A Project Report on

“Quality Manual Analysis of Ann Taylor”

Submitted in partial fulfillment for the Degree of

Master of Fashion Management

Under the guidance of

Professor

Dr. Gulnaz Banu

Department of Fashion Management Studies

On

30 April, 2020

By

Ayushi Srivastava

Neha Kabra

Nidhi Sharma

Prerna Sen

Shruti Arora

Department of Fashion Management Studies (2019-2021)

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BENGALURU-560102

 DECLARATION

We hereby declare that this project submitted to National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bengaluru
in partial fulfillment for the award of Master of Fashion Management is the original work carried out
by us under the guidance and supervision of Dr.Gulnaz Banu, Department of Fashion Management
Studies and NIFT Bengaluru.

We, further declare that this project or part thereof has not been submitted in any form for any other
degree or diploma. All information included from other sources has been duly acknowledged.

Ayushi Srivastava

Neha Kabra

Nidhi Sharma

Prerna Sen

Shruti Arora

Place: Bengaluru

Date:30 April, 2020

 Acknowledgment

We would like to take this opportunity to express our sincere gratitude to Dr. Gulnaz Banu for this
opportunity to work on this project and guiding us through the entire process.

Thank You

Ayushi Srivastava

Neha Kabra

Nidhi Sharma

Prerna Sen

Shruti Arora
 Table of Contents

Introduction 1
Procedures for Development….………….……………………………………………………………………………………………….1
Corporate Product Testing Program….………………………………………………………………………………………………..1
Development Testing…....…………………………………………………………………………………………...........................2
Production Testing……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..3
Test Requet Procedures……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..5

Product Performance.………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..6

Infant/Toddler/Childrenwear Requirement & Testing ……………………………………………………………………….6

Conclusion.………………………………………………………………………………………………...........................................8

References….……………………………………………….…………………………………………………………………………………….8
 Abstract

For this assignment, the quality manual of Ann Taylor has been deeply studied and comprehended.
Ann Taylor manual is divided into two parts. First Ninety-nine pages cover the various Testing
standards, Procedures, protocols undertaken by the company pertaining to raw material and finished
products they offer whereas the second part of manual covers detailed instructions for
Infants/Toddlers/Children wear.

Henceforth, obtained knowledge is put in the quality report by making flowcharts and expressing the
learnings with the brevity of words. Tables in the Manual are interpreted and detailed with minimum
required words. Ann Taylor Manual seems very comprehensive and helped us gain much about the
quality standards.

The Brand caters to Affluent customers and is known for high-quality products so it was a careful
selection for this assignment in order to attain, imbibe familiarity and proficiency of Testing
standards. This brand has a high variety of products which helped us to learn the application of
fabrics and particular testings for varied products done strategically. Brand Pays great attention to
kids to wear due to which they feature additional measures in this direction.

Quality standards prescribed in the manual like AATCC 20/20 A and many others have been closely
studied from its website in order to understand their details but same has not been put in the report
as that would have made report unnecessarily lengthy and bulky proving to be counterproductive.

INTRODUCTION
Ann Inc. is an American group of specialty apparel retail chain stores for women formerly known as
Ann Taylor (1954 – 2011). The company was founded in 1954 and is headquartered in New York City.
It currently operates as a subsidiary of Ascena Retail Group. The stores offer classic styled suits,
separates, dresses, shoes and accessories. The brand is marketed under five divisions: Ann Taylor,
Loft, Lou & Grey, Ann Taylor Factory and Loft Outlet.

Ann Taylor has been known for their quality workwear and suiting. Their production management
and quality assurance departments establish the technical specifications for all merchandise and
inspect merchandise for quality, including periodic in-line inspections while goods are in production
to identify potential problems prior to shipment. Upon receipt merchandise is inspected on a test
basis for uniformity of size and color, as well as for conformity with specifications and overall quality
of manufacturing – Ann Inc. Annual Report.

PROCEDURES FOR DEVELOPMENT

At ANN Taylor, before going for production or development of any product, supplier has to prepare
an Yarn or Fabric Information Sheet which is shared with Ann Taylor Developer. These forms will be
shared further with New York Sourcing in order to get confirmation to either pursue or
drop/substitute the quality, depending on the end use. If the quality is suitable for further
production, fabrics will be evaluated before bulk production.

