I

TECHNICAL REPORT CERC-89-19

GENESIS: GENERALIZED MODEL

FOR SIMULATING SHORELINE CHANGE

Report 2
WORKBOOK AND SYSTEM USER’S MANUAL

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DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY

by
Mark B. Gravens, Nicholas C. Kraus

Coastal Engineering Research Center

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,_ Waterways Experiment Station, Corps of Engineers
3909 Halls Ferry Road, Vicksburg, Mississippi 39180-6199

and

Hans Hanson

Department of Water Resources Engineering

Lund Institute of Technology
University of Lund
Box 118, Lund, Sweden S-221 00
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September 1991
Report 2 of a Series
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Approved For Public Releese; Distribution Is Unlimited

prepared for DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY

US Army Corps of Engineers
Washington, DC 20314-1000

Under Shoreline and Beach Topography Response Modeling

Work Unit 32592
 Form Approved
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1.AGENCY USE ONLY (Leave Mank) 2. REPORT DATE 3. REPORT TYPE AND DATES COVERED
September 1991 Report 2 of a Series
4. TITLE AND SUBTITLE 5. FUNDING NUMBERS
GENESIS: Generalized Model for Simulating Shoreline
Change: Report 2, Workbook and System User’s Manual Work Unit 32592

6. AUTHOR(S)
Mark B. Gravens
Nicholas C. Kraus
Hans Hanson
7.PERFORMINGORGANIZATION NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) 8. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION
REPORT NUMBER

See reverse.
Technical Report
CERC-89-19

l.SPONSORING/MONITORINGAGENCY NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) lo.sponsoring /MONITORING

US Army Corps of Engineers AGENCY REPORT NUMBER

Washington, DC 20314-1000

1.SUPPLENTENTARyFuoTr3s
Available from National Technical Information Service, 5285 Port Royal Road,
Springfield, VA 22161

12a.ENSTRIBUTION/AVAILABILITY STATEMENT 12b. DISTRIBUTION CODE

Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited

3.ABSTRACT (Maximum 200 words)

● This report, the second in a series, documents 13 system support computer

programs developed to automate many of the tasks associated with conducting a
design level numerical shoreline evolution investigation using the GENESIS model,
Report 1, “Techriical Reference,” is dedicated to a technical description of the
GENESIS model and a pedagogic case study. Report 2, “Workbook and System User’s
Manual,” provides recommended procedures, techniques, and guidelines for preparing
the required input data sets and for the overall conduct of a shoreline evolution
investigation including model calibration, verification, and sensitivity testing.

The system support computer programs documented herein are first technically
described, and then multiple example applications of each program are given.
Source code listings of many of the system support programs (more than 4,500 lines
of FORTRAN CODE) are provided as appendices to the main text. The techniques and
procedures recommended in the main text stem from approximately 5 years of GENESIS
prototype applications both within the United States and abroad.
a.SUBJECT TERMS 15. NUMBEROF PAGES
Longshore sand transport Shoreline change model
431
Numerical model Shore protection 16.PRICE CODE
Shoreline change Wave transformation
7. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION 18. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION 19. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION 20. LIMITATION OFABSTRACT
OF REPORT OF THIS PAGE OF ABSTRACT

UNCLASSIFIED UNCLASSIFIED
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>tandard Form 298 (Rev 2-89)
prescribedby ANSI 5td Z3’j. !8
298.102
7. (Cc:.cinued)

USAE Waterways Experiment Station

Coastal Engineering Research Center
3909 Hzlls Ferry Road
Vicksbc~;, MS 39180-6199

Lund Inszitute of Technology

Univers<zy of Lund
BOX 118, Lund, sweden S-221 00

I
 PREFACE

The s~udy described herein was authorized as a part of ~ne Civil Works
Research and Development Program by Headquarters, US Army Cor~s of Engineers
(HQusACE). Kork was performed under the Shoreline snd Beach Topography
Response Modeling Work Unit 32592, which is part of ~he Shore ?rotection and
Restoration Program at the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC), US Army
Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES). The HQUSACE Technical Monitors
were Messrs. John H. Lockhart, Jr.; John G. Housley; James E. Crews; and
Robert E. Campbell.
This report was written by Mr. Mark B. Gravens, Hydraulfc Engineer,
Coastal Processes Branch (CPB), Research Division (RD), CERC; Dr. Nicholas C.
Kraus, Senior Scientist, CERC; and Dr. Hans Hanson, Associate Professor,
Department of Water Resources Engineering, Lund Institute of Technology,
I
University of Lund, Sweden. Ms. Carolyn J. Dickson, CPB, assisted in format-
~ ting and organizing the report. Mr. Dorwin T. Shields, Jr. , Contract Student,
CPB, assisted in developing many of the computer programs discussed herein.
This study was conducted under the administrative supervision of Dr. James R.
Houston, Chief, CERC; Mr. Charles C. Calhoun, Jr., Assistant Chief, CERC;
Mr. H. Lee Butler, Chief, RD, CERC; and Mr. Bruce A. Ebersole, Chief, CPB,
CERC . Dr. Charles L. Vincent was Program Manager, Shore Protection and
Restoration Program, and Mr. Gravens was Principal Investigator, Shoreline and
Beach Topography Change Work Unit 32592. This report was edited by Ms. Lee T.
Byrne, Information Technology Laboratory, WES.
COL Larry B. Fulton, EN, was Commander and Director of WES during report
preparation. Dr. Robert W. Whalin was Technical Director.
 CONTENTS

EXE

PREFACE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

LISTOFTABLES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

LISTOFFIGURES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

CONVERSION FACTORS, NON-SI TO S1 (METRIC) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT 10

PART I: INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Purpose of This Report . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

GENESIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Capabilities and Limitations of GENESIS . . . . 13
GENESIS Technical Reference . . . . . . . . . . 14
GENESIS Interface and File Structure . . . . . . 15
ScopeofReport. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

PART II: REVIEWOFGENESIS. . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Basic Assumptions of Shoreline Change Modeling . 20

Governing Equation for Shoreline Change . . . . 22
Sand Transport Rates. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Empirical Parameters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Wave Calculation . . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . 29
Internal Wave Transformation Model . . . . . . . 30
External Wave Transformation Model: RCPWAVE . . 38
Limiting Deepwater Wave Steepness . . . . . . . 40
Wave Energy Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Numerical Solution Scheme . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Grid System and Finite Difference Solution Scheme 45
Lateral Boundary Conditions and Constraints . 45
Beach Fill , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Longshore Transport Rate: Practical Considerations 50
Simulation in a Grid Subsection . . . . . . . . , 55

PART III: POTENTIAL TRANSPORT RATE ANALYSIS . . . . . . 57

Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
RCRIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
SEDTRAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81

PART IV: SHORELINE POSITION ANALYSIS . . . . . . . . 100

Baselines, Shorelines, and Bathymetries . . . . . 101

SHORLROT . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . 103
CUINTP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
WTSHO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Example Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Summary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126

2
 CONTENTS (Continued)

PART V: OFFSHORE WAVE ANALYSIS.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127

Sources of Offshore Wave Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127

WAVETRAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
WTWAVTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
WTWAVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Analysis ofOffshoreWave Data . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176

PART VI: NEARSHORE WAVE ANALYSIS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181

External Wave Transformation Model (RCPWAVE) . . . . . . . . . . . 182

WHEREWAV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
WTNSWAV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
WTDEPTH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
NSTRAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
Analysis of Nearshore Wave Data . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257

PART VII: INPUT FILES - STRUCTURE AND ERRORS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261

Input andoutputfiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261

Preparationof the START file . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
Simple Configurations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
Time-Varying Structure Configurations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
Error Messages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
Warning Messages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
Example Configurations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304

PART VIII: INTERPRETATION AND PRESENTATION OF GENESIS RESULTS . . . . . 306

Evaluation of Calibration and Verification Simulations . . . . . . 306

Variability in Coastal Processes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309
Sensitivity Testing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
Calibration and Verification Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
Simple Groin Configuration Example . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
Detached Breakwater Example . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
Interpretation of Results . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340

REFERENCES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342

APPENDIX A: SUMMARY OF GENESIS SYSTEM SUPPORT COMPUTER PROGRAMS . . . Al

APPENDIX B: SYSTEM SUPPORT PROGRAM RCIRT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B1

APPENDIX C: SYSTEM SUPPORT PROGRAM SEDTRAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cl

APPENDIX D: SYSTEM SUPPORT PROGRAM SHORLROT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D1

APPENDIX E: SYSTEM SUPPORT PROGRAM CUINTP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . El

APPENDIX F: SYSTEM SUPPORT PROGRAM WTSHO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F1

3
 CONTENTS (Concluded)

APPENDIX G: SYSTEM SUPPORT PROGRAM WTWAVTS . . . . . . . . . G1

APPENDIX H: SYSTEM SUPPORT PROGRAM WTWAVES . HI

APPENDIX I: SYSTEM SUPPORT PROGRAM WHEREWAV . . . . . . . . . . 11

APPENDIX J: SYSTEM SUPPORT PROGRAM WTNSWAV . . . . . . . . J1

\
APPENDIX K: SYSTEM SUPPORT PROGRAM WT.DEPTH . . . . . . . . . . . . Kl I
APPENDIX L: SYSTEM SUPPORT PROGMM NSTRAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . L1

APPENDIX M: NOTATION AND PROGRAM VARIABLES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ml

Mathematical Notation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ml
Program Variable Names . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . M3

APPENDIX N: INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N1
 LIST OF TABLES

~ l=!.!3E
1 Major Capabilities and Limitations of GENESIS Version 2 . . . 14
2 Sheltering Angle Specification (Keys) . . . . . 143
3 RCPWAVE I~put-Data Set, FILES Record: REQ . . . . . . 188
4 RCPWAVE Input Data Set, GENSPECS Record: REQ . . . . . 188
5 RCPWAVE Input Data Set, WAVCOND Record: REQ . . . . . . . . . 188
6 RCPWAVE Input Data Set, WAVMOD Record: OPT . . . . . . . . . 189
7 RCPWAVE Input Data Set, GRIDSPEC Record: REQ . . . . . . . . . 189
8 RCPWAVE Input Data Set, BATHSPEC Record: REQ . . . . . . . 190
9 RCPWAVE Input Data Set, CHNGBATH Record: OPT . . . . . . . . . 191
10 RCPWAVE Input Data Set, CONVERG Record: OPT . . . . . . . . 191
11 RCPWAVE Input Data Set, PRWINDOW Record: REQ . . . . . . . . . . 192
12 RCPWAVE Input Data Set, SAVESPEC Record: OPT . . . . . . . . 192
13 Period Band Designation WithinWHEREWAV . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
14 Nearshore Wave Transformation Simulations for WHEREWAV Example 1 . 207
15 Nearshore Wave Transformation Simulations for WHEREWAV Example 2 . 209
16 Nearshore Wave Transformation Simulations for WHEREWAV Example 3 . 211
17 Nearshore Wave Transformation Simulations for WHEREWAV Example 5 . 219
18 Nearshore Wave Transformation Simulations for WHEREWAV Example 5
(Refined) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
19 Nearshore Wave Transformation Simulations for the Time Series
NSTST.CTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
20 Control of Selected Parameters on Calculated Shoreline Position . . 333

LIST OF FIGURES

Q -
1 Input and output file structure of GENESIS . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
2 Definition sketch for shoreline change calculation . . . . . . . 21
3 Operation of wave transformation models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
4 Definition of breaking wave angles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
5 Shoreline change as a function of transmission . . . . . . . 36
6 Example of representative contour . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
7 GENESIS, RCPWAVE, and the overall calculation flow . . . . . . . . 39
8 Diffraction coefficient for two sources . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
9 Finite difference staggered grid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
10 Determination ofRcrit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
11 Threshold for longshore sand transport (RCRIT) . . . . . . . . . . . 59
12 Time series of wave conditions from SEAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
13 Schematic representation of the shoreline orientation . . . . . . 62
14 Example 1: Output fileREPORT.RC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
15 Example 1: Output file SEASOUT.CTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
16 Time series of wave conditions from CEDRS . . . . . . . . . 67
17 Example 2: Output fileREPORT.RC . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
18 Example 2: Output file CEDRSOUT.CTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
19 Time series of wave conditions from a wave gage . . . . . . . . . . 72
20 Lines where RCRIT.FOR must be modified to read wave gage
time series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
21 New lines of code for Area 1, RCRIT.FOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
22 New lines of code for Area 2, RCRIT.FOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75

5
 LIST OF FIGURES (Continued)

Ea)3E
New lines of code for Area 3, RCRIT.FOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
24 New lines of code for Area 5, RCRIT.FOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
25 Example 3: Output fileREPORT.RC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
26 Example 3: Output file GAGEOUT.CTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
27 Flagged wave events with a shoreline orientation of 140 deg . . . . 81
28 Flagged wave events with a shoreline orientation of 130 deg . . . . 81
29 Potential longshore sand transport (SEDTRAN) . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
30 SEDTRAN example 1: Output file S28-54.PT . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
31 SEDTRAN example 1: Output file SEAS28.PTR . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
32 Output file SEAS28.PTR after two SEDTRAN runs . . . . . . . . . . . 87
33 SEDTRAN Example 2: Output file C59-348.PT . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
34 SEDTRAN Example 2: Output file CEDRS59.PTR . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
35 Lines where SEDTRAN.FOR must be modified to read wave gage
time series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
36 New lines of code for Area 1, SEDTRAN.FOR . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
37 New Lines of code for Area 2, SEDTIUN.FOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
38 New lines of code for Area 3, SEDTRAN.FOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
39 SEDTRAN Example 3: Output file WG1-135.PT . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
40 SEDTRAN Example 3: Output file WGAGE1.PTR . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
41 SEDTRAN Example 4: Output file GC1-135.PT . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
42 SEDTRAN Example 4: Output file WGAGEC1.PTR . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
43 Shoreline data preparation procedure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
44 NOAANautical Chart No. 11478 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
45 AutoCAD file; EX1982.DXF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
46 Digitized shoreline data extracted from DXF file
(File : 1982XYI.DIG) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
47 Digitized shorel~ne position data output from CPS/PC
(File: 1982XY_2.DIG) . . . . .’.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
48 SHORLROT output file 1982XY_l,ROT (first run) . . . . . . . . . . . 110
49 SHORLROT output file 1982XY_l.ROT (second run) . . . . . . . . . . . 112
50 SHORLROT output file 1982XY_2.ROT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
51 CUINTP output file 1982XY_l.ISH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
52 CUINTP output file 1982XY_2.ISH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
53 Digitized and interpolated shoreline position data . . . . . . . . . 118
54 Digitized and interpolated shoreline position data, north reach . . 119
55 Digitized and interpolated shoreline position data, south reach . . 120
56 WTSHO output file 1982CCN.SHO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
57 WTSHO output file 1982CCS,SH0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
58 WTSHO output file 1982CCN2.SHO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
59 WTSHO output file 1982CCS2.SHO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
60 Summary of WIS documentation and data sources . . . . . . . . . . . 129
61 Data sources and transformation of WIS hindcast data . . . . . . . . 132
62 Input time series for WAVETRAN Examples 1 through 5 . . . . . . . . 135
63 Example 1: Output file REPORT.WP3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
64 Example 1: Output file OUTITST.PH3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
65 Phase III wave angle coordinate system convention . . . . . . . . . 139
66 Example 2: Output file REPORT.WP3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
67 Example 2: Output file 0UT2TST.PH3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
68 Example 3: Output file REPORT.WP3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
69 Example 3: Output file 0UT3TST.PH3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146

6
 LIST OF FIGURES (Continued)

& m
70 Example 4: Outputfile REPORT.WP3. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
71 Example 4: Output file 0UT4TST.PH3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
72 Example 5: Outputfile REPORT.WP3. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
73 Example 5: Output file 0UT5TST.PH3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
74 WTWAVTS Example 1: Output file WTOUT1,OTS . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
75 WTWAVTS Example 2: Output file WTOUT2.OTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
76 WTWAVTS Example 3: Output fileWTOUT3.OTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
77 WTWAVTS Example 4: Output file WTOUT4.OTS . . . . . . . . . . . . - 159
78 WTWAVTS Example 5: Output file WTOUT5.OTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
79 Lines where WTWAVTS.FOR must be modified to read wave gage
time series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
80 New lines of code for Area 1, WTWAVTS.FOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
81 New lines of code for Area 2, WTWAVTS.FOR . . . . . . . . . . . - 165
82 WTWAVTS Example 6: Output file WTOUT6.OTS . . . . . . . . . . . 166
83 GENESIS wave angle coordinate system convention . . . . . . . . . 169
84 WTWAVES Example 1: Output file SEASOUT.WAV . . . . . . . . . . . 170
85 WTWAVES Example 2: Output file CEDRSOUT.WAV . . . . . . . . 173
86 WTWAVES Example 3: Output file CEDRSCTS.WAV . . . . . . . . ~ . . 174
87 WTWAVES Example 4: Output file PHASE3_A.WAV . . . . . . . . . . . 175
88 WTWAVES Example 5: Output file PHASE3 B.WAV . . . . . . . . 177
89 Wave data analysis Stage 1 (regional a~alysis) . . . . . . . . . 178
90 RCPWAVE and GENESIS coordinate systems and conventions . . . . . . . 184
91 RCPWAVE conventions for reading of 2-D arrays . . . . . . . . . . . 193
92 SampleRCPWAVE input data set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
93 PC_RCPWV output file TEST1.NSR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
94 Standard RCPWAVE output of water depths (from RCP_OUT) . . . . . . . 198
95 Standard RCPWAVE output of wave angles (from RCP_OUT) . . . . . . . 199
96 Standard RCPWAVE output of wave heights (from RCP_OUT) . . . . . . . 200
97 Template of potential wave approach angle bands . . . . . . . . . . 203
98 WHEREWAV Example 1: Output file SEASOUT.WW . . . . . . - . . . . . 206
99 WHEREWAV Example 2: Output file PH30UT.WW . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208
100 WHEREWAV Example 3: Output file CEDRSOUT.WW . . . . . . . . . . . 210
101 WHEREWAV Example 4: Output file CEDRSCTS.WW . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
102 Lines where WHEREWAV.FOR must be modified to read wave gage
time series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
103 New lines of code for Area 1, WHEREWAV.FOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
104 New lines of code for Area 2, WHEREWAV.FOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
105 New lines of code for Area 3, WHEREWAV.FOR . . . . . . . . . - . . . 216
106 WHEREWAV Example 5: Output file GAGEOUT.WW . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
107 WTNSWAV Example 1: Output file OUT1.NSW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
108 WTNSWAV Example 2: Output file 0UT2.NSW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
109 WTNSWAV Example 3: Outputfile 0UT3.NSW. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
110 WTNSWAV Example 4: Output file 0UT4.NSW . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
111 Example PC_RCPWV output file TEST2.NSR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
112 WTNSWAV Example 5: Output file 0UT5.NSW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
113 WTDEPTH output file TSTIOUT.DEP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
114 WAVETRAN output fileNSTST.PH3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
115 SEDTRAN output using NSTST.PH3 as input . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
116 RCRIToutput fileNSTST.CTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
117 SEDTRAN output using NSTST.CTS as input . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243

7
 .---,. -- ?-., --,. ,,. . . 1.

~ E3z.E
118 WTWAVES output file NSTST. WAV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
119 WHEREWAV output file NSTST. WW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
120 PC RCPWVinput data sets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
121 PC–RCPWV output file SEAS S.NOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
122 PC–RCPWV output file SEAS–C. NSR . . . . . . . 251
123 WT~SWAV output file NSTST~NSW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
124 WTDEPTH output file NSTST. DEP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
125 NSTRANoutput file NSTNP. NSV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
126 NSTRANoutput file NSTNP. PLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
127 Potential longshore sand transport rates based on nearshore
wave data..... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
128 Potential longshore sand transport rates based on offshore
wave data . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . 258
129 Wave data analysis Stage 2 (local analysis) . . . . . . . . . . 259
130 ExampleWAVES file. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
131 ExampleNSWAVfile. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
132 ExampleSTART file , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
133 File name extension controlling single stage simulation . . . . . 283
134 File name extension controlling multiple stage simulations . . , . 285
135 Specification of beach fills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288
136 Placement of groin and breakwater on boundary . . . . . . . . . 290
137 Placement of connecting groin and breakwater . . , . . . . . . . 291
138 Specification of detached breakwater on boundary . . . . . . . . . . 293
139 Specification of detached breakwaters . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
140 Overlapping detached breakwaters . .,. . . . . . . . . . . . . 296
141 Diffracting groin inside detached breakwater . . . . . . . . . . . 297
142 Groin next to grid boundary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299
143 Groins too close together . . , . . . . . . . .’. . . . . . . 300
144 Specification of non-diffracting groins and detached breakwaters . 305
145 Specification of diffracting groins, seawalls, and beach fills . . . 305
146 Volume changes at Lakeview Park, Lorain, Ohio . . . . . . . . . 308
147 Influence of wave height and direction on shoreline change
nearagroin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
148 Influence of wave period on shoreline change behind a
detached breakwater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
149 Influence of wave period on wave height distribution near a
detached breakwater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316
150 Influence of wave variability on shoreline change behind a
detached breakwater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317
151 Influence of location of a pinned beach on shoreline change
nearagroin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , 318
152 Influence of gated boundary parameters on shoreline change
nearagroin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . 320
153 Influence of wave angle sequence on shoreline change near a groin 322
154 Influence of wave height sequence on shoreline change near a groin 323
155 Influence of grid size and time-step or.the calculated
accumulation updrift of a groin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324
156 Influence of groin permeability on shoreline change near a groin . 326
157 Shoreline change as a function of wave transmission . . . . . . , . 327

8
 LIST OF FIGURES Concluded)

~ b
158 Influence of sand grain size on shoreline change behind a
detached breakwater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329
159 Influence of berm height and depth of closure on shoreline
changenearagroin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331
160 Hypothetical example illustrating the influence of the adjustable
parameters in the sand transport equation . . . . . . . . . . . 334
161 Measured shorelines for hypothetical groin case . . . . . . . . 334
162 Calibration to determine the value of K1 . . . . . . . . . . . . 336
163 Calibration to determine the value of K2 . . . . . . . . . 336
164 Model verification of a hypothetical example . . . . . . . . . 337
165 Forecasting and sensitivity test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
166 Project design, Lakeview Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339

9
 CONVERSION FACTORS, NON-SI TO S1 (!.!ZTRIC)
UNITS OF MEASUREMENT
Non-SI units of measurement used in this report can kz converted to S1
(metric) units as follows:
MultiPly By To Obtain
cubic feet 0.02831685 cubic meters
cubic yards 0.7646 cubic meters
degrees (angle) 0.01745319 radians
feet 0.3048 meters
inches 25.4 millimeters
knots (international) 0.5144444 meters per second
miles (US nautical) 1.852 kilometers
miles (US statute) 1.6093 kilometers
yards 0.9144 meters

10
 I GENESIS: GENERALIZED MODEL FOR SIMULATING SHORELIXE CHANGE
WORKBOOK AND SYSTEM USER’S MANUAL
i
I
t
PART I: INTRODUCTION

Purpose of This Report

1. This report is the second in a series documenting the numerical

modeling system GENESIS. The acronym GENESIS stands for ~ralized Model for
flmulating shoreline change and encompasses a grouP Of Programs ‘evelOped ‘or
simulating wave-induced longshore sand transport and movement of the shore-
1ine. The programs form a system in that they are integrated and function
with well-established protocols for inputs and outputs. The system structure
1 is transparent to the user of GENESIS because it is internal, already existing

I and functioning automatically. Report 1 in the GENESIS series (Hanson and

I Kraus 1989), hereafter called the Technical Reference, describes technical

aspects of GENESIS, including its various internal procedures, operation of
the model, and methodology for use of the modeling system in the planning
process.
2. Although operation of GENESIS is central to a shoreline change
simulation project, it is only one of many tasks of such a project, lying
between preparation of the input data and analysis of the simulation results.
These other computer-intensive tasks involve preparing various types of data
needed to run GENESIS and performing preliminary analysis procedures to
understand in quantitative and qualitative terms the coastal sediment trans-
port processes and shoreline change at the project site. Similarly, the
simulation results or outputs from GENESIS must be analyzed and interpreted.
These tasks are external to GENESIS and are accomplished on an as-needed
basis , depending on projects requirements, availability and type of data, and
level of modeling to be performed.
3. The purpose of the present report, hereafter referred to as the
Workbook, is to develop understanding and facility with the computer routines
and associated procedures external to GENESIS. Twelve data analysis and file
handling computer programs and the nearshore wave transformation model RCPWAVE
(Ebersole, Cialone, and Prater 1986) are involved.

11
 4. It is assumed that the reader has had experience in operating
GENESIS and is familiar with the associated concepts and terminology.
Furthermore, a basic understanding of personal computer (PC) operations and
the FORTRAN computer language is assumed. This workbook provides intensive
hands-on training with GENESIS and serves as a referenc~ for the system of
programs surrounding GENESIS. This workbook is for and dedicated to fellow
power users of GENESIS.

GENESIS

5. GENESIS was developed to simulate long-term shoreline change on an

open coast as produced by spatial and temporal differences in longshore sand
transport (Hanson 1987, 1989; Hanson and Kraus 1989). The modeling system is
founded on considerable research and applications of shoreline change numeri-
cal models, as described in the Technical Reference. hJzveaction is the
mechanism producing the longshore sand transport, and, in GENESIS, spatial and
temporal differences in the transport rate may be caused by such diverse
factors as irregular bottom bathymetry, wave diffraction, boundary conditions,
line sources and sinks of sand, and constraints on the transport (such as
produced by seawalls and groins), factors that are interrelated and may work
in different combinations at different times.
6. The modeling system is generalized in that a wide variety of
offshore wave inputs, initial beach plan shape configurations, coastal
structures , and beach fills can be specified. GENESIS is operated through a
data file interface, and, although the computer code is complex, intimate
knowledge of the underlying code and numerical solution procedure is not
required. To operate GENESIS, the user need only become familiar with the
interface and capabilities and limitations of the modeling system, described
in detail in the Technical Reference.
7. The main utility of GENESIS lies in simulating shoreline response to
structures and placement of beach fill. Essentially arbitrary combinations
and configurations of structures (groins, jetties, detached breakwaters, and
seawalls) and beach fills can be represented on a modeled reach of coast. The
model is economical to run and has served as the principal predictive technol-
ogy in numerous quantitative shore protection assessments. In engineering
applications and tests of GENESIS, modeled shoreline reaches have ranged from

12
I
about 1 to 20 miles” with a grid resolution of 50 to 300 ft, ar:dsimulation
periods have spanned from approximately 6 months to 20 years, L-ith wave data
typically entered at simulated time intervals in the range of 33 min to 6 hr,

Capabilities and Limitations of GENESIS

8. Shoreline change models, including GENESIS, are designed to CSscribe

long-term trends of the beach plan shape in the course of its approach co an
equilibrium under the imposed wave conditions, boundary conditions, cor.figura-
tions of coastal structures, and other input parameters. In most applications
of GENESIS, it is desired to calculate the shoreline response to some
engineered or natural perturbation, such as construction of a detached
breakwater, placement of beach fill along a certain portion of the shore, or
sand discharge from a river. GENESIS and similar models work best in
calculating shoreline response, because the perturbation will produce a long-
term trend that is distinct from the normally occurring randon movement of
sand on a beach. In other words, the shoreline change model best talc’~lates
movement of the shoreline in transition from one equilibrium state to another.
9. Shoreline change models are not applicable to simulzcing a rsndomly
fluctuating beach system in which no trend in shoreline position is e~’ident.
In particular, GENESIS is not applicable to calculating shoreline change in
the following situations that involve beach change unrelated co coastal
structures , boundary conditions, or spatial differences in wz.:e-induced
longshore sand transport: (a) beach change inside inlets or in areas
dominated by tidal flow; (b) beach change produced by wind-gexerated currents;
(c) storm-induced beach erosion in which cross-shore sediment transport
processes are dominant (see Larson and Kraus (1989) and Larson, Kraus, and
Byrnes (1990) for discussion of the model SBEACH developed to simulate storm-
induced beach erosion and profile change); (d) and scour at structures.
Table 1, taken from the Technical Reference, gives a summary of major
capabilities and limitations of Version 2 of GENESIS.

* A table of factors for converting non-SI units of measurement to S1

(metric) units is presented on page 10.

13
 Table 1
Malor Capabilities and Limitations of GENESIS Version 2

Capabilities

Almost zrbitrary numbers and combinations of groins, jetties, detached

break~aters, beach fills, and seawalls
Compound structures such as T-shaped, Y-shaped, and spur groins
Bypassing of sand around and transmission through groins and jetties
Diffraction at detached breakwaters, jetties, and groins
Coverage of wide spatial extent
Offshore input waves of arbitrary height, period, and direction
Multiple wave trains (as from independent wave generation sources)
Sand transport due to oblique wave incidence and longshore gradient in height
Wave transmission at detached breakwaters

.,
Limitations
!

“
No wave reflection from structures
No tombolo development (shoreline cannot touch a detached breakwater)
Minor restrictions on placement, shape, and orientation of structures
No direct provision for changing tide level
Basic limitations of shoreline change modeling theory

GENESIS Technical Reference

10. The Technical Reference (Hanson and Kraus 1989), which is the basic
source for learning GENESIS, was written to serve as an authoritative and
comprehensive reference for GENESIS. The Technical Reference covers the
following topics:
a.
— Properties of GENESIS in comparison to other numerical models
of shoreline and beach topography change.
b
—. Capabilities and limitations of the modeling system.
c.
— Role of shoreline change modeling in project planning, and
methodology of the use of GENESIS for planners and modelers.

d.
— Theory of shoreline change modeling and GENESIS, including
assumptions, governing equations, data requirements, boundary
conditions, and associated wave models.
e.
— Numerical solution scheme.

14
 f.
— Operation of GENESIS, including model preparation, input and
output data file structure, representation of common engi-
neering situations, and error and warning messages.

g Detailed case study exercising many features of GENESIS.

The Technical Reference also contains an appendix reviewing previous applica-

tions of GENESIS and its predecessor model, providing a guide to techniques
and results of potential utility in preparing for new projects.
11. The Technical Reference must be thoroughly studied and understood
prior to operating GENESIS in an engineering project, and potential users are
encouraged to attend a GENESIS workshop or work with an experienced GENESIS
user until they become familiar with the modeling system. Misapplication of
the model or misinterpretation of results can lead to costly mistakes, and
responsibility for use of the simulation results lies with the modeler, not
the modeling system.
12. As previously stated, GENESIS is called a modeling system because
it is composed of several computer programs or models that communicate to
simulate wave transformation, interaction of waves and structures, sediment
transport, and shoreline change. Owing to its great flexibility in simulating
long-term shoreline change for user-specified beach and structure configura-
tions , GENESIS provides a framework for developing shore protection problem
and solution statements, for organizing collection and analysis of relevant
data, and for evaluating alternative designs and optimizing the selected
design. GENESIS may be applied at either a reconnaissance level of study
(called the scoping mode), in which only qualitative assessments are made
based on limited amounts of data, or at the design level (called the design
mode), in which all available data and ingenuity are brought to bear to
quantitatively examine project alternatives.

GENESIS Interface and File Structure

13. Operation of GENESIS in design mode requires acquisition, manipula-

tion, and, in some cases, stand-alone analysis of large quantities of input
and output data. Whatever the application, as a minimum the following
information must be provided to GENESIS:
a.
— Initial shoreline position for starting the simulation (and
other measured shoreline positions at different times for
performing model calibration and verification).

15
 b
—. Wave data.
c
—. Measured beach profiles and/or knowledge of the sand grain size
from which an average beach profile slope and depth of closure
of active profile movement can be determined.
d.
— Structure and beach-fill configurations.
e.
— Boundary conditions (one on each end of the shoreline reach to
be modeled).

Other data may be required, as listed in Table 2 of the Technical Reference.

Because of the complexity of coastal processes and the wave-beach-structure
interaction, modeling should not be done in isolation, but, rather, should
extend and complement experience of the engineer, scientist, and planner on
the target coast.
1’4. Preparation and analysis of the input and output data streams
occupy a substantial portion (perhaps a majority) of the time spent on a
GENESIS project. This aspect of the modeling process cannot be overemphasized
for three reasons:
a
—. The accuracy and reliability of a shoreline position change
simulation are directly related to the quality and completeness
of the input data sets.
b.
— The data organization and analysis process itself forms the
first and a necessary level in understanding coastal processes
at the project site.
c.
— The simulation results must be interpreted within the context
of regional and local coastal processes, and the natural
variability of the coastal system.

15. The various types of data needed to operate GENESIS are contained
in as many as seven input files (the exact number of input files used depends
on the problem), and the modeling system sends computed results and key inputs
to three output files, as shown in Figure 1. In the Technical Reference, only
six input files were described. In the present report, a new file, called
NSWAV is introduced, as described in Part VI. Preparation of the data streams
needed to run GENESIS and interpretation of simulation results form the
backbone of the process of conceptualizing a project; the degree of success in
a shoreline change modeling effort to a large extent depends on preparation
and analysis of the input data. Much of the material in this report is
devoted to treatment of input data and sensitivity of calculated results to
changes in the data.

16
 I START.ext I—I
G
I SHORL.ext I—I
E
~ sETuf’.e’t I

1SHORM. ext
I
I
N
IWfAVES.exi I I E ~ ouTpT.ext I

II
SEAWL.ext II s
II NSWAV. ext 14 I

II DEPTH.ext Ii-:
s

Figure 1. Input and output file structure of GENESIS

Input files
16. To run GENESIS, the four input files START, WAVES, SHORL, and
SHORM, outlined with solid borders in Figure 1, must always contain data of
appropriate format and amount. The files with open-line borders, SEAWL,
NSWAV, and DEPTH, need only contain data if required by the project and START
file. These files are reviewed here; the file extension “.ext” is left for
user specification. GENESIS requires input files to be named as shown in
Figure 1 and is designed to accept interactive user input of the extension
name. For a given GENESIS simulation, all the required input files must have
the same extension.
17. The file START contains the instructions that control the shoreline
change simulation and is the principal interface between the modeler and
GENESIS. These instructions include the spatial and temporal ranges of the

17
 t
simulation, structure and beach-fill configurations, values of model calibra- t
tion parameters, and simulated times when output is desired. SHORL contains ,

the initial shoreline positions referenced to the baseline established for the t

calculation. SHORM holds measured shoreline positions to which calculated

positions ray be compared, such as in model calibration and verification.
Even if no comparison is made, SHORM must contain data, for example, the
initial shoreline. WAVES holds wave information from which longshore sand
transport rates are calculated to compute shoreline change.
18. SEAWL contains the positions of seawalls located in the model
reach; if there are no seawalls (as specified in the START file), SEAWL will
not be read. NSWAV contains nearshore wave height and direction at each wave
block alongshore on a nearshore line developed by the user. Information in
NSWAV is usually generated with an external wave model; this new input data
file is further discussed in Part VI. DEPTH contains water depths along the
nearshore line from which GENESIS will propagate waves to breaking from values
provided in NSWAV. DEPTH will not be read if an external wave model was not
used to supply wave data.
Output files
19. The output file SETUP echoes to the modeler key parameters speci-
fied in the START file, providing documentation of the run; it also contains
error and warning messages issued by GENESIS during the simulation. OUTPT
contains the major results of the simulation, including final calculated
shoreline position and net and gross longshore sand transport rates, among
many types of output information. SHORC holds shoreline positions calculated
at the last time-step of the simulation and can be manipulated as an input
SHORL file for a succeeding calculation performed with a modified START file.

Scope of Report

20. Part I gives a general introduction to GENESIS and shoreline change

modeling, and the purpose and content of this report. The main technical
material in the report is contained in Parts II through VIII and the
s~~endices . Part II gives a summary of the physical and mat;-,ematicalformula-
tion of GENESIS so that the reader need not consult the Technical Reference to
answer most questions that may arise on technical material in this report.
Included in Part II are discussion of the basic assumptions, review of the

18
 I
I
J governing equations, and practical considerations about the longshore sand
i transport rate.
I
I
21. Part III, which begins the new material contained in this report,
i
presents two major routines used to compute potential longshore sand transport
rates and to preprocess wave data time series for efficienr use in GENESIS.
I Part IV describes the routines needed to process, analyze, and enter measured
shoreline position information in GENESIS, one of the three fundamental data
inputs in design mode applications of the system.
22. Parts V and VI describe procedures and computer routines to develop
input wave data sets. Part V, analysis of offshore wave information, concerns
the transformation of waves from deeper water to intermediate depth, and Part
VI, analysis of nearshore wave information, concerns transformation of waves
from intermediate depth to shallow water and near-wave breaking.
23. Part VII gives practical techniques and advice for setting up data
input files and operating GENESIS with a minimal number of errors, including
locating and correcting errors that are commonly encountered. Part VIII
addresses an important aspect of shoreline change modeling, interpretation and
presentation of the output from GENESIS, namely, longshore sand transport
rates and shoreline position or change. As a simulation model, GENESIS
approximates what has happened or will happen to the shoreline along the
coast. Part VIII provides a framework for assessing simulation results and
establishing confidence in model predictions.
24. Appendix A provides a key for interpreting flowchart symbols and a
list of computer program names, in alphabetical order for convenient refer-
ence. Appendices B through L contain source listings of the major system
support codes, written in the FORTRAN computer language. Appendix M lists
notation and computer variables discussed in the main text of this report.
Appendix N is a subject index.

19
 PART II: REVIEW OF GENESIS

25. In this chapter, the physical picture underlying GENESIS and its
mathematical representation are summarized for reference in subsequent
discussion of the GENESIS system support programs. part V of the Technical

Reference may be consulted for a more detailed treatment of the mathematical

representation and numerical solution scheme.

Basic Assumptions of Shoreline Chan~e Modeling

26. The first and most basic assumption of shoreline change modeling is
that the beach profile moves landward and seaward while retaining the same
shape (Figure 2). Therefore, any point on the profile is sufficient to
specify the horizontal location of the profile with respect to a baseline, and
one contour line can be used to describe change in the beach plan shape and
volume as the beach erodes and accretes. This contour line is taken as the
shoreline , and the model is therefore called the “shoreline change” or
“shoreline response” model. Sometimes the terminology “one-line” model, a
shortening of the phrase “one-contour line” model, is used with reference to
the single contour line.
27. A second geometrical-type assumption is that sand is transported
alongshore between two well-defined limiting elevations on the profile. The
shoreward limit is located at the top of the active berm, and the seaward
limit is located where no significant depth changes occurs, the so-called
depth of profile closure. Determination of the top of the active berm is
relatively straightforward, but the depth of closure is more difficult to
estimate and is discussed later in this chapter.
28. The model also requires a predictive expression for the net long-
shore sand transport rate. For open-coast beaches, to which GENESIS pertains,
the transport rate is taken to be a function of the breaking wave height and
direction alongshore. The horizontal circulation in the nearshore, which
actually moves the sand, is not directly considered.
29. Finally, the model must be applied where there is a long-term trend
in shoreline behavior in order to separate and predict a clear signal of
shoreline change from cyclical and random movement in the beach system

20
 a. Cross-section view

—.
— I
t-
I
AY

QAt
1
‘
DISTANCE OFFSHORE Y

L
.— —— — —— —

G q=AxAt qoAxAt

—— — —— ——. ———

x !

(Q+%AIA’
b. Plan view

Figure 2. Definition sketch for shoreline change calculation

21
 .

produced by storms, seasonal changes in waves, and tidzl fluctuations. In

essence, the assumption of a clear trend in shoreline chizngeimplies that
breaking waves and boundary conditions are the major factors controlling long-
term beach change. This assumption is usually well satisfied at engineering
projects involving groins, jetties, and detached break-~z:ers, which introduce
biases in the transport rate.
30. In summary, standard assumptions of shoreli~e change modeling
include the following:
a.
— The beach profile shape is constant.
b
—. The shoreward and seaward limits of the profile are constant.
c.
— Sand is transported alongshore by the action of breaking waves.
d.
- Detailed structure of the nearshore circulation can be ignored.
e.
— There is a long-term trend in shoreline evolution.

Governing Eauation for Shoreline Chzn~e

31. The partial differential equation governing shoreline change in the

one-line model is formulated by conservation of sand volume under the above
assumptions . Consider a right-handed Cartesian coordinate system in which the
y-axis points offshore and the x-axis is oriented parallel to the trend of the
coast (Figures 2a and 2b). The quantity y* thus denotes shoreline position,
and x denotes distance alongshore. It is assumed that the beach profile
translates seaward or shoreward along a section of coast without changing
shape when a net amount of sand enters or leaves the seccion during a time
interval At. The change in shoreline position is Ay, the length of the
shoreline segment is Ax, and the profile moves within a vertical extent
defined by the berm elevation DB and the closure depth Dc, both measured from
the same vertical datum (for example, Mean Sea Level or Hean Lower Low Water).
32. The change in volume of the section, AV = AXAY(DB + De), is
determined by the net amount of sand that enters or exits the section from its
four sides. One contribution to the volume change results if there is a
difference in the longshore sand transport rate Q at the lateral sides of the
section and the associated net volume change is AQAt = (i?Q/dx)AxAt. Another

* For convenience, symbols and abbreviations are listed in the Notation

(Appendix M).

22
 contribution can arise from a line source or sink of sand, which adds or
removes a volume of sand per unit width of beach from either the shoreward
side at the rate of q~ or from the offshore side at the rate of qO. This
I
4
contribution gives a rate of q = q~ + qO and associated volume change of
!

AqAxAt . Addition of the contributions and equating them to the volume change
; Rearrangement of terms and
gives AV = AXAY(DB + DC) = (dQ/6’x)AxAt + qAxAt.
(
taking the limit At —> O yields the governing equation for the rate of change
of shoreline position:

ay ,
(1)
z (D,: D=) (%-q)=o

33. To solve Equation 1, the initial shoreline position over the full
reach to be modeled, boundary conditions on each end of the besch, and values
for Q, q, DB, and DC must be given. These quantities, together with informa-
tion on structure configurations and beach fill, directly or indirectly
comprise the main data requirements for using GENESIS.

Sand Transport Rates

Loruzshore sand transport

34. The empirical predictive formula for the longshore sand transport
rate used in GENESIS is,

Q = (H2CJb al sin20b~ - az cosOb= (2)

[

in which
H = wave height, m
C~ = wave group speed given by linear wave theory, m/see
b = subscript denoting wave breaking condition
(lb,= angle of breaking waves to the local shoreline

The nondimensional parameters al and az are given by

23
 KI
% =
16 (S- 1) (1 -P)(l.416)5’2
(3)
Kz
a2 =
8(S - 1) (1 -p)tan~(l.416)7’2

where

KI = empirical coefficient, treated as a calibration parameter

s = Ps/P

p. = density of sand (taken to be 2.65 103 kg/m3 for quartz sand)

P= density of water (1.03 103 kg/m3 for seawater)

p = porosity of sand on the bed (taken to be 0.4)
K2 = empirical coefficient, treated as a calibration parameter
tan~ = average bottom slope from the shoreline to the depth of active
longshore sand transport

35. The first term in Equation 2 corresponds to the “Coastal

Engineering Research Center (CERC) formula” described in the Shore Protection
Manual (SPM 1984) and accounts for longshore sand transport produced by
obliquely incident breaking waves. A value of KI = 0.77 was originally
determined by Komar and Inman (1970) from their sand tracer experiments, using
root mean square (rms) wave height in the calculations. Kraus et al. (1982)
recommended a decrease of KI to 0.58 on the basis of their tracer experiments.
As this order of magnitude for KI is well known in the literature, the
standard engineering quantity of significant wave height to be entered in the
wave data stream is converted to an rms value in GENESIS by the factor
involving 1.416 to compare values of KI determined by calibration of the
model.
36. The second term in Equation 2 is not part of the CERC formula and
describes the effect of another generating mechanism for longshore sand
transport, the longshore gradient in breaking wave height dHb/dx. The
contribution arising from the longshore gradient in wave height is usually
much smaller than that from oblique wave incidence in an open-coast situation.
However, in the vicinity of structures where diffraction produces a substan-
tial change in breaking wave height over a considerable length of beach,
inclusion of the second term provides an improved modeling result. The value
of K2 is typically 0.5 to 1.0 times that of K1. It is not recommended to vary

24
Kz much beyond l.OKI, as exaggerated shoreline change may be calculated in the
vicinity of structures and numerical instability may also occur.
37. Although the values of KI and Kz have been empirically estimated,

these coefficients are treated as parameters in calibration of the model and

are called “transport parameters. ” The transport parameter KI controls the
time scale of the simulated shoreline change, as well as the magnitude of the
longshore sand transport rate. This control of the time scale and magnitude
of the longshore sand transport rate is performed in concert with the factor
l/(DB + Dc) appearing in the shoreline change governing equation, Equation 1.
38. In summary, because of the many assumptions and approximations that
have gone into formulation of the shoreline response model, and to account for
the actual sand transport along a given coast, the coefficients K1 and K2 are
treated as calibration parameters in GENESIS. Their values are determined by
reproducing measured shoreline change and order of magnitude and direction of
the longshore sand transport rate.
Sources and sinks
39. The quantity q in Equation 1 represents a line source or sink of
sand along the stretch of modeled beach. Typical sources are rivers and
cliffs, whereas typical sinks are inlets and entrance channels. Wind-blown
sand at the shore can act as either a source or sink on the landward boundary,
depending on wind direction. General predictive formulas cannot be given for
the shoreward and seaward rates q= and qO, whose values depend on the particu-
lar situation. These quantities typically vary with time and are a function
of distance alongshore. The capability to represent sources and sinks is not
included in Version 2 of GENESIS. As an alternative, a direct change in
shoreline position can be implemented.
Direct chanze in shoreline position
40. The position of the shoreline can also change directly, for
example, as a result of beach fill or dredging (sand mining). In this case,
the profile is translated shoreward or seaward, as required, by a specified
amount, which can be a function of time and distance alongshore. GENESIS
allows specification of a direct change in shoreline position, which may be
positive (seaward), as caused by beach fill, or negative (landward), as by
sand mining.

25
 Empirical Parameters

Depth of loruzshore transport

41. The width of the profile over which longshore transport takes place
under a given set of wave conditions is used by GEKESIS to calculate the
amount of sand bypassing (percentage of total) occurring at groins and
jetties. Because the major portion of alongshore sand movement takes place in
the surf zone, this distance is approximately equal to the width of the surf
zone and principally depends on the breaking wave height.
42. The sand bypassing algorithm in GENESIS requires a depth of active
longshore transport, which is directly related to the width of the surf zone
under the assumption that the profile is a monotonically increasing function
of distance offshore, as discussed in the next section. In Version 2 of
GENESIS, a quantity called “the depth of active longshore transport” DLT is
defined and set equal to the depth of breaking of the highest one-tenth waves
at the updrift side of the structure. Under standard assumptions, this depth
is related to the significant wave height Hlla used throughout GENESIS, by

D LT + (%3)*
(4)
=

in which
1.27 = conversion factor between one-tenth highest wave height and
significant wave height
y= breaker index, ratio of wave height to water depth at breaking
(Hlls)b= significant wave height at breaking, m

If y = 0.78 is used in Equation 4, then D~~ = 1.6(H113)~. Thus , the depth

defining the seaward extent of the zone of active longshore transport DLT is
much less than the depth of closure Dc, except under extremely high waves.
43. GENESIS uses another characteristic depth, termed the “maximum
depth of longshore transport” DLTO, to calculate the average beach slope tanfi
appearing in Equation 3. The quantity DLtO is calculated as

D LTo = (2.3 -10.9HO) ~ (5)

LO

26
r
I
!
in which
HO/LO = wave steepness in deep water

HO = significant wave height in deep water, m

LO = wavelength in deep water, m

From linear vave theory, L. = gT2/2n, in which g is the acceleration due to

gravity (m2/see) and T (see) is the wave period. If spectral wave information
is given, T is taken as the peak spectral wave period; otherwise, it is the
period associated with the significant waves. Equation 5 was introduced by
Hallermeier (1983) to estimate an approximate annual limit depth of the
littoral zone under extreme waves. In GENESIS, D~~O is calculated at each

i time-step from the input deepwater wave data and is assumed to be valid over
I

1 the entire longshore extent of the modeled reach. Because wave characteris-
i
tics vary seasonally, this definition of the maximum depth of longshore
transport will reflect changes in average profile shape and beach slope, as
described next.
Avers!.zevrofile shape and slope
44. The shoreline change equation (Equation 1) was derived without
reference to a specific shape for the bottom profile, requiring only that the
profile maintain its shape. However, to determine the location of breaking
waves alongshore and depth at the tips of structures that extend offshore, and
to calculate the average nearshore bottom slope used in the longshore trans-
port equation, a profile shape must be specified. For this purpose, the
equilibrium profile shape empirically obtained by Bruun (1954) and Dean (1977)
is used. They demonstrated that the average profile shape for a wide variety
of beaches can be represented by the simple relation,

(6)

in which D is the water depth (m) and A is an empirical coefficient called the
scale parameter, having the dimensions m113. The scale parameter A has been
shown by Moore (1982) to depend on the beach grain size. For use in GENESIS,
the design curve for A given by Moore was approximated by a series of lines
given as a function of the median nearshore beach grain size d50 (d50 expressed
in mm):

27
 A = 0.41 (d~O)0”94
, C150 <0.4
A = 0.23 (d~O)0”32
, o.4<d50<:oio
(7)
A = 0.23 (d50)0”28 , 10.0 <d~o <4000
A = 0.46 (d~o)o.ll
, 40.0<d~0

If beach survey profiles for the target beach are avzilable, it is recommended
that the modeler use curves such as given in Figure 7 of the Technical
Reference as templates to determine an effective median grain size. The
effective grain size, supplied to GENESIS in the START file, will produce an
A-value that will give the most representative equilibrium profile shape. If
profile survey data are lacking, the median grain size of the surf zone sand
should be used.
45. The average nearshore slope tan~ for the equilibrium profile
defined by Equation 6 is calculated as the average value of the integral of
-1/3, in which yLT is
the slope dD/dy from O to yLT, resulting in tan(l= A(fieT)
the width of the littoral zone, extending seaward to the depth DLTO. Since by
definition yLT = (DLTo/A)312, the average slope is calculated to be

1/2
tan~ =
() —A3
D LTo
(8)

Depth of closure
46. The depth of closure, the seaward limit beyond which the profile
does not exhibit significant change in depth, is a difficult parameter to
quantify. Empirically, the location of profile closure Dc cannot be iden-
tified with confidence, as small bathymetric change in deeper water is
difficult to measure. This situation usually results in a depth of closure
located within a wide range of values, requiring judgment to be exercised to
specify a single value. If numerous “long” profile surveys are available, the
standard deviation can be plotted as a function of depth. The standard
deviation typically decreases sharply at a certain depth, which can be
considered to be the depth of closure (Kraus and Harikai 1983). Figure 8 of
the Technical Reference gives examples of such calculations. The depth of
closure is typically in the range of 6 to 8 m for the open Atlantic coast,
where the average wave period is about 7 see, and 8 to 12 m on the open

28
I pacific coast, where the average wave period is about 10 sec. A sheltered
i beach is expected to have a smaller depth of closure.
,
47. Profile surveys are often not available to a sufficient depth and

with sufficient vertical and horizontal control to allow comparisons of

profiles to be made. In this situation, the depth of closure may be estimated
by reference to a maximum seasonal or annual wave height. Hallermeier (1983)

found that the maximum seaward limit of the littoral zone could be expressed
by Equation 5 if the wave height and period are given by the averages of the
highest significant waves occurring for 12 hr during the year.
48. Because the depth of closure is difficult to estimate at most
sites, the modeler must use some external means to determine a value for the
particular project. It is recommended that both bathymetry (profile) surveys
and Equation 5 be used as a check of the consistency of values obtained. On
an open-ocean coast, the depth of closure is not expected to show significant
longshore variation, since the wave climate and sand characteristics would be
similar.

Wave Calculation

49. Offshore wave information can be obtained from either a “numerical”

gage, i.e., a hindcast calculation, or from an actual wave gage. Wave data
from the gage are typically input to the model at the fixed time interval of
6 hr. The wave height and direction at the gage must then be transformed to
breaking at calculation cells alongshore for input to the longshore sand
transport rate calculation in GENESIS. Monochromatic wave models hold the
wave period constant in this process.
50. The modeling system GENESIS is composed of two major submodels:
one calculates the longshore sand transport rate and shoreline change, and the
other calculates, under simplified conditions, breaking wave height and angle
alongshore as determined from wave information given at a reference depth
offshore. The latter submodel is called the internal ~ transformation
model, as opposed to another, completely independent, external ~
transformation model which can be optionally used to supply nearshore wave
information to GENESIS. The availability and reliability of wave data as well
as the complexity of the nearshore bathymetry should be used to evaluate which
wave model to apply.

29
 51. The two possible ways of using the internzl and external wave
transformation models and their spatial domains are depicted in Figure 3.
The internal model is applicable to a sea bottom with approximately straight,
parallel contours; breaker height and angle are calculated at grid points
alongshoze starting from the reference depth of the offshore wave input
(Figure 3a). If an external wave model is used (Figure 3b), it calculates
wave transformation over the actual (irregular) bathymetry starting at the
offshore reference depth. Resultant values of wave height and direction at
depths alongshore for which wave breaking has not yet occurred are placed in a
file (by the modeler) for input to the internal wave model. These depths,
taken, for example, as the depths in each wave calculation cell (herein
referred to as a wave block) immediately seaward of the 6-m contour, define a
“nearshore reference line,” from which the internal wave transformation model
in GENESIS takes over grid cell by grid cell to bring the waves to the
breaking point.
52. If structures that produce diffraction are located in the modeling
reach, the internal wave transformation model will automatically include the
effect of diffraction in the process of determining breaking wave character-
istics. These structures should not, therefore, be included in performing
calculations with an external wave transformation model.

Internal Wave Transformation Model

BreakinE waves
53. Initially, waves are transformed from the deepwater reference depth
or the nearshore reference line (depending on whether or not the external wave
transformation model is used) without accounting for diffraction from
structures or land masses located in the model reach. The solution strategy
is to obtain a first approximation without including diffraction and then to
modify the result by accounting for changes to the wave field by each
diffraction source.
54. Omitting diffraction, there are three unknowns in the breaking wave
calculz:ion: wave height, wave angle, and depth at b~ssking; the three
equations needed to obtain these quantities follow. These are the equations

30
I
~ DEEFWATER R~ENCE DEPTH “
.,
Y
—

p4H\
I

\WAVE
RAYS

I ~Y SIRAIGHT AND

I
“.”-.::
:.-
- ““- . . . . .. . . . . .
UNE -
r
. . ... . . . . .
SHOR~NE

x
Distance Alongshore

a. Transformation by internal wave model only

—. .
IRR-GULAR-BC) M
u
NEARSHORE E :
R~ENCE -
.
. .. ..
. . . W/y% “
+~
. ——
. . .
. . . BRW4KH? UNE -
. SHOREUNE
. . . .. . . .. . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . .. .-

Distance Alongshore x

b. Transformation by external and internal wave models

Figure 3. Operation of wave transformation models

31
for the breaking wave height based on reference wave data (Equation 9), a
depth-limited breaking criterion (Equation 10), and Snell’s Law (Equation 12),
which specifies the wave angle.
55. Equation 9 is used to calculate the height of breaking waves which
ha~’ebeen transformed by refraction and shoaling,

Hb = KRK~H=,f (9)

in which
H~ = breaking wave height at an arbitrary point alongshore, m
KR = refraction coefficient
KS = shoaling coefficient
Href = wave height at the offshore reference depth or the nearshore
reference line depending on which wave model is used, m

The refraction and shoaling coefficients are given by linear-wave theory.

56. The equation for depth-limited wave breaking is given by,

Hb = YDb (lo)

in which Db is the depth at breaking and the breaker index y is a function of

the deepwater wave steepness and the average beach slope (Smith and Kraus,
1991),

y.b.~~ (11)
LO

in which a = 5.00 [1 - exp(-43 tan~)] and b = 1.12/[1 + exp(-60 tar$)].

57. The wave angle at breaking is calculated by means of Snell’s law,
under the assumption of locally plane and parallel bottom contours,

sinOB
—=@@ (12)
Lb L

32
in which 6b and ~ are the angle and wavelength at the break point, and O and
L are the corresponding quantities at an offshore point, with the wavelength
calculated by linear-wave theory.
58. The three unknowns Hb, Db, and t3bare obtaineti at intervals

alongshore by iterative solution of Equations 9, 10, and 12 as a function of

the wave height and angle at the reference depth and the wave period.
59. Wave refraction models provide the undiffracted breaking wave angle
Ob in the fixed coordinate system. With reference to Figure 4, the breaking

wave angle to the local shoreline required to calculate the longshore sand
transport rate, Equation 2, is obtained as

0bs =eb-e= (13)

in which OS = tan-l(dy/~x) is the angle of the shoreline with respect to the

x-axis. In GENESIS, an angle of O deg signifies wave incidence normal to the
baseline. The angle (3bdrawn in Figure 4 is positive.

ANGLE OF INCIDENT WAVE

CREST TO THE X-AXIS

/ ,SHORELINE

,...’

,.,, .,
,,.,, .,,,

,,, x
.’, Distance Alongshore

Figure 4. Definition of breaking wave angles

33
 If ~here are ~0 structures to produce diffraction, the undiffra~ted
60.
are used as input to the sediment transport relation
~ilvcchaL-aC~eriStics
breaking wave heights and angles
(EquatiOSl2). If such obstacles are present,
are recalculated, as described next.
Erealcin9 waves affected by structures
61. Structures such as detached breakwaters, jetties, and groins that
extend well seaward of the surf zone intercept the incident waves prior to
breaking. Headlands and islands may also intercept waves. In the following
discussion, all such objects are referred to as structures. Each tip of a
structure will produce a near-circular wave pattern, and this distortion of
the wave field is a significant factor controlling the response of the
shoreline in the lee of the structure. Sand typically accumulates in the
diffraction shadow of a structure, being transported from one or both sides by
the oblique wave angles in the circular wave pattern and the decrease in wave
height alongshore with penetration into the shadow region. Accurate and
efficient calculation of waves transforming under combined diffraction,
refraction, and shoaling to breaking is required to obtain realistic
predictions of shoreline change in such situations.
62. In areas where the waves have undergone diffraction, Equation 14 is
used to calculate the height of breaking waves that have been transformed by
diffraction, refraction, and shoaling,

Hb = K~~b (14)

in which
K~ = diffraction coefficient
Hi = breaking wave height at the same cell without diffraction, m

63, The three unknowns Hb, Db, and 6~ are obtained at intervals
alongshore by iterative solution of Equation 14 together with Equations 10
and 12 as a function of the wave period and the wave height and angle at the
breaking depth.
Contour modification
64. The beach plan shape changes as a result of spatial differences in
longshore sand transport. The change in the beach shape, in turn, alters the
refraction of the waves. This interaction between beach and waves is

34
represented in GENESIS by using a coordinate system rotated to align with the
local contours (which change in time) at each calculation point in taking

waves from a reference depth to the point of breaking.

wave transmission at detached breakwaters

65. The design of detached breakwaters for shore protection requires

consideration of many factors, including structure length, distance offshore,
crest height, core composition, and gap between structures in the case of
segmented breakwaters. Wave transmission, a term describing the movement of
waves over and through a structure, is present in most practical applications,
since it is economical and often advantageous from the perspective of beach
change control to build low or porous structures to allow energy to penetrate
behind them.
66. One of the principal upgrades of Version 2 of GENESIS is its
capability to simulate wave transmission at detached breakwaters and its
impact on shoreline change. This capability was tested with excellent results
for Holly Beach, Louisiana, a site containing six breakwaters of different
construction and transmission characteristics (Hanson, Kraus, and Nakashima
1989), and for Lorain, Ohio, a site having three transmissive rubble-mound
breakwaters (Hanson and Kraus 1991).
67. To describe wave transmission in the modeling system, a value of a
transmission coefficient K~ must be provided for each detached breakwater.
The transmission coefficient, defined as the ratio of the height of the
incident waves directly shoreward of the breakwater to the height directly
seaward of the breakwater, has the range O s K~ s 1, for which a value of
O implies no transmission and 1 implies complete transmission.
68. The derivation of the phenomenological wave transmission algorithm
in GENESIS was developed on the basis of three criteria:
a.
— As KT approaches zero, the calculated wave diffraction should
equal that given by standard diffraction theory for an
impermeable, infinitely high breakwater.
b.
— If two adjacent energy windows have the same KT, no diffraction
should occur (wave height uniform at the boundary) .
c.
— On the boundary between energy windows with different K~, wave
energy should be conveyed from the window with higher waves
into the window with smaller waves. The wave energy trans-
ferred should be proportional to the ratio between the two
transmission coefficients.

35
 69. The criteria lead to the following expression for the diffraction
coefficient K~~ for transmissive breakwaters,

KD +Rm(l - KD) inside shadow zone

K~-Rm(K~ - 0.5) on border (15)
K DT =

(KD(l - Rm) outside shadow zone

in which R~T is the ratio of the smaller valued transmission coefficient to

the larger valued transmission coefficient for two adjacent breakwaters. The
terminology “shadow zone” refers to the region shadowed to waves by the
breakwater with associated value of K~T.
70. Figure 5 shows a hypothetical example of shoreline change behind a
transmissive detached breakwater. The breakwater is 200 m long and located
250 m offshore. Incident waves with T = 6 sec and H = 1.5 m propagate with
the wave crests parallel to the initially straight shoreline, and the simula-
tion time is 180 hr. As expected, the seaward extent of the induced large

Shoreline Position (m)

‘T //////’//-’//A Wave] Crests

7L — 00
20
— 0.2

‘---- 0.4
15 ‘“”-”””- 0.8

10

0
I
I
I
-5 I I I I I

o 100 200 300 400 500

Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 5. Shoreline change as a function of transmission

36
cusp (salient) decreases as wave transmission increases. Also , the salient
broadens slightly with increased transmission, and the eroded areas on either
side of the salient fill in.
Representative offshore contour
71. A basic assumption in the formulation of the shoreline change model
is that the profile moves parallel to itself. As a consequence, offshore
contours move parallel to the shoreline. If this assumption is applied
directly in the internal wave transformation model, unrealistic refraction can
result in regions where the shoreline position changes relatively abruptly,
possibly leading to numerical instability. To overcome this limitation,
GENESIS has the option of using a smoothed offshore contour in performing the
internal wave calculation, as illustrated in Figure 6. In this figure, the
shore-parallel contour shown changes radically at the groin. The smoothed
contour is expected to better represent the offshore bathymetry. If the
smoothed contour option is chosen, the contour is assumed to be representative

SHORELINE–PARALLEL
A~ OFFSHORE CONTOUR

SMOOTHED~
OFFSHORE CONTOUR m

.~-.
,..
,..,,
:“
K&
Jp~”’ ;

Figure 6. Example of representative contour

37
of all contour lines between the input wave depth and the undiffracted wave
breaking depth. The orientation of the representative offshore contour is
recalculated on monthly intervals using the shoreline position at that time.

External Wave Transformation Model: RCPWAVE

72. In many applications, offshore contours cannot be considered as

plane and parallel-. In these cases accurate modeling of shoreline change
requires calculation of the nearshore waves using the actual bathymetry. For
the open-coast situation, the linear-wave transformation model RCPWAVE
(Regional ~oastal Erocesses WAVE model) (Ebersole 1985; Ebersole, Cialone, and
Prater 1986) has advantages for use with GENESIS:
a.
— It solves for wave height and angle values directly on a grid.
b
—. It is efficient, allowing wide-area coverage.
c.
— It includes diffractive effects produced by an irregular
bottom, thus reducing caustic generation as well as providing
better accuracy than a pure refraction model.
d.
- It has proven to be very stable.

73. RCPWAVE computes values of wave height and angle at grid points on
a nearshore reference line, shown schematically in Figure 3b. From this line
the internal wave transformation model in GENESIS brings waves to breaking.
Figure 7 shows the relation between GENESIS and RCPWAVE in the overall
calculation flow.
74. Shoreline change simulation intervals are typically on the order of
several years and the extent of the modeled reach several kilometers, requir-
ing hundreds of grid cells. Since the time-step for the simulation is
typically 6 hrj but may be much smaller, for example, 30 min if detached
breakwaters and short grid spacing are involved, thousands of wave calcula-
tions must be performed. It is impractical to run a wave transformation model
such as RCPWAVE for each time-step because of the enormous execution time
involved. A general wave model runs on a two-dimensional grid, and its
execution time is proportional to N2, where N is on the order of the number of
grid cells in the x- and y-directions. In contrast, GENESIS is a one-dimen-
sional model, and its execution time is proportional to N. Therefore, it is
unbalanced in computational effort to perform an external wave calculation at
every shoreline simulation time-step. As a related physical consideration,

38
 HISTOR&MJNE STRWTU17ES, 80UNDARY
b GENESIS COMXTIONS,OTHER OATA

Figure 7. GENESIS, RCPWAVE, and the overall calculation flow

time series of offshore waves are usually not available or, if available,
contain uncertainties, implying that an expensive, precise, but not
necessarily accurate numerical wave transformation calculation would not be in
balance with approximate input data.
75. Rather than running the external wave transformation model at every
time-step, a time-saving technique is used in which the offshore wave
conditions are divided into period and angle bands. Typically, the range in
period existing in the record is divided into 2-see intervals, and the range
in direction of incident waves is divided into 22.5-deg intervals. This
procedure gives on the order of 50 to 100 period-angle bands, and refraction
runs are made with the external wave model using unit wave height to provide
what are termed “transformation coefficients” along the nearshore reference
line. To key into these calculated refraction results, the wave conditions in
the offshore time series are grouped into the designated period-angle bands.

39
The wave height on the nearshore reference line calculated with unit offshore
wave height is then given as the product of the transformation coefficient
alongshore and the input offshore wave height at the time-step, which is
permissible by linear wave theory. Thus , although the wave period and angle
are constrained to lie in a finite number of bands, the actual offshore wave
height is used. Since it is doubtful whether directional resolution greater
than 11.25 or 22.5 deg can be achieved by either a deepwater wave gage or
hindcast, the described procedure is an adequate representation of the data,
yet it allows for efficient calculation. The procedures for defining wave
period and angle bands and developing a key to locate the nearshore wave data
associated with the particular offshore wave period and angle are described in
Part VI.
76. Manipulation of the wave database as described previously requires
substantial effort and is one of the necessary tasks that must be performed as
part of the data preparation process if an external wave model is used.
Practical details of the use of an external refraction model with GENESIS are
given in the Part VI.

Limiting Dee~water Wave Steemess

77. The input offshore wave data may be changed for a number of
reasons, for example, to examine model sensitivity, investigate extreme cases,
and run waves for storm conditions. In these investigations the wave height
is usually increased. In the process, if care is not taken, it is possible to
specify waves of unphysically large steepness. GENESIS performs a check that
the offshore input wave steepness satisfies the Mitchell (1893) limiting wave
steepness criterion:

H (16)
~=0.142
LO

If the calculated wave steepness exceeds the value of 0.142, the offshore wz’re
height, assumed to approximate the deepwater wave height, is reduced to
satisfy Equation 16, maintaining input wave period at the same value. A
warning message is also issued, as described in Part VII.

40
 Wave Enern Windows

78. The concept of wave energy windows is central to GENESIS and

determines its algorithmic Structure. Wave energy windows provide a powerful

means of describing breaking wave conditions and the associated sand transport
~longshore for a wide variety of configurations of coastal Structures. It is
valuable to understand energy windows and transport domains for properly
configuring GENESIS to model reaches containing structures as well as to
interpret the results of calculations involving structures. Energy windows
and transport domains are constructs internal to GENESIS and are automatically

defined according to entries in the START file. The Technical Reference gives
specific examples.
Ener~v windows
79. An energy window is defined as a beach area open to incident waves
as viewed from that particular stretch of beach. Operationally, an energy
window is defined by two boundaries regarded as limiting the penetration of
waves to the target beach. Windows are separated by diffracting jetties,
diffracting groins, nontransmissive detached breakwaters, and the tips of
transmissive detached breakwaters. Incident wave energy must enter through
one of these windows to reach a location in the nearshore area. It is
possible (and common) for a location to be open to waves from more than one
window.
Sand transport calculation domains
80. In GENESIS Version 2, shore-connected structures (jetties, groins,
and breakwaters) are assumed not to transmit wave energy, so that waves
entering on one side of such a structure cannot propagate to the other side.
Based on the concept of wave energy windows and non-wave transmissibility of
shore-connected structures, the shoreline is divided into what are called
“sand transport calculation domains.” These domains consist of segments of
the coast which are bounded on each side by either a diffractin~ shore -
connected structure or a model boundary GENESIS solves the shoreline change
equation independently for each domain, except for conditions such as sand
passing around or through groins, which allow exchange of sand across the
boundaries of the calculation domains. Examples illustrating wave energy

41
windows and transport calculation domains are given on psge 78 of the Techni-
cal Reference.
Multiple diffraction
81. If an energy window is bounded by two sources of wave diffraction,
one on the left (L) and one on the right (R), each will have an associated
diffraction coefficient, KDL and KDR, respectively, as shorn in Figure 8. The
internal wave transformation model calculates a combined diffraction
coefficient KD for the window as:

(17)

The properties of Equation 17 are such that (a) as K~L and K~R each
approach unity, the total diffraction coefficient approaches unity (situation
at large gap or far from diffraction sources in open water) , and (b) the total
diffraction coefficient approaches zero as either KDL or KB~ approach zero,
(situation deep inside a wave shadow zone). If an energy window is open on
one side, the diffraction coefficient for that side is set equal to 1.0.

Distance Alongshore

Figure 8. Diffraction coefficient for two sources

42
 Numerical Solution Scheme

I 82. Ii all information is available to use Equation 1 (shoreline change

I equation) , Equation 2 (longshore sand transport race equation) , and
Equation 10 (wave breaking criterion), the response of the shoreline to wave

I action can be calculated. Under certain simplified conditions, closed-form

mathematical solutions of Equation 1 can be found (see, for example, Larson,
Hanson, and Kraus 1987), but in order to describe realistic structure and
I shoreline configurations, including waves that vary alongshore and with time,
Equation 1 must be solved numerically. In a numerical solution procedure, the
distance alongshore is divided into cells of a certain width (called the grid
spacing), and the duration of the simulation is similarly divided into small
elements (called the time-step). If the grid spacing and time-step are small,
solutions of the governing partial differential equation (Equation 1) can be
accurately calculated by numerical solution of the finite difference equation.
83. Numerical accuracy refers to the degree to which the numerical
scheme provides an accurate solution to the partial differential equation
(Equation 1). Physical accuracy refers to the degree to which Equation 1 and
the associated input data represent the actually occurring processes.
Physical accuracy depends on the quality of the input data and the degree to
which the basic assumptions of shoreline change modeling approximate condi-
tions at the site. Good numerical accuracy does not necessarily imply good
physical accuracy. For a rapid numerical solution, the time-step should be as
large as possible. On the other hand, the numerical and physical accuracy
will obviously be improved if the time-step is small, since changes in the
wave conditions and changes in the shoreline position itself (which feeds back
to modify the breaking waves) will be better represented. Similarly use of
many small grid cells will provide more detail or improved numerical accuracy
in the shoreline change calculation than use of fewer but longer cel S, but
the calculation time increases as the number of cells increases.
84. The allowable grid spacing and time-step of a finite difference
numerical solution of a partial differential equation such as Equation 1
depend on the type of solution scheme. Under certain idealized conditions,
Equation 1 can be reduced to a simpler form to examine the dependence of the
solution on the time and space steps. The main assumption needed is that the
angle 6b~ in Equation 2 is small. Equation 1 can then be expressed as,

43
 ay = (~1 + IE2)~x2
a’y (18)
ZE

in which

2 KI
t?l= (H2CJ * (19)
(DB + D=)

and

K2 aH
f32 =
(DB + Dc) (
H2C~ COSOb~ 7X
)
~ (20)

Because Equation 18 is a diffusion-type equation, its stability is known to be

governed by the following condition:

At(al +e2) (21)

R~ =
(Ax)2

t
In the terminology of GENESIS, the quantity R~ is called the stability
parameter and referred to as “STAB” in the system interface.
85. Equation 18 (or the full shoreline change governing equation,
Equation 1) can be solved by either an explicit or implicit solution scheme.
If an explicit solution scheme is used to solve the diffusion equation, the
following condition must be satisfied:

86. If the value of R~ exceeds 0.5 in the explicit solution scheme at

any point on the grid, the calculated shoreline will show an unphysical oscil-
lation that will grow in time, alternating in direction at each grid point, if
R~ remains above 0.5. The quantities al and ez can change greatly alongshore
since they depend on the local wave conditions. Assuming that the grid cell
spacing is fixed by engineering requirements, a large wave height would

44
necessitate a small value of At. Although there are calculation strategies to

overcome this problem, it is inefficient to use an explicit solution scheme to

solve for shoreline position in a general case.
87. Equation 1, of which Equation 18 is a special case, can also be

solved using an implicit scheme in which the new shoreline position depends on
values calculated on the old, as well as the new, time-step. An implicit
scheme is more complex to code, but is stable for very large values of R~.
GENESIS uses an implicit solution scheme given by Kraus and Harikai (1983).
By numerical experimentation, it has been found that for values of Rs less
than approximately 10, the numerical error approximately equals the magnitude
of Rs expressed as a percentage. Above the value of 10, the error increases
at a greater than linear rate with Rs. GENESIS calculates the value of Rs at
each time-step at each grid point alongshore and determines the maximum value.
If Rs (or STAB) > 5 at any grid point, a warning is issued.

Grid System and Finite Difference Solution Scheme

88. In GENESIS, calculated quantities along the shoreline are dis-

cretized on a staggered grid in which shoreline positions yi are defined at
the center of the grid cells (“y-points”) and transport rates Qi at the cell
walls (“Q-points”), as shown in Figure 9. The left and right boundaries are
located at grid cell numbers 1 and N, respectively. In total, there are N
values of the shoreline position, so the values of the initial shoreline
position must be given at N points. There are N+l values of the longshore
sand transport rate since N+l cell walls enclose the N cells. Values of the
transport rate must be specified at the boundaries, QI and QN+l, and the
remainder of the Qi and all yi will be calculated. Since the Qi are a func-
tion of the wave conditions, wave quantities are calculated at Q-points. The
tips of structures are likewise located at Q-points. Beach fills, river
discharges, and other sand sources and sinks are located at y-points.

Lateral Boundary Conditions and Constraints

89. GENESIS requires specification of values for Q at both boundaries,

cell walls 1 and N+l, at each time-step. The importance of the lateral
boundary conditions cannot be overemphasized, as calculated shoreline

45
 BOUNDARY

AT CELL WALL 1
/ cON”T’ON

CELL
WALL
i
CEU
WALL

w
Y1 I i+l

HOREUNE BOUNDAUY
CONDITION
i Y* AT CEU WALL N+l

LI
I
Yi-1
ii
~Q,l -Q2 I
‘i Yi

I I
I Yi+l
J
y“

I I .7 ‘
i I 2i_l i+l

I I - ‘l– ‘il- -,
QN I Q“+l
A I A
1.
CELL NO. 1 2 i-l i i+l N x

Distance AJongshore / Grid Cell Number

Figure 9. Finite difference staggered grid

positions on the interior of the grid depend directly upon them. The most
ideal lateral boundaries are the terminal points of littoral cells, for
example, long headlands or long jetties at entrances and inlets. On the other
hand, engineering structures such as groins or seawalls may be present on the
internal domain of the grid. These barriers interrupt the movement of sand
alongshore and constrain the transport rate and/or movement of the shoreline.
These constraints, which function similar to boundary conditions, must be
incorporated in the simulation. In the following, commonly used boundary
conditions are discussed.
Pinned-beach boundary condition
90. In the process of assembling data for running GENESIS, it is
helpful to plot all available measured shoreline position surveys together to
determine locations along a beach that might be used as model boundaries. In
doing so it is sometimes possible to find a portion of the beach distant from
the project that does not move appreciably in time. By locating the model

46
 boundary at such a section, the modeled lateral boundary shoreline coordinate

1 can be “pinned.” Expressed in terms of the transport rate, zhis means,

Q, = Q, (23)

if implemented on the left boundary, and

(24)

if implemented on the right boundary. These relations can be understood by

reference to Equation 1; if A(J= O at the boundary, then Ay = O, indicating
that y does not change. The pinned-beach boundary should be located far away
from the project to assure that the conditions in the vicinity of the boundary
are unaffected by changes that take place at the project.
Gated boundary condition
91. Groins, jetties, shore-connected breakwaters, and headlands that
interrupt, partially or completely, the movement of sand alongshore may be
incorporated as a boundary condition if one is located on an end of the
calculation grid. If located on the internal domain of the grid, these
objects will act to constrain the transport rate and shoreline change,
automatically calculated by GENESIS. The representation is the same for both
cases , although it occurs in different places in the numerical solution
scheme.
92. The effect of a groin, headland, or similar object located on the
boundary is formulated in terms of the amount of sand that can pass the struc-
ture. Consideration must be given to sand both entering and leaving the grid.
For example, at a jetty located next to an inlet with a deeply dredged
navigation channel, sand might leave the grid by bypassing the jetty during
times of high waves; in contrast, no sand is expected to cross the navigation
channel and jetty to come onto the grid. The jetty/channel thus acts as a
selective “gate,” allowing sand to move off but not onto the grid. This
“gated boundary condition” was termed the “groin boundary condition” in
previous descriptions of GENESIS.

47
 1
i
93. Sand bv~assing. In GENESIS, two types of sand movement past a
structure are simulated: one around the seaward end of the structure, called
bypassing, and the other through and over the structure, called sand
transmission. Bypassing is assumed to take place if the water depth at the
tip of the structure DG is less than the depth of active longshore transport I
DLT. Since the shape of the bottom profile is known (Equation 6), DG is
determined from knowledge of the distance between the tip of the structure and
the location of the shoreline. However, because structures are located at
grid cell walls between two calculated shoreline positions, this depth is not
unique. In GENESIS the updrift depth is used.
94. To represent sand bypassing, a bypassing factor BYP is introduced,
defined as,

DG (25)
BYP=l-— (DGS DLT)
D’
LT

implying a uniform cross-shore distribution of the longshore sand transport

rate. If DG z D~~, then BYP = O. Values of BYP thus lie in the range
O s BYP s 1, with BYP = O signifying no bypassing, and BYP = 1 signifying that
all sand can potentially pass the position of the structure. The value of BYP
depends on the wave conditions at the given time-step, since DL~ is a function
of the wave height and period (Equation 4).
95. Sand transmission. A permeability factor PERM is analogously
introduced to describe sand transmission over, through, and landward of a
shore-connected structure such as a groin. A high (relative to the mean water
level), structurally tight groin that extends far landward so as to prevent
landward sand bypassing is assigned the value PERM = O, whereas a completely
“transparent” structure is assigned the value PERM = 1. Values of PERM thus
lie in the range of O s PERM s 1 and must be specified through the judgment of
the modeler based upon, for example, the structural characteristics of the
groin (jetty, breakwater), its elevation, and the tidal range at the site.
Aerial photographs are often helpful in estimating a structure’s amount of
void space (hence PERM) in relation to other structures on the model grid.
The optimal value of PERM for each structure must then be determined in the
process of model calibration.

48
 96. With the values of BYP and PERM determined, GENESIS calculates the
total fraction F of sand passing over, around, or through a shore-connected
structure as:

F= PERM(l - BYP) +BYP (26)

This fraction is calculated for each shore-connected (groin-type) structure

defined on or at the boundaries of the grid.
Seawall
97. A seawall, or, in general, any shore-parallel nonerodible barrier
such as a rocky cliff, imposes a constraint on the position of the shoreline
because the shoreline cannot move landward of the wall. Hanson and Kraus
(1985, 1986b) developed a procedure for calculating the position of the
shoreline constrained by a seawall that is consistent with shoreline response
modeling theory and has the following three properties:
a.
— The shoreline in front of a seawall cannot recede landward of
the wall,
b
-. Sand volume is conserved.
c,
— The direction of longshore sand transport at the wall is the
same as that of the potential local transport.

98. GENESIS first calculates longshore sand transport rates along the
beach under the assumption that the calculated amount of sand is available for
transport (the potential transport rate). At grid cells where the seawall
constraint is violated, the shoreline position and the transport rate are
adjusted. These quantities in neighboring cells are also adjusted, as
necessary, to preserve sand volume and the direction of transport. The
calculation procedure is complex, and the reader is referred to Hanson and
Kraus (1986b) for full details. Flanking of the seawall is not possible since
it would lead to a double-valued shoreline position at the same grid cell.

Beach Fill

99. Beach fill is a traditional and increasingly popular method of

shore protection and flood control, and nourished beaches also have value for
recreational, commercial, and environmental purposes. Fill is commonly placed

49
 together with the building of coastal structures such aS groin fields and
detached breakwaters. GENESIS is capable of represer!cing the behavior of
fills under the following assumptions:
I a. The fill has the same median grain size zs the native sand,
—
b.
— The profile of the fill represented i:.zhe model has the
equilibrium shape corresponding to its grain size.
c.
— The berm height of the nourished beach is the same as the
natural beach.

These assumptions are necessary because in GENESIS Version 2 the transport

parameters, shape of the equilibrium beach profile, and berm height are
considered constant for the entire beach being simulated.
100. Although beach fills are constructed with a certain cross-
sectional area, after a certain time period, typically on the order of a few
weeks to months, the fill will be redistributed by wave action to arrive at
the equilibrium shape of the beach. As a shoreline response model, GENESIS
interprets any added width of beach as conforming to the equilibrium shape.
For implementation of fill in GENESIS, the modeler must compute the total
added distance Ya~~ that the shoreline will be advanced. This distance is
known since the total volume of the fill equals the product of the depth of
closure plus berm height, alongshore length of the fill, and yadd. The
modeler must estimate if it is appropriate to remove a percentage of the total
fill volume that may be lost in fines. Such material is believed to be
carried offshore and out of the littoral system. GENESIS places the amount of
yad~ on the beach in equal increments Ay of shoreline advance along the speci-
fied length of the project per time-step over the user-specified construction
period of the fill. The amount Ay is added whether the waves are calm or
active.
101. The input change in shoreline position can also be negative,
resulting in shoreline recession instead of advance. This option is useful
for describing sand mining. In this case, the shoreline cannot recede
landward of a seawall.

Lon~shore Transport Rate: Practic21 Cons~?erations

102. The empirical formula used to calculate the longshore sand trans-
port rate in GENESIS is given by Equation 2. The transport rate is obtained

50
~~ a function of the waves and shoreline/contour orientation at each time-step

and at each grid point, except at pinned-beach boundaries. In this section

three important considerations are discussed that involve quantities composed

of transport rates as calculated from Equation 2. The topics usually

encountered in practical applications are:

a.
— Multiple transport rates as produced by multiple wave sources.
b
—. Derived transport rates (net and gross transport rates).
c.
— Effective threshold for longshore sand transport (calm and
near-calm wave events).

The first two items are treated within GENESIS in combination with input file
preparation (START and WAVES), and the third item is treated in wave data file
preparation prior to running GENESIS (see Part III).
Multiple transvort rates
103. Waves arriving at the shore are typically produced by several
independent generating sources. Long-period swell waves were probably
generated from distant storms, whereas the shorter period “chop” or sea waves
were produced by local winds. Indeed, the Wave Information Study (WIS)
hindcast provides information for both sea waves and swell. The modeler may
have to deal with even more than two wave sources. For example, for the
southern coast of California, three independent wave sources coexist during
parts of the year: Northern Hemisphere swell, local sea waves, and the
Southern Hemisphere swell, which arises from storms as far away as the
Antarctic Ocean. The Southern Hemisphere swell occurs mainly in the interval
from May through October and, in some years, may be the dominant transporting
wave component along the coast of the southern California Bight.
104. The situation of multiple wave sources is handled through the
assumption that each wave source gives rise to an independent longshore sand
transport rate. GENESIS then calculates a total longshore sand transport rate
at each grid point i by linear superposition. Let Qi,m be the transport rate
at grid point i produced by source m, of which there are M wave sources. The
total transport rate at i is,

Qi = ~Qi,m (27)
m-1

GENESIS uses this quantity to calculate shoreline change.

51
 105. The START file requires specification of the number of wave
sources (called “NWAVES” in the START file instead of M as above) . The file
holding wave data must similarly reflect this number by containing wave data
in sequence for the M sources at each time-step. On the basis of this
information, GENESIS calculates Qi at each time-step, automatically accounting
for the placement of beach fills, skipping over wave data for calm events, and
performing other “book-keeping” tasks that depend on the time-step in combina-
tion with the number of wave sources. Each wave source increases computation
time of the modeling system.
Derived trans~ort rates
106. In shoreline change modeling, it is convenient to analyze long-
shore sand transport rates and shoreline change from the perspective of an
observer standing on the beach looking toward the water. Two directions of
transport can then be defined (SPM 1984, Chapter 4) as left moving, denoted by
the subscripts tt, and right moving, denoted by the subscripts rt. The
corresponding rates Qlt and Qrt do not have a sign associated with them; i.e. ,
they are intrinsically positive; information on transport direction or sign is
contained in the subscripts. Use of these two rates is convenient for two
reasons: first, the terminology is independent of the orientation of the
coast and, therefore, provides uniformity and ready understanding independent
of the coast; second, the awkwardness of dealing with the sign is eliminated.
Two other very useful rates entering in engineering applications can be
defined in terms of these basic quantities, the gross transport rate and the
net transport rate.
107. The gross transport rate Q~ is defined as the sum of the transport
to the right and to the left past a point (for example, grid cell i) on the
shoreline in a given time period:

(28)

Thus , the gross transport rate does not have a direction associated with it
and is always positive. A navigation channel at a harbor or inlet and a catch
basin adjacent to a jetty will trap sand arriving from either the left or the
right. This quantity is estimated by computing the gross transport rate.

