Advanced Beekeeping Manual - English

English
Second edition March 2011
Advanced Beekeeping
Manual 2
Sharing experiences helps to make things work better.
This manual is dedicated to all those beekeeping trainers who work so hard to help
others to gain better livelihoods from successful beekeeping.
Author Pam Gregory
Manual sponsored by
Editorial assistance provided by Gay Marris, UK National Bee Unit (Fera)
How to use this manual
It is well accepted that beekeeping can offer people a way of

generating additional income. Beekeeping also offers wider
advantages such as pollination services that promote food security
and biodiversity protection. Forest trees, that provide the purest
honey, are better protected by the presence of beekeepers and
beekeepers associations and this in turn protects the environment.
However, beekeeping is not always easy. In 2008 we produced a

Basic Beekeeping Manual designed to give people the basic
information they need to start work as bee farmers. This Advanced
Beekeeping Manual covers more advanced management techniques
and problem solving and offers some ideas about how to tackle
them.
Sharing ideas and experiences is always useful. This manual is

intended to promote discussion so that people develop successful
methods and solve problems locally. The manual concentrates on top
bar hive beekeeping, but many of the techniques and ideas can also
be used by traditional and frame hive beekeepers.
This Advanced Beekeeping Manual is designed primarily for use by

field based trainers in sub Saharan Africa. It is in English so it is
expected that trainers will be able to translate the ideas into local
languages using the pictures to promote better understanding of the
techniques. However, the Basic Beekeeping Manual is available in
other languages (French, Kiswahili, Chichewa and English).
Availability of both manuals can be checked on the UK National Bee
Unit BeeBase website www.nationalbeeunit.com or by contacting
Pam Gregory on [email protected] A text-based trainers
manual is also available, on request to Pam Gregory, that explains
the ‘Why’ as well as the ‘How’ of development beekeeping.
Pam Gregory has kept bees since 1974. She worked for Happy Beekeeping
the UK National Bee Unit from 1976-2003. She holds the Pam Gregory August 2010
UK National Diploma in Beekeeping and an MSc in
Overseas Rural Development. She has spent the last 15
years working with beekeepers in developing countries.
Decision making tool for planning a new beekeeping intervention
Advanced Beekeeping Manual 2: ©Author Pam Gregory, who offers this as her gift to beekeepers in developing countries
DO NOT
NATURAL PROCEED
RESOURCES NO Can trees

be planted
Are sufficient as part of PROCEED
flowering the
trees project? Honey INCLUDE
available to bees are BEE
provide wild Does the essential KEEPING
bees for project pollinators IN THE
colonising include of many PROJECT
beehives & fruit fruit and WHEN
nectar to make growing? other POSSIBLE
honey? crops
crops –
YES PROCEED
PEOPLE NO DO NOT
NO PROCEED
Are
There
Are
traditional
there
beekeepers
traditional
in the
beekeepers Can new Can Can DO NOT
area?
in the producers sufficient barriers to PROCEED
area? gain reliable production
sufficient production be
be identified
YES
YES
production
scale developed and
without to allow overcome? PROCEED
comprom- sustain-
ising able
existing distant
producer’s market
live- links?
lihoods? PROCEED
DO NOT
PROCEED
NEW PRODUCERS NO DO NOT

PROCEED
Are Can a
finance, sustain-
Can PROCEED
equipment, able model
beekeeping
& materials of
technology
in place, & personal
be Is training
available at investment
sustainably available?
the right be
introduced
time of introduced PROJECT
to producer
year? to enable WILL
groups?
scaling HAVE
up? SMALLER
IMPACT
YES Are existing beekeepers willing to

use new production technology/be
included in selling co-ops/become
trainers? Can beekeepers be incorporated
within producer groups or as
individuals?
Have
internal
BUSINESS
Can
producers Is economic Can
combine sufficient viability producers/
ENVIRONMENT FEW on a group (overheads
running
consolidat-
sufficient leadership ors be
scale to available? costs etc.) provided
cover start been with the
Is there a up & assessed? capital and
profitable annual skills
local running required
market? costs? within
Are there timeframe
existing
Can group DO NOT of inter-
trading
be made PROCEED vention?
stronger to
schemes
improve
in the
trade
area?
terms?
Are market Can
links fair to
MANY stake-
leadership,
business skills
holders? and
transparent
Do not financial PROCEED
undertake procedures be
any strengthened?
marketing
project
1
Improving Colonisation
Rates
A swarm of bees is just entering this hive in Garissa, Kenya.

They are entering though the roof.
Getting swarms to colonise hives naturally is a key problem in

development beekeeping.
Additional pictures provided by John Home, Brian Durk, Felicien Menagon Amakpe,
Claire Waring and Adrian Waring
Advanced Beekeeping Manual 2: Improving Colonisation Rates (© Author Pam Gregory, who offers this as her gift
to beekeepers in developing countries)
2
Colonising hives is one of the biggest problems that face African

beekeepers. This is because colonisation is normally done by
natural means. This means the bees have to find the
beekeeper’s hive more attractive than any of the natural
alternatives.
Lack of colonised hives means that the beekeeper is not

maximising the use of the capital that has been put into making
the hives.
This crowded
apiary is not
colonised at all.
This means that
the investment
made in hives is
being wasted.
The following ideas can all be used to improve colonisation.

Some are more effective than others. Some are practised but
are not recommended.
1. Making sure there are wild bees available as parent colonies
2. Setting out hives at the right time of year
3. Baiting the hives
4. Maintaining clean hives prior to colonisation
5. Placing swarm catcher boxes in migration routes
6. Collecting swarms
7. Dividing colonies
8. Queen rearing
9. Transferring a wild or a traditionally managed colony
3
1. MAKING SURE THERE ARE WILD BEES AVAILABLE AS

PARENT COLONIES
Making sure wild bees thrive will lead to lots of bees for
colonising people’s beehives.
REMEMBER - TREES MEAN BEES

