USER

GUIDE
FOR
MIL-DOT
EQUIPPED
OPTICS

Michael Haugen 2002 1

 This guide is intended to provide the user of a Mil-Dot equipped optic with information on what
the reticle is used for, the basics of its use and how to train yourself to better employ and realize
the full potential of this reticle.

SUBJECT PAGE

GENERAL INFORMATION 3

WHERE MIL DOTS COME FROM 4

MIL DOT SPECIFICATIONS 6

HOW TO USE MIL DOTS 10

RANGE ESTIMATION 10
Mechanics of Range Estimation 10
Reading the Reticle 11
The Math 13
How to Train at Range Estimation 15

WIND HOLD OFFS 15

Train at Calling the Wind 16

MOVING TARGETS 17
How to Train 18

TABLE OF MILS 19

DISCLAIMER
THE INTENT OF THIS DOCUMENT IS TO PROVIDE SOME INFORMATION TO ENABLE USERS OF MIL
DOT EQUIPPED OPTICS TO DEVELOP SKILL IN THEIR EMPLOYMENT. THE ACTUAL USE OF THIS
INFORMATION IS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE USER. MISUSE OF THIS INFORMATION COULD
RESULT IN LEGAL RAMIFICATIONS. TREAT ALL WEAPONS AS IF THEY ARE LOADED, NEVER
ASSUME THIS AND BE DEADLY SERIOUS ABOUT IT. NEVER USE UNSUSPECTING OR UNAWARE
INDIVIDUALS AS MIL PRACTICE OBJECTS.

THIS DOCUMENT IS NOT ALL INCLUSIVE; IT TAKES PATIENCE AND PRACTICE TO BECOME
SKILLED AT ALL SHOOTING ASPECTS. NO AMOUNT OF MONEY OR DEVICE IS FOOL PROOF
MEANING THAT YOU CANNOT “BUY SKILL”. USERS SHOULD PRACTICE ANY AND ALL
TECHNIQUES POSSIBLE TO DEVELOP APPLICABLE METHODS.

Michael Haugen 2002 2

 GENERAL INFORMATION
Congratulations on your recent purchase or interest in the use of an optical product that features
the mil-dot reticle. Lets begin by issuing a disclaimer; some of you out there may find some
controversial information contained in this manual, however this information has been verified
and tested by a variety of professional sources. Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned user of
mil-dot equipped optics, you will find something useful contained in this document.

There are three basic reasons that people purchase optics with this reticle; to estimate range, lead
moving targets and/or to hold off for winds. The problem with this reticle is that it requires a
little training and some practice. Having said this however, this reticle is extremely versatile and
useful and when properly used will allow the shooter to accurately engage and hit targets at
ranges previously thought impossible.

In the beginning, new shooters will doubt the accuracy of this system because ranges they
previously thought were distant equate through the math to be allot closer. This is very typical
because most shooters way over estimate range. How many times have you heard “I took that
animal at 500 yards” when in reality it was probably under 200 (many times under 100). As time
goes on with more practice you will notice that your ability to estimate range by eye will
dramatically increase which in turn will serve as a “check” against your “miling” allowing to
quickly estimate the range and engage the target.

Michael Haugen 2002 3

 WHERE DID MIL DOTS COME FROM AND WHY ARE THEY USED?

The milliradian is an engineering term for a unit of trigonometric measurement; specifically a

milliradian is used in the engineering community to measure angles as derived from a circle
(verses right angles). The engineering community uses 6283 milliradians to a circle.

Earlier in the 20th century, the U.S. Infantry used “Mils” (see specifications for definition and
value) to correct the trajectory for indirect fire and crew served weapons. This was done mainly
because Mils are a finer measurement than degrees and enabled them to be more accurate. The
Infantry divided a circle into 6280 parts or 1/6280th = 1 mil. This was a slight deviation from the
truth but it was easier for them to compute, work with and provided even number results. The
Artillery also decided to use this system, but concluded that 6280 was not fine enough for
accurate precision fire. They rounded the number to 6400, which equates to 1 mil or 17.8 mils =
1 degree. This system became institutionalized and remains widely used in all services today.

