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Cranking Compression Test: The Tech-Assist Team

The document provides instructions for performing a cranking compression test to test cylinder sealing or compression in an engine. It describes how to prepare the engine, conduct the test by cranking the engine with a compression gauge in each spark plug hole, and read the results. Low compression in one cylinder typically indicates valve issues, while low compression in adjacent cylinders suggests a head gasket problem. Higher than normal compression in one or all cylinders could mean excessive carbon buildup. The test is an effective way to identify cylinder and compression issues like worn rings or valves.

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189 views1 page

Cranking Compression Test: The Tech-Assist Team

The document provides instructions for performing a cranking compression test to test cylinder sealing or compression in an engine. It describes how to prepare the engine, conduct the test by cranking the engine with a compression gauge in each spark plug hole, and read the results. Low compression in one cylinder typically indicates valve issues, while low compression in adjacent cylinders suggests a head gasket problem. Higher than normal compression in one or all cylinders could mean excessive carbon buildup. The test is an effective way to identify cylinder and compression issues like worn rings or valves.

Uploaded by

tia
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Cranking Compression Test

The Tech-Assist Team

When confronted with a misfire condition, what do you check first? Some techs go for ignition system issues while others
start by checking fuel system components. When those tests don’t reveal the problem, it’s time to test the engine’s ability
to support the combustion process.

Remember, just because you’re working on a late model direct-injected, 32-valve, double overhead cam engine with
variable valve timing, it still can fall victim to problems such as a burned valve, damaged piston, or worn rings.

There are many ways to test cylinder sealing or compression, but in this article, we’ll talk about one of the oldest but still
effective tests – the Cranking Compression Test.

Performing the Test


NOTE: Before you start the test, you should connect a battery charger. You want the cranking RPM to remain the
same throughout the test.

1. Remove the fuel pump and/or fuel-injection fuses or relay (no fuel entering the cylinders during the test).
2. Disable the ignition system (no spark source - fuel vapors will be blowing out of the cylinders).
3. Remove ALL spark plugs.
4. Thread one end of the compression gauge adapter hose in a spark plug hole by hand.
5. If the throttle is cable or linkage-controlled, block the throttle wide open to get as much air in the engine as
possible (OEM specs are usually determined with the throttle wide open). You can use a remote start button
or the key to crank the engine over.

If it’s electronically controlled, DO NOT block the throttle open. Use a scan tool with bi-directional control to
open the throttle. If you cannot do that, crank the engine over with the ignition key. The results may be a bit
low, but they will at least get the same amount of air.

Important Note: To yield consistent readings, always crank the engine over the same amount of times for
all cylinders. On the first cylinder you test, count the number of compression strokes it takes for the needle
to reach its peak pressure, then crank the same number of strokes on each cylinder. For example, if the
needle stops on the 4th compression stroke and does not move on the 5th, crank the engine over four times
for the remaining cylinders.

6. Write down the compression readings for each cylinder on a piece of paper.

Reading the Results


Low Compression:

1. In one cylinder usually indicates a bad intake or exhaust valve


2. In two adjacent cylinders typically means you have a bad head gasket
3. In all cylinders would mean the rings and cylinders are worn and the engine needs to be overhauled

Note: If you have a cylinder that is below 90 psi, pour 1 teaspoon of engine oil into the plug hole, turn the
engine over 3 or 4 times, and retest. If the reading jumps way up, the piston rings are worn. If not, it’s
probably valve issues or piston damage. To better identify the exact problem, perform a Cylinder Leak-
down Test.

Higher Compression than Factory Specifications:

1. In one cylinder could mean excessive carbon build up in that cylinder


2. In all cylinders could mean excessive carbon build up on all cylinders

Keep in mind, you’re testing cylinder sealing properties and not it’s capacity for to flow air. For that you will need to
perform a Running Compression Test.

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