Zenit Shuttercurtain Tension Adjustment

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Zenit Shuttercurtain tension adjustment

tomtiger.home.xs4all.nl/zenrep/ztension.html

This has to be done if one curtain travels too slow. These instructions are ment for
all Zenits with cloth shutter curtains.

These are, Zenit, Zenit-C, 3, 3M, Kristal, E, B, EM, BM, ET,10, 11, 12, 122, 312 and the
412. And it also works on the Rangefinders Zorki 6, Zorki 4 and Zorki 4K.

Tensioning the shutter curtains ain't as hard as people think. The most common
problem is that the second curtain roller isn't properly tensed. This leads to a gap
on the left. Which causes a vertical band across photos.
This problem can also be caused by a lack of lubrication.

Remove the bottomplate by removing the


four screws as seen on this shot. Almost all
Zenits with cloth shutters have the same
bottom. Some models may have the tripod
socket in a different place.

With the bottomplate removed you will see


two cross-shaped nuts (left side in this
shot). In this shot the mount is on the
botton of the shot and the camera's back
on the top of the shot. The upper nut in this
shot tenses the first curtain. The bottom
nut, closer to the front of the camera,
tenses the second curtain and this is the
one that should be thightened. Also in this
shot you will see a part of the
shutterbutton return spring (big black
leverplate on the upper right) The cross-
shaped nut here (located almost in the
middle) is for tensioning the spring of the
mirror return.

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Remove the locking screw head first this is
the tiny screw placed between the slots of
the cross shaped nut. In this shot one is
allready removed. In the middle of the
cross shaped nut, there is another screw,
this is turned to tense the shutter. If the
tension was relaxed, turn this
COUNTERCLOCKWISE four times. You
should feel the spring underneath tighten.
If the tension wasn't released by removing
the locking nut, give the tensing screw one
turn to increase the 2nd curtain's tension. Give the cross-shaped nut a bit of a
turn, CLOCKWISE, to tighten it and position one of its slots over the hole where the
locking screw goes in.

Replace the locking screw again. If the gap remains, give one half or one turn
more. DO NOT OVERTENSE. You can break the screw or the spring inside. And if
that happens you will have to get a scrapcamera to replace the roller. If the gap
remains, the gears could be dirty or lacking lubrication.

If the shutter has a problem at 1/30th only.


Then two things may be causing this. The
Shutter may hang at the leather at the
back of the mirror, you can see this at the
B setting. It can in some cases be fixed by
rubbing in a bit of talcum powder in the
leather. Or to adjust the cross-shaped nut
(located almost in the middle) seen in the
shot above. This may be 1/2 to 2 turns.

Recap
A warning about the tensioning screws Do not tension them too much this
can break the springs inside the rollers.
The first curtain should work with 4 to 4 1/2 turns from "zero" tension. The
second, with less, just enough so that the curtain can close fully regardless of
the way the camera is held.
The little screw locks the cross ("clover") nuts in place. To tense, the (even
smaller) screw to which the nuts are threaded should be turned. This cannot
be done without removing the locking screws first.
Tensing should be done with the curtains reeled on their respective rollers.
This means the camera is uncocked (fired).

Many thanks to Jay Javier and Jon Goodman for their help on this difficult subject.

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