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SC 2005-06 Jun
Silicon Chip 2005 6
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\ Build a Simple ;ower Regulator Foe WESHERISE. SEA FA p The most amazing, intriguing clock youl ever see!FEATURES 8 Looking At Laptops Laptop computers are growing rapidly in popularity. Here's a look at what you got for your money ~ by Ross Tester 14 Getting Into WiFi, Pt.2 Setting up a wireless network? Ad-hoc networks are easy ~ by Ross Tester 76 PICAXE In Schools, Pt.2 Writing programs that respond to input signals ~ by Clive Seager PROJECTS TO SUILD 26 The Mesmeriser: A LED Clock With A Difference This clock is spelbincin. Ty taking your eyes ofthe circular 60-LED array that chases anticlockwise each second to buld up the seconds display ~ by Scott Meling 38 The Coolmaster Fridge/Freezer Temperature Controller itcan tura your spare tridgo into a wine chile, or your old freezer into a very cffiont fridge — by Jim Rowe 61 Alternative Power Regulator This simple shunt regulator is periec for use with solar, wind and mini-hyaro power generators and handles 12V or 24V systems ~ by Foss Tester 70 PICAXE Colour Recognition System Use a PICAXE micro and a state-of-the-art optoelectronic IC to create a low- cost colour recognition system - by Clive Seager 84 AVR200 Single Board Computer, Pt.1 It's based on a fast ATMEGA32 microcontroller and can be programmed in both °C" and BASIC" by Ed Schoell SPECIAL COLUMNS 46 Salvage It! A voltmeter for almost nothing - by Julian Edgar 48 Serviceman’s Log Every storm has a siver lining ~ by the TV Serviceman 66 Circuit Notebook (1) Solar Hot water Controller; (2) Two Basic Motor Speed Controllers; (8) Op Amp Building Blocks 96 Vintage Radio Signal generators: what they are and how to fix them — by Rodney Champness DEPARTMENTS 2 Publisher's Letter 4 Mailbag 19 Order Form 92 Product Showcase 106 Ask Silicon Chip 109 Market Centre 111 Ad index siliconchip.com.au a The Mesmeriser L Page 26. Coolmaster Fridge/Freezer Temperature Controller - Page 38, Recognition System - Page 70. AVR200 Single hay Board Computer — Page 84. JUNE 2005 1silenchip.com. oa Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Leo Simpson, B.Bus., FAICD Production Manager Greg Swain, B.Sc.(Hons.) Technical Editor Poter Smith Technical Staff John Clarke, B.E.(Elec) Ross Tester Jim Rowe, B.A., B.Sc, VK22LO Reader Services ‘Ann Jenkinson. Advertising Enquiries Lawrence Smith Benedictus Smith Ply Ltd Phone (02) 9211 8035 Fax: (02) 9211 0068 lawrence @benedictus-smith.com Contributors Brendan Akhurst Rodney Champness, VKSUG, Julian Edgar, Dip.T.(Sec.), BEd, Grad Dip dnt Mike Sherif, B.So, VK2YFK ‘Stan Swan SILICON CHIP Is published 12 times 2 year by Slicon Chip Publications ty Lid. ACN 003 205 490. ABN 49 (003-205 480 All material copyright ‘©. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Printing: Hannanprint, Noble Park, Victoria Distribution: Network Distribution ‘Company. ‘Subscription rates: $83.00 per year in Australia. For overseas ‘tes, see the subscrotion page in this issue Editorial office: Unit 8, 101 Darley St, Mona Vale, NSW 2103. Postal address: PO Box 139, Collaroy Beach, NSW 2097. Phone (02) 9979 5644. Fax (02) 9979 6503, E-mail: sichip@ siliconchip.com.au ISSN 1030-2562 * Recommended and maximum price ony. 2 SILICON Grip Publisher's Letter Photocopying is a huge cost to SILICON CHIP One of the really good aspects ofall the emails we get from readers is the positive feedback Many readers are so positive it almost becomes embarrassing, We try to make the magazine as, entertaining and informative as possible, so it is very gratifying when people do write to say thoy like it One such letter came in this week froma school by teacher, singing the praises of tho magazine in general and the PICAXE series of articles in par- ticular, He loves itand so do the students. But there was jarring sentence at the end: “I hope it’s OK to photocopy 20 sets of the article for my students.” ‘You would not believe how much that sentence hurt! Only a few min- utes before that I had signed off on this year's payment from the Copyright Agoncy Limited. The Copyright Agency is the legal body which oversees all photocopying done in universities, TAFEs, schools and libraries. On the basis of their recording of photocopying, the CAL makes on annual payment to publishers, All very well, you might say. And the amount to be paid SILICON CutP for the whole of 2004, for all photocopying in all the above institutions? $701.75, Unbelievable. In fact, there is massive under-recording of photocopying in all these in- stitutions and for years publishers have been complaining to the CAL that the whole system is severely inequitable, Some years ago, I spoke to a school teacher about this and given her knowledge of the extent of photocopying of magazine articles in her school alone, I asked her to estimate the annual copyright fee that would accrue to StuicoN CHIP. She said it would be huge but when I pressed her for an actual figure, she said $26,000. When I told her the actual fee for that year, she was astonished And while photocopying is rife in schools etc, what about all the pho- tocopying being done elsewhere, in company laboratories and so on? We cannot put a figure on the lost revenue every year but it would undoubtedly make a large contribution to our costs. All of this is a fact of life and we have no legal recourse, All we can do is point out to all those people so enthusiastically photocopying is that each and every photocopy represents a loss of revenue. The same comment ap- plies to all copying of course, whether it applies to magazine articles, books, CDs, software or whatever. Ultimately, this amounts to theft of intellectual property and it reduces the incentive for publishers of all media to continue in business, The music business is in very dire straits for this reason. So if you really like SILICON Cup, one of the very few magazines of its type in the world, please remember that it takes a lot of resources to produce this magazine to a high standard. If we are to continue to maintain and raise the standard and to provide the service that you want, we do need your support. Lotters of praise are nice but buying the magazine is more effective. And thanks to all those many thousands of enthusiastic readers who subscribe or religiously buy SILICON Gulp every month. Leo Simpson siliconchip.com.auJune Stocktake ( We'd rather ; sell thea than aan them! earance | Product of the month a Tig mer neat ie 15 ad 17 monte with standard VESA oes Naser pron yur new | Ain aug tom Iolo? Tis in USB to srl | ali dep, al ‘dates the anewet— cap ent |retec eters ons, cemmy see | exey a : ie ne Millay iinet sy Sorta none owen eta "ces Fenn sn nr rete frst o ton ws [te seas ost bons gzb and 920 Gta nr srr Jai Aral ese ar tne) ob ates ‘oat et ne ore den, etal cus see rsa ER rsa eal pec he. age Pig we operator dpa. Ca rooai2e.7 $280 Son ou san ny batten POA aPC car 0 put camposte vis as stro aud nd cone ce any botand cnc: ‘hem to Se, Sa 18 ton ana poet our ewok | TS ny LD screen i eat dois ao. veh thsterttenal fr apo eel aunts, at zaoot7 stae | aioiezy $128 | cat aB58-7 $680, | sateen ue ih 2a ‘hes aks te pd fore aw pry | Hepes yur emote cents ame, va sont naa our Ct 1006170-7 88 Key $0 al 1008978-7 105 ey. 879 ao RAIS ott an pop. a 2800-7, 108 a. wp Mrz What’s New? Tieden tance 2 uch neato tha se of ear a? 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PO inate. cat 1705-7 $249 Lt 4 MicroGram Com Ph: (02) 4389 8444 FreeFax: 1800 625 777 : See all these products & more on our website...www.mgram.com.aui|: putersMAILBAG Defence technicians not all valve jockeys Timust take you to task for allowing. publication of the snide remarks by Keith Walters in his article on “The Start of Colour TV in Australia”. May- be he found it necessary to spice up his, otherwise very interesting nostalgic. article by denigrating technicians from the war-time armed forces by includ- ingthem amongst his “infamous valve jockeys . .. often there were a lot of these somewhat pathetic individuals (often ex-military with no real theo- rotical background)” then continuing on with his smug comments right through to “I suppose as long as there ‘was a competent workshop to back thom up, they could usually be reliod upon to put in a reasonable day's field work". really take exception to these com- mentsas Iwas an RAAF WW2 Wireless, Maintenance Mechanic trained by the RAAF through the Melbourne Techni cal College by completing the college's normal 4-year radio mechanics’ course (still have my course certificate is- sued by the colloge). Tam not sure where the AIF wireless mechanics were trained or to whet standard but as far as T am aware, all of the RAAF and RAN wireless maintenance mechanics did the above extensive training through the Mel- ‘bourne Technical College (now RMIT), ‘As for the RAAF, after completing this course, we wore split up to progress into either wireless or RDF (now radar) maintenance. ‘We then undertook months of prac tical training in, both HF and VHF, aircraft and ground-based receivers, transmitters and antennas. Some of us were also trained in telephony. Now if Mr Walters as a “bright-eyed 19-year old raised on a diet of EA/ETI magazines” considered himself bet- ter theoretically trained, at the time, in radio theory than those of us who ‘went through the Melbourne Techni- cal College's training course and then spent years in the armed services ‘maintaining radio equipment, hemust have been a very smart fellow. How 4 SILICON CEP would he shape up these days faced with servicing one of the latest hi-tech amatour transceivers? Not quite as easy to service as a TV, As I was involved for many years in ‘TV servicing [am quite aware that, at first, there were many of the so-called “valve jockeys” as Mr Walters points out but at the time someone hed to fill, the gap until TV technicians could be trained. They soon passed into history. He should have let it go at that and refrained from trying to include or denigrate redio trained ex-servicemen in his slur. Yes many of them would hhave been struggling to come to terms with the arrival of the transistor age but training courses were available forthose interested enough to upgrade their skills, Ron Mills, VKSXW, via email. ‘Tsunami warning systems a problem ‘There is no doubt that the recent tsunami in the Indian Ocean was an enormous tragedy. However, I would like to comment on Mr Simpson's Publisher's Letter in the February 2005 issue. In deciding how best to reduce the impact of tsunamis in the future, the economic state of the area must be taken into account. As Mr Simpson pointed out, there are tsunami warn- {ing systems currently in place in the Pacific Ocean. However, the countries, with these systems (USA, Japan, etc) have the money to maintain these systems. Having been involved with the design and installation of dam flood forecasting systems in The Philip- pines and in North West Sumatra, 1am aware of the harshness of life in these areas. The cost of the installation and maintenance of these systems is very high relative to the average person's income. What makes these systems feasible is that they are associated with hydroelectric power stations which are a source of income for