© Lonely Planet Publications

673

Senegal
Couched between the arid desert lands of the north and lush tropical forests in the south,
Senegal boasts a stunning array of sights, sounds and flavours. The capital Dakar alone
hands you the country in a capsule. Perched on the tip of a beach-lined peninsula, this
dizzying city is composed elegance and street hustler rolled in one. Its busy streets, vibrant
markets and glittering nightlife will easily draw you into their relentless rhythm, but the
escape route is always open – be it to the meditative calm of the historical Île de Gorée or
the golden sands of Yoff and N’Gor. And if Dakar’s sensory overload really gets too much,
the calm sway of the architectural beauty Saint-Louis, the first French settlement in West
Africa, boasts a vibrant urban culture without the inner-city bustle.

Most visitors head to Senegal for its beaches, and for good reason. North and south of
Dakar, wide strips of white sand invite swimming and sunbathing, whether in the built-up
resort zones, where a lazy day at the beach can be followed by a cocktail trail at night, or
in one of the coast’s charming fishing villages, whose beaches are dotted with hundreds
of colourful wooden pirogues. At the wide deltas of the Casamance and Saloum Rivers, the
straight coastline is broken up into a maze of thick mangroves, tiny creeks, wide lagoons
and shimmering plains. A pirogue trip through these striking zones reveals hundreds of bird
species, from the gleaming wings of tiny kingfishers to the proud poise of pink flamingos.
Whether you want to mingle with the trendsetters of urban Africa, or be alone with your
thoughts and the sounds of nature – Senegal is the place to be.

FAST FACTS

Area 196,192 sq km

Capital Dakar

Country code %221

Famous for Its hospitality; vibrant music
scene; Dakar’s urban culture

Languages Wolof, Fula, Diola, Serer and French

Money West African CFA franc;
US$1 = CFA544.89; €1 = CFA655.96

Population 11.1 million
SENEGAL

Visa Not needed for citizens of the EU,

Canada, Norway, South Africa, Japan, Israel,
USA and several other (mainly African) coun-
tries. For all others, one- to three-month visas
cost about US$15 to US$20
 674 S E N E G A L • • H i g h l i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com

HIGHLIGHTS or guesthouses). From Oussouye, pass via

Casamance (p731) Weave your way via M’Lomp (p731) and visit its traditional cases
tiny villages to Senegal’s best beaches in étages (two-storey mud-brick houses),
Cap Skiring. then carry on towards Elinkine (p732) and

Saint-Louis (p712) Follow in the footsteps take a pirogue to Île de Karabane (p732).
of history in West Africa’s first French Take a couple of pirogue excursions, then
settlement. ask your driver to steer his wooden boat

Dakar (p683) Spend sleepless nights tour- towards Cap Skiring (p732), where you can
ing the capital’s vibrant nightclub, bar spend a few days chilling at Senegal’s best
and concert scene. beaches. Take a couple of days to visit Bou-

Siné-Saloum (p705) Wind through the cotte (p734) and Diembéring (p734). Return
mangroves of the Siné-Saloum Delta in to Cap Skiring to take the plane to Dakar,
a pirogue. or the long road back to the capital.

Kedougou (p723) Hike across the hills of
Six Weeks In six weeks, you can visit pretty
the remote Bassari country. much the entire country. Continue from
the Casamance towards Tambacounda
ITINERARIES (p720) and the Parc National du Niokolo-

One Week Spend a couple of days tasting Koba (p721). Keep going south towards
the nightlife, arts and restaurant scene of Kedougou (p723) and the Bassari Country
Dakar (p683). From here, take day trips to (p723). In this part of the country you
the peaceful Île de Gorée (p696) and Île de can go for long hikes in the mountains,
la Madeleine (p697). Head north to visit take in the strong traditional culture of
the historical town of Saint-Louis (p712). Bassari and Bédik villages and the stun-
And travel further north to visit the Parc ning sights of plateaus, waterfalls and
National des Oiseaux du Djoudj (p717) and forests. From here, it’s a long way back
Parc National de la Langue de Barbarie (p717). to Dakar. Stop at Kaolack (p711), Diourbel
On your way back to Dakar, take in the (p710), the holy town of Touba (p710)
Desert de Lompoul (p712). before re-entering the capital. Alterna-

Two Weeks Start as above, then head from tively, travel from Tambacounda towards
Dakar south to the Petite Côte. Stop at the Bakel (p719), then follow the river route
chilled-out fishing villages of Toubab Dia- via Matam (p719), Podor (p719) and the
lao (p701) and Popenguine (p702) before amazing Île à Morphil (p719) towards
following the shoreline further south to Saint-Louis, then back to Dakar.
Mbour (p704) and the unique seashell town
Joal-Fadiout (p705), if you like your beach CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
life local, or Saly (p703), if you’re more Senegal’s main tourist season is from No-
at home in a holiday resort zone. From vember to February, during the dry season,
Mbour, trace the coastal road beyond to and the ‘coolest’ months. Dakar average
Palmarin (p705), the stunning entry port daytime maximums are around 24°C
to the region of the Siné-Saloum Delta, (75°F) from January to March. It’s also
then head via Ndangane (p706) and Mar the best time to spot wildlife (particularly
Lodj (p706) for Toubakouta (p707), one of migratory birds). If you are the partying
the prettiest spots in the Delta. kind, the urban centre of Dakar is a great

One Month Follow the two-week itinerary place to spend Christmas and New Year.
as described, then cross The Gambia from Several of Senegal’s famous dance and
Toubakouta to reach the Casamance. music festivals take place between March
Head straight for the peaceful villages of and June, when temperatures are higher,
Kafountine (p735) and Abéné (p736), then though the climate is still dry. See Climate
take the route towards Ziguinchor, with Charts, p813.
SENEGAL

side trips to Affiniam (p734) and Koulaban The wet months from late June to late
(p734). Spend a couple of days in Zig- September see far fewer visitors, as some
uinchor (p727), the region’s relaxed capital. national parks become inaccessible or even
Head west towards Oussouye (p731), with a close, malaria is a major problem and the
detour via Enampor (p731), with its stun- heat and humidity presses down on the
ning campement villageois (village ‘camps’ country. But it’s also the time everything
www.lonelyplanet.com S E N E G A L S E N E G A L • • H i s t o r y 675

they landed at Cap Vert, near present-day

HOW MUCH? Dakar, and later settled on Île de Gorée – a

Soft drink CFA300 vital base for ships trading along the coast.
By the 16th century other European

Newspaper CFA200
powers had become increasingly active in

Sandwich CFA1000 West Africa. For the next two centuries the

French bread CFA150 English and Dutch fought with the French

One hour Internet access CFA300
over the islands of Gorée and Saint-Louis,
and with it for control of the lucrative trade in
LONELY PLANET INDEX gold, ivory and, most importantly, slaves. In
1659 the French developed a trading station

Litre of petrol/gas CFA500 in Saint-Louis at the mouth of the Senegal

Litre of bottled water CFA400-600 River, and in 1677 finally secured Gorée.
During the 18th century, Saint-Louis grew

Bottle of Flag beer CFA500-1000
in size and importance, but after the slave

Souvenir T-shirt CFA1500-5000 trade was banned in 1815, the French were

Shwarma CFA750 forced to look for new sources of wealth.
Louis Faidherbe was appointed governor in
1845, and forced the local people near the
is green and beautiful, and many hotels re- Senegal River to grow groundnuts as a cash
duce their prices by up to 50%. crop. Over the next few decades, French
Since you’re travelling to a predomin- forces moved inland, and Senegal became the
antly Muslim region, it’s worth checking gateway to the large territory of Afrique Oc-
the lunar calendar, particularly for the dates cidentale Française (French West Africa).
of the fasting month Ramadan. Though it’s Meanwhile, El Hajj Omar Tall, a mara-
perfectly possible to visit during Ramadan, bout (Muslim holy man) who hailed from
and the month’s special ambience is worth the Fouta Toro region in northern Senegal,
experiencing, many restaurants close and had established a vast empire with Segou
the entertainment scene is in hibernation. (in today’s Mali) as its centre. His soldiers
See p818 for more information on Islamic spread west into Senegal, where they clashed
holidays. with French forces. A chain of forts along
the Senegal River (including Bakel, Matam
HISTORY and Podor) and Sudanese-style ‘Omarian’
Evidence of organised societies from early mosques still bear witness to the confronta-
in the first millennium AD has been dis- tion of cultures and interests of that era. Faid-
covered in parts of Senegal (for instance herbe also established a settlement opposite
the ancient burial shell mound diorom Île de Gorée, which later became Dakar.
bumag near Toubakouta), and the area was El Hajj Omar Tall’s forces were defeated
part of the great empires of Ghana (which by the French in 1864, but his mission-
flourished between the 8th and 11th cen- ary zeal inspired followers to continue
turies), Mali (13th to 15th centuries) and the ‘Marabout Wars’, as they were called,
Songhaï (16th century). Smaller empires or for another three decades. Soldiers of the
kingdoms were also established during that Wolof king Lat Dior, for instance, repeat-
period. Along the Senegal River, the Tuk- edly hindered French attempts to build a
ulor built the Tekrur empire in the 9th and railway between Dakar and Saint-Louis.
10th centuries; and as Mali’s power began Another thorn in the French side was a
to wane, the Wolof people united several marabout called Cheikh Amadou Bamba
areas into the Jolof empire in the central (p710), whose 1857 Islamic brotherhood of
region of Senegal. the Mourides became a hugely popular focal
SENEGAL

point of anticolonial sentiment.

European Arrival
In 1443, Portuguese explorers reached the The Colonial Period
mouth of the Senegal River – a moment that At the Berlin Conference of 1884–85, fol-
marked medieval Europe’s first direct con- lowing the ‘Scramble for Africa’ (p37), the
tact with West Africa. The following year continent was divided between powerful
 Senegal
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SENEGAL 0
0
100 km
60 miles

To Nouakchott

ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὄὈὄὈὈ Ὀ
(40km)

ATLANTIC
OCEAN MAURITANIA Aleg

Senegal R
Podor ive
Parc National r
des Oiseaux Rosso-Mauritania Bogué Kifa

ὈὈὈ
Ὀ
ὈὈὈ
du Djoudj Dagana
Rosso- Tredji
Senegal Richard Toll Île à
Maka N2 Morphil Saldé
Diama Lac de
Makhana Guiers Réserve Mbout
Saint-Louis Sylvo-Pastorale Kankossa
Gandiol des Six Forages N2
Mouit
Parc National
de la Langue Lodge de
Lompoul Réserve de Ouro Matam
de Barbarie Faune du Sogui
Desert de Louga
Ferlo-Nord
Grande Côte Lompoul Linguère

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ Ὀ
ὈὈ
Ὀ
Kébémer
N2
Kelle N3 N3 Se
ne
Mboro ga
Lac N2 l
Rose Kayar
Réserve de Bakel Ri
Yoff Thiès Touba Faune du ve
r
Mbaké Ferlo-Sud
Rufisque N3 Réserve
Diourbel
DAKAR Île de Gorée S-P du Kayes

ὅὅ
Tiadiaye Siné-Saloum
Mbour N2 Gossas Kidira Diboli
Petite Côte er
m Riv

ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈ
Ὀ
Foundiougne
Joal-Fadiout Salou

ὅὅ
Kaolack
Ndangane N1 Koumpentoum N1
Tr

Passi Kaffrine
an

Koussanar Sadiola
s-

Sokone
Ga

Aire Marine Protégée Toubakouta

m

de Bamboung Georgetown Maka MALI

bi

Missirah Tambacounda
aH

Parc National Karang (Jangjang-bureh)

Gam Dialafar
wy

du Delta BANJUL Soma b

ia
Barra ver Basse Santa Su River
du Saloum Gambia Ri Pata
THE Brikama Dar Salam Saïnsoutou
Sabi
GAMBIA Séléti Niokolo-Koba

ὅὅ
Kartong N4 Vélingara Parc National
Diouloulou du Niokolo-Koba N7
Abéné Kolda
Kafountine
Bignona River N6 Mt Assirik
Saraya
(311m)
Île de Cas Sédhiou Salikénié
am an Salémata Chez Leontine
Karabane ce Tanaf Iwol
Ethiolo Kedougou
Ziguinchor Ibel Niagalankome
Farim Ségou
Koundara Chez Dindéfelo
er

Cap
São Balingo
Riv

Skiring Dande Bandafassi

Domingos
ba Gabú
Parc National de Gé Bafatà
Mali-ville
Basse-Casamance
GUINEA-
BISSAU BISSAU GUINEA

Labé

European states. While Britain, Germany studied in France. One of them was Léopold
and Portugal got most of East and Southern Sédar Senghor. He became the first African
Africa, the greater part of West Africa was secondary-school teacher in France, began
allocated to France. At the end of the 19th writing poetry and founded Présence Afri-
century, French West Africa stretched from caine, a magazine promoting the values of
the Atlantic to present-day Niger. In 1887, African culture.
Africans living in the four main French set- Senghor was an astute politician, and
tlements in Senegal (Dakar, Gorée, Saint- began building a personal power base that
Louis and Rufisque) were granted limited resulted in his election as Senegal’s repre-
French citizenship. Saint-Louis was the sentative to the French national assembly.
capital of the region until administration Meanwhile, the political influence of the
SENEGAL

was shifted to Dakar in 1902. marabouts had steadily increased, and

In the early 20th century, things began through the 1950s Senghor made several
to change. In 1914, Senegal elected its first secret deals with leading religious figures,
black African delegate, Blaise Diagne, to allowing them limited autonomy and con-
the French national assembly in Paris. After trol of the groundnut economy in return for
WWI, an increasing number of Senegalese their public support.
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Independence Wade’s Sopi Campaign

In the late 1950s, Senghor gained support Though the 1998 parliamentary elections
from French Sudan (present-day Mali), were again won by Diouf, the growing power
Upper Volta (present-day Burkina Faso) of the opposition became undeniable.
and Dahomey (present-day Benin) to form By the time voting began for the next
a single union, the Mali Federation. But his election in 2000, Wade’s sopi campaign
plan failed when Upper Volta and Dahomey (Wolof for ‘change’) had captured the im-
withdrew under pressure from France and agination of the nation. Wade was elected
Côte d’Ivoire. On 20 June 1960, Senegal and and power was transferred peacefully. The
Mali became independent while remaining people of Senegal were rightly proud of this
in the French union, and Senghor became affirmation of the strength of their democ-
the first president. But two months later, the racy, and in January 2001 90% voted for the
Senegal–Mali union broke up, and French new constitution allowing the formation of
West Africa was divided into nine republics. opposition parties and giving enhanced
Senghor was a popular president, but status to the prime minister. Real change,
the early years of independence did not al- however, was disappointingly slow.
ways run smoothly. In 1968, student riots
at the University of Dakar were answered Senegal Today
with military pressure, though conflicts In 2002, the country was shaken by a huge
were only resolved when the students were tragedy when the MS Joola, the ferry con-
promised reforms. The 1970s were less tur- necting Dakar and the Casamance capital,
bulent and Senghor held on to his position. Ziguinchor, capsized due to dangerous over-
In 1980, after 20 years as president, Senghor loading, leaving almost 2000 people dead. It
did what no other African head of state is also thought that Wade’s subsequent dis-
had done before – he stepped down vol- missal of his entire government is related to
untarily. His hand-picked successor Abdou their handling of the catastrophe.
Diouf took over. Also in the Casamance, separatist rebellion
One of Diouf’s first major acts as presi- smouldered, despite a 2001 peace deal. An-
dent was to help the Gambian head of state other accord signed between the MFDC and
Dawda Jawara regain power after he had Wade’s government in 2004 showed some
been ousted in a coup, by sending in Sene- results, and the situation in southern Senegal
galese military. Cooperation between the finally began to calm down, give and take oc-
two countries was formalised through the casional unrest that goes on to this day.
establishment of the Senegambia Confed- However, the president’s controversial
eration later that year. decision to arrest former prime minister
In 1983 and 1988, Diouf’s Parti Socialiste Idrissa Seck on accusations of undermining
(PS) defeated a loose opposition, led by Ab- state security and embezzling funds while
doulaye Wade, in elections widely thought working as mayor of the commune Thiès
to be rigged. During the latter election, sparked clashes between Seck’s supporters
Wade was arrested and charged with intent and police and sent the country into a flurry
to subvert the government. He received a of political debate. In February 2006, Seck
one-year suspended sentence and left for was released and all charges are dropped,
France. By this time, the Senegambia Con- probably in order to reunite their joint party
federation was in trouble, and in 1989 it PDS in good time before the next presiden-
was completely dissolved. But while Diouf tial and parliamentary elections in 2007.
was contending with this break-up and calls
for political reform, he had two other major THE CULTURE
problems to deal with: a dispute with Mauri- The National Psyche
tania and a separatist movement in the Senegal takes great pride in being the ‘Land
SENEGAL

southern region of Casamance (see p725). of Teranga’ – meaning ‘hospitality’. The

Wade returned from exile and stood national football team is called ‘Lions of
again in the presidential election of 1993. Teranga’, and plenty of hotels and restau-
Diouf won, but both Wade and his Parti rants have adopted the name. Much of this
Démocratique Sénégalais (PDS) had claimed is promotional hype, but as these things go,
a significant percentage of the vote. it’s indeed rooted in that proverbial kernel
 678 S E N E G A L • • T h e C u l t u re www.lonelyplanet.com

of truth; people tend to be open and wel- vital role. Unmarried children, particularly
coming towards visitors. women, stay at their parents’ home until
In the busy tourist areas, it can be hard to they are wed, which is when men establish
tell the difference between true hospitality their own household, and women join their
and a ‘con job’, devised to trick you into husband. Marrying is a pricey business, and
some unplanned spending. The further you many men don’t have the necessary means at
get away from the resort zones, the more their disposal to take this step until they are
‘real’ society gets, and you can relax your in their mid-20s. It’s therefore not unusual
shoulders and practise your rudimentary (nor discreditable) for men of this age to still
Wolof or French – people will be keen to occupy a room in their parents’ house. In the
teach you their language. case of a divorce, the woman usually rejoins
In Senegal, conversation is the key to local her family, bringing her children with her.
culture, and the key to conversation is a great Single women, or single-mother households
sense of humour and a quick-witted tongue. (by choice), or even houseshares of young
The Senegalese love talking, teasing and test- female students that are common in the
ing you out, and the better you slide into Western world are virtually unheard of.
the conversational game, the easier you’ll get As to be expected, traditional family rela-
around. Someone mocks your habits? Don’t tions tend to remain more deeply preserved
tense up, retaliate with a clever remark, and in rural regions than in the cities. There are
you’re likely to be on your way to an en- exceptions, however, as many young men
tertaining evening. People don’t mean harm leave their villages to seek work in the cities
laughing at you, and the ability to laugh at or abroad, some rural communities show
yourself is just as important an item in your a worrying absence of men, and women
luggage as your malaria pills and T-shirts. raising a large number of offspring on their
own are becoming increasingly common.
Daily Life A second factor that determines daily life
The majority of Senegalese households are is religious faith. In most Senegalese homes,
polygamous, the Qur’an allowing men to you’ll notice the portraits of marabouts
take up to four wives (see below). Families are looking down earnestly from the walls.
large and, as elsewhere in Africa, the extended Men often join Senegal’s influential Islamic
family with its clearly defined rules of inter- brotherhoods for religious learning, while
relations, responsibilities and respect, plays a women tend to be the ones who mainly

POLYGAMOUS MARRIAGES
When singer Youssou N’Dour (opposite) married a second wife in 2006, he set Senegal’s paparazzi
machine and boulevard press in motion, in a way only he can. In the following months, the
debate around polygamy took up plenty of column space in Senegal’s glossies. Young women
were dismayed at the iconic singer’s move, having seen in his monogamous status an influential
example worth following by their male peers. The defenders of polygamy – you guessed it, mainly
men – rejoiced, welcoming Youssou back into the more traditional fold.
The Holy Qur’an, which guides the lives of the vast Muslim majority of Senegal, allows men to
take up to four wives, normally on the condition that they can equally provide for and love all
of them. And that’s really the crux of the issue – can one man equally love four women? Most
women would say no, pointing an accusing finger at the many men who bring a pretty young
wife into the family home once they’ve ‘tired’ of their first, aging, spouse.
Western women generally find it inconceivable to share their husband with another wife, and
though Africa’s women are generally resigned to this reality, few welcome it with joy, secretly
praying that their partner will proudly spell the word ‘monogamy’ when asked about his choice
SENEGAL

at the civil wedding.

And a word of caution to the men who might dream of such rights – managing a polygamous
household can be hard work. Wives tend to be jealous of one another, and resentment is often spread
quite purposefully from the mothers to their children. All of this means a family home where tensions
brew easily, and it’s the head of the house that is expected to calm escalating situations.
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consult them for advice in mystic matters, country’s best-known authors. The most
such as protection for their children and influential writer is probably Léopold Seng-
ways of keeping a husband faithful. hor, the country’s first president. Studying
in France during the 1930s, he coined the
Population term ‘negritude’, which emphasised black-
Senegal’s population is young – around 42% African ideas and culture, countering the
people are under 14 years old. The greatest colonial policy of ‘assimilation’. Naturally,
density is around the urban areas of Dakar – these beliefs influenced Senghor’s own po-
the rapidly growing, impoverished suburb of litical thought.
Pikine is a vivid example of the flight towards Great female authors include Aminata
the cities and the problems this entails. How- Sow-Fall and Mariama Ba, whose short novel
ever, the government is taking some decided So Long a Letter is one of the most sensitive,
measures to combat the country’s strong cen- intimate and beautiful contemplations of
tralisation, even contemplating moving the female lives in a polygamous society. Fatou
capital to a completely new location. Diome is a young author whose 2004 debut
The main ethnic group of the country novel, Le Ventre de l’Atlantique, became an
is the Wolof. They account for 43% of the unexpected bestseller in France; it has since
population, and their language and culture been translated into German. Perhaps her
is dominant. Smaller groups are the Fula success will persuade publishing houses to
(around 24%), Tukulor, a sub-branch of the work on an English translation, too.
Fula, who make up 10%, Serer (14%) and The philosophical contemplation of reli-
Diola (5%). Geographical distribution and gion and colonisation An Ambiguous Adven-
cultural differences of these groups all lie ture by Cheikh Hamidou Kane has almost
with Senegal’s precolonial history of empires. achieved the status of a Senegalese classic.
With the exception of the Diola, these ethnic
groups are structured in a hierarchical fash- Cinema
ion where the freeborn (rulers and traders) Senegal is one of the most productive na-
are at the top, followed by professional oc- tions in African cinema. The doyen of
cupational groups, including griots (trad- Senegalese cinema is Ousmane Sembène.
itional musicians and oral historians) and From his first 1962 production Borom Sar-
blacksmiths, and formerly the slaves. These ret, a moving black-and-white tale about
structures still determine much of social life, an inner-city horse-cart driver, through to
though other aspects, such as economic suc- the 2006 release Moolaade, which treats the
cess and education are also important. sensitive subject of female circumcision, he
has used cinema to shed a critical eye onto
RELIGION Senegalese society, history and culture.
About 90% of the population is Muslim. Other famous directors include the il-
What’s distinctive about Islam in Senegal, is lustrious Djibril Diop Mambety and the
the importance of Sufi brotherhoods, primar- younger Joseph Kamaka Gaye whose ac-
ily that of the Mourides. Christian faith is claimed work Karmen Geï sets the classic
most widespread among the Diola in Casa- story of Carmen in a Senegalese context.
mance, and to a lesser extent the Serer in the Dakar’s annual Festival International du
Siné-Saloum region and the Bassari around Film de Quartier (see p740) is the place to
Kedougou. Traditional religious forms spot future big names.
(sometimes called animism) are most com-
monly practised in the Christian areas. Ele- Music
ments of animism have also found their way Senegal is one of Africa’s most musical na-
into the practice of Islam and Christianity. tions, and names such as Youssou N’Dour,
Baaba Maal and Ismael Lô are famous
SENEGAL

ARTS worldwide. The beat that moves the na-

Literature tion is mbalax. Created from a mixture of
Senegal is has a prolific literary output, but Cuban beats and traditional, fiery sabar
most works are only published in French. drumming in the late 1970s, mbalax was
Filmmaker Ousmane Sembène started made famous by Youssou N’Dour, still
out as a writer, and is still among the the unrivalled leader of the scene. Since
 680 S E N E G A L • • A r t s www.lonelyplanet.com

MARABOUTS AND BROTHERHOODS

Take a tour around Dakar, and you are bound to notice the images of two veiled men, one dressed in
white and the other in black, painted on numerous walls, cars and shop signs. They are the portraits
of Cheikh Amadou Bamba, the 19th-century founder of the Mouride brotherhood, and Cheikh Ibra
Fall, his illustrious follower and spiritual leader of the Baye Fall, a branch of Mouridism. Télécentres
(telephone centres) and tailor shops are named after them, their names are written broadly across
cars rapides (minibuses) and a vast number of pop songs, from mbalax (a mixture of Cuban beats
and traditional, fiery sabar drumming) to hip-hop, praise the two revered personalities.
While orthodox Islam holds that every believer is directly in touch with Allah, Muslim faith in
Senegal is more commonly channelled via saintly intermediaries who are ascribed divine powers
and provide a link between God and the common populace. The concept of the marabout-led
brotherhood was imported to Senegal from Morocco, where a spiritual leader is known as a
cheikh, or khalif, terms that are also used in Senegal. The earliest brotherhood established south
of the Sahara was the 16th-century Qadiriya. Today, most Qadiriya followers are Mandinkas, both
in southern Senegal and in The Gambia.
The Moroccan-based Tijaniya brotherhood was introduced to Senegal by El Hajj Omar Tall in
the mid-19th century, and remains powerful today, with large and important mosques in the
towns of Tivaouane and Kaolack.
With over two million followers, the Mouridiya established by Cheikh Amadou Bamba is by
far the most important brotherhood (see p710), and its power has consistently grown since the
mid-19th century. The rise of Mouridism is closely connected to colonial expansion and popular
resistance to the measures imposed by the French. Colonial administration weakened, or com-
pletely disabled traditional structures of governance, rendering the chiefs powerless, and leaving
their subjects without respect-worthy leaders. The evolving structures of the brotherhoods were
remarkably close to the societal organisation that had been lost, which made them extremely at-
tractive to a population that sought to preserve its autonomy and oppose the colonial power.
For many years, Cheikh Amadou Bamba was a humble marabout, not more, perhaps even less,
renowned than any other religious leaders of his time. Part of his rise to fame is due to the total
adherence of his most famous talibe (student), Cheikh Ibra Fall. He was wholly devoted to the
marabout, and demonstrated his commitment less through study than through hard, physical
labour. ‘Lamp’ Fall, as he is often called, renounced Quranic study, and refused the Ramadan fast,
stating that in order to serve God, he required all his time and bodily force to work hard. He soon
gathered his own group of followers, the Baye Fall. Baye Fall adepts are traditionally recognis-
able by their long dreadlocks, heavy leather amulets containing pictures of their marabout, and
patchwork clothing (not all follow the dress code), and to this day, the Baye Fall tend to be the
hardest workers in the Touba region, building mosques and preparing fields for cultivation.
As the Mourides and Baye Fall gained immense popularity, the French began to fear their
impact, and forced Cheikh Amadou Bamba into exile. His return in 1907 is still celebrated by
the annual Magal pilgrimage (p710) to Touba.
Today, the Mourides, together with the ensemble of other brotherhoods, hold an almost
worrying sway over politics and economics. About a quarter of the population hang on to every
word of the khalif of the Mourides – a word that can thus easily decide the outcome of an
election. The Mouride leaders also largely control the profitable groundnut trade, and see their
immense wealth and subsequent economic impact further swell thanks to the donations they
receive from their followers.

its inception, mbalax has evolved, always gas of a standard mbalax outfit for a drum
SENEGAL

adapting to changing fashions without ever kit in 1974 – a move that has been copied
losing its essence. The always impeccably ever since. Youssou N’Dour’s sister-in-law
suited-and-tied Thione Seck has married Viviane N’Dour is one of Senegal’s major
the beat with Indian-style vocals. Senegal’s style icons, mixing sexy mbalax beats with
‘street kid’ Omar Pene and his band Super breathy, R&B–inspired vocals. And then
Diamono were the first to replace the con- there’s a whole new generation that causes
www.lonelyplanet.com S E N E G A L S E N E G A L • • E n v i r o n m e n t 681

havoc on the region’s dance floors, includ- hole in the roof to collect rainwater) that are
ing such excellent performers as Abdou found in the Casamance.
Guité Seck, Ablaye Mbaye, Aliou Mbaye The most famous contemporary archi-
N’Der and Titi. tect is Pierre Goudiaby, who designed both
In the 1960s, Cuban music was the most Arch 22 (p300) and Banjul airport in The
prominent influence, and Senegal still has a Gambia.
vibrant salsa scene. The most famous salsa
orchestra is Orchestra Baobab, who re- Painting & Sculpture
formed in 2001 and now tour regularly, lur- Senegal has a vibrant contemporary arts
ing audiences onto dance floors with their scene. Well-known painters include Sou-
inimitable grandfather charm. The father of leymane Keita and Kambel Dieng; leading
Senegalese music, however, is an artist that’s sculptors are the world-famous Ousmane
lesser known today – Ibra Kasse, leader of Sow and the emerging Gabriel Kemzo, who
the defunct Star Band de Dakar. In the specialises in metal sculptures.
line-up were Pape Seck and the illustrious Senegal is particularly renowned for the
Gambian-born singer Labah Sosseh. When unique art of sous-verre (reverse-glass paint-
the Star Band divided into glittering pieces, ing). Outstanding artisans include Moussa
Etoile de Dakar emerged, which proved the Sakho (who has a workshop at the l’Institut
rocket for Senegalese star Youssou N’Dour. Français in Dakar), Babacar Lô, Andy Dolly,
Influencing popular music are the griots Séa Diallo, Mbida and Gora Mbengue.
(gewel in Wolof), West Africa’s traditional And don’t forget to keep your eyes open
praise singers, genealogists and oral histor- for the everyday art that gives Dakar its
ians (Youssou N’Dour is a griot on his moth- particular character. The city’s cars rapides
er’s family lineage). The griots’ soaring voice and taxis are draped in decorative writings
rings from modern recordings as well as tra- and images. Reproductions of the portraits
ditional ceremonies, and their ancient reper- of Cheikh Amadou Bamba and Cheikh Ibra
toire forms the basis of many pop tunes. Fall adorn walls around town, and painted
Senegal has an exciting hip-hop scene, profiles outside hairdressers’ salons add
with leading names including: Positive spots of colour to ragged barbershops.
Black Soul (who emerged in the mid-1980s),
Daara J, Pee Froiss, Carlou D, Chronik 2H ENVIRONMENT
and Sen Kumpe. On a quieter side, Afro- The Land
folk is represented by artists such as Xalam, Senegal is Africa’s westernmost country;
the Frères Guisse and Diogal Sakho. the continent’s western tip, Le Point des
And then there are of course the many Almadies, lies just north of Dakar. It com-
artists that don’t fit in any of the categories. prises an area of just under 200,000 sq km,
Famous are Cheikh Lô, whose music is a which compares in size to England and
moving mix of mbalax and Latin music; Scotland combined.
Turé Kunda, who stormed the world with Senegal is largely flat, with a natural vegeta-
their smooth Afro-pop in the ’80s; and tion of dry savanna woodland. The country’s
Baaba Maal, the voice of the Tukulor. western border, some 600km in length, is
marked by the shores of the Atlantic Ocean.
Architecture Senegal has four major rivers, which flow
Prominent examples of historical architec- east to west from the Fouta Jallon highlands
ture are the French colonial houses of Saint- in Guinea to the Atlantic Ocean. The Senegal
Louis, Île de Gorée and Rufisque, as well as River is the northernmost. The Gambia River
the ancient Faidherbian forts of Podor and flows through Senegal’s only mountainous
Bakel. In northern Senegal, you will also find area (the lands surrounding Kedougou) be-
some late-19th-century ‘Omarian’ mosques fore entering The Gambia itself. In the far
SENEGAL

in Sudanese style. Interesting local house south the Casamance River gives the sur-
constructions, range from the banco (mud- rounding region its name, and the Saloum
brick) architecture typical of the Tukulor River enters the ocean via a large delta to
and the stone huts of the Bassari to the cases the south of the Petite Côte. This is a zone of
étages (two-storey, mud-brick houses) and labyrinthine mangrove swamps, salty plains,
cases à impluvium (huge round huts with a lagoons, small creeks and river islands.
 682 S E N E G A L • • F o o d & D r i n k www.lonelyplanet.com

Wildlife Environmental Issues

ANIMALS Overfishing, deforestation and coastal ero-
Main areas for bird-watching include the sion are the main environmental issues the
Parc National des Oiseaux du Djoudj, the country faces. Coastal erosion is mainly
world’s third-largest bird sanctuary; the Parc caused by illegal sandmining. In Malika
National de la Langue de Barbarie; and the near Dakar, the problem has become so great
mangrove areas of the Casamance and the that lines of trees, and the first tourist venues
Siné-Saloum Delta. Inland, the dry Sahel of a once vibrant holiday village are being
landscape supports several arid-savanna claimed by the sea. In another bitter twist, the
species that are seldom seen elsewhere in sand mined isn’t even particularly suitable
Africa. for building, as its high salt content ruins the
Easily recognised mammal species in- metal skeletons of concrete constructions.
clude baboons and three types of monkeys Overfishing is caused by both local
(vervet, patas and red colobus), while Parc fishermen and large European boats, and
National du Niokolo-Koba contains chim- has reached such an extent that Senegal’s
panzee populations. The park also has characteristic fish, the thiof, is beginning to
drier grassland areas where antelope spe- become rare. The community-run Aire Mar-
cies (including cob, roan, waterbuck and ine Protégée de Bamboung, established to
Derby eland) roam, and there’s a chance of protect endangered fish species, is showing
seeing hyenas, buffaloes and hippos. Cross- an impressive rate of success in replenishing
ing the main road through the park in the the species, but only covers a small area.
early morning, you stand a reasonably good Deforestation is partly caused by a grow-
chance of spotting a lion near the roadside. ing demand for farmland, mainly to culti-
vate groundnuts, but trees are also felled
PLANTS for firewood and to make charcoal, much
Senegal lies in the Sahel zone, with a nat- of which is used to smoke fish.
ural vegetation of well-dispersed trees (eg
baobabs) and low scrub. Some northern FOOD & DRINK
areas come close to being desert, and the Staples & Specialities
greenest zones are the Casamance in the Senegal’s national dish is the tiéboudienne
south and the Siné-Saloum, where lush (spelt in different ways, and pronounced
estuary vegetation, including mangroves, chey-bou-jen). The word means fish and rice,
lines creeks and rivers. and refers to a delicious dish of rice cooked in
tomato sauce and served with chunks of fried
National Parks fish, often stuffed with parsley and garlic
Senegal has six national parks: Parc National paste, carrots, cassava and other vegetables.
du Niokolo-Koba (p721) in the southeast, The festive variation is tiebouyape (or yollof
the largest with a wide range of habitat rice), where fish is replaced by meat.
types; Parc National du Delta du Saloum Another regional favourite is yassa poulet,
(p708; coastal lagoons, mangroves, islands grilled chicken marinated in a thick onion
and dry woodland); the Île de la Madeleine and lemon sauce. Occasionally chicken is
(p697) near Dakar; and in northern Sene- replaced by fish or meat, changing the name
gal, Parc National des Oiseaux du Djoudj to yassa poisson (fish) or yassa bœuf (beef).
(p717) and Parc National de la Langue de Mafé, a meaty groundnut sauce served
Barbarie (p717), both noted for their bird with rice, is another typical dish, and
life. Parc National de Basse-Casamance has among the Fula and Tukulor, lacciri (mil-
been closed for years because of rebel activ- let couscous) is common, either eaten with
ity and suspected landmines. a savoury sauce or kosan (milk).
Other protected areas include the Ferlo
SENEGAL

wildlife reserves, the Réserve de Bandia Drinks

(p701), the small reserves of Popenguine Locally produced juices include the hibiscus
and La Somone (the latter a community re- drink bissap, gingembre (ginger beer) and
serve; see p703), and the Aire Marine Prote- bouyi, made from the fruits of the baobab.
gée de Bamboung, an area of protected sea, For a caffeine kick, try a café touba, a
also managed by the local community. spicy brew served in small cups at roadside
www.lonelyplanet.com D A K A R • • O r i e n t a t i o n 683

stalls, or ataaya, concentrated, bittersweet It’s usually polite to finish eating while
green tea that’s served with the free offer of there’s still food in the bowl to show you
an afternoon’s socialising. have had enough, and the shocked com-
Palm wine is a popular home brew, par- ments of ‘you haven’t eaten anything, dig
ticularly in the non-Muslim, and palm-tree in’ are more an acceptance of your finishing,
blessed Casamance. rather than actual invitations to eat more.

