Wave Transmission at Submerged Breakwater PDF
Wave Transmission at Submerged Breakwater PDF
Wave Transmission at Submerged Breakwater PDF
Abstract
Physical model studies were performed at the Queen's University Coastal Engineering
Research Laboratory (QUCERL) in Kingston, Canada to assess the performance of
submerged rubblemound breakwaters under a wide range of design conditions in two-
dimensional (2-D) and three-dimensional (3-D) settings. The tests include a number of
wide crested structures to provide data where previous investigations have not. The
results show that the relative submergence, incident wave height and structure crest width
are the most important design variables.
1
Department of Civil Engineering, Queen's University, Kingston, Ont.,K7L 3N6
2
Professor, Department of Civil Engineering, Queen's University, Kingston, Ont. K7L 3N6
2000
COASTAL ENGINEERING 1998 2001
1.0 Introduction
Numerous physical and numerical investigations have been performed for various
submerged structure configurations and materials. In general, the physical processes at
submerged rubblemound breakwaters can be defined for three regions in the vicinity of the
structure as indicated in Figure 1. Relevant nomenclature is also indicated.
In Region 1, the incident wave shoals on the rising face of the breakwater, considerable
non-linear wave transformations take place as bound waves are developed (Beji and
Battjes, 1993) and some wave breaking is initiated. A portion of the incident energy is
also reflected from the front breakwater face. Wave breaking continues into Region 2
where significant non-linear interactions occur between the various wave phases.
Harmonic generation occurs as energy is transferred from the fundamental wave frequency
to higher harmonic frequencies (Driscoll, Dalrymple and Grilli, 1993). Some wave energy
is also dissipated on the breakwater crest through friction and air entrainment as well as
within the breakwater structure. In Region 3, the free and bound transmitted waves
dissociate as they travel into the deeper water. This generally results in a broadening
energy spectra as the various wave components travel with their own celerity.
Numerical modeling efforts have met with some success in representing the transformation
of weakly non-linear incident waves (Ohyama and Nadaoka, 1993; Driscoll, Dalrymple
and Grilli, 1993; Beji and Battjes, 1994; Losada, Silva and Losada, 1996). Although all
models are reported to reflect some of the physical modeling data well, none of the
approaches can fully model the breaking and non-linear decomposition process on a
theoretical basis. Therefore, given the uncertainties associated with the present state-of-
the-art in numerical modeling, it may be most appropriate for the design engineer to
consider more general design equations based on physical modeling results.
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Relatively few design equations have been developed to date for submerged rubblemound
breakwaters. Those available have been developed by Seelig (1980) for surface piercing
and submerged permeable breakwaters, by Ahrens (1987) for reef-type breakwaters and
by Van der Meer (1991) for low crested and submerged rubblemound structures. Seelig's
equation was developed with very little submerged breakwater data and Ahren's equation
is not directly applicable to conventional submerged rubblemound breakwaters given the
reshaping nature of reef breakwaters. Van der Meer's equation was developed from a
considerable volume of test data from a number of authors but some variables were not
varied to a large degree; a limited variation in crest width was perhaps the most important
shortcoming of this research. As a result, none of the existing equations are sufficient for
application over a wide range of design conditions.
The objectives of the research presented in this paper are therefore as follows:
1. To test a sufficiently wide range of submerged breakwater geometries, ensuring a
broad range of crest widths, under a relatively large range of incident wave
conditions in a 2-D setting to assess the validity of the existing design equations.
2. To extend and modify the existing design equations as necessary to provide some
physical basis for the dimensionless parameters utilized.
3. To perform 3-D testing for a number of conditions similar to those tested in the
2-D apparatus to assess the validity of the proposed equations for application in
more realistic 3-D environments.
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The majority of the physical tests were 2-D in nature and were performed in a 1 meter
wave flume at QUCERL. These test results provided the data for development of the
proposed design equations. Subsequent 3-D testing was carried out in the wave basin at
QUCERL using a smaller set of test variables. The results of these tests were used in the
evaluation of alternative design equations.
2-D Testing
The testing setup for the 2-D tests is shown in Figure 2. The wave flume is 47.0 m long,
1.2 m deep and 1.0 m wide and is equipped with a flapper type wave generator. A
plywood beach was constructed in the flume, upon which the test breakwaters were
constructed. The beach permits testing of the submerged breakwaters in relatively large
incident waves. The submerged breakwater cross section consisted of a core of relatively
course core material (D50c = 0.017 m) and two layers of primary armour (DSOa = 0.059 m).