52
 108. The ~ transport rate Q. is the difference between the right- and

left-moving transport past a point on the shoreline in a given time period and
is defined as:

(29)

The net rate is a vector sum of transport rates, being positive in the
positive x-direction, and is the quantity needed to determine whether a
section of coast will erode or accrete. The rates Q used by GENESIS to
compute shoreline change through differences in transport rates alongshore are
net rates.
Effective threshold for lon~shore transport
109. Inspection of Equation 2 describing the longshore sand transport
rate shows that the first and dominant term has a dependence on breaking wave
height and direction as,

Q m (HJ5t2sin20b= (30)

because the wave group speed at breaking C~~ is proportional to (Hb)112.

Consider two breaking waves, one with height of 1 m and the other of 0.1 m,
which have the same angle at breaking. By Equation 30, the l-m wave will have
a transport rate 300 times greater than the O.1-m-high wave. Also, for the
same wave period and deepwater direction, a higher wave will break at a larger
angle, increasing the disparity in magnitudes of transport rates associated
with high/low waves and large/small deepwater wave angles.
110. A coast open to the ocean experiences a range of wave conditions
from calm to stormy. Because of the great amplification of the longshore
transport rate through the wave height and, to a lesser extent, wave angle, it
is reasonable to employ a cutoff or threshold to eliminate from the time
series the wave conditions that have negligible transport rates and are not
significant factors contributing to shoreline change.
111. Kraus, Hanson, and Larson (1988) introduced such a threshold to
eliminate in an objective manner wave events expected to produce negligible
longshore transport. In an example using hindcast wave data, they showed that

53
for a site on the Atlantic coast of the United States, as much as 86 percent
of the waves could be considered as effectively calm, eliminating the
necessity for performing the shoreline change calculation at the particular
time-step in which the waves identified as effectively calm appeared in the
time series.
112. The justification for the threshold criteria, first reported by
Kraus and Dean (1987), is based on the results of field experiments performed
on a medium sand beach. Complete descriptions of the experiments and listings
of the data are given in CERC technical reports (Kraus, Gingerich, and Rosati
1989; Rosati, Gingerich, and Kraus 1990). An analysis of the total measured
longshore sand transport rates showed a high correlation between the total
volumetric longshore sand transport rate Q and a quantity R called the
“longshore discharge parameter” (Kraus and Dean 1987), defined as,

R = VHbX~ (31)

where
V = mean speed of the longshore current, m/see

lf~= significant breaking wave height, m

X~ = width of the surf zone (distance between shoreline and breaker
line), m

Assuming a linear dependence exists between the immersed weight of sand

transport I and R, the following regression equation plotted as the straight
line in Figure 10 is obtained,

1=2.7(R-RC) (32)

in which the intercept Rc = 3,9 m3/sec is interpreted as a threshold value for

significant longshore sand movement, and 1 is expressed in N/see and R in
m3/sec. The quantity R, is called “Rcrit,” and a program for scanning wave
data and applying the transport threshold concept is &iven in Part III. For
Equation 32, the correlation coefficient squared was 0.76.
113. Equation 32 is valid for metric units. If American customary
units are used, the empirical value of R= = 3.9 m3/sec should be changed to

54
 25

20

15

10

0
o 2 4 6 8 10 12
R (M3/SEC)
Figure 10. Determination of Rcrit

138 ft3/sec. The value of Rc is expected to be revised as additional field

data become available.

Simulation in a Grid Subsection

114. In some applications, it is desirable to perform simulations of

the longshore sand transport rate and shoreline change for a subsection of a
long reach that is being modeled and is already contained in the various input
data files. Rather than revise the input files, GENESIS provides a convenient
means of allowing the user to isolate a portion of the total grid and associ-
ated data through specification of starting and ending cells other than 1 and
NN, respectively. This is done in the START file by specifying the cell on
the left side of the subsection as lSSTART and the number of cells N to be
included in the subsection.

55
 115. It is cautioned that the starting cell (ISSTART) and the ending
cell (ISSTART + N) of the subsection must be located in physically reasonable
areas to produce meaningful boundary conditions. (Of course, in defining the
subsection, the appropriate boundary conditions must be specified. ) In almost
all situations, lateral boundaries should be placed either at a long groin or
jetty or at a historically stable section of coast. It is recommended that
this option not be exercised until experience is gained in running GENESIS.

56
 PART III: POTENTIAL TRANSPORT RATE ANALYSIS

Overview

116. In this chapter, two computer programs are introduced. Because

these programs perform a distinct function and are not necessarily dependent
on the output of other programs, they are presented as independent analysis
functions. However, in Parts V and VI they will be embedded into complete
wave data analysis procedures.
117. One of the programs, SEDTRAN, calculates potential longshore sand
transport rates from an input time series of wave height, period, and direc-
tion. The other program, RCRIT, calculates the potential of an input wave
height, period, and direction event for producing significant longshore sand
transport. A summary description of the programs together with the input and
output files involved is provided in Appendix A. A listing of the program
source code for RCRIT and SEDTRAN may be found in Appendices B and C, respec-
tively.
118. The programs presented in this chapter are not essential for
operating GENESIS. However, if input wave data sets are analyzed using these
program functions, much of the uncertainty associated with the outcome (in
terms of the longshore sand transport rates) of a GENESIS study can be
eliminated, and the modeler will achieve greater understanding of the proper-
I ties of the input wave data. Furthermore , use of RCRIT will produce a
significantly decreased execution time required for a given GENESIS simula-
tion. The potential longshore sand transport rate program SEDTRAN was
developed to enable the shoreline modeler to estimate both a regional and
local or project-reach potential sediment budget prior to running the shore-
line change modeling system.
119. Throughout this chapter, it is assumed that a computer file
containing a time series of wave height, period, and direction is available
and resides in the default directory. It is also assumed that an executable
version of the program being discussed is available in either the default
directory or the PATH specified in the AUTOEXEC.BAT file. The programs RCRIT
and SEDTRAN as listed in Appendices B and C have been structured to read files
created by one of the following Corps of Engineers data retrieval systems:

57
 a.
— Coastal Engineering Data Retrie’~al System (CEDRS).*

b.
— Sea-State Engineering Analysis System (SEAS) (McAneny 1986).

Ho-<ever, a time series of wave height, period, z?.ddirection from any source
ma::be used if the “READ DATA” portion of the prsgrams is modified to read the
dzzz in the appropriate format. An example of Ch,isoption is given.

RCRIT

Introduction
120. The simulation of shoreline evolution using the numerical modeling
system GENESIS requires as input a time series of wave conditions that were
either hindcast or measured with a directional wave gage. These time series
often contain calm events (wave height, period, znd direction for a given
time-step) or events that may otherwise be physically irrelevant to the
analysis and are expected to produce effectively negligible longshore trans-
port. The purpose of RCRIT is to:
a.
- Evaluate each event in the input time series for its potential
to produce a longshore transport rate in excess of a critical
transport rate and to flag these events (in the output time
series) in such a way that the shoreline evolution model will
skip the time-step and continue the simulation.
b.
— Flag calm wave events in the time series.
c.
— Flag offshore-traveling wave events in the time series.

121. The result of such preprocessing of the input wave time series can
produce a significant reduction in execution time for a given simulation.
Figure 11 shows the required input and calculated output of the program RCRIT.
The empirical and theoretical background underlying item ~ above is contained
in Part II.
Calculation procedure
122. In the program RCRIT, an input significant wave height, period,
angle, and water depth are required to calculate the discharge parameter R
(Equation 31). This quantity is then compared with the critical discharge RC

* D. S. McAneny and D. L. Jones, “Coastal Engineering Data Retrieval System

(CEDRS), Jacksonville District, Regions 1 and 2, Florida Coastline,”
unpublished report, US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicks-
burg, MS.

58
 APPLICATION OF THRESHOLD CRITERION

INF. T PROGRAU NAME :,u TPu T

Wave Helgnt, Period,

,shoreline Orientation,
No. of wave types,

Figure 11. Threshold for longshore sand transport (RCRIT)

(taken as 3.9 m3/see). If the calculated discharge parameter is greater than

the critical discharge, then the wave event is written to the output time
series file, and the next wave event is processed. If the calculated dis-
charge is less than the critical discharge, a new event with a negative period
is written to the output time series. In addition, the input wave event is
written to another output file called the report file. When the end of the
input time series is reached (i.e., all input wave events were processed),
summary information including the number of wave events processed and the
number of wave events eliminated from the time series is written to the report
file.
123. The calculation flow in RCRIT is as follows:
a.
— Read input file header.
b
—. Read wave event from input time series,
c.
— Determine if event is calm or if wave is propagating offshore.
d.
— If wave event is calm or if wave is propagating offshore,
(1) write flagged wave event to output time series, and (2)
write wave event to report output file. Go to step ~.
e
—. Calculate the breaking wave height and angle with respect
to the local shoreline orientation or the general orientation
of the project reach (the baseline orientation), The
assumption of straight and parallel bottom contours is em-
ployed together with Snell’s Law and the concept of conserva-
tion of wave energy flux directed onshore.
f.
— Calculate the longshore discharge parameter R using
Equation 31.
~. Evaluate R >
— RL.

59
 h.
— Write wave event to output time series (flag if R < R~).
~. Write wave event to report output file if R < RG.

i. Repeat steps ~ through g until end of input file is reached.

k.
— Write summary information to report file.

Exar.ale applications
124. The utility of RCRIT will now be demonstrated through three
example applications using three different input time series. The input time
series are listed in Figures 12, 16, and 19. These time series were obtained
from three different sources as follows: SEAS (Figure 12), CEDRS (Figure 16),
and processed wave gage data from a slope array gage in southern California
(Figure 19).
125. Example 1. In this example, wave data as retrieved from the WIS
data base using SEAS are input to the program RCRIT. The data in Figure 12
are assumed to exist in the default directory in a file named WVSl?AS.DAT.
This file name is entered when the program prompts the user for the input file
name. This file must exist (it represents the input) either in the default
directory or in the directory path specified when the file name was entered;
if not, the program will terminate.
126, The program then prompts for the output file name; in this
example, the output file name SEASOUT is entered. This file must ~ already
exist in the working directory; if it is found in the directory, the program
will terminate. This procedure precludes unintentional overwriting of an
already processed time series. Note that the output file extension is ~
requested and should not be entered. The program will assign the extension
.CTS to all output time series. This naming convention was developed to help
the user keep track of the multitude of computer files that are generated in
the course of performing a shoreline change study. In summary, any file with
a .CTS extension represents a time series that has been processed by RCRIT.
127. The next prompt issued by the program requests the user to define
the input data format. The available options are: (1) SEAS, (2) OUTPUT FROM
i
ANOTHER WORKBOOK CODE (Header and Format similar to SEAS), (3) CEDRS, (4) OUT-
PUT FROM ANOTHER WORKBOOK CODE (Header and Format similar to CEDRS), and (5)
other. In the present example, the input time series was retrieved using
SEAS, so the value 1 is entered. The other options are discussed as they are
encountered.

60
 A2028 48
62030500 40 3 341 0 0 0 62030800 398 7 27 535 13 74
62030503 40 3 25 0 0 0 62030803 340 7 24 550 13 73
62030506 48 3 68 0 0 0 62030806 309 7 25 532 13 73
62030509 66 4 48 0 0 0 62030809 293 7 24 494 13 71
62030512 88 4 28 0 0 0 62030812 286 7 24 443 13 71
62030515 89 4 46 0 0 0 62030815 287 7 24 397 13 69
62030518 89 4 65 0 0 0 62030818 254 6 22 385 13 67
62030521 132 5 70 0 0 0 62030821 234 6 28 356 12 67
62030600 201 6 76 0 0 0 62030900 212 6 33 326 12 67
62030603 295 7 69 0 0 0 62030903 263 7 44 255 11 69
62030606 424 8 69 0 0 0 62030906 157 5 42 253 11 68
62030609 427 9 71 0 0 0 62030909 134 5 66 216 10 70
62030612 398 8 71 0 0 0 62030912 101 4 90 189 10 72
62030615 428 8 73 0 0 0 62030915 115 5 83 165 10 74
62030618 447 9 73 262 10 68 62030918 131 5 77 146 10 76
62030621 743 9 44 0 0 0 62030921 101 4 66 133 9 77
62030700 375 7 26 652 12 71 62031000 76 4 56 125 8 78
62030703 344 7 25 653 13 74 62031003 152 4 45 0 0 0
62030706 325 7 25 624 13 77 62031006 165 5 34 0 0 0
62030709 390 7 27 607 13 78 62031009 151 4 24 0 0 0
62030712 432 7 27 619 13 77 62031012 137 4 13 0 0 0
62030715 426 7 27 610 13 77 62031015 140 4 359 0 0 0
62030718 416 7 27 584 13 76 62031018 145 5 345 0 0 0
62030721 404 7 27 548 13 75 62031021 142 5 356 0 0 0

Figure 12. Time series of wave conditions from SEAS

128. The next prompt issued by the program requests the user to define
the input time series data type; the options available are (1) Phase I,
(2) Phase II, and (3) Phase 111. These data types refer to the three phases
of the WIS wave data hindcasts and are described in Corson et al. (1982) and
briefly in Part V. In this example, the input time series was extracted from
the WIS data base using SEAS for Phase II Station 28, so the value 2 is
entered.
129. Next, the program prompts for the water depth associated with the
input time series (except if Phase I data are specified, because Phase I
pertains to deep water). If Phase II data are specified and the station is
not in the Gulf of Mexico, the deepwater condition also applies, whereas if
the station is in the Gulf of Mexico, there is a depth associated with the
station (see Hubertz and Brooks 1989). If the deepwater condition applies (as
in this example), enter the value .999; otherwise, enter the water depth at
the specific hindcast station. The depth should be a positive value and
should be given in centimeters for format Types 1 and 2 and in meters for
format Types 3 and 4.

61
 130. The last prompt issued by the program before the computation
begins is a request for the user to enter the shoreline orientation in degrees
measured clockwise from north. In this example, a shoreline orientation of

54 deg was entered (corresponding to WIS Phase III Station 61). Figure 13

provides a schematic illustration of the shoreline orientation coordinate

system. This particular coordinate system is identical to the one used by WIS
in the Phase III hindcasts (Jensen 1.983a; Jensen, Hubertz, and Payne 1989).
131. The contents of the output files REPORT.RC and SEASOUT.CTS are
provided in Figures 14 and 15, respectively. The file REPORT.RC is a summary

information file and will be overwritten each time the program is executed.
Consequently, if the user wishes to save this information, the file must be

0“

315“ -l’J-

270” 90”

180”

Figure 13. Schematic representation of the shoreline orientation

62
 Summary of wave events eliminated from the input time series.

WAVE ELIMINATION
TYPE FLAG DATE HEIGHT PERIOD DIRECTION
-------- ------------------------- ---- ---- -------- -----------------
sea offshore traveling 62030500 40.0 3.0 341.0
swell calm 62030500 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62030503 40.0 3.0 25.0
swell calm 62030503 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea below threshold 62030506 48.0 3.0 68.0
swell calm 62030506 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62030509 66.0 4.0 48.0
swell calm 62030509 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62030512 88.0 4.0 28.0
swell calm 62030512 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62030515 89.0 4.0 46.0
swell calm 62030515 0.0 0.0 0.0
swell calm 62030518 0.0 0.0 0.0
swell calm 62030521 0.0 0.0 0.0
swell calm 62030600 0.0 0.0 0.0
swell calm 62030603 0.0 0.0 0.0
swe11 calm 62030606 0.0 0.0 0.0
swell calm 62030609 0.0 0.0 0.0
swell calm 62030612 0.0 0.0 0.0
swell calm 62030615 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62030621 743.0 9.0 44.0
swell calm 62030621 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62030700 375.0 7.0 26.0
sea offshore traveling 62030703 344.0 7.0 25.0
sea offshore traveling 62030706 325.0 7.0 25.0
sea offshore traveling 62030709 390.0 7.0 27.0
sea offshore traveling 62030712 432.0 7.0 27.0
sea offshore traveling 62030715 426.0 7.0 27.0
sea offshore traveling 62030718 416.0 7.0 27.0
sea offshore traveling 62030721 404.0 7.0 27.0
sea offshore traveling 62030800 398.0 7.0 27.0
sea offshore traveling 62030803 340.0 7.0 24.0
sea offshore traveling 62030806 309.0 7.0 25.0
sea offshore traveling 62030809 293.0 7.0 24.0
sea offshore traveling 62030812 286.0 7.0 24.0
sea offshore traveling 62030815 287.0 7.0 24.0
sea offshore traveling 62030818 254.0 6.0 22.0
sea offshore traveling 62030821 234.0 6.0 28.0
sea offshore traveling 62030900 212.0 6.0 33.0
sea offshore traveling 62030903 263.0 7.0 44.0
sea offshore traveling 62030906 157.0 5.0 42.0
sea below threshold 62031000 76.0 4.0 56.0
sea offshore traveling 62031003 152.0 4.0 45.0
swell calm 62031003 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62031006 165.0 5.0 34.0
swell calm 62031006 0.0 0.0 0.0

Figure 14. Example 1: Output file REPORT.RC (Continued)

63
 sea offshore traveling 62031009 151.0 4.0 24.0
swell calm 62031009 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62031012 137.0 4.0 13.0
swell calm 62031012 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62031015 140.0 4.0 359.0
swell calm 62031015 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62031018 145.0 5.0 345.0
swell calm 62031018 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62031021 142.0 5.0 356.0
swell calm 62031021 0.0 0.0 0.0

************ Summary of Operations ************

A total of 48 records was processed

o Sea events were flagged as calm

32 Sea events were flagged as offshore traveling
2 Sea events were flagged as below threshold
14 Sea events exceeded the threshold criterion

22 Swell events were flagged as calm

0 Swell events were flagged as offshore traveling
0 Swell events were flagged as below threshold
26 Swell events exceeded the threshold criterion

Figure 14. (Concluded)

renamed. It is suggested that the extension .RC be preserved in the new file
name for organizational purposes.
132. As shown in Figure 14, the output file REPORT.RC contains a
listing of the wave events that were flagged together with the elimination
code (the reason they were flagged) , the event type (sea or swell), and the
date and hour of the event. The output units are the same as those in the
original input time series. In this case, wave heights were read in centime-
ters, periods in seconds, and angles in degrees. At the end of the output
file REPORT.RC, summary information is given including the total number of
records processed, calm events encountered, offshore-traveling wave events,
events that fell below the threshold criterion for significant longshore sand
transport, and events that exceeded the threshold criterion. This information
is given for both sea and swell wave conditions if both appear in the time
series.
133. The output time series is written to the file SEASOUT.CTS (Fig-
ure 15). This file name (without the file name extension) was specified by
the user at run time. The file contains wave conditions for each event in the

64
.
A2028 48
62030500 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030503 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030506 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030509 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030512 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030515 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030518 89.0 4.0 65.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030521 132.0 5.0 70.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030600 201.0 6.0 76.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030603 295.0 7.0 69.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030606 424.0 8.0 69.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030609 427.0 9.0 71.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030612 398.0 8.0 71.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030615 428.0 8.0 73.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030618 447.0 9.0 73.0 262.0 10.0 68,0
62030621 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030700 0.0 -99.9 0.0 652.0 12.0 71.0
62030703 0.0 -99.9 0.0 653.0 13.0 74.0
62030706 0.0 -99.9 0.0 624.0 13.0 77.0
62030709 0.0 -99.9 0.0 607.0 13.0 78.0
62030712 0.0 -99.9 0.0 619.0 13.0 77.0
62030715 0.0 -99.9 0.0 610.0 13.0 77.0
62030718 0.0 -99.9 0.0 584.0 13.0 76.0
62030721 0.0 -99.9 0.0 548.0 13.0 75.0
62030800 0.0 -99.9 0.0 535.0 13.0 74.0
62030803 0.0 -99.9 0.0 550.0 13.0 73.0
62030806 0.0 -99.9 0.0 532.0 13.0 73.0
62030809 0.0 -99.9 0.0 494.0 13.0 71.0
62030812 0.0 -99.9 0.0 443.0 13.0 71.0
62030815 0.0 -99,9 0.0 397.0 13.0 69.0
62030818 0.0 -99.9 0.0 385.0 13.0 67.0
62030821 0.0 -99,9 0.0 356.0 12.0 67.0
62030900 0.0 -99.9 0.0 326.0 12.0 67.0
62030903 0.0 -99.9 0.0 255.0 11.0 69.0
62030906 0.0 -99,9 0.0 253.0 11.0 68.0
62030909 134.0 5.0 66.0 216.0 10.0 70.0
62030912 101.0 4.0 90.0 189.0 10.0 72.0
62030915 115.0 5.0 83.0 165.0 10.0 74.0
62030918 131.0 5,0 77.0 146.0 10.0 76.0
62030921 101.0 4.0 66.0 133.0 9.0 77.0
62031000 0.0 -99.9 0.0 125.0 8.0 78.0
62031003 0.0 -99,9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62031006 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62031009 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62031012 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62031015 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62031018 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62031021 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0

Figure 15. Example 1: Output file SEASOUT.CTS

65
input time series; however, events that were calm, propagating offshore, or
fell below the threshold for significant longshore sand transport were
assigned a height and angle of O and a period of -99. These wave conditions
will hereafter signify calm conditions in future computations that use this
file as input, and GENESIS will skip them. The wa~:e events that exceed the
threshold criterion for significant longshore sand transport are written in
the same units as those in the original input time series.
134. Example 2. In this example, a wave data set as retrieved from the
WIS data base using CEDRS is input to the program RCRIT. Figure 16 lists the
file WVC13DRS.DAT that is assumed to exist in the default directory. This file
name is entered when the program prompts the user for the input file name.
Note that the CEDRS time series differs from the SEAS time series (Figure 12)
in that three wave events and the local wind speed and direction are contained
in each record. The first two wave events are identical to those that would
have been retrieved if the SEAS system had been used and represent sea and
swell wave conditions. The third wave event represents combined wave condi-
tions where the height is given as the square root of the sum of the squares
of the sea and swell significant wave heights, and the wave period and
direction correspond to the higher wave (e.g., if the wave height of the sea
is larger, then the sea period and direction are given). The last two columns
of data in the CEDRS time series file are the local wind speed (in knots) and
direction (in degrees azimuth). The right-hand five columns of data in the
CEDRS time series are not required in the analysis procedures presented here
and are not discussed further or repeated in subsequent output files.
135. The output file name in this example is specified as CEDRSOUT.
The input data were obtained using CEDRS, so the value 3 is entered at the
input data format prompt. The input time series data type is specified as
Phase II (the value 2 is entered at the data type prompt), because the time
series was retrieved from the CEDRS data base for Atlantic coast WIS Phase II
Station 59.
136. The value -999 is entered at the depth prompt because the deep-
water condition applies to WIS Atlantic coast Phase II stations. The shore-
line orientation is specified as 348 deg (corresponding to WIS Phase III
Station 136). The program then performs the prescribed computations and
terminates.

66
WIS A2059 62010100 62010621 30.26 80.98
62010100 0.4 3.0 142. 0.0 0.0 0. 0.4 3.0 142. 12 132
62010103 0.9 4.0 149. 0.0 0.0 0. 0.9 4.0 149. 18 140
62010106 1.3 5.0 155. 0.0 0.0 0. 1.3 5.0 155. 24 148
62010109 1.9 6.0 214. 0.0 0.0 0. 1.9 6.0 214. 26 173
62010112 1.9 6.0 274. 0.4 6.0 257. 1.9 6.0 274. 27 199
62010115 1.9 6.0 277. 0.4 6.0 258. 1.9 6.0 277. 28 216
62010118 1.9 6.0 280. 0.5 6.0 259. 2.0 6.0 280. 29 233
62010121 1.9 6.0 297. 0.5 7.0 144. 2.0 6.0 297. 29 264
62010200 1.9 6.0 314. 0.5 7.0 145. 2.0 6.0 314. 28 294
62010203 1.9 6.0 40. 0.5 7.0 145. 2.0 6.0 40. 29 279
62010206 2.6 7.0 126. 0.0 0.0 0. 2.6 7.0 126. 29 264
62010209 3.8 7.0 164. 0.0 0.0 0. 3.8 7.0 164. 28 274
62010212 2.8 7.0 213. 0.0 0.0 0. 2.8 7.0 213. 26 284
62010215 1.6 5.0 302. 1.8 7.0 128. 2.4 7.0 128. 24 296
62010218 1.5 5.0 314. 1.4 8.0 128. 2.1 5.0 314. 22 308
62010221 1.5 5.0 308. 1.3 8.0 124. 2.0 5.0 308. 22 >13
62010300 1.5 5.0 303. 1.2 8.0 123. 1.9 5.0 303. 22 317
62010303 1.6 5.0 300. 1.1 8.0 123. 1.9 5.0 300. 23 314
62010306 1.7 5.0 297. 1.1 8.0 122. 2.0 5.0 297. 23 310
62010309 1.3 5.0 300. 1.0 8.0 122. 1.6 5.0 300. 19 307
62010312 0.8 4.0 303. 1.0 8.0 122. 1.3 8.0 122. 15 304
62010315 1.0 4.0 291. 1.0 8.0 122. 1.4 8.0 122. 14 294
62010318 1.2 5.0 280. 0.9 8.0 122. 1.5 5.0 280. 13 285
62010321 0.8 4.0 268. 0.9 8.0 122. 1.2 8.0 122. 12 274
62010400 0.5 3.0 257. 0.9 8.0 122. 1.0 8.0 122. 11 263
62010403 0.6 3.0 251. 0.9 8.0 122. 1.1 8.0 122. 13 257
62010406 0.7 4.0 245. 0.9 8.0 122. 1.1 8.0 122. 14 250
62010409 0.4 3.0 256. 0.9 8.0 122. 1.0 8.0 122. 12 255
62010412 0.3 2.0 267. 0.9 8.0 122. 0.9 8.0 122. 9 260
62010415 0.2 2.0 217. 0.9 8.0 122. 0.9 8.0 122. 10 221
62010418 0.2 2.0 166. 0.9 8.0 122. 0.9 8.0 122, 10 182
62010421 0.2 2.0 149. 0.8 8.0 122. 0.8 8.0 122. 10 159
62010500 0.4 3.0 131. 0.8 8.0 122. 0.9 8.0 122. 9 136
62010503 0.6 4.0 125. 0.8 8.0 123. 1.0 8.0 123. 11 130
62010506 0.8 4.0 120. 0.8 8.0 123. 1.1 8.0 123. 14 124
62010509 0.6 4.0 120. 0.8 8.0 123. 1.0 8.0 123. 11 124
62010512 0.4 3.0 120. 0.8 8.0 123. 0.9 8.0 123. 8 124
62010515 0.5 3.0 122. 0.8 8.0 123. 0.9 8.0 123. 13 126
62010518 0.8 4.0 126. 0.8 8.0 123. 1.1 8.0 123. 17 128
62010521 1.2 5.0 134. 0.8 8.0 123. 1.4 5.0 134. 20 134
62010600 1.6 5.0 142. 0.8 8.0 123. 1.8 5.0 142. 23 139
62010603 1.9 6.0 154. 1.0 8.0 123. 2.1 6.0 154. 23 155
62010606 1.7 6.0 166. 1.3 7.0 125. 2.1 6.0 166. 23 170
62010609 1.9 6.0 174. 1.2 8.0 124. 2.2 6.0 174. 23 174
62010612 2.6 7.0 183. 0.0 0.0 0. 2,6 7.0 183. 23 179
62010615 3.0 7.0 203. 0.0 0.0 0. 3.0 7.0 203. 26 193
62010618 3.1 7.0 223. 0.0 0.0 0. 3.1 7.0 223. 29 207
62010621 1.8 6.0 240. 1.3 7.0 129. 2.2 6.0 240. 30 215

Figure 16. Time series of wave conditions from CEDRS

67
 137. The contents of the output files REpORT.RC and CEDRSOUT.CTS for
this example are listed in Figures 17 and 18, respectively. The comments
previously made for Example 1 concerning the output files apply also to these
files .
138. Example 3. In this example, a time series from a wave gage is
input to the program RCRIT. The purpose of this example is to demonstrate how
to modify the source code for RCRIT (RCRIT.FOR) in order to use RCRIT with
wave gage data that may be available. The first step is to obtain a time
series of significant wave height, period, and direction. Gages do not
typically output these quantities directly, but these data are available after
postprocessing of the actual gage measurements. In this example, it is
assumed that such a time series has been obtained, and the wave gage data are
as shown in Figure 19. Each record in the wave gage time series has seven
fields of data; the first field is the year, the second is the month, the
third is the day, the fourth is the hour, the fifth is the wave height in
centimeters , the sixth is the wave period in seconds, and the seventh is the
wave angle representing the direction of wave propagation measured clockwise
from north.
139. At this point the user may take one of two paths, both of which
will (or should) lead to the same end. One alternative would be to write a
program that converts the wave gage time series to either the SEAS or the
CEDRS format. The other alternative is to modify the program RCRIT to read
the wave gage time series. This second alternative will be demonstrated here.
140. Before making any changes to the file (RCRIT.FOR), the user is
strongly recommended to copy RCRIT.FOR to another file name such as
RCRITWVG.FOR (where the letters “WG” denote that the program has been
customized to read the user’s specialized wave gage time series). In
RCRIT.FOR there are five comment blocks that denote areas where modifications
must be made. These comment blocks and the pertinent lines of FORTRAN code
are listed in Figure 20.
141. The header information for the wave gage data shown in Figure 19
contains a station identification number, the number of records in the file,
and the water depth in meters. These data together with the number of events
per record, the conversion factor for length, and the shoreline orientation
must be read and assigned to the appropriate variables as stated in the

68
 Summary of wave events eliminated from the input time series.

WAVE ELIMINATION
TYPE FLAG DATE HEIGHT PERIOD DIRECTION
--------------------- ---- ---- ---- ---- -------- -------- --------- ----
sea below threshold 62010100 0.4 3.0 1:+2.0
swe11 calm 62010100 0.0 0.0 0.0
swell calm 62010103 0.0 0.0 0.0
swell calm 62010106 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62010109 1.9 6.0 214.0
swell calm 62010109 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62010112 1.9 6.0 274.0
swe11 offshore traveling 62010112 0.4 6.0 257.0
sea offshore traveling 62010115 1.9 6.0 277.0
swell offshore traveling 62010115 0.4 6.0 258.0
sea offshore traveling 62010118 1.9 6.0 280.0
swell offshore traveling 62010118 0.5 6.0 259.0
sea offshore traveling 62010121 1.9 6.0 297.0
sea offshore traveling 62010200 1.9 6.0 314.0
.
k -.. ,
swell calm 62010206 0.0 0.0 0.0
swell calm 62010209 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62010212 2.8 7.0 213.0
swell calm 62010212 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62010215 1.6 5.0 302.0
sea offshore traveling 62010218 1.5 5.0 314.0
sea offshore traveling 62010221 1.5 5.0 308.0
sea offshore traveling 62010300 1.5 5.0 303.0
sea offshore traveling 62010303 1.6 5.0 300.0
sea offshore traveling 62010306 1.7 5.0 297.0
sea offshore traveling 62010309 1.3 5.0 300.0
sea offshore traveling 62010312 0.8 4.0 303.0
sea offshore traveling 62010315 1.0 4.0 291.0
sea offshore traveling 62010318 1.2 5.0 280.0
sea offshore traveling 62010321 ..,.n
0.8 4.0 L‘... ‘a’
,—
sea offshore traveling 62010400 0.5 3.0 -’. 7.
sea offshore traveling 62010403 ,-.,,
0.6 3.U
sea offshore traveling 62010406 0.7 4.0 ;!.:~;:~
sea offshore traveling 62010409 0.4 3.0 256.0
sea offshore traveling 62010412 0.3 2.0 267.0
sea offshore traveling 62010415 0.2 2.0 217.0
sea below threshold 62010418 0.2 2.0 166.0
sea below threshold 62010421 0.2 2.0 149.0
sea offshore traveling 62010609 1.9 6.0 174.0
sea offshore traveling 62010612 2.6 7.0 183.0
swell calm 62010612 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62010615 3.0 7.0 203.0
swe11 calm 62010615 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62010618 3.1 7.0 223.0
swe11 calm 62010618 0.0 0.0 0.0
sea offshore traveling 62010621 1.8 6.0 240.0

Figure 17. Example 2: Output file REPORT.RC (Continued)

69
 ***-A-******** Summary of Operat-ions ************

A total of 48 records was processed

O Sea events were flagged as calm

29 Sea events were flagged as offshore traveling
3 Sea events were flagged as below threshold
16 Sea events exceeded the threshold crireria
10 Swell events were flagged as calm
3 Swell events were flagged as offshore traveling
O Swell events were flagged as below threshold
35 Swell events exceeded the threshold criteria

Figure 17. (Concluded)

comment block shown under the heading Area 1 in Figure 20. Figure 21 shows
one way of accomplishing this task.
142. Several conventions appearing in the code presented in Figure 21
should be noted. First, the depth is given in meters, whereas the wave
heights are given in centimeters. To eliminate unit mismatch, the variable
DEPTH is immediately converted to centimeters. Second, because there is only
one wave event per record, the variable NEPR is set equal to one. A prompt
could have been issued for this quantity, but it is unlikely that the number
of events per record would change for a given wave gage, so the variable is
simply assigned. The length conversion factor variable CONVLEN is set equal
to 0.01 to convert length measures from centimeters to meters. A prompt is
issued for the shoreline orientation variable SHOANG to easily allow investi-
gation of multiple shoreline orientations that may exist within the coastal
area of interest.
143. The next section of code (Area 2 in Figure 20) that must be
modified performs the operation of reading each record of data in the time
series . In this particular time series, each record consists of the year,
month, day, time of day, and the wave height, period, and direction.
Figure 22 shows one way of accomplishing this task.
144. In this section the date is read into four temporary variables:
IYR (year), IMON (month), IDAY (day), and IHR (time of day). Then these
variables are packed into the variable IDATE in the same format used by the
SEAS and CEDRS data bases, This identical packing is done because it is
desirable to have the final output in either a SEAS- or CEDRS-type format.
This format will eliminate the requirement of modifying every code presented
in this workbook, saving labor and reducing opportunities for error.

70
 WIS A2059 62010100 62010626 30.26 80,98
62010100 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
#
62010103 0.9 4.0 149.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62010106 1.3 5.0 155.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62010109 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62010112 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62010115 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.!2 0.0
62010118 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62010121 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.5 7.0 144.0
62010200 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.5 7.0 145.0
62010203 1.9 6.0 40.0 0.5 7.0 145.0
62010206 2.6 7.0 126.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62010209 3.8 7.0 164.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62010212 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62010215 0.0 -99.9 0.0 1.8 7.0 128.0
62010218 0.0 -99.9 0.0 1.4 8.0 128.0

I
I
62010221
62010300
62010303
0.0
0.0
0.0
-99.9
-99.9
-99.9
0.0
0.0
0.0
1,3
1.2
1.1
8.0
8.0
8.0
124.0
123.0
123.0
62010306 0.0 -99.9 0.0 1.1 8.0 122.0
i 62010309 0.0 -99.9 0.0 1.0 8.0 122.0
I 62010312 0.0 -99.9 0.0 1.0 8.0 122.0
62010315 0.0 -99.9 0.0 1.0 8.0 122.0
62010318 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.9 8.0 122.0
62010321 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.9 8.0 122.0
62010400 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.9 8.0 122.0
62010403 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.9 8.0 122.0
I 62010406 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.9 8.0 122.0
62010409 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.9 8.0 122.0
62010412 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.9 8.0 122.0
62010415 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.9 8.0 122.0
62010418 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.9 8,0 122.0
62010421 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.8 8.0 122.0
62010500 0.4 3.0 131.0 0.8 8.0 122.0
62010503 0.6 4.0 125.0 0.8 8.0 123.0
62010506 0.8 4.0 120.0 0,8 8.0 123.0
62010509 0.6 4.0 120.0 0.8 8.0 123.0
62010512 0.4 3.0 120.0 0.8 8.0 123.0
62010515 0.5 3.0 122.0 0,8 8.0 123.0
62010518 0.8 4.0 126.0 0.8 8.0 123.0
62010521 1.2 5.0 134.0 0,8 8.0 123.0
62010600 1.6 5.0 142.0 0.8 8.0 123.0
62010603 1.9 6,0 154.0 1.0 8.0 123.0
62010606 1.7 6.0 166.0 1.3 7.0 125.0
62010609 0.0 -99.9 0.0 1.2 8.0 124.0
62010612 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62010615 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62010618 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62010621 0.0 -99.9 0.0 1.3 7.0 129.0

Figure 18. Example 2: output file CEDRSOUT.CTS

71
 SC(JO1 48 8.2
86 1 31 800 70 5 53 86 2 6 800 99 9 49
4 86 1 31 1400 68 5 53 86 2 6 1400 106 9 46
86 1 31 2000 79 9 53 86 2 6 2000 105 7 L3
86 2 1 200 102 11 53 86 2 7 200 75 7 47
86 2 1 800 152 20 53 86 2 7 800 71 20 52
86 2 1 1400 179 13 52 86 2 7 1400 72 20 44
86 2 1 2000 167 15 50 86 2 7 2000 100 20 40
86 2 2 200 142 15 53 86 2 8 200 66 7 46
86 2 2 800 130 13 52 86 2 8 800 104 17 46
86 2 2 1400 114 13 54 86 2 8 1400 78 20 43
86 2 2 2000 105 13 54 86 2 8 2000 95 15 39
86 2 3 200 109 13 54 86 2 9 200 95 17 38
86 2 3 800 113 15 53 86 2 9 800 78 15 34
86 2 3 1400 144 7 54 86 2 9 1400 82 13 39
86 2 3 2000 188 9 51 86 2 9 2000 90 13 39
86 2 4 200 126 15 53 86 2 10 200 75 13 40
86 2 4 800 124 15 53 86 2 10 800 66 13 36
86 2 4 1400 111 15 51 86 2 10 1400 68 13 41
86 2 4 2000 105 15 50 86 2 10 2000 64 13 41
86 2 5 200 99 11 50 86 2 11 200 63 15 42
86 2 5 800 80 13 50 86 2 11 800 57 13 43
86 2 5 1400 80 13 50 86 2 11 1400 51 13 47
86 2 5 2000 78 7 49 86 2 11 2000 44 13 46
86 2 6 200 110 7 49 86 2 12 200 41 15 50

Figure 19. Time series of wave conditions from a wave gage

145. The next section of code that must be modified (Area 3 in Fig-
ure 20) performs the operation of converting the sea wave conditions from the
coordinate system of the wave gage data to a coordinate system in which wave
direction varies between f90 deg of shore-normal. Figure 23 provides a
suggested way of accomplishing this task.
146. First of all, the user must have a clear understanding of the
coordinate system pertaining to the input time series. In this particular
wave gage time series, the wave direction is given with respect to north, but
represents the direction in which the wave is traveling. The wave direction
reported in WIS Phase I and Phase II data is also defined with respect to
north, but represents the direction from which the wave came. Because the
final output should be in either SEAS or CEDRS format, the first step is to
make this conversion, which amounts to adding 180 deg to the wave direction
and checking if the angle is greater than 360 deg and, if so, subtracting
360 deg. Now the wave direction represents the direction from which the wave
came. This procedure is shown as Step 1 in Figure 23. The next step is to
convert the wave direction to a coordinate system in which the wave direction

72
&
15 WRITE (*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to read your specific’
WRITE(*,*) ‘ input file header !‘
GOTO 35
~??????????????????? ??????????????????????? ??????????2’?????7’??7’
????????????
c In this section read (or prompt for) the input file header information
c and define the system of units used in the input data file, the depth
c corresponding to the time series, the shoreline orientation, and the
c number of records in the file record. Note, that each record may contain
c more than one event (e.g. H, T, & theta for sea waves and H, T, & theta
C for swell waves,etc.). Load the number of events per record into NEPR.
c Load the conversion factor for length into the variable CONVLEN.
C Load the depth (in meters) into the variable DEPTH.
c Load the shoreline orientation into SHOANG.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Area 2
ELSE
WRITE(*)*) ‘ This code must be modified to read your specific
&input time series !’
GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section read the wave event(s) from the input file.
c
C Read the height, period, and angle of the first wave event into
C CH, CT, and CTH.
c
C If there are two events per record, read second wave event height,
C period, and angle into SH, ST, STH.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF

Area 3
ELSE
WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to convert your spec
&ific’
WRITE(*,*) ‘ coordinate system to one with respect to shore-
&normal’
GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section convert the wave event angle from the coordinate system
C of the input file.
c
C Convert wave angle to an angle in degrees with respect to shore-normal.
C Angles counter-clockwise from shore-normal are positive.
C Angles clockwise from shore-normal are negative.
c -90 <= ANGLE <= 90
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF

Figure 20. Lines where RCRIT.FOR must be modified to read

wave gage time series (Continued)

73
 Area 4
ELSE
WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to convert your sp
&ecific’
WRITE(*,*) ‘ coordinate system to one with respect to shor
&e-normal’
GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????7?7???????? ?
C In this section convert the wave event angle from the coordinate system
C of the input file.
c
C Convert wave angle to an angle in degrees with respect to shore-normal.
C Angles counter-clockwise from shore-normal are positive.
C Angles clockwise from shore-normal are negative.
c -90 <= ANGLE <= 90
G??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF
Area 5
ELSEIF(INFOR.EQ. 5)THEN
WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to write your specific
&’
WRITE(*,*) ‘ time series output file header and wave event for
GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section write your specific time series output file header, and
C prepare to write the wave event(s) to the output time series file.
c
C The coordinate system of choice is one in which wave angles are with
C respect to shore-normal and reflect the direction from which they are
C traveling.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF

Figure 20. (Concluded)

varies between t90 deg from shore-normal. Because the wave direction now
represents the direction from which the wave came (with respect to north), the
procedure that converts WIS Phase I and II data can be used. The new wave
direction is loaded into the variable Al. Additionally, the procedure for
evaluating whether or not the wave is propagating offshore is again the same
as for WIS Phase I and II data.
147. Because the wave gage time series contains only one event per
record, no modifications are required in Area 4 shown in Figure 20. If the
input time series contained two wave events per record, the swell wave
condition would be converted in this section of code.
148. The next section of code (Area 5 in Figure 20) that must be
modified performs the operation of writing the processed output time series.

74
 —.

c ---
c new section for reading the wave gage time series header
c------
15 READ(99,*) STAID, NEVENTS, DEPTH
NEPR=l
DEPTH=DEPTH*IOO
CONVLEN=.01
WRITE(*,*) ‘ Enter the shoreline orientation (in degrees, clockwis
&e from north): ‘
READ(*)*) SHOANG
c---
c end of new section for reading the wave gage time series header
c ---
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to read your specific’
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ input file header !‘
c GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section read (or prompt for) the input file header information
C and define the system of units used in the input data file, the depth
C corresponding to the time series, the shoreline orientation, and the
C number of records in the file record. Note, that each record may contain
C more than one event (e.g. H, T, & theta for sea waves and H, T, & theta
C for swell waves, etc.). Load the number of events per record into NEPR.
C Load the conversion factor for length into the variable CONVLEN.
C Load the depth (in meters) into the variable DEPTH.
C Load the shoreline orientation into SHOANG.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Figure 21. New lines of code for Area 1, RCRIT.FOR

ELSE
c ---
c new section for reading the wave gage time series
c---
READ(99,*) IYR, IMON, IDAY,IHR,CH,CT, CTH
IDATE=IYR*10000OO+IMON*lOOOO+IDAY*lOO+IHR/100
c---
c end of new section for reading the wave gage time series
c---
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to read your specific
c &input time series !’
c GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section read the wave event(s) from the input file.
C Read the height, period, and angle of the first wave event into
C CH, CT, and CTH.
C If there are two events per record, read second wave event height,
C period, and angle into SH, ST, STH.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF
Figure 22. New lines of code for Area 2, RCRIT.FOR

75
 ELSE
c---
c new section for converting the wave gage coordinate system
c---
c STEP 1: convert wave angle from direction in which wave is traveling to
c direction from which wave is traveling
CTH=CTH+180
IF(CTH. GT.360)CTH=CTH-360
c
c STEP 2: Convert wave angle to an angle in degrees with respect to
c shore-normal. Angles counter-clockwise from shore-normal
c are positive. Angles clockwise from shore-normal are negative.
c -90 <= ANGLE <= 90
A1=SHOANG+90 -CTH
IF(A1.GE. 270.)A1=A1-360.
IF(A1.LE. -27O. )A1=A1+360
IF(A1.LT. -90. .0R.A1.GT.90)THEN
c
c waves are traveling offshore!
T1=-99.9
H1=O .0
A1=O .0
ICELIM=2
ICOFF=ICOFF+l
GOTO 40
ENDIF
c---
c end of new section for converting the wave gage coordinate system
c---
c WRITE(*)*) ‘ This code must be modified to convert your spec
c &ific’
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ coordinate system to one with respect to shore-
c &normal’
c GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section convert the wave event angle from the coordinate system
C of the input file.
c
C Convert wave angle to an angle in degrees with respect to shore-normal.
C Angles counter-clockwise from shore-normal are positive.
C Angles clockwise from shore-normal are negative.
c -90 <= ANGLE <= 90
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF

Figure 23. New lines ob code for Area 3, RCRIT.FOR

76
As stated ~~evio~s~y, it is recommended to write the time series in either

SEAS or CEDRS format. The code in Figure 24 will perform this task.
149. The first item written to the output time series file (file with

the .CTS extension) is the header. In this example, a decision was made to

Write the file in the format of a SEAS file. The first IF statement will
“rite the file header consisting of the station identification STAID and the

number of records in the time series NEVENTS if the present loop count is one
(i.e., if it is the first time through the calculation loop). Then the status
of the current event must be determined. The first step is to test the
threshold flag ICCRIT. The value of ICCRIT is set to one at the top of the
calculation loop and is subsequently set to minus one if the wave event falls

ELSEIF(INFOR. EQ.5)THEN
c---
c new section for writing the output file header and the processed
c wave event(s)
c---
IF(ICOUNT. EQ.1)WRITE(98, 700) STAID, NEVENTS
IF(ICCRIT. EQ.l)THEN ! satisfied RCRIT
IF(ICELIM. EQ.O)THEN ! not eliminated
WRITE(98,91O) IDATE,CH,CT,CTH
ELSE
WRITE(98,91O) IDATE,H1,T1,A1
ENDIF
ELSE ! RCRIT not satisfied
WRITE(98,91O) IDATE,H1,T1,A1
ENDIF
910 FoRMAT(lX, 18,3X,3F8.1)
c---
c end of new section for writing the output file header and the processed
c wave event(s)
c---
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to write your specific
c &’
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ time series output file header and wave event for
c &mat. ‘
c GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section write your specific time series output file header, and
C prepare to write the wave event(s) to the output time series file.
C The coordinate system of choice is one in which wave angles are with
C respect to shore-normal and reflect the direction from which they are
C traveling.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF
Figure 24. New lines of code for Area 5, RCRIT.FOR

77
below the prescribed threshold criterion. Therefore, if the value of ICCRIT
is not unity, a flagged wave event should be written to the output time
series . This operation is performed by the WRITE statement that follows the
ELSE statement in the outside IF, ELSE, ENDIF block. Otherwise, if the value
of ICCRIT is unity, then the wave event either exceeded the threshold criteri.
on or was flagged because it was determined to be a calm or offshore-
propagating event. The inside IF, ELSE, ENDIF block determines if the wave
event was flagged by testing the elimination flag (lCELIM). The value of
ICELIM is assigned the value zero at the top of the calculation loop.
Therefore, if the value of ICELIM is zero, then the wave event was not flagged
and exceeded the threshold criterion for significant longshore sand transport,
and the wave event is written to the output time series exactly as it was read
except that the wave direction now represents the direction from which the
wave came. Otherwise, a flagged wave event is written to the output time
series .
150. The program RCRITWVG is now capable of reading the input wave gage
time series, performing the appropriate computations, and writing the
processed output time series in a SEAS type format. The file RCRITWVG,FOR
must now be compiled and linked to obtain an executable program. Users must
perform these functions with their own software and equipment.
151. In the execution of the program RCRITWVG, the file name WVGAGE.DAT
is entered at the prompt for the input time series file name, and the file is
assumed to exist in the default directory. Otherwise, the appropriate path
together with the file name must be specified.
152. The program then prompts for the output file name; in this example
the output file name GAGEOUT is entered. Again, this file must ~ exist,
and, if it does, the program will terminate. The program will automatically
assign the extension .CTS to the output time series file.
153. The next prompt issued by the program requests the user to define
the input data format type. Because in this case the input format is neither
SEAS nor CEDRS, the value 5 is entered, indicating that a nonstandard input
format is being used.
154. The last prompt issued before the computations begin is a request
for the shoreline orientation in degrees measured clockwise from north. In
this example, a shoreline orientation of 135 deg was entered (corresponding to
the local shoreline orientation landward of the wave gage).

78
 155. The contents of the output files REPORT.RC and GAGEOUT.CTS are
~rovided in Figures 25 and 26, respectively. The file REPORT.RC is of the

same format and presents the same type of information as those ?reviously dis-
cussed. The file GAGEOUT.CTS contains the processed output tire series in a
SEAS-type format (i.e. , the date is given as an eight-character :nteger with
the first two characters representing the year; the third and fourth charac-
ters, the month; the fifth and sixth characters, the day; and the seventh and

eight characters, the time of day (on a 24-hr clock); the wave height is given
in centimeters, the period in seconds, and the wave direction in degrees with
respect to north and representing the direction from which the ‘~ave came) .
The file header is also in the format of a SEAS file, which does not allow the
inclusion of the water depth in the file header.
Summary
156. In principle, the program RCRIT flags only those wa~reevents that
are calm, propagate offshore, or will not produce significant longshore sand
transport. However, the threshold criterion is dependent on the breaking wave
angle with respect to the shoreline; therefore, those waves tha: have a
breaking wave angle of zero (the breaking wave crest is parallel to the
shoreline) will be flagged. Consequently, for a given shoreline orientation,

Summary of wave events eliminated from the input time series.

WAVE ELIMINATION
TYPE FLAG DATE HEIGHT PERIOD DIRECTION
----- ---------- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ---------- ---------- -
sea below threshold 86020714 72.0 20.0 224.0
sea below threshold 86020802 66.0 7.0 226.0
sea below threshold 86021108 57.0 13.0 223.0
sea below threshold 86021114 51.0 13.0 227.0
sea below threshold 86021120 44.0 13.0 226.0
sea below threshold 86021202 41.0 15.0 230.0
************ Summary of Operations ************

A total of 48 records was processed

O SES events were flagged as calm

O Sea events were flagged as offshore traveling
6 Sea events were flagged as below threshold
42 Sea events exceeded the threshold criteria

Figure 25. Example 3 output file REPORT.RC

79
 ,,.
Stool 4?5
86013108 70.0 5.0 233.0 86020608 99.0 9.0 229.0
86013114 68.0 5.0 233.0 86020614 106.0 9.0 226.0
86013120 79.0 9.0 233.0 86020620 105.0 7.0 223.0
86020102 102.0 11.0 233.0 86020702 75.0 7.0 227.0
86020108 152.0 20.0 233.0 86020708 71.0 20.0 232.0
86020114 179.0 13.0 232.0 86020714 0.0 -99.9 0.0
86020120 167.0 15.0 230.0 86020720 100.0 20.0 220.0
86020202 142.0 15.0 233.0 86020802 0.0 -99.9 0.0
86020208 130.0 13.0 232.0 86020808 104.0 17.0 226.0
86020214 114.0 13.0 234.0 86020814 78.0 20.0 223.0
86020220 105.0 13.0 234.0 86020820 95.0 15.0 219.0
86020302 109.0 13.0 234.0 86020902 95.0 17.0 218.0
86020308 113.0 15.0 233.0 86020908 78.0 15.0 214.0
86020314 144,0 7.0 234.0 86020914 82.0 13.0 219.0
86020320 188.0 9.0 231.0 86020920 90.0 13.0 219.0
86020402 126.0 15.0 233.0 86021002 75,0 13.0 220.0
86020408 124.0 15.0 233.0 86021008 66.0 13.0 216.0
86020414 111.0 15.0 231.0 86021014 68.0 13.0 221.0
86020420 105.0 15.0 230.0 86021020 64.0 13.0 221.0
86020502 99.0 11.0 230.0 86021102 63.0 15.0 222.0
86020508 80.0 13.0 230.0 86021108 0.0 -99.9 0.0
86020514 80.0 13.0 230.0 86021114 0.0 -99.9 0.0
86020520 78.0 7.0 229.0 86021120 0.0 -99.9 0.0
86020602 110.0 7.0 229.0 86021202 0.0 -99.9 0.0

Figure 26. Example 3: Output file GAGEOUT.CTS

a wave of significant magnitude could be flagged (essentially removed from the

time series) because the breaking wave angle is small and the longshore
discharge parameter falls below the threshold value.
157. Often, the local shoreline orientation at a particular area of
interest (project site) will vary through as much 10 to 15 deg. Therefore, a
wave that falls below the threshold criterion for one local shoreline orienta-
tion may exceed the threshold criterion for another, For instance, in Exam-
ple 3, if a shoreline orientation of 140 deg is specified, the wave events
shown in Figure 27 would be flagged. Note that only three wave events (occur-
ring on 86021114, 86021120, and 86021202) are common between Figures 25 and
27. Furthermore , if a shoreline orientation of 130 deg is specified together
with the Example 3 input time series, the flagged wave events will be those
shown in Figure 28. In this case, none of the flagged wa~’zevents are in
common. This is an important and perhaps not obvious aspect of the program,
and the user should exercise caution and perform sensitivity tests

80
 ,

WAVE ELIMINATION
TYPE FLAG DATE HEIGHT PERIOD DIRECTION
---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ----- ---- -
sea below threshold 86020120 167.0 15.0 230.0
sea below threshold 86021114 105.0 15.0 230.0
sea below threshold 86021120 99.0 11.0 230.0
sea below threshold 86021202 80.0 13.0 230.0
sea below threshold 86021108 80.0 13.0 230.0
sea below threshold 86021114 78.0 7.0 229.0
sea below threshold 86021120 51.0 13.0 227.0
sea below threshold 86021202 44.0 13.0 226.0
sea below threshold 86021202 41.0 15.0 230.0

Figure 27. Flagged wave events with a shoreline

orientation of 140 deg

(i.e., evaluate the range of local shoreline orientations within the project
reach) when applying RCRIT in an actual shoreline modeling project.

SEDTRAN

Introduction
158. The longshore sand transport rate Q is the volumetric rate of sand
movement parallel to the shore. Longshore transport is confined mainly to the
surf zone and, on an open coast, is produced predominantly by waves breaking
at an angle to the shoreline. It has been empirically determined that the
longshore transport rate is proportional to a quantity referred to as the
longshore energy flux, defined in terms of breaking wave conditions. The SPM
(1984) provides expressions for the longshore energy flux (SPM Equation 4-39)
and the longshore transport rate (SPM Equation 4-49). This method of estimati-
ng the longshore sand transport rate is oftentimes referred to as the energy
flux method and is dependent only upon breaking wave conditions. The actual

WAVE ELIMINATION
TYPE FLAG DATE HEIGHT PERIOD DIRECTION
---------------- ---- -------- ---- ---- ---- ---- -------- --------- ----
sea below threshold 86020720 100.0 20.0 220.0
sea below threshold 86021002 75.0 13.0 220.0
sea below threshold 86021014 68.0 13.0 221.0
sea below threshold 86021020 64.0 13.0 221.0

Figure 28. Flagged wave events with a shoreline

orientation of 130 deg

81
!-

physical situation may preclude such transport, for example, along beaches
where the sand supply is deficient. The longshore transport rate estimated
using the energy flux method should, therefore, be viewed as the potential
transport rate.
159. The program SEDTRAN uses the energy flux method together with
input wave conditions (significant wave height, period, and direction) from a
time series to estimate the potential longshore sand transport rate. Although
the shoreline change model GENESIS is much more sophisticated, accounts for
local shoreline orientations varying in both time and space, and simulates the
effect of coastal structures on the waves and longshore transport within the
project reach, the potential transport rates calculated using SEDTRAN enable
the user to develop a reasonable first estimate of the longshore transport
rate and sediment budget for the project reach.
Calculation procedure
160. In the program SEDTRAN, an input time series of significant wave
height, period, and direction together with a water depth and time-step
(duration of each wave event) is required to calculate the potential sand
transport volume moved alongshore. Potential longshore sand transport volumes
are calculated for each wave event in the time series. When the end of the
input time series is reached (i.e. , all input wave events were processed), the
left-directed, right-directed, and other transport volumes are divided by the
duration of the time series (in years), and the potential longshore sand
transport rate is the result.
161. The calculation flow in SEDTRAN is as follows:
a.
— Read input file header.
b.
— Read wave event from input time series.
c.
— Determine if event is calm or if wave is propagating offshore.
d.
— If wave event is calm or if wave is propagating offshore, go
to step ~.
e.
— Calculate the breaking wave height and angle with respect to
the local shoreline orientation or the general orientation of
the project reach (i.e., the baseline orientation). The
assumption of straight and parallel bottom contours is em-
ployed together with Snell’s Law and the concept of conserva-
tion of wave energy flux directed onshore.
f
—. Calculate the potential longshore sand transport volume.

82
 >

~. Based on sign, add to left-directed or right-direc~ed

cumula~ive transport volume.
h
-. Repeat ~ through g until end of input file is rezched.
~. Czlculate left-directed, right-directed, net, ant gross
potential longshore sand transport rates. Write zzansport
rates to output files.

162. Figure 29 shows the required input and calculated output of the

program SEDTRAN. Output from SEDTRAN is written to two files with the exten-

sions .PT and .PTR. The file with the .PT extension contains the calculated

results in two tables (Table 1, calculated potential transport volumes; and

Table 2, calculated Potential transport rates). The file with the .PTR

extension serves as an input data set for graphical visualization of the

calculated results and contains the calculated potential longshore sand
transport rates. More detailed discussion of these output files is given in
the examples that follow.
Examvle av~lications
163. The calculation of potential longshore sand transport rates by the
program SEDTRAN is demonstrated through examples using the time series given
in Figures 12, 16, and 19 as input. In addition to the SEAS, CEDRS, and wave
gage input time series, the output time series from the program RCRIT for the
wave gage (GAGEOUT.CTS, Figure 26) is used as input to SEDTRAN in Example 4.
164. Example 1. In this example, wave data as retrieved from the WIS
data base using SEAS are input to the program SEDTRAN. “The data in Figure 12
are assumed to exist in the default directory in a file named WVSEAS.DAT.
This file name is entered when the program prompts the user for the input file

I?JOTENTIAL LONGSHORE. SAND_TRANS_PORT !3&EE

INPUT PROGRAM NAME C-TPUT

Time Series of
Wave Height, Period,

Shoreline orientation

Figure 29. Potential longshore sand transport (SEDTRAN)

83
name . This file must exist (it represents the input) either in the default
directory or in the directory path specified when the file name was entered;
if not, the program will terminate.
165. The program then prompts for the output report file name; in this
example, the output file name S28-54 (indicating that ~he input is from the
SEAS data base for Station 28 and a shoreline orientation of 54 deg) is
entered. This file must not already exist in the default directory; if it is
found in the directory, the program will terminate. This procedure precludes
unintentional overwriting of previously created potential transport files.
Notice that the output report file name extension is w requested and should
not be entered. The program will assign the extension .PT to all output
report files. This naming convention is designed to aid in organizing and
maintaining the multitude of computer files generated in the course of
performing a shoreline change study and promote uniformity among GENESIS
users . Next, the program prompts for the plot data output file name; in this
example, the plot data output file name SEAS28 (indicating that the input came
from the SEAS data base for Station 28) is entered. This file may or may not
exist; if the file is ~ found in the default directory or specified path, it
will be created, and the calculated potential transport rate will be written
to it. However, if the file ~ found in the default directory or specified
path, it will be opened, and the new data (potential transport rates calculat-
i
ed during the present program execution) will be appended to the bottom of the
existing data (previously calculated potential rates). Again the file name
extension is not entered; the program will assign the extension .PTR to all
plot data output files. The two output files serve distinct purposes and
therefore have different names and extensions. The file with the ,PT exten-
sion holds the record of the estimated potential longshore sand transport
rates for a unique input time series and shoreline orientation. Hence, it is
recommended that the file name contain both the station number and the shore-
line orientation. In contrast, the file with the .PTR extension may contain
potential longshore sand transport rates for up to 20 different shoreline
orientations, which may be plotted together in a littoral transport rose.
Therefore, it is recommended that the plot data output file name contain only +
the station number.
166. The next prompt issued by the program requests the user to define
the input data format. As in RCRIT, the available options as they are listed

84
 II
are : (1) SEAS, (2) OUTPUT FROM ANOTHER WORKBOOK CODE (Header and Format
similar to SEAS), (3) CEDRS, (4) OUTPUT FROM ANOTHER WORKBOOK CODE (Header and
Format similar to CEDRS), and (5) other. In the present example, the input
.,
time series was retrieved from SEAS, so the value 1 is entered,
167. The next prompt issued by the program requests the user to define
ttieinput time series data type, and the options available are (1) Phase I,
(2) Phase II, and (3) Phase III. These data types refer to the three phases
of the WIS wave data hindcasts. In this example, the input time series was
extracted from the WIS data base using SEAS for Phase II Station 28, so the
value 2 is entered.
168. Next the program prompts for the water depth associated with the
input time series. If the deepwater condition applies (as in this example),
enter the value -999; otherwise, enter the water depth at the specific
hindcast station (note, this value should be positive and given in centimeters
if the input data format type is SEAS or meters if the input data type is
CEDRS ) .
169. The next prompt issued by the program is a request to enter the
shoreline orientation in degrees measured clockwise from north. In this
example, a shoreline orientation of 54 deg was entered (corresponding to WIS
Phase III Station 61). A schematic illustration of the shoreline orientation
coordinate system was given in Figure 13. As stated previously, this coordi-
nate system is identical to the system used by WIS in the Phase III hindcasts.
170. The last prompt issued before computations begin requests entry of
the time-step of the input time series (the duration of each wave event). The
WIS hindcasts have a time-step of 3 hr, so the value 3 is entered. However,
because the time-step used in the shoreline change model is typically longer
than 3 hr, this parameter is prompted for instead of being assigned.
171. The contents of the output files s28-54.PT and SEAS28.PTR are
provided in Figures 30 and 31, respectively. Table 1 in the file S28-54.PT
reports the cumulative estimated longshore sand transport volumes to the left,
to the right, net, and gross. Table 2 in the file S28-54.PT reports the left-
directed, right-directed, net, and gross longshore sand transport rates.
172. In addition to plot initialization data, the file SEAS28.PTR
contains the calculated left- and right-directed potential longshore sand
transport rates from which the net and gross rates can be obtained. The plot
initialization information is placed on the first two lines in the .PTR file.

85
 ESTIMATED POTENTIAL LONGSHORE SAND TRANSPORT RATES
INPUT TIME SERIES: WVSEAS.DAT

TABLE 1

Kix”.’E SAND TFWNSPORT VOLUMES (M**3)

TYPE LEFT RIGHT NET GROSS
------------- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ------------------------------ ---- ----

sea 0.00 0.436E+05 0.44E+05 0.44E+05

swell 0.00 0.28E+06 0.28E+06 0.28E+06
combined 0.00 0.32E+06 0.32E+06 0.32E+06

---- ----- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ----- ---- ----- ---- ---- ---- ----

TABLE 2

WAVE SAND TRANSPORT RATES (M**3/YEAR)

TYPE LEFT RIGHT NET GROSS
------------- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---------------------------- ---- ---- --

sea 0.00 0.27E+07 0.27E+07 0.27E+07

swell 0.00 0.17E+08 0.17E+08 0.17E+08
combined 0.00 0.20E+08 0.20E+08 0.20E+08

---- ----- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- --

SUMMARY OF TIME SERIES DATA

---- ---- ---- ---------------

The duration of the input time series is 0,02 years

NOTE: Since the duration of this time series is less than one year, the
estimates reported above may reflect a seasonal bias:

These estimates are based on a shoreline orientation of 54 deg

48 events were processed at a time step of 3 hr
O sea events were calm
22 swell events were calm

Figure 30. SEDTRAN example 1: Output file S28-54.PT

1
6
54 0.000 0.265E+07 0.000 0.170E+08 0.000 0.197E+08

Figure 31. SEDTRAN example 1: Output file SEAS28.PTR

86
The first line contains the number of X-axis values and, in this application,
represents the number of shoreline orientations contained in the file. The

second line contains the number of Y-axis values associated wizh each of the
X-axis values specified in the first line and, in this applics::on, represents
the number of types of longshore sand transport rates (for exar.ple left-
directed, right-directed, etc.). The graphics program that uses the .PTR file
as input and displays these data is introduced in Part IV.
173. Specifically, the first line in the file SEAS28.PTR (Figure 31)
contains the number “l,” indicating that the file holds potential transport
rates for one shoreline orientation. The second line contains the number “6,”
indicating that six transport rates are reported for each shoreline orienta-
tion. The third line contains seven fields of data. The first is a quantity
associated with the X-axis and represents the shoreline orientation. The
remaining fields represent quantities associated with the Y-axis and represent
the left- and right-directed potential longshore sand transport rates for the
sea wave component, the swell wave component, and the combination of the sea
and swell wave components, respectively.
174. Suppose the program SEDTRAN is run again with the same input time
series, the plot data output file name is again named SEAS28, and a shoreline
orientation of 50 deg is specified. Then, the updated SEAS28.PTR file would
be changed as follows: In the first line, the 1 would be changed to a 2,
indicating that the file contains potential transport rates for two shoreline
orientations ; the second and third lines would not be modified; and a fourth
line containing the shoreline orientation and the left- and right-directed
potential longshore sand transport rates for sea, swell, and combined wave
conditions would be added. Figure 32 contains a listing of the updated
SEAS28.PTR file after this SEDTRAN run.
175. Example 2. In this example, wave data as retrieved from the CEDRS
data base are input to the program SEDTRAN. The file named WVCEDRS.DAT
(listing provided in Figure 16) is assumed to exist in the default directory.
This file name is entered when the program prompts for the input file name.

2
6
54 0.000 0.265E+07 0.000 0.170E+08 0.000 0.197E+08
50 0.000 0.331E+07 0.000 0.205E+08 0.000 0.238E+08

Figure 32. Output file SEAS28.PTR after two SEDTRAN runs

87
PT

176. The program then prompts for the output report file name; in this
example, the output file name C59-348 (indicating that the input is from the
CEDRS data base for Station 59 and a shoreline orientation of 348 deg) is
entered. The program will automatically assign the exzsnsion .PT to the
output report file. Next, the program prompts for the ?lot data output file
name; in this example, the plot data output file name CZDRS59 (indicating that
the input was retrieved using CEDRS for Station 59) is entered. Again, the
program will automatically assign the extension ,PTR to the plot data output
file.
177. The next prompt issued by the program requests the user to define
the input data format. In the present example, the input time series was re-
trieved from CEDRS, so the value 3 is entered.
178. Next the program prompts for the input time series data type. In
this example, the input time series was extracted from the WIS data base using
CEDRS for Phase II Station 59, so the value 2 is entered.
179. Next, the program prompts for the water depth associated with the
input time series. If the deepwater condition applies (as in this example),
enter the value -999; otherwise, enter the water depth for the specific
hindcast station.
180. Next the program prompts for the shoreline orientation in degrees
measured clockwise from north. In this example, a shoreline orientation of
348 deg was entered (corresponding to WIS Phase III Station 136).
181. The last prompt issued before the computations begin request entry
of the time-step of the input time series (the duration of each wave event) .
In this example, the value 3 is entered because the input time series was
retrieved directly from the WIS data base using CEDRS and was not modified.
182. Listings of the output files C59-348.PT and SEAS28.PTR are
provided in Figures 33 and 34, respectively. The comments given in SEDTRAN
Example 1 concerning the output files apply to these files as well.
183. Exam~le 3. In this example, a time series from a wave gage is
input to the program SEDTRAN. The purpose of this example is to demonstrate
how to modify the source code for SEDTRAN (SEDTRAN.FOR) in order to use
SEDTRAN with wave gage data. The first step is to obtain a time series of
significant wave height, period, and direction from the measurement record.
For demonstration purposes, the time series used in the RCRIT Example 3 will
be used again in this example. A listing of the wave gage time series was

88
 ESTI.YATED POTENTIAL LONGSHORE SAND TRANSPORT RATES
INPUT TIME SERIES: WVCEDRS.DAT

TABLE 1

WAVE SAND TRANSPORT VOLUMES (M**3)

TYPE LEFT RIGHT NET GROSS
--------- --------- ---- ---- -------- ---- ---- ------- ---------- ---------- --

sea -0.93E+04 0.211E+04 -0.72E+04 0.11E+05

swell -0.15E+05 0.00 -0.15E+05 0.15E+05
combined -0.25E+05 0.21E+04 -0.23E+05 0.27E+05

----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- -

TABLE 2

WAVE SAND TRANSPORT RATES (M**3/YEAR)

TYPE LEFT RIGHT NET GROSS
---------- ---------- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- --------------- ----- -

sea -0.57E+06 0.13E+06 -0.44E+06 0.70E+06

swell -0.94E+06 0.00 -0.94E+06 0.94E+06
combined -0.15E+07 0.13E+06 -0.14E+07 0.16E+07

----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- - ----- -----

SUWY OF TIME SERIES DATA

-------- ---- ---- ---- -------

The duration of the input time series is 0.02 years

NOTE: Since the duration of this time series is less than one year, the
estimates reported above may reflect a seasonal bias.

These estimates are based on a shoreline orientation of 348 deg

48 events were processed at a time step of 3 hr
O sea events were calm
10 swell events were calm

Figure 33. SEDTRAN Example 2: Output file C59-348.PT

1
6
348 -0.567E+06 0.129E+06 -0.939E+06 0.000 -0.151E+07 0.129E+06

Figure 34. SEDTRAN Example 2: Output file CEDRS59.PTR

89
given in Figure 19. The recommended procedure for modifying SEDTRAN to read
the wave gage time series is discussed in the following paragraphs. Ano ther
alternative would be to write a program that converts the wave gage time
series to either the SEAS or CEDRS format. If this is the preferred
alternative , one should consult McAneny (1986) for SEAS format or the CEDRS
documentation for the regional CEDRS data base.
184. Before making any changes to the file (SEDTRAN.FOR), it is
strongly recommended that the file SEDTR.AN.FOR be copied to a file with
another file name such as SEDTRNWG,FOR (where the WG portion of the name
denotes that the program has been customized to read the user’s specialized
wave gage time series). In SEDTEUdi.FOR there are four comment blocks that
denote areas where modifications must be made. These comment blocks and the
pertinent lines of FORTRAN code are listed in Figure 35.
185. The header information for the wave gage data shown in Figure 19
contains a station identification number, the number of records in the file,
and the water depth in meters. These data together with the number of events
per record, the conversion factor for length, the time-step of the time
series, and the shoreline orientation must be read and assigned to the appro-
priate variables as stated in the comment block shown under the heading Area 1
in Figure 35. Figure 36 gives one way of accomplishing this task.
186. Several conventions appearing in the code presented in Figure 36
should be noted. First, the depth is given in meters, whereas the wave
heights are given in centimeters. TO eliminate unit mismatch, the variable
DEPTH is immediately converted to centimeters. Second, because there is only
one wave event per record, the variable NEPR is set equal to one. A prompt
could have been issued for this quantity, but it is unlikely that the number
of events per record would change for a given wave gage, so the variable is
simply assigned. The length conversion factor variable CONVIJIN is set equal
to 0.01 to convert length measures from centimeters to meters. Prompts are
issued for the variables SHOANG and DT to easily allow the investigation of
multiple shoreline orientations that may exist within the coastal area of
interest and time series with different time-steps.
187. The next section of code (Area 2 in Figure 35) that must be
modified performs the operation of reading each record of data in the time
series. In this particular time series, each record consists of the year,
month, day, time of day, and the wave height, period, and direction. Figure
37 gives one way of accomplishing this task.
90
.
‘!
Arsl
IS wRITE(*, *) ‘ This code must be modified to read your specific’
wRITE(*,*) ‘ input file header !’
GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
c In this section read (or prompt for) the input file header information
c and define the system of units used in the input data file, the depth
c corresponding to the time series, the time step of the events, the
c shoreline orientation, and the number of records in the file record.
c Note, that each record may contain more than one event (e.g. H, T, &
c theta for sea waves and H, T, & theta for swell waves, etc.).
c Load the conversion factor for length into the variable CONVLEN.
c Load the time step (hours) of the time series into DT.
c Load the depth (in meters) into the variable DEPTH. I
c Load the n~ber of events per record into NEPR.
c Load the shoreline orientation into SHOANG.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Area 2
ELSE
WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to read your specific
&input time series !’
WRITE(*,*) ‘ This program will now terminate’
GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section read the wave event(s) from the input file.
c
C Read the height, period, and angle of the first wave event into
C CH, CT, and CTH.
c
C If there are two events per record, read second wave event height,
C period, and angle into SH, ST, STH.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF
Area 3
ELSE
WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to convert your spec
&ific’
WRITE(*,*) ‘ coordinate system to one with respect to shore-
&normal’
GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section convert the wave event angle from the coordinate system
C of the input file.
C Convert wave angle to an angle in degrees with respect to shore-normal.
C Angles counter-clockwise from shore-normal are positive.
C Angles clockwise from shore-normal are negitive.
c -90 <= ANGLE <= 90
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF

Figure 35. Lines where SEDTRAN.FOR must be modified to read wave

gage time series (Continued)

91
 Area 4
ELSE
WRITE(*)*) ‘ This code must be modified to convert your spec
&ific’
WRITE(*)*) ‘ coordinate system to one with respect to shore-
&normal’
GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section convert the wave event angle fror.the coordinate system
C of the input file.
c
C Convert wave angle to an angle in degrees with respect to shore-normal.
C Angles counter-clockwise from shore-normal are positive.
C Angles clockwise from shore-normal are negitive.
c -90 <= ANGLE <= 90
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF

Figure 35. (Concluded)

c ---
c new section for reading the wave gage time series header
c---
15 READ(99,*) STAID, NEVENTS, DEPTH
NEPR=l
DEPTH=DEPTH*1OO
CONVLEN=.01
WRITE(*,*) ‘ Enter the shoreline orientation (in degrees, clockwis
&e from north): ‘
READ(*,*) SHOANG
WRITE(*,*) ‘ Enter the time step of the input time series: ‘
READ(*,*) DT
c---
c end of new section for reading the wave gage time series header
c---
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to read your specific’
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ input file header !‘
c GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section read (or prompt for) the input file header information
C and define the system of units used in the input data file, the depth
C corresponding to the time series, the time step of the events, the
C shoreline orientation, and the number of records in the file record.
C Note, that each record may contain more than one e~rent (e.g. H, T, &
C theta for sea waves and H, T, & theta for swell waves, etc.).
C Load the conversion factor for length into the variable CONVLEN.
C Load the time step (hours) of the time series into DT.
C Load the depth (in meters) into the variable DEPTH.
C Load the number of events per record into NEPR.
C Load the shoreline orientation into SHOANG.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Figure 36. New lines of code for Area 1, SEDTRAN.FOR

92

I
 c ---
c new section for reading the wave gage time series
c---
READ(99,*) IDUM,IDUM,ID~,IDuM,CH, CT,CTH
c---
end of ne’~section for reading the wave gage time series
:---
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to read your specific
c &input time series !’
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ This program will now terminate’
c GOTO 35
c~?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
c In this section read the wave event(s) from the input file.
c
c Read the height, period, and angle of the first wave event into
c CH, CT, and CTH.
c
c If there are two events per record, read second wave event height,
c period, and angle into SH, ST, STH.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF

Figure 37. New Lines of code for Area 2, SEDTRAN.FOR

188. In this section of code, the only information required by the

program is the wave height, period, and direction. Consequently, the date
information (in this case given in the first four consecutive fields) is read
into the dummy variable IDUM. Then the wave height, period, and direction are
read into the variables CH, CT, and CTH, respectively. If the time series
consisted of two events per record, then the wave parameters for the second
event would have been read into the variables SH, ST, and STH.
189. The next section of code (Area 3 in Figure 35) that must be
modified performs the operation of converting the sea wave conditions from the
coordinate system of the wave gage data to a coordinate system in which wave
direction varies between ~90 deg with respect to shore-normal. Figure 38
provides a suggested way of accomplishing this task.
190. First of all, it is important to have a clear understanding of the
coordinate system pertaining to the input time series. In this particular
case, the wave direction is given with respect to north and represents the
direction in which the wave is traveling. The wave direction reported in WIS
Phase I and phase II data is also with respect to north, but represents the
direction from which the wave came. Since the preferred coordinate system has
previously been defined, the first step is to convert the wave direction from
the direction in which the wave is traveling to the direction from which the

93
 ELSE
c---
C new section for converting the wave gage coordinate system
c---
c STEP 1: convert wave angle from direction in which wave is traveling to
c direction from which wave is traveling
c
CTH=CTH+180
IF(cTH. GE.360)CTH=CTH-360 .
c
c STEP 2: Convert wave angle to an angle in degrees with respect to
c shore-normal. Angles counter-clockwise from shore-normal
c are positive. Angles clockwise from shore-normal are negitive.
c -90 <= ANGLE <= 90
c
ZINC=SHOANG+90 -CTH
IF(ZINC.GE. 270. )ZINC=ZINC-360 .
IF(ZINC.LE. -27O. )ZINC=ZINC+360
IF(ZINC.LT. -9O. .OR.ZINC.GT.90)THEN .*
c
C Waves are traveling offshore! ---
c
ICFLAG=-1
ENDIF
c---
C end of new section for converting the wave gage coordinate system .
yi
c---
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to convert your spec j
c &ific’
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ coordinate system to one with respect to shore- i
c &normal’ ~
-3,
c GOTO 35 ~
c?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? 4
j
C In this section convert the wave event angle from the coordinate system .,
C of the input file.
c
C Convert wave angle to an angle in degrees with respect to shore-normal.
C Angles counter-clockwise from shore-normal are positive.
C Angles clockwise from shore-normal are negitive.
c -90 <= ANGLE <= 90
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF
Figure 38. New lines of code for Area 3, SEDTRAN.FOR

wave came; this conversion is accomplished by adding 180 deg to the wave
i
direction and checking if the angle is greater than 360 deg, and, if so, J

subtracting 360 deg. This procedure is shown as Step 1 in Figure 38. The
next step is to convert the wave direction to a coordinate system where the
wave direction varies between f90 deg from shore-normal. Because the wave
direction now represents the direction from which the wave came (with respect

94

i
to north), the procedure used to convert WIS Phase I and Phase 11 data can be

used. The new wave direction is loaded into the variable ZINC. Additionally,
the procedure for evaluating whether or not the wave is propagating offshore
is again the same as for WIS Phase I and Phase II data.
191. Because the wave gage time series contains only one wave event per
record, no modifications are required in Area 4 shown in Figure 35. If the
input time series contained two events per record, the coordinate system of

the swell wave condition would be converted in this section of code. A

procedure identical to that used for the sea wave condition could be used.
192. The program SEDTWG is now capable of reading the input wave gage
time series, performing the appropriate computations, and reporting the
results (estimated potential longshore sand transport rates). The file
SEDTRNWG.FOR must be compiled and linked to obtain an executable program.
Users must perform these functions with their own software and equipment. 4

193. In the execution of the program SEDTRNWG, the file name WVGAGE.DAT
is entered at the input time series file name prompt. Either this file must
exist in the default directory, or the path to the directory where the file
resides must be specified together with the file name.
194. The program then prompts for the output report file name; in this
example, the output file name WGI-135 is entered. This file name indicates
that the time series is for wave gage number 1 with a shoreline orientation of
135 deg specified. The program will automatically assign the extension .PT to
the output report file. Next, the program prompts for the plot data output
file name; in this example, the plot data output file name WGAGE1 (indicating
that the input is from wave gage 1) is entered. Again, the program will
automatically assign the extension .PTR to the plot data output file.
195. The next prompt issued by the program requests the user to define
the input data format. Because the input time series is from a wave gage, the
value 5 (corresponding the other option) is entered.
196. Next, the program prompts for the shoreline orientation in degrees
measured clockwise from north. In this example, a shoreline orientation of
i35 deg is entered (corresponding to the local shoreline orienzstion landward
of the wave gage).
197. The last prompt issued before the computations begin requests
entry of the time-step of the input time series (the duration of each wave

95
 event) . In this example, the value 6, which corresponds to the sampling
interval (in hours) of the wave gage, is entered.
198. Listings of the output files WG1-135.PT and WGAGE1.PTR are
provided in Figures 39 and 40, respectively. The conents given in other
SEDTPti examples concerning the output files apply to these files as well.
199. Example 4. The purpose of this example is to provide an indica-
tion of how the various programs presented herein were developed to work
together (i.e., output from one code providing input to another) and allow the
user to perform a complete analysis of the data sets that will ultimately
serve as input to the shoreline change model GENESIS. In this example, output
from’RCRIT Example 3, will be used as input to SEDTRM. Specifically, the
file name GAGEOUT.CTS is entered at the prompt for the input time series file
name.
200. At the prompt for the output report file name, the name GCI-135 is

entered. This file name denotes that wave gage data from gage number 1, which
has been processed through RCRIT, is providing the input time series and that
a shoreline orientation of 135 deg was specified. Likewise, the name WGAGECI
is entered at the prompt for the plot data output file name.
201. SEDTRAN then prompts the user for the input data format. Recall
that when RCRIT was modified to read the wave gage time series, a decision was
made to write the output time series in a format similar to that used in the
SEAS data retrieval system. Thus , the value 2 is entered, indicating that the

I input time series was generated by another workbook code and that a SEAS-type
header and wave event format was adopted. Since the input time series was
f
generated by another workbook program, a prompt requesting entry of the number
of events per record is issued. For this example, the value 1 is entered.
202. The program then issues a prompt for the input time series data
type. In this example, the input time series was originally from a wave gage;
however, since the time series was written in a SEAS-type format and the
coordinate system associated with the wave direction is with respect to north
the Phase II option should be selected. Thus , the value 2 is entered.
203. Next, the program prompts for the water depth associated with the
input time series. The water depth at the wave gage (820) is entered. Since
the input time series is in a SEAS-type format, the water depth must be given
in centimeters to be compatible with the wave heights, which are given in
centimeters. If a CEDRS-type format were chosen, the water depth would be

96
 RATES
ESTIMATED POTENTIAL LONGSHORE SAND TRANSPORT
INPUT TIME SERIES: WVGAGE.DAT

TABLE 1

WAVE SAND TRANSPORT VOLUMES (M**3)

RIGHT NET GROSS
TYPE
-.— LEFT
---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- - ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- - ---- ---- ---- ---- -

0.288E+04 -0.15E+05 0.20E+05

sea -0.18E+05

---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ----- ----- -----
----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ---

TABLE 2

WAVE SAND TRANSPORT RATES (M**3/YEAR)

RIGHT NET GROSS
TYPE LEFT
---- -------- -------------
---- ---- ---- ------------- ------ ------ ------ ‘--

0.88E+05 -0.45E+06 0.62E+06

sea -0.53E+06
-----------
----- ----- ----- ---------- ----- ------ ----- ----- ----- ----- ----

SUMMARY OF TIME SERIES DATA

---- ------------ ---- ---- ---

The duration of the input time series is 0.03 years

the
NOTE: Since the duration of the time series is less than-one year,
estimates reported above may reflect a seasonal bias.

These estimates are based on a shoreline orientation of 135 deg

48 events were processed at a time step of 6 hr
O sea events were calm

Figure 39. SEDTRAN Example 3: Output file WG1-135.PT

1
2
135 -0.53E+06 0.88E+05

Figure 40. SEDTRAN Example 3: Output file WGAGE1.PTR

97
 I

given in meters because CEDRS wave heights are in meters.

204. Next the program prompts for the shoreline orientation in degrees
1

measured clockwise from north. In this example, a shoreline orientation of

135 deg was entered (corresponding to the local shoreline orientation landward
of the wave gage)
205. The last prompt issued before the computations begin requests the
user to enter the time-step of the input time series (the duration of each
wave event) . In this example, the value 6, which corresponds to the sampling
interval (in hours) of the wave gage, is entered. The program then performs
the prescribed computations and terminates. Figures 41 and 42 provide
listings of the output files GC1-135.PT and WGAGEC1.PTR, respectively.
Summary
206. Examine the differences in the files WG1-135.PT and GC1-135.PT.
I
It is interesting to note that the estimated net and gross potential longshore
I sand transport rates are equal. However, in Example 3 (output file
,1
WG1-135.PT), 48 wave events were processed, whereas in Example 4 (output file
GC1-135.PT) potential transport rates were calculated for only 42 events
‘~
(6 events were calm). This means that 12.5 percent fewer events were pro-
I

cessed, but the estimated potential longshore sand transport rates are about
the same. Thus , there was a significant reduction in computational effort but
little difference in the final result. This example emphasizes the utility of
! the program RCRIT. Remember that in an actual shoreline change study, the
offshore time series would be significantly longer and the number of calcula-
tions performed for each wave event is orders of magnitude greater in the
shoreline change model GENESIS; consequently, the savings in terms of computa-
tional effort would be even greater.

