Photzy

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED

Quick Guide
Written by Tobie Schalkwyk

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 1

 Have you ever been awe struck by those super quality as sharp, quality images are concerned. But how? In
bird shots in a magazine or on social media? I clearly this guide, I’m going to tell you how I believe you
remember ‘that’ stage of my bird photography venture can end up producing the same quality images as
a few years ago when the capture of magazine-quality some of the best out there – or at least something
images was not even a dream. It was something that quite close to it!
belonged to a world far removed from my own. Very
far. I neither had the know-how nor the budget or the In this guide I’m going to help you achieve sharp,
self-belief to make it happen! in-focus bird shots by focusing (pun intended) on two
of the most important traits of a good-quality image.
I was simply amazed by the amount of detail and These traits sound similar, and they are. They’re not
sharpness of the images portrayed in the top identical, though, so let me explain what I mean by
bird photography magazines and I just knew that them for the purpose of this guide.
producing similar quality photos with the modest
bridge camera in my hand was not even a remote 1. FOCUS
possibility. Yes, I could zoom in using its 20x optical
By ‘in focus’ I mean that the image is not blurred. An
zoom feature, but the result was never really going to
in-focus image can usually be sharpened successfully
be something to brag about!
in post-processing. An out of focus (blurred) image
A few years later I joined online bird photography cannot be rescued by sharpening tools in post-
forums (birdphotographers.net being the best I’ve processing and is thus destined for the bin.
seen so far). I was struck with awe yet again when
observing stacks of magazine-quality images being 2. SHARPNESS
produced daily, by ‘ordinary’ people like us! Even
For the purpose of this guide, a ‘sharp’ image is an
better: I was able to chat to them and it slowly
image that is in focus but in addition to that, the
dawned on me that ‘Hey, if they can do it then just
detail about the bird is clear and sharp. For example,
maybe so can I!’
you can see the surrounding environment reflected in
Long story short: I’m quite confident that you can your bird’s eye and/or you can see the finest feather
also compete with some of the best out there as far detail of your subject.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 2

 HOW DO THEY DO IT?

So what are the tricks applied by the masters of bird Recommended Reading: If you’d like to
photography to obtain sharp, in-focus images? Well, improve your composition skills for better nature
let me start by getting something off my chest first. photography images, grab a copy of Photzy’s
best-selling premium guide, Understanding
Have you heard the saying that it’s not the camera Composition.
that makes an image, it’s the photographer? Yeah,
right! Look, I’m not saying all of that is a lie, but I do
believe that it’s a white lie. If everything depended
on the photographer, then why do the best of the
best out there invest in equipment so expensive that
we middle class guys can only dream of owning the
same? Take a few seconds to think about that...

Now let’s have a look at how to go about producing

sharp, in-focus images.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 3

 DECENT KIT

Fact of life: you may be able to take decent shots of If you are after sharp, in-focus images, then invest in
a caged bird with your mobile phone, but if you want one of the lenses mentioned above. It’s worth every
to snap a bird in flight then you’re going to need a penny! You might get away now and again with a kit
DSLR camera and a decent lens. lens like the outdated Tamron 70-300mm, but you’ll
only be able to opt for ‘easy’ shots (for example, static
Yes, I know – us middle class mortal beings can only birds in good lighting conditions). There will be many
dream of owning an f/2.8 prime lens with a focal times, however, where you will kick yourself for not
length of 300mm or more. If you can afford one of investing in something more decent. It’s only a matter
these, fantastic! Don’t even think about it – buy it! of time before you upgrade. Take my word for it!
Also, get a 1.4 teleconverter (‘extender’ for Canon) to
enhance its reach, but keep in mind that you do lose
Key Lesson: Bird photography requires
at least one f-stop of light in the process (in simple
more than ‘average’ capabilities from your kit.
terms that means your f/2.8 lens turns into an f/4 or
It has to cater for small subjects at far off
even slower when using a 1.7x or 2x teleconverter).
distances, sometimes moving erratically and/or
Fortunately Canon and Nikon thought of us when fast. It therefore makes sense to invest in at
recently producing very decent zoom lenses in the least one quality lens – zoom or primary.
100-400mm and 200-500mm ranges. Tamron and
Sigma have also taken huge steps ‘for mankind’ Zoom lenses are more flexible in bringing your
with their recent releases of the Tamron 150-600 G2 subject closer and are cheaper than ‘pro’ (f/2.8)
and Sigma 150-600 Sports lenses. The Sigma 150- primary lenses. The latest generation of zoom lenses
600 Contemporary lens is nothing to scoff at, but offer awesome features and image quality, so if you
personally I’d rather add the extra few bucks and buy cannot afford one of the ‘pro’ lenses, they are a good
the Sports version. Rather be safe than sorry! alternative.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 4