It should be noted that the term “mils” relates to the military variation whereas “milliradians”
remains an engineering term.

The USMC was the first U.S. military service to in corporate a mil dot reticle in sniper optics by
having it installed by J. Unertl for use on the M40 sniper weapons system. When the Army
decided to incorporate a range estimation tool into it sniper optics it chose this system and had
Leupold make the reticle accordingly. I should clarify this point for those out there not familiar
with the Leupold M3A Ultra currently used by the US Army. Many people believe that the Mark
IV M3 that they see advertised by various retailers is the same as the optics on the Army M24.
Although they are identical in appearance, they are not the same. Specifically the reticles are
different; the M3 Ultra uses an etched glass reticle with round or Army mil-dots, whereas the
available Mark IV M3s sport a wire reticle with the USMC oblong dots. Since the U.S. military
adopted mil dots for use by its snipers, this reticle pattern has become a favorite of law
enforcement, varmint shooters and hunters.

Recently there has been a lot of discussion (read argument) around whether or
not the Army and the USMC use different moa values on their reticles. A call to
the Leupold engineers will result in their stating that all Leupold reticles (military
or commercial) use 3.438 (same as the USMC), however every Army manual or
reference states that 3.375 is the correct number. So what is the correct number?
Research into the original Army requirements documents shows that only the
physical distance between dots and that it equate to 1 mil is articulated, however
further discussions with the engineer reveal two things; a mil is a military term
and that the Army only recognizes 6400 mils to a circle which in turn equates to
3.375moa to a mil. Why then did the USMC go with 6283 or 3.438. The answer
probably lies in the fact that an engineer more than likely developed the reticle
using the dots and because it was an engineering term stuck with the 6283 being
unaware of the 6400 number. While all of this makes for a great argument, the last
interesting part of the research revealed that the error acceptance on the Army
reticle exceed the difference between the two (Army and USMC). Therefore the
actual value could and probably is somewhere in between. The shooter using

Michael Haugen 2002 4

either reticle will never realize the difference in mil value (NOT dot size or
measurement methods). The end result; use 3.5 moa to a mil and practice. It
should also be noted that MG (ret) Julian Hatcher states in his book “Hatchers
Notebook” first printing August 1947 on page 403 “one mil = 3.375 moa”.

If you are a purest, use 3.375 for an Army type reticle and 3.438 for a USMC type
reticle, otherwise use 3.5 for either.

The popularity of the mil dots has resulted in them being offered by virtually every optic
manufacturer today. This interest has also resulted in numerous variations being developed by
several companies at the request of users. Most of these variations come in the form of dot
spacing and number of dots presented. The most exciting news in the mil dot reticle world is the
recent development of the GEN II Mil Dot reticle offered by Premier Reticle which dramatically
increases the versatility of the reticle.

Regardless of which version of reticle you have purchased, I HIGHLY encourage you to read
this manual and PRACTICE, PRACTICE and PRACTICE and you will have a system that is
time and combat proven to deliver reliable and consistent hits to maximum effective range of the
weapon it is used on.

Michael Haugen 2002 5

 MIL-DOT SPECIFICATIONS
The term or measurement of Mils used to configure and use the Mil-dot [equipped optic] in
estimating range. Here are the engineering (or true) specifications.

