PunkVoodooDollPatternGnarwhalCrochet PDF

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The document provides a full crochet pattern to make a punk doll with cat and bunny features.

The materials needed are various colors of yarn, a crochet hook, stuffing material, and a yarn needle.

The doll is assembled by sewing the head to the body, then attaching the arms, legs, tail, eyes and ears in the specified order.

punk * doll

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voodoo style doll with cat and bunny mod
full crochet pattern + pictures!
WHAT YOU NEED:
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I used 3 colours for this doll: Main Colour (blue for the bunny, mint green for the
cat), Contrast 1 (white) and Contrast 2 (black). You can use whatever yarn you
like, of course!
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- 100g of Yarn & Colors Epic in Main
- 50g of Yarn & Colors Epic in White
- 50g of Yarn & Colors Epic in Black
- A 3mm crochet hook
- A yarn needle
- Polyfill or other stuffing material
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ABBREVIATIONS:
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All abbreviations are in US terminology!
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st = stitch
sl = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = increase (work 2 single crochet into the next stitch)
dec = decrease (work the next 2 stitches together)
dec2 = decrease by 2 stitches at once, by working the next 3 stitches together
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BEFORE YOU START:
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This pattern is written in the amigurumi method. This means that you do not close
the round with a slip stitch at the end of each row, but continue in a spiral! The
only exceptions to this are the bunny ears (due to the colour changes) and the
eyes.
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You close a round with a slip stitch in the first stitch you made. Before you continue,
chain 1, and work your first stitch in the stitch where you made the chain. The
chain does not count as a stitch throughout this entire pattern!
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For colour changes in the bunny ear: change the colour in the last stitch before
the round you want to use your new colour in. For example: if you want to switch
from black to white, for your last stitch in black you pull up the first loop in black,
and use white for the second loop to complete the stitch!
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Instead of using a magic ring/loop, you can also ch 2 and work your stitches in the
2nd chain from your hook. In both instances, make sure that you finish off tightly so
no stuffing comes through.
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If the pattern says to “work in the inner loop only”, work in the one loop of the stitch
that will be inside the limb. This way, you’ll get a little ridge on the outside!
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HOW TO READ THE PATTERNS:
If the pattern says “(sc 4, inc 1) x3 (18)” you make 1 single crochet in each of the
next 4 stitches, then you increase in the next stitch. You repeat what is between
(brackets) 3 times, because that’s the number the pattern indicates. Once you’re
done, you should have 18 stitches in your round.
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HEAD:
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In Main Colour
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1: make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
2: inc x6 (12)
3: (sc 1, inc 1) x6 (18)
4: (sc 2, inc 1) x6 (24)
5: (sc 3, inc 1) x6 (30)
6: (sc 4, inc 1) x6 (36)
7: (sc 5, inc 1) x6 (42)
8: sc around (42)
9: (sc 6, inc 1) x6 (48)
10 - 15 (6 rounds): sc around (48)
16: (sc 6, dec 1) x6 (42)
17: (sc 5, dec 1) x6 (36)
18: (sc 4, dec 1) x6 (30)
19: (sc 3, dec 1) x6 (24)
20: (sc 2, dec 1) x6 (18)
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Finish off with a slip stitch in the next stitch, and leave a 12” tail for sewing. Stuff.
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BODY:
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In Main Colour
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1: make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
2: inc x6 (12)
3: (sc 1, inc 1) x6 (18)
4: (sc 2, inc 1) x6 (24)
5: (sc 3, inc 1) x6 (30)
6: (sc 4, inc 1) x6 (36)
7 - 12 (6 rounds): sc around (36)
13: (sc 4, dec 1) x6 (30)
14: sc around (30)
15: (sc 3, dec 1) x6 (24)
16: sc around (24)
17: (sc 2, dec 1) x6 (18)
18: sc around (18)
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Finish off, weave in the tail. Stuff.
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ARMS: (make 2)
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In Main Colour
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1: make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
2: inc x6 (12)
3: (sc 1, inc 1) x6 (18)
4 - 6 (3 rounds): sc around (18)
7: (sc 4, dec 1) x3 (15)
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Start stuffing the arm.
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8 - 9 (2 rounds): sc around (15)
10: (sc 3, dec 1) x3 (12)
11 - 13 (3 rounds): sc around (12)
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Stuff the rest of the arm. I didn’t stuff the final rows, so the upper arm stays
bendable.
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14: dec 1, sc 10 (11)
15 - 16 (2 rounds): sc around (11)
17: dec 1, sc 9 (10)
18 - 19 (2 rounds): sc around (10)
20: dec 1, sc 8 (9)
21 - 22 (2 rounds): sc around (9)
23: dec 2 (decrease as you normally would, but pick up 1 extra loop) (7)
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Finish off, leave a long tail for sewing.

