E-380

08-06

Shoulder Length
Pattern
Alteration

B efore attempting these alterations, review Exten-

sion publications E-372, Principles of Pattern Altera-
tion, and E-373, Personal Measurement Chart, for ba-
sic instructions. Refer to E-381, Shoulder Slope, to determine
if the pattern should be adjusted for shoulder slope rather
than shoulder length. To determine how much you need
to alter, refer to line 8 on the Personal Measurement Chart.
Make this alteration on front and back pattern pieces.

Basic Bodice
Wide or broad shoulders will cause the armhole seam-
line at the shoulder to pull inward. They will also cause the
cap of set-in sleeves to pull and ride up. Sleeves will appear
too short and not hang properly (Fig.1).
Narrow shoulders will cause the armhole seamline to
extend over the top of the shoulder. Sleeves will appear too
Extension Family Development long and will not hang properly (Fig. 2).
and Resource Management Specialists

Figure 1.

Figure 2.
2..................................................................................................................................................................................

)
cm
5.1 Spread Follow these steps to make your alterations:
2˝ (
1. Measure in 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the armhole seam-
line along the shoulder seamline. Mark this point and
Bodice Bodice draw a diagonal line from there to the notch at the
front front armhole seamline.
2. Slash the line to, but not through, the armhole seamline.
Clip the armhole seam allowance at the notch to the
seamline (Fig. 3).
Lap
To lengthen:
Figure 3. Figure 4. Place tissue paper under the pattern and spread the
armhole section by the amount you need. The clipped seam
Bodice
front
allowance will lap (Fig. 4).
To shorten:
Move the armhole section inward, lapping the amount
you need. The clipped seam allowance will spread (Fig. 5).
To complete either alteration:
Figure 5. 1. Tape the pattern in place.
Cut away 2. Redraw the shoulder cutting and seamlines by con-
necting the points where the cutting lines cross and
the seamlines cross (Fig. 6).

Bodice
front
Bodice
front Kimono Style Garments
Wide or broad shoulders will cause the sleeve to bind.
To accommodate the width you need, the sleeve might ride
inward. This causes extra vertical folds of fabric at the shoul-
der. The curve of the shoulder seam is too short for the shape
Figure 6. of the body. Consequently, the sleeve might appear too short
and hang poorly (Fig. 7).
Narrow shoulders will cause bagginess in the upper
sleeve. The curve of the shoulder seam is too long for the
shape of the body, so the sleeve might appear too long and
hang poorly (Fig. 8). Follow these steps:
1. Draw a diagonal line from the mark at the shoulder
seamline that indicates the end of the shoulder to the
highest part of the underarm seamline. If the end of
the shoulder is not marked on the pattern, find this
Figure 8. point by measuring from the base of the neck along
Figure 7. the shoulder seamline. Pin the dart closed.
Spread 2. Slash this line beginning at the shoulder cutting line
to, but not through, the underarm seamline. Clip the
underarm seam allowance at that point (Fig. 9).
Bodice Bodice
back back To lengthen:
Place tissue paper under the pattern and spread the sleeve
section by the amount you need. The clipped seam allowance
will lap (Fig.10).

Figure 9. Figure 10.

................................................................................................................................................................................ 3

To shorten: Cut away

Lap
Move the sleeve section in, lapping the amount you need.
The clipped seam allowance will spread (Fig.11).
Bodice
Bodice
To complete either alteration: back
back
1. Tape the pattern in place.
2. Redraw the shoulder cutting and seamlines to form
smooth lines to the original shape. Use a middle point
between the break in the shoulder cutting and seam-
Figure 11.
lines as a guide to redraw the lines. You might need Cut away
to make a slight adjustment in sewing the seamline
(Fig.12).
Bodice

Raglan Style Garments

back

Fitting problems with broad or narrow shoulders will

look similar to kimono style garments. Follow these steps:
Figure 12.
1. On the sleeve pattern, measure 3 inches (7.6 cm) from
the base of the neck at the seamline along the shoul- 3˝ (7.6 cm) from neck
2˝ (5.1 cm) from shoulder
der seam. You measure in 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the
end of the shoulder if the shoulder point is marked on 3˝

the pattern (Fig. 13a). For patterns with a top shoulder

dart, mark a point midway along the length of the 2˝
dart. Draw a horizontal line across the pattern at this Sleeve
Sleeve
point (Fig. 13b).
2. Match notches to align the sleeve and bodice seam-
lines. Mark the point on the bodice seamline where Figure 13a. Figure 13b.
the horizontal line on the sleeve crosses.
3. From this point, draw a vertical line on the bodice
that is parallel to the lengthwise grainline and is the
length of the armhole. Connect this vertical line to the
underarm seamline with a horizontal line, clipping Bodice
the underarm seam allowance at that point (Fig.14). back

To lengthen:
1. Cut the sleeve apart along the horizontal line. Figure 14.
2. Place tissue paper under the sleeve and spread the
pattern by the amount you need. Keep the cut edges
Spread
parallel (Fig.15). Spread

Sleeve
Sleeve

Figure 15.
4..................................................................................................................................................................................

3. Place tissue paper under the bodice. Move the arm-

hole section out at the seamline by the amount you
Spread need. The clipped underarm seam allowance will lap
(Fig. 16).
Bodice To shorten:
back
1. Fold the sleeve along the horizontal line, forming a
tuck to decrease the amount you need (Fig.17).
2. On the bodice, move the underarm section in, lapping
the amount you need at the seamline. The clipped
underarm seam allowance will spread (Fig.18).
Figure 16. To complete either alteration:
Redraw the cutting and seamlines on the sleeve and bod-
ice sections (Fig. 19).

Lap
Lap
Lap

Bodice
Sleeve Sleeve back

Figure 17.

Figure 18.

Cut away

Cut away Cut away Cut away

Bodice
back Sleeve
Sleeve
Sleeve

Cut away

Cut away Cut away

Bodice
Figure 19. back

Sleeve

Becky Saunders wrote the original manuscript for this publication.