Good trees make good places for bees to live. Trees give wild
bees nest places, plenty of food to eat and shade so it is not too
hot.
This rain forest in Benin is an excellent for bees.
This arid land in Northern Kenya has plenty of Acacia trees and
scrub to support the bees.
4
If there is poor colonisation there may not be enough trees to

support the bee’s life comfortably.
This degraded landscape is

not good for bees
Plant indigenous and multipurpose trees or flowering crops to help the

bees.
2. SETTING OUT HIVES AT THE RIGHT TIME OF YEAR
Some times of year are better than others for catching swarms
of bees. Talk to local beekeepers to find out the best times for
colonisation in your area.
5
3. BAITING THE HIVES
Good baits and clean hives will help attract a swarm of bees to
live in the hive. The best bait is beeswax because it smells good
to the bees. Use plenty of wax around the inside of the hive and
at the entrance.
A top bar with a fresh wax starter strip is excellent for

attracting bees. Don’t use honey. The bees will take it away but
will not stay once it is gone.
Bees can be attracted to

certain leaves and plant
materials. Things that
sometimes succeed are
lemon grass, local wine
or beer, cassava or maize
flour and banana skins.
Propolis is also attractive to bees and can be rubbed around the

hive entrance.
This beekeeper from

DR Congo is collecting
propolis from the top
bars of the hive. Bees
use propolis to mend
holes and gaps in the
hive.
The propolis
collected should
not be pressed
into a ball.
6
This innovative
swarm bait is made
of cardboard that has
been placed on the
top bars of a full hive
for a while so it
smells strongly of
bees.
Some strong smelling wood may repel bees. Some wood used
for traditional hives may attract bees. Traditional hives are
always colonised most quickly. A hive that has already had bees
in will colonise more quickly than a new one.
4. MAINTAINING CLEAN HIVES
ATTEND TO THE DETAILS
Bees are very clean and want a clean home. They will not move
into a hive that is leaking or has rats, spiders or other
undesirable creatures already living there.
If a hive remains uncolonised after the swarming season, clean

it out, sterilise over a fire and add new baits.
7
5. PLACING SWARM CATCHING BOXES IN MIGRATION

ROUTES
Using swam catcher boxes especially in migration routes or

areas that are popular with swarms can be successful for
collecting swarms. Local beekeepers may be willing to suggest
good places.
A swarm catcher
box is a small top
bar hive that is
easier to move
about than a
large hive. Once
it is colonised,
the catcher box
can be brought
back to the apiary
and the combs of
bees transferred
to a bigger hive.
This transfer is
possible because
the top bars are
the same length
as the hive is
wide.
It is important that the new hive is put in its intended final

position. The bees know the exact place that is their home.
Whenever bees need relocating they must always be moved

more than three kilometres, otherwise they will fly straight back
to their original home again.
8
6. COLLECTING SWARMS
Collecting a hanging swarm can also help to colonise empty

hives. It is not easy with tropical bees as they are very prone to
absconding.
Before a colony swarms it will build up into a very strong colony

and start making lots of drone brood.
Drone brood is
easy to identify
as it is larger
than worker
brood and the
cappings are
more domed.
Drone brood removal can be used

as a simple test for the presence
of Varroa mites.
Once the bees have

enough drone brood
they will start building
the distinctive peanut
shaped queen cells.
Once the queen cells
are sealed the bees
are ready to swarm.
9
When they are ready

the swarm of bees
will fly out of the
hive.
This is a swarm flying

out of the hive. Bees
are usually quite
calm when they are
swarming.
After a while the

bees will cluster
together and hang in
a tree while they
decide where to
make their new
home.
At this point it is
possible for the
beekeeper to collect
them and introduce
them into a hive.
Swarms should be collected in the evening. The swarm is

shaken carefully into a box or swarm catcher hive. It is
important to be sure the queen goes into the box or the bees
will not stay there.
10
The bees will gradually

collect in the box to join
the queen. They can be
smoked gently to
encourage them to go
inside.
Prepare a new hive

and make a space
between the top bars
so it is possible to tip
the swarm in quickly.
Take the box to the

new hive and shake
the bees into it
carefully, making
sure the queen goes
into the hive. Then
replace the top bars
quickly.
The bees will probably

abscond unless they are
shut in for a few days.
Stuff the entrance with
grass or use a paperclip
stuck across the entrance
to keep the queen in. This
is sometimes called a
“queen includer”.
Bees also like comb containing brood very much. Brood

encourages bees to stay in the hive. Dead brood will also attract
bees as a useful bait. However, transferring brood between
hives risks spreading disease.
11
7. DIVIDING COLONIES
Colonisation by attracting natural swarms into the hive is very

random and often leads to low colonisation rates. Colonisation
rates from natural swarming are normally about 50%. Relying
on natural colonisation can mean the money invested in
beehives is not fully used.
Dividing colonies can help to improve colonisation rates without

having to wait for swarms to arrive naturally. It is especially
useful where it uses the bees’ own impulse to swarm.
Only big, strong, healthy hives with plenty of brood should be

divided.
This hive is so
strong that it may
soon swarm if it is
not divided. A
strong colony like
this may have
queen cells already
present.
It is essential
that eggs are
present in the
colony. The
workers in the
divided part of
the colony
need eggs to
be able to
make a new
queen.
This is what
honey bee
eggs look like.
12
When dividing a colony it is important that the combs are

correctly built – that is one comb on one top bar - so that combs
can be shared between two hives. If this is not the case then
this should be corrected before dividing starts.
Remember - the
width of the two
hives needs to be
the same so that
top bars can be
transferred
between hives.
Two or three people are needed to carry out the procedure.

Work as a team quickly, methodically and carefully. You will
need two hives – the ACTIVE hive that is to be divided and a
new EMPTY hive for the new colony.
Here the team is

preparing the
empty hive and
the apiary area
ready to make
the division.
Hives should be
about two to four
metres apart.
If necessary,
make a clear path
between the two
hives so walking
between them is
easy.
There are many methods of dividing colonies. The following

method is very reliable. The procedure needs to be carried out
in the cool of the early morning. Start time should be at dawn.
13
PREPARATION AND PROCEDURE
(i) Select a strong colony for division. Two or three days

before starting, inspect the colony to ensure it has eggs.
EGGS ARE ESSENTIAL FOR THE NEW COLONY TO MAKE A
NEW QUEEN. If no eggs are present the procedure should
not be carried out. Wait until eggs are present.
(ii) Smoke the active

hive well for two to
three minutes.
(iii) Very carefully lower the active hive that is going to be

divided from its wires, and move it into the new position.
Using a hive
carrier made
of sticks
lashed
together with
string to
support the
hive makes
moving the
active hive
easier if
hanging
wires are
used.
(iv) HANG THE EMPTY HIVE IN THE POSITION THAT WAS