the ‘maintenance technicians, elaborate warning systems fortsu- namis are to be considered, the prob- Jem of expensive maintenance must be considered. In times of hardship, sometimes a permanent condition, it is very probable that the maintenance ofthis equipment will be neglected in many areas, The attitude would prob- ably be that “such a disaster couldn't possibly happen to us again!” still think waming systems should be considered but Ibelieve that simpler solutions should be implemented first. After the 1998 tsunami in Papua New Guinea, posters were placed around the towns, explaining how to identify an incoming tsunami, and what to do when it came ~ eg, “climb a coconut tree”, If people were better educated on how to identify a tsunami, people may be less likely to go and pick up fish on the beach, and more likely to run away. Posters are very cheap to maintain! Remember that Australia, a first world country and not so far from the New Zealand fault line, has no wam- ing system in place because ithas been considered difficult to justify. So let us proceed with tsunami forecasting but maybe delay a little to consider all the options. Peter Johnston, Coffs Harbour, NSW. Comment: ifthe reaction of the popu- lace to more recent severe earthquakes is any guide, it will be many years before complacency about tsunamis ever sets in. These regions will be very keon to have any warning systems available Matching the loop antenna to old radios At the end of the article on the Loop Antenna published in March siliconchip.com.au2005, you mentioned impedance dif- ficulties with direct connection to a radio. [used a Little Nipper I recently acquired and repaired (it’s the same as in Vintage Radio for September 2004 but with all the original knobs). Ithas no ferrite rod and presumably a very high impedance input. The loop performed very poorly. Ifound out that after connecting one nd of the variable capacitor directly to the aerial input of the valve radio and not connecting the other end, I had e good signal with a strong peak when the loop is tuned. The radio is earthed through the mains, after following your advice about using a cheap extension lead. The signal was quadrupled when Tconnected about a motre of wire as a short aerial to tho other end of the capacitor, without losing too much solectivity. The Little Nipper can now pick up well over 50 stations at night- timo that way, although some sulfer from fading. Before I had perhaps five without disturbance. AM radio listen- ing is now fun, Peter Mendelson, via email. Photocopiers are a treasure trove Thave found that discarded photo- copiers are a treasure trove for hobby robot builders. They contain power supplies that can beboxed up and used as is and one or more PC boards that contain reusable power transistors, hybrid module stepper motor control- lers, switches, LEDs, etc. They also contain large quantities of mechanical parts, loads of plain and ball bearings, gears and cogs, toothed drive belts, electromagnetic clutches, DC motors, stepper motors, reduction gear-boxes, many shafts and rollers and a multitude of solenoids. They also make use of a large quan- tity of infrared vane detectors and a smaller number of infrared proximity dotectors. Most of the proximity detec- tors only have a range of a few milli- metros (to detect if paper is present); only really good for line-following robots. However, ifyou are lucky, you find ones that have a range of about 50mm, ideal for short-range collision avoidance. Photocopier accessories such as siiconchip.com.au automatic collators contain mainly mechanical parts and are a good source of drive belts. Lids with document feeders always contain a good motor and a PC board with the drive transis- tors (noarly always an H-bridge) that go with the motor. ‘A bonus forbuilding robots is when you find two identical motors and gear- bboxes, as this is ideal for building a skid stoor base. Often, big companies will upgrade all of their photocopiers at the same time, meaning that if you are lucky you can get two ormore iden tical machines to dismantle, always a good scrounging result! ‘The most useful tool to have when reusing cogs and shafts is a small lathe. have the Jaycar lathe (Cat TL- 4000} which is ideal for modifying the parts Almost all motors in photocopiers run on 24V DG, They are assembled almost ex- clusively with M2 and M3 screws. Obtaining taps for these allows them to be reused, I hope this is useful to readers, Todd Noyce, RNZAF Whenuapai, NZ. Current transformers revisited I feel Imust contribute my tuppence worth to the debate in Mailbag on cur- rent transformers. [ am 50 years old and have been interested in electronics since I was a teenager. I have learned much from magazines like yours over the years. [have frequently found my- self dissatisfied when circuit explana- tions avoided the finer points because analysis would be considered too complicated for the average reader, Tam especially disappointed when the novice reader is left with confus- ing nd inaccurate analysis when there exists a relatively intuitive explana tion, which is not very complicated. ‘The problem with the three respons- es published in the April issue is that their arguments rely on the idealised transformer model which has infinite inductance and unity coupling b ‘tweon primary and secondary. They then try to explain away the inconsist- encies this creates when lookingat the transformer used in current mode. David Millist in the Merch issue correctly calculated that the second- Atmel’s AVR, from JED in Australia JED has designed a range of single board computers and modules as a way of using the AVR without SMT board design ‘The AVRSTO module (above) Is a way of using an ATmegat28 CPU on a user baso board without having to lay out the intricate, surface-mounted surrounds ofthe CPU, and then having to manufacture your board on {an SMT robotline.Insteadyou simply layout 1 square for four 0.1" spaced socket strips ‘and plug in our pre-tested module. The module has the crystal, resetter, AVR-SP. programming header (and an optional JTAG. ICE pad), a8 well as programming signal switching Fora ite extra, we oad DS 1305, TC, crystal and Li battery underneath, which uses SPI and port G. See JED's www site for a datasheet. |AVR573 Single Board Computer ‘This board uses the AVAS70 module and ‘adds 20 An Dig. inputs, 12 FET outs, LCD/ Kb, 2xAS222, 1HFIS485, 1-Wir, power reg, lc, See wwwjedmicro.comaulavrhtm $330 PC-PROM Programmer ‘This programmer plugs into a PC printer port and reads, writes and edts ary 28 or 52:pin PROM. Gomes with plug-pack, cable and sofware ‘Also avalableis amult-PROM UV eraser ‘with timer, and @ 32/32 PLOC converte. JED Microprocessors Pty Ltd 173 Boronia Rd, Boronia, Victoria, 3155, Ph, 03 9762 3588, Fax 03 9762 5499 www. jedmicro.com.au Jons 2005ary load resistor “R” in his current monitoring transformer will appear as @ primary load of “R/a2” where “a” is the turns ratio, The problem with this model is that when the secondary is open-circuit, this predicts an infinite resistance, even when reflected to pri- mary side, and consequently no cur rent can flow through the transformer or the primary load which is placed in series with it. MrDenniss in the April issue brings up this exact point but fails to analys it further. Mr Spencer in the same i sue explains that current transformers operate in a different mode to voltage transformers, a notion I totally reject. Alter introducing the concept of mag- netic flux induced by primary current, he goes on to say that the absence of secondary current means that the nor mal transformer rules cannot apply. If this was the case, what would one expect the secondary voltage to be on a voltage transformer, when the secondary is open-circuit? I have no doubt that it would be the primary voltage multiplied by the turns ratio and that the primary current could be calculated from the primary voltage, its waveform and the primary induct- ance. Assuming a sinewave primary voltage, i = w/wL; where w = 2n x frequency One gets a much better feel for the behaviour of transformers if you use a 4-port network model which is composed of an ideal transformer with. the appropriate turns ratio and an in- ductanco in parallel with the primary ‘which has the same inductance as the real-world transformer primary. ‘This model assumes that the real- world transformer has a coupling coefficient of unity and ignores other effects such as winding resistance, inter and intra-winding capacitance, losses due to induced currents in the core and core saturation. This model is developed in many text books on circuit theory (Hugh Skilling ~ “Elec- tric Networks” and Lawrence Huels- ‘man ~ “Basic Circuit Theory” are two examples) If one looks at the open second- ary current transformer using this model, it is immediately apparent 6 SILICON CrP that the secondary voltage is equal to the voltage drop across the primary inductance multiplied by the turns ratio. It should be noted however, that this voltage is dependent on the rate of change of primary current and so harmonics and transients from such things as electric motors may produce secondary voltages which are higher than expected. A short circuit, test load would leave the full mains voltage ecross tho current transformer primary until the fuse blew. I would have expected this to be destructive, despite fuse protection. ‘A secondary resistance R will have the same effect on the primary circuit fas. R/a® in parallel with the primary inductance. If this is small compared with the inductance at the frequency of interest, it will have the benefit of providing a resistive current monitor rather than an inductive one. In summary: use a secondary resist- ‘ance as this makes your current meas- ‘urement insensitive to frequency. You could equally put it in the primary but itwill have tobea lowor value and will, carry more current, perhaps leading to early failure, Peter King, East Doncaster, Vic. Powering devices from DC plugpacks ‘Thomas Scarborough's use of a diode bridge in his phugpack checker (Siticon Gir, April 2005) made me realise that this configuration could bo used to power oquipment from DC plugpacks of either polarity. In this respect, the arrangement is better than the protection diode included in the DC line in many designs. The small voltage drop across the bridge (about 1.25V at low currents) could also be useful, given the poor regulation of many plugpacks. The use of a diode bridge in the DC line seems obvious once one seas it but is not an arrangement which comes readily to mind. I wish the designers of my ‘old Panasonic cordless phone had in- cluded some protection against op- posite polarity voltages in their design. Some time ago, I inadvertently con- nected the DC plugpack supply from my broadband router into the phone base. A loud splat and a bright flash told me immediately that I had done something wrong. ‘The two pieces of equipment use DC phugpacks with the same voltage and current ratings but opposite polarity. Logic says there should be an agreed standard but apparently not, as [have seen a lot of commercial equipment ‘whore the central pin of the phugpack connector is negetive rather than the more usual positive, With my Panasonic phone, I did ‘manage to obtain a circuit and