10 Info and Work Sheet Service Brake System

BANAHAW TECHNOLOGICAL COLLEGE INC.
Lucban-Tayabas Road
Brgy. ManasaLucban,Quezon
Name: ______________________________ Date: ______________

Section: _____________________________
I. TITLE: SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM

II. OBJECTIVES: the students must be able to
1.Match terms associated with brake systemto the correctdefinitions.

2.Name the components in the brake system.
3.Identify the major parts of brake system
Information Sheet 10.1-1

BRAKE SYSTEM
Introduction
Brakes are devices whose function it is to slow and stop and automobile.re devices whose
function it is to slow and stop and automobile. They are mandatory for the safe operation of vehicles.
When a car is in motion, it has kinetic energy or energy derived from this motion. In order for the car
to slow down, this energy must be decreased. This is accomplished by transforming it into another
form. In the case of brakes, this form is heat. In short, brakes transform the kinetic energy of the car
into heat energy, thus slowing its speed and, if enough energy is transferred, bringing it to a stop.
How Brakes Work
Brakes operate by converting the kinetic energy (motion) of an automobile into heat energy.
How effectively this is achieved depends on the type of braking system. There are two main types of
brakes that have been used in cars. These are disc brakes and drum brakes.
Disc brakes - A disc brake has a disc that turns with the wheel. The disc is straddled by a caliper, in
which there are small hydraulic pistons worked by pressure from the master cylinder.
The pistons press on friction pads that clamp against the disc from each side to slow or stop it. The
Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

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SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM Page 1 of 17
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Mr. Ryan M. Fabricante
Revision # 01
pads are shaped to cover a broad sector of the disc.
The basic type of disc brake, with a single pair of pistons. There may be
more than one pair, or a single piston operating both pads, like a scissor
mechanism, through different types of calipers - a swinging or a sliding
caliper.
There may be more than a single pair of pistons, especially in dual-circuit brakes.
The pistons move only a tiny distance to apply the brakes, and the pads barely clear the disc when
the brakes are released. They have no return springs.
When the brake is applied, fluid pressure forces the pads against the disc. With the brake off, both
pads barely clear the disc.
Rubber sealing rings round the pistons are designed to let the pistons slip forward gradually as the
pads wear down, so that the tiny gap remains constant and the brakes do not need adjustment.
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Many later cars have wear sensors leads embedded in the pads. When the pads are nearly worn
out, the leads are exposed and short-circuited by the metal disc, illuminating a warning light on the
instrument panel.
Drum brakes - A drum brake has a hollow drum that turns with the wheel. Its open back is covered
by a stationary back plate on which there are two curved shoes carrying friction linings.
The shoes are forced outwards by hydraulic pressure moving pistons in the brake's wheel cylinders,
so pressing the linings against the inside of the drum to slow or stop it.
With the brakes on, the shoes are forced against the drums by their piston.
A drum brake with a leading and a trailing shoe, which has only one
hydraulic cylinder; brakes with two leading shoes have a cylinder for
each shoe and are fitted to the front wheels on an all-drum system.
Each brake shoe has a pivot at one end and a piston at the other. A leading shoe has the piston at
the leading edge relative to the direction in which the drum turns.
The rotation of the drum tends to pull the leading shoe firmly against it when it makes contact,
improving the braking effect.
Some drums have twin leading shoes, each with its own hydraulic cylinder; others have one leading
and one trailing shoe - with the pivot at the front.
This design allows the two shoes to be forced apart from each other by a single cylinder with a
piston in each end.

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It is simpler but less powerful than the two-leading-shoe system, and is usually restricted to rear
brakes.
In either type, return springs pull the shoes back a short way when the brakes are released.
Shoe travel is kept as short as possible by an adjuster. Older systems have manual adjusters that
need to be turned from time to time as the friction linings wear. Later brakes
have automatic adjustment by means of a ratchet.
Drum brakes may fade if they are applied repeatedly within a short time - they heat up and lose their
efficiency until they cool down again. Discs, with their more open construction, are much less prone
to fading.
The handbrake
Apart from the hydraulic braking system, all cars have a mechanical handbrake acting on two
wheels - usually the rear ones.
The handbrake gives limited braking if the hydraulic system fails completely, but its main purpose is
as a parking brake.
The handbrake acts on the shoes by means of a mechanical system, separate

from the hydraulic cylinder, consisting of a lever and arm in the brake drum;
they are operated by a cable from the handbrake lever inside the car
The handbrake lever pulls a cable or pair of cables linked to the brakes by a set of smaller levers,
pulleys and guides whose details vary greatly from car to car.
A ratchet on the handbrake lever keeps the brake on once it is applied. A push button disengages
the ratchet and frees the lever.