I
98

1!
Ii
 ESTIMATED POTENTIAL LONGSHORE SAND TRANSPORT RATES
INPUT TIME SERIES: GAGEOUT.CTS

TABLE 1

WAVE SAND TRANSPORT VOLUMES (M**3)

TYPE LEFT RIGHT NET GROSS
----- ---------- ---------- ----- ----- ----- ----- ---------- --------------- -

sea -0.17E+05 0.282E+04 -0.15E+04 0.20E+05

----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- -

TABLE 2

WAVE SAND TMNSPORT RATES (M**3/YEAR)

TYPE LEFT RIGHT NET GROSS
---- -------- ------------ ---- ---- -------- ---- -------- -------------------

sea -0.53E+06 0.86E+05 -0.45E+06 0.62E+06

---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ----- ---- ----- ---- -

SUMMARY OF TIME SERIES DATA

---- ---- ---- -------- -------

The duration of the input time series is 0.03 years

NOTE: Since the duration of the time series is less than one year, the
estimates reported above may reflect a seasonal bias.

These estimates are based on a shoreline orientation of 135 deg

48 events were processed at a time step of 6 hr
6 sea events were calm

Figure 41. SEDTRAN Example 4: Output file GC1-135.PT

1
2
135 -0.53E+06 0.86E+05

Figure 42. SEDTRAN Example 4: Output file WGAGEC1.PTR

99
 PART IV: SHORELINE POSITION ANALYSIS

207. This chapter presents procedures for assembling, analyzing, and

preparing shoreline position data for input to GENESIS. The procedures,
computer programs, and a methodology for their use were developed to aid the
modeler in the manipulation and re-orientation of shoreline position data
after the initial task of digitizing the shoreline positions has been
completed. The modeler is responsible for performing the initial and usually
laborious task of digitizing shoreline positions and placing the results in a ~
computer file containing the positions in a horizontal coordinate system j
..f
(alongshore, X; across-shore, Y) referenced to a datum that will be used x

throughout the study. At that point, the programs discussed in this chapter
~
can be used.
‘4
208. The most common way of obtaining shoreline position data in .:
4
magnetic form is to digitize measured shorelines appearing on engineering
c
4
drawings or maps that were derived from either surveys or aerial photographs.
;
There are many commercially available software packages that can be used to $
A
facilitate the digitization of shoreline positions, such as AutoCAD, $
i
INTERGRAPH, CPS-3.* In fact, most CAD software has the capability of per- 2
)
forming the required operations to digitize shoreline positions from maps. ~

209. Another source for obtaining shoreline position data is through i

direct digitization of aerial photographs that are often more readily avail- %
able than shoreline position maps. However, the techniques used to rectify
aerial photographs are somewhat complex and include use of (a) a zoom transfer
scope that performs an optical rectification of the photographs in two
dimensions, (b) a numerical rectification procedure called rubber sheeting in
which the photographs are digitized with respect to a set of control points
referenced to a known coordinate system, and (c) an analytical stereo plotter,
a device that optically rectifies photographs in three dimensions.
210. Regardless of the technique used to obtained the digitized shore-
line position data, the programs presented in this chapter will perform their
prescribed operations on the data if the data are arranged in X-Y format and

* AutoCAD is a registered trademark of Autodesk, Inc. INTERGRAPH is a regis-

tered trademark of Intergraph Corporation. CPS-3 and CPS/PC are registered
trademarks of the Radian Corp. , a company of The Hartford Steam Boiler
Inspection and Insurance Company.

100
referenced to a known rectilinear coordinate system such as state plane
coordinates .
211. Three programs (SHORLROT, CUINTP, and WTSHO) are presented in this
chapter. The program SHORLROT rotates the digitized shoreline position data
into the GENESIS coordinate system and translates the origin as prescribed by
the modeler interactively. The program CUINTP cubically interpolates through
digitized points to obtain shoreline positions at regularly spaced intervals
specified by the user. The program WTSHO reads uniformly spaced shoreline
position data and writes shoreline position files in the format required for
input to GENESIS. The application of each of these programs is demonstrated
through an example having typical input data sets that were digitized using
both AutoCAD and CPS/PC. A summary description of the programs and the input
and output files involved are provided in Appendix A. Listings of the source
code for the programs SHORLROT, CUINTP, and WTSHO are given in Appendices D,
E, and F, respectively. Figure 43 provides a schematic illustration in the
form of a flowchart of the recommended program usage in the Preparation of
Shoreline Position Data analysis procedure.

Baselines, Shorelines. and Bathvm etries

212. The first step in the analysis of the shoreline position data is
specification of the model reach or area of interest. The model reach must at
a minimum encompass the project reach, but it often extends beyond the
immediate project to a location where suitable boundary conditions can be
established (as discussed in Part II and in the Technical Reference). The
analysis begins with specification of the model baseline and digitization of
the available shoreline position data with respect to the selected datum. As
previously stated, the task of digitizing the shoreline positions must be
performed by the modeler using available equipment and software.
213. The model baseline (a straight line usually located landward of
any historical shoreline) should be orientated along the general trend of the
coastal area of interest. Often it is convenient to draw this line on a map
or series of maps that encompass the project. If a nearshore wave transfor-
mation model such as RCPWAVE will be used as part of the overall project
study, the baseline for the RCPWAVE bathymetry grid must be identical to the
GENESIS baseline in orientation; otherwise an error (transparent to the

101
PREPARATION OF SHORELINE POSITION DATA

iN PUT CO MF.; TE7 APK :;A-i” : :J;3_-

Figure 43. Shoreline data preparation procedure

102
modeler) wfll be introduced in the nearshore wave direction data. This
t
sameness in orientation is an important factor and should not be overlooked.
(

SHORLROT

214. The program SHORLROT performs a coordinate system ro=ation and

origin translation using digitized shoreline position data as ir.:ut. The
coordinate system rotation is accomplished through application o: the follow-
ing equation, given here in matrix notation,

COStlrot -SINO=ot ‘dig . ~rot (33)

SIN6rot COS O,ot Y&g Yrot

where
0 rot = user-specified rotation angle

‘dig = digitized X value

Xrot = rotated X value

‘dig = digitized Y value

Y=Ot = rotated Y value

215. Translation of the origin is performed after the coordinate system

is rotated and amounts to independently adding a constant value zo all the X
and Y values (i.e., the user-specified values of XTRAN and YTRf2; is added to
all X and Y values, respectively).
216. The computational flow of the program SHORLROT is =: follows:
a.
— Read the digitized X and Y data into X and Y arrays (maximum
of 500 digitized shoreline points).
b
—. Compute the rotated values of the X and Y arra>-susing
Equation 33.
c
—. Compute the values of the X and Y arrays after origin
translation.
d
—. Perform a length units conversion if requested.
e
—. Write the rotated X and Y arrays to the output file.

103
 CUINTP

217. The program CUINTP accepts as input the rotated shoreline position
data in X and Y format and cubically interpolates the data at a fixed interval
speci~ied by the user. In operation, a cubic equation is fitted between
adjacent X-Y points, and then this equation is used as the interpolating
function between the X-Y points.
218. The computational flow of the program CUINTP is as follows:
a.
— Read the total number of X-Y pairs in the input file from
the file header.
b.
— Read the input data into X and Y arrays.
c.
— Compute the coefficients of the cubic spline polynomials
between each of the X-Y pairs and store them in a two-
dimensional array.
d.
— Compute the shoreline position (Y-value) beginning between
the first and second digitized alongshore positions
(X(1) < X < X(2)) and continuing at the user-specified
interval alongshore.
e.
— Write the interpolated shoreline position data to an output
file.

219. In the execution of CUINTP, it is recommended that the user

specify the minimum alongshore interval (cell width) expected to be used in
the GENESIS simulations. If this procedure is followed, one does not have to
keep track of multiple interpolated data files, thereby minimizing the poten-
tial for error in possible future analysis with a different alongshore
interl’al.

WTSHO

220. The program WTSHO reads the interpolated shoreline position data
created through the application of the program CUINTP and writes a shoreline
position data file in a format suitable for input to GENESIS. Specifically,
this program writes files that may be renamed to either SHORL.ext or SHORM.ext
and input to GENESIS.
221. The computational flow of the prog~am WTSHO is as follows:
a.
— Read the total number of X-Y pairs in the input file and the
cell width from the file header.

104
 b.
— Write (to the monitor) the input file cell width and prompt
for the required output cell width.
c.
— Calculate the output interval.
d.
— Read the interpolated shoreline position data into X and Y
arrays .
d.
— Write (to the monitor) the beginning X-value and prompt for
the required beginning X value.
e.
— Write the shoreline position data (Y-values only) to an
output file.

Example Armlication

Introduction
222. In this section, the three programs described previously are
demonstrated through example. The intent is to demonstrate recommended usage
of the programs that comprise the Preparation of Shoreline Position Data
analysis procedure, shown schematically in Figure 43. In this example,
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Nautical Chart
No. 11478 represents the hypothetical primary data source. Figure 44 is a
schematic depiction of this chart. For this example, the shoreline given on
this chart was digitized (using both AutoCAD and CPS\PC for the purposes of
obtaining two example input data sets), and the data were operated on accord-
ing to the procedures outlined in Figure 43 and detailed below.

Step 1: Digitizing
(user-preferred software)
223. The shoreline shown in Figure 44 was digitized using AutoCAD. The
shoreline data were output from AutoCAD using the “DXFOUT” command. The
output file created by AutoCAD is given the name “username.DXF.” A listing of
this output file is provided in Figure 45. The extension DXF associated with
the AutoCAD output file denotes a “Drawing Interchange” data file that allows
exchange of drawing information between various other CAD software or user-
written programs. These files contain all (or user-specified portions) of the
information required to define the graphic image (in this case the shoreline
position). The shaded values in Figure 45 are the digitized shoreline
position points. The workbook programs that operate on these values (specifi-
cally the program SHORLROT) require as input only the digitized X- and

105
q.,
,.I
,,

!
+
Y
State Plane
I

4
:+ 632,000
+

o. x
:/”
,’
—. ,/’ 116
? to

----------------- --------------------------------- -------+

--------- .-.-.--- -------------------- -------------------- ‘\.
‘\ ‘\\
‘\\~,

7
‘\\

I
‘\\
‘\\
‘\\
‘\\ ‘\\
+ + + \
~.

-N–

-26
\

+ +

ATLANTIC OCEAN
s
7 o.

I
: 624,000 GENESIS
+ /
+ +
l(alongshore)
,/

Figure 44. Nom Nautical Chart No. 11478

106
 o
ENDTAE
o
TABLE
2
DWGWR
70
0
0
ENDTIiB
o
ENDSEC
o
SECTION
2
BLWKS
o
ENDSEC
o
SECTION
2
ENTITIES
o
POINT
8
0
10
e~ggyjit$~
................ .
20
g@iz5&g
30 ““
0.0
0
POINT
8
0
10
!$wJ5j32!&~9
........ ,,.,.
......
20’’”

0<0
0
FOINT
8
0 0.0
10 0
ENDSEC
o
EOF

0.0
0
FOINT
8
0
10

0.0
0
POINT
8
0
10
KExifiiki.1
20

Figure 45. AutoCAD file; ~X1982.DXF

107
Y-values, as shown in Figure 46. Therefore, the user must extract these
values from the DXF file for input to SHORLROT. This procedure can be
performed either manually or through the use of a user-written program. In
this example, the shoreline position data given in Figure 46 will hereafter be
referred to as the file 1982XY — l.DIG and will be used as input to the program
SHORLROT in the following section.
224. Another commercially available package known as CPS/PC is well
suited for digitizing shoreline position data (and bathymetry data) . In fact,
CPS and AutoCAD can (if configured appropriately) operate as a shell program
(overlay) within each other. The slight advantage of CPS is that the digi-
tized shoreline position data can be output directly to a file that contains
only the X-Y-Z information associated with the digitized points. Figure 47
contains a listing of digitized shoreline position data obtained from NOAA
Chart No. 11478 as output from CPS/PC. The shoreline position data given in
Figure 47 will hereafter be referred to as file 1982XY_2.DIG and will be used
as input to the program SHORLROT in the following section.

Step 2: Coordinate
system rotation (SHORLROT)
225. The purpose of the program SHORLROT, as stated previously, is to
transform (rotate the coordinate system and translate the origin) the digi-
tized shoreline position data into the GENESIS coordinate system and convert
units, if requested. In the following paragraphs, the program SHORLROT will
rotate the two digitized data sets given in Figures 46 and 47. One limitation
of the program SHORLROT as listed in Appendix D is that a maximum of 500 digi-
tized X-Y pairs can appear in the input data file (filename.DIG). This

636807.99 1488357.6 633848.36 1483806.47 630900.98 1477743.0

636582.99 1488067.07 633639.79 1483168.54 630698.07 1477180.35
636356.59 1487756.47 633548.69 1482617.44 630505.62 1476586.1
636120.98 1487385.57 633582.32 1482357.18 630342.33 1476059.09
635844.1 1486977.35 631851.21 1481106.87 630174.2 1475396.64
635508.08 1486493.11 631753.45 1480432.01 629940.14 1474544.44
635195.42 1486012.53 631590.62 1479871.58 629764.92 1473911.98
634826.79 1485469.36 631432.3 1479347.98 629536.57 1473253.72
634502.24 1485001.99 631311.09 1478921.83 629261.21 1472611.54
634139.26 1484412.09 631139.54 1478388.02 629073.56 1471910.39
628922.67 1471331.74

Figure 46. Digitized shoreline data extracted from DXF file

(File: 1982XY_l.DIG)

108
 636816. .148839E+07 .000000 631851. .148111E+07 .000000
636662. .148819E+07 .000000 631841. .148086E+07 .000000
636501. .148797E+07 .000000 631780. .148056E+07 .000000
636363. .148777E+07 .000000 631703. .148026E+07 .000000
636222. .148757E+07 .000000 631625. .148000E+07 .000000
636103. .148736E+07 .000000 631532. .147970E+07 .000000
635989. .148720E+07 .000000 631447. .147940E+07 .000000
635862. .148700E+07 .000000 631353. .147908E+07 .000000
635763. .148685E+07 .000000 631249. .147875E+07 .000000
635635. .148668E+07 .000000 631157. .147846E+07 .000000
635416. .148634E+07 .000000 631047. .147817E+07 .000000
635271. .148613E+07 .000000 630923. .147784E+07 .000000
635119. .148592E+07 .000000 630794. .147749E+07 .000000
634963. .148568E+07 .000000 630662. .147712E+07 .000000
634781. .148542E+07 .000000 630559. .147679E+07 .000000
634632. .148521E+07 .000000 630473. .147648E+07 .000000
634506. .148502E+07 .000000 630358. .147614E+07 .000000
634371. .148481E+07 .000000 630228. .147564E+07 .000000
634258. .148462E+07 .000000 630072. .147502E+07 .000000
634142. .148444E+07 .000000 629873. .147439E+07 .000000
634041. .148426E+07 .000000 629765. .147401E+07 .000000
633927. .148402E+07 .000000 629633. .147351E+07 .000000
633814. .148373E+07 .000000 629490. .147315E+07 .000000
633717. .148345E+07 .000000 629344. .147281E+07 .000000
633634. .148318E+07 .000000 629232. .147246E+07 .000000
633568. .148288E+07 .000000 629115. .147207E+07 .000000
633543. .148258E+07 .000000 628996. .147168E+07 .000000
633573. .148237E+07 .000000 628911. .147131E+07 .000000

Figure 47. Digitized shoreline position data output from CPS/PC

(File: 19i2XY_2.DIG)

limitation can, however, be eliminated by increasing the value of MAX in the

parameter statement at the top of the program.
226. The program is executed by issuing the command SHORLROT at
the PC prompt. The program responds with a prompt requesting entry of the
input file name and extension. In this example, the file name 1982XY— I.DIG is
entered. This file must exist in either the default directory or the directo-
ry specified when the file name is entered. If the input file is not found,
the program will terminate with an error message. The extension .DIG is a
recommended name for all original digitized data sets.
227. Next, the program prompts for an output file name. The name
1982XY — 1 is entered. The program will automatically assign the extension .ROT
(indicating that the file contains rotated digitized shoreline position data)
to the user-specified output file name. If the output file already exists in
the default or user-specified directory, the program will ask if the file

109
should be overwritten. If a negative response is gi~’en,the program will
prompt for a new output file name.
228. The next prompt issued by the program requests entry of the
rotation angle. The desired rotation angle of 116 deg is entered in this
example. This angle is shown graphically on Figure 4-.
229. Next, the program requests the origin trzzslation distance first
in the X direction and then in the Y direction. The purpose of translating
the origin is to obtain positive X- and Y-values. Alrhough use of positive X-
and Y-values is not specifically necessary for correcc operation of the
shoreline change model GENESIS, positive shoreline positions (Y-values) and
alongshore positions (X-values) ranging from just slightly negative (left of
the GENESIS origin) and increasing to the end of the digitized reach have been
found to be more logical than either very large or negative values. Since at
this point in the analysis the user has no idea of the required origin
translations , the value O is entered at both the X and Y origin translation
prompts.
230. The program then reports (to the monitor) the coordinate system
rotation and origin translation that are about to be performed and requests
whether or not to continue. At a positive response, the computations are
performed, whereas at a negative response, the program prompts for new inputs
for the rotation angle and X and Y origin translation distances. In this
example, the value 1 is entered, indicating that the computations should
proceed.
231. The final prompt issued by the program requests whether or not a
length units conversion should be made. At a positive response, the program
requests whether to convert from meters to feet or feet to meters, whereas at
a negative response, the program writes the output file (in this example,
1982xY_l.RoT). A listing of this output file is provided in Figure 48.

........
“l&16.88Y53~80091.0-1616526
.:-:..,,,
:,:,.,:::,:,:.,,:.:.:
,,..
. .0 -80166 .0-1616147.0 -80233 .3-1615711.0 -80282.4
-1615222;’0 -80352 .3-1614640.0 -80442 .1-1614071.0 -80512 .4-1613421.0 -80605.6
-1612859.0 -80692 .4-1612169.0 -80760 .1-1611497.0 -80756 .1-1610833.0 -80663.8
-1610297.0 -80504 .2-1610078.0 -80359 .8-1608196.0 ‘J~~367.7-1607546.O -81159.7
-1606971.0 -81060 .4-1606431.0 -80973 .2-1605995.0 “-80895.3-1605440.0 -80815.4
-1604756.0 -80747 .1-1604161.0 -80682 .9-1603542.0 -80595 .3-1602997.0 -80511.1
-1602328.0 -80371 .8-1601460.0 -80208 .6-1600814.0 -80088 .8-1600123.0 -80005.5
-1599425.0 -79971 .5-1598712.0 -79832 .8-1598126.0 -79714.7

Figure 48. SHORLROT output file 1982XY_l.ROT (first run)

110
 232. The number of X-Y shoreline position points is given on the first
line of the output file 1982xY — I.ROT. The shaded quantities shohm in Fig-
ure 48 are the most negative alongshore distance (X = -1616885.0) and offshore
distance (Y = -81367.7) in the rotated shoreline position data. These values
will be used as reference points for specifying the origin translation.
233. Now that reference values for the origin translation are known,
the program SHORLROT is executed again. The inputs for the program prompts
are as follows:
a.
— Input file name: 1982XY_l.DIG
b
—. Output file name: 1982XY_l
c.
— Overwrite the file?: 1 (YES)
d.
- Rotation angle: 116
e.
— X-translation distance: 1616885.0
f.
— Y-translation distance: 81400.0

~. Continue?: 1 (YES)
h.
— System of units conversion?: 2 (NO)

234. The new output file 1982XY_l.ROT is listed in Figure 49. The
shaded X-Y pairs shown in Figure 49 indicate the digitized points on either
side of the inlet system in the project reach (Figure 44) . These points will
be of importance later in execution of the program WTSHO. The coordinate
system rotation and origin translation task is complete for the first data set
(1982XY_l.DIG).
235. Now the second data set (1982xY_2.DIG) will be operated on. The

program is executed by issuing the command SHORLROT at the PC prompt. The

responses to the program prompts are as listed below:

a.
— Input file name: 1982XY_2.DIG
b
-. Output file name: 1982xY_2
c.
— Rotation angle: 116
d.
- X -translation distance: 1616885.0
e.
— Y-translation distance: 81400.0
f.
— Continue?: 1 (YES)

J3. System of units conversion?: 2 (NO)

236. The output file 1982XY_2.ROT is generated by the program and a

listing of the file is provided in Figure 50. Again, the shaded values shown
in Figure 50 indicate the digitized shoreline positions immediately north and

111
I
31
-0.4 1309.0 359.4 1234.0 737.9 1166.7 1174.4 1117.6
~5~2.g 1047.7 2245.4 957.9 2814.4 887.6 3464.1 794.4
4(J26.5 707.6 4715.8 639.9 5387.6 643.9 6052.4 736.2
6537.6 895.8 @Qfij;?’::”lq#g.’”2 ~~~g.~,.,<;<
3p.!3 9338.9 240.3
9:: 4,0 339.6 10454.0 426.8 10890.1 504.7 11445.3 584.6
12:29.4 652.9 12724.1 717.1 13342.6 804.7 13887.9 888.9
l~;:~.() 1028.2 15425.5 1191.4 16070.8 1311.2 16762.5 1394.5
17L50.5 1428.5 18172.9 1567.2 18759.1 1685.3

Figure 49. SHORLROT output file 1982XY_l.ROT (second run)

south of the inlet. This completes Step 2 of the preparation of shoreline

data procedure for both input data sets,

Step 3: Cubic spline

interpolation (CUINTP)
237. This step involves interpolation of the digitized shoreline
position data sets that have already been rotated to the GENESIS coordinate
system. The program CUINTP performs this task and accepts as input the output
file generated by the program SHORLROT. Other data files may be input to the
program CUINTP provided that the file name extension is .ROT and that the data
points in the file are formatted as follows:
a
—. Line 1: number of X-Y pairs (NPTS).
b Lines 2 to end of file (EOF):
–“ X(1), Y(1),X(2),Y(2) ,...,X(NPTS),Y(NPTS); FORMAT (8(F1O.1)

56
-32.9 1302.0 214.4 1251.2 482.6 1202.9 722.9 1166.6
964.5 1127.5 1205.4 1112.6 1399.1 1080.3 1634.5 1053.8
1812.8 1030.6 2021.6 990.0 2423.3 942.3 2675.6 904.0
2931.0 859.5 3215.0 824.4 3528.5 774.9 3782.6 733.0
4008.6 703.0 4256.5 673.7 4476.8 655.5 4689.5 630.1
4895.5 618.3 5161.1 621.0 5471.5 646.5 5765.6 682.1
6044.6 725.9 6343.1 798.1 6623.9 907.1
8915.9 131.3 9212.3 208.0
10093.9 362.1 10400.9 417.3 10729.6 473.0
11071.9 524.3 11372.9 568.7 11681.6 596.9 12032.6 630.1
12403.9 667.6 12794.1 711.2 13136.0 763.3 13452.3 821.8
13:p5,3 867.5 14314.6 969.9 14940.4 1101.5 15593.8 1198.8
15982.6 1268.3 16489.9 1368.9 16876.3 1398.1 17245.8 1415.9
17609.4 1468.7 18011.3 1534.5 18413.9 1598.5 18783.8 1684.3

Figure 50. SHORLROT output file 1982xY— 2.RoT

112
 238. The program is executed by issuing the command CUINTP at the PC
prompt. The program responds with a prompt for the input file name; for this
example, the name 1982XY — 1 was entered. Note that the file name extension was
not requested and should not be entered. All files input to CUINTP must have
the extension .ROT.
239. Next , the program prompts for the output file name. For this
example, the name 1982XY— 1 is entered. Again, the file name extension should
not be entered, because the program will automatically append the extension
.ISH (indicating that the file contains interpolated shoreline position data)
to the user-specified output file name.
240. The final prompt issued by the program before the data are
interpolated is the required cell spacing. For this example, the value 50 is
entered. The program CUINTP first computes cubic polynomial interpolation
functions for each adjacent shoreline data pair. It is important, therefore,
that the digitized data in the alongshore direction increase sequentially from
the beginning of the input file to the end. Then the interpolating functions
are used to compute the X-Y- shoreline positions at the user-specified
alongshore spacing. Output from the program are written to the user-specified
file name with the extension .ISH (in this example 1982XY_l.ISH). This output
file has the following format:
a.
— Line 1: number of X-Y pairs (NPTS) and cell spacing (DX).
b Lines 2 to end of file (EOF):
‘“ x(1),Y(1),x(2),Y(2), ....X(NPTS) ,Y(NPTS);
FORMAT (5(1X,F6.0,1X,F8.1))

241. The file 1982XY_l.ISH is listed in Figure 51. The shaded X-Y
pairs shown in Figure 51 correspond to the nearest interpolated shoreline
positions just north and south of the inlet. This completes the shoreline
position interpolation task for the first data set (1982XY_l.ROT).
242. Now, the second data set (1982XY_2.ROT) will be operated on. The
program is executed by issuing the command CUINTP at the PC prompt. The
responses to the program prompts are as listed below:
a.
— Input file name: 1982XY_2
b
—. Output file name: 1982XY_2
c.
— Required cell spacing: 50

113
 ,i,
t“

375 50.0000
o. 1308.9 50. 1298.3 100. 1287.8 150. 1277.2 200. 1266.8
250. 1256.4 300. 1246.1 350. 1235.9 400. 1225.9 450. 1216.0
500. 1206.4 550. 1197.2 600. 1188.4 650. 1180.0 700. 1172.2
750. 1165.0 800. 1158.5 850. 1152.4 900. 1146.8 950. 1141.5
1000, 1136.3 1050. 1131.1 1100. 1125.8 1150. 1120.4 1200. 1114.6
1250. 1108.4 1300. 1101.9 1350. 1095.1 1400. 1088.0 1450. 1080.7
1500. 1073.2 1550. 1065.5 1600. 1057.7 1650. 1049.7 1700. 1041.8
1750. 1033.7 1800. 1025.7 1850. 1017.7 1900. 1009.7 1950. 1001.8
2000, 994.0 2050. 986.3 2100. 978.7 2150. 971.4 2200. 964.2
2250. 957.3 2300. 950.6 2350. 944.1 2400. 937.8 2450. 931.6
2500. 925.6 2550. 919.6 2600. 913.6 2650. 907.7 2700. 901.7
2750. 895.6 2800. 889.4 2850. 883.1 2900. 876.6 2950. 870.0
3000. 863.2 3050. 856.3 3100. 849.2 3150. 842.0 3200. 834.7
3250. 827.3 3300. 819.8 3350. 812.2 3400. 804.4 3450. 796.6
3500. 788.7 3550. 780.7 3600. 772.7 3650. 764.7 3700. 756.8
3750. 748.8 3800. 741.0 3850. 733.3 3900. 725.8 3950. 718.4
4000. 711.3 4050. 704.4 4100. 697.8 4150. 691.4 4200. 685.3
4250. 679.5 4300. 674.0 4350. 668.8 4400. 663.9 4450. 659.3
4500. 655.0 4550. 650.9 4600. 647.2 4650. 643.9 4700. 640.8
4750. 638.1 4800. 635.7 4850. 633.7 4900. 632.1 4950. 630.9
5000. 630.2 5050. 630.0 5100. 630.3 5150. 631.2 5200. 632.7
5250. 634.8 5300. 637.5 5350. 640.9 5400. 645.0 5450. 649.8
5500. 655.2 5550. 661.2 5600. 667.7 5650. 674.6 5700. 681.8
5750. 689.3 5800. 697.0 5850. 704.8 5900. 712.7 5950. 720.5
6000. 728.3 6050. 735.8 6100. 743.2 6150. 750.8 6200. 759.1
6250. 768.4 6300. 779.4 6350. 792.3 6400. 807.8 6450. 826.2
6500. 848.0 6550. 873.7 6600. 903.7 6650. 937.5 6700. 972.6
6750. 1060.2 6900. 1077.3 6950. 1088.1
7000. 1085.7 7150. 1074.4 7200. 1058.4
7250. 1038.1 7300. 1013.8 7350. 985.8 7400. 954.4 7450. 920.0
7500. 882.8 7550. 843.3 7600. 801.7 7650. 758.4 7700. 713.7
7750. 668.0 7800. 621.5 7850. 574.5 7900. 527.5 7950. 480.8
8000. 434.6 8050. 389.3 8100. 345.2 8150. 302.7 8200. 262.1
8250. 223.7 8300. 187.8 8350. 154.9 8400. 125.1 8450. 98.8
8500. 76.4 8550. 58.2 8600. 44.5 8650.
8750. 33.5 8800. 39.7 8850. 50.1 8900.
9000. 99.4 9050. 120.0 9100. 141.6 9150. 163.7 9200. 185.5
9250. 206.6 9300. 226.3 9350. 244.0 9400. 259.4 9450. 272.6
9500. 283.9 9550. 293.5 9600. 301.9 9650. 309.1 9700. 315.5
9750. 321.3 9800. 326.8 9850. 332.3 9900. 337.9 9950. 344.1
10000. 350.7 10050. 357.9 10100. 365.5 10150. 373.4 10200. 381.6
10250. 390.2 10300. 398.9 10350. 407.9 10400. 416.9 10450. 426.1
10500. 435.2 10550. 444.4 10600. 453.5 10650. 462.6 10700. 471.6
10750. 480.5 10800. 489.3 10850. 497.9 10900. 506.4 10950. 514.6
11000. 522.6 11050. 530.5 11100. 538.1 11150. 545.5 11200. 552.7
11250. 559.6 11300. 566.3 11350. 572.8 11400. 579.1 11450. 585.2
11500. 591.0 11550. 596.5 11600. 601.9 11650. 607.2 11700. 612.2
11750. 617.2 11800. 622.0 11850. 626.8 11900. 631.5 11950. 636.2
12000. 640.8 12050. 645.4 12100. 650.1 12150. 654.9 12200. 659.7

Figure 51. CUINTP output file 1982XY_l.ISH (Continued)

114
i
I
} 12250. 664.5 12300. 669.5 12350. 674.6 12400. 679.8 12450, 685.1
12500. 690.5 12550. 696.2 12600. 701.9 12650. 707.9 12700. 714.1
I
12750. 720.4 12800. 727.0 12850. 733.7 12900. 740.6 12950. 747.6
13000. 754.7 13050. 762.0 13100. 769.2 13150. 776.5 13200. 783.9
13250. 791.2 13300. 798.5 13350. 805.8 13400. 813.0 13450. 820.1
13500. 827.3 13550. 834.6 13600. 842.0 13650. 849.5 13700. 857.3
13750. 865.3 13800. 873.5 13850. 882.1 13900. 891.1 13950. 900.5
14000. 910.2 14050. 920.2 14100. 930.5 14150. 941.0 14200. 951.6
14250. 962.4 14300. 973.2 14350. 984.0 14400. 994.9 14450. 1005.6
14500. 1016.3 14550. 1026.7 14600. 1037.0 14650. 1047.1 14700. 1057.0
14750. 1066.7 14800. 1076.3 14850. 1085.8 14900. 1095.1 14950. 1104.4
15000. 1113.6 15050. 1122.7 15100. 1131.8 15150. 1140.9 15200. 1149.9
15250. 1159.0 15300. 1168.2 15350. 1177.4 15400. 1186.6 15450. 1196.0
15500. 1205.5 15550. 1215.0 15600. 1224.5 15650. 1234.1 15700. 1243.6
15750. 1253.1 15800. 1262.5 15850. 1271.9 15900. 1281.1 15950. 1290.1
16000. 1299.0 16050. 1307.7 16100. 1316.1 16150. 1324.3 16200. 1332.2
16250. 1339.8 16300. 1347.0 16350. 1354.0 16400. 1360.5 16450. 1366.6
16500. 1372.4 16550. 1377.6 16600. 1382.4 16650. 1386.7 16700. 1390.5
16750. 1393.8 16800. 1396.5 16850. 1398.7 16900. 1400.5 16950. 1402.1
17000. 1403.5 17050. 1404.8 17100. 1406.2 17150. 1407.8 17200. 1409.7
17250. 1412.0 17300. 1414.8 17350. 1418.2 17400. 1422.4 17450. 1427.3
17500. 1433.3 17550. 1440.1 17600. 1447.7 17650. 1456.1 17700. 1465.2
17750. 1474.8 17800. 1484.9 17850. 1495.4 17900. 1506.2 17950. 1517.3
18000. 1528.5 18050. 1539.8 18100. 1551.0 18150. 1562.2 18200. 1573.1
18250. 1583.8 18300. 1594.4 18350. 1604.8 18400. 1615.0 18450. 1625.0
18500. 1635.0 18550. 1644.8 18600. 1654.6 18650. 1664.3 18700. 1673.9

Figure 51. (Concluded)

The output file 1982XY_2.ISH is generated by the program, and the file is
listed in Figure 52. Again, the shaded values shown in Figure 52 correspond
to the nearest interpolated shoreline positions just north and south of the
inlet.
243. This completes Step 3 of the Preparation of Shoreline Position
Data procedure and is a good point in the analysis to closely examine the data
generated so far. The format of the output data files obtained with the
programs SHORLROT and CUINTP was specifically designed to be compatible with
(can serve as input to) the graphics package HGRAPH,* specifically the
program DPLOT of the HGRAPH package. This graphics package, including
documentation, object libraries, source code, and DPLOT.EXE is available to US
Army Corps of Engineers employees. The program DPLOT was used to generate the

,. plots shown in Figures 53, 54, and 55. The plots were first output from DPLOT

* HGRAPH, a graphics software package developed for the PC environment by

David W. Hyde, Structural Engineer, USAE Waterways Experiment Station,
Structures Laboratory.
 31> >U. uuuu
o. 1295.1 50. 1284.7 100. 1274.4 150. 1264.1 200. 1254.1
250. 1244.2 300. 1234.6 350. 1225.3 400. 1216.5 450. 1208.1
500. 1200.2 550. 1192.9 600. 1185.7 650. 1178.3 700. 1170.4
750. 1161.8 800. 1152.7 850. 1143.7 900. 1135.5 950. 1129.0
1000. 1124.7 1050. 1122.0 1100. 1120.0 1150. 1117.4 1200. 1113.2
1250, 1106.5 1300. 1097.9 1350. 1088.8 1400. 1080.2 1450. 1073.0
1500. 1067.1 1550. 1062.0 1600. 1057.2 1650. 1052.2 1700. 1046.7
1750. 1040.3 1800. 1032.8 1850. 1023.8 1900. 1013.9 1950. 1003.7
2000. 993.9 2050. 985.2 2100. 977.8 2150. 971.4 2200. 965.7
2250. 960.5 2300. 955.5 2350. 950.5 2400. 945.0 2450. 939.0
2500. 932.2 2550. 924.9 2600. 916.9 2650. 908.5 2700. 899.6
2750. 890.5 2800. 881.4 2850. 872.6 2900. 864.3 2950. 856.8
3000. 850.1 3050. 844.0 3100. 838.2 3150. 832.4 3200. 826.3
3250. 819.7 3300. 812.5 3350. 804.8 3400. 796.7 3450. 788.4
3500. 779.8 3550. 771.2 3600. 762.6 3650. 754.1 3700. 745.8
3750. 737.9 3800. 730.5 3850. 723.5 3900. 716.9 3950. 710.5
4000. 704.1 4050. 697.7 4100. 691.2 4150. 685.1 4200. 679.4
4250. 674.3 4300. 670.0 4350. 666.2 4400. 662.4 4450. 658.1
4500. 653.0 4550. 646.9 4600. 640.5 4650. 634.4 4700. 629.1
4750. 624.9 4800. 621.8 4850. 619.6 4900. 618.2 4950. 617.4
5000. 617.2 5050. 617.6 5100. 618.7 5150. 620.5 5200. 623.0
5250. 626.2 5300. 630.0 5350. 634.3 5400. 639.1 5450. 644.2
5500. 649.6 5550. 655.3 5600. 661.2 5650. 667.3 5700. 673.6
5750. 680.0 5800. 686.7 5850. 693.6 5900. 700.9 5950. 708.8
6000. 717.4 6050. 727.0 6100. 737.5 6150. 748.9 6200. 761.0
6250, 773.6 6300. 786.7 6350. 799.9 6400. 813.6 6450. 828.7
6500. 846.2 6550. 867.2 6600. 892.9 6650. 924.1 6700. 959.5
6750. 1050.7 6900. 1067.4 6950. 1077.0
7000. 1067.0 7150. 1052.1 7200. 1032.0
7250. 1007.3 7300. 978.2 7350. 945.1 7400. 908.6 7450. 868.9
7500. 826.5 7550. 781.8 7600. 735.2 7650. 687.0 7700. 637.7
7750. 587.7 7800. 537.4 7850. 487.2 7900. 437.5 7950. 388.6
8000. 341.0 8050. 295.2 8100. 251.4 8150. 210.1 8200. 171.7
8250. 136.6 8300. 105.1 8350. 77.8 8400. 55.0 8450. 37.0
8500. 24.4 8550. 17.4 8600. 16.6 8650. 22.3 K%B&&W2xRiti
:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.::..........
8750. 53.7 8800. 76.6 8850. 101.0 8900. 124.5 8950. 144.6
9000. 161.0 9050. 174.4 9100. 185.8 9150. 195.9 9200. 205.6
9250. 215.6 9300. 225.9 9350. 236.5 9400. 247.1 9450. 257.5
9500. 267.4 9550. 276.8 9600. 285.5 9650. 293.7 9700. 301.6
9750. 309.2 9800. 316.7 9850. 324.1 9900. 331.6 9950. 339.1
10000. 346.9 10050. 354.9 10100. 363.1 10150. 371.7 10200. 380.6
10250. 389.7 10300. 398.8 10350. 408.0 10400. 417.1 10450. 426.1
10500. 434.9 10550. 443.6 10600. 452.1 10650. 460.3 10700. 468.3
10750. 476.2 10800. 483.8 10850. 491.2 10900. 498.6 10950. 506.0
11000, 513.4 11050. 520.9 11100. 528.7 11150. 536.5 11200. 544.4
11250. 552.0 11300. 559.2 11350. 565.9 11400. 571.8 11450. 577.1
11500. 581.8 11550. 586.1 11600. 590.2 11650. 594.3 11700. 598.5
11750. 602.8 11800. 607.4 11850. 612.1 11900. 617.0 11950. 621.9
12000. 626.8 12050. 631.8 12100. 636.8 12150. 641.9 12200. 646.9

t Figure 52. CUINTP output file 1982XY_2.ISH (Continued)

116
 12250. 651.9 12300. 657.0 12350. 662.1 12400. 667.2 12450. 672.4
12500. 677.6 12550. 682.9 12600. 688.3 12650. 693.9 12700. 699.7
12750. 705.7 12800. 712.0 12850. 718.5 12900. 725.4 12950. 732.6
13000. 740.2 13050. 748.3 13100. 756.8 13150. 765.9 13200. 775.4
13250. 785.1 13300. 794,8 13350. 804.3 13400. 813.2 13450. 821.4
13500. 828.8 13550. 835.4 13600. 841.5 13650. 847.4 13700. 853.3
13750. 859.5 13800. 866.3 13850. 873.9 13900. 882.2 13950. 891.2
14000. 900.8 14050. 911.0 14100. 921.6 14150. 932.5 14200. 943.7
14250. 955.1 14300. 966.5 14350. 978.0 14400. 989.5 14450. 1000.8
14500. 1012.1 14550. 1023.2 14600. 1034.1 14650. 1044.8 14700. 1055.3
14750. 1065.6 14800. 1075.5 14850. 1085.1 14900. 1094.3 14950. 1103.2
15000. 1111.6 15050. 1119.7 15100. 1127.4 15150. 1134.9 15200. 1142.2
15250. 1149.4 15300. 1156.4 15350. 1163.4 15400. 1170.5 15450. 1177.6
15500. 1184.8 15550. 1192.2 15600. 1199.8 15650. 1207.6 15700. 1215.8
15750. 1224.3 15800. 1233.1 15850. 1242.2 15900. 1251.7 15950. 1261.6
16000. 1271.9 16050. 1282,6 16100. 1293.5 16150. 1304.4 16200. 1315.2
16250. 1325.9 16300. 1336.1 16350. 1345.8 16400. 1354.8 16450. 1363.0
16500. 1370.3 16550. 1376.5 16600. 1381.7 16650. 1386.0 16700. 1389.7
16750. 1392.7 16800. 1395.1 16850. 1397.2 16900. 1398.9 16950. 1400.5
17000, 1402.0 17050. 1403<8 17100. 1405.9 17150. 1408.6 17200. 1412.0
17250. 1416.3 17300. 1421.6 17350. 1427.8 17400. 1434.7 17450. 1442.3
17500. 1450.3 17550. 1458.6 17600. 1467.1 17650. 1475.6 17700. 1484.1
17750. 1492.5 17800. 1500.9 17850. 1509.1 17900. 1517.2 17950. 1525.1
18000. 1532.8 18050. 1540.3 18100. 1547.6 18150. 1555.0 18200. 1562.4
18250. 1570.1 18300. 1578.2 18350. 1586.7 18400. 1595.8 18450. 1605.7
18500. 1616.3 18550. 1627.4 18600. 1639.0 18650. 1651.1 18700. 1663.4

Figure 52. (Concluded)

by selecting the output device “FILE.” This causes the program to write the
graphic image in Hewlett-Packard Graphic Language (HPGL) to an output file.
HPGL is the two-letter-mnemonic graphics language understood by HP plotters
and graphics printers, as well as many other hard copy output devices and
commercial software packages, including graphics and word-processing programs.
These output files, which contain the graphic image in HPGL, were then
imported into this document. Regardless of the graphics software used, it is
easiest to review and perform quality checks on digitized and/or interpolated
shoreline position data by inspection of plots.
244. The four shoreline position data files generated so far are
plotted in Figure 53, Square symbols represent the digitized data points
after being rotated to the GENESIS coordinate system and were read from the
file 1982XY — I.ROT. The solid line is the interpolated shoreline position
(read from the file 1982XY_l.ISH) that was calculated based on the first data
set. Diamond symbols represent the second set of digitized data points after
rotation to the GENESIS coordinate system and were read from the file

117
 i[
$

Pre~arat ion of Shore llne Posltlon Data

2000”
0 ❑ ODlgltlzed (1982XY_l ROT)
Interpolated (1982XY_2 ISH)
O 0 ODlgltlzed (1982XY_2.ROT)
------------ Interpolated (1982XY_2 ISH)

1500”

J-

1-u
f.-)
z
<
m
c) I\
\
500” I~
t
It
11
t1
It
t
1\
tt
\
I I I I I
0
0 2000 4000 6000 8000 10000 12000 14000 16000 18000 20000

DISTANCE ALONGSHORE (ft)

Figure 53. I)igitized and interpolated shoreline position data

 611

DISTANCE OFFSHORE (ft)

m m o N A
o 0 o 0 0
o 0 0 0
o m
I I I / I

•1
•1
0
0
0 •1

W
o
0
0
r

w m Lo
o 03 co
0
0 N N
0 x x
< <
rru NJ

—
/
3 (n
A I I
o . ,!5%2
0
0 u
o
m

(n
o (
0
0
\
\

\
\
\
\
m \
o
0
0

d
o \
0
0
 OZT
DISTANCE OFFSHORE (ft)

N
(n o ul o
o 0 0 0
m 0
o --Y----
0 I
0

0 •1
0 ❑
0
0 0 c1
0
m u — -
+ —. 3–
b (cl
(D —.
r+
—.
N
(D
Q
I nJ
o (D
0 Q
m
+
L -..
-----
I mmcoz
0
-+

A
o —
0 —
m
+
A —

m
0
m

cc .
o
—
0 0
m 3
+
s

\
m \\
o
0
m
+
\
\

m
0
0
0
m
+
1982XY_2.ROT. Likewise, the dashed line is the interpolated shoreline
position that was calculated from the second data set.
245. First of all, note the inlet located approximately 8,000 ft from
the origin of the SENESIS coordinate system. Specification of the shoreline
position in this region requires consideration not only of the shoreline but
also the method of modeling the entire inlet system. The most common and
recommended procedure is to divide the area of interest into two project
reaches and model each separately. Another alternative would be co attempt to
model across the inlet, treating the inlet throat as a fictitious shoreline.
Therefore, for the remainder of this example, two model reaches will be
considered, one north of the inlet and one south.
246. Figures 54 and 55 are plots of the digitized and interpolated
shoreline positions for the north and south model reaches, respectively. It
is observed that the second digitized data set (1982XY— 2.ROT) contains almost
double the number of digitized points as the first data set (1982XY_l.ROT).
Consequently, the dashed shoreline that was interpolated from the second data
set shows more detail and shoreline variation than the solid shoreline that
was interpolated from the first data set. This is an important matter to
consider when digitizing shoreline data. If the curvature of the shoreline
changes steeply or there is a significant or peculiar variation in the
shoreline in some area, the density of digitized points should be gradually
increased as compared with areas where the shoreline is relatively straight.
Note , in particular, the differences in interpolated shoreline positions at
alongshore distance 5,000 ft in Figure 54 and between 9,000 and 10,000 ft in
Figure 55.
247. In a given project, consistency between different shoreline posi-
tions data sets can be improved if the same individual performs all the
digitizing. Two data sets digitized at different times or with different
software packages should not be combined and then interpolated using the
program CUINTP. Doing so may result in unrealistic shoreline undulations
caused by the highly nonuniform spacing between the digitized data points and
the cubic interpolation routine being used.

Step 4: Shoreline position data

files for input to GENESIS (WTSHO)
248. This is the final step in the Preparation of Shoreline Position
Data for input to the shoreline change model GENESIS. Because GENESIS

121
operates on a one-dimensional grid with alongshore cells of constant length,
only the distance from the baseline (offshore distance) is required by the
model to define the shoreline position. The program WTSHO will read the
interpolated X-Y shoreline position data file created by the program CUINTP (a
.ISH file) and write an output file containing only the distances of the
shoreline from the model baseline (Y-value data) in a format that can be read
by GENESIS. Other data files may be input to the program WTSHO provided the
file name extension is .ISH and the data are in the format specified previous-
ly for .ISH files.
249. The program is executed by issuing the command WTSHO at the PC
prompt. The program responds with a prompt for the input file name without an
extension; in this example, the name 1982XY — 1 was entered. Remember, all
files input to WTSHO must have the extension .ISH.
250. Next, the program prompts for the output file name without an
extension. The output file from the program WTSHO is automatically assigned
the extension .SHO, indicating that the file contains shoreline position data
ready for input to GENESIS. For this example, the name 1982CCN is entered.
This file name was selected because the shoreline data are for the year 1982,
the hypothetical project is at Cape Canaveral (abbreviated in the file name as
CC), and the letter “N” in the file name denotes that the shoreline data file
is for the north reach. Similarly, the previously discussed file names all
contained the year 1982 and the characters XY, indicating that the file
contained both X- and Y-values that specified shoreline position. The
extensions denoted whether the data were digitized (.DIG), rotated to the
GENESIS coordinate system (.ROT), or interpolated (.ISH).
251. The program then reports to the monitor the cell spacing of the
input interpolated shoreline position file and requests entry of the required
cell spacing of the output file. The output cell spacing must be either equal
to or an even multiple of the input file cell spacing. In this example, the
value 100.0 is entered.
252. Next, the program reports to the monitor the beginning alongshore
position (in this example X = 0.0) and the ending alongshore position (in this
example X = 18700) read from the specified input file. The program then
prompts for entry of the X-value at which the program should start writing the
shoreline position data (in this example, the value 0.0 is entered) . Then the
program prompts for entry of the X-value at which the program should stop

122
writing the shoreline position data. Because an input shoreline file for the
north reach is being generated, the user should stop writing the shoreline
position data at the interpolated shoreline position nearest to the last
digitized shoreline position north of the inlet. Recall from Figure 49 that
the last digitized shoreline position north of the inlet was located at X =
6806.9 and Y= 1040.2. Therefore, the value 6800.0 is entered.
253. Next, the program prompts for information that will be written to
the output file header. The first prompt requests entry of the date corre-
sponding to the shoreline data. This date should be entered as a six-
character integer; in this example, the value 820101 is entered. Next, the
program prompts for entry of the system of units associated with the shoreline
data. Since the interpolated shoreline position data are in feet, the value 1
is entered. If the data were expressed in meters, the value 2 would have been
entered. The program then writes the specified shoreline data to the file
1982CCN,SH0 and terminates. A listing of this file is contained in Figure 56.
Note that the four-line header of the file 1982CCN.SHO contains a statement
indicating that the data were measured (as opposed to predicted), the date,
the cell spacing and system of units, together with the input file name from
which the data were extracted, and the beginning and ending alongshore
positions defining the north model reach.
254. The next step involves extracting the shoreline data for the south
model reach by executing the program WTSHO again. This time, however, the
specified beginning and ending alongshore positions will correspond to the
south model reach. Responses to the program prompts are as follows:
a.
— Input file name: 1982XY_l
b.
— Output file name: 1982CCS
c.
— Required cell spacing: 100.

MEASURED SHORELINE POSITION OF 820101; CELL SPACING (DX=1OO. ft)

THESE DATA WERE OBTAINED FROM THE FILE: 1982xy_l.ISH
STARTING AT ALONGSHORE POSITION X= O. AND ENDING AT X= 6800.
***************************************************************************
1308.9 1287.8 1266.8 1246.1 1225.9 1206.4 1188.4 1172.2 1158.5 1146.8
1136.3 1125.8 1114.6 1101.9 1088.0 1073.2 1057.7 1041.8 1025.7 1009.7
994.0 978.7 964.2 950.6 937.8 925.6 913.6 901.7 889.4 876.6
863.2 849.2 834.7 819.8 804.4 788.7 772.7 756.8 741.0 725.8
711.3 697.8 685.3 674.() 663.9 655.0 647.2 640.8 635.7 632.1
630.2 630.3 632.7 637.5 645.0 655.2 667.7 681.8 697.0 712.7
728.3 743.2 759.1 779.4 807.8 848.0 903.7 972.6 1036.5

Figure 56. WTSHO output file 1982ccN.sI-10

123
 d.
- Starting alongshore position: 8700.0
e.
— Ending alongshore position: 18700.0
f
—. Date of shoreline survey: 820101

g. System of units: 1 (FEET)

255. Note that the specified output file name ends with an “S,”
indicating that the data pertain to the south model reach. Also , the starting
alongshore position is specified at 8700. Recall from Figure 49 that this
alongshore position corresponds to the nearest interpolated position to the
digitized shoreline point closest to the south jetty at the inlet. The output
file 1982CCS.SHO is listed in Figure 57. Notice that the file 1982cCS.SHO
contains shoreline position data for 101 alongshore cells at a cell width of
100 ft. This number exceeds the maximum number of alongshore coordinates
allowed in the PC version of the numerical model GENESIS. Therefore, the user
would, at this point, have to determine if a suitable boundary condition could
be implemented closer to the inlet u increase the cell spacing for the south
model reach. This completes the Preparation of Shoreline Data Analysis for
the first digitized data set.
256. The remaining task in this example is to generate shoreline
position data files for the north and south model reaches using the second
data set (1982XY.ISH) as input to the program WTSHO. This task is accom-
plished by executing the program WTSHO twice as was done previously for the
first data set, except this time the name 1982XY_Z is entered at the prompt
for the input file name. Listings of the two required shoreline data files
for the north and south model reaches are given in Figures 58 and 59,
respectively.
MEASURED SHORELINE POSITION OF 820101; CELL SPACING (DX=1OO. ft)
THESE DATA WERE OBTAINED FROM THE FILE: 1982xy_l.ISH
STARTING AT ALONGSHORE POSITION X= 8700. AND ENDING AT X= 18700.
****************************************************%**********************
32.0 39.7 63.9 99.4 141.6 185.5 226.3 259.4 283.9 301.9
315.5 326.8 337.9 350.7 365.5 381.6 398.9 416,9 435.2 453.5
471.6 489.3 506.4 522.6 538.1 552.7 566.3 579.1 591.0 601.9
612.2 622.0 631.5 640.8 650.1 659.7 669.5 679.8 690.5 701.9
714.1 727.0 740.6 754.7 769.2 783.9 798.5 813.0 827.3 842.0
857.3 873.5 891.1 910.2 930.5 951.6 973.2 994.9 1016.3 1037.0
1057.0 1076.3 1095.1 1113.6 1131.8 1149.9 1168.2 1186.6 1205.5 1224.5
1243.6 1262.5 1281.1 1299.0 1316.1 1332.2 1347.0 1360.5 1372.4 1382.4
1390.5 1396.5 1400.5 1403.5 1406.2 1409.7 1414.8 1422.4 1433.3 1447.7
1465.2 1484.9 1506.2 1528.5 1551.0 1573.1 1594.4 1615.0 1635.0 1654.6
1673.9
Figure 57. WTSHO output file 1982CCS.SHO

124
 MEASURED SHORELINE POSITION OF 820101; CELL SPACING (DX=1OO. ft)
THESE DATA WERE OBTAINED FROM THE FILE: 1982XY_2.ISH
STARTING AT ALONGSHORE POSITION X= O. AND ENDING AT X= 6800.
***************************************************************************
1295.1 1274.4 1254.1 1234.6 1216.5 1200.2 1185.7 1170.4 1152.7 1135.5
1124.7 1120.0 1113.2 1097.9 1080.2 1067.1 1057.2 1046.7 1032.8 1013.9
993.9 977.8 965.7 955.5 945.0 932.2 916.9 899.6 881.4 864.3
850.1 838.2 826.3 812.5 796.7 779.8 762.6 745.8 730.5 716.9
704.1 691.2 679.4 670.0 662.4 653.0 640.5 629.1 621.8 618.2
617.2 618.7 623.0 630.0 639.1 649.6 661.2 673.6 686.7 700.9
717.4 737.5 761.0 786.7 813.6 846.2 892.9 959.5 1026.4

Figure 58. wTsHo output file 1982ccN2.SHO

257. This completes the example application of the programs used in the
Preparation of Shoreline Position Data analysis procedure. It is recommended
that users not familiar with the procedures presented in this chapter repeat
the analysis given in the example using the same two input data sets but
substituting metric length units. This will require a positive response to
the prompt, “Do you want to perform a system of units conversion?” issued
during execution of the program SHORLROT. Remember that the digitized data
(1982XY_l.DIG and 1982XY_2.DIG) are expressed in feet so the required conver-
sion will be from feet to meters.

MEASURED SHORELINE POSITION OF 820101; CELL SPACING (DX=1OO. ft)

THESE DATA WERE OBTAINED FROM THE FILE: 1982XY_2.ISH
STARTING AT ALONGSHORE POSITION X= 8700. AND ENDING AT X= 18700.
***************************************************************************
34.8 76.6 124.5 161.0 185.8 205.6 225.9 247.1 267.4 285.5
301.6 316.7 331.6 346.9 363.1 380.6 398.8 417.1 434.9 452.1
468.3 483.8 498.6 513.4 528.7 544.4 559.2 571.8 581.8 590.2
598.5 607.4 617.0 626.8 636.8 646.9 657.0 667.2 677.6 688.3
699.7 712.0 725.4 740.2 756.8 775.4 794.8 813.2 828.8 841.5
853.3 866.3 882.2 900.8 921.6 943.7 966.5 989.5 1012.1 1034.1
1055.3 1075.5 1094.3 1111.6 1127.4 1142.2 1156.4 1170.5 1184.8 1199.8
1215.8 1233.1 1251.7 1271.9 1293.5 1315.2 1336.1 1354.8 1370.3 1381.7
1389.7 1395.1 1398.9 1402.0 1405.9 1412.0 1421.6 1434.7 1450.3 1467.1
1484.1 1500.9 1517.2 1532.8 1547.6 1562.4 1578.2 1595.8 1616.3 1639.0
1663.4
Figure 59. WTSHO output file 1982CCS2.SHO

125
 Summarv

258. This chapter on the analysis of shoreline position data concludes

with a review of the more important points. First and foremost, if a near-
shore wave transformation model is going to provide nearshore wave conditions
for input to GENESIS, it is mandatory that the bathymetry grid used in the
wave transformation model coincide in orientation with the shoreline grid used
in GENESIS. In other words, the baselines of the two models must be parallel.
Second, the density of the digitized shoreline points will determine the level
of detail (and, to some degree, the accuracy) contained in the final shoreline
data that will serve as input for the shoreline change simulation. In review
of available shoreline survey data (maps, charts, aerial photographs) to
specify the alongshore baseline, an elevation datum should also be selected,
and all depths, including the shoreline position, should be referred to this
datum.
259. Digitized shoreline position data should first be rotated to the
GENESIS coordinate system without translating the origin. The generated
output file (“filename.ROT”) from this run should then be used to appropriate-
ly specify the origin translation distances. If a length units conversion is
to be performed, it should be specified in the second step of the analysis,
during execution of the program SHORLROT. Finally, all shoreline data written
for input to the shoreline change model should be encompassed by digitized
data (i.e., there should be at least one digitized shoreline point outside the
interpolated data that will be input to GENESIS). This requirement applies
especially to interior points such as at the inlet in the example application.
260. This analysis procedure can also be used to obtain seawall
position data in the GENESIS coordinate system and format. The output file
from WTSHO may, however, require some editing (entry of data points at
shoreline points where a seawall does not exist (see Part VII)) prior to input
to GENESIS.

126
 PART V : OFFSHORE WAVE ANALYSIS

261. This chapter presents procedures for obtaining, analyzing, and

preparing offshore wave data for input to GENESIS. The phrase “offshore wave
data” refers to a time series of statistical wave height, period, and direc-
tion obtained from either a hindcast or wave measurements. These data may be
input to GENESIS directly or used to drive an external wave transformation
model. The procedures, computer programs, and a methodology for their use
were developed to aid the modeler in the manipulation and transformation of
hindcast wave data. Two data bases containing the WIS wave hindcast estimates
are discussed, and an overview of the procedure for extracting a specific time
series from the data base is given.
262. Three computer programs are introduced in this chapter. The first
program, WAVETRAN, performs a spectral wave transformation (according to the
WIS Phase III transformation procedure (Jensen 1983b)) from one depth to
another. The second program, WTWAVTS, is a utility program that enables the
user either to select a portion of a wave time series from a single file and I
write it to another file, or to append several files containing individual
wave time series to obtain a single file containing a long time series. This
program is needed because wave time series extracted from the CEDRS data base i
are limited to l-year in length, and time series from 5 to 10 years in length
are typically required in shoreline change modeling studies. The third
program, WTWAVES, reads a specified WIS-type wave time series and writes a
WAVES.ext file for input to GENESIS.
263. At the end of the chapter, a flow diagram for the analysis of
offshore wave data is provided. This diagram presents the recommended
sequence and usage of the analysis programs described and demonstrated in this
chapter, as well as those presented and demonstrated in Part III.

Sources of Offshore Wave Information

Introduction
264. Within the Corps, there are several potential sources for obtain-
ing wave information. These sources include the WIS hindcasts, Littoral
Environmer~tObservation (LEO) data, the Coastal Field Data Collection Program,
the Monitoring Completed Coastal Projects Program, and data collected by Corps

127
Districts. Outside the Corps, wave data may be obtained from hindcasts
performed by the Fleet Numeric Oceanographic Center of the US Navy, from the
National Data Buoy Center, through the US Air Force Environmental Technical
Applications Center, or from local or State agencies such as the Department of
Natural Resources in California and Florida.
265. In shoreline response modeling projects, the modeler needs an
uninterrupted wave record in order to perform long-term shoreline change
simulations. This requirement often precludes the use of wave gage data,
since the programs to collect these data are relatively new. Although
sufficient for making estimates of the general characteristicsof the incident
wave climate, LEO data are typically not long-term or uninterrupted; and, in
general, the observations are made only once daily, which is not frequent
enough for use in shoreline change modeling efforts. Consequently, hindcast
estimates of the incident wave conditions are most commonly used in shoreline
change modeling; within the Corps, the WIS hindcast is the most comprehensive.
WIS hindcasts
266, The WIS hindcasts presently cover the 20-year time period between
1956 and 1975 for the Atlantic, Gulf of Mexico, and Pacific coasts, and plans
exist to extend these hindcasts over the time period 1976 through 1985. In
the Great Lakes, WIS hindcasts are presently being performed for the 32-year
time period between 1956 and 1987. The WIS provides an extensive, comprehen-
sive data base that typically represents the best available wave data for use
in shoreline change modeling.
267. The WIS separates the wave climatology of the Atlantic and Pacific
coasts into three phases:
a.
— Phase I - Numerical hindcast of deepwater wave data from
historical surface pressure and wind data.
b.
— Phase II - Hindcast similar to Phase I with a finer grid and
Phase I data, serving as the boundary conditions at the
seaward edge of the Phase II grid.
c.
— Phase III - Transformation of Phase II wave data into shallow
water, with simplifying assumptions.

In the Gulf of Mexico hindcast, the WIS shallow-water model was used because
the gulf is a relatively small water body and certain wzve frequencies will be
transformed by the bathymetry. Therefore, the Gulf of Mexico hindcast differs
from the Atlantic and Pacific hindcasts in that a Phase-II grid (30-nautical-
mile resolution) was applied, and each WIS station is associated with a

128
specific water depth. In the Great Lakes hindcast, the WIS deep-~atermodel
was used together with a 10-statute-mile resolution grid. Figure 60 provides
a summary of WIS reports and types of data available.
\~ISdata bases
268. All of the WIS hindcasts are available and have been archived.
Time series and/or statistical data may be obtained from several potential
sources including; (a) the Sea-State Engineering Analysis Systez (SEAS), (b)
the Coastal Engineering Data Retrieval System (CEDRS), and (c) mmbers of the
WIS staff. Statistical information for many of the WIS stations are contained
in the WIS data reports listed in Figure 60.
269. The SEAS data base is a composite system that includes:
a.
— A data base of hindcast wave parameter data organized by
location and chronologically by time interval.
b
—. A retrieval system to allow extraction of any subset of the
data base.
c.
— A program library of statistical routines to produce desired
data listings and reports.

Complete documentation of and a user’s manual for the SEAS system is given in
WIS Report 10 (McAneny 1986).

WAVE INFORMATIONSTUDY (WIS)

DOCUMENTATION AND DATA SOURCES

m m
WIS REPORT I :::7s
STATISTICAL SEAS CERC
DATA WIS REPORT 3 ml

WIS REPORT 4
WIS REPORT 2 WIS REPORT 18 WIS REPORT 22
WIS REPORT 5
WIS REPORT 6 WIS REPORI 19 WIS REPORT 23
WIS REPORT 7
WIS REPORT 9 WIS REPORT 24
WIS REPORT 8
WIS REPORT 13
wIS REPORT II
WIS REPORT 15
WIS REPOFIT 12
WIS REPORT 1!3
WIS REPORT 19 WIS REPORT 10
WIS REPORT 20

WIS REPORT 21

Figure 60. Summary of WIS documentation and data sources

129
 270. The CEDRS data base is an interactive microcomputer resident data
base system that provides both hindcast and measured wind and wave data for
use in the field of coastal engineering. The general goal is to assemble,
archive, and make available via CEDRS regional data bzses containing data
applicable to requirements of individual coastal Districts of the Corps of
Engineers. The CEDRS data bases, as indicated, are compiled regionally, and
each CEDRS data base will contain appropriate regional data from the WIS
hindcasts, LEO observations, and measured wave data as well as other environ-
mental data such as wind speed and direction. Consequently, CEDRS user’s
manuals are compiled individually for each region when the system is made
available.
271. If neither the SEAS nor the CEDRS data base systems are available,
WIS data can be obtained from the WIS staff at CERC. Requests for WIS data
should be directed to “The Wave Information Study (WIS) Manager” at CERC.

WAVETRAN

Introduction
272. After WIS hindcast wave estimates are obtained, various analysis
and/or transformation of the data must be performed prior to conducting a
shoreline change simulation using GENESIS. Consideration should be given to
the water depth associated with the data (GENESIS requires input of the water
depth associated with the offshore wave input) and wave sheltering by nearby
land masses or shoals. Typically, this step requires a transformation of the
wave information from one water depth to a shallower depth, and the transfor-
mation may include the sheltering of wave energy from specific directions.
The program WAVETRAN was designed to enable GENESIS users to perform these
types of transformations. WAVETRAN, as presented in the following paragraphs,
is a collection of computer programs (which have been converted into subrou-
tines called by a main program) that were originally developed and used to
produce the WIS Phase III data. The methodology for this transformation
procedure is described in WIS Report 8 (Jensen 1983b). The programs are based
on the assumptions of spectral transforma~ion of sea and swell waves, with no
additional energy input from wind, and straight and parallel bottom contours.
These assumptions pertain to deeper water depths. Although the programs from
which WAVETRAN was developed have been used operationally, they have not been

130
.

exhaustively documented and tested for general application and should be

regarded as developmental software. Consequently, a source code listing of
WAVETRAN is not included in the appendices. Figure 61 shows the three sources
for obtaining WIS hindcast data and the input requirements of WA.VETRAN,
together with the generated output.
Calculation procedure
273. The basic methodology for the transformation of sea and swell
waves from one depth to a shallower depth is described in detail by Jensen
(1983b), and only a narrative description of the transformationwill be given
here. Both sea and swell waves are assumed to have a distribution of energy
over a range of frequencies and directions. The energy spectrum in shallow
water is governed by the TMA spectral form (Bouws et al. 1985) for both sea
and swell. The acronym TMA was obtained by combining the first letter of the
three data sets (Texel, MARSEN, and ARSLOE) used for field verification of the
developed finite water depth spectral shape. Hughes (1984) provides a
decryption of the TMA and shallow-water spectrum with applications, The
directional spread for sea and swell is given by the cosine function raised to
the 4th and 8th power, respectively. The directional spectrum is discretized
into frequency and direction components, and the components are treated
independently, other than the limitation on total energy imposed by the TMA
form in shallow water. Bottom contours between the WIS Phase II and Phase III
points are assumed to be straight and parallel. Consequently, the selection
of the shoreline orientation (assumed to be identical to the orientation of
the bottom contours) should be done with care because it directly affects the
transformation process. Within the start-up algorithm, an option is provided
for sheltering the shallow-water point from wave energy approaching from
specified wave directions. If this option is activated, wave component-sfrom
the sheltered directions are deleted from the spectrum. This option is useful
if the shallow-water site is partially sheltered from wave arrival by a nearby
point of land or a large shoal.
274. The program WAVETRAN consists of a main program that prompts the
user for the file name of the input and output time series; the format of the
input time series (either SEAS or CEDRS); the local shoreline orientation
(which should exactly correspond to the GENESIS and RCPWAVE baseline
orientation); the water depth associated with the input time series, and the
water depth to which the transformation is to be performed; the required

131
 ACQUISITION AND TRANSFORMATION OF WIS DATA

CEDRS
53 )

20-YEAR TIME SERIES

OF WIS PHASE II TYPE WAVE
HINDCAST ESTIMATES

Specified Water Depth This ,S a collection of

Sheltering Angles standard WIS Phase Ill

transformation programs

w +
/ A

This optional output file This file will provide primary

contains the sea and swell time series input for the
transformation operators for PREPARATION OF WAVE DATA
the Phase Ill transformation APPLICATION MODULES

Figure 61. Data sources and transformation of WIS hindcast data

sheltering option and specification; and, finally, the transformation option

that determines the disposition of the calculated transformation operators
(this option and the implication of the various specifications will be
disc:ssed in detail in tileexamples that follow).
275. With the previously described inputs properly specified,
the
transformation calculations may proceed. Transformation operators are first
calculated for sea conditions and then for swell conditions.
Calculation of

132
 1
the transformation operators requires one execution of the subroutine SPREF
and two executions of the subroutines OPR1, 0PR2, and COMBO (once for sea
conditions and once for swell conditions), and represents approximately
95 percent of the computational effort in the transformation process.
276. The first subroutine call by the main program is to SPREF. This
subroutine calculates the refraction and shoaling coefficients for each of the
40 frequency and 20 direction components of the discretized spectrum. Then
the subroutine OPR1 is called by the main program. This subroutine calculates
transformation operators for each of the 40 frequency bands and 20 direction
bands and proceeds from shore-normal through 180 deg in a counterclockwise
direction. The results (height and angle transformation operators) are stored
in three-dimensionalarrays for later use. Then the subroutine OPR2 is called
by the main program. This subroutine performs the same computations as OPR1
except that the calculations proceed from shore-normal through 180 deg in a
clockwise direction. After completion of OPR2, the main program calls the
subroutine COMBO. This subroutine combines the first and second halves of the
transformation operators computed by the subroutines OPR1 and OPR2 into a
look-up table.
277. At this point the transformation operators for sea wave conditions
have been computed. Then a flag is set for swell wave conditions and the
subroutines SPREF, OPR1, OPR2, and COMBO are again called in sequence to
compute transformation operators for swell wave conditions.
278. The final operation (and the actual transformation of Phase II to
Phase III wave conditions) is performed by the subroutine PHASE3. This
subroutine reads a set of wave parameters (wave height, period, and direction)
from the input Phase II time series and interpolates the Phase III wave
parameters from the look-up tables. An important aspect of this transforma-
tion procedure not readily apparent is that if a number of input time series
files (for instance ten l-year-long Phase II time series) need to be trans-
formed to a particular Phase III site, then the transformation operators need
be computed only once (the first time). In successive runs, the previously
computed transformation operators can be accessed and used to perform the
required transformations. This feature is enacted by the appropriate specifi-
cation of the transformation option, as will be demonstrated in the following
example applications.

133
Example applications
279. Operation and utility of the program WAVEIMN will now be demon-
strated through five example applications. The first EWO examples demonstrate
the transformation option feature, and the las~ three examples detail the
various sheltering options.
280. Example 1. In this example, wave da~a in yhe SEAS format are used
as input to the program WAVETRAN. This time series (s)iownin Figure 62) was
fabricated specifically for the purposes of this example and does not repre-
sent an actual hindcast data set. The data in Figure 52 are assumed to exist
in the default directory in a file named TESTWP3.DAT. This file name is
entered when the program prompts the user for the inpuz file name. This file
must exist (it represents the input) in either the default directory or the
directory path specified when the file name was entered; if not, the program
will terminate.
281. The program then prompts for the output file name; in this
example, the output file name OUTITST is entered. This file name must not
already exist in the working directory; if it is found in the directory, the
program will terminate. This procedure precludes unir,:entionaloverwriting of
an already transformed time series. Note that the output file extension is
m requested and should not be entered. The program -Jillassign the exten-
sion .PH3 to all output time series files. This namin5 convention was
developed to help the user keep track of the multitude of computer files
generated in the course of performing a shoreline char.~estudy. In summary,
any file with a ,PH3 extension represents a time series that has been trans-
formed from a WIS Phase II station to a user-specified Phase III-type station
via the program WAVETRAN.
282. The next prompt issued by the program requests the user to define
the input data format. The two available options are zither SEAS or CEDRS.
In the present example, input time series were generated in the SEAS format,
so the value 1 is entered. It is assumed that all inp.~ttime series to the
program WAVETRAN are either WIS Phase I or Phase 11 hi:.dcastwave data
obtained from SEAS, CEDRS, or WIS personnel at CERC.
283. The next prompt issued by the progzsm reques?s entry of the local
shoreline orientation in degrees measured countercloch-ise from north.
Figure 13 in Part III provides a schematic illustration of the shoreline

134
 A2028 51
62010100 125 3 10 125 3 10 62010406 400 10 100 400 10 100
62010103 150 3 20 150 3 20 62010409 350 10 110 350 10 110
62010106 175 3 30 175 3 30 62010412 300 10 120 300 10 120
62010109 200 3 40 200 3 40 62010415 250 10 130 250 10 130
62010112 250 3 50 250 3 50 62010418 200 10 140 200 10 140
62010115 300 3 60 300 3 60 62010421 175 10 150 175 10 150
62010118 350 3 70 350 3 70 62010500 150 10 160 150 10 160
62010121 400 3 80 400 3 80 62010503 125 10 170 125 10 170
62010200 425 3 90 425 3 90 62010506 125 25 10 125 25 10
62010203 400 3 100 400 3 100 62010509 150 25 20 150 25 20
62010206 350 3 110 350 3 110 62010512 175 25 30 175 25 30
62010209 300 3 120 300 3 120 62010515 200 25 40 200 25 40
62010212 250 3 130 250 3 130 62010518 250 25 50 250 25 50
62010215 200 3 140 200 3 140 62010521 300 25 60 300 25 60
62010218 175 3 150 175 3 150 62010600 350 25 70 350 25 70
62010221 150 3 160 150 3 160 62010603 400 25 80 400 25 80
62010300 125 3 170 125 3 170 62010606 425 25 90 425 25 90
62010303 125 10 10 125 10 10 62010609 400 25 100 400 25 100
62010306 150 10 20 150 10 20 62010612 350 25 110 350 25 110
62010309 175 10 30 175 10 30 62010615 300 25 120 300 25 120
62010312 200 10 40 200 10 40 62010618 250 25 130 250 25 130
62010315 250 10 50 250 10 50 62010621 200 25 140 200 25 140
62010318 300 10 60 300 10 60 62010700 175 25 150 175 25 150
62010321 350 10 70 350 10 70 62010703 150 25 160 150 25 160
62010400 400 10 80 400 10 80 62010706 125 25 170 125 25 170
62010403 425 10 90 425 10 90

Figure 62. Input time series for WAVETRAN Examples 1 through 5

orientation coordinate system used herein and in WIS. For this example, a
shoreline orientation of O (deg) is entered.
284. Next, the program prompts for the user-specified local station
identification code, which must be a five character alphanumeric identifier,
It is suggested that this identification code include the Phase I or Phase II
station number together with the Phase III station number. In this example,
the identifier 31AZ8 is entered. The first three characters identify the
Phase 111 station number (31A), and the last two characters identify the
assumed Phase II station number (28).
285. The program then prompts for the water depth (in meters) associat-
ed with the input time series. If WIS provides a water depth for the Phase I
or Phase II station, use it; otherwise, if deep water is assumed, enter the
value -999. In this example, the value -999 is entered. The program then
prompts for the water depth (in meters) into which the transformation is to be
made. For this example, the value 10 is entered.

135
 286. The next prompt issued by the program reques?s specification of
the sheltering option. The choices are: (0) no sheltering, (1) one-sided
sheltering, and (2) two-sided sheltering. In this example, no sheltering was
specified by entering the value O. Detailed information on the specification
of one-sided and two-sided sheltering are provided in Examples 3 through 5.
287. Next, the program prompts for the transformation option. The
response to this prompt determines whether or not the transformation operators
need to be computed, and, if so, whether they should be saved (written to a
disk file). The choices are: (1) perform transformation,save transformation
operators; (2) perform transformation using saved transformation operators;
and (3) perform transformation, but do not save transformation operators. In
this example, the value 1 is entered, indicating that the transformation
operators should be saved (written to a disk file) for use in another trans-
formation. If the response to this prompt is either 1 (as in this example) or
2, the program prompts for the file name (without the extension) associated
with the transformation operators. If transformation option 1 is selected,
the computed transformation operators will be written to the file name
specified (the file name extension automatically assigned by the program is
,0P3). If transformation option 2 is selected, the transformation operators
will be read from the specified file name (and the subroutines SPREF, OPR1,
0PR2, and COMBO will be skipped, resulting in significant savings in
computation time). In this example, the file name SAVOPTST is entered. After
entering this response, the WIS Phase III computations begin.
288. In this example, three output files are generated (REPORT.WP3,
OUTITST.PH3, and SAVOPTST,0P3). The contents of the output file REPORT.WP3
are shown in Figure 63. This file contains summary information including the
transformed Phase II station number, the Phase III station number, shoreline
orientation, Phase III water depth, and sheltering information, in addition to
specific information about the sea and swell wave conditions read from the
input file. REPORT.WP3 will be overwritten each time the program is executed.
Consequently, if the user wishes to save this information, the file must be
renamed. It is suggested that the extension .WP3 be preserved in the new file
name for organizational purposes.
289. The transformed Phase III time series is written to the output
file OUTITST.PH3, shown in Figure 64. This file name (without the file name
extension) was specified by the user at run time. The file contains

136
transformed wave conditions for each event in the input time series. Note in
Figure 64 that there is symmetry in both the transformed wave height and wave
angle. This correspondence results because similar symmetry existed in the
hypothetical Phase II input time series (shown in Figure 62). The coordinate
system for reporting the computed wave angles (Figure 64) is the same as the
standard WIS Phase III coordinate system. Valid Phase III wave angles vary
between O and 180 deg. Phase III wave angles increase from O in a counter-
clockwise direction to 180 deg with respect to the shoreline, as shown in
Figure 65.
290. The last output file (SAVOPTST.0P3) generated in this example
application contains both the input specifications and the calculated trans-
formation operators. This file is not shown herein because it is relatively
large (356 Kb), and the data are not particularly informative to the casual
observer. However, saving the transformation operators can result in signifi-
cant reduction in computation time if several input time series need to be
transformed to the identical Phase III station, as discussed in Example 2.

SEA AND SWELL INPUT DATA

TRANSFORMED PHASE 2 STATION NUMBER = A2028

PHASE 3 STATION NUMBER = 31A28
SHORELINE ANGLE = 0.00 DEGREES AZIMUTH
PHASE III WATER DEPTH - 10.00 (m)
SHELTERING INFORMATION
SHELTERING LEFT = 0.00 DEGREES
SHELTERING RIGHT = 180.00 DEGREES

SEA OUTPUT INFORMATION

NUMBER OF FINITE SEA (P2) CONDITIONS = 51

NUMBER OF CONDITIONS PROCESSED . 51
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS DEPTH LIMITED = 0
NUMBER OF ZERO SEA WAVE HEIGHTS = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS GT RIGHT SHELT = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS LT LEFT SHELT = 0

SWELL OUTPUT INFORMATION

NUMBER OF FINITE SWELL (P2) CONDITIONS = 51

NUMBER OF CONDITIONS PROCESSED — 51
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS DEPTH LIMITED = 0
NUMBER OF ZERO SWELL WAVE HEIGHTS = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS GT RIGHT SHELT = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS LT LEFT SHELT = 0

Figure 63. Example 1: Output file REPORT.WP3

137
 31A28 51
62010100 105.1 3.0 157.7 109.9 3.0 162.6
62010103 136.0 3.0 152.2 142.1 3.0 156.4
62010106 166.6 3.0 145.7 171.7 3.0 148.6
62010109 195.7 3.0 138.0 198,8 3.0 139.6
62010112 248.0 3.0 129.3 249.3 3.0 129.9
62010115 299.0 3.0 119.8 299.4 3.0 120.0
62010118 349.3 3.0 110.0 349.3 3.0 110.0
62010121 399.2 3.0 100.0 399.3 3.0 100.0
62010200 424.2 3.0 90.0 424.2 3.0 90.0
62010203 399.2 3.0 80.0 399.3 3.0 80.0
62010206 349.3 3.0 70.0 349.3 3.0 70.0
62010209 299.0 3.0 60.2 299.4 3.0 60.0
62010212 248.0 3.0 50.7 249.3 3.0 50.1
62010215 195.7 3.0 42.0 198.8 3.0 40.4
62010218 166.6 3.0 34.3 171.7 3.0 31.4
62010221 136.0 3.0 27.8 142.1 3.0 23.6
62010300 105.1 3.0 22.3 109.9 3.0 17.4
62010303 51.1 10.0 126.8 49.9 10.0 130.6
62010306 70.3 10.0 123.7 70.3 10.0 127.2
62010309 91.3 10.0 120.0 92.5 10.0 123.2
62010312 113.4 10.0 116.0 115.6 10.0 118.7
62010315 150.8 10.0 111.5 153.9 10.0 113.7
62010318 189.2 10.0 106.6 192.8 10.0 108.2
62010321 227.3 10.0 101.3 231.1 10.0 102.4
62010400 264.2 10.0 95.7 268.1 10.0 96.3
62010403 282.3 10.0 90.0 286.3 10.0 90.0
62010406 264.2 10.0 84.3 268.1 10.0 83.7
62010409 227.3 10.0 78.7 231.1 10.0 77.6
62010412 189.2 10.0 73.4 192.8 10.0 71.8
62010415 150.8 10.0 68.5 153.9 10.0 66.3
62010418 113.4 10.0 64.0 115.6 10.0 61.3
62010421 91.3 10.0 60.0 92.5 10.0 56.8
62010500 70.3 10.0 56.3 70.3 10.0 52.8
62010503 51.1 10.0 53.2 49.9 10.0 49.4
62010506 49.4 25.0 103.3 47.2 25.0 104.6
62010509 69.0 25.0 102.2 67.9 25.0 103.5
62010512 91.1 25.0 101.0 91.3 25.0 102.3
62010515 114.8 25.0 99.5 116.3 25.0 100.8
62010518 154.9 25.0 97.9 157.8 25.0 99.0
62010521 196.6 25.0 96.1 200.7 25.0 97.0
62010600 238.3 25.0 94.2 243.4 25.0 94.8
62010603 278.6 25.0 92.1 284.5 25.0 92.4
62010606 298.1 25.0 90.0 304.4 25.0 90.0
62010609 278.6 25.0 87.9 284.5 25.0 87.6
62010612 238.3 25.0 85.8 243.4 25.0 85.2
62010615 196.6 25.0 83.9 200.7 25.0 83.0
62010618 154.9 25.0 82.1 157.8 25.0 81.0
62010621 114.8 25.0 80.5 116.3 25.0 79.2
62010700 91.1 25.0 79.0 91.3 25.0 77.7
62010703 69.0 25.0 77.8 67.9 25.0 76.5
62010706 49.4 25.0 76.7 47.2 25.0 75.4

Figure 64. Example 1: output file OUTITST.PH3

138
 MIDPOINT OF PHASE Ill STATION SECTON

, SHORELINE
I
180° ----

150U

90°
Y 120°

Figure 65. Phase III wave angle coordinate system convention

291. The total computation time for this example, after specification
of the inputs, was approximately 40 min on a 386, 20-MHz PC with a math co-
processor. Of the total computation time, approximately 39 min were spent
creating the transformationoperators. On a 286 processor, 1O-MHZ PC without
a math co-processor, the computation time for this example is estimated (based
on previous work performed by WIS) at approximately 33 hr. This much longer
computation time is primarily due to the lack of a math co-processor;however,
the processor clock speed is also an important performance parameter.
Therefore, a PC equipped with a math co-processor is necessary for practical
use of this computer program.
292. Example 2. In this example, the transformation operators generat-
ed in Example 1 will be used to transform the same input time series (shown in
Figure 62) to the identically specified Phase III output station. The purpose
of this example is to demonstrate the utility of saving the transformation
operators when more than one input time series needs to be transformed to a
given Phase III output station.
293. Execution of the program is initiated by issuing the command
WAVETRAN at the prompt. The input specifications are nearly identical to
those specified in Example 1, except that transformation option 2 (perform
transformation using saved transformation operators) is selected. Regardless,
responses to the program prompts are as follows:

139
 a.
— Input file name: TESTWP3.DAT
b
-. Output file name: 0UT2TST
c.
— Input data format: 1 (SEAS)
-d. Shoreline orientation: O
e.
— Station identification code: 31B28
f
—. Input water depth: -999 (deepwater conditions)
Output water depth: 10
Sheltering option: O
Transformation option: 2
File name containing saved transformationoperators: SAVOPTST

294. After the above inputs are specified, the transformation computa-
tions begin. First, the input specifications listed above in items Q, cl,~,
g, and ~ are compared with those specified when the transformation operators
were generated. If there are no differences, the transformation computations
proceed; however, if differences are detected, the program writes the detected
differences (to the PC monitor) between the input specification and the
transformation operators and returns to the appropriate input prompt for re-
specification of the differing inputs. This checking procedure was developed
to preclude use of incorrect transformation operators.
295. The output files (REPORT.WP3 and 0UT2TST.PH3) for this example are
provided in Figures 66 and 67. These output are identical to those shown in
Figures 63 and 64, as they should be, because the inputs were the same. The
significant point of this example is that the computation time (after specifi-
cation of the inputs) was approximately 1 min.
296. Example 3. In this and the two remaining WAVETRAN examples, the
specification of one- and two-sided sheltering will be demonstrated. One- and
two-sided sheltering angles may be specified in 10-deg increments. Phase III
wave energy sheltering is specified by selecting either sheltering option 1
(one-sided sheltering) or Z (two-sided sheltering). If the response to the
sheltering option prompt is 1, then the program issues a prompt for the one-
sided sheltering angle key (KSHI). If the response to the sheltering option
is 2, then the program issues a prompt for the one-sided (KSHl) and two-sided
(KSH2) zngle keys. Table 2 provides a listing of the valid one- and two-sided
sheltering angle keys.