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! Long arms are great for hugs!
LEGS: (make 2)
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In Contrast 1 (white):
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1: make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
2: inc x6 (12)
3: (sc 1, inc 1) x6 (18)
4: (sc 2, inc 1) x6 (24)

Switch to Main Colour


! The bunny foot has long, even black
5: (in inner loop only) sc around (24) stitches, while the cat foot has shorter,
6 - 10 (5 rounds) sc around (24) more messy stitches. It is up to your
11: (sc 6, dec 1) x3 (21) preference!
12 - 14 (3 rounds): sc around (21)
15: (sc 5, dec 1) x3 (18)
16 - 18 (3 rounds): sc around (18)
19: (sc 4, dec 1) x3 (15)
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Finish off, leave a long tail for sewing, and stuff.
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Thread a needle with Contrast 2 (black). Sew little lines from the sole of the foot to
the Main Colour, with 2 or 3 stitches in between each line. Use the picture as a
guide.
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EYES: (make 2)
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In Contrast 2 (black)
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1: make 6 sc in a magic ring. Close with a sl in the 1st sc.
2: ch 1 (doesn’t count as sc). Sc 2 in the st you made the ch in. Sc2 in the other 5 st.
Sl in 1st sc. (12)
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Finish off, leave long tail for sewing.
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Now you’re gonna embroider the x-es on the eyes. With Contrast 2, thread a yarn
needle. You won’t have to pull the yarn halfway through and tie a knot - you’ll be
using a single strand. Embroider the x-es on the eyes. Make them asymmetrical for
an extra creepy look.
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Finishing touches: bunny/cat details.
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BUNNY EARS: (make 2)
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Note: these are worked in the round instead of in a spiral!
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The bunny ears are made in Contrast 1 (white) and 2 (black). Switch between
colours after every 3rd round, the first time after round 3!
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1: make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
2: inc x6 (12)
3: (sc 1, inc 1) x6 (18)
4 - 12 (9 rounds): sc around (18)
13: dec 1, sc 16 (17)
14 - 16 (3 rounds): sc around (17)
17: dec 1, sc 15 (16)
18 - 20 (3 rounds): sc around (16)
21: dec 1, sc 14 (15)
22 - 24 (3 rounds): sc around (15)
25: dec 1, sc 13 (14)
26 - 28 (3 rounds): sc around (14)
29: dec 1, sc 12 (13) The bunny tail is a little ball!
30 - 32 (3 rounds): sc around (13)
33: dec 1, sc 11 (12)
34 - 36 (3 rounds): sc around (12)
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Finish off, leave a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff.
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BUNNY TAIL:
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In Contrast 2 (black).
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1: make 6 sc in a magic ring
2: inc x6 (12)
3: (sc 3, inc 1) x3 (15)
4: sc around (15)
5: (sc 3, dec 1) x3 (12)
Stuff
6: dec x6 (6)
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Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.
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CAT EARS: (make 2)
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I made both ears a different contrasting colour (black and white).
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1: make 4 sc in a magic ring (4)
2: (sc 1, inc 1) x2 (6)
3: (sc 2, inc 1) x2 (8)
4: (sc 3, inc 1) x2 (10)
5: (sc 4, inc 1) x2 (12)
6: (sc 5, inc 1) x2 (14)
7: (sc 6, inc 1) x2 (16)
8: (sc 7, inc 1) x2 (18)