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On drum brakes, the handbrake system presses the brake linings against the drums.
Disc brakes sometimes have a comparable handbrake arrangement, but because it is difficult to
place the linkage on a compact calliper, there may be a completely separate set of handbrake pads
for each disc.
When you depress your brake pedal, your car transmits the force from your foot to its brakes
through a fluid. Since the actual brakes require a much greater force than you could apply with your
leg, your car must also multiply the force of your foot. It does this in two ways.
 Mechanical advantage (leverage)

 Hydraulic force multiplication
The brakes transmit the force to the tires using friction, and the tires transmit that force to the road
using friction also. Before we begin our discussion on the components of the brake system, we'll
cover these three principles:
 Leverage
 Hydraulics
 Friction
HOW BRAKES WORK

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Friction
Friction is a measure of how hard it is to slide one object over another. Take a look at the figure
below. Both of the blocks are made from the same material, but one is heavier. I think we all know
which one will be harder for the bulldozer to push.
To understand why this is, let's take a close look at one of the blocks and the table:
Because friction exists at the microscopic level, the amount of force it takes to move a given
block is proportional to that block's weight.
Even though the blocks look smooth to the naked eye, they are actually quite rough at the
microscopic level. When you set the block down on the table, the little peaks and valleys get
squished together, and some of them may actually weld together. The weight of the heavier block
causes it to squish together more, so it is even harder to slide.
Different materials have different microscopic structures; for instance, it is harder to slide
rubber against rubber than it is to slide steel against steel. The type of material determines the
Coefficient of friction, the ratio of the force required to slide the block to the block's weight. If the
coefficient were 1.0 in our example, then it would take 100 pounds of force to slide the 100-pound
(45 kg) block, or 400 pounds (180 kg) of force to slide the 400-pound block. If the coefficient were
0.1, then it would take 10 pounds of force to slide to the 100-pound block or 40 pounds of force to
slide the 400-pound block.
So the amount of force it takes to move a given block is proportional to that block's weight.
The more weight, the more force required. This concept applies for devices like brakes and clutches,
where a pad is pressed against a spinning disc. The more force that presses on the pad, the greater
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the stopping force.
Coefficients
An interesting thing about friction is that it usually takes more force to break an object loose
than to keep it sliding. There is a coefficient of static friction, where the two surfaces in contact
are not sliding relative to each other. If the two surfaces are sliding relative to each other, the
amount of force is determined by the coefficient of dynamic friction, which is usually less than the
coefficient of static friction.
For a car tire, the coefficient of dynamic friction is much less than the coefficient of static
friction. The car tire provides the greatest traction when the contact patch is not sliding relative to the
road. When it is sliding (like during a skid or a burnout), traction is greatly reduced.
When Do You Need to Replace Your Brakes?
Just as your gas mileage will vary depending on where and how you drive, so it goes with the
life of brake pads (or linings), the friction material that gets pressed against a metal disc or drum to
stop your vehicle.
Many cars have built-in wear sensors that scrape against a brake disc when the linings
needed replacing. The driver will hear an annoying screeching sound when they apply the brakes (or
when the brakes are released on some vehicles).
Those sensors aren't on every vehicle, so drivers should listen for squeaks, squeals, grinding
(often a sign that brake pads are entirely gone) and other noises that indicate wear. Some minor
noises can be eliminated by cleaning the brakes, but persistent, prominent noises usually mean
parts are worn. Other signs are pulsations through the brake pedal, longer stopping distances, or
when you apply the brakes your foot goes down further, closer to the floor.