140
 297. In this example the input time series shown in Figure 62 will be
used as input, and one-sided sheltering between O and 30 deg will be speci-
fied. Responses to the program prompts are as follows:
a.
— Input file name: TESTWP3.DAT
b.
— Output file name: 0UT3TST
c.
— Input data format: 1 (SEAS)
d.
— Shoreline orientation: O
e.
— Station identification code: 31C28
f.
— Input water depth: -999 (deepwater conditions)
g. Output water depth: 10
h.
— Sheltering option: 1
~. One-sided sheltering key (KSH1): 3

i. Transformation option: 3

298. At this point, all the required inputs have been specified, and
the Phase III transformationbegins. Note in line h (prompt for sheltering

SEA AND SWELL INPUT DATA

TRANSFORMED PHASE 2 STATION NUMBER = A2028

PHME 3 STATION NUMBER = 31B28
SHORELINE ANGLE = 0.00 DEGREES AZIMUTH
PHME III WATER DEPTH = 10.00 (m)
SHELTERING INFORMATION
SHELTERING LEFT = 0.00 DEGREES
SHELTERING RIGHT = 180.00 DEGREES

SEA OUTPUT INFORMATION

NUMBER OF FINITE SEA (P2) CONDITIONS = 51

NUMBER OF CONDITIONS PROCESSED —
. 51
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS DEPTH LIMITED = 0
NUMBER OF ZERO SEA WAVE HEIGHTS = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS GT RIGHT SHELT = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS LT LEFT SHELT = 0

SWELL OUTPUT INFORMATION

NUMBER OF FINITE SWELL (P2) CONDITIONS = 51

NUMBER OF CONDITIONS PROCESSED — 51
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS DEPTH LIMITED = 0
NUMBER OF ZERO SWELL WAVE HEIGHTS = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS GT RIGHT SHELT = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS LT LEFT SHELT = 0

Figure 66. Example 2: Output file REPORT.WP3

141
 31B28 51
62010100 105.1 3.0 157.7 109.9 3.0 162.6
62010103 136.0 3.0 152.2 142.1 3.0 156.4
62010106 166.6 3.0 145.7 171.7 3.0 148.6
62010109 195.7 3.0 138.0 198.8 3.0 139.6
62010112 248.0 3.0 129.3 249.3 3.0 129.9
62010115 299.0 3.0 119.8 299.4 3.0 120.0
62010118 349.3 3.0 110.0 349.3 3.0 110.0
62010121 399.2 3.0 100.0 399.3 3.0 100.0
62010200 424.2 3.0 90.0 424.2 3.0 90.0
62010203 399.2 3.0 80.0 399.3 3.0 80.0
62010206 349.3 3.0 70.0 349.3 3.0 70.0
62010209 299.0 3.0 60.2 299.4 3.0 60.0
62010212 248.0 3.0 50.7 249.3 3.0 50.1
62010215 195.7 3.0 42.0 198.8 3.0 40.4
62010218 166.6 3.0 34.3 171.7 3.0 31.4
62010221 136.0 3.0 27.8 142.1 3.0 23.6
62010300 105.1 3.0 22.3 109.9 3.0 17.4
62010303 51.1 10.0 126.8 49.9 10.0 130.6
62010306 70.3 10.0 123.7 70.3 10.0 127.2
62010309 91.3 10.0 120.0 92.5 10.0 123.2
62010312 113.4 10.0 116.0 115.6 10.0 118.7
62010315 150.8 10.0 111.5 153.9 10.0 113.7
62010318 189.2 10.0 106.6 192.8 10.0 108.2
62010321 227.3 10.0 101.3 231.1 10.0 102.4
62010400 264.2 10.0 95.7 268.1 10.0 96.3
62010403 282.3 10.0 90.0 286.3 10.0 90.0
62010406 264.2 10.0 84.3 268.1 10.0 83.7
62010409 227.3 10.0 78.7 231.1 10.0 77.6
62010412 189.2 10.0 73.4 192.8 10.0 71.8
62010415 150.8 10.0 68.5 153.9 10.0 66.3
62010418 113.4 10.0 64.0 115.6 10.0 61.3
62010421 91.3 10.0 60.0 92.5 10.0 56.8
62010500 70.3 10.0 56.3 70.3 10.0 52.8
62010503 51.1 10.0 53.2 49.9 10.0 49.4
62010506 49.4 25.0 103.3 47.2 25.0 104.6
62010509 69.0 25.0 102.2 67.9 25.0 103.5
62010512 91.1 25.0 101.0 91.3 25.0 102.3
62010515 114.8 25.0 99.5 116.3 25.0 100.8
62010518 154.9 25.0 97.9 157.8 25.0 99.0
62010521 196.6 25.0 96.1 200.7 25.0 97.0
62010600 238.3 25.0 94.2 243.4 25.0 94.8
62010603 278.6 25.0 92.1 284.5 25.0 92.4
62010606 298.1 25.0 90.0 304.4 25.0 90.0
62010609 278.6 25.0 87.9 284.5 25.0 87.6
62010612 238.3 25.0 85.8 243.4 25.0 85.2
62010615 196.6 25.0 83.9 200.7 25.0 83.0
62010618 154.9 25.0 82.1 157.8 25.0 81.0
62010621 114.8 25.0 80.5 116.3 25.0 79.2
62010700 91.1 25.0 79.0 91.3 25.0 77.7
62010703 69.0 25.0 77.8 67.9 25.0 76.5
62010706 49.4 25.0 76.7 47.2 25.0 75.4

Figure 67. Example 2: Output file 0UT2TST.PH3

142
.“:

IL
*,

Table 2
Sheltering Angle Specification (Keys)

Sheltering l-sided Sheltering 2-sided Sheltering Sheltered Wave

option (KSH) Key (KHsl) Key (KSH2) - An~les, de~
o not required not required none
1 1 not required o-1o
1 2 not required 0-20
1 3 not required 0-30
1 4 not required 0 - 40
1 5 not required 0-50
1 6 not required 0-60
1 7 not required 0 - 70
1 8 not required 0-80
1 9 not required 0-90
1 10 not required 80 - 180
1 11 not required 90 - 180
1 12 not required 100 - 180
1 13 not required 110 - 180
1 14 not required 120 - 180
1 15 not required 130 - 180
1 16 not required 140 - 180
1 17 not required 150 - 180
1 18 not required 160 - 180
1 19 not required 170 - 180
2 any value 1 thru 9 10 above & 80-180
2 any value 1 thru 9 11 above & 90-180
2 any value 1 thru 9 12 above & 100-180
2 any value 1 thru 9 13 above & 110-180
2 any value 1 thru 9 14 above & 120-180
2 any value 1 thru 9 15 above & 130-180
2 any value 1 thru 9 16 above & 140-180
2 any value 1 thru 9 17 above & 150-180
2 any value 1 thru 9 18 above & 160-180
2 any value 1 thru 9 19 above & 170-180

option) that the value ~ was entered indicating the user-required specifica-
tion of one-sided sheltering. The next prompt (line ~) requested specifica-
tion of the one-sided sheltering key (KSHI), and the value 3 was entered,
indicating that wave energy between() and 30 deg should be sheltered (removed
from the spectra). Also, note in line j (prompt for transformation option)
that the value 3 was entered, indicating that the transformation operators
should not be saved. This response will prohibit the transformation operators
from being written to a disk file, which may be desirable in a situation where
disk space is limited or if only one input time series needs to be trans-
formed.

143
 299. The results of this example are written to the files REPORT.WP3
and 0UT3TST,PH3, and listings are provided in Figures 68 and 69. Note in
Figure 68 that the left-side sheltering angle is 30 deg, which verifies that
the wave energy between O and 30 deg was removed from the spectra. Also note
in Figure 69 that the sea wave condition propagating normal to the shore in
deep water (on 62010200) is slightly to the right of shore-normal at the
Phase III station and that symmetry in the wave heights and angles is no
longer evident. Both of these conditions result from the specified wave
energy sheltering.
300. Example 4. In this example, the input time series shown in
Figure 62 will again be used as input, and one-sided sheltering between 150
and 180 deg will be specified. Responses to the program prompts are as
follows:
a.
— Input file name: TESTWP3.DAT
b
—. Output file name: 0UT4TST
c.
— Input data format: 1 (SEAS)
d.
— Shoreline orientation: O
e.
— Station identification code: 31D28
f
—. Input water depth: -999 (deepwater conditions)
g. Output water depth: 10
h
—. Sheltering option: 1
~. One-sided sheltering key (KSHl): 17
i. Transformation option: 3

301. At this point, all the required inputs have been specified, and
the Phase III transformation begins. Note that in line ~ the value 17 was
entered as the response to the prompt for the one-sided sheltering key (KSHI).
This entry specifies that wave energy between 150 and 180 deg (see Table 2)
should be removed from the spectra.
302. The results of this example are written to the files REPORT.WP3
and 0UT4TST.PH3, and listings are provided in Figures 70 and 71. Note in Fig-
ure 70 that the right-side sheltering angle is 150 deg, which verifies that
the wave energy between 150 and 180 deg was removed from the spectra. Again
note the shift in the sea wave condition (on 6201O2OO, compare Figures 62 and
71) from normal to the shore in deep water to slightly to the left of shore-
normal at the Phase III station. Comparing Figures 71 and 69, the wave
heights from north to south in Figure 69 are identical to those from south to

144
 SEA AND SWELL INPUT DATA

TRANSFORMED PHASE 2 STATION NUMBER = A2028

PH/ME 3 STATION NUMBER = 31C28
SHORELINE ANGLE = 0.00 DEGREES AZIMUTH
PHASE III WATER DEPTH = 10.00 (m)
SHELTERING INFORMATION
SHELTERING LEFT = 30.00 DEGREES
SHELTERING RIGHT = 180.00 DEGREES

SEA OUTPUT INFORMATION

NUMBER OF FINITE SEA (P2) CONDITIONS = 51

NUMBER OF CONDITIONS PROCESSED 51
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS DEPTH LIMITED = 0
NUMBER OF ZERO SEA WAVE HEIGHTS = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS GT RIGHT SHELT = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS LT LEFT SHELT = 0

SWELL OUTPUT INFORMATION

NUMBER OF FINITE SWELL (P2) CONDITIONS = 51

NUMBER OF CONDITIONS PROCESSED . 51
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS DEPTH LIMITED = 0
NUMBER OF ZERO SWELL WAVE HEIGHTS = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS GT RIGHT SHELT = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS LT LEFT SHELT = 0

Figure 68. Example 3: Output file REPORT.WP3

north in Figure 71 (compare wave sea and swell wave heights from 62010100 to
62010300 in Figure 69 to those from 62010300 to 62010100 in Figure 71). Also,
the shift in wave angle from shore-normal (90 deg) is identical in the same
manner. This comparison demonstrates that the wave energy sheltering algo-
rithm is being applied identically on both sides.
303. Exam~le 5. In this example, two-sided sheltering (between O and
30 deg on the left, and between 150 and 180 deg on the right) is specified in
the transformation of the input time series shown in Figure 62. Responses to
the program prompts are as follows:
a.
— Input file name: TESTWP3.DAT
b
—. Output file name: 0UT5TST
c.
— Input data format: 1 (SEAS)
d.
— Shoreline orientation: O
e.
— Station identification code: 31E28

145
 31C28 51
62010100 105.1 3.0 157.7 110,0 3.0 162.6
62010103 136.0 3.0 152.2 142.1 3.0 156.4
62010106 166.6 3.0 145.7 171.7 3.0 148.6
62010109 195.7 3.0 138.0 198.8 3.0 139.6
62010112 248.0 3.0 129.3 249.? 3.0 129.9
62010115 299.0 3.0 119.8 299,4 3.0 120.0
62010118 349.3 3.0 110.0 349.3 3.0 110.0
62010121 399.2 3.0 100.0 399.3 3.0 100.0
62010200 423.7 3.0 90.1 424,2 3.0 90.0
62010203 397.0 3.0 80.6 399.1 3.0 80.0
62010206 342.9 3.0 71.9 348.2 3.0 70.3
62010209 286.0 3.0 64.2 294.8 3.0 61.3
62010212 227.2 3.0 57.7 237.3 3.0 53.5
62010215 168.6 3.0 52.2 176.4 3,0 47.2
62010218 132.3 3.0 47.7 135,4 3.0 42.4
62010221 97.7 3.0 43.9 94.5 3.0 38.8
62010300 66.8 3.0 40.7 58.3 3.0 36.1
62010303 51.1 10.0 126.8 49.9 10.0 130.6
62010306 70.3 10.0 123.7 70.3 10.0 127.2
62010309 91.3 10.0 120.0 92.5 10.0 123.2
62010312 113.4 10.0 116.0 115.6 10.0 118.7
62010315 150.8 10.0 111.5 153.9 10,0 113.7
62010318 189.2 10.0 106.6 192.8 10.0 108.2
62010321 227.3 10.0 101.3 231.1 10.0 102.4
62010400 264.2 10.0 95.7 268.1 10.0 96.3
62010403 282.1 10.0 90.0 286.3 10.0 90.0
62010406 263.5 10.0 84.5 268.1 10.0 83.8
62010409 225.5 10.0 79.3 230.7 10.0 77.7
62010412 185.5 10.0 74.5 191.3 10.0 72.1
62010415 144.9 10.0 70.4 150.2 10.0 67.3
62010418 105.7 10.0 66.8 108.8 10.0 63.3
62010421 81.5 10.0 63.8 81.5 10.0 60.1
62010500 59.1 10.0 61.3 55.6 10.0 57.7
62010503 39.7 10.0 59.1 33.7 10.0 55.9
62010506 49.4 25.0 103.3 47.2 25.0 104.6
62010509 69.0 25.0 102.2 67.9 25.0 103.5
62010512 91.1 25.0 101.0 91.3 25.0 102.3
62010515 114.8 25.0 99.5 116.3 25.0 100.8
62010518 154.9 25.0 97.9 157.8 25.0 99.0
62010521 196.6 25.0 96.1 200.7 25.0 97.0
62010600 238.3 25.0 94.2 243.4 25.0 94.8
62010603 278.5 25.0 92.1 284.5 25.0 92.4
62010606 298.0 25.0 90.0 304.4 25.0 90.0
62010609 278.0 25.0 87.9 284.4 25.0 87.6
62010612 236.8 25.0 86.0 243.1 25.0 85.3
62010615 193.5 25.0 84.2 199.5 25.0 83.1
62010618 150.1 25.0 82.6 154.7 25.0 81.3
62010621 108.5 25.0 81.2 110.6 25.0 79.8
62010700 83.0 25.0 80.1 81.9 25.0 78.6
62010703 59.7 25.0 79.1 55.3 25.0 77.7
62010706 39.8 25.0 78.2 33.2 25.0 77.1

Figure 69. Example 3: Output file 0UT3TST.PH3

146
 f.
— Input water depth: -999 (deepwater conditions)
g. Output water depth: 10
h
—. Sheltering option: 2
~. Two-sided sheltering keys (KSH1 and KSH2): 3,17
i. Transformation option: 3

304. The responses shown on lines ~ and i specify the requirement for
two-sided sheltering. Note on line ~ that two values are entered. The first
value (3) specifies the sheltering of wave energy from O to 30 deg, and the
second value (17) specifies the sheltering of wave energy from 150 to 180 deg.
The order of the two-sided sheltering angle keys is important. The first key
(KSH1) is valid between 1 and 9 and should always be entered first; the second
key (KSH2) is valid between 10 and 19 (see Table 2) and should always be
entered last.

SEA AND SWELL INPUT DATA

TWSFORMED PHASE 2 STATION NUMBER = A2028

PWSE 3 STATION NUMBER = 31D28
SHORELINE ANGLE = 0.00 DEGREES AZIMUTH
PHME III WATER DEPTH = 10.00 (m)
SHELTERING INFORMATION
SHELTERING LEFT = 0.00 DEGREES
SHELTERING RIGHT = 150.00 DEGREES

SEA OUTPUT INFORMATION

NUMBER OF FINITE SEA (P2) CONDITIONS = 51

NUMBER OF CONDITIONS PROCESSED — 51
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS DEPTH LIMITED = 0
NUMBER OF ZERO SEA WAVE HEIGHTS = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS GT RIGHT SHELT = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS LT LEFT SHELT = 0

SWELL OUTPUT INFORMATION

NUMBER OF FINITE SWELL (P2) CONDITIONS = 51

NUMBER OF CONDITIONS PROCESSED .
— 51
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS DEPTH LIMITED = 0
NUMBER OF ZERO SWELL WAVE HEIGHTS = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS GT RIGHT SHELT = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS LT LEFT SHELT = 0

Figure 70. Example 4: Output file REPORT.WP3

147
 31D28 51
62010100 66.8 3.0 139.3 58.3 3.0 143.9
62010103 97.7 3.0 136.1 94.5 3.0 141.2
62010106 132.3 3.0 132.3 135.4 3.0 137.6
62010109 168.6 3.0 127.8 176.4 3.0 132.8
62010112 227.2 3.0 122.3 237.3 3.0 126.5
62010115 286.0 3.0 115.8 294.8 3.0 118.7
62010118 342.9 3.0 108.1 348.2 3.0 109.7
62010121 397.0 3.0 99.4 399.1 3.0 100.0
62010200 423.7 3.0 89.9 424.2 3.0 90.0
62010203 399.2 3.0 80.0 399.3 3.0 80.0
62010206 349.3 3.0 70.0 349.3 3.0 70.0
62010209 299.0 3.0 60.2 299.4 3.0 60.0
62010212 248.0 3.0 50.7 249.3 3.0 50.1
62010215 195.7 3.0 42.0 198.8 3.0 40.4
62010218 166.6 3.0 34.3 171.7 3.0 31.4
62010221 136.0 3.0 27.8 142.1 3.0 23.6
62010300 105.1 3.0 22.3 110.0 3.0 17.4
62010303 39.7 10.0 120.9 33.7 10.0 124.1
62010306 59.1 10.0 118.7 55.6 10.0 122.3
62010309 81.5 10.0 116.2 81.5 10.0 119.9
62010312 105.7 10.0 113.2 108.8 10.0 116.7
62010315 144.9 10.0 109.6 150.2 10.0 112.7
62010318 185.5 10,0 105.5 191.3 10.0 107.9
62010321 225.5 10,0 100.7 230.7 10.0 102.3
62010400 263.5 10.0 95.5 268.1 10.0 96.2
62010403 282.1 10.0 90.0 286.3 10.0 90.0
62010406 264.2 10.0 84.3 268.1 10.0 83.7
62010409 227.3 10.0 78.7 231.1 10.0 77.6
62010412 189.2 10.0 73.4 192.8 10.0 71.8
62010415 150.8 10.0 68.5 153.9 10.0 66.3
62010418 113.4 10.0 64.0 115.6 10.0 61.3
62010421 91.3 10.0 60.0 92.5 10.0 56.8
62010500 70.3 10.0 56.3 70.3 10.0 52.8
62010503 51.1 10,0 53.2 49.9 10.0 49.4
62010506 39.8 25.0 101.8 33.2 25.0 102.9
62010509 59.7 25.0 100.9 55.3 25.0 102.3
62010512 83.0 25.0 99.9 81.9 25.0 101.4
62010515 108.5 25.0 98.8 110.6 25.0 100.2
62010518 150.1 25.0 97.4 154.7 25.0 98.7
62010521 193.5 25.0 95.8 199.5 25.0 96.9
62010600 236.8 25.0 94.0 243.1 25.0 94.7
62010603 278.0 25.0 92.1 284.4 25.0 92.4
62010606 298.0 25.0 90.0 304.4 25.0 90.0
62010609 278.5 25.0 87.9 284.5 25.0 87.6
62010612 238.3 25.0 85.8 243.4 25.0 85.2
62010615 196.6 25.0 83.9 200.7 25.0 83.0
62010618 154.9 25.0 82.1 157.8 25.0 81.0
62010621 114.8 25.0 80.5 116.3 25.0 79.2
62010700 91.1 25.0 79.0 91.3 25.0 77.7
62010703 69.0 25.0 77.8 67.9 25.0 76.5
62010706 49.4 25.0 76.7 47.2 25.0 75.4

Figure 71. Example 4: Output file 0UT4TST.PH3

148
 305. Figures 72 and 73 contain listings of the output files REPORT,WP3
and 0UT5TST.PH3 generated in this example transformation. Figure 72 shows
that the left-sheltering angle is 30 deg, indicating that wave e~ergy between
O and 30 deg is removed from the spectra and that the right-shelrsringangle
is 150 deg, which in turn indicates that wave energy between 150 and 180 deg
is removed from the spectra during the transformation from the Phase II
station to the Phase III station.
306. In Figure 73, note that after the transformation,which in this
example included symmetrical sheltering, symmetry is again apparent in both
wave height and angle. Also note that the estimated Phase III wzve heights
and angles (Figure 73) to the right of shore-normal are the same as those
calculated in Example 4 (Figure 71); likewise, estimated Phase III wave
heights and angles (Figure 73) to the left of shore-normal are identical to
those calculated in Example 3 (Figure 69). This comparison again demonstrates
that the algorithm for the sheltering of wave energy is implemented in the
same manner for both one- and two-sided sheltering.
Summary
307. The WIS Phase III methodology implemented through the use of the
program WAVETRAN as discussed above is a powerful tool available to the
coastal engineer engaged in a shoreline change modeling study using GENESIS or
any other shoreline change model. WAVETRAN allows for the transformationof
hindcast wave estimates from one station to another in shallower water.
Furthermore, wave energy sheltering by land, shallow shoals, and, to some
extent, structures located well offshore and to the left or right of the
immediate project reach can be represented by specifying sheltering angles in
10-deg increments. Sheltering angles should be evaluated by locating the
project reach on a regional map and plotting potential sheltering angles.
Potential longshore sand transport rates should then be calculated to deter-
mine the amount and consistency of the applied sheltering. The modeler is
cautioned, however, not to use this program arbitrarily simply to achieve a
desired result. A computer program should never be relied upon as a substi-
tute for sound engineering analysis, and all input specifications,particular-
ly sheltering, should be founded on the physical or geological setting-of the
particular project site.

149
 SEA AND SWELL INPUT DATA

TRANSFORMED PHASE 2 STATION NUMBER = A2028

PHASE 3 STATION NUMBER = 31E28
SHORELINE ANGLE = 0.00 DEGREES AZIMUTH
PHASE III WATER DEPTH = 10.00 (m)
SHELTERING INFORMATION
SHELTERING LEFT = 30.00 DEGREES
SHELTERING RIGHT = 150.00 DEGREES

SEA OUTPUT INFORMATION

NUMBER OF FINITE SEA (P2) CONDITIONS = 51

NUMBER OF CONDITIONS PROCESSED — 51
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS DEPTH LIMITED = 0
NUMBER OF ZERO SEA WAVE HEIGHTS . 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS GT RIGHT SHELT = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS LT LEFT SHELT = 0

SWELL OUTPUT INFORMATION

NUMBER OF FINITE SWELL (P2) CONDITIONS = 51

NUMBER OF CONDITIONS PROCESSED — 51
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS DEPTH LIMITED = 0
NUMBER OF ZERO SWELL WAVE HEIGHTS = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS GT RIGHT SHELT = 0
NUMBER OF CONDITIONS LT LEFT SHELT = 0

Figure 72. Example 5: Output file REPORT.WP3

WTWAVTS

Introduction
308. The program WTWAVTS is a utility program that allows manipulation
of disk files containing wave data in the form of a time series. The program
can select a specific time interval within a time series with a given time-
step znd write a new time series with a new time-step. For example, suppose
that a 5-year-long time series at a time-step of 3 hr is given and the goal is
to calculate the potential longshore sand transport rate of the third year
using a time-step of 6 hr; the program WTWAVTS creates this specific l-year-
long time series with a 6-hr time-step. Then the program SEDTRAN (presented
in Paut 111) can be used to calculate the potential longshore sand transport
rate. WTWAVTS (through successive runs) can also be used to create a 1O- or
20-year-long time series with a 6- or 9-hr time-step from ten or twenty 1-
year-long time series with a 3-hr time-step. The file handling utility of

150
 31E28 51
62010100 66.8 3.0 139.3 58.3 3.0 143.9
62010103 97.7 3.0 136.1 94.5 3.0 141.2
62010106 132.3 3.0 132.3 135.4 3.0 137.6
62010109 168.6 3.0 127.8 176.4 3.0 132.8
62010112 227.2 3.0 122.3 237.3 3.0 126.5
62010115 286.0 3.0 115.8 294.8 3.0 118.7
62010118 342.9 3.0 108.1 348.2 3.0 109.7
62010121 396.9 3.0 99.4 399.1 3.0 100.0
62010200 423.3 3.0 90.0 424.2 3.0 90.0
62010203 397.0 3.0 80.6 399.1 3.0 80.0
62010206 342.9 3.0 71.9 348.2 3.0 70.3
62010209 286.0 3.0 64.2 294.8 3.0 61.3
62010212 227.2 3.0 57.7 237.3 3.0 53.5
62010215 168.6 3.0 52.2 176.4 3.0 47.2
62010218 132.3 3.0 47.7 135.4 3.0 42.4
62010221 97.7 3.0 43.9 94.5 3.0 38.8
62010300 66.8 3.0 40.7 58.3 3.0 36.1
62010303 39.7 10.0 120.9 33.7 10.0 124.1
62010306 59.1 10.0 118.7 55.6 10.0 122.3
62010309 81.5 10.0 116.2 81.5 10.0 119.9
62010312 105.7 10.0 113.2 108.8 10.0 116.7
62010315 144.9 10.0 109.6 150.2 10.0 112.7
62010318 185.5 10.0 105.5 191.3 10.0 107.9
62010321 225.5 10.0 100.7 230.7 10.0 102.3
62010400 263.5 10.0 95.5 268.1 10.0 96.2
62010403 282.0 10.0 90.0 286.3 10.0 90.0
62010406 263.5 10.0 84.5 268.1 10.0 83.8
62010409 225.5 10.0 79.3 230.7 10.0 77.7
62010412 185.5 10.0 74.5 191.3 10.0 72.1
62010415 144.9 10.0 70.4 150.2 10.0 67.3
62010418 105.7 10.0 66.8 108.8 10.0 63.3
62010421 81.5 10.0 63.8 81.5 10.0 60.1
62010500 59.1 10.0 61.3 55.6 10.0 57.7
62010503 39.7 10.0 59.1 33.7 10.0 55.9
62010506 39.8 25.0 101.8 33.2 25.0 102.9
62010509 59.7 25.0 100.9 55.3 25.0 102.3
62010512 83.0 25.0 99.9 81.9 25.0 101.4
62010515 108.5 25.0 98.8 110.6 25.0 100.2
62010518 150.1 25.0 97.4 154.7 25.0 98.7
62010521 193.5 25.0 95.8 199.5 25.0 96.9
62010600 236.8 25.0 94.0 243.1 25.0 94.7
62010603 278.0 25.0 92.1 284.4 25.0 92.4
62010606 297.9 25.0 90.0 304.4 25.0 90.0
62010609 278.0 25.0 87.9 284.4 25.0 87.6
62010612 236.8 25.0 86.0 243.1 25.0 85.3
62010615 193.5 25.0 84.2 199.5 25.0 83.1
62010618 150.1 25.0 82.6 154.7 25.0 81.3
62010621 108.5 25.0 81.2 110.6 25.0 79.8
62010700 83.0 25.0 80.1 81.9 25.0 78.6
62010703 59.7 25.0 79.1 55.3 25.0 77.7
62010706 39.8 25.0 78.2 33.2 25.0 77.1

Figure 73. Example 5: Output file 0UT5TST.PH3

151
this program is demonstrated through six example applicz:ions in the following
sections, but first a short explanation of the program fiow is provided in the
following section.
Calculation Procedure
309. Either the program WTWAVTS copies data from an existing user-
specified file (the input time series) to a M user-specified file (the
output time series), or it copies data from an existing user-specified file
(the input time series) and appends it to an existing user-specified file (the
output file). In the case where data are to be appended to an existing file,
the data in the existing output file are first copied to a “scratch” file to
preserve it. Then the file header information is updated, and the old data
are copied from the “scratch” file to the existing output file; finally, the
new data are copied from the input file to the updated output file. Prior to
copying wave data from the input file (or updating the output file header),
the input file is scanned to verify that the time interval specified exists
within the input time series. If the specified time interval (beginning and
ending dates) is not found, the program terminates and reports the reason for
termination to the PC monitor. Input requirements beyond specification of the
input and output file names include: (a) input file format; (b) time-step of
input time series; (c) if the input file is not a SEAS or CEDRS file, then the
number of events per record (i.e., sea, swell, or both); (d) if the output
file exists, whether to append or overwrite it; (e) the time interval to be
copied from the input time series; and (f) the time-step associated with the
new time series. The time-step of the new time series must be equal to or an
even multiple of the time-step of the input time series. Output from the
program WTWAVTS is either a new time series or an updated existing time
series. Operation of the program is demonstrated in the following section.
Example a~Dlications
310. The operation and utility of the program WTWAVTS will now be
demonstrated through six example applications. The examples use as input all
five of the allowed input time series formats. Examples 3 and 5 demonstrate
the append option, whereas Example 4 demonstrates the overwrite option.
311. ExamDle 1. In this example, a standard SEAS ir.puttime series
comprises the input. The file name of this input time series is WVSEAS.DAT
and is the same input file used in the RCRIT Example 1 (file listing provided

152
 ,,
‘?

in Figure 12) in Part III. Execution of the program is initiated by issuing

the command WTWAVTS at the PC prompt.
312. The program responds by prompting for the input file name and
extension. If the input file is not located in the default directory, the
appropriate path should also be entered. For this example, the name
WVSEAS.DAT is entered. This file must exist (it represents the input), or the
program will terminate.
313. The next prompt issued by the program requests the user to define
the input data format. The available options are: (1) SEAS, (2) OUTPUT FROM
ANOTHER WORKBOOK CODE (Header and Format similar to SEAS), (3) CEDRS, (4) OUT-
PUT FROM ANOTHER WORKBOOK CODE (Header and Format similar to CEDRS), and
(5) other. In the present example, the input time series was retrieved using
SEAS, so the value 1 is entered.
314. The program then prompts for the time-step of the input time
series. The time-step of this time series is 3 hr (see Figure 12), so the
value 3 is entered.
315. Next, the program prompts for the file name of the output time
series; in this example, the file name WTOUT1 is entered. Note that the
output file name extension is ~ requested and should not be entered. The
program will automatically assign the extension .OTS (representingoffshore
time series) to all output time series. This file may or may not exist,
because the program scans the default directory (or the specific directory
entered together with the output file name) to determine the existence of the
file. If the file is found, the program will ask if the file should be
appended. If the response is positive, the file will be appended. If the
response is negative, the program will ask if the file should be overwritten.
If the user responds to this question positively, the file will be overwrit-
ten, and the data in the file will be lost. If the user responds negatively,
the program will request entry of a new output file name. Examples 3, 4, and
5 will review each of these options associated with an existing output file.
In this example, the directory scan determines that the file does not already
exist, so the program creates the file WTOUT1.OTS.
316. The program then requests the time interval of the new (output)
time series. First, the program prompts for the starting date; in this
example, the value 62030500 (1962, March 5, midnight) is entered. This is the
first record in the input time series (Figure 12). Next, the program prompts

153
for the ending data; and the value 62031015 (1962, March 10, 3:00 p.m.) is
entered. This is the 46th record in the input time series. The required
format of the date specifications is (YYMMDDHH) and is defined as follows:
the first two characters (YY) are the year specification, the next two
characters (MM) are the month specification, the next two characters (DD) are
the day specification, and the last two characters (HH) are the hour
specification.
317. The last prompt issued by the program before the output time
series is copied from the input time series requests input of the required
time-step of the output time series. This value must be either equal to or an
even multiple of the time-step of the input time series. In this example, the
value 9 is entered, indicating that the required time-step of the output time
series is 9 hr.
318. At this point all the required program inputs have been specified.
First, the program reads the station identification code from the input time
series header. Then the program scans the input time series for the specified
starting and ending dates, and at the same time counts the number of records
that will be contained in the output time series. After finding the beginning
and ending records of the new time series, the program writes the file header,
which consists of the station identification code and the number of records.
Then the input time series is rewound, and the new time series is copied from
the input time series. In the present example, the first and then every third
record encountered in the input time series is copied to the user-specified
output file. When the specified ending date (62031015) is encountered, the
program terminates.
319. A listing of the new time series created by this example applica-
tion of the program WTWAVTS is provided in Figure 74. Note that the specified
beginning and ending dates are included in the new time series and that the
time-step is indeed 9 hr, as specified.
320. Example 2. In this example, the Phase 111 time series generated
in WAVETRAN Example 1 and listed in Figure 64 will serve as the input time
series. Responses to the program prompts are as follows:
a.
— Input file name: olJ’TITsT.PH3
b.
— Input data format: 2 (OUTPUT FROM ANOTHER WORKBOOK CODE;
header and format similar to SEAS)
c
—. Number of events per record: 2

154
 d.
— Time-step of input time series: 3
e.
— Output file name: WTOUT2
f
—. Beginning date of output time series: 6~0~0~00
i%. Ending date of output time series: 62010300
h
—. Time-step of output time series: 3

321. Note in line Q of the user responses that the progran requests
entry of the number of events per record. This prompt was not required in
Example 1 because the input time series was retrieved from the original WIS
data base, which always contains two events per record. However, because the
input time series in this example was generated by another workbook program,
the number of events per record is unknown and must be specified by the user.
322. At this point, all the required inputs have been specified and the
program begins to process the output time series. The sequence of events as
described above (in Example 1) is performed, and the output time series is
created. In this example, however, each event between the dates 62010100 and
62010300 inclusive is written to the output file WTOUT2.OTS. A listing of
this output time series is provided in Figure 75. This time series will be
appended in the next example, but to preserve this original time series, the
file WTOUT2.OTS was copied to the file WTOUT3.OTS by issuing the command:
COPY WTOUT2.OTS WTOUT3.OTS from the default directory.
323. Example 3. In this example, the time series generated in Exam-
ple 2 (which was copied to the file named WTOUT3.OTS) will be appended with a

A2028 16
62030500 40.0 3.0 341.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030509 66.0 4.0 48.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030518 89.0 4.0 65.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030603 295.0 7.0 69.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030612 398.0 8.0 71.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030621 743.0 9.0 44.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030706 325.0 7.0 25.0 624.0 13.0 77.0
62030715 426.0 7.0 27.0 610.0 13.0 77.0
62030800 398.0 7.0 27.0 535.0 13.0 74.0
62030809 293.0 7.0 24.0 494.0 13.0 71.0
62030818 254.0 6.0 22.0 385.0 13.0 67.0
62030903 263.0 7.0 44.0 255.0 11.0 69.0
62030912 101.0 4.0 90.0 189.0 10.0 72.0
62030921 101.0 4.0 66.0 133.0 9.0 77.0
62031006 165.0 5.0 34.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62031015 140.0 4.0 359.0 0.0 0.0 0.0

Figure 74. WTWAVTS Example 1: Output file WTOUT1.OTS

155
 31A28 17
62010100 105.1 3.0 157.7 110.0 3.0 162.6
62010103 136.0 3.0 152.2 142.1 3.0 156.4
62010106 166.6 3.0 145.7 171.7 3.0 148.6
62010109 195.7 3.0 138.0 198.8 3.0 139.6
62010112 248.0 3.0 129.3 249.3 3.0 129.9
62010115 299.0 3.0 119.8 299.4 3.0 120.0
62010118 349.3 3.0 110.0 349.3 3.0 110.0
62010121 399.2 3.0 100.0 399.3 3.0 100.0
62010200 424.2 3.0 90.0 424.2 3.0 90.0
62010203 399.2 3.0 80.0 399.3 3.0 80.0
62010206 349.3 3.0 70.0 349.3 3.0 70.0
62010209 299.0 3.0 60.2 299.4 3.0 60.0
62010212 248.0 3.0 50.7 249.3 3.0 50.1
62010215 195.7 3.0 42.0 198.8 3.0 40.4
62010218 166.6 3.0 34.3 171.7 3.0 31.4
62010221 136.0 3.0 27.8 142.1 3.0 23.6
62010300 105.1 3.0 22.3 110.0 3.0 17.4

Figure 75. WTWAVTS Example 2: Output file WTOUT2.OTS

Phase III time series selected from the output time series generated in
WAVETRAN Example 5 and listed in Figure 73. Responses to the program prompts
are as follows:
a.
— Input file name: 0UT5TST.PH3
b.
— Input data format: 2 (OUTPUT FROM ANOTHER WORKBOOK CODE;
header and format similar to SEAS)
c.
— Number of events per record: 2
d.
— Time-step of input time series: 3
e.
— Output file name: WTOUT3
f.
— Append this file? : Y
~. Beginning date of output time series: 62010306
h
—. Ending date of output time series: 62010706
~. Time-step of output time series: 6

324. At this point, all the required inputs have been specified and the
program begins to process the output time series. Note in line ~ that the
program requested the user to specify whether or not the output file should be
appended. This prompt was issued after a scan of the default directory
discovered that the specified output file alrezdy existed. Because the user
response was positive (yes, append the output file), the following sequence of
events occurred. First, the program read the station identification code
(STAID) and number of records (NEVENTS) from the existing output file header.

156
Then the program copied the existing time series to a scratch file. Next, the
program scanned the specified input time series for the beginning and ending
dates of the new time series and added the number of records from the input
time series to the number of records in the existing output time series.
Finally, a new header (the station identification code and updszed number of
records) was written to the output file, and the existing time series was
copied from the scratch file to the output file. Then, after rewinding the
input time series, the program copied every other wave event (a 6-hr time-step
was specified in line ~ above) between 62010306 and 62010706 (inclusive) from
the input file to the output file. The resulting output time series
(WTOUT3.OTS) is listed in Figure 76.
325. This example intentionally contains two fundamental errors that
were included in order to caution the user against making these types of
errors in an actual shoreline change study. First, the two Phase III input
time series were computed with differen~ sheltering constraints and, there-
fore, represent two different physical settings. Remember in WAVETRAN
Example 1 that no sheltering constraints were imposed in the Phase 111 trans-
formation, whereas in WAVETRAN Example 5 two-sided sheltering was specified
(between O and 30 deg, and between 150 and 180 deg); combining these two time
series is incorrect under any circumstances. Second, a new time series with a
6-hr time-step was appended to an existing time series with a 3-hr time-step,
again representing a fundamentally incorrect procedure; shoreline change
predictions resulting from using this time series as input to GENESIS would be
erroneous. In summary, when using the program WTWAVTS to append a time
series, one must ensure that the input time series are compatible and that the
time-step specified for the appended wave data is identical to the time-step
of the existing wave data.
326. Example 4. In this example, a standard CEDRS input time series is
used as input. The file name of this input time series is WVCEDRS.DAT and is
the same input file used in the RCRIT Example 2 (file listing provided in Fig-
ure 16) in Part 111. This example will also demonstrate the consequences of
various user responses to the program prompts issued when the specified output
file exists. Therefore, in order to cause the program to issue the “existing
output file prompts,” a file named WTOUT4.OTS was created by issuing the
command: COPY WTOUT3.OTS WTOUT4.OTS at the PC prompt while in the default

157
 31A28 34
62010100 105.1 3.0 157.7 110.0 3.0 162.6
62010103 136.0 3.0 152.2 142.1 3.0 156.4
62010106 166.6 3.0 145.7 171.7 3.0 148.6
62010109 195.7 3.0 138.0 198.8 3.0 139.6
62010112 248.0 3.0 129.3 249.3 3.0 129.9
62010115 299.0 3.0 119.8 299.4 3.0 120.0
62010118 349.3 3.0 110.0 349.3 3.0 110.0
62010121 399.2 3.0 100.0 399.3 3.0 100.0
62010200 424.2 3.0 90.0 424.2 3.0 90.0
62010203 399.2 3.0 80.0 399.3 3.0 80.0
62010206 349.3 3.0 70.0 349.3 3.0 70.0
62010209 299.0 3.0 60.2 299.4 3.0 60.0
62010212 248.0 3.0 50.7 249.3 3.0 50.1
62010215 195.7 3.0 42.0 198.8 3.0 40.4
62010218 166.6 3.0 34.3 171.7 3.0 31.4
62010221 136.0 3.0 27.8 142.1 3.0 23.6
62010300 105.1 3.0 22.3 110.0 3.0 17.4
62010306 59.1 10.0 118.7 55.6 10.0 122.3
62010312 105.7 10.0 113.2 108.8 10.0 116.7
62010318 185.5 10.0 105.5 191.3 10.0 107.9
62010400 263.5 10.0 95.5 268.1 10.0 96.2
62010406 263.5 10.0 84.5 268.1 10.0 83.8
62010412 185.5 10.0 74.5 191.3 10.0 72.1
62010418 105.7 10.0 66.8 108.8 10.0 63.3
62010500 59.1 10.0 61.3 55.6 10.0 57.7
62010506 39.8 25.0 101.8 33.2 25.0 102.9
62010512 83.0 25.0 99.9 81.9 25.0 101.4
62010518 150.1 25.0 97.4 154.7 25.0 98.7
62010600 236.8 25.0 94.0 243.1 25.0 94.7
62010606 297.9 25.0 90.0 304.4 25.0 90.0
62010612 236.8 25.0 86.0 243.1 25.0 85.3
62010618 150.1 25.0 82.6 154.7 25.0 81.3
62010700 83.0 25.0 80.1 81.9 25.0 78.6
62010706 39.8 25.0 78.2 33.2 25.0 77.1

Figure 76. WTWAVTS Example 3: Output file WTOUT3.OTS

directory. Execution of the program is initiated by issuing the command

WTWAVTS at the PC prompt. Responses to the program prompts are as follows:
a.
— Input file name: WVCEDRS.DAT

b
-, Input data format: 3 (CEDRS)
c.
— Time-step of input time series: 3
d.
— Output file name: WTOUT4
e.
— Append this file? : N
f.
- Overwrite this file? : N
~. Output file name: WTOUT4
h
-. Append this file? : N

158
 i.. Overwrite this file? : Y
i. Beginning date of output time series: 62010109
k.
— Ending date of output time series: 62010621
1.
— Time-step of output time series: 12

327. Note the responses shown above in lines a through ~. In line G

the user specified the output file name to be WTOVT4, and a scan of the
default directory determined that the file already existed. Consequently, the
program prompted for whether or not the output should be appended; the user
responded negatively (line E). Then the program prompted as to whether or not
the specified output file should be overwritten. This prompt represents the
user’s last chance to change his/her mind. The user responded negatively (do
not overwrite the output file, line i). At this point, the program prompts
for re-specificationof the output time series file name (line g). The user’s
responses in lines ~ and ~ command the program to overwrite the specified
output file (destroying the data contained within it). This procedure was
designed to allow the user to change his/her mind after entering an already
existing output file. A listing of the output time series (WTOUT4.OTS)
generated in this example is provided in Figure 77.
328. Note in Figure 77 that the output time series contains a CEDRS-
type file header that includes the station type (STATYP), station identifica-
tion code (STAID), the beginning date and hour (62010109 representing 1962,
January 1, 9:00 a.m.) and the ending date and hour, the number of records
(NEVENTS), latitude, longitude, and water depth, which in this case is 28 m.
Comparing Figure 77 with Figure 16 in Part III, it is seen that every fourth

WIS A2059 62010109 62010621 30.26 80.98

62010109 1.9 6.0 214.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62010121 1.9 6.0 297.0 0.5 7.0 144.0
62010209 3.8 7.0 164.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62010221 1.5 5.0 308.0 1.3 8.0 124.0
62010309 1.3 5.0 300.0 1.0 8.0 122.0
62010321 0.8 4.0 268.0 0.9 8.0 122.0
62010409 0.4 3.0 256.0 0.9 8.0 122.0
62010421 0.2 2.0 149.0 0.8 8.0 122.0
62010509 0.6 4.0 120.0 0.8 8.0 123.0
62010521 1.2 5.0 134.0 0.8 8.0 123.0
62010609 1.9 6.0 174.0 1.2 8.0 124.0
62010621 1.8 6.0 240,0 1.3 7.0 129.0

Figure 77. WTWAVTS Example 4: Output file WTOUT4.OTS

159
event (corresponding to a 12-hr time-step) beginning with the event occurring
on 62010109 and ending with the event occurring on 62010621 was copied from
the input time series to the output time series, as requested. The time
series generated in this example (WTOUT4.OTS) will be appended in the next
example, but to preserve this original time series, the file WTOUT4.OTS was
copied to the file WTOUT5.OTS by issuing the command: COPY WTOUT4.OTS
WTOUT5.OTS from the default directory.
329. Example 5. In this example, the output file (CEDRSOUT.CTS)
containing the time series generated from RCRIT Example 2 (shown in Figure 18)
will serve as the input time series. There is nothing wrong with combining a
time series already processed by RCRIT with a time series that has not been
processed by RCRIT provided the new time series is processed through RCRIT
prior to using it as input to the shoreline change model. Responses to the
program prompts for this example are as follows:
a.
— Input file name: CEDRSOUT.CTS

b Input data format: 4 (OUTPUT FROM ANOTHER WORKBOOK CODE;

–“ header and format similar to CEDRS)
c.
- Number of events per record: 2
d.
— Time-step of input time series: 3
e.
— Output file name: WTOUT5
f.
— Append this file? : Y
J3. Beginning date of output time series: 62010109
h
—. Ending date of output time series: 62010621
~. Time-step of output time series: 12

330. Note in line G that the user must specify the number of events per
record (as in Example 3) because the input file was generated by another
workbook program. A listing of the output time series (WTOUT5.OTS) is
provided in Figure 78. The time series generated in this example contains
different records for the same dates. This is not necessarily a problem
because the shoreline change model GENESIS does not read dates from the input
wave data file, but the example does emphasize that the program WTWAVTS
ignores dates in the output time series and will allow the creation of a time
series with repetitive dates znd/or chronologically incorrect sequencing of a
time series.
331. Example 6. In this example, a time series from a wave gage is
input to the program WTWAVTS. The purpose of this example is to demonstrate

160
 WIS A2059 1 62 1 62 24
62010109 1.9 6.0 214.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62010121 1.9 6.0 297.0 0.5 7.0 144.0
62010209 3.8 7.0 164.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62010221 1.5 5.0 308.0 1.3 8.0 124.0
62010309 1.3 5.0 300.0 1.0 8.0 122.0
62010321 0.8 4.0 268.0 0.9 8.0 122.0
62010409 0.4 3.0 256.0 0.9 8.0 122.0
62010421 0.2 2.0 149.0 0.8 8.0 122.0
62010509 0.6 4.0 120.0 0.8 8.0 123.0
62010521 1.2 5.0 134.0 0.8 8.0 123.0
62010609 1.9 6.0 174.0 1.2 8.0 124.0
62010621 1.8 6.0 240.0 1.3 7.0 129.0
62010109 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62010121 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.5 7.0 144.0
62010209 3.8 7.0 164.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62010221 0.0 -99.9 0.0 1.3 8.0 124.0
62010309 0.0 -99.9 0.0 1.0 8.0 122.0
62010321 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.9 8.0 122.0
62010409 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.9 8.0 122.0
62010421 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.8 8.0 122.0
62010509 0.6 4.0 120.0 0.8 8.0 123.0
62010521 1.2 5.0 134.0 0.8 8.0 123.0
62010609 0.0 -99.9 0.0 1.2 8.0 124.0
62010621 0.0 -99.9 0.0 1.3 7.0 129.0

Figure 78. WTWAVTS Example 5: Output file WTOUT5.OTS

how to modify the source code for WTWAVTS (WTWAVTS.FOR) in order to use
WTWAVTS with wave gage data. The input wave gage time series in the present
example is the same as the one used in RCRIT Example 3 and listed in Fig-
ure 19, in Part III. Each record in the wave gage time series has seven
fields of data: the first field is the year, the second is the month, the
third is the day, the fourth is the hour, the fifth is the wave height in
centimeters, the sixth is the wave period in seconds, and the seventh is the
wave angle representing the direction of wave propagation measured clockwise
from north.
332. At this point, the user may take one of two paths, both of which
will (or should) lead to the same end. One alternative would be to write a
program that converts the wave gage time series to either the SEAS or the
CEDRS format. The other alternative is to modify the program WTWAVTS to read
the wave gage time series. The second alternative will be demonstrated here.
333. Before changes are made to the file WTWAVTS.FOR, it is strongly
recommended that the user copy WTWAVTS.FOR to another file name such as
WTWAVTSG.FOR (where the letter G denotes that the program has been customized

161
 to read the user’s wave gage time series). In WTWAVTS.FOR, two comment blocks
denote areas where modifications must be made. These comment blocks and the
pertinent lines of FORTRAN code are listed in Figure 79.
334. The header information for the wave gage time series shown in
Figure 19 contains a station identification number, t~l~ number of records in
the file, and the water depth of the gage in meters. Of this information,
only the station identification number is required by the program, and this is
the only information in the header that will be transferred from the original
input time series to the new output time series. However, the program also
requires additional information, as shown in Figure 79. These additional data
needs include the time-step (ITS) and the required format of the output time
series (NFOR). The value assigned to the variable NFOR will determine the
output file format. Legal values of NFOR are: 1 indicating that the output
time series will be in the SEAS format, and 2 indicating that the output time
series will be in the CEDRS format. If NFOR is assigned the value 1, then the
station identification code should be loaded into the program variable STAID;
however, if NFOR is assigned the value 2, then the station identification code
should be loaded into the program variable CSTAID, and the station type should
be loaded into the program variable STATYP. Figure 80 provides one way of
i
satisfying the program requirements for Area 1.
335. Note in Figure 80 that the first new line of code assigns the
program variable NFOR the value of 1. This assignment means that the output
time series will be in the format of a SEAS data file, and, according to the
comment block, a station identification code should be assigned to the program
variable STAID. Consequently, because the gage time series contains a station
identification code, the next new line of code (shown in Figure 80) reads this
identification code into the variable STAID. Other program variables that
need to be assigned values are NEPR (number of events per record) and FTS
(input file time-step). The variable NEPR is assigned the value 1 since the
gage time series contains only one event per record. The other program
variable, FTS, is obtained by issuing a user prompt and reading the response
into the variable FTS, as shown in Figure 80.
336. The next section of code (Area 2 in Figure 79) that must be
modified performs the operation of reading each record of data in the input
time series. The program requires that each event be associated with a date,
including the hour (loaded into the program variable DATE), the wave height

162
Area ~
ELSEIF(INFOR.EQ.5)THEN
WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to read past your specif
&ic input file header !’
GOTO 150
c???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section read (or prompt for) the input file header information. ?
C Load the number of events per record into NEPR, and the time step into ?
C FTS. Also specify the output format, and load it into NFOR. ?
C DEFINITION OF NFOR: ?
c NFOR= 1 => SEAS, requires station identification (STAID) ?
C NFOR= 2 => CEDRS, requires station type (STATYP) and station ID (CSTAID)?
c???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Area 2
ELSE
WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to read your specific in
&put time series !’
GOTO 99
c????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section read the wave event(s) from the input file. ?
C Read the date into DATE (YYMMDDHH). Read the wave height, period, ?
C and angle of the first wave event into HGT, PER, and ANG. ?
C If there are two events per record, read second wave event height, ?
C period, and angle into HGTS, PERS, ANGS. ?
c????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF

Figure 79. Lines where WTWAVTS.FOR must be modified to read

wave gage time series

(HGT), wave period (PER), and wave angle (ANG); if there are two wave events
per record, the second wave height, period, and angle event should be loaded
into the program variables HGTS, PERS, and ANGS, respectively. Figure 81
shows one way of accomplishing this task.
337. Note in Figure 19 that the date in the wave gage time series is
provided as four numbers separated by spaces; the program WTWAVTS, however,
requires the data as an eight-character integer. To read the date information
from the wave gage time series and translate it into the eight-character
integer program variable, DATE, required by the program, the following
procedure was used. First the date information was read from the wave gage
time series file into four new program variables called IGY (year), IGM
(month), IGD (day), and IGH (hour, 24-hr clock). This step was accomplished
by the first new line of code shown in Figure 81. Then the program variable
DATE was constructed from the four temporary variables as shown in the second
new line of code listed in Figure 81. The next two lines of code convert the

163
 ELSEIF(INFOR.EQ.5)THEN
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to read past your specif
c &ic input file header !’
c GOTO 150
c???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section read (or prompt for) the input file header information. ?
C Load the number of events per record into NEPR, and the time step into ?
C FTS. Also specify the output format, and load it into NFOR. ?
C DEFINITION OF NFOR: ?
C NFOR==1 => SEAS, requires station identification (STAID) ?
C NFOR= 2 => CEDRS, requires station type (STATYP) and station id (CSTAID)?
c???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
c---
c new section for reading past the wave gage time series header
c---
NFOR-1
READ(99,*) STAID
NEPR=l
WRITE(*,*) ‘ ‘
WRITE(*)*) ‘ Enter the time step of your input time series: ‘
READ(*,*) FTS
c ---
c end of new section for reading past the wave gage time series header
c---

Figure 80. New lines of code for Area 1, WTWAVTS.FOR

wave angle from an angle that defines the direction in which the wave is
traveling with respect to north to the direction from which the wave came with
respect to north. This conversion is necessary for compatibility with the
SEAS (WIS Phases I and II) data format and coordinate system.
338. The program WTWAVTSG is now capable of reading the input wave gage
time series and writing the user-specified output time series. This program
also converts the wave angle coordinate system from one defining the direction
in which the wave is traveling to one defining the direction from which the
wave came. This coordinate system conversion is necessary so that output
files created by WTWAVTS can be used as input to other workbook programs,
because the input format will be defined as SEAS-type. The file WTWAVTSG.FOR
must now be compiled and linked to obtain an executable program. Users must
perform these functions with their own software and equipment.
339. In the execution of the program WTWAVTSG, the file name VVGAGE.DAT
is entered at the prompt for the input time series file name. The file is
assumed to exist in the default directory; otherwise, the appropriate path
together with the file name must be specified. The input data format is

164
 ELSE
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to read your specific in
c &put time series !’
c GOTO 99
c????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section read the wave event(s) from the input file. ?
C Read the date into DATE (YYMMDDHH). Read the wave height, period, ?
C and angle of the first wave event into HGT, PER, and ANG. ?
C If there are two events per record, read second wave event height, ?
C period, and angle into HGTS, PERS, ANGS. ?
c????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
c---
c new section for reading the input time series
c---
READ(99,*) IGY,IGM,IGD,IGH,HGT,PER,ANG
DATE=IGY*10000OO+IGM*lOOOO+IGD*lOO+IGH/100
ANG=ANG+180.
IF(ANG.GT.360.)ANG=ANG-360.
c---
c end of new section for reading the input time series
c ---
ENDIF

Figure 81, New lines of code for Area 2, WTWAVTS.FOR

specified as “other” by entering the value 5 at the input format prompt. At

the prompt for the input time series time-step, the value 6 is entered,
indicating a 6-hr time-step. At the prompt for the output file name, the name
WTOUT6 is entered. The starting date of the output time series is specified
as 86013108, and the ending date output time series is specified as 86021120.
At the prompt for the output time series time-step, the value 12 is entered
indicating a 12-hr time-step.
340. At this point, all the required program inputs have been speci-
fied, and the requested output time series is written to the output file
WTOUT6.OTS. A listing of the output time series is provided in Figure 82.
From Figure 82, it is seen that the selected time series begins and ends on
the dates specified above and that the time interval between events is 12 hr.
Comparing this new time series with the input time series, it is noted that
only the wave angles are different, and this difference is exactly 180 deg,
representing a conversion of coordinates from one that defines the direction
in which the wave is traveling to one that defines the direction from which
the wave came. This concludes the example applications of the utility program
WTWAVTS .

165
~ummarv

341. The program WTWAVTS was designed specifically to enable users of

the WIS data base accessed through either the SEAS or CEDRS data retrieval
systems to create wave data time series from portions of larger time series or
to combine several individual time series into a single series. With modifi-
cation of the program source code (listed in Appendix G) as demonstrated in
Example 6 above, WTWAVTS can perform these functions using wave data time
series obtained from other sources. Users are, however, cautioned to avoid
the types of errors discussed in Examples 3 and 5 when combining several
individual time series (appending an existing output time series).

WTWAVES

342. The program WTWAVES reads a wave time series data file that was
either retrieved from the SEAS or CEDRS data retrieval systems or created
(output) by one of the wave time series processing programs presented previ-
ously and then writes a wave data time series file suitable for input to
GENESIS. The specific workbook programs which create wave data time series
that can be read by the program WTWAVES include RCRIT, WAVETRAN, and WTWAVTS.
The program WTWAVES writes files that may be renamed to WAVES.ext and input to
GENESIS.
343. The computational flow of the program WTWAVES is as follows:
a.
— Open input and output data files.
b
—. Prompt for the time-step associated with the input and output
time series.

Stool 24
86013108 70.0 5.0 233.0 86020608 99.0 9.0 229.0
86013120 79.0 9.0 233.0 86020620 105.0 7.0 223.0
86020108 152.0 20.0 233.0 86020708 71.0 20.0 232.0
86020120 167.0 15.0 230.0 86020720 100.0 20.0 220.0
86020208 130.0 13.0 232.0 86020808 104.0 17.0 226.0
86020220 105.0 13.0 234.0 86020820 95.0 15.0 219.0
86020308 113.0 15.0 233.0 86020908 78.0 15.0 214.0
86020320 188.0 9.0 231.0 86020920 90.0 13.0 219.0
866?9408 124,0 15.0 233.0 86021008 66.0 13.0 216.0
86020420 105.0 15.0 230.0 86021020 64.0 13.0 221.0
86020508 80.0 13.0 230.0 86021108 57.0 13.0 223.0
86020520 78.0 7.0 229.0 86021120 44.0 13.0 226.0

Figure 82 WTWAVTS Example 6: Output file WTOUT6,0TS

166
 c.
— Prompt for the wave angle coordinate system (with respect to
north (WIS Phases I or II) or with respect to the shoreline
orientation (WIS Phase III)).
~. Prompt for number of events per record (NEPR).
g, Prompt for input file format type (SEAS or CEDRS).
~. Write output file header.
~ Read wave event(s) from input time series.
h.
— If wave event(s) is calm or propagating offshore, write
flagged wave event, in GENESIS format, to output time series,
Go to step g.
~. Convert wave angle to GENESIS coordinate system. Write wave
event(s), in GENESIS format, to output time series.
i Repeat steps g through ~ until end of input file is reached.

Example applications

344. Operation of the program WTWAVES will now be demonstrated through

five example applications. Each of the five legal input time series data
types will be used, and the program options of append, overwrite, and
re-specify (associatedwith the output time series) will also be covered.
345. Example 1. In this example, a standard SEAS input time series is
the input. The file name of this input time series is WVSEAS.DAT, the same
input file used in the RCRIT Example 1 (file listing provided in Figure 12) in
Part III and in the WTWAVTS Example 1 given previously in this chapter.
Execution of the program is initiated by issuing the comand WTWAVES at the PC
prompt.
346. The program responds by prompting for entry of the input file name
and extension, If the input file is not located in the default directory, the
appropriate path should also be entered. For this example, the name
WVSEAS.DAT is entered. This file must exist (it represents the input) or the
program will terminate.
347. The next prompt issued requests entry of the file name of the
output time series; in this example, the file name SEASOUT is entered. Note
that the output file name extension is ~ requested and should not be
entered. The program will automatically assign the extension .WAV (represent-
ing offshore time series) to all output time series. This file may or may not
exist, and the program scans the default directory (or the specific directory
entered together with the output file name) to determine the existence of the
file. If the file is found, then the program will ask if the file should be

167
appended, overwritten (deleted), or re-specified (enter a new output file
name). In this example, the directory scan determines that the file does not
exist, so the program creates the file SEASOUT.WAV. The program options of
append, overwrite, and re-specify are discussed in Examples 3, 5, and 4,
respectively.
348. Next, the program prompts for entry of the time-step of the input
time series. In this example the value 3 is entered, which corresponds to the
3-hr time-step of the input time series.
349. The program then prompts for the shoreline orientation. If the

coordinate system associated with the input wave angles is with respect to
north (as in WIS Phase I or Phase II data files), then the shoreline orienta-
tion with respect to north should be entered. Otherwise, if the coordinate
system associated with the input time series wave angles is with respect to
the shoreline orientation (as in WIS Phase III data files), then the value
-999 should be entered. This information is required in order for the program
to correctly convert the wave angles to the coordinate system used in GENESIS.
In GENESIS wave angles can vary between -90 and 90 deg, where O deg represents
a wave propagating normal to the GENESIS baseline and waves propagating from
the right of O deg are defined as negative, whereas waves propagating from the
left of O deg are defined as positive. Figure 83 provides a schematic
illustration of the wave angle coordinate system convention used in GENESIS.
In the present example, the wave angles of input time series are defined with
respect to north, so the value 54 is entered to indicate a shoreline orienta-
tion of 54 deg.
350. Next, the program prompts for the time-step of the output time
series. The value 6 is entered indicating a time-step of 6 hr. The program
then prompts for the number of events per record contained in the input time
series and the value 2 is entered.
351. The next prompt issued by the program requests specification of
the input time series format type; the options are CEDRS or SEAS. In this
example, the input time series was retrieved from the SEAS system so the value
2 is entered. Then the program requests whether or not the input time series
was generated by another workbook program. Again, because the input time
series was retrieved directly from the SEAS system, the response to this
prompt is N indicating that the input file was not generated by another
workbook program.

168
 352. The last prompt issued by the program requests specification of
the required output system of units; the options are meters or feet. In the I

present example, the response to this prompt is 1 indicating that the wave
heights should be output in meters.
353. At this point, the required inputs have been specified, and the
program proceeds to copy wave events from the input time series at the
specified time-step to the output file SEASOUT.WAV. First, the wave angle of
each event is converted to the GENESIS coordinate system convention. Then a
check is made to ensure that the converted wave angle’is valid (betweenA90
deg), and, if so, the wave height is converted to the specified system of
units , and the event is written to the output file. If the converted wave
angle is not valid (for example, the wave is propagating offshore or a calm
event is encountered), a flagged wave event (an event denoted with a negative
wave period) is written to the output file. A listing of the output file
generated from this example is provided in Figure 84.
354. The file SEASOUT.WAV was written in the format of a GENESIS
WAVES.ext input file that contains a four-line header followed by wave events

GENESIS BASELINE
x /

SHORELINE
/
----

-60°
/
/ \ /’ \ \

-30°
0°
\
/
I
‘Y
Figure 83. GENESIS wave angle coordinate system cormrsntion

169
FILE: SEASOUT.WAV
NUMBER OF EVENTS PER TIME STEP: 2 TIME STEP: 6 HR
SYSTEM OF UNITS: METERS
********************************************************************************
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030500
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030500 EVENT 2
3.000 0.480 76.000 62030506
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030506 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030512
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030512 EVENT 2
4.000 0.890 79.000 62030518
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030518 EVENT 2
6.000 2.010 68.000 62030600
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030600 EVENT 2
8.000 4.240 75.000 62030606
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030606 EVENT 2
8.000 3.980 73.000 62030612
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030612 EVENT 2
9.000 4.470 71.000 62030618
10.000 2.620 76.000 62030618 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030700
12.000 6.520 73.000 62030700 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030706
13.000 6.240 67.000 62030706 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030712
13.000 6.190 67.000 62030712 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030718
13.000 5.840 68.000 62030718 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030800
13.000 5.350 70.000 62030800 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030806
13.000 5.320 71.000 62030806 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030812
13.000 4.430 73.000 62030812 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030818
13.000 3.850 77.000 62030818 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030900
12.000 3.260 77.000 62030900 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030906
11.000 2.530 76.000 62030906 EVENT 2
4.000 1.010 54.000 62030912
10.000 1.890 72.000 62030912 EVENT 2
5.000 1.310 67.000 62030918
10.000 1.460 68.000 62030918 EVENT 2
4.000 0.760 88.000 62031000
8.000 1.250 66.000 62031000 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62031006
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62031006 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62031012
-99,900 0.000 0.000 62031012 EVENT 2
-’39.900 0.000 0.000 62031018
-99,900 0.000 0.000 62031018 EVENT 2

Figure 84 WTWAVES Example 1: Output file SEASOUT.WAV

170
defined by the wave period, wave height, and wave angle. Each line contains
only one wave event. Note in Figure 84, however, that in addition to the wave
characteristics, the date of the event is also listed, and, if the time series
contains two events per time-step, the phrase “EVENT 2“ is listed adjacent to
the date. This information is not required by GENESIS, but is included in the
file to enable the user to quickly locate particular wave events of interest.
Comparing the time series in Figure 84 with the REPORT.RC file generated in
RCRIT Example 1 and listed in Figure 14, it is seen that the offshore travel-
ing and calm wave events flagged by RCRIT were also detected and flagged by
the program WTWAVES. However, the sea event occurring on 62031000 flagged by
RCRIT because it fell below the threshold for significant longshore sand
transport was not flagged by the program WTWAVES.
355. Example 2. In this example, a standard CEDRS input time series is
the input. The file name of this input time series is WVCEDRS.DAT, the same
input file used in the RCRIT Example 2 (file listing provided in Figure 16) in
Part III and in the WTWAVTS Example 4 given previously in this chapter.
Execution of the program is initiated by issuing the command WT?JAVES at the PC
prompt.
356. This example will demonstrate how to correct an error in the
specification of the output file name. Responses to the program prompts are
as follows:

a.
— Input file name: WVCEDRS.DAT
b
—. Ooutput file name: SEASOUT (output file specified in error)
c.
— Disposition of existing output file: 3 (re-specificationof
output file name)
d.
— Output file name: CEDRSOUT

e.
— Time-step of input time series: 3
f.
— Shoreline orientation: 348
g. Time-step of output time series: 12
h
—. Number of events per record: 2
~. Input file type: 1 (CEDRS)
i. Output from another workbook program: N
k .
— Output units: 1 (meters)

357. Note the response in lines ~, G, and fl. In line ~, the user
incorrectly entered the output file name SEASOUT, and the program scan of the
default directory discovered that the file SEASOUT.WAV existed and

171
 consequently prompted for specification of its disposition. The choices given
are: (1) Append the file, (2) Overwrite (delete) the file, and (3) Enter a
new output file name. In line S, the response to this prompt was 3, indicat-
ing re-specification of the output file name. In line ~, the new file name
CEDRSOUT was entered.
358. A listing of the output file CEDRSOUT.WAV is provided ~.nFig-
ure 85. Again, if the file CEDRSOUT.WAV shown in Figure 85 is compared with
the file REPORT.RC generated in RCRIT Example 2 and listed in Figure 17, it is
seen that the offshore traveling and calm wave events flagged by RCRIT were
also detected and flagged by the program WTWAVES, but the below threshold sea
event occurring on 62010100 was not flagged by the program WTWAVES.
359. Example 3. In this example, the output file generated in RCRIT
Example 2 will be used as input to the program WTWAVES. This input time
series shown in Figure 18 in Part III is identical to the input time series
used in the previous example except that it has been processed through RCRIT.
This example will demonstrate the overwrite option to the program prompt for
disposition of an existing output file. Therefore, in order to cause the
program to issue the “existing output file prompts,” a file named CEDRSCTS.WAV
was created by issuing the command: COPY CEDRSOUT.WAV CEDRSCTS.WAV at the PC
prompt while in the default directory. Responses to the program prompts are
as follows:
a.
— Input file name: CEDRSOUT.CTS

b
—. Output file name: CEDRSCTS

c.
— Disposition of existing output file: 2 (overwrite the file)
t d.
— Time-step of input time series: 3
i
i
e.
— Shoreline orientation: 348
f
—, Time-step of output time series: 1.2
~. Number of events per record: 2
h.
— Input file type: I (CEDRS)
~. Output from another workbook program: Y
i. Output units: 1 (meters)

360. The result of specifying that the output file should be overwrit-
ten in line ~ is loss of the data that originally existed in the file.
Because the input time series was generated by the program RCRIT, the appro-
priate response in line ~ above is Y. A listing of the output file
CEDRSCTS,WAV is provided in Figure 86. Comparing Figures 86 and 85 indicates

172
FILE: CEDRSOUT.WAV
NUMBER OF EVENTS PER TIME STEP: 2 TIME STEP: 12
SYSTEM OF UNITS: METERS
********************************************************************************
3,000 0.400 -64.000 62010100
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010100 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010112
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010112 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010200
7.000 0.500 -67.000 62010200 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010212
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010212 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010300
8.000 1.200 -45.000 62010300 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010312
8.000 1.000 -44.000 62010312 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010400
8.000 0.900 -44.000 62010400 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010412
8.000 0.900 -44.000 62010412 EVENT 2
3.000 0.400 -53.000 62010500
8.000 0.800 -44.000 62010500 EVENT 2
3.000 0.400 -42.000 62010512
8.000 0.800 -45.000 62010512 EVENT 2
5.000 1.600 -64.000 62010600
8.000 0.800 -45.000 62010600 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010612
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010612 EVENT 2

Figure 85. WTWAVES Example 2: Output file CEDRSOUT.WAV

that the only difference is the sea event occurring on 62010100. In Fig-
ure 86, this event is flagged because the input time series for this example
was preprocessed through RCRIT (and the event fell below the criterion for
significant longshore sand transport). However, the input time series used in
WTWAVES Example 2 was not preprocessed using RCRIT, so the event was not
flagged.
361. Example 4. In this example, the output file generated in WAVETRAN
Example 1 and listed in Figure 64 will be used as input to the program
WTWAVES. Responses to the program prompts are as follows:
a.
— Input file name: OUTITST.PH3
b.
— Output file name: PHASE3—A
-c. Time-step of input time series: 3
d.
— Shoreline orientation: -999
e.
— Time-step of output time series: 9
f.
- Number of events per record: 2

173
$-
1/
,,,
I

FILE: CEDRSCTS.WAV
NUMBER OF EVENTS PER TIME STEP: 2 TIME STEP: 12
SYSTEM OF UNITS: METERS
*******************************************************************************->
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010100
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010100 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010112
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010112 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010200
7.000 0.500 -67.000 62010200 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010212
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010212 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010300
8.000 1.200 -45.000 62010300 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010312
8.000 1.000 -44.000 62010312 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010400
8.000 0.900 -44.000 62010400 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010412
8.000 0.900 -44.000 62010412 EVENT 2
3.000 0.400 -53.000 62010500
8.000 0.800 -44.000 62010500 EVENT 2
3.000 0.400 -42.000 62010512
8.000 0.800 -45.000 62010512 EVENT 2
5.000 1.600 -64.000 62010600
8.000 0.800 -45.000 62010600 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010612
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62010612 EVENT 2

Figure 86. WTWAVES Example 3: Output file CEDRSCTS.WAV

g. Input Eile type: 2 (SEAS)

h
—. Output from another workbook program: Y
~. Output units: 1 (meters)

362. Note in line ~ that the value -999 was entered at the prompt for
the shoreline orientation. This response indicates to the model that the wave
angles are defined with respect to the shoreline orientation (as in WIS
Phase III) as defined in Figure 65. A listing of the output file PHASE3_A.WAV
is provided in Figure 87. The time series generated in this example will be
appended in the next example, but to also preserve this original time series,
the file PHASE3_A.WAV was copied to the file PHASE3— B,WAV by issuing the
command: COPY PHASE3_A.VAV PHASE3_B.WAV from the default directory.
363. Example 5. In this example, the output file generated in WTWAVTS
Example 2 and listed in Figure 75 will be used as input to the program
WTWAVES. Responses to the program prompts are as follows:

174
FILE: PHASE3 A.WAV
NUMBER OF EVEfiTSPER TIME STEP: 2 TIME STEP: 9
SYSTEM OF UNITS: METERS
*******************************************************************************,y
3.000 1.051 67.700 62010100
3.000 1.100 72.600 62010100 EVENT 2
3.000 1.957 48.000 62010109
3.000 1.988 49.600 62010109 EVENT 2
3.000 3.493 20.000 62010118
3.000 3.493 20.000 62010118 EVENT 2
3.000 3.992 -10.000 62010203
3.000 3.993 -10.000 62010203 EVENT 2
3.000 2.480 -39.300 62010212
3.000 2.493 -39.900 62010212 EVENT 2
3.000 1.360 -62.200 62010221
3.000 1.421 -66.400 62010221 EVENT 2
10.000 0.703 33.700 62010306
10.000 0.703 37.200 62010306 EVENT 2
10.000 1.508 21.500 62010315
10.000 1.539 23.700 62010315 EVENT 2
10.000 2.642 5.700 62010400
10.000 2.681 6.300 62010400 EVENT 2
10.000 2.273 -11.300 62010409
10.000 2.311 -12.400 62010409 EVENT 2
10.000 1.134 -26.000 62010418
10.000 1.156 -28.700 62010418 EVENT 2
10.000 0.511 -36.800 62010503
10.000 0.499 -40.600 62010503 EVENT 2
25.000 0.911 11.000 62010512
25.000 0.913 12.300 62010512 EVENT 2
25.000 1.966 6.100 62010521
25.000 2.007 7.000 62010521 EVENT 2
25.000 2.982 0.000 62010606
25.000 3.044 0.000 62010606 EVENT 2
25.000 1.966 -6.100 62010615
25.000 2.007 -7.000 62010615 EVENT 2
25.000 0.911 -11.000 62010700
25.000 0.913 -12.300 62010700 EVENT 2

Figure 87. WTWAVES Example 4: Output file PHASE3_A,WAV

a.
- Input file name: WTOUT2.OTS
b.
— Output file name: PHAsE3_B
c.
— Disposition of existing output file: 1 (append the file)
d.
— Time-step of input time series: 3
e.
— Shoreline orientation: -999
f
—. Time-step of output time series: 9
~. Number of events per record: 2
h.
— Input file type: 2 (SEAS)

175
 j-. Output from another workbook program: Y
i. Output units: 1 (meters)

364. A listing of the output file PHASE3_B.WAV is provided in Fig-

ure 88. Note that the contents of the file PHASE3_B.WAV (Figure 88) are
identical to the contents of the file PHASE3_A.WAV (Figure 87) except for the
last 12 wave events, which represent the data copied from the input file
WTOUT2.OTS and appended to the output file PHASE3_B.WAV.
Summary
365. The program WTWAVES (source code listing provided in Appendix H)
will reformat (into the GENESIS format of a WAVES.ext file) and change the
time-step of an input time series retrieved from either the SEAS or CEDRS data
retrieval systems, or, processed and output by the workbook programs RCRIT,
WAVETMN, or WTWAVTS. The entire input time series is processed. Therefore,
if only a portion of a specific time series is wanted, it should be processed
through the program WTWAVTS first.

Analysis of Offshore Wave Data

366. In this section, the programs RCRIT, SEDTRAN, WAVETRAN, WTWAVTS,

and WTWAVES are combined into a recommended offshore wave data analysis
procedure. This proposed analysis procedure is referred to as “Wave Data
Analysis Stage 1“ and may be thought of as a regional analysis. Figure 89
provides a general outline of the analysis. Consequently, this analysis
procedure assumes access to the WIS data base.
367. The primary source for long-term wave data within the Corps is the
WIS. Consequently, the first task in the analysis procedure is to obtain a
WIS Phase II time series, If using the CEDRS data retrieval system, the
maximum duration of the extracted time series is 1 year. The SEAS data
retrieval system allows for the extraction of time series of any length, and
of course the WIS staff at CERC can provide time series of any length as well.
The starting point of this analysis procedure is prescribed as WIS Phase 11
because these data are typically referenced to north (wave angle coordinate
system convention) and were developed using deepwater assumptions (at least
for the Atlantic and Pacific WIS hindcasts). These conditions enable use of
the program WAVETRAN (the second task of the analysis), which allows for a
preliminary transformation of the wave data to satisfy site-specific

176
FILE: PHASE3 B.WAV
NUMBER OF EVE~TS PER TIME STEP: 2 TIME STEP: 9
SYSTEM OF UNITS: METERS
******************************************************************************i-*
3.000 1.051 67.700 62010100
3.000 1.100 72.600 62010100 EVENT 2
3.000 1.957 48.000 62010109
3.000 1.988 49.600 62010109 EVENT 2
3.000 3.493 20.000 62010118
3.000 3.493 20.000 62010118 EVENT 2
3.000 3.992 -10.000 62010203
3.000 3.993 -10.000 62010203 EVENT 2
3.000 2.480 -39.300 62010212
3.000 2.493 -39.900 62010212 EVENT 2
3.000 1.360 -62.200 62010221
3.000 1.421 -66.400 62010221 EVENT 2
10.000 0.703 33.700 62010306
10.000 0.703 37.200 62010306 EVENT 2
10.000 1.508 21.500 62010315
10.000 1.539 23.700 62010315 EVENT 2
10.000 2.642 5.700 62010400
10.000 2.681 6.300 62010400 EVENT 2
10.000 2.273 -11.300 62010409
10.000 2.311 -12.400 62010409 EVENT 2
10.000 1.134 -26.000 62010418
10.000 1.156 -28.700 62010418 EVENT 2
10.000 0.511 -36.800 62010503
10.000 0.499 -40.600 62010503 EVENT 2
25.000 0.911 11.000 62010512
25.000 0.913 12.300 62010512 EVENT 2
25.000 1.966 6.100 62010521
25.000 2.007 7.000 62010521 EVENT 2
25.000 2.982 0.000 62010606
25.000 3.044 0.000 62010606 EVENT 2
25.000 1.966 -6.100 62010615
25.000 2.007 -7.000 62010615 EVENT 2
25.000 0.911 -11.000 62010700
25.000 0.913 -12.300 62010700 EVENT 2
3.000 1.051 67.700 62010100
3.000 1.100 72.600 62010100 EVENT 2
3.000 1.957 48.000 62010109
3.000 1.988 49.600 62010109 EVENT 2
3.000 3.493 20.000 62010118
3.000 3.493 20.000 62010118 EVENT 2
3.000 3.992 -10.000 62010203
3.000 3.993 -10.000 62010203 EVENT 2
3.000 2.480 -39.300 62010212
3.000 2.493 -39.900 62010212 EVENT 2
3.000 1.360 -62.200 62010221
3.000 1.421 -66.400 62010221 EVENT 2

Figure 88. WTWAVES Example 5: Output file PHASE3_B.WAV

177
 WAVE DATA ANALYSIS STAGE 1
(REGIONAL ANALYSIS)

-“l:k:::::x::e:i
of interest.

q3-fatiOn’- Per fc”’n

for
shor:
and
2
sub-procedure
appropriate
ne orientations
s ‘adowing angles

\ Investigate

1 ‘ffect
-@D
I

-9 WTWAVTS

WTWAVES

91
Figure 89. Wave data analysis Stage 1 (regional analysis)

178
conditions (specific nearshore water depth and wave energy sheltering).
Depending on the alongshore extent and geological setting of the area of
interest, wave data from more than one WIS Phase II Station may be required.
368. The second task in the analysis is to perform a WIS Phase III-type
transformation (using the program WAVETRAN) from the Phase 11 Station to a
Phase III-type station with a specific shoreline orientation and a specified
water depth. This transformation may also include sheltering of wave energy
approaching the shore from specific angles if required. WAVETRAN runs should
be performed for shoreline orientations encountered along the region of
interest. If a nearshore wave transformation model such as RCPWAVE will be
used in the project study, the water depth specified in one of the WAVETRAN
runs should correspond to the average water depth along the offshore boundary
of the RCPWAVE grid, and the specified shoreline orientation should correspond
to the alongshore axis of the bathymetry grid.
369. The third task of the analysis involves use of the program
SEDTRAN. A SEDTRAN run should be performed for each of the unique Phase III-
type stations created in the second task. This run will enable the develop-
ment of a regional potential longshore sand transport sediment budget that
will provide significant insight to the regional processes (magnitude and
direction of sand transport rates for various shoreline orientations) at work
along the project reach.
370. The analysis up to this point is general and is a good procedure
for evaluating regional potential longshore sand transport processes regard-
less of whether or not numerical shoreline change modeling using GENESIS will
be applied. If, however, the intention is to apply GENESIS, the next task
involves using the program RCRIT to eliminate offshore traveling and insignif-
icant (in terms of producing longshore sand transport) waves from the offshore
time series. A good idea at this point is to calculate potential longshore
transport rates using the program SEDTRAN, and inputing the time series
processed through the program RCRIT to investigate the effect of RCRIT
(particularly in low wave energy environments).
371. The next task is to compile a time series for the specific
simulation time interval that shoreline change will be modeled. The program
WTWAVTS is used to perform this task. After generating the required time
series of wave conditions, the program WTWAVES is used to convert the time
series to the GENESIS format and coordinate system required in the WAVES.ext

179
input file. This concludes preparation of wave data for a scoping application
of GENESIS.
372. This analysis combined with the shoreline position analysis de-
scribed in Part IV and outlined in Figure 43 will result in the preparation of
three (SHORL.ext, SHORM.ext, and WAVES.ext) or four (SEAWL.ext is required if
a seawall will be simulated) of the four or five input files required to run
GENESIS in a scoping mode application. A line-by-line description and step-
by-step procedure for preparing the remaining input file (START.ext) are
provided in Part VII.

180
 PART VI : NEARSHORE WAVE ANALYSIS

373. This chapter presen~s procedures for refining and expanding the
wave analysis initiated in the previous chapter. The phrase “r.earshorewave
data” refers to wave information along a nearshore reference line that
corresponds to a prebreaking condition for most of the wave events in the
offshore time series. These procedures pertain specifically to use of an
external - transformation model, as opposed to the GENESIS internal wave
transformation model. The GENESIS internal wave transformation model is
described in Part II. Use of an external wave transformation model such as
the Regional ~oastal ~rocesses Nave (RCPWAVE) propagation model developed by
Ebersole (1985) and documented by Ebersole, Cialone, and Prater (1986) is
recommended for design mode application of GENESIS, whereas for scoping mode
applications , the simpler internal wave transformation is usually sufficient.
374. Four computer programs are introduced in this chapter. The first
program, WHEREWAV, categorizes wave events in the offshore time series by wave
period (referred to as “period bands”) and direction of wave propagation
(referred to as “angle bands”), and reports the number of wave events occur-
ring within each of the period and angle band categories. This information is
then used to define the number of nearshore wave transformation simulations
required to describe the offshore time series. The second program, WTNSWAV,
reads wave parameters (wave height transformation parameter and direction of
propagation) along the nearshore reference line from an RCPWAVE output file,
computes an offshore wave identification code, and writes the wave parameters
and identification code to the nearshore wave data file (NSWAV.ext) for input
to GENESIS. The third program, WTDEPTH, reads the RCPWAVE bathymetry data and
writes the water depths along the nearshore reference line to a DEPTH.ext file
for input to GENESIS. The fourth program, NSTRAN, calculates potential
longshore sand transport rates from an input offshore time series, a data base
of nearshore wave conditions, and reference nearshore water depths. This
program enables refinement of the regional sand transport budget developed in
the offshore wave analysis procedures to a more local (project level) poten-
tial longshore sand transport budget.
375. The programs presented in this chapter were designed to translate
output from a modified version of RCPWAVE that was revised for use in concert
with GENESIS. It is anticipated that the RCPWAVE modifications as discussed

181
herein will be incorporated into the CERC Coastal Modeling System (CMS)
version of RCPWAVE. Regardless, an RCPWAVE input data set that is operational
on the CMS system can be used as input to the modified version of RCPWAVE but
will require editing (the addition of optional input data) to activate the new
RCPWAVE features that enable the workbook program WTNSWAV to operate on the
output data sets. Likewise, an RCPWAVE input data set that is operational
with the modified version of RCPWAVE can be used with the CMS version.

External Wave Transformation Model (RCPWAVE)

Introduction
376. The RCPWAVE model is a major component of the CMS suite of numeri-
cal models. With slight revisions, it has become the standard monochromatic
wave transformation model used for estimating open-coast nearshore wave condi-
tions for input to GENESIS in shoreline change studies conducted at CERC.
RCPWAVE calculates wave propagation over an arbitrary bathymetry. The
governing equations solved in the model are a modified form of the “mild
slope” equation for linear, monochromatic waves, and the equation specifying
irrotationality of the wave phase function gradient. Finite-difference
approximations of these equations are solved to predict wave propagation
outside the surf zone. Solution of the finite-difference expressions of the
governing equations is performed on a rectilinear computational grid that may
be composed of either constant or variably sized rectangular grid cells. The
theoretical basis for the model’s development and a detailed description of
the numerical solution scheme and its implementation are contained in Ebersole
(1985) and Ebersole, Cialone, and Prater (1986). These sources should be
consulted for technical details, as only an overview of the model (focused
toward the data requirements of GENESIS) is given herein. However, one
technical point of importance is the computational stability of the RCPWAVE
solution scheme and the implications it has in the use of RCPWAVE together
with GENESIS.
RCPWAVE computational stability
377. RCPWAVE may become unstable for input wave conditions with
extremely oblique incident wave angles. Consequently, comments concerning the
computational stability of RCPWAVE are in order.