A second armour size (D50a = 0.037 m) was used in some tests. The armour size was
determined such that the breakwater remained stable during testing. The stone size
required for the most severe testing condition was determined using the stability equation
of Vidal et al. (1993). The stone size recommended for the "total slope" section was used
for the entire breakwater.
Incident and transmitted waves were measured by two wave probe arrays, located in front
and rear of the breakwater respectively. The probes were capacitive type water level
gauges, sampling the water surface at 20 Hz. Reflection from the rear wall of the wave
flume was minimized using a 1:10 beach of rubberized hair in front of a porous matrix of
concrete blocks.
In total, approximately 800 tests were performed with irregular waves. A number of tests
were also performed with regular waves in order to confirm the presence of physical
phenomenon observed by previous authors. The testing program involved 13 submerged
breakwater geometries tested under 5 different water levels with a number of incident
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wave characteristics.
All irregular wave spectra tested were Jonswap with a = 0.0081 and y = 3.3. The signals
were generated using the National Research Council of Canada's (NRC), GEDAP wave
generation and analysis package. Given the physical characteristics of the flume and the
mechanical response of the paddle to the input signal, the generated wave spectral
characteristics may vary from the target characteristics by 5% to 10%. A summary of the
irregular wave characteristics tested is provided in Table 1.
Hmo (m) * 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.20 0.20
Tp(s)* 1.2 1.5 2.0 1.2 1.5 2.0 1.2 1.5 2.0 1.5 2.0
* Note: Wave characteristics are target values - those measured in flume may vary to some degree.
3-D Testing
KEY
AP5 Wa.**6txteWaS
Wcws
Prctes
©VI StomegedSreocwote,
KB
Velocity
PKfcel
Series! 00)
AP8
!.0m
.~Cona0f& teach
••'^m*— 2.5m—'
The submerged breakwaters used in the 3-D tests were constructed using a relatively fine
core material (D50c = 0.004 m) and the smallest armour tested in the flume (Z)5a,=0.037 m).
The wave signals were generated from Jonswap spectra. Because the breakwater for the
3-D tests was not constructed on an elevated platform, it was not possible to generate
waves as large as those used in the 2-D tests. A summary of the irregular wave
characteristics used in the 3-D tests is provided in Table 4.
Hmo (m)* 0.032 0.032 0.032 0.032 0.063 0.063 0.063 0.063 0.095 0.095 0.095
Tp(s)* 0.95 1.19 1.59 1.98 0.95 1.19 1.59 1.98 0.95 1.19 1.59
* Note: Wave characteristics are approximate - those measured in basin may vary to some degree.
Water level probes were placed throughout the area behind the submerged breakwater,
and one probe was located near the paddle to provide an indication of the incident wave
height. Two velocity probes were also moved throughout the area behind the submerged
breakwater to provide a qualitative indication of the general velocity patterns. The
locations of the various probes are shown in Figure 3 above.
Sampling for each test was performed at 20 Hz over a period of 100 waves. Full
reflection analysis was undertaken for the 2-D data to separate the incident and reflected
spectra. The reflection analysis was performed using a least squares analysis of 3 probes
of the 5 probe array (Mansard and Funke, 1987). The incident wave characteristics at
probe arrays 1 and 2 were used to define the transmission coefficient K, such that:
where H, and //, are the incident Hm0 values at probe arrays 2 and 1 respectively.
The significant wave height (//,) at individual probes was used to define the transmission
coefficient for the 3-D tests. The incident wave was defined by Probe 5 and the
transmission coefficient was computed at various locations behind the submerged
breakwater. Although the use of Hs instead ofHm0/ to define K, is not consistent with the
analysis of the 2-D data, it reduces the effect of energy that has leaked into the testing area
or been reflected into the lee of the breakwater, on the characteristic wave height estimate.