Celebrations
The meals served for family celebrations are
more refined versions of staples. For naming
DAKAR
ceremonies, lakh (millet porridge) is served If Dakar only could, it would burst its
with milk or yogurt, and both for baptisms beaches and lead its cacophonic parade of
and weddings, beignet (small doughnuts) are furious drumbeats, screeching traffic, ex-
fried and given to the guests. At Tabaski, uberant nightlife, market shouting, street
every Muslim family slaughters a sheep to hustling and boundless creativity in ever-
commemorate Abraham’s willingness to sac- wider circles across the country. This is a
rifice his son on God’s demand (see p819). feverish city that brims with life. It’s got
some of the best nightclubs, live venues and
Where to Eat & Drink film, music and arts festivals in the whole
Dakar’s restaurant scene is excellent and of West Africa. You’ll rarely have a boring
varied – but meals in the best restaurants day in Dakar, and the city charges only an
can be expensive. If you’re on a budget, occasional fee in unwanted hassle and sly
head for the gargottes (small, local eateries). con-jobs – easily negotiated once you’ve
Be careful, though, some are of rather dubi- learnt a few tricks.
ous hygienic quality.
On the tiny side are the Senegalese tan- ORIENTATION
ganas (literally meaning ‘hot stuff’), where Once a tiny settlement in the south of the
you get your café touba and a sandwich with Cap Vert Peninsula, Dakar now spreads al-
sauce. A dibieterie is a grilled-meat stall, most across its entire triangle. The city’s
usually only open in the evenings, and the heart is the Place de l’Indépendance, from
place people head to before a night out, or which Ave Léopold Senghor leads south in
before returning home in the wee hours of the direction of the Palais Présidentiel. Ave
the morning. Dakar has fantastic patisseries, Pompidou goes west to the hectic area of
places to indulge in cakes and croissants, as Marché Sandaga, while Ave Albert Sarraut
well as a post-nightclub alternative to dibiet- takes you east towards Marché Kermel.
eries for those who only leave at breakfast. The main arteries out of town are Ave du
President Lamine Guèye, which runs north
Vegetarians & Vegans from Place de Soweto, reaching the Gare
Vegetarian food is hard to find and, what’s Routière Pompiers and the main autoroute
worse, there’s little understanding why some- (highway) out of the city. At the eastern edge,
one who can afford it won’t eat meat – vege- the Route de la Corniche-Est (Petite Cor-
tables are for the poor. This means that when niche) winds above cliffs and small beaches,
you order a dish without meat, you’ll still no- linking the main port to the north.
tice a suspicious chicken or fish flavour, just Ave Blaise Diagne takes you northwest,
no ‘bits’. Prepare for a rather limited variety past the Grande Mosquée and La Médina,
of food choices during your stay. to become Ave Cheikh Anta Diop (known
to locals as Route de Ouakam). This road
Habits & Customs runs between Fann and Point E, a pretty,
Meals are traditionally eaten squatting on the middle-class quartier (suburb), before
SENEGAL

floor, grouped around a large platter of rice reaching Mermoz, Ouakam, and finally
and sauce. People mostly eat the traditional Pointe des Almadies and N’Gor. The Route
rice dishes with a spoon or the hand. If you de la Corniche-Ouest (Grande Corniche)
try the hand version, make sure you use your runs along the Atlantic Ocean roughly par-
right only – the left is the hand you wipe your allel to Ave Cheikh Anta Diop; here you’ll
bum with and is strictly out at meal times. see the city’s finest homes.
 Dakar
684 D A K A R www.lonelyplanet.com

0 500 m
DAKAR 0 0.3 miles

é
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2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
1 Grande Mosquée.......................11 A2
l'Océanium................................12 C4
Ave

Stade Iba Mar Diop....................13 A2

5
Paste

West Africa Sport Fishing.........(see 21)

Plage de l'Anse
ATLANTIC
ur

Bernard
SLEEPING
OCEAN Hôtel Faidherbe..........................14 B2
5 Hôtel le Savana .........................15 C5

15 EATING
Aux Fins Palais...........................16 B3
Patisserie Médina.......................17 A2

ENTERTAINMENT
INFORMATION Koulgraoul...............................(see 12)
Ave

Belgian Embassy...........................1 B5 Théâtre Daniel Sorano...............(see 3)

British Embassy.............................2 B4
Pas

Canadian Embassy.......................3 B3 TRANSPORT

teu

Lighthouse
German Embassy..........................4 B4 Boat to Casamance....................18 D2
r
SENEGAL

Hôpital le Dantec..........................5 B5 Budget.......................................19 B2

Hôpital Principal...........................6 C4 Car Mouride Bus Stop.................20 B1
6 Italian Embassy.............................7 B4 Ferries for Île de Gorée...............21 C2
Pain de Singe...........................(see 12) Gare Routière Pompiers..............22 B1
Pharmacie Mandela......................8 B4 Ndiaga Ndiaye buses to Point E,
Spanish Embassy..........................9 C4 Cap Manuel
Ouakam, N'Gor, Yoff.............23 B3
Swiss Embassy............................10 B3 Somat Ticket Office.................(see 21)
www.lonelyplanet.com S E N E G A L D A K A R • • I n f o r m a t i o n 685

Maps Hôpital le Dantec (Map p684; %889 3800; Ave

By far the best city map is the colourful, Pasteur) Has the best-trained staff, but terribly neglected
detailed one by Editions Laure Kane (www infrastructure.
.editionslaurekane.com; CFA3700). You can Hôpital Principal (Map p684; %839 5050; Ave
find it in most souvenir shops and hotels. Léopold Senghor) Fairly well-organised, with the main
emergency department in Dakar.
INFORMATION Suma Urgences (Map p691; %824 2418; Fann
The free listings magazines Dakar Tam Tam Résidence, Ave Cheikh Anta Diop) Can give assistance in
and l’Avis and the pocket magazine Clin emergencies.
d’Oeil contain useful phone numbers, includ-
ing those of embassies and hospitals and are Dakar has many pharmacies. Most open
available in hotels, restaurants and shops. from 8am to 11pm, and there’s a rotational
The tiny glossy 221 (CFA500) is an ex- 24-hour stand-by system; you’ll find details
cellent source of information on cultural of the current 24 hour place outside every
and sports events around the country, and pharmacy.
includes Dakar concert listings. Pharmacie Mandela (Map p684; %821 2172; Ave
Nelson Mandela) Near the Hôpital Principal.
Bookshops
There’s little available in English, the fol- Money
lowing have English books and magazines. BICIS, CBAO, Citibank and SGBS have of-
Librairie aux Quatre Vents (Map p686; %821 8083; fices around Place de l’Indépendance. They
Rue Félix Faure; h8.45am-12.30pm & 3-6.45pm) all change money, though travellers cheques
Librairie Clairafrique (Map p686; %822 2169; Rue can sometimes be problematic. Except
el Haji M’Baye Guèye; h8.45am-12.30pm & 3-6.45pm Citibank, they all have ATMs (withdrawal
Mon-Sat) limit usually CFA250,000) The suburbs are
equally well served with ATM-enhanced
Cultural Centres banks and petrol stations.
British Council (Map p691; %869 2700; www.british BICIS (Map p686; %839 0390; Place de l’Indépendance;
council.org/senegal; Rue Joseph Gomis, Amitíe Zone A-B) Has h7.45am-3.45pm Mon-Fri)
a library with English magazines, books and newspapers. CBAO (Map p686; %839 9696; Place de l’Indépendance)
L’Institut Français Léopold Sédar Senghor (Map Citibank (Map p686; %849 11 11; Place de
p686; %823 0320; www.institutfr-dakar.org; 89 Rue l’Indépendance)
Joseph Gomis) A cultural hub with regular exhibitions, SGBS (Map p686; %839 55 00; 19 Ave Léopold Sédar
concerts, events. Also has a pretty café, souvenir shop and Senghor)
glass-painters workshop in a leafy garden.
Post
Internet Access Main post office (Map p686; Blvd el Haji Djily Mbaye;
There are plenty of Internet cafés in Dakar. h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat) Near Marché
Most charge between CFA300 and CFA500 Kermel. This is where you’ll find the poste restante. Letters
per hour. Outside the centre, the university are held for up to 30 days, the cost is CFA250.
area is well covered with cybercafés. Post office (Map p686; Ave Pompidou) Smaller and at
Cyber-Business Centre (Map p686; %823 3223; Ave the eastern end of Ave Pompidou. Has a small télécentre
Léopold Senghor; h8am-midnight) and a Western Union service.
Espace Sentoo (Map p686; Place de l’Indépendance;
h9.30am-8pm) Telephone
Espacetel Plus (Map p686; %822 9062; Blvd de la There are dozens of télécentres, mostly with
République; h8am-midnight) similar rates. Post offices and Internet cafés
often also have telephone facilities.
Medical Services
SENEGAL

Most embassies have a list of doctors used Travel Agencies

to dealing with nonresidents, particularly Dakar has plenty of travel agencies. Good
those speaking your language. ones include the following:
Clinique Pasteur (Map p686; %839 9200; 50 Rue Dakar Voyages (Map p686; %823 3704;
Carnot) This privately run place is not the first choice for [email protected]; 28 Rue Assane Ndoye) Tends to
emergencies, but good for malaria tests. have the best ticket deals.
 SENEGAL
0 200 m
CENTRAL DAKAR 0 0.1 miles
33

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Rue Paul Holle Rue Masclary ly
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Rue Malenfant
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Rue Paul Holle e
ὈὈ 14 39 3 Rue de

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Rue des Essarts s Messa

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73 40
25 28 Marché ue

Rue Caillè

Rue Moussé Diop

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686 D A K A R • • C e n t r a l D a k a r

Ba e É Sandaga
Rue de Thiong 34 82 56

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Rue de Mèdine
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Rue Wagane Diouf

43 70 59 27
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Rue Bèrenger Feraud

Ave Pompid 71
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Rue Mage

Ave du President Lamine Guèye

Rue Salva
2 81 de la
36 45 21 Route
79 Rue Amadou Assane Ndoye
55 8 11
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15 Rue Carnot
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80 Rue Carnot
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Rue Colbert
63 60 Cor
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51 Rue Félix Faure 78 68 te d
38 22 Rou

Rue du Docteur Thèze

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67 Line Plage
61

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32
Rue Jules Ferry 57

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www.lonelyplanet.com

ὈὈ
www.lonelyplanet.com S E N E G A L D A K A R • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 687

INFORMATION Palais Présidentiel......................31 B4 DRINKING

American Embassy...................... 1 A4 Pôle Linguistique de l'Institut Café Indigo...............................60 B3
BICIS Bank..................................2 C2 Français..............................(see 26) Chez Grenelles........................(see 36)
Cape Verde Embassy..................3 D1 Iguane Café..............................61 B3
CBAO Bank................................ 4 C2 SLEEPING Le Mex......................................62 B2
Citibank...................................... 5 C2 Hôtel Al Afifa............................32 A3 Le Seven...................................63 B3
Clinique Pasteur..........................6 B2 Hôtel Continental......................33 B1 Snooker Palace..........................64 B1
Cyber-Business Centre................7 B3 Hôtel de l'Indépendance...........34 C2
Dakar Voyages...........................8 C2 Hôtel Farid.................................35 B1 ENTERTAINMENT
Dutch Embassy........................... 9 A4 Hôtel Ganalé.............................36 A2 Kadjinol Station........................ 65 D2
Espace Sentoo.........................(see 17) Hôtel Lagon II........................... 37 D2 King's Club................................66 B3
Espacetel Plus........................... 10 A3 Hôtel le Miramar.......................38 B3 Playclub..................................(see 32)
French Embassy........................ 11 D2 Hôtel Océanic...........................39 D1
Gambian High Commission.......12 B2 Hôtel Provençal.........................40 C1 SHOPPING
Librairie aux Quatres Vents.......13 B3 Hôtel Saint-Louis Sun................41 A3 Cocktail du Sénégal...................67 B3
Librairie Clairafrique..................14 C1 Sofitel Teranga......................... 42 C2 Galerie Antenna........................ 68 C3
L'Institut Français Léopold Sédar Marché Sandaga....................... 69 A2
Senghor................................15 B2 EATING
Main Post Office.......................16 D1 Ali Baba Snack Bar....................43 B2 TRANSPORT
Mboup Voyages....................... 17 C2 Caesar's.................................... 44 A3 Afrique Location.......................(see 8)
Nouvelles Frontières..................18 B4 Chez Loutcha............................45 B2 Air France................................. 70 C2
Post Office................................19 B2 Fili Fili Supermarket...................46 C1 Air Guinée.................................71 B2
Sahel Découverte Bassari...........20 C1 Keur N'Deye..............................47 B1 Air Ivoire...................................72 C1
SDV Voyages..........................(see 70) La Casa Créole..........................48 D1 Air Mali.....................................73 B1
Senegal Tours........................... 21 C2 La Fourchette............................49 D1 Air Sénégal International........... 74 C2
SGBS Bank................................ 22 C3 La Metissacana.........................50 A2 Alitalia.......................................75 B2
VIA Senegal Voyages................ 23 C3 La Royaltine..............................51 A3 Dakar Location..........................76 B2
La Villa DDD Bus Terminal....................77 D1
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Chez Yannick........................52 C1 Ethiopian Airlines.......................78 B3
Assemblée Nationale................ 24 A4 Lagon I..................................... 53 D3 Hertz........................................ 79 A2
Chambre de Le Bambou................................54 B3 Iberia......................................(see 17)
Commerce.............................25 C1 Le Méléa...................................55 B2 Noprola....................................(see 8)
Galerie le Manège.................... 26 D2 Le Sarraut................................. 56 D2 Royal Air Maroc......................(see 17)
Galerie Nationale...................... 27 D2 Le Toukouleur...........................57 B3 Senecartours............................. 80 A2
Gouvernance............................28 C1 Ozio.......................................(see 54) SN Brussels............................... 81 C2
Hôtel de Ville............................29 C1 Restaurant VSD......................(see 62) South African Airways.............. 82 C2
IFAN Museum.......................... 30 A4 Saveur d'Asie............................58 C1 TACV Cabo Verde Airlines........83 B2
Lagon I...................................(see 53) Score Supermarket.................... 59 C2 TAP Air Portugal.....................(see 81)

Mboup Voyages (Map p686; %821 8163; DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

[email protected]; Place de l’Indépendance) Beware of pickpockets, especially at the mar-
One of the most enduring touring agencies. kets and on Ave Pompidou. Less worrying,
Nouvelles Frontières (Map p686; %823 3434; fax but very annoying, are street traders and
822 2817; 3 Blvd de la République) Often has cheap seats hustlers. Be firm but friendly to shake them
to Paris on charter flights. off. A confident bakhna (it’s OK), or après
Pain de Singe (Map p686; %824 2484; (later) usually gets rid of them. Don’t fall
[email protected]) Unbeatable for ecotourism, off-the prey to the inner-city scams. The ‘remember
beaten track and original circuits. You can contact it at me?’ scam is particularly popular. Someone
l’Océanium (p688). might call out ‘my friend, long time no see!’,
Sahel Découverte Bassari (Map p686; %842 8751; pretending they know you, then cheat you
[email protected], [email protected]; out of money. The remedy: don’t respond to
7 Rue Masclary) This company yas a range of inspired tours random calls. If someone doesn’t know your
around Senegal and caters for English, French and Spanish name, chances are they don’t know you, and
speakers. mistaken rudeness to someone you did ac-
SDV Voyages (Map p686; %839 0081; tually know is still preferable to having your
[email protected]; 51 Ave Albert Sarraut) passport and purse snatched.
The Diners Club agent. Muggings occur occasionally, particu-
SENEGAL

Senegal Tours (Map p686; %839 9900; larly after dark, and as in most cities around
fax 823 2644; 5 Place de l’Indépendance) One of the largest the world, women should avoid walking
tour operators in the country. Good for trips throughout around alone at night or waiting for taxis
the country. in empty areas.
VIA Senegal Voyages (Map p686; %823 3300; Some vigilance and common sense should
www.viavoyages.sn; 13 Rue Colbert) help you get around unharmed – inner-city
 688 D A K A R • • S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com

Dakar can be a pain to walk around, but dresser in town, but also one of the most
Lagos it ain’t, and none of the areas men- original art galleries. The salon is decorated
tioned is a no-go zone. with urban sous-verre (reverse glass painting)
motives à la car rapide. In Hann, the fantastic
SIGHTS gallery Caracolo (Map p693; %832 1590; www.caracolo
Historical Buildings .com; 7 Allée Marinas) exhibits and sells works made
Central Dakar has a few impressive colonial by local artisans, uniquely using materials
buildings. The Gouvernance (Map p686) and ‘found’ in the immediate creative space.
the Chambre de Commerce (Map p686), both on
Place de l’Indépendance, a remarkable space ACTIVITIES
itself. The stately Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall; Diving
Map p686) sits right behind, and a short L’Océanium (Map p684; %822 2441; www.oceanium
walk north takes you to the train station (Map .org; Route de la Corniche-Est; hMon-Sat), which is
p684), whose elegant façade inspires ideas of an environmental-protection agency, runs
romantic train journeys (quickly wiped away excellent diving excursions, ranging from
once you enter the bleak interior). introductory half-day dives to longer expe-
A short walk east takes you to the round- ditions. Divers can stay at the l’Océanium
house of Marché Kermel (Map p686), a repro- for reasonable rates.
duction of the original 1860 building. Further
south, the awe-inspiring 1907 Palais Présiden- Fishing
tiel (Map p686; Ave Léopold Senghor) is surrounded by You can arrange deep-sea fishing at West Af-
sumptuous gardens and guards in colonial- rica Sport Fishing (Map p684; %823 2858; fffs@sentoo
style uniforms. The modern glass front of .sn; Embarcadère de Gorée). The restaurant Lagon I
the parliament, the Assemblée Nationale (Map (Map p686; %821 5322; Route de la Corniche-Est) also
p686) on Place Soweto is in easy reach. organises fishing trips and boasts several
The impressive Grande Mosquée (Map world-record catches.
p684), built in 1964, sits in the heart of the
bustling neighbourhood of Médina, home to Swimming
a busy market and birthplace of Senegalese Beaches within easy reach of the city include
superstar Youssou N’Dour. Further north, the private beach (Map p686) near Hôtel
the 1864 lighthouse Les Mamelles (Map p693) Lagoon II and Plage de l’Anse Bernard (Map
sits on a small volcanic hill, from where you p684) near Hôtel Le Savana. For swimming
get great views across Dakar. and sunbathing, the beaches of N’Gor (p698)
and Île de Gorée (p696) are better. Other than
Museums & Art Galleries that, there’s always the chlorine option.
Though slightly dusty, Dakar’s IFAN Museum Dakar’s best swimming pool is the sub-
(Map p686; Place de Soweto; adult/child CFA2000/200; lime Piscine Olympique (Map p691; %869 0606;
h8am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm) compares well to [email protected]; Tour de l’Oeuf ) in Point E,
the national museums of other West African which is part of a huge sports complex.
nations. There are imaginative displays of Most top-end hotels allow nonguests to ac-
masks and traditional dress from the region cess their pools for a small fee. The pool
(including Mali, Guinea-Bissau, Benin and at Sofitel Teranga is free if you eat at the
Nigeria), as well as fabrics and carvings, mu- adjoining restaurant, otherwise it will cost
sical instruments and agricultural tools. you CFA4500 (CFA7000 on Sunday). The
Numerous small art galleries invite you to Hôtel de l’Indépendance charges CFA3000
discover the city’s vibrant contemporary arts for its rooftop pool with a great view of
scene. The Galerie le Manège (Map p686; %821 Dakar (free if you have a meal).
0822; 3 Rue Parchappe; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat), has ex-
cellent exhibitions in a beautifully restored Surfing
SENEGAL

19th-century building. The space of the Dakar is great for surfing, ask at the Tribal
Galerie Nationale (Map p686; %821 2511; 19 Ave Albert Surf Shop (Map p693; %646 0914, 820 5400; tribal@arc
Sarraut; admission free; h9am-6pm) is less enticing, .sn; Yoff Virage) for advice on good spots. This
but its exhibitions are usually very good. is also the best place to hire boards (per day
In Point E, Salon Michéle Ka (Map p691; %824 CFA10,000), take courses, buy gear and get
7033; Tour de l’Oeuf ) is not only the funkiest hair- your board repaired.
www.lonelyplanet.com S E N E G A L D A K A R • • C o u r s e s 689

Wrestling even have a touch of character. For your

Dakar’s main arena for traditional wrestling own bathroom and air-con you pay some
is in Médina, near the large Stade Iba Mar Diop CFA5000 more.
(Map p684; Ave Blaise Diagne). Most matches are Hôtel Provençal (Map p686; %822 1069; 17 Rue
announced only on the radio, but important Malenfant; s/d CFA14,400/16,800) This isn’t too bad
ones will be advertised around town, and for a place where rooms are often rented
talked about incessantly by the locals. Satur- by the hour. Just make sure you get a room
day and/or Sunday are the usual days for the upstairs and you’ll avoid most of the noise.
fights, starting around 4.30pm or 5pm.
Midrange
COURSES Most hotels in this range have rooms with
The Pôle Linguistique de l’Institut Français (Map private bathrooms. Prices do not include
p686; %823 84 83; 3 Rue Parchappe; hOct-May) runs tax (CFA600 per person).
recommended Wolof and French courses Hôtel Saint-Louis Sun (Map p686; %822 2570; fax
(four hours per week for 12 weeks; 822 4651; Rue Félix Faure; s/d/tr CFA23,000/29,500/35,500;
CFA90,000). Keen dancers should try the pa) Pretty rooms with big, glass doors
Centre Culturel Blaise Senghor (Map p691; Rue 10). Its opening onto a peaceful, green courtyard.
bleak façade doesn’t do justice to the creative Right in the heart of Dakar, this allows for
bustle going on inside – just beware of the a mental escape from the crowds and fumes
faux-drummers, out to hassle women. that wash past it.
Hôtel Ganalé (Map p686; %889 4444; hganale@sentoo
FESTIVALS & EVENTS .sn; 38 Rue Amadou Assane Ndoye; s/d CFA28,000/35,000, apt
Dakar’s cultural calendar is packed, and CFA38,000-48,000) This place is a gem. Rooms are
outside the wettest months (July and Au- bright and tastefully decorated, all equipped
gust), you’re almost bound to stumble with TV and telephone and the restaurant
across a festival. is excellent.
Kaay Fecc (%826 4950; www.ausenegal.com/kaayfecc) Hôtel Mamelles (Map p693; %860 0000; www
is one of Africa’s best events for contempor- .lesmamelles.com; s/d CFA10,000/15,000, with bathroom
ary and traditional dance. It usually happens CFA14,500/19,500) Tucked away in a side street
in early June. Film lovers shouldn’t miss the in the quartier Les Mamelles, this tranquil
annual Festival International du Film de Quartier place has colourfully decorated rooms set
(www.festivaldufilmdequartier.com) featuring the best around a leafy patio.
of contemporary film in cultural centres, res- Hôtel Océanic (Map p686; %822 2044; www.hotel
taurants and other spaces. The Dak’Art Bien- oceanicdakar.com; 9 Rue de Thann; s/d/tr/q CFA21,600/
nale (%823 0918; www.dakart.org) is the queen of 25,800/33,000/36,800; a) With spotless rooms
Dakar’s festivals. It drowns the city in colour, and a relaxed courtyard restaurant, this
with art exhibitions all across town. pleasant old-style place is fair value.
Hôtel Faidherbe (Map p684; %889 1750; faid
SLEEPING [email protected]; cnr Ave Faidherbe & Raffenel; s/d/ste
Dakar has a very wide range of accommoda- CFA36,000/42,000/70,000) This hotel has got plenty
tion from filthy dosshouses to palatial ho- of the niceties of a top-end place – broad-
tels – although everything is expensive and band connection in the rooms, swimming
the steadily increasing prices are only justi- pool, ATM and a cosy bar – for a much
fied in a few places. Outside the city centre, better rate than the grand hotels.
the suburbs of Yoff (p699) and N’Gor (p698) Hôtel le Miramar (Map p686; %849 2929; mira
also have a number of good options . [email protected]; 25 Rue Félix Faure; s/d incl breakfast
CFA25,600/31,200; a) Some call it funky, some
Budget call it scruffy. It’s great for ambience, though
There’s hardly such a thing as a budget a concerted effort at renovation wouldn’t be
SENEGAL

hotel in Dakar. The cheapest places are usu- lost on this gaudily coloured place.
ally brothels with a sure chance of theft. Hôtel Farid (Map p686; %821 6127; www.hotel
These two are acceptable. farid.com; 51 Rue Vincens; s/d from CFA26,500/29,000) It
Hôtel Continental (Map p686; %822 1083; 10 looks modest, but has some of the best-
Rue Galandou Diouf; s/d from CFA13,000/15,000; a ) maintained rooms in central Dakar. And
The best of the cheapest. The basic rooms the Lebanese restaurant is addictive.
 690 D A K A R • • E a t i n g www.lonelyplanet.com

Auberge Marie-Lucienne (Map p691; %869 0090; Restaurants

Rue A; Point E; s/d CFA28,920/36,000) It calls itself Keur N’Deye (Map p686; %821 4973; 68 Rue Vincens;
an auberge (inn or hostel), but it is actu- dishes from CFA1500) Highly recommended, this
ally quite a well-furnished, little hotel in place offers well-prepared Senegalese spe-
a calm part of town. Rooms have TV and cialities. At most times, the tinkling of the
hot water. kora (harplike instrument) accompanies
your eager clattering of cutlery.
Top End Chez Loutcha (Map p686; %821 0302; 101 Rue
All hotels in this range have rooms with Moussé Diop; dishes CFA2500-3500; h noon-3pm &
private bathrooms and accept major credit 7-11pm Mon-Sat) Head straight for the air-
cards. conditioned garden, where the fountains
Hôtel Al Afifa (Map p686; %889 9090; gmbafifa@ embellish an aquatic theme. The Cape Ver-
telecomplus.sn; 46 Rue Jules Ferry; s/d/ste CFA37,000/ dean and ‘Euro-African’ cuisine is excellent
40,000/45,000) This place is ageing a little, but and comes in enormous serves.
it retains some of its lustre. Ask for room Restaurant VSD (Map p686; % 661 3333; 91
103 – the only one with a terrace. The Rue Moussé Diop; mains CFA3500; h 7am-midnight)
bar, restaurant and disco downstairs offer There’s not much jazz at this intimate place
plenty of nightlife. any more, but the West African and inter-
Sofitel Teranga (Map p686; %889 2200; fax 823 national dishes are still good value.
5001; Place de l’Indépendance; r from CFA136,000; s) La Villa Chez Yannick (Map p686; %823 2197; 4
Part of the Accor Hotel group, this is exactly Rue Malenfant; mains CFA5000; h11am-3pm & 7-11pm)
what you’d expect from a luxury, business- French food and a few miscellaneous inter-
men’s favourite. Facilities include tennis national dishes are served in an airy out-
courts, sauna, shops and a nightclub. door setting.
Hôtel Lagon II (Map p686; %889 2525; www.lagon Le Méléa (Map p686; %502 8293; 90 Rue Moussé
.sn; Route de la Corniche-Est; s/d/ste CFA72,000/80,000/12 Diop; dishes CFA5000) This tiny French restaurant
0,000; ai) If you can bear the kitsch sea- is all simple elegance, and the food tastes
farers décor, this is a great place to view the divine. The catch: it can get a little smoky.
ocean from cabin-style rooms perched on Le Sarraut (Map p686; %822 5523; Ave Albert Sarraut;
stilts at the edge of the water. meals around CFA5000-8000; h8am-midnight Mon-Sat)
Hôtel le Savana (Map p684; %849 4242; www This is a Dakar classic, and for good reason.
.savana.sn; Route de la Corniche-Est; s/d CFA74,000/80,000; The tasty French and international cuisine in
ais) If you really want to relax in style, this calm, central place is hard to beat.
this ingenious construction overlooking the Le Bambou (Map p686; %822 0645; 19 Rue Vic-
ocean is the place to go. Facilities include a tor Hugo; mains CFA6000-10,000) If money is not
business centre, fishing deck, private jetty, a concern, then head to Le Bambou, the
tennis courts, nightclub, sauna and gym. culinary equivalent of a day’s pampering.
Ozio (Map p686; %823 8787; 21 Rue Victor Hugo;
EATING meals around CFA5000-9000) This uber-trendy res-
Dakar’s restaurant scene is one of the capi- taurant has been a favourite of the glittering
tal’s highlights. There are about 100 eateries classes for years. The food is good, and is
in the town centre alone, and that’s before served with the ego-tickling sense that you
you’ve even headed for the suburbs, where belong to the in-crowd.
chic restaurants open all the time. Lagon I (Map p686; %821 5831; Route de la Corniche-
The French cuisine, a hangover from the Est; mains around CFA7000) In this restaurant, the
colonial past, is a particular highlight, but nautical theme is consistently pursued from
the culinary range stretches from Cape Ver- cruise-ship décor to the cabin-style toilets,
dean over Vietnamese to Thai and Mexican. the terrace suspended on stilts in the ocean
The seafood tends to be particularly good in to the scrumptious platters of seafood.
SENEGAL

Dakar. For flavoursome yassa poulet and Saveur d’Asie (Map p686; %821 4774; 21 Rue de
tiéboudienne you’re best off in one of the Thann; dishes around CFA5000) Hugely popular,
small places frequented by the locals. Res- this takeaway restaurant makes a mysteri-
taurants are usually open for lunch and din- ous promise to serve Senegalese-Asian cuis-
ner, with some staying open all day. Most ine and sells most of the works of Youssou
places are closed on Sundays. N’Dour in its adjacent boutique.
Point E
www.lonelyplanet.com S E N E G A L D A K A R • • E a t i n g 691

POINT E 0
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0.2 miles

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INFORMATION kh 10 Rue

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British Council..............................1 C2 ta

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Ghanian Embassy.........................2 B1 op ca
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Guinea-Bissau & Guinean
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Embassies.................................3 B1 Université 13
Moroccan Embassy......................4 A2 Cheikh Anta
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Suma Urgences............................5 A2
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3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

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ENTERTAINMENT n
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Pen'Art.......................................12 B3 te d
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Sunset........................................13 C3
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Thiossane...................................14 C1
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Jardin Thailandais (Map p691; %825 5833; 10 Impeccable sushi and dishes from around
Blvd du Sud; meals around CFA8000; hlunch & dinner the world, prepared by two of Dakar’s most
Mon-Sat) There’s no better Thai, perhaps no renowned chefs, attract expats and trendy
better Asian food altogether, in the whole crowds. And don’t leave without indulging
of Senegal than that served at this pretty in the heavenly roti au chocolate (a sinfully
place in Point E. rich chocolate desert).
La Casa Créole (Map p686; %823 4081; 21 Blvd Le Toukouleur (Map p686; %821 5193; 122 Rue
Djily Mbaye; meals around CFA4000-6000; hMon-Sat) Moussé Diop; meals around CFA5000-8000; hMon-Sat)
Don’t be put off by the busy pub at the Divine. The setting oozes character and
front – walk right through, and you get to the cuisine is a refined mix of international
a marvellous garden terrace where French flavours.
SENEGAL

and Creole food are served with a sprink-

ling of live jazz. Cafés & Patisseries
La Fourchette (Map p686; %821 8887; 4 Rue Parent; In Dakar, a patisserie is not somewhere to
meals around CFA6000-10,000; hMon-Sat) The humble buy your bread, but a gleaming place to take
exterior betrays nothing of the polished food a special friend if you really want to make
temple that hides behind the plain doors. an impression.
 692 D A K A R • • D r i n k i n g www.lonelyplanet.com

