The self sustaining electric generator Page 1 of 9

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The Jospeh H.Cater Free energy device

Solaris can offer no personal Guarantee as to the performance of this free energy generator.

Mr.Cater claims that a group in California built such the device which is claimed performed very well, but he,
does not claim that he has personally seen of tested such a device.

This design is published for researchers and experimenters in order that a working prototype maybe developed.

Mr. Cater says, Quote: "I would be willing to give big odds that if my instructions are carried out to the Letter,
sensational results will be obtained. It should easily out perform any other generator that has ever been built
including the Moray and the Hubbard devices.

It could easily be mass-produced.

Some years ago I got word from someone in Germany who built a similar configuration

(a very poor replica-of this one where the output coil consisted of only windings on a solid iron bar which in turn
was surrounded by smaller coils on smaller bars which constituted the input. Even this was quite successful where
the output was as three times the input.
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I do not know what happened to the builder but such a crude device as this could give the world free energy. The
output of a small unit could be used as the input for a larger one and so on: end quote

As the web editor of SOLARIS and as does the original publisher of this article "The Australian Tuning IN
magazine." Both wish to thank Mr Cater for this challenging contribution which if it proves to be a success, we
will really be on to some thing big. If it is not successful... well we just continue the search until we are successful.

Keep in mind that these plans are not meant to be explicit in every fine detail, but are provided as the best guide
as the author can make with the available data.

Therefore you will need to use some of your own ingenuity and design skills in the construction of this rather
unusual coil configuration.

THE PRIMARY COIL INPUT - DRIVER’ SUGGESTIONS FOR THE TEST - BENCH ROTOTYPE

I would suggest the construction of a power supply with all variables in FREQUENCY, VOLTAGE &
CURRENT. A frequency range of from 50 cps (Hertz) to 1000 cps would be a good starting point.

The higher the frequency of the input current (amperage and voltage at a constant) the greater output of the
induced E.M.F. is directly proportional to the frequency (rate of change of magnetic flux). 50 cycles or 60 cycles
would be more convenient to experiment with as these frequencies are standard power mains frequencies, however
360 cps or more is recommended for the real thing.

This would also mean a lower input current requirement. Mr.Carter suggests that for experimental purposes in
determining the input needed to get the desired output, use rectified AC 12 volts. Sinusoidal waves should be used,
not square waves.

Because of its tremendous potential care should be taken with the amount of input current. One should start with a
low frequency (about 50 cps or 60 cps) and low amperage, then gradually increasing the current until the desired
input / output is obtained.

Such caution was not followed with a previous model built by a group in California. (USA)

It resulted in the disintegration of the output coil. The iron sheets in this model ‘were not plated and did not have
the caps fitted. Never the less, it was still an effective orgone accumulator.

The gold plating of the iron sheets and the addition of the CAPS enables it to operate with a much lower input
current and lower frequency.

THE PRIMARY COILS

If the outer body of your secondary coil is eight inches in diameter, then you wont fit the recommended seventeen
primary coils around its perimeter. If your primary coils are one and a half inches in diameter then these will fit
nicely around an 8" perimeter.

However it is preferable to have larger primary coils as alluded to in Mr Carters opening comments, so it may be
advisable to stick to the recommended 2 inch diameter size for the primary coils, but settle for one less and use
only 16 primary coils.

Experimentation will decide which is the best way to go. For the purposes of this article I will refer to the 2 inch
Diameter.

Cut medium gauge soft iron rods ( oxy-welding rods will do) to 13 inches.

Be sure to de - burr the cut rods so that a compact fit is assured.

Next wind each coil separately with one terminal at each end. (no gap ‘G’ is required for the primary coils )

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When the primary coils are physically mounted around the large secondary coil.

Refer to Diagram 1.

The primary coils are then inter connected with suitable fig leads the same gauge as the coil wire to form a series
coil configuration. Refer to Diagram 2.

All coils must be wound in an identical manner such that the current in each one travels in a clockwise or counter
clockwise direction. It is mandatory that the current flows in the same direction

THE SECONDARY COIL. CONSTRUCTION NOTES

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The secondary coil consists of a number of concentric cylinders and coils of three varying types repeated in a
special sequence as detailed below.

First you begin with the soft iron core in the same way as the primary iron cores were constructed. Use two inch
diameter (2" D) thin walled PVC Tubing cut to thirteen inches (1 3") in length, and packed wit h soft iron rods
(oxy - welding rods will do)

[2] Around the central PVC tubing wrap the gold plated iron sheeting such that the gold is facing externally or
outwards.

The iron sheeting is to be in the range of 0.010" to 0.015". The iron sheeting should be as thin as possible as it is
desirable to obtain the most powerful fluctuating magnetic field to be induced as close to the wire as can be
physically and electrically achieved.

This is the reason for the oil soaked iron powder. The purpose of the oil of course is to make the iron powder
physically manageable.

The thinner the iron sheeting the more completely magnetised it will be. The gold coating is only the frosting on
the cake so to speak. It certainly does not need to be very thick and no, you don’t have to pay thousands of dollars
for gold plating.

A simple chemical process is used. Ask your local electro - plater for a lead in the right direction.

As to the suppliers of the iron sheeting, you certainly wont find it down at your local hardware store as it is a
rather a specialised item. - Try Transformer manufacturers or electric motor and generator suppliers.

You will need eight (8) concentric iron cylinders.

All will be thirteen inches (1 3) wide with varying lengths according to the circumference of each concentric
lager.