1 Milliradian = 1/1000th of a radian, 1 radian = 2 PI

1 Milliradian = .0573 degrees or 6283 parts of a circle

As I mentioned in the previous section, the military changed the engineering measurement to suit
their needs. In the arena of sniping the US Army and the USMC choice different paths; one
opting for the military standard while the other choosing a pure or true path. Here are the related
specifications:

ARMY: 360 degrees = 1 circle

6400 mils = 1 circle, 360
17.8 mils = 1 degree
360 degrees divided by 6400 = .0563 multiplied by 60 = 3.375 MOA or
1 mil = 3.375 moa

USMC: 360 degrees = 1 circle

6283 mils = 1 circle
17.5 mils = 1 degree
360 degrees divided by 6283 = .0573 multiplied by 60 = 3.438 MOA or
1 mil = 3.438 moa

Michael Haugen 2002 6

Therefore:
ARMY: 3.375 moa multiplied by 1.047” = 3.53” @ 100 yards
USMC: 3.438 moa multiplied by 1.047” = 3.6” @ 100 yards

** Note: 1 Minute of Angle = 1.047” @ 100 yards (True)

While we are distinguishing between Army and USMC reticles, I feel it is prudent to mention
another difference. Not only are the mils themselves different but the value of the dots is also
different. Army dots while commonly called ¾ mil dots are in reality 3/4 MOA dots (or .22 mil).
This is to say that one dot subtends (covers) three quarters of a minute of angle or .75 inch at 100
yards. The USMC dots are 1/4 mil dots (or .86 moa) from edge to edge. Each USMC oblong dot
subtends .86” at 100 yards. The new Premier Gen II reticle further adds to the mix by presenting
a reticle that offers a dot that is .2 mil in diameter (.675 moa) or .675” @ 100 yards.

With Army dots, a quarter mil (1/4 mil) is the width of the dot from edge to edge plus the width
of the line. As you can see from the diagram the 1/4 mil, ½ mil and 1-mil locations are depicted.
The commonly missed identified are the 1/4 mil and the 3/4 mil.

Michael Haugen 2002 7

USMC dots, the measurements are easier to identify and remember.

The Gen II reticle has taken this further;

Michael Haugen 2002 8

You will notice that there are differences in each reticle. None are truly better than the others,
however depending on things like previous training and intended use, one reticle may appeal to
you or be more useful than another. Keep in mind that all of the above do the same things;
additionally there are variety of other custom mil dot reticles available that will give the shooter
varying degrees of capability. The point here is you must know and practice with whatever
reticle you have.

I am sure that all of the above is somewhat confusing but you have to remember that the mil-dot
system merely provides aiming reference points and a range estimation tool. Where the actual
locations of the 1/4, 1/2˝, 3/4 or 1 mil points are depends on where your starting point is. What I
have drawn above gives you the quick reference points. If you are set on using center - center or
edge - edge starting points then you will have to find those subsequent points. The bottom line is
two fold. One, know what the values are of the reticle you are using. Two, use the same points
all of the time. Do not get “wrapped around the axle” about what is best (edge to edge or center
to center), just pick which ever one is easiest for you to remember and use.

One of the problems today is that all of the reference material available does not make the
distinction between the two reticles and assumes the reader knows which system he has (and that
there is a difference). The US Army manuals, TC 23-14, FM 23-10, and ST 31-20-4 all use the
“round” dots, while the USMC manual FMFM 1-3B uses the oval dots. Civilian reference like
John Plaster’s ”Ultimate Sniper” which plagiarizes several manuals use the Army dots as the
example but use USMC math. Additionally, optic manufacturers do not always tell you how to
use their reticle, many times because they themselves do not know how to use them.

Michael Haugen 2002 9

 HOW TO USE MIL DOTS
I am sure that most of you have skipped right to this page, as you want to jump ahead and get to
using the optic. I have to HIGHLY recommend that you at least look at the diagrams and values
associated with the reticle patterns listed under specifications. All right then, lets get to it. The
vast majority of users will employ the optic primarily to estimate range, some will also use it to
hold for wind and some will use it to calculate and hold leads on moving targets. I will address
the latter two uses further into this instruction.

RANGE ESTIMATION

There are two components to range estimation; the mechanics and the math. The mechanics
encompass the physical methods of placing the reticle on the target and reading the reticle. The
math is taking the “mils read” and converting it to a usable range.

THE MECHANICS

This is definitely the hardest part of range estimation using the mil dot reticle. It requires the
shooter/use to place the reticle on the target (of known size), hold it long enough to accurately
read it (depending how accurate you are trying to be to the nearest .1 mil).