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All cars have a brake warning light that comes on for a few seconds every time you start your
car. If it comes on while driving, that probably means your brake system is low on fluid because of a
leak or a problem with the brake master cylinder. Note that this is not the same warning light that
comes on when you apply the hand- or foot-operated parking brake.
How to Check Your Brake Pads
Proper auto maintenance is not only critical for the long life of your car; it can save your life.
This is particularly true when it comes to your car's braking system. Brakes are what enable your car
to stop, to hopefully avoid accidents and drive more safely overall. Unfortunately, many drivers
overlook brakes when it comes to performing auto maintenance.
What Needs To Be Done?
Brake pads are the primary part of your car's braking system that requires regular maintenance.
 Regular inspection of your brake pads is critical to the longevity and safety of your car.
 If the brake pads are worn out, they need replacement by a professional mechanic.
Why Do It?
Safety and avoiding damage to your brake rotors are the most important reasons to regularly check
your brake pads.
 If your brake pads wear out, your brake rotors can become damaged. Brake rotors are a
much more labor intensive and costly part of the braking system to replace.
 Regularly checking and replacing your brake pads can greatly prolong the life of the brake
rotors.
How Often?
Automobile superstore recommends that your brake pads be professionally checked every 12,000
miles or 12 months, but it's always a good idea to check your car owner's manual or talk to a trusted
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professional to make sure what's right for your vehicle.
Depending on how you drive, brake pads may wear out faster than the recommended inspection
times.
How Often to Check the Brake Pads on Your Vehicle:

Frequency:
Frequent Driver Every 3 Months
Average Driver Every 6-12 Months
Infrequent Driver Every 8-12 Months
How to do it
Fortunately, brake pads are designed to provide clear signals that they need to be replaced. Here
are some ways to check them:
Listen to your brakes
 Brake pads make a noise when they are worn out and need replacement. This noise will
sound like metal scraping in the wheels when the car is moving. The sound will get louder as
the brakes are used.
 The brake is designed to make this noise as an early warning signal that the pads need to be
changed.
Look at the wheels
 Brake dust accumulation in the wheel is another sign of wear.

 As the brake pads wear out, the amount of dust on the wheels decreases. Noticing cleaner
wheels may be a sign that brake pads need replacement.
Observe the brake pad
 In most cars, the brake pad can be seen through the wheel. Look at it to determine its
thickness. If it seems very thin, less than ¼ inch, it is likely in need of replacement.
 Some brake pads have a slot in the center that serves as a wear indicator. Look at the slot; if
it's almost non-existent, the pad probably needs replacement.

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In most cars, the brake pad can be seen through the wheel.
The Drum Brake
History
The modern automobile drum brake was invented in 1902 by Louis Renault. He used woven
asbestos lining for the drum brakes lining, as no alternative dissipated heat like the asbestos lining,
though Maybach has used a less sophisticated drum brake. In the first drum brakes, levers and rods
or cables operated the shoes mechanically. From the mid-1930s, oil pressure in a small wheel
cylinder and pistons (as in the picture) operated the brakes, though some vehicles continued with
purely mechanical systems for decades. Some designs have two wheel cylinders.
Drum brake - is a brake that uses friction caused by a set of shoes or pads that press against a
rotating drum-shaped part called a brake drum. The brake drum is generally made of a special type
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of cast iron that is heat-conductive and wear-resistant. It rotates with the wheel and axle.
The term drum brake usually means a brake in which shoes press on the inner surface of the drum.
When shoes press on the outside of the drum, it is usually called a clasp brake.
Drum brakes work on the same principle as disc brakes: Shoes press against a spinning surface.
In this system, that surface is called a drum.
Many cars have drum brakes on the rear wheels and disc brakes on the front. Drum brakes have
more parts than disc brakes and are harder to service, but they are less expensive to manufacture,
and they easily incorporate an emergency brake mechanism.
Components
Drum brake components include the backing plate, brake drum, shoe, wheel cylinder, and various
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springs and pins.
Backing plate
The backing plate provides a base for the other components. It attaches to the axle sleeve and
provides a non-rotating rigid mounting surface for the wheel cylinder, brake shoes, and assorted
hardware.
Wheel cylinder
One wheel cylinder operates the brake on each wheel. Two pistons operate the shoes, one at each
end of the wheel cylinder. Hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder acts on the piston cup,
pushing the pistons toward the shoes, forcing them against the drum. When the driver releases the
brakes, the brake shoe springs restore the shoes to their original (disengaged) position.
Brake shoe
Brake shoes are typically made of two pieces of sheet steel welded together. The friction material is
either riveted to the lining table or attached with adhesive.

