Getting Started: Choosing A Breed
Getting Started: Choosing A Breed
Keeping a few chickens in the back yard really is quite straight forward;
however there are some things to consider in order to get the right sort of
birds for your situation and to keep them in the best possible health to get
the most enjoyment out of keeping them.
This page hopes to get you thinking about the types of chickens and their
requirements.
Choosing a breed
Some breeds of chicken come only as Large Fowl, and others are also
available as Bantams which are a smaller version that look the same. The
Orpington for example is available in both large and bantam sizes but the
Cochin is only available as large fowl.
There are a handful of ‘True Bantams’ where there is no large fowl
equivalent. Examples of these are Dutch Bantams, Japanese Bantams and
the popular Pekin Bantam.
Bantams tend to be quite flighty whereas the heavy breeds of large fowl
often cannot fly more than a few inches off the ground. Orpingtons for
example won’t usually roost very high due to their huge size and will usually
just huddle on the floor of the coop.
Every breed is slightly different in the amount of eggs they lay. Typically
hens that have been bred for exhibition purposes do not lay as well as utility
hens. Bantams of course lay smaller eggs which some people say they prefer
for taste.
Hybrids
Hybrids are a good choice if eggs are one of your priorities although if you
think you might like to hatch some eggs, remember hybrid hens do not
breed true – you would need the original pure breeds to cross again in order
to create more of the same thing so whilst you can hatch their eggs, you
may want to consider a few pure breeds for this purpose or consider buying
in eggs to hatch.
Free Range
You will of course need a chicken coop but also a secure run or area that is
predator proof. A question that people always ask me is “How big should
their run be?” I always say “as big as possible within reason.” Even 2
chickens kept in a 2 meter run will soon turn it to mud and get bored (which
can introduce vices such as feather pecking and egg eating) but I always
believe that it’s fine to provide a small run like this if you can let them out for
a few hours each day to free range while you are around. This will give them
a chance to forage, supplement their diet and reduce boredom.
Once chickens have settled into their new house, they will go back to it to
roost every night so you can let them out in the late afternoon, knowing they
will come back to roost at night keeping everyone happy! Some houses and
runs have handles or wheels that make them easy to move onto fresh
ground which is not only good to prevent a build up of worm eggs and
disease but also provides them with a little fresh grass to graze.
If you have a ‘nice’ garden that you don’t want spoilt, it’s usually a sensible
idea to limit their foraging. Chickens scratch at the ground, make dust baths
in the dry soil, leave muck wherever they go and destroy tender young
plants. If you can plant in pots, this will help and fencing off part of the
garden is usually a good choice to keep them out if you have tender or
precious plants. Chickens with feathered feet scratch less and bantams can
clear a 6 foot fence if they want to. Heavy breeds of large fowl can be kept
out with a knee high fence or box hedge. If you want to stop a bird from
flying then you can clip one wing (not both).
So you have decided on the breed that’s right for you and your
circumstances. Next, you will need to think about keeping them secure from
predators in a suitable chicken house and chicken run
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