Whenever the majority of people think of a reticle on a target they envision the center of the
cross hair placed on the desired point of impact (POI). In order to use a mil dot reticle to estimate
range the shooter/user can use a variety of methods, all of which produce the same results. The
main differences in the methods are what the shooter/user is most comfortable with and what the
target is exposing.

The MOST important aspect of using the mil dot reticle for range estimation is a STEADY
HOLD on the target. As you use the reticle, you will realize just how hard it really is to hold the
reticle on the target. Most shooters will tend to move the reticle in the direction that they are
reading, however many shooters will do the opposite. The shooter must practice shooting
positions to determine what is best. All but the best shooters are able to hold a rifle/optic steady
enough without a rest or support to accurately read the reticle. Shooters should ALWAYS seek
to use some form of rest, bipod, sling etc. to develop a STABLE, DURABLE, and SUSTAINABLE
shooting platform. When attempting to estimate range of living (for now) objects, it is imperative
that the shooter be practiced and be able to read the scale quickly and accurately because they
never stay in one place very long so. In order to develop this skill the shooter must practice,
practice and practice (we will cover practice techniques later) using the reticle against targets at
different ranges and of different sizes. Additionally the shooter should try all of the methods to
determine which he/she prefers and the advantages/disadvantages of each.

Michael Haugen 2002 10

READING THE RETICLE. In order to use the reticle you must be able to read it. As
mentioned elsewhere in this manual you must be able to read the reticle to the nearest .1 mil.
Please refer to the diagrams depicted in SPECIFICATIONS for a break down of the specific
reticles. Here is a generic break down of a mil dot reticle:

.75

.65
.5 1
.35 mil
.25

The picture is not to scale but provided to illuminate the discussion. Notice that what is depicted
is not to the nearest .1 mil. To do so to scale the drawing would be too crowded to be useful. As
depicted the .25, .5 and .75 mil are usually easy to find, the user must find the .3, .4, .6, etc
locations. Keep in mind that although there is not an exact point annotated on the reticle, it
behooves the shooter to learn to “guesstimate” where these points on the reticle are to lessen the
range estimation error.

Regardless of which method you are going to use, you MUST know the target size (you will see
this again). For the sake of this document, we will use the following;

10
inches

You will notice that Gordy the Ground Hog is 10 inches tall when he stands, which in your world
is the average ground hog height.

Michael Haugen 2002 11

Once you have the target size you have to decide on which method to use in order to obtain a mil
reading. Here are some of the more popular methods;

CROSS HAIR METHOD. As the name applies, this method

Mils are
uses the center of the cross hair placed at a point on the target read
then the reticle is read up, down, left or right. Keep in mind here

that the cross hair can be placed on any point and the target and
mils read from there. This is the most widely used method
because it is the most natural, placing the cross hairs on the
target.

Center of
cross hair is
placed at the
base of the
target
HEAVY POST METHOD. Similar to the cross hair method, Mils are
read here
the heavy post located on any of the four sides (top, bottom, left and
right) is placed onto a base line and then mils read from there. The
benefit of this method is that the heavy post is easier for most people to
hold on a distant target (especially older shooters).

Top of post is
placed at the
base of the

MIL DOT METHOD. Again, like the other two methods, a distinct Mils are read
aiming point is placed on the target and mils read from there. In this here

case, a dot is use verses the cross hair or a heavy post. This method is
favored by some because the dots are easy to place on the target and for
some easier to hold. One thing to keep in mind is that you are already
into the mil scale when you place the reticle on the target and you must The mil dot is placed
factor this into your calculations. Again remember, you MUST begin at the base of the
target
reading at the BASE DOT or factor its value is you begin elsewhere (i.e.
if you begin reading from the top of the post as depicted above the
reading would be 3.4 mils verses if you begin at the base dot which
would be 2.4 mil and would be CORRECT).