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Information Sheet 10.2-1
Procedure in Servicing Brakes and Conducting Road Test
Replacing Brake Pad
When a brake pad wears down on a rotor, it will often make a squeaking sound when
applied. This is an audible safety measure to make sure that the driver knows to change the
brakes soon. Unfortunately, some pads don't do this particularly well, so newer cars have
brake pad wear sensors installed as part of their system, alerting the driver on the dash that
the pads needs replacement.
1. Get the correct brake pads. Pads are available at any auto parts store or your local
car dealership. Just let them know the year, make and model of your car and select a pad in
your price range. In general, the more expensive they are, the longer they last.
2. Make sure the vehicle is cooled down. If you have recently driven, you may be
working with extremely hot pads, calipers and rotors. Be sure that these parts are safe to
touch before moving on.

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3. Loosen the lug nuts. Using the lug wrench provided along with the car's jack, loosen
each of the lug nuts that hold the wheels onto the car about two thirds of the way.
 Don't loosen all the tires at once. Generally, you'll change at least the two front pads
or the two back pads, depending on your car and how evenly the brakes wear. So
either start with the front or the back.
4. Carefully jack the car up until it can be removed comfortably. Consult your owner's
manual to determine the correct position for the car jack under your car. Put some blocks
behind the other wheels to stop the car from rolling forward or back.
 Place a jack stand under the frame of the vehicle. Do NOT trust the jack alone.
Repeat for the other side of the car so that both sides are securely supported.
5. Remove the wheels. Finish loosening and removing the lug nuts when the car is
raised. Pull the wheel straight out towards you to remove it.
6. Remove the caliper bolts using the correct size of socket or ring-spanner. The caliper
fits over the brake rotor like a clamp and its job is to slow the wheel using hydraulic
pressure. The brake pads will create friction with the rotors to slow the vehicle to a stop.
Calipers generally come in one-piece or two-piece designs, secured with between two and
four bolts at the inside of the stub axle housing, where the tire fits onto the axle. Spray these
bolts with WD-40 or PB Penetrating Catalyst to aid in removing them.
 Check the caliper pressure. The caliper of a car at rest should move back and forth a
little bit. If not, the caliper is under pressure and it may fly off when you remove the
bolts. Take extra precaution when checking to keep your body to the side of its path,

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even if it is loose.
 Check to see if there are any shims or performance washers fitted between the
caliper mounting bolts and the mounting surface. If there are, remove them and keep
track of them to replace later. You will need to refit the caliper without the brake pads
and measure the distance from the mounting surface to the brake pad to replace
them appropriately.
 Many Japanese vehicles use a two-piece sliding caliper that only requires the
removal of two forward-facing slider bolts, with 12-14mm heads. You will not need to
remove the entire caliper.
7. Carefully hang the caliper with a small piece of wire to the wheel well. The caliper will
still be connected to the brake line, so hang it up with a small piece of wire hanger or other
scrap metal, so that it won't hang and put pressure on the flexible brake hose.

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8. Remove the old pads. Finally! Note how each brake pad is attached. They typically
snap or clip in with attached metal clips. Remove both pads. They may take a little force to
pop out, so take care not to damage the caliper or brake line while getting them out.
 Inspect brake rotors for warped, heat damage or cracks to surface and replace as
needed. Rotors are recommended to be replaced or resurfaced during brake pad
replacements.
A new brake pad (top) and a worn brake pad (bottom)

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9. Put the new pads on. At this point, you can spread anti-seize lubricant on the metal
contact edges and on the back of the pads. This will prevent a lot of squeaking. However,
do not get any lubricant onto the inside of the brake pads. If any lubricant touches that
material, the brake will not provide friction, and will be useless. Attach the new pads exactly
the way the old ones were attached.
10. Check the brake fluid. Check your vehicle's brake fluid level and add some if
necessary. Replace the brake fluid reservoir cap when finished
11. Install the caliper. Slide the caliper slowly back over the rotor, proceeding easily so as
not to damage anything. Replace and tighten the bolts that hold the caliper in place.
12. Put the wheel back on. Slide the wheel back into place and hand tighten each of the
lug nuts snug before lowering the car.