OCCUPIED BY THE ACTIVE HIVE. You will notice the flying
bees will quickly start moving out of the active hive and
into the new empty hive.
14
(v) The active hive is now on the floor close to its new
position. Continue smoking the bees well. They will be
less troublesome as the flying bees will have already
returned to their original hive site.
(vi) Go through the colony and select the combs to be

transferred to the new hive. First select one comb with
honey and pollen.
15
(vii) Gently brush ALL the bees off the comb and back inside the
active hive. Then transfer the comb from the active hive to
the new hive.
(viii) Next find the brood combs. Inspect each brood comb and if
it is suitable (it should contain plenty of eggs and brood),
once again brush ALL the bees back into the hive and
transfer the comb to the new hive.
16
(ix) Repeat this for each comb until enough good brood combs
have been transferred into the new hive. Transfer the
combs carefully one at a time. Transfer at least six of the
best combs from the active hive to the new hive.
(x) REMEMBER: IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT ALL THE BEES ARE

BRUSHED BACK INTO THE ACTIVE HIVE SO THE QUEEN IS
LEFT BEHIND. About half the combs must be left in the
active hive to provide space for the queen to lay eggs and
for food storage.
(xi) The selected combs are taken to the new hive one at a
time and put into the hive starting from the entrance. All
the brood combs must be placed next to each other when
they are placed in the new hive.
17
(xii) REMEMBER: IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT EGGS ARE PRESENT ON

THE BROOD COMBS PUT INTO THE NEW HIVE SO THEY CAN
MAKE A NEW QUEEN. They will first make special cells
called queen cells.
Sometimes queen cells will already be present in the active

colony. This is especially good as the active colony is already
making a new queen. If UNSEALED queen cells are present the
colony is already planning to divide naturally by swarming and
the chances of success will be increased.
This is an unsealed queen cell.

The bees are busy feeding the
young queen larva.
If SEALED queen cells are present the colony has already

swarmed. New queens are already forming inside the queen
cells.
This is what
sealed queen
cells look like.
If queen cells are already present, at least one brood comb with
queen cells on it should be very carefully transferred into the
new hive. One brood comb with queen cells on it should be left
in the active hive in case the queen is lost during the division.
18
(xiii) Replace each brood comb that is removed with a new top
bar. If possible the top bars should be primed with wax so
the bees will build new comb in the correct position – one
comb to one top bar.
(xiv) Fill up all the empty spaces with new top bars so both
hives are complete, and then replace the lids.
(xv) Hang up the active hive in its new position.
19
(xvi) Check the new queen has been successfully reared and is
laying eggs. This can take up to four weeks.
Plenty of
new worker
larvae show
the new
queen is
well mated
and active
and that the
division has
been
successful.
WARNING: Dividing bees always carries some risk of damage to the

bees so should only be done if the beekeeper is willing to take this
risk. Only experiment if you have plenty of colonies and do not mind
loosing one.
8. QUEEN REARING
Many people think that queen rearing will help with colonisation
problems. It will not.
Because of the problems with absconding and the possibility for

laying workers the queen rearing methods designed for
temperate bees are not ideal for African bees.
Queen rearing is best used for

very specialist areas such as:
bee breeding and selection to

improve the traits of
honeybee colonies
commercial sales of colonies
and queens
royal jelly production.
If dividing colonies is not enough to meet your needs then

contact me personally by e-mail or letter to discuss it.
20
9. TRANSFERRING COLONIES
People often want to transfer colonies of bees from traditional

or wild hives. Transferring colonies usually fails. This is because
the queen is lost during the transfer or because the bees
abscond afterwards. Unless a hive has fallen or is in danger:
DON’T TRANSFER IT
Keep hives as parent colonies to provide swarms for the future.
This fallen hive may be a good one for transferring.
Cut each comb out carefully. Tie each one onto a prepared top
bar. Brush and shake all the bees gently into the new hive
making sure to include the queen. The queen will probably be
hiding in the bees left behind so is very easily lost or killed.
21
The bees will obligingly reattach the comb and remove the
string.
This
transferred
comb was
not tied
tightly
enough and
the bees are
struggling to
fill the up
gap. Notice
how the
honeycomb is
crooked too.
1
Trees for Bees

No trees – no bees
No honey – no money
The very best honey is produced from the great diversity of

indigenous forest trees.
Brachystegia spp Combretum spp and Julbernadia globiflora are

nectar bearing trees found in the miombo forest. Miombo honey
is one of the finest.
Images provided by Paul Latham with additional material by Pam Gregory, John
Home, Roy Dyche, Gay Marris, Selwyn Wilkins and Tom Carrol
Advanced Beekeeping Manual 2: Trees for Bees (© Author Pam Gregory, who offers this as her gift to beekeepers
in developing countries)
2
African honey bees are not normally fed sugar. This makes it
very important that plenty of nectar bearing flowers are
available for as long as possible during the year.
In many places beekeepers and farmers plant multi purpose

trees to meet their household needs. There is a great selection
of multi-purpose trees but trees that also produce nectar are
very helpful for improving honey production. Try to select some
plants that flower early or late in the season so bees have more
food during dearth periods. This will help to reduce absconding.
Multi-purpose trees commonly selected by beekeepers are: -
Mango – Mangifera indica Pigeon pea – Cajanus cajan
Used for firewood, fruit, Used for firewood, food,

fodder, soil conservation and fodder, nitrogen fixing, and
gum. soil improvement.
Acacia spp
All species of Acacia produce Faidherbia albida. Used

excellent nectar. for nitrogen fixing,
fodder, firewood,
timber.
3
Eucalypts Citrus
All species of Eucalyptus All species of citrus produce

produce nectar. nectar and fruit better if they
are pollinated by honey bees.
NOTE: Eucalypts should not be planted near other crops as the

crops’ yields will be reduced.
Ornamental and live fencing trees that produce nectar and

pollen can be used to screen apiaries, making it easier to keep
bees near the homestead.
Bottle brush – Leucaena leucocephala

Callistemon citrinius. (alt L. glauca).
Used for firewood, fodder, soil

improvement.
Can be used for
firewood.
4
These special trees are also excellent bee forage trees. Check if
they grow in your area.
Moringa oleifera Macadamia nut –

