret compression testing result on an actual engine and


recommend appropriate solutions to compression problems
encountered.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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JOB SHEET LO7-1: Perform Compression Testing

The cylinder compression tester measures the ability of the cylinders to hold
compression while the starting motor cranks the engine. The compression tester is a
pressure gauge that measures the amount of pressure or compression, built-up in the
cylinder during the compression stroke. How well a cylinder holds compression is an
indication of the condition of the piston, piston rings, cylinder wall, valves and head
gasket.

1. Warm up the engine to operating temperature.

2. Stop the engine.

3. Remove the injector or injection nozzles.

4. Connect a pressure gauge to the


cylinder port as shown.

Figure LO7-1.
5. Set the engine speed control to stop position.

6. Turn the engine with the starter until the pressure gauge registers no further rise in
pressure.

Note: It is a good practice to count the number of compression strokes, indicated by movement
of the gauge needle, and check each cylinder with the same number of strokes. The
engine must be at full cranking speed or as specified in appropriate service manual to get
a good reading.

7. Check the pressure reading against the engine technical manual.

Note: Low pressure indicates leakage through valves, rings or gaskets. Variations in cylinder
pressures of more than 10% usually indicate a need for cylinder reconditioning.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Results of Compression Test

Engine compression readings are usually considered normal if the lowest reading is
75 percent or more of the highest.

For example, if one cylinder in an engine has a compression pressure of 120 psi (828
kPa), then all cylinders should have compression readings of 90 psi (621 kPa) or
higher. Typical compression pressures vary among engines and manufacturers. In
many General Motors engines, no cylinder should have a compression pressure of
less than 100 psi (690 kPa). Toyota specifies a maximum compression pressure of
142 psi (990 kPa) in some engines. The following section describes interpreting the
results of the compression test.

The manufacturer’s specification show what the compression pressures should be. If
compression is low, there is leakage past the piston rings, valves or cylinder-head
gasket. If the readings vary, how they vary may indicate the cause of the problem.

A Compression test made as described in Figure LO7-2 is a dry compression test. In


a spark-ignition engine, a second or wet compression test will help locate the leak.
Squirt about 1 tablespoon [15 cc] of engine oil through the spark-plug hole into the
cylinder. Recheck the compression.

Caution: Never perform a wet compression test on a diesel engine. The heat of a
compression could ignite the oil and damage the compression tester. Also, since the
oil is not compressible, it could fill the combustion chamber and create a hydrostatic
lock. This prevents the crankshaft from turning and may damage the engine.

If the compression pressure increases Compression Gauge Possible Engine


to a more normal value, the low Reading Condition
compression probably is due to Fails to climb during Valve sticking open
leakage past worn piston rings. all compression
Adding oil helps seal the rings strokes
20 PSI (138 kPa) Faulty rings or valve
temporarily as the cylinder holds
below normal seating
compression better. Other possible
More than 20 PSI (138 Faulty head gasket
causes are a worn piston or cylinder kPa) below normal in
wall, and rings that are broken or two cylinders next to
stuck in their piston-ring grooves. each other
20 PSI (138 kPa) Excessive carbon
If adding oil does not increase above normal buildup in
compression pressure, the leakage combustion chamber
may be past the valves. Possible Figure LO8-2. Compression-gauge readings and
causes include: the probable engine conditions. (Ford Motor
Company)

1. Broken valve springs


2. Incorrect valve adjustment
3. Sticking valves, valves not seating
4. Worn or burned valves
5. Worn or burned valve seats
6. Worn camshaft lobes
7. Dished or worn valve lifters

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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A blown head gasket also causes a low reading during a wet compression test. The
gasket has burned away and compression pressure leaks between the cylinder block
and head. Low or no compression in two adjacent cylinders is probably due to a
blown head gasket between the two cylinders.
Whatever the cause—rings, pistons, cylinder walls, valves, gaskets—the cylinder
head must be removed to correct the trouble. The exception is an improper valve
adjustment that holds the valves slightly off their seats. Valves are adjusted with the
cylinder head in place.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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ASSESSMENT TASKS:

These assessment tasks should be completed when you are confident that you can
check/replace fuel filter and air cleaner. Assessment needs to conform to the rules of
evidence. Therefore:

 You will need to participate and complete the learning activities

 You will demonstrate tasks to the required standard

 You will answer oral and written questions

 You will complete the assessment tool

OBSERVATION CHECKLIST:

Trainer’s check
Self
Component Competent Not yet
check
competent

Compression test is performed properly.

Results of compression tests are reported to


instructor.