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13. Tighten the lug nuts. When the car is back on the ground, tighten the lug nuts in a
"star" pattern. Tighten one lug nut, then one across from it until each nut is fully tightened to
torque specification.
14. Start the vehicle. Making sure the vehicle is in neutral or park, pump the brakes 15 to
20 times to make sure the pad is seated properly. Top off brake fluid levels or follow
bleeding of brakes section to flush out old fluid and replace with new fluid.
15. Test your new brake pads. Going no more than 5 mph (8.0 km/h) on a quiet residential
street, brake like normal. If the vehicle seems to stopping normally, repeat the test and go
up to 10 mph (16 km/h). Repeat several more times, gradually going up to 35 or 40 mph (56
or 64 km/h). Also check in reverse. These braking tests ensure there are no issues with
your brake-pad installation, gives you confidence when driving on main streets and helps
"seat" the brake pads into place.
 Listen for problems. The new pads may squeak a bit, but i you should hear a
grinding, metal-on-metal sound, you probably have the brake pads reversed (i.e., the
inside surface is incorrectly facing out). This should be corrected immediately.

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Self-Check
1. It is a device whose function it is to slow and stop and automobile. They are mandatory
for the safe operation of vehicles.
A. Drum Brake C. Brakes

B. Brake Piston D. Brake Pads
2. It is a brake that uses friction caused by a set of shoes or pads that press against a
rotating drum-shaped part also it is generally made of a special type of cast iron that is
heat-conductive and wear-resistant.
A. Drum Brake C. Brakes

B. Brake Piston D. Brake Pads
3. It provides a base for the other components. It attaches to the axle sleeve and provides a
non-rotating rigid mounting surface for the wheel cylinder, brake shoes, and assorted
hardware.
A. Wheel Cylinder C. Drum Brake

B. Backing Plate D. Brake Shoe
4. How often to check the brake pads on your vehicle if you are frequent driver.
A. Every 3 months C. Every 6 -12 months

B. Every 12 months D. Every 8 – 12 months
5. Which statement is false about checking brake pads.
A. Regular inspection of your brake pads is critical to the longevity and safety of your car
B. If your brake pads wear out, your brake rotors can become damaged. Brake rotors are a
much more labor intensive and costly part of the braking system to replace
C. If the brake pads are worn out, they need replacement by a professional mechanic
D. Many cars have drum brakes on the rear wheels and disc brakes on the front. Drum
brakes have more parts than disc brakes and are harder to service, but they are less
expensive to manufacture, and they easily incorporate an emergency brake mechanism
6. In removing caliper bolts which statement is false.

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A. Check the caliper pressure. The caliper of a car at rest should move back and forth a little
bit
B. Check to see if there are any shims or performance washers fitted between the caliper
mounting bolts and the mounting surface
C. Inspect brake rotors for warped, heat damage or cracks to surface and replace as
needed
D. Many Japanese vehicles use a two-piece sliding caliper that only requires the removal of
two forward-facing slider bolts, with 12-14mm heads
7. In observing the brake pads which technician is correct? Technician A “in most cars, the
brake pad can be seen through the wheel, look at it to determine its thickness. If it seems
very thin, less than ¼ inch, it is likely in need of replacement” Technician B “Some brake
pads have a slot in the center that serves as a wear indicator. Look at the slot; if it's
almost non-existent, the pad probably needs replacement”
A. Technician A. B. Technician B
C. None of the Technician is correct D. Both of the Technician is correct
8. Which Technician is correct? Technician A “All cars have built-in wear sensors that
scrape against a brake disc when the linings needed replacing”. Technician B “All cars
have a brake warning light that comes on for a few seconds every time you start your
car”.
C. None of the Technician is correct D. Both of the Technician is correct
9. Which Technician is incorrect? Technician A “If the brake pads are worn out, they need
replacement by a professional mechanic”. Technician B “Some minor noises can be
eliminated by cleaning the brakes, but persistent, prominent noises usually mean parts
are worn”.
C. None of the Technician is incorrect D. Both of the Technician is incorrect
10. Which statement is correct?
A. The handbrake gives limited braking if the hydraulic system fails completely, but its main
purpose is as a parking brake
B. The handbrake lever pulls a cable or pair of cables linked to the brakes by a set of
smaller levers, pulleys and guides whose details vary greatly from car to car.
C. The handbrake gives same braking action if the hydraulic system fails completely, but its
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main purpose is as a parking brake
D. Disc brakes sometimes have a comparable handbrake arrangement, but because it is
difficult to place the linkage on a compact calliper, there may be a completely separate
set of handbrake pads for each disc.

