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DECEMBER 2019

/ JANUARY 2020

BEAUTY
REPORTER
20 Celestial eye makeup
22 How does J.Lo’s 25th
fragrance stack up against
her first? • Latina-owned
beauty lines
24 The oud supremacy •
Festival-inspired candles
28 Flowers of London
30 Q & A with Rachel
Brosnahan • A sneak peek at
January’s Allure Beauty Box
32 Editors’ Favorites
34 BareMinerals’ latest
foundation • A new dry
shampoo

NEWS & TRENDS


40 Sphere of Influence.
La Vie de Jeanne. The big
business of French beauty.
49 Modern Wellness. Office
Space. What are the self-care
benefits of working from
home? Two Allure editors
share their experiences.
55 Phenomenon.
Uncommon Goods. Royal-
approved beauty.
66 Gift Guide. Objects of
Desire. Your go-to resource
for holiday shopping.
78 Background Beauty.
Drawing Lines. How Azra
Khamissa modernizes
a 5,000-year-old art form.
82 Dream Kit. Makeup
artist Daniel Martin spills his
bag of tricks.

40
CRISTA LEONARD

JE NE SAIS QUOI
Meet Jeanne Damas, the
influencer who turned
her French It girl status into
a lucrative business.

2 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


BOLD LIPS
BOLDER ATTITUDE.
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NEW L’ABSOLU ROUGE


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DECEMBER 2019 / JANUARY 2020
104 Statement Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685 showing the Ownership,
Management and Circulation of ALLURE, published monthly (11 issues),
LA LA LAND for October 1, 2019. Publication No. 006-904. Annual subscription price
$16.00.
California beauty 1. Location of known office of Publication is One World Trade Center, New
reimagined York, NY 10007.
by makeup artist 2. Location of the Headquarters or General Business Offices of the Publisher
is One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
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partner, Managing Editor are: Chief Business Officer, Susan Plagemann, One World
Trade Center, NY, New York 10007. Editor in Chief, Michelle Lee, One World
photographer Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Director of Editorial Operations, Amanda
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Off-White blazer 4. The owner is: Advance Magazine Publishers, Inc., published through
its Condé Nast division, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
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84 The Sky’s the Limit. Distribution Outside the Mail
Zendaya has been in front of e. Total Free or Nominal Rate 305,625 318,466
Distribution
the camera for a good part of f. Total Distribution 1,177,908 1,205,425
her life. The actor gets candid
about privacy, tattoos, and
ON THE g. Copies Not Distributed
h. Total
49,522
1,227,430
35,649
1,241,074

COVER
i. Percent Paid 74.05% 73.58%
not wanting to be boxed in. j. Paid Electronic Copies 17,004 18,520
k. Total Paid Print Copies (line 15c) 889,287 905,479
By Jessica Chia Tommy x Zendaya jacket, + Paid Electronic Copies
l. Total Print Distribution (Line 15f) 1,194,912 1,223,945
92 All Points East. turtleneck, and earrings. + Paid Electronic Copies
Could injectables be Makeup colors: Hypnôse m. Percent Paid (Both Print & 74.42% 73.94%
Electronic Copies)
5-Color Eyeshadow Palette
the next K-beauty export? 7. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete.
in Bleu Hypnôtique, Le (Signed) David Geithner, Vice President and Treasurer
By Devon Abelman Monochromatique in S’il Vous
96 The Best Spas in the Plait, and L’Absolu Rouge ALLURE IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC.
Ruby Lipstick in Vintage Ruby COPYRIGHT © 2019 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
World. The six beauty VOLUME 29, NO. 11. December 2019/January 2020 issue. ALLURE (ISSN 1054-7711)
by Lancôme. Photographed is published monthly by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine
destinations that will change Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: Condé Nast, One World Trade Center, New
by Miguel Reveriego. Fashion York, NY 10007. Roger Lynch, Chief Executive Officer; David E. Geithner, Chief
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STEVEN PAN

MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO,


18 Cover Look DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER
UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS,
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114 One More Thing MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

4 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


DULL, TIRED SKIN?
FLIP THE SWITCH.
MEET NEW BRIGHT BOOST.
Powered by dullness-fighting Neoglucosamine.
Boosts cell turnover by 10x* for instantly brighter skin.
*Surface Cells, In Laboratory Studies ©J&JCI 2019
MICHELLE LEE SUSAN D. PLAGEMANN CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD
JONATHAN NEWHOUSE
EDITOR IN CHIEF CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER
WORLDWIDE EDITIONS
CREATIVE DIRECTOR NATHALIE KIRSHEH HEAD OF MARKETING KIMBERLY FASTING-BERG
France: AD, AD Collector, Glamour,
EXECUTIVE BEAUTY DIRECTOR JENNY BAILLY HEAD OF SALES, BEAUTY LUCY KRIZ
GQ, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Vogue Collections,
DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS AMANDA MEIGHER HEAD OF SALES, FASHION – INTERNATIONAL
Vogue Hommes
DAVID STUCKEY
Germany: AD, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, Vogue
BE AUT Y & FASHION HEAD OF SALES, FASHION – AMERICAN
India: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vogue
DEPUTY BEAUTY DIRECTOR ELIZABETH SIEGEL AMY OELKERS
Italy: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, Experienceis,
FASHION DIRECTOR RAJNI JACQUES HEAD OF SALES, MEDIA/ENTERTAINMENT
Glamour, GQ, La Cucina Italiana, Vanity Fair,
DIRECTOR OF CONTENT DEVELOPMENT SOYINI DRISKELL BILL MULVIHILL
Vogue, Wired
SENIOR BEAUTY FEATURES EDITOR COTTON CODINHA DOUG GRINSPAN
HEAD OF SALES, BIZ/FI/TECH
Japan: GQ, Rumor Me, Vogue, Vogue Girl,
SENIOR WRITER BRENNAN KILBANE HEAD OF SALES, VICELAURA SEQUENZIA
Vogue Wedding, Wired
BEAUTY EDITOR PAIGE STABLES HEAD OF SALES, LUXURY RISA ARONSON
Mexico and Latin America:
ASSISTANT EDITOR KATHLEEN SUICO HEAD OF SALES, CPG JORDANA PRANSKY
AD Mexico, Glamour Mexico, GQ Mexico and Latin
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT GABRIELA THORNE HEAD OF SALES, HOME JEFF BARISH
America, Vogue Mexico and Latin America
HEAD OF SALES, HEALTH CARRIE MOORE
Spain: AD, Condé Nast College Spain,
CRE ATIVE HEAD OF SALES, TRAVEL
Condé Nast Traveler, Glamour, GQ, Vanity Fair,
VISUALS DIRECTOR KATHRYNE HALL BETH LUSKO-GUNDERMAN
Vogue, Vogue Belleza, Vogue Colecciones, Vogue
VP, REVENUE – MIDWEST PAMELA QUANDT
ART DIRECTOR SARAH OLIN Niños, Vogue Novias
VP, REVENUE – SAN FRANCISCO
DIGITAL ART DIRECTOR AIMEE SY Taiwan: GQ, Interculture, Vogue
DESIGNER BELLA GERACI
DEVON ROTHWELL
United Kingdom: London: HQ, Condé Nast
VP, ENTERPRISE SALES – LOS ANGELES
ASSOCIATE VISUALS EDITORS College of Fashion and Design,
JOELLE HYMAN, PAIGE VITI DAN WEINER
Vogue Business; Britain: Condé Nast Johansens,
HEAD OF BRAND REVENUE STRATEGY, ALLURE
ASSISTANT VISUALS EDITOR CASSIE BASFORD Condé Nast Traveller, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style,
BOOKINGS DIRECTOR FELICITY WEBB
DEBORAH BRETT
House & Garden, LOVE, Tatler, The World of
VP, FINANCE AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
ENTERTAINMENT EDITOR EUGENE SHEVERTALOV Interiors, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired
BOOKINGS MANAGER MORGAN SENESI
SYLVIA W. CHAN
United States: Allure, Architectural Digest,
VP, BRAND MARKETING
Ars Technica, basically, Bon Appétit,
PRODUCTION/COPY/RESE ARCH JILL STEINBACH FRIEDSON
Clever, Condé Nast Traveler, epicurious, Glamour,
SENIOR BUSINESS DIRECTOR KELLY HWANG
DEPUTY MANAGING EDITORNICOLE STUART GQ, GQ Style, healthyish, HIVE, Pitchfork, Self,
PRODUCTION MANAGER BRENT BURKET FOUNDING EDITOR LINDA WELLS Teen Vogue, them., The New Yorker, The Scene,
COPY DIRECTOR CATHERINE GAMBRELL Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired
COPY MANAGERS LESLIE LIPTON, DAWN REBECKY
PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NAST
RESEARCH DIRECTOR LORI SEGAL PUBLISHED UNDER JOINT VENTURE
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER ROGER LYNCH
RESEARCH MANAGERS Brazil: Casa Vogue, Glamour, GQ, Vogue
CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER & PRESIDENT, INTERNATIONAL
AMBER ANGELLE, CRISTINA RIVERA WOLFGANG BLAU Russia: AD, Glamour, Glamour Style Book,
EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER TAYLOR SHEA GQ, GQ Style, Tatler, Vogue
GLOBAL CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER & PRESIDENT,
U.S. REVENUE P AMELA DRUCKER MANN
ALLURE .COM U.S. ARTISTIC DIRECTOR AND GLOBAL CONTENT ADVISOR
PUBLISHED UNDER LICENSE OR
SAM ESCOBAR COPYRIGHT COOPERATION
DIGITAL DEPUTY DIRECTOR ANNA WINTOUR
SARAH KINONEN Australia: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Living
ASSOCIATE DIGITAL BEAUTY DIRECTOR CHIEF OF STAFF SAMANTHA MORGAN
DIGITAL BEAUTY EDITOR DEVON ABELMAN Bulgaria: Glamour
CHIEF DATA OFFICER KARTHIC BALA
DIGITAL WELLNESS EDITOR ROSEMARY DONAHUE China: AD, Condé Nast Center of Fashion
CHIEF CLIENT OFFICER JAMIE JOUNING
DIGITAL HAIR EDITOR JIHAN FORBES & Design, Condé Nast Traveler, GQ, GQ Style,
DIGITAL PRODUCTION MANAGER MONICA PERRY Vogue, Vogue Film, Vogue Me
IN THE UNITED STATES
DIGITAL STAFF WRITER NICOLA DALL’ASEN Czech Republic and Slovakia:
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER DAVID E. GEITHNER
ASSISTANT EDITOR ANGELA TRAKOSHIS La Cucina Italiana, Vogue
CHIEF PEOPLE OFFICER J O ANN MURRAY
Germany: GQ Bar Berlin
CHIEF COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER JOSEPH LIBONATI
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT Greece: Vogue
CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER – ADVERTISING REVENUE
AND SOCIAL Hong Kong: Vogue
CRAIG KOSTELIC
Hungary: Glamour
DIRECTOR, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT AND SOCIAL EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT – REVENUE MONICA RAY
Iceland: Glamour
LINDSAY SANSONE HEAD CREATIVE DIRECTOR RAÚL MARTINEZ
Korea: Allure, GQ, Vogue
EXECUTIVE VIDEO PRODUCER LAUREN LUMSDEN
Middle East: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ,
COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR JAIME MARSANICO CONDÉ NAST ENTERTAINMENT
Vogue, Vogue Café Riyadh, Wired
SENIOR COMMERCE EDITOR LAUREN SWANSON PRESIDENT OREN KATZEFF
Poland: Glamour, Vogue
ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, SOCIAL MEDIA DANIELLE ODIAMAR EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT – ALTERNATIVE PROGRAMMING
Portugal: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Porto
ASSOCIATE SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER SABRINA CHATLANI JOE L ABRACIO
Romania: Glamour
SUPERVISING VIDEO PRODUCER ANNIE VENEZIA EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT – CNÉ STUDIOS
Russia: Tatler Club, Vogue Café Moscow
MANAGER, ANALYTICS MELISSA HANEY AL EDGINGTON
Serbia: La Cucina Italiana
EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT – GENERAL MANAGER
South Africa: Glamour, Glamour Hair,
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS OF OPERATIONS KATHRYN FRIEDRICH
GQ, GQ Style, House & Garden, House & Garden
JESSICA CHIA, LAUREN D ECARLO, Gourmet
DAVID D ENICOLO, EMILY NEWHOUSE, Thailand: GQ, Vogue
MARCI ROBIN, DAVIAN RODRIGUEZ, The Netherlands:
Condé Nast is a global media company
LIANA SCHAFFNER Glamour, Vogue, Vogue Living, Vogue Man,
producing premium content with a footprint of
more than 1 billion consumers in 31 markets. Vogue The Book
EDITOR AT L ARGE condenast.com Published at 1 World Trade Turkey: GQ, La Cucina Italiana, Vogue
DANIELLE PERGAMENT Center, New York NY 10007. Ukraine: Vogue, Vogue Café Kiev

6 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


BEYOND LONGWEAR,
FRESH WEAR.
BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.™

DUCKIE THOT
©2019 L’Oréal USA, Inc. LUMA GROTHE

INFALLIBLE TO
UP
24HR FRESH WEAR
OUR MOST LIGHTWEIGHT, BREATHABLE LONGWEAR.
FOUNDATION STAYS FRESH HOUR AFTER HOUR.

BUILDABLE
BREATHABLE IN 30
SHADES
TEXTURE

AVAILABLE AT
keep calm
W A N T E D

and carry on
M O S T

AIR TRAVEL CAN DO A NUMBER ON YOUR ROUTINE.


HERE ARE SOME OF THE IN-FLIGHT ESSENTIALS THAT
KEEP ME GLOWY AND PREPARED FOR LANDING.
M I C H E L L E ’ S

1
2

acid and vitamin C save


valuable space. Pro tip:
You can also presoak your
4 own cotton pads in your
favorite serums. $32 to
$38 for 10.

4. CLARE V. MAKEUP
BAG. Keep it all contained
in something cuter than a
plastic baggie. $165.

5. BITE BEAUTY
5 MULTISTICK IN GELATO.
A pretty wash of color
for eyes, lips, and cheeks
in one handy bullet. $24.

1. KITSCH EYE MASK.


7 6. BEAUTYCOUNTER LIP
I’m a terrible airplane CONDITIONER. Lips
sleeper, but a chic satin can feel particularly
mask (and headphones) parched on planes, so I
can help drown out love this balm, formulated
the commotion. $16. with shea butter
and avocado oil. $22.
2. GROWN ALCHEMIST
HAND CREAM VANILLA 7. JURLIQUE SWEET
& ORANGE PEEL. 6 VIOLET & GRAPEFRUIT
On germy planes I wash HYDRATING MIST.
my hands often, so A refreshing, citrus-
this antioxidant-rich hand scented spritz that
cream gets plenty comes in a TSA-friendly
of use. $24 for 65 ml. 50-ml size. $32.
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

3. M-61 HYDRABOOST 8. SLIP SCRUNCHIES.


HA AND VITABLAST C These luxurious silk hair
SERUM PADS. Instead ties won’t tug on or crease
of lugging whole bottles 8 hair, so you can avoid
of serums, these pads bed head while exiting the
presoaked in hyaluronic aircraft. $39 for three.

8 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


BEYOND ROMANCE
RALPH LAUREN

# B E Y O N D R O M A N C E

t h e n e w e a u d e p a r f u m
OU R H IGH EST CO N CE N TRATION
10% PURE GLYCOLIC ACID
‘‘Dermatologists have used Glycolic Acid for decades, especially for dark spots
and wrinkles. Choose a soothing formula with 10% Pure Glycolic Acid and Aloe for
nightly use at home. Use broad-spectrum sunscreen the next morning.’’
DR. JOSHUA ZEICHNER, BOARD CERTIFIED DERMATOLOGIST

©2019 L’Oréal USA, Inc.


NEW

DE RM I NT EN SI V ES
[ 10% PURE GLYCOLIC ACID SERUM ]

NOW VISIBLY EVEN SKIN TONE,


REDUCE DARK SPOTS & WRINKLES

FRAGRANCE
FREE

PARABEN
FREE

DYE FREE

MINERAL
OIL FREE

BUILT ON DECADES OF L’ORÉAL RESEARCH


Revitalift Derm Intensives Serums were
validated in partnership with an advisory
panel of dermatologists who performed a:
• Thorough review of independent
clinical testing protocols and results
• Comprehensive screening of ingredients
to uphold strict formulation standards
OUR HIGHEST CONCENTRATION
1.5% PURE HYALURONIC ACID
‘‘Hyaluronic Acid is a naturally occurring molecule in our skin, but its levels decrease
with age, which impacts how plumped and hydrated our skin looks and feels. When
used at the right concentrations in serums like this one, it can also reduce wrinkles.’’
DR. FLOR MAYORAL, BOARD CERTIFIED DERMATOLOGIST

©2019 L’Oréal USA, Inc.


DE RM I NT EN SI V ES
[ 1.5% PURE HYALURONIC ACID SERUM ]

VISIBLY PLUMP SKIN IN 1 WEEK


& REDUCE WRINKLES

1 SERUM SOLD

FRAGRANCE
FREE

PARABEN
FREE

DYE FREE

MINERAL
OIL FREE

BUILT ON DECADES OF L’ORÉAL RESEARCH


Revitalift Derm Intensives Serums were
validated in partnership with an advisory
panel of dermatologists who performed a:
• Thorough review of independent
clinical testing protocols and results
• Comprehensive screening of ingredients
to uphold strict formulation standards

*Based on units sold in the latest 46 weeks [since launch].