CORPORATE PRODUCT TESTING PROGRAM ( To be followed by suppliers)

 Ann Taylor basic testing program monitor and ensures compliance with applicable legislation and
corporate quality standards. Basic test packages have been developed, including trim components,
yarns, textiles, and garments. All products, including trim components, yarns, textiles, and
garments are tested at Production stage prior to shipment.

 All finished products care and content are supposed to be appropriately labeled in accordance with
United States Federal Trade Commission Regulations.

 Each supplier is responsible for the submission of the required number of samples, in all styles and
all colors purchased, for evaluation and is required to submit the required number of samples to
the laboratory accompanied by the completed Ann Taylor Test Request Form (see pages 44-46)

 Ann Taylor will be monitoring to ensure that all products are tested.

This independent testing is required to verify that all products are in compliance with all
applicable legislation and established performance standards.

1. Spinner’s Certificate- It is a document used by spinner to confirm a certain type of fiber, including
trademarks, used in spinning. Spinner’s certificate is valid ONLY for 12 months from date of issue.

2. Fur and Faux Fur- Ann Taylor Stores Corporation has a “no-fur” policy for all brands.In order to
ensure compliance with the corporate policy on real fur, items that contain faux fur are
accompanied by a test report confirming this prior to shipping.
3. Shearling - Garment Containing Shearling (not fur) require fiber content test performed on bulk
raw material. This test is performed by a CCMI approved laboratory and submitted to Ann Taylor
prior to shipping.

4. Restricted substances compliance- A restricted substances list is followed and test are carried out
for the same. It is mandatory that all raw materials and finished products shipped are in full
compliance
(See pages 7-12).
Ann Taylor make sure that that their products are safe for their coustmer’s end use and are free
from harmful dyes, solvent, pesticides, chemicals, harmful metals and gases etc.

If any raw material fails initial testing for restricted substances it must indicate subsequent test
request form and what corrective action has been taken to ensure compliance with Ann Taylor’s
standards.

In Ann Taylor testing is done for both Raw material as well as finished product at development and
production stages.

DEVELOPMENT TESTING

The Development Testing Program test products and evaluate specific performance
characteristics of “questionable” or “new” trims, components, yarns, or textiles prior to
confirming the bulk production order.Conducting a test during the development stages of
production does not exempt the supplier from testing bulk production in accordance with the full
basic testing packages.

1. Trim Component Testing

Specialized trim and embellishment components, both functional and decorative, may be tested
to assure that the trim component meets the requirements prior to selection for production.
Zippers are exempted from the test. Ann Taylor is responsible for the incurred charges.

2. Yarn Testing (If Requested)

Yarn in Yarn Form- It is performed by the sourcing country in unfinished form. Development of
yarn is submitted as fully processed product. The test Standard used is ASTM.(Please see page
14) for various test done to know physical characteristics of Yarn. The tolerance level ranges from
± 3% to ± 10% until specified otherwise.
Yarn in Knit Form- It is performed for every stitch and gauge by the country which is
manufacturing the garment. The test is done to check the flammability, bursting strength, pilling,
stretch recovery, dimensional stability to washing and dry cleaning. (Please refer to pg 15) for test
done to know performance of the product.

3. Fabric Testing (If Requested) - For testing of fabric min length of fabric is 2.5 Yard length and 1
Yard width is required for single colour in case fabric is of multi-colour, 1 Yard length and 1 Yard
width of every colour fabric is required. (Please refer page no. 16) for Basic DevelopmentTest
Pacakge .Supplier is responsible for charge incurred before wash/ finish where as Ann Taylor is
responsible after wash/finish. Garment manufacturer is responsible for testing garment after
wash/finish.
PRODUCTION TESTING

The Production Testing Program test products and evaluate specific performance characteristics
of trim, yarn, textile, or garment prior to shipment. If the final fabric has mechanical
(wash)/chemical finish, the basic test package must be performed on finished fabric.

1. Trim Component Testing- All trim components, both functional and decorative (except for adult
Coats, Ideal & YKK zipper components) are required to be tested in accordance with the following
protocols. Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces).
There are various types of trims which are used in making of a garment, it includes metallic and
nonmetallic trims, zipper, Patches, appliqués, twill tapes, Rubber, soft plastic patches and Lables.
In order to know the quality of material and various properties of trim, some tests are done as per
global standards opted by ANN taylor, (please refer pages 17-25).

st
2. Yarn Testing - Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards, 1 color minimum
width 36” ,1 yard each additional color minimum width 36” 1 cone, 10 yards minimum.
Yarn in Yarn form ( including yarn testing protocol ) - All yarns are tested in accordance with
the full Basic Yarn Testing Package. Samples in all colors from the first bulk production is
submitted to an Ann Taylor approved testing laboratory for evaluation.(Please refer to
page 27) for physical, colourfastness and performance properties test and required
standards.
Yarn in Knit form (Testing at Production Stage) - Full Garment testing is performed by
manufacturing country per one color style and for every stitch and gauge.(Please refer to page
28) for physical and performance properties test and required standards.