found that there is a transistor connected as a voltage regulator in the DC input line, Why a modern design would not use a voltage regulator with built-in protection is beyond me but that is another issue. I did hope that the regulator tran- sistor may have blown before the fol- lowing components were damaged. Replacing the transistor restored all the voltages to those shown on the circuit but the phone was still dead. ‘At this point, I realised I was fight- ing a losing battle and bought a new phone, A simple diode or diode bridge in series with the DC line could have avoided $100 down the drain. My only consolation is that I did not connect the phone plugpack into the broadband router; that could have been even more expensive. Brian Knight, via emai Endorsement of High Energy Ignition This is a note of thanks to John Clarke for his Universal High Energy Ignition System published in SILICON Chup, June 1998. My car is a Datsun 120Y vintage (almost) 1974 and during the winter of 1998 it chewed up a battery, a set of plugs, distributor points, rotor, distributor cap, distributor capacitor and a set of high tension leads. None of this fixed its stubbornness to start on a cold morning and its consump- tion was climbing to about a $1.00 a Kilometre. WhileI was declaringtomy wife, through a haze of blue air, that this car should be given a pension, T read John’s article. Timmediately purchased e kit from siliconchip.com.auDick Smith Electronies— anything was worth a try to stop the dollar haemor- rhage. It was easy to build and install and it still functions reliably today. ‘The only tuno-up since this time, aside from spark plugs, has been replacement of a set of points whose rubbing block wore out. It is a pleasure not to be adjusting points every three months and driv- ing a lively Datsun that has stopped chewing dollars. Thank you John! I'm a grateful fan, Bob Hammond, via'email. Radiator fan running after engine turn off ‘After reading the above lotter, was ‘moved to offer my advice as a qualified mechanic, In modern cars, thermo- siphoning just isn't applicable. That technology hasn’t been in a workable automotive application since about the 1920s (Ford model T & A models) and maybe a fow vintage tractors and stationary engines since. Further, aside from high perform- © Uses 3 Watt LEDs © Low power consumption, 300mA @12V @ Input 12-24VDC or 12-18VAC © 4 Shades of WHITE available © 16 Colours available ® Up to 60 Lumens light output ‘© Wide beam angle 110° © Total height 39mm (+ Pins) ance applications, thermo fans and auxiliary fans are just @ “band-aid” solution. My advice is for a cooling system overhaul which is really quite simple: full radiator and engine flush (until rusty water becomes cleat), thermostat check, fan operation (con- sider viscous coupling, if fitted). If the radiator is easily dismantled, core check and clean, otherwise consider a new core or radiator. Also don't forget your heater circuit. Paul M., Ararat, Vie. Basic theory of transformers T want to comment on the discus sion about current transformers in the March & April issues. Talk about ‘making transformers complicated; let's got back to basics. Start by assuming a perfect trans- former ~ no magnetising current, no core saturation, no winding resistance, etc. Now we can apply two simple rules to such a transformer: (a) the volt- ‘ago on one winding always appears on ET the other windings, scaled according to the tums ratio; and (b) the current into all windings sums to zero, after applying turns-ratio scaling. Both rules always apply so that a transformer is ALWAYS @ current transformer AND a voltage trans- former. What differentiates the two in the real world Is the intended application and therefore the design compromises. In a CT with an open-circuit sec ondary, the voltage on the second: winding will increase until one of the following events occur: (a) an alternative conductive path is found in the secondary winding ~ usually due to high-voltage-induced insula tion breakdown; (b) the full (primary source) voltage appears across the pri mary winding; or (c) the core saturates and the transformer ceases to behave 4s a transformer. Because ofthe way a CTis designed, (@) is far more likely to occur than eithor (b) oF (0) Dale Rebgetz, Belgrave, Vic. a-LED-Gen Drop-in MR16 LED replacements for standard Dichroic/Halogen Lamps © Long life >10,000 hours ‘® Conforms to IEC, CE & EN standards ‘@ Bediamp type and P68 housings available soon. es a t 1) 5 standard somm diameter. Fits ret into MAYS lamp housing PRIME siliconchip.com.au www.prime-electronics.com.au ‘BRISBANE 22 Campbell Strest Bowen Hills QLD 4008 Telephone: (07) 3252 7466 ELECTRONICS. Fesimis: 07 3282 ‘ote ‘SOUTHPORT Warehouse Rd 11 Brickworks Cntr, Southport QLD 4215 Telephone: (07) 5531 2599 Facsimile: (07) 5571 0543 a ) $95 ey Email us: sales @prime-electronics.com.au ‘SYDNEY 485 Parramatta Road Homebush NSW 2140 ‘Telephone: (02) 9704 $000 Facsimile: (02) 9746 1197 June 2005 7Witaiayou get for yo There is no doubt that laptops (or notebooks sei ur money ‘Toshiba Qosmio G10 f you wish) have grown in popularity in recent times. We thought it time to have a closer look at what you get for your money these days. e're actually looking at two “fairly” similar computers in this review. When we say fairly similar, they're both advanced laptops offering incredible features The biggest difference is one is a “big brand name" at or near the top of the price pile; the other was sourced from a supermarket at a (much!) lower price tag. Once, not so long ago, laptop computers were signifi- cantly more expensive than desktop models and suffered badly in performance comparisons as well. They're still more expensive — but now the margins are nothing like as wide ~ and the gap in performance has re- duced to the point where for most users it doesn’t matter too much, ifat all ‘Throw in the convenience factor of laptops and it's small wonder they have become the computer of choice for a wide range of users ~ everyone from business people on the go to ON CHIP students replacing notebooks with . . . notebooks! At SILICON CiiTP, when we review equipment such as com- puters, we're not so much looking at degrees of performance; we're more interested in the overall picture, what readers, would be interested in, what you get for your money and how well the equipment works in the real world, We generally leave A-B-C comparison tests, particularly when it comes to PCs, to those who aro best set up to con- duct them: You can find such tests in any of the myriad of com- puter magazines available in Austrelia (both locel and imported) ~ or you can also scan the ‘net and find report after report. A word of caution on the latter: you need to read these reports carefully because you usually don’t know if the reviewer has a vested intorest to report a certain way. The read it would appear that there might siliconchip.com.auBy Ross Tester be some consideration. Of course, there are also straight- up-and-down reports on the ‘net; just be picky and choosy what you read! Let's explain where the impetus for this review came from. It was actually at one of the exhibitions we regularly visit (we try to keep abreast of technology!) that one of the sales people showed us their brand new computer with more bells and whistles than you could jump over. “Ho-hum", I thought. “Another new computer”. Igener- ally don’t get too excited over new models. Maybe they're a Dit faster, maybe they're a bit cheapor. Maybe they're more snazzy looking. Maybe they're But my ears pricked up when the salesman started talking. about its major claim to fame: it used the “new” Microsoft Media Gontre operating system. He demonstrated some of the capabilities of this new system (at the time it was so new he didn’t really under- siliconchip.com.au stand all it could do; it was mostly the usual salesman “gee whiz” factor). But what I did see intrigued me. Microsoft Media Centre is an integrated system which effectively tums your PC into a multimedia home entertain- ‘mont contre Itcan easily become the heart of ahome theatre system or it can be used for personal entertainment. At the time, I'd read a little about Microsoft Media Centre and (wrongly, as it turned out) assumed that it was a product in its own right, available “off the shelf” like Microsoft's other operating system offerings. So 1 called Microsoft's PR agency and asked them for a review copy of the software, ‘The very nice lady at the PR company explained thet they couldn't do what I wanted because Microsoft Media Centre only comes “pre installed” on selected (suitable) computers. And by the way, its not actually called Microsoft Media Contre” (though that’s what it's become know as) ~“its correct JuNE 2005 9The most striking feature of the Toshiba Qosmio G10 is that big, beautiful, clear screen. It's a pleasure to work with. We weren't quite so impressed with having iver (on right). Shouldn't that be integrated? to plug in the remote control re name is Microsoft Windows XP Medie Centre edition.” Hey, I'm not surprised it’s usually abbreviated! ‘Toshiba Qosmio G10 By good luck or good management, another division of the same PR company looks after Toshiba, so she offered to send me one of the new Toshiba Qosmio (koz-mee-oh) G10 laptops fitted, of course, with Microsoft Windows XP Modia Contre odition,when it became available. This is one of Toshiba’s top-of-the-line laptops with a 17-inch screen. It took some time for one of these new machines to be- come available (they are in big demand amongst reviewors) but in due course, arrive it did. To say it was an impressive machine is an understate ‘ment! The first thing that strikes you is that huge screen ~a superb 17-inch WXGA (1440 x 900) CSV (a widescreen in ‘TV-spoak), capable of displaying 16:9 (widescreen) mov- ies perfectly. ‘And when you turn it on you notice just how good that screen is: big, bright and beautiful. (Toshiba claim to have special proprietary graphics chips built in to drive the screen, And it features two backlight tubes instead of the usual one) But computers need to be more than look good and have big screens, so we put the Toshiba to a variety of everyday tasks over the next couple of weeks until that inevitable phone call “We're sending a courier to pick it up tomor- OK, let’s lift the bonnet and have a look at what you get for your money. And it’s significant money, as we will discuss shortly. ‘Toshiba describe itas “the ultimate digital entertainment hub”. In a nutshell, itis fitted with a 2.0GHz Pentium M 10 SILICON Gre (Centrino) with 400MHz front-side bus and 2MB 1024MB DDR Ram (2048MB maximum), @ 160GB hard disk, a SuperMulti double layer DVD- R-RW, an NVidia Geforce FX Go5700 video “card” and Harmon-Kardon integrated spoakors (which, by urprisingly good given their obvious the way, sound size limitations) It comes with 802.11b/g wireless installed, along with Bluetooth, a V.92 modem and a 10/100 LAN (network) card. Sorry about keep referring these things to cards — force of habit - they're almost al- ways integrated on the mainboard these days ~ but you get the drift! Ono nice feature of the Wi-Fi isa switch on theside to easily disable it. Many machines require menu selection or asorias ofkeystrokes to do this —and it’s so easy to