(M. pterygosperma) Macadamia tetraphylla
Used for flavouring, medicine, Used for cash crop nuts,

fodder, soil conservation, timber, cosmetic oil, timber
fibre, live fence, tannin, oil and and firewood.
water purification.
Jatropha curcas
Used for fuel oil, medicine, soap and cash crop for biodiesel oil.
5
Do not overlook small flowers that can be valuable to bees.
This common species, Bidens This tiny Fuchsia plant

pilosa, also makes a soothing flowers in the dearth period
balm for bee stings. and reduces absconding.
Many nectar bearing plants are also useful food and cash crops.
Avocado, coffee, cotton, egg plants, guava, mango, paw-paw,
pumpkin family and sunflower are just a few of the food crops
improved by bee pollination.
Paw-paw – Carica papaya Cassava - Manihot esculenta
Avocado – Persea Americana Sunflower – Helianthus annuus
6
Sunflower – Helianthus annuus
Sunflower is used for seeds

and oils. In some areas it is
an important cash crop.
Kenyan kale - Brassica oleracea
All Brassica species are very attractive to bees, and bee

pollination greatly increases their yield. Honey from Brassicas
will granulate more quickly than other honeys.
Coffee - Coffea canephora
Coffee yields are increased by bee pollination, and beekeeping

makes an ideal livelihood diversification for coffee farmers.
7
Banana – Musa spp.
Banana is a
nectar and
pollen
bearing plant
but does not
depend on
honeybee
pollination
for
propagation.
Some trees, like this Gliricidium

sepium, provide out of season
nectar which is very important
for the bees during the dearth
period. Look out for suitable
trees and flowers in your area.
It is also important for

honey bees to have water
in the dry periods. This
should be supplied in a
shallow container so that
the bees do not drown. It
will need topping up
regularly.
1
Things That Can Go Wrong
And how to make them go right again
Beekeeping is not always straightforward. Sharing experiences

helps to make things work better.
Additional pictures provided by Roy Dyche, Robert Kajobe, Mike Allsopp, James
Morton (CSL), Claire Waring, David Wilkinson (Fera), Felicien Menagon and Fera
Photographic services
Advanced Beekeeping Manual 2: Things that can go wrong (© Author Pam Gregory, who offers this as her gift to
beekeepers in developing countries)
2
CORRECTING CROSSED COMBS
To get best results from moveable comb hives ONE COMB ON

ONE TOP BAR is needed. Inspection and harvesting is more
difficult and the management advantages of having top bars are
lost if bees attach combs to more than one top bar.
The width of the top bar is important to encourage the bees to

build one comb on one top bar. It should be exactly 3.2 cm
wide.
This can be checked using a bottle top as a simple measuring

device.
3
Is this one the correct size? Is this one the correct size?
If the comb is wild inside the top bar hive then the advantages
of this type of hive are lost.
Sometimes it is possible
to reduce top bars that
are too big.
A soft but durable wood

such as the raphia palm
is very good for making
top bars.
Sometimes the bees will build more than one comb on one top
bar. It is usually possible to correct the situation by cutting and
retying.
Two people
are needed
to do this –
one for
holding and
one for
cutting and
tying.
4
1. Cut comb along shortest distance of incorrect attachment to

separate the comb from the wrong top bar.
2. Bend comb around and tie it to the correct top bar with
string.
3.The bees will reattach the comb to the top bar and remove the
string.
5
PESTS, DISEASES AND OTHER PROBLEMS
Like any animals, honey bees need to be cared for if they are to
be productive. These simple guidelines will help to look after
the bees:
Visit the apiary often, to check the hives are safe and healthy.
Keep the ground around the hives

clear, to reduce pests such as
beetles, toads and lizards.
Where practical, fire breaks should

be made around apiaries to give
some fire protection.
Protect against unwanted visitors such as thieves and large

animals.
The most significant problem in tropical beekeeping is ants.

Ants can destroy a hive easily if they are not kept out.
This thick string of ants has destroyed this hive.
A band of grease prevents ants from crossing into the hive. The
hive hanging wires or the legs of the hive stands must be
greased regularly to have any chance of avoiding ant problems.
Keeping the apiary free of vegetation will help. It may help to
remove ants’ nests in the area.
6
The legs of stands must be covered with grease or put in tins of

oil so ants cannot climb into the hive.
Putting the feet of

the stand into tins of
oil can stop ants from
climbing up.
Termites will damage neglected hives. Neglected hives may

also fall and cause danger to people.
Termite damage.
7
A fallen hive
causes
danger to
others.
There are many other pests that cause problems for the bees.
Lizards are insectivorous and will eat the bees.
Lizards can be
avoided by not
having landing
boards on the
hive and by
keeping the
ground clear.
Honey guides, bee eaters, woodpeckers and other insectivorous

birds will eat bees.
Normally, birds do not

eat so many bees that it
damages the hive. If
birds do cause a problem
the hive should be moved
to another place.
This shows woodpecker

damage.
8
Uncolonised hives must be kept clean. Otherwise, they provide

good homes for unwanted visitors such as snakes, rats,
millipedes, spiders, cockroaches and scorpions.
A millipede has moved in
Bees will never colonise

hives that are like this.
Other insect pests include bee pirates, bee wolf, wasps and
hornets.
These need to destroyed individually when they are seen. If

they get too many, the hives will have to be moved.
9
Neglected combs can get infested with wax moth.
Wax moth can kill weak colonies. Caring for your colonies keeps
them strong. Harvest wax combs from hives where the bees have
absconded colonies to prevent infestation.
Wax moth is often called “the beekeeper’s friend” because it

destroys honey comb, as well as any disease this might contain.
10
The Small hive beetle makes the bees appear uncomfortable.

The beetles are scavengers in the hive. Their larvae eat bee
brood, pollen and honey.
Small hive
beetle in the
colony.
Be very clean in the apiary –

don’t leave hive debris lying
around to attract beetles.
Strong colonies withstand the
beetles better. Some colonies
are better able to resist
infestation, and should be
selected preferentially. In
severe cases, where serious
damage is being caused to the
bees, a soil drench can be used
on the ground around the hives
to kill the beetle pupae.
Large hive beetle can also be a nuisance.
They can be excluded from

the colony by keeping the
hive entrances small.
Hive entrances should be

no wider than the size of a
biro.
Lots of small entrances are

better than one big one.
11
Some mammals can be pests too. Where the honey badger is a

problem, hives need to be raised up out of their reach.
Notice how
the wires are
twisted into a
single strand.
This tips the
hive so that it
swings if a
honey badger
attacks it.
Use hanging wires if honey

badgers are a danger. The
hanging wires must allow the hive
to swing easily to keep animals
away. Hang hives at least 1 metre
from the ground.
If stands are used, they must be

very firmly fixed.
Hives need to be protected from man and other primates. The

biggest problems can be caused by vandals and thieves.
If monkeys are
a problem,
spiky sticks
can be put on
top of the hive.
12
African bees can suffer from diseases too. American foul brood
(AFB) is the only serious disease of African honey bees. AFB is
a bacterial disease that kills the brood. The colony gets weaker
and weaker until it finally dies. It is very infectious and there is
no cure.
Dark, sunken,
perforated
cappings and
patchy brood are
characteristic of
AFB.
This comb is
badly infected
and the colony
should be
destroyed by
burning.
Ropiness test for