Source: Nielsen Mass Market Data as of September 28, 2019.
CREATED BY ALLURE FOR L’ORÉAL PARIS

YOUR
Skin-Care
SUPERHERO
It’s been recommended by dermatologists for decades to treat lines, dark
spots, and uneven skin tone. So why isn’t everyone and their mother (and
sister, and niece) using it daily? We get it—there’s a lot of skin-care info out
there, and about a bazillion products on the shelves. We’re here to break it
down for you: Glycolic acid is a necessary ingredient to have in your
regimen if you’re looking to reduce wrinkles and dark spots and even
skin tone. Read on to find out what it is, why derms (and Allure editors!)
love it, and how you can get it in your life for a fraction of the cost of the
more expensive serums out there.
CREATED BY ALLURE FOR L’ORÉAL PARIS

TIP: Apply the


serum at night,
and be sure to use
sunscreen, such
as L’Oréal Paris
Revitalift Triple
Power SPF 30
Lotion, in the
morning— your
skin will be more
sun-sensitive the
next day.

ALLURE’S GUIDE TO
GLYCOLIC ACID
(AND THE ONE MUST-HAVE PRODUCT YOU CAN USE DAILY!)

WHAT IT IS: A kind of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), like lactic Glycolic Acid Serum. Don’t be scared about the word
acid, with the smallest molecules of any of its brethren. “acid”—go ahead and add this potent new serum to
That’s a great quality to have in a skin-care ingredient, your routine. It has the highest concentration of glycolic
because it means the formula can go into your skin to acid you can get at home. It’s safe for all skin types,
do its powerful smoothing, resurfacing work. even sensitive, thanks to skin-soothing aloe. And for only
$23.99 a bottle, it’s one of the most cost-effective things
WHAT IT DOES: Glycolic acid is first and foremost an you can do for your skin.
exfoliator, which means it resurfaces your skin by removing
dead and hyperpigmented cells from the surface of skin, WHY YOU SHOULD TRUST IT: Glycolic acid is one of the
leaving fresh, radiant skin behind. And you won’t have top skin-care ingredients recommended by dermatologists.
to use it for months on end before seeing results: With In fact, before adding any product to the Derm Intensives
L’Oréal Paris’s new formula, dark spots can be visibly line, L’Oréal Paris meets with five top derms to validate the
reduced starting in as little as two weeks, and fine lines ingredients, formula, and product efficacy. After evaluating
and wrinkles in four (talk about multitasking!). And the L’Oréal Paris’s third-party testing protocols and results, the
longer you use the serum, the better results you’ll see. derms unanimously have to give the thumbs up in order
to grant L’Oréal their seal of approval. And if that sounds
HOW TO GET IT: Next time you’re in the skin-care good to you, check out the other products in the Derm
aisle at your local supermarket or drugstore, look for Intensives line, like the best-selling 1.5% Pure Hyaluronic
L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Derm Intensives 10% Pure Acid Serum.
E D I T O R

scents memory
T H E

When I first started at Condé Nast more than


F R O M

20 years ago, I was an intern at Glamour at 350


Madison Avenue. Four years ago, when I walked
back into the company’s offices for my first day
at Allure—this time at 1 World Trade Center—I
was struck by a familiar scent. In an entirely dif-
L E T T E R

ferent building in an entirely different decade,


I was immediately drawn back to memories of
those early days. I don’t think it’s one particular
fragrance per se, but rather a sweet blend of hun-
dreds of perfumes in the beauty closets of differ-
ent magazines wafting through the hallways.
It’s no secret that scent has a powerful con-
nection to memory. Unlike sound and touch,
smell is processed in an area of the brain that has
a direct connection to the amygdala, which plays
a role in emotional memories.
Today, when I travel, I try to take advantage of
this. If I’m staying at a hotel that has a signature
candle, I’ll buy one for home. Pro tip: The Edition
hotels have some of the best candles, which were
created in partnership with Le Labo. Whenever I
light mine, it instantly transports me to the time
and place of my stay.
The effect doesn’t have to arise from a resort’s
signature scent. When I was in Spain this summer,
we sun-dried our own sea salt in Majorca, then
went to a little shop near where we ate dinner
to buy flor de sal harvested from the same Ses
Salines salt flats. When I popped open the can-
ister back at home, my kids shouted, “It smells
like Majorca!” Every morning I sprinkle a few of
the chunky crystals on my eggs and have a little
Spanish vacation.
In Tokyo last summer, my daughter and I
treated ourselves one afternoon to tea at the
Peninsula hotel. Now, the scent of not only jas-
mine tea but also jasmine fragrances brings me
half a world away to that fancy dining room, nib-
bling on tiny sandwiches and cakes.
Our out-of-office issue celebrates global
beauty in all its rich diversity. If the essence of
travel is discovery, the thrill of new experiences,
then collecting those memories is one of its last-
ing rewards. Sometimes the best way to go is to
follow your nose.
EMILY LIPSON

16 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


L O O K

THE ELEMENTS OF BEAUTY Lancôme’s Hypnôse


5-Color Eyeshadow Palette in Bleu Hynôtique (left) and
the brand’s L’Absolu Rouge Ruby Cream Lipstick in
Vintage Ruby and Le Monochromatique cheek (or eye,
or even lip!) color in S’il Vous Plait (below).
C O V E R

had put together a mood-


board—a skeleton of what they
wanted us to accomplish—but
Makeup artist they allowed us to apply our
Sheika Daley own interpretation. Zendaya,
applies finishing Law [Roach, the fashion styl-
touches
as Zendaya’s
ist], Sheika, and I looked at dif-
assistant ferent shapes. Zendaya has a
protects her great eye. She’d say, ‘Okay, let’s
from the sun. do it this way, let’s add this.’”
Daley: “They wanted us to
home in on the ’70s, so we
pulled up some references
from that era, and we all liked
these color-washed eyes. I
custom-made this color that fit
her skin tone and the clothes.
I’m all about customization—I
never use anything right from
the pan—so we blended a few
shadows together for the eye.

ready for
Then the blush—it was major.
We wanted it to be more of
Madonna, pop era, Cyndi Lau-
per, where they wore their
blush in the contour of their
cheeks rather than the apple.

FROM TOP LEFT: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; MIGUEL REVEREIGO; COURTESY OF BRAND; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (3)
I mixed a few—a fuchsia base,
adding pink and peach as a
gradient up toward the eyes.”
About an hour and a half east Sims: “I think the edginess and
of Venice Beach, beneath OTT of the hair lends itself to
the imposing gaze of Mount that super blue lid. Sheika and
I sometimes push each oth-
er’s buttons, but I’ll always ask
her what she thinks. For the
look before this one, we had
a big, kind of deconstructed
Mohawk. And then, using spray
and pins, we just flattened it.
That was actually Zendaya’s
idea. So I pulled it out on the
sides, almost into a triangle. I
got the wig custom-made just
for this, but her natural hair tex-
down the day for us. ture has this sheen to it. I used
a hair oil and Osis+ hair spray.”
Daley: “We really have grown
with Zendaya. When I met
her, she was 15 years old and
BAGGAGE CHECK had a baby face. She’s really
Two of our favorite accessories coming into her own now. Her
from Zendaya’s capsule collection
with Tommy Hilfiger. (The
face has changed; her body
being around family.” look she wears on the cover is a has changed.”
limited-run sample, but these Sims: “She’s such a chameleon
are available now.) Details, see and a risk-taker. Fearless. And
allure.com/credits.
she’s not afraid of looking awk-
ward, either. [Laughs.]”

18 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


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FROM TOP: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; ADAM KATZ SINDING/COURTESY OF BOBBI BROWN; COURTESY OF BOBBI BROWN
The sky’s the limit
with vivid shadows
like ColourPop
Pressed Powder
Shadow in Take
Flight (top right) and
Bobbi Brown Luxe THIS SEASON’S
Eye Shadow Rich
FORECAST
We’re all in favor of dressing for the weather you
want, not the weather you have—or at least match-
ing your makeup to it. These surreal, dreamy looks at
Mansur Gavriel’s fall 2019 presentation were created
by makeup artist Romy Soleimani, who thinks the
looks work because of “the juxtaposition of painterly
eyes with fresh, glowing skin.” Once you decide on
the weather you want to wear, use a tiny brush with
a tiny amount of product on it, says Soleimani. Here,
she layered powder shadows and MAC Acrylic Paint.
Don’t overthink it, though: It’s fun, inspired, and right
as rain (or shine). —PAIGE STABLES

20 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


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R E P O R T E R 1

BRILLIANT THINKING
Like many Latinxs, I love beauty—bright, bold, fragrant beauty—as
much as I love dancing. (In other words: a lot.) So while I’m not
surprised to see more and more vibrant Latinx-owned beauty brands
come across my desk, I’m definitely thrilled. Here are stars from four
of my favorites: 1. ALAMAR COSMETICS COLORETE BLUSH TRIO IN DARK/
RICH. These silky powders have major color payoff—and we love them 2
on our lids as much as our cheeks. 2. MOMIJI EYE SHINE BRIGHTENING
EYE PATCHES. Scoop out one of these serum-soaked patches
3
to depuff (with caffeine) and moisturize (with ceramides) that delicate
B E A U T Y

undereye area for an at-home spa day. 3. VERVAN ALMOND & LAVENDER
HAND CREAM. An unlikely pairing, lavender and almond essential
oils combine to create a soothing scent that won’t overwhelm. And
4
the formula itself is rich but sinks in quickly. 4. REINA REBELDE REBEL
EYE DEFINER LIQUID IN BONITA BANDERA. Ditch the black eyeliner
and grab this indigo one. The fine-tip applicator lets you create a
whisper of a line or a powerful cat eye. —GABRIELA THORNE

lo and behold

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (5); DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/GETTY IMAGES; MARK MAINZ/GETTY IMAGES; COURTESY OF BRAND
Jennifer Lopez has had a stellar year. There was her global tour, the starring
role in Hustlers, that little runway moment in a very familiar green dress.
And then she released a new fragrance—her 25th. So we thought we’d see
how this new scent, Promise, compares to the Glow that started it all.

Glow
by JLo
NAMESAKE

Lopez was hoping to Inspiration struck at a dinner


capture the “scent of bare, with billionaire investor Warren
glowing skin warmed by Buffett. “He said, ‘A brand is a
the heat of the body.” promise,’ and that resonated
with me,” Lopez told us.

BOTTLE SERVICE
With the bottle’s long, thin neck The multifaceted cut glass and
and full base, not to mention rose-gold cap have a weightiness
dangling charm akin to a belly that brings to mind the ultimate
chain, the nod to the curves of promise—a diamond ring.
a body cannot be missed.

TAKING NOTES
Pear, jasmine, sandalwood,
and vanilla and amber

WORD ON THE STREET


“I picture someone sexy in “It’s sweet and a bit thick. Like
a bouclé jacket—not Chanel,
but still one you’d wear to
dress up.” —Elise Keeney,
test at a Manhattan bar for our digital strategy director, whom
Smell This column. we spritzed on the wrist.

22 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


oud la la
R E P O R T E R

Close your eyes and think of


the Middle East. Think of the
mosques and the deserts, the
mezze, hammams, and mar-
kets. Inhale (your eyes are
still closed, by the way). That
B E A U T Y

scent? That warm, heady scent


you’re imagining? It’s oud.
Known colloquially as “liquid
gold” (it can sell for $1,000 an
ounce), the fragrant resin of
oud is what happens when the
Southeast Asian aquilaria tree
is infected with a certain fun-
gus. For centuries fragrance
has played a fundamental role
in dressing in the Middle East,
and oud has remained at the
very core, traditionally applied
behind the ears and at pulse
points and often layered with
other scents. “You can say that
everyone has their own scent
here because everyone is lay-
ering,” says Julien Rasquinet,
a perfumer at International
Fragrances & Flavors’ Fine Fra-
grance Creative Center in Paris.
Now fragrance houses out of
the Arabian Peninsula are using
the scent in their own ways.
Amouage Epic combines oud
with amber musk, and Widian
Delma mixes oud with jasmine
and geranium. Merhis Éclat is a
Clockwise blend of rose, orange blossom,
from top: and amber, assuming you’ll
Amouage layer on oud yourself. “Perfume
Library
in the Middle East is adopting a
Collection
Opus XI, French structure, which is less
Merhis Éclat, animalic, but they still want it
Amouage strong,” says Rasquinet. And
Epic, Widian
understandably so: This is your
Delma, and
Amouage best accessory—you want it to
Beloved. last. —COTTON CODINHA

2. D.S. & DURGA RAMA WON’T 3. L’OR DE SERAPHINE


YOU PLEASE COME HOME. VARANASI. The idea of
Lord Rama, an incarnation of this Diwali-inspired candle came
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

the Hindu god Vishnu, was forced from a trip to Varanasi, India.
into exile from his kingdom. “The notes—musk, florals, and
His people welcomed him back incense—are symbolic of [one
with lamps, hence this creation, of] India’s most important
which smells like the flowers holidays,” says cofounder Dara
indigenous to India. Weiss. —BRENNAN KILBANE
1 2 3

24 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


Anastasia
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(full size)

HIGHLIGHT
THE HOLIDAYS
Anastasia Soare, With
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beauty
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We visited the intersection of
environmental consciousness
and gorgeous fragrances.
Turns out, it’s in London.
Above: the annual
Chelsea Flower
Show. Below,
clockwise from
top left, in their
rubber-band-bound
ton, all fairy tale’d out with wild straw- barb. Or London Poppy, which com- compostable
berries and a tree house. I’ve been in bines the cheery bloom of sunflowers boxes: Floral Street’s
London for about five hours, four of with black amber and tops them off Chypre Sublime,
Ylang Ylang
which I’ve spent here at the Chelsea with salt spray. But the real draw
Espresso, London
Flower Show. And so far, I’ve learned might be that you can actually smell Poppy, and Wild
this much: The Brits love their gar- these fragrances on the skin for more Vanilla Orchid.
dens. And Floral Street, a new-to-the- than 15 minutes. They endure. That’s Far left: a bottle of
Iris Goddess.
U.S. British fragrance company, loves because each bottle contains 20
gardens too. Enough that its perfumes percent perfume oil, which is on the
aren’t just botanically inspired. Each very high end (eau de parfums typi-
glass bottle is sold in a pulp box that cally range between 15 and 20). The
can be recycled or composted. And Chelsea Flower Show only lasts a few
the body washes and creams (for now, days and then the flowers find new
only the perfumes are available in the homes. But Floral Street’s storefront,
U.S.) come in candy-colored tubes in the cobblestone district Covent
made from a recyclable by-product Garden, stays in full bloom all year.
of sugar cane production. For better —JESSICA CHIA
or worse, this level of sustainability in

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: GETTY IMAGES (5); JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (2)
packaging is so novel to the perfume
industry that Floral Street won an
innovation award from the Fragrance
Foundation this year.
Inside, the goods are equally
impressive. The nine scents were
created by perfumer Jerome Epinette

28 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


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R E P O R T E R

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Rachel Brosnahan has taken the couch-sitting public by storm and
spoiler alert
B E A U T Y

has the hardware to prove it—she’s won an Emmy and two FAST FACIAL
Golden Globes for her performance in The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel. I love a mask, but I
We talked to her about drugstore beauty, the fight for don’t always have time
equality in Hollywood, and, of course, high school wrestling. for one. That’s why
the Kate Somerville
ExfoliKate Intensive
On gaining confidence: On drugstore buys: soft. And I’m obsessed Exfoliating Treatment
“In high school, I “I’ve been using Cetaphil with Maybelline New York fits perfectly into my
convinced my parents Gentle Skin Cleanser Mega Plush Volum’ Express world. I massage the
to let me try wrestling. I [below right] since I was Mascara. It has a fat, slime-green formula
loved how strong I felt and 16. [Brosnahan is now caterpillar-looking brush, on my face in the
how difficult the workouts a spokesperson for the and it does everything. It’s shower—the steam
were. It was the hardest brand.] When I travel my like wearing false lashes.” helps it work—and
thing I’ve ever done. skin gets dry, so I use it the mix of physical
On keeping up
And it was one of the without water and take (silica) and chemical
appearances: “While I’m
earliest examples I have it off with a cotton pad. (AHAs and fruit
working on Maisel, we have
of men and women being It leaves my skin really enzymes) exfoliators
a manicurist who comes
capable of the same kinds gently sloughs away
once a week, so my nails are
of things, no matter what dead skin. It also
in the best shape they’ve
anyone says.” has honey and aloe
ever been in. On my own,
I would never have time to to soothe, so my
get a manicure once a week. sensitive skin doesn’t
I’ll paint my own nails with get irritated. After

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: VICTORIA STEVENS/AUGUST IMAGES; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; COURTESY OF BRANDS (3)
Essie Chinchilly [below left].” letting it sit for two
minutes, I rinse it off
On experimenting: “I used and my complexion is
to be very intimidated by noticeably brighter.
beauty. But recently I’ve —KATHLEEN SUICO
enjoyed playing with lipstick.
The January Allure Beauty
In the morning, throwing on
Box includes Kate Somerville
a bold lip can make you look ExfoliKate Intensive
more awake and also feel Exfoliating Treatment along
more awake.” with six other products. ($10
for the first month, then $15;
On doing the work: “We’re allure.com/beautyreporter)
having a resurgence of the
conversation surrounding
women’s rights. And it’s
important for me to choose
NICE AND EASY:
projects that include that as “I like to keep my skin-care
a theme. TV is doing a great routine really, really simple.
job showing intimate and I love Vintner’s Daughter
fulfilling female friendships, Active Botanical Serum. I like
that you can use it with
but I think that film and or without a moisturizer.”
theater have some catching
up to do.” —COTTON CODINHA

30 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


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JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

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32 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


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FROM TOP: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; COURTESY OF BRAND

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blowout and somehow leave with their hair
still looking good. That is, until I became one of
them. It was all thanks to five words: Dove’s
GoActive Dry Shampoo Wipes. These single-use,
biodegradable wipes are perfect for that post-
workout moment when roots are too damp for
dry shampoo but not dirty enough to wash. I blot
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and around the nape of my neck—to absorb
oil and reduce odor. All that’s left is a light floral
scent...and a very intact blowout. —K. S.

