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BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS

Quick Guide
Written by Tobie Schalkwyk

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 1

 Exposure? So what? It’s a combination of
aperture, shutter speed, and ISO; right?
“What can be added that was not said or
documented before?” I hear you thinking.
Well, true. The exposure triangle is the
core of exposure. But the meat around
that core is hardly ever discussed.

In this guide I’m making the assumption

that you know all about the exposure
triangle, so that’s not what we’re going
to discuss. We’re going to look at other
factors influencing exposure, and what to
pay attention to and what to ignore.

Then we’re going to have a quick look at

the importance of the angles at which you
shoot your birds and the viewpoints or
perspectives from which you do so.

Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 2

 EXPOSURE

Picture this: you see this beautiful bird in flight. At home you rush to your laptop and can’t wait for
Perfect! It flies straight to you – even better! You’ve the photo import to finish. Then, disaster! You’re
never photographed this species before so you looking at a set of perfect silhouettes! You cannot
battle to control your excitement as you feverishly control the disappointment and disbelief as you try
set the exposure perfectly. Shutter speed: check. to salvage what you can by adjusting the Shadows
Aperture: check. ISO: check. and Darks sliders of your post-processing package!
But, not even the fact that you’ve shot your images in
The exposure ruler in your viewfinder confirms the RAW is enough to help you out.
fact that you’re spot on! As you keep your finger on
the shutter release button in continuous shooting So, what went wrong? It could be one of a few
mode, you can already imagine the ‘oohs and ‘aaahs’ things, but the most common culprit is metering.
of your social media friends and you picture the ‘Like’ Your camera advised you to set your exposure based
count shooting up to record highs! on the total scene. The problem is that most of the
scene comprised of bright sky and/or white clouds,
so your darker bird carried minimal priority as your
camera made its exposure recommendations to you.
What, then, is the solution?

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 3

 METERING

In non-bird genres of photography the exposure is usually

set to equal levels all over the scene. In bird photography
your main concern is your subject; the environment
around it is of lesser concern. How do you achieve this?

Spot metering. This metering mode would advise you to

set your exposure based on a single (the selected focus)
point. This might mean that you sometimes will have
under or overexposed surroundings, but so what? The
main importance is that your bird’s exposure is spot on.

Spot metering ignores the surroundings and ensures that

this lilac-breasted roller is well exposed in spite of the fact
that the background is overexposed. It contributed to an
artistic/high-key-type shot which is never to be scoffed at.

Key Lesson: Spot metering is the ‘go to’ option

for bird photography in most situations as a bird’s
size is so small compared to its environment that
the other metering options may produce under or
overexposed subjects.

Recommended Reading: If you’d like to learn

how to use your flash unit for better photography,
grab a copy of Photzy’s premium guide: Electronic
Flash – Parts and Practices.
Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

Nikon D7100 + Nikkor 300mm f4 + TC E14 II (35mm equivalent

of 630mm) f/7.1 | 1/800s | 200 ISO | Beanbag

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 4

 AUTO ISO PRE-EMPTING EXPOSURE

Stay away from Auto ISO unless you really have a Is it possible to pre-empt exposure so that you have
purpose for it! Bird photography is one genre where minimum adjustments to do on the bird you’re most
you do not want the camera to guess what you’re up likely going to encounter next? Yes, and it might be a
to! I have tried this on a few occasions and 90% of life saver!
the time I was really disappointed with the results!
·· If you’re not sure what bird you’re going to
The only case where you might want to try it is where encounter next, look around and find a spot or
your bird is moving around between shaded and object that is not too bright but also not too
sunlit areas in a tree. But even then you should not dark. An ‘average lit’ greyish tree trunk is a gift
have high expectations from the results. in this case. Use it for setting your exposure. Be
ready to quickly run up or down with your ISO
settings based on whether your next bird is very
dark or pure white.

·· If you expect your next bird to be either white

or black, do exactly the same as above but with
a bright/dark object close by.

Note: After pre-empting your settings, a bird

in flight may play games with your camera’s
‘mind’ as the single metering point moves
around between the bright sky and your subject.
Fight the urge to adjust settings unnecessarily at
this stage. Your pre-empted settings should at
least position you somewhere usable during
post-processing as it’s within your camera’s
dynamic range (see Dynamic Range lower down).

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 5

 The exposure in this shot was pre-
empted by using the shaded areas in the
background as I knew there was a good
chance that a local pair of Verreaux’s
eagles would show up. The shot would
not have been possible without pre-
emption as the bird was in view for only a
second or two.

Key Lesson: Some shots would

be almost impossible without pre-
emption. Remember to re-adjust
your pre-empted settings as the
light changes from time to time due
to cloud formations passing by or
other factors.

Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

Nikon D600 + Tamron 150-600 G2 @ 200mm f/6.3 | 1/640s | 400 ISO | Handheld

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 6

 BRACKETING

Bracketing allows you to shoot two or three (or even This is a handy feature in the event where:
more in some cameras) shots and your camera will
automatically adjust exposure between them. In most ·· you need to pre-empt your next shot’s exposure
cases it allows you to select the number of bracketed but you’re not sure about the bright/dark tones
shots and then the adjustment amount (in f-stops) offered by the next bird to be photographed;
between each of them. ·· when you shoot white or black birds and you’re
For example, you may set the number of bracketed scared of over/underexposing them (one of the
shots to ‘3’ and the exposure gap between them bracketed shots should be reasonably spot on);
is 0.3 f-stops. Or perhaps a full f-stop. You may or
also have a choice to select the bracketing order ·· when shooting a black and white bird and you
(for example, the underexposed image first, then want to make sure that one of your shots will
the image at the selected exposure, and then the cater best for both tonal ranges.
overexposed image).
Practice setting and using bracketing. It’s a very
handy tool in your skills toolbox and it may just serve
you well on one or more occasions.

Recommended Reading: If you’d like to

learn how to use your flash unit for better
photography, grab a copy of Photzy’s premium
guide: Electronic Flash – Parts and Practices.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 7

 A FEW THOUGHTS ON EXPOSURE

Keep the following tips in mind regarding exposure: You’ll never have a better diffuser of sunlight!

·· White birds always tend to be overexposed, especially ·· On sunny days your best shots come from early mornings
in bright sunlight. You may want to underexpose them a (before 10am) and late afternoons (after 4pm) because of
touch (by 0.3 – 1 f-stops). It’s easy to raise the highlights/ softer sunlight. I love to arrive at my planned venue for a
shadows/exposure a little on white birds in post-processing shoot at about 6am. It’s sometimes too dark then to take
without blowing your whites, but it’s impossible to recover useful shots, but what’s wrong with enjoying the sounds
blown whites. and looks of nature as you settle in and wait for the light to
increase? Perhaps with a flask of hot coffee for company? It
·· Underexposed black birds tend to generate noise if you has the added advantage of not moving around in suitable
raise shadows/exposure in post-processing. Rather, over- light and scaring away your potential subjects!
expose them slightly during the shoot and lower the
shadows/exposure slightly in post-processing. This usually ·· Remember that the adjustment of your focal length might
has the added benefit of reducing possible noise that was close your aperture slightly if you have it wide open,
generated during the shoot. resulting in underexposure. For example, if you’ve selected
f/5 for a lens with an ‘f5-6.3’ specification, the setting will
·· If in doubt, just try and have your exposure more or less automatically change to f/6.3 as you zoom in fully on your
on target. As long as you’re reasonably close to the center subject. You’ll have to adjust your shutter speed or ISO in
of your camera’s dynamic range, you should be able to order to keep the same exposure level.
recover brights or darks successfully in post-processing.
Being on the ‘wrong’ side of a bird is not the end of the world,
·· Bird photography leans itself more toward shooting in the especially with a relatively static bird. Expose for the shaded
sun than any other genre, but it’s still not your best friend in section and use rim light and/or wind to create an artistic effect.
some instances. If you get a day where the sky is covered
by a thin layer of clouds, grab your gear for a bird shoot!

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 8

 Key Lesson: Some bright/dark
colored birds may be over/
underexposed regardless of the
fact that all of your settings are spot
on. Rather, underexpose white
birds slightly and overexpose black
birds slightly. Then make
adjustments in post-processing.

The amount of deliberate under/

overexposure is not cast in stone and
would depend on the presence of
clouds, the time of day, and other factors.
Experiment until your gut feeling is close
to spot on for your needed settings in
each situation.

Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

Nikon D7100 + Nikkor 300mm f4 + TC E14 II (35mm equivalent

of 630mm) f/7.1 | 1/2000s | 320 ISO | Beanbag

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 9

 ANGLES AND VIEWPOINTS HAVE THE SUN BEHIND YOUR BACK

So what does ‘angles and viewpoints’ have to do with If you’re lucky enough to settle down in a bird hide
exposure? Well, not much directly, but quite a lot or perhaps at a point overlooking the relatively static
indirectly. In most instances there’s not a lot you can position of your subject (for example, a bird’s nest or
do to influence it, but you can influence your images a regularly visited flower), try your best to have the
by waiting for the right moment to release your sun behind you. Shooting a bird from its shadowed
camera’s shutter. side usually leads to a lot of frustration during post-
processing and (frankly) is usually not worth the effort,
especially with dark birds.

Of course, there’s always the exception to the rule!

Rim light can create beautiful images, especially on
very light birds and at a moment when their feathers
are lifted by a breeze.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 10

 This backlit spoonbill’s feathers created
an interesting subject with the help of a
breeze.

Key Lesson: Having the sun

behind your back is nice to have, but
if that is not possible, you can still
get interesting shots with the help of
rim lighting and wind movement.

Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

Nikon D600 + Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 + TC 14E II (@ 35mm

equivalent of 630mm) f/6.3 | 1/1000s | 400 ISO | Handheld

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 11

 DON’T UNDERESTIMATE THE
HELP OF ARTIFICIAL LIGHT

If you do not have control over the

shaded part of your subject, why not
use artificial light? A remote speedlite
or two closer to your subject (wirelessly
triggered) can create wonders!

I have found that, in general, birds are not

scared of flash lights. They might ‘flick’
their wings for a split second as the flash
is triggered, but other than that they will
not pay it much attention. Place it about
6’ from your bird and control its strength
from your wireless controller.

Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

Nikon D600 + Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 200mm f/5.6 | 1/1250s | 1000 ISO | Tripod

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 12

 If possible, make adjustments before your birds arrive Key Lesson: Sometimes dark shadows
(whilst checking the replays on your LCD screen), might spoil your image. Lots can still be
because once it pays you a visit you do not want to achieved with the help of artificial lighting
pay much attention to exposure issues but rather (even a simple reflector) or by changing your
focus on your subject. position in respect of your subject.
The white-breasted sugarbird on the previous page
was snapped in the garden. I’ve lit it up from the Recommended Reading: If you’d like to
left and front using a 600w studio strobe at the learn how to use your flash unit for better
lowest setting. The sun was coming from the right photography, grab a copy of Photzy’s premium
so without the strobe, the bird would have had dark guide: Electronic Flash – Parts and Practices.
shades on the left, rendering the image useless.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 13

 DON’T FORGET YOUR
BACKGROUND

One fantastic trait of long range lenses

is the rendering of beautiful soft
backgrounds. The secret is to position
yourself as close as possible to the bird
with a background as far away as possible
if it’s not an open sky.

Sometimes there might be a tree or other

object right behind the birds that would
create a very busy background even if it’s
blurred. A few steps to the left or right
might eliminate it and offer you a clean
sky or other object far away.

This fiscal shrike had trees behind it to

form a busy background, but just by
taking a few steps to the right I was able
to exchange it for a faraway hillside.

Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

Nikon D600 + Tamron 150-600 G2 @ 600mm f/7.1 | 1/1000s | 800 ISO | Handheld

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 14

 ANGLES

Some birds’ colors reflect much better from certain A bit of light from a different angle and this apparent
angles, not only of the bird relative to you but also dull-colored hadeda ibis (image on the next page)
relative to the direction of the sunlight. Always be on was transformed into a canvas of beautiful colors.
the lookout for the bird’s movements that reflect its
colors best, and snap away! Key Lesson: Don’t fall into the trap of only
producing stereotyped shots. Interesting
In terms of height, birds on a perch high above are
variations can be achieved by waiting for the
usually the least attractive. If possible at all, try to
moment when your bird’s colors are displayed
get a vantage point at least at the same vertical level
in different ways.
as the bird. Birds in flight from below usually reveal
beautiful feather detail, though.

A bird shot from vantage points higher than itself

sometimes expose beautiful colors, especially the
wing colors from flying birds. It sometimes creates
the illusion that you are in the air together with the
bird.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 15

 Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

Nikon D600 + Tamron 150-600 G2 @ 600mm

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 16

 WIND DIRECTION

As shown with the spoonbill image on

page 11, a breeze can add a beautiful
dimension to your bird image, especially
with white birds like cattle egrets and
other birds with long feathers. Be ready
for moments when the wind lifts or ruffles
their feathers, and snap away!

Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 17

 CONCLUSION

Exposure is, without doubt, the most important Always keep an eye on your ISO. That should be the
aspect of bird photography. A perfectly sharp or dial you’re looking for first as the light strengthens
well-composed image is useless if you cannot make and you can afford to bring down the exposure a
out the details of your subject (unless you aim for bit, and the last one in order to increase exposure.
a silhouette)! Practice it; play with it until you can Once it’s on or below 200, you might look at shutter
adjust it in a second without looking away from your speed and/or aperture adjustments to decrease your
viewfinder. exposure level.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: EXPOSURE, ANGLES, AND VIEWPOINTS // © PHOTZY.COM 18

 ABOUT THE AUTHOR Congratulations! You’ve completed
this Photzy guide!

If you’ve found this photography tutorial

helpful, check out Photzy’s premium guide on
how to produce beautiful images with your
flash: Electronic Flash – Parts and Practices.

Tobie Schalkwyk is a retired Web Systems Developer hoping

to soon make an income from photography alone. He has a
IF YOU’D LIKE TO CONTINUE
passion for all genres of nature photography, especially bird LEARNING AND IMPROVING
photography, but he also gets involved in other genres of YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY PLEASE
photography like weddings, events, and in-studio portraits.
VISIT PHOTZY.COM
Websites: ctsphotography.co.za/nature

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