AFB:
If you suspect your

colony has AFB,
push a small stick
into a cell and pull it
out again. If it is
ropy, this is a clear
diagnostic
indication of AFB
disease.
Top bar and traditional methods of beekeeping keep the

incidence of AFB low, because much of the comb is harvested,
removing infection from the colony. However, modern
management methods that encourage combs to be moved
between hives will increase the risks of spreading disease.
Varroa mites are occasionally found

in Africa. In temperate areas, they
are strongly associated with a range
of bacterial and viral diseases.
However, African bees appear to be
naturally resistant to the mites.
13
African bees are very susceptible to laying workers. This is

usually caused when the beekeeper carries out an unsuccessful
manipulation – for example a failed hive division. The queen is
lost and the bees are unable to replace her. Because there are
no queen pheromones to stop them, the workers will eventually
start to lay eggs. Since the workers are unmated, their eggs
will always become drones. As a result, the colony will
inevitably die out.
Laying
workers and
drone-laying
queens are
easily
recognised
because they
lay drone eggs
in worker
cells.
The result is
these very
raised
capping, which
are easily
recognised.
Queens become drone-layers when they run out of sperm,

either because of poor mating or because they are old.
14
SWARMING, MIGRATING AND ABSCONDING
Swarming, migrating and absconding are all different. These

behaviours help bees to survive in a tropical environment.
Swarming is the natural

means of reproduction or
division of a colony. Part of
the colony is left behind and
part forms a new colony.
It usually occurs because the

queen does not have strong
enough pheromones (or hive
smell) to keep the workers
together as one unit – often
because she is old.
It may happen several times a year or not at all. It depends on

the size, the resources and the circumstances of the hive.
A hive that swarms a lot will not be as productive as a hive that

does not swarm because the resources of the colony are being
used by two or more colonies.
Migration is the natural seasonal movement of colonies to new

resources and happens every year in a predictable cycle.
Absconding is the response of the colony to limited resources or

unpleasant circumstances.
Absconding can be planned or

unplanned.
Planned absconding is usually

in response to lack of food. As
the food coming into the hive
gets less the queen stops
laying eggs and the whole
colony moves out after the
young brood has hatched. The
bees take as much of the
hive’s resources as they can.
Unplanned absconding is usually in response to poor

circumstances such as bush fire, ants or other pests, water
leaking into the hive or excessive disturbance.
In both migration and absconding ALL the bees leave the hive to
find a new home.
1
How to Make a Bee Suit
Salome in Kenya has a bee suit made from a maize sack. It is

made of two parts so it doesn’t need a zip.
Advanced Beekeeping Manual 2: How to make a Bee Suit (© Author Pam Gregory, who offers this as her gift to
2
HOW TO MAKE A BEE SUIT WITH BUILT IN VEIL
Bee suits can be made of a variety of materials. Good bee suit

material is tough, cheap and protects from bee stings. A well-
washed maize flour bag is an excellent choice.
Open up the bags and trim any torn edges. Select the material
to be used carefully to make the most of what is available.
Use an old pair of trousers to outline the shape of the suit

bottom.
3
Notice how the shape of the pieces

allow room for the gusset area
(this is where the leg pieces join).
gusset
Don’t waste
TOP material. Make
the most of the
material
available by
putting one leg
upwards and one
leg downwards.
TOP
Cut four trouser

pieces.
4
Stitch together inner edges Repeat for the other two

of the gusset area first to pieces to make the back of
make the front of the the trousers.
trousers. The material can
also be stitched by hand.
Next join the inner leg edges. Now join the outer edges of the
trousers.
Notice these
“frayed”
edges
A “seam” is where two edges are joined.
5
Neaten the seams where Try trousers on to check

they have frayed. the size.
The waist and bottom of the trouser legs are folded over twice
and stitched. This will make them neat and gives a gap to insert
a string or elastic, which will hold the trousers up and keep the
ankles tight.
folding over the bottom of a trouser leg
Insert strings into both legs and at the waist using a safety pin,
hairpin or similar thin, blunt object that will help guide the
string through the seam to finish the trousers.
6
This is how to insert the string or elastic:
1. Fold the edge over once. 2. Fold it again so all the torn
(frayed) edges are inside the
fold and stitch together.
Stitch along
this line
3. This is the view of the gap 4. Push the string through the
that the string will be pushed gap using a blunt object to
through. guide it.
5. Push the string through the 6. When the string is pulled

gap using the blunt object to tight it will look like this and
make it go along until it comes help to keep the bees out.
out of the other end.
7
TAILORING DETAILS
The seams must be made stronger to prevent the material from

fraying (breaking).
You can do this by over sewing the seam:
Over sewn seam

Putting stitches
over the edge
makes an “over
sewn” seam
Alternatively, you can make a “run and fell seam” that will
protect the edges of the material and makes a very strong join.
Making a run and fell seam:
1. Leave enough 2.
material here to
cover the joined
edges (seam).
Stitch along this line to join the Fold flap of material over the
two edges. This is called a seam. seam and stitch down.
You can also cover the seam with tape or extra strips of
material, and this will make joins stronger too.
8
To make the top of the bee Add a square on the top to

suit, start with an old coat and make the hat and veil of the
draw out the shape on the suit.
material allowing plenty of
room to turn over the edges.
Cut two pieces - one front and one back
HAT
With built in
veil made of
mosquito
netting
BACK FRONT
9
Stitch the side edges and Before stitching netting

neaten the bottom so that it into place, check position
will take a string or elastic. of shoulder joins and face
Then try for size. area. Then stitch netting
into place. Get help to do
this.
HAT
BOTTOM
Mark out the position of the This is the bee suit top
hole for the veil hole on the without the sleeves
front of the hat. This is made inserted.
of an insert of mosquito
netting stitched into place.
HAT
10
Draw out two sleeve shapes.