9: sc around (18)
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Finish with a slip stitch in the next stitch, finish off and leave a long tail for sewing.
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CAT TAIL:
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I started in Contrast 2 (black) and used it for 3 rounds, then Contrast 1 (white) for 3
rounds, the rest was worked in Main (mint green).
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1: make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
2: (sc 1, inc 1) x3 (9)
3 - 18: sc around (9)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. You can make the tail as long as you
want!
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ASSEMBLY:
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You’ll have 11 body parts in front of you right now: a head, a body, two arms, two
legs, two ears, two eyes, and a tail.
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First you’ll sew the head to the body. You have the same amount of stitches on
both openings (18), so whip stitch them together stitch by stitch. Stuff the neck a
little as you go, so the head won’t bob to the side.
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Now you’ll sew on the arms. Flatten the top of the arms, and sew them onto the
last row you made on the body, basically in the “neck” of the doll, on either side of
the body. You can place them a little more to the front for a more animal-like look.
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For the legs: sew them on between row 5 and 11 of the body, with 6 empty stitches
between them. You can also sew them closer together, but any further and the
doll might become unstable!
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The tail is sewn onto the back of the doll, on row 5 and 6 of the body. This way, the
doll can lean on its tail and sit up without assistance!
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The eyes are sewn on between row 10 and 14 of the doll, with 8 empty stitches
between them.
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The bunny ears are sewn onto round 7 of the back of the head, with 6 empty
stitches between them. The cat ears are sewn on top of the head, across round 3
to 6. Pinch them slightly so they look more like cat ears.
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DETAILS:
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The doll has a sew line with some stitches running from its throat, over its head, and
into the back of its neck. Figure out exactly what the center of your doll’s head is
before sticking your needle into it! This is where your line will be running.
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Cut off a long thread of your Main colour. Stick your needle into the back of the
doll, at the exact center of the neck. Make sure you have a long tail to work with!
Force your needle through the head, and out of the center of the top of the head.
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Running your thread along the back of the head; insert your needle into the stitch
where you first put it in, in the center of the neck. Let your needle come out at the
same stitch on the top of the head. Pull on your thread a little, so the head “caves
in” just a bit.
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Now, running your thread along the front of the head; insert the needle into the
center stitch of the throat. Poke it through the neck and out of the first stitch in the
back of the doll once more. Finish off both yarn tails.

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The little x-es on the face are made with Contrast 2 (black). Make them 1 to 3
stitches wide, and don’t be afraid to make them a little wonky or asymmetrical!
COPYRIGHT AND STUFF
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Pattern was created by Julie van der Staak (Gnarwhal Crochet) and may not be
resold by anyone but the original creator.
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I don’t mind if you make copies of this pattern for a friend, but please do not make
any part of the pattern or instructions available to others through your website or a
third party website, or share it with large groups of people.
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You may sell products made from this pattern online, if you credit the original
designer (Gnarwhal Crochet) in the item description! You may sell products made
from this pattern offline, if you credit the original designer (Gnarwhal Crochet) on
the label.
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Do not mass-produce, which means you may not manufacture in large quantities,
especially by machine.
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Please respect my copyright.
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And to the pattern testers or pattern buyers who’ve hopefully read this far: thank
you, I hope you enjoy working on this doll as much as I enjoyed designing it!
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SOCIAL MEDIA:
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Facebook: www.facebook.com/gnarwhalcrochet
Etsy: www.gnarwhalcrochet.com
Instagram: www.instagram.com/jeweltheelf or @jeweltheelf
Email: [email protected]
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I’d love to see your wonderful creations. Post them to my Facebook page or post
them to Instagram tagging me or with hashtag #gnarwhalcrochet and I’ll be sure
to check them out!
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If you have any questions regarding this pattern, or if you just can’t figure it out,
feel free to message me on Etsy, Instagram, Facebook, or email, and I’ll help you
out!

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