The transmission coefficient values were analyzed with respect to the various incident
wave and structure characteristics. This analysis involved a simple graphical trend analysis
of the data, followed by a comprehensive statistical analysis of alternative design equations
relating K, to the most important design variables. The trend analysis was conducted with
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where p, g and fi are density, gravitational acceleration and dynamic fluid viscosity
respectively and the other variables are defined in Figure 1. A dimensionless form of this
expression can be developed using p, g and Ht as basic or repeating variables such that:
H, PH,jrg D L ds B K
K. = — = <p ( !—L- 5 n , , 6 , .-*-)
' H, ' ~H, H, '' ~H, H
3.0 Results
The observations made during testing were generally consistent with observations noted
from previous investigations. The incident wave spectra were broadened with a shift of
energy to higher frequencies as the waves passed the breakwater and there was evidence
of harmonic generation and subsequent dispersion as individual waves passed over the
structure. The most obvious process affecting K, was wave breaking. Inspection of the
general trends defined by the 2-D test data indicate that K, is most sensitive to the depth c
submergence d„ the incident wave height H, and the crest width B. To a lesser degree, K
is influenced by the period of the incident wave (Tp), the breakwater armour dimensions
{D50a) and the breakwater slopes (6).
Typical trends observed during the 2-D tests are summarized in Figures 4 through 8. It i
evident that the transmission increases with increased ds, increased H, and increased B. I
is also shown that a small increase in K, is observed with increasing Tp, increasing D50a an
steeper slopes (increasing Tan ff).
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1
0.9 0.9 • \
0.4
4""^ "'
i Ks-O.fSm 0.4
Tp~1Jt
Figure 4 Figure 5
Effect ofd, and H, on K, Effect ofd. and T on K,
0.9 0.9
0.5 0.8
0.7 0.7
j ;'p 1.21 ; 'Tp-l.lt
0.6 O.f
*0.5 i >i; r *0.5
0.4 .". .:>. :! " 1.5 s
0.4 c~~..- *
; • r/>-i.s<
0.3 :
• i irp- 2.0 s 0.3 i j rp-2.0*
0.2 . t -.:• 0.2
0.( 0.) :
0.5 ( (.5 02 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.5 0.7
>M Tan ffteta (B=0.6 m)
Figure 6 Figure 7
Effect of B and T on K, Effect of 6 and T„ on K,
Tp -1.2 •
S£0.5
Tp-f.St
0.4
0.3 Tp~2.0s
L~y---.r.yt
Figure 8
Effect ofD„, and T„ on K,
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Three dimensional test data showed similar trends in general but the scatter in the data
was much more evident. The transmission coefficients were generally higher in the 3-D
tests: this is attributed to a number of factors including diffraction of wave energy into the
lee of the breakwater and reflection of wave energy from the testing apparatus. The results
show that the relative submergence is the most influential factor under low submergence
conditions while crest width is important under higher submergence conditions.
The effects of submergence depth, incident wave height and crest width are shown in
Figure 9. This figure is based on the transmission coefficient immediately behind the mid-
point of the breakwater with incident waves perpendicular to the structure.
». -
B - 0.19 m
'
3 - 0.38 m
•
3 • 0.95 m
0 12 3 4 5
ds/Hs
The predicted values of the transmission coefficient for the 2-D test variables were
generated using van der Meer's Equation for submerged and low crested breakwaters and
Ahren's Equation for reef breakwaters, and are shown in Figures 10 and 11.
Test Data vs. Ahrens' Equation Test Data vs. van der Meer's Equation
l i
B-Uffl
o S » 0.3 m
JHr« — B*0.6m
'JIiys_? ssia t* B = 0.6 m
W^X
5 1
A
B«1.Sm
z
/i *.-° r B"1.Sm
„ rrrf * B * 2.5 m
i ir-
„* V ri' " a-2.5 m
ir ^H B - 3.5 m
Measured Kt
Measured Kt Mess. • Obs.
Figure 10 : Predicted J^ - Ahrens' Eqn. Figure 11: Predicted K, -Van der Meer's Eqn.
COASTAL ENGINEERING 1998 2009
The results show that these equations are not suitable to represent transmission for
structures tested in this study, particularly when the crest width is large. The inability of
the existing design equations to predict suitable transmission coefficients for the tested
conditions indicates that there is a need for an improved design equation.
Previous investigations have indicated that d/Hm0, is the most important dimensionless
variable affecting transmission. This observation was supported by these tests. Numerous
dimensionless variables considered, including variables discussed in previous authors
works. Only those found to be significant in defining the transmission process are
discussed here.