Michael Haugen 2002 12

 THE MATH

There are two ways that you can derive range using a mil dot equipped optic, to manually
compute it either by long hand or by using an electronic calculator OR to use one of several
shooter aids that are on the market. The most notable shooter aid available is the Mil Dot
Master; a slide rule type device, which provides the shooter with the ability to line up “mils
read” with the target size in inches and gives you the range to the target. The other “device” is
what is termed a “cheat sheet” and resembles a spreadsheet depicting mils read on normally the
left side and target sizes across the top. By intersecting the two, you arrive at the range to the
target.

While these devices are definitely handy, anyone using this reticle should know the math
associated with it so that when they forget the device or cheat sheet they can still use the reticle
to its maximum ability. Therefore, we will begin with the math (long way) of doing this.

CALCULATIONS

Using a mil dot reticle is a mathematical proposition requiring some calculating in order to arrive
at a solution. For range estimation problems there are three components; target size (Tz), mils
read (m) and range (R). You MUST have two of the three to arrive at the third component. Most
commonly, the shooter will know the target size and by using the reticle will arrive at mils read,
here are the formulas;

Target size (in yards) x 1000

Mils read = yards to target

Target size (in meters) x 1000

Mils read = meters to target

In short:
Tz
R=m

I am sure you notice that target size is required in yards or meters. Most of the time you know
your target in inches (varmints), therefore the below formulas will help you convert and arrive at
a usable range. The first formula for each is the easiest but not the most precise. Try them all out
and decide for yourself what is best;

For Meters: Object size (in) divided by 39 x 1000 divided by mils read

Object size (in) x 25.4 divided by mils read

For Yards: Object size (in) divided by 36 x 1000 divided by mils read

Michael Haugen 2002 13

 Object size (in) x 27.77 divided by mils read

Lets try this out; You are a varmint hunter and looking down range you see a fat ground hog that
happens to stand up looking around. You think he is 10 inches tall and place your reticle on him.
You mil Mr. Ground hog at .6 mils, plugging what you now have into the formula this is the
result;

10 inches divided by 36 x 1000 divided by .6 equals 462 yards OR

10 inches x 27.77 divided by .6 equals 462 yards OR
10 inches divided by 39 x 1000 divided by .6 equals 427 meters OR
10 inches x 25.4 divided by .6 equals 423 meters

Shooter Aids
As mentioned above, you can also enlist the help of a shooter aid
such as the Mil Dot Master (MDM) that will take the math out of
this effort and provide you with an quick firing solution. The
MDM is easy to use and will offer the shooter with more options
than most will ever need (such as slant range corrections). For
those interested in the MDM, I encourage you to visit their web
site at www.mildot.com where you can use a virtual example. One
lat word on the MDM, you MUST read the instructions and
understand them for it to work, it is NOT magic and will not do all
the work for you.

Another form of shooter aide is what is termed a

“cheat sheet”. This is a spreadsheet like form that
shows mils read on one side and target size across
the top. This is a simplified version of the MDM
but does not require any sliding or moving of
anything. Down side is that it only does one thing,
provide range from target size and mils read. I
will provide a larger version of this diagram at
the end of this manual.

So you can see Mr. Ground Hog is about to have some problems if you can also call the wind
and hold the target which brings us to the next subject, using the reticle to hold for wind.

Michael Haugen 2002 14

HOW TO TRAIN AT RANGE ESTIMATION. Here are some pointers for increasing your
range estimation skill.
• Construct several targets of known dimension such as 1-yard square (the more the better)
and number so that the number can be seen from a distance (the number should be about
the size of the target)
• Place these targets out at various ranges ensuring that they can be seen from the start
point if possible across varied terrain. The targets should be placed in locations that are
accessible by vehicle to allow using the odometer. Do not determine range as you are
emplacing the targets, which will only jade your efforts.
• Return to the start point and with a note pad number, the left side with the number of
targets you have put out.
• Now, without aid look at the targets you have put out and estimate the range by eye.
Write down this figure on your pad next to the corresponding target number. This will
help you develop your “by eye” skills and assist you in estimating range by optics.
• After you have finished the “by eye” method, take up a stable shooting position with your
UNLOADED rifle or mil dot equipped spotting scope.
• Using the above techniques, mil the targets writing down the mil reading after each
corresponding number.
• Do the math or use the shooter aid to determine the range.
• Using the odometer (or other method such as laser range finder, map, etc) determine the
actual range to the targets.
• Compare this to what you determined by eye and using mils.
• You can also do the same as above by leaving the targets in place and moving your
position.
• You can also vary target size and using the calculations or shooter aid determine the
range/s.