182
 378. In RCPWAVE, the aspect ratio (Ay/Ax) of the computational grid
plays an important role in determining the computational stability of the
numerical solution scheme. It has been empirically determined that the
maximum allowable wave angle (in a given grid cell) may be approximated as the
inverse tangent of the ratio Ay/Ax. Therefore, larger wave angles can be
resolved by the model as this ratio increases. For example, for Ay/Ax = 1,
the maximum local wave angle is approximately 45 deg, and for Ay/Ax = 3 the
maximum local wave angle is approximately 71 deg. However, increasing the Ay
dimension for a specific shoreline reach will decrease the number of discrete
nearshore wave data points available for input to GENESIS, so there is a
trade-off between the ability to resolve the transformation of extremely
oblique wave conditions in RCPWAVE and the resolution of nearshore wave
conditions in GENESIS. For shoreline change modeling efforts, an RCPWAVE
computational grid aspect ratio between 2 and 3 is recommended, and, with
regard to GENESIS, a maximum of 3 or 4 GENESIS cells per RCPWAVE cell in the
alongshore direction is recommended.
379. Consequently, if stability errors are encountered while performing
nearshore wave transformation simulations, one must decide whether to modify
the RCPWAVE bathymetry grid or to approach the problem differently. Consider-
ation should first be given to the actual number of events that are having
stability errors. If the percentage of events is small (say less than
5 percent), it may be more appropriate to rerun the simulations using a
slightly less oblique input wave angle, rather than redigitize or interpolate
the RCPWAVE bathymetry grid to obtain a more favorable aspect ratio. This
procedure will introduce a slight error in the nearshore wave conditions for
those events, but the magnitude of the error (in the nearshore wave angle)
will be less than the imposed error in the input wave angle. For instance,
consider an 8-see wave in 60-ft of water with an incident wave angle of
75 deg; assuming straight and parallel bottom contours, this wave would have
an incident wave angle of 40.2 deg in 20 ft. If a shift of 10 deg (inputing a
65-deg wave angle) were imposed at the 60 ft depth (in order to eliminate
stability errors in RCPWAVE), the resulting shift in the wave angle at the
20-ft depth would be only about 3 deg. This error of 3 deg in the nearshore
wave angle for 5 percent of the wave events while maintaining three GENESIS
cells per RCPWAVE cell may be more acceptable than changing to five GENESIS
cells per RCPWAVE cell to resolve the stability problem.

183
Coordinate system conventions
380. To relate output from one numerical model ~RCPWAVE) to another
(GENESIS), it is necessary, to identify (and understand) the coordinate
systems and conventions used in each. Figure 90 provices an illustration of
the coordinate system and conventions used in GENESIS ~T.dRCPWAVE.
381. The conventions for describing direction of wave propagation (wave
angle) in GENESIS and RCPWAVE are identical. However, as seen in Figure 90,
the location of the origin in the RCPWAVE coordinate system is at the landward
left-hand side of the project reach (with the Y-axis ex:ending alongshore and
X-axis extending offshore), whereas the location of the origin in the GENESIS
coordinate system is at the landward right-hand side of the project reach
(with the X-axis extending alongshore and the Y-axis extending offshore).
This difference in coordinate systems between RCPWAVE and GENESIS requires
end-for-end swapping of wave and water depth data in the alongshore direction.
As shown in Figure 90, the alongshore cell spacing of the RCPWAVE

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/
‘R’’””’ / S BASELINE
1 I I I I I I 11111
SHORELINE
— CALCULATION
CELLS

u (///’

!
NEARSHORE
— , WAVE DATA &
— 3 : REFERENCE
DEPTHS
—
—
—

— L1
—
YGENESIS
—
—
—

- ANGLES + ANGLES
x RCPWVE

Figure 90. RCPWAVE and GENESIS coordinate systems and conventions

184
computational grid is oftentimes coarser than the GENESIS alongshore grid.
The necessary interpolations are performed within GENESIS, with the require-
ment that the RCPWAVE cell spacing is a constant multiple of the GENESIS cell
spacing.
382. Furthermore, because GENESIS is a one-dimensional (l-D) model, the
offshore cell spacing in the RCPWAVE grid does not enter within the context of
shoreline change modeling using GENESIS. The offshore location of the
nearshore wave conditions in GENESIS is determined by the water depth at which
the data were saved.
Wave transformation techniques
383. RCPWAVE provides a steady-state solution of the wave field over
the RCPWAVE computational grid. The wave height and angle at each grid cell
along the nearshore reference line depends on the water depth (a constant) and
the offshore wave height, period, and angle. Because RCPWAVE is based on
monochromatic wave theory, the equations governing wave refraction and
shoaling do not depend on wave height, and nearshore wave transformation
simulations can be performed using a unit wave height as the offshore input,
leaving only two independent variables (offshore wave period and wave angle).
Therefore, if the time series of offshore wave conditions is categorized into
wave angle bands and period bands (with a resolution such that the difference
in the transformation of wave events at the limits of the angle-period bands
is small) , a relatively few (typically between 50 and 100) nearshore wave
transformation simulations can approximate the nearshore wave characteristics
for the entire offshore wave time series. The RCPWAVE solution using this
approach consists of a wave height transformation coefficient and wave angle
at the center of each grid cell for each of the wave angle and period band
combinations.
384. The nearshore wave data requirements of GENESIS are prebreaking
wave height, angle, and water depth alongshore (and wave period, which is
constant over the calculation grid for a selected wave angle and period band).
Consequently, RCPWAVE generates much more information (wave characteristics
over the entire RCPWAVE grid) than is required by GENESIS. In fact, GENESIS
requires only the wave height and angle and the corresponding water depth at
one (RCPWAVE) offshore grid cell for each of the alongshore cells within the
project reach. As stated previously, GENESIS will interpolate between the
alongshore RCPWAVE grid cells (referred to as “wave blocks”) and GENESIS grid

185
 cells (referred to as “shoreline calculation cells”) if the wave block cell
size is greater than the grid cell size in GENESIS. The next section will
discuss input data requirements, generated output, as well as general Operat.
ing procedures, and proposed modifications of the nearshore wave transforma-
tion model RCPWAVE.
RCPWAVE input and output
385. As originally developed, RCPWAVE required two input files, one
containing grid information (specifically the size and number of cells in the
grid) , deepwater wave conditions (height, period, and direction) describing
wave conditions to be simulated, and information controlling the amount of
printed output. The other input file contains bathymetric data for each of
the RCPWAVE grid cells.
386. These basic input requirements remain the same; however, with the
incorporation of RCPWAVE into CMS, the format for their entry has changed.
Because access to RCPWAVE within Corps field offices is primarily through CMS,
this version of the model was adopted as the starting point for the PC version
of RCPWAVE (herein referred to as PC_RCPWV) presently undergoing testing. The
RCPWAVE input data set was designed to resemble the format required by the
series of models released by the US Army Engineer Hydrological Engineering
Center (commonly referred to as the HEC models). Since Corps personnel were
..
already familiar with these HEC models, it was anticipated that this resem-
blance in format would reduce the time needed to learn the CMS system. For
these reasons, this standard input data set will be used in PC— RCPWV.
387. The general format of each record in the input data set is as
follows:
a.
— Each record is divided into 10 fields, each field containing 8
columns .
b
—. Field 1, columns 1 through 8, must contain a card identifica-
tion label.
c.
— Fields 2 through 10 contain data that may be real, integer, or
character in type. Integers must be right-justified. Real
numbers must either either right-justified or contain a
decimal point. Character data entries do not need to be
justified.
d.
— Array data, such as bathymetry, are read with DO or implied DO
loops . No label is required for array data. However, a
general specification record, such as BATHSPEC for bathymetry
data, must precede the array.

186
 388. Attention to proper keying in of card identification labels and
alphanumeric variables is important. Misspelled entries will result in either
recognized error conditions that force the model to abort execution, or the
bypassing of desired user-defined operations, such as bathymetry changes.
389. Certain variables have been assigned default values in the model
to minimize input data and required computer resources. These variables and
their respective default values are noted in the record description. The
default values are representative of those chosen in previous studies per-
formed by CERC. Although default values may not be applicable to all studies,
they can serve as guides when selecting replacement values.
390. Default values are used if the input data record field corre-
sponding to the variable is blank. This means that zero will not necessarily
be the value assigned to a variable field left blank in the input data set.
Therefore, the user must be careful when leaving blank fields in a record.
391. Not all input data records are required in each application. Some
records are optional. This optional record facility was used to incorporate
the additional input data requirements of PC— RCPWV that enable direct use of
RCPWAVE results as input (through application of the programs WTNSWAV and
WTDEPTH) to GENESIS. Tables 3 through 12 define the input records used in
RCPWAVE. Figure 91 shows the RCPWAVE conventions for reading the two dimen-
sional (2-D) bathymetry data. In Figure 91 the variable “V(I,J)” is a dummy
array holding the bathymetry data. Input records and variables within records
may be either required, or optional, defined as follows:
a.
— REQ Record or variable is required for every simulation.
b.
— OPT Record or variable is optional. Omitting this item
results in either the default value being used or the defined
operation (or option) not being performed.

The notation for specifying input data on the record is as follows:

a.
— Char*8 Alphanumeric character string of up to eight
characters .
b
—. Integer Integer data.
c.
— Real Real (floating point) data.
d.
— A* Alphanumeric values.
e.
— +R* Positive real values.
f.
— R* Positive or negative values.

i3. +1* Positive integer values.

—. I*
h Positive or negative integer values.

187
 Table 3
RCPWAVE Input Data Set, FILES Record: REQ

Permitted
Field Variable Tvpe Status Default Data Usape
1 CARDID Char*8 REQ FILES Record identifier.
2 FNPRNT Char*8 OPT RCP_OUT A* File (name) to receive
printed output from this
simulation.

Table 4
RCPWAVE Input Data Set, GENSPECS Record: REQ

Permitted
Field Variable Type Status Default Data Usare
1 CARDID Char*8 REQ GENSPECS Record identifier.
2-9 TITLE Char*64 OPT A* General title for sitnu-
lation.
10 SUNITS Integer OPT ENGLISH ENGLISH Declares the system of
METRIC units for computations
and results.
UNIT ENGLISH METRIC
Length ft m
Time sec sec

Table 5
RCPWAVE Inrmt Data Set. WAVCOND Record: REQ

Permitted
Field Variable Type Status Default Data Usa~e
1 CARDID Char*8 REQ WAVCOND Record identifier.
2 HDEEP Real REQ +R* Deepwater wave height (in
SUNITS).
3 TDEEP Real REQ +R* Wave period.
4 ZDEEP Real REQ R* Deepwater wave angle.
5 CNTRANG Real OPT 0.0 R* Offshore contour angle.
6 DIFFR Char*8 OPT YES YES Determine if topographic
NO diffraction is included.

188
 Table 6
RCPWAVE Input Data Set. WAVMOD Record: OPT’

Permitted
Field Variable Tv~e Status Default Data Usage
1 CARDID CHAR*8 REQ WAVMOD Record identifier.
2 HUTILl Real REQ +R* Wave height ac J=l,
I=XCELLS (in SUNITS).
3 HUTIL2 Real REQ +R* Wave height at J=YCELLS,
I=XCELLS (in SUNITS).
4 ZUTIL1 Real REQ R* Wave angle at J=l,
I=XCELLS.
5 ZUTIL2 Real REQ R* Wave angle at J=YCELLS,
I=XCELLS.

*Note: This record activates explicit specification of wave characteristics

along the offshore boundary of the PC_RCPWV grid. If HUTILl and
HUTIL2 are different, wave heights across the offshore boundary are
linearly interpolated from the specified values at the ends; likewise,
if ZUITL1 and ZUTIL2 are different wave angles are interpolated.

Table 7
RCPWAVE Input Data Set. GRIDSPEC Record: REQ

—
l?ermitted
Field Variable Type Status Default Data Usage
1 CARDID Char*8 REQ GRIDSPEC Record identifier.
2 GRTYPE Char*8 OPT RECTANG A* Cartesian system with
constant-spaced grid
cells (only available
grid type in PC_RCPWV).
3 GUNITS Char*8 OPT ENGLISH ENGLISH System of units for
METRIC grid data.
4 XCELLS Integer REG +1* Number of grid cells in
X-direction (maximum of
75 in PC_RCPWV).
5 YCELLS Integer REG +1* Number of grid cells in
Y-direction (maximum of
100 in PC_RCPW).
6 DX Real REG +R* Spatial step size in X-
direction (in GUNITS).

7 DY Real REG +R* Spatial step size in Y-

direction (in GUNITS).

189
 Table 8
RCPWAVE Input Data Set, BATHSPEC Record: REQ

—
Permitted
Field Variable Tv~e Status Default Data UsaFe
1 CARDID Char*8 REQ BATHSPEC Record identifier.
2 BUNITS Char*8 OPT FEET FEET Units for bathymetry/
METERS topography array.
FATHOMS
3 WDATUM Real OPT o. R* Negative elevation
values (depth) are
added to this datum
value (in BUNITS) .
4 LDATUM Real OPT o. R* Positive elevation
values are added to
this datum (in BUNITS).
5 DLIMIT Real OPT -6000. R* A limiting water ba-
thymetry value (deeper
values are set to this
value in BUNITS).
6 BSEQ Char*8 OPT XY XY The 2-D array of
-XY bathymetry and topogra-
x-Y phy values (which fol-
-x-Y low this record) is
Yx read in a sequence
-Yx specified by this mne-
Y-x monic code (see note
-Y-x for conventions).

7-8 BFORM Char*16 OPT (8G1O.3) A* The FORTRAN format

applicable to the fol-
lowing 2-D bathymetry
array.
9-1o BNAME Char*16 OPT A* Name of bathymetry and
topography data set.

Notes : (1) The actual 2-D array of bathymetry values follows this record.
(2) See Figure 91 for illustrations regarding conventions for BSEQ.

190
 Table 9
RCPWAVE Input Data Set, CHNGBATH Record: OPT

Permitted
Field Variable TvDe Status Default Data Usage
1 CARDID Char*8 REQ CHNGBATH Record identifier.
2 BATH Real REQ R* New bathymetry value
(in BUNITS ... the
datum shifts, WDATUM
and LDATUM will not be
applied to this value.
3 XIINDX Integer REQ I* Collectively, these
four variables declare
4 YIINDX Integer REQ I* the location of the new
bathymetry value as an
5 X21NDX Integer OPT o I* individual cell, a row
(or column) of cells,
6 Y21NDX Integer OPT o I* or a subgrid of cells.

Notes : (1) Use one CHNGBATH record for each value.

(2) All CHNGBATH records must immediately follow the 2-D bathymetry
array data.

Table 10
RCPWAVE Input Data Set, CONVERG Record: OPT

Permitted
Field Variable Tvve Status Default Data Usa~e
1 CARDID Ch’ar*8 REQ CONVERG Record identifier.
2 HCONVR Real OPT 0.0005 +R* Wave height convergence
criteria.
3 SCONVR Real OPT 0.00025 +R* Wave angle convergence
criteria.
4 ITAMAX Integer OPT 50 +1* Maximum number of iter-
ations .
5 IDIFF Integer OPT 15 +1* Maximum number of iter-
ations for diffraction.
6 STABL Real OPT 0.4 +R-k Stability factor.
7 DECAY Real OPT 0.2 +R* Decay factor.

191
 ---—

Table 11
RCPWAVE Input Data Set, PRWINDOW Record: REQ

-. . .
Yermlttea
Field Variable Type Status Default Data UsaKe
1 CARDI D Char*8 REQ PRWINDOkT Record identifier.
2 WXCEL1 Integer OPT 1 +1* Cell indices declaring
the grid subregion for
3 WXCEL2 Integer OPT XCELLS +1* printing the selected
variables. The window
4 WYCEL1 Integer OPT 1 +1* will be bounded by (and
include the region from
5 WYCEL2 Integer OPT YCELLS +1* (WXCEL1, WYCEL1) to
(WXCEL2, WYCEL2).
6-7 WPRVAR Char*16 OPT DAHKB D Bathymetry values.
A Wave angle.
H Wave height.
K Wave number.
B Breaking index.

.$.,.
..
.
.,,
Table 12
RCPWAVE Input Data Set, SAVESPEC Record: OPT*

Permitted
Field Variable TYP e Status Default Data Usage
1 CARDID Char*8 REQ SAVESPEC Record identifier.
2-3 FILOUT Char*16 REQ NSRF.OUT A* Output file name (for
wave heights and angles
along nearshore refer-
ence line.
4-5 NSRFIL Char*16 OPT A* File containing the 1-D
array specifying the X-
cell location of the
nearshore reference
line (see note 3).

*Notes : (1) This record activates the PC_RCPWV option for saving wave condi-
tions along a nearshore reference line.
(2) The actual 1-D array containing the X-cell designation of the
nearshore reference line follows this record.
(3) YCELLS values are required (one value for each alongshore cell).
Reading of this array is in free format (values must be separated
by a space, or a comma, or both).

192
 start
* end

end start

v ,, XY ., 4 ,, -XY
x x
DO J=l, YCELLS DO J=l, YCELLS
READ()( V(I, J), 1=1, XC ELLS ) READ()( V(I, J), I= XC ELLS ,1,-1)

start end *

*
end start

x-Y . 1 ,. -x-Y
x
DO J= YCELLS, l,-1 DO J= YCELLS, l,-l
READ ()( V(I, J), 1=1, XC ELLS ) READ()( V(I, J), I= XC ELLS ,1,-1)

~y

start
start

end
end

., Yx ,,
1
x
-Yx
DO J=l, XC ELLS
DO J=l, XC ELLS READ()( V(I, J), I= YCELLS ,1,-1)
READ()( V(I, J), I-l, YCELLS )

-’f

end
end

start
start

+ -Y-x
Y-x x

DO J= XC EL LS, l,-1 DO J-l, XC EL LS, l,-1

READ()( V(I, J), 1=1, YCELLS !+ EAD()(v (i, J),l=YCELLs, I ,-I)

Figure 91. RCPWAVE conventions for reading of 2-D arrays

193
 392. The two optional input records defined in Tables 6 (WAVMOD record)
and 12 (SAVESPEC record) provide the input data required to activate the
PC— RCPWV modifications that enable direct use of the results by the programs
WTNSWAV and WTDEPTH. These modifications include: (a) explicit specification
of wave conditions along the offshore boundary of the RCPWAVE computational
grid, which may vary linearly in the alongshore direction (activated through
the WAVMOD input record), and (b) specification of the nearshore reference
line and an output file that will contain the wave heights and angles along
the nearshore reference line (activated through the SAVESPEC input record).
393. A sample input data set for RCPWAVE (or PC_RCPWV) is given in
Figure 92. Note that the four optional input records (three WAVMOD records
and one SAVESPEC record) are contained in the sample input data set. The
first WAVMOD card specifies (for the first wave condition) that the wave
height at J=l and 1=40 is 0.90 ft, and at J=36 and 1=40 the wave height is
1.10 ft; likewise, the wave angle at J=l and 1=40 is -14 deg, and at J=36 and
1=40 the wave angle is -8 deg. If a constant wave height is required along
the offshore boundary, the wave heights specified on the WAVMOD should be
equal; similarly, a constant wave angle along the offshore boundary is
specified by equal wave angles on the WAVMOD record. The next two WAVMOD
records specify wave height and angle along the offshore boundary for the
second and third wave conditions. The SAVESPEC record specifies that wave
heights, wave angles, and water depths along the nearshore reference line
should be written to the output file TEST1.NSR. The offshore location (X-axis
coordinate) of the nearshore reference line is listed in the 1-D array that
follows the SAVESPEC record. The nearshore reference line must be defined for
each alongshore coordinate even though only a portion of it may be used (as
will be shown later).
394. The output file TEST1.NSR contains the RCPWAVE output data
required by GENESIS and is the file accessed by the programs WTNSWAV and
WTDEPTH. A listing of this file is provided in Figure 93. Listings of the
standard RCPWAVE output (taken from the file RCP_OUT) of water depths, wave
angles, and wave heights, for the first wave condition are given in Fig-
ures 94, 95, and 96, respectively. Note in Figures 95 through 96 that the
data are listed for I=1O through 40 and J=l through 36 as specified in the
input data set on the PRWINDOW record. The standard RCPWAVE output file
RCP_OUT also contains, in addition to the data shown in Figures 94, 95, and

194
FILES RCP_OUT
GENSPECS WT3?KBOOK EXAMPLE ENGLISH
GRIDSPECRECTANG ENGLISH 40 36 200.0 400.0
WAVCOND 1.0 4.0 -11.0 0.0 YES
WAVMOD 0.90 1.10 -14.0 -8.0
WAVCOND 1.0 6.0 -33.0 0.0 YES
WAVMOD 0.80 1.20 -35.0 -31.0
WAVCOND 1.0 8.0 33.0 0.0 YES
WA~D 1.3 0.7 31.0 33.0
SAVESPEC TEST1.NSR
15 15 15 15 15 15 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 15 15 14 14 14 13 13 13 13 14 13 13 13 13 14 1.4 15 :6 17 17 16 16 16
PRWINDOW 1 26 1 36 DAHKE
BATHSPEC FEET 0.0 0.0 Yx (15F7.1)
-1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1,0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0
-1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0
-1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 ! ROW 1 (x=l,Y=l-36)
-1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0
-1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0
-1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 ! RCW 2 (x=2,Y=1-36
-1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0
-1.0 -1.0 -3.0 -3.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0
-1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 ! ROW 3 (x=3,Y=1-36)
-1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -2.5 -2.5 -2.5 -2.5 -2.5 -2.5 -2.5 -2.5 -2.5
-2.5 -3.0 -5.5 -6.0 -5.0 -5.0 -4.5 -4.5 -4.5 -3.5 -3.5 -2.0 -4.0 -2.5 -2.5
-2.0 -2.5 -1.5 -1.5 -2.0 -2.5 ! ROW 4 (x=3,Y=1-36)
-1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -1.0 -5.0 -5.0 -5.0 -5.0 -5.0 -5.0 -5.0 -5.0 -5.0
-5.0 -6.0 -8.0 -9.0 -10.0 -10.0 -9.0 -9.0 -9.0 -7.0 -7.0 -4.0 -8.0 -5.0 -5.0
-4.0 -5.0 -3.0 -3.0 -4.0 -5.0 ! ROW 5 (x=4,Y=1-36)
-2.0 -2.0 -2.0 -2.0 -3.0 -3.5 -5.5 -5.5 -7.5 -8.0 -8.0 -8.0 -6.0 -9.5 -9.0
-7.5 -9.5 -10.5 -11.0 -11.5 -11.0 -10.0 -10.0 -10.0 -8.5 -9.0 -8.0 -10.0 -8.5 -8.0
-6.0 -7.5 -5.5 -5.5 -7.5 -7.5 ! ROW 6 (x=4,Y=1-36)
-4.0 -4.0 -4.0 -4.0 -6.0 -7.0 -6.0 -6.0 -10.0 -11.0 -11.0 -11.0 -11.0 -14.0 -13.0
-10.0 -13.0 -13.0 -13.0 -13.0 -12.0 -11.0 -11.0 -11.0 -10.0 -11,0 -12.0 -12.0 -12.0 -11.0
-8.0 -10.0 -8.0 -8.0 -11.0 -10.0 !ROW7
-8.0 -8.0 -8.5 -8.5 -9.0 -10.0 -9.5 -9.5 -13.0 -12.0 -13.5 -12.5 -12.5 -14.5 -13.5
-12.5 -13.5 -14.5 -14.0 -13.5 -13.0 -13.0 -12.5 -12.0 -12.0 -12.0 -12.5 -12.5 -12.5 -13.0
-10.0 -11.5 -10.0 -10.0 -12.5 -12.0 !ROW8
-12.0 -12.0 -13.0 -13.0 -12.0 -13.0 -13.0 -13.0 -16.0 -13.0 -16.0 -14.0 -14.0 -15.0 -14.0
-15.0 -14.0 -16.0 -15.0 -14.0 -14.0 -15.0 -14.0 -13.0 -14.0 -13.0 -13.0 -13.0 -13.0 -15.0
-12.0 -13.0 -12.0 -12.0 -14.0 -14.0 !R0W9
-15.0 -14.5 -15.0 -15.0 -15.0 -15.5 -16.5 -16.5 -18.0 -15.0 -16.0 -15.5 -16.0 -15.5 -16.0
-15.5 -16.5 -17.5 -14.5 -16.0 -16.0 -16.0 -14.5 -15.0 -14.5 -14.5 -14.5 -14.5 -14.5 -15.0
-13.0 -14.5 -14.0 -13.5 -14.5 -14.5 ! ROW 10
-18.0 -17.0 -17.0 -17.0 -18.0 -18.0 -20.0 -20.0 -20.0 -17.0 -16.0 -17.0 -lB. O -16.0 -18.0
-16.0 -19.0 -19.0 -14.0 -18.0 -18.0 -17.0 -15.0 -17.0 -15.0 -16.0 -16.0 -16.0 -16.0 -15.0
-14.0 -16.0 -16.0 -15.0 -15.0 -15.0 ! ROW 11
-18.0 -17.0 -17.0 -17.0 -18.0 -18.0 -19.5 -19.5 -19.5 -18.0 -17.5 -18.0 -19.0 -17.0 -18.5
-17.5 -19.0 -19.0 -17.5 -19.5 -19.5 -18.5 -17.0 -19.0 -18.0 -18.0 -18.0 -17.5 -17.0 -16.0
-15.0 -16.0 -16.0 -15.5 -16.0 -16.0 ! ROW 12
-18.0 -17.0 -17.0 -17.0 -18.0 -18.0 -19.0 -19.0 -19.0 -19.0 -19.0 -19.0 -20.0 -18.0 -19.0
-19.0 -19.0 -19.0 -21.0 -21.0 -21.0 -20.0 -19.0 -21.0 -21.0 -20.0 -20.0 -19.0 -18.0 -17.0
-16.0 -16.0 -16.0 -16.0 -17.0 -17.0 ! ROW 13
-19.0 -18.5 -19.0 -19.0 -19.5 -19.0 -20.5 -20.5 -20.5 -20.0 -21.0 -20.5 -2C.5 -19.5 -19.5
-20.0 -21.0 -21.0 -22.0 -22.0 -22.0 -21.0 -21.0 -22.0 -20.5 -20.5 -20.5 -20.0 -20.0 -18.5
-17.5 -17.0 -16.5 -17.0 -18.0 -18.5 ! RCW 14
-20.0 -20.0 -21,0 -21.0 -21.0 -20.0 -22.0 -22.0 -22.0 -21.0 -23.0 -22.0 -21.0 -21.0 -20.0
-21.0 -23.0 -23.0 -23.0 -23.0 -23.0 -22.0 -23.0 -23.0 -21.0 -21.0 -21.0 -22.0 -22.0 -20.0
-19.0 -18.0 -17.0 -18.0 -19.0 -20.0 ! ROW 15
-20.5 -20.5 -21.5 -21.5 -21.5 -21.5 -22.5 -22.5 -22.5 -22.0 -23.0 -23.0 -22.0 -21.5 -21.0
-21.0 -23.5 -23.5 -23.5 -23.5 -23.5 -22.5 -23.5 -23.5 -22.0 -22,5 -21.5 -23.0 -23.0 -21.5
-21.0 -19.5 -19.0 -20.0 -20.5 -21.5 ! ROW 16
-21.0 -21.0 -22.0 -22.0 -22.0 -23.0 -23.0 -23.0 -23.0 -23.0 -23.0 -24.0 -23.0 -22.0 -22.0
-21.0 -24.0 -24.0 -24.0 -24.0 -24.0 -23.0 -24.0 -24.0 -23.0 -24.0 -22.0 -24.0 -24.0 -23.0
-23.0 -21.0 -21.0 -22.0 -22.0 -23.0 ! ROW 17
-21.5 -21.5 -22.0 -22.5 -22.5 -23.0 -23.5 -23.5 -23.5 -23.0 -23.5 -24.0 -23,0 -23.0 -22.5
-23.0 -25.0 -24.5 -24.5 -24.5 -25.0 -24.5 -25.0 -25.0 -24.0 -24.5 -23.5 -25.0 -24.5 -24.0
-23.5 -22.0 -22.0 -23.0 -22.5 -23.5 ! ROW 18

Figure 92. Sample RCPWAVE input data set (Continued)

195
-22.0 -22.0 -22.0 -23.0 -23.0 -23.0 -24.0 -24.0 ‘24.0 -23.0 -24.0 -24.0 -23.0 ‘24.0 -23.0
-25.0 -26.0 -25.0 -25.0 -25.0 -26.0 -26.0 -26.0 -26.0 -25.0 -25.0 -25.0 -26.0 -25.0 -25.0
--24.0 -23.0 -23.0 -24.0 -23.0 -24.0 ! ROW 19
-22.0 -22.5 -22.5 -23.5 -23.5 -24.0 -24.5 -24.5 -24.5 -24.0 -24.5 -24.0 -23.0 -25.0 -25.o
-26.5 -26.5 -26.0 -26.0 -26.0 -26.5 -26.5 -26.5 -26.5 -26.0 -25.5 -25.5 -26.0 -26.0 -25.5
-24.5 -24.5 -24.0 -24.0 -23.5 -25.0 ! ROW 20
-22.0 -23.0 -23.0 -24.0 -24.0 -25.0 -25.0 -25.0 -25,0 -25.0 -25.0 -24.0 -23.0 -26.0 -27.0
-28,0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27,o -25,0 -26.0 -26.0 -27.0 -26.0
-25.0 -26.0 -25.0 -24.0 -25.0 -26.0 ! ROW 21
-22.5 -24.0 -23.5 -24.0 -24.0 -25.0 -25.5 -25.5 -25.5 -25.0 -25,0 -24.0 -23.5 -25.5 -27.0
-28.0 -27.5 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.5 -27.0 -27.0 -26.5 -26.5 -27.0 -27.5 -26.5
-26.0 -26.5 -28.0 -26.0 -27.0 -27.0 ! ROW 22
-23.0 -25.0 -24.0 -24.0 ’24.0 -25.0 -26.0 -26.0 -26.0 -25.0 -25.0 ’24.0 -24.0 -25.0 -27.0
-28.0 -28.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -28.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -28.0 -28.0 -27.0
-27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -28.0 -29.0 -28.0 ! ROW 23
-24.0 -25.0 -24.0 -24.5 -24.5 -25.0 -26.0 -26.0 -26.0 -25.5 -25.5 -24.5 -24.5 -25.0 -27.0
-28.5 -28.0 -27.5 -27.5 -27.5 -27.5 -27.5 -28.0 -27.5 -27.5 -27.0 -27.5 -28.0 -28.5 -27.5
-27.5 -28.0 -27.5 -28.5 -29.0 -28.5 ! RW 24
-25.0 -25.0 -24.0 -25.0 -25.0 -25.0 -26.0 -26.0 -26,0 -26.0 -26.0 -25.0 -25.0 -25.0 -27.0
-29.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -27.0 -28.0 -28.0 -29.0 -28.0
-28.0 -29.0 -28.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 !RCM25
-26.5 -26.0 -24.5 -25.5 -25.5 -25.5 -26.0 -26.0 -26.5 -26.5 -26.5 -27.0 -26.0 -25.5 -27.5
-29.5 -28.5 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.5 -28.5 -29.5 -28.5
-28.5 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.5 ! RCM 26
-28.0 -27.0 -25.0 -26.0 -26.0 -26.0 -26.0 -26.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -29.0 -27.0 -26.0 -28.0
-30.0 -29.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -30.0 -29.0
-29.0 -29.0 -30.0 -29.0 -29.0 -30.0 ! RCW 27
-27.5 -26.5 -25.5 -26.5 -26.5 -26.5 -26.5 -26.5 -27.5 -27.5 -27.0 -28.0 -27.0 -27.0 -29.0
-30.5 -29.0 -28.5 -28.5 -28.5 -28.5 -28.0 -28.0 -27.5 -28.0 -29.5 -29.5 -29.5 -30.5 -30.0
-29.5 -29.5 -30.0 -29.5 -29.5 -30.0 ! ROW 28
-27.0 -26.0 -26.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -28.0 -28.0 -27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -28.0 -30.0
-31.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -28.0 -28.0 -27.0 -28.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -31.0 -31.0
-30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 ! ROW 29
-26.5 -26.0 -26.5 -27.5 -27.5 -27.5 -27.5 -27.5 -28.0 -28.0 -27.5 -27.0 -27.0 -28.0 -30.0
-31.0 -29.0 -29.5 -29.0 -29.0 -28.5 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -29.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -31.0 -31.0
-30.5 -30.5 -30.5 -31.0 -30.5 -30.5 ! ROW 30
-26.0 -26.0 -27.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -27.0 -27.0 -28.0 -30.0
-31.0 -29.0 -30.0 -29.0 -29.0 -28.0 -28.0 -28.0 -29.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -31.0 -31.0
-31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -32.0 -31.0 -31.0 ! RCM 31
-27.0 -27.0 -27.0 -28.0 -28.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -28.0 -27.0 -27.0 -29.0 -30.0
-32.0 -29.0 -31.0 -30.0 -31.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -30.0 -30.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0
-31.0 -31.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 ! ROW 32
-28.0 -30.0 -29.0 -25.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -28.0 -28.0 -29.0 -30.0 -31.0
-33.0 -33.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -30.0 -30.0 -31.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0
-32.0 -33.0 -32.0 -32.0 -33.0 -32.0 ! ROW 33
-28.0 -29.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -29.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -29.0 -30.0 -29.0 -30.0 -30.0 -31.0
-34.0 -36.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -33.0 -33.0 -32.0
-32.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 ! ROW 34
-28.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0
-33.0 -35.0 -35.0 -33.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -33.0 -33.0
-33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 ! ROW 35
-29.0 -29.0 -29.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -31.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -34.0
-36.0 -37.0 -35.0 -33.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -31.0 -32.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0
-33.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -33.0 -33.0 ! ROW 36
-29.0 -29.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -31.0 -31.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -34.0
-36.0 -37.0 -38.0 -33.0 -33.0 -32.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -32.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -34.0 -34.0
-34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 ! ROW 37
-30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -30.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -33.0 -33.0
-35.0 -38.0 -38.0 -35.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33,0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0
-34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 ! ROW 38
-30.0 -30.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -33.0 -33.0
-35.0 -38.0 -36.0 -37.0 -35.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0
-35.0 -35.0 -35.0 -35.0 -35.0 -35.0 ! R(W 39
-31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -31.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -32.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -33.0 -34.0
-35.0 -37.0 -38.0 -36.0 -35.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -34.0 -35.0 -35.0 -35.0
-35.0 -35.0 -35.0 -35.0 -35.0 -35.0 ! ROW 40

Figure 92. (Concluded)

196
WAVE CONDITIONNUMBER 1: HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 4.000 ANGLE= -11,000
1 15 0.8897 ‘12,3520 20.00 13 14 0.9450 -11.8810 20.50 25 13 6.9986 -10.3707 21.00
2 15 0.8897 -12.3520 20.00 14 15 0.9543 ‘11.2445 21.00 26 13 1.0039 -9.8211 20.00
3 15 0.8945 ‘12.3364 21.00 15 15 0.9476 ‘1O.3748 20.00 27 13 1.0051 -9.3530 20.00
4 15 0.8966 -12.3708 21.00 16 14 0.9386 ‘9.3968 20.00 28 14 1.0000 -8.8772 20.00
5 15 0.8999 -12.3058 21.00 17 14 0.9312 -9.5346 21.00 29 14 0.9985 -9.4577 20.00
6 15 0.8958 -11.6712 20.00 18 14 0.9328 -10.1067 21.00 30 15 1.0074 -9.7357 20.00
7 14 0.8957 ‘11.3647 20.50 19 13 0.9405 ‘1O.O524 21.00 31 16 1.0218 -9.5881 21.00
8 14 0.8971 -11.8367 20.50 20 13 0.9527 ‘1O.5243 21.00 32 17 1.0310 -9.1350 21.00
9 14 0.9053 ‘12.1483 20.50 21 13 0.9656 -10.7502 21.00 33 17 1.0333 -8.3536 21.00
10 14 0.9112 -11.7892 20.00 22 13 0.9738 ‘1O.6319 20.00 34 16 1.0278 -7.9179 20.00
11 14 0.9211 ‘11.7460 21.00 23 14 0.9816 -9.9549 21.00 35 16 1.0293 -8.1387 20.50
12 14 0.9305 ‘11.9898 20.50 24 13 0.9866 ‘9.9323 21.00 36 16 1.0293 -8.1387 20.50
WAVE CONDITIONNUMBER 2: HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 6.000 ANGLE= -33.000
1 15 0.8631 -30.0225 20.00 13 14 0.8837 -30.4808 20.50 25 13 0.9906 -29.4019 21.00
2 15 0.8631 ‘30.0225 20.00 14 15 0.9416 -30.3020 21.00 26 13 1.0378 -28.8355 20.00
3 15 0.8628 -30.3318 21.00 15 15 0.9799 -28.0177 20.00 27 13 1.0747 -28.0769 20.00
4 15 0.8683 -30.4371 21.00 16 14 0.9769 ‘25.1OO4 20.00 28 14 1.0845 -26.4752 20.00
5 15 0.8789 -30.3756 21.00 17 14 0.9413 -24.1924 21.00 29 14 1.0792 -27.1269 20.00
6 15 0.8732 ‘28.3472 20.00 18 14 0.9134 -24.8196 21.00 30 15 1.0846 -2Z.9732 20.00
7 14 0.8562 ‘27.3718 20.50 19 13 0.9008 ‘24.8648 21.00 31 16 1.0927 -28.5753 21.00
8 14 0.8602 -27.9235 20.50 20 13 0.9055 -26.3819 21.00 32 17 1.1218 -28.3768 21.00
9 14 0.8396 ‘28.8175 20.50 21 13 0.9214 -27.6698 21.00 33 17 1.1274 -26.7449 21.00
10 14 0.8415 -28.2327 20.00 22 13 0.9488 ‘28.0188 20.00 34 16 1.1295 -25.3861 20.00
11 14 0.8369 ‘28.5835 21.00 23 14 0.9484 -27.1980 21.00 35 16 1.1338 -25.8852 20.50
12 14 0.8486 -29.5555 20.50 24 13 0.9513 -27.4717 21.00 36 16 1.1338 -25.8852 20.50
WAVE CONDITIONNUM8EX 3: HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 8.000 ANGLE= 33.000
1 15 1.3038 28.6382 20.00 13 14 1.0101 25.9374 20.50 25 13 0.8153 25.5069 21.00
2 15 1.3038 28.6382 20.00 14 15 1.0056 26.4121 21.00 26 13 0.8032 25.7634 20.00
3 15 1.2656 29.2892 21.00 15 15 1.0354 26.3285 20.00 27 13 0.7738 25.2467 20.00
4 15 1.2253 28.5237 21.00 16 14 1.0505 27.8425 20.00 28 14 0.7645 24.8362 20.00
5 15 1.1996 28.1241 21.00 17 14 1.0251 27.4160 21.00 29 14 0.7585 22.6308 20.00
6 15 1.1867 27.8268 20.00 18 14 1.0107 26.8230 21.00 30 15 0.7725 22.7325 20.00
7 14 1.1612 27.7163 20.50 19 13 0.9762 27.7380 21.00 31 16 0.7745 24.4143 21.00
8 14 1.1499 26.2820 20.50 20 13 0.9307 26.7149 21.00 32 17 0.7791 25.7744 21.00
9 14 1.1505 26.5580 20.50 21 13 0.8996 26.2424 21.00 33 17 0.7815 27.4792 21.00
10 14 1.1296 27.5728 20.00 22 13 0.8777 25.6493 20.00 34 16 0.7750 26.9136 20.00
11 14 1.0685 27.9094 21.00 23 14 0.8537 27.1101 21.00 35 16 0.7677 26.3395 20.50
12 14 1.0246 26.2257 20.50 24 13 0.8293 26.3850 21,00 36 16 0.7677 26.3395 20.50

Figure 93. PC_RCPWV output file TEST1,NSR

96, a summaryof the input specifications, prototype distances in the computa-

tional grid (in the alongshore and cross-shore directions), and tables similar
to those shown in Figures 94, 95, and 96, for each of the wave conditions
simulated. The shaded data entries shown in Figures 94, 95, and 96 denote
information along the nearshore reference line, and, through comparison with
Figure 93 (wave condition number 1), it is seen that these are the data that
were written to the output file TEST1.NSR.
395. The capability of explicitly specifying wave conditions on the
offshore boundary of the RCPWAVE computational grid was developed for use with
hindcast wave data that have been transformed (using the program WAVETRAN)
from deepwater conditions to the specific water depth along the boundary.
Prior to the addition of this feature, input wave conditions to RCPWAVE were
taken as deepwater conditions, and a simple Snell’s Law transformation was
performed to estimate wave conditions along the offshore boundary. However,

197
 WATER DEPTHS (MULTIPLIEDBY 1! )
I/J: 12345678 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
10: 145 145 150 150 150 155 165 165 180 150 160 155 :50 155 160 155 165 175
11: 170 170 170 170 180 180 200 200 200 170 160 170 180 160 180 160 190 190
12: 170 170 170 170 180 180 195 195 195 180 175 180 :30 170 185 175 190 190
13: 170 170 170 170 180 180 190 190 190 190 190 19C .290180 190 190 190 190
14: 185 185 190 190 195 190 zlltYj#l~;z05200”””4!;0’’”205
2C!5195 195 2UD 210 210
15: #300{~~j$10, ~lo 210 20C!220““220
“220210 230 22C 210 210 200 210 230 23o
16: 205 205 215 215 “215215 225 225 225 220 230 23C 220 215 “21O210 235 235
17: 210 210 220 220 220 230 230 230 230 230 230 240 230 220 220 210 240 240
18: 215 215 220 225 225 230 235 235 235 230 235 240 230 230 225 230 250 245
19: 220 220 220 230 230 230 240 240 240 230 240 240 230 240 230 250 260 250
20: 225 225 225 235 235 240 245 245 245 240 245 240 230 250 250 265 265 260
21: 230 230 230 240 240 250 250 250 250 250 250 240 230 260 270 280 270 270
22: 240 240 235 240 240 250 255 255 255 250 250 240 235 255 270 280 275 270
23: 250 250 240 240 240 250 260 260 260 250 250 240 240 250 270 280 280 270
24: 250 250 240 245 245 250 260 260 260 255 255 245 245 250 270 285 280 275
25: 250 250 240 250 250 250 260 260 260 260 260 250 250 250 270 290 280 280
26: 260 260 245 255 255 255 260 260 265 265 265 270 260 255 275 295 285 280
27: 270 270 250 260 260 260 260 260 270 270 270 290 270 260 280 300 290 280
28: 265 265 255 265 265 265 265 265 275 275 270 280 270 270 290 305 290 285
29: 260 260 260 270 270 270 270 270 280 280 270 270 270 280 300 310 290 290
30: 260 260 265 275 275 275 275 275 280 280 275 270 270 280 300 310 290 295
31: 260 260 270 280 280 280 280 280 280 280 280 270 270 280 300 310 290 300
32: 270 270 270 280 280 290 290 290 290 290 280 270 270 290 300 320 290 310
33: 300 300 290 290 290 290 290 290 290 290 280 280 230 300 310 330 330 310
34: 290 290 300 300 300 290 300 300 300 290 300 290 300 300 310 340 360 310
35: 290 290 290 290 290 290 300 300 300 300 300 310 310 310 310 330 350 350
36: 290 290 290 300 300 300 300 300 300 310 320 320 320 320 340 360 370 350
37: 290 290 300 300 300 300 300 300 300 310 310 320 320 320 340 360 370 380
38: 300 300 300 300 310 310 310 310 310 310 320 320 320 330 330 350 380 380
39: 300 300 310 310 310 310 310 310 310 310 320 320 320 330 330 350 380 360
40: 310 310 310 310 310 320 320 320 320 330 330 330 330 330 340 350 370 380

WATER DEPTHS (MULTIPLIEDBY lo.)

I/J: 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36
10: 140 160 160 160 145 150 145 145 145 145 145 150 130 145 140 135 145 145
11: 145 180 180 170 150 170 150 160 160 160 160 150 140 160 160 150 150 150
12: 175 195 195 185 170 190 180 180 180 175 170 160 150 160 160 155 160 160
;Zlw.. ~j~*~~f&;#6~ 190 2~~;2~&~~~~~
13: ................
......... .. ..... 190 180 170 160 160 160 160 170 170
14: 220 220 220 210 ~:~~220 205 205 205 Z~’;Z~ 185 175 170 165 170 180 180
15: 230 230 230 220 230 230 210 210 210 220”220 ~~ 190 180 170 180 190 190
16: 235 235 235 225 235 235 220 225 215 230 230 Zi5 2:8 195 190 200205 ”:,205
17: 240 240 240 230 240 240 230 240 220 240 240 230 230 zif);Z10220 220 220
18: 245 245 250 245 250 250 240 245 235 250 245 240 235 220 220 230 225 225
19: 250 250 260 260 260 260 250 250 250 260 250 250 2~0 230 230 240 230 230
20: 260 260 265 265 265 265 260 255 255 260 260 255 245 245 240 240 235 235
21: 270 270 270 270 270 270 270 260 260 260 270 260 250 260 250 240 250 250
22: 270 270 270 270 275 270 270 265 265 270 275 265 260 265 260 260 270 270
23: 270 270 270 270 280 270 270 270 270 280 280 270 270 270 270 280 290 290
24: 275 275 275 275 280 275 275 270 275 280 285 275 275 280 275 285 290 290
25: 280 280 280 280 280 280 280 270 280 280 290 280 280 290 280 290 290 290
26: 280 280 280 280 280 280 280 280 285 285 295 285 285 290 290 290 290 290
27: 280 280 280 280 280 280 280 290 290 290 300 290 290 290 300 290 290 290
28: 285 285 285 280 280 275 280 295 295 295 305 300 295 295 300 295 295 295
29: 290 290 290 280 280 270 280 300 300 300 310 310 300 300 300 300 300 300
30: 290 290 285 280 280 280 290 300 300 300 310 310 305 305 305 310 305 305
31: 290 290 280 280 280 290 300 300 300 300 310 310 310 310 310 320 310 310
32: 300 310 290 290 290 290 300 300 310 310 310 310 310 310 320 320 320 320
33: 310 310 310 310 310 310 300 300 310 320 320 320 320 330 320 320 330 330
34: 310 310 310 310 310 310 320 320 320 330 330 320 320 330 330 330 330 330
35: 330 310 310 310 320 320 320 320 320 320 330 330 330 330 330 330 330 330
36: 330 320 320 320 320 320 310 320 330 330 330 330 330 340 340 340 330 330
37: 330 330 320 330 330 330 320 330 330 33’2340 340 3-2 340 340 340 340 340
38: 350 330 330 330 330 330 330 330 340 340 340 340 340 340 340 340 340 340
39: 370 350 340 340 340 340 340 340 340 340 340 340 350 350 350 350 350 350
40: 360 350 340 340 340 340 340 340 340 350 350 350 350 350 350 350 350 350

Figure 94 Standard RCPWAVE output of water depths (from RCP_OUT)

198
 WAVE ANGLES (MULTIPLIEDBY 1.)
I/J: 12345678 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
10: -11 -11 -11 -11 -11 -10 -10 -11 ’12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11 ‘1O -9 -8 -11
11: -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11 -12 -13 -12 -11 -11 -12 -11 -lo -s -9 -11
12: -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -12 -11 -lo -s -9 -lo
13: -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -lo -s -9 -lo
14: -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -Im{”w;’ilzl‘-lz:-lz’:”gy-~-11 -10 -Q -~~ -~~
15: “m:;:~-$z-<z;-:$:;$~ -12 -12”’:12-12 -1’2-12 -12 -Il:iy -~ -10 -II
16: -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -lo -lC -lo -11
17: -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -lo -lo -lo -11
18: -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -lo -lo -11 -11
19: -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -lo -lo -11 -11
20: -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -lo -11 -11 -11
21: -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -lo -11 -11 -11
22: -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -13 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -lo -11 -11 -11
23: -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -lo -11 -11 -11
24: -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -lo -11 -11 -11
25: -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11 -11
26: -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11 -11
27: -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11 -11
20: -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -13 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11 -11
29: -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11 -11
30: -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11 -11
31: -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11 -11
32: -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11 -11
33: -14 -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11
34: -14 -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11
35: -14 -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11
36: -14 -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11 -11
37: -14 -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11
38: -14 -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11
39: -14 -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11
40: -14 -14 -14 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -13 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -12 -11 -11 -11

WAVE ANGLES (MULTIPLIEDBY 1.)

I/J: 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36
10: -lo ‘9 -10 -11 -10 -9 -10 -9 ‘9 -9 -9 ’11 ‘9 ‘8 -8 ‘7 ‘7 ‘7
11: -9 -9 -11 -11 -9 -9 -10 -9 -9 -9 -10 -10 -9 -8 -9 -8 ‘7 -7
12: -10 -10 -11 -11 -10 -10 -10 -10 -9 -9 -10 -10 -10 -9 -8 -7 ‘7 -7
13: -9 -lo -lo -lo -9 -8 -7 -7 -7
14: ......... “Sjljj”$
....... -lo -lo -9 -8 -7 -7 -7
15: -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 $*+J-lo -9 -8 ;; ::;.!....:.!
16: -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 “:9 *go -9 -8 ~~
.+f,~+y
17: -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -lo -WIH!
... ....... -8 ‘“-8 -8
18, -11 -11 -11 -11 -10 -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8 -8
19: -11 -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
20, -11 -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
21: -11 -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
22: -11 -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
23: -11 -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
24: -11 -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
25: -11 -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9
26: -11 -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8
27: -11 -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8
28: -11 -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8
29: -11 -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
30: -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
31: -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
32: -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
33: -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
34: -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
35: -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
36: -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
37: -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
38: -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
39: -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8
40: -11 -11 -11 -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -lo -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -9 -8 -8 -8

Figure 95 Standard RCPWAVE output of wave angles (from RCP_OUT)

199
 WAVE HEIGHTS (MULTIPLIEDBY lo.)
I/J: 12345678 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
10: 99999999 99999999 99
11: 9 9 9 999 99999999 9999
12: 9 9 9 999 99999999 9999
13: 9 9 9 999 9999999 99999
14: 9 9 9 999
15: 9 :.’9.9
16: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 io 9999
17: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 9 9 9 10
18: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 9 9 9 10
19: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 9 9 10 10
20: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10
21: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10
22: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10
23: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10
24: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10
25: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10
26: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
27: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
28: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
29: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
30: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
31: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
32: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
33: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
34: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
35: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
36: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
37: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
38: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
39: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
40: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10

WAVE HEIGHTS (MULTIPLIEDBY 10.)

I/J: 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36
10: 99 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
11: 99 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
12: 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
13: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
14: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
15: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 *g 10 10 10 10 10 10
16: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 % 10 10
17: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
18: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
19: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
20: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
21: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11
22: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11
23: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11
24: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11
25: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11
26: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11
27: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 11
28: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11
29: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11
30: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11
31: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11
32: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11
33: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11
34: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11
35: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11
36: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11
37; 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11
38: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11
39: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11
40: 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11

Figure 96. Standard RCPWAVE output of wave heights (from RCP_OUT)

200
this procedure precluded use of the more refined spectral transformation and
wave sheltering features of the program WAVETRAN.
396. Note that the wave angles (Figure 95) and wave heights (Figure 96)
along the offshore boundary (1=40) are not constant, but vary linearly between
-14 and -8 deg for wave angles and between 0.9 and 1.1 ft for wave heights.
This added feature to RCPWAVE has been found to be useful at locations where
sheltering of wave energy is significant. However, evaluation of the wave
height and angle gradients requires the use of two wave hindcast stations, one
at each end of the project reach. In addition, the offshore time series used
in GENESIS (the input file WAVES.ext) is developed by averaging the wave
heights and angles from the two hindcast stations. This concludes the
discussion of the external wave transformation model RCPWAVE.
397. Other wave transformation models could be used to estimate the
nearshore wave conditions required by GENESIS, provided that prebreaking wave
heights, wave angles, and associated water depths at uniform alongshore
spacing are included in the output. However, use of other wave transformation
models will either preclude the use of the programs WTNSWAV and WTDEPTH or
require modification of these programs. The remainder of this chapter is
devoted to presentation of the programs WHEREWAV, WTNSWAV, WTDEPTH, and
NSTRAN .
WHEREWAV

Introduction
398. The program WHEREWAV is a utility program that computes various
statistical properties of the input time series of wave conditions. Consider-
ing that there could be up to 2,920 unique offshore wave events in a typical
GENESIS simulation using a 6-hr time-step and a l-year-long offshore wave time
series consisting of two wave conditions (sea and swell) per time-step, the
shoreline modeler must make some assumptions concerning nearshore wave
transformation and the number of simulations required. The program WHEREWAV
was designed to aid in the selection of representative classes of offshore
wave conditions for which nearshore wave transformation simulations should be
performed, and it is based on typical procedures used in numerous shoreline
change studies conducted at CERC. A listing of the source code for the
program WHEREWAV is provided in Appendix I.

201
Calculation Procedure
399. WHEREWAV categorizes wave events in the offshore time series by
wave period (referred to as “period bands”) and direction of wave propagation
(referred to as “angle bands”), and then reports the number of wave events
occurring within each of the period and angle band categories. Input require-
ments beyond specification of the input and output file names include:
(a) input file format; (b) convention of wave angles (determined by WIS Phase
type); and (c) shoreline orientation with respect to north.
400. First, the program computes the number of possible wave approach
angle bands and their boundaries. This computation is achieved by comparing
the user-specified shoreline orientation with a 360-deg template of sixteen
22.5-deg-wide angle bands centered on the compass directions of north, north-
northeast, northeast, east-northeast, etc. Figure 97 provides a schematic
illustration of the angle band template. Next, the program reads the input
time series of offshore wave conditions, and, for each wave event (statistics
for sea and swell wave events are computed individually), the program performs
the following classification checks and computations. If the wave event is
calm or describes a wave traveling offshore, it is counted (as a calm or
offshore traveling event), and the next event is processed. If the event
pertains to a wave traveling onshore, it is counted within its direction of
approach angle band and period band (Table 13 provides a listing of the period
band designations). Output for each angle band includes: (a) the number of
events occurring within the angle band; (b) the overall average wave angle;
(c) the overall average wave height; and (d) the period bands encountered
within the angle band. Likewise, output for each period band includes:
(a) the number of events occurring within the period band; (b) the overall
average wave period; (c) the overall average wave height; and (d) the angle
bands encountered within the period band. With these output tables the
shoreline modeler can evaluate the number of nearshore wave transformation
simulations required to describe the transformation of the offshore wave time
series to the nearshore reference line.
Example amlications
401. The following example applications demonstrate the utility of the
program and provide guidance for the interpretation of the output. Input data
files to the program WHEREWAV can be either standard WIS wave time series
retrieved from SEAS or CEDRS, or time series generated by the workbook

202
 NNW \ N / NNE

NE

sw/’’’’’41i\”Hsk
‘Sswl ‘T----Fro‘ ‘
SSE
s

------ Angle Band Centers

— Angle Band Boundaries

AnQ[e Band width = 22 5 deg

Figure 97. Template of potential wave approach angle bands

programs RCRIT, WAVETRAN, or WTWAVTS. With modification, the program WHEREWAV

can be rewritten to read any wave time series, as demonstrated in Example 3.
402. Example 1. In this example, the input is a standard SEAS time
series. The file name of this input file is WVSEAS.DAT and is the same input
file used previously in the RCRIT, WTWAVTS, and WTWAVES examples (a listing of
the file is provide in Figure 12). The program is executed by issuing the
command WHEREWAV at the PC prompt.
403. The program responds by prompting for entry of the input file name
and extension. If the file is not in the default directory, the appropriate
path should also be entered. For this example, the name WVSEAS.DAT is
entered. This file must exist (it represents the input), or the program will
terminate.
404. The next prompt issued requests entry of the file name of the
output file; in this example, the file name SEASOUT is entered. Note that the

203
 Table 13
Period Band Designation Within WHEREWAV

Period Band Range of Wave

Number Period (see)
1 0.0 < T < 5.0
2 5.0 —
<T< 7.0
3 7.O<T< 9.0
4 9.O<T<ll.O
—
5 11.0 <T
— < 13.0

6 13.0 < T < 15.0

7 15.0 <T<17.O
8 17.0 <T < 23.0

output file name extension is m requested and should not be entered. The
program will assign the extension .WW (indicating that the file is output from
the program WHEREWAV) to all output files. This file may or may not exist.
If the file already exists, it will be overwritten; otherwise, a new file will
be created.
405. Next, WHEREWAV prompts for specification of the input data format.
The available options are: (1) SEAS, (2) OUTPUT FROM ANOTHER WORKBOOK CODE
(Header and Format similar to SEAS), (3) CEDRS, (4) OUTPUT FROM ANOTHER
WORKBOOK CODE (Header and Format similar to CEDRS), and (5) other. In the
present example, the input time series was retrieved using SEAS, so the value
1 is entered. The other options will be discussed as they are encountered.
406. The next prompt requests the user to define the input time series
data type, and the options available are (1) Phase I, (2) Phase II, and
(3) Phase III. These data types refer to the three phases of the WIS hind-
casts , and the input is used to determine the coordinate system convention of
the wave angles. In this example, the input time series was retrieved from
the WIS data base using SEAS for Phase II Station 28, and the value 2 is
entered. The last prompt issued by WHEREWAV before the computations begin is
a request for entry of the shoreline orientation in degrees measured clockwise
from north. In this example, a shoreline orientation of 54 (deg) was entered.
407. WHEREWAV then proceeds to perform the previously described
computations and writes the results to the user-specified output file

204
(SEASOUT.WW) . A listing of the file SEASOUT.WW is provided in Figure 98,
which shows that the time series WVSEAS.DAT contains 48 records with two
events (wave conditions) per record. There were 22 calm swell events and 32
offshore-traveling sea events, leaving 16 sea events and 26 swell events that
will produce longshore sand transport. According to the classification of
wave events by angle band, the majority (13 events) of the sea events are
approaching from the angle band centered about east-northeast, and all (26
events) of the swell events are approaching from the east-northeast. The
tables, which classify the waves by period, show that the sea wave conditions
range between 3 and 9 see, with the longer wave periods corresponding to
larger wave heights. For swell wave conditions, wave periods range between 8
and 13 see, and again it is noted that the longer wave periods are associated
with larger wave heights. The overall average swell wave height is approxi-
mately 4.1 m, whereas the overall average sea wave height is approximately
2.2 m.
408. For complete representation of sea wave conditions contained in
the offshore time series, seven nearshore wave transformation simulations
should be performed; for swell wave conditions, four nearshore wave transfor-
mation simulations should be performed. A list of the deepwater wave charac-
teristics (height, period, and angle) for these 11 nearshore wave transforma-
tion simulations is given in Table 14 (based on the data given in Figure 98).
409. Note in Table 14 that the average wave angle within a specific
angle band is input in the nearshore wave transformation simulation. Like -
wise, the average wave period within a specific period band is input in the
nearshore wave transformation simulation. The intent is to represent, as
closely as possible, all wave events within a given (angle-period band)
classification. Therefore, use of average conditions seems to be more appro-
priate than using the central value of the band, although nearshore wave
transformation simulations using central values have been used with success in
previous shoreline change studies.
410. Example 2. In this example, the WIS Phase III time series
generated in WAVETRAN Example 1 and listed in Figure 64 will serve as the
input time series. Responses to the program prompts are as follows:
a.
— Input file name: OUTITST.PH3
b
—. Output file name: PH30UT

205
 WAVE CLASSIFICATION& STATISTICSFOR INPUT TIME SERIES: WVSEAS.DAT
THE FOLLOWINGCLASSIFICATIONSARE BASED ON A SHORELINEORIENTATIONOF: 54,00

NLJMBEROF RECORDS PROCESSED. . 48

NUMBER OF CALM SEA EVENTS.......... ........ 0
NUMBEROF CALM SWELL EVENTS....... . .... 22
NUMBEROF OFFSHORE TRAVELINGSEA EVENTS. 32
NUMBER OF OFFSHORE TRAVELINGSWELL EVENTS.., 0

DEFINITIONOF ANGLE BANDS CI;:NITIONOF PERIOD BANDS

ANGLE BAND RANGE WITH RESPECT RANGE WITH RESPECT PERIODBAND NC IUNGE OF WAVE PERIODS
NUMBER TO NORTH TO SHORE-NORMAL 1 0.0< T < 5.o
1 54.00 : 56.25 90.00 : 87.75 2 5.0< T < 7.o
2 56.25 : 78.75 87.75 : 65.25 3 7.0; T < 9.0
3 78.75 : 101.25 65.25 : 42.75 4 9.0< T <11.0
4 101.25 : 123.75 42.75 : 20.25 5 11.0; T <13.0
5 123.75 : 146.25 20.25 : -2.25 6 13.0: T <15.0
6 146.25 : 168.75 -2.25 : -24.75 7 15.05 T <17.0
7 168.75 : 191.25 -24.75 : -47.25 8 17.0: T -=23.0
8 191.25 : 213.75 -47.25 ; -69.75 9 23.0~ T
9 213.75 : 234.00 -69.75 : -90.00

CLASSIFICATIONOF SEA WAVE EVENTS BY ANGLE BAND CLASSIFICATIONOF SEA WAVE EVENTS BY PERIOD

ANGLE BAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVSRAGE PERIOD PERIODBAND NO. OF A~GE AVERAGE ANGLE
NUMBER EVENTS ANGLE HEIGHT BANDS NDMBER SVENTS PSRIOD HEIGHT BANDs
1 1 88.00 76.00 1 1 5 3.80 83.00 123
2 13 73,69 250.38 1234 2 5 5.20 142.60 2 3
3 2 57.50 108.00 12 3 4 7.75 386.25 2
4 0 4 2 9.00 437.00 2
5 0 5 0
6 0 6 0
7 0 7 0
8 0 8 0
9 0 9 0

CLASSIFICATIONOF SWSLL WAVE EVENTS BY ANGLE BAND CLASSIFICATIONOF SWELL WAVE EVENTS BY PERIOD

t ANGLE BAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVERAGE PERIOD PERIODBAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVEFAGE ANGLE
NOMBER EVENTS ANGLE HEIGHT BANDS NUMBER EVENTS PERIOD HEIGHT BANDS
1 o 1 o
2 26 71,35 409.96 3456 2 0
3 0 3 1 8.00 125.00 2
4 0 4 6 9.83 185.17 2
5 0 5 5 11.60 368.40 2
6 0 6 14 13.00 541.50 2
7 0 7 0
; 8 0 8 0
9 0

Figure 98. WHEREWAV Example 1: Output file SEASOUT.WW

206
 Table 14
Nearshore Wave Transformation Simulations for WHEREWAV Example 1

Wave Height* Wave Angle Wave Period

Simulation No. m de~ sec

Sea Wave Conditions

1 1 88.0 3.8
2 1 73.7 3.8
3 1 73.7 5.2
4 1 73.7 7.8
5 1 73.7 9.0
6 1 57.5 3.8
7 1 57.5 5.2

Swell Wave Conditions

8 1 71.4 8.0
9 1 71.4 9.8
10 1 71.4 11.6
11 1 71.4 13.0

* All simulations will be performed for a unit wave height, and the RCPWAVE
output height along the nearshore reference will be used as a height
transformation coefficient (multiplier) for transforming the offshore wave
height.

c.
— Input data format: 2 (OUTPUT FROM ANOTHER WORKBOOK CODE;
header and format similar to SEAS)
d.
— Number of events per record: 2
e.
— Input data type: 3 (PHASE III)
f
—. Shoreline orientation: O

411. Note in line ~ of the user responses that the program prompts for
the number of events per record. This prompt is required because the input
time series in this example was generated by another workbook program, and the
time series may or may not contain two events per record.
412. A listing of the output file PH30UT.WW is provided in Figure 99.
This time series was fabricated for demonstrating the program WAVETRAN in
Part V, and the symmetrical nature of the wave statistics is shown in Fig-
ure 99. A comparison of the average wave angle statistics reported in the sea
and swell wave classification by angle band tables (Figure 99) shows a
difference of less than 5 deg. Consequently, for this input time series, the
RCPWAVE nearshore transformation of sea and swell wave conditions could be
simulated irrespective of wave type, reducing the number of simulations from

207
 WAVE CLASSIFICATION& STATISTICSFOR INPUT TIME SERIES: OUTITST PH3
THE FOLLCWINGCLASSIFICATIONSARE BASED ON A SHORELINEORIENTATIONOF: 0.00

NUMBER OF RECORDS PROCESSED................. 51

NUMBER OF CALM SEA EVENTS................... 0
NUMBER OF CALM SWELL EVENTS....... ......... 0
NUMBER OF OFFSHORE TFAVELING SEA EVENTS..... 0
NUMBE7/OF OFFSHORE TRAVELINGSWELL EVENTS... 0

DEFINITIONOF ANGLE BANDS DEFINITIONOF PERIOD BANDS

ANGLE BAND RANGE WITH RESPECT RANGE WITH RESPECT PERIODBAND NO. RANGE OF WAVE PERIODS
TO NORTH TO SHORE-NORMAL 1 0.0< T -=5,0
1 0.00 : 11.25 90.00 : 78.75 2 5.o~ T < 7.o
2 11.25 : 33.75 78.75 ; 56.25 3 7.o< T < 9.0
3 33.75 ; 56.25 56.25 : 33.75 4 9.0~ T <11.0
4 56.25 : 78.75 33.75 : 11.25 5 11.0~ T -=13.0
5 78.75 : 101.25 11.25 : -11.25 6 13.05 T -=15.0
6 101.25 : 123.75 -11.25 : -33.75 7 15.0~ T <17.0
;-.
.,.- 7 123.75 : 146.25 -33.75 : -56.25 8 17.0: T <23.0
8 146.25 : 168.75 -56.25 : -78.75 9 23.0~ T
. , 9 168.75 : 180.00 -78.75 : -90.00

CLASSIFICATIONOF SEA WAVS EVENTS BY ANGLE BAND CLASSIFICATIONOF SEA WAVE EVENTS BY PERIOD

ANGLE BAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVEIUGE PERIOD PERIODBAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVERAGE ANGLE
NUMBER ANGLE HEIGHT BANDS NUMBER EVENTS PERIOD HEIGHT BANOS
1 o 1 17 3.00 248.35 2 3 4 5
2 2 64.95 120.55 1 678
3 4 44.95 165.35 14 2 o
4 10 21.44 160.90 149 3 0
5 19 0.00 235.79 149 L 17 10.00 152.79 345
6 10 -21.44 160.90 149 67
7 4 -44.95 165.35 14 5 0
8 2 -64.95 120.55 1 6 0
9 0 7 0
8 0
9 17 25.00 157.86 456

CLASSIFICATIONOF SWELL WAVE EVENTS BY ANGLE BAND CLASSIFICATIONOF SWELL WAVE EVENTS BY PERIOD

ANGLE BAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVERAGE PERIOD PERIODBAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVERAGE ANGLE
NllFt73ER EVENTS ANGLE HEIGHT BANDS NUMBER EVENTS PERIOD HEIGHT BANOS
1 o .L 17 3.00 250.82 2 3 4 5
2 3 65.87 141.27 1 678
3 4 41.83 142.07 14 2 o
4 10 20.66 164.10 149 3 0
5 17 0.00 256.18 149 b 17 10.00 154.98 345
6 10 -20.66 164.10 149 67
7 4 -41.83 142.07 14 5 0
8 3 -65.87 141.27 1 6 0
9 0 7 0
8 0
9 17 25.00 160.15 456

Figure 99. WHEREWAV Example 2: Output file PH30UT.WW

208
30 to 15. Table 15 provides a listing of the RCPWAVE offshore boundary wave
conditions (remember these data are ~ deepwater conditions) .
413. Example 3. In this example, a wave data set as retrieved from the
WIS data base using CEDRS is input to the program WHEREWAV. A listing of this
input time series is provided in Figure 16 (Part III). Responses to the
program prompts are as follows:
a.
— Input file name: WVCEDRS.DAT

b.
— Output file name: CEDRSOUT

c.
— Input data format: 3 (CEDRS)
d.
- Input data type: 2 (PHASE II)
e.
— Shoreline orientation: 348

414. Figure 100 provides a listing of the output file (CEDRSOUT.WW)

generated as a result of this example application of the program WHEREWAV.
For this input time series, 10 nearshore wave transformation simulations are
required to represent the transformation of the offshore wave time series to
nearshore wave conditions. Table 16 provides a listing of the deepwater wave
conditions that would be input to RCPWAVE (based on the data listed in
Figure 100). Note that simulation numbers 5 and 10 could be combined

Table 15
Nearshore Wave Transformation Simulations for WHEREWAV Example 2*

Wave Height Wave Angle Wave Period

Simulation No. m de~ sec

1 1 65.5 3.0
2 1 43.4 3.0
3 1 43.4 10.0
4 1 21.0 3.0
5 1 21.0 10.0
6 1 21 0 25 0
7 1 0.0 3.0
8 1 0.0 10.0
9 1 0.0 25.0
10 1 -21.0 3.0
11 1 -21.0 10.0
12 1 -21 0 25 0
13 1 43.4 3.0
14 1 43.4 10.0
15 1 65.5 3.0

‘ Sea and swell wave conditions.

209
WAVE CLASSIFICATION& STATISTICSFOR INPUT TIME SERIES: WVCEDRS DAT
THE FOLLu041NG
CLASSIFICATIONSARE BASED ON A SHORELINEORIENTATIONOF: 348.00

NUMBER CFRECORDS PROCESSED...... .. ... .. 48

NUM8ERC? CALM SEA EVENTS................... 0
NUMBER CT CALM SWELL EVENTS ...... .. .. 10
NUMBER ~; OFFSHORE TRAVELINGSEA EVENTS.., 29
NUMBER C? OFFSHORE TRAVELINGSWELL EVENTS. 3

DEFINITIONOF ANGLE BANDS DEFINITIONOF PERIOD BANDS

ANGLE BAND FANGE WITH RESPECT M04GE WITH RESPECT PERIOD BAND NO. RANGE OF WAVE PERIODS
NUM8ER TO NORTH TO SHORE-NORMAL 1 0.0< T< 5.0
1 348.00 : 348.75 90.00 : 89.25 2 5.0: T < 7.0
2 348.75 : 11.25 89,25 : 66.75 3 7.0s T < 9.0
3 11.25 : 33.75 66.75 : 44.25 4 9.05 T <11.0
4 33.75 : 56.25 44.25 ; 21.75 5 11.05 Tc13. O
5 56.25 : 78.75 21.75 : -0.75 6 13.05 T -=15.0
6 78.75 : 101.25 -0.75 : -23.25 7 15.0: T <17.0
7 101.25 : 123.75 -23.25 ; -45.75 8 17.0: T <23.0
8 123.75 : 146.25 -45.75 : -68.25 9 23.O~T
9 146.25 : 168.00 -68,25 : -90.00

CLASSIFICATIONOF SEA WAVE EVENTS BY ANGLE BAND CLASSIFICATIONOF SEA WAVE EVENTS BY PERIOD

ANGLE BAND NO. OF AVSRAGE AVERAGE PERIOD PERIOD BAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVERAGE ANGLE
NUMBSR EVENTS ANGLE HEIGHT BANDS NUMBER EVENTS PSRIOD HEIGHT BANDS
1 o 1 11 3.27 0.53 789
2 0 2 6 5.50 1.60 489
3 0 3 2 7.00 3.20 89
4 1 38.00 1.90 2 4 0
5 0 5 0
6 0 6 0
7 4 -42.50 0.58 1 7 0
8 7 -54.29 1.09 123 8 0
9 7 -79.57 1.43 123 9 0

CLASSIFICATIONOF SWELL WAVE EVENTS BY ANGLE BAND CLASSIFICATIONOF SWELL WAVE EVENTS BY PERIOD

ANGLE BAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVERAGE PERIOD PERIOD BAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVERAGE ANGLE
NUMBER EV2NTS ANGLE HEIGHT BANDS NUFIBER EVENTS PERIOD HEIGHT BANDS
1 o 1 o
2 0 2 0
3 0 3 35 7.83 0.95 78
4 0 4 0
5 0 5 0
6 0 6 0
7 26 -44.42 0.90 3 7 0
8 9 -54.44 1.09 3 8 0
9 0 8 0

Figure 100. WHEREWAV Example 3: Output file CEDRSOUT.WW

210
 Table 16
Nearshore Wave Transformation Simulations for WHEREWAV Example 3

Wave Height Wave Angle Wave Period

Simulation No. m de~ sec

Sea Wave Conditions

1 1 38.0 5.5
2 1 -42.5 3.3
3 1 -54.3 3.3
4 1 -54.3 5.5
5* 1 -54.3 7.0
6 1 -79.6 3.3
7 1 -79.6 5.5
8 1 -79.6 7.0

Swell Wave Conditions

9 1 -44.4 7.8
10* 1 -54.4 7.8

* These simulations could be performed irrespective of wave type using a

deepwater angle of -54.4 deg and wave period of 7.5 sec.

(nearshore wave transformation performed without regard to wave type),

reducing the number of required simulations from 10 to 9.
415. Example 4. In this example, the output file (CEDRSOUT.CTS)
containing the time series that was generated from RCRIT Example 2 (shown in
Figure 18) serves as the input. Responses to the program prompts are as
follows:
a.
— Input file name: CEDRSOUT.CTS

b.
— Output file name: CEDRSCTS

c.
— Input data format: 4 (OUTPUT FROM ANOTHER WORKBOOK CODE;
header and format similar to CEDRS)
d.
— Input data type: 2 (PHASE II)
e.
— Number of events per record: 2
f.
— Shoreline orientation: 348

416. Note in line g of the user responses that the program prompts for
the number of events per record. This prompt is required (as in Example 2)
because the input time series in this example was generated by another
workbook program, and the number of events per record is unknown.
417. A listing of the output file PH30UT.WW is provided in Figure 101.
Remember, the input time series (CEDRSOUT.CTS) was generated by the program

211
WAVE CLASSIFICATION& STATISTICSFOR INPUT TIME SERIES: CEDRSOUTCTS
THE FOLLCWINGCLASSIFICATIONSARE BASED ON A SHORELINEORIENTATIONOF: 348.00

NUMBER OF RECORDS PROCESSED................. 48

NUMBER OF CALM SEA EVENTS................... 32
NUMBER OF CALM SWELL EVENTS................. 13
NUMBER OF OFFSHORE TRAVELING SEA EVENTS..... 0
NUMBER OF OFFSHORETRAVELING SWELL EVENTS... 0

DEFINITIONOF ANGLE BANDS DEFINITIONOF PERIOD BANDS

ANGLE BAND RANGE WITH RESPECT RANGE WITH RESPECT PERIOD BAND NO. RANGE OF WAVE PERIODS
TO NORTH TO SHORE-NORMAL 1 0.0< T < 5.0
1 348.00 : 348.75 90.00 : 89.25 2 5.0: T c 7.0
2 348.75 : 11.25 89.25 : 56.75 3 7.05 T < 9.0
3 11.25 : 33.75 56.75 : 33.25 4 9.0< T -=11.0
4 33.75 : 56.25 33.25 : 11.75 5 11.0; T -=13.0
5 56.25 : 78.75 11.75 : -0.75 6 13.0: T -=15.0
6 78.75 : 101.25 -0.75 : -33.25 7 15.05 T <17.0
7 101.25 : 123.75 -33.25 : -56.75 8 17.0~T<23. O
8 123.75 : 146.25 -56.75 : -78.25 9 23.0s T
9 146.25 : 168.00 -78.25 : -90.00

CLASSIFICATIONOF SEA WAVE EVENTS BY ANGLE BAND CLASSIFICATIONOF SEA WAVE EVENTS BY PERIOD

ANGLE BAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVERAGE PERIOD PERIODBAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVSRAGE ANGLE
NUMBER EVENTS ANGLE HEIGHT BANDS NUM8ER EVENTS PERIOD HEIGHT BANDS
1 o 1 8 3.63 0.63 789
2 0 2 6 5.50 1.60 489
3 0 3 2 7.00 3.20 89
4 1 38.00 1.90 2 4 0
5 0 5 0
6 0 6 0
7 4 ‘42.50 0.58 1 7 0
8 6 -52.67 1.20 123 8 0
9 5 -79.60 1.92 123 9 0

CLASSIFICATIONOF SWELL WAVE EVENTS BY ANGLE BAND CLASSIFICATIONOF SWELL WAVE EVENTS BY PERIOD

ANGLE BAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVERAGE PERIOD PERIODBAND NO. OF AVEIL4GE AVERAGE ANGLE
NUMBER EVENTS ANGLE HEIGHT BANDS NUMBER EVENTS PERIOD HEIGHT BANDS
1 o 1 o
2 0 2 0
3 0 3 35 7.83 0.95 78
4 0 4 0
5 0 5 0
6 0 6 0
7 26 ‘44.42 0.99 3 7 0
8 9 -54.44 1.09 3 8 0
9 0 9 0

Figure 101. WHEREWAV Example 4: Output file CEDRSCTS,WW

212
RCRIT (using the time series WVCEDRS.DAT as input) in Part III. Therefore, a
comparison of the WHEREWAV statistics shown in Figures 100 and 101 will
reflect the effect of processing the time series WVCEDRS.DAT through RCRIT.
Note in Figure 101 that no offshore-traveling events were encountered in the
time series CEDRSOUT.CTS (the program RCRIT flags all offshore traveling and
below threshold events as calms). Note also that the same number of nearshore
wave transformation simulations would be required. RCRIT typically does not
reduce the number of required nearshore wave transformation simulations, but
does significantly reduce the number of computations (and execution time)
required in a GENESIS simulation. Because RCRIT eliminated only three below-
threshold sea events and no swell events, the statistics for swell wave
conditions are identical in Figures 100 and 101. However, for sea wave condi-
tions in angle bands 8 and 9, both the average wave height and the average
wave period increased. This is a typical result of the program RCRIT (short-
period, low-amplitude, wave events from oblique angle bands are eliminated
from the offshore time series).
418. Example 5. In this example, a time series from a wave gage is
input to the program WHEREWAV. The purpose of this example is to demonstrate
how to modify the source code for WHEREWAV (WHEREWAV.FOR) to operate on wave
gage data. A listing of the wave gage time series was given in Figure 19.
419. Before any changes are made to the file WHEREWAV.FOR, it is
strongly recommended that the file WHEREWAV.FOR be copied to another file name
such as WHEREWVG.FOR (where the letter G denotes that the program has been
customized to read the user’s wave gage time series) . In WHEREWAV.FOR there
are four comment blocks that denote areas where modifications must be made.
These comment blocks and the pertinent lines of FORTRAN code are listed in
Figure 102.
420. The header information for the wave gage data shown in Figure 19
contains a station identification number, the number of records in the file,
and the water depth (in meters). The only portion of this header information
required by the program WHEREWAV is the number of records; however, the
program also requires the number of events per record and the shoreline
orientation. These values are needed in Area 1 as shown in Figure 102.
Figure 103 shows one way of loading this information into the program. As
shown if Figure 103, the number of records in the time series (NEVENTS) is
read from the file header, whereas a prompt is issued for the shoreline

213
Area 1
15 WRITE(*)*) ‘ This code must be modified to read your specific’
WRITE(*,*) ‘ input file header !‘
GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
In this section read past the input file header (if any), and prompt for
or read the shoreline orientation. Load the shoreline orientation
into the program variable SHOANG, and assign the number Of events per
c record and total of records to the variables NpER and NEVENTS.
number
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Area 2
ELSE
‘ This
WRITE(*,*) code must be modified to read your specific
&input time series !’
GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section read the wave event(s) from the input file (one record
C at time). Read the height, period, and angle of the first wave event
C into the program variables CH, CT, and CTH. If there are two events per
C record, read the second wave height, period, and angle into SH, ST, STH.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF
Area 3
ELSE
WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to convert your spec
&ific’
WRITE(*,*) ‘ coordinate system to one with respect to north. ‘
GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section, convert the first wave event angle from the coordinate
C system of the input time series, to an angle describing the direccion
C from which the wave is propagating with respect to north, and check for
C offshore traveling events.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF
Area 4
ELSE
WRITE(*)*) ‘ This code must be modified to convert your spec
&ific’
WRITE(*,*) ‘ coordinate system to one with respect to north.’
GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section, convert the second wave event angle from the coordinate
C system of the input time series, to an angle describing the direction
C from which the wave is propagating with respect to north, and check for
C offshore traveling events.
C??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
ENDIF

Figure 102. Lines where WHEREWAV.FOR must be modified to read

wave gage time series

214
 c 15 wRITE(*)*) ‘ This code must be modified to read your specific’
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ input file header !‘
c GOTO 35
c????????? ~?????????????????? ??’??????-?’????????’?? ???????????7???????????????
c In this section read past the input file header (if an’<, and prompt for
c or reac :he shoreline orientation. Load the sl-.oreline :zientation
c into t~.s program variable SHOANG, and assign the number of events per
c record and total number of records to the variables NPE2.and NEVENTS.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
c---
c new seccion for reading past the wave gage time series header
c---
15 READ(99,*) STAID,NEVENTS
WRITE(*,*) ‘ Enter the shoreline orientation (in degrees, clockwis
&e from north): ‘
READ(*,*) SHOANG
NEPR=l
c---
c end of new section for reading past the wave gage time series header
c---

Figure 103. New lines of code for Area 1, WHEREWAV.FOR

orientation and the number of events per record (NPER) is assigned the
value 1.

421. The next section of code (Area 2 in Figure 102) that must be
modified performs the operation of reading each record of data in the input
time series. The program requires only the wave height, period, and angle.
The date information is not required by WHEREWAV. Consequently, the date data
are read into dummy variables, and the wave height, period, and angle are read
into the program variables CH, CT, and CTH, respectively, as shown in Fig-
ure 104.
422. In Area 3 (shown in Figure 102), the wave angle (as read from the
input time series) must be converted to an angle that describes the direction
from which the wave is traveling, and a check for offshore traveling waves
must be performed. Figure 105 provides one way of accomplishing this task.
423. Note, in Figure 105, that the wave height (CH) and wave period
,
(CT) are assigned to the height and period transfer variables HINC and TINC,
respectively. Next, the wave angle (CTH) is converted from an angle that
describes the direction in which the wave is traveling to an angle describing
the direction from which the wave is traveling. This conversion is accom-
plished by adding 180 cleg to the wave angle (CTH). Then, if the converted
angle is greater than 360 deg, it is reduced by 360 deg. The next task

215
 ELSE
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to read your specific
c &input time series !’
c GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
c In this section read the wave event(s) from the input file (one record
C at time). Read the height, period, and angle of the first wave event
C into the program variables CH, CT, and CTH. If there are two events per
c record, read the second wave height, period, and angle into SH, ST, 5TH.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
c---
c new section for reading the input time series
c---
READ(99,*) IDUM, IDUM, IDUM, IDUM,CH,CT,CTH
c---
c end of new section for reading the input time series
c ---
ENDIF
Figure 104, New lines of code for Area 2, WHEREWAV.FOR

ELSE
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ This code must be modified to convert your spec
c &ific’
c WRITE(*,*) ‘ coordinate system to one with respect to north. ‘
c GOTO 35
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
C In this section, convert the first wave event angle from the coordinate
C system of the input time series, to an angle describing the direction
C from which the wave is propagating with respect to north, and check for
C offshore traveling events.
c??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
c---
c new section for converting the input wave angles
c---
c load transfer variables for height (HINC) and period (TINC)
HINC=CH
TINC=CT
c convert wave angle -> direction from which wave is traveling
CTH=CTH+180.
IF(CTH.GT. 360. )CTH=CTH-360.
c compute wave angle w.r.t. shore-normal
ZINC=SHORNORM(CTH)
c check for offshore traveling waves
lF(ZINC.LT. -90. .OSINCNGTGT. 90.) THEN
ICOFF=ICOFF+l
ICFIAG=-1
ENDIF
c---
C end of new section for reading the input time series
c---
ENDIF
Figure 105. New lines of code for Area 3, WHEREWAV.FOR

216
$4.

1-
*
involves performing
traveling

incremented
offshore,

by one,
a check
then

and
the

the
for offshore

offshore

offshore
traveling

traveling wave
waves;

counter
if the wave

(lcOFF’)

traveling wave flag (ICFLAG) should be

is

should be

set to -1. To accomplish this task, the wave angle is first converted to an
angle with respect to shore-normal (where waves propagating from a direction

to the left of shore-normal are negative and wave propagating from a direction
to the right of shore-normal are positive) by calling the program function
i
sHORNOW and assigning the result to the program variable ZINC. Then, if ZINC

is greater than 90 deg, or less than -90 deg, the wave is traveling offshore
and the variable ICOFF is incremented by 1 and the offshore traveling wave
flag (ICFLAG) is set to -1.
424. Because the wave gage time series contains only one event per
record, no modifications are required in Area 4 shown in Figure 102. If the
input time series contained two events per record, the swell wave condition

would be converted in this section of code. A procedure similar to that shown

in Figure 105 could be used, except that the variable names would change.
425. The program WHEREWVG is now capable of reading the input wave gage
time series, performing the appropriate computations, and writing the statis-
tical output tables. The file WHEREWVG.FOR must now be compiled and linked to
I obtain an executable program. Users must perform these functions with their
own software and equipment.
426. In the execution of the program WHEREWVG, the file name WVGAGE.DAT
is entered at the program prompt for the input file name, and the file is
assumed to exist in the default directory. Otherwise, the appropriate path
together with the file name must be specified.
427. The program then prompts for the output file name; in this example
the output file name GAGEOUT is entered. The program will assign the exten-
sion .WW to the user-specified output file name.
428. The next prompt issued by WHEREWVG requests entry of the input
data format type. Because in this case the input format is neither SEAS nor
CEDRS, the value 5 is entered, indicating that a nonstandard (other) input
format is being used.
429. The last prompt issued before the computations begin is a request
for the shoreline orientation in degrees measured clockwise from north. In
this example, a shoreline orientation of 135 deg was entered (corresponding to
the local shoreline orientation landward of the gage).