34 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


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I N F L U E N C E

la vie en
jeanne
O F

MEET THE INFLUENCER WHO HAS TURNED A NARROW


S P H E R E

FRENCH BEAUTY IDEAL INTO A LUCRATIVE BUSINESS,


EXPORTING A SPECIFIC EUROPEAN LIFESTYLE TO THE REST
OF THE WORLD. IF THAT SOUNDS PROBLEMATIC TO
YOU, YOU MIGHT WANT TO LOOK AT THE WORLD THROUGH
JEANNE-COLORED GLASSES. BY BRENNAN KILBANE

GROOMING: ELISE DUCROT. SITTINGS EDITOR: MARINE BRAUNSCHVIG.

Ever the brand


advocate, Damas
wears Rouje’s Le
Velours lip color in
Hélène, Le Vernis
nail polish in
Effrontée, and the
Rosalie dress.

photographed by crista leonard


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“It was not the plan,” says Damas, wearing a blazer that
I N F L U E N C E

is both too large and fits perfectly, smoking a cigarette


(again) at a café beneath the woolly sky of Paris. “I did not
study fashion. But my…parcours?”
The English word escapes her, so she turns to her agent

f
to clarify.
“Your career path?” he offers.
“Yeah. My way? It’s because...of people I meet?” She’s
looking for an English word that escapes her. Then she
pouts. “I want to speak French!”
Damas confides many times that she is sensitive about
her English, which is in fact spoken so beautifully that one
O F

is tempted to prevent her from learning the rest of the lan-


guage. Her vowels are bright, round pearls strung together
into sentences. Big ideas are described in simple terms—
S P H E R E

“great” and “fast”—and simple ideas are conveyed mean-


rench girls! They ride their bikes to ingfully, like when she describes a designer’s taste as his
le marché and buy le pain and maybe “envy,” her speech as ornate and precise as lace. The found
a little vin rouge for dinner avec leurs poetry of non-English speakers speaking English.
copines, and then they go on long Damas was born in Paris to two restaurateurs—the fam-
walks, maybe smoke a cigarette (for ily lived above their brasserie, using its sprawling kitchen
that is how they maintain the silhou- to cook their meals. Petite Jeanne spent a lot of time in the
ette of la baguette), and gyms are so restaurant, which was a favorite of people in the Parisian
américaine, non? French girls simply fashion world. “I was talking really a lot,” Damas says, her
wake up looking like they are about English held together by syrup-coated syllables. “They were
to roll into an Agnès B. campaign: lips red but not too red, calling me a”—she looks to her agent—“poissonnière?”
bangs hanging over eyebrows, which are never plucked, A fishmonger!
are you kidding? Ze French girls simply do not care! And “Because you know, in the market. Ah, my fish!” She
as a result, we, the non-French girls, care very much, and waves toward the street, mimicking somebody drawing a
French girls are reaping our investment to the tune of tri- crowd’s attention, dazzling them into a transaction.
pling profits year over year. C’est vrai! “And I was also so—I’m really a girl’s girl, like a...sorority is
“You ask about financials?” Jeanne Damas asks. Her really important. I was never jealous of girls, but more admi-
lips, honest to God, form a perfect heart shape around the rative of girls. I think it’s really important to help [the h in help
filter of a hand-rolled cigarette. She takes the duration of completely disappears] each other [“eech uzzer”]. It was
an inhale to consider divulging specific numbers about really important to...rencontre. How do you say rencontre?”
her business, and her answer finally arrives in a plume of She means to meet, but maybe more like to bond?
smoke she exhales into the brisk Parisian afternoon: “It’s About 10 years ago, pre-Instagram, Damas began
really great. And fast.” doing her bonding with fellow fashion folk on Tumblr.
How great and how fast? The specifics of Damas’s busi- At the time, she was documenting her life in Paris, and
ness are not disclosed. But in 2016, the model and influ- most of the photos archived online depict intimate, gos-
encer launched her own fashion brand, Rouje, as in rouge, samer scenes with friends and without context—snap-
as in red, as in the shade of lipstick (the j is for Jeanne). shots that we would liken to “moods” or “vibes” had we
And last year, Rouje launched beauty, with a best-selling lip possessed that vernacular in 2009. By the time she began
product that retails for more than twice the price of a tube Instagramming in 2012, Damas was a Paris fashion-scene
of MAC Ruby Woo, and three days prior to our meeting, fixture. And then America found her.

It
Rouje opened its first store—with an adjoining restaurant—
not far from the cartographic center of Paris. Business has, is difficult to pinpoint exactly when the fascina-
according to Damas, nearly tripled every year since the tion with French-girl everything became a raison
brand’s conception—without one euro of outside invest- d’être. French fashion arrived on the global stage
ment. So yes, business is really great. And fast! toward the middle of the 20th century, dovetail-
In her native country, Damas is what is known as an ing with the French New Wave movement, whose
It girl, a term applied to a gorgeous young person who stars (Brigitte Bardot, Anouk Aimée, Anna Karina) still com-
is gorgeous and young, and whom magazines love to prise the pantheon of French-girl-ness. Besides their thin-
interview about their personal routines, and whom fash- ness and their whiteness and their alpine cheekbones and
ion designers love to dress up in their clothes, and whom their clearly delineated lower lashes, the physical charac-
non-Its find pleasure in observing. In America, Damas is a teristics of each vary (slightly!), which creates the illusion
French It girl, patron saint of a particular beauty ideal: that of embracing individual beauty that has underscored the
of the French girl. And it’s a quantifiable export. Alongside myth of the French girl ever since. It’s aspirational but
France, America and the U.K. comprise Rouje’s largest accessible, like everything else we are buying in 2019.
markets, with Japan trailing just behind. Damas entered the American influencer market as its
If there are obvious arguments to problematize the French ambassador. Harper’s Bazaar, 2015: Damas issues
whole French-girl obsession—particularly that it upholds her first American proclamation on French-girl beauty. W,
a Eurocentric standard of beauty—it’s either lost on or 2017: “Model Jeanne Damas embodies the effortlessly chic
ignored by Rouje’s ravenous public. It is true that in 2019, French girl look.” (This was published around the time that
there are more consumer options than ever for people “French beauty” hit its search peak, according to Google
who do not fit the mold of a young woman whose every Trends.) Refinery29, the same year: “She doesn’t fix her hair
physical attribute is young, thin, and straight. But that part because she doesn’t have to.... She smokes, she drinks, she
earlier about Rouje’s profits tripling every year for the last swears.” In 2019, Damas was interviewed for Vogue about
three years? Also true. Los Angeles, a city in which she does not live. “My favorite

42 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


yslbeauty.com
Lift here to experience
MON PARIS
I N F L U E N C E
O F
S P H E R E
Damas in
(of course)
lip-to-
sweaterdress
Rouje

landmark to visit is the Hollywood sign,” she discloses. “Is French girl’s silhouette? Always sylphlike. Her hair never
there anything more iconic?” Done, but always done.
Of course, Damas is well aware that she is a walking Damas’s hair is the color of 1.2 million Instagram fol-
American consumer fetish in the same way that a CEO has lowers, with bangs that lounge across her forehead like
a financial obligation to examine their success in a foreign babes on holiday. Her lips are painted with 2.2 million
market. “It’s a cliché,” Damas says, shrugging. “But we play YouTube views, and her cheeks are flushed with 60,000-
with this cliché. It’s because of it that I have success.” In plus likes. She is dressed head to toe in Rouje: a thick red
the same breath, she warns that all Parisians are not the sweater tucked into high-waisted jeans and underlined
same, let alone all French people. Indeed, Paris has one with brown croc-embossed boots. Everything Rouje is
of the largest concentrations of immigrants in Europe Jeanne, and vice versa: Shoppers are not buying a pair
today—about 20 percent of the population (double that of jeans or a lipstick—they are buying jeans cut to the
is second-generation). In the country as a whole, that precise geometry of her hips, they are buying the ideal
number is closer to 10 percent, or 6 million people. But balance of red and blue tones to complement her com-
diversity is not the French-girl construct that sells. The plexion, down to the freckles dusted across her nose like
girl that sells has roots in the Marais, not Morocco. Just cinnamon on a café au lait. “The idea is to do my perfect
over 40 percent of France today is overweight, but the closet every year,” she says.

DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020 ALLURE 45


In
I N F L U E N C E
ADVE RTISE ME NT
1912, the Galeries effortlessness, as if they were simply
Lafayette was estab- inherited from an impossibly chic
lished in Paris’s 9th aunt, as opposed to being vulgarly
arrondissement, purchased in pursuit of vanity.
its broad windows In February, Rouje will launch its
designed to bathe first mascara, a product that I am not
the merchandise in sunlight, a allowed to observe but that appears
magnificent Art Nouveau cathedral on the lashes of Aubier, which shoot
to trap the awe of incoming cus- toward me from across a large
tomers, and thousands of items wooden table.
O F

to peruse under one roof. More

At
than a century later and less than a Damas’s office, the
mile away, Rouje is a sparse, white- scene is remarkably
washed shrine to Damas—her tastes similar to that of an
S P H E R E

and whims packaged for sale and American startup—


merchandised in situ, her lifestyle young people staring into Mac-
captured down to her favorite Books at shared tables, speaking
meals, which shoppers can inhale quietly. At one point, Damas walks
in exchange for a moderate price at over to snap a photo of an upcom-
the shop’s restaurant. ing collection before disappearing
Rouje’s beauty line, of course, is into an adjacent room to help out
designed exclusively as a wardrobe the styling team by standing in as
for Damas—a gradient of reds (but their fit model.
only those she would wear) that exist One decade ago, when Damas
both in bullet form and distilled into was 17, fashion lines were designed
quadrisected palettes so you have by people who had years of techni-
to use your finger to apply them, cal experience, and lifestyle brands
which is very much by design. The were founded by Academy Award
effect of blotting lipstick on with winners. Damas’s qualifications are
a finger gives it a matte quality, so fewer: She is radiant, and charming,
the finishes of each product do not and stylish, and extremely successful
buckle under the brightest of lights. by any metric.
Innovations in makeup have tended Damas hypothesizes that her
toward the luminescent, but accord- success comes from her honesty.
ing to Hélène Aubier, who heads up “I’m living in Paris, and I didn’t fake
Rouje’s beauty team, the brand will it. I think also I’m really authentic. I’m
only adopt new technology where really me. And I never change my
it intersects with Damas’s interests. style, I never follow trends, so people
An ink-style lip product with a velvet like that, I think. Also I think I have—I
finish, then, happily launched this don’t know if it’s a talent, but I know
fall. “[Manufacturers] won’t show I have a talent for communication. I
me glitter or sparkling products,” also do photos, and I think I have an
Aubier gravely assures me. “They eye. I don’t know how I get it, maybe
know Rouje.” Their best-selling prod- with the restaurant, with my life, with
ucts are Damas’s red lipstick and the people I met.”
Damas’s palette of red lipsticks. The Late afternoon reaches across
products are also dressed in gold, Paris as Damas and I say goodbye.
vintage-looking, Deco packaging I ask her a banal reporter’s ques-
designed to look like heirlooms, tion, the kind you throw out and
accessing yet another valence of don’t expect much in return: “What
are you reading?” She tells me
she’s just finished Stefan Zweig’s
Marie Antoinette: The Portrait of an

“It’s a cliché. Average Woman, which served as


the basis for the 1938 film. As the

But we play
title suggests, the book argues that
Antoinette was not inherently good
or evil, but an ordinary person thrust
with this cliché. into extraordinary political signif-
icance. Her crown was handed to

It’s because her like a gift, Zweig writes, and


she accepted it without question

of it that I have and without gravity: “She wanted


to combine two things which are, in
actual human experience, incompat-
Shop our unparalleled
photography collection.

success.” ible. She wanted to reign and at the


same time to enjoy.” Et voilà.
Use code Allure25 for 25% off

CondeNastCollection.com
46 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020
Images© Condé Nast Archive. All Rights Reserved.
office

W E L L N E S S
M O D E R N
space
ASK ANYONE WHO COMMUTES TO AN OFFICE OR SITS IN A CUBICLE ALL DAY IF
THEY’D RATHER WORK FROM HOME AND YOU’LL GET A RESOUNDING “HELL, YEAH.” BUT
IS IT REALLY THE HOLY GRAIL OF EMPLOYMENT? TWO OF OUR COLLEAGUES TELL ALL.

Traditional office plans of the last century—a mishmash spaces. But what if working smarter and better meant you
of private offices and cubicles—are actively being decon- never had to change out of your pajamas? According to the
structed and retrofitted with open-plan workspaces. The U.S. Census Bureau, 8 million people worked from home in
setup, which may include those grab-any-one-you-want “hot 2017—and some studies show a dramatic rise in productivity.
desks” and designated meeting rooms, is meant to encour- For our out-of-office issue, we decided to test the theory.
age collaboration and discourage hierarchy. And, let’s not Do those lucky work-from-home folks have an advantage?
forget, save employers lots of money by squeezing more Or do they eat pie all day and forget how to interact with
employees into a tighter space. It’s why in many cities you’ll fellow humans? We asked two of Allure’s own to discuss the
SARAH OLIN

find a trendy coworking space on just about every corner. In psychological and physical pros and cons of never coming
fact, a recent survey estimated that by 2020, almost 2.2 mil- to the office, and of course they did so via their preferred
lion people worldwide are expected to work from coworking mode of communication, our instant messaging system.

DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020 ALLURE 49


David DeNicolo 10:23 a.m.
HOW DARE YOU!!! But that’s fair.

Danielle Pergament 10:25 a.m.


So what do you wear on a typical
workday?

David DeNicolo 10:26 a.m.


I would call it ’90s athleisure: running
pants, black T-shirt, gray hoodie.

Danielle Pergament 10:28 a.m.


Sometimes I forget I’m not invisible.
Yesterday the dog walker walked in and
I was in my underpants.

David DeNicolo 10:29 a.m.


That has happened to me. Boxers going
out to check the mail.
I LOVE the physical freedom. One time, I
have been called into a meeting and decided to do
shown to help some squats. All of a sudden the meeting
creativity,
according to
stopped cold and someone said, “David,
a 2012 study can you please mute your phone? We
published in can all hear you breathing.”
the Journal
of Consumer Danielle Pergament 10:31 a.m.
Research.
I clip my nails in our weekly meeting.

According to David DeNicolo 10:31 a.m.


a 2013 study You can’t overestimate the benefits
published in
of making your own time choices and
PLOS One,
hearing just environment choices.
W E L L N E S S

one side of a I’m a pacer, and I also find that I need dis-
Message Thread
conversation traction in order to be productive.
can be more
distracting than I usually have CNN on low when I’m
Danielle Pergament 10:18 a.m. hearing the working.
So, David, who was president the last whole thing.
time you worked in an office? Danielle Pergament 10:32 AM
Loneliness can Oh, funny. Me, never.
have profound
David DeNicolo 10:19 a.m.
consequences I can’t handle TV sounds and noises.
Full-time? Bill Clinton. on human
Part-time: Obama. health. Julianne Danielle Pergament 10:32 a.m.
M O D E R N

Holt-Lunstadt, a
Are you going to ask what I’m wearing? What’s the longest you’ve gone without
professor of
psychology and
seeing another person?
Danielle Pergament 10:19 a.m. neuroscience at
Yes! But first: Set a scene. Where are you Brigham Young David DeNicolo 10:33 a.m.
sitting? University, I see people every day, in one way or
has found another.
deprivation
David DeNicolo 10:22 AM of social
I’m in my garden room, which is also a interaction to Danielle Pergament 10:35 a.m.
TV room and a spare bedroom, but I call have a mortality Something that’s now occurring to me:
it a garden room because I’m fancy. And risk comparable I don’t know a lot of the people I’m email-
to smoking up ing and messaging every day.
because I have a couple of French gar-
to 15 cigarettes
den prints on the walls. a day. So when they drive me nuts, I don’t have
It’s a soft green. Natural light. a visual.

Danielle Pergament 10:22 a.m.


SARAH OLIN

You sound like a middle-aged man in Color studies equate certain shades with
rural Connecticut. psychological responses. Sunlight can boost
serotonin, red may improve concentration, and
blues may inspire creativity.

50 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


NEXT
LEADING
BRAND LEAKGUARDTM BRAID

MORE THAN
MEETS THE EYE
Itʼs time to ditch the leaks. And get
© Procter & Gamble, Inc. 2019

the protection of our LeakGuard BraidTM.


W E L L N E S S

David DeNicolo 10:36 a.m.


That’s funny. I don’t need a picture to
focus my displeasure.
The challenge for me is that I find
I have to be more careful with the way
I communicate with people since I’m
not in person. I can get rather sarcas-
tic and sometimes people find me
M O D E R N

abrasive, so I do try with people I don’t


know to be a little more careful on
emails or messages.

Danielle Pergament 10:38 a.m.


How long can you go without
snacking? I procrastinate by staring at
the refrigerator.

David DeNicolo 10:38 a.m.


I try to eat a proper lunch. I don’t have
sweets in the house.
So many offices run on sugar and
caffeine.

Danielle Pergament 10:41 a.m.