Engine components are cleaned.

Tools are properly used and stored.

Work area is cleaned.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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PERFORMANCE TEST

Learner's Name Date

Competency: Perform Gas Engine Tune Up Test Attempt


1st 2nd
3rd

Directions: OVERALL EVALUATION


Level
CALL YOUR INSTRUCTOR, ask Achieved PERFORMANCE LEVELS
your instructor to assess your
performance in the following critical 4 - Can perform this skill without supervision
and with initiative and adaptability to problem
task and performance criteria situations.
below.
3 - Can perform this skill satisfactorily without
assistance or supervision.
You will be rated based on the
overall evaluation on the right side. 2 - Can perform this skill satisfactorily but
requires some assistance and/or supervision.

1 - Can perform parts of this skill satisfactorily,


but requires considerable assistance and/or
supervision.

Instructor will initial level achieved.

PERFORMANCE STANDARDS Yes No N/A


For acceptable achievement, all items should receive a "Yes" or "N/A" response.
1. Valve tappet clearance is set
2. Checking and adjustment is performed
3. Spark plug clearance is adjusted
4. Spark plug is tested
5. Fuel filter and air cleaner are replaced
6. Fuel filter is free of sediments and impurities
7. Ignition breaker is tested and replaced
8. Condenser is tested and replaced
9. Fuel mixture and idle rpm is adjusted
10. Advanced timing is checked
11. Compression test is performed
12. Compression test result is interpreted and appropriates
recommendations is prescribed

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Learner’s diary

DIARY NOTES
Record important dates, jobs undertaken and other workplace events that will assist you in providing
further details to an Assessor.

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Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Record of Achievement
Module # 1: Tuning Up Gasoline Engine
LO 1 : Measure/adjust valve tappet clearance

Performance Criteria:

1.1. Valve tappet clearance is set


1.2. Checking and adjustment is performed
Comments:
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Learner has satisfied the above performance criteria.


Learner’s signature:.......................................................................
Trainer’s signature:........................................................................
Date:..............................................................................................

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Record of Achievement
Module # 1: Tuning Up Gasoline Engine
LO 2 : Test spark plug

Performance Criteria:

2.1 Spark plug clearance is adjusted.


2.2 Spark plug is tested.
2.3 Spark plug test result analyzed and appropriate recommendations are
prescribed.
Comments:
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Learner has satisfied the above performance criteria.


Learner’s signature:.......................................................................
Trainer’s signature:........................................................................
Date:..............................................................................................

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Record of Achievement
Module # 1: Tuning Up Gasoline Engine
LO 3 : Check/replace fuel filter and air cleaner

Performance Criteria:

3.1. Fuel filter and air cleaner are replaced.


3.2. Fuel filter is free of sediments and impurities.
Comments:
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Learner has satisfied the above performance criteria.


Learner’s signature:.......................................................................
Trainer’s signature:........................................................................
Date:..............................................................................................

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Record of Achievement
Module # 1: Tuning Up Gasoline Engine
LO 4 : Test and replace ignition breaker

Performance Criteria:

4.1. Ignition breaker is tested and replaced


4.2. Condenser is tested and replaced
Comments:
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Learner has satisfied the above performance criteria.


Learner’s signature:.......................................................................
Trainer’s signature:........................................................................
Date:..............................................................................................

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Record of Achievement
Module # 1: Tuning Up Gasoline Engine
LO 5 : Check/adjust ignition distributor setting

Performance Criteria:

5.1. Ignition distributor is checked


5.2 Ignition distributor setting is adjusted
Comments:
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Learner has satisfied the above performance criteria.


Learner’s signature:.......................................................................
Trainer’s signature:........................................................................
Date:..............................................................................................

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Record of Achievement
Module # 1: Tuning Up Gasoline Engine
LO 6 : Set fuel mixture and idle rpm

Performance Criteria:

6.1. Fuel mixture and idle rpm is adjusted


6.2. Advanced timing is checked

Comments:
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Learner has satisfied the above performance criteria.


Learner’s signature:.......................................................................
Trainer’s signature:........................................................................
Date:..............................................................................................

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Record of Achievement
Module # 1: Tuning Up Gasoline Engine
LO 7 : Perform compression test

Performance Criteria:

7.1. Compression test is performed.


7.2. Compression test result is interpreted and appropriates recommendations is
prescribed.

Comments:
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Learner has satisfied the above performance criteria.


Learner’s signature:.......................................................................
Trainer’s signature:........................................................................
Date:..............................................................................................