La Royaltine (Map p686; %821 9994; Ave du Prési- DRINKING

dent Lamine Guèye) Guarded by a uniformed por- The town centre has a scattering of good
ter, and drenched in soft, golden lighting, bars all in easy reach for an progressively
Dakar’s most polished patisserie oozes class. hilarious pub crawl, but don’t miss out on
The local middle classes swagger in here for the excellent places in the suburbs.
tasty cakes, desserts and chocolates. Le Mex (Map p686; %823 6717; 91 Rue Moussé Diop;
Aux Fins Palais (Map p684; %823 4445; 97 Ave hnoon-2am) This colourful Mexican place
André Petyavin; breads CFA150-700) It’s easy to tire transforms from a restaurant into a lively
of French bread in Dakar. This is one of the bar once the sun has set. It’s popular with
few places that serve an excellent range of the French military and their obligatory fe-
wholemeal bread. male following, but can still be fun.
Patisserie Médina (Map p684; Ave Faidherbe; pastries Le Seven (Map p686; %842 6911; 25 Rue Mohamed V)
around CFA500-800; h24hr) Dakar’s terminus. The glittering queen of Dakar’s bars. Think
Every night out ends here at 5am, with cof- champagne bubbles, tiny tank tops, and
fee and croissants. With some luck, you’ll the latest hits. So branché, you risk electro-
even see some of Senegal’s biggest music cution – this is where the in-crowd parties.
and football stars huddled around cups of Snooker Palace (Map p686; %822 9487; 44 Rue Wa-
hot chocolate. gane Diouf ) A snooker hall, which starts early
Le Metissacana (Map p686; %822 2043; Rue de and gets hotter by the hour. Giant screens
Thiong) The leafy patio is great for an after- are perfect for watching football matches.
noon coffee. Best of all – you can browse Café Indigo (Map p686; %842 2607; 26 Rue Félix
through the original creations by famous Faure; h7am-midnight) Somewhere between a
fashion designer Oumou Sy and her stu- restaurant, café and a bar, this is a relaxed
dents in the adjacent boutique. place to start your night out.
Iguane Café (Map p686; 26 Rue Jules Ferry) This tiny
Quick Eats place is draped in mock-military décor. This
All across Dakar, you’ll see women stirring may be aggressive to the eye, but the atmos-
pots of mafé and grilling fish in the street phere is decidedly relaxed and friendly.
and makeshift cafés (tangana – meaning Chez Grenelles (Map p686; % 889 4444; Hôtel
‘hot’) selling steaming glasses of spiced café Ganalé, 38 Rue Amadou Assane Ndoye) Classy and
Touba (spicy coffee brew) with a slice of imaginatively decorated, this place gets
bread and butter. A fast-food favourite is crowded with a predominately French and
the shwarma, sold in snack bars and res- Lebanese crowd.
taurants (CFA800).
Ali Baba Snack Bar (Map p686; %822 5297; Ave ENTERTAINMENT
Pompidou; snacks from CFA600; h8am-2am) Dakar’s For a fun night out, don’t even get your kit on
classic fast-food haunt serves the whole before midnight. Leaving the house at 1am
greasy range of kebabs, shwarmas and other means great timing, returning home before
quick snacks. 4am is a sign of weakness. Now go party.
Caesar’s (Map p686; %842 7879; 27 Blvd de la
République; pizzas around CFA3000) Sometimes only Live Music
greasy chicken wings, burgers and fries will The live music scene was booming when
do, and for those moments Caesar’s is your we visited. More and more restaurants
place. and bars feature small stages, and many
nightclubs host live gigs. In restaurants,
Self-Catering admission is often free, while clubs charge
Score Supermarket (Map p686; 31 Ave Albert Sarraut) between CFA3000 and CFA5000.
in the town centre is good for food, im- Just 4 U (Map p691; %824 3250, 634 4801; km 2.5, Ave
ported items, sanitary and baby products, Cheikh Anta Diop; h11am-3am) This spacious bar-
SENEGAL

and plenty of other nonfood items. Fili Fili restaurant is the best address for live music
Supermarket (Map p686; Ave Allés Delmas), three in Dakar. There’s a concert every night,
blocks north of Place de l’Indépendance, sometimes even two. Senegalese greats like
is a dusty little place with slightly cheaper Cheikh Lô, Souleymane Faye and Orchestra
prices but a much smaller range of stock. Baobab, as well as visiting greats, proudly
For fresh food, try the markets (see p694). take their regular place on the small stage.
www.lonelyplanet.com S E N E G A L D A K A R • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t 693

Pen’Art (Map p691; % 864 5131; Blvd du Sud) this mbalax club on the northeast corner
Around the corner from Just 4 U, this is a of the intersection of Ave Blaise Diagne and
cosy jazz club with good bands in a relaxed Blvd de la Gueule-Tapée.
atmosphere.
Kilimanjaro (Map p693; %822 6991; Soumbédi- Nightclubs
oune) The mighty Thione Seck plays here, at Playclub (Map p686; Hôtel Al Afifa, 46 Rue Jules Ferry)
his personal club, every weekend. Fabulous. The club of the Hôtel Al Afifa is a classy
Men – don’t forget your suit and tie... affair for over 30s, hence the music is a little
Thiossane (Map p691; %824 6046; Sicap Rue 10) smoother and spiced with salsa beats.
Youssou N’Dour’s nightclub was once the Koulgraoul (Map p684; %505 6969; l’Océanium,
hottest place in town, but is now frequently Route de la Corniche-Est; admission CFA2500) This re-
closed when the star is out of town. And laxed, once-monthly club night in the gar-
even if he’s there, he rarely appears on den of the l’Océanium attracts a mixed,
stage before 3am. Still, it’s a hub of the hip- laid-back crowd.
swaying, high-heeled mbalax scene. King’s Club (Map p686; 32 Rue Victor Hugo) This
Sunset (Map p693; %821 2118; Centre Commercial inner-city club is hugely popular for its
Sahm) Similarly popular with the Dakarois, heavy dance beats and good vibes.
0 2 km
GREATER DAKAR 0 1 mile

A B Île de Yoff C Plage Cambérène D

de Yoff

Ὀ
4
Île Plage 7 23 Yoff Pikine
6 N'Gor 14
de N'Gor
Route des Almadies N'Gor r To Thiès
1 Village 10 'Go
9 de N Route des
5 Stade Léopold Patte (60km)
e
16
out 19 Cimetières Sédar Senghor d'Oie
13 11 R
20 17 Léopold Sédar
15 12 Senghor
Pointe des 18 International
Almadies Secret Airport Parc Forestier
Les Almadies Les Mamelles de Hann
& Zoo
8
Liberté VI
Rout e VDN

Les
Mamelles
Plage de Hann
Ouakam
INFORMATION Sacré Hann
Ave CA

Coeur
Bamba

Librairie Polyglotte...................(see 20)

Autoroute

2 Malian Embassy...........................1 C3 Mermoz

Mauritanian Consulate.................2 C2
See Point E Map (p691)
21 3 Bel-Air
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Point E Industrial Plage Monaco
Caracolo......................................3 D2 Area & Plage dela
r
Layen Mausoleum........................4 C1 Ai 2 25 Voile d'Or
el
Village des Arts............................5 C1 nB
Fan
de Medina
SLEEPING ca
1 Ro See Dakar Map (p684)
Chez Carla....................................6 B1 A
Hôtel Cap Ouest...........................7 B1 An ve C
Fann ta he Port Fer
Hôtel Mamelles............................8 B2 ATLANTIC Di ik ry t
op h
Hôtel Meridien President..............9 A1 22 Go o Île d
24 Soumbédioune rée e
Hôtel N'Gor Diarama..................10 B1 OCEAN
Pointe
3 La Brazzerade.............................11 B1 de Fann
La Detente.................................12 A1 Île
de Gorée
La Madrague...........................(see 11)
Av

Le Lodge des Almadies...............13 B1 Île de la

Boats

Via Via.......................................14 C1 Madeleine

Paste

Ferry to
ur

EATING
Cabane des Pêcheurs...............(see 11) Cap
La Crêpe Bretonne...................(see 15) Manuel
Casam

La Pointe des Almadies...............15 A1 SHOPPING

La Terrasse d'Anvers..................(see 7) Marché des HLM....................... 21 C2
ance

Montechristo...........................(see 20) Soumbédioune Artisanal Market..22 C3

Tribal Surf Shop..........................23 B1
SENEGAL

ENTERTAINMENT
4 Alma City...................................16 B1 TRANSPORT
Aquarela do Brazil ......................17 B1 Avis...........................................(see 9)
Blue Note....................................18 B1 Boats to Île de la Madeleine.......24 C3
Casino du Cap Vert....................19 B1 Budget.......................................(see 9)
Koch.B.......................................20 B1 Gare Routière Colobane.............25 C2
Senat.........................................(see 9) Silcar..........................................(see 9)

Greater Dakar
 694 D A K A R • • S h o p p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com

Theatre The leafy suburb of Point E houses several

Théâtre Daniel Sorano (Map p684; %822 1715; Blvd chic shops, such as Naaj (Map p691; %825 7546;
de la République) The Ensemble Instrumental, www.naaj.sn; Rue 1), where you can find tableware,
the Ballet National du Sénégal and the decorated in traditional glass painting tech-
Théâtre National du Sénégal frequently nique. The airy patio setting of Agora (Map p691;
perform at Senegal’s national theatre. %864 1448; Rue D) displays beautiful Moroccan
artwork and home décor at steep prices. Near
Cinemas Soumbédioune, the Atelier Baba Diawara (Map
Kadjinol Station (Map p686; %842 8662; www.kadji p693; Route de la Corniche Ouest) is a magic corner
nol-edu.com; off Ave Albert Sarraut) This lounge bar selling funky bags, toys, CD racks, lamps and
and global-food restaurant has the most in- other objects from recycled cans.
teresting film selection in town, including
recent Hollywood flicks and world cinema. GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
SHOPPING Léopold Sédar Senghor International Airport
Dakar has several markets that are worth is in Yoff. Information on flights between
exploring. Marché Sandaga (Map p686) in the Dakar and international or regional destin-
centre is the largest, busiest and most central ations are given on p830. Within Senegal,
market (also the one at which you’re most Dakar is connected to Saint-Louis, Cap Skir-
likely to have your purse stolen). There’s lit- ing, Ziguinchor and Tambacounda, though
tle you won’t find here, and eager traders will some upcountry airports are only served sea-
even try to satisfy your most extraordinary sonally. See p743 for further information.
requests. In Médina, Marché de Tilène sells For international and regional flight details,
mainly fruits, vegetables, and daily objects inquiries, reconfirmations and reservations
for local households, and has a great ambi- and airline offices in Dakar see p742.
ence. The artisanal market of Soumbédioune
(Map p693), on Route de la Corniche-Ouest, Boat
is one of the most popular places for buy- The excellent ferry boat Wilis (brand new in
ing wood carvings, metal work and batiks. 2005) travels between Dakar and Ziguinchor
It’s squarely aimed at tourists, so prepare twice weekly in each direction. See p730.
for some serious bargaining. The fabulous
Marché des HLM (Map p693) is the best place Car Mouride
to buy African fabrics. Hundreds of rolls of This bus service financed by the Mouride
wax bazin (dyed cloth that’s beaten to shine), brotherhood offers a fairly reliable, though
vibrant prints, embroidered cloth, lace and slow and uncomfortable connection to
silk lend colour to the ramshackle stalls and major towns in Senegal.
dusty streets of this popular quartier. You book your seat ahead of travel, best
Dakar isn’t really the place for a relaxed in person, at Gare Routière Pompiers (Map p684;
shopping stroll. Still, there are a few places %821 8585). Buses leave from the petrol sta-
worth venturing into town for. The Institut tion near there.
Français (p685) is one of Senegal’s major out-
lets of the Maam Samba label, which stands Sept-Place Taxi & Minibus
for locally made, fair-trade clothes made Most Ndiaga Ndiayes (large two-seater
from rich, stunningly coloured cottons. buses) and sept-place (seven-seater) taxis
The spacious Cocktail du Sénégal (Map p686; for long-distance destinations leave from
%823 5315; 108 Rue Moussé Diop) also has a good Gare Routière Pompiers (Map p684) at the
selection of gift items. junction between the autoroute and Ave
For quality African art and craftwork, Malick Sy. It’s best to get there early. The
try Galerie Antenna (Map p686; %822 1751; 9 Rue only chance to avoid Dakar gridlock is by
SENEGAL

Félix Faure) near the Sofitel. The ‘Moroccan getting out of town before 7.30am.
mile’ on Rue Mohamed V, between Ave
Pompidou and Rue Assane Ndoye, has a Train
line of small shops with masks, carvings At the time of writing, only one of Sene-
and other objects from all over West and gal’s train routes was working – the train
Central Africa. from Dakar to Bamako (Mali) via Thiès,
www.lonelyplanet.com D A K A R • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 695

Car
PUBLIC TRANSPORT FROM DAKAR The major self-drive car-hire agencies in
Note that these prices (CFA) are indications Dakar:
only, you may encounter minor variations, Avis (Map p693; %849 7757; www.cfaogroup.com) At
luggage charges, and increases due to the the airport and the Hôtel Meridien President.
rising cost of petrol. Budget (Map p684; %822 2513; cnr Ave du President
Lamine Guèye & Ave Faidherbe) Agencies at the airport and
Destination Sept- Minibus Ndiaga the Hôtel Meridien President.
Place Ndiaye Hertz (Map p686; %820 1174; www.hertz.sn; Rue
Gomis) Also at the airport.
Bakel 11,500 9500 9000
Karang 5500 4500 3500 Independent car-hire companies include
(The Gambia) the following:
Kaolack 2600 1650 1350 Afrique Location (Map p686; %823 8801; 28 Rue
Mbour 1300 950 870 Assane Ndoye)
Rosso 5100 3880 3440 Dakar Location (Map p686; %823 8610; 7 Rue de
Saint-Louis 3500 2600 2200 Thiong)
Tambacounda 7500 6000 5000 Noprola (Map p686; %821 7311; 29 Rue Assane Ndoye)
Thiès 1200 900 800 Senecartours (Map p686; %889 7777; www.senecar
Touba 3200 1900 1500 tours.sn; 64 Rue Carnot)
Ziguinchor 7500 6000 5000
Car Rapide
These colourfully decorated, blue-and-
Diourbel and Tambacounda. The service is yellow minibuses are Dakar’s identity sym-
unreliable and derailments are frequent. If bols, and while travelling in those pretty
you’re keen on the adventure, check out the (though battered) vehicles is certainly
latest situation at Dakar’s train station. For an experience, their circuits are hard to
details on the train to Bamako, see p743. understand if you don’t know the city well.
Destinations aren’t marked, and the assist-
GETTING AROUND ants perched dangerously on the back shout
To/From the Airport directions so fast, that untrained ears won’t
The journey from the airport to town is understand a thing. When you want to get
the only one with a fixed rate (CFA3000), off, just tap a coin on the roof. Journeys cost
though prices may well have risen by the between CFA50 and CFA100.
time you read this. If you want to save a
couple of hundred CFA, you can walk from Ndiaga Ndiaye
the airport out onto the main road and flag These privately owned, white 30-seater
down a taxi there. minibuses (most of them have ‘Alham-
doulilai’ written across the front) roughly
Bus follow the same routes as the DDD buses.
Dakar’s DDD bus service is surprisingly Fares are between CFA100 and CFA150 de-
good. DDD stands for Dakar Dem Dikk pending on the length of your trip. Destin-
(meaning Dakar going and returning), ations and routes are not marked, so you’ll
and the large, blue DDD buses do go and have to ask or listen for the call from the
come back with astonishing regularity. apprentice.
They have fixed stops and go about every
10 minutes. Short distances cost CFA150, Senbus
longer ones CFA175, CFA200 or CFA250. These white minibuses are assembled in
Prices conform to a system of zones. You Senegal. They were newly introduced in
SENEGAL

simply pay your ticket at the conductor’s 2006 and are eventually supposed to re-
booth. You can view the full network, place the cars rapides. They are a lot more
complete with maps and prices on www comfortable, and infinitely more user-
.demdikk.com. The main DDD terminal friendly with clearly marked destinations
in Central Dakar is near the port, on Blvd and fixed stops. Rates are the same as cars
de la Libération. rapides.
 Île de Gorée
696 G R E AT E R D A K A R & C A P V E R T P E N I N S U L A • • Î l e d e G o r é e www.lonelyplanet.com

Taxi The island’s most famous building is La

Going by taxi is the easiest way to get around Maison des Esclaves (admission CFA500; h10.30am-
Dakar. Taxis are equipped with dusty old noon & 2.30-6pm Tue-Sun). No trip to the island
meters, but it’s been years since any of is complete without a visit to this 1786
them worked, so fares need to be negoti- Dutch construction (see opposite), whose
ated. For a short ride across the city centre, arched staircase opening to the ocean has
the fare should be around CFA500. Place become a symbolic image of the horrors
de l’Indépendance to Gare Routière Pomp- of slavery.
iers is around CFA750, and Dakar Centre
to Point E around CFA1000. At night and ÎLE DE GORÉE
on public holidays rates go up. 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles

GREATER DAKAR &

A B
INFORMATION

CAP VERT PENINSULA

Espace Multimedia.............1 B4
1 Post Office........................2 A3
Syndicat d'Initiative............3 B4

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Once a busy harbour on the tip of the Cap IFAN Historical Museum....4 A3
La Maison des Esclaves......5 B4
Vert Peninsula, Dakar city is gradually claw- Mosque.............................6 A4
ing its way up this tongue of land, turning Musée de la Femme...........7 B4
Musée Maritime................8 A3
the area into a bustling centre of activity. Still St Charles Borromee
the areas of Yoff and N’Gor, adorned with Church...........................9 B4

wide beaches, and the tranquil Île de Gorée SLEEPING

just off the coast of Dakar are places to head 2 Auberge Keur Beer..........10 B4
Hostellerie du Chevalier
for a breather, in case Central Dakar’s re- de Boufflers..................11 A3
lentless urban buzz gets too much. EATING
Ann Sabran.....................12 A3
ÎLE DE GORÉE

ὈὈ
To Dakar (4km)
The historical Île de Gorée is enveloped by
an almost eerie calm. There are no sealed Fort
d'Estrées Tacoma
roads and no cars on this island, just nar- 4
Shipwreck

row alleyways with trailing bougainvillea

ent

and colonial brick buildings with wrought- 3

rnm

2 12
iron balconies. But Gorée’s calm is not so
ove

ὈὈ
Ferry Jetty
du G

much romantic as meditative, as the an- 8

11
Bars &
Rue

cient buildings bear witness to the island’s Ru Restaurants

ed
role in the Atlantic slave trade. eP
or
t
Hôtel 10
de Ville Tourist
Information Market
3 5
Gorée is tiny, and can easily be explored in- 1 Public
Gardens
dependently, though the Syndicat d’Initiative 7

(%823 9177; Rue du Port; h9am-1pm & 2.30-5pm Tue- 4

9
Sun) can arrange guides. For some quick,
on-the-spot information, try the small tour- Steps
ist booth near the police station. This is 6
also where you’ll have to pay your CFA500
tourist tax – an obligatory payment for all
non-Senegalese visitors. Gorée has a post Castel

office and an Internet café Espace Multimedia

SENEGAL

(per hr CFA500; h10am-1pm & 3-10pm).

5
Sights
There’s plenty to see on the island, just don’t
come on a Monday, when all museums and
historical buildings are closed.
www.lonelyplanet.com G R E AT E R D A K A R & C A P V E R T P E N I N S U L A • • Î l e d e l a M a d e l e i n e 697

The Castel at the southern tip of the island Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers (%822
was erected in the 17th century, with other 5364; www.boufflers.com; r from CFA18,000) Best
fortifications, including massive WWII known for its terrace restaurant overlook-
guns, added over time. You get excellent ing the harbour, this place has several
views over the island from the top of the rooms spread across a whole block. Prices
rocky plateaus. vary depending on the view and floor – the
Gorée’s 1830 St Charles Borromee Church is best are the enormous rooms upstairs that
usually open to visitors, and the mosque. sleep up to five.
built slightly later in 1892, is one of the For food, try the two hotels, or any of
oldest stone mosques in Senegal. the stretch of restaurants opposite the ferry
The IFAN Historical Museum (admission CFA200; jetty. Near the post office, Ann Sabran (%826
h10am-1pm & 2.30-6pm Tue-Sat) in the ancient 9429; dishes around CFA2500) is a cosy, portside
French Fort d’Estrées (1850) has interesting restaurant serving simple meals.
exhibits portraying Senegalese history up to
the present day. The permanent exhibition at Getting There & Away
the Musée de la Femme (admission CFA500; h10am- A ferry (%24hr infoline 628 1111, 849 7961) runs
5pm Tue-Sun), dedicated to the role of Senegalese regularly from the wharf in Dakar to Gorée
women throughout history, really comes to (CFA5000 return for nonresidents, 20 min-
life in the explanations by the enthusiastic utes). See p744 for the timetable.
museum guide (CFA350). The Musée Mari-
time (admission CFA500; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) in an ÎLE DE LA MADELEINE
18th-century West Indies Company build- Île de la Madeleine is west of Dakar, about
ing, isn’t quite as interesting. 4km off the mainland. It was declared a na-
tional park in 1985, and consists of a main
Sleeping & Eating island (Sarpan), two other islets, plus several
Auberge Keur Beer (%/fax 821 3801; keurbeergie@ lumps of volcanic rock. The island is not
yahoo.fr; s/d CFA20,000/25,000) Gorée’s most popu- inhabited, which makes its nature so much
lar place has pristine rooms. Management more interesting. Sarpan’s dwarf baobab
is full of useful info, and can even arrange trees are worth looking at, and with a bit
accommodation in private homes, should of luck you might spot dolphins or turtles.
the place be full. The best thing to do here is bird-watching.

LA MAISON DES ESCLAVES

Île de Gorée was a busy trading centre during the 18th and 19th centuries, and many merchants
built houses in which they would live or work in the upper storey and store their wares on the
lower floor. La Maison des Esclaves is one of the last remaining 18th-century buildings of this
type on Gorée. It was built in 1786 and renovated in 1990 with French assistance. With its famous
doorway opening directly from the storeroom onto the sea, this building has enormous spiritual
significance for some visitors, particularly African-Americans whose ancestors were brought from
Africa as slaves.
Walking around the dimly lit dungeons, particularly after a visit to the historical museum, you
will begin to imagine the suffering of the people held here, reinforced by the gruesome details
provided by the curator. La Maison des Esclaves is an significant symbol and reminder of the hor-
rors of the slave trade. Although an important slaving culture existed in Gorée, the island’s role
as a major slave-shipment point is sometimes overstated. Of the 20 million slaves that were taken
from Africa, only 300 per year may have gone through Gorée, and even then, the famous doorway
would not have been used – a ship could not get near the dangerous rocks and the town had a
jetty a short distance away.
SENEGAL

But the number of slaves transported from here isn’t necessarily what matters in the debate
around Gorée. The island, and particularly La Maison des Esclaves, stands as a terrible reminder
of the immense suffering inflicted on African people through the Atlantic slave trade.

Written with assistance from Chris de Wilde (specialist in 19th-century West African history)
 698 G R E AT E R D A K A R & C A P V E R T P E N I N S U L A • • N ’ G o r & Le s A l m a d i e s www.lonelyplanet.com

If small trees and big birds don’t make your 0974) and the Senat (Map p693; %869 6969) at
heart beat faster, you can also come here for the Hôtel Meridien President.
some snorkelling, diving or swimming in a
natural pool. Pointe des Almadies
Pirogues go from the National Park Office This understated cape is the quartier’s live-
(Mr Seck or Mr Mbaye; %821 8182) on Route de la liest spot, framed by several restaurants and
Corniche-Ouest, just a few metres north of a shabby artisanal market.
Casino Terrou-Bi. A park ranger will organ- Opposite the Club Med the palatial Hôtel
ise your trip (admission adult/child under Meridien President (Map p693; %869 6969; www
10 CFA1000/free; pirogue CFA3000, 20 .lemeridien-dakar.com; r from CFA90,000) overlooks
minutes). Groups from three to 10 people the Pointe des Almadies. It’s undeniably the
get CFA1000 discount per person. finest hotel in and around Dakar, and has
every facility (including its own golf club
N’GOR & LES ALMADIES and heliport) and prices to match.
Les Almadies is a plush Dakar neighbour- The bustling community of small restau-
hood where the polished villas of Senegal’s rants huddled together at the point stands
richest look out onto private beaches. It’s in complete contrast to such refined luxury.
also home to a string of lively bars and res- La Pointe des Almadies (Map p693; %820 0140; mains
taurants and culminates in the Pointe des about CFA3500; hTue-Sun) is an enduring institu-
Almadies, West Africa’s westernmost spot. tion, with good food, including Vietnamese
specialities, in a wide garden setting. For
Route des Almadies & Route de N’Gor ambience, La Crêpe Bretonne (Map p693; crêpes
This northern continuation of Ave Cheikh from CFA1500) is unbeatable on Sundays, when
Anta Diop is the area’s lifeline. It’s lined Dakar’s youth comes out to play.
with several restaurants, and the major
banks, which have ATMs. N’Gor
East of the point, the sheltered Plage N’Gor
SLEEPING & EATING (N’Gor Beach) smacks of carefree beach-
La Detente (Map p693; %820 3975; contact@hotel tourism. The Hôtel N’Gor Diarama (Map p693;
-ladentente.com; s/d from CFA39,000/47,000) has large %820 1005; fax 820 2723; r CFA45,000) is the mono-
rooms overlooking a pretty garden, while lith on the headland to the east. A touch
Le Lodge des Almadies (Map p693; %869 0345; more informal is La Madrague (Map p693;
[email protected]; r CFA35,000) is a personal- %820 0364; s/d CFA28,000/36,000; s), one of the
ised hotel with tasteful rooms, bathrooms nicest places to stay on Plage N’Gor, and La
in which to enjoy a luxurious shower, and Brazzerade (Map p693; %820 0364; www.labrazzerade
one of Dakar’s best restaurants to boot. .com; d/ste CFA20,000/35,000; ai) a cosy, afford-
able, sea-view hotel with a great grill restau-
ENTERTAINMENT rant. Seafood lovers mustn’t miss a dinner
At the trendy Koch.B (Map p693; %820 8671; at the Cabane des Pêcheurs (Map p693; %820 76
www.kochb.com; Route des Almadies; h noon-3am), 75; Plage de Ngor, meals around CFA5000-10,000), where
Dakar’s in-set chills to live music in comfy freshly caught and heavenly spiced fish is
armchairs. Across the road, the Blue Note served with real fishermen’s insight.
(Map p693; Route des Almadies), with its myriad bar A short pirogue ride away, Île de Ngor with
spaces, is also great for concerts. its pretty beaches is popular with day-trippers
Hidden in the quartier is the fabulous on weekends. Chez Carla (Map p693; %820 1586; d
Alma City (Map p693; %820 2410). The complex with/without breakfast CFA20,000/15,000) is a friendly
houses a tiny restaurant, as well as a re- place to stay, with cosy rooms and fine Ital-
cording studio and concert space. The airy, ian food (dishes about CFA3000).
brightly decorated bar-restaurant Aquarela
SENEGAL

do Brazil (Map p693; %536 17 70) follows the Bra- Getting There & Away
zilian theme to perfection from the caipir- To reach Pointe des Almadies or N’Gor,
inhas (cocktails) and the mouthwatering you could catch bus 8 from central Dakar
menu to the samba music. out towards the airport, and take a taxi
Clubbers are well catered for with the from there for about CFA700. A taxi from
popular Casino du Cap Vert (Map p693; %820 central Dakar will cost about CFA2000.
www.lonelyplanet.com G R E AT E R D A K A R & C A P V E R T P E N I N S U L A • • Y o f f 699

YOFF in a downtown brothel/hotel. The restau-

The fishing town of Yoff has a completely rant features changing displays of quality
different feel. The local residents are almost contemporary art and opens onto a small
exclusively Lebu, renowned fishermen who beach, perfect for a sunset drink. Plus, man-
have inhabited this area for many centuries agement are friendly and know their way
and retain a vital spirit of independence. around the country.
The town itself is self-administering, with Via Via (Map p693; %820 5475; [email protected];
no government officials, no police force Route des Cimetières; s/d incl breakfast CFA9600/17,200)
and, apparently, no crime. In fact, it was This backpackers’ favourite at the eastern
regarded as a separate state by the French end of Yoff has been consistently friendly,
colonial authorities before Senegal itself be- clean and welcoming for years. It also has
came independent. djembe drumming courses on offer.
The Lebu of Yoff are nearly all members La Terrasse d’Anvers (Map p693; %688 0000; Yoff
of the Layen, one of the brotherhoods that Virage) The name evokes Belgium, and beer
dominate life in Senegal. The founder of drinkers rejoice, this is indeed Dakar’s most
the brotherhood, Saidi Limamou Laye, is reliable address for Belgian brew, as well as
buried in the Layen Mausoleum (Map p693), an excellent restaurant.
a gleaming white building topped with a
green onion-shaped dome, on the beach at Getting There & Away
the eastern end of town. Yoff is near the airport, and is most eas-
About 1km north from the mausoleum ily reached from there by taxi (around
is the main fishing beach, where large CFA1500). From Dakar’s city centre, a taxi
pirogues are launched onto giant rollers to Yoff should cost around CFA2000. By
and the day’s catch is sold straight on the public transport, take DDD bus 8.
sand. Even if the waves weren’t so danger-
ously large, and even if the beach wasn’t LAC ROSE
covered in the town’s rubbish, this is no Lac Rose, also known as Lac Retba, is a shal-
place for swimming or sunbathing: skimpy low lagoon surrounded by dunes, mainly
clothing isn’t inappropriate in the close- famous for being the final destination of
knit Muslim community. Forget about ‘en- the annual Dakar Rally.
tertainment’, too – there are no clubs or Water here is 10 times saltier than the
bars in Yoff Village, private drunkenness is ocean, and the high concentration of min-
frowned upon and smoking is prohibited. erals causes the lake to shimmer in a pink
This is a place to come and wander around light when the sun is high. The spectacle isn’t
respectfully – dressed appropriately in long always visible, best chances are in the dry
skirts or trousers. season, but even if nature lets you down, you
can still swim here, buoyed by the salt. On
Sights & Activities the southern side of the lake, the small-scale
Yoff village life and the impressive Layen salt-collecting industry is worth a glimpse.
Mausoleum hold plenty of interest, though The lake makes for an enjoyable day trip
arts fans shouldn’t miss a trip to the fabu- from Dakar, but the Dead Sea it ain’t, what-
lous Village des Arts (Map p693; Route de l’Aeroport), ever the tour operators try to tell you. The
squeezed between the Route VDN and the saleability of the faint hue together with
national stadium. Though slightly neglected, the rally have caused the development of a
this is still a bubble of creativity, housing the massive tourist industry on the edges of the
ateliers (workshops) of some of Senegal’s lake – be prepared for hassle.
finest artists, including the sculptor Alpha Most of the hotels listed organise ac-
Sow, painter Kebé and Moussa Mbaye. tivities for similar prices (rates listed are
approximate). They include 4WD tours
SENEGAL

Sleeping & Eating around the lake (CFA15,000), beach-buggy

Hôtel Cap Ouest (Map p693; %820 2469; capouest@arc tours (CFA25,000) and camel riding (per
.sn; s/d CFA16,000/19,000) This cute place at Yoff hour CFA15,000). Chevaux du Lac (%630 0241)
Virage is possibly the best value on the offers horse riding (CFA6000/400,000 for
whole peninsula. You can get a large, nicely two hours/six days) for beginners to ad-
furnished room here for the price of one vanced riders.
 Cap Vert Peninsula
700 GREATER DAKAR & CAP VERT PENINSULA •• Rufisque www.lonelyplanet.com

0 10 km
CAP VERT PENINSULA 0 6 miles
Kayar
Auberge
de l'Océan

ὅὅ
Bleu

ὅὅὅὅ
Ma Petite Camargue
ATLANTIC Bonaba Café Bayakh To Mboro-
Ker Djinné Lac Rose sur-Mer
OCEAN

ὅὅ
Chez Salim Niaga-Peul (85km)

Niaga Keur Moussa

Malika Monastery
Lac Sangalkam
Chirouaye Keur Massar
Île de Yoff

kh
Cambérène
Île de N'Gor Yoff

ya
Plage de Yoff

Ba
N'Gor Route de N3 To Thiès

e
Ru

ed
Pointe des Thiaroye- (35km)
squ

fi

ut
sur-Mer

ὅὅ
Almadies M'bao e

Ro
Pointe de Diam Niadia
Bel-Air M'bao Rufisque
Lighthouse Gou Ndao
Mamelles

ὅὅ
Plage de la Voile d'Or Bargny
N2
Île de la DAKAR Île de Gorée
Madeleine
To Mbour
(50km)
See Greater Dakar Map (p693)
Toubab Dialao

Sleeping & Eating Getting There & Away

The cluster of hotels on the lake get busy Trying to get here by public transport
with busloads of tourist groups, and the is near impossible, involving a journey
artisanal village that’s developed can be a by Ndiaga Ndiaye (CFA200), car rapide
hassle to get through. There are slightly (CFA200) or DDD bus 11 to Keur Mas-
more secluded options near the salt village sar, from there a trip by taxi (CFA1000) or
and at the opposite side of the lake. minibus (CFA100) to the village Niaga Peul,
Bonaba Café (%638 7538; r per person CFA5000; then a 5km walk to the lake.
s) Hidden away on the far side of the lake, Don’t do it, hire a taxi (round trip with an
this has been a favourite with independ- afternoon waiting time around CFA20,000)
ent travellers for years. Rooms are simple or join an organised excursion from Dakar
and bathrooms shared, and the dunes in- (see p685).
vite walks and provide shelter from the
more touristy zones. You get here either by RUFISQUE
walking 2km from the main hotel cluster Rufisque was one of the first and most im-
through the dunes, or by pirogue from the portant French settlements during colonial
salt village (CFA3000 to CFA5000). days, and the crumbling buildings along the
Ker Djinné (%634 0468; d CFA20,000; s) The transit town’s dusty main road still tell the
prettiest of the touristy places, this open- story of a former glory. It’s worth stopping
spaced campement has round-hut accom- here for an hour or so, checking out the
modation and a recommended restaurant architecture and perhaps taking a ride on a
where a griot usually strums his kora. horse cart, Rufisque’s main mode of public
Chez Salim (%638 1019; d/tr CFA20,000/25,000; transport. Otherwise do as the locals do –
pas) This large campement is one of pass through.
the more upmarket, with accommodation If you want to spend the night, the cosy
in comfortable huts. l’Oustal de l’Agenais (%836 1648; r from CFA11,000)
Ma Petite Camargue (%511 2745; s/d CFA15,000/ is a good option with clean, comfort-
20,000) This cutesy campement on the road able rooms, a cosy restaurant and friendly
to Bombilor is a relaxing distance from the management.
SENEGAL

tourist hub. Accommodation is basic, with Rufisque is on the main road out of Dakar
shared bathrooms. The French couple that and there’s plenty of transport, including
manages this place had just taken over Le DDD bus 15, frequent Ndiaga Ndiaye and
Jardin du Lac in Niaga Peul, and there’s little cars rapides. The road is notoriously con-
doubt they’ll turn it from a run-down shell gested, so the trip can take up to two hours
into a stylish hotel-restaurant in no time. during rush hour.
www.lonelyplanet.com P E T I T E C Ô T E • • T o u b a b D i a l a o 701

KEUR MOUSSA MONASTERY spill over its boundaries. If you like your
The Keur Moussa Monastery, situated south- holiday more low-key and your beach-body
east of Lac Rose and 50km from Dakar on the slightly less exposed, the villages Toubab
road to Kayar, is a great place to spend a re- Dialao, Popenguine and La Somone in the
flective Sunday. The 10am mass is famous for north, as well as Mbodiène, Nianing and
its unique music – a stunning mixture of Af- Joal-Fadiout in the south have white strands
rican music and Gregorian chants in Wolof. that still swing to the local rhythm.
The monks sell CDs (CFA10,000) after the
service, as well as homemade goat’s cheese, TOUBAB DIALAO
prayer books and other various items. If you The calm fishing village Toubab Dialao
can’t make it to the monastery, you can try is an excellent hideout from the bustle of
Dakar’s bookshops for copies of the CDs. Dakar – a great place for walking, swim-
Take bus 15 to Rufisque and change for a ming and horse riding. Les Cavaliers de la
minibus to Bayakh or Kayar (CFA100). Tell Savane (%836 7876) offers guided tours on
the driver where you’re headed, and he’ll horseback (CFA10,000 for two hours).
drop you off at a junction, from where it’s Perched on a cliff, the seashell-decorated
a 1.5km walk to the monastery. It’s sign- Sobo-Bade (%/fax 836 0356; www.espacesobobade
posted and all the drivers know it. Alterna- .com; dm per person CFA4000, s/d from CFA10,000/12,000)
tively, a taxi from Dakar should be around is something of a classic on the backpack-
CFA15,000, including waiting time. er’s scene, and the hub of much activity
in the village. Its design has inspired two
KAYAR other places: La Source Ndiambalane (%836
The pretty fishing village Kayar marks the 1703; [email protected]; d/tr CFA12,000/15,000)
point where the coast swings north – the be- and Auberge La Mimosa (% /fax 826 7326;
ginning of Senegal’s Grand Côte. It is framed [email protected]; d CFA10,000, a), which has
by a wide sand strand, where the whole cycle an Internet café.
of a fisherman’s day can be observed, from The grandest place in town is the Iris
the rolling out to sea, to the homecoming, Hotel (%836 2969; www.irishotel.net; s/d with half
emptying of the nets and gutting of fish. board CFA35,000/58,000; ais), a luxurious
The northern beaches aren’t really recom- address with tastefully decorated rooms
mended for swimming – undertows are very and a spectacular sea-view terrace. A rough
strong. But the coastline makes an impressive and muddy dirt track out of town, La Pierre
sight, and is a great place to relax. Pirogue de Lisse (% 957 7148; [email protected]; s/d
trips, as well as walks to the sand dune be- CFA20,000/30,000; s) is a welcoming place,
hind the village fill a day nicely, and watching run by the friendly and knowledgeable Bab
pirogue makers at work is fascinating. Kayar Mbengue.
isn’t far from Lac Rose, and the two destin- To get here from Dakar, take any trans-
ations can be combined in a weekend trip. port headed for Mbour and get off at the
The Auberge de l’Océan Bleu (%953 5058, 507 Diam Niadia junction. Minibuses run
91 25; r CFA7000-10,000) is a relaxed, simple, solar- from here to Toubab Dialao (CFA300).
powered place right behind the beach (you A taxi from Dakar should cost around
can’t drive here). Manager David can arrange CFA15,000.
excursions around the country, and also had
a great plan to create a pirogue shuttle service RÉSERVE DE BANDIA
between the airport at Yoff and Kayar. Phone This small wildlife reserve (%685 5886; adult/
to ask if that’s already been implemented. child CFA7000/3500; h8am-6pm) sits 65km from
Dakar on the road to Mbour, about 5km

PETITE CÔTE south of Sindia. The impressively well-

managed reserve is crowded with wildlife,
SENEGAL

including colobus monkeys, crocodiles and

South of Dakar, the Petite Côte is where other species indigenous to Senegal, as well
Senegal greets the Atlantic with 70km as rhinos, giraffes, buffaloes, ostriches and
kilometres of sandy coast. Safe swimming other animals more at home in East Africa.
beaches attract large numbers of tourists, In that sense, it’s more of a zoo, but an
and cause the flashy holiday village Saly to amazingly beautiful one, with not a cage
 Petite Côte & Siné-Saloum Delta
702 P E T I T E C Ô T E • • P o p e n g u i n e www.lonelyplanet.com

in sight. And unlike in the national parks, here, and the food is good, too (dishes
you’re almost guaranteed animal sightings. around CFA4000 to CFA6000).
For those more interested in human trad- Across the Dakar–Mbour main road
ition than beasts, the Serer burial mounds lies the fantastic Accrobaobab (Xavier Larcher;
and giant baobab, once used to bury griots, % 637 1428; www.accro-baobab.com; adult/child
may be an enticement to visit. CFA15,000/10,000), where you can climb, glide,
Walking isn’t allowed here, but you can and clamber your way around mighty
enter with your own car or taxi. During baobab trees – all with safety nets and
or shortly after the wet season you may trained staff to watch out. Great fun.