I also shop. I bought my 119th sports
work it
No matter where you spend your 9 to
bra today. 5—a kitchen table, an ever-changing
Then I’m full of remorse. hot desk, an old-school cubicle—there
are ways to make your space, well, work
But I’m kind of working the whole time.
better for you.
I think I’m 35 percent more productive
from home. Noise-canceling headphones are crucial.
I pulled over while I was driving to write Research shows Even WeWork, the most gung-ho proponent
an increase of shared coworking spaces, promotes them
a list of interview questions. Last night
in self-reported on their website. The ones that use active
I filed all my copy for Allure Beauty Box productivity among
noise-canceling technology eliminate ambi-
at 1:00 a.m. That was a plus in my book. WFH’ers. In a 2015
ent noise, rather than soundproofing. Which
study, employees
means you can still engage in the hum of the
David DeNicolo 10:44 a.m. in Shanghai who
worked from home
shared space when you want to, but tune out
We all know the adage that work when necessary. They sort of do what an office
for two years
expands to fill the time allotted for its reported a 13 door used to: tell your coworkers now is not the
completion. I think that dynamic is mag- percent increase time. It’d be no surprise to anyone who’s had to
nified in an office and is less so at home. in effective endure an open-plan workspace that a Global
performance. Info Research study found that the prevalence
Danielle Pergament 10:45 a.m. of these headphones worldwide will increase
almost 6 percent in the next five years.
My favorite thing about working from
An essential-oil desk diffuser is also more
home is I’m so much more productive.
than a useful tool for combating the aroma of
I’m not fucking around talking to people your coworker’s reheated salmon. “Lemon is
or in meetings I don’t need to be in. really mind-clearing, but if you need to focus,
Honest question: What do you miss try mixing lemon, rosemary, and cypress oils,”
about the office? says Amy Galper, cofounder of the New York
Institute of Aromatic Studies. To channel some
calm, Galper suggests a blend of lavender,
David DeNicolo 10:47 a.m.
frankincense, and red mandarin. Should a desk
I live alone, so I miss the camaraderie. diffuser be on the office’s banned-objects list,
Not gossip or snark or intrigue (yuck), try dabbing a little on pulse points or on a nap-
but making people laugh. Everyone kin and inhaling deeply.
knows that laughter is therapeutic, but Finally, wherever you work, bring in
it also is bonding and makes people plants—they’ve been shown to boost moods
work better as a team. and reduce stress and anxiety—and opt for
a stand-up desk. Alternating between sitting
and standing can help lower blood pressure
Danielle Pergament 10:48 a.m.
and increase heart rate and even help with
Creative people are more creative when
posture-related aches and pains. If installing
they’re around other creative people. It’s a desk that can do both isn’t an option, put
like playing with a better tennis player. your laptop on a shelf or a sturdy stack of
SARAH OLIN

I miss having smart people around. And books to cut back on long stretches of sitting.
high-speed internet.

52 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


ECZEMA: UNDER CONTROL.
SO ROLL UP THOSE SLEEVES.
moderate-to-severe eczema (atopic dermatitis) for people 12 and up.

RHONDA, REAL PATIENT.


Individual results may vary.

DUPIXENT is not a cream or steroid. It’s a biologic that continuously treats


eczema over time—even between flare-ups when skin looks clear. See and
feel the difference with:

Clearer skin ¥ Significantly less itch


• In clinical trials at 16 weeks, 37% of adults and 24% of teens (ages 12-17)
saw clear or almost clear skin vs 9% and 2% not on DUPIXENT.
• And 38% of adults and 37% of teens (ages 12-17) had significantly
less itch vs 11% and 5% not on DUPIXENT.

TALK TO YOUR ECZEMA SPECIALIST AND VISIT DUPIXENT.COM OR CALL 1-844-DUPIXENT (1-844-387-4936)

INDICATION instructed by your healthcare provider. and tell your healthcare provider or to report negative side effects of
DUPIXENT is a prescription medicine This may cause other symptoms that get emergency help right away if you prescription drugs to the FDA. Visit
used to treat people 12 years of age were controlled by the corticosteroid get any of the following symptoms: www.fda.gov/medwatch, or call
and older with moderate-to-severe medicine to come back; are scheduled breathing problems, fever, general 1-800-FDA-1088.
atopic dermatitis (eczema) that is to receive any vaccinations. You should ill feeling, swollen lymph nodes, Use DUPIXENT exactly as prescribed.
not well controlled with prescription not receive a “live vaccine” if you are swelling of the face, mouth and DUPIXENT is an injection given under
therapies used on the skin (topical), treated with DUPIXENT; are pregnant tongue, hives, itching, fainting, the skin (subcutaneous injection). If
or who cannot use topical therapies. or plan to become pregnant. It is not dizziness, feeling lightheaded your healthcare provider decides that
DUPIXENT can be used with or without known whether DUPIXENT will harm (low blood pressure), joint pain, you or a caregiver can give DUPIXENT
topical corticosteroids. It is not known your unborn baby; are breastfeeding or skin rash. injections, you or your caregiver should
if DUPIXENT is safe and effective in or plan to breastfeed. It is not known • Eye problems. Tell your healthcare receive training on the right way to
children with atopic dermatitis under whether DUPIXENT passes into your provider if you have any new or prepare and inject DUPIXENT. Do not
12 years of age. breast milk. worsening eye problems, including try to inject DUPIXENT until you have
Tell your healthcare provider about eye pain or changes in vision. been shown the right way by your
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION all the medicines you take, including The most common side effects in healthcare provider. In children 12 years
Do not use if you are allergic to prescription and over-the-counter patients with atopic dermatitis of age and older, it is recommended
dupilumab or to any of the ingredients medicines, vitamins and herbal include injection site reactions, eye that DUPIXENT be administered by or
in DUPIXENT. supplements. If you are taking asthma and eyelid inflammation, including under supervision of an adult.
medicines, do not change or stop your redness, swelling and itching, and cold Please see Brief Summary on next
Before using DUPIXENT, tell your asthma medicine without talking to sores in your mouth or on your lips.
healthcare provider about all your page.
your healthcare provider.
medical conditions, including if you: Tell your healthcare provider if you
have eye problems; have a parasitic DUPIXENT can cause serious side have any side effect that bothers you or
(helminth) infection; are taking oral, effects, including: that does not go away. These are not all
topical, or inhaled corticosteroid • Allergic reactions (hypersensitivity), the possible side effects of DUPIXENT. © 2019 Sanofi and Regeneron
medicines. Do not stop taking your including a severe reaction known Call your doctor for medical advice Pharmaceuticals, Inc.
corticosteroid medicines unless as anaphylaxis. Stop using DUPIXENT about side effects. You are encouraged All Rights Reserved. DUP.19.07.0597

YOU MAY BE ELIGIBLE FOR AS LITTLE AS A $0 COPAY* *Limitations apply. Visit DUPIXENT.com for full program terms.
Brief Summary of Important Patient Information about DUPIXENT® (dupilumab) Rx Only
(DU-pix’-ent)
injection, for subcutaneous use
What is DUPIXENT? What are the possible side effects of DUPIXENT?
• DUPIXENT is a prescription medicine used: DUPIXENT can cause serious side effects, including:
– to treat people aged 12 years and older with moderate-to-severe atopic • Allergic reactions (hypersensitivity), including a severe reaction known
dermatitis (eczema) that is not well controlled with prescription therapies used as anaphylaxis. Stop using DUPIXENT and tell your healthcare provider or get
on the skin (topical), or who cannot use topical therapies. DUPIXENT can be used emergency help right away if you get any of the following symptoms: breathing
with or without topical corticosteroids. problems, fever, general ill feeling, swollen lymph nodes, swelling of the face,
• DUPIXENT works by blocking two proteins that contribute to a type of mouth and tongue, hives, itching, fainting, dizziness, feeling lightheaded (low
inflammation that plays a major role in atopic dermatitis. blood pressure), joint pain, or skin rash.
• It is not known if DUPIXENT is safe and effective in children with atopic dermatitis • Eye problems. Tell your healthcare provider if you have any new or worsening
under 12 years of age. eye problems, including eye pain or changes in vision.
The most common side effects of DUPIXENT include: injection site reactions,
Who should not use DUPIXENT? eye and eyelid inflammation, including redness, swelling and itching, and cold
Do not use DUPIXENT if you are allergic to dupilumab or to any of the ingredients sores in your mouth or on your lips. Eye and eyelid inflammation, including redness,
in DUPIXENT. See the end of this summary of information for a complete list of swelling and itching have been seen in patients who have atopic dermatitis. Tell
ingredients in DUPIXENT. your healthcare provider if you have any side effect that bothers you or that does
not go away.
What should I tell my healthcare provider before using DUPIXENT? These are not all of the possible side effects of DUPIXENT. Call your doctor for
Before using DUPIXENT, tell your healthcare provider about all your medical advice about side effects. You may report side effects to FDA.
medical conditions, including if you: Visit www.fda.gov/medwatch, or call 1-800-FDA-1088.
• have eye problems
• have a parasitic (helminth) infection General information about the safe and effective use of DUPIXENT.
• are taking oral, topical, or inhaled corticosteroid medicines. Do not stop taking Medicines are sometimes prescribed for purposes other than those listed in a
your corticosteroid medicines unless instructed by your healthcare provider. This Patient Information leaflet. Do not use DUPIXENT for a condition for which it was
may cause other symptoms that were controlled by the corticosteroid medicine not prescribed. Do not give DUPIXENT to other people, even if they have the same
to come back. symptoms that you have. It may harm them.
• are scheduled to receive any vaccinations. You should not receive a “live vaccine” This is a summary of the most important information about DUPIXENT for this use.
if you are treated with DUPIXENT. If you would like more information, talk with your healthcare provider. You can ask
• are pregnant or plan to become pregnant. It is not known whether DUPIXENT will your pharmacist or healthcare provider for more information about DUPIXENT that
harm your unborn baby. is written for healthcare professionals.
Pregnancy Registry. There is a pregnancy registry for women who take For more information about DUPIXENT, go to www.DUPIXENT.com
DUPIXENT during pregnancy. The purpose of this registry is to collect information or call 1-844-DUPIXENT (1-844-387-4936)
about your health and your baby’s health. You can talk to your healthcare provider
or contact 1-877-311-8972 or go to https://mothertobaby.org/ongoing-study/ What are the ingredients in DUPIXENT?
dupixent/ to enroll in this registry or get more information. Active ingredient: dupilumab
Inactive ingredients: L-arginine hydrochloride, L-histidine, polysorbate 80,
• are breastfeeding or plan to breastfeed. It is not known whether DUPIXENT
sodium acetate, sucrose, and water for injection
passes into your breast milk.
Tell your healthcare provider about all of the medicines you take including
Manufactured by: Regeneron Pharmaceuticals, Inc., Tarrytown, NY 10591
prescription and over-the-counter medicines, vitamins, and herbal supplements.
U.S. License # 1760; Marketed by sanofi-aventis U.S. LLC, (Bridgewater, NJ
If you have asthma and are taking asthma medicines, do not change or stop your
08807) and Regeneron Pharmaceuticals, Inc. (Tarrytown, NY 10591)
asthma medicine without talking to your healthcare provider.
DUPIXENT is a registered trademark of Sanofi Biotechnology / ©2019 Regeneron
Pharmaceuticals, Inc. / sanofi-aventis U.S. LLC. All rights reserved.
How should I use DUPIXENT? Issue Date: June 2019
• See the detailed “Instructions for Use” that comes with DUPIXENT for
information on how to prepare and inject DUPIXENT and how to properly
store and throw away (dispose of) used DUPIXENT pre-filled syringes.
• Use DUPIXENT exactly as prescribed by your healthcare provider.
• DUPIXENT comes as a single-dose pre-filled syringe with needle shield.
• DUPIXENT is given as an injection under the skin (subcutaneous injection).
• If your healthcare provider decides that you or a caregiver can give the injections
of DUPIXENT, you or your caregiver should receive training on the right way to
prepare and inject DUPIXENT. Do not try to inject DUPIXENT until you have been
shown the right way by your healthcare provider. In children 12 years of age and
older, it is recommended that DUPIXENT be administered by or under supervision
of an adult.
• If you miss a dose of DUPIXENT, give the injection within 7 days from the missed
dose, then continue with the original schedule. If the missed dose is not given
within 7 days, wait until the next scheduled dose to give your DUPIXENT injection.
• If you inject more DUPIXENT than prescribed, call your healthcare provider
right away.
• Your healthcare provider may prescribe other medicines to use with DUPIXENT.
Use the other prescribed medicines exactly as your healthcare provider tells
you to. DUP.19.08.0101
P H E N O M E N O N
uncommon
goods

A few things
Queen
Elizabeth II
can’t live
without
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

THE BEAUTY LANDSCAPE CAN BE DOG-EAT-DOG. BUT IN GREAT BRITAIN, THERE’S


ONE SURE WAY TO STAND OUT: GET THE QUEEN ON YOUR SIDE. WELCOME TO THE
INCREDIBLY EXCLUSIVE WORLD OF THE ROYAL WARRANT. BY RACHEL MARLOWE

DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020 ALLURE 55


P H E N O M E N O N

If you were a woman of means in Elizabethan England,


your makeup routine probably involved a lot of white lead
and vinegar. Pretty poisonous, sure. But if it’s good enough
for the queen! The British royals have long driven the
beauty scene in their island nation—and more recently,
far beyond it. In 1949, while 19-year-old Princess Margaret
was on holiday in Capri, an Italian journalist broke into her
hotel room to discover, among other things, what nail pol-
ish she used (it was a French brand, Peggy Sage). Princess
Diana helped put blue eyeliner on the map in the ’80s, and
when it was reported that her son’s wife, Kate Middleton,
was a fan of Trilogy Certified Organic Rosehip Oil? The
organic formula from New Zealand sold out on boots.com
in a single weekend. And if you want to understand the
power of Meghan Markle’s beauty choices, just ask British
facialist Sarah Chapman. “[Our brand] awareness in the
States has really grown because of our connection with
her,” says Chapman, who’s looked after Markle’s skin care
since she moved to the U.K.
A royal nod is a royally big deal. Even bigger, though:
the Royal Warrant, an official recognition of compa-
nies that have supplied goods or services to the Royal
Households—today, that means Queen Elizabeth II, the
Duke of Edinburgh (aka Prince Philip), and the Prince of
Wales (their son Charles). Score a warrant and that prod-
uct’s packaging can display the royal coat of arms. “It’s
immediately recognizable [to anyone in the U.K.] and seen
as a mark of a product or service fit for a king or queen,” back to George IV, and 230-year-old pharmacy D.R. Harris
explains a spokesperson for hairbrush maker Kent, holder & Co., which is just a quick walk from Buckingham Palace
of a warrant from nine consecutive monarchs. should the queen run out of triple-milled soap. Newer addi-
The idea dates back to medieval times, when the notion tions include Molton Brown (spoiler alert if you’re a guest
of currying royal favor was something brands would at Balmoral: Apparently there’s a set of Orange & Bergamot
joust for. No, not really. But it got heated. So the Lord hand wash and lotion in every bathroom) and Elizabeth
Chamberlain, as head of the king’s household, formally Arden (the queen is a fan of the brand’s Eight Hour Cream,
appointed the country’s best tradespeople with the honor. and Diana wore its now-discontinued Beautiful Color Lash
Today companies can apply for a Royal Warrant after one Enhancing Mascara in Ocean Blue). Clarins was the last
of the Royal Households has used its wares for at least five beauty company to score a warrant; it was granted by
years. The approval process could take up to a year, and Elizabeth II in 2007. For her coronation in 1953, she commis-
brands need to reapply every five years. If the grantor dies, sioned the Paris-based company to create a shade of lip-
the company must drop the royal arms within 24 months. stick to match her robes; she’s now said to use its Hand and
Currently, out of about 800 total warrant holders, Nail Treatment Cream and Ever Matte Radiant Matifying
there are only 21 health and beauty companies. There’s Powder. Even the French can earn this royal honor—if
Jermyn Street perfumer Floris, which has warrants dating they’re lucky enough to create a royal treatment.

The Next Gen of Royal Warrants?


While the Duchess has been leaning toward also a favorite of sister- $243 marshmallow for her wedding, she
of Sussex may never clean beauty products, in-law Kate. “Apparently herb extract and shea recommended his Meta
officially be a warrant like Ren Clean Skincare [Kate] has three bottles butter formula, and Luxe Hair Spray (4) to
FROM TOP: SARAH OLIN; COURTESY OF BRAND (5)

grantor, she’s definitely Ready Steady Glow on her vanity,” says recommended that line Kate and Camilla? Maybe
a potential warrant Daily AHA Tonic (1), RMS founder Leila Aalam. to Kate. We wonder if, along with one of her
influencer. And since Beauty Living Luminizer Camilla Parker Bowles is after Meghan tapped go-to drugstore picks,
becoming pregnant with (2), and Beuti Skincare a fan of facialist Deborah hairstylist Serge Normant like Maybelline New York
Archie last year, Meghan Beauty Sleep Elixir (3), Mitchell’s Heaven Black Lash Sensational
Bee Venom Mask, a Luscious Mascara (5).

56 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


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B E A U T Y B Y

2 BILLIONS OF STARS. ZILLIONS OF PLANETS. BUT THE QUESTION IS, WHAT WOULD
EXTRATERRESTRIALS REALLY LOOK LIKE? TURNS OUT THERE ARE SOME NUMBERS
FOR THAT TOO. AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT, THEY LOOK A LOT LIKE US. —AMBER ANGELLE

2: Number of wigs sewn


together to create
Martian Girl’s oversize
’60s hairstyle in Mars
Attacks! In an interview
years later, actor Lisa
Marie (right) said the
hairpiece was so heavy
it left her with a scar.

1965: Year the original


pilot for Star Trek was
rejected, partly because
a scantily dressed green
alien—a female actor
covered almost entirely
in layers of Max Factor
greasepaint—was deemed
too erotic for television.