forget. IFyou're ona plane or in some other area where 2.4GHz wireless is a big no-no, just switch it off. Toshiba also call the Qosmio G10 “compact and portable”. ‘Umm, sort of like a wheelbarrow full of bricks is compact and portable. With that huge screen it’s certainly not too compact. Yes, it is portable but at a weight of more than 4kg you wouldn't want to lug it too far. With @ machine like this, we believe it’s more intended to be used as a desk- top replacement, cable of being moved around as required but not really the type of mach you'd want to bring home from the office each night nor take on holidays. In fact, due to its size and the A/V features it offers, we'd think of it more as the “works” of a home entertainment system. It was more than large enough to sit and watch in its own right - but if you want to, it's a quick plug-in to your larger TV set, home theatre system, ote. ‘A.17-inch screen is roughly equivalent in size to a 43cm ‘TV set which, as readers would know, is larger than many people have as their “second” set. And one thing we haven't mentioned yet is the fact that the Qosmio has full VF and UHF TV capability built in — so it can be your second TV set (or even your first in a flat or small living room!) XP Media Centre edition helps you organise you photos, music etc and then either access them dir via the remote control, or program them for la siliconchip.com.auOne criticism you often see about Microsoft Media Centre is its inability handle digital TV. A pity, really: you get so much digital control in this machine but you can't take advantage of digital television features! With @ DVD player/writer/rewriter built in, you aren’t limited to the rub- bish the TV channels are throwing at us lately. The TV tuner even has @ remote control so couch potatoes need not worry . .. The DVD, incidentally, is a beauty: CD-R and -RW plus DVD-R, +R, -RW and +RW-—and even dual layer DVDR. ‘One negative on the DVD is, like most brand-name DVDs, it is regioned. Personally, [find it offensive that manu- facturers dare to tell me that I can only watch a pre-recorded DVD thet they say Ican watch —that is, one sold for rogion 4 (Australia/NZ ete) Yes, you can change the region a limited number of times but once that number is up, you are stuck in that region. If you happen to be watchinga region 1 (US)DVD at the time, all your Austral- ian DVDs are effectively coasters! (For most stand-alone DVD players there are firmware “hacks” available on the ‘net to defeat this ridiculous zoning, So far I haven't dis- covered one for the Qosmio but I dare say it will happen eventually). ‘As faras A/V features are concerned, it’s hard to separate the “hardware” from the “software”, You get connectivity for just about every application, in and out. And Microsoft ‘Media Centre allows you to control (remotely if you wish —a remote control is included) every aspect ~ whether you are watching TV, recording hours of TV to hard disk for later watching (no, you wouldn’t do that would you, that's illegal) or editing home movies. In fact Microsoft Media Centre means a PC retains 100% of its computer functions for when you need those but it also turns it into a device which can organise and manage your music, videos, photographs, etc and all the devices ‘which gather these for you, such as video and still cameras, music sources, etc. It's the ultimate in work and play! It also effectively tums your PC into a Personal Video Rocorder (PVR) so, with a large enough hard disk, you don't need to buy another video recorder (digital or otherwise). ‘We said before that Microsoft Windows XP Media Centre edition is only available pre-installed on selected PCs- and the Microsoft Website confirms that. But I have discovered a US website where they are selling Windows XP Media Centre Edition 2005 ~“assuming” you are a system builder! Price is usually $US134 but at time of writing (late April) it was on special at SUS119.99, plus $US38.99 for the re- mote control ifyou want one, (See http:/shop.store.vahoo, a at ‘Oh, they do require you to purchase (at the same time) some piece of hardware to qualify as a “system builder” siliconchip.com.au Not quite as large a screen on the Medion MD 95400 and you have to plug the TV receiver in (that’s it on the side), But it does handle digital as well as analog! We found the glidepad took a bit of getting used to, too. But this computer offers exceptional value for money. = like a used mouse for $US1.98! No, we're not kidding! Now, while on the subject of price, let's look atthe Toshiba Qosmio G10. List price is $5999 - that’s right, one dollar change from six thousand hard-to-get ones, You get a very large, powerful machine witha magnificent screen, with just about everything you could want built in or in the box. But ‘we still choke a bit (no, a lot!) on six thousand dollars. OK, so what's the alternative? Medion MD95400 ‘Around the same time as the Toshiba laptop arrived, ‘we noticed an advert in our local paper from the German- based “Aldi” supermarket chain, Featured product was their “Medion” brand laptop computer, selling for $2399. ‘And the list of both features and inclusions was certainly impressive. ‘Medion appears to be an Aldi “house” brand—or at least they are the only distribution outlet for Medion, ‘Aglanceat the (limited) information in the advert suggested thatthe Medion wasone very powerful machine and appeared to compare quite well with the Toshiba we were reviewing +. at well under half the prico! It’s sold as a “widescreen multimedia entertainment notebook" ~ nat a Microsoft Media Centre notebook be- cause, naturall, ‘Alot more information was available on the Aldi website so we logged on and downloaded the PDF. Boy, was that a surprise - apart from the Medion having a 15.4-inch, WXGA (1260 x 800) screen — not too shabby itsolf, and not offering Microsoft Media Centre, “only” Windows XP Home Edition (SP2), the Medion appeared to offer even more than the Toshiba. So we called Aldi (and that's no mean believe us!) JuNs 2005 11and when we finally talked to a human, suggested they might like to submit one of their ma- chines for a comparison with the Toshiba. ‘A week or so later Medion Australia contacted us and told us they'd be delighted to sond us a laptop for review. When it arrived, we still had the Toshiba = so comparisons were obvious. Yes, the screen is smaller (1.6 inches mightn'tsound like much but side-by-side it certainly looks that way). On the plus sido, that makes it a significantly smaller machine overall. It is also lighter ~ at 3.3kg, it's nearly 25% lighter than the Toshiba, ‘One other major difference is that the TV “receiver” for the Medion is not built-in, as it is for the Toshiba. It’s an add-on. device which slides into the PC slot on the side of the computer with a separate lead plugging into the adjacent USB port. On tho plus side, this TV tuner does handle digital TV as well as analog. I's also an FM radio tuner (watching radio on a computer? Hmmm!) Its processor isn’t quite as fast as the Toshiba, with a 1.7GHz Intel Pentium M735 mobile processor. Ithas 512MB of DDR RAM. The DVD is similar (8x multi-format with dual layer support) and there are four USB2.0 ports. Like the Toshiba, it offers in-built wireless (802.11b and g) and Bluetooth but it also offers Firewire (IBEE394).It too ‘has a 10/100 network controller and a 56K/V.90 modem. ‘As woll as its two integrated speakers they claim ithasan inbuilt subwoofer (I'm not quite sure where!) and 6-channel audio out (analog and 2x digital) with ATI Mobility Radeon 97008E sound, itself with 128MB DDR RAM, One feature we found particularly useful is the 8-in-1 card reader which can handle Compact Flash I and II, IBM Microdrive, XD Picture Card, SD Card, MultiMedia Card, Memory Stick and Memory Stick Pro. We've already mentioned the PC slot (PCMCIA if you're an old timer); other interfaces include a VGA out (also dou- bles.as DVI out with the adaptorincluded), TV out, Firewire, LAN, modem, microphone, line-in, speaker rear, audio out (or $/P-DIF optical), digital coax out and infrared out Other hardware included is an infrared remote control, @ stereo headset microphone and a USB scroll mouse. It’s when you start looking at what else you get with the Medion MD 95400 that the value becomes obvious, Actu- ally, it jumps up and screams at you! Along with Windows XP Home Edition SP2, you also get Microsoft WorksSuite 2005 and MS Flight Simulator 2004; Nero Burning ROM 6, Nero RECODE 2-SE (DVD copying software), Videon video and photo presentation software); eTrust AntiVirus and Symantec System Recovery, In addition, there is Medion HomeCinema which itself contains six programs for video and audio applications this ph (included in pack: (PCMCTA) slot on While of bei 12 SiLIcoN CHIP Unlike the Toshiba Qosmio, where the TY tuner is built-in, the Medion requi -in TV and radio tuner modul ). the side of tu computer and the USB cable plugs into an adjacent ‘USB port. The whip antenna can be replaced by a TV antenna connection. ‘snot quite Toshiba, the Medion has the advantage able to handle both analog and digital TV signals. The Toshiba cannot handle digital TV (actually, it’s Microsoft Media Centre that ‘cannot handle digital). (PoworDVD 6, Power Cinema, Power Director 3.0SE, Power Producer 3, Medi@Show and Mu- sicmatch Jukebox. We weren't overly pleased to see AOL 7.0 pre-installed, having had sad experience with AOL ef- foctively hijacking machines in the past and then not letting itself be uninstalled, That was some time ago; pethaps AOL has listened to the screams of anguish around the world. While the Medion HomeCin- ema might not be quite as tightly integrated as Microsoft Media Centre, there didn’t appear to be too much that you could do with one that the other couldn't, We would have liked more time to play with Medion HomeCentre to more adequately determine its full capabilities. But deadlines loom large! Tt plugs into the PC ‘convenient as the In use We wore very impressed with both machines. Both did every- thing with aplomb and there were very few negatives. ‘We've already mentioned DVD zoning (the Medion had the same “problem” as the Toshiba - the manufacturers probably call ita feature!) ‘We found the glidepad on the Medion took some getting used to — it has a pseudo “wheel” built into the glidepad which we kept drifting on to and finding we were trans- ported somewhere else! The glidepad on the Toshiba had different problems for us - it is “intuitive”, reading certain actions (such as tapping your finger) and translating them into some other function. It’s lot different to simply mov- ing your finger over the pad. You can turn this function off but as this was a review machine, we thought it best to leave it set In both cases, enough experience would iron those minor difficulties out. It's just that we are used to cither a no-frills glidepad or a button “mouse”. Remember too that the Medion does come with a USB mouse for those who, like us, might be digit-ally challenged! (Of course you could always fit a USB mouse to the Toshiba — these meeces are pretty cheap those days). Both machines offered the serious computer user virtual desktop performance but with the advantage of being fully portable. Throw in their multimedia capabilities and they really do offer the best of both worlds. “Fantastic” is a hackneyed word these days. But we believe that while the Toshiba is a fantastic machine; the Medion is not far behind and offers fantastic value for money, That rather significant price tag of the Toshiba really concerned us. $6000 can buy you almost half a small car these days! 