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Answer Sheet 10.1-1
1. C. Brakes
2. A. Brake Drum
3. B. Backing Plate
4. A. Every 3 months
5. D. Many cars have drum brakes on the rear wheels and disc brakes on the front. Drum
brakes have more parts than disc brakes and are harder to service, but they are less
expensive to manufacture, and they easily incorporate an emergency brake
mechanism
6. C. Inspect brake rotors for warped, heat damage or cracks to surface and replace as
needed
7. D. Both of the Technician is correct
8. B. Technician B
9. C. None of the Technician is incorrect
10. C. The handbrake gives same braking action if the hydraulic system fails completely,
but its main purpose is as a parking brake

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Lucban-Tayabas Road
WORK SHEET 10
Name: ______________________________ Date: ______________

Section: _____________________________
I. TITLE: SERVICING REAR DRUM BREAK
 Assemble and disassemble rear drum break.

 Replace worn out rear drum break
 Demonstrate occupational health and safety in doing the activity
III. TIME: 60 min.
IV. TOOLS and MATERIALS

a. Screw driver
b. Ratchet and Socket wrench
c. End wrench
d. Shop towel
e. DOT 3 Brake fluid
f. Safety glasses
II. Procedure
1. Jack up your car and remove the rear wheel and tire.
Do not take apart the brake assemblies on both sides at the same time. You may need to
use the other side as a reference when reassembling.
2. Remove the drum, which attaches directly to the wheel.
Wash it in soap and water.
3. Inspect the brake linings on the outside of the backing plate to make sure they are not
cracked or glazed over.
Look at the hydraulic wheel cylinder mounted on the backing plate and make sure that it is
not leaking hydraulic fluid. Also, make sure that all moving parts are free of rust.
4. Measure the drum to make sure that it is not larger than the manufacturer's maximum
specifications.
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To do this, take your micrometer and measure the inside of the drum in several places.
Compare this number with the maximum measurement printed on the side of the drum. If the
diameter is less than the maximum specification, the drum can be machined by a service
technician. If not, it must be replaced.
5. Measure the brake lining with your depth gauge.
Make sure that it is above the minimum thickness requirement listed in your service manual.
If it isn't, the lining must be replaced.
6. Look at the brake shoes to see if they are worn down.