10: Height in inches


of designer Alexander
McQueen’s “Alien” shoes.
Made of 3D-printed resin,
the heels were shaped
to look like human spines,
but from another world.
Reportedly, several models
were too terrified to
wear them on the runway.

13: Length in minutes


of the 1902 film A Trip
to the Moon, likely the first
onscreen depiction of
extraterrestrials, played
by a cast of very limber
French acrobats wearing
insect-like masks.

7,500,000+: Copies
© WARNER BROS/COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION

sold of David Bowie’s


album The Rise and Fall
of Ziggy Stardust and the
Spiders From Mars. As
an extraterrestrial rock
star sent with a message
for Earth, Bowie wears
Japanese Kabuki-style
makeup, a scarlet mullet,
and Lycra jumpsuits.

3: Faces that helped


inspire the look of
Steven Spielberg’s E.T.
His muses? Albert Einstein,
Ernest Hemingway,
and Carl Sandburg.

DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020 ALLURE 61


objects desire This season, we
plucked gift
inspiration from the
colors, architecture,
and eclectic vibe of
our own backyard:
New York City. With
twinkling palettes,
skyscraper heels,
and bags with
the structure of a
suspension bridge,
1
the getting
(and giving) sure is
good—in every
neighborhood.
By Liana Schaffner

of
3

paint the
town
THIS PAGE: SHOT AT MISS LILY’S 7A, NEW YORK CITY.
THESE PAGES: PROP STYLIST, BEATRICE CHASTKA.

foam Beautyblenders,
For the person who has everything under the rainbow (minus the actual rainbow).
plus a quartet of
gem-shaped, lather-
1. Gucci bag. With its every angle. Meanwhile, 4. St. Ives Lip Scrubs producing cleansers for
geometric shape, the jasmine scent inside is in Juicy Watermelon, each one—so now you
color-blocked leather, consistently classic and Sweet Passion Fruit, can give your favorite
and perky top handles, chic. $120. and Fresh Peach. Laced makeup tools the royal
this day bag is artwork with sugar crystals, these treatment. $65.
for your arm. $3,000. 3. SK-II Facial Treatment buttery salves restore
Essence Limited flaky lips, giving them a 6. Nintendo Switch Lite.
2. Mugler Alien Edition Fantasista smooth, just-bitten flush. This handheld gaming
Extraordinary Colors Utamaro. A painterly $4.99 each. device—now only .61
Collector Eau de Parfum. motif on the outside; pounds—makes us want
The bottle’s random a refreshing, skin- 5. Beautyblender The to miss our subway
splashes of color give a plumping essence on Crown Jewels. The stop (and show off our
different effect from the inside. $235. gift box includes four manicure). $199.99.

66 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020 photographed by joyce lee


SHOP AT DSQUARED2.COM

DILLARDÕS MACYÕS
Lift here to experience
WOOD POUR FEMME

Lift here to experience


WOOD POUR HOMME
all calm

G U I D E
is

G I F T
1
Soft pastels and watercolor motifs for the one who loves to escape the holiday bustle.

1. Prada bag. This cheeky


bag strikes all the right
notes: playful, flirty, and
sturdy. $1,750.
2. Apple iPhone 11.
For the stylish techie in
your life: This dual-
camera phone shoots the
sharpest videos (and
post-salon selfies) while
sheathed in the coolest
lavender. $699.

1 3. Tiffany & Love


Fragrance for Her Eau
de Parfum. Who doesn’t
love a little Tiffany
on the neck and wrists?
Basil, grapefruit, and
neroli positively
sparkle on the pulse
points. $105 for 1.7 oz.
4
4. Glow Recipe Glow
Baby Glow Holiday Set.
The beauty equivalent
of an apple a day:
2 Potent fruit extracts help
to boost moisture,
refine pores, and chase
away dullness. $29.

5. Herbivore Botanicals
Jewel Box Mini Facial
Oil + Serum Set. Three
mini facial oils, two
brightening serums,
and a partridge in a pear
tree. Actually, this
kit delivers glowy results
4 with ingredients like
adaptogenic shiitake
3
mushroom and Ayurvedic
Babchi plant—but try
singing that. $58.

6. Saskia Diez earrings.


With colorful beads of
jade and turquoise, these
sinuous earrings are long
on style. $253.
SHOT AT FELIX ROASTING CO., NEW YORK CITY

DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020 ALLURE 69


G U I D E

1
G I F T

2
neutral ground

Clean lines and earthy 1. Pantene Pro-V Intense 2. Bottega Veneta bag. 4. Expressie by Essie
tones for the well- Rescue Shots. Our Rendered in sumptuous Nail Polish in Saffr-on the
kind of stocking stuffer: cream-colored leather, Move, Crop Top &
rounded minimalist.
Packed with lipids, this puffy, quilted bag Roll, and In a Flash Sale.
glycerin, and vitamins, weaves together style The season’s warmest
these little tubes and function. $2,480. coats—rich ocher, a
transform dry winter pink-beige hybrid, and
hair, restoring moisture 3. Natasha Denona burnt orange—all loaded
and sleekness in a flash. Metropolis Eye Shadow with depth. $9 each.
$1.99 each. Palette. A spectrum of 28
new shades, mostly
neutrals, lets you slay
(sleigh?) any look, from
subtle definition to
sultry evening eyes. $129.

70 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


night
G U I D E

Black, white, and ready all over—for the friend who

vision
always comes alive after dark.
G I F T

6 SHOT AT THE ALLEY CAT AT THE BEEKMAN HOTEL, NEW YORK CITY

1. Valentino Uomo Born 2. Shiseido Hanatsubaki 3. Altuzarra sandals. 5. Givenchy Red Lights 6. Guerlain Rouge G
in Roma. The black Hake Polishing Face Strappy heels in zebra Face & Eye Palette. Goldenland Lipstick
ombré bottle studded in Brush. This camellia- stripes let you stand Pumped with silicone and in No. 94 and case
grommets is a gift to his inspired brush is anything high above the party- weightless oils, the four in Wonder Gold. This
nightstand—or her vanity. but garden variety. going herd. $1,595. cushiony shades in this blinged-out case
The sexy, invigorating Each densely packed stunning compact glide conceals a hidden mirror,
mix of ginger and salt “petal” seamlessly blends 4. Edie Parker bag. over lids and play up your turning every touch-up
is universally attractive. powders and liquids. $49. A boxy little bag in bone structure. $63. into a clever party trick.
$95 for 3.4 oz. cherry-red acrylic
$33 for the lipstick; $22
places you squarely in
for the case.
the spotlight. $995.

72 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


The Merch
Store Is Open!
shop.bonappetit.com
Cart (0)

The It’s Alive–Endorsed, Not The We Really Do Put an Don ’t Call It a Millennial
FDA -Endorsed Long-Sleeve

do
ea t n ’t
mer t he
c h!

The Bone Apple Brad’s Ver y Own YE TI


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BA products are now available—oh, how convenient,


it’s the holiday season!—at shop.bonappetit.com. It’s all the stuff
we’d wear ourselves: fancy-schmancy aprons, super
subtle hats, tie-dye shirts, plus totes that hold multiple wine bottles.
G U I D E

1
G I F T

1. Burberry pumps.
2
These mock-croc heels
are trimmed to perfection
with sturdy leather
tassels and sparkly
crystal studs. $1,550.

2. Jenny Packham
earrings. Nothing quite
says “Point me to
the photo booth” like
shimmery fringe
earrings feathering your
neck. $65.

3. Viktor & Rolf


3 Flowerbomb. For the
truly deserving: This
limited-edition
Swarovski-crystal bottle
will last long after the
voluptuous floral bouquet
inside runs out. $1,800
for 100 ml.

4. Paintbox Nail Lacquer


in Like Spark and Like
Future. For the most
dazzling manicure (hands
down), pair high-wattage
4 5 copper with glinting
silver. $40 for both.

5. Lancôme Les
Monochromatiques
Palette. Graduating from
7
palest pink to deepest
6
cranberry, each pearly
shade deposits the
perfect dewy color on
our lids and lips. $34.

6. Kitsch bobby pins.


With gold-colored metal
and a pearl on each
end, bobby pins never
looked so glam. Ditto
for your ponytail. $12
for two.

all glitters
7. Anastasia Beverly Hills
For the one who truly understands that Mini Loose Highlighter
the season is always better with extra sparkle. Set. Move over, myrrh.
We come bearing three

that twinkly powders in


shades of silver and gold.
Each gossamer-fine
formula catches the light
and creates an impact
wherever you
sweep it (eyes, cheeks,
even collarbones). $48.

76 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


B E A U T Y
B A C K G R O U N D

drawing
lines
HER CHIROPRACTIC WORK IS ONE THING, BUT WHEN SHE’S NOT
ADJUSTING THE SPINE, AZRA KHAMISSA IS UPDATING THE CENTURIES-OLD
BODY ART OF HENNA IN HER HOME CITY OF DUBAI. BY SARAH SOULI

78 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020 photographed by tamila kochkarova


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B E A U T Y

a way for women to meet and share. “That’s what I really


love about henna—it brings women together,” she says.
Her hands are her canvases and her tools. Every few “Women don’t need an excuse to get together, but it
months, Azra Khamissa, the 30-year-old Canadian really forces you to stay still for hours to get the design
South African chiropractor-cum-designer, hosts roving and to let it dry.”
B A C K G R O U N D

henna-tattoo sessions in Dubai. She usually chooses Henna has historically served as a way to commu-
a café or a communal space, like in the Dubai Design nicate ideas and status. In some countries, married
District, the glass-plated miniopolis located next to women stain their feet; you can tell when a woman
downtown. But her best work, she says, happens after has been widowed by the paleness of her soles. Last
midnight, in her bedroom, on her own hands, while Net- December, Khamissa posted a design of paint-dipped
flix plays in the background. fingertips, with N on her left palm and O on her right
Khamissa—dressed in billowing stripes, or clad shoul- (below). It was more of a personal reflection on the frus-
ders to toes in Fendi Fs—is a henna artist, though her tration she felt from people not listening—at work, in
path to body art is as zigzag as the designs she makes. friendships, and in day-to-day interactions—but in the
While studying in Australia to become a chiropractor, she middle of #MeToo, the design took on a life of its own.
and her fellow classmates would roll up their sleeves and “‘No means no’ can be translated on so many levels,” she
draw lines on one another to illustrate the muscles and says. “Honestly, just the fact that it was interpreted in so
tendons beneath the skin. many ways was great.”
“I definitely use anatomy in my work. Most of my Khamissa’s designs are immortalized online, but henna
designs are very balanced and symmetrical, just like is unique because it’s temporary. After drying, it lasts
the body is,” she says. Khamissa possesses that special about two weeks, placing it more in the camp of makeup
curiosity that allows her to easily cross disciplines. She than tattoos. But unlike makeup, it disappears over days
is bubbly and talks in a warm, confiding tone, as though and across a spectrum of human emotion.
you’ve been girlfriends for years. It’s easy to see why the “I love that it’s a way of expressing how I feel and I can
waiting list is packed with all sorts of global creatives. embrace that I feel differently over time,” says Khamissa.
Henna is nothing new—it’s an over-5,000-year-old “I feel like this right now, and I’ll express that, and it’ll fade
art form found across North Africa, the Middle East, away.” And yet with such a long history behind it, and a
and southern Asia. Using a paste made from the henna bright future ahead, her work ends up making quite the
plant, it’s usually applied to decorate the hands and feet; impression, long after the color dims.
most “traditional” designs incorporate curlicues and flo-
ral arrangements that promote strength and beauty. But
Khamissa was drawn to something more linear. “It all
started with a minimalist Bedouin design,” she says of the
simple circle she drew on her hand almost two years ago.
She posted that image on her Instagram (@dr.azra),
and more designs followed, static images exploring vari-
ous forms of movement: moons eclipsing up the forearm,
snakes writhing between fingers and tendons, checkered
squares and frangipani losing its petals. “These minimal-
ist designs take just as long if not [longer] than these
more maximalist designs,” says Khamissa. “But [some]
people will still look at this like, ‘It’s not henna!’ ” Her
designs simply look too different from most traditional
henna work, which favors a specific palette of animal and
plant symbols and paisleys (plus regional touches, like
the many-petaled Sahasrara, in southern Asian designs).
But for many people, Khamissa’s henna designs rep-
resent something fresh and contemporary and serve as

Khamissa’s
Instagram
COURTESY OF SUBJECT

(@dr.azra) is less
a social media
profile and
more a gallery
of her work,
which spans from
the simplistic
to the wild.
Good is
all-day
moisture,
heavy on
hydration,
light to
the touch.
#DoGoodDoBeautiful
©2019 Avalon Natural Products, Inc.

blue lotus flower water • hypo-allergenic • no harsh sulfates

albabotanica.com @albabotanica @albabotanica /albabotanica


3
K I T
D R E A M

daniel
martin
He became a household
4

name after he did Meghan


Markle’s makeup for the royal
wedding, but Martin’s been
working with Hollywood
royalty like Julianne Moore
and Chloë Sevigny for years.
Here, he shares a few of his
essentials. By Kathleen Suico

“I keep an Honest “When I feel a cystic


Beauty Magic Beauty breakout coming, I’ll
Balm [3] in every bag put on a ZitSticka Killa
[Martin is a consultant [patch] [1] and it
for the brand]. It’s my won’t form. A lot of my
lip balm, cuticle cream, [skin-care] products
5 and eye cream. I’m are in glass, so I
not a big fragrance designed the Vanity
person, but the Maison Case Set with Cuyana
Christian Dior Spice [5], which allows them
9
Blend [6] makes me to stand up. Many of
feel finished [Martin my clients like the Air
is an ambassador Repair Complexion
6 for the brand]. It’s Quenching Facial Mist
my equivalent of a [7]. I use it to prep skin,
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (9); COURTESY OF SUBJECT

red lipstick.” or if I’m doing press


with someone and
we’re in for a long day,
COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT:

“As I’ve gotten older, I’ve I’ll use it as a refresher.”


gotten more eczema,
and I’ve started to get
really bad melasma. I’ll put on a Mediheal
Tatcha The Water Cream N.M.F Intensive
[8] calms my skin down. Hydrating Mask [9]
My derm suggested while I unpack. It grips
SkinCeuticals C E on to your face so
Ferulic [2] to help you don’t have to worry
the melasma, and about it sliding off.”
it’s been working.”
7

8
GOOD GIRLS
DO GOOD
GOOD GIRL SUPPORTS KODE WITH KLOSSY TO MAKE IT POSSIBLE
FOR GIRLS AGED 14-18 TO EXPAND THEIR EDUCATION IN TECHNOLOGY.
Th e
S k y,
s
it
im
L
e
th
HER STYLE IS
ON POINT. HER
HUMOR IS SUBTLE.
AND IN EUPHORIA
SHE CAN BREAK
YOUR HEART WITH
A LOOK. ZENDAYA
PUTS THE Z IN
GEN Z, AND SHE’S
JUST BEGUN TO
TAKE FLIGHT.

BY JESSICA CHIA
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
MIGUEL REVERIEGO