Notice the special shape that
will allow the sleeve to fit
over the shoulders when the
suit is stitched together.
Cut the two pieces.
Stitch sleeves together, neaten the material at the wrists so

they will take a string and then insert sleeves into the bee suit
top.
11
The completed bee suit. Notice plastic bags over the shoes and
tied at the ankle to protect the feet. Rubber gloves are the best
bee gloves to use.
rubber gloves
plastic bags
over the
shoes, tied at
the ankles
The completed bee suit
This bee
suit is made
in one piece
with a more
complicated
hat design.
A one piece
suit needs
zips to get
into it.
1
Adding Value to Honey bee

Products
Distilling alcohol from fermented honey in Zambia. Honey has

been used for centuries to make fermented drinks such as mead
or honey beer.
A wide range of other value added products can be made that

includes candles, polish and cosmetics as well as cooked
products made using honey. Making value added products is
especially suited to women’s traditional skills.
Additional images Janet Lowore (Bees for Development), Fera, John Home and Roy
Dyche
Advanced Beekeeping Manual 2: Adding value to Honey Bee Products (© Author Pam Gregory, who offers this as
her gift to beekeepers in developing countries)
2
VALUE ADDED PRODUCTS
Adding value means turning more of the hive products into

complex goods, or accessing the selling chain more effectively
so that extra money and sales return to the beekeeper. It is
especially effective for products using beeswax.
The range of ingredients and

containers available for value
added products is often limited.
Variations can be made by
adding extra ingredients that
may be available locally.
Experimentation with recipes to

develop a good range of
products is essential for good
value added production. Some
basic recipes are included at the
end of this section.
Making candles
Many types of candles can be made. The choice will depend on
the type of market and the available moulds. Candle moulds can
vary - eggshells, bamboo, water pipes or papaya stalks are all
successful.
This women’s group in Malawi This disabled woman in

is making candles using plastic Tanzania has a candle made
water pipes as moulds. The using an imported mould.
bottom is closed with a bottle
top.
3
The principle of candle making is the same in each case. The

wax must be clean. The method for cleaning wax is shown in
the Basic Beekeeping Manual 1.
To make a moulded candle:
1. Melt wax to liquid in a 2. Cut the wick to size. Some

double boiler over the people coat the wick in wax
fire. to keep it straight.
3. Soap the mould to stop the 4. Make sure the bottom end
candle sticking. This mould is is well plugged so the wax
bamboo. cannot run out.
5. Set the wick in the centre of 6. Pour the melted wax

the mould using a split stick or carefully into the mould.
hairpin to hold it in place.
4
The finished item
These candles are made using a commercial mould from

Zimbabwe.
Candles can also be made by

dipping the wick directly into a
container of melted wax, drawing it
out and allowing the wax to set.
This is repeated many times to build
up the layers of wax into a large
candle.
With skill candles as good as these

can be made.
5
Making a simple light
This simple light is made in a

tin can, a clay pot or a cut off
beer can. The candle is
burned in the mould and
lasts well because all the wax
burns and none runs down
the edge of the candle.
Night lights are made in a

similar manner.
1. Melt beeswax in a double 2. Prepare tin and wick.

boiler over the fire.
3. Support wick with split stick. 4. Pour in wax and leave to set.
It is not necessary to remove the finished candle from the tin.
6
Making a basic body cream or ointment
1. Measure oil and beeswax into 2. Place the container into a

a heatproof container. double boiler over the fire.
3. Heat until the wax has melted 4. Add any scents or medicinal
and blended into the oil. Stir ingredients at this point. Stir
well. well and pour into a container.
Leave until set.
Lip balms can be made using this method. Pour into a suitable
container.
An effective medicinal skin cream can

be made by melting propolis into
Vaseline using the double boiler method
described above.
7
Making a soft cream
To make a softer cream, add water to the basic recipe. As oil

and water don’t mix, this requires an emulsifier.
1. Measure oil and beeswax 2. Make a suitable container

into a heatproof container and for stirring.
heat until blended together.
Measure water and emulsifier
(if available) into a second
heatproof container.
3. Blend the water into the oil 4. Pour into a suitable

and wax mixture stirring hard container.
all the time until it goes thick.
It needs two people.
The simplest emulsifier is borax (sodium borate). To make a

liquid lotion add alcohol until the desired consistency is
reached. Soft creams will need a suitable preservative if they
are to keep well.
8
Making polish
1. Collect together ingredients. 2. Melt beeswax in a double

boiler.
3. Put turpentine or suitable 4. Pour melted beeswax into

spirit into mixing container. turpentine mixing constantly
until they blend.
5. Beeswax can be coloured 6. Uncoloured polish will still

using different dyes. Here hair polish all types of things
dye has been used to colour keeping them protected and
black shoe polish. waterproof.
9
Appendix of honey,
propolis and beeswax
recipes
1 1 2 2
6 7
3
5
4
1. Hard body cream
2. Soft body cream 8 8
3. Clean wax
4. Emergency candle in
tin
5. Candle
6. Furniture cream
7. Shoe polish
8. Propolis tincture
10
Beeswax recipes
The following basic recipes have been compiled using
ingredients that are likely to be available in all areas.
Experimenting with the basic recipes using locally available
ingredients will enhance the product. Only use oils that are
normally used for human consumption. If it can be safely eaten
it will be safe to put on the skin. In each country the ingredients
that are easily available will vary. Look for ingredients that are
available at a reasonable cost so that the resulting creams can
be sold profitably. Be warned though – using unrefined palm oil
will make the cream look very red although this colouration
does not appear to stain skin or clothes.
Oily cream
The basic recipe for oily cream is as follows (this recipe will also
work as a lip balm):
1 measure beeswax; 4 measures of oil.

Heat all the ingredients together in a double boiler.
Stir thoroughly.
Remove from the heat and add any desired colouring,
perfume or medicinal extracts into the mixture.
Stir thoroughly again and pour into the sales container while
still warm.
For softer cream add more oil; for harder cream use less oil.
Adding a few drops of glycerine will also make the cream
softer. Adding 4 measures of Vaseline to the basic recipe will
give a smoother consistency. Glycerine can also be a nice
addition to this oil.
Herbs, propolis, lemon grass, aloe vera, vetiver root, herbal oil
extracts, essential oils or honey can be added for specific
medical or cosmetic uses: for instance, eucalyptus for chest and
nasal congestion. A reasonable quantity of essential oils can be
extracted from suitable plants and herbs by packing them
tightly into good quality oil (vegetable or coconut is preferred)
and then baked in a closed container in a very cool oven – (max
100OC) for 2-3 hours. The resulting oil can be used in any cream
or lotion recipe.
11
Soft cream – or ointment
The soft body creams are a mixture of oils, including beeswax,

and water. Oils and water don’t normally mix so in order to join
these otherwise incompatible ingredients together an emulsifier
is used. If a suitable emulsifier can be found then this is a more
economic product to make as it includes a significant quantity of
water. It is essential to get the ingredients all at the same
temperature before combining. Preservatives such as neem oil,
tea tree oil or alcohol will help the product to keep for longer.
Soft cream basic recipe:
½ measure melted beeswax, 2 measures vegetable oil, 2