These should be replaced when the lining is below the manufacturer's specifications. If they
need to be replaced, take your brake pliers and remove the brake shoe return springs. Then,
take a brake spring tool and remove the hold-down springs and pins. The entire assembly
should come off at this point. This will include the springs, the star wheel and both shoes.
The rear shoe will still be attached to the parking brake cable. Use a screwdriver to remove
this cable. Clean the star wheel, which keeps the brake shoes adjusted and re-lubricate it.
7. Check the wheel cylinder to make sure there are no hydraulic leaks.
If there are, it needs to be replaced. This can be done by first loosening the brake line
coming from the car, and then loosening the bolts on the back of the cylinder. This can be a
somewhat awkward procedure, because the bolts are hard to access.
8. Put the new cylinder on.
Always attach the brake fitting first, before the bolts, to avoid crossthreading. After it bolting
into place, reattach the brake line.
If you are replacing the shoes and the wheel cylinder, replace the cylinder first. Make sure
you put the primary shoe on the front of the backing plate. The primary shoe is normally
shorter.
Replace the back shoe first. You will need to re-attach the parking brake cable to the new
shoe. You will then replace the hold-down springs and pins. It is a good idea to put new ones
on at this point. Next, replace your cleaned and lubricated star-wheel. Then put in the
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primary shoe and replace its hold-down springs and pins. Finally, take your brake pliers and
attach your brake springs. If you become confused about how the assembly should look,
refer to the brake on the other side of your car or your service manual. Rock the brake shoes
back and forth to make sure that they will stay in place.
9. Clean off any grease from your hands that got on the shoes.
Do not use a brake cleaner, as it contains a petroleum distillate, which tends to destroy the
material in the shoes.
10. Replace the drum.
It should fit easily onto the front of the backing plate. Then, take your brake spoon and turn
the star wheel in the back until you can turn the wheel and feel light contact from the brake
shoes.
11. Take a turkey baster and remove the old brake fluid from the master cylinder under the
hood of the car.
Then, pour the new fluid in. Next, bleed the old fluid out by attaching a bleeder hose to the
bleeder nut located on the back of the brake assembly. Have someone pump up the brakes,
and at the same time, open the bleeder nut and drain the old fluid and bubbles remaining in
the line into your metal pan.
12. Replace the tire and wheel assembly and repeat the same procedure for the other side.
Doing brake inspection and maintenance is a relatively simple task. However, brakes are
essential to driving safety. Exercise the proper care in doing these procedures and don't
forget to refer to your vehicle's manual as much as possible.

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RUBRIC FOR PERFORMANCE
Dimension Highly Competent Competent Fairly Competent Not Yet

Competent
4 3 2 1
1. Proficiency Perform the task Perform the task Perform the task The task is not
of performing with exceptional with competence with competence performed.
servicing of performance and with standard but below standard
performance.
rear drum performance.
brakes.
2. Level of Student was able Student was able Student was able to Student was
needed to complete the to complete the complete the task unable to
assistance task without task with little with moderate complete the task
assistance assistance assistance from without major
instructor and peer assistance
3. Safety/ Student followed Student followed Student attempted Students failed to
Work habits all safety rules and most safety rules, to follow safety follow significant
have PPE all the may have rules but failed to safety rules and
time of training. forgotten one meet several PPE. PPE.
PPE.
4. Speed/ Work finished Work finished No concept of
Time ahead of time close to deadline time
5. Clean up Cleaned his Students made Student somewhat Student did not
and return assigned area and effort to clean cleaned assigned clean assigned
tools returned tools to assigned area area and did not area or return
their proper place. and returned return tools to tools to proper
tools top proper proper place. place.
place.
POINTS EARNED NUMERICAL DESCRIPTIVE
Highly Competent
16 - 20 91-100
Competent
11 - 15 86-90
Fairly Competent
6 - 10 81-85
Not Yet Competent
1-5 76-80
Grade: ______________________________
Teacher’s Comment:
________________________________________________________________________________
Issued by:
Developed by:
Revision # 01
________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________.

Issued by:
Developed by:
Revision # 01
Lucban-Tayabas Road
WORK SHEET 10
Name: ______________________________ Date: ______________

Section: _____________________________
I. TITLE: Conducting Road Test
 Start and Stop the vehicle

 Identify if the vehicle is in good condition
III. TIME: 60 min.
IV. TOOLS and MATERIALS

a. Diesel fuel
b. Set of combination wrench
c. Set of socket wrench
II. Procedure
Test sequence
1. The test shall be conducted under dry conditions . No braking other than the braking for the tests
is allowed during the test, except braking for re-adjusting the measurement equipment and the trial
run before the test.
2 Designated speed The designated speed shall be 20 km/h.
3. Braking method
The test vehicle shall be braked quickly on a braking proving ground as specified in from the initial
braking speed of the designated vehicle speed ±3 km/h specified with a pedal application force of 50
± 3 daN. Measure the stopping distance at this time. The gear position of the transmission during
braking shall be neutral. It is permissible to manipulate the steering wheel during braking so that the