Going Places
Tommy x Zendaya blazer,
turtleneck, trousers, boots, bag,
and earrings. Louis Vuitton
luggage. Makeup colors: Hypnôse
5-Color Eyeshadow Palette in Bleu
Hypnôtique, Dual Finish Highlighter
in Radiant Rose Gold, and L’Absolu
Rouge Ruby Lipstick in Vintage
Ruby by Lancôme. Details, see
allure.com/credits. These pages:
Fashion stylist, Law Roach.
Hair: Larry Sims. Makeup: Sheika
Daley. Manicure: Nettie Davis.
Production: JN Production.
Since our plan was to go for a dog ularly sensitive to. We’ve moved to one
walk on a hot summer afternoon, I of her favorite restaurants, a dark, moody
dressed casually, but Zendaya has out- Thai place that’s completely empty. She
done me, in an oversize basic white tee, likes the food (even the appetizers are
black joggers, and simple white Reeboks. served in heaping portions), and the
She hasn’t bothered to wear sunglasses, non-nosy clientele. The seats are low,
which wouldn’t be out of place—we’re in roomy benches, and she sits with her
a city crawling with paparazzi, and it’s legs splayed out, so a now-sleepy Noon
squintingly sunny out. She also hasn’t can tuck himself snugly between her
bothered to put on makeup, which is just legs. I’ve asked her whether there is any-
as well because she has the poreless, thing her fans would be surprised to
Zendaya and I are walking through a supple skin of a newborn and high know about her, and the answer is at
scruffy park in North Hollywood. There’s cheekbones that are gleaming. This last once perplexing and the most honest
a gravel path, some sunburned patches part is not genetic—it’s lip balm she thing she could say. “I think my fans
of grass struggling to be green, and a dabbed onto her face because it felt dry. pretty much understand me. They know
7-11 across the street. The neighborhood Her usually dark hair is auburn today, rip- I don’t leave my house, they know that
is neither hip nor exclusive—not High- pling into the kind of imperfect waves I’m lazy, they know that I’m pretty open
land Park, not Brentwood. And it’s not that take stylists hours to create. but also pretty private. I think we have, in
exactly where you would expect to find She has found the photo. It’s a picture a weird way, a pretty close relationship.
one of the hottest actors in town. The someone snapped of her and Levinson My fans get me for sure.”
reason we’re here has to do with the on the Euphoria set, sitting side by side, Of course, Zendaya is an internation-
leash in her hand, at the end of which is a leaning back and crossing their legs in ally recognized celebrity who can likely
miniature schnauzer called Noon (who exactly the same way. At the center of a claim more devotees than most NFL
clearly thinks, given the dense squirrel show that explores controversial topics teams. The level of privacy she can hope
population, that this is the best place to (drug abuse, partner abuse, homopho- for is limited at best. In fact, our after-
be in Los Angeles, if not the world). The bia, transphobia, sexual exploitation, noon together has been a master class
Euphoria star is telling me what it’s like to death, grief, and peer humiliation, to in hiding in plain sight and/or avoiding
play a drug addict. She says it’s easy. name a few), Zendaya manages to be, by crowds: Both the park and restaurant we
I’m skeptical. I imagine that certain turns, funny, vulnerable, flawed, authen- visited were in a low-key part of Los
scenes, like one where she’s screaming tic, hardened, and hopeful. Angeles, near her mother’s home, and
obscenities at a drug dealer who is refus- It makes sense that she’s most at we went to both at off-peak hours. She
ing to give her opioids while she is in with- home in front of a camera. She’s been in chalks up her no-makeup, ultracasual
drawal, might have been a little tough. the public eye modeling, singing, and look to her laid-back attitude. And she is
Her take is different. “Somehow Rue [her acting since she was old enough to flash laid-back. When she finds out I planned
character in the HBO series] felt very nat- a smile at a camera. Zendaya was a child to take an Uber from the park to the
ural to me. She didn’t feel like a huge— model and got her first starring role at 14 restaurant, she invites me to “hop in” to
watch it, that looks funny.” Zendaya points on Disney Channel’s Shake it Up series. the backseat of her Range Rover. But her
to a mud puddle directly in my path. My Along the way to playing Rue in Euphoria cool also helps her to blend in—not one
powder-pink shoes and I are eternally and MJ in Marvel’s most recent Spider- person takes notice of her the entire
grateful. She picks back up where she left Man series, she flirted with pop stardom. time we are together except our server,
off: “Rue just seemed so much like me,” “I still love making music, and I still who asks to take a picture so she can
she says. Even though much of the inspi- get to do it through acting a lot of times, show her son. “Sure,” Zendaya says,
ration for Rue comes from Euphoria cre- and being able to work on the finale song scooting over so the server can sidle up
ator Sam Levinson’s own experiences of for Euphoria was fun.” She pauses. next to her for a photo.
getting sober, Zendaya says it’s their “There’s a layer of personal life that I think Incognito skills notwithstanding, I
matching idiosyncrasies—she calls him actors get that music artists don’t. They suspect it’s not merely hiding behind
her long-lost twin—that enable her to eas- have no character to hide behind, so they characters that appeals to her; it’s living
ily adopt the role. “Sam and I are so simi- have to be very open. [As actors] we get vicariously through them. “It was written
lar—the way we talk, the foods we like,” a little bit of a separation,” she says. She in the script that Rue had this big hoodie.
she says. “We like Cool Ranch Doritos and admits that social media has made this You can tell when she’s having a good
lemon-lime Gatorade. We find ourselves line a little blurry—she does feel pressure day or feels good because her hoodie is
sitting the same way.” Zendaya is rapidly to post—but all in all, she can retain a not covering her entirely, and then when
scrolling through her camera roll—she sense of identity beyond her roles. she’s not feeling it, she’s basically hiding
wants me to understand, and to under- This tension between revealing and in this giant hoodie.” Zendaya could really
stand, I’d have to see this photo. concealing is one that Zendaya is partic- use a hoodie like that too. But perhaps

86
Wing Woman
Tommy x Zendaya
jacket, sweater, skirt,
heels, and earrings.
Stylist’s own socks.
Makeup colors: Le
Monochromatique in
Petit Bisou and L’Absolu
Rouge Ruby Lipstick in
Kiss Me Ruby by
Lancôme. Details, see
allure.com/credits.
Hair Apparent
Louis Vuitton dress.
Tommy x Zendaya belt,
boots, and scarf.
Hermès bag. Fallon
earrings. Zaxie
necklace. Opposite
page, makeup colors:
Color Design
Eyeshadow Palette in
Teal Fury and Brow
Define Pencil in
Caramel by Lancôme.
Details, see allure
.com/credits.
I’m missing the meaning. “When I was 11, deadpan humor and Rue’s wry delivery German roots.) “And then I started think-
my grandfather passed, and we had all are Zendaya, through and through. ing about my brothers, and I’m just like,
his old clothes,” she says. “I thought it But just because Zendaya doesn’t What can I do? How do I stop this? I’m
would be cool if we made [it clear that] have all the answers doesn’t mean she terrified.” I’m sitting on the other side of
the hoodie was Rue’s [late] dad’s hoodie. isn’t keenly aware of the sociopolitical the table, letting it all sink in. I spent
[I wanted to capture] that attachment forces that have shaped her own reality. nearly every second watching Euphoria
that you have to inanimate objects when In that spirit, she decided her debut wishing for Rue and Jules (played by
somebody passes.” Tommy x Zendaya show last spring Hunter Schafer, a trans model and actor)
If Zendaya’s grandfather inspired would be a modern-day interpretation of that their wide-eyed yet world-weary
Rue’s hoodie, it was her grandmother the Battle of Versailles, a storied 1973 characters didn’t have to live in that dark,
who inspired her second collection in event that was a cultural inflection point, sad place, with its predators and hurt
collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger, and one of the first major fashion shows feelings and drugs and loss. But here I
Tommy x Zendaya. The mix of ’70s-esque to prominently feature a number of am, with Zendaya, and the cruel trick is
tailored women’s suiting (high-waisted African American models, such as Pat that she and I and everyone around us
trousers, sweater vests, sharp blazers) Cleveland, Bethann Hardison, and Alva are living in a world that’s just a sized-up
and more bohemian items (flowy skirts, Chinn. “It was a celebration of the version of the one in Euphoria, whether
tie-neck blouses, and swing dresses) was women who opened the door for me. we choose to see it or not.
an homage to fashions her grandmother Without what these women did in this Zendaya is taking this better than I
wore during that era. She was also moti- fashion landscape, without Beverly am. She has done this before. “There’s
vated by the diversity of body types in Johnson, the first black woman to have a literally injustice happening every sec-
her family tree to stipulate that the lines [American] Vogue cover, my Vogue cover ond. It’s intense and it’s overwhelming,
she works on also come in plus sizes, doesn’t exist,” Zendaya says. “It’s saying and I think a lot of young people are feel-
something, she says, Tommy Hilfiger had thank you, and it’s also putting it in our ing that,” she says. “But what do we do
not previously done for runway collec- minds that that’s what we have to con- about it? All I can say is try to find a bal-
tions. “That was my thing—I’m not going tinue to do. That’s the only way that the ance between doing the work and still

“I don’t like the idea that you have to box


yourself in or stay in one lane.”
to make clothes my sister or my niece or doors are going to continue to be open— not letting it destroy you as a person and
any of the women in my family can’t if we keep inviting people that look like destroy your hope and faith in human-
wear,” she says. “A lot of the clothes were us, and other people who don’t look like ity,” she says. But I think Zendaya does
for tall people too. For my mom, this is us, to come through the door,” she says. have the answer—or at least one that
the first time that she can wear pants and Naturally, Zendaya’s aspirations for works for her: “It’s allowing yourself to
not get them altered—she’s six feet four.” inclusion extend beyond fashion and be angry enough to want to be moti-
More broadly, Zendaya says she into the entertainment world. Things she vated to do something, but not to where
wanted to pay homage to “the working thinks we need more of in Hollywood: it breaks you down,” she says.
woman, especially in the time where coming-of-age stories with black leads I ask what’s next for Zendaya. In her
women were taking over in different that “can be funny and can be about ideal world, it would involve the LSAT:
career facets, becoming CEOs, becom- their awkward moments, and puberty, “[I’d study] law or something, not to prac-
ing bosses, and taking over in that and all that stuff,” she says. See also: tice, just to be able to read my own con-
sense.” I ask her whether she has a take sci-fi with a black lead. “A little girl who tracts,” she says. And certainly camera
on pay equity as addressed in Michelle can, I don’t know, control the weather, or work: “I’ve become obsessed with cine-
Williams’s speech at the Emmy Awards can talk to aliens. Just some fun shit.” matography because of Euphoria. I defi-
ceremony in September. Zendaya Media representation is one thing nitely want to learn more about that,” she
presses her brows. “I don’t have enough that is in her wheelhouse, but there is says. And possibly fresh ink: “I love tat-
information,” she says finally. “I just much more she wishes she had some toos. But I don’t want any,” Zendaya says.
started reading my own damn contracts answers to: climate change and its After a beat, she offers one exception.
not that long ago, so I don’t know. I have deniers. Children in cages at the border. “Hunter and I want to get ‘rules’ tattooed
to be more aware and know a little bit Police brutality. She recalls the time on our [inner] lip. So we might do that.”
more to even figure out what [the root when she was alone in an Atlanta hotel Then again, it might be all of the
issue is] and how to fix it. I think it’s room, in tears and growing panicked above. After all, “You can’t do it all” is
about accountability for sure.” I wonder after the shooting of Philando Castile. one of Zendaya’s least favorite sayings.
if Zendaya is much more self-aware than Castile’s was the latest name on the “It makes me mad. I don’t like the idea
the average 23-year-old, or if this is sim- growing list of African American men that you have to box yourself in or stay in
ply what it’s like to be a standard-issue and boys who have lost their lives in one lane. Why wouldn’t I want to try to
Gen Z Homo sapiens. As someone police shootings. “It [felt like they] hap- make the most of my talents and my
squarely in the millennial category, I pened back to back to back. I just started gifts while I can?” I hope she’s right. But
wonder at her vulnerability where my crying. My dad had gone out to get most of all, I hope she never loses her
contemporaries would show hubris—or some food, and I was immediately like, sense that what is wrong with the world
resort to memetic comedy. Speaking of ‘Where is he? Is he okay?’ I’m worried can be righted. “I want to be a part of
which, another thing that surprises me about my dad. My dad is a 60-something- the change,” she says. “It’s important
about meeting Zendaya in person is how year-old man, and I’m worried about my that creatives of all races, if they have an
funny she is, how like her onscreen dad,” she says. (Zendaya’s father is opportunity or platform, use it to make
selves, in that specific respect: MJ’s African American, and her mother has room for other people.”

90
Plane Hopping
Chloé jacket, turtleneck,
sweater, skirt, and
boots. Details, see
allure.com/credits.
a The next
Korean
beauty
trends we

s
adopt might
pinch a little.
Devon
Abelman
visits
Seoul’s
most
crowded
waiting
rooms to
investigate
the new
frontier of
injectables.
SARAH OLIN (PHOTO ILLUSTRATION)

92
BEFORE MEETING
UP WITH ME fillers, new materials, new plastic

FOR DINNER TO surgery techniques—they want to try


them all.” A big upside to all this: With
so many options available, cosmetic

CELEBRATE
injections are vastly cheaper in Korea
than they are in the U.S. Alternatives to
Botox, like Medytox and Botulax, can

MY FIRST TIME IN
be priced as low as $30 for a treat-
ment (compared to about $400 in the
U.S.). “It’s common for Koreans to go

KOREA,
to the dermatologist weekly, some-
times even daily, for maintenance
treatments,” says Y. Claire Chang, a
New York City–based dermatologist
my Seoul-based friend Jessica got off discerning audience of South Koreans who frequently travels to Seoul to
the plane after a business trip in Los who prize flawless skin, small faces, learn about the latest advancements
Angeles and drove straight to her der- and round, youthful features. To max- in cosmetic dermatology.
matologist—or “dermie,” as she affec- imize efficacy and move patients Many of the most popular inject-
tionately calls him—for Botox on her along, the spaces are divided by treat- able techniques are specific to
nose and jawline. After our stomachs ment (like the “filler room” in one clinic Korean beauty standards: plump

OPPOSITE PAGE: SARAH OLIN (PHOTO ILLUSTRATION)


were filled with dak galbi and soju, I I visited, where chairs are lined up for apples of the cheeks and rounded
scooted closer to Jessica in our booth patients to receive their injections, one foreheads, as well as the aforemen-
and asked her about her latest dermie next to the other). And unlike in the tioned V-shaped jawlines. But other
appointment. She began to list the U.S., where privacy surrounding cos- techniques, like using Botox to create
dozen-plus cosmetic procedures she’s metic work is prized, waiting rooms are the impression of poreless skin, or
tried since moving to Seoul from New sprinkled with patients wearing a full a thin hyaluronic acid filler to softly
York City eight years ago. Botox was face of numbing cream as they stand upturn the corners of the mouth, are
her gateway injectable, starting with by for their cosmetic procedures. likely to start creeping into practices
her jawline for a narrower, V-shaped In the U.S., we have 32 FDA- in the U.S.—in fact, they’ve already
silhouette. Since then, Jessica’s gotten approved dermal fillers. It can take arrived in some. Want to know what’s
fillers in her forehead, chin, nose, and many years of testing (and bureau- on the horizon? During my week in
lips. She also mentioned the “Chanel” cracy) for a new one to see the light Korea, these were the procedures I
injection, a cocktail of vitamins, miner- of a doctor’s office. In South Korea, heard about over and over again.
als, and antioxidants that is supposed however, regulation is less stringent,
to tighten and brighten skin (she didn’t and a person looking for injectables
notice a difference, though). I listened in Seoul has many more options to
to all of this slightly slack-jawed. On choose from. Formulas that the FDA
the other side of Jessica was our has not approved because of a lack
friend who grew up in South Korea— of studies on efficacy and safety
he was utterly unfazed. There, the or potentially serious side effects,
idea of a 33-year-old signing up for like injectable skin-brighteners
regular cosmetic injections is par spiked with glutathione (an antioxi-
for the course. An estimated one in dant that can deactivate the body’s
three South Korean women between melanin-producing enzymes), are
the ages of 19 and 29 has undergone used regularly in Korea. And while
a cosmetic procedure, according to American doctors certainly use
a 2015 Gallup poll. neurotoxins and hyaluronic acid
Earlier in the week, I skipped Seoul’s fillers off-label (injecting Botox to lift
stunning palaces and animal-café tour- lips, for example), I met with Korean
ist traps to go straight to Gangnam. doctors who spoke very casually of
The neighborhood’s streets are lined thread-lifting vaginas or injecting
with high-rises filled with full-service, Botox into the calves, applications
multilevel plastic surgery and derma- I had never heard of (or even imag- injected into the muscles to prevent
tology clinics, many complete with ined). When it comes to the latest and smooth wrinkles, botulinum toxin
in-house pharmacies, stem cell lab- trends and technology in injectables, is placed just below the skin’s surface,
oratories, and hotel rooms for out-of- Seoul is ahead of the curve. “A lot of at about 40 to 50 sites along the jaw-
towners. Hundreds of people cycle Korean [patients] are first-time adopt- line, forehead, and undereye areas. As
in and out daily for touch-ups and ers,” says Yongjoon Noh, a plastic a result, pores tighten, which makes
treatments, with the nonchalance surgeon at Banobagi Plastic Surgery skin appear smoother and brighter,
of stopping by a salon for a blowout. & Aesthetic Clinic in Seoul. “New and excessive acne-causing sebum
Inside these buildings, the future of stops forming. The effects last
injectables is being determined by a between three and four months.

94
CHERRY LIPS jawline or changing the contours of
the nose. “We use thread lifting to
The fruity nickname is a reference make it look like a patient has had
to the lip shape this filler technique a nose job—without actually doing
creates. In the past, Angelina Jolie’s all that fruity volume in the center a nose job,” says Choi Jun Young,
lips were the most requested look in of the lips, explains Kang. My best the lead plastic surgeon at JY Plastic
Seoul (just as they were in the U.S.), friend, CJ, who lives in Gangnam and Surgery & Dermatology, of his most
says Kang Jong Bum, a dermatolo- works in the K-pop industry, knows requested thread lift procedure.
gist at JY Plastic Surgery & Dermatol- people who get the procedure for The thread is injected between the
ogy in Seoul. But as of 2019, Koreans other reasons. “It’s really popular nostrils, and in about 15 minutes
prefer the more targeted plumping here for people with resting bitch patients can walk out with the bridge
that many K-pop stars are known for. face,” she says. “It helps them look and tip of their nose angled higher.
Instead of giving lips an allover full- softer.” Like other lip injections, lift The results last around a year or two
ness, dermatologists administer a edge filler lasts about six months and run about $250 to $420.
hyaluronic acid filler (like Juvéderm or to a year; swelling and small bumps
Restylane, or domestic options Yvoire can result, usually for two to three
or Neuramis) to the middle areas
of the upper and lower lip, enhanc-
days after the injection, before dis-
solving. Banobagi offers a cherry BOOSTER
ing the Cupid’s bow. Imagine two
double-stemmed cherries on their
lip filler and lift edge filler combi-
nation. A permanent smile is also SHOTS
sides, the stems forming the outline trending in South Korea. One of the “These days, it’s not about fixing a
of the edges of your smile. The results coordinators at JY Plastic Surgery & problem but preventing it,” says Lim.
last for at least six months and cost Dermatology mentioned increased He believes the future of cosmetic
about $150 to $250 in Korea. requests for surgical smile lifts, dermatology in Korea is the “booster
where surgeons create incisions in shot,” an injection designed to rev up
the same areas targeted by lift edge skin’s natural powers of regeneration
LIFT EDGE filler, so your face rests naturally
with the corners turned up.
and moisturize and brighten skin—not
to change the contours of your face.
FILLER The most sought-after booster
shot at JY is Jalupro, a solution of
After the center of the lips are
plumped, the same hyaluronic acid NOSE LIFT amino acids and sodium hyaluronate
(a form of hyaluronic acid) manu-
filler is often administered just above My Korean is limited, but I do know factured in Switzerland. Kang says
the outer corners of the mouth—a the word for thread lift (also, not to it builds up collagen (to best effect
technique called lift edge filler. As brag, egg and grandpa). And that when done as a series of injections
the name suggests, the treatment was a good thing because the term over several weeks), so skin becomes
raises the edges of the lips into came up often in my reporting. At plumper and acne scars start to fade
a soft smile. As we age, the area one point, Kang asked if I wanted to away. Jalupro can be injected all over
around our mouth loses volume, and try a thread lift myself. I’m 27, with your face, but Kang likes to target
the outer corners start falling into an skin that is more plump than saggy, wrinkle-prone areas like the forehead,
unintentional frown. Lift edge filler so I was extremely confused by the around the mouth, and around the
counters the droop and balances out offer. Thread lifts in Korea, Kang clar- eyes. It can also supplement laser
ified, are not the “facelift lites” that treatments for stretch marks. My
we consider them here. Sure, the friend Jessica loved the results so
mechanics of thread lifts in Korea much that she got it once a week for
are the same as they are in the U.S.: three months.
Dissolvable, fine-barbed threads are Rejuran—which contains PDRN,
passed underneath the skin with a short for polydeoxyribonucleotide—
large needle. Then, as the needle is the booster shot that many doc-
is pulled out, the barbs grab onto tors in Korea believe holds the most
skin and pull it upward, stimulating promise. PDRN is extracted from a
collagen and tightening and lifting segment of salmon DNA that is a 95
the skin. Korean-style thread lifts, percent match to that of humans.
though, are less invasive because This small DNA chain is known for its
finer threads are used; they alter anti-inflammatory and tissue-repairing
the shape of the face, slimming the properties. When injected into the
skin, Rejuran is said to shrink pores,
diminish the appearance of fine lines
and wrinkles, even skin tone, and bal-
“The lips are not volumized at the
ance oil production. Unlike skin Botox,
[outer corners of cherry lips],” says
Kang, “but you can see the two which focuses on instantly smooth-
areas that are plump on the top and ing the surface, PDRN could heal
the bottom.” sun damage or acne over time at the
cellular level, based on early in vitro
research. Typically, patients get three
monthly injections ($100 to $340
each), for results that last up to a year.
T H E

best

S P THIS PAGE: COURTESY OF ROYAL MANSOUR MARRAKECH SPA. OPPOSITE PAGE: TORKIL GUDNASON/TRUNK ARCHIVE.