217
 430. The output file GAGEOUT.WW is ltsted in Figure 106. A total of

seven nearshore wave transformation slmulztlons WOU~d be required to represent

the transfoL-mation of the input wave gage time series. Table 17 provides a

listing of the RCpwAVE offshore boundary wave conditions (the ..:ave gage time

series is for a specific water depth, u deepwzter conditions) Note, in

Figure 106, that all the wave events in the wave gage time series Occur in

angle band 5, and, as seen from Table 17, the wave angle along the Offshore

boundary of the RCPWAVE grid is the same (-2.5 deg) for each of the wave
transformation simulations. The reason for this similitude is that the wave

gage data correspond to a water depth of 8.2 m, and most of the waves have

WAVE CLASSIFICATION& STATISTICSFOR INPUT TIME SERIES: WVGAGE.DAT

CLASSIFICATIONSARE BASED ON A SHORELINEORIENTATIONOF: 135.00
THS FOLLCW?ING

NUI-E3ER
OF RECORDS PRCZESSED................. 48
NUM8EROF CALM SEA EVENTS................... 0
NUMBEROF OFFSHORETRAVELINGSEA EVENTS..... 0

DEFINITIONOF ANGLE BANDS DEFINITIONOF PERIODBANDS

ANGLE BAND RANGE WITH RESPECT PANGE WITH RESPECT PERIOD BAND NO. RANGE OF WAVE PERIODS
NUMBER TO NORTH TO SHORE-NORMAL 1 (IO< T < 5.o
1 135.00 : 146.25 90.00 : 78.75 2 5.0: T < 7.0
2 146.25 : 168.75 78.75 : 56.25 3 7.0~ T < 9.o
3 168.75 : 191.25 56.25 : 33.75 4 9.0~ T <11.0
4 191.25 : 213.75 33.75 : 11.25 5 11.0~ T -=13.0
5 213.75 : 236.25 11.25 : -11.25 6 13.0-5T <15.0
6 236.25 : 258.75 -11.25 : -33.75 7 15.05 T <17.0
7 258.75 : 281.25 -33.75 : -56.25 8 17.0: T <23.0
8 281.25 : 303.75 -56.75 : -78.75 9 23.0~ T
9 303.75 : 315.00 -78.75 : -90.00

CLASSIFICATIONOF SEA WAVE EVENTS BY ANGLE BAND CLASSIFICATIONOF SEA WAVE EVENTS HY PERIOD

ANGLE BAND NO. OF AVENAGE AVERAGE PERIOD PERIOD BAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVERAGE ANGLE
NDMBER EVENTS ANGLE HEIGHT BANDS NUMBER EVENTS PERIOD HEIGHT BANDS
1 o 1 o
2 0 2 2 5.00 69.00 5
3 0 3 6 7.00 96.33 5
4 0 4 4 9.00 118.00 5
5 48 -2.48 96.25 2345 5 2 11.00 100.50 5
678 6 16 13.00 87.13 5
6 0 7 11 15.00 105.91 5
7 0 8 7 19.14 96.00 5
8 0 9 0
9 0

Figure 106. WHEREWAV Example 5: Output file GAGEOUT.W

218
4
-w Table 17
-Q Nearshore Wave Transformation Simulations for mEREWAV Example 5

Wave Height Wave Angle Wave Period

Simulation So. m cie~ sec
1 1 -2.5 5.0
2 1 -2.5 7.0
3 1 -2.5 9.0
4 1 -2.5 11.0
5 1 -2.5 13.0
6 1 -2.5 15.3
7 1 -2.5 19.1

already refracted to a nearly shore-normal orientation. A more refined

approximation could be achieved if the average wave angle were computed for
each of the wave period bands, and the nearshore transformation simulations
were performed using this average wave angle. These computations were made,
and the new wave inputs are listed in Table 18.
Summary
431. The program WHEREWAV uses a pragmatic approach in the classifi-
cation of offshore wave conditions, and may, for certain regions, require
adjustment of the wave angle and period bands. The establishment of 22.5-deg
angle bands centered on the primary compass directions, is based on the WIS
wave generation and propagation numerical models that use 22.5-deg directional

Table 18
Nearshore Wave Transformation Simulations for WHEREWAV ExamDle 5 (Refined)*

Wave Height Wave Angle Wave Period

Simulation No. m de~ sec
1 1 -8.0 5.0
2 1 -3.0 7.0
3 1 -4.8 9.0
4 1 -6.5 11.0
5 1 -1.1 13.0
6 1 -3.0 15.3
7 1 -0.1 19.1

* The wave angles shown in this table reflect the average angle for the
specific period band as opposed to the average angle for the entire angle
band (shown in Table 17).

219
 energy bins to describe the wave spectra. For other data, such as shallow-
water wave gage data, narrower angle bands may allow for a more detailed
description of the offshore data.
432. The division of offshore wave periods into six 2-see period bands
between 5 and 17 sec and one 6-see period band between 17 and 23 see, with one
band covering wave periods below 5-see and another covering wave periods above
23 see, was developed from experience with the nearshore wave transformation
model RCPWAVE. For some locations, particularly in the Great Lakes, these
suggested period bands may require modification to include a more detailed
description of the shorter period waves. Likewise, additional period bands
for describing longer period waves may be required for sites along the Pacific
coasts. However, modification of the wave angle and period bands, will
require modification of not only the program WHEREWAV, but also the programs
WTNSWAV, NSTRAN, and a subroutine within GENESIS, and will require assistance

i from CERC.

i
WTNSWAV

433. The program WTNSWAV reads nearshore wave information from a

special RCPWAVE output file (specified on the SAVESPEC input record, shown in
Table 12) and writes a NSWAV.ext file for input to GENESIS. The NSWAV.ext
file is a ~ GENESIS input file not described in the Technical Reference and
is required if an external wave transformation model is being used. The data
in the NSWAV.ext file consist of an offshore wave identification key (which
relates the nearshore wave data to offshore waves occurring from a specific
angle-period band and height band if required) followed by a nearshore wave
height transformation coefficient (or actual wave height, if height bands are
required), and wave angle. The program WTNSWAV will construct the NSWAV.ext
file from output of the external wave transformation model RCPWAVE. A listing
of the source code for WTNSWAV is provided in Appendix J.
434. The offshore wave identification key is constructed using a four-
character integer. The first character designates the wave type, which can be
either sea or swell. If the nearshore wave data correspond to sea wave condi-
tions, the first character is assigned the value 1. If the nearshore wave
data correspond to swell wave conditions, the first character is assigned the
value 2. The second character designates the height band. If the nearshore

220
wave transformations were performed using an input unit wave height, this
character is assigned the value 1. If nearshore wave transformation simula.
tions were performed for specific wave height bands (a maxi~m Of nins wave

height bands can be specified), the second character contairs the height ban~
number corresponding to the RCPWAVE input wave height. The zhird character
designates the angle band. The value of the third character corresponds co
the angle band number associated with the RCPWAVE input wave angle and maY
range between 1 and 9. The fourth character in the offshore wave identifica-
tion key designates the period band. The value of the fourth character
corresponds to the period band number associated with the RCPYJAVE input wave

period and may range between 1 and 9.

435. The nearshore wave data are stored in a compressed format that
uses a seven-character integer variable (given the variable name lZH in
GENESIS). The sign (first character) of IZH is always associated with the
nearshore wave angle, because a negative wave height has no meaning. The

second through fourth characters define the wave height transformation coeffi-

cient or actual wave height (if wave height bands are required). The location

of the decimal is dependent on the system of units being used. If metric

units are used, the decimal is located between the second and third characters

(yielding wave heights to the nearest centimeter), whereas if American

customary units are used, the decimal is located between the third and fourth

characters (yielding wave heights to the nearest tenth of a foot). The fifth

through the seventh characters designate the wave angle to the nearest tenth

of a degree (the decimal is located between the sixth and seventh characters),

and the sign of the angle is obtained from the sign of lZll (first character) .

436. Similar to the other GENESIS input files, NSWAV.ext contains a

four-line file header; however, unlike the other GENESIS input files., this

header contains information required by GEliESIS. Therefore, the format and

positional location of the data in the NSWAV.ext file header are important.

Specifically, the shoreline orientation (RCPWAVE and GENESIS baseline orienta-

tion) must appear in the first line Of the NSWAV.ext file header beginning in

position 62 using an F7.2 FORTRAN edit descriptor; the RCPWAVE cell associated

with the first and last wave blocks must appear in the second line using an 14

FORTRAN edit descriptor and beginning in positions 21 and 31, respectively.

The number of unique nearshore wave events (equal to the number of different
offshore wave identification keys) must appear in the third line of the

221
NSWAV.ext file header beginning in position 10 using an 14 FORTRAN edit
descriptor. The program WTNSWAV will Construct the required file header.

Calculation procedure
437. The program WTNSWAV reads data from the RCPWAVE output file speci-
fied on the SAVESPEC record (shown in Table 12), calculates an offshore wave
identification key, reformats the nearshore wave heights and angles, and
writes an NSWAV.ext file for input to GENESIS. Output from several different

nearshore wave transformation simulations (multiple input files) may be

written to the same output file, as will be demonstrated in Examples 3 and 4
below.
438. Computationally, the first task performed by the program is to
read the RCPWAVE input wave information (the offshore wave height, period, and
angle) and compute an offshore wave identification key. Then the nearshore”
wave information (the nearshore wave height or transformation coefficient and
nearshore wave angle) at the user-specified RCPWAVE grid cells are read and
compressed into the seven-character variable (lZH) discussed previously and
required by GENESIS. Then the key, followed by the nearshore wave informa-
tion, is written to the output file, and the next wave condition is processed.
When the number of user-specified wave conditions have been processed, the
program prompts for another input file. Depending on the user response to
this prompt, the program will either process another input file or terminate.
Operation of the program is demonstrated in the following section.
Example applications
439, Operation of the program WTNSWAV will be demonstrated through five
example applications. Examples 1 through 4 use the RCPWAVE output file
TEST1.NSR (listed in Figure 93) as input. Example 5 demonstrates specifica-
tion of the wave height band classification utility.
440. Example 1. Execution of the program is initiated by issuing the
command WTNSWAV at the PC prompt. The program responds by prompting for the
input file name and extension. If the input file is not located in the
default directory, the appropriate path should also be entered. For this
example, the name TEST1.NSR is entered. This file must exist (it represents
the input), or the program will terminate.
441. The next prompt issued by the program requests input of the output
file name without the extension. The program WTNSWAV assigns the extension
.NSW (denoting ~ear~hore Eaves) to all output files. For this example, the

222
name OUT1 is entered. At this point, the program scans the default directorY
for the file OUT1.NSW. If the directory scan determines that the file does
not exist, then a new file named OUT1.NSW is created. However, if the

directory scan finds the user-specified oU~Put file, the program prompts for
disposition of the existing file, which may be appexd, ove~~rite, or enter a
new output file name. Regardless, in this example a new file is opened.

442. Next, the program prompts for the RCPWAVE baseline orientation.
Remember, the RCPWAVE and GENESIS baseline orientations must be equivalent in
shoreline change modeling. For this example, the value 0.0 is entered,
indicating that the baseline is oriented on a north-south line with the water
(ocean) on the east side.
443. The next prompt requests entry of the number of alongshore RCPWAVE
cells. From the RCPWAVE input data set (GRIDSPEC record, YCELLS variable),
shown in Figure 92, and defined in Tables 3 through 12, it is seen that the
number of alongshore RCPWAVE cells is 36. So, for this example, the value 36

is entered. Since the RCPWAVE grid typically extends beyond the GENESIS grid
in the alongshore direction, GENESIS requires only a subset of the data along
the nearshore reference line. Consequently, the program requires specifica-
tion of the RCPWAVE coordinates corresponding to the GENESIS model reach.
Hence, the next prompt requests specification of the RCPWAVE coordinate
corresponding to the first wave block. For this example, the value 4 is
entered. The next prompt requests specification of the RCPWAVE coordinate
corresponding to the last wave block, and, for this example, the value 33 is
entered.
444. The next program prompt asks whether or not sea and swell wave
types are transformed differently, and the available options are 1 (indicating
yes, sea and swell wave types are transformed differently) and O (indicating
no, sea and swell wave types are not transformed differently). For this
example, the value O is entered, meaning that nearshore wave transformation
simulations were performed without regard for wave type.
445. Next, the program prompts for entry of the system of units used in
the RCPWAVE simulations. The value 1 indicates that American customary units
were used or that wave heights are given in feet, whereas entering the value 2
indicates the metric units were used or that wave heights are given in meters.
For this example, the value 1 is entered.

223
 446. Next , the program prompts for entry of the number of wave cases
(number of simulations) in the input file. In the present example, the input
file contains three different wave conditions, so the value 3 is entered.
447. The next program prompt requests specification of the number of
height bands required to describe the suite of nearshore wave transformation
simulations. Normally, the use of wave height bands is not required; however,
in some instances where large shallow shoals are present in the nearshore
bathymetry and wave breaking occurs for larger wave heights, but not for
smaller wave heights, classification of offshore wave conditions by wave
height bands are required. Example 5 will demonstrate use of the wave height
band classification utility. In this example, unit wave heights were input to
RCPWAVE, so the value 1 is entered (indicating that only one height band is
required.
448. At this point, the program WTNSWAV performs the necessary computa-
tions and writes the output nearshore wave data to a scratch file. Before
writing the final output file, the program issues another prompt asking if the
user wants to add another input file. If the user responds negatively to this
prompt, the program writes the output file header and then copies the pro-
cessed data from the scratch file to the output file and terminates. If the
user responds positively to this prompt, the program WTNSWAV issues a series
of input specification prompts, compares these input specifications to the
previous user responses, and, if there are no differences, processes the new
input data set. Therefore, more than one input data set can be processed in a
single session, as will be demonstrated in Example 3. For this example, only
one input data set will be processed, so the value O is entered, indicating a
negative response to the add-another-input-file prompt. WTNSWAV then writes
the output file header, copies the processed nearshore wave data from the
scratch file to the output file, and terminates.
4G9 . Figure 107 contains a listing of the output nearshore wave data
file OUT1.NSW. Note, in Figure 107, that the output file header contains the
file name, the shoreline orientation, the beginning and ending wave block
numbers, the total number of alongshore RCPWAVE cells, the number of unique
nearshore wave events, and the system of units associated with the height
transformation coefficient. Also note that the offshore wave identification
key is only three characters in length, meaning that sea and swell wave
conditions within the same angle-period band classification will use the same

224
set of nearshore wave conditions to describe the transformation from offshore
to the nearshore reference line. Consequently, the wave type indicator (the
first character in the key) in the offshore wave identification key is not
required.
450. In the input file (TEST1.NSR) shown in Figure 93, it is noted that
the solutions (wave height and angle along the nearshore reference line) for
three input wave conditions are contained in the file. The output file

(OUT1.NSW) shown in Figure 107 contains three offshore wave keys, each
followed by three lines of compressed nearshore wave data. Starting with the
offshore wave identification keys, notice that each of the keys start with the
value 1 (which is really in the second position of the key), indicating that
the wave event resides within height band one. The next character indicates

the angle band number, and for the first wave condition, the value is 5. This
means that the offshore wave condition came from angle band 5 which, for a
shoreline orientation of O deg, is between 11.25 and -11.25 deg with respect
to shore-normal (see Figure 99 for a definition of angle bands for a shoreline
orientation of O deg). The second wave condition corresponds to an offshore
wave from angle band 6 (between -11.25 and -33.75 deg), and the third from
angle band 4 (between 33.75 and 11.25 deg). The last character in the

offshore wave identification key designates the period band. Table 13 lists

the range of wave periods contained within each of the period bands. Note
that the first wave condition is from period band 1 (less than 5 see), the
second is from period band 2 (greater than or equal to 5 sec and less than 7

FILE: OUT1.NSW SHORELINE ORIENTATION: 0.00

DATA AT WAVEBLOCKS 4 THRU 33 FROM 36 ALONGSHORE RCPWAVE CELLS
CONTAINS 3 UNIQUE NEARSHORE WAVE EVENTS. WAVE HEIGHTS IN FEET*1O.
*********************************************************************
151
-10084 -10091 -10096 -10097 -10095 -10089 -10094 -10098 -10104 -10099
-10100 -10106 -10108 -10105 -9101 -9101 -9095 -9094 -9104 -10112
-9119 -9120 -9117 -9118 -9121 -9118 -9114 -9117 -9123 -9124
162
-11267 -11284 -11286 -11280 -11271 -11265 -11281 -10288 -10294 -10275
-9272 -9280 -9277 -9264 -9249 -9248 -9242 -10251 -1028O -9303
-9305 -8296 -8286 -8282 -8288 -8279 -9274 -9283 -9304 -9304
143
8275 8258 8244 8227 8226 8248 8252 8258 8255 8264
9271 9256 9262 9267 10277 10268 10274 11278 10263 10264
10259 10262 11279 11276 12266 11263 12277 12278 12281 12285

Figure 107. WTNSWAV Example 1: Output file OUT1.NSW

225
see) , and the third wave condition is from period band 3 (greater than or
equal to 7 sec and less than 9 see). Consequently, the first wave condition

corresponds to an offshore wave identification key of 151 (height band one,

angle band five, and period band one) , the second to 162 (height band one,
angle band six, and period band two) , and the third wave condition to 143
(height band one, angle band four, and period band three).
451. The nearshore wave height transformation coefficient and wave
angle are listed in using a 1017 FORTRAN editing format and may be decoded as
follows. Note the first nearshore wave condition (listed as -10084) following
the offshore wave identification key 151 in Figure 107. This nearshore wave
height transformation coefficient and angle combination corresponds to the
wave height and angle at alongshore RCPWAVE cell number 33 (remember, the
orientation of the alongshore axis in RCPWAVE is opposite to that of GENESIS,
which requires an end-for-end exchange of the data) listed as 1.0333 ft and
-8.3536 deg, in Figure 93. Since the system of units is American customary,
the height is converted to an integer to the nearest one-tenth of a foot, or
10, and then multiplied by 1000 to obtain 10000. Then the wave angle is
converted to an integer to the nearest one-tenth of a degree or -84. The
absolute value of the angle is then added to the height transformation
coefficient to obtain the number 10084. Finally, the nearshore height-angle
number is given the sign associated with the nearshore wave angle, which gives
the final height-angle value of -10084. The remainder of the compressed
nearshore wave data may be decoded in a similar manner. For instance, the
last entry for the first wave condition is -9124, which corresponds to the
wave height transformation coefficient of 0.8966 ft (taken as 0.9 ft or 9) and
angle of -12.3708 deg (taken as -12.4 deg or 124) given for RCPWAVE alongshore
coordinate number 4.
452. Example 2. This example application will use the same input data
set as in Example 1, except this time the units for wave height will be speci-
fied as being meters. Again, execution of WTNSWAV is initiated by issuing the
command WTNSWAV at the PC prompt. Responses to the program prompts in this
example are as follows:
a.
— Input file name: TEST1.NSR
b
—. Output file name: OUT2
c.
— Baseline orientation: 0.0
d.
— Number of alongshore RCPWAVE cells: 36

226
 e
—. RCPWAVE coordinate corresponding to first ~zve block: 4
f.
— RCPWAVE coordinate corresponding to last wz-:eblock: 33

g. Are SEA and SWELL wave types transformed differently: O (NO)

h
—. Wave height units: 2 (METERS)
~. Number of wave conditions in input file: 3

i. Number of wave height bands: 1

k
-. Process another input file: O (NO)

453. Figure 108 provides a listing of the output file 0UT2.NSW. Note
in Figure 108 that the offshore wave identification keys are the same as those
calculated in Example 1, as they should be because there is only one height
band, and the angle-period bands are independent of the system of units being
used. However, the compressed nearshore wave data are different. This
difference results because, if wave heights are given in meters, the height
portion of the compressed nearshore wave height-angle data set is given to the
neare’st hundredth of a meter (centimeters). The angle portion is given to the
nearest tenth of a degree, as before. Therefore, the first nearshore wave
height-angle number for the first wave condition (-103084) corresponds to the
wave height transformation coefficient of 1.0333 m and wave angle of -8.3536
deg given in Figure 93 for RCPWAVE alongshore coordinate number 33. Similar-
ly, the last nearshore wave height-angle number for the first wave condition
(-90124) corresponds to the wave height transformation coefficient of 0.8966 m
and wave angle of -12.3708 deg given in Figure 93 for RCPWAVE alongshore
coordinate number 4.

FILE: 0UT2,NSW SHORELINE ORIENTATION: 0.00

DATA AT WAVEBLOCKS 4 THRU 33 FROM 36 ALONGSHORE RCPWAVE CELLS
CONTAINS 3 UNIQUE NEARSHORE WAVE EVENTS. WAVE HEIGHTS IN METERS*1OO
**************&*********************************************k*****~**k*
151
-lO3O84-lO3O9l-lO2O96-lOlO97-lOOO95-lOOO89-lOlO94-lOOO98-lOOlO4 -99099
-98100 -97106 -97108 -95105 -94101 -93101 -93095 -94094 -95104 -95112
-94119 -93120 -92117 -91118 -91121 -90118 -90114 -90117 -90123 -90124
162
-ll3267-ll2284-lO9286-lO828O-lO827l-lO8265-lO728l-lO4288 -99294 -95275
-95272 -95280 -92277 -91264 -90249 -91248 -94242 -98251 -98280 -94303
-88305 -85296 -84286 -84282 -84288 -84279 -86274 -87283 -88304 -87304
143
78275 78258 77244 77227 76226 76248 77252 80258 82255 83264
85271 88256 90262 93267 98277 101268 103274 105278 104263 101264
101259 102262 107279 113276 115266 115263 116277 119278 120281 123285

Figure 108. WTNSWAV Example 2: Output file 0UT2,NSW

227
 454. Example 3. This example application will demonstrate the avail.
able program options and error checking that are enacted when the specified

output file already exists. Therefore, in order to cause the program to issue
the “existing output file prompts,” a file named 0UT3.NSW is created by
isstiingthe command: COPY 0UT2.NSW 0UT3.NSY at the PC prompt while in the

def2ult directory. Responses to the program prompts are as follows:

a.
— Input file name: TEST1.NSR

b.
— Output file name: 0UT3
c
—. Disposition of existing output file: 1 (append the file)
d.
— Baseline orientation: 0.0
e.
— Number of alongshore RCPWAVE cells: 36
f.
— RCPWAVE coordinate corresponding to first wave block: 4

g. RCPWAVE coordinate corresponding to last wave block: 33

h.
— Are SEA and SWELL wave types transformed differently: 1 (YES)
j-. Wave height units: 2 (METERS)

455. At this point, the program compares the input specifications

against the data contained in the existing output file, and if differences are
found (as in this example), an error message is written to the PC monitor, and
the program terminates. The error message displayed in this example is:
The append file does not agree with your inputs . . .
Check your notes concerning . . .

SEA and SWELL waves transformed differently:

File = NO; Input specification = YES

WT1:SWAV compares the input specifications given in lines @ through ~ with the
data in the existing output file. In this example, WTNSWAV detected a differ-
ence in the input specification concerning the sea and swell wave trans-
formations. At this point, the program has terminated, and the specified
input and output files are as they were before execution of the program. The
user must now resolve the differences and rerun the program. In this example,
the method of resolution will be to overwrite the existing output file.
Responses to the program prompts are as follows:
a.
- Input file name: TEST1.NSR

b
—. Output file name: 0UT3
c.
— Disposition of existing output file: 2 (overwrite the file)
d.
- Baseline orientation: 0.0
e.
- Number of alongshore RCPWAVE cells: 36

228
 f
—. RCPWAVE coordinate corresponding to first wave block: 4

23. RCPWAVE coordinate corresponding to last 1~7ave

block: 33
h.
— Are SEA and SWELL wave types transformed differently: 1 (YES)

~. Wave height units: 2 (METERS)

i. Number of wave conditions in input file: 3

k,
- Type of wave events; 1 (SEA)
1.
- Number of height bands: 1
m.
- Process another input file: 1 (YES)
n.
- Input file name: TEST1.NSR

0.
- Baseline orientation: 0.0

F!. Number of alongshore RCPWAVE cells: 36

~. RCPWAVE coordinate corresponding to first wave block: 4

r-
- RCPWAVE coordinate corresponding to last wave block: 33
s.
- Are SEA and SWELL wave types transformed differently: 1 (YES)
t
-. Wave height units: 2 (METERS)
u.
- Number of wave conditions in input file: 3
v
-. Type of wave events: 2 (SWELL)
w.
- Number of height bands: 1
x.
- Process another input file: O (NO)

456, Note, in lines ~ and y, that if sea and swell waves are trans-
formed differently, the program requires entry of the wave type. The impor-
tant implication here is that the program WTNSWAV can accommodate only one
wave type for a given input file. Therefore, in performing the nearshore wave
transformation simulations, different runs should be made for sea and swell
wave types. In line ~, processing of another input file was requested; this
option will allow processing of multiple RCPWAVE output data files into a
single nearshore wave data base. In this example, the same input file was
processed twice, once with a sea-wave type specification and the second time
with a swell-wave type specification, Therefore, the output file 0UT3.NSW
should contain six unique offshore wave identification keys, but, the com-
pressed nearshore wave data should be identical for both the sea and swell
types . This is the result, as can be seen in Figure 109, which contains a
listing of the file 0UT3.NSW. Note that the offshore wave identification keys
in this example contain the wave type identifier (either 1 for sea-type wave
conditions, or 2 for swell-type wave conditions).

229
 FILE: OUT3.NSW SHORELINE ORIENTATION: 0.00
DATA AT WAVEBLOCKS 4 THRU 33 FROM 36 ALONGSHORE RCPWAVE CELLS
CONTAINS 6 UNIQUE NEARSHORE WAVE EVENTS. WAVE HEIGHTS IN METERS*1OO
***********************************************************************
1151
-103084-103091-102096-101097 -100095- 100089-101094-100098 -100104 -99o99
-98100 -97106 -97108 -95105 -94101 -93101 -93095 -94094 -95104 -95112
-94119 -93120 -92117 -91118 -91121 -90118 -90114 -90117 -90123 -90124
1162
-ll3267-ll2284-lO9286-lO828O-lO827l-lO8265-lO728l-lO4288 -99294 -95275
-95272 -95280 -92277 -91264 -90249 -91248 -94242 -98251 -98280 -94303
-88305 -85296 -84286 -84282 -84288 -84279 -86274 -87283 -88304 -87304
1143
78275 78258 77244 77227 76226 76248 77252 80258 82255 83264
85271 88256 90262 93267 98277 101268 103274 105278 104263 101264
101259 102262 107279 113276 115266 115263 116277 119278 120281 123285
2151
-lO3O84-lO3O9l-lO2O96-lOlO97-lOOO95-lOOO89-lOlO94-lOOO98-lOOlO4 -99099
-98100 -97106 -97108 -95105 -94101 -93101 -93095 -94094 -95104 -95112
-94119 -93120 -92117 -91118 -91121 -90118 -90114 -90117 -90123 -90124
2162
-ll3267-ll2284-lO9286-lO828O-lO827l-lO8265-lO728l-lO4288 -99294 -95275
-95272 -95280 -92277 -91264 -90249 -91248 -94242 -98251 -98280 -94303
-88305 -85296 -84286 -84282 -84288 -84279 -86274 -87283 -88304 -87304
2143
78275 78258 77244 77227 76226 76248 77252 80258 82255 83264
85271 88256 90262 93267 98277 101268 103274 105278 104263 101264
101259 102262 107279 113276 115266 115263 116277 119278 120281 123285

Figure 109. WTNSWAV Example 3: Output file 0UT3.NSW

457. ExamDle 4. The program WTNSWAV contains a feature that will allow
the user to incorporate an error in the nearshore wave data base. The purpose
of this example is to demonstrate how this “hook” may be set, so that the user
can be forewarned. Input for this example is again the file TEST1.NSR listed

I,,
in Figure 93, and the output file will be an appended version of the output
file generated in the previous example application. TO preserve the file
OUT3.NSW, the command: COPY 0UT3.NSW OUT4.NSV is issued at the PC prompt
while in the default directory. Responses to the program prompts are as
follows:
a.
- Input file name: TESTI.NSR

b
—. Output file name: OUT4
c.
- Disposition of existing output fi~e: 1 (append the file)
d.
- Baseline orientation: 0.0
e.
- Number of alongshore RCPWAVE cells: 36
f.
— RCPWAVE coordinate corresponding to first wave block: 4

230
 RCPWAVE coordinate corresponding CO last wave block: 33
Are SEA and SWELL wave types transformed differently: 1 (YES)
Wave height units: 2 (METERS)
Number of wave conditions in input file: 3
Type of wave events: 1 (SEA)
Number of height bands: 1
Process another input file: O (NO)

458. The output file 0UT4.NSW is listed in Figure 110. Note in Fig-
ure 110 that the last three nearshore wave data sets are identical (both in
the offshore wave identification key and in the nearshore wave data) to the
first three nearshore wave data sets. At this point, the only error is wasted
file space and memory; however, if there were differences in the nearshore
wave data, but the offshore wave identification keys were the same, then
GENESIS would use the nearshore wave data associated with the first offshore
identification key encountered and ignore the other. The program WTNSWAV
performs error checking on the input specifications but does not check for
duplicate offshore wave identification keys in the nearshore wave data base.
This type of error in the nearshore wave data base could be manifested if the
user conducted nearshore wave transformation simulations for sea- and swell-
type wave conditions differently, but, for whatever reason, forgot to specify
(to WTNSWAV) that sea and swell waves were transformed differently. This
could result in unexplainable poor performance of the shoreline change model
because the input nearshore wave data for sea and swell wave types were
indiscernible.
459. Example 5. This example will demonstrate how the height band
classification option is invoked and how individual height bands are speci-
fied. The input for this example is contained in the file named TEST2.NSR and
is listed in Figure 111. Note in Figure 111 that there are solutions for six
offshore wave conditions and that each of the offshore wave conditions corres-
ponds to a different input wave height. Responses to the program prompts are
as follows:
a.
— Input file name: TEST2.NSR
b
—. Output file name: OUT5
c.
— Baseline orientation: 0.0
d.
— Number of alongshore RCPWAVE cells: 36
e.
- RCPWAVE coordinate corresponding to first wave block: 4

231
 FILE: 0UT4.NSW SHORELINE ORIE!iTATION: 0.00
DATA AT WAVEBLOCKS 4 THRU 33 FROM 36 ALONGSHORE RCPI+’A\’ECELLS
CONTAINS 9 UNIQUE NEARSHORE WAVE EVENTS. WAVE HEIGHTS lN METERS*1OO
***********************************************************************
1151
-103084- 103091-102096-101097- 100095- 100089 -101094-;00098 -lI)OIOd -99099
-98100 -97106 -97108 -95105 -94101 -93101 -93095 -94094 -gjlt)i -95112
-94119 -93120 -92117 -9111/3 -91121 -90118 -90114 -90117 -90123 -90124
1162
-llsz6l-ll2284-lO9286-lO828O-lO827l-lO8265-l0728l-lO4288 -99294 -952j’5
-95272 -95280 -92277 -91264 -90249 -91248 -94242 -98251 -98280 -94303
-88305 -85296 -84286 -84282 -84288 -84279 -86274 -87283 -88304 -87304
1143
78275 78258 77244 77227 76226 76248 77252 80258 82255 83264
85271 88256 90262 93267 98277 101268 103274 105278 104263 101264
101259 102262 107279 113276 115266 115263 116277 119278 120281 123285
2151
-lO3O84-lO3O9l-lO2O96-lOlO97-lOOO95-lOOO89-lOlO94-lOOO98-lOOlO4 -99099
-98100 -97106 -97108 -95105 -94101 -93101 -93095 -94094 -95104 -95112
-94119 -93120 -92117 -91118 -91121 -90118 -90114 -90117 -90123 -90124
2162
-ll3267-ll2284-lO9286-lO828O-lO827l-lO8265-lO728l-lO4288 -99294 -95275
-95272 -95280 -92277 -91264 -90249 -91248 -94242 -98251 -98280 -94303
-88305 -85296 -84286 -84282 -84288 -84279 -86274 -87283 -88304 -87304
2143
78275 78258 77244 77227 76226 76248 77252 80258 82255 83264
85271 88256 90262 93267 98277 101268 103274 105278 104263 101264
101259 102262 107279 113276 115266 115263 116277 119278 120281 123285
1151
-lO3O84-lO3O9l-lO2O96-lOlO97-lOOO95-lOOO89-lOlO94-lOOO98-lOOlO4 -99099
-98100 -97106 -97108 -95105 -94101 -93101 -93095 -94094 -95104 -95112
-94119 -93120 -92117 -91118 -91121 -90118 -90114 -90117 -90123 -90124
1162
-ll3267-ll2284-lO9286-lO828O-lO827l-lO8265-lO728l-lO4288 -99294 -95275
-95272 -95280 -92277 -91264 -90249 -91248 -94242 -98251 -98280 -94303
-88305 -85296 -84286 -84282 -84288 -84279 -86274 -87283 -88304 -87304
1143
78275 78258 77244 77227 76226 76248 77252 80258 82255 83264
85271 88256 90262 93267 98277 101268 103274 105278 104263 101264
101259 102262 107279 113276 115266 115263 116277 119278 120281 123285

Figure 110. WTNSWAV Example 4: Output file OUT4.NSW

f.
- RCPWAVE coordinate corresponding to last wave block: 33

~. Are SEA and SWELL wave types transformed differently: O (NO)

h
—. Wave height units: 2 (METERS)
~. Number of wave conditions in input file: 6

i. Number of height bands: 6

k.
— Wave height band width: 0.5
1.
— Minimum wave height 0.25

232
WAVE CONDITIONNUMBER 1, HEIGHT= 0.500 PEHIOD= 4.000 ANGLE= -::.000
1 15 0.4788 -9.9151 20.00 13 14 0.4805 -10.6540 20,50 25 13 0.4762 ‘1 O. 9617 21.00
2 15 0.4788 -9.9151 20.00 14 15 0.4821 -10.2354 21.00 26 13 0.4762 -10.5870 20.00
3 15 0.4806 -9.9093 21.00 15 15 0.4766 -9.6059 20.00 27 13 0.4747 -10.2937 20.00
4 15 0.4802 -10.0069 21.00 16 14 0.4705 -8.8193 20.00 2a 14 0.4705 -9.9900 20.00
5 15 0.4798 -10.0328 21.00 17 14 0.4659 -9.1049 21.00 25714 0.4679 -10.6956 20.00
6 15 0.4756 -9.5536 20.00 18 14 0,/.650 -9.7685 21.00 22 15 0.4538 -11.1212 20.00
7 14 0.4730 -9,3840 20.50 19 13 0.4663 -9.7969 21.00 31 16 0.4741 -11.1525 21.00
8 14 0.4714 -9.9785 20.50 20 13 0.4693 -10.3665 21.00 32 17 0.4762 ‘1 O.8784 21.00
9 14 0.4730 -10.3863 20.50 21 13 0.4723 -10.7118 21.00 33 17 0.4754 ‘1 O.24O7 21.00
10 14 0.4733 -10.1493 20.00 22 13 0.4730 -10.7346 20.00 34 16 0.4719 -9.8776 20.00
11 14 0.4754 -10.2264 21.00 23 14 0.4738 -10.2323 21.00 35 16 0.4723 -10.1729 20.50
12 14 0.4768 -10.6078 20.50 24 13 0.4732 -10.3539 21.00 36 16 0.4723 -10.1729 20.50
WAVE CONDITIONNUMBER 2: HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 6.000 ANGLE= -33.000
1 15 1.0589 -28.3854 20.00 13 14 1.0212 -29.3136 20,50 25 13 0.9858 -29.3351 21.00
2 15 1.0589 -28.3854 20.00 14 15 1.0687 -29.1365 21.00 26 13 1.0205 -28.8598 20.00
3 15 1.0583 -28.6561 21.00 15 15 1.0946 -26.9335 20.00 27 13 1.0451 -28.2008 20.00
4 15 1.0640 -28.7442 21.00 16 14 1.0786 ‘24.1242 20.00 28 14 1.0415 ‘26.7156 20.00
5 15 1.0737 -28.6543 21.00 17 14 1.0252 -23.3829 21.00 29 14 1.0258 ‘27.4516 20.00
6 15 1.0633 -26.7102 20.00 18 14 0.9827 -24.1647 21.00 30 15 1.0173 ‘28.4085 20.00
7 14 1.0388 -25.8057 20.50 19 13 0.9603 -24.3040 21.00 31 16 1.0104 -29.1373 21.00
8 14 1.0146 -26.4565 20.50 20 13 0.9546 -25.9095 21.00 32 17 1.0233 -29.0774 21.00
9 14 1.0078 ‘27.4099 20.50 21 13 0.9604 -27.2735 21.00 33 17 1.0173 ‘27.5324 21.00
10 14 1.0025 -26.9072 20.00 22 13 0.9777 -27.7016 20.00 34 16 1.0109 -26.2126 20.00
11 14 0.9883 -27.3231 21.00 23 14 0.9642 -26.9843 21.00 35 16 1.0067 ‘26.7954 20.50
12 14 0.9923 -28.3713 20.50 24 13 0.9582 -27.3233 21.00 36 16 1.0067 ‘26.7954 20.50
WAVE CONDITIONNUMHER 3: HEIGHT= 1,500 PERIOD= 8.000 ANGLE= 33.000
1 15 1.6618 29.9373 20.00 13 14 1.5364 26.5688 20.50 25 13 1.5635 25.6760 21.00
2 15 1.6618 29.9373 20.00 14 15 1.5536 27.0383 21.00 26 13 1.5673 25.8965 20.00
3 15 1.6321 30.5407 21.00 15 15 1.6289 26.9529 20.00 27 13 1.5340 25.3476 20.00
4 15 1.6029 29.6792 21.00 16 14 1.6859 28.4589 20.00 28 14 1.5336 24.9185 20.00
5 15 1.5933 29.2143 21.00 17 14 1.6724 27.9991 21.00 29 14 1.5387 22.6953 20.00
6 15 1.6008 28.8381 20.00 18 14 1.6787 27.3622 21.00 30 15 1.5793 22.7882 20.00
7 14 1.5961 28.6768 20.50 19 13 1.6593 28.2045 21.00 31 16 1.5932 24.4630 21.00
8 14 1.6039 27.2027 20.50 20 13 1.6140 27.1090 21.00 32 17 1.6098 25.8171 21.00
9 14 1.6284 27.4584 20.50 21 13 1.5926 26.5811 21.00 33 17 1.6189 27.5182 21.00
10 14 1.6230 28.4044 20.00 22 13 1.5860 25.9317 20.00 34 16 1.6065 26.9490 20.00
11 14 1.5613 28.6618 21.00 23 14 1.5683 27.3643 21.00 35 16 1.5919 26.3745 20.50
12 14 1.5264 26.8896 20.50 24 13 1.5608 26.5888 21.00 36 16 1.5919 26.3745 20.50
WAVE CONDITIONNUM8ER 4: HEIGHT= 2.000 PERIOD= 4.000 ANGLE= -11.000
1 15 1.9311 -9.9151 20.00 13 14 1.9361 -10.6540 20.50 25 13 1.9163 -10.9617 21.00
2 15 1.9311 -9.9151 20.00 14 15 1.9420 -10.2354 21.00 26 13 1.9167 -10.5870 20.00
3 15 1.9382 -9.9093 21.00 15 15 1.9184 -9.6059 20.00 27 13 1.9102 -10.2937 20.00
4 15 1.9362 -10.0069 21.00 16 14 1.8922 -8.8193 20.00 28 14 1.8921 -9.9900 20.00
5 15 1.9342 -10.0328 21.00 17 14 1.8713 -9.1049 21.00 29 14 1.8807 -10.6956 20.00
6 15 1.9163 -9.5536 20.00 18 14 1.8666 -9.7685 21.00 30 15 1.8878 -11.1212 20.00
7 14 1.9056 =9.3840 20.50 19 13 1.8717 -9.7969 21.00 31 16 1.9049 -11.1525 21.00
8 14 1.8984 -9.9785 20.50 20 13 1.8843 -10.3665 21.00 32 17 1.9133 ‘10.8784 21.00
9 14 1.9047 -10.3863 20.50 21 13 1.8974 -10.7118 21.00 33 17 1.9104 -10.2407 21.00
10 14 1.9056 -10.1493 20.00 22 13 1.9014 -10.7346 20.00 34 16 1.8964 -9.8776 20.00
11 14 1.9144 -10.2264 21.00 23 14 1.9051 -10.2323 21.00 35 16 1.8980 -10.1729 20.50
12 14 1.9207 -10.6078 20.50 24 13 1.9035 -10.3539 21.00 36 16 1.8980 ‘1O.1729 20.50
WAVE CONDITIONNUM8ER 5: HEIGHT= 2.500 PERIOD= 6.000 ANGLE= -33.000
1 15 2.6518 -28.3854 20.00 13 14 2.5567 -29.3136 20.50 25 13 2.4676 -29.3351 21.00
2 15 2.6518 -28.3854 20.00 14 15 2.6755 -29.1365 21.00 26 13 2.5546 -28.8598 20.00
3 15 2.6503 -28.6561 21.00 15 15 2.7409 -26.9335 20.00 27 13 2.6164 ‘28.2008 20.00
4 15 2.6647 -28.7442 21.00 16 14 2.7015 ‘24.1242 20.00 28 14 2.6076 -26.7156 20.00
5 15 2.6891 -28.6543 21.00 17 14 2.5679 -23.3829 21.00 29 14 2.5687 ‘27.4516 20.00
6 15 2.6632 -26.7102 20.00 18 14 2.4614 -24.1647 21.00 30 15 2.5473 -28.4085 20.00
7 14 2.6019 -25.8057 20.50 19 13 2.4051 -24.3040 21.00 31 16 2.5296 -29.1373 21.00
8 14 2.5413 -26.4565 20.50 20 13 2.3904 -25.9095 21.00 32 17 2.5617 -29.0774 21.00
9 14 2.5239 ‘27.4099 20.50 21 13 2.4046 -27.2735 21.00 33 17 2.5467 -27.5324 21.00
10 14 2.5105 -26.9072 20.00 22 13 2.4477 -27.7016 20.00 34 16 2.5309 -26.2126 20.00
11 14 2.4748 -27.3231 ‘31.00 23 14 2.4136 -26.9843 21.00 35 16 2.5202 -26.7954 20.50
12 14 2.4845 -28.3713 20.50 24 13 2.3987 -27.3233 21.00 36 16 2.5202 -26.7954 20.50

Figure 111. ;ontinl ued)

Example PC_RCPWV output file TEsT2.NSR ((

233
 —.

WAVE CONDITIONNUMBER 6: HEIGHT= 3.000 PERIOD= 8.000 ANGLE= 33,000

1 15 3.3290 29,9373 20.00 13 14 3.0785 26.5688 20.50 25 13 3.1320 25.676o 21.00
2 15 3.3290 29.9373 20.00 14 15 3.1131 27.0383 21.00 26 13 3.1396 25.8965 20.00
3 15 3.2694 30.5407 21.00 15 15 3.2642 26.9529 20.00 27 13 3.0730 25.3476 20.00
4 15 3.2110 29.6792 21.00 16 14 3.3784 28.4589 20.00 28 14 3.0721 24.9185 20.00
5 15 3.1918 29,2143 21.00 17 14 3.3511 27.9991 21.00 29 lG 3.0825 22.6953 20.00
6 15 3.2067 28.8382 20.00 18 14 i.3634 27.3622 21,00 30 15 3.1636 22.7882 20 00
7 14 3.1974 28.6768 20.50 19 13 3,3243 29.2045 21.00 31 :5 3,1913 24.4520 21 00
8 14 3.2129 27,2027 20.50 20 13 3.2334 27.1090 21.00 32 11 3,2242 25.8171 21.00
9 14 3.2616 27.4584 20.50 21 13 3.1904 26,5811 21.00 33 17 3.2424 27.5182 21.00
10 14 3.2507 28.4044 20.00 22 13 3.1771 25.9317 20.00 34 16 3.2178 26.9490 20.00
11 14 3.1272 28.6618 21.00 23 14 3.1415 27.3643 21.00 35 16 3.1885 26.3746 20.50
12 14 3.0578 26.8896 20.50 24 13 3.1267 26.5888 21.00 36 16 3.1885 26.3746 20.50

Figure 111. (Concluded)

m.
— Process another input file: O (NO)

460. In line 1 of the user responses, the total number of height bands
was specified as six. The program then acknowledged that wave height bands
were required as a classification category and prompted for additional height
band specifications. In line ~ the width (or height range) of the height
bands was specified, and in line ~ the minimum wave height was specified.
With these inputs WTNSWAV generated six height band categories, each 0.5 m in
width and beginning at 0.25 m. For example, the first height band will be
used to identify nearshore wave conditions for offshore wave heights between
0.25 and 0.75 m, and the third height band will be used to identify nearshore
wave conditions for offshore wave heights between 1.25 and 1.75 m.
461. Figure 112 contains a listing of the output file OUT5.NSW. Note,
that the band height indicator in the offshore wave identification key for
each of the nearshore wave data sets corresponds to the input RCPWAVE offshore
wave height. For example, for the second wave condition, the offshore wave
height is 1.00 m, and the height band indicator in the second offshore wave
identification key is 2, which denotes the second height band for offshore
wave heights between 0.75 and 1.25 m. Similarly, for the fourth wave condi-
tion, the offshore wave height is 2.00 m, and the height band indicator is 4,
which corresponds to the fourth height band for offshore wave heights between
1.75 and 2.25 m.
Summary
462. The program WTNSWAV enables the user to create a keyed nearshore
wave data base for input to GENESIS. The program also enables creation of an
additional offshore wave classification category if necessary, specifically,
the wave height band category. WTNSWAV requires that all wave conditions in a
given nearshore wave transformation simulation be of the same wave type (sea

234
IIP.
FILE: 0UT5.NSW SHORELINE ORIENTATION: 0.00
DATA AT WAVEBLOCKS 4 THRU 33 FROM 36 ALONGSHORE RCPWAVE CELLS
CONTAINS 6 UNIQUE NEARSHORE WAVE EVENTS. WAVE HEIGHTS IN METERS*1OO
***********************************************************************
151
-48102 -48109 -47112 -47111 -47107 -47100 -47103 -48106 -48110 -47104
-47102 -47107 -47107 -47104 -47098 -47098 -47091 -47088 -48096 -48102
-48107 -48106 -48102 -47101 -47104 -47100 -47094 -48096 -48100 -48100
262
-lO2275-lO229l-lOl29l-lO2284-lO3275-lO4267-lO5282-lO2289 -99293 -96273
-96270 -98277 -96273 -95259 -96243 -98242-103234-108241-109269-107291
-102293 -99284 -99273-lOO269-lOl274-lOl265-lO4258-lO6267-lO7287-lO6287
343
162275 161258 159245 158228 154227 153249 153253 157259 156257 156266
157274 159259 159266 161271 166282 168274 167280 169285 163270 155270
154266 153269 156287 162284 163275 160272 160287 160288 159292 160297
451
-l9llO2-l9llO9-l9Oll2-l89lll-l88lO7-l89lOO-l9llO3-l92lO6-l92llO-l9OlO4
-l9llO2-l9OlO7-l9OlO7-l88lO4-l87O98-l87O98-l87O9l-l89O88-l92O96-l94lO2
-l94lO7-l92lO6-l9llO2-l9llOl-l9OlO4-l9OlOO-l9lO94-l92O96-l93lOO-l94lOO
562
-255275-25629l-25329l-255284-257275-26l267-262282-255289-247293-24O273
-24l27O-245277-24O273-239259-24l243-246242-257234-27O24l-274269-26829l
-256293-248284-247273-25l269-252274-254265-26O258-266267-269287-266287
643
324275 322258 319245 316228 308227 307249 307253 314259 313257 313266
314274 318259 319266 323271 332282 336274 335280 338285 326270 311270
308266 306269 313287 325284 326275 321272 320287 321288 319292 321297

Figure 112. WTNSWAV Example 5: Output file 0UT5.NSW

wave conditions only, or swell wave conditions only). WTNSWAV performs “error
checking on user-input specifications if an existing output file is going to
be appended and if more than one input file is processed in a single session.
The program will permit duplicate offshore wave identification keys to exist
in a single nearshore wave data file. Therefore, the user must exercise
caution and be mindful of the inputs specified in use of the program WTNSWAV.

WTDEPTH

463. The program WTDEPTH reads water depth information (along the near-
shore reference line) from a special RCPWAVE output file (specified on the
SAVESPEC input record, shown in Table 12) and writes a DEPTH.ext file for
input to GENESIS. The data in the DEPTH.ext file consists of water depths
corresponding to each of the nearshore wave data points contained in the
NSWAV.ext file.

235
Calculation procedure
464. The computational flow of the program WTDEPTH is straightforward
and simple. First the program prompts for the input and output file names.
Then, for the total number of alongshore RCPWA~JE cells, and then for the
specific I?CPWAVE coordinates corresponding to ths first and last wave blocks

required by GENESIS (RCPLJAVE alongshore cells defining the GENESIS model

reach) . With these input data specified the program reads the appropriate

depth information and writes the Output file in the format required for input

to GENESIS.

Example a~plication

465. Only, one example application for the program WTDEPTH is given

because the program was designed to read a specific input file (that specified

on the SAVESPEC record in the PC_RCPWV data set) and does not have options

that cause logical branches within the program. The file TEST1.NSR listed in

Figure 93 will provide the input for this example.

466. Execution of the program is initiated by issuing the command

WTDEPTH at the PC prompt. The program responds with a prompt for entry of the
input file name and extension, and the path, if the input file does not reside
in the default directory. For this example, the name TEST1.NSR is entered.
This file must exist (it represents the input), or the program will terminate.
467. The next prompt issued by the program requests the output file
name without the extension. The program WTDEPTH assigns the extension .DEP
(denoting ~ths) to all output files. This file must ~ exist, or the
program will terminate with an error. This feature will preclude the uninten-
tional overwriting of an existing .DEP file. For this example, the name
TSTIOUT is entered.
468. Next, the program prompts for the number of alongshore RCPWAVE
cells. From the RCPWAVE input data set (GRIDSPEC record, YCELLS variable),
shown in Figure 92 and defined in Tables 3 through 12, it is seen that for
this example the number of RCPWAVE cells is 36. So, the value 36 is entered.
Because the RCPWAVE grid typically extends beyond the GENESIS grid in the
alongshore direction, GENESIS requires only a subset of the data along Che
nearshore reference line. Consequently, WTDEPTH requires specification of the
RCPWAVE coordinates corresponding to the GENESIS model reach, as does the
program WTNSWAV. Hence, the next prompt requests specification of the RCPWAVE
coordinate corresponding to the first wave block. For this example, the value

236
4 is entered. The next prompt requests entry of the RCPK.$.”.’E
coordinate

corresponding to the last wave block, and, for this example, the value 33 is
entered.
469. At this point, the required ir,putsha-:ebeen spscified, and the
program proceeds to read the depth data from the input file, and then writeS

these data to the output file in a format suitable for input to GENESIs.

Figure 113 provides a listing Of the file TSTIOUT.DEp generated in this

example. Notice that the file TsTIOUT.DEp contains 30 water depths that

correspond to the water depths at RCpWAVE alongshore coordinates 4 through 33

(compare data in Figure 93, fifth column, to Figure 113).

NSTRAN

470. The program NSTRAN computes potential longshore sand transport

rates using processed output from RCPWAVE (nearshore wave height, period, and
angle together with the nearshore water depth) and an offshore time series.
As input the program requires:
a An offshore wave time series generated by the program WTWAVES
‘“ (filename.WAV).

b A nearshore wave data base generated by the program WTNSWAV

‘“ (filename.NSW).
c A nearshore depth file generated by the program WTDEPTH
,, ‘“ (filename.DEP).

These three input files, together with user-specified input of the offshore
wave time series time-step, number of events per time-step, and, if necessary,
specification of required wave height bands provide the necessary input for
the computations to proceed. The program NSTRAN also checks for completeness
of the nearshore wave data base. Because the offshore and nearshore wave data
are related (through angle-period band categorization) in NSTRAN in the same

**************************************************************************-k*-k*
NEARSHORE DEPTH FILE CREATED FROM FILE: TEST1.NSR
DATA AT WAVEBLOCKS 4 THRU 33 FROM 36 ALONGSHORE RCPWAVE CELLS
******************************************************************************
21.00 21.00 21.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 21.00 21.00
21.00 20.00 21.00 21.00 21.00 21.00 21.00 20.00 20.00 21.00
20.50 20.50 21.00 20.00 20.50 20.50 20.50 20.00 21.00 21.00

Figure 113. WTDEPTH output file TSTIOUT.DEP

237
way as they are in GENESIS, it is a recommended procedure to test the near.

shore wave data base with ‘STW against all ‘ffshore ‘ime ‘eries that will be
used in GENESIS simulations.
Calculation procedure
471. The potential longshore sand transpor~ rate computations in NS”rR_L.::
are identical to the computations used in the program SEDTRAN (Presented in
part III) except that the nearshore wave height, angle, and period, are used
together with the nearshore reference water depth to determine the breaking
wave conditions. However, NSTRAN requires a specific offshore wave event to
be associated with a set of nearshore wave conditions that represent the
transformation of offshore waves from a specific angle-period band (and height
band if required) category. This relationship is evaluated by computing an
offshore wave identification key based on the offshore wave angle and period
(and height if required).
472. After the offshore wave identification key has been evaluated, the
nearshore wave data base is searched for the set of nearshore wave conditions
corresponding to the key. If the offshore wave identification key is not
found in the nearshore wave data base, the key and corresponding offshore wave
height, angle, and period are reported to the user. If the offshore wave
identification key is found, the nearshore wave height-angle numbers for each
of the wave blocks are decomposed into a nearshore height transformation
coefficient (or actual wave height if height bands are used) and angle. If
height bands are not used, the nearshore wave height is obtained by taking the
product of the height transformation coefficient and the offshore wave height.
473. Once the nearshore wave height and angle have been computed, these
data together with the offshore wave period and nearshore reference water
depth are used to evaluate breaking wave conditions. The breaking wave
conditions are in turn used to estimate potential longshore sand transport
rates. This procedure is used to estimate potential transport rates at each
of the nearshore wave blocks.
474. The above-described procedure completes the computations for a
single offshore wave event. At this point, the magnitude and direction of the
computed potential sand transport rate are saved. Each wave event in the
offshore time series is processed in a similar manner, and, when the end of
the time series is reached, cumulative potential longshore sand transport
rates for each of the nearshore wave blocks are written to the user-specified

238
 output file. The Output file consists Of two tables; the first table lists
volume at each of the wave blocks, and
the estimated potential sand transport

the second table lists the estimated potential sand transport rate at each Of

the wave blocks. NSTRAN also produces an Output file that contains the

estimated potential longshore sand transport rates (Only tb.e numbers) for each

of the nearshore wave blocks. This file is generated for plotting purposes

and is in a format that is compatible with the HG~pH graphics program DPLOT.

The following section provides an example application Of the program NSTRAN

and describes the steps necessary to compile the required input files.

Exam~le amlication

475. In this example application, a time series retrieved from the WIS

data base using the SEAS system will represent the initial wave data. This

time series (WVSEAS.DAT listed in Part III, Figure 12) is first transformed

from deepwater conditions to the water depth corresponding to the offshore

boundary of the RCPWAVE bathymetry grid using the program WAVETRAN (step 1 in

the offshore wave analysis procedure outlined in Part V).

476. The WAVETRAN transformation was performed for a shoreline orienta-

tion of 54 deg, and no wave energy sheltering was specified. The output time

series (named NSTST.PH3 and listed in Figure 114) from WAVETRAN is then

processed through the program RCRIT, which flags the calm events and events

that are determined to produce an alongshore current below the threshold

current necessary to produce significant longshore sand transport (step 3 in

the offshore wave analysis procedure). Note that step 2 in the offshore wave
analysis procedure (use of SEDTRAN) is not necessary because potential long-
shore sand transport rates are going to be evaluated based on nearsl-iorewave
conditions. However, for comparison purposes, the computations were per-
formed, and the results are listed in Figure 115. The output time series from
RCRIT (named NSTST.CTS and listed in Figure 116) was also processed through
SEDTRAN to investigate the effect RCRIT had on potential sand transport rate
estimated using the offshore time series. Figure 117 contains a listing of
the estimates. Note that the estimated potential longshore sand transport
rates listed in Figures 115 and 117 are identical. However, in the first
i SEDTRAN run a total of 46 sea events was computed, whereas in the second
SEDTRAN run a total of 38 sea events was computed. Therefore, for this
example, eight sea events and no swell events were dete~ined to be below the
i threshold for significant longshore sand transport. For a long time series

239
 NSTST 48
if 62030500 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030503 16.9 3.0 171.6 0.0 0.0 0.0
*1.
62030506 41.6 3.0 155.5 0.0 0.0 0.0
$n.
62030509 45.6 4.0 164.5 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030512 40.5 4.0 170.8 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030515 59.7 4.0 165.2 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030518 75.5 4.0 157.1 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030521 97.7 5.0 148.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030600 131.2 6.0 138.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030603 160.6 7.0 136.6 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030606 206.4 8.0 130.9 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030609 202.4 9.0 127.1 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030612 198.8 8.0 130.2 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030615 219.2 8.0 129.5 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030618 217.4 9.0 126.4 112.7 10.0 129.8
62030621 220.8 9.0 135.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62030700 84.8 7.0 150.1 269.6 12.0 119.5
62030703 75.3 7.0 150.3 277.3 13.0 114.9
62030706 71.2 7.0 150.3 276.5 13.0 114.2
62030709 91.1 7.0 149.9 272.7 13.0 113.9
62030712 100.9 7.0 149.9 274.3 13.0 114.2
62030715 99.5 7.0 149.9 270.3 13.0 114.2
62030718 97.2 7.0 149.9 255.2 13.0 114.4
62030721 94.4 7.0 149.9 236.1 13.0 114.7
62030800 93.0 7.0 149.9 227.2 13.0 114.9
62030803 72.0 7.0 150.6 229.9 13.0 115.1
62030806 67.7 7.0 150.3 222.3 13.0 115.1
62030809 62.0 7.0 150.6 199.8 13.0 115.5
62030812 60.5 7.0 150.6 179.1 13.0 115.5
62030815 60.8 7.0 150.6 155.1 13.0 115.9
62030818 58.3 6.0 156.7 145.2 13.0 116.3
62030821 64.8 6.0 155.3 137.5 12.0 120.5
62030900 67.4 6.0 154.0 125.9 12.0 120.5
62030903 95.1 7.0 145.5 105.8 11.0 124.0
62030906 78.1 5.0 159.5 103.2 11.0 124.3
62030909 95.4 5.0 150.0 95.9 10.0 129.1
62030912 97.8 4.0 141.1 86.6 10.0 128.4
62030915 94.0 5.0 140.7 77.9 10.0 127.7
62030918 102.8 5.0 144.2 70.7 10.0 126.9
62030921 86.3 4.0 156.6 68.1 9.0 128.5
62031000 58.6 4.0 161.3 68.3 8.0 131.2
62031003 100.3 4.0 165.6 0.0 0.0 0.0
62031006 68.7 5.0 162,0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62031009 62.1 4.0 171.8 0.0 0.0 0.0
62031012 38.9 4.0 174.3 0.0 0.0 0.0
62031015 20.8 4.0 177.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62031018 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
62031021 13.0 5.0 169.7 0.0 0.0 0.0

Figure 114. WAVETRAN output file NSTST,PH3

240
 ESTIMATED POTENTIAL LONGSHORE SAND TRANSPORT RATES
INPUT TIME SERIES: NSTST.PH3

TABLE 1

WAVE SAND TRANSPORT VOLUMES (M**3)

TYPE LEFT DIRECTED RIGHT DIRECTED NET GROSS
---------- ---------- ----- ----- ----- ----- ------------------------------ -
I
sea 0.00 0.41E+05 0.41E+05 0.41E+05

I swell
combined

----- ----- ----- -----

0.00
0.00

----- ---.- -----

0.94E+05
0.14E+06

----- ----- -----

0.94E+05
0.14E+06

----- -----
0.94E+05
0.14E+06

----- ----- -

TABLE 2

WAVE SAND TRANSPORT RATES (M**3/YEAR)

TYPE LEFT DIRECTED RIGHT DIRECTED NET GROSS
---------- ---------- ----- ----- ----- ----- ------------------------------ -

I sea 0.00 0.25E+07 0.25E+07 0.25E+07

, swell 0.00 0.57E+07 0.57E+07 0.57E+07
I combined 0.00 0.82E+07 0.82E+07 0.82E+07

----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- -

SUMMARY OF TIME SERIES DATA

----- ----- ----- ----- -------

The duration of the input time series is 0.02 years

NOTE: Because the time series is less than one year in duration, the
estimates reported above may reflect a seasonal bias.

These estimates are based on a shoreline orientation of O degrees

48 events were processed at a time step of 3 hours
2 sea events were calm
22 swell events were calm

Figure 115. SEDTRAN output using NSTST.PH3 as input

241
 NSTST 48
62030500 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030503 0.0 -99,9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030506 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030509 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030512 0.0 -99.9 0.0 !3.0 -99.9 0.0
62030515 59.7 4.0 165.2 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030518 75.5 4.0 157.1 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030521 97.7 5.0 148.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030600 131.2 6.0 138.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030603 160.6 7.0 136.6 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030606 206.4 8.0 130.9 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030609 202.4 9.0 127.1 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030612 198.8 8.0 130.2 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030615 219.2 8.0 129.5 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030618 217.4 9.0 126.4 112.7 10.0 129.8
62030621 220.8 9.0 135.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62030700 84.8 7.0 150.1 269.6 12.0 119.5
62030703 75.3 7.0 150.3 277.3 13.0 114.9
62030706 71.2 7.0 150.3 276.5 13.0 114.2
62030709 91.1 7.0 149.9 272.7 13.0 113.9
62030712 100.9 7.0 149.9 274.3 13.0 114.2
62030715 99.5 7.0 149.9 270.3 13.0 114.2
62030718 97.2 7.0 149.9 255.2 13.0 114.4
62030721 94.4 7.0 149.9 236,1 13.0 114.7
62030800 93.0 7.0 149.9 227.2 13.0 114.9
62030803 72.0 7.0 150.6 229.9 13.0 115.1
62030806 67.7 7.0 150.3 222.3 13.0 115.1
62030809 62.0 7.0 150.6 199.8 13.0 115.5
62030812 60.5 7.0 150.6 179.1 13.0 115.5
62030815 60.8 7.0 150.6 155.1 13.0 115.9
62030818 58.3 6.0 156.7 145.2 13.0 116.3
62030821 64.8 6.0 155.3 137.5 12.0 120.5
62030900 67.4 6.0 154.0 125.9 12.0 120.5
62030903 95.1 7.0 145.5 105.8 11.0 124.0
62030906 78.1 5.0 159.5 103.2 11.0 124,3
62030909 95.4 5.0 150.0 95.9 10.0 129.1
62030912 97.8 4.0 141.1 86.6 10.0 128.4
62030915 94.0 5.0 140.7 77.9 10.0 127.7
62030918 102.8 5.0 144.2 70.7 10.0 126.9
62030921 86.3 4.0 156.6 68.1 9.0 128.5
62031000 58.6 4.0 161.3 68.3 8.0 131.2
62031003 100.3 4.0 165.6 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62031006 68.7 5.0 162.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62031009 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62031012 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62031015 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62031018 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0
62031021 0.0 -99.9 0.0 0.0 -99.9 0.0

Figure 116. RCRIT output file NSTST.CTS

242
 ESTIMATED POTENTIAL LONGSHORE SAND TRANSPORT RATES
INPUT TIME SERIES: nstst.cts

TABLE 1

WAVE SAND TRANSPORT VOLUMES (M**3)

TYPE LEFT DIRECTED RIGHT DIRECTED NET GROSS
----------------------------- ---- ---- ---- -----------------------------

sea 0.00 0.41E+05 0.41E+05 0.41E+05

swell 0.00 0.94E+05 0.94E+05 0.94E+05
combined 0.00 0.14E+06 0.14E+06 0.14E+06

----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- -

TABLE 2

WAVE SAND TRANSPORT RATES (M**3/YEAR)

TYPE LEFT DIRECTED RIGHT DIRECTED NET GROSS
--------------------------------- ---- ---- ------------------------------

sea 0.00 0.25E+07 0.25E+07 0.25E+07

swell 0.00 0.57E+07 0.57E+07 0.57E+07
combined 0.00 0.82E+07 0.82E+07 0.82E+07

----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- -

SUMMARY OF TIME SERIES DATA

-------- ---- ---- -----------

The duration of the input time series is 0.02 years

NOTE: Because the time series is less than one year in duration, the
estimates reported above may reflect a seasonal bias.

These estimates are based on a shoreline orientation of O degrees

48 events were processed at a time step of 3 hours
10 sea events were calm
22 swell events were calm

Figure 117. SEDTRAN output using NSTST.CTS as input

243
(1 year or longer) a larger number of sea and swell wave events would be
eliminated from the offshore time series by the program RCRIT.
477. The next step is to generate an offshore wave data file suitable
for input to GENESIS and NSTRAN using the program WTWAVES (step 5 in the
offshore wave analysis procedure). If a subset of the time series NSTST.CTS

was going to be used, or if NSTST.CTS was to be combined with another time

series, the program WTWAVTS would be used to compile the final time series
(step 4 in the offshore wave analysis procedure). However, for this example,
only the time series NSTST.CTS is being included. The output from WTWAVES
(named NSTST.WAV and listed in Figure 118) represents the offshore time series
that will be used as input to the program NSTRAN. At this point, the analysis
(and preparation) of the offshore wave time series has been completed.
478. The next step is to prepare the input files representing the
required data along the nearshore reference line. This process signifies the
beginning of the nearshore wave analysis procedure (the subject of this chap-
ter) . The first step is to determine what nearshore wave transformation
simulations are required using the program WHEREWAV. Therefore, the next step
is to run WHEREWAV using the time series NSTST.CTS as input.
479. Figure 119 lists the output from WHEREWAV, and it is seen that a
total of 12 nearshore wave transformation simulations are required in order co
represent the nearshore transformation of the offshore time series. Table 19
contains a listing of the RCPWAVE boundary input wave conditions. Note in
Table 19 that, for the swell wave conditions, the input wave angles are not
the average for the angle band, but rather the average for each of the
specific period bands within the angle band. The average angle for each of
the swell-wave period bands was evaluated from the time series NSTST.CTS.
480. Nearshore transformation simulations for the wave conditions shown
in Table 19 were performed using PC_RCPWV. A listing of the PC_RCPWV input
data sets for the sea and swell wave conditions, excluding the 2-D bathymetry
array (which is the same as shown in Figure 92), is provided in Figure 120.
481. The output files containing the nearshore wave data specified on
the SAVESPEC records are listed in Figures 121 and 122. These files must be
processed through the program WTNSWAV to obtain the required nearshore wave
data base, and then through the program WTDEPTH to obtain the nearshore
reference water depths. Figure 123 contains a listing of the nearshore wave
data base named NSTST.NSW, obtained after executing ~NSWAV using the files

244
FILE : NSTST.WAV
NUMBER OF EVENTS PER RECORD: 2 TIME STEP: 3
SYSTEM OF UNITS: FEET
*****************************************************************************.~..~..,.
a.-
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030500
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030500 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030503
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030503 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030506
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030506 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030509
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030509 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030512
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030512 EVENT 2
4.000 1.959 75.200 62030515
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030515 EVENT 2
4.000 2.477 67.100 62030518
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030518 EVENT 2
5.000 3.205 58.000 62030521
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030521 EVENT 2
6.000 4.304 48.000 62030600
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030600 EVENT 2
7.000 5.269 46.600 62030603
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030603 EVENT 2
8.000 6.772 40.900 62030606
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030606 EVENT 2
9.000 6.640 37.100 62030609
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030609 EVENT 2
8.000 6.522 40.200 62030612
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030612 EVENT 2
8.000 7.192 39.500 62030615
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030615 EVENT 2
9.000 7.133 36.400 62030618
10.000 3.698 39.800 62030618 EVENT 2
9.000 7.244 45.000 62030621
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62030621 EVENT 2
7.000 2.782 60.100 62030700
12.000 8.845 29.500 62030700 EVENT 2
7.000 2.470 60.300 62030703
13.000 9.098 24.900 62030703 EVENT 2
7.000 2.336 60.300 62030706
13.000 9.072 24.200 62030706 EVENT 2
7.000 2.989 59.900 62030709
13.000 8.947 23.900 62030709 EVENT 2
7.000 3.310 59.900 62030712
13.000 8.999 24.200 62030712 EVENT 2
7.000 3.264 59.900 62030715
13.000 8.868 24.200 62030715 EVENT 2
7.000 3.189 59.900 62030718
13.000 8.373 24.400 62030718 EVENT 2

Figure 118. WTWAVES output file NSTST.WAV (Continued)

245
 7.000 2.362 60.600 62030803
13.000 7.543 25.100 62030803 EVENT 2
7.000 2.221 60.300 62030806
13.000 7.293 25.100 62030806 EVENT 2
7.000 2.034 60.600 62030809
13.000 6.555 25.500 620308C2 EVE:;T2
7.000 1.985 60.600 620308;2
13.000 5.876 25.500 62030812 EVENT 2
7.000 1.995 60.600 62030815
13.000 5.089 25.900 62030815 EVENT 2
6.000 1.913 66.700 62030818
13.000 4.764 26.300 62030818 EVENT 2
6.000 2.126 65.300 62030821
12.000 4.511 30.500 62030821 EVENT 2
6.000 2.211 64.000 62030900
12.000 4.131 30.500 62030900 EVENT 2
7.000 3.120 55.500 62030903
11.000 3.471 34.000 62030903 EVENT 2
5.000 2.562 69.500 62030906
11.000 3.386 34.300 62030906 EVENT 2
5.000 3.130 60.000 62030909
10.000 3.146 39.100 62030909 EVENT 2
4.000 3.209 51.100 62030912
10.000 2.841 38.400 62030912 EVENT 2
5.000 3.084 50.700 62030915
10.000 2.556 37.700 62030915 EVENT 2
5.000 3.373 54.200 62030918
10.000 2.320 36.900 62030918 EVENT 2
4.000 2.831 66.600 62030921
9.000 2.234 38.500 62030921 EVENT 2
4.000 1.923 71.300 62031000
8.000 2.241 41.200 62031000 EVENT 2
4.000 3,291 75.600 62031003
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62031003 EVENT 2
5.000 2.254 72.000 62031006
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62031006 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62031009
-99.900 0,000 0.000 62031009 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62031012
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62031012 EVENT 2
-99.900 0,000 0.000 62031015
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62031015 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62031018
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62031018 EVENT 2
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62031021
-99.900 0.000 0.000 62031021 EVENT 2

Figure 118. (Concluded)

246
WAVE CLASSIFICATION& sTATISTICSFOR INPUT TI~ sERIEs: NSTST CTS
THE FOLLCMINGCLASSIFICATIONSARE BASED ON A SHORELINEORIENTATIONOF: 54.00

NUMBER OF RECC~lDSPRCCESSED................. 48
NUMBER OF CAMS EAE VENTS ................... 10
NUMBEROFCALU SWELL EVENTS................. 22
NUMBER OF OFFSHORETRAVELINGSEA EVENTS..... 0
NUMBER OF OFFS~ORETRAVELINGSWELL EVENTS. 0

DEFINITIONOF ANGLE BANDS DEFINITIC!:

0; PERIOD BANDS

ANGLE BAND FMGE WITH RESPECT RANGE WITH RESPECT PERIODBAND NO. RANGE OF WAVE PERIODS
NUMBER TO NORTH TO SHORE-NORMAL 1 0.0< T < 5.0
1 54.00 : 56.25 90.00 : 87.75 2 5.0: T < 7.0
2 56.25 : 78.75 87.75 : 65.25 3 7.0: T < 9.0
3 78.75 : 101.25 65.25 : 42.75 4 9.0: T <11.0
4 101.25 : 123.75 42.75 : 20.25 5 11.0~ T -=13.0
5 123.75 : 146.25 20.25 : -2.25 6 13.0: T <15.0
6 146.25 : 168.75 -2.25 : -24.75 7 15.05 T <17.0
7 168.75 : 191.25 -24.75 : -47.25 8 17.05 T <23.0
8 191.25 : 213.75 -47.25 : -69.75 9 23.0~ T
9 213.75 : 234.00 -69.75 : -90.00

CLASSIFICATIONOF SEA WAVE EVENTS BY ANGLE BAND CLASSIFICATION

OF SEA WAVS EVSNTS BY PERIOD

ANGLE BAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVEW.GE PERIOD PERIODBAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVERAGE ANGLE
NUMBER EVENTS ANGLE HEIGHT BANDS NUMBER EVENTS PERIOD HEIGHT BANDS
1 o 1 6 4.00 79.70 23
2 9 69.92 72.26 12 2 10 5.40 85.84 23
3 24 57.33 95.55 1234 3 19 7.16 105.82 34
4 5 38.82 208.84 34 4 3 9.00 213.53 34
5 0 5 0
6 0 6 0
7 0 7 0
8 0 8 0
9 0 9 0

CLASSIFICATIONOF SWELL WAVE EVENTS BY ANGLE BAND CLASSIFICATION

OF SWELLWAVE EVENTS BY PERIOD

ANGLE BAND NO. OF AVERAGE A-GE PERIOD PERIODBAND NO. OF AVERAGE AVERAGE ANGLE
NUMBER EVENTS ANGLE HEIGHT BANDS NUMBER EVSNTS PERIOD HEIGHT BANDS
1 o 1 o
2 0 2 0
3 0 3 1 8.00 68.30 4
4 26 29.97 174.74 3456 4 6 9.83 85.32 4
5 0 5 5 11.60 148.40 4
6 0 6 14 13.00 230.07 4
7 0 7 0
8 0 8 0
9 0

Figure 119. WHEREWAV output file NSTST.WV

247
 Table 19
Nearshore Wave Transformation Simulations for the Time Series NSTST.CTS

Wave Height* Wave ;.u.gle Kzve Period

Simulation No. m dsz sec

Sea Wave Conditions

1 1 69,9 4.0
2 1 69.9 5.4
3 1 57.3 4.0
4 1 57.3 5.4
5 1 57.3 7.2
6 1 57.3 9.0
7 1 38.8 7.2
8 1 38.8 9.0

Swell Wave Conditions

9 1 41.2 8.0
10 1 38.4 9.8
11 1 31.8 11.6
12 1 24.9 13.0

* All simulations will be performed for a unit wave height, and the RCPWAV
output height along the nearshore reference will be used as a hei~ht
transformation coe~ficient (multiplier) for transforming the offs~ore wave
height.