3. Fabric Testing

Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards 1st color, minimum width 36”.1 yard each
additional color, Minimum width 36” . Fabric testing is responsibility of Fabric Suppliers. The full
basic textile package must be done on the first production dye lot of each fabric. Test report will
be valid for two seasons. (Ann Taylor will specify if any additional tests must be done depending
on the fabric).

For each quality textile, only one color is required to be fully tested in accordance with the full
basic textile testing package. Each additional color of the same quality is only required to be tested
for all applicable colorfastness tests.In addition, the fabric supplier must test each dye lot
internally to assure that all fabrics meet the requirements.

For garments produced at vertically integrated manufacturing plants, the factory is required to
submit both the textiles and garments independently for evaluation in accordance with both the
full basic textile and garment testing packages. (please refer to page 29-30 ) for general fabric
testing requirements.

4. Garment Production Testing

Number of sample required for testing: 3. Garment Supplier is responsible for garment testing and
cost of testing as per ANN Taylor standards.
Garment is to be send for testing to the Laboratory as per ANN Taylor standards before bulk
production. Also, garment should have all the trims and accessories attached, in order to have all
test done in one go. Garments must be tested in the production stage and test report will be valid
for two seasons.
 Garment Test - The purpose of garment testing is to evaluate all the different components of a
garment together while being cleaned three times (one time for drycleaning) according to the care
label, and checked for shrinkage, puckering, colour bleeding and all related test to see garment
performance and appearance.
All test including garment wash, enzyme wash, stone wash is to be done after the garment is
finished.If there is any Zipper attached to the garment, the operability, chain crosswise, top stop
holding, bottom stop holding and holding strength of slider lock tests are required.
For dyed fabric colour fastness test will be added. If 2-3 different colors are present, mock-ups to
be made of all different colors for testing.If the same garment style is made by more than one
supplier, it must be tested individually from each supplier.
(Please refer to pages 51-80 for testing protocol of garments based on their product category)

Figure 1: Flow chart showing process for procedure and testing

TEST REQUEST PROCEDURES

As ANN Taylor is sourcing testing from outside, it follows a request procedure and standards as per
which test will be conducted and Cost of testing as per lot size. They have collaborated and approved
some laboratories which are authorized to do testing of any garment as per ANN Taylor standard for
ANN Taylor suppliers.
They have approved Twenty Laboratories in 13 countries including china, Hong-kong, India,
Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Korea, Philippines, Sri-lanka, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, USA for different
product testing like yarn, Garment etc.

Ann Taylor Request Form

In order to process requests as quickly as possible, it is imperative that all testing be submitted on an
Ann Taylor Test Request Form. This standard form should include details like which kind of garment is
being tested, fibre content, Quality/ Style no., Colour code as per AT shade book, AT division, AT
department, Contact details of person requesting testing, Proposed care instruction, what service or
tests are requested.

While writing about Testing sample Ann Taylor specifies follow:

 Sample is development or for Production.

 Select type of package, if dyed extra Colour fastness test.
 If Retest, last test copy should be attached with Form.
 If any special request, do specify
 Test for trims and accessories
 Production Category
 Billing information
 Lastly, contact person who is aware of full case.

Note- In case of any missing information, person from testing lab will coordinate with contact person,
and wait for 2 days to get full information, accordingly the dates will be shifted further.

Ann Taylor Testing Service Options:

The network of testing laboratories makes every effort to evaluate products in the shortest possible
time. There are different pricing packages as per time required for testing. Please refer page no. 34
for the same.