measures scented or herbal water, 1 teaspoon borax (sodium
borate). Follow directions in the pictures section.
The temperature of the liquids in both containers should be the
same. Prepare everything well.
Remove the container with the melted wax and oils from the
heat.
Very quickly pour the scented water mixture into the wax
mixture stirring continuously without stopping until the
mixture becomes thick.
Put into small pots for sale before it cools.
This cream can be made very much more liquid – and become a
lotion – by the addition of ethyl alcohol and stirring well as the
mixture is beginning to set. The amount of alcohol added is
determined by how liquid a lotion is wanted and how long it is to
be stored - the alcohol may evaporate if the storage is not cool.
Too much alcohol will dry the skin. Alcohol should be diluted to
no more than 50% strength using distilled water.
12
Wood, furniture or floor polish
In polish recipes, beeswax is dissolved in turpentine or white

sprit. Other solvents may not work so care must be taken to get
a suitable product. Polish basic recipe:
1 measure beeswax; 2 ½ measures of turpentine (equivalent

to 50g beeswax 125 ml solvent);
Follow the directions shown in the
picture section.
When combining wax and spirit,
ensure stirring is continuous or
ingredients can separate and spoil.
You may need a helper.
Pour into suitable containers and label attractively.
Propolis
Propolis is collected from plants and is very different from

beeswax. It has excellent antiseptic properties and is valuable
both internally and externally. Collect propolis carefully to avoid
getting it dirty. It should not be crushed into a ball. Store in a
clean, dry container and use either dry or as a tincture. Propolis
tincture recipe:
Take the desired quantity of
propolis and soak in water
for 3-7 days to clean and
soften it.
Soak the propolis in ethyl
alcohol ideally 70% proof,
shaking it every day.
Do NOT use contaminated or
denatured alcohol as this
will be poisonous.
50 gms of absolute alcohol
(100% proof) with 100mls
of water will give a 50%
solution.
Maximum extraction of the active ingredients will take 1-3
weeks.
Filter through a very fine filter such as a coffee filter.
The medicinal part is the filtered liquid.
This should be kept in a dark glass bottle in a cool place.
Since alcohol is a good preservative the tincture will last for a
very long time.
13
Baked honey products and honey

sweets
Chewy honey bars
1 1/3 cups honey

¾ cup sugar
3 tablespoons margarine
4 cups wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ cup chopped nuts (macadamia or peanuts)
½ cup sun dried fruit
¼ teaspoon ginger powder
¼ teaspoon cardamom
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon cloves
Warm honey, sugar, and margarine together until melted. Mix

flour with other dry ingredients. Add to melted mixture and
stir in well. Spread into well greased cake tins and bake in an
oven at 350oF for 25 mins. Cut into squares when cool. The
bars are hard at this point but will become soft after about a
week in storage in an airtight container. They will keep for up
to 6 months in an airtight tin.
14
Fruit honey bread
3 cups wheat flour

3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon salt
1 ¼ cups milk (milk powder+water may do – or try replacing
milk with water)
1 cup honey
1 egg
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup chopped dried fruit (mango, banana or even forest fruit)
½ cup nuts
½ cup sunflower seeds (optional)
½ cup raisins (optional)
Combine dry ingredients in
large bowl. Combine milk,
honey, egg and oil in a separate
large bowl. Blend liquid mixture
with dry ingredients until just
moist. Fold in fruit and nuts
gently. Pour into 9 x 5 x 3 inch
well greased baking tin. Bake
for 60 minutes at 350oF or until
tested to be fully cooked. Slice
into 12 pieces.
Marzipan (proportions by weight)
10 parts sweet almonds (experiment with other nuts such as

macadamia and/or peanuts to make a new product)
1 part bitter almonds – or extract
7 parts of honey
1.5 parts lemon (or orange) juice
Blanch and peel almonds to

remove skins then grind finely.
Add lemon juice and honey and
leave for 24 hours.
No baking is necessary. The marzipan can be rolled out using

icing sugar (finely ground sugar to prevent it sticking to the
rolling pin) then cut into shapes and sold as cookies or sweets.
It can be covered with chocolate or icing sugar or coloured with
food colouring.
15
Greek Halvah
5 parts honey
3 parts olive or sesame oil (other vegetable oils give cruder
flavour)
2 parts chopped or ground nuts (add some sesame seeds also)
10 parts sugar
5 parts flour
3 parts water
ground cloves and ground cinnamon to flavour
Heat oil until very hot.

Gradually stir in flour stirring
slowly until flour turns brown
(30-45 minutes). Meanwhile,
make a syrup of sugar, honey
and water and boil for approx
30 minutes over low heat
until a ‘soft crack’ stage is
reached. Add spices and nuts,
then mix in browned flour.
Stir constantly over low heat until thickened. Turn off heat and
cover pan for 5 minutes. Pour onto oiled baking sheet or tray.
When cool cut into squares or bars and sprinkle with icing
sugar or cinnamon.
Honey roasted nut bars
10 parts sugar
2.5 parts honey
1.25 nuts (whole or broken)
2.5 water
1.25 white vinegar
Dissolve sugar in water and

vinegar, place over medium heat
and stir continuously. When
boiling add honey, mix and reheat to a boil. Cover for 3 minutes
to remove crystals from side of pan. Uncover and without
stirring, bring to a golden brown ‘soft or hard crack’ stage
according to preference (this will affect the hardness of the
bar). Add nuts and cook for a few more minutes without raising
the temperature. Pour onto a cold, oiled tray. Cut before candy
goes hard. Recipe can be modified to give a caramel coated nut
bar (using more nuts) or a solid caramel bar with fewer nuts.
If a bar with extra nuts is wanted, nuts should be stirred into a
small amount of hot syrup before adding to the mixture.
16
Honey sauces and relishes
Honey and chilli dressing
1/3 cup honey

(preferably wine vinegar)
1 teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon red pepper
Combine all ingredients

together.
Honey and lemon dressing
½ cup honey
¼ cup lemon juice
¼ cup vinegar
2 cloves chopped garlic
1 tablespoon oregano
Salt and pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients together.
Honey and orange sauce
2/3 cup orange juice

½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 tablespoon margarine
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/3 cup honey
Combined ingredients and cook

until corn starch thickens the
sauce.
17
Molly’s honey sauce
Mix equal quantities

of honey, tomato
sauce and vinegar.
Add as much garlic
as liked to give good
flavour plus salt and
pepper to taste.
Honey and fresh fruit chutney
1 cup chopped fruit