ὈὈ
have to hire one of the reserve’s own 4WDs
(CFA30,000), as many routes will be im- POPENGUINE
passable for smaller vehicles. Tours take This tranquil, friendly village is famous for
two to three hours. its annual Pentecostal pilgrimage (check
Even if you don’t want to visit the park, www.sanctuaire-poponguine.sn for details
the fantastic restaurant, overlooking a pond on the annual event) and a modern church

ὈὈ
is worth a visit. You can normally spot buf- that commemorates the apparition of the
falos, monkeys, birds and crocodiles from black Madonna in 1986.

ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
0 20 km
PETITE CÔTE & SINÉ-SALOUM DELTA 0 12 miles

ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
To Dakar
(60km) Réserve
Toubab Dialao Sindia de Bandia

ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅ
Fissel
Accrobaobab Ndiaganiao
Popenguine
Nguekokh
Djilakh

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅ
La Somone N2 Diohine
Niakhar
Ngaparou
See Inset

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Diakhao
Saly-Niakhniakhale Tataguine
Tiadiaye
Saly-Portugal Sandiara
Mbour

ὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ

Ὀ
Ndiosomone
Warang
N2 Fatick

ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Nianing
Loul Séssène
Ndiamane r
ve
Ri

ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅ
Pointe-Sarène Nguéniene
Gandiaye To
Mbodiène Faoye

ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅ
Kaolack
ATLANTIC N2 (7km)

ὈὈ Ὀ
né

Ngazobil Diofior
Si

Saloum

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅ
OCEAN ver
Ri
Joal-Fadiout Fimela Simal Dakhonga
Sambadia Gîte

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅ ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
de Simal
0 14 km Kayar Foundiougne
0 8 miles Car Ferry
Ndangane Djilor

ὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅ ὅὅὅ
To
Lake Retba Kaolack
Mar Lodj (9km)
Bayakh Félane
Palmarin

ὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ
ὅὅὅ
Niaga Keur ver
Moussa
Ri
um Djirnda Passi
lo
Sangalkam Sa Île de

ὅὅ
ὅ
ὅὅὅ
ὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ
ὅὅὅ
Guissanor Siné-Saloum Delta
Djifer Bassoul
Diam Falia
Rufisque Niadia Forêt des Îles

ὅὅ
ὅὅ
ὅ ὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅ
Delta Dionewar du Saloum Sokone
Niominka
Bargny To Mbour
Niodior r
ve Marine

ὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅ
Pointe de Île de Ri Protégéé
Yène Diass Sangomar Guior de Bamboung
s

Ndramé
bo

Toubakouta

ὅὅὅὅ
Toubab
Escale
om

Dialao Forêt des Îles

Pointe
Di

Bétanti Keur Bamboung

SENEGAL

La Pierre de Lisse Jackonsa

Ndayane Ngayène
r
Rive

ὅὅὅὅ
Popenguine Track Tiebo
Parc National
du Delta du Santhiou el Haji Koular
Réserve de
Popenguine Saloum Gîte de Bandiala

ὅὅὅὅ
a
ial Missirah
La Somone nd
Réserve de Ba Forêt de THE GAMBIA
Joins Main Map La Somone Fathala
Île des Oiseaux To Banjul (22km)
Karang
www.lonelyplanet.com P E T I T E C Ô T E • • L a S o m o n e 703

THE RESERVES OF POPENGUINE AND LA SOMONE

Less known than Senegal’s large national parks, these two tiny reserves are home to some
150 different species of birds. The Réserve de Popenguine was declared a protected zone in
1986, after the blue rock-thrush was spotted here. Excursions to see this, and plenty of other
species, can be organised by the Campement Keur Cupaam, whose women’s collective looks
after the reserve, and also has resident ornithological guides from the National Parks Authority.
The adjacent Réserve de La Somone is very different in character. It was created by the local
community in 1999, and is maintained independently. The park headquarters is situated at the
edge of the reserve (ask locals to show you the way there), but for guided bird-watching tours
you are better off booking a combined tour at Popenguine, which has the better trained staff.
The protected zone of La Somone contains a stunning lagoon, where pelicans and flamingos are
the most prominent feathered residents, though with a bit of patience, you’ll spot rarer species,
too. At Popenguine, you’ll pay CFA5000 for a ½-day tour around both reserves.

Bird-watchers love it for its small nature Canda (%958 5054; [email protected]; d CFA18,500;
reserve, and the adjacent community reserve as) The nicest place – a small family-
of La Somone – a beautiful lagoon. More style hotel with pretty rooms and Belgian
than 150 species of birds can be spotted beer on the menu.
in the two protected areas. The Campement Hôtel Sorong (%958 5175; www.sorong.sn; s/d
Ker Cupaam (%956 4951; dm CFA5000,d CFA12,000) CFA21,000/30,000; as) A low-key hotel with
sits right at the edge of the reserve, and the a good restaurant.
boisterous women’s cooperative that runs it Le Phoenix (% 957 7517; www.phenix-senegal
also organises recommended ornithological .sn; villa CFA40,000) Has gleaming, spacious
tours. Across the road, Keur de Sable (%957 villas on the beach that accommodate
71 64; s/d CFA7500/12,000, house CFA20,000) is a won- whole families.
derfully welcoming hotel, restaurant and Le Bassari (% 957 7464; d/tr/q CFA17,000/
cultural centre. The beach, where you find 25,000/34,000) A low-key, beach-view campe-
the small restaurant L’écho-Côtier (%637 8772; ment packed with masks and artefacts.
meals CFA5000) lies a few stone steps further Africa Queen (%957 7435; www.africaqueen.com;
down. A short walk along the wave-kissed d CFA25,000; as) An unremarkable resort
shore takes you back to the village proper, hotel catering mainly for groups.
and the rustic beach bar Chez Ginette (%957 Club Baobab (%957 7402; [email protected]) A
7110; hWed-Mon). luxurious option that only accepts inde-
From Dakar, head for Mbour and get off pendent travellers in the low season. In-
at Sindia, from where infrequent bush taxis quire for individual rates.
run to Popenguine for CFA300. A recommended restaurant outside the
hotels is the cute Café Creole (%958 5191; dishes
LA SOMONE around CFA2500-3000), near the junction between
Eighty kilometres from Dakar, La Somone Ngaparou and La Somone – the place for
is the gentle medium between the mass tasty Senegalese and European cuisine, with
tourism of Saly-Portugal and the village live music on Thursday evenings.
intimacy of Toubab Dialao. The town sits
right on a stunning lagoon, whose extra- Getting There & Away
ordinary landscape and rich bird life are To get to La Somone, take a Mbour-bound
protected (see above). taxi, get off at Nguékokh where taxis leave
for Ngaparou and La Somone (CFA300).
Sleeping & Eating
SENEGAL

La Somone has several good accommoda- SALY

tion choices – this is only a tiny selection The French call Saly Senegal’s ‘Cote d’Azur’,
of what’s on offer. All of the places listed and they’re not far off. Once here it’s easy
are along the main road that leads to the to forget that you’re in Africa. This is the
beach and the lagoon – Club Baobab sits sort of coastal holiday destination found
right next to the lagoon. all over the world: palm-lined beaches,
 704 P E T I T E C Ô T E • • M b o u r www.lonelyplanet.com

dozens of big hotels, nightclubs, bars and Le Manguier (Route de la Somone; dishes around
souvenir shops. The main tourist mile is in CFA4000) This tastefully decorated restaurant
Saly-Portugal. The northern part of town, is a gem, both for its excellent international
Saly-Niakhniakhale, is much more local in cuisine, and the pleasant courtyard where
character. giant mango trees watch over a collection
BICIS (%957 3331; Saly Portugal; h3.30-5.30pm of African masks and statues.
Mon, 9am-12.30pm & 3.30-5.30pm Tue-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat) Habana Café (%957 0724; dishes around CFA5000)
and SGBS (%957 37 03; Saly Portugal) have branches Fast becoming one of Saly’s mightiest mag-
in Saly, and there are several Internet cafés. nets, thanks to its beautiful beach spot, excel-
lent service and its delicious French cuisine.
Sleeping Chez Poulo (%659 6331; dishes around CFA1000)
This is a tiny selection of the dozens of ho- A small and informal eatery that is hugely
tels and self-catering apartments in Saly. popular, thanks to its mouthwatering Sen-
Les Bougainvillées (%957 2222; bougainvilleesaly@ egalese and European food.
sentoo.sn; r CFA41,200; ais) With comfort-
able bungalows set in a spacious garden, Getting There & Away
this is prettier than your standard resort A taxi from Mbour is CFA1500.
hotel.
Les Flamboyants (%957 0770; www.hotelsenegal MBOUR
flamboyant.com; s/d from CFA24,600/25,000; as ) Five kilometres south of Saly, Mbour is a
For Saly-Portugal, this is a nicely under- big fishing centre. The town’s 200m-long
stated place. It’s all about wrought iron it fish market on the beach, the colourful dots
seems, from the room furnishings to the of pirogues and the surrounding marine-
tables of the plant-adorned restaurant. related commerce is a sight to behold.
Espadon (%957 1949; fax 957 2000; half board The gare routière (bus station) is near
per person CFA36,600; ais) This smoothly the exit towards Dakar, behind a wide gate.
decorated place provides luxury with an Af- Mbour has a BICIS (%957 1086) with ATM,
rican flavour. The attached fishing centre several Internet cafés and a post office. All
enjoys a good reputation. of those are found in the centre of Mbour,
Lamantin Beach Hotel (%957 0777; www.lelam at the tree-lined alleyway that crosses town.
antin.com; s/d/ste with half board CFA82,000/131,000/ Mbour hospital is on the route towards the
210,000; ais) This five-star establish- beach and Tama Lodge.
ment calls itself paradise on earth, and if
your idea of heaven involves being pampered Sleeping & Eating
in a spa, or relaxing on a private beach, then There are a few places to stay scattered
you’ll probably agree with the hype. around town, all of them south of the fish-
Au Petit Jura (%957 3767; www.aupetitjura.ch; ing market.
d CFA19,500; pais) This pretty retreat Village Petit Eden (%957 4477; www.petit-eden
in a calm corner of Saly-Niakhniakhale has .de; d CFA17,000) Has been a favourite with trav-
spotless huts in a half-circle around a swim- ellers for years, thanks to a leafy garden
ming pool. setting, clean rooms and friendly staff.
La Medina (%957 4993; [email protected]; s/d Le Bounty (%/fax 957 2951; [email protected];
13,000/17,000; a) This Mediterranean-style d CFA9500; a) Near the beach, the Bounty has
place stretches over three floors, surround- rooms stuffed with souvenirs that try hard
ing a lush courtyard. A stunning oasis of to look like apartments.
peace in the heart of Saly village. Hôtel Club Safari (%957 1991; fax 957 3838; s/d incl
breakfast CFA16,000/20,000; as) A few blocks
Eating & Drinking further down from Le Bounty, the seashell-
Saly-Portugal’s restaurant scene leaves you decorated Safari has spacious, comfortable
SENEGAL

spoilt for choice, though many serve simi- rooms set around a pool.
lar fare. The following are among the most Mbëgeel (% 957 5177; www.mbegeel.com; hut/
interesting. ste/house CFA39,500/59,000/98,000; as) A few
El Paséo (Saly junction; meals around CFA5000) For kilometres along the road to Nianing, this
scrumptious Spanish meals head to this ‘handcrafted’ guesthouse is a softly lit,
lively place. mosaic-decorated piece of art.
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E S I N É - S A L O U M D E LTA • • Pa l m a r i n 705

Tama Lodge (%/fax 957 0040; www.tamalodge granaries. The trips make for a great day
.com; s CFA30,000-40,000, d 60,000-80,000) The queen out, but the pirogue owners are a hassle-
of Mbour’s hotels where amazing wooden some lot. You’re better off relying on the
sculptures watch over modern mud-huts. A badge-bearing employees of the Syndicat de
dinner on the beach terrace by candlelight Tourisme. They hover around the bridge,
is a fine night out indeed. or can be found at the Hôtel le Finio.
For cheap, filling and utterly delicious
Senegalese meals, head for Chez Paolo (dishes Sleeping & Eating
from CFA2000) Anyone in town can show you Le Thiouraye (%515 6064; s/d/tr CFA10,000/12,000/
the way there. 14,000) is a relaxed auberge right on the river.
You can leap straight from the brilliant ter-
Getting There & Away race restaurant into a pirogue to Fadiout –
There’s frequent public transport between a useful way to avoid the hustlers near the
Mbour and Dakar (minibus CFA950, sept- bridge. The quirky Relais 114 (%957 6178;
place CFA1300); Mbour to Joal is a little r incl breakfast without/with bathroom CFA7500/10,000)
less regular (minibus CFA600, sept-place is pretty run-down, though the larger-
CFA750). Taxis cost around CFA15,000 than-life owner Mamadou Balde and his
from Dakar to Mbour. performing pelicans give the neglect some
character. The fairly new Hôtel de la Plage
NIANING (%957 6677; [email protected]; d/tr CFA25,000/28,000;
Sleepy Nianing is one of the quieter ps) has bright, large rooms at reason-
places along the coast, perfect if you like able rates, and a good restaurant.
to dip your toes without anyone stepping
on them. Youthful ambience and a spa- Getting There & Away
cious garden make Le Ben’Tenier (%957 1420; A minibus to/from Mbour is CFA600. If
[email protected]; r per person CFA8630) a good you’re heading on down the coast, from
option. The Auberge des Coquillages (%/fax 957 Joal to Palmarin costs CFA1000. A sept-
1428; [email protected]; s/d CFA26,000/28,100; s), place taxi goes directly to Dakar most
however, is much brighter and prettier. Le mornings (without changing at Mbour)
Girafon (%957 5266; s/d CFA10,000/15,000) is a tiny for CFA1800.
campement with a relaxed family feel that
also organises local excursions.
Nianing is on the main road between THE SINÉ-SALOUM
Mbour and Joal and all public transport
stops here. DELTA
JOAL-FADIOUT Some 60km south of Mbour, the Petite Côte
Joal is the birthplace of former president is cut by the mouth of the Saloum River,
Léopold Sédar Senghor, but it’s the town’s and sand strands give way to a maze of
‘twin sister’ Fadiout that attracts the people. mangrove swamps and creeks. This is the
Fadiout sits on an island made entirely of 180,000-hectare zone of the Siné-Saloum
oyster and clam shells, and everything in Delta, with its shimmering flat lands, palm
town is made of shells, from the houses and groves, salt marshes and lagoons, which is
car-free roads to the shared Muslim and one of Senegal’s most beautiful areas.
Christian cemetery. The island is reached
via a long wooden bridge from Joal. PALMARIN
The citizens of Joal and Fadiout are Palmarin is an expansive area encompass-
rightly proud of their religious tolerance. ing four villages that lies 20km south of
Christians and Muslims live in harmony Joal-Fadiout, where the beaches of the Petite
SENEGAL

here, and Fadiout’s impressive church and Côte merge with the labyrinthine creeks of
shrines to the Virgin Mary are comple- the Siné-Saloum Delta. It’s a breathtaking
mented by a large mosque. spot, where dots of bush grass and tall palm
There are plenty of pirogue trips on offer, groves, salty plains and patches of gleaming
taking you to the cemetery, a nearby oys- water line a series of causeways. All places
ter cultivation and a set of stilt-balanced are clearly signposted on the main road.
 706 T H E S I N É - S A L O U M D E LTA • • D j i fe r www.lonelyplanet.com

Sleeping & Eating to the village of Mar Lodj, on a peaceful is-

Palmarin has a seductive choice of beautiful land cut off from the mainland by the delta.
campements. Leading the pack is the original There’s no bank here, but Internet connec-
Lodge des Collines de Niassam (%669 6343; www.nias tions are available at a couple of places.
sam.com; half board per person CFA37,000-57,000; as) Beware of the overeager pirogue-owners
where you can sleep in classy treehouses that on the departure point to Mar Lodj – you’re
cling to the mighty branches of baobabs, or best off arranging your trip through your
sit on stilts in the shallow waters of the delta. campement.
The Yokam (%936 3974; [email protected];
r per person incl breakfast CFA7000) is run by a young Sleeping & Eating
and enthusiastic bunch and has accommo- NDANGANE
dation in comfy straw huts. The red-mud Most of the accommodation and eating op-
bungalows of the Lodge de Diakhamor (%644 tions are located at the end of the road to
9491, 957 1256; www.lesenegal.info; s/d with half board Fimela, which is from where most boat trips
CFA23,000/41,000) are visible from afar. This is depart. Le Barracuda (Chez Mbacke; %658 5794; s/d
a stylish place where pirogue excursions, CFA9000/12,000) is a cheap and cheerful family-
horse riding, bicycle and fishing trips are all run place. Another good choice is the wel-
included in the price. The basic Campement coming La Palangrotte (%949 9321; lapalang@sentoo
Villageois de Sessene (%669 0365; r per person incl .sn; s/d incl breakfast CFA9750/13,000) at the exit of
breakfast CFA6500) is run by the local population. town where 10% of all profits are invested in
If you wish to spend your holiday cash lo- local-development projects. The spacious Les
cally, this is the place to stay. Cordons Bleus (%949 9312; [email protected];
s/d/tr CFA25,000/32,000/42,000; pais) is the
Getting There & Away classiest establishment in town.
Palmarin is most easily reached from Mbour, Good restaurants include Le Petit Paradis
via Joal-Fadiout and Sambadia (where you (dishes from CFA800), Le Tamarko (dishes from CFA3000)
may have to change). The fare from Joal to and Le Baobab (%653 4073; dishes around CFA4000),
Sambadia is CFA500 in a Ndiaga Ndiaye, and all of which serve mainly European food.
from Sambadia to Palmarin it’s CFA300. For Senegalese food try Le Picboeuf and La
Maroise.
DJIFER
Fifteen kilometres south of Palmarin, Djifer MAR LODJ
is a good starting point for pirogue excur- There aren’t vast differences in quality be-
sions around the Siné-Saloum Delta (half- tween the campements on Mar Lodj, just
day trips around CFA25,000). The filthy, in price and service. The friendly campe-
litter-strewn village holds little appeal in ment Essamaye (www.senegalia.com; r with full board
itself, but the deserted sand bank Pointe de CFA17,500) has excellent-value rooms with
Sangomar and the tranquil islands of Guior clean, shared bathrooms. Le Limboko (%641
and Guissanor are close by. A visit here can 2253) has a good restaurant, a couple of rooms
be combined with a pirogue tour through and a manager who’s full of useful advice.
the maze of mangroves, and a stop at the Inquire for prices. Mbine Diam (%636 9199;
villages of Dionewar and Falia. s/d/tr CFA9000/16,000/21,000) is one of the simplest
In Djifer, La Pointe de Sangomar (%/fax 835 campements on the island, which is reflected
6191; d CFA8600, with bathroom CFA12,600) is popu- in the adequate prices. A little more upmar-
lar, while the slightly shabby Yokam (%936 ket are the bungalows of Le Bazouk (%820
3752; r per person CFA3000) is great for arrang- 4125; [email protected]; per person CFA12,000)
ing pirogue excursions. In Dionewar, you and Nouvelle Vague (%634 0723; s/d/tr CFA15,600/
can spend the night in the luxurious Delta 23,200/25,800). All campements offer pick-up
Niominka (%948 9935; www.deltaniominka.com; r per from Ndangane, some for free.
SENEGAL

person incl breakfast CFA25,000).

Getting There & Away
NDANGANE & MAR LODJ Take any bus between Kaolack and Mbour,
Ndangane is a thriving tourist centre on and get off at Ndiosomone, from where bush
the northern side of the Siné-Saloum Delta. taxis shuttle back and forth to Ndangane.
From here you can get boats across the river You can go directly by bush taxi from Dakar
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E S I N É - S A L O U M D E LTA • • Fi m e l a & S i m a l 707

to Ndangane for CFA1800. From Mbour as) Has a curious cowboy character and
bush taxis go via Sambadia and Fimela. a very good restaurant.
You can charter a pirogue between Saloum Saloum (% 534 8370; saloumsaloum@
Ndangane and Djifer for about CFA25,000. sentoo.sn; s/d/tr CFA8500/16,000/19,000; s) Try the
A pirogue to Foundiougne is about slightly rugged if you want to spend your
CFA40,000. money locally.
Foundiougne Hôtel (%948 1212; fax 948 1310;
FIMELA & SIMAL s/d/tr incl breakfast CFA21,600/35,200/40,800; as)
The two villages Fimela and Simal lie just If you just want to spend, the overpriced
north of Ndangane, past the tourist trail. In Foundiougne might appeal – it offers a vast
Simal, 2km from Dioffor, the Gîte de Simal range of activities.
(%644 9491, 957 1256; www.lesenegal.info; s/d with The Italian restaurant La Cloche (%544
half board CFA21,000/37,000) has accommodation 4242; meals CFA3500), right near the jetty, has
in rootsy straw-huts. All activities, such as an excellent reputation, both for the spark-
pirogue and fishing trips around the man- ling cleanliness of its kitchen and the fully-
groves are included in the half-board rate. fledged Italian menu.
There are fairly frequent bush taxis from
Ndangane to Fimela (CFA200), from where Getting There & Away
you can hire a taxi to either place for about By minibus, Kaolack to Foundiougne is
CFA1000 to CFA2000. Taxis from Fimela to CFA700. There aren’t many direct buses,
Ndiosomone cost CFA400. so you might have to change at Passi.
Alternatively, you can reach Foundiougne
FOUNDIOUGNE from Fatick. Take a bush taxi to Dakhonga,
Once a French colonial outpost, the expan- where you catch a ferry across to Foun-
sive village of Foundiougne now mainly at- diougne (passenger/car CFA100/1200).
tracts keen anglers and is a good place to If there’s no ferry waiting, you can take a
arrange pirogue trips. Most campements pirogue across (around CFA3000).
listed have boat tours on offer, and prices
tend to be similar (pirogue day trips around TOUBAKOUTA
CFA20,000 to CFA30,000, transfer to Djifer Nestled among mazes of mangroves, the
CFA40,000). tiny town of Toubakouta is one of the
This area has notoriously bad drinking most beautiful spots of the Siné-Saloum
water – stick to bottled. Delta. It’s an excellent base for excursions
to the nearby Parc National du Delta du
Sleeping & Eating Saloum and the stunning Air Marine Pro-
West from the ferry pier, there’s a string of tegée, both of which teem with wildlife,
campements. They’re numerous, but overall including pelicans, flamingos, herons and
quality standards are pretty low. egrets.
La Pirogue (%516 7102; r per person CFA8000, with Toubakouta has a couple of cybercafés,
half/full board CFA13,000/16,000) This tiny hotel has télécentres and a post office, but no bank.
spotless rooms and a bread oven onsite.
Le Baobab sur Mer (Chez Anne Marie; %948 1262; s/ Sleeping & Eating
d/tr incl breakfast CFA8500/16,000/20,000) Right on the Toubakouta has hotels for all budgets.
river and run by the boisterous Anne Marie, Keur Youssou (%/fax 948 7728; d/tr CFA12,000/15,000;
this place is booming. Meals are available a) One of the best-quality cheapies in the
(CFA3000 to CFA4000). country. Rooms are beautifully furnished
Le Baobab sur Terre (Chez Ismail; %/fax 948 1108; s/ and the atmosphere friendly and relaxed.
d incl breakfast CFA6500/13,000) A relative of Baobab Les Coquillages du Niombatto (%645 3036;
sur Mer, sur Terre is a more understated af- [email protected]; d incl breakfast CFA12,500) Head
SENEGAL

fair, with very basic, but cheap rooms. here for basic, but impeccable rooms. It also
Les Bolongs (%/fax 948 1110; www.lesbolongs has an excellent restaurant.
.com; r CFA10,000) Spacious bungalows set in a Keur Bamboung (%510 8013; www.oceanium.org;
lush garden. r with half board/full board CFA17,000/22,000) The most
Indiana Club (%/fax 948 1213; www.indianaclub fascinating place of all. A beautiful, village-
.net; r per person with half/full board CFA15,000/19,000; run ecolodge, stunningly located on the edge
 708 C E N T R A L & N O R T H E R N S E N E G A L • • T h i è s www.lonelyplanet.com

of a mangrove-lined island, a pirogue journey

and donkey-cart ride out of town. Transport CENTRAL & NORTHERN
and all activities (mangrove walks, pirogue
trips, canoeing, bird-watching) are included
in the price.
SENEGAL
Hôtel Keur Saloum (%948 7715; www.keursaloum This region covers a vast area, from the
.com; s/d with half board CFA36,000/58,000; as ) edge of the busy Cap Vert Peninsula, to the
This vast hotel is the most upmarket place remote outer edges of northern Senegal. It
where nicely furnished bungalows are scat- includes some rarely visited spots, such as
tered across a pretty garden. the magnificent Desert de Lompoul and the
route through the arid lands along the Sene-
Getting There & Away gal River. These solitary spaces contrast
Toubakouta is just off the main road be- sharply with the bustling towns of histori-
tween Kaolack and Karang. Kaolack to cal Saint-Louis, Thiès, Kaolack and Touba,
Toubakouta is CFA3000 by sept-place taxi Senegal’s holy city.
and CFA1300 by Ndiaga Ndiaye.
THIÈS
PARC NATIONAL DU DELTA DU Thiès is the gateway to the region, a city
SALOUM destined to absorb Dakar’s population
The 76,000 hectares of the Parc National du overspill. The leafy town is of marginal in-
Delta du Saloum (admission CFA2000) encompass terest to travellers apart from one major at-
the dry savanna woodland of the Forêt traction – the world famous Tapestry Factory
de Fathala, wide stretches of mangrove (see below).
swamps, and a maritime section that ex-
tends from the islands of Betanti to the Information
Pointe de Sangomar. Wildlife in the for- CBAO, SGBS and BICIS all have branches
est section includes red colobus and patas with withdrawal facilities. There are several
monkeys, warthogs and hyenas. The sea télécentres, cybercafés and a post office in
sections allow for bird-watching, though the centre of town.
sea turtles and dolphins can occasionally BICIS (%951 8339; Place de France; h7.45am-
be spotted. 12.15pm & 1.40-3.45pm)
The main entrance to the park is in Mis-
sirah. You pay your admission charge at the
office of the eco guards (%936 3431; h9am- TAPESTRIES OF THIÈS
4pm), who can also show you around. The factory of the Manufactures Séné-
In Missirah, you can stay at the peaceful galaises des Arts Décoratifs (%/fax 951
and welcoming Gîte de Bandiala (%948 7735; 1131; admission CFA1000; h8am-12.30pm & 3-
www.gite.bandiala.com; r per person with half/full board 6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12.30pm Sat & Sun) was one
CFA15,400/21,100), which lies about 2km east of the many artistic endeavours inspired by
of Missirah, down a sand path that turns President Senghor during the 1960s. Today,
off the main road just before you get to the the factory is run as a cooperative, with de-
village. The place is full of character and signs for the tapestries chosen from paint-
a great base for exploring this part of the ings submitted by Senegalese artists.
delta. It also has a water hole where mon- All the weaving is done on manual looms,
keys, warthogs and other animals come to and two weavers complete about 1 sq metre
drink. per month. Only eight tapestries are made
from each design. Most find their way around
Getting There & Away the world as gifts from the government to
A bush taxi from Toubakouta is CFA400, foreign dignitaries; there’s a huge tapestry
SENEGAL

but they’re few and far between. For around hanging in Atlanta airport and another in
CFA5000, someone will usually drive you Buckingham Palace. Others are for sale, but
there. Another option is to get a private at CFA500,000 per square metre, most of
taxi all the way from Kaolack – this will us will be content to admire them in the
cost anything between CFA20,000 and exhibition room.
CFA40,000.
 Thiès
www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L & N O R T H E R N S E N E G A L • • T h i è s 709

0 500 m
THIÈS 0 0.3 miles

A B C D
To Saint-Louis
(194km)
Louis
de St-
Route
1
16

Some Minor Roads

Not Depicted
Ave Coumba Ndiouffene Diouf
Rue de Douaúmont
M.Doucoure

12
Allee

Rue de Paris
INFORMATION
Rue Amadou Sow 6 13 BICIS Bank....................................1 B3
7 CBAO Bank..................................2 B3
Ave Général de Gaulle
Post Office...................................3 B3
Train SGBS Bank...................................4 B3
Station
5 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
2 Tapestry Factory..........................5 A2
11
SLEEPING
Ru

Hôtel Man-Gan de Thiés .............6 B2

e
Ho

Ave Léopold Senghor

15
up

14 8 EATING
ho
Mairie

10
uë

Bakery..........................................7 B2
t-B

Case á Teranga............................8 B2
oi
gn

Croissant Magique ......................9 B3

Rue de la

9 all
inaf Les Délices..................................10 B2
1 Ayn
4 Ave Les Vieilles Marmites..................11 B2
Pamanda....................................12 B1
Hôtel de Ville Restaurant le Cailcedrat .............13 B2
3
3 ENTERTAINMENT
2 Av Bidew Bi.....................................14 A2
ed
eK Dosso Complexe........................15 B2
r
ka

To Le Massa Massa om
Da

(500m); Gare Routière bo

lé
de

(1.5km); Les Résidences TRANSPORT

de Lat-Dior (2km); To Touba (124km);
ute

Dakar (70km)
Taxi Stand..................................16 B1
Kaolack (140km)
Ro

CBAO (%952 05 05; Rue Nationale 2) better at Pamanda (%952 1550; Rue de Paris;
SGBS (%951 82 25; Ave Lépold Sédar Senghor) dishes from CFA1000-5000; h9am-2am). Les Délices
(% 951 7516; Ave Lépold Senghor; h 7.30am-2am)
Sleeping serves good ice cream and pastries on a
There are several good sleeping options, pretty terrace.
including the excellent Le Massa Massa The Restaurant le Cailcedrat (%951 1130;
(% 952 1244; Cité Malick Sy; r with/without air-con Ave Général de Gaulle; CFA1500-4000; h7am-midnight)
CFA20,600/12,600), where rooms are simple and leads the route upmarket, with kofta and
welcoming and the French and Belgian cui- other Lebanese dishes in pleasant surround-
sine (dishes around CFA4000) divine. The ings. The excellent restaurant Les Vieilles
simpler Hôtel Man-Gan de Thiès (%951 1526; Marmites (%951 4440; dishes around CFA3000) has
fax 951 2532; Rue Amadou Sow; s/d CFA15,000/18,000; been popular for years and the Case à Teranga
a) is more basic but has the added at- (%611 5125; Ave Lépold Senghor; meals from CFA1000-
traction of a pleasant courtyard garden. 5000) has a delicious choice of West Indian,
The most luxurious place is the multistar Indian and French cuisine served with live
hotel Les Résidences de Lat-Dior (%952 0777; music on weekends.
[email protected]; s/d CFA27,600/35,200; There’s a good bakery (bread CFA150, croissants
pis ) equipped with a modern fit- CFA700) for breakfast stuff, and several small
ness centre, wi-fi access and even its own boutiques for groceries and other items.
mosque.
SENEGAL

Entertainment
Eating The two mighty entertainment complexes
The local restaurant scene is mainly made Bidew Bi (%639 8554; h7pm-4am) and Dosso
up of Lebanese fast-food joints – but good Complexe (% 951 2640; www.dossonight.com;
ones. The Croissant Magique (%951 1878; dishes hTue-Sun; s) are where it all happens on
around CFA2000) is popular, though pizzas are weekends.
 710 C E N T R A L & N O R T H E R N S E N E G A L • • D i o u r b e l www.lonelyplanet.com