Routine exercises as above will develop your ability to accurately and quickly estimate the range
to any target.

WIND HOLD OFFS

Holding off for wind although simple sounding is an extremely difficult proposition and next to
range estimation the most difficult of all shooter SKILLS to master. We could devote pages to
this issue and describe a variety of methods to determine wind, however this manual is about
mils not wind calling. We cannot however talk about using mils to hold off winds without at
least discussing winds a little.

There are three components to calling wind, identifying the wind velocity in mph, identifying
wind direction, and identifying wind value in minutes of angle or mils (derived from the speed).
There are several ways to accomplish these three things;

WIND VELOCITY: Wind velocity is normally expressed in miles per hour (mph) or perhaps
kilometers per hour (kph). Either way, wind has a speed that must be identified/recognized.
There are two ways to determine wind; use of an instrument to measure it or by visual indicators.

Michael Haugen 2002 15

The next aspect is where to measure/read the wind; at the shooters position, mid range or at the
target. Without getting too deep into this issue I will share how I do it and you can make up your
own mind.

I use visual indicators (mirage and vegetation) to identify the wind velocity and direction. I do
this because I am a tactical shooter and cannot afford to use an instrument at my position without
compromising it. I look at the wind at mid range and at the target because this is where the bullet
is under the most contact with the wind.

There are other sources that can give you what the value of mirage or waving vegetation is,
therefore I will not go into it here suffice to say that like the rest of this issue PRACTICE,
PRACTICE, PRACTICE are the keys to being able to identify and call the wind.

Once you have determined the wind speed and direction, you can give it a value in MOA or
Mils. The moa or mil value is normally developed through the use of ballistic charts from a
variety of sources (like Sierra Bullets http://www.sierrabullets.com/software/index.cfm ). The
value will be dependent of bullet weight, muzzle velocity, wind speed and range to target.

Most experienced shooters “SWAG” the wind and shoot, what they “feel” is right. By doing, this
they develop experience in what a given wind is worth in mils or minutes (note: you need to
build the experience from correct speeds and values, therefore you will have to measure it in the
beginning). If you determine the wind in moa you must convert it to mils then hold that IN THE
DIRECTION OF THE WIND. Of course, it is much easier to determine the wind in mils thus
eliminating the need to convert. Wind in mils will normally be in quarters (1/4, ½, ¾, etc)
keeping in mind that one-mil equals 3.375 or 3.438 moa depending on the reticle you are using.

Lets recap; if you are looking down range at a target located 300 yards from you and you
determine there to be an 8 mph left to right wind present at the target. Consulting a handy wind
chart you see that the wind is worth 2 moa. In order to figure out the mil hold off you have to
determine what 2 moa is equates to in mils. Since there is 3.375 moa in a mil, 2 moa is 59% of a
mil or just over a ½ mil hold TO THE LEFT. That is you place the center of the reticle ½ mil to
the left of the target to compensate for the wind.

TRAINING ON CALLING WIND. Like everything else, this requires practice, practice and
more practice. Unlike range estimation, wind calling will require you to also shoot to confirm or
deny your call. One way to gain experience is to attend competitions even as an observer and
watch experienced shooter deal with the wind. There you can see calls (you will have to make
some friends there first) and the results on the target. I should mention the use of so-called
“Kentucky” windage, which is usually firing multiple rounds until a hit is obtained. This may be
applicable for some of you. In order to develop a skill at calling wind, you must start using
known wind, for this an anemometer (wind meter) is needed. Look at the wind, make a guess and
then measure it. Over time, your skill will increase to the point that you will become accurate.