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, PO Box 69 Oatley NSW 2223. [major eredk cards accepted, Post & Pack typically $7 Prices subject to change without notice ACN 068 740 081 ABN18068 740 081 ———— SS SSS TEGETTING INTO Part 2: setting up an ad-hoc wireless network by Ross Tester With WiFi hardware prices way down and Windows XP virtually doing it all for you, there’s no excuse not to set up a wireless network at home or in the office. The simplest network of all is the ad-hoc network. looked at the differences between the various wireless notworking standards. Fortunately, setting up the two most popular, 802.11b and 802.11g, is pretty much identi- cal. All you have to do is decide which type of wireless network you require, However, there is more to 802.17 than simply faster speed. They also (usually!) offer higher performance than 802.11b (see separate panel, “It’s more than just speed”) To briefly rocap, thero are two types of basic wireless networking: ad-hoc and infrastructure, For either type, for each computer to be connected to the ‘wireless network you'll need a Wireless Network Adaptor (they're also known by a variety of other names, such as a Wireless NIC, or network interface card; Wireloss Dongle, Wiroless Card and so on) Many computers these days, especially newer laptops, come with the adaptor built in. But even many mother boards today offer integrated 802.11g facilitis. Ifall you want to do is share files between computers, perhaps print a document on one computer via a printer attached to another, that’s all the hardware you will need. I's called an ad-hoc network. It’s also sometimes called a peer-to-peer or computer-to-computer network. Ifyou want fo use your wireless network for more advanced tasks - to connect to the internet or to another network, for example ~ an infrastructure network may be required. And forthat, you need another piece of hardware called an access point (AP). (Again as we said last month, access points can be entirely software ~ see separate panel, “SoftAPs”). ‘And just to clarify one thing: just now (and last month) [ our introduction to practical WiFi last month we 14 SiuicoN Grup we said that if you want to connect to the internet, you may need an infrastructure network. We also said last month that Windows XP takes much of the hard work out of setting up any form of network (including wireless). Well, Windows XP goes even further than simplifying con- nection. It also allows you, via the “Sharing a Connection” option, to connect to the internet using an ad-hoc network. The steps are explained elsewhere but it is quite simple. Client, server, host, peer-to-peer Before we get too much further, there are @ couple of terms which you will find again and again so we should explain them, We just mentioned a couple of them — peer to peer (which simply means that the routing for the data is taken care of by the computers themselves, not by other hardware). The other terms you'll often come across are “client” “host”, Usually, a client is simply the user’s computer which accesses remote services on another, perhaps more powerful, computer. That computer is often referred to as the “host” but can also be known as a “server” The name comes from the days when PCs were not as powerful as they are today. Organisations usually had one larger, faster, more powerful computer which handled most of the data manipulation it was known as a server — and the computers which were networked to it relied on it for some, or most, or all, of their operation. In fact, often they weren't really computers at all; they were dumb terminals which relied totally on the sorver to do all their “thinking” for them. There were also “print servers” whose sole (or main) job was to drive the printers siliconchip.com.auof the day. The torm stuck when these new-fangled personal computers came on the scene! Think of the “host” as the main computer in your net- work. If you have an internet connection, it will be the computer which has that connection, Think of the “clients” as all the other computers. Why are we mentioning this here? Just to save confu- sion later Setting up an ad-hoc wireless network The first thing to do when setting up any network ~ wired or wireless ~ is to draw a diagram of it. Here’s @ tip: use a drawing program on your PC to do it that way you will have it in the future if you need to refer to it, Yes, you'do have a drawing program ~ “Paint” is more than adequate for the task. Of course, higher level programs will do even better: Give your network a name ~ a bland name which won't arouse much suspicion if it is cracked is best ~ but write it down so that you remember it when it comes to adding the other computers to the network. ‘This name can be something familiar, such as “johns network” ~ but it’s not wise to use your address (you may end up with mors than bandwidth burglars!). Asshown in the diagram published last month, an ad-hoc network has each of the computers directly talking to each, other. There is no “intermediary” access point as there is in an infrastructure network The first computer is assumed to be the “host” computer, with all others the “clients”. You need to set up the host computer first. XP.or install disk? There are two ways to sot up the ad hoc network. One, the way explained here, is to let Windows XP do it for you. It’s quite simple and Windows tries pretty hard to stop you making @ mistake, The second way is to use the installation software pro- vided with your wireless adaptor. Some wireless adaptors are pretty specific about NOT using Windows to set it up, probably because the installation program also loads its ‘own drivers and perhaps proprietary software to give more features than Windows. One of the wireless adaptors wo obtained from Dick Smith Electronics (NZ) came with a warming to use the installetion disk, not Windows. Being the ornery types we are, we tried it both ways on different computers. Guess which method of the two didn't work? (Infact, the Windows method caused us all sorts of grief which took some time to work through). It’s up to you: if the card documentation specifically warns you about using Windows, we'd probably go with that documentation, If it is non-committal or doesn’t even mention it, wo'd go with Windows. The Windows XP route Turn the computer off and install the wireless adaptor, what ever its incamation (USB dongle, PC card, etc for & laptop or desktop, internal wireless card for a desktop, etc). ‘Tum the computer on and Windows XP will automati. cally detect the card and install its drivers. In some cases, Windows might not be able to find the drivers but unless you've acquired the card froma dubious source, it will come siliconchip.com.au 802.11b vs 802.11g — Stan shows it may be more than just speed! Last month, we stated that 802.11"g" offers significant speed advantages over the older 802.11°b" standard—a raw throughput of S4Mbps versus 11Mbps — as well as some advantages in the way it handles the packets of data. But there is even more to It than that. Following further experimentation with USB "b” and adaptors, itis apparent that at least the "g” devices I've tried also offer superior weak signal reception. ‘Compare the Netstumbler* graphs below. A Genius GW-7200U"g" (~AUS50) showed about 10dB better signal levels, from an obscured acess point (AP) 100m away, ‘when trialled beside a classic DSE Zydas “b’. When placed at the focal point of a 300mm cookware parabola (see “WiFry’, SILICON CxiP, September 2004) and directed over NZ's Wellington harbour, the USB. Genius “g’ later found many previously undetected APs (atapproximately -80dBi) some 10km line-of-sight (LOS) away as well. However, the limiting factor now looks to be one’s weak ‘outgoing signal (the Genius is only 16dBm or 40mW), meaning powerful remote access points may be heard but NOT connected to. ‘Argh! Just because you can detect them (via Netstum- bier etc) doesn’t mean they can hear YOU, since their reach is greater than yours. Either a costly (and possibly illegal) transmitter booster would now be needed, or improved focusing for your weak outgoing signal via a higher gain antenna, * Netstumbler ww.netstumblar.com is invaluable for adaptor testing, AP detection, site coverate auditing and even antenna tweaking, while the Pocket PC “WiFiFoFum” (WFFF) www, -aspecto-Software.com/WIEiEoFum/also allows more convenient compact PDA-based monitoring. Both are free downloads. Using Netstumbler to compare the “Genius” GW7Z00U WIFI adaptor (“g") with the Zydas (""), with and without the ““WiFty” parabolic scoop reflector. They're looking at the same access point, about 100m away, through trees and buildings. Although the scoop gives around the same gain (-15dB) with each USB adaptor, the (newer) “a” dongle is showing far superior weak-signal performance (and therefore range?). June 2005(a Cees Avalable networks: “To-connect to, disconnect fom. orfind cut more formation about vteess networks range, click the button below. Prefered networks: ‘Aatomaticaly connect to avaiable network inthe order ated >% medion computer (Automatic) A 4 Marvel-AP32 (tomatic) %% Unitled (Automatic) Fig.1: this computer has accessed a variety of wireless networks in the past —hence the list. Notice the little red “X" ‘through the icon. That means it can’t find them at the moment. with drivers (usually on a CD). The computer will then look for wireless networks in range and if it finds any, automati- cally display a list of them in a box called “Wireless Network Connection Properties”, If, by chance, it does display them, don’tconnecttto any of them you want itto connect to YOUR wireless network, not someone else ‘We'll assume that there are no wireless networks in your neighbourhood, soit won't find any. The “Preferred networks” field should be blank. If your computer previously connected toanoarby wireloss notwork (og, somewhere else!), make sure you disconnect it (use the disconnect tab). Previously found networks will almost certainly be listed Fig.2: we want this to be an ad hoc (ie, computer-to- computer) network. Here's where we select this option. 