Getting There & Around

Bush taxis and minibuses leave from the BAMBA
gare routière, 1.5km from the centre, on the Cheikh Amadou Bamba, the founder of the
southern outskirts. There are frequent sept- Mouride brotherhood (1887), is without a
place taxis to Dakar (CFA1200, one hour, doubt Senegal’s most iconic religious fig-
70km), Kaolack (CFA1900, two hours, ure. His veiled portrait looks earnestly down
140km) and Saint-Louis (CFA2600, four on the population from thousands of paint-
hours, 196km). Any taxi trip around town ings spread across walls, shop signs, cars,
should cost you CFA400, including the jour- stickers and even T-shirts. Born in 1850 as
ney from the gare routière into the centre. a relative of the powerful Wolof leader Lat
There’s a taxi stand in the north of town. Dior and a member of the wealthy Mbacke
clan, he initially renounced his noble herit-
DIOURBEL age, and chose a path of religious devotion.
Diourbel was home to Cheikh Amadou His preachings attracted an increasingly
Bamba, the founder of the Mouride Sufi large following, the most famous disciple
brotherhood, from 1912 until his death in being the eccentric Cheikh Ibra Fall, leader
1927. The palatial compound of his descend- of the Baye Fall, an offshoot of the Mour-
ants is quite a sight, as is the town’s main idiya. Both branches emphasise the im-
mosque, a building that’s smaller, neater and, portance of physical labour as a path to
it has to be said, more aesthetically pleasing spiritual salvation. This initially fitted neatly
than the more famous mosque of Touba. with the French administration’s attempts
The small, simple campement Keur Déthié to improve its territory’s economic output,
Caty (%971 5190; s/d CFA11,600/13,000; pa) is but Bamba’s anticolonial stance and the co-
the only place to stay in town, unless you lonialists’ fear of his growing Islamic power
knock on the doors of the locals. There are base led them to exile the charismatic
a few cheap restaurants on the main street leader. Bamba returned to Senegal in 1907
and around the gare routière. and, despite his continued anti colonial
Plenty of traffic runs through Diourbel rhetoric, entered into hushed negotiations
on its way to Dakar or Touba. Sept-place with the French; they both had much to
taxis go to Dakar (CFA1720, three hours, gain from keeping peasants working in the
146km), Thiès (CFA900, 80 minutes, 76km) groundnut fields.
and Touba (CFA700, one hour, 50km). Long after his death, the influence of
Bamba and his teachings keeps growing,
TOUBA the ever-increasing masses of people de-
Touba is the sacred focus of the Mouride Sufi scending on Touba for the Magal being proof
brotherhood, the place where their spiritual of the immense popularity the Mouridiya
leader Cheikh Amadou Bamba lived, worked enjoys.
and died. He is buried in the Grand Mosque
of Touba, an awe-inspiring building whose
minaret dominates the town. The constantly descend on Touba for the Grand Magal, a
expanding building shows signs of various pilgrimage that celebrates Bamba’s return
phases of construction, and has an impres- from exile in 1907 where he was banished
sive library containing the complete works for 20 years by the French authorities. It’s
of Cheikh Amadou Bamba. an impressive sight but you have to be early
But Touba is not only about spirituality, to find a place in a taxi and keep your wits
but about big business. The Mouride brother- about you once there.
hood is an influential economic and political There are no places to stay in Touba, but
force in the country, and much of Senegal’s on the day of the Magal local residents open
money is concentrated in Touba. Touba their homes for visitors. At any other time,
SENEGAL

market is a huge sprawl of tax-free and il- your best bet is the Campement Touristique le
legal activity. Seeing the combined forces of Baol (%976 5505; fax 976 7254; s/d CFA11,600/13,000;
religion, economy and politics work hand in a) in Mbaké (10km south of Touba),
hand is fascinating, though a bit confusing. which has spartan rooms with their own
Once a year, 48 days after the Islamic bathrooms. There’s an SGBS bank past the
New Year, around two million people turn-off to Touba.
www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L & N O R T H E R N S E N E G A L • • K a o l a c k 711

Touba to Dakar costs CFA3200 by sept- of the Baye Niass brotherhood. Interesting is
place taxi, CFA1500 by Ndiaga Ndiaye and also the Alliance Franco-Senegalaise (%941 1061;
CFA1500 by car mouride. Rue Galliene), either admire its fantastic décor,
take in one of the frequent exhibitions and
KAOLACK events, or just have a tranquil cup of coffee.
Kaolack is a city that sees a lot of visitors If it’s wood carvings and batiks you’re after,
pass through, but only a few that stay. How- check the Village Artisanal in the north of town,
ever, the town has a unique urban charm on the route to Thiès.
worth inhaling for a day or two, and its
central position makes it a great base for Sleeping
exploring much of the country. There are several cheap places, but not
all of them worth considering. The Djolof
Information Inn (%941 9360; r CFA10,000; a), near the gare
Banks include CBAO (Rue de la Gare) and SGBS routière to Dakar, is the friendliest and most
(Rue de la Gare), both of which have Visa- welcoming of the lot. Auberge de Carrefour
welcoming ATMs. There are many places (%941 9000; Ave Valdiodio Ndiaye; s/d CFA8500/13,000)
to connect to the net; the Internet Café (Rue is also pretty good, with clean, spacious
Cheikh Tidiane Cherif; per hr CFA150) has a fairly rooms and enthusiastic management. You
speedy service. Kaolack has a relatively can also stay at the Mission Catholique (%941
well-equipped and -staffed hospital. 2526; Rue Merlaud-Ponty; dm CFA2000, s CFA5000),
though rooms are nothing special.
Sights & Activities More upmarket are the Hôtel de Paris (%941
The town’s round, covered market is one of the 1019; fax 941 1017; Rue Galliéne; s/d CFA24,000/30,000;
biggest in Africa, and fairly hassle-free com- as), which has a worn-out charm, and
pared to its Dakar relatives. The Moroccan- Le Relais (%941 1000; fax 941 1002; Plage de Kundam;
style building of the Grande Mosquée is the pride s/d CFA22,000/27,000; ais), which surprises
0 200 m
KAOLACK 0 0.1 miles
6 To Grande Mosquée
A B C (3km); Car Mouride D
To Thiès Station (3km)
(140km) 11
Rue Corona

To Djolof Inn (500m);

Town 7
Rue Maréchal Bug

Gare Routière de 2 ye
Dakar (1km); Dakar (191km) Hall Ave Valdiodio Ndia 14 To Tambacounda
Police 12 13 (275km)
1 Station Cathedral 17
Gouvernance 16
Ave Cheikh Ibra Fall
Rue Cheikh Tidiane

3
eau

School
Rue des Ecoles
Rue Cardinal Verd

Ave Noirat

5
Rue Maréchal Joffre
Rue de Résidence
Rue Galliéne

19 Market
Cherif

To
Rue Paul Seignet Tambacounda
Disused Clock 15 (275km)
Train Tower
Station edy)
ier

1 Ave Filiatre (John Kenn

Rue de Faidherbe

2 Rue de la Gare 4
Rue la Mare

18
Rue Merlaud-Pon

To Farafenni (70km);
Ave Delois Barra (110km); Stadium
Ziguinchor (245km)

INFORMATION EATING
10 CBAO Bank..............................1 B2 Bakery....................................11 C1
Hospital....................................2 B1 Chez Adama Ciré...................12 C1
ty

8 Internet Café............................3 D1 Chez Maty.............................13 D1

SGBS Bank...............................4 B2 Le Brasero Chez Anouar.........14 C1
Super-Service.........................15 D2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
SENEGAL

Alliance Franco-Senegalaise......5 B1 ENTERTAINMENT

3 Village Artisanal........................6 B1 Bar Etoile du Siné...................16 C1
Blue Bird.................................17 C1
SLEEPING VLC.......................................(see 6)
Auberge de Carrefour..............7 D1
Hôtel de Paris...........................8 B3 TRANSPORT
To Port Saloum Le Relais..................................9 A3 Garage Nioro (Sud)................18 D2
(100m) River Mission Catholique.................10 B2 Gare Routiére Ville.................19 B2
9

Kaolack
 712 C E N T R A L & N O R T H E R N S E N E G A L • • D e s e r t d e L o m p o u l www.lonelyplanet.com

with style among the many unglamorous (%644 9194; 957 1256; www.lesenegal.info; s/d with half
options around. board CFA21,000/37,000), which offers accommo-
dation in Mauritanian desert tents. Camel
Eating tours, picnic in the dunes and pick-up from
If good-quality food is important to you, Lompoul village are included in the price.
you should probably cook it yourself. Ex- Most people get here by organised tour
ceptions to Kaolack’s dire gargotte scene from Saint-Louis (see p714). If you’re in
include Le Brasero Chez Anouar (%941 1608; Ave your own car or hire taxi, take the route
Valdiodio Ndiaye; meals about CFA3000; h7am-11pm), from Saint-Louis to Dakar, turn off at
with an entirely deserved reputation for Kébémer and follow the smooth road to
good food and lively ambience. For cheap Lompoul village, from where campement
shwarmas and simple meals, Chez Maty staff can pick you up with 4WDs.
(%941 9000; Rue Cheikh Tidiane Cherif; mains around
CFA2500; hMon-Sat) is a good address. SAINT-LOUIS
Self-caterers are fairly well served, with pop 147,100
the Super-Service (Ave Filiatre), a giant sprawl of When you consider the enormous impact
a market selling fresh produce and a good the French had on this continent it’s fascinat-
bakery (Ave Valdiodio Ndiaye). ing to think that the place where it all began
has barely changed for more than a century.
Entertainment Founded in 1659 by Louis Caullier on the
The VLC (Village Loisir Club; Village Artisanal) is the easily accessible, flood-proof Île de Ndar,
closest Kaolack gets to urbane entertain- Saint-Louis was the first French settlement
ment. The music is bass-heavy as it should in Africa. By the 1790s, it had become a busy
be and the dance floors crammed. At Blue port and trading centre with a racially diverse
Bird (%941 5350; Rue Maréchal Bugeau; h8am-3am population of 10,000. Most notable among
Mon-Sat, 6pm-2am Sun), a dinner for two can be the residents of Saint-Louis at this time were
followed by dancing in the adjacent night- the signares – women of mixed race who
club. The boisterous Bar Etoile du Siné (%936 married wealthy European merchants tem-
45 93; h9am-2am) is a grubby little place for porarily based in the city, and thereby earned
those who take their drinks seriously. aristocratic status and great wealth.
With the creation of l’Afrique Occiden-
Getting There & Away tale Française (French West Africa) in 1895,
The town has three gares routières: Gare Saint-Louis became the capital of the French
Routière de Dakar, on the northwestern colonial empire. When the capital status
side of town, for western and northern was transferred to Dakar in 1902, Saint-
destinations; Garage Nioro (Sud), on the Louis’ prestige started fading, even though
southeast side of the city centre, for Zig- it retained status of capital of Senegal and
uinchor, The Gambia and Tambacounda; Mauritania until 1958, when all Senegalese
and Gare Routière Ville for local taxis. administration was moved to Dakar.
There are frequent sept-place taxis to Over the years, Saint-Louis expanded
Dakar (CFA2600, three hours). A sept-place beyond the confines of the island, covering
to the Gambian border at Karang is CFA2300 part of the mainland (Sor) and the Langue
(two hours) and to Tambacounda CFA5000 de Barbarie Peninsula. With its range of
(five hours). Cars mourides (CFA1500) to classic architecture, the island was classified
Dakar leave from near the mosque; ask your a Unesco World Heritage site in 2000.
way there.
Shared taxis around town cost CFA500. Orientation
The city of Saint-Louis straddles part of the
DESERT DE LOMPOUL Langue de Barbarie peninsula, the island
SENEGAL

Near the Grande Côte, west of Kébémer, and the mainland. From the mainland you
Lompoul surprises with huge sand dunes reach the island via the 500m-long Pont
that stretch from the coast far into the Faidherbe; two smaller bridges, the almost-
country’s interior, forming a veritable derelict Pont Mustapha Malick Gaye and
desert. There’s an impressive campement in the safer Pont Geole, link the island to the
the heart of the dunes, Le Lodge de Loumpoul peninsula. The island was formerly the
Saint-Louis

ὈὈ
www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L & N O R T H E R N S E N E G A L • • S a i n t - L o u i s 713

0 300 m
SAINT-LOUIS 0 0.2 miles

A To Mauritanian B C D
Border (Restrictred
Area; 2.5km)

INFORMATION
22 30 BICIS Bank...................................1 B4
1
CBAO bank..................................2 B3
Police Station 34
Place Internet Café................................3 B4
de Liège L'Institut Culturel et Linguistique
Jean Mermoz...........................4 C2
Football

Ὀ
National Park Office....................5 C4
Field 40 Post Office...................................6 C4
Sahel Découverte Bassari.............7 C3

Ave Jean Mermoz

18
Sentoo Office...............................8 B5
Syndicat d'Initiative......................9 C4
Télécentre..................................(see 3)
Rue Adamson

16 4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Rue Abdoulaye Seck
Cathedral...................................10 B5
2
Rue de France

Governor's Palace......................11 B4
12
Rue Brue Grand Mosque...........................12 C2
OCEAN

Mame Thiouth...........................13 C3
Rue Khalifa Ababacar Sy
Barbarie Peninsula

24 Ave Blaise Diagne

Museum....................................14 B6

Quai Roume
Pont Geole
N'Dar Rognât Casernes........................15 B4
Tout
31
SLEEPING
ATLANTIC

Auberge de Jeunesse..................16 B2
Rue Flamand Auberge de la Vallée................(see 29)
27 Auberge l'Harmattan.................17 B4
Rue Lt PH Diop Café des Arts..............................18 B2
38

ὄὄὈὈ
Ave Dodds

Hôtel de la Poste........................19 C4
Rue Boufflers Hôtel de la Résidence.................20 C3
13
Watertower 28 Hotel Sindone............................21 C6
26
3 Rue Aynima Fall
Langue de

La Louisiane................................22 B1
Senegal River

Senegal River

La Maison Rose..........................23 C3
Rue P Holle 29
Sunu Keur..................................24 B2
23
Rue Seydou Tall

2 7
20
Rue Lanzun
36 25
1
Rue Blanchot
35 32
39
17
Rue Bisson
Market 33
3 19
To Airport (7km);
4 Rue du Général de Gaulle
Bango (8km);
roix

Pont Mustapha 6 Podor (220km)

37
Rue Milles Lac

Malick Gaye Place

ὄὄ
Faidherbe 15 9 Pont Faidherbe
Train
11 Station
To Gite Walo (1km);
5 Gare Routière (3.5km);
Rue de l'Eglise Hôtel Mame Coumba Bang
8 10 (7km); Reserve de Guembeul
Rue AM Javouy (12km); Gandiol (18km); Mouit
e (20km); Dakar (260km)
Old Gare
EATING Routière
Mar Diop

Aux Délices du Fleuve................25 C4

Bou El Mogdad..........................26 C3
Coup de Torchon.......................27 C3 Sor
5 Guet Ecomarché.................................28 C3
Blvd Abdoulaye

N'Dar
Route de la Corniche

Rue Thevenot
Quai Henri Jay

La Linguère................................29 C3
La Saigonnaise............................30 B1
ont

Rue Chassag La Signare..................................31 C2

nol
Rue Blaise Dum

Le Flamingo...............................32 C4
Seye
Sarr

Libre-Service..............................33 C4
Pointe Nord................................34 C1
Rue Ibrahim

Rue Babacar

Rue Ribet
DRINKING
Iguane Café...............................35 B4
Mainland

21
l'Embuscade...............................36 B4
SENEGAL

὇὇
Rue A Fall ENTERTAINMENT
6 La Chaumière............................37 A4
Le Laser.....................................38 C3

὇὇
Muslim 14 Marco Jazz.................................39 C4
Cemetery Quai des Arts & VIP Nightclub...40 C1

὇὇ To Hydrobase (4km); Parc

National de la Langue
de Barbarie (18km)
TRANSPORT
Le Routard...............................(see 39)
 714 C E N T R A L & N O R T H E R N S E N E G A L • • S a i n t - L o u i s www.lonelyplanet.com

European quarter, with many grand old TRAVEL AGENCIES

houses, a few of which still retain their gra- Sahel Découverte Bassari (%961 5689, 961 4263;
cious wrought-iron balconies, while others www.saheldecouverte.com; Ave Blaise Diagne) Saint-Louis’
are gradually crumbling away. The penin- best agency, with a range of tours on offer.
sula was the African quarter, previously in-
habited by freed slaves; today it’s a thriving Sights
fishing community called Guet N’Dar. Designed by Gustav Eiffel and originally built
to cross the Danube, the Pont Faidherbe, link-
MAPS ing the mainland and island, was transferred
The map Saint-Louis et la Region du Fleuve to Saint-Louis in 1897. The bridge is a grand
Senegal (CFA3000), a cross between a car- piece of 19th-century engineering – 507m
toon and an aerial photograph, is available long with a middle section that can rotate to
in bookshops and hotels. allow ships to pass through.
Across the bridge, you see the Hôtel de la
Information Poste, the oldest hotel in town, and the place
CULTURAL CENTRES the colonial air-mail pilots used to stay
L’Institut Culturel et Linguistique Jean Mermoz in colonial times. The Governor’s Palace is
(%938 2626; www.ccfsi.sn; Ave Jean Mermoz; flanked north and south by the 1837 Rognât
h8.30am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm Mon-Fri) Has a café and caserns. The nearby Cathedral (Rue de l’Eglise),
hosts films, concerts and art exhibitions. built in 1828, is one of the oldest operating
churches in Senegal. The Grand Mosque in the
INTERNET ACCESS north was constructed in 1847 and features
Internet Café (Rue du Général de Gaulle; per hr CFA500; the oddity of an attached clock tower.
h8am-11pm) Has decent terminals and several phone Saint-Louis has plenty of historical build-
booths. ings, most of them in a semiruinous state, yet
Sentoo Office (Blvd Abdoulaye Mar Diop; per hr CFA500; still recognisable with their typical balconies
h9am-1pm & 3-8pm) and two-storey layout surrounding a small
courtyard. At the southern tip of the island is
MONEY the historical museum (%961 1050; Quai Henri Jay;
Both banks change money and have admission CFA500; h9am-noon & 3-6pm), but more
ATMs. interesting is the contemporary art gallery
BICIS (%961 1053; Rue de France; h7.45am-12.15pm Mame Thiouth (%961 3611; h8am-7pm), housed
& 1.40-3.45pm Mon-Thu, 7.45am-1pm & 2.40-3.45pm Fri) in a restored old Saint-Louis building.
CBAO (%961 9639; Rue Khalifa Ababacar Sy; h8.15- The mainland parts of Saint-Louis have
5.15pm Mon-Fri) Also has a Western Union office. less to offer in historical architecture, but
more in contemporary life. Guet N’Dar is
POST a fantastically busy fishing town. At the
Post office (Rue du Général de Gaulle) The Art southern end of Guet N’Dar is the Muslim
Deco–style building opposite the Hôtel de cemetery where each fisherman’s grave is
la Poste. covered with a fishing net.

TELEPHONE Festivals & Events

Télécentre (Rue du Général de Gaulle; h 8am- The Saint-Louis Jazz Festival (see opposite) is
midnight) an event of international renown that regu-
larly attracts jazz greats from around the
TOURIST INFORMATION world. It takes place annually in early May.
National Park Office (Quai Henri Jay; h8am-1.30pm, If you pass through town in October, you
3-7pm) Can also help with information about the national might have the chance to watch the impres-
parks of northern Senegal. sive Regatta of Guet-Ndar, a lively boat race
SENEGAL

Syndicat d’Initiative (%961 2455; that passes through the river arm between
[email protected]) A haven of regional information Saint-Louis and Sor. Les Fanals, the historic
and also organises tours. processions with decorated lanterns (not
www.saintlouisdusenegal.com This website contains the handheld kind, but lanterns so big they
plenty of useful of information and has links to all major resemble carnival floats), are a tradition
hotels and restaurants. unique to Saint-Louis. They were initiated
www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L & N O R T H E R N S E N E G A L • • S a i n t - L o u i s 715

ily atmosphere of this colourful little place

SAINT-LOUIS JAZZ more than makes up for it.
Jazz is a big thing here – and it’s not just Auberge l’Harmattan (% 961 8253; auberge
the shared name with St Louis, Missouri, in [email protected]; Rue Abdoulaye Seck;d/tr CFA15,000/
the USA, where blues and jazz originated. 20,000; a) Rooms in the historic building are
Way back in the 1940s jazz bands from enormous, but suffer slightly from neglect.
Saint-Louis (Senegal) were playing in Paris The patio is a fine place to relax.
and elsewhere in Europe. Worldwide inter- Sunu Keur (%961 8800; chaffoisjeanjacques@yahoo
est was revived in the early 1990s when .fr; s/d from CFA15,000/20,000) This calm guest-
the Saint-Louis Jazz Festival was first held, house has beautifully decorated rooms
with mainly local bands performing. Now overlooking the river in a carefully restored
renamed the Saint-Louis International colonial building.
Jazz Festival, this annual event is held the La Louisiane (%961 4221; Point Nord; louisiane@
second weekend of May, and attracts per- sentoo.sn; www.aubergelalouisiane.com; d/tr CFA18,400/
formers and audiences from all over the 24,300) Excellent value for money, this peace-
world. At most other times, the stages of ful little place has spacious, ventilated
the city’s many concert venues and jazz rooms right on the river.
bars remain empty. For more background, La Maison Rose (%938 2222; www.lamaisonrose.net;
have a look at St-Louis Jazz, a book by Ave Blaise Diagne; s/d/ste from CFA45,000/55,000/77,500)
Hervé Lenormond (French text, Editions Every room and suite in this beautifully
Joca Seria), which outlines the history of restored house is unique, though they all
jazz in Senegal and has some wonderful exude a spirit of old-time comfort. The fur-
photos of musicians from Africa, America niture is antique and the walls are decorated
and Europe performing in Saint-Louis. with wonderful art works.
Programmes and dates can be checked Hôtel Sindone (%961 4244; www.hotelsindone
on www.saintlouisjazz.com, or with the Syn- .com; Quai Henri Jay; s/d from CFA26,500/29,300; a) A
dicat d’Initiative. faint pink‘n’fluffy honeymoon feel scents
the air of this stylish and airy hotel on the
south side of the island. River views cost
by the signares – and are held around Christ- CFA3000 extra.
mas and sometimes during the jazz festival. Hôtel de la Résidence (%961 1260; hotresid@sentoo
.sn; Ave Blaise Diagne; s/d CFA27,600/34,200; a) This
Sleeping is one of Saint-Louis’ oldest hotels, and the
MAINLAND owners (an ancient Saint Louisian family)
Gite Walo (%961 4407; [email protected]; d from have done a great job of evoking that sense of
CFA10,000) This understated place on the route history. Rooms are pretty and comfortable,
from Dakar offers plenty for the amount and the restaurant one of the town’s best.
you pay: a wide terrace, shaded courtyard Hôtel de la Poste (% 961 1118; www.hotel
and spacious, spotless rooms. -poste.com; Rue du Général de Gaulle; s/d/tr CFA30,000/
Hôtel Mame Coumba Bang (%961 1850; www 36,000/43,000; a) Another Saint-Louis classic;
.hotelcoumba.com; s/d CFA28,000/35,000; as) It’s dating from the 1850s, the oldest hotel was
named after a water spirit and calls itself the historical port of call for the pilots of
‘lover’s wood’ – the large swimming pool the colonial air-mail service. You pay for
and the tranquil riverside garden explain the historic surroundings as well as for the
the choice of names. It’s 7km from town plain rooms.
just off the road to Dakar.
LANGUE DE BARBARIE
ISLAND Hotel Dior (%961 3118; www.hotel-dior.com;s CFA12,600-
Auberge de Jeunesse (%961 2409; pisdiallo@yahoo 18,700, d 18,100-24,200) This is a good-value
SENEGAL

.fr; Rue Abdoulaye Seck; dm/d CFA5500/10,000) Yes option at the Hydrobase on Langue de Bar-
it’s possible: a spotless, cheap, mosquito- barie. You can also camp here (per person
netted, ventilated place to spend the night CFA2500).
sleeping comfortably. Hôtel Cap Saint-Louis (%961 3909; www.hotel
Café des Arts (%961 6078; Rue de France; dm/d capsaintlouis.com; s/d CFA10,400/14,800, with bathroom
CFA4500/9000) Rooms are basic, but the fam- CFA12,600/32,200; pas) What looks like
 716 C E N T R A L & N O R T H E R N S E N E G A L • • S a i n t - L o u i s www.lonelyplanet.com

another resort hotel is in fact a friendly (and an upmarket bar at night, and frequently
child-friendly) place. It’s tastefully done, sits has good live bands playing near the swim-
right on the sea, and has one of the best swim- ming pool.
ming pools around. Large groups or families L’Embuscade (%961 7741; Rue Blanchot) A pop-
can rent five-bed bungalows (CFA43,400). ular beer and tapas place that gets busy at
Hôtel l’Oasis (%/fax 961 4232; http://hoteloasis weekends.
.free.fr; s/d CFA15,000/21,000; as) Small, unpre- Iguane Café (%558 0879; Rue Abdoulaye Seck)
tentious huts are decked out in busy Afri- Stylish Dakar-vibes flow through this busy
can prints, and spotless bungalows house Cuban-themed bar.
up to three people. Self-caterers can shop in the market just
Hôtel Mermoz (%961 3668; www.hotelmermoz north of the bridge in Guet N’Dar. For Eu-
.com; s/d/tr from CFA13,000/18,000/23,000; as) This ropean goods and French wine, head for the
has more character than many of the large Libre-Service (Ave Blaise Diagne) or the Ecomarché
hotels. Huts and bungalows are spaced out (Ave Blaise Diagne).
in a large, sandy garden, and all buildings
are connected by meandering, wheelchair- Entertainment
accessible paths. Saint-Louis has a fine selection of night-
clubs and live-music bars. Le Laser (%961
Eating & Drinking 5398; www.casinolaser.com; admission from CFA2000;
There’s a growing choice of good restau- hWed-Sun 7pm-3am), part of the Saint-Louis
rants in Saint-Louis. Most hotels also do Casino complex, is popular. La Chaumière
food – the Hôtel de Résidence leading the (% 961 1980; Pointe á Pitre, Guet N’Dar; admission
pack with a menu that leaves you spoilt around CFA2000) is Guet N’Dar’s main haunt,
for choice. and Le Papayer (%961 8687; Carrefour de l’Hydrobase;
La Linguère (%961 3949; Ave Blaise Diagne; meals hnoon-midnight) has the best dance floor on
around CFA2000) Never mind the shoddy inter- the Langue de Barbarie.
ior, the yassa poulet of this place is almost For live concerts, try the intimate Marco
unbeatable. Jazz (%654 2442; [email protected]; Quai Roume),
Pointe Nord (%961 4221; Ave Jean Mermoz) This where the big jazz names tend to give im-
humble eatery in the far north of the island promptu concerts during the jazz festival.
does an amazing grilled fish at very reason- Quai des Arts & VIP Nightclub (%961 5656; Ave
able prices. Jean Mermoz) is where the main action hap-
Coup de Torchon (%518 5408; Ave Blaise Diagne; pens during the jazz festival. The rest of the
meals CFA3500-5000; h11am-1am) This friendly lit- year, the place stays fairly calm, though the
tle restaurant is the perfect spot to spend long nightclub attracts a stylish crowd.
evenings chatting over huge plates of food.
La Signare (%961 1932; Ave Blaise Diagne; meals Getting There & Away
CFA7000; hlunch & dinner Thu-Tue) Considered one AIR
of the best restaurants in Saint-Louis, La Saint-Louis has its own airport, 7km out
Signare offers a truly top-notch menu du jour of town; a taxi from there into Saint-Louis
in a beautifully decorated old-style building. costs around CFA5000. Air Sénégal Inter-
Aux Délices du Fleuve (%961 4251; Quai Roume) national operates a regular flight to Saint-
Saint-Louis’ famous patisserie serves deli- Louis, which connects to Paris and Dakar
cious pastries, ice creams and milky coffees. every Wednesday. You can book directly, or
La Saigonnaise (%961 6481; Rue Abdoulaye Seck; through Sahel Découverte Bassari (p714).
mains CFA5000; hnoon-midnight) If you fancy a
taste of Asia, this Vietnamese restaurant TAXI
complements its great river location with The gare routière sits on the mainland at
tasty Saigon fare. 4.5km from town, south of the Pont Faid-
SENEGAL

Bou El Mogdad (%961 3611; Quai Roume; meals herbe. A taxi from here to the city centre
around CFA3000-6000) Here you can sample inter- on the island costs CFA500. The fare to or
national cuisine in old-style surroundings from Dakar is CFA3500 by sept-place.
overlooking the busy Quai Roume. A sept-place to Gandiol, from where
Le Flamingo (%961 1118; Quai Roume; meals around boats to the Parc National de la Langue de
CFA5000; s) This classy restaurant turns into Barbarie leave, costs CFA500.
www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L & N O R T H E R N S E N E G A L • • A r o u n d S a i n t L o u i s 717

Getting Around inlets and islands where the birds feed and
BICYCLE roost.
Saint-Louis and its surroundings are good
biking areas. Le Routard (%608 9444; Quai Roume) SLEEPING
opposite the Flamingo rents mountain bikes Two campements both provide meals, trans-
(in French VTTs) for CFA5000 per day. fers and offer a range of activities, including
sailboarding, kayaking and bird-watching.
TAXI Campement Langue de Barbarie (%961 1118;
Taxi prices in Saint-Louis are fixed (CFA350 s/d with half board CFA27,000) This large place that’s
at the time of writing). Prices to any destin- run by the Hôtel de la Poste in Saint-Louis
ation in the surrounding regions depend on has pretty cottages, wonderfully positioned
your negotiating skills. at the southern end of the peninsula.
Campement Océan et Savane (% 637 4790;
AROUND SAINT-LOUIS r with half/full board CFA15,200/21,200) In this relaxed
Gandiol & Mouit place run by the Hôtel de la Résidence in
Gandiol is a small village on the mainland, Saint-Louis you can stay in low-roofed,
about 18km south of Saint-Louis. From the Mauritanian-style bungalows or, if you want
lighthouse north of the village, pirogues cross a bit more comfort, in pretty log cabins that
the estuary to the two campements on the house one to five people (CFA30,000) and sit
southern end of the Langue de Barbarie. on stilts in the river. The place has got a fine
About 2km south of Gandiol is Mouit, restaurant under a huge Mauritanian tent.
where you’ll find the national park office and,
on the edge of the river, the brilliant campe- GETTING THERE & AWAY
ment Zebrabar (%638 1862; www.come.to/zebrabar; Take a taxi from Saint-Louis to Gandiol
camping per person CFA2500, s CFA4000-7000, d CFA15,000- lighthouse (around CFA7000). From there,
18,000). This spacious, child-friendly place you cross with a pirogue. Organised tours
has accommodation in simple huts (and the from Saint-Louis are another option.
cut-off cabin of an old truck) and spacious
bungalows. Guests can use kayaks for free, Parc National des Oiseaux du Djoudj
and arrange canoe tours and bird-watching This 16,000-hectare park (%968 8708; admission
trips with the local fishermen (CFA2500 per CFA2000, plus pirogue CFA3500; h7am-dusk Nov-Apr) is
person). If you contact them before arrival, 60km north of Saint-Louis. With its chan-
they can collect you from Saint Louis. nels, creeks, lakes, mud flats and woodland
Hiring a taxi from Saint-Louis to Mouit savanna, it’s one of the best places on earth
and Zebrabar should cost you around to view migratory birds from Europe. It is
CFA3000. Alternatively, there are a few a bird sanctuary of global significance with
daily bush taxis from Saint-Louis to Gan- Unesco World Heritage and Ramsar status.
diol (CFA500). Sometimes this taxi con- Even if you’re not a keen ornithologist,
tinues to Mouit (CFA700), otherwise you’ll it’s hard to escape the impact of seeing
have to walk the last 2km. vast colonies of pelicans and flamingos in
such stunning surroundings. Experienced
Parc National de la Langue de Barbarie bird-watchers will recognise many of the
The park (admission CFA2000; pirogue for 1 or 2 people European species, and the sheer numbers
CFA7500, each extra person CFA2500; h7am-7pm) in- that assemble here are impressive indeed.
cludes the far southern tip of the Langue Around three million individual birds pass
de Barbarie Peninsula, the estuary of the through the park annually, and more than
Senegal River and a section of the mainland 350 separate species have been recorded.
on the other side of the estuary. Its 2000 hec- There are also a few mammals and rep-
tares are home to numerous birds – notably tiles in the park, most notably populations
SENEGAL

flamingos, pelicans, cormorants, herons, of warthogs and mongooses, serpents and

egrets and ducks. From November to April crocodiles (you’re unlikely to spot the latter
these numbers are swelled by the arrival of though). Other mammals include jackals,
migrants from Europe. hyenas, monkeys and gazelles.
The park is best explored by pirogue, Trips around the park are usually, and
which can cruise slowly past the mud flats, best, done by pirogue. The ideal time for
 718 C E N T R A L & N O R T H E R N S E N E G A L • • S e n e g a l R i v e r R o u t e www.lonelyplanet.com

tourists can be accommodated if space is

TOURING THE PARC NATIONAL available.
DES OISEAUX DU DJOUDJ
The Parc National des Oiseaux du Djoudj is GETTING THERE & AWAY
a protected and internationally renowned There’s no public transport to Djoudj, so
bird sanctuary, and bird-watchers flock to it’s best to go by hire taxi from Saint-Louis
the protected area to observe spur-winged (around CFA20,000) or come on an organ-
geese, purple herons, egrets, spoonbills, ised tour. If you’re driving from Saint-Louis,
jaçanas, cormorants, harriers and a multi- take the paved highway towards Rosso for
tude of European migrants that settle about 25km. Near Ross-Béthio you’ll see a
here during November and April. The park sign pointing to the park, from where it’s
is, however, most famous for its impres- another 25km along a dirt road.
sive flocks of pelicans and flamingos, and
all tours offered by agencies, hotels and SENEGAL RIVER ROUTE
guides focus on them. From Saint-Louis, the route along the valley
Tours tend to leave Saint-Louis at 7am to of the Senegal River traces the French con-
reach the park by 8.30am. They start with a quest of the interior, as well as the signs of
two-hour boat ride through the creeks, the its opposition. Along the river, which marks
highlight and sole purpose of which is to Senegal’s northern and eastern borders,
get a view of the enormous pelican colony. you’ll find a string of mid-19th century forts
After lunch you drive to see flamingo flocks in Dagana, Podor, Matam and Bakel, some
on the lake’s edge. in nearly ruins, others in the early stages of
You’ll be able to spot other species, no restoration. The French fortifications were
doubt, but if it’s the rarer varieties you’re military and administrative centres and
after, a tourist tour might not be so satisfying. battle stations in the enduring clashes with
Keen bird-watchers are better off coming the army of El Hadj Omar Tall, who put up
with their own guide, or contacting fierce resistance to the colonial efforts.
the Station Biologique ( % 542 4472; The historical leader had plenty to de-
[email protected]) and explaining their fend – his expansive Islamic empire, which
interest to park director Ablaye Diop or the at its height reached all across West Af-
head of the station Assane Ndoye. They can rica to Timbuktu (in today’s Mali). The
put you in touch with a trained ornithologi- few remaining Omarian mosques, dating
cal guide, and will have up-to-date research from the second half of the 18th century,
findings about the park. that are found in the river region (notably
in Alwar), still seem to oppose the French
forts in a silent, architectural battle.
bird-watching is from December to Janu- Where other areas in Senegal lure visitors
ary. During those months, you’ll already with lush vegetation and rich wildlife, the
be greeted by vast colonies of birds before hot and arid north is all about history and
you’ve even entered your boat. cultural pride. Smooth banco (clay or mud)
brick houses of the Tukulor seem to rise nat-
SLEEPING urally from the soil, and would blend with
Hotel du Djoudj (%963 8702; fax 963 8703; huts their desertlike surroundings, were it not for
d/tr CFA15,000/20,000, rooms d/tr CFA27,000/34,500; h1 the local custom of decorating the outer walls
Nov-31 May; s) This friendly, grand place sits in bold stripes of red, brown and yellow.
near the main entrance. It has comfortable
rooms and helpful staff. You can arrange Rosso-Senegal
boat rides around the park (adult/child The fly-blown frontier town of Rosso-
over two CFA 3500/2500) and hire bicycles Senegal, around 100km northeast of Saint-
SENEGAL