Michael Haugen 2002 16

 MOVING TARGETS
Some of you will use the mil dot reticle to engage moving targets. This is an extremely difficult
task not to mention hard to practice. Professional shooters will use known distance ranges with
moving targets to practice this skill.

There are three levels of movers; walkers, fast walk or slow run (trot) and run. You notice that I
have not listed “dead sprint” or fast run, this is because engaging targets at these speeds is
beyond the scope of most shooters and should not be attempted unless you are extremely skilled.
Of the three speeds, you can of course further sub-divide them but you only make it harder to
identify. Like wind, you must be able to determine target speed from which you can determine a
“lead”. A lead will be determined by not only target speed but also range to the target and caliber
being used. You can mathematically calculate a lead by using a good ballistics program like that
offered by Sierra Bullets to determine the “Time Of Flight” of a given projectile/caliber for a
given distance. You might want to take a look at the delivered energy at that range to see where
your limits should be with reference to the ability to drop the target. Once you have the TOF and
range you then factor in rifle lock time and target speed to arrive at a lead.

Time it takes the TGT to get from A to B

A B
D

Time it takes the bullet to

get from C to D

The math that is involved here is pretty simple, but requires a little “computing”. Say we are
looking at a walking Deer. Lets say that the deer moves at 2 mph; seeing as how there are 5280
feet in 1 mile, therefore there are 10560 feet in 2 miles, divide this by 60 (60 minutes in an hour)
and we arrive at 176 feet in a minute, divided by 60 (60 seconds in a minute) and we arrive at
2.93 feet per second. We are shooting a .308 Winchester from 300 yards using 168 grain Match
King (I know it is not a preferred hunting bullet) with a muzzle velocity of 2650 feet per second
and a TOF of .382677903 seconds (to travel the 300 yards). We are shooting a Remington 700
BDL with a lock time (time it takes the firing pin to hit and ignite the primer) of .003 seconds.
Therefore, we add the lock time to the TOF to arrive at a total time from trigger being pulled
until the bullet impacts at the target area equals .3856779 seconds (TOF plus lock time). We now
have to figure out how far our target will move in the amount of time it takes for the bullet to get
there. As we said the deer is moving at a speed of 2.93 fps divided by 12 gives us 35.16 inches
per second. Taking this number we multiply the Total Time of Flight (TTOF) to arrive at a
distance of 13.5 inches, or better said the deer will move 13.5 inches in the time it takes the

Michael Haugen 2002 17

bullet to reach him. 13.5 inches equals 4.5 minutes of angle at 300 yards (1 moa @ 300 yards
equals 3 inches). With the given 3.375 minutes of angle to one Mil, we now arrive at a hold of
1.3 mils but since 1.3 Mil is not in the reticle, we have to use 1.25 or 1 ¼ Mils. Here it is
graphically;

When the deer

gets here, you
would pull the
trigger

HOW TO TRAIN. As noted in the beginning of this section this skill is extremely difficult to
train. However, if you have the means or devise some way of making a moving target in an area
where you can train you should do so at every opportunity. Here are some pointers;

• Start with known target speed, preferably slow and build speed as skill increases. Do not
increase target speed until you can hit them 90% or better all of the time.
• Use a target size that at a minimum replicates the kill zone of your intended target. In the
beginning, a larger target should be used to show hits to allow you to adjust your
leads/actions.
• Begin training at close ranges, i.e. 50 yards. Work your way back as your skill increases.
• You should use a partner positioned slightly behind your shoulder of your shooting side
with a spotting scope that is as close to the line of bore as possible. He should look for
bullet trace (vapor trail of the bullet) and provide you with feedback as to where the
bullet is going.

Michael Haugen 2002 18

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Michael Haugen 2002 19