1 1 *11 ft
1 . 4 i!"
fr-A --
<H %
- i
X ~JuLkM
^ySr
. r i
—itSJt—
lr"T~^
Is P
.. ...... _
0 12 3 4
ds/HI
Typically, overtopping rates are a function of the wave steepness and structure
geometry. A dimensionless form of the structure crest width and the local wave
height (Hm0/B) was found to be representative of the overtopping effect.
iii. As the wave passes over the breakwater, some energy is lost to frictional
dissipation on the surface of the structure. The dimensionless variable
representing this process was loosely based on the empirical Darcy-Weisbach
expression for head loss. This requires the assumption that the flow velocity can
be represented by the velocity of a gravity wave and results in the dimensionless
variable dfl^/BD^.
iv. Flow within the breakwater structure will also result in some energy loss as a wave
travels over a submerged breakwater. Given the relatively high porosity of the
armour layer, the effect of the wavelength on the fluid velocity, the effect of
submergence depth on the portion of flow within the armour layer and the effect of
the crest width on the overall drag losses, the dimensionless variable selected to
represent drag losses was Bd/LD50a.
On the basis of these dimensionless variables, statistical fitting was used to develop a
suitable design equation. A number of alternative equations were considered in an effort
to develop a design equation which provided:
• a good statistical fit (R2),
• a normal distribution of residuals,
• predictions which are well bounded (ie. 0.0<K,< 1.0),
• physically relevant variables with a minimum number of fitted parameters
Through trial and error, a finalized form of the design equation was developed such that
these criteria were generally satisfied for the 2-D test data.
-0.65(^)-1.09(-J.) B d d H
1 - (e "' * 0.047(—i-) - 0.067(-i_4) (4)
L D,. B V,n
The proposed equation fits the 2-D test data well, resulting in an R2 value of 0.914. Given
the uncertainty associated with the fitting of statistical parameters, all of the parameters of
the proposed design equation were adjusted to their upper or lower 95% confidence
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interval values such the change in predicted K, value was maximized. The results, as
shown in Figure 13 show that the prediction is not very sensitive to these changes and as a
result, the prediction is relatively robust in its relation to the physical variables affecting
the transmission phenomenon.
Proposed Kt Equation
Sensitivity to Parameters (95 % C.I.)
m
H- tf^
i?T.:
"' • t\ "A
Est. Param.
•1
0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8
Observed Kt
Although the proposed equation does not fit the 3-D data as well, the prediction is still
relatively good at low to moderate transmission coefficients (Figure 14).
Proposed Equation
Est.- Obs.
5.0 Conclusions
Based on an extensive set of 2-D and 3-D tests of wave transmission at submerged
breakwaters, a number of conclusions can be drawn.
i. The transmission coefficient at submerged breakwaters is most sensitive to the
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The proposed equation represents the comprehensive set of test data well
(R2=0.914) and is robust in its relation to the physical variables which significantly
affect the transmission process.
The equation is well bounded over the range of test data, which is considered to be
representative of typical design conditions. The equation does, however, become
unbounded when B becomes very large or very small due to the size of the 3rd and
4th terms. Therefore, it is recommended that caution be used when applying the
equation outside of the following variable ranges.
References:
Beji, S. and Battjes, J.A. "Experimental Investigation of Wave Propagation Over a Bar",
Coastal Engineering, 19:1-2, 1993, pp. 151-162.
Beji, S. and Battjes, J.A. "Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Propagation Over a
Bar", Coastal Engineering, 23:1-2, 1994, pp. 1-16.
Driscoll, A.M., Dalrymple, R.A. and Grilli, S.T. "Harmonic Generation and Transmission
Past a Submerged Rectangular Obstacle", 23rd International Conference in Coastal
Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, New York, Vol. 1, 1993, pp. 1142-
1160.
Losada, I.J., Silva, R. and Losada, M.A. "3-D Non-Breaking Regular Wave Interaction
with Submerged Breakwaters", Coastal Engineering, 28, 1996, pp. 229-248.
Mansard,E.P.D. and Funke, E.R. "On the Reflection Analysis of Irregular Waves",
Technical Report No. TR-HY-017, National Research Council of Canada, Ottawa, 1987.
Van der Meer, J.W. "Stability and Transmission at Low-Crested Structures", Delft
Hydraulics Publication 453, 1991.
Vidal, C, Losanda, M.A., Medina, R., Mansard, E.P.D. and Gomez-Pina, G. "Universal
Analysis for the Stability of Both Low Crested and Submerged Breakwaters", 23rd
International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers ,
New York, Vol. 2, 1993, pp. 1679-1692.