(half-/full-day CFA3000/6000). Louis is the main ferry crossing point

Station Biologique (% 968 8708; dpnsbpnod@ between Senegal and Mauritania. The boat
sentoo.sn; r per person with full board CFA15,000) Situ- service is also about the only reason you
ated at the park headquarters and main en- might want to visit Rosso.
trance, this low-key camp with clean rooms If you get stuck, there’s the Auberge du
is intended for research groups, though Walo (d CFA10,000) where basic double huts
www.lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L & N O R T H E R N S E N E G A L • • S e n e g a l R i v e r R o u t e 719

come with bathroom, and the restaurant a great place to stay. The Catholic Mission (Ave
can prepare meals on order. El Hajj Oumar Tall; r CFA5000) also has a couple of
The journey to Dakar costs CFA5100 by dusty rooms for stranded tourists that come
sept-place taxi, to Saint-Louis the fare is with kind conversation by the talkative
CFA2000. For more information on cross- Pére Mohiss. The Gîte d’Etape (%965 1642;
ing the border see p743. d incl breakfast CFA6600), owned by famous singer
Baaba Maal, is the only ‘proper’ guesthouse
Richard Toll in Podor. Its Senegalese food is better than
Richard Toll was once a colonial administra- the bare rooms.
tive centre and home to a French agricultural Sept-place taxis travel fairly regularly be-
experiment, who tested the tropical adapt- tween Podor and Saint-Louis (CFA3000, four
ability of European plants (hence the name hours, 262km), sometimes continuing all the
Richard Toll, meaning ‘Richard’s Garden’). way to Dakar. Sept-place taxis go to Ouro
Today, it’s the centre of Senegal’s sugar indus- Sogui (CFA4500, five hours, 222km); mini-
try. A stroll or horse-cart ride to the Château buses cost CFA2500 but take twice as long.
de Baron Roger, a crumbling colonial château is
a way to while away an hour or so. Matam & Ouro Sogui
CBAO (%963 32 89; Route de Matam) and BICIS Matam was once a proud administrative
(%963 3499; Route de Matam; hMon-Thu 7.45am- centre 230km southeast of Podor, but has
12.15pm & 1.40-3.45pm; 7.45am-1pm & 2.40-4.45pm Fri) over the years lost in status to its neighbour
banks have branches here, both equipped Ouro Sogui, which is now a busy trading cen-
with Visa-friendly ATMs, and there are a tre and transport hub for the Ferlo plains.
couple of internet cafés. Ouro Sogui has two banks with ATMs
Hôtel la Taouey (%531 4010; s/d CFA13,600/16,800; (though it’s not a good idea to rely too much
pa) on the river north of the main street, on them), a hospital, post office and even
has adequate though bare rooms, a friendly an aerodrome. Matam has a waterfront
bar and forthcoming management. The lined with several colonial warehouses –
Gîte d’Etape (%/fax 963 3240; s/d CFA25,400/28,800; testimonies of busy days gone by.
as), down a dirt road opposite the gare In Ouro Sogui, the cheapest accommo-
routière, is very well-appointed, though the dation is the Auberge Sogui (%966 1198; s/d
food disappoints. CFA8500/10,000; a) opposite the market, which
A direct sept-place from Dakar to Rich- has just-passable rooms. Your best choice,
ard Toll costs around CFA10,000. however, is the Oasis du Fouta (%966 1294;
[email protected]; s/d incl breakfast CFA13,500/15,000;
Podor & Île à Morphil ai), which has comfortable rooms with
The ancient town of Podor has been a busy TV, an Internet café and staff that tries to
trading centre since the first encounters be- accommodate your every excursion wish,
tween Arabs and the Tukulor of Fouta Toro. from pirogue journeys to trips into the
It’s home to an ancient fort, first built in mountains where El Hadj Omar Tall once
1744, then reconstructed by Faidherbe in battled French forces.
1854. It was in the early stages of restoration Food outside your hotel is pretty much
when we visited. There’s also a chain of co- limited to the cheap eateries in the same
lonial warehouses along the riverfront. street and the dibieteries (grilled-meat
Podor is the gate to excursions along stalls) spread across town. The best of those
the Île à Morphil, which stretches for 100km is probably Le Teddungal, where grilled-lamb
between the Senegal River and a parallel skewers only cost a handful of CFA.
channel. Rugged landscape, scenic Tukulor Battered sept-place taxis run to Dakar
villages and the historical Omarian mosques (CFA10,500, 10 hours, 690km) and Bakel
of Guédé and Alwar, built in Sudanese style, (CFA2000, two hours, 148km).
SENEGAL

makes this a great off-the-beaten track di-

version. Nearby is Wouro Madiyou, home to Bakel
the unique, mosaic-ornamented mauso- Peacefully perched among a scattering of
leum of Cheikh Ahmadou Madiyou. rocky hills, Bakel is a picturesque spot,
The Maison de la Femme (%965 1234; r CFA5000), though one that tourists rarely venture to.
run by an enthusiastic women’s collective is Like all of the northern towns it’s hot, dry
 720 E A S T E R N S E N E G A L • • Ta m b a c o u n d a www.lonelyplanet.com

and sandy, but it’s prettier than most. Its west to Ziguinchor. The town’s hectic load-
colonial architecture is still fairly intact. ing and unloading of taxis, and coming and
An 1854 fort, another ambitious Faidherbe going of people is well worth taking in for
endeavour, and the Pavilion René Caillé, once a day or so.
temporary home to the famous French ex-
plorer, have been fairly well maintained. Information
The barely held-together Hôtel Islam (r per Tambacounda has an Internet café, a well-
person CFA10,000; a) about 500m east of the stocked pharmacy and a SGBS (Ave Léopold Sédar
gare routière, is about your only choice of Senghor; h7.45-noon & 1.30-3.45pm Mon-Thu, 7.45-
accommodation. It has spartan rooms, and noon & 2.45-4.15 Fri), which can exchange cash
hardly inviting shared toilets. and give advances on credit cards. The
For food, it’s a trip to the market for Syndicat d’Initiative has a representative at
fresh produce, or ready-made sandwiches Hôtel Niji (%981 1250; [email protected]) and the
and skewered meat at the gargottes next Headquarters of Parc National du Niokolo-Koba
door. (%981 1097; h7.30am-5pm) can help with in-
If you come from Ouro Sogui on a vehicle quiries about the park, and also has 4WDs
bound for Kidira you might be dropped off for hire.
at the junction 5km south of Bakel, from
where local bush taxis shuttle into town. TAMBACOUNDA 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
A car mouride goes daily (except Fridays)
from Bakel to Tambacounda (CFA3500, A B

Ὀ
five hours, 184km) via Kidira (CFA1500, INFORMATION
Internet Café...............1 B3
EATING
Bar-Restaurant Chez
one hour, 60km). Pharmacy....................2 B4 Francis.....................7 B4
SGBS Bank...................3 B3 Best Burger..................8 A2
1 Chez Eva..................... 9 A2
Kidira SLEEPING Chez Nanette............ 10 A4
Bloc Gadec..................4 A4 La Hortencia.............. 11 A2
Kidira is the main border crossing between Hôtel Keur Khoudia.....5 A2 Le Relais du Rais........ 12 A2
Senegal and Mali. Both the Dakar–Bamako Hôtel Niji.....................6 B4 Libre Service Chez
Ibou Diop...............13 B3
train and bush taxis pass here. Note that the Patisserie Guèye and
road on the Malian side has been severely Public
Frères.................... 14 A2

washed out. For more details see p743. To Oasis Oriental

Garden
DRINKING
Club (800m); Complex Leggal Point..15 B2
Le Relais de Market

EASTERN SENEGAL
Tamba (1km)
TRANSPORT
2 11 Car Mouride Station.. 16 A2
Gare Routière............ 17 A4
Blvd Demba Diop
Police 15
It takes some courage to brave the seem- 5 12 14 8 9 Train Station

ingly endless stretch of potholed tarmac

Ave Léopold Senghor

To Gare Routière
that connects Dakar to Tambacounda in 16 for Transport to
Kidira (900m);
the east, but the road that leads through Headquarters of
Parc National du
flat savanna lands specked with shrubs Niokolo-Koba (1km);
13 Kidira (186km)
and baobabs takes you to one of Senegal’s
best-kept secrets – the mountainous Bassari Blvd Kandioura Noba
3
lands of the southeast. 3
1
Eastern Senegal is also home to Senegal’s
main wildlife reserve, the gigantic Parc
National du Niokolo-Koba, where you have River (seasonal)
a higher chance of seeing large mammals in
7
their natural surroundings than anywhere Some Minor Roads
else in the country. Not Depicted
SENEGAL

17
TAMBACOUNDA 2 6
Tambacounda is all about dust, sand, siz- 4
10
zling temperatures and lines of traffic head- 4

ing in every direction. From here, routes

To Airport (7km);
lead eastwards to Mali, south to Guinea, Vélingara (90km);
Kedougou (243km)
west to Dakar and The Gambia, and south-
Tambacounda
www.lonelyplanet.com EASTERN SENEGAL •• Parc National du Niokolo-Koba 721

Sleeping The Patisserie Guèye and Frères (Blvd Demba Diop)

Bloc Gadec (%531 8931; per person CFA3000) This next to Best Burger is the place to get your
friendly little hostel in the centre of town bread and croissants in the morning.
has spacious, clean rooms with shared toi-
lets. There are double or quad rooms. Getting There & Around
Hôtel Keur Khoudia (% /fax 981 1102; Blvd All taxi trips around town cost CFA300, no
Demba Diop; s/d CFA11,700/16,000; a) With spot- need to bargain.
less bungalows at decent prices and help-
ful management, this popular auberge is AIR
an excellent choice for those travelling on Air Sénégal International flies from Dakar
a budget. The Hotel Simenti in Niokolo- to Tambacounda, in theory twice every Sat-
Koba is run by the same family – so you’re urday from November to March. Contact
in perfect hands if you’re intending to visit the airline first, though, as flights can be
the park. quite irregular.
Hôtel Niji (%981 1259; [email protected]; s/d/tr
CFA11,200/14,00/16,700; a) This hotel has seen BUS & BUSH TAXI
better days, though the adjacent Hôtel Niji From the gare routière on the eastern side
Annexe, with its thatched, round houses in of town vehicles go to the Mali border at
a shady garden compound isn’t too bad, Kidira (CFA5000 by sept-place, CFA3500
and a more upmarket section was being by minibus, three hours). Vehicles to most
built when we visited. other destinations go from the larger garage
Le Relais de Tamba (%981 1000; www.relaisho on the southern side of town.
rizons.net; s/d/tr CFA22,200/27,200/36,600; pas) Vélingara is well-served by minibuses
The Relais hotel chain has a reputation for (CFA1400) and sept-places (CFA1650).
classy simplicity, and this branch has all the A sept-place journey Dakar–Tamba is
niceties of its other places. CFA7500, by minibus CFA6000. Tamba–
Oasis Oriental Club (%981 1824; rgueguen@sentoo Kedougou is CFA4800 by sept-place,
.sn; s/d/tr CFA25,000/32,000/40,000; pas ) Vélingara–Kaolack CFA4000.
Cheap it ain’t, but the large huts of this top- The car mouride bus leaves from outside
level campement are nice, and perhaps even the Car Mouride Station daily at 4.30am for
worth paying slightly exaggerated rates. Dakar (CFA5000, eight hours). You have
to reserve your place in advance at the of-
Eating & Drinking fice. There are also cars mourides from here
For good local food, the humble Le Relais du to Kedougou (CFA3000, three hours) and
Rais (meals around CFA1000), near the train station, Bakel (CFA3500, five hours).
is almost unbeatable. Chez Eva (Blvd Demba Diop)
and Chez Nanette (meals about CFA1500; h8am-mid- TRAIN
night), near the gare routière, are two other The train between Dakar and Bamako
good options. For greasy fast-food, try Best (Mali) normally passes through Tamba-
Burger (%981 3203; Blvd Demba Diop), which is counda on a Wednesday and Saturday,
also a popular hang-out of Tamba’s youth. provided there hasn’t been a derailment or
La Hortencia (Blvd Demba Diop) and Bar-Restaurant other impediment (see p743).
Chez Francis (%643 1231; Ave Léopold Senghor) have
good, international menus. PARC NATIONAL DU NIOKOLO-KOBA
For drinks and nights out on the dance The World Heritage site Niokolo-Koba,
floor, try Complex Leggal Pont (%981 7756; Blvd a vast biosphere reserve spanning about
Demba Diop; hrestaurant 8am-midnight, bar & nightclub 900,000 hectares, is Senegal’s major na-
11pm-4am), a slightly run-down version of an tional park. The landscape is relatively flat,
entertainment complex that also has a few with plains, marshes and a few hills – the
SENEGAL

rooms down the back. highest is Mt Assirik in the southeast. Vege-

Self-caterers will find all the fruit, veg and tation is spectacularly varied, with savanna
bags of rice they need at the local market. woodland and grassland, patches of bam-
In the centre of town, the Libre Service Chez boo and gallery forest along the rivers.
Ibou Diop (Ave Senghor) is a good place to find The Gambia River and its two tributaries,
European foods as well as a spot to mingle. the Niokolo-Koba and the Koulountou, cross
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Parc National de Niokolo-Koba

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
722 E A S T E R N S E N E G A L • • Pa r c N a t i o n a l d u N i o k o l o - K o b a www.lonelyplanet.com

ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
0 50 km
PARC NATIONAL DE NIOKOLO-KOBA 0 30 miles

To Missirah

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
(5km) 0 20 km To Dar Salam
0 12 miles (20km)
Badi

ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
N7
Gouloumbou Ga
m Grand
bi Mirador
a
Forêt de
Diambour Patte d'Oie

ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Gué Koba
ver

River
Gambia Ri Dar Salam Park
Dialakoto Entrance,
Campement & Camp du
Biodiversity Centre Simenti Lion
Rope Bridge
Hôtel de
Simenti
Diénoum Diala

See Enlargement

ὈὈὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
-
Niokolo Koba R Niokolo-Koba
ive
r
Ko

N7
lo
un

Niéménéki
to
u

Damantan Parc National de

Medina Niokolo-Koba Mt
Gounas Assirik
(311m)
Ri
ve

Mako
r

Vehicles cannot
Gué cross river here
Tomboronkoto
Koulountou

Dalaba Ga
mb
Gué ia River
Sambaïlo Oubadji
To Kedougou
Salémata (24km)
GUINEA To Koundara Tiankoye To Dindefelo (45km);
(30km) Kedougou (35km)

the vast wilderness, and are crucial sources The park was neglected until the early
of water for the 80 species of mammals and 1990s, and poaching has also been a prob-
350 bird varieties that inhabit the park. lem, but international funding for develop-
There are African classics such as lions, ment as part of the Parc Transfrontalier
also waterbucks, bushbucks, kobs, duikers, Niokolo-Badiar transnational ecosystem
baboons, monkeys (green and patas), wart- (which includes areas in neighbouring
hogs, roan antelopes, giant Derby elands, Guinea) has improved the situation slightly.
hartebeests and buffaloes. There are hippos Several NGOs are also working directly
and three types of crocodiles (Nile, slender- with the surrounding populations to help
snouted and dwarf), and chimpanzee troops conserve the resources found in the park,
inhabit parts of the eastern and southern such as the ronier trees and bamboo.
areas, though you’ll be lucky to see them. A glossy visitor guide is available at the
Not all of Niokolo-Koba’s enormous area park entrance, with a park map and illus-
is equally well maintained, and visitors to trations of some of the wildlife you might
the more far-flung corners have reported see. However, it’s in French and costs
woodcuttings and an eerie absence of wild- CFA6000.
life. The best part for animal-spotting is the
area of Simenti, the park’s jewel. Information
If you take the Tambacounda–Kedougou The park is officially open from 15 De-
route, you’re likely to see monkeys, birds, cember to 30 April, though you can visit
SENEGAL

porcupines and other animals cross the any time. You enter the park at Dar Salam,
road and lie on the tarmac – so be careful where you find a campement and the Bio-
if you’re driving. Just before dawn the road diversity Centre, which has an exhibition.
is especially full of animals, and there’s a An hour’s drive further on is Simenti, the
good chance you might spot a lion stretch- park’s main focus, where many animals are
ing out on the roadside. concentrated. There’s also a park office,
www.lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N S E N E G A L • • B a s s a r i C o u n t r y 723

visitor information centre and the large If you do rely on public transport, take a
Hôtel de Simenti. Kedougou minibus from Tamba (CFA4500)
Details about track conditions and other and get off at the Dar Salam park entrance.
aspects of the park can be obtained from the From there, you can call Hôtel de Simenti,
park headquarters (p720) in Tambacounda. who’ll pick you up (CFA25,000).
You must have a vehicle to enter the park,
and walking is not allowed, except near ac- BASSARI COUNTRY
commodation sites or in the company of a The far southeast corner of Senegal is often
park ranger. Travellers without a car can visit called Bassari country after the largest eth-
the park using public transport, taxis or on nic group, whose traditional way of life
an organised tour. All tracks, except those gives this region its particular character.
between the park gate and the Simenti area, Also, this is the only place in Senegal where
require a 4WD, even in the dry season. you can go mountain climbing. The striking
The entrance fee (adult/child under 10 landscape, with its craggy mountain paths,
CFA2000/free, vehicle CFA5000) gives you forests, plateaus and steep waterfalls has
access for 24 hours. Trained and approved much in common with the adjacent Fouta
guides can be hired at the gate or in Simenti Jallon region in neighbouring Guinea.
(per day CFA6000). It’s the perfect place for extended hiking
Several of Tambacounda’s hotels can tours along solitary paths through bushland,
organise some 4WD tours (CFA70,000 to passing occasionally through a tiny village.
CFA90,000). Rates usually include fuel, It’s advisable to walk with an experienced
driver/guide and admission for the car, guide who knows the area and local people
while you pay for your park fees, food and well. Don’t forget to bring change and even
accommodation. better, kola nuts, as a gesture of appreciation
for being allowed to visit the local villages.
Sleeping & Eating
At the park entrance, the Dar Salam Campe- Kedougou
ment (%981 2575; camping per tent CFA3500, d/tr Kedougou is the largest town in southeast
CFA7000/8000) has clean bungalows with Senegal, though this seems hard to believe
bathrooms and a good restaurant (dishes when you walk along the red, dusty roads
CFA3500). Most people stay at Hôtel de lined by lush greenery and traditional huts.
Simenti (% 982 3650; s/d 15,000/20,000; a ), a It has a colourful market, famous for its
concrete monstrosity that may not look in indigo fabrics imported from Guinea, sev-
touch with its surroundings, but sits in a eral télécentres, and Internet access (for a
prime spot overlooking the river. The busi- whopping CFA1500 per hour) at the Ke-
est animal sites are close to here, and you dougou Multi-Service. There is no bank.
can see many of them drinking and grazing Alimentation de Dioubo in Kedougou
from a nearby hide. centre is a well-stocked boutique and
Camp du Lion (camping per person CFA3500, a popular evening gathering place for
r CFA7000) is a tiny campement in a beautiful Kedougou’s youth.
spot beside the Gambia River 6km east of
Simenti. It has simple but adequate huts. SLEEPING
You can also walk to the nearby Pointe de There are plenty of campements to choose
Vue, where hippos and other animals can from. All arrange tours in the surrounding
be sighted drinking on the opposite bank area and to Parc National du Niokolo-Koba.
of the river. Note that in most places prices double for
air-con rooms.
Getting There & Away Campement Bantamba (Chez Moulaye; %558
You’re best off hiring a taxi (around 0154; r CFA8300; pa) A youth-run place that
SENEGAL

CFA35,000 to CFA40,000) or 4WD (around feels wonderfully remote, sitting at the edge
CFA60,000 to CFA70,000) in Tamba, for of town in a large garden by the river.
instance at the park headquarters. There’s Chez Diao (%985 1124; d CFA5400; a) A re-
also an official transfer between Hôtel Keur laxed spot with clean bungalows grouped
Khoudia in Tamba and Hôtel de Simenti around a leafy patio. Toilets are shared and
(CFA60,000). breakfast is CFA1000, meals CFA3000.
 724 E A S T E R N S E N E G A L • • B a s s a r i C o u n t r y www.lonelyplanet.com

Le Nieriko (%985 1459; d/tr CFA8600/12,600) At as the border post on the route to Kéniéba
the edge of town this tranquil place is a is unreliable.
good choice, with well-kept bungalows in By contrast, Guinea is well-served by
a spacious garden setting, and satellite TV transport (sept-place to Labe CFA15,000,
in the lounge for the bored. minibus CFA12,000, 24 to 48 hours). Taxis
Le Bedik (% 985 1000; s/d/tr incl breakfast leave in theory every day, though the best
CFA22,200/27,000/36,600; pas) A bit classier day to set off is Friday.
with comfortable, TV-equipped bungalows,
a tennis court and friendly management. GETTING AROUND
Almost all campements have one or sev-
EATING & DRINKING eral 4WDs with driver for hire (per day
All campements serve food, though most CFA40,000 to CFA50,000, and some hire
only on request. Otherwise it’s down to the bicycles (CFA3000), which are good for
cheap eateries around the market, such as town trips, but often too clapped-out for
Keur Niasse, near Chez Diao. The most up- trips into the hills.
market restaurant is the Nieta on the route
to Tamba, with simple meals and drinks Around Kedougou
served in a spacious, round hut. The best way of exploring Kedougou’s stun-
For an evening drink, try the Tour de Babel ning surroundings is a combination of driv-
or Black&White, both lively bar-nightclubs. ing (in a 4WD) and hiking – best under the
care of a good guide (see left).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
There’s plenty of traffic between Tamba and THE KEDOUGOU–SALÉMATA ROUTE
Kedougou (sept-place CFA4800, minibus One of the nearest villages is Bandafassi,
CFA3500, four hours). There’s no regular actually the capital of Kedougou district.
public transport to Mali, but occasional in- The inhabitants are mainly Fula and Bas-
trepid overland drivers go this way. Com- sari, and the village is renowned for its
plete all your exit formalities in Kedougou, basket-makers. In Indar, a part of Banda-
fassi, is the wonderfully welcoming campe-
ment Chez Leontine (%554 9915; d CFA6000), with
GUIDED WALKS solar-powered lights and delicious meals
The company of a clued-up guide is invalu- prepared by the charming owner.
able for exploring the myriad mountain The Fula village of Ibel lies another 7km
paths of Bassari country. Two of the best up the road from Bandafassi. Visits here are
guides in the region are Noumou Diallo usually, and rewardingly, combined with a
and Amadou Ba, who have their base at steep hike up to Iwol, a stunningly beautiful
the Le Bedik (see p723; phone the recep- hamlet stretched out between a giant from-
tion and ask for them) in Kedougou. They ager tree and a sacred baobab. Plenty of leg-
come from the area, know the best routes ends are associated with this place, and the
through the hills, and have a good relation- local teacher will share them with you for a
ship with the villagers, which will make donation (CFA1000). The local women make
you – the visiting stranger – much more pottery, which you can buy (CFA300).
welcome. (It remains up to you though Continuing west from Ibel, you reach
to show the proper respect, and perhaps Salémata, 83km from Kedougou. This is a
present kola nuts, money and small gifts to regional hub, with a health centre, small
the chefs de village or village chiefs.) shops and the friendly campement Chez Gil-
They can arrange anything from leisurely bert (%985 5009; d/tr CFA8000/9000). In April and
day trips to strenuous hikes of several days May, the entire region surrounding Salé-
through the forests, mountains and tiny mata is plunged into week-long festivities
SENEGAL

Bedik and Bassari villages, with the possi- during the annual initiation ceremonies of
bility of sleeping in the homes of locals or at the Bassari. Observers are accepted, but you
campements. They usually charge CFA10,000 might want to decline and leave the villag-
per day, rates for longer excursions need ers to follow their custom undisturbed. The
to be negotiated. best day to visit is Tuesday, when the lumo
(weekly market) brings the village to life,
www.lonelyplanet.com C A S A MA N C E • • H i s t o r y 725

and with it a better chance of public trans- Kafountine and Abéné, only broken by a
port (minibus from Kedougou CFA2250, mangrove-lined delta where the Casamance
four hours). River spills into the Atlantic.
Don’t leave Salémata without taking the Over the last decades, the region has
15km trip to Ethiolo, either on foot or by unfortunately become better known for an
car. The road leads mainly through forest ongoing separatist rebellion than its attrac-
and bushland, and there’s a good chance of tive landscape. At the time of writing, a 2004
spotting chimpanzees in the trees. Ethiolo’s peace deal signed between the Senegalese
brilliant Campement Chez Balingo (%985 1401) government and insurgents had calmed
has accommodation in traditional Bassari things down, and tourists had started return-
stone huts, and is run by the enthusiastic and ing to the region. The most exciting sign of
knowledgeable Balingo, who can take you on this was the renovation of several campe-
exciting tours to Ethiolo’s surroundings. ments villageois, the rural, village-managed
lodgings that are typical of the Casamance.
DINDEFELO
One of the most popular destinations from History
Kedougou is Dindefelo, famous for its im- In the 19th and early 20th centuries, the
pressive 100m waterfall with a deep, green French colonial authorities controlled the
pool suitable for swimming. It’s a 2km hike territory through local chiefs. In Casamance,
through lush forest from Dindefelo vil- however, the Diola people do not have a
lage to the cascade. The starting point is hierarchical society and thus had no rec-
the campement villageois (%658 8707; r per person ognised leaders. The French installed Man-
CFA3000), which has accommodation in well- dinka chiefs to administer the Diola, but they
kept huts. You pay CFA500 for admission to were resented as much as the Europeans, and
the waterfall at the campement (the money Diola resistance against foreign interference
goes to the village, just check out the solar- remained very strong well into the 1930s.
powered street lamps). Much less visited is In 1943, the last Diola rebellion against the
the village of Dande, on the hill above Dinde- French was led by traditional priestess, Aline
felo, but if you love steep climbs, don’t miss Sitoe Diatta, from Kabrousse. The rebellion
out on this spectacular hike. From here, was put down and Aline Sitoe was impris-
you can visit the source of the waterfall and oned at the remote outpost of Timbuktu in
stand scarily close to the edge (don’t go here Mali, where she eventually died.
without a guide, the deep drop is hidden by The conflict that has plagued the region
some innocent-looking shrubs). for nearly the last 25 years originated from
If you rely on public transport, go to Din- a pro-independence demonstration held in
defelo on a Sunday, the day of the lumo (mini- Ziguinchor in 1982, after which the leaders
bus CFA700, two hours). But a hired 4WD of the Mouvement des Forces Démocra-
really is the best thing; the road is no fun, a tique de la Casamance (MFDC) were ar-
punctured minibus wheel much less so. rested and jailed. Over the next few years
the army clamped down with increasing

CASAMANCE severity, but this only galvanised the local

people’s anti-Dakar feelings and spurred
the movement into taking more action.
The Casamance is one of Senegal’s most In 1990, the MFDC went on the offen-
beautiful regions, with lush tropical land- sive and attacked military posts. The army
scapes, myriad waterways and the unique responded by attacking MFDC bases in
culture of the Diola, the largest ethnic southern Casamance and over the border
group of the region. The Casamance River in Guinea-Bissau, which had been giving
winds its way through the area in a laby- covert support to the rebels following a
SENEGAL

rinth of picturesque creeks lined with abun- coastal territorial dispute with Senegal. As
dant estuary vegetation – a pirogue is the always, it was local civilians who came off
ideal means of exploring the waterway. On the worst, with both the Senegalese army
the western coast, Senegal’s finest beaches and the MFDC accused of committing
spread in a wide strip of white sand from atrocities against people who were thought
Cap Skiring towards the ‘hip’ villages of to be sympathetic to the opposite side.
 Casamance
726 C A S A MA N C E www.lonelyplanet.com

0 10 km
CASAMANCE 0 6 miles

To Serekunda (30km);
Banjul (45km) THE GAMBIA

Darsilami

Séléti

Kartong Néma

Diouloulou

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
OCEAN

Kabadio

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Campements

ïla
Ba

Ὀ
4WD Only

de
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ot
ATLANTIC

rig
Sindian
Abéné

Ma
Diannah
N5

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Kagnarou

Kafountine

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Baïla
Sanctuaire

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Ornithologique
de Kassel
Tiobon Tendième
Kagnobon

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Diégoune Bignona

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
N4
Casamance Nord
Presqu'ile
To Badiouré
Diouloulou

des Oiseaux
(2km); Dakar

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Tionk-Essil (425km)
aye
Sanctuaire liss
Ornithologique de la Ka

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Pointe de Kalissaye
Tendouk N4
de
ot
rig

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Ma

Marigot

Mangagoulak

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Koubalan
Tobor

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
Affiniam Barrage
r Pointe
ve St George
Ri

ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ce Djilapao Île des
an Oiseaux
m Bandial
sa
Ca
To Dakar
Diogué Ziguinchor
N6
(500km) M'Lomp
Carabane

Ὀ
Etama To Sédhiou;
Nikine Kagnout Kolda (188km)
Île de Séleki Brin
Carabane Essil
Loudia N4
Ouolof
Elinkine Enampor
Kamoubeul Toubacouta
Oussouye Edioungou
Oukout Nyassia
Diembéring Diohère Mpak
Diakène Niambalang
Ouolof
Diakène
Diola Basse Casamance

Boucoutte Parc National Kaguite São Domingos

SENEGAL

de Basse-
Casamance To Ingore (40km);
Youtou Bissau (120km)
Santiaba
Cap Skiring Mandjak

Kabrousse
GUINEA-BISSAU
www.lonelyplanet.com C A S A MA N C E • • Z i g u i n c h o r 727

TO GO OR NOT TO GO?
It’s the nature of news that you hear more about killing than about living, and in the case of
Casamance good news is hard to find. This means that the vast majority of Senegalese know little
more than yourself about the current situation in the Casamance and their view of the region’s
security may be as obscured as your own.
Anybody we spoke to in the Casamance assured us that travelling to the area was perfectly
safe, but you do need to be extra vigilant. The most important thing is not to be travelling on
the roads at night, particularly in the areas near Guinea-Bissau and the route from Ziguinchor
via Bignona to Kafountine. There have been occasional carjackings and ambushes at roadblocks,
usually put up by armed bandits, rather than separatists defending the rebel cause. Alarm bells
rang when, in 2006, the deputy prefect of Diouloulou was assaulted at one of these roadblocks,
and later lost his life. These attacks are rare, but they do occur, so make sure you give yourself
enough time to arrive at your destination before nightfall.
At the time of writing, conflicts between rebels and Bissau-Guinean military had flared up in
a small area near the border with Guinea-Bissau, resulting in the temporary suspension of public
transport and the closure of the border in Sã Domingos. These kinds of confrontations have become
rare since 2004, but you always need to check security advice, listen to the locals and give conflict
areas a wide berth. In Ziguinchor you can ask at your hotel, but a more grass-roots picture may
be gleaned by talking to bush-taxi drivers: if they are reluctant to go, you should be too.
During the two weeks we travelled through the Casamance, visiting remote villages as well as
major tourist centres, we didn’t experience any difficulties whatsoever. By contrast, the hospitality
of the people and their eagerness to welcome foreign visitors back into their region and help
tourists to travel safely were impressive and moving. Casamance used to be one of Senegal’s
major tourist destinations, and for most people, the suffering is greater for the lack of tourists
and their dollars than any direct confrontation with separatist fighters.
The only real permanent no-go zone is the Parc National de Basse-Casamance, which has been
closed for years because of suspected land mines. Rest assured that unless you just wander off
on your own accord, people will simply not allow you to get too close to trouble.