 The Tamron SP 150-600mm F5-6.3 Di VC
USD G2 is currently (May 2018) Tamron’s
latest-generation long range zoom lens.

It competes with the following lenses in

terms of price and quality:

·· Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II

USM

·· Nikon AF-S 200-500mm f/5.6E ED

VR

·· Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG OS

HSM Contemporary

·· Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG OS

HSM Sports

Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 5

 USE FOCUS SETTINGS TO ENSURE IN-FOCUS SHOTS

SET YOUR AUTO FOCUS MODE TO AF-C USE BACK BUTTON FOCUS

All DSLRs have AF-S (‘Single Area’ for Nikon or ‘One Shot’ In the standard focusing mode your camera focuses for the last
for Canon) and AF-C (‘Continuous’ for Nikon or ‘AI Servo’ for time just before you press your shutter release button to beyond
Canon) auto focus modes. Some have one or more hybrid the halfway mark. With back button focus, it keeps on re-focusing
versions of this, such as AF-A (Nikon) or ‘AI Focus’ (Canon) AF regardless of what is happening with the shutter release button.
modes.
At first, back button focusing feels a bit strange (and you might
Since we know that we are working with moving subjects, my even ‘forget’ to hold it down the first few times), but once you’re
recommendation is to select AF-C auto focus mode. That will used to it you will never go back to standard focusing mode.
ensure that your camera keeps on re-focusing as your subject Check your guide or use Google to find out exactly how to set
moves around, as long as you keep the shutter pressed down back button focusing on your particular camera.
half-way (or while you’re pressing the back button if you are
using the back button focusing technique). You may want to TELL YOUR CAMERA TO ONLY RELEASE THE SHUTTER IF A
switch back to AF-S only in the event of bad lighting conditions SUBJECT IS IN FOCUS
to prevent the focus mechanism from consistently hunting for
Do you know that most DSLRs have a setting to tell it to only
high contrast points.
release the shutter on the condition that your subject is in focus?
Note: In most cameras, the switching between AF If it is not in focus, then it would simply refuse to take the shot,
modes is not as straight forward as for other settings. Make implicitly letting you know that you have to try again. Your
sure that you know where and how to change yours if default setting might already reflect this, but it’s worthwhile to
needed. On my Nikon D600, one has to push down a check it to ensure it does. How do you do this?
round button inside the AF/M focus switch. You then check
·· Nikon: Select Custom Settings / Auto focus / AF-S priority
the current AF mode selection on the back-LCD screen
selection / Focus; Now do the same for AF-C priority
after pushing the info button, or on the top LCD screen
selection.
whilst rotating the main settings dial.
·· Other camera brands will be very similar to this.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 6

 IF NEEDED: USE MANUAL FOCUS

Mmmmm. Manual focus. A swearword in some The image on the next page would not have been
photographers’ dictionaries, a scary term for some, possible without using manual focus, as the camera
a life saver for others! There are certain instances would keep on focusing on one of the branches in
where you’ll not be able to take a shot at all without the foreground.
focusing manually. I’d like to urge you to make sure
you know how to do this without the need to remove Key Lesson: Sometimes auto focus will not
your view from the viewfinder. You’ll thank me later! be suitable for certain shots, such as when your
subject is partially hidden behind branches or
Most lenses nowadays allow you to focus manually
leaves, or when it’s too dark for the camera to
by rotating the focus ring on the lens, even with your
focus all by itself. Manual focus is the only way
kit set up to auto focus. Keep in mind that if you’re
of landing these shots, and if you can do so
not on back button focus, you’ll have to first select
without first fiddling with switches and settings,
Manual focus on your camera or lens (either one),
then good for you!
otherwise your manual focus adjustment will be
overridden when you press down your shutter release
button. Make sure you know where to disable auto
focus when needed.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 7

 Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

Nikon D600 + Tamron 150-600mm G2 @ 600mm | f/8 | 1/125s | 320 ISO | beanbag in car window

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 8

 STAY AWAY FROM YOUR LENS’ LIMITS

This may or may not be a factor depending on what era your good-quality shot (image stabilization, camera stability support,
lens comes from and what quality lens you’re using. In general, etc.). Most of the time, if an image is reasonably sharp, it can be
your pro lenses (f/2.8 or wider aperture prime lenses) are less sharpened a bit more (within limits) in post-processing. Having
problematic as far as this topic is concerned, but not so for the said all of the above, both the brand and ‘generic’ names have
vast majority of kit lenses (mostly entry level zoom lenses). recently made huge strides in getting good-quality shots at
the ends of their latest zoom lenses’ apertures and focal length
Every lens has a ‘sweet spot range’ as far as aperture and focal ranges. I have taken numerous super-sharp shots with the
length is concerned. If you’re not using a pro lens, you can Tamron 150-600mm G2 at f/6.3 and 600mm and I have seen the
generally assume that you’re not going to get your sharpest same from Sigma’s 150-600mm Sports lens, Nikon’s 200-500mm,
shots at its wider aperture. In general, your sweet spot is going and Canon’s 100-400mm Mk II lens.
to lay between f/7.1 and f/8.
Whatever lens you’re using, Google its reviews and take note of
Similarly, your non-pro zoom lenses are generally not at its its limitations (if any) so that you can stay clear of them as far as
sharpest when fully zoomed in. Try to stay away from the last 20- possible.
25% of its range. For example if you’re using a 70-300mm zoom,
try to avoid anything beyond 220-250mm focal length.
Key Lesson: Unless you have one of the latest-
If you HAVE to shoot close to these limits for some reason, try to generation zoom lenses (or one of the ‘pro’ prime lenses),
avoid shooting close to both simultaneously. In other words, if you may lose image quality when using it at its widest
you HAVE to shoot at your widest aperture, try to stay away from aperture/longest focal range or both of these together.
your longest focal range and vice versa. Know your lens’ limitations and stay clear of those for the
sake of super-sharp in-focus images.
Obviously sanity must prevail; I’d rather have a 90% or even
60% quality shot than nothing at all! So if you have to ‘cross
these lines’ then do so, and do everything else possible to get a

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 9

 APPLY THE RECIPROCAL RULE OF PHOTOGRAPHY

This is particularly true for hand-held shots. The Panning in the event of a bird in flight also makes
rule is as follows: your current shutter speed should the reciprocal rule obsolete, because relative to the
be at least as fast as the reciprocal of your current ground a bird might be traveling at 60km/h, but
focal length. In other words, if you’re shooting hand relative to your camera’s panning movement it’s only
holding your camera at 400mm, then your shutter traveling at 1 or 2 km/h (unless it’s moving erratically
speed should be 1/400 or faster. like swallows etc.). Your shutter speed in this case is
more based on how much you’d like to freeze the
In general, this should not be a problem for bird bird’s moving feathers. Quite high shutter speeds
photography as the nature of your subjects is such may be necessary to freeze it 100%.
that you’d mostly prefer to use shutter speeds of
1/640 or faster. Having said that, if you mount your I tend to ignore the number of f-stops offered by
150-600mm lens on a crop sensor camera, your image stabilization for the sake of simplicity. As far
implied focal range goes up to 900mm. If you do not as bird photography is concerned, decreasing your
keep this in mind when applying your reciprocal rule shutter speed by 4.5 f-stops is guaranteed to give
(and use a tripod regardless), then you’re going to be you blurred images because of the movement of
hugely disappointed with the results! your subject if not for any other reason.