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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Terms and Definitions
Accumulator - A gas filled pressure chamber Electrical load - The working device of the
that provides hydraulic pressure for ABS circuit.
operation. Electromagnetism - A form of magnetism that
A circuit - A generator circuit that uses an occurs when current flows through a
external grounded field circuit. The conductor.
generator is on the ground side of the field Electromotive force (EMF) - See voltage.
coil. Field current draw test - Diagnostic test that
Ammeter - A test meter used to measure determines if there is a current available to
current draw. the field windings.
Amperes - See current. Floor jack - A portable hydraulic tool used to
Analog - A voltage signal that is infinitely raise and lower a vehicle.
variable or can be changed within a given Fuse - A replaceable circuit protection device
range. that will melt should the current passing
Battery terminal test - Checks for poor through it exceeds its rating.
electrical connections between the battery Fusible link - A wire made of meltable
cables and terminals. Use a voltmeter to material with a special heat-resistant
measure voltage drop across the cables insulation. When there is an overload in
and terminals. the circuit, the link melts and opens the
B circuit - A generator regulator circuit that is circuit.
internally grounded. In the B circuit, the Ground - The common negative connection of
voltage regulator controls the power side the electrical system that is the point of the
of the filed circuit. lowest voltage.
Bench test - A term used to indicate that the Grounded circuit - An electrical defect that
unit is to be removed from the vehicle and allows current to return to ground before it
tested. has reached the intended load component.
Brushes - Electrically conductive sliding Ground side - The portion of the circuit that is
contacts, usually made of copper and from the load component to the negative
carbon. side of the source.
Circuit - The path of electron flow consisting Growler - Test equipment used to test starter
of the voltage source, conductors, load armatures for shorts and grounds. It
component, and return path to the voltage produces a very strong magnetic field that
source. is capable of inducing a current flow and
Commutator - A series of conducting magnetism in a conductor.
segments located around one end of the Hydrometer - A test instrument used to check
armature. the specific gravity of the electrolyte to
Conductor - A substance that is capable of determine the battery's state of charge.
supporting the flow of electricity through it. Insulator - A substance that is not capable of
Continuity - Refers to the circuit being supporting the flow of electricity.
continuous with no opens. Jack stands - Support devices used to hold
the vehicle off the floor after it has been
Current - The aggregate flow of electrons
raised by the floor jack.
through a wire. One ampere represents
Lamp - A device that produces light as a
the movement of 6.25 billion electrons (or
result of current flow through a filament.
one coulomb) past one point in a
The filament is enclosed within a glass
conductor in one second.
envelope and is a type of resistance wire
Current draw test - Diagnostic test used to that is generally made from tungsten.
measure the amount of current that the
starter draws when actuated. It
determines the electrical and mechanical
condition of the starting system.

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Magnetism - An energy form resulting from Series-parallel circuit - A circuit that have
atoms aligning within certain materials, some loads in series and some in
giving the materials the ability to attract parallel.
other metals. Short - An electrical fault that allows for
Ohm - Unit of measure for resistance. One electrical current to bypass its normal
ohm is the resistance of the conductor path.
such that a constant current of one Solenoid - An electromagnetic device that
ampere in it produces a voltage of one uses movement of a plunger to exert a
volt between its ends. pulling or holding force.
Ohmmeter - A test meter used to measure Splice - The joining of single wire ends or
resistance and continuity in a circuit. the joining of two or more electrical
Ohm's law - Defines the relationship between conductors at a single point.
current, voltage and resistance. State of charge - The condition of a
Open circuit - A term used to indicate that battery's electrolyte and plate materials
current flow is stopped. By opening the at any given time.
circuit, the path for electron flow is broken. Valve clearance - The measured gap
Overload - Excess current flow in a circuit. between the end of the valve stem
Parallel circuit - A circuit that provides two or and the rocker arm, cam lobe or
more paths for electricity to flow. follower that activates the valve.
Relay - A device that uses low current to Voltage - The difference or potential that
control a high current circuit. Low current indicates an excess of electrons at the
is used to energize the electromagnetic end of the circuit the farthest from the
coil, while high current is able to pass electromotive force. It is the electrical
over the relay contacts. pressure that causes electrons to move
through a circuit. One volt is the
Resistance - Opposition to current flow. amount of pressure required to move
Series circuit - A circuit that provides a one amp of current through one ohm of
single path for current flow from the resistance.
electrical source through the circuit's Voltage drop - A resistance in the circuit
components, and back to the source. that reduces the electrical pressure
available after the resistance. The
resistance can either be the load
component, the conductors, any
connections, or unwanted resistance.

Code No. Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #


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