As the ’90s wore on, cease-fire agree- prisoners, the return of refugees and the
ments were signed and broken as periods clearance of landmines, it fell short of the
of peace repeatedly ended in violence. In full autonomy many rebels sought. Divisions
1995, four French people touring Casa- within the MFDC deepened; a bloody battle
mance disappeared. The Senegalese gov- was fought between two opposing factions
ernment blamed the MFDC, while Father and many in Casamance had begun refer-
Diamacoune Senghor, the MFDC’s leader, ring to some of the rebels as bandits or com-
accused the army of trying to turn inter- mon thieves. Things have become calmer
national opinion against the rebels. since, and the 2004 peace deal appears to
Peace talks continued, but following the have been effective, though occasional upris-
government’s refusal to consider independ- ings and street ambushes still occur.
ence for Casamance, a group of hardliners
broke away from the MFDC and resumed ZIGUINCHOR
fighting. pop 217,000
Meanwhile, Father Diamacoune urged his Ziguinchor (pronounced zig-an-shor) is the
supporters to continue the search for rec- largest town in southern Senegal, as well as
onciliation with the government. Another the main access point for travel in the Casa-
cease-fire was agreed in late 1997 but it did mance region. It’s hard to imagine a more
SENEGAL

little to slow the mounting death toll, and laid-back town than this regional capital –
during the following three years about 500 just don’t call it sleepy. Unlike other ‘junc-
people were reportedly killed. His author- tion towns’, Ziguinchor has real atmosphere,
ity fading, Father Diamacoune unexpectedly couched among the majestic houses, leafy
signed a peace deal in March 2001. While streets and busy markets of this old colonial
the agreement provided for the release of administrative centre.
 728 C A S A MA N C E • • Z i g u i n c h o r www.lonelyplanet.com

Information both wi-fi spaces, and the Alliance Franco-

BOOKSHOPS Sénégalaise has a speedy Internet café.
The bookshop (h9am-noon & 2.30-6pm) on the Sud-Informatique (%991 1573; www.sudinfo.sn; per
northern end of Rue Javelier has a few hr CFA1000; h9am-midnight)
English-language magazines. Web City (%991 1044; per hr CFA1000; h10am-
midnight)
CULTURAL CENTRES
Alliance Franco-Sénégalaise (%991 2823; Ave Lycée MEDICAL SERVICES
Guignabo; h9.15am-noon & 3-7.15pm Mon-Sat) This Ziguinchor’s regional hospital (%991 1154)
stunning case à impluvium (large round hut) has regular has an emergency department. Veronique
exhibitions, a large concert hall and a café. Tourists are Chiche at Le Flamboyant hotel can recom-
expected to make a donation of CFA750 when visiting the mend other reliable doctors in town.
centre, and are given a postcard of the centre in exchange.
MONEY
INTERNET ACCESS The following banks change money, give
There are many cybercafés in town. Le Flam- advances on credit cards and have ATMs
boyant hotel and Hôtel Kadiandoumagne are taking Visa and MasterCard.
0 500 m
ZIGUINCHOR 0 0.3 miles

To Dakar
A 23 B (550km) C To Banjul (150km); D
34 Dakar (450km)
Rue

Ὀ
du Com
merc 16 21 15 19 26
Rue e 32 25
du G 27 Casamance River
énéra
er
o

oine

l de Rue es
Diall

Fargu
Javeli

29 Ga ulle
1
Lem

5
iaba
Rue

1
Rue

11 28 31
4 3
Rue
anth

20
ne

2
dia

Rue 7
de S
e

de T 17 6 To Porte
Ba

Post

Some Minor Roads ruch 18

Not Depicted 30 Rue Sangamar
ile

de F
Rue

rance (500m)
Em

de la

24
otte
e
Av

Rue
ouc

10 Ave
Rond-Point Carv 33 Stadium Aline
alho
de B

Jean-Paul II Sitoe Diatta

8
Rue

To Hôtel Tahiti (1km);

2 ra
da São Domingos (30km) To Velingara (310km);
iatt
a Ai (Guinea-Bissau border) Tambacounda (400km)
ard
D hir
u Bac
Edo erif 14 SLEEPING
Blvd Ch
Ave 22 Auberge Casafrique ..................14 C2
Hôtel Aubert...............................15 B1
To Auberge Aw-Bay
(500m); Ferme de Hôtel Kadiandoumagne..............16 B1
Djibelor (5km); Hôtel N'Daary Kassoum ............17 C1
Cap Skiring (45km) Hôtel Tourisme...........................18 C1
Le Bombolong ...........................19 C1
Ave Emile Badiane

Le Flamboyant............................20 C1
Le Perroquet...............................21 B1
Relais de Santhiaba....................22 C2
13
n)
tio

EATING
via

3
l'A

Hôtel Tourisme .......................(see 18)

de

Le Erobon ..................................23 B1
te
ou

Le Kassa.....................................24 C1
12
(R

Le Palmier..................................25 C1
INFORMATION Marché Escale............................26 C1
Ave Lycée Guignabo

Bookshop.....................................1 C1 Pâtisserie....................................27 C1
CBAO Bank..................................2 C1 Superette...................................28 C1
Diatta Tour International .............3 C1
Post Office....................................4 B1 DRINKING
SGBS Bank...................................5 C1 L'Abondance..............................29 B1
9
Sud-Informatique.........................6 C1 Walkunda Bar & Salon du Thé....30 C1
Web City......................................7 C1
SENEGAL

ENTERTAINMENT
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Le Bombolong Nightclub .........(see 19)
4
Africa Batik..................................8 C2 Le Rubis.....................................31 C1
Alliance Franco-Sénégalaise.........9 B4
To Hospital (1km); Cathedral...................................10 B2 TRANSPORT
Airport (1km); Gouvernance..............................11 B1 Boat to Dakar & Ticket Office.....32 C1
Air Sénégal Marché Artisanal........................12 B3 Gare Routière............................ 33 D2
International
Office (1km) Marché St-Maur.........................13 B3 Pirogues to Affiniam...................34 B1

Ziguinchor
www.lonelyplanet.com C A S A MA N C E • • Z i g u i n c h o r 729

CBAO (Rue de France; h7.45am-noon & 1.15-2.30pm Auberge Casafrique (%991 4122; casafrique@
Mon-Thu, 7.45am-1pm & 2.45-3.45pm Fri) yahoo.fr; off Ave Cherif Bachir Aidara; s/d CFA5000/7000,
SGBS (Rue du Général de Gaulle; h7.45am-noon & with bathroom CFA8000/10,000; a) The spartan
1.15-2.30pm Mon-Thu, 7.45am-1pm & 2.45-3.45pm Fri) rooms in a leafy garden seem to appeal
mainly to young travellers.
POST
Main post office (Rue du Général de Gaulle) MIDRANGE
Le Perroquet (%991 2329; [email protected]; Rue du
TRAVEL AGENCIES Commerce; s/d CFA10,000/12,000) This simple place
Diatta Tour International (%991 2781; aessibye@ right on the river and beside the pirogue pier
yahoo.fr; Rue du Général de Gaulle) A good agency, that ar- is excellent value. For 1st-floor rooms with
ranges air tickets, tours, hotel and campement reservations. river views you pay an extra CFA1000.
Hôtel Tahiti (%991 5949; [email protected];
Sights & Activities s/d incl breakfast CFA15,600/18,200; a) It’s placed
Ziguinchor has some colourful historical in a strangely unattractive location in front
buildings, including the central post office, of a military camp. But its well-kept rooms,
the office of Diatta Tour International, the Gou- equipped with TV, fridge and phone, make
vernance (Rue du Général de Gaulle) and the stunning this a viable option.
Cathedral. Still on the architectural side, the Hôtel N’Daary Kassoum (%991 1472; ndaary@
huge case à impluvium of the Alliance Franco- hotmail.com; Rue de France; d CFA12,000; a) With their
Sénégalaise offers plenty of interest – from the dark décor and rattling air-conditioning,
mosaic floors to the Ndebele patterns painted rooms don’t exactly feel welcoming, but
all across the walls and ceiling. Not far from then again, they’re fairly cheap, too.
there, the Marché Artisanal and the Marché St- Le Flamboyant (% 991 2223; flamboyant@
Maur, both on Ave Lycée Guignabo, tempt casamance.net; Rue de France; s/d CFA15,000/17,000;
with wooden carvings, fabrics and, more or- ais) This classy place is possibly the
dinarily, with fresh fruit and vegetables. best value in the country. The tranquil
Heading 5km west out of town, you can rooms with red-brick floors and comfy
walk through the vast greenness of the mattresses come with phone, satellite TV,
Ferme de Djibelor (%991 1701; admission CFA2000; bar fridge and soothing lighting, and are
h9am-6pm), which has a tropical fruit and set in a quiet garden. The French couple
flower garden and a crocodile farm. who runs it are absolutely forthcoming and
Africa Batik (%9911 2689; near Rond-Point Jean- knowledgeable, and oh yes, the whole place
Paul II) offers batik-making courses of vary- is a wi-fi zone.
ing duration.
Most hotels offer pirogue excursions – day TOP END
trips to Affiniam are particularly popular. Hôtel Kadiandoumagne (%938 8000; www.hotel
-kadiandoumagne.com; Rue du Commerce; s/d CFA22,000/
Sleeping 25,000; ais) Stunningly located right
BUDGET on the river, this top-quality place has good
Le Bombolong (%938 8001; off Rue du Commerce; rooms, wi-fi access in the restaurant, and
r CFA8000) This simple place with a leafy court- stunning views from the spacious terrace.
yard is best known for its nightclub – a relaxed It’s wheelchair accessible.
place to stay, but not for light sleepers. Hôtel Aubert (%938 8020; [email protected];
Hôtel Tourisme (%991 2223; Rue de France; s/d Rue Fargues; d/tr CFA22,000/30,000; ais) Part
CFA6600/8200) Four simple, clean rooms, in of Ziguinchor’s upper class of hotels, this
the heart of town, and above a great res- is a tastefully laid-out place, complete with
taurant – it’s a bargain. Managed by the a sports centre and jazz bar.
owners of Le Flamboyant, it benefits from
SENEGAL

their vast regional knowledge. Eating & Drinking

Relais de Santhiaba (% 991 1199; off Ave The best restaurants, and those with the
Cherif Bachir Aidara; s/d CFA5000/8000, with bathroom widest range of choices, are part of the ho-
CFA9000/13,000; a) It looks drab from the out- tels, otherwise try one of these.
side, but rooms are surprisingly welcoming Hôtel Tourisme (hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm; mains
and facilities are clean. around CFA3000) This place doesn’t actually
 730 C A S A MA N C E • • Z i g u i n c h o r www.lonelyplanet.com

look like much during the day but after Destination Sept- Minibus Ndiaga
sunset the subtle mood lighting lends Place Ndiaye
this restaurant some style. Head here for
some great seafood dishes and al dente Bissau 6000 - -
spaghetti. Cap Skiring 1400 1100 1000
Le Erobon (%991 2788; Rue du Commerce) This Dakar 7500 6000 5000
humble outdoor eatery serves a mean Elinkine 1300 850 850
grilled fish in a relaxed environment. Kafountine 2500 1700 1600
Le Palmier (%936 8181; Rue du Commerce; dishes Kaolack 5500 3800 -
from CFA1000; h24hr) Not the most attractive Kolda 3500 - -
address, but this cheapie near the port Séléti 2200 - -
serves good Senegalese, Guinean and Casa- Soma 2500 - -
mance specialities. Tambacounda 7500 - -
Le Kassa (%936 8300; h8am-2am) This is the
most inviting of the local-style places – a BOAT
spacious restaurant-cum-bar, with a fairly At the time of writing, a reliable and
wide menu and frequent live shows on comfortable boat service had just started
weekends. travelling between Dakar and Ziguinchor.
Walkunda Bar & Salon du Thé (%991 1845; There’s a sad background for all this unex-
h9am-1am) This pretty place near the Rond- pected comfort though. The current boat
Point serves drinks at very reasonable rates, (the Wilis, though it could well be a dif-
as well as filling meals. ferent one by the time you travel) resumed
L’Abondance (Rue du Général de Gaulle; h5pm- in 2005 the journey previously performed
2am) Like any dibiterie worth its meat, this by the MS Joola, which tragically capsized
is the popular final stop after a night out in 2002, in the worst catastrophe Senegal
dancing. had ever experienced. Almost 2000 people
Self-caterers can buy all the fresh fruit perished in the fatal accident (only 64 of the
and vegetables they can carry at the Marché passengers were rescued), which was caused
Escale (Rue Javelier). There’s a small supermar- by dangerous overloading of the boat.
ket (Rue Lemoine) and a good patisserie (Rue The accident was a shocking wake-up
Javelier). call and has now made the Joola’s successor
the Wilis one of the safest passenger boats
Entertainment of the region, where all essential measures
Le Rubis (Rue de Santhiaba; admission CFA1000-2000) are respected.
was Ziguinchor’s most fashionable dance In Dakar, the SOMAT ticket office (Map p684;
floor when we headed into town. They %889 8009, 889 8060/51), is located next to the
spin salsa music on Fridays and a global Gorée Ferry; while in Ziguinchor, you’ll
mix of hip-hop, R&B, mbalax and plenty find it at the port. The boat departs from
more on Wednesdays and Saturdays. An- Dakar every Tuesday and Friday at 7pm,
other popular heaving choice in town is Le returning from Ziguinchor every Sunday
Bombolong Nightclub (Rue du Commerce; admission and Thursday at 2pm. In Dakar, you need
CFA1000-2000). to arrive at least 1½ hours in advance; in
Ziguinchor at least one hour. Tickets cost
Getting There & Away CFA15,500 for an armchair, CFA23,500 for
AIR a sleeper seat and CFA28,500 for a cabin
Air Sénégal International (%991 1081) has an bed (cabins sleep four people). Residents
office at the airport and flies daily to Dakar pay CFA5000 less, children under 12 travel
(one way CFA80,000). for half the price, and free if they’re younger
than four.
SENEGAL

BUSH TAXI, MINIBUS & BUS

Ziguinchor’s extremely well-organised gare Getting Around
routière is 1km east of the centre. If you TAXI
want to get all the way to Dakar, get there The official rate for a taxi around town or to
early, around 6am or even earlier. Some the gare routière (1km) is CFA400. The main
sample fares (in CFA): taxi rank is at Rond-Point Jean-Paul II.
www.lonelyplanet.com C A S A MA N C E • • B a s s e C a s a m a n c e 731

VILLAGE CAMPEMENTS
Among Casamance’s attractions are its campements villageois (village camps), traditional-style
lodgings often in remote locations, that are built by local residents, integrated into the village
and, best of all, benefit the local community directly. The campements have existed since the
1970s, when Adama Goudiaby and Christian Saglio initiated them as a way of counteracting the
rural exodus and offering prospects to local youth. Ten were built originally, yet during the years
of conflict, many were left in ruins. Over the last few years, the Fédération des Campements Vil-
lageois (FECAV) has, with financial help from the Alliance Française and German GTZ, been able
to begin an ambitious renovation programme.
At the time this book was researched, the campements of Oussouye, Enampor, Baïla, Koulaban
and Affiniam had been fully restored, so spectacularly, that some of them exceed any competing
private ventures in quality and service. All of them are built in traditional architectural styles
(the case à impluvium in Enampor and case étage in Oussouye are particularly impressive), and
offer insightful excursions in the immediate surroundings led by knowledgeable local guides.
Integrated and respectful rural tourism is rarely more enjoyable.
The prices of all Campements Villageois are standardised, with only small variations. A bed
(with mosquito net) is CFA3000, breakfast CFA1500 to CFA1800, three-course lunch or dinner
CFA2500 to CFA3500, beer CFA800 and soft drink CFA500.
For more information, particularly regarding renovation progress of other campements, contact
Mr Sane at the Fédération des Campements Villageois (FECAV; %991 1268, 558 1421).

BASSE CASAMANCE is one of the great success stories of the

Enampor rekindling of the regional tourist industry.
The Campement Villageois (%441 4484, 936 9160; Accommodation is in a beautifully restored
r per person CFA3000) is a huge case à impluvium, case étage, built entirely in the stunning,
a typical Casamance architectural style, heat-busting mud-architecture once typical
where rainwater is funnelled into a large of the region. Another big plus: the resident
tank in the centre of the house through a guide Jean Baptiste, who is deeply familiar
hole in the roof. There are many such build- with the region and all too happy to share
ings around, but this is one of the most his knowledge. Campement Emanaye (%993
beautiful examples. 1004; [email protected]; s/d CFA4500/6000) is another
In theory, there are two minibuses per striking two-storey, mud dwelling that
day from Ziguinchor to Enampor and houses good-quality rooms with bathrooms
nearby Séleki (CFA500). Hiring a taxi will and great views over the local rice fields.
set you back CFA7000 to CFA9000. Other At the more basic Auberge du Routard (%993
than that, it’s a bush taxi to Brin and a long 1025; r per person CFA3000) you can sometimes see
walk or bicycle ride to Enampor. batiks being made, or even participate.
For food, Le Kassa (Chez Odette; %563 7186;
Oussouye dishes around CFA1000) and Le Passager (%512 0243;
Roughly halfway between Ziguinchor and meals around CFA1500) are good options, both
Cap Skiring, relaxed Oussouye is the main serving deer.
town in the Basse Casamance area. For the
local Diola population this town is of sig- GETTING THERE & AWAY
nificance, as it’s home to an animist king All bush taxis between Ziguinchor and Cap
who is often sought for advice. Skiring pass through Oussouye. Rates to
At Casamance VTT (Chez Benjamin; %/fax 993 the half-way point Oussouye are usually
1004; http://casavtt.free.fr) you can hire moun- around CFA1000.
SENEGAL

tain bikes (half-day CFA4000, full-day

CFA7500) and participate in tours. M’Lomp
On what is allegedly a sealed road between
SLEEPING & EATING Oussouye and Elinkine you’ll pass through
The Campement Villageois d’Oussouye (%993 the village of M’Lomp, the best place to
0015; http://campement.oussouye.org; s/d CFA4500/6000) admire the local cases étages (two-storey,
 732 C A S A MA N C E • • B a s s e C a s a m a n c e www.lonelyplanet.com

mud-brick houses). An enormous fromager tropical garden. You’ll have the honour to
tree, at least 400 years old and sacred in the stay in what used to be the colonial govern-
village, towers above the first case étage. ance, and enjoy your drink in the former
Decent food in a welcoming setting can Catholic mission.
be found at Les Six Palmiers (%569 9058; meals Chez Helena (%654 1772; s/d CFA4000/6000) If
CFA500-1000; h8am-11pm). To get here, ask for the rooms were as pretty as the gleaming
Chez Brigitte, and any local can give you restaurant terrace, this would be a fantas-
directions. tic place to stay. But they’re not, although
boisterous manager Helena will try to make
Elinkine you forget the ugly lino floors and curious
The busy fishing village Elinkine is the best assembly of furniture by wrapping you up
jumping-off point for Île de Karabane. The in sparkling conversation.
simple but charming Campement le Fromager Leliba (%544 5108; www.bamboocollege.ne; r per per-
(%525 6401; s/d CFA3000/6000) has been rebuilt son CFA4000) Furthest along the beach, this busy
after having been burnt to the ground a little campement offers workshops in dance,
few years ago, and now offers good, basic music and crafts, and even houses a small
accommodation and a vast range of excur- recording studio. It’s a place that’ll appeal to
sions. Mammadou Ndiaye, the welcoming those keen to learn about the local culture.
manager, has spent several decades in the
local tourist industry – this is your chance GETTING THERE & AWAY
to tap into his vast regional knowledge. Île de Karabane is best reached by motor-
There are normally several Ndiaga ised pirogue from Elinkine. A fairly regu-
Ndiayes each day from Ziguinchor to lar navette (boat) leaves Elinkine daily at
Elinkine, via Oussouye for CFA850, or from 2.30pm and 5pm, reaching Île de Karabane
Oussouye for CFA300. half an hour later before continuing to the
village of Diogé. It returns at 10am the next
Île de Karabane day. The fare is CFA1000. Alternatively you
It’s hard to believe that the tranquil Île de Ka- can charter a boat for about CFA10,000
rabane was the first French trading station in each way, just ask at the harbour. If you
the region (1836–1900). The French legacy is know where you’ll be staying, your campe-
now ruins, but you can still see the crumbling ment can also arrange to pick you up for a
remains of a tall Breton-style church and a fee. A hired pirogue from Cap Skiring will
school. Further along the beach lies the so- cost around CFA30,000 to CFA40,000.
called Catholic cemetery with the graves of
French settlers and sailors. The beach is good Cap Skiring
for swimming (and occasionally dolphin Considering the awesome beauty of Cap
spotting), and the mangroves surrounding Skiring’s beaches, the tourism industry of
the island are great for bird-watching tours. the area is still surprisingly low-key. A hand-
ful of resort-style hotels attract European
SLEEPING & EATING package tours, but all along the beachfront
The following places are listed from east to you will also find small campements appeal-
west. All serve food. Always leave a message ing to independent travellers. Off the beaten
if you don’t get an answer on any of the num- track this is not, but if you want a few easy
bers given – mobile coverage isn’t great. days of sun and sand, with the option of a
Campement le Barracuda (%659 6001; r CFA3000, bit of partying after hours, this is the place.
with half board CFA7300) With its pretty rooms
with bathrooms, forthcoming management INFORMATION
and excellent restaurant, this is probably the Cap Skiring has a small hospital, a post of-
most commendable place on the island. It’s fice and several télécentres in the centre of
SENEGAL

definitely the best address for bird-watching the village. The CBAO bank in the village has
and angling excursions, whether you’re ex- an ATM that accepts Visa cards. Diatta Tours
perienced or first-time rod-holder. (%991 2781; [email protected]) is as close as you
Hôtel Carabane (%569 0284; hotelcarabane@yahoo get to a local tourist-information office, and
.fr; s/d CFA13,000/18,000) This delightful and well- is the place to book tours around the area.
maintained hotel is set in a lush and shady Net’s Cap (%993 5371; [email protected]; h9am-
www.lonelyplanet.com C A S A MA N C E • • B a s s e C a s a m a n c e 733

10pm) is one of the fastest and best-equipped Rooms are as welcoming as the friendly
Internet cafés in the entire country. management, and for an extra CFA2000 per
night you even get hot water.
SLEEPING Les Bougainvilliers (%993 5129; d CFA20,000;
You’ll find accommodation for all budgets ai) At the time of research, this was
in Cap Skiring, most of it overlooking the still a brilliant restaurant with eight nearly
beach and offering all the associated facili- finished rooms at the back. If the character
ties and activities you’d expect, though with and quality of the eatery are anything to go
greatly differing quality and prices. by, this will be very nice indeed.

Budget Top End

Just south of the junction is a sandy track La Maison Bleue (%993 5161; www.lamaisonbleue.sn;
that stretches along the beach. All the r per person CFA30,8000) This luxurious place oozes
campements listed here are situated there. sophistication, from the subdued colour
Campement Paradise (%993 5129; r with/without scheme and Moroccan-style lounge to the
bathroom CFA12,000/6000; a) If you’re spending mosaic-tiled swimming pool. Massages and
your holiday on a beachfront, you’re un- beauty treatments are on offer, too. During
likely to spend much time in your room – the low season, prices drop by almost 50%.
so who cares if it’s a little basic? The garden Hôtel la Paillote (%993 5151; www.paillote.sn;
surrounding the bungalows invites loung- s/d CFA52,000/74,000; ais) This hotel has
ing and gives access to the beach. been here the longest, and spoils visitors
Campement Chez M’Ballo (%936 9102; r with/with- the best. For a luxurious stay with access
out bathroom CFA7500/4000) Possibly the pick of the to a supreme range of activities and services
cheap places on this strip, M’Ballo is a good- (including tailoring, golf, tennis, beauty
value option with a relaxed and friendly at- treatments, pirogue excursions and plenty
mosphere. Palm trees fight for space in this more), this is your ideal holiday home.
pretty plot of green, and the restaurant gives Les Hibiscus (%993 5136; [email protected]; s/d
great views across the beach, incl breakfast CFA19,900/28,800) Right on the bor-
Noopalou Coussene (Chez Bruno Diatta; %/fax 993 der of Guinea-Bissau near Kabrousse is this
5130; www.casamance-peche.org; r per person with half classy hotel in lush gardens on the beach,
board CFA15,000) This is a simple but excellent where comfortable bungalows are decorated
place, specialising in fishing excursions. Ac- with stunning murals and local fabrics.
commodation is in spotless rooms or self-
catering bungalows. EATING & DRINKING
Auberge de la Paix (%993 5145; aubergedelapaix@ Cap Skiring village has a whole range of
yahoo.fr; s/d CFA6000/10,000) A friendly place with quality eateries to choose from. Le Terazza
a family feel and a chilled-out restaurant (Chez Gnima; %993 5110) has tasty pizzas and
with hammocks to laze the day away. plenty of character, thanks to the energetic
owner Gnima and her mainly female staff.
Midrange You pass the place on your way from the
Villa des Pêcheurs (%993 5253; www.villadespecheurs village to the beach. For Senegalese food, Le
.com; s/d from CFA13,000/15,000; a) On the same Salima (%936 9127) and Le Carpe Rouge (%993
beachfront strip as the campements, this 5250) are both good. For something a little
place has stylish rooms and a renowned res- more upmarket, try the cosy restaurant Le
taurant. Fishing trips, including surf casting Djembe (Chez Nadine & Patrick; %533 7692) where
and angling, can be arranged. you can enjoy live jazz on Fridays while rel-
Les Paletuviers (%993 5210; www.hotel-kaloa ishing mouth-watering French and Italian
.com; r incl breakfast CFA15,000; as) This freshly dishes. The lively dibieterie Le Kassala (%653
polished hotel offers great value for money. 0382; h8pm-4am) is the place danced-out club-
SENEGAL

It looks out onto a beautiful stretch of man- bers head to for delicious roast meat (per
groves, and has all the quality and comfort kilo CFA5000) at 3am. Combine a visit here
of a top-end place at a much better rate. with a night out at the stylish Case Bambou
Auberge le Palmier (%993 5109; d CFA10,000; (%993 5178; admission CFA1000; h10.30pm-4am), Sa-
a) Opposite the Club Med, the Palmier vane Café (admission CFA3000; h9pm-3am) or the
masters the art of tasteful understatement. more down-to-earth Kassoumaye (admission
 734 C A S A MA N C E • • C a s a m a n c e N o r d www.lonelyplanet.com

CFA500-1000; h10pm-4am) and Les Paletuviers (Les though slightly run-down place near the
Paletuviers hotel; admission CFA1000; h9pm-3am). big fromager tree at the entrance to town.
Check out the local groupement des femmes
GETTING THERE & AWAY (women’s collective) that makes cute toys
Air and other souvenirs from colourful African
Air Sénégal International has twice weekly fabrics and sells them at reasonable prices.
flights to Dakar from November to April Rates for private taxis to/from Cap Ski-
(return CFA110,600). Air CM (%in France 01 53 ring vary enormously depending on the
41 00 50; [email protected]) has a twice-weekly season and state of the roads. Expect to
connection between Paris and the Cap. pay between CFA4000 to CFA6000 each
way. The daily minibus from Ziguinchor
Bush Taxi & Minibus passes through Cap Skiring around 5pm
Bush taxis (CFA1400) and minibuses and returns early next morning, the seat
(CFA1100) run regularly throughout the day costs CFA600 to CFA700.
between Ziguinchor and Cap Skiring, al-
though there’s more traffic in the morning. CASAMANCE NORD
Koubalan
GETTING AROUND Koubalan is a small village, 22km east of
It’s quite a trek from the main campement Ziguinchor. Its campement villageois (%578
area to Cap Skiring village. You can hail a 2091, télécentre 936 9473; [email protected]) was
taxi for around CFA600. Bicycles are another created in 1979, and has been restored. Ac-
good option – most hotels, campements commodation is in a beautifully decorated,
and Diatta Tours have them for hire. Day spacious round hut. Ask the staff to take
trips by pirogue start at around CFA25,000. you on excursions, there’s plenty to do here:
Try the two reliable piroguers Jean Baptiste visit a sacred forest, pirogue trips through
and Philippe Gomis (%555 2415) opposite the the mangroves (some just being reforested)
Hôtel Katakalousse. Auto Cap4 (%993 5265; to nearby bird habitats, trips to local arti-
[email protected]) has an eclectic mix of 4WDs sans’ workshops and much more.
for hire starting at CFA30,000 per day. You reach Koubalan by bush taxi from
Ziguinchor (CFA500, 45 minutes). It’s on a
Boucotte dirt road off the Ziguinchor–Bignona road.
This tiny village lies half-way between Cap
Skiring and Diembéring, on the seemingly Affiniam
endless stretch of white sand that is Boucotte A few kilometres north of the river, Af-
beach. Once in the village, you should abso- finiam is stunningly located between forest
lutely pay a visit to the Boucotte Museum (ask and river, and easily reached from Zig-
any local to take you there). It’s a low-key ex- uinchor by boat. The campement villageois
hibition of Diola artefacts and objects among (%508 8025, télécentre 936 9619) is in a beautiful
the roots of some giant fromager trees. The case à impluvium on the edge of the village,
pretty, blue bungalows of the Oudja Hôtel watched over by giant fromager trees, and
(%991 2781, 517 5895; s/d/tr CFA10,000/12,000/15,000) close to the pirogue point. The village itself
sit right on the shoreline. has an interesting artisanal centre, where
Hiring a taxi from Cap Skiring to Bou- you can buy locally produced soap, mar-
cotte should cost you around CFA2000 to malade and juice, and sometimes watch
CFA3000, if you call before setting out a batiks being made. Otherwise, Affiniam is
pick-up can be arranged. Alternatively, you in a good location for pirogue trips to bird
can walk along the beach, or do the pollut- habitats and the case étage in Djilapao.
ing thing of driving along the seashore in The best way of visiting Affiniam is by
your 4WD when the sea is low. pirogue. There’s a public boat once a day
SENEGAL

between Affiniam and Ziguinchor (CFA400,

Diembéring 1½ hours, daily except Thursday and Sun-
Diembéring tempts independent travellers day; departs from Ziguinchor 3.30pm, from
with a taste of village life and a quiet beach Affiniam 9.30am). Hiring a boat will cost
thrown in. The place to stay is Campement around CFA25,000, hiring a taxi from Zig-
Asseb (%993 3106; r per person CFA3000), a spacious, uinchor CFA15,000 (one hour, 30km,).
www.lonelyplanet.com C A S A MA N C E • • C a s a m a n c e N o r d 735

Bignona & Baïla

Bignona is a sleepy crossroads town with BIRD-WATCHING SITES AROUND
crumbling colonial buildings, where the KAFOUNTINE
main route to/from Banjul joins the Trans- The creeks and lagoons around Kafountine
Gambia Hwy 30km north of Ziguinchor. are wonderful areas for watching birds, es-
A short drive out of town, the Hôtel le Palm- pecially waders and shore birds. You can
ier (%994 1258; r CFA7000) has adequate facilities start your excursions right in town, at the
in an old, colonial-style building. In Badi- small pool near the Campement Sitokoto,
ouré, 11km from Bignona on the road to- or at the bar of the campement Esperanto,
wards Séléti, you’ll find the Relais Fleuri (%994 where you can gaze across the bolongs
3002; fax 994 3219; s/d CFA12,000/14,000; as), which (estuaries) while imbibing a soothing sun-
is as pretty as its name, but caters almost set drink. Esperanto, and several other
exclusively for hunters. Just avoid the main lodgings organise trips to the famous bird-
season (November to April). watching sites further afield, including the
Off the main road between Bignona and Sanctuaire Ornithologique de la Pointe de
Diouloulou, Baïla tempts with another pretty Kalissaye, a group of sandy islands (usu-
campement villageois (%544 8035; télécentre 936 ally hidden by the waters), at the mouth
9516). The area is great for walks and pirogue of the Marigot Kalissaye, and the highly
tours. It’s best to go with a guide, and don’t rated Sanctuaire Ornithologique de Kas-
venture out on lonely paths late at night. sel, some 5km southeast of Kafountine.
Ziguinchor to Baïla takes around 45 min- Another place is the Presqu’île des Oiseaux,
utes along the tarmac main road. A bush a narrow spit of land between the ocean
taxi costs CFA1500, a hire taxi around and a creek, noted for its huge populations
CFA20,000. of Caspian terns. It lies south of the fish-
ing village – most campements organise
Kafountine & Abéné excursions.
Kafountine and Abéné are the hip face of
tourism in Senegal. The two villages on
the coast just south of The Gambia have a hospital and post office, but no bank. Most
spawned more than 20 guesthouses, often hotels and campements are scattered along a
the sort of place where dreadlocked staff wide, sandy beach, which divides into two
seem happy to drum the day away and areas: the northern strip, reached by turn-
everything is ‘cool, mon’. The villages are ing right on the sandy road as it leads west
separated from the rest of Casamance Nord from the village; and the southern strip that
by a large branch of the Casamance River lies on the main road south of Kafountine
called Marigot Diouloulou. village. The beachfront is a taxi- or bicycle-
The area looks more to the north than worthy 2km from the village. To reach the
to the south: if you travel here from The southern strip, you pass the fishing village,
Gambia, the reggae-vibing tourist scene will a busy settlement with lines of shacks where
seem familiar. fish are dried and smoked, and a beach from
Several Senegalese and European artists where boats are launched.
have settled here, djembe drum clutched
between their knees and tie-dye kit in hand, Sleeping
and have tuned in the area to the laid-back Esperanto (Chez Eric & Antonella; %635 6280; esp
rhythms of ‘baba cool’ – a West African [email protected]; d CFA10,000, with half board CFA16,500)
version of relaxed reggae culture. You don’t This relaxed place between the river and sea
have to look far for your introductory is a real gem, with bungalows (some family
drumming, batik or dance workshop. sized) set in a landscaped garden with palm
trees and bamboo bridges.
SENEGAL

KAFOUNTINE Le Fouta Djalon (%936 9494; www.casamance.net

Kafountine is a spread-out village near the /foutadjalon; s/d CFA12,000/20,000) The hotel’s ex-
end of the pot-holed tarmac leading in from tensive garden begins right behind a small
Diouloulou. The village centre stretches along dune that leads to the beach. The red-brick
the main road. It’s reasonably well equipped, huts are comfortable and the cosy bar in-
with several télécentres, a slowish cybercafé, vites relaxed evening drinks.
 736 C A S A MA N C E • • C a s a m a n c e N o r d www.lonelyplanet.com

Le Kelediang (%542 5385; www.senegambia.net; eries in the market offering similar local
r per person CFA3200) Enter the forest and soak fare for little money: Chez Yandé, Le Cocotier
up the free-spirited, close-to-nature atmos- Café (h8am-midnight) and Couleur Café (%936
phere of this relaxed Dutch-run establish- 9520; h8am-midnight) are popular. Pointe Nord
ment. Accommodation is in deliberately (h11am-2am) is a lively bar. Simple Senegal-
basic, but comfy bungalows and the restau- ese meals cost around CFA750 to CFA1500
rant near the beach serves delicious lunch in all three places.
and dinner. Self-caterers can stock up in the centre
Le Bolonga (%994 8515; s/d CFA7500/10,000) This of the village. The Mini Marché (h9am-11pm)
quality place really is as warm and welcom- sells a good variety of foodstuffs and is a
ing as the bar-reception in the brick building popular hang out for local youth.
at the entrance suggests. The young staff go
to great lengths to put you at ease and satisfy Entertainment
all your excursion or workshop wishes. This is a town full of party-ready inhab-
Campement Sitokoto (%994 8512; r per person itants. The nightclubs are usually packed
incl breakfast CFA4500) Kafountine’s campement with dreadlocked youngsters, and often get
villageois has got basic rooms with clean, rowdy as the night wears on. The Farafina
shared toilets right near the river. (admission CFA1500-2000) enjoys the reputation
La Case de Marie Oldie (%936 9710, 539 2379; s/d of being the most upmarket, and most ex-
CFA3000/4500) This red-brick case à impluvium pensive place of the lot. Black and White (admis-
construction is a treat close to Kafountine sion CFA1000) and Chez Pablo (admission CFA500-1000)
village. Sunny, clean and friendly – and the are the cheaper alternatives. Additionally,
rates are unbeatable. there’s a set of bars that have live bands on
Le Paradise (%télécentre 936 9492; r CFA4000) ‘Very rotation. They include the Le Kabekel and
Jah’, is the going description of this phleg- Le Flamant Rose.
matic little campement. Drumming, smoking,
hanging about and philosophising – voilà the Getting There & Away
ambience of this self-declared paradise. The From Ziguinchor, sept-place taxis
drumming courses get good reviews. (CFA2500) and minibuses (CFA1700) run
Á la Nature (%994 8524; [email protected]; r per directly to Kafountine. Alternatively, take
person incl breakfast CFA4500) Past the fishing vil- any vehicle to Diouloulou, from where local
lage and pirogue-makers and just above the bush taxis take the rough tarmac road to
high-water line, this is Kafountine’s famous Kafountine for CFA600.
beachfront venture with a rasta feel. Drum- You can also get bush taxis from
ming workshops and hammock-lounging Serekunda or Brikama in The Gambia, al-
are obligatory. though direct traffic usually goes via the
Le Saloulou (%/fax 994 8514; r per person CFA6000) back roads and the sleepy Darsilami border
Fancy it ain’t, but it’s situated seconds from crossing rather than the main one at Séléti.
the surf and offers fishing trips in the sea There’s no Senegalese border post, so you
or bolongs. might have to return to Séléti to get your
Le Bandoula Village (%994 8511; s/d CFA13,000/ passport stamped.
15,000) A few steps down from the Saloulou,
this place is slightly more upmarket, as the Getting Around
fair rates suggest. Not a bad option. It’s quite a walk from the hotel-lined beach-
front to the village centre, and while you
Eating can hope for a ride with a friendly local,
Kafountine isn’t a gourmet’s paradise, and you’re unlikely to come across a taxi. Ask
the hotel restaurants are still your safest the hotel to call you a cab, it’ll set you back
bet. Esperanto, Fouta Djalon, Le Kelediang around CFA1000 to CFA2000.
SENEGAL

and Bandoula Village are among the most

reliable. Other good options include Le Bis- ABÉNÉ
sap (%994 8512; dishes CFA2000-3000; h8am-mid- Abéné, a slightly quieter version of Kafoun-
night), where food is tasty. You can check tine, lies 6km north on the route to Dioulou-
your emails and buy your groceries there, lou. From the village it’s 2km along a sandy
too. Alternatively, there are a few cheap eat- track to the beach, past a small craft village
www.lonelyplanet.com C A S A MA N C E • • H a u t e C a s a m a n c e 737

near the junction where a track goes off to on the menu (CFA1000 to CFA2000), a well-
the upmarket Le Kalissai Village-Hôtel . stocked boutique selling batiks and clothes,
If cycling is more your thing, try the and the occasional drumming soirée.
Campement la Belle Danielle in the vil-
lage centre, where bikes can be hired for Getting There & Away
CFA2000 per day. The friendly owner is full All public transport to and from Kafoun-
of suggestions for interesting day trips. tine stops at the turn-off to Abéné, near a
place called Diannah. The village is 2km off
Sleeping the main road, and the beach is a further
Campement la Belle Danielle (%936 9542; r per 2km, which you’ll have to walk. A private
person CFA2500, with half board CFA6000) Contrary to taxi will set you back CFA2500 to CFA3500.
what the name suggests, this isn’t the most Abéné also has its very own aerodrome,
beautiful campement in town, but without with flights to and from Dakar. Hiring a
a shadow of a doubt the one that offers the three-seater aircraft will cost you around
deepest insider knowledge. Manager Mam- CFA280,000 one way. Plane hire is arranged
madou Konta is also the local representa- at Le Kalissai Village-Hôtel.
tive of the tourist board, and can organise
pretty much any pick-up and excursion in HAUTE CASAMANCE
Casamance and beyond. Sédhiou & Kolda
Maison Sunjata (%/fax 994 8610; info@senegambia Some 100km east of Ziguinchor, Sédhiou is
.de; s/d CFA7500/15,000) Located in a well-tended a tranquil place that sleep-walks through an
garden, this small German-run place has existence that’s rarely disturbed by visitors.
clean, comfortable rooms with bathrooms From 1900 to 1909, this was the main trading
shared between two bungalows. post of the French colonial administration.
Le Kossey (%994 8609; r per person CFA5000) The The Hôtel la Palmeraie (%995 1102; philippe
beach begins where the lush garden with [email protected]; s/d CFA20,000/28,000; a) caters
its inviting bungalows stops. This place is mainly for hunters, though its spectacu-
particularly famous for its rasta drumming lar palm-grove setting distracts from the
parties on New Year’s Eve. hunters’ ambience. A short diversion off the
O’Dunbeye Land Ecole de Danse (Chez Thomas; smooth tarmac road from Kolda to Carre-
%524 9600; www.odunbeyeland.com/fr; r per person four Diaroumé takes you to Sédhiou (bush
CFA2600) There are plenty of drumming and taxi CFA3500); the turn-off is signposted.
dancing courses in Abéné, this place offers There are also bush taxis between Sédhiou
some of the best-quality ones. The ambi- and Bounkiling on the Trans-Gambia Hwy
ence is expectedly artistique, accommoda- (CFA2000).
tion basic and the food delicious. Kolda’s glory lies in its past, the time
Le Kalissai Village-Hôtel (%994 8600; www.kal when this second-largest city of the Casa-
issai.com; s/d CFA28,000/32,000; as) You won’t mance used to be the capital of Fouladou,
find anything more polished than this luxury the historical 19th-century Fula kingdom
establishment. Bungalows and surroundings led by the illustrious kings Alpha Molo and
are as welcoming as you want them to be for his son Musa Molo. Today, it’s an unspec-
the price, and you can even fly here in your tacular place, mainly visited by hunters.
privately hired plane (see right). Class. The prettiest hotel is Le Firdou (%996 1780; fax
996 1782; s/d CFA14,100/18,700; pis), where
Eating attractive bungalows sit right on the river
Chez Vero (%617 1714; meals around CFA3000) is the in a spacious palm-tree garden. In town,
much-loved auntie of Abéné’s restaurant the impressively sized Hôtel Hobbe (%996
scene. Food has been consistently good for 1170; www.hobbe-kolda.com; s/d CFA18,100/22,000;
many years now, and is served on a terrace, ais) again caters mainly for hunters.
SENEGAL

under the watchful eyes of gaudy Madonnas Rooms are enormous and come with cable
and griots on the walls. The unpretentious TV. Hôtel Moya (%996 1175; fax 996 1357; s/d from
Afad Snackbar opposite the Village Artisanal CFA9,800/10,800; a) is drab, overpriced and run
and the nearby Bistro Café (%634 3532) both by uniquely unforthcoming management.
serve reasonable fast food. Bistro Café is the Kolda isn’t exactly blessed with a thriving
more upmarket of the two, with decent pizzas restaurant scene or nightlife. Simple meals
 738 S E N E G A L D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com

can be found at Chez Koumba, Chez Bintou, All places charge a tourist tax of CFA600
La Terasse and Darou Salam. Culinary choices per person, which usually isn’t included in
are mainly between your regular Senegalese the price. In this book, rates are quoted
dishes and brochettes with bread. exclusive of tourist tax.
From Kolda, it’s worth going on a day Some hotels charge by the room, making
trip to the spectacular market of Diaoubé no difference whether you’re alone or shar-
where traders from across Casamance, The ing, and many have favourable rates for two
Gambia and Guinea come on Wednesdays people sharing. The high season for hotel
to peddle their wares. rates is from around October to May, with
Kolda is well-served by public transport. extra hikes around Christmas and New Year.
If you head to Ziguinchor, make sure you get During the low season, rates can drop by up
into a sept-place that takes the route Kolda– to 50%. Some hotels also offer half-board
Carrefour Diaroumé–Ziguinchor, rather rates, which include breakfast and lunch.
than Kolda–Tanaf–Ziguinchor. The former
is a bitumen dream, the latter a potholed ACTIVITIES
promise of breakdowns. The CFA3500 price Most tourists head to Senegal for the
is the same. A sept-place to Vélingara costs beaches, particularly those of the Petite Côte
CFA2300, to Tambacounda CFA3000. All (p701) and Cap Skiring (p732). The main
bush taxis leave from the gare routière about tourist centres have a range of sea-related
2km outside town on the road to Sédhiou. activities on offer, including sailboarding,
kayaking etc. Pirogue journeys are popular,

SENEGAL DIRECTORY particularly around the mangrove creeks of

Siné-Saloum (p705) and Casamance (p725).
The boat journeys are often combined with
ACCOMMODATION bird-watching – though there’s no equiva-
In this chapter, rates are quoted exclusive lent in Senegal to Gambia’s well-organised
of tourist tax. For larger towns, places are network of ornithologists. Fishing, including
organised according to price range: budget deep-sea fishing, is possible along the coast,
hotels (less than US$30 per night), mid- and in Dakar (p688). Along the Petite Côte
range (between US$30 and US$75 per (p701) diving and surfing are popular.
night) and top end (more than US$75 per Some cautious wildlife spotting can be
night). Dakar has the biggest range of ac- done in Senegal’s national parks. In north-
commodation, though everything is ex- ern Senegal, ‘desert tourism’, including
pensive, and there are few budget options. 4WD tours and windsurfing is possible
Inland, there are several good rural campe- around Saint-Louis, the Desert de Lompoul
ments, where accommodation is usually in and the border areas with Mauritania.
round huts, including the campements vil-
lageois in the Casamance (see p731) and BOOKS
several upmarket options, particularly in Most books on Senegal are in French and
the Siné-Saloum region. if you’re capable of the tongue, you should
read Sénégal, Christian Saglio’s musings
on the country. The author, currently head
PRACTICALITIES of Dakar’s Institut Français, has spent the

Focus on Africa (BBC) often has excellent greater part of his life in Senegal, where he,
news stories on Senegal, and is sold in among other things, helped conceive the
the country. fabulous network of campements villageois
(see p731) in Casamance in the 1970s.

If you read French, Jeune Afrique and
The stunning Senegal behind Glass by
l’Intelligent are good sources of political
Anne-Marie Bouttianaux-Ndiaye contains
and cultural news.
SENEGAL

reproductions of sous-verre paintings, from

The electricity supply in Senegal is historical to contemporary examples, giving
220V. Plugs have two round pins, as in artistic insights into the country’s religion
France and continental Europe. and culture (as well as the arts scene). A Saint

Senegal uses the metric system. in the City by Allen and Mary Roberts takes a
similar approach, discussing the ubiquitous
www.lonelyplanet.com S E N E G A L D I R E C T O R Y • • B u s i n e s s H o u r s 739

presence of the images of Senegal’s great EMBASSIES & CONSULATES

Sufi leader Cheikh Amadou Bamba around Senegalese Embassies and Consulates
urban Dakar. You’ll spot them too on your Belgium (%02 673 0097; senegal.ambassade@coditel
travels – this book explains why. Music lov- .net; 196 Ave Franklin-Roosevelt, Brussels 1050)
ers should read the amusing The Music in Canada (%613-0238 6392; www.ambassenecanada
My Head by Mark Hudson, which describes .org; 57 Marlborough Ave, Ottawa ON K1N)
the power, influence and everyday realities France (%01 44 05 38 69; www.ambassenparis.com; 22
of modern African music set in a mythical Rue Hamelin, 75016 Paris)
city that is instantly recognisable as Dakar. Germany (%022-821 80 08; Argelanderstrasse 3, 53115
Bonn)
BUSINESS HOURS Guinea (%224-409037; Corniche Sud, Coléah, Conakry;
Businesses and government offices open from h9am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Mon-Fri)
8am to noon and 2.30pm to 6pm Monday to Guinea-Bissau (%245-21 29 44; 43 Rue Omar Tor-
Friday, and some open from 8am to noon on rijhos, Bissau; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Saturday. Most banks are open from 8.30am Japan (%0464 8451; fax 464 8452; 1-3-4 Aobadai,
to noon, and 2.30pm to 4.30pm Monday to Meguro-ku Tokyo 153)
Friday. Some banks also open until 11am on Mali (%223-221 8273; fax 221 1780; off Blvd Nelson
Saturday mornings. Shops are usually open Mandela, Bamako; h7.30am-1pm & 1.30-4pm Mon-Fri)
from 9am to noon, and from 2.30pm to 7pm Mauritania (%222-525 72 90; Rue de l’Ambassade du
Monday to Saturday, and very few open from Sénégal, Nouakchott)
9am to noon on Sunday. Morocco (%07754171; 17 Cadi Ben Hamadi Benhadj,
Most restaurants offer lunch (noon to BP 365 Rabat)
2.30pm) and dinner (7pm onwards), and UK (%020-7938 4048; www.senegalembassy.co.uk; 39
many are closed on Sundays. Marloes Rd, London W8 6LA)
For a night out in Dakar, don’t even think USA (%202-2340540; 2112 Wyoming Ave NW, Washing-
of leaving the house before midnight, most ton, DC 20008)
clubs and bars only get going around 1am.
In West Africa, Senegal also has embas-
CHILDREN sies in Banjul (The Gambia), Abidjan (Côte
There’s little in the way of child-centred ac- d’Ivoire), Freetown (Sierra Leone), Lagos
tivities, though Dakar has a few playgrounds (Nigeria), Niamey (Niger) and Praia (Cape
and some children’s entertainment, and the Verde). See the appropriate country chap-
national parks and quiet beaches (beware of ters for more information.
undertow) are good to visit with kids.
Children are generally welcome, and Embassies & Consulates in Senegal
hotels and restaurants are usually accom- If you need to find an embassy that is not
modating, rustling up a kid’s meal and listed here, check the phone book, one of the
arranging extra beds (at an extra cost). Baby- listings magazines, or www.ausenegal.com
sitting services are rare, and only available /practique_en/ambassad.htm. Most of the
in the more upmarket places. following embassies are located in Dakar:
Disposable nappies and baby food are Belgium (Map p684; %822 4720; Route de la Corniche-
found in the supermarkets and many smaller Est)
shops in the larger towns around the coun- Burkina Faso (%827 9509/8; Lot 1, Liberty VI Exten-
try; stock up before heading to the more sion; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri)
remote regions. Babies are best carried in a Canada (Map p684; %889 4700; Immeuble Sorano, 4th
baby-rucksack – it’s near impossible to push fl, 45-47 Blvd de la République)
a pram around anywhere in the country. Cape Verde (Map p686; %821 1873; 3 Blvd el Haji Djily
Mbaye; h8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri)
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Côte d’Ivoire (%869 02 70; Rue 7 X G, Point E;
SENEGAL

Dakar, particularly the inner city, markets h9am-12.30pm & 3-5pm Mon-Fri)
and beaches, is a hotspot of pickpocketting, France (Map p686; %839 5100; 1 Rue Assane Ndoye)
muggings and scams (see p687), though The Gambia (Map p686; %821 7230; 11 Rue de
nowhere near the scale of, let’s say, Lagos. Thiong; h9am-3pm Mon-Thu & 9am-1pm Fri)
Another risk is civil unrest in the Casamance Germany (Map p684; %889 4884; 20 Ave Pasteur)
(see p727 for more information). Ghana (Map p691; %869 4053; Point E)
 740 S E N E G A L D I R E C T O R Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s www.lonelyplanet.com

Guinea (Map p691; %824 8606; Rue 7, Point E; on different dates each year. 48 days after
h9.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Directly opposite Ker Jaraaf. Islamic New Year, Senegal celebrates the
Guinea-Bissau Dakar (%824 5922; Rue 6, Point E; Grand Magal pilgrimage in Touba (p710).
h8am-12.30pm Mon-Fri); Ziguinchor (%991 1046; Rue The exact dates of Islamic holidays are
de France; h8am-2pm Mon-Fri) only announced just before they occur, as
Italy (Map p684; %822 0076; Rue Seydou Nourou Tall) they depend on the sightings of the moon.
Mali (Map p693; %824 6252; 23 Route de la Corniche And occasionally, experts differ in their
Ouest, Fann; h8am-11am Mon-Fri) readings of the moon, which can result in
Mauritania (Map p693; %822 6238; Rue 37, Kolobane; a two-day celebration. See p818 for more
h8am-2pm Mon-Fri) information.
Morocco (Map p691; %824 6927; Ave Cheikh Anta Other holidays include the following:
Diop, Mermoz) Near the Total petrol station where all the New Year’s Day 1 January
cars rapides wait. Independence Day 4 April
Netherlands (Map p686; %849 0360; 37 Rue Kléber) Easter Monday March/April
Spain (Map p684; %842 6408; 18-20 Ave Nelson Whit Sunday/Pentecost 7th Sunday after Easter
Mandela) Whit Monday Day after Whit Sunday
Switzerland (Map p684; %823 0590; Rue René Ndiaye) Ascension 40th day after Easter
UK (Map p684; %823 7392; 20 Rue du Dr Guillet) One Workers Day 1 May
block north of Hôpital Le Dantec. Assumption August 15
USA (Map p686; %823 4296; Ave Jean XXIII) Christmas Day 25 December

FESTIVALS & EVENTS INTERNET ACCESS

There’s always a festival on somewhere in Senegal is the third-best place in Africa for
Senegal; some so small and informal that web services. Connections are usually fast
you’ll hardly hear about them, others huge, and there are plenty of Internet cafés. The
international events. main operator is sentoo (www.sentoo.sn), which
Abéné Festivalo This is an informal affair, mainly featur- has a chain of speedy cybercafés around
ing drumming troupes of varying standard. Happens every the country.
New Year in Abéné.
Dak’Art Biennale (%823 0918; www.dakart.org) This INTERNET RESOURCES
fantastic arts festival is held in Dakar every two years – Au-Senegal (www.au-senegal.com) A fantastically
one of Africa’s best. packed information site, with hotel booking facilities and
Festival International du Film de Quartier (www up-to-date cultural and political information.
.festivaldufilmdequartier.com) Dakar’s best film festival Senegal Tourist Office (www.senegal-tourism.com)
with excellent fringe shows. Comprehensive tourist site listing attractions, and giving
Kaay Fecc (%826 4950; www.ausenegal.com/kaay travel and accommodation tips.
fecc). One of Africa’s best dance festivals. Usually happens Stanford Site Guide (www-sul.stanford.edu/depts/ssrg/
around June. africa/sene.html) Has links to hundreds of websites about
Saint-Louis Jazz Festival (www.saintlouisjazz.com) Senegal, both in English and French.
Renowned international jazz festival in a historical setting. Senerap (www.senerap.com) Comprehensive website
with news on Senegal’s hip-hop scene.
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
Gay sexual relationships are a cultural taboo MAPS
and the gay scene, which certainly exists in The locally produced Carte du Senegal
Dakar and other urban centres, isn’t very visi- (1:912,000) isn’t bad. For Dakar, the col-
ble. Open displays of affection are generally ourful street map by Editions Laure Kane (www
frowned upon, whatever your sexual orienta- .editionslaurekane) is a must have. It was last
tion, and can be met with downright hostility updated in 2006.
in the case of same-sex relationships.
SENEGAL

MONEY
HOLIDAYS The currency of Senegal is the West African
Both Christian and Islamic events are cele- CFA franc. CFA stands for Communauté Fi-
brated. The Muslim holidays, such as Ko- nancière Africaine, and is also the official cur-
rité, Tabaski, Tamkharit and Moulid are rency of Benin, Burkina Faso, Côte d’Ivoire,
determined by the lunar calendar, and occur Guinea-Bissau, Mali, Niger and Togo.
www.lonelyplanet.com S E N E G A L D I R E C T O R Y • • P o s t 741

There are notes for CFA500, CFA1000, speedier mail, there are DHL offices in
CFA5000 and CFA10,000. The value of the Dakar and other major towns.
CFA is tied to the euro at a fixed rate of one The main post office in Dakar has a poste
euro to CFA655.967. restante facilities, though note that some
travellers have reported problems with the
ATMs service.
Banks with ATMs exist in most major
towns throughout the country. Visa is the TELEPHONE & FAX
most widely accepted plastic. The with- There are plenty of public télécentres all
drawal limit is supposed to be CFA300,000, around the country, where you can make
though some bank branches only allow up national and international calls and send
to CFA150,000. faxes. National calls cost CFA60 per minute,
and international calls are around CFA500,
Cash depending on which country you call. After
Euros, US dollars, British pounds and other 8pm, prices fall by 20%.
major currencies can be changed in banks, Mobile coverage is excellent, with even
bureaux de change and hotels. Euros are the remotest villages having at least a tiny
most widely accepted, and the only cur- pocket of reception. Alizé, Sentel and Tigo
rency dealt with outside Dakar. It’s best to are the main companies. An Alizé SIM card
do all your changing in Dakar before head- costs CFA25,000. You top up with prepaid
ing into the country. cards, which are sold in units of CFA1000,
CFA2500, CFA5000 and CFA10,000.
Credit Cards The country code is %221. For directory
The use of credit cards is limited to top-end assistance dial %12.
hotels, some restaurants, car hire and very few
shops. American Express (Amex) and Visa TIME
are the most widely accepted. Some banks in Senegal is at GMT/UTC, which for most
the interior of Senegal can give cash advances European visitors means there is no or very
on credit cards, though readers have reported little time difference. There is no daylight
this being too much hassle to try. savings time.

Moneychangers TOURIST INFORMATION

All major bank branches change money, Senegal’s Syndicat d’Initiative has an office
and there are a few exchange bureaus in the in each of the regions. The main and best
tourist zones. branch is in Saint-Louis.
Gorée (%823 9177; [email protected])
Tipping Lac Rose (%836 5517; [email protected])
In good quality restaurants and hotels Saint Louis (%961 2455; [email protected])
you’re usually expected to tip, not so in Saly (%957 22 22; [email protected])
most midrange and budget places. You Siné-Saloum (%948 3140; www.tourismesinesaloum.sn)
wouldn’t normally tip a taxi driver. Tambacounda (%981 1250; [email protected])
Ziguinchor (%993 5151; [email protected])
Travellers Cheques
The major banks in the cities accept travel- VISAS
lers cheques grudgingly, but tend to charge Visas are not needed by citizens of the EU,
high commissions. Forget about changing Canada, Norway, South Africa, Japan, Israel,
them upcountry. Only American Express USA and some other (mainly African) coun-
cheques tend to be considered, and the best tries. Tourist visas for one to three months
currency for travellers cheques (as for cash) cost about US$15 to US$20. Australians and
SENEGAL

is euros. New Zealanders definitely need a visa.

POST Visa Extensions

Senegal’s postal service is very reliable. Let- For extensions, submit a request to the Min-
ters to and from Europe usually take about istère de l’Interieur (Map p684; Place de l’Indépendance,
a week, up to 15 days for Australasia. For Dakar), who’ll give you a receipt, which already
 742 T R A N S P O R T I N S E N E G A L • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y www.lonelyplanet.com

gives you right to extended stay. It takes ally pain free, and the Dakar airport is very
about two weeks for the official letter con- organised.
firming extension to arrive, which you then
present to get your passport stamped. Air
Senegal’s main airport is the easily nego-
Visas for Onward Travel tiated Aéroport International Léopold Sédar
For onward travel, it’s best to get your visa Senghor (DKR; %869 50 50, 24hr information line 628
beforehand at the relevant embassy (see 1010; www.aeroportdakar.com) in Yoff, 30 minutes
p739). Most issue visas within 24 hours. For from central Dakar. The airports of Saint-
Mauritania, you can get visas at the border Louis (%961 14 90) and Cap Skiring (%993 51 77)
in Rosso. For The Gambia, it’s always bet- also have connections to Dakar and Paris.
ter to have your visa beforehand, as border The national carrier is Air Sénégal Inter-
officials can be difficult. national (%804 0404, in France 0820 202 123; www
.air-senegal-international.com), one of the most re-
WOMEN TRAVELLERS liable airlines in Africa.
While it’s not exactly dangerous to travel on Airlines servicing Senegal and with of-
your own as a woman in Senegal, you do fices in Dakar include the following:
need to prepare for some low-key hassle and Air Algérie (AH; %823 2964; www.airalgerie.dz)
constant advances. If you travel on your own, Hub: Algiers.
inventing a husband is a good strategy, and Air CM (%in France 01 53 41 00 50; mail.aircom@
you should also refer to boyfriends as hus- wannadoo.fr) Has a twice-weekly connection between
bands, to gain respect for your relationship. Paris and Cap Skiring and plenty of good package deals.
It’s always better to dress more mod- Air France (Map p686; AF; %823 2964; www.airfrance
estly. Short skirts don’t do anything to keep .fr; Ave Albert Sarraut) Hub: Paris, Charles de Gaulle.
trouble away. Air Guinée (Map p686; 2U; %821 4442; www.mirinet
Downtown Dakar is a prime ‘hunting .com/airguinee; 25 Ave Pompidou) Hub: Conakry.
ground’ for saï-saïs – guys out to chat up Air Ivoire (VU; %889 0280; www.airivoire.com) Hub:
women, either to get you into bed, or cheat Abidjan.
you out of money and most probably both. Air Mali (Map p686; XG; %823 2461; 14 Rue El Haji
Beware and shake them off with a firm but M’Baye Guèye) Hub: Bamako.
polite bakhna (meaning OK, it’s alright) or Air Portugal (Map p686; TP; %821 5460; www.tap.pt)
by simply ignoring them. Hub: Lisbon.
Beaches are prime hassle zones, and the Air Sénégal International (V7; %804 0404; www
areas where female readers report the most .air-senegal-international.com; 45 Ave Albert Sarraut)
irritating, sometimes downright threaten- Hub: Dakar.
ing advances. Alitalia (Map p686; AZ; %823 3874; www.alitalia.com;
Very few women become the victims of 5 Ave Pompidou) Hub: Rome.
physical harm or rape. And if you follow Ethiopian Airlines (ET; %821 32 98; www.flyethio
some common sense ground rules – don’t pian.com/et/; 16, Ave Léopold Sédar Senghor)
stroll along deserted beaches or dark city Hub: Addis Ababa.
roads alone, don’t hitchhike or accept rides Iberia (Map p686; IB; %889 0050; www.iberia.com; 2
with cars full of drunken men – you’re un- Place de l’Indépendance) Hub: Madrid.
likely to get into serious trouble. Kenya Airways (KQ; %in Nairobi 020 3274747; www
.kenya-airways.com) Hub: Nairobi.

TRANSPORT IN Royal Air Maroc (Map p686; AT; %849 4747; www
.royalairmaroc.com; 1 Place de l’Indépendance)

SENEGAL Hub: Casablanca.

SN Brussels (Map p686; SN; %823 0460; www.flysn
.com; Immeuble Fayçal, Rue Parchappe) Hub: Brussels.
SENEGAL

GETTING THERE & AWAY South African Airways (Map p686; SA; %823 0151;
Entering Senegal www.flysaa.com; 12 Ave Albert Sarraut)
A full passport is essential for entering Sene- Hub: Johannesburg
gal. If you enter from within the region, TACV Cabo Verde Airlines (Map p686; VR; %821
you’ll also need to show a yellow fever vac- 3968; www.tacv.cv; 105 Rue Moussé Diop)
cination certificate. Border checks are usu- Hub: Praia, Cape Verde.
www.lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N S E N E G A L • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 743

TAP Air Portugal (Map p686; %821 0065; Rue and CFA3000 for a 4WD) crosses the Senegal
Amadou Assane Ndoye) Hub: Lisbon. River. It’s been announced that a bridge is
Virgin Nigeria (VK; %4600505; www.virginnigeria supposed to replace the boat service within
.com) Hub: Lagos. the next few years, but work hadn’t started
when this book went to press.
Land Dakar–Rosso by sept-place taxi is
GAMBIA CFA5100 (six hours, 384km), from Saint-
See p326 for details. Louis CFA2000 (two hours, 106km).
The only other option is the Maka
GUINEA Diama barrage, 97km southwest of Rosso
Nearly all traffic between Senegal and Guinea and just north of Saint-Louis, but there’s
goes to/from Labé, a town in northwestern no proper road. The crossing here costs
Guinea. The busiest route is via Koundara, CFA5000/10,000 in winter/summer.
but some transport also goes via Kedougou
(in the far southeast of Senegal) and the River & Sea
small town of Mali (usually called Mali-ville, If you’re feeling brave, you can take a
to distinguish it from the country of the pirogue from the Siné-Saloum region to
same name). Tambacounda has connections Banjul in The Gambia. Note that these
almost every day. From Kedougou, your best aren’t particularly safe and the ride can be
chances to find transport are on a Friday, very rocky.
though at least one car might leave most The most common departure points are
other days. Another popular jumping-off Djifer, where a place in an often overpriced
point is Diaoubé near Kolda. Wednesday, the pirogue costs CFA5000, and the trip takes
day of the Diaoubé lumo is the best day to get around six hours. From Betenti, there’s an
transport here. Fares to Guinea are around almost daily pirogue to Banjul (CFA1500,
CFA15,000 from all these places, and the trip three hours) that leaves around 8am.
can take up to 48 hours as routes are bad and A regular boat service between Banjul
Guinean roadblocks tedious to pass. and Dakar had ceased at the time of writing,
though it was rumoured that the route was
GUINEA-BISSAU supposed to be reopened.
Bush taxis run several times daily between
Ziguinchor and Bissau (CFA6000, 147km) Train
via São Domingos (the border) and Ingore. The Dakar–Bamako train is something of
The road is in fairly good condition, but the a traveller’s classic. In theory, trains run
ferries on the stretch between Ingore and Bis- between Dakar and Bamako twice a week
sau can make the trip take anything from in each direction and the trip takes about
four to eight hours. Occasionally the São Do- 35 hours. In practice, this almost never hap-
mingos border closes due to suspected rebel pens – one train is often out of action, the
activity (see the boxed text, p727). Other op- trip usually takes 40 hours or longer, and
tions are to go from Tanaf to Farim or from derailments are frequent. Inquire about the
Tambacounda via Vélingara to Gabú. situation at Dakar train station before set-
ting of, and once on the train, watch out
MALI for pickpockets.
You can take the train, or a sept-place from
Dakar via Tambacounda to Kidira (CFA5000, GETTING AROUND
three hours, 184km) where border crossings Air
are reportedly hassle-free. In Kidira, you cross Air Sénégal International (%804 0404; www.air
the bridge to Diboli, from where bush taxis -senegal-international.com) has flights from Dakar
go on a washed-out road to Kayes (CFA3000). to Saint-Louis, Ziguinchor, Cap Skiring
SENEGAL

From Kayes to Bamako, both train and taxi and Tambacounda, though only those to
are equally good (or bad) options. Ziguinchor (once or twice daily, return fare
CFA80,600) operate with complete regu-
MAURITANIA larity. Flights to Cap Skiring (Friday and
The main border point is at Rosso, where a Sunday, return fare CFA110,600) and Saint-
ferry (free for passengers, CFA2000 for a car Louis (Wednesday, return fare CFA70,000)
 744 T R A N S P O R T I N S E N E G A L • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com

operate only from November to April,

and the two flights that fly from Dakar to GORÉE FERRY TIMETABLE
Tambacounda every Saturday seem pretty DEPARTING FROM GORÉE
irregular. Monday to Saturday Sundays & Holidays
To Ziguinchor or Cap Skiring, flights are
particularly worth considering, as reaching 6.45am 7.30am
the Casamance by road involves either tedi- 8am 9.30am
ous border crossings in The Gambia, or a 10.30am 10.30am
seemingly endless tour via Tambacounda noon 12.30pm
around The Gambia. 2pm 2.30pm
Other companies include the following: 3pm 4.30pm
Air Saint Louis (%644 8629; www.airsaintlouis.com) 4.30pm 5.30pm
Flights from Dakar to Saint-Louis. 6.30pm 7pm
Le Kalissai Village-Hôtel (%994 8600; www.kalissai 7pm 8pm
.com) Arranges flights from the aerodrome in Abéné to 8.30pm 9pm
Dakar. 11pm 11pm
Senegalair Avion Taxis (%821 3425) Flies mainly to 11.30pm midnight
Simenti in Parc National du Niokolo-Koba, though it can
also arrange flights elsewhere. DEPARTING FROM DAKAR
Monday to Saturday Sundays & Holidays
Bicycle
Senegal’s flat savannah landscape is great 6.15am 7am
for cycling, but there are a few things to 7.30am 9am
consider. Roads are in poor condition, and 10am 10am
often sandy. The bigger problem, however, 11am noon
is the drivers, who simply aren’t used to cyc- 12.30pm 2pm
lists, which makes cycling potentially very 2.30pm 4pm
risky. The best place to hire bikes is Casa- 4pm 5pm
mance VTT in Oussouye (see p731). Ke- 5pm (*) 6.30pm
dougou and the region around Saint-Louis 6.30pm 7pm
are also particularly good for biking. 8pm 8.30pm
10.30pm 10.30pm
Boat (*) except Sat
By far the most important boat service in
Senegal is the Wilis, which connects Dakar
twice weekly to Ziguinchor in the Casa- Gorée Ferry (%24hr infoline 628 1111, 849 7961) Fer-
mance, see p730. ries travel 11 times daily between Dakar and Île de Gorée.
In some areas, including Ndangane, N’Gor, The first ferry leaves at 6.15am, the last return from Gorée
Elinkine and Affiniam, pirogues are used as is at 11pm. The trip takes 20 minutes.
public transport. It’s always possible to hire Willis (%889 8009, 889 8060/51) Departs from Dakar
a pirogue for an excursion (particularly in every Tuesday and Friday at 7pm, returns from Ziguinchor
the Casamance and Siné-Saloum regions), every Sunday and Thursday at 2pm. Tickets start from
though it can get expensive. If you go to Île de CFA15,500.
Gorée or Foundiougne, you need to cross by
ferry – these services are safe and reliable. Bus, Bush Taxi & Minibus
Major leisure boat options include the Senegal’s long-distance bus network is fairly
tours of the Bou El Mogdad from Saint- good, punctual and cheap – though slow and
Louis to Podor, and the trips of the African not exactly comfortable. Buses are owned
Queen around the Petite Côte. and operated by members of the Mouride
SENEGAL

Africa Queen (West Africa Sportsfishing; %957 7435; brotherhood, hence they’re known as cars
Saly) Tours off the Petite Côte. mourides. These go from Dakar to most
Bou El Mogdad (%961 5689; www.saheldecouverte major towns in the country. In Dakar they
.com) One- to four-day cruise trips along the Senegal leave from the Shell station at Ave Malick
River can be booked through Sahel Découverte Bassari in Sy near gare routière Sapeurs-Pompiers (just
Saint-Louis (see p714). referred to as Pompiers), usually in the mid-
 © Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N S E N E G A L • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 745

dle of the night. You have to book your seat It usually works out better hiring a sept-
in advance, best by going there in person. place with its driver. To work out the cost
‘Bush taxi’ is the generic term for all of a journey, multiply the number of seats
public transport smaller than a big bus. by the fare and add some extra, particularly
The most common forms include Ndiaga for waiting times, and you’ve got your es-
Ndiayes, large white Mercedes busses that timated price.
usually have ‘Alhamdoulilai’ printed across
the front, minibuses (usually Nissan Urvans) Tours
carrying 20 people, and sept-place taxis. Most places of interest in Senegal can be
These are seven-seaters, usually Peugeot reached by public transport or car, but if
504s, that are also referred to as brake or you’re short of time you could get around
cinq-cent-quatre. Sept-place taxis are always the country on an organised tour. A small
the most comfortable and fastest option. selection of operators based in and around
They cost around 20% more than Ndiaga Dakar is included here.
Ndiayes. In some remote areas, however, M’boup Voyages (Map p686; %821 8163;
Ndiaga Ndiayes, minibuses, or even pick-up [email protected]; Place de l’Indépendance) One
trucks, might be your only option. of the most enduring agencies with tours to the major
Bush taxis leave when they’re full, and destinations
they fill up fastest in the morning, from Origin Africa (%860 1578; [email protected]; Cité
6.30am or earlier to 8.30am. In remote loca- Africa, Ouakam) One of the more interesting tour oper-
tions, your best chance for transport is on ators in Senegal, with plenty of tours to destinations less
market days, when people will be heading frequently covered.
to the market town (or village) in the early Pain de Singe (Map p684; %824 2484;
morning and returning in the evening. [email protected]) Absolutely original, this tiny oper-
ation runs excellent, eco-oriented tours, including trips to
Car & Motorcycle the marine reserve at Bamboung, Casamance and plenty of
No cars older than five years may be other off-the-beaten track destinations.
imported to Senegal. You need an inter- Sahel Découverte Bassari (Map p686; %842 8751;
national driving licence to drive or hire a [email protected], [email protected]; 7 Rue
car in Senegal. Most hire companies request Delmas) The tours in northern Senegal are particularly
a minimum age of 23. good. It caters well for Spanish speakers.
Car hire is generally expensive. By the Senegal Tours (Map p686; %839 9900; fax 823 2644;
time you’ve added up the costs, you can 5 Place de l’Indépendance) One of the largest operators.
easily end up paying over US$1000 per TPA (%644 9491; 957 1256; [email protected]; www
week. In Senegal all the international names .lesenegal.info) A tour operator with a difference. The
(Hertz, Avis, Budget etc) are represented, leading agency for ‘bush tourism’, with excellent tours
and there are also smaller independent op- around the lesser travelled routes, including trips to its
erators. Dakar is the best place for car hire remote campements in Lompoul, Simal and Palmarin
(see p695 for contact details). (Siné-Saloum).
SENEGAL

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