Sierra DNA75 DNA133 DNA167 – Build Instructions

NOTE: this is a challenging build (requires soldering parts while in the case in a cramped space), so
probably not suitable for the beginner modder or someone with shaky hands.

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible and have no liability regarding your safety – following these
instructions and attempting the build is at your own risk.

PERMISSIONS: feel free to use my Sierra case to make mods for yourself, for friends and family, and for
commercial sales. However, do not use my custom Sierra welcome screen or mislead anyone into
thinking I did the build for your mod. You may credit me as the designer of the case, but it stops there.

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Parts List:
Sierra case (http://i.materialise.com/shop/designer/mamu)
Note: when ordering the case, click on “Add remarks” on the right side of the order form and in the field,
put “Model must be printed upright.”

DNA75, DNA200, or DNA250 board

Cisco 510 connector (http://www.avidvaper.com/cisco-510-connector-v2)

Cisco ss button actuator set (http://www.avidvaper.com/dna200-stainless-fire-wattage-buttons)

2x FDV 18650 ss battery tubes (http://www.fatdaddyvapes.com/shop.html)

P-FET (DNA200 and DNA250 only, for reverse polarity protection) (https://www.digikey.com/product-
detail/en/infineon-technologies/IPD042P03L3-G/IPD042P03L3-GCT-ND/3196584)

2x Resettable Fuses (DNA75 only, for reverse polarity protection) (https://www.digikey.com/product-

detail/en/littelfuse-inc/MHP-TAM15-9-90/MHP-TAM15-9-90-ND/5403406)

4x 4mm x 2mm N52 magnets

3x #0-80 screws ¼” in length (DNA board mounting screws)
Red and black 18AWG wire – silicone insulated (input)
Red and black 16AWG wire – silicone insulated (output) (DNA75)
Red and black 14AWG wire – silicone insulated (output) (DNA200 – DNA250)
26AWG wire (DNA200 – DNA250 only, tap connections and P-FET Gate)
Epoxy (I use Araldite Rapid)

Uni-4300 Aluminum Soldering Flux + Aluminum Solder

(http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?clk_rvr_id=1179913908085&gclid=Cj0KEQiAl4TGBRDhgvmikdHPsdABEi
QAtBcc8NEiZAYKJnvCqeRrqfJrPddXfb4bWXRI3pgT1-
MoRdoaAhaT8P8HAQ&geo_id=10232&MT_ID=69&crlp=166863778468_1647&rlsatarget=kwd-
54834316305&keyword=uniweld+p4kd9&treatment_id=7&poi=&adpos=1o1&device=c&crdt=0&ul_noapp
=true&_nkw=uniweld+p4kd9&_sop=15)

Black electrical tape

Nippers
Craft knife

Tip: tin (apply flux, then apply a dab of solder) to all bare wire ends and the solder pads of the
board before soldering a connection.

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Separating the faceplate from the case …
Separate the faceplate from the case by using a pair of nippers to cut the supports between the case and
faceplate and also to cut the supports from the screen holder.

Use a craft knife to scrape off and remove the bumpies left on the surface from cutting the supports off as
these may interfere with the correct seating of the faceplate and screen holder.

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Washing and painting…
If you bought the white polyamide material, the powdery residue needs washed off the surface and out of
holes and crevices prior to painting. I place the case and faceplate in a bowl of warm soapy water, scrub
with a hand brush, rinse, and then let air dry.

Paint the case and faceplate with your preferred paint and seal with a few layers of a clear coat. If you
bought a dyed case and not going to paint the case, you should at least seal and protect with a few layers
of a clear coat, else the dye will leach and wear off.

Test fit the 510 connector, button actuators, and the battery tubes to make sure everything
fits. If the hole in the case or faceplate is slightly too small, ream the hole a bit larger using
the craft knife.

Adding magnets to the case and faceplate…

Apply a dab of epoxy in each magnet hole of the case and faceplate and secure the magnets in place
(place a larger magnet on the underside of the magnet to hold it in place until the epoxy sets). Be sure to
insert the magnets with the correct polarity and seat the magnet so that it is flush.

Securing the screen to the board and working with the screen holder…
Apply a piece of black electrical tape to the underside of the screen. This gives the screen an even overall
black background. Insert the cable end of the screen into the ZIF connector, close the ZIF connector.

Slide the screen through the hole in the holder and position the screen in its guide so that the top end of
the screen butts into the top inside edge of the guide and the cable end lies under the holder gently
bended accordion style (gently bend the cable at the screen end to position it under the holder).

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Caution: do NOT crease when bending the screen cable, else the screen will not work.

Push down on the screen holder near the top center and bottom center in the tact switch area so that the
holder seats between the tact switches and snugs into the side edges of the board.

Attaching the board to the faceplate…

Insert the DNA board into its position in the faceplate, then screw a #0 screw in each of the screw slots of
the DNA board. Do not overtighten the lower screw close to the USB else the board in that area may tilt
from not having an opposite sided screw and cause the USB to slant (which will be noticeable on the front
side of the case).