Issued by:
Developed by:
Revision # 01
test vehicle remains within the braking proving ground.
4. Number of tests
The number of tests shall be five for each condition. If any provisions concerning the initial braking speed,
gear position of the transmission during braking and the pedal application force deviate, or if braking falls
under the conditions in the following paragraphs, the braking shall be regarded as valid and shall be included
in the number of tests:
(a) Cases where the required test results could not be obtained because of malfunctioning of measurement
equipment or other malfunctions, or cases where the test results are judged explicitly as wrong
(b) Cases where there was apparent wrong operation by the driver, such as extremely slow application of the
brake pedal

Issued by:
Developed by:
Revision # 01
RUBRIC FOR PERFORMANCE
Dimension Highly Competent Competent Fairly Competent Not Yet

Competent
4 3 2 1
1. Proficiency Perform the task Perform the task Perform the task The task is not
of performing with exceptional with competence with competence performed.
road test of performance and with standard but below standard
performance.
brake system performance.
2. Level of Student was able Student was able Student was able to Student was
needed to complete the to complete the complete the task unable to
assistance task without task with little with moderate complete the task
assistance assistance assistance from without major
instructor and peer assistance
3. Safety/ Student followed Student followed Student attempted Students failed to
Work habits all safety rules and most safety rules, to follow safety follow significant
have PPE all the may have rules but failed to safety rules and
time of training. forgotten one meet several PPE. PPE.
PPE.
4. Speed/ Work finished Work finished No concept of
Time ahead of time close to deadline time
5. Clean up Cleaned his Students made Student somewhat Student did not
and return assigned area and effort to clean cleaned assigned clean assigned
tools returned tools to assigned area area and did not area or return
their proper place. and returned return tools to tools to proper
tools top proper proper place. place.
place.
POINTS EARNED NUMERICAL DESCRIPTIVE
Highly Competent
16 - 20 91-100
Competent
11 - 15 86-90
Fairly Competent
6 - 10 81-85
Not Yet Competent
1-5 76-80
Grade: ______________________________
Teacher’s Comment:
________________________________________________________________________________
Issued by:
Developed by:
Revision # 01
________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________.

Issued by:
Developed by:
Revision # 01

10 Info and Work Sheet Service Brake System

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10 Info and Work Sheet Service Brake System

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BANAHAW TECHNOLOGICAL COLLEGE INC.

Name: ______________________________ Date: ______________

I. TITLE: SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM

1.Match terms associated with brake systemto the correctdefinitions.

Information Sheet 10.1-1

How Brakes Work

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

The handbrake acts on the shoes by means of a mechanical system, separate

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

 Mechanical advantage (leverage)

HOW BRAKES WORK

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

When Do You Need to Replace Your Brakes?

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

How to Check Your Brake Pads

What Needs To Be Done?

How Often to Check the Brake Pads on Your Vehicle:

Listen to your brakes

Look at the wheels

 Brake dust accumulation in the wheel is another sign of wear.

Observe the brake pad

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

The Drum Brake

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Replacing Brake Pad

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

A new brake pad (top) and a worn brake pad (bottom)

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

A. Drum Brake C. Brakes

A. Drum Brake C. Brakes

A. Wheel Cylinder C. Drum Brake

A. Every 3 months C. Every 6 -12 months

5. Which statement is false about checking brake pads.

6. In removing caliper bolts which statement is false.

10. Which statement is correct?

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Name: ______________________________ Date: ______________

I. TITLE: SERVICING REAR DRUM BREAK

II. OBJECTIVES: the students must be able to

 Assemble and disassemble rear drum break.

III. TIME: 60 min.

IV. TOOLS and MATERIALS

6. Look at the brake shoes to see if they are worn down.

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Dimension Highly Competent Competent Fairly Competent Not Yet

POINTS EARNED NUMERICAL DESCRIPTIVE

Date Developed: Apr. 24, 2014 Document No.

Name: ______________________________ Date: ______________

I. TITLE: Conducting Road Test

II. OBJECTIVES: the students must be able to

 Start and Stop the vehicle

III. TIME: 60 min.

Name: ________________ Date:

Name: ________________ Date:

Name: ________________ Date: