1.

Formal Shirt  – Operation Breakdown with SMV Details

2. Casual Shirt
3. Formal Trouser
4. Casual Trouser
5. Formal Jacket
6. Casual Jackets
7. Womens Top
8. Denim

Operation Breakdown and SAM of the Full Sleeve Formal Men’s Shirt

Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar

2031

Prior to defining SAM of the garment, detailed operation break-

down is made by engineer. Both manual and machine operations are included in the operation
list. Then a skilled operator is given to do operations one by one. 5 to 10 samples are studied. All
operations are studied by GSD expert for motion analysis. At the same time all operations are
videoed for future reference. Calculated SAM of the operations for a Formal Shirt has been
shown in the following table. This has been defined by a GSD practitioner of a large size Indian
garment export company using GSD software. The following SAM of each individual operation
will help to understand how a shirt’s SAM reach up to a certain value. The SAM of the operation
may vary according to the changes styling of the shirts, seam length, attachment and work aids
used, motion sequence used by the operator and machine type. 

Product: Full Sleeve Men’s Formal Shirt. Brand: Arrow 

Total Garment SAM: 22.32 minutes.

Sl. No. Operation List SAM
1 Pinning to profile 0.234
2 Run stitch collar 0.219
3 Trim collar 0.285
4 Clip and turn collar 0.223
5 Crease collar 0.381
6 Top stitch collar 0.42
7 Run stitch (R/s) collar band 0.291
8 Crease collar band 0.317
9 Insert collar in neck band 0.799
10 Turn and crease collar 0.452
11 Attach bias piece to cuff 0.874
12 Crease cuff 0.458
13 Hem cuff 0.501
14  R/s cuff 0.565
15 Trim cuff 0.36
16 Turn cuff 0.527
17 Crease cuff bottom 0.566
18 Attach placket to sleeve 0.795
19 Lock and make diamond 1.026
20 Sew pleats (4 no.) 0.389
21 Hem right front 0.494
22  Attach front placket 0.603
23 Crease pocket 0.542
24 Hem pocket mouth 0.28
25 Attach pocket to front 0.861
26 Attach brand label and tack loop 0.589
27 Crease patch pieces 0.236
28 Attach patch piece 0.333
29 Sew pleats 0.278
30 Attach yoke to back 0.475
31 Top stitch back yoke 0.365
32 Join shoulder 0.64
33 Top stitch shoulder 0.656
34 Attach collar 0.535
35 Close collar with size label 1.01
36 Sleeve attach 0.862
37 Top stitch armhole 0.678
 38 Top stitch side seam 1.036
39 Attach & close cuff 0.696
40 Top stitch cuff 0.524
41 Hem bottom 0.947
Total SAM 22.322

Operation Breakdown and SMV of a Trouser

Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar

2729

The operation breakdown of a trouser with two front pocket and two back pocket has been given
in the following table. SMVs mentioned here against each operation are just for your reference.
It may vary according to machine types, workstation layout and equipment used. Operations
needed to make a trouser have been listed section wise. Machines that are used for the operations
have been also mentioned in the table.

Trouser
Table 1: Operation Breakdown Chart

Operation Breakdown and SMV of a Trouser

Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar
2729
The operation breakdown of a trouser with two front pocket and two back pocket has been given
in the following table. SMVs mentioned here against each operation are just for your reference.
It may vary according to machine types, workstation layout and equipment used. Operations
needed to make a trouser have been listed section wise. Machines that are used for the operations
have been also mentioned in the table.

Trouser
 Table 1: Operation Breakdown Chart

Table 2: Abbreviation of machine name

Table 2: Abbreviation of machine name

Operation Breakdown and SMVs of a Basic Jeans

Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar

2339

Operation breakdown of a 5 Pocket Basic Jeans is listed in this article. SMVs mentioned here
against each operation are just for your reference. SMVs may vary according to machine types,
workstation layout and equipment used.

Some of operations are done by automatic machines, like auto pocket hemming (APH), auto
pocket attaching (APS) etc. Machines that are used for the operations have been mentioned in
third column (M/c type) of the following table.
This Operation Breakdown has been taken from a Jeans manufacturing company in Vietnam.
 5-Pocket Basic Jeans

Table 1: Operation Breakdown Chart

Sl. Operations M/C Type SMV

no.
Back
1 pocket hemming APH 0.07

2 pocket o/l 3T O/L 0.3

3 pocket creasing ADPC 0.4

4 pocket attaching APS 0.74

5 second stitch @ back pocket SNLS 0.65

6 back yoke attach FOA 0.41

7 back rise join FOA 0.24

8 size label attach SNLS 0.2

Front Section

9 coin pocket hemming APH 0.015

10 coin pocket attach @ jet piece (right) SNLS 0.2

11 pocket bag attach with jet piece 5T F/L 0.42

12 o/l @ pocket bag 3T O/L 0.68

 13 top stitch @ pocket bag SNLS 0.4

14 o/l @ zipper fly 4T O/L 0.3

15 o/l front panels @ crotch 3T O/L 0.26

16 zipper attach @ left fly DNLS 0.32

17 left fly attach @ front panel (inseam & SNLS 0.34

top stitch)
18 J-stitch @ left fly APJ 0.58

19 front pocket mouth hemming DNFPH 0.3

20 pocket bag stitch to front panel @side SNLS 0.46

& top (wt w/c label@lt.)

21 right fly attach with zipper & crotch join SNLS 0.25

Assembly 

22 loop preparation 3T F/L 0.15

23 main label attach @ waist band, & w/b SNLS 0.3

joining in chain
24 top stitch @ inseam FOA 0.55

25 side seam join (attach front & back 5T O/L 0.65

panels)
26 top stitch @ side seam SNLS 0.38

27 waist band stitch WBAM 0.38

28 waist band corners finish SNLS 0.72

29 loop attach ABLA 0.65

30 bottom hemming BHM 0.33

Total                  
11.65

Full form of sewing machine name

APH - Automatic pocket hemming machine

ADPc - Automatic pockect creasin gmachine
APc - Auto pocket stitching machine
SNLS - Single needle lock stitch
FOA - Feed of the arm
3TO/L - 3 thread overlock (overedge)
5TF/L - 5 thread flat lock (cover stitch)
4TO/L - 4 thread over lock
5TO/L - 5 thread over lock
DNLS - Double neeedle lock stitch
3TF/L - 3 thread flat lock (cover stitch)
APJ - Auto J-stitch making
DNFPH - Double needle front pocket hemming
WBAM - Waistband attach machine
ABLA - Auto loop attach
BHM - Bottom hemming machine

(Note: Some of the machine names are short form of machine used for the specific operation
used by a company. Other companies may name it different way)

Sewing Process Flow Chart for Crew neck T-Shirt

Topics: Apparel Production By: Prasanta Sarkar

3241

It is always easier to understand a picture than just description. How to make a T-shirt can be
explained many times but students learnt it completely when they see it in the production floor.
A process flow chart gives them the logic how operations follow sequence one after another.

A sewing process flow chart has been depicted in the following figure to guide learners how a T
shirt is being made in a bulk production system. It is assumed that T shirt has neck tape (self bias
tape). The process flow is also showing the sequence of operations that is generally being
followed. Some factory may have a slightly varied sequence.

A crew neck T shirt has six components – Front, Back, Neck rib or Collar, Neck tape and two
sleeves. In the figure, on the top four sections of the garment component have been shown. The
arrows show the flow of operations and inside the red circles operation sequence number and
name of the operations has been written.

Figure:Sewing Process flow for T-Shirt

Operation Breakdown, Sewing Thread and SMV Calculation of a Polo Shirt

Calculation of SAM/SMV:

Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM.

Step 2: Capture cycle time for that operation by stop watch standing beside of the operator.
(cycle time: total time taken to do all works needed to complete one operation). Do time study
for consecutive five cycles. Calculate average of the 5 cycles. Time we get from time study is
called cycle time.
Basic Time = Cycle Time X Performance rating

* Performance rating: Performance rating means at what performance level operator doing the
job, considering his movement and work speed. Suppose that operator performance rating is
80%. Suppose cycle time is 0.60 minutes. Basic time = (0.60 X 80%) = 0.48 minutes

Step 3: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and
personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances
(20%) to basic time. Now we get Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM=
(0.48+0.048+0.096) = 0.624 minutes.

OPERATION BREAKDOWN AND SMV

 M/C
Name of Operation SMV Manpower
name
Placket Iron IRON 0.40 2
Placket Join Position Mark TABLE 0.30 1
Placket Join 1N2TLS 0.32 2
Placket Front Middle Cut TABLE 0.28 1
Rib Placket Servicing O/L 0.25 1
Lower Placket 2 Part Join 1N2TLS 0.30 1
2N4TO
0.28
Lower Placket O/L L 1
Lower Placket Join & Top 2
1N2TLS 0.32
Stitch
Nose Tack 1N2TLS 0.35 1
Back & Front Part Matching TABLE 0.30 1
2N4TO
0.33
Shoulder Joint & Trim L 1
Collar Servicing & Mark O/L 0.30 1
Collar Tack to Neck 1N2TLS 0.40 2
2N4TO
0.32
Collar Join L 1
Collar Piping 1N2TFL 0.30 1
Collar Top Stitch 1N2TLS 0.60 2
Placket Close & 1/16 T/S 1N2TLS 0.71 3
Placket Inner Tack 1N2TLS 0.35 1
Placket Corner Cut TABLE 0.25 1
Placket Box Make 1N2TLS 0.50 2
Cuff Servicing O/L 0.25 1
2N4TO
0.40
Cuff Join L 1
Sleeve Matching TABLE 0.30 1
2N4TO
0.43
Sleeve Join L 2
Arm Hole Top Stitch 2N3TFL 0.45 1
Cuff Opening Tack 1N2TLS 0.30 1
Sticker Remove+ Body Turn TABLE 0.20 1
2N4TO
0.50
Side Seam L 2
Cuff Top Tack 1N2TLS 0.22 1
Bottom Hem 2N3TFL 0.24 1
1N2TB
0.25
Button Hole H 1
Button attach With Mark 1N2TBA 0.40 1
Label  Make & Bottom 1N2TLS 0.43 2
 Security Tack
Total 11.53 44

Sewing Thread Consumption:

Sewing thread requirement 3.44 M for machine code 1N2TLS means to Stitch 1 Meter of Seam,
3.44 meter sewing thread is used.
Here we need to consider operational allowance 3+3=6 cm (starting point+ ending point) for
each operation for Lock Stitch and 3.5+3.5= 7 cm for chain stitch , 5+5=10 cm for Flat lock ,
6+6=12 cm for over lock with the length of each operation.
Also we need to consider 10-15% wastage on the calculated sewing thread consumption.

SEWING THREAD CONSUMPTION

M/C Name CODE Required
Thread(M/M)
Single Needle Lock Stitch 1N2TLS 3.44
Single Needle 2 Thread Flat Lock 1N2TFL 4.8
Double Needle 3 Thread Flat Lock 2N3TFL 13.2
Double Needle 4 Thread Over lock 2N4TOL 19.8
Without Needle Over lock M/C O/L 0
Button Attach 1N2TBA 0.3
Button Hole 1N2TBH 0.95
Posted by Noor Hossain at 9:12 AM

Sample Operation Breakdown of a Jacket

Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar

3116
 Question: Can I have one sample operation breakdown for a
jacket with production layout? ... asked by Aweke Zewdu

Answer:

A sample operation breakdown with SAM of each operation has been shown below. In this
article, only operation breakdown and operation SMVs are posted. Production layout will be
posted in a separate article.
Standard time shown in the below chart is determined from Time Study. List of operations and
SAM of operations may vary based on style and construction. This Operation breakdown has
been sourced from a graduation project report of a NIFT student. This Project was done in Silver
Sparks Apparel Limited, Bangalore.
Operation Breakdown and Machine Layout for Bra Manufacturing

Topics: industrial engineering By: Prasanta Sarkar

1412

Question:  Please post an article on operation breakdown & machine layout of a standard bra. I was
unable to find anything on the Internet. ... asked by Isuru.

The following operation breakdown of a bra is refer to a particular style. Note that, SAM values of the
operations may vary according to the style, seam length, attachment and work aids used and machine
type. Prior to use below mentioned SAMs and operation sequence discuss it with your engineers. As per
your request I have also attached machine layout of bra making in assembly line. To improve
machine utilization few operations are clubbed together. 

Operation Breakdown: Bra  

OP # SEWING PROCESS SAM MACHINE

1 Join Cups 0.57 SNLS
2 Attach Tape to Cups 0.73 DNLS
3 attach Elastic to side cups 0.44 3SZZ
4 Set support Panels 0.39 SNLS
5 Serge support panels 0.62 3TOL
6 Join support panels, cup and front 1.52 SNLS
7 Attach coverstitch tape to front 0.61 DNLS
8 Join backs to cups 0.55 SNLS
9 Attach coverstitch tape to sides 0.47 DNLS
10 Attach lace and tape to cups 0.76 DNLS
11 Attach elastic to band 0.90 ZZ
12 Attach upper elastic & straps  0.91 3SZZ
13 Cover support panels edges 0.54 3TOL
14 Attach hooks and eyes to straps 1.39 SNLS
15 Set eye to back 0.36 ZZ
16 Set hook to back 0.50 SNLS
17 Attach trimming to front 0.25 SNLS
18 Trim thread and inspect 1.00 MAN
Total SAM 12.51

Machine Layout for Bra making

In the machine layout figure operation numbers and machine name have been mentioned.