SEAS_S.NSR and SEAS_C.NSR as input. The nearshore wave data between RCPWAVE
longshore coordinates 9 and 28 encompass the area of interest for a total of
20 wave blocks as shown in Figure 123.
482. The final step in the preparation of the required input files for
the program NSTRA.N involves executing the program WTDEPTH using either the
file SEAS_S.NSR or SEAS_C.NSR as input. A listing of the file NSTST.DEP that
contains the 20 nearshore reference depths corresponding to the nearshore wave
data in the file NSTST.NSW is contained in Figure 124.
483. At this point, the three required input files (NSTST.WAV,
NSTST.NSW, and NSTST.DEP) have been prepared, and potential longshore sand
transport rates based on the nearshore wave conditions can be estimated using
the program NSTRAN. Execution of the program is initiated by issuing the
command NSTRAN at the PC prompt.
484. The program responds by prompting for the file name of the
offshore wave time series. This input file must have the extension .WAV;

248
FILES NSTST S
GENSPECS – Swell waves for NSTRAN example ENGLISH
GRIDSPEC RECT~TG ENGLISH 40 36 200.0 :00.0
WAVCOND 1.0 13.0 24.9 0.0 YES
WAVMOD 1.00 1.00 24.9 24.9
WAVCOND 1.0 9.8 38.4 0.0 YES
WAVMOD 1.00 1.00 38.4 38.4
WAVCOND 1.0 11.6 31.8 0.0 YES
WAVMOD 1.00 1.00 31.8 31.8
WAVCOND 1.0 8.0 41.2 0.0 YES
WAVMOD 1.00 1.00 41,2 41.2
SAVESPEC SEAS_S.NSR
15 15 15 15 15 15 14 14 14 14
14 14 14 15 15 14 14 14 13 13
13 13 14 13 13 13 13 14 14 15
16 17 17 16 16 16
PRWINDOW 1 40 1 36 DAHKB
BATHSPEC FEET 0.0 0.0 Yx (1OF7.1)

(a) Swell wave conditions

FILES NSTST_C
GENSPECS Sea waves for NSTMN example ENGLISH
GRIDSPEC RECTANG ENGLISH 40 36 200:0 400.0
WAVCOND 1.0 7.2 57.3 0.0 YES
WAVMOD 1.00 1.00 57.3 57.3
WAVCOND 1.0 5.4 57.3 0.0 YES
WAVMOD 1.00 1.00 57.3 57.3
WAVCOND 1.0 4.0 57.3 0.0 YES
WAVMOD 1.00 1.00 57.3 57.3
WAVCOND 1.0 9.0 57.3 0.0 YES
WAVMOD 1.00 1.00 57.3 57.3
WAVCOND 1.0 5.4 69.9 0.0 YES
WAVMOD 1.00 1.00 69.9 69.9
WAVCOND 1.0 4.0 69.9 0.0 YES
WAVMOD 1.00 1.00 69.9 69.9
WAVCOND 1.0 7.2 38.8 0.0 YES
WAVMOD 1.00 1.00 38.8 38.8
WAVCOND 1.0 9.0 38.8 0.0 YES
WAVMOD 1.00 1.00 38.8 38.8
SAVESPEC SEAS C.NSR
15 15 15 15 15 15–14 14 14 14
14 14 14 15 15 14 14 14 13 13
13 13 14 13 13 13 13 14 14 15
16 17 17 16 16 16
PRWINDOW 1 40 1 36 DAHKB
BATHSPEC FEET 0.0 0.0 Yx (1OF7.1)

(b) Sea wave conditions

Figure 120. PC_RCPWV input data sets

249
WAVE CONDITIONNUMBER 1: HEIGHT= 1.UUO lvxluu= 13.000 ANGLE= 24.900
1 15 1.1457 22.8084 20.00 13 14 1.0600 20,4761 20.50 25 13 1.0981 18.895(J Z1.o(l
2 15 1,1457 22.8084 20.00 14 15 1.0442 20.8246 21,00 26 13 1.1044 19.3606 20.00
3 15 1.1261 23.4776 21.00 15 15 1.0805 20,3602 20.00 27 13 1.0787 19.0535 2.0.00
4 15 1.1092 22.8081 21.oO 16 14 1.1253 21.4203 20.00 28 14 1.0711 18.6104 20.!30
5 15 1.1012 22.4281 21.00 17 14 1.1337 20.5967 21.00 29 14 1.0738 16.1141 20.03
6 15 1.1079 22,2545 20.00 18 14 1.1587 19.7050 21. cc 30 15 1.1041 15.8477 20.OC
:4 1.1033 22.0361 20.50 19 13 1.1650 20.7193 21.0: 31 16 1.1111 17.3113 21.00
L ;4 1.1171 20.3473 20.50 20 13 1.1450 19.8895 21. co 32 17 1,1205 18.6828 21.OG
~ :4 1.1477 20.4066 20.50 21 13 1.1315 19.5175 21.00 33 17 1.1243 20.5107 2.1.00
10 14 1.1612 21,6274 20.00 22 13 1.1304 19.1443 20.00 34 16 1.1231 20.2253 2’0.00
11 14 1.1187 22.2301 21.00 23 14 1.1069 20.6834 21.00 35 16 1.1111 19.5871 20.50
12 14 1.0831 20.7736 20.50 24 13 1.0967 19.9203 21.00 36 16 1.1111 19.5871 20.50
WAVE CONDITIONNUM8ER 2: HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 9.800 ANGLE= 38.400
1 15 1.1132 34.1305 20.00 13 14 1.0445 29.8011 20.50 25 13 1.0349 28.9697 21.00
2 15 1.1132 34.1305 20.00 14 15 1.0642 30.4823 21.00 26 13 1.0385 29.0954 20,00
3 15 1.0866 34.7261 21.00 15 15 1.1231 30.6616 20.00 27 13 1.0149 28.3704 20.00
4 15 1.0629 33.6138 21.00 16 14 1.1537 32.5388 20.00 28 14 1.0175 27.9170 20.00
5 15 1.0565 33.0376 21.00 17 14 1.1279 32.0999 21.00 29 14 1.0218 25.593o 20.00
6 15 1.0628 32.4952 20.00 18 14 1.1222 31.4284 21.00 30 15 1.0514 25.8696 20.00
7 14 1.0585 32.3159 20.50 19 13 1.0967 32,1724 21.00 31 16 1.0612 27.8377 21.00
8 14 1.0624 30.7520 20.50 20 13 1.0586 30.7503 21.00 32 17 1.0751 29.3628 21.00
9 14 1.0798 31.1121 20.50 21 13 1.0446 30.0736 21.00 33 17 1.0825 31.2205 21.00
10 14 1.0768 31.9976 20.00 22 13 1.0428 29.2180 20.00 34 16 1.0708 30.4063 20.00
11 14 1.0360 32.1074 21.00 23 14 1.0340 30.7843 21.00 35 16 1.0595 29.7939 20.50
12 14 1.0221 30.0343 20.50 24 13 1.0324 29.9237 21.00 36 16 1.0595 29.7939 20.50
WAVE CONDITIONNUMBER 3: HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 11.600 ANGLE= 31.800
1 15 1.1301 28.6210 20.00 13 14 1.0401 25.1182 20.50 25 13 1.0666 24.0665 21.00
2 15 1.1301 28.6210 20.00 14 15 1.0475 25.5600 21.00 26 13 1.0721 24.3562 20.00
3 15 1.1080 29.2883 21.00 15 15 1.1030 25.3746 20.00 27 13 1.0477 23.8256 20.00
4 15 1.0882 28.4040 21.00 16 14 1.1483 26.9122 20.00 28 14 1.0459 23.3521 20.00
5 15 1.0819 27.9182 21.00 17 14 1.1414 26.3875 21.00 29 14 1.0499 20.9229 20.00
6 15 1.0906 27.5480 20.00 18 14 1.1499 25,6943 21.00 30 15 1.0799 20.9363 20.00
7 14 1.0879 27.3525 20.50 19 13 1.1391 26.6638 21.00 31 16 1.0877 22.6725 21.00
8 14 1.0965 25.7363 20.50 20 13 1.1073 25.5630 21.00 32 17 1.0991 24.1243 21.00
9 14 1.1173 25.9743 20.50 21 13 1.0911 25.0255 21.00 33 17 1.1054 25.9747 21.00
10 14 1.1168 27.0442 20.00 22 13 1.0881 24.3840 20.00 34 16 1.0997 25.4306 20.00
11 14 1.0683 27.3707 21.00 23 14 1.0710 25.9189 21.00 35 16 1.0878 24.8027 20.50
12 14 1.0394 25.5015 20.50 24 13 1.0644 25.0696 21.00 36 16 1.0878 24.8027 20.50
WAVE CONDITIONNUM8ER 4 HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 8.000 ANGLE= 41.200
1 15 1.0874 36.6474 20.00 13 14 1.0355 32.3254 20.50 25 13 1.0073 31.4945 21.00
2 15 1.0874 36.6474 20.00 14 15 1.0564 33.1114 21.00 26 13 1.0083 31.5325 20.00
3 15 1.0596 37.1648 21.00 15 15 1.1089 33.4391 20.00 27 13 0.9858 30.7399 20.00
4 15 1.0347 35.9948 21.00 16 14 1.1276 35.3136 20.00 28 14 0.9899 30.3303 20.00
5 15 1.0278 35.4096 21.00 17 14 1,0961 34.8521 21.00 29 14 0.9940 28.1470 20.00
6 15 1.0313 34.8223 20.00 18 14 1.0858 34.1707 21.00 30 15 1.0220 28.5404 20.00
7 14 1.0291 34.6770 20.50 19 13 1.0567 34.7431 21.00 31 16 1.0335 30.5413 21.00
8 14 1.0335 33.2113 20.50 20 13 1.0201 33.2317 21.00 32 17 1.0478 32.0422 21.00
9 14 1.0518 33.6288 20.50 21 13 1.0098 32.5441 21.00 33 17 1.0549 33.8226 21.00
10 14 1.0496 34.4101 20.00 22 13 1.0087 31.6451 20.00 34 16 1.0398 32.9038 20.00
11 14 1.0157 34.4516 21.00 23 14 1.0049 33.1887 21.00 35 16 1.0300 32.3246 20.50
12 14 1.0075 32.4232 20.50 24 13 1.0056 32.3863 21.00 36 16 1.0300 32.3246 20.50

Figure 121. PC_RCPW output file SEAS_S,NSR

however, entry of the extension is not requested and should not be entered.
The file must exist in the default directory, or the appropriate path should
be entered with the file name. For this example, the name NSTST is entered.
The next prompt requests the nearshore wave data base file name, and the name
h’STST is entered. This file must have the extension .NSW and must exist in
the default directory, or the path should be entered together with the file
name. Next, the program prompts for the entry of the nearshore reference
depths file name. Again, this file must have the extension .DEP and reside

250
wAVE CONDITIONNUMBER 1: HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 7.200 ANGLE= 57.300
1 15 0.9488 48.6648 20.00 13 14 1.0086 44.7113 20.50 25 13 3.8885 42.3035 21.00
2 15 0.9488 48.6648 20.00 14 15 1.0253 46.1518 21.00 26 13 0.8823 41.9325 20,00
3 15 0.9085 48 6309 21,00 15 15 1.0453 46.9829 20.00 27 13 ?. 8588 40.6825 20,00
4 15 0.8993 45.9461 21.00 16 14 0.9828 48.3117 20.00 28 14 3.8703 40.4609 20.00
5 15 0.9188 46.3658 21.00 17 14 0.9224 47.1075 21.00 29 :4 3,8755 38.4658 20.00
6 15 0.9537 45.7173 20.00 18 14 0.9070 46.0532 21.00 30 ~~ 0.9052 39.4649 20.00
7 14 0,9988 46.2096 20.50 19 13 0.8788 45.8308 21.00 31 16 0.9220 42.0651 21.00
8 14 1.0097 45.0916 20.50 20 13 0.8585 43.7100 21.00 32 17 0.9416 43.8857 21.00
9 14 1.0209 45.9897 20.50 21 13 0.8686 43.0548 21.00 33 17 0.9442 45.7019 21.00
10 14 0.9936 46.3368 20.00 22 13 0.8736 41.9097 20.00 34 16 0.9131 43.9262 20.00
11 14 0.9558 46.0088 21.00 23 14 0.8831 43.8088 21.00 35 16 0.9072 43.3783 20.50
12 14 0.9629 43.8981 20.50 24 13 0.8918 43.1660 21.00 36 16 0.9072 43.3783 20.50
WAVE CONDITIONNUMBER 2: HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 5.400 ANGLE= 57.300
1 15 0.9000 50.5202 20.00 13 14 0.9472 47.5114 20.50 25 13 0.8522 45.3970 21.00
2 15 0.9000 50,5202 20.00 14 15 0.9604 48.7602 21.00 26 13 0.8409 44,9550 20.00
3 15 0.8740 50.4724 21.00 15 15 0.9682 49.4234 20.00 27 13 0.8198 43.7734 20.00
4 15 0.8722 49.1172 21.00 16 14 0.9140 50.3209 20.00 28 14 0.8314 43.6800 20.00
5 15 0.8923 48.7402 21.00 17 14 0.8735 49.2615 21.00 29 14 0.8351 42.0466 20.00
6 15 0.9192 48.2821 20.00 18 14 0.8656 48.4120 21.00 30 15 0.8605 43.0313 20.00
7 14 0.9514 48.8363 20.50 19 13 0.8459 48.1880 21.00 31 16 0.8792 45.3259 21.00
8 14 0.9503 47.8929 20.50 20 13 0.8310 46.4073 21.00 32 17 0.8970 46.8967 21.00
9 14 0.9520 48.6119 20.50 21 13 0.8400 45.9304 21.00 33 17 0.8985 48.3635 21.00
10 14 0.9243 48.7173 20.00 22 13 0.8395 44.9414 20.00 34 16 0.8684 46.7335 20.00
11 14 0.9017 48.3908 21.00 23 14 0.8519 46.6184 21.00 35 16 0.8661 46.3034 20.50
12 14 0.9102 46.6884 20.50 24 13 0.8584 46.1497 21.00 36 16 0.8661 46.3034 20.50
WAVE CONDITIONNUMBER 3: HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 4.000 ANGLE= 57.300
1 15 0.9008 54.2603 20.00 13 14 0.9226 52.8047 20.50 25 13 0.8676 51.5989 21.00
2 15 0.9008 54.2603 20.00 14 15 0.9311 53.5984 21.00 26 13 0.8502 51.1187 20.00
3 15 0.8949 54.2834 21.00 15 15 0.9294 53.9339 20.00 27 13 0.8323 50.1643 20.00
4 15 0.8978 53.5713 21.00 16 14 0.8973 54.2521 20.00 28 14 0.8447 50.2882 20.00
5 15 0.9113 53.5043 21.00 17 14 0.8849 53.6278 21.00 29 14 0.8463 49.2821 20.00
6 15 0.9195 53.3111 20.00 18 14 0.8862 53.2225 21.00 30 15 0.8663 50.1010 20.00
7 14 0.9271 53.7215 20.50 19 13 0.8760 53.1208 21.00 31 16 0.8871 51.6789 21.00
8 14 0.9152 53.0317 20.50 20 13 0.8657 52.0379 21.00 32 17 0.9019 52.7110 21.00
9 14 0.9126 53.3966 20.50 21 13 0.8710 51.8545 21.00 33 17 0.9025 53.5140 21.00
10 14 0.8934 53.2477 20.00 22 13 0.8632 51.1979 20.00 34 16 0.8774 52.3838 20.00
11 14 0.8917 53.0682 21.00 23 14 0.8778 52.3626 21.00 35 16 0.8790 52.1584 20.50
12 14 0.8995 52.1530 20.50 24 13 0.8790 52.1767 21.00 36 16 0.8790 52.1584 20.50
wAW cONDITIONmm 4: HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 9.000 ANGLE= 57.300
1 15 0.9704 47.8535 20.00 13 14 1.0335 43.4386 20.50 25 13 0.9029 40.9416 21.00
2 15 0.9704 47.8535 20.00 14 15 1.0521 44.9447 21.00 26 13 0.8994 40.6105 20.00
3 15 0.9235 47.8391 21.00 15 15 1.0793 45.8451 20.00 27 13 0.8750 39.3436 20.00
4 15 0.9100 46.0164 21.00 16 14 1.0152 47.3923 20.00 28 14 0.8864 39.0630 20.00
5 15 0.9280 45:3414 21.00 17 14 0.9454 46.1486 21.00 29 14 0.8923 36.9057 20.00
6 15 0.9650 44.6021 20.00 18 14 0.9260 45.0115 21.00 30 15 0.9239 37.8933 20.00
7 14 1.0140 45.0353 20.50 19 13 0.8932 44.8065 21.00 31 16 0.9395 40.6088 21.00
8 14 1.0307 43.8198 20.50 20 13 0.8699 42.5461 21.00 32 17 0.9598 42.5303 21.00
9 14 1.0475 44.7796 20.50 21 13 0.8800 41.8080 21.00 33 17 0.9630 44.5001 21.00
10 14 1.0223 45.2488 20.00 22 13 0.8876 40.5985 20.00 34 16 0.9321 42.6862 20.00
11 14 0.9778 44.9377 21.00 23 14 0.8954 42.5837 21.00 35 16 0.9243 42.0860 20.50
12 14 0.9841 42.6526 20.50 24 13 0.9048 41.8582 21.00 36 16 0.9243 42.0860 20.50
WAVE CONDITIONNUM8ER 5: HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 5.400 ANGLE= 69.900
1 15 0.8324 58.5095 20.00 13 14 0.7761 55.9776 20.50 25 13 0.7116 52.2673 21.00
2 15 0.8324 58.5095 20.00 14 15 0.7806 57.4389 21.00 26 13 0.6936 51.4464 20.00
3 15 0.8520 58.5517 21.00 15 15 0.7726 57.8528 20.00 27 13 0.6712 49.9077 20.00
4 15 0.8768 57.5246 21.00 16 14 0.7090 57.5641 20.00 28 14 0.6865 50.0449 20.00
5 15 0.9059 57.7600 21.00 17 14 0.6931 56.1173 21.00 29 14 0.6907 48.4762 20.00
6 15 0.9172 57.6872 20.00 18 14 0.7045 55.2831 21.00 30 15 0.7169 49.8964 20.00
7 14 0.8616 58.3339 20.50 19 13 0.7016 54.8670 21.00 31 16 0.7376 52.6652 21.00
8 14 0.8069 56.8240 20.50 20 13 0.6949 52.9199 21.00 32 17 0.7615 54.6018 21.00
9 14 0.7848 57.2771 20.50 21 13 0.7077 52.6356 21.00 33 17 0.7597 56.0667 21.00
10 14 0.7466 56.6313 20.00 22 13 0.7061 51.5046 20.00 34 16 0.7256 53.7285 20.00
11 14 0.7396 56.1715 21.00 23 14 0.7235 53.5710 21.00 35 16 0.7269 53,3622 20.50
12 14 0.7521 54.5954 20.50 24 13 0.7272 53.2073 21.00 36 16 0.7269 53.3622 20.50

Figure 122. PC_RCPWV output file SEAS_C.NSR (Continued)

251
 WAVE CONDITION NUM8ER 6: HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 4.000 ANGLE= 69.900

1 15 0.8842 64.7700 20.00 13 14 0.8267 63.1714 20.50 25 13 0.7461 60.3968 21.00

k 2 15 0.8842 64.7700 20.00 14 15 0.8339 64.1097 21.00 26 13 0.7251 59.5058 20.00
3 15 0.8972 65.0057 21.00 15 15 0.8311 64.3340 20.00 27 13 0.7098 58.2386 20.00
4 15 0.8942 64.4463 21.00 16 14 0.7849 63.7614 20.00 28 14 0.7318 5e.7315 20.00
5 15 0,8944 64.6622 21.00 17 14 0.7888 63.0089 21.00 29 14 9.7370 57.7883 20.00
6 15 0.8785 64.4851 20.00 18 14 0.7973 62.6912 21.00 30 15 :.7621 5E :678 20,00
7 14 0.8251 64.3931 20.50 19 13 0.7833 62.4057 21.00 31 16 : 7900 61 :696 21.00
8 14 0.7967 63.1292 20.50 20 13 0.7695 61.0774 21.00 32 17 0.8172 62.6472 21.00
9 14 0.7996 63.4411 20.50 21 13 0.7737 60.9801 21.00 33 17 0.8157 63.4647 7-1.00
10 14 0.7857 62.9361 20.00 22 13 0.7605 60.0952 20.00 34 16 0.7864 61.7448 7-0.00
11 14 0.8012 62.9190 21.00 23 14 0.7848 61.7173 21.00 35 16 0.7902 61.5839 20,50
12 14 0.8102 62.1334 20.50 24 13 0.7694 61.3616 21.00 36 16 0.7902 61.5839 20.50
WAVE CONDITIONNUMBER 7: HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 7.200 ANGLE= 38.800
1 15 1.0793 34.9545 20.00 13 14 1.0177 31.0596 20.50 25 13 1.0053 30.3052 21.00
2 15 1.0793 34.9545 20.00 14 15 1.0365 31.7306 21.00 26 13 1.0057 30.3801 20.00
3 15 1.0562 35.4825 21.00 15 15 1.0853 31.9405 20.00 27 13 0.9843 29.6717 20.00
4 15 1.0339 34.4499 21.00 16 14 1.1085 33.6590 20.00 28 14 0.9873 29,2773 20.00
5 15 1.0272 33.9262 21.00 17 14 1.0855 33.2368 21.00 29 14 0.9906 27.1772 20.00
6 15 1.0296 33.4226 20.00 18 14 1.0794 32.6073 21.00 30 15 1.0168 27.4936 20.00
7 14 1.0263 33.2921 20.50 19 13 1.0562 33.2356 21.00 31 16 1.0280 29.3397 21.00
8 14 1.0288 31.8922 20.50 20 13 1.0229 31.8947 21.00 32 17 1.0408 30.7372 21.00
9 14 1.0439 32.2533 20.50 21 13 1.0118 31.2750 21.00 33 17 1.0474 32.4153 21.00
10 14 1.0398 33.0332 20.00 22 13 1.0088 30.4681 20.00 34 16 1.0341 31.6213 20.00
11 14 1.0069 33.1177 21.00 23 14 1.0043 31.9198 21.00 35 16 1.0252 31.0699 20.50
12 14 0.9955 31.2244 20.50 24 13 1.0037 31.1621 21.00 36 16 1.0252 31.0699 20.50
WAVE CONDITIONNUMBER 8: HEIGHT= 1.000 PERIOD= 9.000 ANGLE= 38.800
1 15 1.1072 34.5380 20.00 13 14 1.0415 30.2682 20.50 25 13 1.0289 29.4516 21.00
2 15 1.1072 34.5380 20.00 14 15 1.0615 30.9604 21.60 26 13 1.0318 29.5596 20.00
3 15 1.0808 35.1165 21.00 15 15 1.1184 31.1620 20.00 27 13 1.0086 28.8280 20.00
4 15 1.0571 34.0085 21.00 16 14 1.1463 33.0197 20.00 28 14 1.0115 28.3873 20.00
5 15 1.0506 33.4375 21.00 17 14 1.1201 32.5822 21.00 29 14 1.0157 26.1111 20.00
6 15 1.0559 32.8934 20.00 18 14 1.1136 31.9165 21.00 30 15 1.0448 26.4080 20.00
7 14 1.0519 32.7227 20.50 19 13 1.0878 32.6247 21.00 31 16 1.0549 28.3638 21.00
8 14 1.0557 31.1922 20.50 20 13 1.0504 31.2023 21.00 32 17 1.0686 29.8684 21.00
9 14 1.0729 31.5595 20.50 21 13 1.0372 30.5311 21.00 33 17 1.0759 31.6929 21.00
10 14 1.0698 32.4191 20.00 22 13 1.0353 29.6761 20.00 34 16 1.0636 30.8692 20.00
11 14 1.0310 32.5186 21.00 23 14 1.0278 31.2233 21.00 35 16 1.0527 30.2692 20.50
12 14 1.0183 30.4761 20.50 24 13 1.0267 30.3839 21.00 36 16 1.0527 30.2692 20.50

Figure 122. (Concluded)

either in the default directory or in the specified path. For this example,
the name NSTST is entered. NSTRAN then prompts for entry of the output file
name without the extension. NSTRAN writes output data in two files, one with
the extension .NSV, and another with the extension .PLD. For this example,
the name NSTNP is entered.
485. At this point the input and output files have been specified, and
the program prompts for specification of the time-step associated with the
offshore wave time series. For this example, the value 3 is entered, indicat-
ing a 3-hr time-step. Next, the program prompts for the number of wave events
per time-step. Because the offshore time series contains both sea and swell
wave events, the value 2 is entered.
486. The next prompt issued by NSTRAN states that if height bands are
required, the number of height bands is entered; otherwise, the value 1 is
entered. Because height bands are not required (for this example), the
value 1 is entered. If more than one height band is specified, the program

252
 FILE: NSTST.NSW SHORELINE ORIENTATION: 54.00
DATA AT WAVEBLOCKS 9 THRU 28 FROM 36 ALONGSHORE RCPWAVE CELLS
CONTAINS 12 UNIQUE NEARSHORE WAVE EVENTS. WAVE HEIGHTS IN FEET*1O.
*************************************************************************
2146
11186 11191 11194 11189 11199 11207 11191 11195 11199 12207
12197 11206 11214 11204 10208 11205 11208 11222 12216 11204
2144
10279 10284 10291 10290 10299 10308 10292 10301 11308 11322
11314 11321 12325 11307 11305 10298 10300 10321 11320 11311
2145
10234 10238 11244 11241 11251 11259 11244 11250 11256 11267
11257 11264 11269 11254 10256 10251 10255 11274 11270 11260
2143
10303 10307 10315 10315 10324 10332 10316 10325 10332 11347
11342 11349 11353 11334 11331 10323 10324 10345 10344 11336
1133
9405 9407 9419 9423 9432 9438 9419 9431 9437 9458
9461 9471 10483 10470 10462 10447 10439 10460 10463 10460
1132
8437 8438 8450 9454 9461 9466 8449 8459 8464 8482
9484 9493 9503 10494 10488 9475 9467 9484 9487 10486
1131
8503 8502 9511 9516 9522 9524 9512 9519 9520 9531
9532 9536 9543 9539 9536 9528 9522 9531 9532 9534
1134
9391 9393 9406 9409 9419 9426 9406 9418 9425 9448
9450 9461 10474 11458 11449 10434 10427 10449 10452 10448
1122
7500 7499 7514 7523 7532 7536 7515 7526 7529 7549
7553 7561 7576 8579 8574 8560 8546 7562 7566 8573
1121
7587 7582 7.595 7604 8614 8617 8601 8610 8611 8624
8627 8630 8638 8643 8641 8632 8621 8629 8629 8634
1143
10293 10297 10304 10303 10312 10319 10305 10313 10319 11332
11326 11332 11337 11319 10317 10311 10312 10331 10330 10323
1144
10284 10288 10296 10295 10304 10312 10297 10305 11312 11326
11319 11326 11330 11312 11310 10303 10305 10325 11324 11316

Figure 123. WTNSWAV output file NSTST.NSW

******************************************************************************
NEARSHORE DEPTH FILE CREATED FROM FILE: SEAS_S.NSR
DATA AT WAVEBLOCKS 9 THRU 28 FROM 36 ALONGSHORE RCPWAVE CELLS
******************************************************************************
20.00 20.00 20.00 21.00 21.00 21.00 20.00 21.00 21.00 21.00
21.00 21.00 20.00 20.00 21.00 20.50 20.50 21.00 20.00 20.50

Figure 124. WTDEPTH output file NSTST.DEP

253
prompts for entry of the wave height band widzh, and z+.en the minimum wave

height.

487. At this point, the required inputs have been specified, and the
progrzn proceeds to compute the potential longshore s~~.ci
transport rates. As
stated previously, NSTRAN writes outpu~ to two output =iles. The output file
with the .NSV extension contains two tables; one lists the estimated cumula-
tive volume of sand transported (at each wave block co~.tained in the nearshore
wave data base) for sea and swell wave events individually and combined. The
other table lists the estimated potential longshore ssnd transport rates,
again for sea and swell wave events individually and combined. Both tables
list left-directed, right-directed, net, and gross valuss. The output file
NSTNP.NSV generated in this example application of the program NSTRAN is
listed in Figure 125. The output file with the ,PLD extension (for dot data)
contains (for each wave block) the estimated left-directed and right-directed
longshore sand transport rates for sea, and swell wave events individually and
combined, This file was designed for plotting purposes, and the data are
written to the file in a format that is accepted by the graphics program
DPLOT . A listing of the file NSTMP.PLD generated in this example is provided
in Figure 126. In Figure 126, the number 20 in the first line indicates to
the program DPLOT that the file contains 20 X-values, and the second line
indicates that for each of the X-values there are 6 corresponding Y-values (or
that there are 6 curves). The remaining line in the file NSTNP.PLD contains
the X-value (which corresponds to the wave block number followed by the left-
directed and right-directed transport rates for sea wave conditions, the left-
directed and right-directed transport rates for swell wave conditions, and the
left-directed and right-directed transport rates for se~ and swell wave
conditions combined). Figure 127 provides a typical example of the graphical
output that can be obtained using the program DPLOT and the file NSTNP.PLD as
input. For comparison, a plot of the potential longshore sand transport rates
estimated using the offshore wave time series (NSTST.CTS) and the program
SEDTRAN is given in Figure 128.
Summarv
468. In summary, NSTRAN uses GENESIS format input files for the
offshore wave time series, the nearshore wave data base, and the nearshore
reference water depths, and it computes potential longshore sand transport
rates at each of the wave blocks contained in the nearshore wave data base.

254
 ESTIMATEDPOTENTIALLONGSHORE SAND TRANSFORTRATES

INPUTOFFSHORETIME SZRIES: NSTST WAV

lNPUTNEARSHOREWAVE CONDITIONS: NSTST NSW
NEARSHOREWAvE BLCC~ XATER DEPTHS: NSTST DEP

TABLE 1
SAND TRANSFORTVOLUMES (M**3)
WAVE WAVE LEFT RIGHT
BLOCK TYPE DIRECTED DIRECTED NET GRCSS
1 SEA 0.00 0.29E+05 0.29E+05 0.29:-25
1 SWELL 0.00 O 89E+05 0.89E+05 0.891-25
1 COMBINED 0.00 0.12E+06 O.12E+06 0.12E-06
2 SEA 0.00 O 29E+05 0.29E+05 0.29E-05
2 SWELL 0.00 0.91E+05 0.91E+05 0.91E-95
2 CCMBINED 0.00 0.12E+06 0.12E+06 0.12S-06
3 SEA 0.00 0.30E+05 0.30E+05 0.301705
3 SWELL 0.00 0.95E+05 0.95E+05 0.95E+05
3 CCMBINED 0.00 0.12E+06 0.12E+06 0.172-06
4 SEA 0.00 0.30E+05 0.30.s+050.30E-05
4 SWELL 0.00 0.93E+05 0.93E+05 0.93E+05
4 CCt-lBINED0.00 0.12E+06 0.12E+06 0.12E+06
5 SEA 0.00 0.30E+05 0.30E+05 o.3oE+f15
5 SWELL 0.00 0.97E+05 0.97E+05 0.97E+05
5 CCMBINED 0.00 0.13E+06 0.13E+06 0.13E+06
6 SEA 0.00 0.30E+05 0.30E+05 0.30E+05
,. 6 SWELL 0.00 0.10E+O6 0.10E+O6 0.10E+O6
6 CCMBINED 0.00 0.13E+06 O.13E+06 O.13E+06
7 SEA 0.00 0.30E+05 0.30E+05 0.30E+05
7 SWELL 0.00 0.94E+05 0.94E+05 0.941+05
7 CCMBINED 0.00 0.12E+06 0.12E+06 0.12S+06
8 SEA 0.00 0.29E+05 0.29E+05 0.29?+05
8 SWELL 0.00 0.95E+05 0.95E+05 0.95E+05
8 CCMBINED 0.00 O.12E+06 0.12E+06 0.12S+06
9 SEA 0.00 0.32E+05 0.32E+05 0.32s+05
9 SWELL 0.00 0.98E+05 0.98E+05 0.98E+05
9 CCMBINED 0.00 0.13E+06 0.13E+06 0.13E+06
10 SEA 0.00 0.35E+05 0.35E+05 0.35E+05
10 SWELL 0.00 0.12E+06 0.12E+06 0.12.5+06
10 CCMBINED 0.00 0.15E+06 0.15E+06 0.15E+06
11 SEA 0.00 0.35E+05 0.35E+05 0.35E+05
11 SWELL 0.00 0.12E+06 0.12E+06 0.122+06
11 CC+lBINED 0.00 0.15E+06 0.15E+06 0.15E+06
12 SEA 0.00 0.35E+05 0.35E+05 0.35E+05
12 SWELL 0.00 0.10E+O6 0.10E+O6 0.10E+O6
12 CCMBINED 0.00 0.14E+06 0.14E+06 0.14E+06
13 SSA 0.00 0.38E+05 0.38E+05 0.38E+05
13 SWELL 0.00 O.1OE+O6 O.1OE+O6 0.10E+O6
13 CCMBINED 0.00 0.14E+06 O.14E+06 O.14E+06
14 SEA 0.00 0.40E+05 0.40E+05 0.40E+05
14 SWELL 0.00 0.10E+O6 0.10E+O6 O.1OE+O6
14 CCMBINED 0.00 0.14E+06 0.14E+06 0.14E+06
15 SEA 0.00 0.36E+05 0.36E+05 0.36E+05
15 SWELL 0.00 0.81E+05 0.81E+05 0.811+05
15 CCMBINED 0.00 0.12E+06 0.12E+06 0.12.S+06
16 SEA 0.00 0.33E+05 0.33E+05 0.33E+05
16 SWELL 0.00 0.96E+05 0.96E+05 0.95E+05
16 COMBINED 0.00 0.13E+06 0.13E+06 0.13E+06
17 SEA 0.00 0.33E+05 0.33E+05 0.33E+05
17 SWELL 0.00 0,97E+05 0.97E+05 0.Q7E+05
17 CCMBINED 0.00 0.13E+06 0.13E+06 0.13E+06
18 SEA 0.00 0.33E+05 0.33E+05 0.33E+05
18 SWELL 0.00 0.10E+O6 0.10E+O6 O.1OE+O6
18 CCM81NED 0.00 0.14E+06 0.14E+06 0.14E+06
19 SEA 0.00 0.36E+05 0.36E+05 0.36E+05
19 SWELL 0.00 0.12E+06 0.12E+06 0.12S+06
19 COMBINED 0.00 0.16E+06 0.16E+06 0.16E+06
20 SEA 0.00 0.36E+05 0.36E+05 0.36E+05
20 SWELL 0.00 0.10E+O6 0.10E+O6 0.10E+O6
20 COMBINED 0.00 0.14E+06 0.14E+06 0.14E+06

Figure 125. NSTRAN output file NSTNP.NSV (Continued)

255
 TABLE 2
SAND TRANSKXT RATES (M’*3/YEAR)
WAVE WAVS LEFT RIGiiT
BLCCK TYPE DIRECTED DIRECTZD NET GROSS
1 SEA 0.00 0.18E-07 O. 18E+07 0.18E+07
1 SWELL 0.00 0.54E-07 0.54E+07 0.54E+07
1 CCMBINED 0.00 0.72E-37 0.72E+07 0.72E+07
2 SEA 0.05 0.185-37 O. 18E+07 0.18E+07
2 SWELL 0.00 0.55E-37 0.55E+07 O 55E+07
2 CCMBINED 0.00 0.73E*07 0.73E+07 0.73E+07
3 SEA 0.00 0. 18E+07 0.18E+07 0.18E+07
3 SWELL 0.00 0. 58E+07 0.58E+07 0.58E+07
3 CCM81NED 0.00 0.76E+07 0.76E+07 0.76E+07
4 SEA 0.00 0.18E+07 0.18E+07 0.18E+07
.4 SWELL 0.00 0. 57E+07 0.57E+07 0.57E+07
4 CCX481NED 0.00 0.74E+07 0.74E+07 0.74E+07
5 SEA 0.00 0.18E+07 O. 18E+07 0.18E+07
5 SWELL 0.00 0. 59E+07 0. 59E+07 0.59E+07
5 CCM81NED 0.00 0.77E+07 0.77E+07 0.77E+07
6 SEA 0.00 0.18E+07 O. 18E+07 0.18E+07
6 SWELL 0.00 0.61E+07 0.61E+07 0.61E+07
6 CCM81NED 0.00 0.79E+07 0.79E+07 0.79E+07
7 SEA 0.00 0. 18E+07 0. 18E+07 0.18E+07
7 SWELL 0.00 0. 57E+07 0.57E+07 0.57E+07
7 CCMBINED 0.00 0. 75E+07 0.75E+07 0.75E+07
0 SEA 0.00 O. 18E+07 0.18E+07 O.18E+07
8 SWELL 0.00 0. 58E+07 0.58E+07 0.58E+07
8 CCM81NED 0.00 0.76E+07 0.76E+07 0.76E+07
9 SEA 0.00 0. 19E+07 0.19E+07 0.19E+07
9 SWELL 0.00 0. 59E+07 0.59E+07 0.59E+07
9 CCM81NED 0.00 0.79E+07 0.79E+07 0.79E+07
10 SEA 0.00 0.21E+07 0.21E+07 0.21E+07
10 SWELL 0.00 0, 73E+07 0.73E+07 0.73E+07
10 COM81NED 0.00 0. 94E+07 0.94E+07 0.94E+07
11 SEA 0.00 0.21E+07 0.21E+07 0.21E+07
11 SWELL 0.00 0.70E+07 0.70E+07 0.70E+07
11 CCM81NED 0.00 0. 92E+07 0.92E+07 0.92E+07
12 SEA 0.00 0.21E+07 0.21E+07 0.21E+07
12 SWELL 0.00 0.61E+07 0.61E+07 0.61E+07
12 CCM81NED 0.00 0. 82E+07 0.82E+07 0.82E+07
13 SEA 0.00 0. 23E+07 0.23E+07 0.23E+07
13 SWELL 0.00 0.64E+07 0.64E+07 0.64E+07
13 CCF181NED 0.00 0. 87E+07 0.87E+07 0.87E+07
14 SEA 0.00 0.24E+07 0.24E+07 0.24E+07
14 SWELL 0.00 0.61E+07 0.61E+07 0.61E+07
14 COMBINED 0.00 0.85E+07 0.85E+07 0.85E+07
15 SEA 0.00 0. 22E+07 0.22E+07 0.22E+07
15 SWELL 0.00 0.49E+07 0.49E+07 0.49E+07
15 CCM81NED 0.00 0.71E+07 0.71E+07 0.71E+07
16 SEA 0.00 0.20E+07 0.20E+07 0.20E+07
16 SWELL 0.00 0. 58E+07 0.58E+07 0.58E+07
16 CCMBINED 0.00 0.78E+07 0.78E+07 0.78E+07
17 SEA 0.00 0. 20E+07 0.20E+07 O.20E+07
17 SWELL 0.00 0. 59E+07 0.59E+07 0.59E+07
17 CCMBINED 0.00 0.79E+07 0.79E+07 0.79E+07
18 SEA 0.00 0.20E+07 0.20E+07 0.20E+07
18 SWELL 0.00 0.64E+07 0.64E+07 0.64E+07
18 CCMBINED 0.00 0.84E+07 0.84E+07 0.84E+07
19 SEA 0.00 0. 22E+07 0.22E+07 0.22E+07
19 SWELL 0.00 0.76E+07 0.76E+07 O.76E+07
19 C~INED 0.00 0.97E+07 0.97E+07 0.97E+07
20 SEA 0.00 O . 22E+07 0.22E+07 0.22E+07
20 SWELL 0.00 0.61E+07 0.61E+07 0.61E+07
20 CC1481NED 0.00 0. 82E+07 0.82E+07 0.82E+07

SIJWl&RYOF TIME SERIES DATA

The duration of the input time series is 0.02 years
NOTE: Since the time series is less than one year in duration, the
estimates reported above may reflect a seasona L bias.
These estimates are based on a baseline orientation of 54.00 degrees
48 events ware processed at a time step of 3, hours
10 sea events were calm
22 swell events were calm

Figure 125. (Concluded)

256
 20
6
1 0.000 0,177E+07 0.000 0.543E+07 0.000 0.;20E+07
2 0.000 0.178E+07 0.000 0.555E+07 0.000 0.-32E+07
3 0.000 0.179E+07 0.000 0.580E+07 0.000 0.T59E+07
4 0.000 0.180E+07 0.000 0.565E+07 0.000 0.-45E+07
5 0.000 0.182E+07 0.000 0.588E+07 0.000 0,-70E+07
6 0.000 0.183E+07 0.000 0.606E+07 0.000 0.789E+07
7 0.000 0.181E+07 0.000 0.574E+07 0.000 0.754E+07
8 0.000 0.179E+07 0.000 0.580E+07 0.000 0.759E+07
9 0.000 0.192E+07 0.000 0.594E+07 0.000 0.786E+07
10 0.000 0.211E+07 0.000 0.732E+07 0.000 0.943E+07
11 0.000 0.213E+07 0.000 0.705E+07 0.000 0.918E+07
12 0.000 0.214E+07 0.000 0.611E+07 0.000 0.824E+07
13 0.000 0.233E+07 0.000 0.636E+07 0.000 0.870E+07
14 0.000 0.243E+07 0,000 0.608E+07 0.000 0.850E+07
15 0.000 0.222E+07 0.000 0.490E+07 0.000 0.712E+07
16 0.000 0.200E+07 0.000 0.584E+07 0.000 0.784E+07
17 0.000 0.200E+07 0.000 0.591E+07 0.000 0.791E+07
18 0.000 0.200E+07 0.000 0.638E+07 0.000 0.838E+07
19 0.000 0.216E+07 0.000 0.757E+07 0.000 0.973E+07
20 0.000 0.217E+07 0.000 0.607E+07 0.000 0.825E+07

Figure 126. NSTRAN output file NSTNP.PLD

The output is written to two output files, one that contains tables of the
transport volume and transport rates, and another that may be used together
with the graphics program DPLOT to display the estimated potential longshore
sand transport rates.
489. The program NSTRAN also provides a check of compatibility of the
nearshore wave data base and the offshore time series. This compatibility

check is possible because NSTRAN and GENESIS relate the offshore wave time
series and the nearshore wave data base in the same way (through the use of an
offshore wave identification key) .

Analysis of Nearshore Wave Data

490. In this section the programs PC_RCPWV, WHEREWAV, WTNSWAV, WTDEPTH,

and NSTRAN are assembled into a suggested nearshore wave data analysis flow
procedure that is referred to as “Wave Data Analysis Stage 2“ and may be
thought of as a local analysis. Figure 129 provides a general outline of the
analysis. As indicated in Figure 129, the analysis of nearshore wave data
begins with completion of the analysis of the offshore wave data as outlined
in Part V (before a nearshore analysis can proceed the offshore analysis must
be completed).

257
 Potentla Lo. L2sh Lre San O ‘-3n5p0r1 ‘2:e5
(rde2. rs. Qre wave co-, :,0”s)

2 o:a E.6-

o- ,, TT
2 4 6 8 10 ~2 14 16 18 20

wave Block Number

Figure 127. Potential longshore sand transport rates based

on nearshore wave data

Potent #al LOnQShore Sand Tr$ns~ort F?:~s

(Off ShOre Wa’#e COnd, l,ons)

1 0!30E.7

8 OOZE.6

2 00 CE. E

o ! 4 1 , ( , 1 , !,
TT
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

wave Block Numbe-

Figure 128. Potential longshore sand transport rates based

on offshore wave data

258
 VVAVE DATA ANALYSIS STAGE 2
(LOCAL ANALYSIS)

w.ngepeo
...g.~....
‘:;~’s Revise/Refine Speclflcatlon of

o
4

Shoreline orientation WHERE

I
Summary
WAV

of
Bno

FINISHED
MODEL

t
yes

(-)
No. of events
per angle and
period band and
wave statistics
Revise/Refine
Specification of:
Angle, Period, &
Height Bands no
A
Transport Rates

PERFORM
PC-RCPWV
RUNS
($/&

R-oyt=l-(-(l

~-@–@+=

Figure 129. Wave data analysis Stage 2 (local analysis)

259
 491. The first step involves running the program WHEREWAV. OUtpUt from
this program defines the number and specific wave conditions that should be
transformed from offshore to the nearshore reference line using the wave
transformation model PC_RCPWV. As indicated in the section on WHEREWAV, the
user may choose to refine the wave classification sysrcm suggested by the
program WHEREWAV at this stage. This refinement may include the addition of a

height band classification category, or just a more refined description of the

wave conditions that will be input to PC_RCPWV (such as using the average
angle for each period band within a given angle band).
492. The second step in the analysis involves performing the required
PC— RCPWV simulations. This step often involves several individual simula-
tions. Remember, sea and swell wave transformations should be computed as
different PC_RCPWV simulations because the program WTNSWAV allows only one
wave type per input file.
493. The third and fourth steps in the analysis involve using the
programs WTNSWAV and WTDEPTH. Both programs read output from PC_RCPWV and
write data in a format suitable for input to GENESIS. Specifically, the
program WTNSWAV writes a nearshore wave data base to an output file with the
extension .NSW, this file may subsequently be copied to a file named NSWAV.ext
and input to GENESIS. The program WTDEPTH writes the nearshore reference
depths to a file with the extension .DEP, which may subsequently be copied to
a file named DEPTH.ext and input to GENESIS.
494. The fifth and final step in the analysis is computation of
potential longshore sand transport rates based on the nearshore wave data
base, and involves using the program NSTRAN. The result of this step will
allow the user to develop a local sediment budget and identify gradients in
the longshore sand transport rate that will indicate zones susceptible to
shoreline erosion or accretion.
495. This analysis, when combined with the shoreline analysis described
in Part IV and outlined in Figure 43, and the Wave Data Analysis Stage 1
procedure described in Part V and outlined in Figure 89, will result in the
preparation of all the input data files (SHORL.ext, SHORM.ext, WAVES.ext,
llSWAV.ext, DEPTH.ext, and, if necessary, SEAWL.ext) required for operating
GENESIS in the design mode, except the START.ext file. A line-by-line

,4
description and step-by-step procedure for preparing the remaining input file
(START.ext) is provided in Part VII.

260
 PART VII : INPUT FILES--STRUCTURE AND ERRORS

496. The first part of this chapter briefly discusses the input files
comprising the GENESIS user interface. Part VI of the Techniczl Reference
presents a more thorough description of the general structure and operation of
the interface together with the preparations that must be made prior to
running the modeling system. Appendix B of the Technical Reference gives
blank copies of input files that may be photocopied for use in projects. It
should be noted, however, that the format for entering the input wave data has
been changed from that described in the Technical Reference.
497. The second part of this chapter contains a list of error and
warning messages that are presently incorporated in GENESIS. The error
trapping capability is continuously being enhanced, and some messages have
been added or changed since publication of the Technical Reference.

In~ut and Output Files

498. GENESIS is operated through use of seven input data files, as

illustrated in Figure 1, Part I. It should be noted that one input data file
has been added to the configuration given in the Technical Reference. Input
and output file names consist of five letters with a three-letter extension.
GENESIS prompts for this extension, denoted by .ext in the figure, during
execution, and it may be specified by the modeler, provided all necessary
input files with the same extension exist. GENESIS reads the input files and
performs the shoreline change simulation according to the instructions and
data contained in them. When the simulation is completed, the output from
GENESIS is placed in three files having the same extension as the input files,
as shown in Figure 1, Part I.
499, All input files must begin with four header lines, and GENESIS

skips over these when the files are read (except for the input file NSWAV.ext,
see Part VI). If the four header lines are not present, GENESIS will begin
reading data at an incorrect position with a possible undetected computation
error, give an error message that the data file holds too few values, complain
about the data input format, or give a run-time error that will be very diffi-
cult to trace, since the false data may cause a program crash at an arbitrary
line in the program.

261
 500. The seven input files that GENESIS will look for when it is
executed are named START.ext, SHORL.ext, SHORM.ext, WAVES.ext, SEAWL.ext,
NSWAV.ext, and DEPTH.ext, where “ .ext” stands for the three-letter extension
specified by the modeler. Of these files, START, SHORL, SHORM, and WAVES are
always required, whereas SEAWL, NSWAV, and DEPTH may or may not be called by
GENESIS, depending on instructions entered by the user in the START file.
START
501. The input file START.ext contains the instructions that control
the shoreline change simulation and is the principal interface between the
modeler and GENESIS. The START file contains requests for information in a
series of lines arranged in sections according to the general subject. The
number of lines holding values in response to a specific request is arbitrary.
Unless instructed otherwise, a response (an alphanumeric character) must be
given to a request. Because the data are read in free format, if several
values are required, they may be separated by a space or by a comma, or both.
However, the line request identifier letter (Al, B.1, Cl,...) should not be
moved from column 1, as GENESIS looks for it there. Because a new input file
containing nearshore wave data has been added to GENESIS, the START.ext file
has been changed. The next section provides line-by-line instructions for
compiling the START file.
SHORL
502. The input file SHORL.ext holds the position of the shoreline used
by GENESIS at the start of calculation. Positions of the shoreline are given
in the units selected at Line A.2 of the START file and are measured from the
baseline (x-axis). A shoreline position must be given for each grid cell. It
is important to note that even if only a subsection of the shoreline is used
in the simulation, shoreline positions must still be given for the full range
of the calculation grid (NN points), as GENESIS will load positions of the
shoreline subsection with reference to the original, full grid. Shoreline
positions may be entered in “free format,” provided that exactly 10 entries
are Placed on each line. except for the last line. Figures 56 through 59 in
Part IV give examples of a SHORL file.
SHORM
503. The input file SHORM.ext holds the position of the measured shore-
line to be reproduced in the procedure of calibrating or verifying the model.

262
The format and rules for entering data into SHORM.ext are the same as for
SHORL.ext.
wAVES
504. The input file WAVES.ext holds offshore wave information. If an
external wave refraction model is not used (NWD = O on Line B.3 of the START
file) , the offshore waves drive the shoreline change simulation. If an
external wave refraction model is used (NWD = 1), the shoreline change
simulation portion of GENESIS uses nearshore wave information read from the
NSWAV file as discussed in the following paragraphs. At each wave data time-
step DTW (specified at Line B.6 of the START file), the WAVES.ext file must
contain a triplet of wave period, height, and direction at the depth DZ
(specified at Line B.2 of the START file).
505. The three offshore quantities of wave period, height, and direc-
tion are placed on the same line and may be entered in “free format. ” An
example of a WAVES file with only one wave component (NWAVES = 1) is given in
Figure 130, where each line corresponds to one time-step. As demonstrated in
the figure, the modeler is free to write a comment after the three wave
quantities. GENESIS reads only three values on each line.
SEAWL
506. The input file SEAWL.ext holds the positions of one or more
seawalls or effective seawalls with respect to the baseline and specified in
the proper length units. Figure 26 in the Technical Reference gives an
example of a SEAWL file. The format and rules for entering data into
SEAWL.ext are the same as for SHORL.ext, Seawall positions are entered at
shoreline position points, i.e. , at the centers of grid cells.
DEPTH
507. The input file DEPTH.ext is read if an external wave refraction
model has previously been run to provide wave data. DEPTH holds depths along
the nearshore reference line from which GENESIS will continue to propagate
waves using its own wave transformation routines, and the wave data held in
input file NSWAV will bear a one-to-one correspondence with these depths in
order of grid cell number. If an external wave refraction model was not used,
this file will not be read. The format and rules for entering data into
DEPTH.ext are the same as for SHORL.ext. Figure 113 gives an example of a
DEPTH.ext file.

263
 ****************************************************+*****************
WAVES FOR ILLUSTRATITJE EXAMPLE IN WORKBOOK.
FILE WAVES.WKB CONTAINS OFFSHORE WAVE DATA. DT = 6 HR. DX = 15 FT.
***** ***** ***** ********
2.0 1.00 -30.0 JAN 1987
2.0 1.00 00.0
2.0 1.00 00.0
3.0 1.00 -30.0
2.0 1.00 00.0
2.0 1.00 00.0
3.0 2.00 15.0
2.0 1.00 00.0
2.0 1.00 00.0
3.0 2.00 15.0
2.0 1.00 00.0
2.0 1.00 00.0
3.0 1.00 15.0
2.0 1.00 00.0
2.0 1.00 00.0
3.0 2.00 38.0
2.0 1.00 00.0
Figure 130. Example WAVES file

NSWAV
508. If an external wave refraction model is used (NWD = 1 on Line B.3
of the START file), the input file NSWAV.ext holds nearshore wave information
that drives the shoreline change simulation in GENESIS through calculation of
the wave-induced longshore sand transport rate. NSWAV must contain the wave
height and direction for each point on the nearshore depth reference line.
The wave period is assumed to be constant alongshore and is read from the
WAVES file holding the offshore wave conditions. Each offshore wave event
contained in the WAVES.ext file is mapped to a set of ~.earshore wave condi-
tions through the offshore wave identification key as discussed in Part VI.
509. The nearshore wave height and direction are held in “compressed
format” to minimize storage space. Thus, values of individual pairs of wave
height H and wave direction Z at nearshore grid points are held in a quantity
IZH and read in the integer format 1017. The integer IZH will be converted to

real numbers by GENESIS. If the wave direction is negztive, IZH should be

given a negative sign. Example 1: If ICONV = 1 (metric units selected at

Line A.2 in the START file), H = 2.18 m and Z = 10.7 deg will produce the
value IZH = 218107. Exam~le 2: If ICONV = 2 (American customary units

selected) , H = 10.1 ft and Z = -21.0 deg will produce the value IZH = -101210.

264
 510. If an external wave transformation model is not used (1$~’D = O on
Line B.3 of the START file), NSWAV will not be read. An example of an NSWAV
file is given in Figure 131. Each data block, comprising three ltnes with 10
values preceded by an offshore wave identification key as described in
part VI.

Preparation of the START File

511. The input file START.ext contains the instructions that control
the shoreline change simulation and is the principal interface between the I
I
modeler and GENESIS. Once a generic START file for a project is prepared,
typically only a few quantities in it will need to be changed during the
course of verification, sensitivity testing, design optimization, etc.

FILE: OUT4.NSW SHORELINE ORIENTATION: 0.00

DATA AT WAVEBLOCKS 4 THRU 33 FROM 36 ALONGSHORE RCPWAVE CELLS
CONTAINS 6 UNIQUE NEARSHORE WAVE EVENTS. WAVE HEIGHTS IN METERS/100.
*************************************************************************
1143
78275 78258 77244 77227 76226 76248 77252 80258 82255 83264
85271 88256 90262 93267 98277 101268 103274 105278 104263 101264
101259 102262 107279 113276 115266 115263 116277 119278 120281 123285
1151
-103084-103091-102096-101097-100095- 100089-101094-100098-100104 -99099
-98100 -97106 -97108 -95105 -94101 -93101 -93095 -94094 -95104 -95112
-94119 -93120 -92117 -91118 -91121 -90118 -90114 -90117 -90123 -90124
1162
-113267-112284-109286-108280-108271- 108265-107281-104288 -99294 -95275
-95272 -95280 -92277 -91264 -90249 -91248 -94242 -98251 -98280 -94303
-88305 -85296 -84286 -84282 -84288 -84279 -86274 -87283 -88304 -87304
2143
78275 78258 77244 77227 76226 76248 77252 80258 82255 83264
85271 88256 90262 93267 98277 101268 103274 105278 104263 101264
101259 102262 107279 113276 115266 115263 116277 119278 120281 123285
2151
-103084-103091-102096-101097- 100095-100089-101094-100098-100104 -99099
-98100 -97106 -97108 -95105 -94101 -93101 -93095 -94094 -95104 -95112
-94119 -93120 -92117 -91118 -91121 -90118 -90114 -90117 -90123 -90124
2162
-113267-112284-109286-108280- 108271-108265-107281-104288 -99294 -95275
-95272 -95280 -92277 -91264 -90249 -91248 -94242 -98251 -98280 -94303
-88305 -85296 -84286 -84282 -84288 -84279 -86274 -87283 -88304 -87304

Figure 131. Example NSWAV file

265
 512. Figure 132 shows an example of a START file. The START file
contains requests for information in a series of lines that are arranged in
sections according to general subject. Lines of text (the request portion)
should be neither added nor deleted from the START file, as GENESIS will skip
over thess request lines to read the input values. Also, the line request
identifier letter (Al, B.1, C.I,... ) should not be moved from column 1, as
GENESIS looks for it there. However, the number of lines holding values in
response to a specific request is arbitrary. Unless instructed otherwise, a
response (an alphanumeric character) must be given to a request. If several
values are required, they may be separated by a space or by a comma, or both.
513. Names of internal variables, particularly values that are be used
to dimension arrays, are given in parentheses in the requests. As an aid in
using this manual, the key variable associated with the request is given at
the start of each of the following paragraphs. These names also appear in
error messages and are needed when discussing START file configurations with
others .
A. Model setu~
514. Line Al: TITLE . The first line of the START file requests a
project title, which may be up to 70 characters long. The title line normally
contains descriptive information about the particular run, for example,
“ILLUSTRATIVE EXAMPLE FOR WORKBOOK. ”
515. Line A.2: ICONV . The variable ICONV is a flag telling GENESIS
the length units of the calculation. Calculations are performed by using
either meters or feet, as selected at Line A.2. All length, height, and depth
inputs, including wave height, water depths, seawall positions, etc. , must be
given in the specified units, and output will similarly be expressed in these
units. (The only exception is median grain size diameter on Line Cl, which
must be given in millimeters. )
516. Line A.3: NN, DX. The total number of calculation cells NN
(called “N” in the text of this report) and the cell length DX (called “ x“)
are entered here. The product of NN and DX gives the total length of the
modeled reach.
517. Line A.4: ISST.4RT, N . This request allo~~s the user to perform
simulations over a portion of the grid through specification of starting and
ending grid cells (boundaries) other than 1 and N+l, respectively. This
option is useful if a long grid has originally been prepared but, in a

266
 **************************************************
$-’ * INPUT FILE START.ext FOR GENESIS VERSION 2.0 *
b **************************************************
A--- ------------------ ------- MODEL SETUP ------------------------- -----A
Al RUN TITLE
ILLUSTRATIVE EXAMPLE FOR WORKBOOK
A.2 INPUT UNITS (METERS=l; FEET=2): ICONV
2
A.3 TOTAL NUMBER OF CALCULATION CELLS AND CELL LENGTH: NN, DX /
37 200
A.4 GRID CELL NUMBER WHERE SIMULATION STARTS AND NUMBER OF CALCULATION
CELLS (N = -1 MEANS N = NN): ISSTART, N
1 -1
A.5 VALUE OF TIME STEP IN HOURS: DT
12
A.6 DATE WHEN SHORELINE SIMULATION STARTS
(DATE FORMAT YYMMDD: 1 MAY 1992 = 920501): SIMDATS
870101
A.7 DATE WHEN SHORELINE SIMUIJ-iTIONENDS OR TOTAL NUMBER OF TIME STEPS
(DATE FORMAT YYMMDD: 1 MAY 1992 = 920501): SIMDATE
870131
A.8 NUMBER OF INTERMEDIATE PRINT-OUTS WANTED: NOUT
1
A.9 DATES OR TIME STEPS OF INTERMEDIATE PRINT-OUTS
(DATE FORMAT YYMMDD: 1 MAY 1992 = 920501, NOUT VALUES): TOUT(I)
870115
A.1O NUMBER OF CALCULATION CELLS IN OFFSHORE CONTOUR SMOOTHING WINDOW
(ISMOOTH = O MEANS NO SMOOTHING, ISMOOTH = N MEANS STRAIGHT LINE.
RECOMMENDED VALUE = 11): ISMOOTH
11
All REPEATED WARNING MESSAGES (YES=l; NO=O): IRWM
1
A.12 LONGSHORE SAND TRANSPORT CALIBIUiTION COEFFICIENTS: Kl, K2
.77 .38
A.13 PRINT-OUT OF THE TIME STEP NUMBERS? (YES=l, NO=O): IPRINT
1
B--- --------------------- -------- WAVES ------------------------- -------R
B.1 WAVE HEIGHT CHANGE FACTOR. WAVE ANGLE CHANGE FACTOR AND AMOUNT (DEG) -
(NO CHANGE: HCNGF=l, ZCNGF=l, ZCNGA=O): HCNGF, ZCNGF, ZCNGA
110
B.2 DEPTH OF OFFSHORE WAVE INPUT: DZ
60
B.3 IS AN EXTERNAL WAVE MODEL BEING USED (YES-1; NO=O): NWD
o
B.4 COMMENT: IF AN EXTERNAL WAVE MODEL IS NOT BEING USED, CONTINUE TO B.6
B.5 NUMBER OF SHORELINE CALCULATION CELLS PER WAVE MODEL ELEMENT: ISPW
1
B.6 NUMBER OF HEIGHT BANDS USED IN THE EXTERNAL WAVE MODEL TRANSFORMATIONS
(MINIMUM IS 1, MAXIMUM IS 9): NHBANDS
9

Figure 132. Example START file (Sheet 1 of 3)

267
B.7 COMMENT: IF ONLY ONE HEIGHT BAND WAS USED CONTINUE TO B.9
B.8 MINIMUM WAVE HEIGHT AND BAND WIDTH OF HEIGHT BANDS: HBMIN, HBWIDTH
1.0 2.0
B.9 VALUE OF TIME STEP IN WAVE DATA FILE IN HOURS (MUST BE AN EVEN MULTIPLE
OF, OR EQUAL TO DT): DTW
12
B.1O NUMBER OF WAVE COMPONENTS PER TIME STEP: NWAVES
1
B.11 DATE WHEN WAVE FILE STARTS (FORMAT YYMMDD: 1 MAY 1992 = 920501): WDATS
870101
c ----- -----
----- ----- ----- ----- - BEACH ------------------------- ------- -c
C.1 EFFECTIVE GIUIN SIZE DIAMETER IN MILLIMETERS: D50
0.25
C.2 AVERAGE BERM HEIGHT FROM MEAN WATER LEVEL: ABH
3
C.3 CLOSURE DEPTH: DCLOS
15
D--- --------------------- NONDIFFRACTING GROINS -------------------------D
D.1 ANY NONDIFFRACTING GROINS? (NO=O, YES=l): INDG
1
D.2 ~oMMENT: IF NO NONDIFFRACTING GROINS, CONTINUE TO E.
D.3 NUMBER OF NONDIFFIUCTING GROINS: NNDG
1
D.4 ;RID CELL NUMBERS OF NONDIFFRACTING GROINS (NNDG VALUES): IXNDG(I)
15
D.5 LENGTHS OF NONDIFFR4CTING GROINS FROM X-PXIS (NNDG VALUES): YNDG(I)
200
E--- -------------- DIFFWCTING (LONG) GROINS AND JETTIES -----------------E
E.1 ANY DIFFRACTING GROINS OR JETTIES? (NO=O, YES=l): IDG

E.2 ;OMMENT: IF NO DIFFRACTING GROINS, CONTINUE TO F.

E.3 NUMBER OF DIFFRACTING GROINS/JETTIES: NDG
1
E.4 GRID CELL NUMBERS OF DIFFFWCTING GROINS/JETTIES (NDG VALUES): IXDG(I)
5
E.5 LENGTHS OF DIFFRACTING GROINS/JETTIES FROM X-AXIS (NDG VALUES): YDG(I)
230
E.6 DEPTHS AT SEAWARD END OF DIFFRACTING GROINS/JETTIES(NDG VALUES): DDG(I)
5
F-- ---------- ----- ---- ALL GROINS/JETTIES ------------------------- -----F
F.1 COMMENT: IF NO GROINS OR JETTIES, CONTINUE TO G.
F.2 REPRESENTATIVE BOTTOM SLOPE NEAR GROINS: SLOPE2
0.062
F.3 PERMEABILITIES OF ALL GROINS AND JETTIES (NNDG+NDG VALUES): PERM(I)
0.0 .1
F.4 IF GROIN OR JETTY ON LEFT-HAND BOUNDARY, DISTANCE FROM SHORELINE
OUTSIDE GRID TO SEAWARD END OF GROIN OR JETTY: YG1

F.5 IF GROIN OR JETTY ON RIGHT-HAND BOUNDARY, DISTANCE FROM SHORELINE

OUTSIDE GRID TO SEAWARD END OF GROIN OR JETTY: YGN

Figure 132. (Sheet 2 of 3)

268
G--- -------------------- -- DETACHED BREAKWATERS ------------------------- -G
G.1 ANY DETACHED BREAKWATERS? (NO=O, YES=l): IDB
1
G.2 COMMENT: IF NO DETACHED BREAKWATERS, CONTINUE TO H.

G.3 NUMBER OF DETACHED BREAKWATERS: NDB

.
L

G.4 ANY DETACHED BREAKWATER ACROSS LEFT-HAND CALCULATION BOUNDARY

(NO=O, YES=l): IDB1
o
G.5 ANY DETACHED BREAKWATER ACROSS RIGHT-HAND CALCULATION BOUNDARY
(NO=O, YES=l): IDBN
o
G.6 GRID CELL NUMBERS OF TIPS OF DETACHED BREAKWATERS:
(2 * NDB - (IDB1+lDBN) VALUES): lxDB(l)
20 30
G.7 DISTANCES FROM X-AXIS TO TIPS OF DETACHED BREAKWATERS
(1 VALUE FOR EACH TIP SPECIFIED IN G.6): YDB(I)
450 450
G.8 DEPTHS AT DETACHED BREAKWATER TIPS (1 VALUE FOR EACH TIP
SPECIFIED IN G.6): DDB(I)
15 15
G.9 DETACHED BREAKWATER TRANSMISSION COEFFICIENTS (NDB VALUES): TRANDB(I)
o
H------------------------------ SEAWALLS -------------------------
------H
H.1 ANY SEAWALL ALONG THE SIMULATED SHORELINE? (YES=l; NO=O): ISW
1
H.2 COMMENT: IF NO SEAWALL, CONTINUE TO I.
H.3 GRID CELL NUMBERS OF START AND END OF SEAWALL (ISWEND = -1 MEANS
ISWEND = N): ISWBEG, ISWEND
5 16
I--- -------------------- ------ BEACH FILLS ------------------------- ----I
1.1 ANY BEACH FILLS DURING SIMULATION PERIOD? (NO=O, YES=l): IBF
1
1.2 COMMENT: IF NO BEACH FILLS, CONTINUE TO K.
1.3 NUMBER OF BEACH FILLS DURING SIMULATION PERIOD: NBF
1
1.4 DATES OR TIME STEPS WHEN THE RESPECTIVE FILLS START
(DATE FORMAT YYMMDD: 1 MAY 1992 = 920501, NBF VALUES): BFDATS(I)
870101
1.5 DATES OR TIME STEPS WHEN THE RESPECTIVE FILLS END
(DATE FORMAT YYMMDD: 1 MAY 1992 = 920501, NBF VALUES): BFDATE(I)
870115
1.6 GRID CELL NUMBERS OF START OF RESPECTIVE FILLS (NBF VALUES): IBFS(I)
20
1.7 GRID CELL NUMBERS OF END OF RESPECTIVE FILLS (NBF VALUES): IBFE(I)
33
1.8 ADDED BERM WIDTHS AFTER ADJUSTMENT TO EQUILIBRIUM
. CONDITIONS
(NBF VALUES): YADD(I)
30
K------------------------------ COMMENTS ------------------------ ---------K
* COMMENTS AND VERSION UPDATE INFORMATION PIACED HERE
---------------------------- END OF START.ext ----------------------- --------

Figure 132. (Sheet 3 of 3)

269
particular application, details of shoreline change along a subsection are to

be studied. It is cautioned that the numbers of the starting cell 1.S~~fi~ and

ending cell N of the subsection grid must be located in physically reasonable

areas for meaningful results to be obtained, In almost all circumstances,

lateral boundaries should be placed either at a long groin or jetty or at a

historically stable section of coast. It is recommended that this option not
be exercised until experience is gained running GENESIS. If simulation of
shoreline change in a subsection is not performed, the values of ISSTART and N

should be 1 and NN (as specified on Line A.3), respectively. By setting N

equal to -1, GENESIS will set N equal to NN, and the value of N does not have
to be changed for each new application.
518. Line A.5: DT. For a specific simulation interval, smaller values
of the duration of the time-step DT (called “ t“ in the main text of this
report) increase the computational run time, whereas larger values of DT
result in a less accurately predicted shoreline position. A time-step of 6 hr
is recommended for design, but longer time-steps may be used, for example,
24 hr, depending on the variability of the input waves. Scoping applications
typically use a long time-step (on the order of 24 hr). The wave data input
file (WAVES) must provide wave data at the specified time-step. To satisfy
this requirement, DT must be a proper fraction (e.g., 1/2, 1/4) of the time-
step DTW defining entries in the wave file (Line B.6).
519. Line A.6: SIMDATS. The date when the calculation starts SIMDATS
is needed to key GENESIS for selecting the correct season of waves, coordinat-
ing beach fills, and entering changes in structure configurations. The input
format is defined as a six-digit number, with two digits each representing the
year (YY), month (MM), and day (DD) in that order, i.e., YYMMDD. A full six-
digit number must be specified for proper starting of the WAVES file.
520. Line A.7: SIMDATE. The simulation interval can be specified in
terms of either the number of time-steps or the date SIMDATE in simulation
time . During testing and scoping, for which the model is run for only a few
time-steps, it is convenient to use the number of time-steps. In design mode
the dates of measured shorelines are known, and it is convenient to work in
simulation time. GENESIS distinguishes time-step and date input through the
magnitude of the value of SIMDATE; if SIMDATE is greater than or equal to
180,000, GENESIS will interpret it as a date, whereas if the value is smaller
than 180,000, GENESIS will interpret it as the number of time-steps.

270
 521. Line A.8: NOUT . In many situations, it is very informative to

Study the time evolution of the calculated shoreline change. For example, in

desigtl mode, for which simulations are made over several years, the shoreline
location at the end of each month or each year may be desired. The value

entered here NO~’T specifies the total nwber of simulated times when output
should be written to file (OUTPT.ext, discussed in the following paragraph ).

The output of data at the final time-step does not have to be included, since
it is a default output.
522. Line A,9: TOUT(I). Output may be specified by either the number
of time-steps or the corresponding dates in simulation time. The number of
outputs TOUT(I) (time-steps or dates) specified must match the number entered
on Line A.8.
523. Line A.1O: ISMOOTH. The representative contour used in the
internal wave calculation is determined through an alternating- direction
moving average algorithm. The variable ISMOOTH specifies the size of the
moving window over which the average is calculated. If ISMOOTH is set equal
to O, no smoothing is performed, and the representative contour will follow
the shoreline. If ISMOOTH is set to N, the representative contour will be a
straight line parallel to one drawn between the two end points of the shore-
line.
524. Line All: IRWM . The variable IRJJM allows the user to suppress
print out of repeated warning messages (see the section “Warning Messages”).
For example, if a preliminary or scoping analysis is being performed with a
long time-step, the value of the stability parameter STAB (called R~ in the
main text) is likely to exceed 5.0, and a warning message will be issued at
every time-step. If IRWM is set equal to zero, only one warning message will
be given, and the screen and output file SETUP will not be cluttered with
warning messages. In planning and designing applications, the mode~er will
want to be aware of potentially undesirable conditions and should set

IRWM = 1.

525. Line A.12: K1. K2. Values of the longshore sand transport
calibration coefficients KI and K2 (called K1 and X2 in the main text) require
adjustment in the process of model calibration. For sandy beaches, experience
has shown that values are typically in the ranges of 0.1 < K1 < 1.0 and
0.5KI <I(2< 1.5 K1. Initial trial runs might use Xl = 0.5 and K2 = 0.25.
The transport parameter KI controls the time scale of the calculation and is

271
the principal calibration coefficient in GENESIS. Further discussion is given

in Part 11. (Note: the above-mentioned values of K1 and K2 correspond to rms

wave height. Significant wave height should be entered in the WAVES file,
however, because GENESIS automatically converts heights in the wave file from
significant to rms.)
526. Line A.13: IPRINT . A computer program, in this cases GENESIS,
can be executed in two ways on most mainframe computers, by interactive mode
(sometimes called demand mode) and by batch mode. In interactive mode,
instructions are entered from the keyboard and reproduced on the monitor or
printer; in this mode, the terminal launching the job is devoted fully to
execution of the program. In batch mode, the job is launched through a batch
file devised by the user. The batch file contains commands and other data
required to run the program and acts as a substitute for entries made at the
keyboard, A job launched in batch mode will execute in the background and
free the user’s terminal for other applications. If GENESIS is executed in
interactive mode, a counter can be requested through IPRINT to appear on the

screen to show the time-step presently being executed. The counter will be
updated without causing the screen to scroll. If the counter is activated in
batch mode, one line will be printed in the default “log” file at each time-
step. The time-step counter is activated by setting IPRINT = 1 and suppressed

by setting IPRINT = O.

B. Waves
527. Line B.1: HCNGF, ZCNGF. ZCNGA. The wave height change factor
HCNGF multiplies the wave height along the reference line (or multiplies the
deepwater wave height if the internal wave model in GENESIS is used; see
Line B.3). The wave angle change factor ZCNGF performs a similar operation on
the wave angle. The wave angle amount ZCNGA is added to (or subtracted from,
if negative) wave angles along the nearshore reference line (or from the
deepwater wave angle if nearshore wave data are not used). The change
parameters allow quick answers to be obtained to scoping questions, such as
“What if the waves are 20 percent higher” or “What if the waves arrive from
5 deg farther out of the east than the hindcast indicates?” In order to run
with the original, unchanged wave input (the normal situation), the value of
the wave height change factor is 1.0, the wave angle change factor is 1.0, and
the wave angle change amount is 0.0.

272
 528. Line B.2: DZ. The depth of the offshore wave input DZ is
*<,
required in order to refract waves to breaking. This depth corresponds to the

depth at which waves originated if a refraction model was used to bring waves
to a nearshore reference line or the depth of the input wave record if a
refraction model was not used, as specified on Line B.3.
529. Line B.3: NWD. The value specified for the flag NWD determines
whether the waves will be refracted internally by GENESIS from the wave data
contained in the input file WAVES.ext (in which case NWD = O and the input
wave data correspond to an offshore location) or if the file NSWAV.ext
contains wave information along the nearshore reference depth line (NWD = 1),
in which case a refraction routine (for example, RCPWAVE) has already been
used to bring waves to relatively shallow water.
530. Line B.5: ISPW . For simulations covering large spatial extent,
it may not be computationally feasible to run the wave refraction model using
the same (relatively fine) spatial alongshore resolution as that specified in
GENESIS. By setting ISPW to an integer greater than unity, the size of the
wave calculation cells alongshore will be a multiple of the cell length used
by GENESIS.
531. Line B.6: NHBANDS . This input specifies whether or not wave
height bands were used as a classification category in the nearshore transfor-
mation simulations. Normally wave height bands are ~ required (see
Part VI). If wave height bands were not used, the value 1 should be entered.
If wave height bands were used, then the number of height bands should be
entered. The maximum number of height bands permitted is 9.
532. Line B.8: HBMIN. HBWIDTH. This input defines the boundaries of
the height bands specified in Line B.6 (NHBANDS). If NHBANDS = 1, this line
may be left blank. However, if NHBANDS is greater than 1, then the minimum
offshore wave height and the wave height band width should be entered. For
example, in Figure 132, nine wave height bands are specified in Line B.6, and
in Line B.8 the minimum offshore wave height (HBMIN) is specified at 1.0 (ft)
and the height band width (HBWIDTH) is specified at 2.0 (ft). Therefore,
GENESIS will establish the following offshore wave height bands: height band
number 1, for offshore wave heights between 1.0 and 3.0 ft; height band number
2, for offshore wave height between 3.0 and 5.0 ft; etc.
533. Line B.9: DTW In situations where the temporal resolution of
the available wave data is not as great as the time-step DT to be used in the

273
simulation, it is possible to run GENESIS with repeated wave conditions at
each time-step, as specified by the variable DTii. As an example, suppose wave

data are available only at 24-hr intervals, but the model is to be run at the
standard 6-hr time-step to maintain numerical accuracy and/or stability; then
by specifying DTW = 24 on line B.6 (and DT = 6 on line A.5), each set of wave
conditions in the WAVES file will be run four times. Repetition of wave data
is also used in the modeling of simple hypothetical cases in which constant
wave conditions may be acceptable throughout the entire simulation; DTW can be
set to be equal to or greater than the total simulation time in hours deter-
mined by the values specified at Lines A.5 through A.7. Then the first wave
condition in the WAVES file will be run at every step.
534. Line B.1O: NWAVES . The variable NWAVES provides the number of
independent wave sources per step. Wave measurements often show two or more
spectral peaks, indicating the presence of distinct wave trains. For example,
swell may arrive from a distant storm, whereas sea waves are generated by
local winds. These two types of waves are independent and will have different
heights, periods, and directions. Also, WIS provides sea and swell components
separately. GENESIS allows input of an arbitrary number of wave components.
These are treated independently, with each component generating a longshore
sand transport rate. The transport rates from each wave component at a given
time-step are added linearly, including sign, to give the net transport rate
at that time-step.
535. As another situation in which an extra wave component might enter
a simulation, a long jetty may reflect a significant portion of the incident
wave energy. If reflected waves are believed to appear in the breaking wave
climate and influence shoreline evolution in the area, a time series of these
waves may be included as a component in the WAVES file.
536. Line B.11: WDATS . The starting date of the shoreline change
simulation was given at Line A.6. From the date of the start of the wave file
WDATS entered at the present line, GENESIS determines the location in the
WAVES file corresponding to the start of the simulation. In most verifica-
tions and in all predictions, contemporaneous measured wave data do not exist
for the simulation interval, and the input file WAVES is ~’ie~’edas holding
representative wave data for a number of typical years. Therefore, it is the
number of years, starting from a particular month and day (season) that is
usually important, not the actual date of the year. Simulation results for a

274
beach fill placed in late spring or early summer will probably be much
different than if the fill were placed under stormy winter waves. By begin-
ning the simulation at the appropriate month and day, the phase of seasonality
is preserved. It is a happy day in a modeler’s life if gage or hindcast wave

data are available over the full calibration or verification interval. If SO,

these data should be used.

537. The modeler will normally specify the date of the start of the
WAVES file, i.e. WDATS, such that the simulation will begin at the first month
and day occurring in that file. If it is desired to start the simulation in a
year other than the first year appearing in the WAVES file, then the starting
date of the WAVES file should be changed to move the starting pointer to the
required year, month, and day. As a specific example, if the modeler wants to
start the simulation in the second year of the wave data set rather than the
first year, the starting date of the WAVES file should be set to 1 year later.
The effect of seasonality in the wave data on shoreline response can be
investigated by starting the WAVES file in different months.
c. Beach
538. Line Cl: D50 . GENESIS uses the median diameter of the sand to
compute an equilibrium profile shape. The profile shape determines the
distance from the shoreline to the point of wave breaking at each grid cell
and hence the effective zone of longshore sand transport. The location of
breaking also determines whether diffraction will take place, as sources of
diffraction must lie seaward of the breaker zone. Figure 7 in the Technical
Reference can be consulted for selecting an appropriate value of d50.
539. Line C.2: ABH. The average berm height ABH (called DB in the
main text) above the mean water level or the datum used in the modeling is
entered here.
540. Line C.3: DCLOS . The closure depth DCLOS (called “Dc” in the
main text) defines the seaward limiting depth of profile movement. It is
entered here, referenced to the same datum as the average berm height.
D. Nondiffractive moins
541. The lengths of groins and short jetties are normally on the order
of the average width of the surf zone; wave diffraction produced by such
structures can be considered to be negligible, since in shallow water the
waves will arrive almost normal to the tip of the structure or will have

275
_.._..

4
already broken. Thus , typical groins used for shore projection and short
+
jetties should be treated as nondiffracting structures. -e
542. GENESIS distinguishes between groins (and je~ties) that produce or
do not produce wave diffraction. Model computation time associated with a

diffracting structure is much greater than for a nondifizacting structure;

therefore, the number of diffracting groins should be mir,imized. The diffrac.
tion option, starting at Line El, is mainly used to describe long jetties
(jetties with lengths on the order of several surf zone widths) and harbor
breakwaters that act as a long jetty by almost completely blocking longshore
sand transport; these types of structures extend well beyond the surf zone
where waves may arrive at a large oblique angle, resulting in a wide diffrac-
tion zone. They also block sand transport alongshore and, therefore, are
functionally equivalent to groins with regard to shoreline change.
543. Line D.1: INDG . Line D.1 asks whether there are groins and short
jetties on the calculation grid used in the particular simulation, setting the
flag INDG. The great majority of groins as well as jetties at small channels
do not extend beyond the average width of the surf zone; therefore, they
should be treated as nondiffracting structures that interrupt the movement of
sand alongshore. Bypassing of sand seaward around such structures is automat-
ically calculated by GENESIS. If the value 1 (“yes”) is placed at Line D.1,
then responses are required at Lines D.3-D.5. If there are no short (non-
diffracting) groins or jetties on the grid, a value of O (“no”) should be
placed at Line D.1, and no other questions beginning wizh the letter “D” need
to be answered. (If O is placed at Line D.1, Lines D.3-D.5 will not be read
by GENESIS, and values remaining there may be arbitrary. )
544. Line D.3: l’JNDG. Enter the number of nondiffracting groins and
jetties NNDG located on the grid. This number also includes structures that
may serve as a groin boundary condition on one or both lateral ends of the
grid.
545. Line D.4: IXNDG(I). Enter the grid cell numbers of nondiffract-
ing groins and jetties IXNDG(I) in order of increasing cell number. The
number of grid cell locations given here should equal t~.enumber of nondif-
fracting groins specified at Line D.3 (NNDG values).
546. Line D.5: YNDG(I). Enter the lengths of the nondiffracting
groins and jetties YNDG(.1) (as measured from the x-axis to the seaward tip of
the structure) in the order of cell number in which they occur (NNDG values in

276
increasing order of cell numbers corresponding to the locations gi’.c .: t

Line D.4).

E. Diffracting
(long) groins and Ietties .
547. Line El: IDG . If there are long jetties :. .

grid (i.e., structures extending past the breaking wave z~.~e ,

tively deep water for almost all wave conditions), they should be I...

diffracting structures, and the value 1 (“yes”) placed here in tl-, . ‘

If there are no such structures on the grid, including the boundaries, :...I
respond with the value O (“no”), and skip questions E.3-E.6. (If O is p.c..
at Line El, Lines E.3-E.6 will not be read by GENESIS, and values rernainin
there may be arbitrary.)
548. Line E.3: NDG . Enter the number of diffracting groins and

jetties NDG that are on the grid. This number includes structures -
serve as boundary conditions (at grid points 1 and N+l).
549. Line E.4: IXDG(I). Enter the grid cell numbers of diffract:...
groins and jetties IXDG(I) in order of increasing cell number. There si.c:.l
~
be the same number of grid cell locations as the number of diffracting ~-.-:1
and jetties specified at Line E.3 (NDG values from small to large cell

numbers) .
550. Line E.5: YDG (I ) . Enter the lengths of the diffracting gro:I-L.

and jetties YDG(I) as measured from the x-axis in the order of cell r.’:

which they occur (iVDG values from small to large cell numbers ~.o‘:

the locations given at Line E.4).

551. Line E.6: DDG (I ) . Enter the depths at the tips ..:
ing groins and jetties DDG(I) in the order of cell number in whickt ‘
(NDG values from small to large cell numbers corresponding to the ~c-.
given at Line E.4).
F. Groins/ ietties
552. Line F.1. This section requests general informa:~.~::;..
both nondiffracting and diffracting groins and jetties (and s’-”:e--
breakwaters) . If there are no groins or jetties on the c-<:.
entered at both Lines D 1 and E.I), then Lines F.2-F.5 I - ‘
there are groins of any type, responses to Lines F.2-F.3 :;J>: .. ... .. .LL
there are no groins or jetties on the grid, Lines F.2-F.5 wil rIO~ h rc-~. l,:;

GENESIS, and values remaining there may be arbitrary.)

277
 553. Line F.2: SLOPE2 . Groins impound

direction of drift, implying that the beach slope near a groin

sand on the side of predominant

is milder than
7
i
*
the equilibrium slope. An estimate of this slope SLOPE2 should be made by *
reference to measurements at the site or to other data. GENESIS uses this
value in calculation of sand bypassing around the seaward tips of groins and
jetties.
554. Line F.3: PERM (IL. Permeabilities PERM(I) of the groins and
jetties must be assigned. Permeabilities should be given in order of increas-
ing cell location of the structures as they appear on the grid, irrespective
of whether the structure is nondiffracting or diffracting.
555. The permeability coefficient empirically accounts for transmission
of sand through and over a groin. (Bypassing of sand around the seaward end
of groins is automatically calculated by GENESIS.) A permeability value of
1.0 implies a completely transparent groin, whereas a value of 0.0 implies a
high, impermeable groin that does not allow sand to pass through or over it.
556. Since a methodology does not presently exist to allow GENESIS or

the modeler to calculate groin permeability by a standard or objective

procedure, this quantity is best determined as part of model calibration. If
a shoreline reach has numerous groins of various construction types and states
of functioning, it is recommended that estimates of relative ~ermeabilitv be
given initially and then refined in the course of the model calibration by
observing the trend of shoreline change near the groins. As a rule of thumb,
an apparently fully functioning groin with a crest above mean sea level (MSL)
for most tides is assigned an initial permeability value in the range of 0.0
to 0.1, whereas a groin that has gaps or is overtopped during parts of the
tidal cycle may have a permeability in the range of 0.1 to 0.5. An effective
method of estimating relative groin permeability is to compare the condition
(number and width of gaps, thickness and height of groin) of groins on aerial
photographs of the model reach.
557. Lines F.4 and F.5: YG1. YGN. If a groin or jetty is located on a
boundary (grid cell number 1 or N+I), the distance from the shoreline outside
the grid to the seaward end of the structure YG1 and/or YGN must be specified
(called “yGl” and “y~~” in the main text). Since this location is “off the
grid, “ it must be given externally (by the modeler) and cannot be calculated.
This distance is used in the sand bypassing calculation for the structure in
situations where sand may be transported onto the grid.

278
~ Detached breakwaters
558. GENESIS treats a detached breakwater as a structure with two dif-
fracting ends. The tips of detached breakwaters can be placed at different

distanCes from the x-axis, and gap widths and breakwater lengths can also be
arbitrary if a line of segmented detached breakwaters is to be represented.
Generally speaking, detached breakwaters should be placed offshore at least as
far as the average wave breaker line, to simulate the full diffracting effect
of the detached breakwaters. If at any time-step the waves break seaward of a

detached breakwater, the wave height at the diffracting tip will be set equal
to the depth-limited wave height determined by the relation Hb = Db.
559. GENESIS Version 2.0 will terminate the simulation if formation of
a tombolo, i.e., the model will stop and issue a messge if the shoreline
reaches or comes close to the breakwater. It should also be noted that common
diffraction theories, including the one used in GENESIS, are technically
invalid if the structure is very short (a fraction of a wavelength) or for
distances from the breakwater less than about one wavelength. Placement of
detached breakwaters should be made carefully in light of these limitations.
560. Line G,l: IDB . If there are detached breakwaters on the model
grid, the value 1 (“yes”) of the flag IDB is entered here. If there are no
such structures on the grid, including the boundaries, answer with the value O
(“no”), and skip Lines G.3-G.9. (If the value O is placed at Line G.1, Lines
G.3-G.9 will not be read by GENESIS, and values remaining there may be
arbitrary.)
561. Line G.3: NDB . Enter the number of detached breakwaters NDB that
appear on the grid.
562. Lines G.4 and G.5: IDB1. IDBN. The flags IDB1 and IDBN tell

GENESIS if there are detached breakwaters crossing the boundaries (no = O; yes
=1). If a model boundary is placed across a detached breakwater, waves
diffracted by the tip of the breakwater located outside of the grid will not
be taken into account. Thus , such a structure will be regarded as semi-
infinite with only the tip of the breakwater lying within the grid to produce
diffraction.
563. The capability of placing detached breakwaters across grid boun-
daries should be used with caution. If a groin is not simultaneously located
on the boundary, GENESIS will apply the default pinned-beach boundary condi-
tion, which may not be appropriate in the shadow zone of the detached

279
breakwater. The true meaning of the pinned-beach boundary condition is ,,the

beach does not want to move”; if the pinned-beach boundary condition is

improperly used, it may incorrectly mean “the beach is not allowed to move.,,

564. line G.6: IXDB(I). Enter the grid cell numbers Of the tips Of

detached breakwaters IXDB(I) in ascending order of cell number. There should

be two values for each detached breakwater located entirely within the

calculation grid and one value for each additional detached breakwater

extending across the calculation boundary.

565. Line G.7: YDB (I ) . Enter the distances from the tips of the
breakwaters to the x-axis YDB(I) in ascending order of cell number. There
should be the same number of values as specified at Line G.6.
566. Line G.8: DDB (1 ) . Enter the depths DDB(I) at the tips of the
breakwaters in ascending order of cell number. There should be the same
number of values as specified at Line G.6.
567. Line G.9: TRANDB(II. Enter the value of the wave transmission
coefficient TRANDB(I) (called “KT” in the main text) for the individual
breakwaters (NDB values) in ascending order as the structures appear on the
grid. This empirical coefficient accounts for wave transmission through a
breakwater and by overtopping, and it must be evaluated either externally or
as part of the calibration process, similar to the case of groin/jetty
impermeability. The value of the wave transmission coefficient varies between
0.0 and 1.0, where the value 0.0 describes a high, impermeable breakwater with
no wave transmission through the structure by any means, and the value 1.0
describes a completely wave-transparent, ineffective structure.
H. Seawalls
568. A seawall constrains the allowable position of the shoreline
because the beach cannot erode landward of the wall. Formally, GENESIS can
describe only one seawall. However, noncontiguous sections of a seawall can
be represented by placing the number -9999 in the SEAWL input file along the
shore where seawalls are not present. Values of -9999 are assumed to place
the seawall at locations so far landward that the wall would never come into
play in the longshore transport and shoreline change calculations.
569. Line H.1: ISW . If there is one or more seawall sections along
the modeled beach, the value 1 (“yes”) is entered here for the flag I.SW. If
there are no seawalls, the value O (“no”) is entered, and Line H.3 can be
skipped. (If the value O is entered at Line H.1, Line H.3 will not be read by

280
GENESIS, and values remaining at Line H.3 may be arbitrary. ) If there are no
seawalls present, GENESIS will not read from the input file SEAWL and will
place the seawall at -9999 distance units as a default; values in the SEAWL
file may be arbitrary in this case since the file will not be read.
570. Line H.3: I.SWBEG, I.SWEND. As stated in the preceding two para-

graphs, if several seawall sections are present, they will be treated as a

single seawall but with the sections between them located far landward of the
shoreline. The grid cell numbers to be entered at this line correspond to the
beginning lSWBEG and ending ISWEND of the single, continuous seawall. The two
grid cell numbers are entered in ascending order. If ISWEND is set equal to
-1 at line H.3, internally GENESIS will set ISWEND = N, which is a convenient
default if all applications or variations for a project have a seawall running
from ISWBEG to N.
I. Beach fills
571. If more than one beach fill occurs, information must be entered in
the order of occurrence of the fills. Fills may overlap in time and location,
but information must be entered in the same order at each request. GENESIS
treats the fill as having the same grain size and berm height as the original
beach.
572. GENESIS does not operate by direct use of fill volume but through
the total distance of shoreline advance after the fill and beach profile have
been molded to an equilibrium shape by wave action. (This distance must be
specified by the modeler at Line 1.8.) GENESIS places the fill by advancing
the shoreline position in equal amounts at each time-step between the starting
and ending dates of the operation and within the cells defining the fill, as
specified at the START file line numbers described in the following para-
graphs. The fill is placed at each time-step specified even if wave condi-
tions are calm and shoreline change computations are not carried out.
573. Because GENESIS places fill by advancing the shoreline in equal
daily amounts over the duration of the nourishment operation, a single fill
advances uniformly over its longshore extent. A nonuniform advance over a
given reach can be simulated by specifying several fills of different amounts
on different sections of a total reach but placed within the same period.
574. Line 1,1: IBF . If one or more beach fills is placed during the
simulation period, a value of 1 (“yes”) should be entered for the flag IBF and

responses given at Lines 1.3-1.8. If there are no beach fills, a value of O

281
(“no”) should be entered, and the remaining questions in this subsection may
be disregarded. (If O is placed at Line 1.1, Lines 1.3-1.8 will not be read *
by GENESIS, and values remaining there may be arbitrary.)
575. Line 1.3: NBF . The number of beach fills NBF that occurs during

the simulation period is entered here.

576. Lines 1.4 and 1.5: BFDATS(I), BFDEND(I). The dates or time-steps
when placement of the fill(s) is begun BFDATS(I) and er.ded BFDEND(I) are
entered at these two lines, in chronological or increasing order from the
beginning dates or time-steps of the fills (NBF values, corresponding to
line 1.3). GENESIS keeps track of the date from the start of the simulation
(Line A.6), and, if the fills are specified in terms of dates, GENESIS begins
placing the fill on the beach at the date(s) specified.
577. Lines 1.6 and 1,7: IBFS(I), IBFE(I~. The grid cell numbers of
the starting IBFS(I) and ending IBFE(I) locations of the fills are entered at
Lines 1.6 and 1.7, respectively, in the same order as entered at Lines 1.4 and
1.5 (NBF values). The cell number where a particular fill is started must be
smaller than the cell number where it is ended. The fill is placed in all
cells between and including the starting and ending cells.
578. Line 1.8: YADD (I ~ . The amount of shoreline advance YADD(I) that
will be added to the existing shoreline by GENESIS between the beginning and
completion dates of the fill is given here. The distances of shoreline
advance should be entered in the same order as in Lines 1.4-1.7.
579. For a certain time period (on the order of weeks or months) after
placement of a fill, waves and currents will remold the material to an
equilibrium shape as determined by the grain size of the fill and the wave
conditions. Fine particles, if present, will move offshore and out of the
effective zone of longshore transport. Also , the berm of the initial fill may
be higher than that of the original and neighboring beach. In the initial
process of readjustment, therefore, the volume of the fill may decrease from
that which was initially emplaced. It is presently beyond the scope of
GENESIS to compute the volume of the fill remaining after the transient
readjustment period. The engineer operating GENESIS must judge conditions and
make an external calculation to estimate the aver~ge distar.ce the shoreline
will advance after the fill has adiusted. (The fill volume per unit length of
beach after equilibrium has been established can be calculated by multiplying
the horizontal distance of berm advance, Line 1.8, by the vertical distance

282
from the berm crest, Line C.2, to the depth of closure, Line C.3, i.e.,

~“@D (ABH+DC~S) .

Simple Configurations

580. A project may require many versions of the input files, particu-

larly START files, because this file contains most of the information specify-
ing project alternatives. As an example, Figure 133 shows a simple situation
involving multiple START files. If only two alternatives are considered in
the project, groins as one alternative and detached breakwaters as the other,
the modeler would construct two START files, possibly named START.GRO and
START.DBW. When he or she is ready to run GENESIS for the detached breakwater
alternative, the file START.DBW, together with the other input files with
extension .DBW would be used in the simulation, resulting in the corresponding
output files with the same extension. When the groin alternative is to be
run, the modeler would specify the extension .GRO to use START.GRO and other

I ~------------------- ~ ,-----..-. —
—-------- .-, ,__
START ~ START.GRO ~ START.DBW ; 1,
11

1,
FILES .______d ,._______-__________J !—_—
—–--._______
——–--; !_—

INPUT
FILES I__________
START.DBW i St- OR L. DB’V’.’!1, ~------” -------

I GENESIS I
J

v
OUTPUT ~ ~uTpT,DBw~
SHORC.DBW
FILES ,___________-_------J

: r--––––––– ----------: ,---—----..-_ ----__——

,,, ,__
CALC. ,,
,t \ SHORC.GROI SHORC.DBW ~ II
SHORE- .----- —...——---—----J ,__._.. . -—
___________
J ,__
LINES

Figure 133. File name extension controlling single stage simulation

283
 ,.:
a
.GRO files as input to GENESIS. The various input files employed may be saved ,*
under their original names or renamed together with the output files to *

document the process of evaluating the alternatives and results.