Just to make things more interesting, the use of

optical stabilization turns the reciprocal apple car
right on its head. Theoretically, it allows you to slow
down your shutter speed by as many f-stops as your
particular lens’ specifications specify. For example,
Nikon’s 200-500mm is offering 4.5 f-stops of vibration
reduction.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 10

 Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

Nikon D600 + Tamron 150-600 G2 @ 600mm | f/6.3 | 1/640s | 160 ISO | Beanbag

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 11

 USE IMAGE STABILIZATION
SENSIBLY

Image stabilization is a great tool for

preventing camera shake or slow bird
movements, so use it for static birds.

Disable it for flying birds, though (and

when using a tripod or bean bag), as it
might slow down (or interfere with) your
focus speed, preventing you from getting
a super-sharp shot or sometimes any shot
at all.

Image stabilization is perfect for static or

semi-static birds such as those looking for
nectar.

Note: Some lenses have

Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk different image stabilization options
to choose from. For example, one
option might stabilize the scene in
the viewfinder, whereas another only
stabilizes it in the camera. Be aware
of the options offered by your lens
and select the one that works best
for you.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 12

 CONSIDER AND KNOW YOUR
LENS’ CURRENTLY SELECTED
TOTAL FOCAL LENGTH RANGE

Most lenses have a switch to limit your lens’

focal range in order to speed up the time
it needs to find and focus on your subject.
My Nikkor 70-200mm offers me 2.5m -
infinite (∞) as well as ‘Full.’ My Tamron
150-600mm offers me three settings: 2.2m
- 10m, 10m - ∞ and ‘Full.’

Take note of the options on your lens and

use them sensibly. Keep in mind that the
‘Full’ range might cost you a nice shot
because it took too long to go through the
full focal range in order to find your bird
and focus on it in time, especially with birds
in flight.

Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk Similarly, you might miss a shot of a bird

which suddenly perches 3m from you
because your lens’ current setting prevents
it from focusing so nearby. KNOW where
the switch is on your lens and practice
finding and adjusting it without looking
away from your viewfinder. Yet again, you
will thank me later!

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 13

 FOCUS ON YOUR
SUBJECT IN TIME

This is quite important in the event of

bird-in-flight photography. Unless a
perched bird is taking a rest (for example,
an owl in daytime), it is only a matter of
time before it flies off.

Focus on it and then be patient and wait.

If it takes a poop, then go on high alert!

Your lens will focus much easier on a bird

in flight if it was already focusing on it
before it took off, simply because it did
not have to search for it first.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 14

 GET CLOSE

I sincerely believe that most long range lenses are I never waive the opportunity to shoot a close-up of
bought for the totally wrong reasons by amateur a bird using a long focal length, no matter how ‘dull’
photographers. It is not to zoom in on faraway the bird is. Nothing can give me greater pleasure
subjects. Yes, that’s the cherry on the cake, but there than seeing and studying the detail of my subject
are a few other great benefits offered by it. afterwards.

Firstly, if you get close to a subject at a long- The wagtail (image on the next page) appeared 3m
range focal length it will give you a great blurred from me while snapping birds from a bird hide. It was
background. This will add perceived focus and still satisfying just to see the feather detail, in spite of
sharpness to your subject as it is clearly separated it actually being a ‘dull looking’ bird.
from its surroundings.
Recommended Reading: If you’d like to
Secondly, if you’re taking a close shot, it is going to improve your composition skills for better nature
give you fantastic detail of your subject. The perfect photography images, grab a copy of Photzy’s
shot is one where your subject fills your frame to best-selling premium guide, Understanding
such a degree that you do not have to crop it later Composition.
in post-processing to bring it closer or to recompose
it. If you can do that whilst applying all of the
recommendations mentioned above, you’re going to
be pleasantly surprised by the results!