Working with the 510 connector…

DNA200 or DNA250 – cut one black and one red 14AWG wire 2” long.
DNA75 – cut one black and one red 16AWG wire 2” long.

Solder the red wire to the center pin and assemble the center pin housing with the connector. Solder the
black wire into one of the holes in the brass capture ring (see picture below for recommended hole).

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Working with the battery tubes…
For the aluminum solder to adhere well to the tubes, scuff up the area where there will be solder. I use a
dremel to dremel a slight indent in these areas.

Scuff up a spot on each battery tube about 1-1/2” up from the bottom of each tube.

Wiring to do BEFORE inserting the battery tubes in the case…

You’ll need to wire the positive end of each tube before inserting the tubes into the case.

If working with the DNA75 and as shown in the wiring guide below for the DNA75, wire a fuse to each
positive end of the battery tube and wire a 2” long 18AWG red wire to the free end of the fuse.

If working with the DNA200 or DNA250 and as shown in the wiring guide below for the DNA200/250, wire
the P-FET’s Gate (1-1/2” 26AWG black wire) and Source (4” red 18AWG wire plus 4” red 26AWG wire) and
solder the P-FET’s Drain to the tab on the positive end of the left battery tube (cover the brass nut first
with electrical tape). Wire a 1-1/2” 26AWG black wire plus a 4” 26AWG black wire plus a 4” 18AWG black
wire to the tab of the right positive end battery tube.

Note: when inserting the tubes into the case, you’ll need to insert the wires first, then the top of the tube,
so make sure you can easily position the wires, fuse, P-FET above the tube else the tube will not slide into
its hole in the case.

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Top end battery wiring for the DNA200/250

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Epoxying the tubes in the case…
Test fit the tubes in the case – slide in and out twist and turn to make sure they slide in easily and all the
way in. Remove the tubes from the case and dab some epoxy (I use a toothpick) in the areas shown in
the picture below.

Position the wires above the top of the tubes and slide each tube in place making sure the scuffed area is
positioned as shown in the picture below.

Note: pay attention when sliding tubes in to not get epoxy on the part of the tube that will be
facing the side case open holes or you’ll have a mess on the part of the tube that will be
showing on each side of the case. Before inserting, position the tube so that the scuffed area is
facing toward the middle of the inside of the case and slide the tube straight in – do not twist
and turn.

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Insert the 510 connector in the case and attach the brass capture ring.

Wiring…
Caution: pay attention to where the soldering iron is at all times when soldering inside the
case – you don’t want burn marks on your pretty case!

Apply the aluminum soldering flux to the scuffed areas of each tube and using the aluminum solder, apply
solder to the scuffed areas of the tubes. When the solder hardens, pick at the solder to ensure that it
sticks and doesn’t flake off. Once this is done, you can switch to regular solder.

For the DNA75 and referring to the picture above for wiring the DNA75 battery tubes, solder the fuses’ red
18AWG free wire ends together, then solder a 2” long 18AWG red connecting wire to these free wire ends.
Apply heat shrink tubing over the bare connection. Make a solder bridge across the scuffed areas of the
tubes to connect the tubes together and solder a 2” long 18AWG black wire to this solder bridge.

For the DNA200/250 and referring to the picture above for wiring the DNA200/250 battery tubes, solder
the free end of the P-FET’s Gate wire to the free end of the 1-1/2” black wire of the right tube. Apply heat
shrink tubing over the bare connection and then tuck these wires down in between the tubes. Make a
solder bridge across the scuffed areas of the tubes to connect the tubes together and solder a 2-1/2”” long
26AWG blue wire to this solder bridge. Straighten all wires toward the bottom of the case, then trim all
wires even with the bottom of the case (except Tap 1 wire – do not cut).

Apply electrical tape along the length of each tube.

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Solder the 510 positive and negative to the board, then solder the positive and negative input to the
board. For the DNA200/250, solder the Tap connections. Note: solder the free end of the 26AWG red
wire across both tap #2 and tap #3 (DNA200/250).

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Before seating the faceplate, insert batteries and make sure the DNA works. For the DNA200 and 250 you
will need to connect to Escribe and set 2-cell and calculate the WH.

Position the faceplate to the case. If the faceplate doesn’t seat flush all around the edges, reposition the
wiring (especially push in on the output wires and curve them to the inside top of the case and align the
input wires along the side edge of the board and then down the center between the tubes) and try again.
If the faceplate still doesn’t seat flush, apply a thin line of epoxy along the case’s front ridge and position
the faceplate in place and hold in place until the epoxy sets. I’ve had cases where the faceplate seats nice
and flush and cases where it needs a bit of epoxy to seat flush, but most times I can re-position the wiring
to seat the faceplate flush.

If you need to remove the faceplate, insert a bent tool (I use a dental pick with bent ends) inside the hole
on the underside of the case and pop the faceplate off to release it from the case’s magnets. If you’ve
had to use epoxy on the faceplate, use a heat gun aimed at the edges of the faceplate to soften the epoxy
before trying to remove the faceplate.

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Enjoy your new mod!

Mamu
3/9/2017

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