Six trips, six spots around the globe, and six experiences
that do more than relax you: They change you for good.

96
world
S
A
I N T H E
SHED YOUR
SKIN IN
to Jason Momoa. Over the course of my three-day
stay I was blessed with a variety of luxuries—among
them a Bastien Gonzalez mani-pedi, a massage of
my innards in which a woman banged a gong on

MOROCCO
my stomach, and a stay in a private three-floor riad
that made me feel like Kristin Scott Thomas in The
English Patient. But the hammam treatment was
by far the most transformative. Partly because my
own skin smelled like roses for five days, and partly
I was lying on a marble altar, naked except for a because things that are meant to soothe me usually
white cotton thong, deep in the hammam of the stress me out (meditation, for instance, is a fast track
Royal Mansour hotel in Marrakech with an atten- to frustration). But mostly because I arrived at Royal

R o y a l M a n s o u r, M a r r a k e c h
dant named Laila. Laila was vigorously scrubbing Mansour with skin I had known and loved for many
my skin with a glove that somehow felt like suede years, and I left with new skin, as soft as a toddler’s.
but did the work of sandpaper. I lifted my head Half an hour before my great molting, Laila
to look down at my legs, where she was drawing had greeted me in the vast, airy lobby of the Royal
the glove downward in long strokes. Every pass of Mansour’s spa. The lobby looked—and I prom-
the glove left sheaths of skin behind. (Sorry about ise Aladdin is not my only reference for Sahara-
“sheaths,” but there’s no pretty term for this type of adjacent locales—like the ornate white birdcage
aggressive exfoliation.) I assumed there was some Princess Jasmine keeps her doves in. When we
sort of chemical sorcery at play: I’ve often sus- met, Laila had been wearing the Royal Mansour’s
pected that the exfoliating peels I love just gunk up beaded, mint-green uniform. When I saw her again,
to make the user think it’s actual skin that’s peeling after I’d bathrobed up, she’d changed into a short
off. “There’s no product on here,” Laila said when black dress and put her hair up—the first clue that
she caught my eye. I was mystified. I’m well prac- things were about to get messy.
ticed in the dark arts of exfoliation (I have a mild Laila guided me back to “the hot room.” It
Baby Foot addiction), but this was something dif- was the first of three rooms I would pass through
ferent. I was molting. “Now,” Laila said cheerfully, during the hammam bathing ritual, and it was as
“you will have a new skin.” advertised. The marble is heated from within, by a
My visit to the Royal Mansour was my first time wood-burning stove, and is then covered in warm
at a spa, which is a little bit like losing your virginity water from a marble trough. Laila and I were both
drenched in sweat, but she wore it better than I
did—I am generally a bit red in the face, but in the
hot room I reached vivid, concerning new hues.
There were two altars in the room, and the one
opposite mine was occupied by a woman in a later
stage of the ritual. She was lying very still and was
being covered in a brown paste. When the atten-
dant reached the woman’s stomach she whispered
a maternal remark about elasticity and the woman
responded a little too sharply for the vibe: “I’ve
had two children. They did that to me.” The atten-
dant laughed and moved the woman into a sitting
position.
Meanwhile, I got the glove. My body had been CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: CHRISTINE LUTZ/BLAUBLUT EDITION/AUGUST;
tenderized by my own sweat and repeated douses
of warm water, and Laila was sloughing off every-
thing that had accumulated on my skin since my
birth. And amazingly, when I looked down at my
legs, they didn’t look scrubbed raw; they just looked
COURTESY OF ROYAL MANSOUR MARRAKECH SPA (2)

healthy and pink.


Once my new flesh had absorbed a range of
rose-infused masks, I lay on the hot marble, fragrant
and immobilized by the room’s temperature. Laila
shepherded me to a shower, then on to the cold
room with a plunge pool. The water wasn’t frigid, or
even particularly cold, but I was hot. The effect was
like pouring tepid water into a frying pan.
Laila stood by the pool and counted me in, and I
dunked myself on “three” to make her proud. A lux-
ury baptism. I’d expected a plush, gentle spa day.
But the hammam ritual, when properly executed,
is actually pretty metal. Watching your skin float
away—while maybe not for the faint of heart—is a
catharsis all its own. —LAUREN LARSON
plates. “I’m fucking starving,”
the clank of a fork says. “Not as
hungry as I,” whines the spoon,
scraping the last bit of puree off
a bowl. Luckily for them, a deaf-
ening headache is brewing.
Food is to be minced. But
everything else must be con-
sumed in its natural state. I learn
this when I go to my bioimped-
ance measurement (basically a
body analysis appointment). A
striking six-foot-tall expat from
Los Angeles has stuck nodules
to the bottom of my toes that
can measure everything from my
BMI to my resting metabolic rate.
The bad news? Holy fuck, I’m
fat. The funny news? One side
(my left) is fatter than the other.
The good news? I burn 1,700
calories by simply breathing—
most certainly not a low metab-
olism, and I have more muscle
mass than most 40-something

LOSE IT IN
women. “It’s likely because of
the weight training you did in

AUSTRIA
your 30s,” I’m told. “That’s work-
ing in your favor. Add some daily
walks to your routine, and you’ll
start to burn this off.” I have
a deep-tissue massage that
releases years of calcified ten-
sion in my shoulder blades, but
the best treatment is the silent
one. At the spa or in the library,
I often hear the gentle slap of
Lanserhof Lans rests in the a surprisingly relaxing stom- slippers on marble floors making
hulking arms of the Alpines, but ach massage. “Your digestive their way toward me, but no one
soon after arrival, I place myself system is struggling,” she says ever appears.
Lanserhof Lans, Lans

in the capable hands of Caroline kindly, explaining that most of By the sixth day, my hunger
Falkensteiner, a slim brunette us eat too fast (so we don’t reg- pangs and headaches have sub-
who recalls a younger, European ister our hunger cues), eat too sided and my undereye skin is
Mary Steenburgen. I expect much and too late (when our smoother. “Look at how loose
her to spread the gospel of the guts have to work overtime to your pants are!” Falkensteiner
Lans philosophy, grounded in metabolize food), and eat too says as she greets me. Indeed,
the diet and lifestyle research of much acidic stuff (meat, eggs, I have lost 4.5 kilos (about 10
the Austrian physician F. X. Mayr. dairy, booze, the tenets of joy). pounds). She reviews my blood
Which makes me slightly uneasy, Just as guests are given their and urine work, and aside from
as Mayr’s vocabulary—detoxify, own physician for a minimum a vitamin D deficiency, my test
cure—gives me an acute case of seven-day stay, they’re also given results are normal. We agree
the bullshits. But Falkensteiner a number for their eating plan. that the fault line is my wine con-
provides more of an ear than (The lower the number, the less sumption. The vino must go.
a sermon. I realize, as I sit with you eat.) I’m a 2. Two means a My weight loss is rewarded
her, that I haven’t spoken out breakfast of spelt bread with avo- at lunch. There is no sad boiled
loud about the three pant sizes cado whip or porridge; a lunch potato, but an actual meal—a
I’ve gained since becoming a of baked potato and root vegeta- fillet of gilt-head (a firm white
COURTESY OF LANSERHOF LANS

mother. She assures me that bles, such as carrots with linseed fish similar to bass) in a frothy
everything will be okay: “You are oil; and a “dinner” of tea—sipped lemon-saffron sauce with a
in the right place.” with a spoon. side of avocado and cabbage.
Blood will be drawn, urine There are assigned tables in The heavens have opened; my
will be cupped, and willpower the dining room, and I’m given stomach is happy. Church bells
will be challenged. But first, a solo window seat. Aside from ring out across the field. “It’s
the scale—weight is measured muffled German, the only con- the feast of Corpus Christi,” my
in kilograms here, so I can versation is the somber chime waiter tells me. And feast I do.
temporarily fool myself—and of cutlery clanging on porcelain —THERESA O’ROURKE

99
river, only far less subtle.
But there are safe spaces
for we Americans to explore
the reverent qualities of
Japanese bathing culture

FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF HOSHINOYA KARUIZAWA (2); THIEMO SANDER/THE LICENSING PROJECT.
without risk of humiliating
ourselves. There are seven,
actually: the Hoshinoya con-
stellation of luxury ryokans.
The contemporary hotel—
and, by some accounts, the
very notion of hospitality—
owes itself to the Japanese: Monk-run inns that shel-
tered wandering travelers from the elements (the
first ryokans, in 700-ish A.D.) evolved into sprawl-
ing campuses where travel-weary rich people can
soothe their existential bruises. The upscale ryokan
experience unravels the very fabric of comfort,
wraps each thread in splendid cultural significance,
and weaves it back into a robe for you to relax in

SWEAT IT
while your bath fills by itself after pressing the “Fill
Up Bath” button. It is a luxury that supersedes com-
fort. It is right there next to the light switch of your
room at Hoshinoya Karuizawa.

OPPOSITE PAGE: SILVIA CONDE.


OUT IN JAPAN
Seemingly named for karuishi (volcanic rocks)
and sawa (swamp), Karuizawa, a resort town
about an hour from Tokyo that I would liken to the
Hamptons, lies in the shadow of Mount Asama, one
of Japan’s most active volcanoes.
What are the odds that Mount Asama will blow
Watching an American in an onsen is like seeing a when I’m here? I asked one of my nature guides.
brown bear twirling pasta. Whereas a Japanese person, (“Ha ha!” he non-answers.) Before I arrived, Asama
who likely grew up with the cultural ritual of the onsen, had erupted in 2015—minor, no casualties—
H o s h i n o y a Ka r u i z a w a

seems at home soaking in the stone-colored waters, although the area has erupted countless times
not moving for long stretches of time, periodically over the last 200 centuries; in some years, multiple
getting up and disappearing only to return to hydrosta- blasts occurred over the course of months.
sis, the American usually looks pretty awkward. There There was no eruption. Instead I took my rela-
is usually a lot of shifting weight, a tendency to move tionship with heaven to the meditation baths at
between pools a little too quickly. Onsen etiquette is an Hoshinoya Karuizawa, which are open from 3 p.m.
art often lost on the American. The cold towel an onsen- to 10 a.m. (About six weeks after I left, Asama let
goer wears on his head to keep cool looks dignified on forth a burp of ash into the sky.)
the Japanese; on the American it looks like a large bird Interconnected grottoes of hot water wind
pooped. One particular American spoke to a Japanese through rooms of increasing darkness, the humid-
fellow who glowed with a kind of post-vacation lumi- ity growing as the light dims, until the conditions
nescence—the day before, he had spent seven hours are perfectly womb-like. This is the ideal environ-
in the onsen, soaking or napping. The Japanese man’s ment for self-reflection. It feels as though you are
skin beamed, and his eyes beamed harder. descending beneath the mountain, into some
Okay, thought the American, let’s do this. Let’s primordial space of absolutely nothing. In the
plunge into the stone-colored waters and let our opaqueness, you cannot see any other bathers.
earthly concerns about credit card payments and You cannot see anything. The only sounds are
existential anxieties rise up off our skin and disappear the swishing of the water beneath you, a faraway
into the hydroether. Let’s move ponderously through water feature, and the din of your internal mono-
the elements—from the sulfur pool to the hot pool logue getting quieter, and quieter, and quieter,
to the hotter pool to the sauna and back through the until it is no longer there.
pools—endlessly. But if he can be honest with you, the There is another room: A large glass cube
American was also terrified of entering the onsen, the that filters in nothing but sunlight, which diffuses
joyful and celestial and transcendent and supercorpo- through the humidity into what heaven looks like in
real onsen, and doing something embarrassing, like movies. The American sits on a submerged bench,
compare a cold towel to a fowl dropping. Remember closes his eyes, and sweats. He sweats out every-
when the American accidentally sat in a Japanese thing that is in him, and then he sweats more. Some
man’s assigned seat on a northbound bullet train? Do unseen part of him, it feels like, is pulled from his
you remember what the Japanese man did? Nothing. pores, congeals at his hairline, and tumbles down
Just stood there elegantly. The American was not worth his face, and his chest, into the water, where it
his ire; Americans embarrassing themselves is a phe- eventually drains. He could stay there for hours, so
nomenon as natural as groundwater swelling into the he does. —BRENNAN KILBANE
S h a We l l n e s s slice open as I enter, feeling like a panoramic ocean view from
BETTER IN
SLEEP
Clinic, bumbling earthling who tripped Sha’s dining patio could make
Alicante into some pristine world order anything seem palatable.
where pedestrian things like ten- The next few days are a cor-
nis shoes and undereye bags do nucopia of hourly appointments:
If you were to land at Spain’s not exist. Inside, between the a private yoga session, a gen-
Alicante airport and head north- glass walls, glossy floors, and eral health exam, a nutritional
east on the black ribbon of high- dark, quiet hallways, facials, consultation, a neurocognitive
way bounded on both sides by massages, and wellness tune- assessment consultation, an acu-
brown, barren landscape, you’d ups are taking place (the menu puncture session, a deep-tissue
eventually come upon L’Albir, a reveals options like underwa- massage, a “therapeutic reci-
small, nondescript beach town ter massage, electro-lymphatic pes” cooking class. It’s Utopia
that could exist anywhere else drainage, and shiatsu). But this is for the wellness set. Every single
in Europe, dotted with souve- no “treat yourself” spa. Doctors aspect of your holistic health
nir shops and a few eateries in starched white coats walk the is measured and considered
with plastic tablecloths over hallways at a clip, darting to and both quantitatively and qualita-
thin fabric ones. It is an unlikely from consultations and workups tively by medical experts, and
SPAIN

locale for Europe’s jet set to with clients. then you’re prescribed a proper
unwind, save for the fact that My breakfast outfit is a large course of action to optimize
Sha Wellness Clinic, an elite piece of fabric and little else— that facet of your well-being.
holistic health center and spa, most of Sha’s clientele walk Though they offer anti-tobacco,
is located on its outskirts. My around in the spa’s (of course, weight control, and stress man-
taxi driver makes a sharp turn white) robe and slippers, only agement programs, I’m here for
away from the beach, winding wearing real clothing at din- the Discovery program, which
through stucco-walled residen- ner, where it’s required. I’m allows neophytes to indulge in a
tial streets at a steady incline served fresh vegetable juice, sampler platter of Sha’s offerings
until we come to an abrupt halt. miso soup with a slice of lemon, over the course of a few days. As
Directly ahead is a waterfall that turmeric-and-cardamom oat- one of the few millennials at the
cascades tastefully over three meal, a (gluten-free, sugarless) spa (likely due to the 1,500- to
silver letters: SHA. chocolate-and-almond roll, 7,500-euro price tag of a week at
A striking series of white and a slice of tempeh. It’s a far Sha) and a frequent flyer at both
buildings ascend the cliff like cry from my usual highly pro- my acupuncturist’s office and my
stairs. To my left: the portal to the cessed, highly glutened break- local barre studio, I expected to
complex. The silent glass doors fast, but it’s delicious, and the breeze through all my medical
workups. I did not.
Each doctor grew serious as
they asked me a variety of ques-
tions. I’m too young, they said,
to be reporting the symptoms
of fatigue that they were seeing.
My massage therapist, a man
from the Balkan peninsula with
the physique of a bodybuilder,
struggled to grapple with my
jerky-like shoulders and back.
Another doctor warned that if I
didn’t sleep more and stress less,
I could expect serious health
complications down the road.
“You must be very strong,” she
said, “but you can’t keep doing
this to yourself.”
There are, of course, more
spa-like moments: a microcur-
rent facial, a mud-mask body
treatment administered in a spe-
cial heated bed. But I was still on
the clock writing and editing,
waking up early to take advan-
tage of Sha’s sunrise hikes,
one of the few opportunities
to go off campus. At the end
of my stay, I came home feel-
ing slightly better, and a better
thing than that: knowing better.
—JESSICA CHIA