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 15

 Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

Nikon D600 + Tamron 150-600mm G2 @ 600mm | f/6.3 | 1/640s | 800 ISO | beanbag

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 16

 WHAT SHUTTER SPEED SHOULD I USE?

How long is a piece of string? I have seen a are close to zero! So, know your subject and use
tendency on social media lately whereby any bird common sense – what a fantastic combo to ensure a
shot taken at shutter speeds slower than 1/2000 is lot of great shots!
negatively criticized just for the sake of criticism. I can
understand to a limited degree where these critics In general, my shutter speed is on 1/640–1/800 when
are coming from. Basically they’re trying to eliminate shooting birds. I might go to 1/1250 or higher when
every chance of getting a blurred shot, and if you shooting fast-moving birds in flight (swallows etc.).
have not done the same then you were ‘wrong’ in I think I can count on my one hand my shots taken
spite of taking a beautiful, sharp shot. faster than 1/2000.

Reality strikes, however, when you have a camera Key Lesson: There are many theories
that’s not that good at handling high ISOs and/or a about the minimum shutter speed for bird
lens that cannot go as wide as f/2.8. Then something photography out there. Some of them are true;
has to give, right? Right! some of them are insane!
The secret is to know your subjects. Some birds have
Common sense is a virtue in this case. It makes no
very erratic head/tail/wing movements even when
sense photographing a sleeping owl at 1/2000 ‘just
perched in one spot. In that case you’d sacrifice
because they say so.’ Similarly, if you try to capture
ISOs in order to prevent blur, or simply take a lot of
fast-flying swallows or bee eaters at 1/400, you’re
shots hoping that a couple of them would catch it
going to be disappointed. Try it if you want to, just
in between some of those erratic movements. Heck,
to prove a point to yourself, but then return back to
we’re living in the digital age where we can later bin
what works – and always remember the reciprocal
as many shots as we want!
rule of photography.
I have taken super sharp owl shots at 1/8 simply
because I know that the chances of it moving once
it has found a place to settle down for the day

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 17

 Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

Nikon D600 + Tamron 150-600 G2 @ 600mm | f/6.3 | 1/640s | 400 ISO | Handheld

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 18

 SHARPEN YOUR IMAGE IN POST-PROCESSING (IF NEEDED)

Sometimes you know that your image is well in focus LIGHTROOM EXPORT
but it just needs that extra little ‘oomph’ to make it
look really sharp. One of the reasons might be that I usually have the Export popup’s Output Sharpening
you were forced to use your lens at its focal length checkbox selected (Screen/High). Sometimes images
and/or aperture limits. I’ve found that I needed to from my Tamron 150-600mm G2 lens appear ‘too
sharpen most of my images just a touch in the days sharp,’ in which case I’d deselect this checkbox and
when I used a Nikkor 300mm f/4 lens mounted on a if needed also bring the Sharpening amount in the
1.4x teleconverter. I usually do the following: Lightroom editor back to zero.

LIGHTROOM EDITOR PHOTOSHOP

As a rule, my default Sharpening Amount in Sharpening in Adobe Photoshop (PS) is way superior
Lightroom sits at +/- the 33 point mark. If needed, to Lightroom’s sharpening. This is actually a topic
I might push it up to 40, and if I’m still not satisfied on its own as PS has a whole selection of different
I call in the big guns by right-clicking and then sharpening techniques, each suited to specific
selecting the ‘Edit in Adobe Photoshop’ option. scenarios and end results.

I’ve found that Lightroom is not great in extensive I have tried various techniques and eventually settled
sharpening, causing pixelation if you ask too much of down on its unsharp masking option (Filter/Sharpen/
it. The result is pixelation, especially when displaying Unsharp Mask) with Amount on 25%, Radius on 1
the image on social media. pixel and Threshold on 1 level. I may repeat the
unsharp masking process once or twice if needed.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 19

 Key Lesson: Sometimes, but not always,
an image can do with a bit of sharpening in
post-processing. Various sharpening methods
are available, depending on your post-
processing tools and personal preferences.