Time-Varyin~ Structure Configurations

581. In many modeling projects, structures are built, modified, or

destroyed during the course of a shoreline change simulation time period. The
,,
simulation must be performed in stages in such a case. A START file with the
initial configuration would run GENESIS until the time-step of the change in a
structure; the SHORC file (calculated shoreline) from this first stage would
~
then be copied to a SHORL file (initial shoreline) for the next stage of the
4
simulation, and another START file describing the new configuration would be
.*
used to continue. As an example, Figure 134 shows a situation involving two
stages of simulations.
582. During the first stage of simulation, the modeled beach contains
only one groin. Thus , a START file (possibly called START.lGR) that contains
only this structure is constructed. GENESIS is then run using this and other
input files with the same extension .lGR, resulting in three output files. At
the beginning of the second stage of simulation, another groin was added to
the modeled beach. This new configuration, and other conditions describing
this stage, is held in another START file, possibly called START.2GR. The
calculated shoreline at the end of stage 1 will then be copied to SHORL.2GR to
represent the initial shoreline for the second stage of simulation. GENESIS
is run again, using these and other input files with the extension .2GR.
583. In the illustrated example, the modeler chose to divide the total
simulation interval into two stages only. However, it is possible to divide
the interval into any number of stages. If the construction of the second
groin would cover a significant portion of time, it might have been better to
have introduced the structure with a very small length (or high permeability
depending on how the construction was performed). The length of the groin
could then be gradually extended (or specified as less permeable) in several
stages . The number of stages is, as usual, a compromise between calculation
accuracy and simulation time/effort that the modeler has to determine from his
or her engineering experience.

284
 FIRST
sTAG E SH~”;L.lG;, ~
START.lGR _lGR ~ ~
INPUT .) — -,7--- . . . . . . . . l..
/,,.’

GENESIS
L 1

FIRST T
,----------
STAGE { SE TUP, IGR i SHORC.lGR ~ OUT PT, IGR ~
l-i OUTPUT 1 1

a. First stage simulation

T -—----——
———
. . . . .. —..-.._—
STAG E (I
INPUT START.2GR SHORL.2GR ~ _____,2GR ! ~
–i I -; t..

T
[

GENESIS

SECOND
STAG E
OUTPUT
,. . . . . . . . ..zrs......
b. Second stage simulation

Figure 134. File name extension controlling multiple stage simulations

285
 584. This procedure can be chained for describing any number of modi-
fications in structure configurations and boundary conditions. Most computer
systems allow creation of a batch file to automate successive simulations.

Error tiessa~es

585. After all needed input files are prepared and available to be
called by GENESIS, the program can be run. At the beginning of a modeling
project, it is not uncommon and should not be unexpected to have data mismatch
errors, particularly in the START file. GENESIS provides a number of error
and warning messages that give the user recovery information for the more
common mistakes and notification of potentially undesirable conditions en-
countered during a simulation. These messages are printed to the screen and
the output file SETUP. Error and warning messages together with suggested
recovery procedures are discussed in the following paragraphs.
586. One strategy that has been found useful for reducing errors is to
introduce project complexity in the START file in stages, testing (running)
the model for a few time-steps at each stage. For example, if the project has
several structures and beach fills, the START file would first be constructed
with only the boundary conditions and tested. Next, perhaps only nondiffract-
ing groins would be placed on the internal grid, if there are such structures.
Then, diffracting structures would be introduced. Finally, after successful
testing at each stage, the beach fills would be placed in the START file. In
this way, errors can be more easily isolated.
587. An error message gives information about a “fatal” error, that is,
an error detected that would stop the calculation. On the data entry level,
these errors might be caused by inconsistencies in specified quantities (for
example, specifying three groins but only giving positions for two) or a
serious problem in the calculation (for example, running many high waves at
extremely oblique incident wave angles). GENESIS is based on physical
assumptions and calculation techniques that have limitations. If these
limitations are exceeded, the simulation may fail or give an erroneous result.
Experience with GENESIS in a variety of projects indicates it will perform
satisfactorily if prudence is taken to represent realistic wave, structure,
and shoreline position conditions.

286
 Messages are given in alphabetical order in bold capital letters,

i followed by a short explanation and suggested error-recovery procedure. For

;
●
several of the errors, more than one remedial measure is suggested. It is up
4
to the modeler to chose the appropriate alternative that should provide the
best representation of the true configuration. Only those values subject to
!
correction are reported in the error recovery procedure. In the explanatory
I
$ figures, cells of special importance are marked with their number.
b
589. For a more extensive discussion of the respective errors, please
refer to Appendix C in the Technical Reference. The messages given in the
I following paragraphs are repetitive to avoid cross-references.
590. ERROR . BAD BALANCE IN WAVE INPUT PARAMETERS CAUSING DLTZ TO BE
NEGATIVE. Reason for error: The depth of longshore sand transport is nega-
tive. This condition may occur if the input offshore wave data was manipulat-
ed, for example, to investigate model sensitivity, the effect of extreme
conditions, or for simulation of hypothetical cases. Remedial measure:
Change the wave height or period in the WAVES file to represent physically
reasonable waves.
591. ERROR . BEACH FILL IS OUTSIDE CALCULATION GRID. Reason for error:
The grid cell numbers for a beach fill, as specified on Lines 1.6 and 1.7 in
the START file, fall outside the subsection of the beach presently being
modeled as specified on Line A.4. The error may also occur as a result of a
mistake in entering the cell numbers, e.g. if 84 instead of 48 is entered and
the total beach consists of only 50 calculation cells. Remedial measure: If
the entire fill lies outside the subsection of beach, the error is remedied by

omitting corresponding values on Lines 1.4-1.8 in the START file. If the fill

is only partially outside the subsection of beach, the error is remedied by

setting IBFS on Line 1.6 equal to the grid cell number where the simulated
subsection starts, if the left side of the beach fill is outside the grid, or
by setting IBF,E equal to the grid cell number where the simulated subsection
ends, if the right side of the beach fill is outside the grid. Figure 135
illustrates the three types of illegal fill specifications and the appropriate
corrections. As only a subsection, comprising N = 8 cells, of the total beach
is included in the simulation, the total number of cells for the entire grid
is denoted by NN.
592. The two examples with NN = 20, ISSTART = 6, and N = 8 in Figure
135 are characterized by: (a) illegal configuration; NBF = 3; IBFS = 4, 11,

287
I

..
Y
b.

—
— E
% %
— — — — —

-x
7 11 14 16

Simulated
subsection

a. Illegal beach-fill specification

-..
Y

,’

.,.

—
—
r, — — .- -. .-
-- —
— 33 % E % .-. — —
— — — E — —
— —

— — —x
7 11 14 16 18 NN

Simulated
subsection

b. Corrected beach-fill specification

Figure 135. Specification of beach fills

288
16; IBFE = 7, 14, 18; and (b) corrected configuration; NBF = 2; IBFS = 6, 11;

IBFE= i’, 13.

593. ERROR. BOTH SEMI-INFINITE DETACHED BREAKWATER AND A DIFFRACTING

GRoIN ON LEFT-HAND BOUNDARY NOT ALLOWED. Reason for error: A detached
breakwater is specified on Line G.4 in the START file to cross the left-hand

boundary, and, at the same time, a diffracting groin is located in cell

n~ber 1 on Line E.4 in the START file. Remedial measure: Do any of the

three alternatives: (a) replace the diffracting groin with a nondiffracting

groin; (b) extend the diffracting groin to attach to the detached breakwater,
specify that the detached breakwater does not cross the left-hand boundary by
setting IDBI = O on Line G.4 in the START file, and at the same time specify

that the detached breakwater starts in cell number 1 on Line C.6 in the START
file; or (c) move the diffracting groin so that it will no longer be inside
the detached breakwater, which means that lXDG(l) on Line E.4 in the START
file must be greater than or equal to lXDB(l) on Line G.6. Figure 136 illus-
trates the error and possible remedial measures.
594. The four examples in Figure 136 are characterized by: (a) illegal
configuration; INDG = O; IDG = 1; IXDG = 1; YDG = 50; IDBI = 1; IXDB = 3; YDB

- 70; (b) corrected configuration; INDG = 1; IXNDG = 1; YNDG = 50; IDG= O;

IDBI = 1; IXDB = 3; YDB = 70; (c) corrected configuration; INDG = O; IDG = 1;

IXDG = 1; YDG = 70; IDBI = O; IXDB = 1, 3; YDB = 70, 70; and (d) corrected
configuration; INDG = O; IDG = 1; IXDG = 3; YDG = 50; IDBI = 1; IXDB = 3;

YDB = 70.

595. ERROR . BOTH SEMI-INFINITE DETACHED BREAKWATER AND A DIFFELiCTING

GROIN ON RIGHT-HAND BOUNDARY NOT ALLOWED. Reason for error: A detached
breakwater is specified on Line G.5 in the START file to cross the right-hand
boundary, and, at the same time, a diffracting groin is located in cell number
N+l on Line E.4 in the START file. Remedial measure: Do any of the three
alternatives : (a) replace the diffracting groin with a nondiffracting groin;
(b) extend the diffracting groin to attach detached breakwater, specify that
the detached breakwater does not cross the right-hand boundary by setting
IDBN = O on Line G.5 in the START file, and at the same time specify that the

detached breakwater ends in cell number N+l on Line G.6 in the START file; or
(c) move the diffracting groin so that it will no longer be inside the
detached breakwater by specifying that the diffracting groin is located in the
same cell that the breakwater begins, which means that IXDG(NDG) (last

289
 Y

—
—

—
—
— — —
— — —

x
1 N 1 N

s. Illegal configuration b. Corrected configuration

(alternative 1)
Y

((

—
—

1
I I LX
N

c. Corrected configuration d. Corrected configuration

(alternative 2) (alternative 1)

Figure 136. Placement of groin and breakwater on boundary

290
 on Line E.4 in the START file must be less than or equal to
diffracting gro:n)
detached breakwater tip in the simulation reach) on
IXDB(NDB*2) (last
Line G.6. Fig,~Te 136 illustrates the corresponding error on the left-hand

boundary and pcssible remedial measures that are easily translated to the

right-hand hour.?zry.

596. ERROR . DETACHED BREAKWATER CAN ONLY CONNECT TO A GROIN AT THE

GROIN TIP. Reason for error: A detached breakwater is connected to a

diffracting groin Other than at its tip. Remedial measure: Move the detached

breakwater tip co the end of the groin or move either of the two structures to

separate them. Figure 137 illustrates the error and a possible remedial
measure.
597. The two examples in Figure 137 are characterized by: (a) illegal
configuration; YDG = 70; YDB = 50, 50;and (b) corrected configuration; YDG
- 70; YDB = 70, 50.
598. ERROR . DETACHED BREAKWATER ENDING ON OPEN LEFT-HAND BOUNDARY NOT
ALLOWED. Reason for error: A breakwater tip is located in cell number 1 as
specified on Line G.6 in the START file. Remedial measure: Either consider
the detached breakwater as being semi-infinite by setting lDBI = 1 on Line G.4

Y Y

)))
-

— —

x -x
1 N 1 N

a. Illegal configuration b, Corrected configuration

Figure 137. Placement of connecting groin and breakwater

291
in the START file ~ specify the first cell number to be 2 or higher, as given
on Line G.6 and setting IDB1 = O on Line G.4 in the START file. Figure 138
illustrates the error and possible remedial measures.
599. The three examples in Figure 138 zre char~cterized by: (a) ille-
gal configuration; IDB1 = O; IXDB = 1, 5; (b) correcte~ configuration; IDB1

= 1; IXDB = 5; and (c) corrected configuration; IDB1 = O; IXDB = 2, 5.

600. ERROR . DETACHED BREAKWATER ENDING ON OPEN RIGHT-HAND BOUNDARY NOT

ALLOWED. Reason for error: A breakwater tip is specified in cell number N+l
on Line G.6 in the START file. Remedial measure: Either consider the
detached breakwater as being semi-infinite by setting IDBN = 1 on Line G.5 in
the START file ~ specify the last cell number to be ?;or less as given on
Line G.6 and setting IDBN = O on Line G.4 in the START file. Figure 138
illustrates the corresponding error for the left-hand boundary and possible
remedial measures, which are easily translated for the right-hand boundary.
601. ERROR . DETACHED BREAKWATER TIP OUTSIDE CALCULATION GRID. Reason
for error: The grid cell numbers for a detached breakwater, as specified on
Line G.6 in the START file fall outside the subsection of the beach presently
being modeled as specified on Line A.4. Remedial measure: If only one end of
the breakwater is outside the modeled subsection of beach, remove this grid
cell number from Line G.6 and the corresponding distance from x-axis and depth
on Lines G.7 and G.8, respectively. In addition, the detached breakwater has
to be considered as being semi-infinite by setting IDBI = 1 on Line G.4 or

IDBN = 1 on Line G.5 in the START file. If the entire detached breakwater is
outside the modeled subsection of beach, the corresponding transmission
coefficient as specified on Line G.9 must also be removed. Figure 139
illustrates the three types of illegal breakwater specifications and the
appropriate corrections. As only a subsection, comprising N = 8 cells, of the
total beach is included in the simulation, the total number of cells for the
entire grid is denoted by NN.
602. The two examples with NN = 20, ISSTART = 6, and N = 8 in Fig-
ure 139 are characterized by: (a) illegal configuration; NDB = 3; IDBl = O;

IDBN = O; IXDB = 2, 7, 11, 17, 18, 20;and (b) corrected configuration; NDB =
2; IDB1 = 1; IDBN= 1; IXDB = 7, 11.

603. ERROR . DIFFRACTING GROIN OUTSIDE CALCULATION GRID. Reason for

error: The grid cell number for a diffracting groin, as specified on Line E.4
in the START file fall outside the subsection of the beach presently being

292
., Y
Y

= = = =

— —
— —

— — — — — —
— — — — — —

— -x — — — —x

1 N 1 N

a. Illegal configuration b. Corrected configuration

(alternative 1)

— — —
— — —

—
—
— —
— — —
— — —

x
1 N

c. Corrected configuration
(alternative 2)

Figure 138. Specification of detached breakwater on boundary

293
 —
—
—
—

—
—

— — — —
— —
—

-x
12 67
Simulated
subsection

a. Illegal configuration

= —
— —
—
—
— — —
— — —
— —

— —
— — —
— — — .
— —

1 7 11

Simulated
subsection

b. Corrected configuration

Figure 139. Specification of detached breakwaters

294
modeled as specified on Line A.4. Remedial measure: Omit the grid cell

number from Line E.4 and the corresponding length and depth on Lines E.5 and

E.6, respectively. In addition, the number of diffracting groins NDG on

Line E.3 has to be corrected (decreased). If there are no more diffracting

groins inside the subsection of beach, set IDG = O on Line El.

604. ERROR . DIFFRACTING STRUCTURES OVERLAP. Reason for error: Either

a diffracting groin is specified on Line E.4 in the START file to be located

in a cell between the two tips of a detached breakwater as specified on
Line G.6, u two detached breakwaters overlap. Remedial measure: If a

diffracting groin is placed inside a detached breakwater, the error is

remedied by any of three alternatives: (a) replace the diffracting groin with

a nondiffracting groin by transferring the appropriate values from Section E

(Diffracting Groins and Jetties) to Section D (Nondiffracting Groins) in the
START file; (b) extend the diffracting groin to attach to the detached break-
water and at the same time divide the detached breakwater into two detached
breakwaters, specified on Lines G.3 and G.6-G.8, each attaching to the tip of
the groin, together constituting a T-groin; ~ (c) move the diffracting groin

so that it will no longer be inside the detached breakwater as specified on

Line G.6 in the START file. If two detached breakwaters overlap, move one or
both detached breakwaters to make the two structures end at the same cell
wall, specified on Line G.6. Figure 140 illustrates the illegal case of two
overlapping detached breakwaters and one possible correction.
605. The two examples in Figure 140 are characterized by: (a) illegal
configuration; IXDB = 3, 7, 6, 9; or (b) corrected configuration; lXDB = 3, 6,
6, 9. Figure 141 illustrates the illegal case of a diffracting groin inside
of a detached breakwater and the appropriate corrections.
606. The four examples in Figure 141 are characterized by: (a) illegal
configuration; IXDG= 5; YDG= 50; NDB = 1; IXDB = 3, 6; YDB = 70, 70;

(b) corrected configuration; IXNDG = 5; YNDG = 50; NDB = 1; IXDB = 3, 6;

YDB = 70, 70; (c) corrected configuration; IXDG= 5; YNDG= 70; NDB = 2;

IXDB = 3, 5, 5, 6; YDB = 70, 70, 70, 70; and (d) corrected configuration;
lXDG = 6; YDG = 50; NDB = 1; IXDB = 3, 6; YDB = 70, 70.

607. ERROR e END X-COORDINATE OF SEAWALL MUST BE GREATER THAN THE START
X-COORDINATE . Reason for error: ISWBEG is specified to be greater than
lSWEND on Line H.3 in the START file. Remedial measure: Correct the numbers
on Line H.3.

295
 Y Y

—
—

= = =

—
— — — —

— -x — —x
1 3 67 N 1. 3 7 N

a. Illegal Configuration b. Corrected configuration

Figure 140. Overlapping detached breakwaters

608. ERROR FOUND IN DEPIN. FILES DEPTH (AND WAVES) CONTAIN TOO FEW
VALUES . Reason for error: An external wave transformation model is used to
calculate the nearshore wave conditions along the nearshore reference line, as
specified on Line B.3 in the START file. The end of the DEPTH file is prema-
turely encountered. Remedial measure: Make sure the data files contain four
lines of header. If so, add more values to the DEPTH file, correct (increase)
the number of shoreline calculation cells per wave model element on Line B.5,
correct (decrease) the value of total number of calculation cells on Line A.3,
~ correct the grid cell numbers where the calculation starts and/or ends on
Line A.4.
609. ERROR FOUND IN KDGODA. KD CALCULATION DID NOT CONVERGE. Reason
for error: The search procedure for the diffracted breaking wave conditions
has not converged within 20 iterations. If the error persists, it probably
signals a significant flaw in the wave, depth, or structure configuration
input data.

296
 Y

— —
— — —

1- x N
1 6 N 13 6

a. Illegal configuration b. Corrected configuration

(alternative 1)

Y Y

— —

((( ))

— —

— — —
— — — —

i
N
-x
1 3
i
6
-I N
L x

c. Corrected configuration d. Corrected configuration

(alternative 2) (alternative 3)

Figure 141. Diffracting groin inside detached breakwater

297
 610. ERROR FOUND IN SHOIN. FILE SHORN CONTAINS TOO FEW VALUES. Reason
for error: The end of the SHORM file is prematurely encountered. Remedial
measure: Make sure the data file contains four lines of header. If so, add
more vzlues to the file, change the value of the total number of calculation
cells on Line A.3, or change the grid cell numbers where the calculation

starts and/or the value of the calculation cells on Line ~.4.

611. ERROR FOUND IN SHOIN. FILE SHORL CONTAINS TOO FEW VALUES. Reason

for error: The end of the SHORL file is prematurely encountered. Remedial

measure: Make sure the data file contains four lines of header. lf so, add

more values to the file, change the value of the total number of calculation
cells on Line A.3, or change the grid cell numbers where the calculation
starts and/or the value of the calculation cells on Line A.4.
612. ERROR FOUND IN SWLIN. FILE SEAWL CONTAINS TOO FEW VALUES. Reason
for error: The end of the SEAWL file is prematurely encountered. Remedial
measure: Make sure the data file contains four lines of header. If so, add
more values to the file, change the value of the total number of calculation
cells on Line A.3, ~ change the grid cell numbers where the calculation
starts and/or the value of the calculation cells on Line A.4.
613. ERROR FOUND IN WAVIN. KEY NOT FOUND IN NEARSHORE WAVE FILE.
Reason for error: An external wave transformation model is used to calculate
the nearshore wave conditions along the nearshore reference line, as specified
on Line B.3 in the START file. An offshore wave identification key was
computed from an event read from the WAVES file but was not found in the NSWAV
file. Remedial measure: Identify the responsible offshore wave event by
running the program NSTRAN (discussed in Part VI), and then perform the
necessary nearshore wave transformation simulation or simulations.
614. ERROR . GROIN CONNECTED TO A DETACHED BREAKWATER MUST BE CI.ASS-
IFIED AS A DIFFWCTING GROIN. Reason for error: A detached breakwater is
attached to a nondiffracting groin. Remedial measure: Replace the nondif-
fracting groin with a diffracting groin by transferring the appropriate values
from Section D (Nondiffracting Groins) to Section E (Diffracting Groins and
Jetties) in the START file.
615. ERROR . GROIN NEXT TO GRID BOUNDARY. Reason for error: A groin
is placed one calculation cell away from either end of the numerical grid.
Remedial measure: The error is remedied by any of four alternatives:
(a) move the groin to the end of the grid; (b) move the groin at least one

298
cell away from the end of grid; (c) move the end of the grid to the location
of the groin; u (d) move the end of the grid at least one cell away from the
groin. Figure 142 illustrates errors appearing near the left-hand boundary
and possible remedial measures, which are easily translated to the right-hand
boundary. As only a subsection, comprising N = 5 cells, of the total beach is
included in the simulation, the number of cells for the entire grid is denoted
by NN.

Y Y Y

1 3
Simulated
subsection

a. Illegal
configuration
8 NN
-9x I
1 3

Simulated
subsection

b. Corrected
configuration
8 NN
-x

c.
4

Simulated
subsection

Corrected
configuration
8 NN
-x

Y Y

-x .
5 8 NN 1 8 NN

Simulated Simulated
subsection subsection

d. Corrected e. Corrected
configuration configuration

Figure 142. Groin next to grid boundary

299
 616. The five examples in Figure 142 are characterized by: (a) illegal
configuration; ISSTART = 3; IXNDG = 4; (b) corrected configuration; ISSTART

= 3; IXNDG = 3; (c) corrected configuration; ISSTA.RT = 4; IXNDG = 4; (d) cor-

rected configuration; ISSTART = 3; IXNDG = 5; and (e) corrected configuration;
ISSTART = 1; IXNDG = 3.

617. ERROR . GROINS MUST BE SEPARATED BY AT LEAST TWO CALCULATION

CELLS . Reason for error: Two groins are placed with only one calculation
cell between them. Remedial measure: Move one of the groins at least one
cell farther away from the other groin. Figure 143 illustrates the error and
an appropriate correction.
618. The two examples in Figure 143 are characterized by: (a) illegal
configuration; IXNDG = 4, 5; and(b) corrected configuration; IXNDG = 4, 6.

619. ERROR IN CALCULATION OF BREAKING WAVE HEIGHT. THE WAVE DID NOT
BREAK . Reason for error: The search procedure to obtain the undiffracted
breaking wave conditions has not converged within 20 iterations. Remedial
measure: Change what is probably an unphysical wave height with respect to
the nearshore depth (or vice versa). If the error persists, it probably
signals a significant flaw in the wave, depth, or structure configuration
input.

Y Y

—
—
. — — — —
— — — —

-x —x
1 4 N 1 4 6 N
a. Illegal configuration b. Corrected configuration

Figure 143. Groins too close together

300
 620. ERIOR . INCORRECT FORMAT FOR BEACH FILL DATES. Reason for error:
For BFDATS and/or BFDATE entered on Lines 1.4 and 1.5, respectively, the
number of the day is greater than 31 or the number of the month is greater
than 12. Remedial measure: Make sure each date is entered as one number in
the format YYMMDD.
621. ERROR . INCORRECT FORMAT OF SIMULATION START DATE. Reason for
error: For SIMDATS entered on Line A.6 in the START file, the number of the
day is greater than 31 or the number of the month is greater than 12.
Remedial measure: Make sure the date is entered as one number in the format
YYMMDD .
622. ERROR . SEAWALL IS OUTSIDE CALCULATION GRID. Reason for error:
The grid cell numbers for a seawall ISWBEG and/or ISWEND, as specified on Line
H.3 in the START file, fall outside the subsection of the beach presently
being modeled as specified on Line A.4. Remedial measure: If the entire
seawall lies outside the subsection of beach, the error is remedied by setting
1.!T4
= O, indicating there is no seawall present. If the seawall is only
partially outside the subsection of beach, the error is remedied by setting
ISWBEG on Line H.3 equal to the grid cell number where the simulated
subsection starts, if the left side of the seawall is outside the grid, or by
setting ISWEND equal to the grid cell number where the simulated subsection
ends, if the right side of the seawall is outside the grid.
623. ERROR . SIMULATION ENDING DATE MUST BE GREATER THAN THE STARTING
DATE . Reason for error: The ending date of the simulation SIMDATE as

specified on Line A.7 in the START is earlier than the starting date of the
simulation SIMDATS on Line A.6. Remedial measure: Make sure both dates are
given as one number in the format YYMMDD.
624. ERROR . SMALL GROIN OUTSIDE CALCULATION GRID. Reason for error:
The grid cell number for a nondiffracting groin, as specified on Line D.4 in
the START file, fall outside the subsection of the beach presently being
modeled as specified on Line A.4. Remedial measure: Omit the grid cell
number from Line D.4 and the corresponding length on Line D.5. In addition,
the number of nondiffracting groins NNDG on Line E.3 has to be corrected
(decreased). If there are no more nondiffracting groins inside the subsection
of beach, set INDG = O on Line D.1.
625. ERROR . TOO MANY BEACH FILLS. Reason for error: The number of
beach fills NBF on Line 1.3 is greater than the maximum allowed number as

301
specified in the PARAMETER statement in GENESIS. At present, the number is
set to 50 for mainframe installations and to 10 for PC versions. Remedial
measure: Reduce NBF accordingly. As NBF is changed, corresponding changes
must be introduced on Lines 1.4 and 1.5. The number of beach fills can be
reduced by splitting up the beach in portions and then performing the simula-

tions for one portion of the beach at a time,

626. ERROR . TOO MANY DETACHED BREAKWATERS. Reason for error: The
number of detached breakwaters NDB on Line G.3 is greater than the maximum

allowed number as specified in the PARAMETER statement in GENESIS. At

present, the number is set to 20 for mainframe installations and to 15 for PC
versions. Remedial measure: Reduce NDB accordingly. As NDB is changed, cor-

responding changes must be introduced on Lines G.4 to G.9. The number of

structures can be reduced by splitting up the beach in portions and then
performing the simulations for one portion of the beach at a time.
627. ERROR . TOO MANY DIFFWCTING GROINS. Reason for error: The
number of diffracting groins NDG on Line E.3 is greater than the maximum
allowed number as specified in the PARAMETER statement in GENESIS. At
present, the number is set to 20 for mainframe installations and to 15 for PC
versions. Remedial measure: Reduce NDG accordingly. As NDG is changed,
corresponding changes must be introduced on Lines E.4 to E.6. The number of
structures can be reduced by splitting up the beach in portions and then
performing the simulations for one portion of the beach at the time.
628. ERROR . TOO MANY INTERMEDIATE PRINT-OUTS REQUESTED. Reason for
error: The number of requested print-outs NOUT on Line A.8 in the START file
is greater than the maximum allowed number as specified in the PARAMETER
statement in GENESIS. At present, the number is set to 30 for mainframe
installations and to 15 for PC versions. Remedial measure: Reduce NOUT
accordingly.
629. ERROR . TOO MANY NON-DIFFRACTING GROINS, Reason for error: The
number of nondiffracting groins NNDG on Line D.3 is greater than the maximum

allowed number as specified in the PARAMETER statement in GENESIS. At

present, the number is set to 50 for mainframe installations and to 40 for PC
versions. Remedial measure: Change NNDG accordingly. As NNDG is changed,
corresponding changes must be introduced on Lines D.4 and D.5. The number of
structures can be reduced by splitting up the beach in portions and then
performing the simulations for one portion of the beach at a time.

302
 630. ERROR. TOO MANY SHORELINE CELLS. Reason for error: The number

of shoreline cells alongshore NN on Line A.3 in the START file is greater than
the maximm allowed number as specified in the PARAMETER statement in GENESIS.
At present, the number is set to 600 for mainframe installations and to 100
for PC versions. Remedial measure: Reduce NN accordingly.
631. ERROR . WAVE DATA FILE STARTS LATER THAN THE SIMULATION. Reason
for error: The simulation starts later than the starting date of the wave
data file as specified on Lines A.6 and B.8. Remedial measure: Make sure the

date when the simulation starts SIMDATS is later than or the same as the date
when the wave file starts WDATS. The respective dates must be given as one
number in the format YYMMDD.
632. ERROR . WRONG VALUE OF “ICONV”. Reason for error: A number other
than 1 (meters) or 2 (feet) is given for the specification of input units
ICONV . Remedial measure: Change ICONV accordingly.

Warninz Messages

633. Warnings are given if a potentially undesirable condition is

detected in the course of calculation. One of the more common warnings is
that the stability parameter STAB (called Rs in the main text) has exceeded
the value 5.0 during a particular time-step (see Part II). As opposed to
errors, warning messages will not stop the model calculation. The messages
contain information for the modeler to determine the seriousness of the
problem, but it is up to the modeler to remedy the cause of the warning or
decide not to change the model configuration.
634. WARNING. INPUT WAVE ALREADY BROKEN. Reason for warning: An
external wave transformation is used as specified on Line B.3 in the START
file. The wave height on the reference line exceeds the depth-limited wave
height. Remedial measure: Either decrease the input wave height in the WAVES
file or increase the reference depth in the DEPTH file.
635. WARNING . SHORELINE CHANGE RESULTING FROM LONG Time-step IS _ IN
CELL NO. _. Reason for warning: GENESIS uses two independent algorithms for
calculating the alongshore distribution of sand transport rates. These algo-
rithms should, of course, give the same transport rate. However, for large
values of the stability parameter or due to the presence of detached break-
waters, especially if they are transmissive, the two algorithms may give

303
slightly different results. The warning is issued if, at any cell alongshore,
the difference in the two calculated transport rates is greater than
0.0005 m3/sec. At the end of the simulation, the accumulated error, in terms
of shoreline change, is presented on the screen and in the SETUP file.
Remedial measure: Decrease the stability ratio, which in turn is done by
decreasing the time-step DT on Line A.5, by increasing the grid cell size DX
on Line A.2, u by decreasing the wave height, either for specific values in
the WAVES file or universally on Line B.1 in the START file. The waves should
only be manipulated, for example, to investigate model sensitivity, the effect
of extreme conditions or in hypothetical simulations. Extremely high angles
of wave incidence may also produce this error.
636. WARNING THE STABILITY PARAMETER IS _. Reason for error: The
value of the stability parameter Rs is greater than 5 for at least one grid

point. Remedial measure: Either decrease the time-step DT at Line A.5 g

increase the grid cell size DX at Line A.3. Normally the time-step is
reduced, at the cost of longer simulations, since considerable effort is
involved in developing a grid.
637. WARNING . UNPHYSICAL DEEPWATER WAVE STEEPNESS. Reason for error:
The input offshore wave data may be manipulated, for example, to investigate
model sensitivity, or the effect of extreme conditions. This message is
issued if waves are specified to have a steepness HO/LO exceeding 0.142.
GENESIS checks that the offshore wave steepness does not exceed the value of
0.142, and, if it does, reduces the deepwater wave height to satisfy this
condition. Remedial measure: Decrease the wave height, either for specific
values in the WAVES file or universally on Line B.1 in the START file, ~
increase the input wave period in the WAVES file.

Example Configurations

638. When working with GENESIS the first few times, the unexperienced
modeler will find it a bit difficult to keep in mind what activities are
located in cells and on cell walls, respectively. To remedy this problem,
Figures 144 and 145 gives a comprehensive overview of the available coastal
protection elements and how they are specified in the START file.

304
 Y

— — — — — —
— —

J_LLLli
— —

-1-, x
1 4 9 14 N

IXNDG = 4, N+l IXDB = 3, 9, 14 IDB1 = 1

YNDG = 150, 170 YDB = 200, 220, 200 IDBN = O

Figure 144. Specification of non-diffracting groins

and detached breakwaters

((( ))1

—
— —
— —
— — — % E —
m —

— — —x
4 7 11 14 17 N

IXDG = 4, N+l ISWBEG= 7 IBFS =14

IXDB =4,8 ISWEND = 11 IBFE = 17

Figure 145. Specification of diffracting groins,

seawalls, and beach fills

305
 PART VIII: INTERPRETATION AND PRESENTATION OF GENESIS RESULTS

Evaluation of Calibration and VsrificzEion Simulations

639. As described in the Technical Reference, calibratio~ refers to the

procedure of determining values of adjustable coefficients that allow the
model to reproduce changes in shoreline position measured over a certain time
interval. The term verification refers to the procedure of applying the model
with the coefficient values determined in the calibration to reproduce changes
measured over a time interval different from the calibration interval. suc-
cessful verification is taken to indicate that model predictions are indepen-
dent of the simulation interval. In this procedure, it is assumed that
project conditions are known through time. Therefore, the modeler must be
aware of significant changes in the physical situation that might require
changes in the model configuration or invalidate extension of the calibration
results to the verification period. For example, if boundary conditions
change between the calibration and verification periods, such as might be
caused by extension of a jetty, these changes have to be incorporated in the
verification. Similarly, if the sediment supply at the beach is nearly
exhausted as compared with the calibration period that occurred, say, prior to
the verification period, the value of the transport coefficient KI determined
in the calibration will probably be inappropriate, requiring a second calibra-
tion for the more modern period. In general, it is recommended to verify in
the most recent period possible.
640. Model predictions are conveniently, although somewhat subjective-
ly, compared by graphical means. To provide an objective measure of goodness
of fit, GENESIS calculates a single number called the “Calibration/
Verification Error” expressing the average absolute difference between
calculated and measured shoreline positions at each grid point. However, as
judgment of the goodness of fit in minimizing the discrepancy between calcu-
lated and measured shoreline positions may be biased positively or negatively
for some portions of the beach than for others (for example, more weighting
given to a beach with residential development as compared with a park with no
development), an average mathematically based criterion must be checked by
visual inspection of shoreline position. In such a case, the calibration/-

306
Iiliw verification effort might focus on reproducing as accurately as possible
*’
shoreline changes along what are considered to be sensitive portions of the
we
beach at the expense of good average agreement for the whole modeled reach.
641. Although the general aim of shoreline modeling is to simulate

long-term change in shoreline position, tracking of volumetric changes often

serves as a valuable and sensitive tool in the calibration/verification
procedure. In addition, the performance of beach-fill operations is often

evaluated in terms of volwetric changes rather than shoreline position

change, and sand bypassing projects directly involve longshore sand transport
rates. Gravens (1989, 1990) describes a GENESIS study involving bypassing at
proposed entrance channel jetties in which calculated net and gross transport
.x,
-E. rates were essential in evaluating in the project alternatives. A case study
4} documented in Part VIII of the Technical Reference gives extensive discussion
on use of volumetric changes as a means of optimizing model parameters as well
as in interpreting and evaluating modeling results in a detached breakwater
project (see also, Hanson and Kraus (1991b) for a summary and further informa-
tion on the case study).
642. In simulations involving long time intervals, the available wave
data may not span the full simulation period. Instead, a shorter wave data
file may be used and repeated. However, because the wave climate changes over
time, the available wave data set may better represent the wave climate that
existed during certain periods than other periods. To some extent, expected
changes in wave conditions may be represented by adjusting the wave height and
direction using the parameters HCNGF, ZCNGF, and ZCNGA as specified in the
START file. Therefore, it may be necessary to use different values of these
parameters for the verification period than were used for the calibration
period. In special cases, other input parameter values may have to be altered
in order to obtain good representation by GENESIS of shoreline change and
longshore transport rates in a particular time period.
643. The problem of determining a representative wave data set for a
verification interval was clearly demonstrated in the case study for Lakeview
Park, Lorain, Ohio, as presented in the Technical Reference. Figure 146 plots
measured volumetric changes within the study area using the October 1977
volume as reference. Because the volumetric change varied significantly with
season, only the fall season values are displayed. Resources pertaining to
this pedagogic study allowed development of only a l-year record of wave data.

307
 Ott Apr Ott Apr Ott
1771 78 I 79
Date (month/year)

Figure 146. Volume changes at Lakeview Park, Lorain, Ohio

Also, aerial photographs showed that the length of the groin on the eastern
boundary of the project and model grid changed over the time period studied.
Therefore, it was doubtful that the same wave conditions that resulted in a
net gain of about 4,300 cu yd of sand calculated for the calibration period
would likely produce a net loss of about 300 cu yd for the verification period
if all other input parameters were left unchanged.
644. Thus , in the modeling of this project, the distance YG1, which to
a large extent controls the gated boundary condition at the east boundary and
was specified in the START file, was indicated to be different for the
calibration and verification periods, as determined from measurements of
shoreline position and groin length on aerial photographs. In addition, the
verification indicated that the value of the Wave Height Change Factor HCNGF
should to be set to 1.1, resulting in a 10-percent increase in offshore wave
height, to obtain good agreement between measured and calculated volumetric
change as well as shoreline position. As seen from Figure 146, the agreement
between the measured and the calculated volumetric changes was very good, as
was the case for calculated shoreline positions, which is illustrated in the
Technical Reference.

308
 Variability in Coastal Processes

problem Of nearshore variability

645. Incident waves vary with many scales in space and time, and

sediment particles of various sizes and shapes move along and across the shore

controlled by laws that are not well known. The sediment is transported in

complex three-dimensional circulation patterns of various spatial and time

scales that contain a substantial degree of randomness caused by turbulence in
the water motion. The beach and back-beach also exhibit distinct textural
properties that vary alongshore, across-shore, and with time. In light of the
profound variability of coastal processes, a single answer obtained with a
deterministic simulation model must be viewed as a representative result that
has smoothed over a large number of unknown and highly variable conditions.
646. Similarly, in the use of a deterministic model in a predictive
mode, the driving force (waves) responsible for beach change will not be known
exactly. Nevertheless , a time series of wave height, period, and direction
must be forecast for use in prediction and can be considered as only one of
many possible wave climates that might occur. Gravens, Scheffner, and Hubertz
(1989) present a methodology for selecting a representative time series of
wave conditions for use in shoreline change modeling.
Accountiruz for variability
647. Because of the great variability in the nearshore system, any one
prediction of shoreline change cannot be accepted as the correct answer. A
simple procedure used at CERC to estimate the effect of wave variability is to
compute the standard deviation of the wave height and direction in the input
wave time series and then adjust values of the input waves through a range
defined by these deviations (Kraus and Harikai 1983; Kraus, Hanson, and
Harikai 1984). GENESIS allows adjustment of wave height and direction by
user-specified amounts through the parameters HCNGF, ZCNGF, and ZCNGA as
specified in the START file. Wave period is not normally varied, but in
certain applications, such as a situation involving long wave periods or a sea
bottom with highly irregular features, the refraction pattern will be particu-
larly sensitive to wave period. An adjustment of the wave period is performed
by direct manipulation of the WAVES file. By varying the input wave height
and direction within a physically reasonable range, a series of shoreline
change predictions is made within which the actual change is expected to lie.

309
This procedure must be performed for all alternative designs and can involve
many simulations.
648. A more sophisticated and rigorous way to estimate the effect of
wave variability is through use of different hindcast time series. A statis-
tically correct procedure for generating appropriate time series has recently

been introduced by Bergman and Scheffner (1991). The time series thus

obtained contain valid short-term and seasonal variations of the original data

set. At CERC, this procedure is applied to the 20- or 30-year WIS hindcast

time series pertaining to the particular project area to generate a number

(typically, 5 to 20) of synthetic time series of needed length that preserve

essential physical characteristics of the original time series. The same

random time series are repeated for each alternative.

Shoreline ~osition

649. Plots of shoreline positions can reveal data errors and shoreline

change trends that are not discernible in a simple listing. As much as

possible, the two surveys defining the calibration and verification intervals

should correspond to the same season to minimize the effect of the seasonal

cyclical displacement of the shoreline.

Offshore waves
650. Shoreline change is sensitive to wave direction, and this quantity
is the most difficult to measure or estimate If information on wave direc-
tion is not available, wind direction from a nearby meteorological station,
buoy, US Coast Guard station, or airport may be useful, as well as consider-
ation of possible fetches. The effects of the coastal boundary layer and

daily and seasonal trends in wind speed, gustiness, and direction may have to

be considered (Hsu 1988).

651. The wave input interval (time-step), statistics of the waves, and

the period to be covered must also be determined. For shoreline change model

calibration and verification, either hindcast data or the actual wave record

occurring over the simulation interval are used, if available. In simulations

involving long time periods and wide longshore extent, it may be impractical

to handle a wave data file covering the full simulation period, depending on

the computer equipment at hand. Instead, a shorter wave data file can be used

and repeated, a capability provided by GENESIS and particularly useful in

scoping mode applications. The shorter record is fabricated by comparing

statistics of the total available wave data set (gage or hindcast) by year,

310
“w
- seasonj and month. Typical quantities to be preserved are average significant
.. wave height and period, maxima of these quantities, average wave direction,
and occurrence of storms. For example, a 5-year record might be composed of
I year of more frequent storms (but not the extreme year, as that would not be

representative) , a Year Of relatively low WaVeS, and 3 years judged to be

#typical.”

Bathvmetrv and Drofiles

652. If an external wave refraction model is used, hydrographic charts

are needed to digitize the bathymetry Onto the numerical grid. For users with

sufficient computer hardware and related capabilities, bathymetric data for

us coasts may be Obtained On magnetic media from NOAA and then interpolated to

the grid. The nearshore information from bathymetric charts can be compared
,.,.
with available beach profile surveys. Profile surveys often extend to a

nominal depth Of 10 m (30 ft), providing information to supplement the charts.

If calibration and verification simulation intervals are in the far past (for

example, in the 19th century), bathymetric data from that period should be

used, not the present bathymetry. This application is especially pertinent if

an inlet is included in the wave modeling grid, since ebb shoals can greatly

change in time.

653. Beach profile data are used to estimate three quantities required

to operate GENESIS: average height of the berm, depth of closure (seaward

limit of significant sediment movement), and average profile slope.

654. Variation of model setup parameters is also part of the sen-

sitivity analysis performed to estimate the dependence of the calculated
result on model setup and empirical parameters, as discussed next.

Sensitivity Testing

655. Sensitivity testing refers to the process of examining changes in

the output of a model resulting from intentional changes in the input. If

large variations in model predictions are produced by small changes in the
input, calculated results will depend greatly on the quality of the verifica-
tion, which is usually in some degree of doubt in practical applications
(owing to absence of a complete data for the verification). A second reason
for conducting sensitivity tests concerns the natural variability existing in
the nearshore system, as discussed in the previous section. No single model

311
prediction can be expected to provide the correct answer, and a range of
predictions has to be made and judgment exercised to select the most probable
or reasonable result. If the model is sensitive to small changes in input
values , the range of predictions will be too broad and, in essence, provide no
information. Experience has shown that GENESIS is usually insensitive to
small changes in parameter values. Nevertheless , sensitivity testing should
always be done.
Wave input errors
656. Measurement of wave height, period, and direction in the field is
a difficult and expensive task. When using such data as input to a simulation
model, it is important to be aware of the potential uncertainties involved in
the measurements, as well as the effects any errors might have on model
predictions. In this section, a simple sensitivity analysis is made to
illustrate in a quantitative way the consequence of small errors or uncertain-
ties in the breaking wave height and angle.
657. The change in the calculated value of the longshore sand transport
rate Q is used as the sensitivity criterion, as this quantity is the primary
variable for calculating shoreline change. The analysis is carried out to
first order, which is expected to be accurate to within a few percent under
typical conditions. At the location of wave breaking, the wave group velocity
C~~ can be approximated as,

cgb (34)
“cb=d=={~

where cb is the celerity (m/see) of the breaking wave, y is the breaker index

(Y = 0.78), and g is the acceleration due to gravity (m/sec2). This relation

inserted into Equation 2 (given in Part II) with az = O (for simplicity) and
using the notation a as an abbreviation for ab= yields:

Q= Q(H,a) = (H5~2sin2a)balw (35)

658. The relative er~ or in Q caused by a small uncertainty or error AH

in the breaking wave height can be determined to first order in a Taylor
series (omitting the subscr: pt b for breaking):

312
 Q(H*AH, a) . (H*AH) 512 - ~ ~ !iAH (36)
Q(H, a) #2 2H

A similar analysis for the uncertainty or error in wave angle Aa gives:

Q(H,a * Aa) . sin(2a * 2Aa) - 2a * 2Aa .l*& (37)

Q(H,a) sin(2a) 2a a

Consequently, if the two uncertainties or errors occur simultaneously, the

relative error in Q would be:

Q(H* AH,a k Aa) (38)

Q(H,a) ““:%
( ’(’’%=’’:%’+

Assuming the errors AH and Aa to be 10 percent each (and to have the same

sign), the relative uncertainty or error in Q comes to 35 percent. Thus, it

is seen that even a small uncertainty or error in specification of the

breaking wave height and angle results in a significant uncertainty in the

longshore sand transport rate. Viewing Equation 1 (given in Part II), it is

seen that deviations of the same order will appear in the shoreline change

calculation. With this in mind, it is reasonable to expect variations in

model calibration parameters (particularly K) by a factor of 2 or more from

one site application to another.
659. An illustration of the effect of changing magnitude of wave height

and direction is given in Figure 147. The wave climate was held constant

during the respective simulation with a period of 4 sec for a total simulation

time of 100 hr. The shoreline response to increasing obliqueness of the

incident waves(indicated by the thick and thin solid lines in Figure 147)

shows remarkable linearity. The maximum shoreline advance close to the groin

and the accumulated volume almost exactly double as the wave angle is doubled

from 10 to 20 deg. This increase confirms findings in Larson, Hanson, and

Kraus (1987) that the sand transport relation is relatively linear with

respect to wave angle if the breaking wave angle is less than about 30 deg.

313
,
t

Shoreline Position (m)

60 /
/
/
50 -,-k
T
/\ H(3
/ (m) (deg)
40
/ — 1.0 -lo
/
/ — 1.0 -20
30 / ‘---’ 0.5 -lo
/ ““”’””””’
1.5 -lo
/
20 /
/
/
/
10
/
/
/
0
o 200 400 600 800 1000
Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 147. Influence of wave height and direction

on shoreline change near a groin

660. Not unexpectedly, variations in the wave height (illustrated by

the thick solid, the dashed, and the dotted lines in Figure 147) show a much
greater degree of nonlinearity. Doubling of the wave height from 0.5 to 1.0 m

results in an increased shoreline advance near the groin by a factor of 2.7

and an increased accumulated sand volume by a factor of about 5. An increase
in wave height by 50 percent doubles the shoreline advance and accumulated
volume (beach plan surface area).
661. An illustration of the effect of changing magnitudes on wave
period is given in Figure 148. The wave climate was otherwise held constant
during the respective simulation with a wave height of 1 m, normally incident
wave crests, and a total simulation time of 100 hr.
662. As seen from Figure 148, increasing wave period results in a
larger salient behind the structure segment. The explanation for this
phenomenon is given in Figure 149, which illustrates the associated wave
height distributions inside the detached breakwater corresponding to the three
simulations in Figure 148. In Figure 149, the wave height distributions
associated with waves entering from the sides of the breakwater are shown

314
separately. The longer waves shoal sooner or more seaward ~~ ~omp~red with
the shorter waves, resulting in a greater breaking wave heigb.:. This occur-
rence means that for longer waves, the first term in the tra:s:ort ~qt~ati~ll
(K1 term) will transport more sand into the area behind the b:s:km::~r. Al~~’
according to the method of Goda, Takayama, and Suzuki (1978) isr calculating
diffraction of random waves, the wave height for diffracting longer period
waves decreases more steeply than that of shorter period waves. This decreas?
means that for the longer waves, the second term in the transport equation (~~
term) with a higher ~H\i3x-value, will transport more sand into the area behind
the breakwater.
Wave variability
663. Another basic property of a wave time series, besides the mean
value as discussed, is the standard variation. As mentioned previously, the
standard deviation can be used as a measure of wave Variability and is related
to the probability and magnitude of extreme events. In a forecasting situa-
tion, it is therefore of great importance to investigate the effect of
changing the variability (for example, through the standard deviation) on the
resulting shoreline change.

Shoreline Position (m)

I
v/////////////////////A

12
$ ..,..
;. ;
..

T
(see)
— 4.0

“---- 3.0
““”””””””
5,0
4-

1 I I 1 I
0 150 300 450 600 750 900
Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 148. Influence of wave period on shoreline

change behind a detached breakwater

315
 Breaking Wave Height (m)
w//////I////f////l////A
\ 1

1.2- ---------------------------- -------------------------

-. ---

/’
f’
!’
0.8

0.4
1 — 4,0

0
.w_#&-
---------------------- --------
— 3.0
“-----5.0

0 150 300 450 600 750 900

Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 149. Influence of wave period on wave height

distribution near a detached breakwater

664. Figure 150 illustrates an example showing accumulation behind a

200-m-long detached breakwater located 200 m from an initially straight shore-
1ine. The mean values characterizing the wave climate are T = 4 see, H = 1 m,
and 8 = O deg. The thin solid line represents the result with a constant wave
climate with T, H, and 0 at their mean values. In the other three simula-
tions, all wave parameters except one, denoted by the subscript on the
standard deviation symbol o, were held at the same (mean) value.
665. As seen from Figure 150, allowing the wave period T and height H
to vary has very little effect on the shoreline response behind the breakwa-
ter. In contrast, increased variability in the wave direction dramatically
increases accumulation behind the structure. The main reason for this
increase is that moderate variation of T and H around their respective mean
values merely redistributes the incident wave enersy in time but does not
significantly change the magnitude of the total longshore wave energy flux. A
deviation of the wave direction from normal in any direction, however,
increases the longshore component of wave energy flux, which in turn causes
more sand to move alongshore. Because of shadowing by the structure, sand

316
 Shoreline Position (m)

~
20

15

10
OH -0,50
““””””””” H

I 1 I I
-5 1 I
o 100 200 300 400 500 600
Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 150. Influence of wave variability on shoreline change

behind a detached breakwater

tends to be transported into rather than out of the shadow region, producing
large growth of the salient.
Boundary conditions
666. As described in the Technical Reference, GENESIS allows implemen-
tation of two types of lateral boundary conditions, a “gated” boundary and a
“pinned-beach” boundary. The default condition is the pinned beach; if a
groin, jetty, or shore-connected breakwater is not placed on a boundary,
pinned beach will be specified, allowing sand to move freely across the
boundary from both sides. If a structure is placed on the boundary, the
amount of sand entering or leaving the grid is determined by the distances
from the shorelines on either sides of the groin to the seaward end of the
groin, the beach slope near the groin, and the permeability of the groin.
Needless to say, the location and specification of the lateral boundaries
influence the simulated shoreline response along the entire project. The
degree of this influence is analyzed through sensitivity testing.
667. Pinned-beach boundarv. The pinned-beach boundary can be used in a
situation where a long sandy beach is located far from the project site and

317
has not or is not expected to change greatly in position. However, care
should be taken not to place the pinned boundary too close to the project.
The true interpretation of the boundary condition is that “the beach does not
want to move, “ but by placing the boundary too close, the implementation of
the condition will be that “the beach is not allowed ZO move.” The indepen-
dence of the result on this distance is checked by varying the distance. An
example of such an analysis is shown in Figure 151.
668. Figure 151 displays three simulations of accretion updrift of a
200-m-long jetty connected to a 100-m-long detached breakwater (spur). The
constant wave conditions were T = 4 see, H = 1 m, and 0 = -10 deg. The pinned
beach is placed far enough from the jetty to make the location of the simulat-
ed beach independent of the distance for the time period of the calculation.
More cells give a more accurate result, but cost more time and/or money to
perform the simulations. As seen in the figure, the difference in calculated
shoreline position between placing the boundary 600 and 900 m from the jetty
is marginal. In contrast, placing the boundary only 300 m from the jetty is
seen to hold the shoreline back significantly. Thus, placing the boundary

Shoreline Position (m)

N =number of grid cells

30- ;
/
/
/ N
/ —K
‘---- 90
/ ..
/ ““”’30
/ ,.
/
/
lo- : ..i..
/ ..<
/
/ ...
“\\. ------------------
$ 1 I
0 I I I

0 150 300 450 600 750 900

Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 151. Influence of location of a pinned beach on shoreline

change near a groin

318
600 m from the jetty seems like a good compromise for the particular simula-
tion interval involved.

669. Gated boundarv. The gated boundary condition offers the modeler

considerable flexibility in controlling the rate of sand transport across a

boundary. Apart from representing groins and jetties on the two lateral

boundaries of a grid, this boundary condition is often used to represent

relatively unknown transport rates past headlands and Other areas of a beach

where limited amounts Of sand are available Or where the physical situation is

obscure (for example, by submarine ramps extending from cliffs, rocks, and

submarine canyons close to shore) . Assuming the gated boundary is implemented

at cell wall 1, the amount of sand entering the grid is controlled by the

distance yGI from the shoreline to the seaward end of the groin/jetty outside

the grid (cf. Figure 20 in the Technical Reference) and the permeability PERM
of the groin. On the same boundary, the amount of sand leaving the grid is
controlled by the distance GL - yl measured from the location of the shore-

line at the particular time-step to the seaward end of the groin/jetty inside

the grid, where GL is the groin length and yl is the shoreline location in the
first cell; the beach slope SLOPE2 near the groin; and the permeability PERM
of the groin.
670. Figure 152 illustrates the effect of varying the parameters
controlling the sand transport across the gated boundary. The wave climate is
represented by constant wave period T = 4 sec and wave height H = 1 m. The
wave direction is normally distributed around O = O deg with a standard
deviation of 25 deg. This distribution means that, along unobstructed
portions of beach parallel to the x-axis, there are considerable and almost
equal amounts of sand being transported in either direction.
671. The thick solid line represents a case with a distance of 50 m
from the tip of the groin to the shorelines on either side of the structure.
With a beach slope of 1:100, the depth at the groin tip is 0.5 m. Thus, in
this case, a considerable portion of sand is expected to bypass the structure
in either direction because the waves break at a depth greater than the tip of
the structure, resulting in only minor shoreline change near the groin. This
situation is confirmed by the simulation.
672. By increasing y~l to 200 m, virtually no sand will be transported
onto the grid, whereas sand transport out of the grid is the same as in the
previous example. This configuration will result in a loss of sand over the

319
 Shoreline Position (m)
-–

20

10
1...
P
/
/
/
“%.
..
.......
......
.........
--
......
“--
.............
/ ..............
................................................................
j~~
0 ------------
/ ----- -------
------
/
/ YG1
—. GL SLOPE
/

/-
-lo / — 60 50 0.010
/ ,---
,.- — 200 50 0.010
A .~

1
~z..
-20 ‘---” 200 50 0.005
““”””””””
50 200 0.010

-30
0 100 200 300 400 500 600
Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 152. Influence of gated boundary parameters

on shoreline change near a groin

gated boundary and associated erosion, as illustrated by the thin solid line
in the figure. A more gently sloping bottom, represented by a dashed line in
the figure, will allow more sand to bypass the tip of the structure and off
the grid. However, the distance from the groin tip to the shoreline outside
the grid is still too long to allow any significant sand transport onto the
grid for the particular wave conditions. Thus , erosion near the groin will
increase. In the final example in this series, shown as a dotted line, y~l is
reset to 50 m, and the groin length is increased to 200 m. In this case, sand
may enter but not leave the grid, resulting in considerable accretion near the
groin.
673. As shown by the examples, through the gated boundary condition,
transport onto and off a grid may be varied independently to control the sand
transport across the boundary. For the case of a short, nondiffracting groin,
the gated boundary condition is expected to fairly well represent conditions
in the prototype, for which case y~l may be taken directly as the true
distance. However, for long, diffracting jetties, diffraction outside the
grid is not taken into account, and this condition may have to be compensated

320
fOr by changing the distance yG1 from its true value. If the gated condition

is used to represent headlands or a situation of limited sand availability,

YG1 does not have a true correspondence in the prototype, but is an artifice

that allows control of transport rates across the boundary. The appropriate

target transport rates to be simulated in this situation will depend on

experience at the coast, sensitivity tests with the gated boundary conditions,

and judgment. The effect of varying the groin permeability is discussed later

in this chapter.

Wave sequencing

674. Even if the statistical properties of the future wave climate,

such as means, extremes, and seasonal trends, have been well estimated (which

is a difficult task in itself), the exact sequence of future events cannot be

known. However, as shown by Le M4haut~, Wang, and Lu (1983), the calculated

shoreline position is sensitive to the order of wave angle sequence, particu-

larly for open beaches not affected by diffractive structures. Therefore,

when forecasting shoreline evolution for project design, the strategy has

evolved in modern shoreline change modeling procedure to predict a range of

possible future shoreline configurations, rather than a single line. This

prediction is accomplished by using waves with different sequences and,

possibly, different statistical properties, resulting in a band or envelope of

shorelines within which the “true” shoreline position can be expected to lie

(Hanson and Kraus 1986a).

675. In order to investigate the influence of wave angle sequence in

GENESIS, shoreline evolution near a groin is simulated. For this objective, a

set of 320 wave triplets (H, T, 0) was produced; this set was used to produce
all shorelines shown in Figure 153. Only the relative order of the triplets
was varied, thus holding the total incident wave energy flux constant. In all
runs, the breaking wave height was constant (1.4 m), and the breaker angle was
varied. The total simulation time was 480 hr.
676. As an attempt to obtain the maximum impact of resequencing, two
unrealistic, ordered wave sequences were examined (Hanson and Kraus 1986a) .
In the first set, the wave angle increased linearly from -15 to 15 deg, and in
the second the angle decreased linearly between the two limits. As seen, the
two sets of waves result in fundamentally different shorelines. In addition,
a large number of shorelines were simulated using wave sets obtained with a
Monte-Carlo simulation technique to resequence the original data set. Four of

321
 Shoreline Position (m)
60 / .,
/ \ \\
/ \\
/ \
“\
40 / \
\
/ \
.,
/ \
\
/ ‘\
20 ‘\
/ i.
~.
/
/
0
/ ---------------------------- --------------
/
/ Wave Sequence
-20 /
/
— Increasing e
/
-40 / ‘---’ Decreasing e
/
— Random

M
-60 I I I I i

o 200 400 600 800 1000 1200

Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 153. Influence of wave angle sequence on shoreline change

near a groin

these are shown as thin solid lines in the figure. Shoreline change for these
simulations was rather small, as expected, because che angle varied randomly
around its mean value (6 = O).
677. The analysis can be extended to include variations in wave height.
In the simulations shown in Figure 154, the breaking wave angle was held
constant (6 = -15 deg), and the breaking wave height was varied between O and
1.4 m, thus having the same average height (but not the same energy flux) as
in the previous case. The figure shows small differences between the two
extreme sequences with the wave height increasing and decreasing linearly
between the two limits, consistent with the observation made by Le M&haut6,
Wang, and Lu (1983). AS clearly demonstrated by the dashed line, the average
situation cannot be represented by the average wave height. In this simula-
tion, the total energy flux is less than for the other cases shown, explaining
why the shoreline lies well behind the others. If, instead, a constant wave
height corresponding to the mean wave energy flux is used, a shoreline (dotted
line) falling between the two extremes is produced. Numerous Monte-Carlo

322
 Shoreline Position (m)
100

80

Wave Sequence

60 — Increasing H

— Decreasing H

40
Ii -. \
‘-”-’ Average

““”””’”””AVCT.enertw
H

flux

20
“’’’’-’’’’’’’’’”s
---- —------- .------

0 100 200 300 400 500 600

Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 154. Influence of wave height sequence on shoreline

change near a groin

simulations were also made, but since they all fell almost on top of the solid
and dotted lines, they were not included in the figure.
678. As a conclusion, shoreline evolution is sensitive to wave angle
sequence, whereas for the wave height, an energy flux weighted mean can be
used, provided that the wave height is only weakly dependent on wave
direction. Because wave direction often has a seasonal trend, care should be
taken not to reduce a seasonal bias in the calibration process.
Discretization in space and time
679. The size DX of the calculation cells is determined on the basis of
a compromise between computer execution time, memory, usage charge, and the
required spatial resolution. The time-step M’ is determined in a similar way.
In addition, the requirement of updating the waves with a certain periodicity,
as well as limited information about the waves will also control choice of DT.
Typically, the value of DX is fixed early in the study in digitization of the
shoreline position and placement of structures and beach fills on the grid,
leaving only DT to be conveniently varied according to requirements on
numerical and physical accuracy, and computation time.

323
 680. In addition to these considerations, for any type of numerical
model , it must in principal be assured that the calculated results are grid
and time-step independent, although in practice for typical projects conven-
tional and common-sense values are used without performing such an analysis.
In order to investigate the sensitivity of model results to the size of the
space and time-steps, a series of calculations was performed. In all cases,
the stability parameter was held constant at R, - 0.26, and the calculation
time in each simulation was 480 hr. Other parameters were varied according to
Figure 155, which shows only that part of the beach closest to the groin. In
all runs, the breaking wave height and angle were held constant at 0.7 m and
-15 deg. The run with DT = 6 hr and DX = 60 m represents typical values of
DX and DT for field applications for modeled reaches on the order of a few
kilometers or more. For these simulations, the differences are very small
even for extremely large time-steps, indicating negligible grid and time-step
dependence.
681. However, for simulations involving transmissive detached breakwa-
ters, dependencies on time-step and grid-cell sizes could be an important

Shoreline Position (m)

100
9
/
/
80- ;
/
/ — .
/ — 96 240
60- :
— 24 120
/
/ ......... 6 60
/
‘---” 1.5 30
40- :
/ — 0.375 15
/
/
20- ;
/ ..
/
/
o I I I
o 100 200 300 400
Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 155. Influence of grid size and time-step on the calculated

accumulation updrift of a groin

324
t factor. In such cases, a sensitivity analysis may have to be performed before
I final determination of DX and DT can be made. As stated in Part VII of the

Technical Reference, it is recommended that nine grid points (eight cells) be

placed behind detached breakwaters and between groins in design mode simula-
tions and five points (four cells) in scoping mode. The larger value will

usually put a severe restriction on the size of the allowable time-step,

particularly if transmissive breakwaters are involved, since the numerical

solution scheme is almost explicit for situations involving transmissive

breakwaters.
Groin D ermeabilitv
682. Groins typically allow sand to pass through or over them, but it
is difficult to quantify the sand permeability of such structures. Therefore,
the sensitivity of GENESIS to variations in the value of this parameter is
investigated. Here, a series of simulations are presented to illustrate the
influence of permeability on the sand accumulation updrift of a groin exposed
to 0.7-m-high breaking waves with an angle of -15 deg to the x-axis for
480 hr. The result of the simulations is displayed in Figure 156.
683. If the longshore sand transport rate were independent of the
shoreline orientation dy/dx, the difference in shoreline location close to the
groin would be proportional to the difference in permeability. However, in
the course of the beach accreting near the groin, the change in shoreline
orientation and bottom contours will feed back to influence wave refraction.
Due to associated changes in the wave direction and height near the groin, the
sand transport rate will decrease with distance from the groin, As a result,
the decrease in sand accumulation caused by the permeability is partly compen-
sated by the reduced rate at which the sand transport rate decreases updrift
of the groin. This situation is confirmed in Figure 156, where the dif-
ferences between the runs are very small. If diffraction were omitted, the
eroded shoreline downdrift of the groin would appear antisymmetric to the
accreted shoreline on the updrift side.
684. Fortunately, although a precise determination of groin permea-
bility is not possible to make, it is concluded that the present implementa-
tion of permeability in GENESIS is rather insensitive to changes in this
value. At the same time, it is noted that the effect of groin permeability in
GENESIS is dependent on the representation of the groin as a gated boundary
condition. At present, the amount of sand allowed to pass through a groin is

325
 Shoreline Position (m)
80 u

60

40

20

o 100 200 300 400

Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 156. Influence of groin permeability on shoreline change

near a groin

proportional to the transport rate at the first updrift grid cell from the
structure (Perlin and Dean 1978). As a result of ongoing research, GENESIS is
expected to undergo revision in this capability, as discussed in Gravens and
Kraus (1989). Comparative calculations have shown that there are alternative
representations of the groin boundary condition (for example, Hanson and
Kraus 1980) that provide greater sensitivity of shoreline position on perme-
ability than the one presently implemented in GENESIS.
Detached breakwater transmissivitv
685. In most cases, detached breakwaters for shore protection are
designed to allow some portion of wave energy to pass through and over them,
because it is economical and often advantageous from the perspective of beach
change control to suppress tombolo formation (connection of the shoreline to
the structure). Wave transmission, referring to waves passing through as well
as over a structure, is difficult to quantify. In order to describe wave
transmission in the modeling system, a value of a transmission coefficient KT
must be specified for each detached breakwater. The transmission coefficient,
defined as the ratio of the height of the incident waves directly shoreward of

326
the breakwater to the height directly seaward of the breakwater, has the range
o g K~ < 1, for which a value of O implies no transmission and 1 implies

complete transmission.

686. In order to demonstrate the sensitivity of GENESIS to variations

in wave transmission, a series of simulations is presented to illustrate sand

accumulation in the lee Of a shore-parallel breakwater, as illustrated in

l?igure 157. The breakwater is 200 m long and is located 250 m offshore;

waves with ~ = 6 sec and H = 1.5 m are incident with crests parallel to the

initially straight shoreline. The simulation time was 180 hr. As expected,

the seaward extent of the induced large salient decreases as wave transmission

increases.

687. In comparison of Figures 156, illustrating the influence of groin

permeability, and 157, it is seen that shoreline response is much more

sensitive to breakwater transmission than to groin permeability. For example,

20-percent transmission reduces the maximum shoreline advance by 36 percent

and the accumulated volume by 25 percent. Because of the difficulty of

determining the transmissivity of real structures, the value of the parameter

is often best determined in the calibration procedure.

Shoreline Position(m)
R/f~/~/~///~~ffff//f////Jf/l
YL
20-

15-
— 0.0

lo- — 0.2
‘---”
0.4
“ 0.8
5-

..............................................................................................
o

I
-5 I I I I

o 100 200 300 400 500

Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 157. Shoreline change as a function of wave transmission

327
 688. The capability to simulate wave transmission at detached breakwa-
ters and its impact on shoreline change was first rested at Holly Beach,
Louisiana, a site containing six breakwaters of different construction and
transmission characteristics. Excellent results were obtained (Hanson, Kraus,
and Nakashima 1989). This application also showed that it would not be
possible to obtain good agreement between prototype measurements and model
predictions if wave transmission were not taken into account.
689. Hanson and Kraus (1991a) describe a computation-intensive applica-
tion of GENESIS to develop general guidance for predicting shoreline response
behind detached breakwaters as a function of all known primary parameters,
including wave transmission. The results are presented as response criteria
for distinguishing tombolo development, salient development, or no effective
shoreline change (for example, transient or seasonal response or relatively
minor response). The Technical Reference and Hanson and Kraus (1991b) also
discuss modeling results for the three transmissive detached breakwaters at
Lorrain, Ohio.
Sand main size
690. The sand grain size enters GENESIS through the equilibrium beach
profile. A finer sand results in a gentler beach profile slope, causing waves
to break farther offshore. However, the breaking wave height is unchanged in
,, areas not influenced by diffraction. Nevertheless , the calculated transport
.:
rate will change in these areas because the average beach slope tan/3appears
in the second term in the transport equation (cf. Equation 3, in Part II),
?
and a steeper beach acts to decrease the influence of this term.
691. Inside a wave diffraction zone, the breaking wave height and angle
are sensitive to beach slope, because these quantities depend on the location
of the breaking waves. The general implication is that a coarser bed material
results in less shoreline change. On the downdrift side of a groin, coarser
sand beaches will cause the waves to break closer to shore, deeper into the
shadow region. The breaking wave heights and angles will be smaller, result-
ing in less erosion close to the groin. In addition, the wave height gradi-
ent, i3H/i?x,will increase close to the groin, again resulting in less erosion.
692. A fundamentally different situation is displayed in Figure 158,
showing the shoreline change behind a detached breakwater exposed to l.4-m-
high breaking waves with a period of 5 sec and direction normal to the initial
straight shoreline. The simulation time was 50 hr. The breakwater is 200 m

328
 ——

long and placed 200 m from the initial shoreline. The influence of grain size
to that in the groin case, with a finer bed material causing the
* e:
waveS to break farther offshore. As a result, breaking wave heights will be

smaller, and the waves will be directed more into the shadow zone. Thus, both
~erms in the transport relation (Equation 2), through 0~~ and dH/dx, promote
sand transport into the shadow zone behind the breakwater, resulting in larger
salients for finer sand beaches.
693. Although the impact of sand grain size can be determined quali-
tatively, a quantitative measure cannot be given. In the situation of a
detached breakwater, as discussed previously, the grain size effect is not
only related to physical parameters such as wave period, length of the break-
. w water, and its distance from the shoreline, but also to the values of the
-.,,..
model calibration parameters, K1 and K2. For the example above, these were
.*L.: arbitrarily set to 0.5 and 0.3, respectively.
694. For simulating measured beach change, the choice of a represen-
tative sand grain size has to rest in part on engineering judgment. For many
beaches, significant variations appear both in the alongshore and cross-shore

Shoreline Position (m)

k/////////////////f///A

80

60

40
II D50(mm)

—
0.1

0.2
‘---- 0.4

\ ““”””””’”
0,8
20

...

-I=!=_
-“ U*. == L.=”” ““”..
”----- -

0 100 200 300 400 500 600

Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 158. Influence of sand grain size on shoreline change

behind a detached breakwater

329
 distributions of the grain size, the latter usually being the greater. Bascom

i
(1951) showed, on the basis of data on the US Pacific coasts, that the cross-
shore distribution of median sand grain size varies by a factor of about two

in che nearshore area. For implementation into GENESIS, it is recommended

that measured profiles be matched with templates (see Technical Reference) to
determine the appropriate effective sand grain size.
Berm heizht and depth of closure
{
695. As seen from Equation 1, for a given alongshore sand transport
I
gradient, the shoreline change is inversely proportional to the vertical
extent of the active profile DE + Dc. As discussed in the Technical
I
Reference, the depth of closure can be determined from profile surveys or
estimated by reference to a maximum seasonal or annual wave height. The berm
height is similarly specified by the user on the basis of berm profile
measurements . For some beaches, it may be difficult to assign a represen-
tative value to the berm height. As a result, the user-specified average berm
height value will exceed the real height on some parts of the beach and be
below on others. The modeler therefore needs to know the sensitivity of the
model to variations in these two parameters and how an overestimation or
underestimation may change the simulated shoreline change.
696. Four runs of evenly spaced values of l/(DB + Dc) were made. The
beach was exposed to 0.7-m-high waves with an angle of -15 deg to the x-axis,
and the simulation time was 480 hr. As illustrated in Figure 159, the simula-
tions show the same qualitative features as the groin permeability simulations
., :
i. discussed previously. Again, the interconnection between shoreline orienta-
‘..

tion and sand transport rate explains the relative small sensitivity of
GENESIS to changes in the input parameters. Although the depth of closure
,:
between the first and the fourth runs was increased by a factor of four, the

,,
[ calculated shoreline change decreased by only about 50 percent.

1
f1-
t:.. 697.
Calibration

Model calibration
and Verification Strate~ies

and verification should, in a strict sense, be

performed only to determine the values of the calibration coefficients Kl and
K2. All other input values should, in principle, be available and determined
prior to the modeling. However, in practice, complete data sets are usually
lacking. Therefore, the modeler must use his or her coastal experience as

330
 Shoreline Position [m)

80
h
El\ DB + DC(m)

— 1.125

-\\ “\
‘\ \ \
60 ‘\
+/ ‘\, \ \ — 1.5

40 1.....
/
....
.....
‘.,
‘.
‘.
\
\-
‘--- 2.25

““””’””’ 4.5

““’””-;;LL
....

----------
....
...

20

-~
‘“”--
.......,,
,,,
,.,
,.
....................................... —----------
------
0
o 100 200 300 400 500 600
Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 159. Influence of berm height and depth of closure on

shoreline change near a groin

well as experience with numerical models in general and with GENESIS in

particular to estimate the lacking input values. Often it is necessary to use
GENESIS in a systematic approach to accomplish this goal. In such cases, the
calibration/verification procedure may encompass determination of several
input parameters.
698. Usually, only one model parameter at a time is changed in order to

isolate its effect and understand its role in the overall balance with other
parameters for the particular project. In addition, the strategy is to first
determine values of main parameters controlling known quantities, often the
annual gross and net transport rates, or volumetric changes within the study
area. In a second stage of calibration, parameters having mainly local and
minor influence should then be determined to optimize the calibration.
699. As illustrated in the examples presented above, each input parame-
ter has an identifiable influence on the calculated shoreline location.
Table 20 gives a general description of how a change in value of the more
common input parameters is likely to affect the simulation. However, it is
emphasized that the table contains broad guidance. Different configurations

331
T

and applications will require determination of different combinations of

parameters, and, in special cases, the actual change in a parameter value may
produce a somewhat different result than described in Table 20.
700. As seen from Equations 2 and 3, the two terms in the sand trans-
port relation, as controlled by the calibration coefficients K1 and K2, tend
to be dominant in different modeling regions; the first term is proportional
to the magnitude of the wave height, whereas the second term is proportional
to the wave height gradient alongshore. This occurrence means that the
calculated shoreline is sensitive to the K1-value in regions of high waves,
such as on the updrift side of groins, whereas the Kz-value exerts influence
in regions with strong wave height gradients alongshore, such as in the lee of
diffracting jetties and detached breakwaters. Figure 160 shows a hypothetical
example demonstrating the relative influence of K1 and K2 on shoreline
evolution behind a detached breakwater. An increase in KI tends to flatten
out the salient behind the breakwater, whereas an increase in K2 tends to
promote growth of the salient.
701. The following examples illustrate possible calibration/verifica-
tion strategies for applying GENESIS to different schematized configuration.
However, the modeler should keep in mind that each project is unique and may
require creative application of GENESIS. Little standard operating procedure
is available when dealing with coastal sediment processes

Sim~le Groin Confimration Example

702. A groin is located along an open beach for which the shoreline
position has been surveyed three times, at tl, t2, and t3, as displayed in
Figure 161. The first survey was taken just prior to the construction of the
groin. The groin is 150 m long, with its seaward end located 100 m seaward of
the baseline coinciding with the initial, approximately straight shoreline.
Thus , the groin is specified as a diffracting groin in the START file. Wave
data covering an appropriate time interval are available. The task of the
modeler is summarized as:
a.
— Calibrate the model.
b.
— Verify the model.
c.
— Predict the shoreline location at time t4.

332
 Table 20
Control of Selected Parameters on Calculated Shoreline Position

Value Range
Name Fur,ction JRecommended) Primary Control

K1 Primary >0 Magnitude of longshore

calibration (0.1 to 1.0) sand transport rate,
coefficient
K2 Secondary >0 Distribution of sand within
calibration (0.5 KI to calculation area.
coefficient 1.5 Kl)
ISMOOTH Size of off- ltoN Time scale of shoreline
shore smooth- (11) response and equilibrium
ing window shape of shore.
HCNGF Wave height >0 Breaking wave height
change factor (0.2 to 1.0) and location.
ZCNGA Wave angle -180 to 180 Amount and direction of
change amount (-30 to 30) sand transport.
ZCNGF Wave angle >0 Directional variability
change factor (0.2 to 1.0) of waves.
Ix- Grid cell 1 to N+l Shape and location of
number of of shoreline change.
structure tip
Y- Distance of unrestricted ShaI.E and 10catioII
structure tip of shoreline change.
to x-axis
D- Depth at >0.01 Wave height and direction at
structure tip diffracting tip; _ and
and location of shoreline change.
SLOPE2 Bottom slope >0 Groin bypassing; shoreline change
near groins near groins.
PERM Groin Otol Amount of sand passing through
permeability groins; shoreline change near groins.

YG - Distance from >0 Amount of sand entering the calcula-

shoreline out- tion area.
side grid to
groin tip
TRANDB Transmission Otol Amount of wave energy passing

I coefficient
for detached
breakwater
through and over detached break-
water; shape of shoreline.

333
 Shoreline Position (m)

~
{x. /-,,
30 1’ \/
1’ ‘\-.” “,i
,’ \
1 1’
20
.—
1’ — 0.4 0.3
10 1’
:
1’
1’ “---- 0.0 0.3
1’
0
‘.
‘\\
\ ‘,~ //’
-lo ‘\ ,’ /’

1
‘.
‘... /’ \ ,.”
-- ..” i--------

-20 / I I 1 I
o 100 200 300 40!3 500 600
Distance Alongshore (m;

Figure 160. Hypothetical example illustrator.~ the influence of the

adjustable parameters in the sand transport equation. Hb = 1 m,
tl~= O deg, T= 3.5 sec. Simulation time = 90 days

Shoreline Position(m),,
6C v
/’
4
/’%
11
40 / /’
1)
/’
/’
20 /’
,/ /’

Measured
-20 Shorelines
Y
/ — at time tl
/’
-40 / .,\;( — at time t2
/
/
“---- at time t3
/
-60 ~, I I
L
I I
o 500 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000
Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 161. Measured shorelines for hypothetical groin case

334
 703. As a first attempt, standard design mode values are chosen for the

input parameters: DX=50mandDT=6hr. During the course of the simula-

tion, these values may have to be changed on the basis of warning messages
issued from GENESIS. Also, checks for grid independence may be performed.

other values! ‘or examPle) effective grain size, berm height, and depth of
clOsure, are determined from available preproject reconnaissance information.
704. The calibration interval is chosen to be from tl to Ez. Because

shoreline evolution on the updrift side of a groin is usually insensitive to

variations in K2, the first step in the calibration procedure will be to
determine KI by reproducing the shoreline change updrift of the groin, as
shown in Figure 162. While doing this, little attention is paid to the
downdrift side of the groin For this example, the best agreement was found
forKl = 0.5. In the case of several groins, KI would be set to match the
measured updrift accretion on one of the groins while exceeding it on the
other groins, other parameters expected to allow “backing off” from the
overshooting of the shoreline change. For simulated groins producing exces-
sive accretion, groin permeability is set to decrease the accretion to obtain
the best possible match. If information on annual gross and/or net transport
rates is available (for example, from dredging volumes or surveys of impound-
ment or erosion) , KI is set to reproduce these conditions.
705. The next step is to determine Kz by reproducing the downdrift
conditions while holding KI fixed, as shown in Figure 163. Even though good
and almost idenrical agreement was found using Kz = 0.5 and Kz = 0.4, the
smaller value is selected with the philosophy of minimizing potential
exaggerations later if the structure is modified. In more realistic and
complex situations, it may be necessary to repeat these two calibration steps
to fine-tune the two calibration coefficient values and other parameters that
may not be well known from the available data. At this stage, it is also
recommended that the modeler examine the result to see if there is a reason-
able balance among the input parameters.
706. When the calibration is completed, the model is verified by
reproducing measured shoreline change from tz to t~ (Figure 164) while holding
fixed all parameter values determined in the calibration, unless some physical

condition has changed that requires modification of model setup or configura-

tion parameters. If the available wave data time series does not cover the
calibration/verification interval and if, in addition, it is believed that the

335
‘k

Shoreline Position (m)

60

/’
,’
40 /’

20
//

m
0 -a

-20
#/i ......... (-j,~() ~

-40 /
— — 0.50 0
— Measured

-60
o 500 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000
Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 162. Calibration to determine the value of KI

Shoreline Position (m)

60~

/!
40

20

0 -k--:=—
Calibration t,- t2

-20 ‘---- G 666

j/ ““....” 0.50 0.50

-40 / —— 0.50 0.40

i A

-60
I 1 — Measured

o 500 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000

Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 163. Calibration to determine the value of K2

336
I wave climates were different during the calibration and verification intervals
* (for example, caused by long-term weather cycles), these conditions may be
1
partly compensated for by adjusting wave heights and angles through the use of
HCNGF, ZCNGF, or ZCNGA.
707. With the model verified, it is now possible to examine future
shoreline change. The first application would be to use the present configu-
ration to identify potential problems and to perform sensitivity analyses.
Figure 165 shows such a forecast from time t3 to t4, including a simple wave
height sensitivity test; a 10-percent increase or decrease in the mean wave
height produces relatively minor changes in the shoreline position. After
more realistic sensitivity testing to obtain a range of shoreline predictions,
the model may be used to perform a series of simulations for evaluating
alternative protective plans, including use of various different representa-
tive wave data sets to obtain a range of predictions for all alternatives.

Shoreline Position (m)

60

40

20

-20 Veriflcatlon t2- t3

K1=O.5 K2=o.4

-40 — Measured

— Calculated

-60
o 500 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000
Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 164. Model verification of a hypothetical example

337
 Shoreline Position(m)
80 ~

60

40

20

0
Forecast t3 - t ~
-20

—H+o,l H
-40
‘---- H -0.1 H
..
1
d
I I

o 500 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000

Distance Alongshore (m)

Figure 165. Forecasting and sensitivity test

Detached Breakwater Example

708. As described in Table 20 and Part II, the magnitude of the sand
transport rate is mainly controlled by K1. Also, as shown in the previous
section, shoreline response updrift of groins is sensitive to changes in K1.
In contrast, shoreline change in the lee of detached breakwaters is often more
sensitive to variations in Kz than to variations in K1 (Kraus 1983; Mimura

Shimizu, and Horikawa 1983). This result means that in situations where the

annual gross and net transport rates are not well known and where no groins

are present, it may sometimes be difficult to determine “true” values (if such

things exist) of K1 and, consequently, the associated value of K2. As

illustrated in Figure 160, the two K-terms tend to counteract each other
behind detached breakwaters in the sense that KI tends to flatten the salient
behind the breakwater, whereas K2 tends to promote growth of the salient.
More than one combination of values for the two K-terms may therefore produce
reasonable results. In such cases, the selection of calibration values must
again rest on the judgment of the modeler, in this case especially in terms of
estimation of annual transport rates.

338
M- ..

709. The typical steps in calibrating GENESIS in a detached breakwater

Project are summarized in the Technical Reference (see Figure 166, Hanson and

KrauS (1989); also Hanson and Kraus (1991b)), using the case szudy of the
three breakwaters at Lakeview Park, Lorain, Ohio. Since the time-consuming
assembly and analysis of data are thoroughly presented in the Technical Refer-
ence, this part of the study is not discussed here.
710. The grid spacing was set at 25 ft (7.6 m) to give 10 cells per
breakwater, which were 250 ft (760 m) long. Because of this relatively small

grid spacing, in the course of model calibration the time interval was set to
0.3 hr. In summary, the calibration/verification procedure for the detached

breakwater case study was performed as follows:

a. KI was varied to reproduce historic longshore sand transport
—
rates estimated in previous studies.
b
—. K2 and the distance YGl to the shoreline outside the grid to
the seaward end of the western (left-hand) groin were varied
to obtain the approximate magnitude of net inflow of sand to
all breakwaters
the study area from the west. At this point,
were still considered impermeable. Therefore, all calculated
salients were at least as large as the measured ones.

LAKE ERIE

I 160’ ! 2s0’
f

INE

8 8
+ + + Y
u-l 0 0
In
I

ii f s— SCALE 4
Ei
MTUM LwO = 568.6IT o tcozoom~
STATIONSIN 1OO-FT
INCREMENTS.

Figure 166. project Design, Lakeview Park

339
 c The transmission coefficients of the breakwaters were adjusted
“ (increased from O) to obtain the correct (decreased) size of
the salients behind the structures.
~. The longshore location of the eastern detached breakwater was
translated two grid cells to the east to obtain better agree-
ment between the calculated and measured position Of the
easternmost This adjustment was probably needed to
salient.
compensate for the effects of irregular bottom bathymetry at
the site on wave refraction, whereas in the model straight and
parallel contours were used.
e.
— For the verification, the distance YG1 was increased, as read
from aerial photographs.
f.
— Although reasonable agreement was obtained for the verifi-
cation interval using the same l-year-long wave data set as
during calibration, still better agreement was obtained by
increasing the input wave height by LU percent (ticNGfi”
= 1.1).

*
Interpretation of Results
,,
.
711. Results are always checked for general reasonability. In this
regard, an overview of regional and local coastal processes and the sediment
budget calculation or first-order modeling discussed previously are employed
to judge model results. For example, is the overall trend of the calculated
shoreline position correct and not just the dominant feature? Do the magni-
tude and direction of the calculated longshore sand transport rate agree with
independent estimates? Experience gained in the verification, sensitivity
analysis, and modeling of alternative plans will help uncover erroneous or
misleading results. Plots of computed shoreline positions reveal obvious
modeling mistakes, whereas more subtle errors of either the model or modeler
may be found in the sensitivity analysis through understanding of basic
dependencies of shoreline change on the wave input and boundary conditions.
712. Shoreline change is governed by nonlinear processes, many of which
are represented in GENESIS. Complex beach configurations and time-dependent
wave input will produce results that cannot be extrapolated from experience.
However, as much as possible, experience should be called upon to evaluate the
correctness of results and to comprehend the trends in shoreline change
produced.
713. Finally, the user must maintain a certain distance from model
results. Obliquely incident waves are not responsible for all longshore sand
transport and shoreline change. Potential errors also enter the hindcast of

340
I
1
the i.ncidenc waves, in representing an irregular wave field by monochromatic
t
waves , and sometimes through undocumented human activities and extreme wave
events that have modified the beach. The probable range in variability of
coastal processes must also be considered when interpreting model results.

341