Allow a ¼ inch extra in circumference length for a small overlap.

You will need to devise a method for keeping the iron sheeting in position ready for the next stage of
construction.

Several spots of super glue should do the job nicely.

Now that you have wrapped your first iron layer around the central PVC tube containing the soft iron core, you are
now ready to wind your first secondary coil.

Use a heavy gauge enamel coated wire somewhere near the gauge of house wiring.

If this is unavailable then insulated single core wire will do.

As with all the coils that are to be wound, either primary or secondary, only one lager of wire is to be wound.

When you are winding the secondary coil you must allow a small space between each turn. Refer to diagram 3.

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The gap ‘G’ reduces the inertia of flowing electrons as well as allowing room for the oil soaked iron powder which
is to be packed between each winding.

Perhaps 1 mm to 1.5 mm would be a sufficient gap between each winding. However, before packing each coil
with the iron powder, it would be advisable to lacquer the coil winding to seal it into position on the iron sheeting.

It will also provide extra insulative protection.

The purpose of the non- metallic concentric spacers within the secondary coil serves two purposes:

1. To minimise the cancellation effects.

2. To produce an Orgone accumulator effect.

The material used could be heavy duty PVC tubing with ¼ inch thick walls or ¼ inch thick sheeting, possibly heat
treated, to wrap it around the coils.

You may be lucky for one or two of the concentric rings required, and have a piece of PVC tubing at just the right
diameter.

For the other required diameters you could reduce the circumference of a larger piece of tubing, thus reducing it
to the desired diameter.

Be sure your butt join is perfect or any gaps are filled with a suitable plastic putty. Some innovation and ingenuity
may be required for this part of the construction. (And simple solutions are welcome for updates to this web page.

The general concept for building the multi layered secondary coil is to build it by winding each coil on separate
concentric cylinders consisting of the gold plated iron sheeting wrapped around the non - metallic spacer.

The Inner diameter of one will be the outer diameter of another and visa a versa.

They are then joined together one inside the other.

Fly wires are then used to inter connect the terminations at the end of each coil. For initial experiments this may
be done in several ways, two of which are recommended by Mr. Cater.

1. Each concentric coil mag be connected in series so that the current will flow in the same direction, either
clockwise or counter clock wise as if one continuous Coil.

OR -

Put in another way adjacent pair of coils is wired such that the current is in the opposite to the adjacent pair of
coils.

Put another way. The first two adjacent coils are connected in the clockwise direction, for example, but the next
pair of Coils is connected such that the current is running counter clock wise relative to the first pair.

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The next pair will be clockwise and the fourth pair will be counter clockwise. Changing the wiring configuration
can be simply achieved by rearranging the external fly leads used to inter - connect each concentric secondary coil.

The leads should take the shortest path around the outer peripheral of the secondary coil and of course to be of the
same gauge as the actual coil winding itself. Refer to Diagram 4

THE SIDE CAPS

Now that you have completed your secondary coil and wound your primary coils, the way is now clear to cut the
CAPS to their correct size such that the diameter will be of sufficient dimension to cover in the entire primary and
secondary coil assembly. Refer to Diagram 1.

The required dimension is " DIA. C

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1 Cut eight pieces of ¼ inch thick plastic sheeting to the diameter "DIA. C 4 per cap, 8 in total.

2. Cut eight pieces of gold plated iron sheeting in the same manner.

3 Glue together the plastic and iron sheeting as illustrated in the expanded drawing. Refer to Diagram 6.

Devise a method to affix the caps to the sides of the unit and a means to position the outer primary coils holding
them all in their correct positions. Keep in mind that powerful magnetic forces will be present and also that the
unit it self will be quite heavy so a sturdy construction is advised.

A suggestion might be to dowel the Caps into position and use suitable shaped plastic spacers to Position and hold
the primary coils into position.

With the addition of the caps the above generator becomes a highly potent orgone accumulator.

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Gold plated iron is many, many times as effective as any other metallic material.

The accumulator effect greatly increases the effectiveness of the generator.

TESTING

Now that you have actually completed all the construction work, you should have on hand a suitable input driver
unit that should have been thoroughly tested and now ready for the real thing. Lets be optimistic and hook up a
good size load for the secondary, a couple of radiator bars (electric heaters) should do to begin with. Across the
output terminals you can hook up with all the usual test gear.

SUMMARY

The construction of the secondary coils maybe seen in the following steps-

1 - A thin - walled PVC Tube of 2-Diameter X 1 3- long is filled soft iron rods-

2- Wrap the PVC Tubing with the iron Sheeting cut to size with an over lap 1/4" along the tube but flush with the
ends Insure that the GOLD SIDE is facing outwards-

3- Wind the heavy gauge coil (one layer only) with a suitable spacing between each winding and suitable
terminals at each end-

4- Lacquer coat the coil winding sealing it into position-

5- Pack the coil windings with the Oil soaked iron powder-

6- Wrap the coil and iron powder with ducting tape-

7- Fit the ¼"- non conductive Spacer as specified-

8 Go back to point two and repeat steps two to seven eight times to finish with an outer casing consisting of the
¼" non conducting material

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This Article first say the light day several years ago and first Published to my knowledge In the Australian
Free energy Newsletter called TUNING IN.

"

I am unaware if there were other attempts to build the device mentioned but it does bear some striking similarities
to The Hubbard Device also mentioned at this site. ,I would be interested if others have any more to add to this
article "[webmaster]

Geoff Egel

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