Apart from all regular services, following services required more service time:

1. Swimwear: colour fastness to light (40 hours) – require 5 days

2. Products containing feather/down – require 7 days
3. Leather Products – require 7 days
4. Fibre blends requiring microscopic analysis – require 5 days.
5. Trim testing that involves nickel release test---require 10 days
6. Labels: durability to 50 launderings and 5 dry cleanings – require 5 days.
7. Washable Merino Wool – 10 Washes requires 4 days 8) Easy Care in 5x, 10x, 25x washes requires 8
days minimum

PRODUCT PERFORMANCE
In order to effectively analyze and monitor the physical characteristics of trims, yarns, textiles, and
garments, following standards and test protocols were developed, which can be used against any
federal, state, national or international requirements:

1. American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)

2. American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM)
3. British Standards (BS)
4. Code of Federal Regulations (CFR)
5. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)
6. Fair Packaging and Labelling Act (FPLA)
7. Federal Trade Commission (FTC)
8. Food and Drug Administration (FDA)

These specifications/standards keep updated periodically to reflect changes in technology and data
available or as new fibres/ fabrications are developed. All suppliers are advised to follow above given
standards, in case of any deviation, the supplier is required to notify Ann Taylor in writing prior to the
placement of an order for that product. Test like colour fastness, water resistant, Fibre content,
flammability, penetration resistance are being done, also about presence of Nickle and lead in the
material is checked. Please refer page no. 47-49 for specifics related to test and standard equipment
used to do the same.

INFANT/ TODDLER/ CHILDREN REQUIREMENTS AND TESTING

Ann Taylor pays special attention to the kids wear as the Safety of children are their priority.

The tests and requirements cited were developed by the following government offices and industry
associations:

1. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)

2. Federal Trade Commission (FTC)
3. American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM)
4. American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
5. The International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
6. German Institute for Standardization (DIN)

All fabric for kids wear must meet the normal flammability standards with the added requirement
and Flame Retardant finishes may not be applied to any garment without written approval from NY
Production. Ann Taylor does not intend to produce any garments for sleepwear; however, it is the
responsibility of New York design and Production to assure that none of the garments could be
“classified as sleepwear”.

Lead and Formaldehyde content is kept at maximum of 0.06% and 20ppm respectively. Metal
accessories must be “Nickel-free” but with an exception: Small metal items (i.e. snaps, small buttons,
etc.) with a low amount of nickel may pass through the needle detector without an alarm.

“Nickel free” requirement:Transfer to the skin measurement of <0.5 micrograms per square
centimeter per week ,All fabrics, trims and accessories must be free of the AZO dyes. Ann Taylor uses
best dyestuffs and undergoes extra rinsing, cotton fabrics are dyed with reactive or vat dyes. Indigo
dyes are permitted while Sulfur or direct dyes are not accepted.

Any part used for kids wear is rounded and no pins are allowed in packaging because toddlers may
unknowingly put any part in mouth leading to choking, aspiration and ingestion hazards.

Test required for Zippers recommend to use -Non separating zipper only. Lower standards are
acceptable if zipper bottom is secured by appropriate sewing in garment.

(Please refer to pages 110-131 for detailed testing protocol for trim, fabric, garment production).
 CONCLUSION

This assignment equipped us with the required knowledge of quality measurements especially for
USA which are respected all around the globe. It can be derived that Ann Taylor being a renowned
brand is doing justice to its recognition. The quality Parameters are above the satisfactory level and
grade they required are very precise and high quality. Zero Tolerance policy is used for Single Fiber
while for blends it ranges around 2 to 3%
Use of Chemicals like Lead, Nickel, Formaldehyde which may be hazardous for human are kept at
bare minimum level paying utmost preference to health and security of customers and are done
under the supervision of Japanese standards Association.

Ann Taylor keeps and maintains all quality reports and is least reluctant to pay for these tests.
Though in case of fabric, supplier is responsible for testing all fabrics according to the Ann Taylor
requirements prior to shipment from the mill and for the costs of such tests.

The tests are done by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory. All required fabric
information is given to the laboratory. For garments produced at vertically integrated manufacturing
plants, the factory is required to submit both the textiles and garments independently for evaluation
in accordance with both the full basic textile and garment testing packages. The testing requirement
applies to all parts of the garment, including trim. Ann Taylor for all the above quality standards have
rightly penetrated as a premier fashion brand and made its big name.

We extend our gratitude for this opportunity to your good self for this priviledge to learn these
standards in such an aggregate manner.

REFERENCES
https://www.aatcc.org/testing/methods/

https://www.astm.org/Standard/standards-and-publications.html

https://www.bsigroup.com/en-IN/

https://www.intouch-quality.com/blog/5-color-fastness-tests-to-prevent-textile-fading-and-staining

https://knowledgebase.datacolor.com/admin/attachments/the_gray_scale_for_color_change_and_g
ray_scales_for_staining_.pdf