(e.g. mango, pineapple)
¼ cup finely chopped onion
½ cup finely chopped vegetables
(carrot or cabbage)
5 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons mixed mustard
powder
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons grated ginger root
Salt and red pepper to taste
Combine ingredients and cook gently together until well

blended.
Notes
1 teaspoon = 5 ml
1 tablespoon = 30 mls
¼ cup = 60 ml
½ cup = 125 ml
1 cup = 250 ml
2 cups = 1 pint = 500 ml
4 cups = 1 quart = 1 litre
1 ounce = 30g
8 ounces = 225g
18
Simple medicinal uses of honey

Since ancient times honey has been widely used as a healing
medicine (as well as in conjunction with traditional herbs,
where the sweetness of the honey can help to make them more
palatable). Honey stimulates the immune system and is an
excellent healer. It removes dirt and dead skin from wounds,
reduces inflammation and bacterial growth, stimulates healing
and prevent dressings sticking to the wound. Its absorbs pus
and other liquids oozing from an open wound.
Minor burns and wounds: Clean the wound then cover with
plenty of honey and a clean dressing. Change daily.
Coughs and sore throats: Honey is soothing for inflamed

tissues. Honey and lemon mixture is a delicious way to sooth a
sore throat and aid recovery from a cold. In a cup or mug mix
together 1 large spoonful of honey with the juice of ½ small
lemon. Fill the mug to the top with hot water. Drink all of once it
is cool enough. Especially good before sleeping.
For sore eyes, conjunctivitis and other eye infections: 2 drops of

best quality liquid honey dropped carefully into the affected eye.
Repeat twice daily until healed. If problem persists seek
medical advice.
Gastro-enteritis and rehydration: Use honey at a concentration

of 5% (vol/vol) to reduce the duration of bacterial diarrhoea in
children.
Sleeplessness: Honey is a mild sedative. Take a large spoonful

of honey in a mug of milk before bedtime.
High energy food source: Honey is quickly absorbed into the

bloodstream so is excellent for fatigue or as a reviver after
exercise. For elderly people or invalids with little appetite and
for children it gives a delicious source of calories and energy. It
is excellent combined with maize meal and peanut powder to
make a nutritious porridge.
Honey and oatmeal face pack: Mix liquid honey with oatmeal –
preferred as this also has helpful skin healing properties - (or
maize meal) until it is spreadable. Apply as a face pack. Leave
for half and hour while relaxing. Wash off. Good skin cleanser
and helps to reduce acne.
Honey should not be used by diabetics unless under

medical supervision. Honey, propolis or apitherapy should
NEVER be used to replace proper medical advice.
19
Finding further information sources

There is plenty of information available on the Internet but it is
not all of high quality. Much of the information can be
conflicting and confusing and may not be based on research
evidence, practical beekeeping experience in the tropics or take
the development objectives of beekeeping into account.
While there may be many more, the following sources are

recommended for quality information:
▫ Krell R; (2001), Value-added Products from Beekeeping, FAO

Agricultural Services Bulletin, FAO Rome (available freely
from FAO corporate document repository
http://www.fao.org/docrep/w0076e/w0076e00.htm )
▫ Bees for Development www.beesfordevelopment.org.uk
▫ UK National Bee Unit Advisory Leaflets; FERA
https://secure.fera.defra.gov.uk/beebase/public/Advisory/a
dvisory.cfm
▫ Practical Action - http://practicalaction.org/practicalanswers
▫ Control of Varroa. A guide for New Zealand Beekeepers. MAF
New Zealand.
▫ http://homepage.ntlworld.com/gandboss/BeeginnersFAQ/P
roblems/control-of-varroa-guide.pdf
▫ Bees Abroad – [email protected]
▫ Locally based beekeepers or beekeeping organisations and
traditional beekeepers
▫ Search for publications on CGIAR and FAO websites.
Happy and profitable beekeeping
Pam Gregory 2010

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English

Second edition March 2011

Sharing experiences helps to make things work better.

Author Pam Gregory

It is well accepted that beekeeping can offer people a way of

However, beekeeping is not always easy. In 2008 we produced a

Sharing ideas and experiences is always useful. This manual is

This Advanced Beekeeping Manual is designed primarily for use by

RESOURCES NO Can trees

NEW PRODUCERS NO DO NOT

YES Are existing beekeepers willing to

A swarm of bees is just entering this hive in Garissa, Kenya.

Getting swarms to colonise hives naturally is a key problem in

Colonising hives is one of the biggest problems that face African

Lack of colonised hives means that the beekeeper is not

The following ideas can all be used to improve colonisation.

1. Making sure there are wild bees available as parent colonies

2. Setting out hives at the right time of year

3. Baiting the hives

4. Maintaining clean hives prior to colonisation

5. Placing swarm catcher boxes in migration routes

9. Transferring a wild or a traditionally managed colony

1. MAKING SURE THERE ARE WILD BEES AVAILABLE AS

REMEMBER - TREES MEAN BEES

This rain forest in Benin is an excellent for bees.

If there is poor colonisation there may not be enough trees to

This degraded landscape is

Plant indigenous and multipurpose trees or flowering crops to help the

2. SETTING OUT HIVES AT THE RIGHT TIME OF YEAR

3. BAITING THE HIVES

A top bar with a fresh wax starter strip is excellent for

Bees can be attracted to

Propolis is also attractive to bees and can be rubbed around the

This beekeeper from

4. MAINTAINING CLEAN HIVES

ATTEND TO THE DETAILS

If a hive remains uncolonised after the swarming season, clean

5. PLACING SWARM CATCHING BOXES IN MIGRATION

Using swam catcher boxes especially in migration routes or

It is important that the new hive is put in its intended final

Whenever bees need relocating they must always be moved

Collecting a hanging swarm can also help to colonise empty

Before a colony swarms it will build up into a very strong colony

Drone brood removal can be used

Once the bees have

When they are ready

This is a swarm flying

After a while the

Swarms should be collected in the evening. The swarm is

The bees will gradually

Prepare a new hive

Take the box to the

The bees will probably

Bees also like comb containing brood very much. Brood

Colonisation by attracting natural swarms into the hive is very

Dividing colonies can help to improve colonisation rates without

Only big, strong, healthy hives with plenty of brood should be

When dividing a colony it is important that the combs are

Two or three people are needed to carry out the procedure.

Here the team is