101
Just like nirvana, the Ranch at
Rock Creek is hard to get to. The
ranch stands tucked outside of
Philipsburg, Montana, once a
mining town, with a current pop-
ulation of 921, largely employed
by the ranch, and it feels com-
pletely remote. The main lodge
and attendant barns and cabins
stand sturdy and unassuming,
appointed with Western-inspired
prints and gingham amenities,
and they are spotless. But clean
or not (and God, is it clean), the
focus here is not on the accom-
modations; it’s on the main
event: the Great American Out-
doors. The light starts and ends
early, and the sky spans bigger
than your imagination, filled with
more stars than could possibly
exist.
The days are stacked with
activities outside—just you,
yourself, Mother Nature, and an
expert guide whose very happi-
ness seems to rest on your own
success at being an outdoors-
man. Cowgirls with long, ratty
hair, sun-worn smiling eyes,
and necklaces strung with sap-
phires they found in the Sapphire
Mountains let you gallop horses many miles an hour. To qualify your guide would have insisted

THIS PAGE: COURTESY OF THE RANCH AT ROCK CREEK. OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: CAMILLA AKRANS/
through the miles of sage brush. as a working ranch, an establish- you wear SPF—but there is also
(Speaking of the jewels: At least ment must have at least 50 head a fisherman’s special facial that
The Ranch at Rock Creek , Philipsburg

five people told me that a sap- of cattle, which the Ranch at Rock focuses on exfoliating and sooth-
phire in one of Queen Elizabeth’s Creek does—at least 50 well-fed, ing, with cream lovingly tapped
crowns came from right here loved cattle live out their days over your T-zone. The pièce de
in Montana.) Kind young men roaming the hills—though work- résistance is a massage in a
in sun-protective bucket hats ing is a misnomer. The Ranch is freestanding wagon styled with

AUGUST; COURTESY OF SINGAPORE AIRLINES; THAWORN KIMTONG/EYEEM GETTY IMAGES.


direct you on the ideal fly-fishing halcyon days of Americana gone wildflowers and parked next to
stance. Yoga corrections happen by—all the glory of cowboys with- the river. Rain begins to fall. Birds
on open platforms set under the out dehydration or broken bones. chirp. I spend a full hour staring
aspen trees. Everyone says “hello” and “good at rushing water, feet planted
The horse barn is guarded by morning,” waving with one hand in the silt of a riverbed, thinking
three charismatic goats named from their bike. about nothing more than what
Gummy Worms, S’mores, and For each activity, there is a the light looks like.
Fruit Snacks, who seem to be self-indulgent reward. Did you The final morning, there was
under the impression that they spend all day on a horse? There is a cowboy breakfast in the foot-
are dogs—who also have the a saddle soak massage in which hills, served on picnic tables
ability to scale steep walls. And you lie in a bathtub filled with overlooking the landscape. It’s
the horses are majestic. They’re essential oils and salts and drink the most elegant breakfast I can
good-tempered and patient and a most delicious apple-cider- remember. Hours later I traveled
just as ready to take a stroll as and-lemon tincture. Then you get back to the East Coast, proudly
they are to lope across a field at rubbed down in CBD cream. Been wearing my cowboy hat. As
fly-fishing all day directly beneath soon as I sat down on the plane,
I fell asleep. —COTTON CODINHA

GET LOST IN
the punishing sun? Impossible—

102
MONTANA
RESET
ABOVE THE
The shoulder stretches look a bit like you’re the-
atrically shrugging and also rotating them in forward
and then backward circles (jazz shoulders), and the

NORTH
torso stretch is your basic mattress-commercial “My,
what a restful sleep I’ve had” kind of motion, with arms
stretched upward, twisting side to side. One of the air
hostesses brightly smiled in my direction, thinking I
had a request, and I shook my head to deflect, indicat-

POLE
ing that I was just stretching. All in all, it’s a great low-
level body prep for meal or nap number six.
I managed to clock about four to five hours of
actual full sleep, which, as someone who can never
quite sleep on flights, I consider a victory. Not that
comfortably lounging around in a half-sleep state is the
The Longest Flight in the World sounds like it could worst, so it’s nice to get some edge on jet lag. There’s
be an action film starring an early-aughts Brendan a specific strange body sensation on flights that’s a bit
Fraser. It’s not. It’s something I took recently from like the intersection of slight carsickness and post-nap

Singapore Airlines Flight SQ 21


Newark to Singapore, tucked cozily away for 18 and fuzziness. The body yearns for something nourishing
a half hours in a business-class pod on an Airbus to put it at ease. I don’t know what it is about travel-
A350. (Months after I disembarked, Qantas started ing that makes me ravenous, despite not really doing
flying from New York to Sydney for a total flying much but sitting around and waiting, but I often find
time of 19 and a quarter hours. If those 45 minutes myself gnawing at all the worst bloat-inducing, salty
matter deeply to you, then know you are about to snacks out of boredom or jet lag.
read about the Second Longest Flight in the World.) The food was food—not airline food. My wonder at
Even when you’ve mentally reconciled the that cannot be overstated. The roasted beet and bur-
amount of time your flight will take, you arrive, and rata appetizer introduced me to my first in-flight fennel,
sometimes it’s tomorrow or yesterday. The sun is and when your taste buds are at a handicap, every herb
skipping shifts, basically shooting banana peels counts. The seared halibut was just the right balance
at your circadian rhythm. It’s a time warp enough of light but juicy that left me with a generous serving
just taking a red-eye across the Atlantic. And here I of flavor rather than the feeling of being too full (the
am, about to travel the furthest from home I’ve ever advantage of a fish entree). Topped off with a heavenly
been, for a duration longer than most folks are nor- lemon angel food cake, that bit of tart sweetness was
mally awake at a stretch. I have to just surrender to flavor layering at its 35,000-feet best.
the time warp that awaits. After I dozed off once more to ambient airplane
All the cozy socks and hydrating masks can’t white noise (followed by completing another round of
undo the fact that flying means shooting through jazz feet and shoulders), the pilot announced the initial
the sky in a metal tube—and that does wonky things descent, the cabin lights brightened, and the rest of the
to the body. Most folks are familiar with the effects passengers began clicking laptops shut and zipping up
of low air pressure causing a buildup of gas in your briefcases and carry-ons, eager to finally be back on
body, making you swell and bloat, clogging your land. As for me, I was
ears, as well as increasing the effects of alcohol, excited to run around
making you weep at the finale of Zootopia. But Singapore for the first
that’s not all! The below-desert-level humidity dries time, perhaps a little
up your nasal passages, making your sense of smell healthier than when I
and taste significantly duller, your skin much drier, took off. —SABLE YONG
and you body way more dehydrated.
Taking into account how the Longest Flight in
the World could be cause for some health con-
cern, Singapore Airlines invoked the expertise of
Canyon Ranch wellness architects to elevate the
flight experience. Canyon Ranch, a land- and sea-
based spa with outposts in Massachusetts, Arizona,
and elsewhere, has taken to the skies, offering a
menu of healthy but not sad food as well as the best
stretches to do in your seat. It took a bit of swiping
and tapping to find the stretches on the TV screen’s
programming in my pod, but once I did, I could
zone out to the soothing exercise instruction that,
honestly, any marathon-flier should know. Here are
some of them: Seated upright, cross one ankle over
the opposite knee and lean over it. Repeat.
Lift both legs out in front of you like a Barbie doll
and rotate your ankles.
Adding a little toe-wiggling flair, like the feet
equivalent of jazz hands.
Jazz feet.
Heaven on Earth
A blanket of smog
obscures the sunset into a
soft gradient. On the eyes,
powder blue is blended
into cotton candy blush at
the crease and dusted
with glitter. Makeup colors
on Sab Zada: Infallible 24
HR Eye Shadow in Timeless
Blue Spark and True
Match Blush in Sweet
Ginger by L’Oréal Paris.
Glitter Injections in
Amor and Love Letter.
These pages: Fashion
stylist, Simon Robins. Hair:
Teddy Charles. Manicure:
Ashlie Johnson. Production:
Preiss Creative.
c i t y o f

ON A RECENT TRIP TO
LOS ANGELES, THE MAKEUP
ARTIST VIOLETTE FOUND
INSPIRATION IN THE AMETHYST
DUSK, IN THE CONCRETE
EXPANSES, IN THE TEETERING,
TOWERING PALMS. HER
PARTNER AND COLLABORATOR,
STEVEN PAN, DOCUMENTED
THE JOURNEY—FIVE MAKEUP
LOOKS, PUNCTUATED BY THE
CITY ITSELF.

105
Crimson Tide
In 1923, a larger-than-life sign
was erected to advertise a
new housing development
called Hollywoodland. Years
later, it birthed a mythology
of its own—money, fame,
glamour, red lips. To get this
particular rich and famous
effect, Violette topped a red
liquid lipstick with a matte
pink blush.
Makeup colors on Khadijha
Red Thunder: Pure Color Envy
Paint-On Liquid LipColor in
Poppy Sauvage and Pure Color
Envy Sculpting Blush in Wild
Sunset by Estée Lauder.

106
Starlet Sky
Up north in Big Sur, twilight splashes the sky with more stars than seem possible. In L.A.,
you’ll have to create your own with nail art stickers you find on Amazon.
Makeup colors on Brianna Marquez: Nourishing Brow Pencil in Dark Brown, Hydro Boost Plumping
Mascara in Black, and Hydro Boost Hydrating Lip Shine in Soft Blush by Neutrogena.
The Ore the Merrier
The Los Angeles River, which bisects the city from Simi Hills to Long Beach, was overrun with gold prospectors as recently as 1938. Most found lead, copper,
or brass, which they could sell for as much as $25 a day. The riverbed has since been paved over with concrete. Here, Violette achieved a glinty
finish with Glitter Injections in Love Letter, a pressed glitter formula, but you can also strike big (and fine-tune a cat-eye shape) with a coppery gel pencil.
Makeup colors: Brow Ultra Slim Defining Eyebrow Pencil in Deep Brown and Baby Lips Moisturizing Lip Balm in Quenched by Maybelline New York.
Neon Heat
Venice Beach was founded in
1905 by millionaire Abbot Kinney,
who sought to replicate Venice,
Italy, by digging canals and
hiring gondoliers. A century later
it became a haven for pink-
haired artists and eccentrics, but
the area now faces rampant
development and gentrification
(the L.A. Times credits/blames a
2012 GQ article). A shimmery sea-
foam shadow straddles the line
between weirdo and gentry quite
beautifully. Louis Vuitton blazer.
Makeup colors: Easy Breezy
Volumizing Brow Gel in Deep, Full
Spectrum So Saturated Eyeshadow
Palette in Zodiac, and Exhibitionist
Mascara in Very Black by CoverGirl.
Details, see allure.com/credits.
T
A
K
I
N
G
T
H
E

EV
EN T
TR HER
AN E’
SP S S
OR OM
TIN ET
G HIN
AB
OU G UN
T T FE
HE TT
FR ERE
EE D,
DO LIB
BY M O ERA
LIA F A TIN
NA CL G, M
SC OSE AY
HA CR BE
FF OP
NE .
R
NICOLE BENTLEY

110
Take a hike
Preferably on the
Henry Head trail in
Kamay Botany Bay
National Park, Sydney
1

Why does short hair always have to


mean something? The moment we
come across a style that sits some-
where above a woman’s jawline, we 2
squint. Hmm. What’s going on there?
We immediately investigate the moti-
vations behind it. It’s as though clipped
ends—like the dots and dashes of Morse
code—telegraph a hidden message,
usually explosive in nature. Is she on
the rebound? Did she just lose a job? A
boyfriend? An election? Her mind? Con-
sidering the prominent place that short
hair occupies in our history and imagi-
nations, it’s a fair question. Beloved by
activists, aviators, and Jazz Age expatri-
ates, short hair is practically shorthand
for impressive displays of freedom and thing delicious about letting the wind
defiance. On a less consequential note, play havoc with my hair, so that it shape-
it’s a favorite plot device in pretty much shifts like a winter cloud. And when my
any film starring Audrey Hepburn. How ends curve right under my cheekbones,
many times have we watched some it reminds me of the way my youngest
wide-eyed ingenue bob her hair, only to son cups my face to look into my eyes,
emerge shorn and reborn as a tower of and sees all of me.
worldly sophistication? (Hint: a lot.) That is the power of short hair.
Before you dismiss this as an out- Stripped of the social cues and historical
dated mode of thinking, consider this: references, it just says: “I’m here. This is
My nine-year-old son informed me last me.” That’s all anybody needs to know.
month that my new chin-length bob
makes me look like “a strong business-
woman…or maybe an old-fashioned
suffragette.” Although I appreciate the
sentiment (I think), I can confidently 4
declare I am neither one of those
things. My chances of flying private,
overthrowing the patriarchy, or appear-
ing on a silver dollar are slim at best. But
it seems my hair suggests otherwise; its 3
razored edges convey a steely inner
core. On some level, we’ve convinced
ourselves that the only reason a woman
would cut her long hair—that lustrous
symbol of youth and fertility—is to
prove a point. And that idea is so deeply
ingrained that even a third grader can
pick up on it, including one who just
pieced together that chicken nuggets
are made of chicken. So maybe it’s time
for an honest confession: There’s noth-
ing heroic about my haircut. It doesn’t
liberate anything besides my cheek-
bones—and that’s enough. I’m perfectly 5
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

willing to remove inches for no other


reason than to feel beautiful, because
short hair is beautiful. “Once you cut off
the safety blanket of length, you reveal
everything it was hiding,” says hair-
stylist Matt Fugate. “Your cheekbones,

112
6

9
FROM LEFT: NICOLE BENTLEY;

THE ABRIDGED VERSION


JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (5)

Short hair speaks a language all its own. The right products and accessories
will help you make a statement—or occasionally, an exclamation.
1. Sincerely Jules x Scünci headband. 2. Goody barrettes. 3. Anita Ko ear
cuff. 4. Tory Burch scarf. 5. Oribe AirStyle Flexible Finish Cream and Fiber 10
Groom Elastic Texture Paste. 6. BaubleBar hair clip. 7. Kristin Ess Dry Finish
Working Texture Spray. 8. Faris earrings. 9. Kenra Platinum Texturizing
Taffy 13. 10. Epona Valley barrette. Details, see allure.com/credits.
tubs of Aquaphor in our
T H I N G

house. You just have to


Tommy x Zendaya have it. If you have a cut,
dress, gloves, and if you have dry lips, if you
earrings. Makeup have anything, it’ll fix it.
colors: Color Design
5 Pan Eyeshadow
Palette in Teal Fury CURRENT BEAUTY
M O R E

and Dual Finish OBSESSION? My nails. I do


Highlighter in my own gel polish: I wasn’t
Radiant Rose Gold
ever satisfied completely
by Lancôme.
Details, see allure when someone else did it,
.com/credits. so I [said], “You know what,
I’m going to do it myself.”
O N E

I bought the lamp and all


the supplies I needed and
never looked back.

CURRENT OBSESSION,
PERIOD? I think my current
obsession, in general,
is interior decor. I feel
like I could be an interior
designer. It would be my
dream to design a hotel.

THE MOST-USED ITEM


IN YOUR MAKEUP BAG?
Probably the mascara.
You can do pretty much
nothing, maybe a little
whatever, but mascara
kind of brings everything
together. My favorite is
Lancôme Monsieur Big.
[She is a spokesperson
for the brand.]

AND THE MOST-USED


ITEM IN YOUR SHOWER?
Probably the shampoo.
It’s Philip Kingsley for a dry,

just asking...
flaky scalp. Sometimes
I get dandruff, and it is the
best thing I’ve found that
cuts that out. And this one
doesn’t strip your hair.

WHAT IS A BEAUTY LOOK


W I T H Z E N D AYA YOU’RE DYING TO TRY
NEXT? I pretty much have
tried everything. I think
WHAT ARE THREE WORDS going to get Invisalign or and then it’ll wash out maybe I can have a little bit
TO DESCRIBE YOUR HEAD- something, [but] I was within a month. more fun with eye shadow
TURNING RED-CARPET like, “No, fuck that.” And and playing with the shape
LOOKS? The three people I kept it, and I’m glad I BESIDES RUE IN EUPHORIA, of my eyes.
on my glam team: You got kept it. WHO’S THE BEST
Law [Roach]; my stylist, CHARACTER YOU’VE CAN YOU SHARE YOUR
Ursula [Stephen], on hair; YOUR BEST BEAUTY PLAYED, BEAUTY-WISE? GREATEST BEAUTY
Sheika [Daley] on makeup. SHORTCUT? Coloring my I would say Anne Wheeler EXTRAVAGANCE? This
Those three people make hair because I use from The Greatest sounds bad, but I get
it happen. this stuff called Overtone. ShowmanÑthat pink wig sent so much stuff that I
It’s a color-depositing was fun. And the soft, don’t really have to spend
WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE conditioner, and it’s so opalescent kind of makeup money on anything,
MIGUEL REVERIEGO

THING ABOUT YOUR FACE? easy—boom! That’s what was really nice. which is really backwards,
I quite like my [right front] I’ve been using for this right? It’s like the more
tooth. It just lives outside red [as seen on her at WHAT IS THE LAST you can afford stuff, the
my mouth. I used to hate the 2019 Emmys]. I mix PRODUCT YOU FINISHED? more free stuff you get,
it when I was younger, the red and the orange, I’m assuming Aquaphor which doesn’t make a lot
and then I decided I was put it in there, rinse it, because we always have of sense.

114 ALLURE DECEMBER 2019/JANUARY 2020


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