Make sure you know where and when to use these

methods, and when to STOP! This is usually where
beginner photographers go overboard and go way
beyond what looks natural in their images, implicitly
spoiling what were otherwise great shots.

Be on the lookout for pixelation (small light dots and

Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk lines) and noise appearing in your image and if so,
back up the sharpening process by one or two cycles
until the pixelation disappears (select Edit/Step
Backward in PS).

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 20

 KNOW YOUR GEAR

A few of the cameras which have entered the market The Canon 5D IV has ‘expansion points’ to assist the
recently have mind-boggling features to ensure in- center focus point in keeping a subject (such as a
focus shots. If you have some of these latest cameras, bird in flight) in focus. If you’re fortunate enough to
study their guides and use Google to make the most own this beast of a camera, do your homework to
of these. One can write a whole guide on this topic know how and when to use this.
alone, so I’m just going to touch the surface.
Key Lesson: There are numerous camera
Example: Nikon D500 has an ‘Auto AF Fine Tune’
tools and features available to assist you in
feature whereby the camera automatically adjusts
obtaining perfect focus, depending on the
AF Fine Tune settings for the attached lens after
brand and how recently it came onto the
achieving focus in live view. This is a nice way of fine-
market. Make sure you know which to apply to
tuning your camera/lens combo all by yourself!
your particular camera by studying guides and
The D500 also has ‘Group Area AF Mode’ whereby reviews, by using Google, and by building up
it uses multiple focus points simultaneously, but only relationships (online and personal) with
focuses on the closest object from amongst those photographers using the same camera. You’ve
picked up by them all. This will not work where your paid the bucks, now use your camera optimally
subject is surrounded by other objects closer to you to justify your investment!
than itself because it will then focus on one of these
‘other’ objects. It will work excellently in all other Recommended Reading: If you’d like to
cases, though, for example for birds in flight against improve your composition skills for better nature
a clear sky or across a dam where you do not have photography images, grab a copy of Photzy’s
other objects in the frame closer to you than your best-selling premium guide, Understanding
subject. Composition.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 21

 CONCLUSION

Sharp in-focus bird images are a result of

good gear, well-selected camera settings,
and common sense. They do not just
‘happen by chance.’ Well, not as a rule.
Make sure you know which of these are
applicable to your specific kit and how to
use them optimally.

If you feel that you have to invest in a

higher-than-kit-priced lens, do so. No
money can buy the satisfaction of looking
at an image and thinking to yourself,
“Really? Have I produced this?” Most
of all, enjoy this fantastic hobby and
share your great images with the world
out there. There are a lot of guys out
there wishing to do what you do but
they cannot, due to financial or other
limitations. Viva bird photography!

Photograph by Tobie Schalkwyk

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 22

 Self-Check Quiz:

1) Can you sharpen an out-of-focus picture in post- 7) What does it mean to “Stay Away From Your
production? Lens Limits”?

2) Name two-third party lens manufacturers who 8) Describe the Reciprocal Rule.
make fabulous lenses for bird photography.
9) What would you use a beanbag for?
3) What type of lens brings more flexibility to bird
photography? 10) What is the general range of shutter speeds
when photographing birds?
4) What auto focus mode should you use?
11) What is the term that describes the small light
5) Name the alternative focusing button that is dots and lines that occur if you over-sharpen
very helpful for bird photography. your image?

6) True or False: Never use manual lens focusing

for bird photography.

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY: STAYING SHARP AND FOCUSED // © PHOTZY.COM 23

 ABOUT THE AUTHOR Congratulations! You’ve completed
this Photzy guide!

If you liked this bird photography tutorial,

check out this premium composition
guide to help you better compose
images: Understanding Composition.

Tobie Schalkwyk is a retired Web Systems Developer hoping

to soon make an income from photography alone. He has a
IF YOU’D LIKE TO CONTINUE
passion for all genres of nature photography, especially bird LEARNING AND IMPROVING
photography, but he also gets involved in other genres of YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY PLEASE
photography like weddings, events, and in-studio portraits.
VISIT PHOTZY.COM
Websites: ctsphotography.co.za/nature

24