16 Swicon CrP Network name (SSID); [Ford Prefect Wiles network key ‘This network requres a key forthe folowing Fig.3: now we're adding the new wireless network - it’s called “Ford Prefect”. At the moment, we've disabled encryption to make sure the network gets up and running without hassles. but if they aren’t in range, there should be a small red cross through their symbol, as shown above. Now click on the “Advanced” tab (top of window). Select “computer to computer (ad hoc) networks only, and if the “automatically connect to non-preferred networks” box is ticked, untick it (again, to make sure you connect to your ad hoc network). ‘Now click on the “Wireless Networks” tab again. See the “add” box down below. Click it and type in your network name (the one you wrote down before) in the box marked Network name (SSID). SSID stands for Service Set Identi- fior - and now that you know that, forget it, Just think of protected. siliconchip.com.auFig.5: one of the easiest ways to check that the network is working is to check that packets are received as well as sent. That means another computer can talk to yours. SSID as meaning network name! Just for the moment (and only for the moment!) we're not, going to turn WEP on just yet. Despite our dire warnings Tast month, it does add one more thing to go wrong when sotting up the network. So until we have everything work- ing, leave it off, ‘Your host computer installation is now complete. The SSID should now be displayed in the “Preferred networks” field. But there will be a red "X" displayed, telling you that there are no other computers (yet!) in the wireless network within range. Setting up the client computer Basically, it’s just a matter of repeating the above steps for each computer you want to add to your ad hoc network. ‘The main difference is that you don’t need to put in the SSID because when the two computersare in wireless range, the SSID should automatically come up in the “available networks” window. Select configure, tur off WEP and you should find that the computers can talk to each other. It really is that simple! Turn WEP (or preferably WPA) on... ‘Now that it’s all working, it's timeto go back and turn WEP. (Wired Equivalent Privacy) on. As we said last month, WEP stops the casual snooper from getting into your system and either using your bandwidth or perhaps doing something nasty. WPA (WiFi Protected Access) is much more robustand, if your hardware will allow it, WPA is much preferred. fusing WEP, starting with the host computer, click on the Wireless Network Properties tab and click on “Data encryption (WEP enabled)”. siliconchip.com.au New electronics'sottware it Usa ' TeMioce mon | Ss cond simulatingfelecroniccigy a Ree timo OU Q For free demonstration|software, please RISC ace iia CHOMP aM E Most modern wireless adaptors support 128-bit encryp- tion the more bits, the harder itis to break. Older adaptors may only support 64-bit - Windows XP will automatically detect this in most cases and not let you enter 128-bit. Yournetwork key ideally should consist ofrandom letters and numbers (some setups do allow plain English which is then used to generate a key). Don't be tempted to uso birthdays or addresses — you want something that cannot be guossed. And remember to write it down somewhere on your network plan, for example? Repeat the setup for all computers on the network Re- ‘member that if you get a key wrong, the computer will not be able to talk to the others. ‘As mentioned, WPA is definitely preferred —use it ifyou can, It's a lot more difficult to hack (vital if using the net for business and/or finance) and has plain word generation of the encryption key. ‘A salutory warning Remember last month I mentioned that I was sharing internet access with my next-door neightbour? A couple of wooks ago, my computer started grabbing a completely unprotected wireless network, giving me full broadband At first I thought my neighbour’s AP had somohow rosot itself without WEP ~ but no, it all checked out properly. A few days later, when talking to my neighbour on the other side I asked if he had recently installed a WiFi net- work. He looked at me as if I had two heads, both spoak- ing Swahili - so I took that as a “no”. But his son, who ‘was listening in, sheepishly said “Umm, yeah, Ihave ...” JUNE 2005-47Protect my computer and network by lining erpreventing access to ths computer fem the ltemet Intemet Connection Sharing | Alow other network users to connect through this ‘computer’ Intemet connection ewok Users Coil Gr ables) omer OEE a eam more abou ntemet Connection ‘Shaina {yout nat ae how tat ve propane the Netwod Setuo Wizard stead, “Association | Authentication |, Network name (SSID). [Ford Prefect Wireless network key Tis nator reqaes key forthe flowing Network Atherticaton: [Open Date encryption: (wer Network key Conti network key Keyindes edvanced): [1 5) The key i provided forme automaticaly Fig.6: here's where you turn on your Windows firewall (essential!) and allow other computers internet access via the Internet Connection Sharing check box, SoftAPs — Winmodenms all over again? Need tolink several WiFi users with a barebones budget? You ‘may not even need an AP (access point)! ‘We mentioned last month that access points can be “con- structed” entirely in software. Suitable programs can convince ‘some WiFi cards tacts. software based “soft AP", promising instant multi-user laptop based WLANS that suit on-the-road ‘meetings, events ete ‘Although such programs, especially HostAP and AgileAP, are popular under Linux., Windows versions are still evolving, with PCtel's US$20 “softAP” (www.petel.com) perhaps best known. ‘As well as an always-on PC, you'l stil need a wireless card but the approach saves carrying yet another piece of equipment ‘when on the road. Many new Asian-sourced “9” WiFicardsinreasinglyoffersuch "soft AP" option as well as the normal adaptor function. Although thisidea has appeal for experimenters and light duty residential user, it rather harks back to hybrid-software-based \Wing8 56K “WinModems” ofthe late 1990s ~the cause of much hairpuliing and teeth-gnashing in dial-up modem days. It also has considerable soope for mischief, since an oth- erwise innocent-looking laptop may tempt nearby Wifi users ta log on (perhaps even automatically) and divulge sensitive password detais. Given the rapid fallin hardware-based AP costs, “soft APS" ‘may have limited appeal, although the feature may well come ‘inbuilt with future motherboards and operating systems. (From Stan Swan) 18 SILICON Gri lly, when you're happy that everything is ‘working as it should, don’t forget to turn data encryption back on again, on all computers on the network. Neighbour then said “I guess we have then!” I think both were a bit shocked when I told them I had full ‘net accoss via their WiFi setup! “Sharing the Connection” under Windows XP ‘This assumes that you have successfully set up the ad-hoc network, 1. Open Network Connections on the host computer. (Click Start, Control Panel, Switch to classic view, and then click Network Connections. 2. Click the connection to be shafed and under Network Tasks, click Change settings of this connection. 3. On the Advanced tab, select the “Allow other network users to connect through this computer's Internet connec- tion” check box. 4. Ifyou are not using a third party firewall and have not already set up the Internet Connection Firewall (ICF), be sure to check the box enabling this feature. 5. Finally, enable the sotting to let other users control or enable this connection if you wish that to be possible. Infortunately, space has beaten us —we had hoped to cover AP infrastructure networks as well this month — but that will have to be another time! so NEXT PART: Ae ncn Rd ie cues am ‘some high-gain antennas and tricky gear from eee URE eee eee Se eee Sn siliconchip.com.auYour Name. PERSEPAIT Organisation (if applicable) Address. Postcode. Daytime Phone Wo.( ) Email address (it applicable) Method of Payment: CCheque/Money Order C) Bankcard CVisa Card Q Master Card LLLLILIII ILL IJLttt LULL Signature, Card No. Card expiry date: Item Description Pease state month 0 start usta tye $483 yes sateo 1 yr + binder ‘$96.50 2 yrs Binds” SATEE NZ@ yt $188 yrs 58178 Overseas (3) Tyr woes SATSS. 2s $1260 * SILICON CHIP BACK ISSUES i stock: 10% discountfor 10 ‘ormore issues orphotacopies. Australia: $A8.80a (nelud- ing p&p). Overseas: $A10 each (including p&p by a) “ELECTRONICS AUSTRALIA: project photocopies, limited bck sues, 10% discount for 10 or more issues or photo- copies. Austra: $48.80 each (including p&p). Overseas: SATO ea (inclusing p&p bya). ‘BINDERS: BUY 5 or more and get them postage fee (Avallable in Aust ony): $A12.95 each plus $7 p&p per ido. “ELECTRONICS PROJECTS FOR CARS, VOL.2: Aust. SA14.95; NZ/AsiayPad c $418.00 inciuding p&p (ar) ‘sewiere $2150, (All ries include p&p). 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You tend to ignore the central 4-digit display and just concentrate on that magical circular LED performance, At the beginning of each minute, each successive LED races anti-clock- wise around the periphery to take up its position as the seconds count builds up. As the seconds count nears 26 SILICON CHIP 30, each new LED only has to traverse half the circle and so each LED makes its circuit slightly slower than the last until finally, as the count approaches, 60, the last few LEDs make the transit very slowly indeed. But each LED transit around the circle, whether it covers tho whole 360° or just a few, takes exactly one second. So you find yourself wondering just what fancy machinations have been pulled to achieve that? The an: swer is, of course, that there is a fancy by SCOTT MELLING* *Grantronics Pty Ltd. jontroller calling all the shots. But even knowing that and having considered all the programming that must have gone into it, you still tend to sit there mesmerised by this clock. You just have to see it but be warned ~ when you do, you will probably want one! Apart from that magic circular LED array, this wall clock also has a 4-digit readout with 12 or 24-hour operation. It also features an alarm with piezo sound and opto output, a battery backup for time-keeping and alarm functions, AG meins synchronisation and crystal timebase for precise tim. ing, an efficient switchmode supply powered by a 12V AC plugpack and a high quality double-sided, screen: printed and solder-masked PC board with plated-through holes, What more could you want? The hours and minutes display ists of the four large digits in the siliconchip.cocentre of the clock face. It can be set to display either 12 or 24-hour time, depending on the position of a single jumper link (JP1). On the righthand side of the minutes digits is an AM/PM indicator LED and this is active for PM hours if the 12-hour display mode is chosen. The timing uses a crystal oscilla- tor for short term accuracy with the chaser control and is synchronised to the mains AG cycles when present for Jong term accuracy. The clock’s alarm features need ex- plaining. Apart from the piezo buzzer that can be set to sound as an alarm, there is an optocoupler output which allows the clock to trigger an externa device. Once both or either of these outputs has been enabled and becomes active, they can be reset by pressing any of the three time-setting buttons on the back of tho clock There is provision to connect a backup battery to the clock for periods when the mains power fails. When running from the backup battery, the LEDs are not illuminated, to enhan: battery life, Unlike many other de- signs, however, the alarm output and opto output will still activate during a mains power failure. The battory backup circuit also includes a charging facility so that NiMH or Nicad cells can be used. There are three buttons on the back of the clock labelled UP, MODE and DOWN. The functions of these buttons vary depending on which “mode” the clock is currently displaying, Menus and setup When AG power isfirst applied, the clock will power up end proceed to run, beginning with a default time of 0:00 and 0 seconds. This is the “run” mode, identified by the standard LED ng pattern described above In all other “utility” modes, as set the MODE button, there is a very by different chase sequence to indicate you are not in “run” mode. In th time-hours set” mode, the hou digits display as “Ch”. You can then press the UP and DOWN buttons to set the clock's hours. In “time-minutes set” mode, the hours digits display as “C" and press- ing the UP and DOWN buttons allow the clock’s minutes to be set In “alarm/opto enable” mode, the UP button toggles the alarm on and off. When enabled, the hours digits ip.comau OMe iB} Four seconds into the minute. At the start of each second, the chase LED starts at the top and travels anti- ‘clockwise around the clock face, as indicated by the green arrow. ‘Thirty seconds into the minute. The chase LED is now really starting to slow down, since it has much less distance to travel in 1s. (Coming down the straight... the chase LED moves very slowly during the last few seconds of the minute. show “AL.” The DOWN button toggles the opto output on and off. When this, is enabled, the minutes digits reads “AU. In “alarm-hours set" mode, the hours digits display “Ah” while in alarm-minutes set” mode, the hours Eighteen seconds into the minute. ‘The chaser LED is shown here travelling anti-clockwise past the 40s mark. Note: the green arrow is not part of the clock display. Forty-seven seconds in and the chase LED is getting slower and slower. It now travels less than 45° of arc in one second. Finished - 60 seconds is up and the minutes digit “ticks” over. The seconds LEDs now go out and the chase sequence starts aga digits display “A .” Using the UP and DOWN buttons in both modes allows the clock’s hours or minutes display to be set for alarm triggering. The same comments apply to the “opto-hour set” mode (display “Hh”) and “opto-minutes set” (display “H’’).ciate ‘The LED clock comes as a complete kit of parts and includes a double-sided plated-through PC board with a solder mask and When triggered, both the audible alarm and the opto output are disabled by pressing any of the pushbuttons. Circuit description ‘The brain behind the operation of the clock is an Atmel ATMEGA8515- 16PC microcontroller ~ see Fig.1. It runs at 8MHz, which gives approxi- mately 8MIPS throughput with a ma- chine cycle of 125ns ~ eat your heart out Microchip! The PC board layout was actu- ally designed for the now obsolete ‘Atmel AT90S8515, together with its MC34064P-5 under-voltage sensor (U4), but the ATMEGA8515 is a drop- in replacement. Italso incorporates an on-chip under-voltage detector which has made the MC34064P-5 redundant. ‘The ATMEGA8515-16PC will operate happily down to 2.7V, relying on its own internal brownout detector The short-term timing ofthe clock is derived from an 8MHz crystal but this may drift slightly over several months. To help combat the drift problem, the micro samples the AG mains supply, comparing this cycle count every hour to the expected cycle count for the 50Hz (or 60Hz) AC supply, If itis close to being in syne, the assumption is that there has boon some small drift and the micro is re-synchronised. If thore is a large difference, the as- sumption is that the AC mains supply 28 SILICON Cur Ik-screened overlay. is not present or was not present for a part of the last hour's operation, and the synchronisation process isskipped for thal time around. LED arrays All of the LEDs on the clock face, excopt the LED that sits in parallel with the buzzer, are in three 5 x 7 matrices. Each LED in each matrix is individually controllable except in the case of the digits whore each segment is controllable, Seven bits of ports A, Cand D on the ATMEGA8515, are used to drive three ULN2003 7- way Darlington transistor drivers (ie, driving three matrices), ellowing the clock to multiplex up to 21 LEDs on at any one time, ‘There are five BD682 PNP transistors on the supply side of the LED arrays, breaking it into parts that can be time division multiplexed with about a 20% duty cycle. The base cycle time used is Ims, so each LED (if required) ison for ims in every Sms. The associ- atod 2200 resistors limit the current in any LEDs that are active. Display format The 3-way pin header labelled JP1 is used to control the display format, —ie, whether the clock shows 12-hour or 24-hour time, If pins 2 & 3 are left open circuit, the clock operates in 12- hour mode and the AM/PM indicator LED (LD61) is onabled (ie, it lights after 12 0'clock midday). Conversely, short- ing pins 2 & 3 with a jumper converts the clock to 24-hour operation and disables the AM/PM indicator LED. Programming header ‘As well as JP1, Fig.1 also shows a 6-way pin header connected to pins 9, 6,8 &7 of the microcontroller. This header was included during develop- ment to allow for in-circuit program- ming of the microcontroller and has boon retained for those who like to experiment. Most people will not want this facil ity, in which case the pin header can be left off the PC board Power supply Power for the clock circuit is de- rived from a 12VAC plugpack and bridge rectifier DB1. The resulting unfiltered 16-17V rail from DB1 is then fed via diode D1 to a 2200KF filter capacitor and to pin 1 (Vin) of an M2575 switching regulator, US. This IC produces a regulated +5.8V rail for driving the LEDs. Schottky diodes D4 & D5 and the associated 470 resistor provide a simple charging circuit for a 4-cell NiMH or Nicad backup battery. It also allows the micro to be powered from the main +5.8V DG rail (via D4) when available and then automatically fall back to the backup supply when the main source fails. ‘The added voltage drop across D4 (about 0.3¥) also puts the micracon- troller’s supply well below its absolute maximum rating of 6V. During mains failure, the microcontroller continues to run and power is also available to the opto output and piezo buzzer but the power-hungry LED array is not powered. This allows maximum backup battery life and still preserves operation of the alarm functions. Mains synchronisation signal ‘The unfiltered 100Hz signal from DBI iselso fed to the base of transistor Q7 to derive the mains synchronisa- tion signal. This pulses Q7 on and off at a 100Hz rate, which in tum drives pin 4 (PB3) of the microcontroller {U3). The internal software in U3 proc- esses this signal to dorive the mains synchronisation signal for the 8MHz crystal oscillator. In effect, the clock relies on the mains for its long term siliconchip.com.au(00.8 20 ‘10) shease soys|suE WOHSEEIEC VoOOZNTA FNP pwe sh-1 srO}TETEN, uwoysueq va sar amp soaysp pue suopouny Saydooyoun omy [Te swLLOpI0d yf YOO] CTT amp Jo Weay amp w sf (EN) JO||oNuODONDTUT 9T-STSEVOSALY We TAT HNOWONWW — MIOTIUIANS G31 is 29 Jone 2005 siliconchip.com.au88 LED SUPERGLOGK picrreurrers ano crcue os Fig,2: the circle LEDs are multiplexed by the microcontroller (U3), with Darlington transistors Q1-Q5 used to provide buffering and switching for the individual groups. Q1-O5 also switch the digit LEDs. 30 SwICON Cri siliconchip.com.auoy) Saat1 enpratpuy £ g (ua zai af 02k ol a] FS al x a} ES rev jist vuiay vo Sf vel Se vo z x sriay eet) sain eel oxi erin Yo vo ra Gy 2% | | voc z emi | [om aR cota roi | oxic esi evi v vl vere GR zeiay seal Leta sein oe orto eet “| a sola sci Yo) Ye ve) ua Ok aN eta ecm sai aa ae oe Ey xf sia aia yoy vel ea tau tHusnos DIGIT DISPLAYS Se LED SUPERCLOCK siliconchip.com.au 31 June 2005END PNG OF Us sO TT DOES INSERT Iho Socket Fig.4: the parts layout for the top of the PC board. Install a shorting link on pins 2 & 3 of JP1 for 24-hour operation. accuracy but falls back to the crystal oscillator during a power failure. Alarm outputs When the alarm is triggered, the microcontroller switches its OC1B out- put (pin 29) high. This logic high then tums on transistor Q6 which sounds a small piozo buzzer and tums on the alarm indicator LED (LD70), 32 SILICON Gp At the same time, PDO (pin 10) also goes high and this activates the opto- couplor (C1), As mentioned before, its output can then be used to control a low-voltage external device Assembly Before starting the assembly, it’s ‘ good idea to carefully inspect the supplied PC board and the parts lay- out diagram (Fig.4). In particular, pay special attention to the screw termi- nals mounted on the rear of the board = the supply and back-up terminals are labelled in copper and are hard to soo under the solder mask The PC board is double-sided with plated-through holes and a solder mask. This makes the assembly easy = there are no feed-through links to siliconchip.com.auFig. install and you only have to solder the component leads on one side of the board. Noto, however, that a few parts are mounted on the back of the board, which means that soldering takes place on the top (LBD side) of the board. The main thing to watch out for with this project is the large number of po siliconchip.com.au larity sensitive parts part LEDs. And because the board is plated- through, removing a part that’s already beon soldered in will be extremely difficult and risks damaging the board. The rule is: check and double check before soldering. ‘Apart from that, the assembly is quite straightforward and should only take a fow hours. arly the Begin the assembly by installing all the resistors on the board. To save any confusion, it's best to install all those with the same value ‘a good idea to install ther tolerance band facing the same way, as this makes it easier to check the assombly later on. Once the resistors are in, you can install the diodes, taking care to ensure JUNE 2005 3334 Above: the completed PC board is secured to the case using two M3 x 6mm. screws and nuts, located at the 3-o'clock and 8-o'clock positions. This view shows the parts on the back of the PC board, Be sure to mount the two electrolytic capacitors exactly as shown, so that they clear the battery compartment. SILICON CHIP each device is installed in the correct location and is correctly orientated. D1 & D2 are 1N40075, while D3-DS are 41N5819s (don’t get them mixed up). ‘That done, install the two BC547 transistors (Q6 & Q7), tho bridge rocti fier (DB1), the optocoupler (C1) and the IC sockets, Push the transistors down onto the board as far as they will comfortably go before soldering their leads and watch the orientation of tho bridge rectifier The IC sockets should all be orien: tated so that their notched ends match tho parts layout (this will make it easier when it comes to plugging the ICs in later on). Note that the socket for U6 (and the IC itself) faces in the opposite direction to the other sockets. Don't fit the ICs into the socket just yet, though —that step comes lator after the power supply has been tested. There's just one wrinkle when it comes to fitting the socket for the microcontroller (U3) ~ the 6-way pin header for in-circuit programming mounts on the rear side of the board, directly under this socket. This pin header can be omitted in the vast majority of cases, since the microcon- troller comes pre-programmed. If you do need the programming header, it will need to go in before the ICsocket —just flip the board over and solder it in. The optocoupler (OG1) solders di- rectly to the board. Be sure to install it with its notched end towards U3, as, shown on Fig.4, Onceit's in, install the adjacent 3-pin header (JP!) Next, install the crystal (X1), fol- lowed by the five BD682 Darlington transistors (Q1-Q5). The latter are all installed by Brst bonding their leads downwards through 90° about 4mm from their bodies, with the labels facing up. They are then installed so that they lie flat against the PC board, before soldering the leads The LM2575T switching regulator (U5) is installed in similar fashion. As before, bend its leads down through 90° about 4mm from its body, then mount it in position and fasten its ‘metal tab to the PC board using an M3 x 10mm screw and nut. That done, its leads can be soldered and trimmed in the usual manner. Note: don’t solder Us's leads before bolting it to the PC board. If you do, the leads may be unduly stressed as the screw is tightened, which could fracture the PC board tracks. siliconchip.com.au‘The clear plastic bezel is fitted with a dark filter and simply clips into position via a couple of locating lugs. Once it’s in place, the filter is sandwiched between the bezel itself and the 5mm LEDs. The ceramic and monolithic capaci tors are the next in line. Follow these with two 10uF tantalum capacitors. The latter are polarised, so make sure their positive leads go towards the top of th board. Installing the LEDs Now the real fun begins to install no less than 176 LEDs. OK, so this job is a bit tedious but if you install them in groups of seven or eight, it won't take long at all. As mentioned before, you really have to watch the oriontation of the LEDs ~ put them in the wrong way around and the little blighters won't work. The cathode lead is the shorter of the two (see Figs.1-3) and this cor- responds to the flat edge shown on each LED outline in Fig.4. Note that, depending on the manu- facturor, each LED may actually have aflat side to also indicate the cathode. However, the LEDs supplied with the prototype were completely round, so don’t count on this. Basically, it’s just a case of pushing each group of LEDs all the way down onto the PC board and splaying their leads slightly to hold them in place for soldering, Be sure to doublo-chock their orientation before actually ap- plying the solder ~ get one (or more wrong) and it will be difficult to Flip side Now forthe parts on thoreverse side of the PC board ~ see Fig.5. Flip the board over and install the three 2-way screw terminal blocks, followod by the piezo buzzer and the three pushbutton switches (SW1-SW3). Make sure the \Wherebro)BuyfA\KitiO farts) This project was developed by Grantronics Pty Ltd for Jaycar Electronics and the design copyright is owned by Jaycar Electronics. Akitof parts avaliable from Jaycar for $129.00 Cat. KC-5404. This includes the clock case, the battery holder, the PC board and all on-board parts but does Totinclude a plugpack supply or the rechargeable batteries. The 12VAC plugpack supply (Cat. MP-3020) is available for $22.95. 4 188mm-diameter double-sided PC board with black solder mask 1 clock case to suit PC board 41 330jIH 3A ferrite choke (L1) 1 8MHz crystal (X1) 1 mini piezo buzzer (PC mount) 3 2-way PC-mount screw termi nal blocks 4 AAA -1.2V rechargeable cells (NIMH oF Nicad) 14x AAA cell holder 8 miniature momentary contact PC-mount switches (SW1- sw) 3. M3 x émm screws 3M nuts 4 3-way pin header 4 jumper shunt 1 black cable tie, 150 x mm 3 16-pin DIL IC sockets 1 40-pin IC socket Semiconductors 3 ULN2003N Dartington transistor arrays (U1,U2,U8) 1 ATMEGA8515-16PC micro- controller ~ pre-programmed (u3) 1 LM2575T-ADs switchmode regulator (U5) 1 PS2505-1 optocoupler (OC1) 5 BD682 PNP Darlington transistors (1-05) 2 BC547 NPN transistors (08,07) 1. WO4 bridge rectifier (081) 2 1N4007 silicon diodes (D1,02) 3 1N5819 Schottky diodes (03-05) 164 high-brightness 3mm red LEDs 12 high-brightness Smm red LEDs Capacitors 1 2200uF 25V C-mount elec- trolytic 1 1000uF 10V PC-mount elec- trolytic 2 40uF 16V tantalum 3 100nF monolithic (code 104) 2 33pF NPO ceramic (code 33) Resistors (0.25W, 1%) 1100KQ 11.8 yeaka = 73300. 168kK2 © 14.2200 547KQ 57 1200 133K2 1470 siliconchip.com.au June 2005 35‘The rechargeable battery p in tho Baltery compartment i cae entra arng olkave) "Make sure its connected the gb ay rnd i buzzer goes in the right way around Ge, positive terminal to the left). That done, install the 2200uF and 1000uF electrolytic capacitorsand the 330gH choke (L1). Note that, in both cases, the capacitor leads are bent down by 90%, so that their bodies lie flat against the PC board. Pay atten: tion to the polarity of the capacitors and position them exactly as shown in Fig.5, 80 that they will clear the battery compartment ‘A blob of hot-melt glue or epoxy adhesive can be used to secure them in position. Similarly, use hot-melt glue to secure the choke or you can secure it using a plastic cable tie—just Joop the cable tie through the holes on either side. By the way, don’t be tempted to mount the electrolytic capacitors, the choke or the buzzer on the top of the board. They will interfere with the dark filter when the clear plastic, bezel is later clipped into posi- tion if you do. Fit the stickers A number of adhesive labels are supplied with the kit and these indicate the switch functions and the connectionsto thescrew terminal blocks. The ones for the screw terminal blocks are affixed directly to the PC board, Be sure to get these cor rect ~ if the 12V AC plugpack is connected to the back-up battery terminals, it will blow every chip on the board! The switch function labels are af fixed to the back of the case, above the access slot. They aro, from left to right: “Down”, “Mode” and “Up” ‘That’s it - the PC board assembly is complete and you're now ready for the smoke test. Well, actually there shouldn’tbe any smoke but you know what we mean! Testing Bofore fitting the ICs, it's best to check that the supply regulator (U5) is working correctly. To do this, apply power from a 12VAC plugpack and check the voltage at the anode of Da = you should get a reading of close to +5.8V. Dd’s cathode should be at about 45.3V and this voltage should also be present on pin 40 of US's socket. The tab of the LM2575 regulator makes a convenient ground point. Ifyou don’t get anything at D4’s an- ode, check the voltage at the cathode of Di ~ you should get a reading of about 16-17V DC, ablewle|Resistomcolouncc Assuming everything is OK, switch off and install the chips into their sockets, taking care to ensure that they are all correctly orientated. Be careful whon handling the chips, to avoid damage from static electricity. Don’t touch the pins and be sure to discharge yourself by touchingan earthed metal object before touching the ICs, Note that U6 faces in the opposite direction to the others. Note also that pin 9 of U6 must NOT go into its cor- responding socket pin. This pin ca either be cut off using a pair of side- cutters or splayed out so that it runs down the outside of the socket—ie, this, pin must NOT make any connection to the circuit (OK, we admit it-wemade a mistake on the PC board) ‘That done, connect the backup bat- tery pack and re-apply power from the ‘AC plugpack. The clock should imme: diately show 0:00 and the seconds LED should start chasing anti-clockwise It’s thon just a matter of setting the time and checking out all the fun tions using the pushbutton switch as doscribed earlier ‘After that, it's simply a matter of securing the PC board inside the case ‘using the M3 screws and nuts provided and clipping the front bezel into place. It’s up to you whether or not to use the dark filter material supplied. Ifyou do decide to use it, it must be cut into a neat circle exactly 197mm in diameter, to fit inside the bezel. ‘When the bezel is fitted, the filter is sandwiched between it and the Smm LEDs and held firmly in position, Leave the filter out if you want the display to be really bright. Finally, if one or more LEDs fails to light, check its orientation. Ifa group of LEDs fails to light, check the corre- sponding BD682 driver transistor and its associated base bias resistors. 8C Value 400k 6ekQ. 6.82 4.7KQ 3.3kQ 1.8kQ 3302 2200 1200 479 ooooooooooO 4-Band Code (1%) brown black yellow brown blue grey orange brown blue grey red brown yollow violet red brown range orange red brown brown grey red brown orange orange brown brown red red brown brown brown red brown brown yellow violet black brown 5-Band Code (1%) brown black black orange brown blue grey black red brown blue grey black brown brown yellow violet black brown brown orange orange black brown brown brown grey black brown brown orange orange black black brown red red black black brown brown red black black brown yellow violet black gold brown 36 SILICON CHIP siliconchip.com.auTHE AMATEUR § Two incredible CDs with over 1000 classic projects from the pages of Scientific American, covering every field of science... Arguably THE most IMPORTANT collection of scientific projects; ever put together! This is version 2, Science Fair Edition from the pages of Scientific American. As well as specific project material, the CDs contain hints and tips by experienced amateur scientists, details on building science apparatus, a large database of chemicals and so much more. Just a tiny selection of the incredible range of projects: «Build a seismograph o study earthquakes « Mako soap bubbles that ast for months « Monitor the health of lca streams «Preserve biological specimens « Build a carbon dioxide laser + Grow bacteria Cultures safely at home Build a ripple tank to study wave phenomena «Discover Row plants grow in low gravity «Do strange txperiments with sound «Use aot wire to study the crystal structure of steel » Extract and purify DNA in your kitchen «Create a Taser hologram « Study variable stars like apo Investigate vortexes in water «Cla slime muds » Stuy the fght efficiency of soaring birds » How to make an Electret » Construct fi lenses. Raise butterties as experimental animals « Study the physics of spinning tops » Build an apparatus for studying chaotic ‘systems » Detect metals in air, liquids, or solids « Photograph an ant’ brain and nervous system « Use magnets to make fis into Solids « Measure the metabolism of an insect...» and many, many more (a thousand more, in fact) www.sil HERE’S HOW TO ORDER YOUR COPY: Y MAILE BY INTERNET: NY PHONE:* BY EMAIL:# (02) 9979 5644 ) 9979 6503 i PO Box 139, silloonchip.com.eu 4 Mon-Fri 4 Hours 7 Days 4 Hours 7 Days Collaray NSW 2097 24 Hours 7 Days * Please have your creditcard handy! # Don't forget to Include your name, address, phone no and credit card details. You will be prompted for required informationCan a fridge into a wine chieCor! Oriturna freezer into a fridge! And save.$$$$? Thats COOL! Thats the c all-new Oui HAASTER! siliconchip.com.auEnjoy a wine or two? Got a spare fridge? Why not convert it to a wine cooler, to hold your selected tipples at just the right temperature. Or how about converting a surplus chest freezer into a highly efficient refrigerator? ‘ore and more people are buying a wine cooler for their Jhome. I's a nice idea — keep the wines on display but at just the right temperature. ‘An ordinary fridge is too cold for wine storage but what if you could convert your spare fridge into a wine cooler? It could be much bigger than a typical bar fridge-style wine cooler and probably more efficient into the bargain. All youneed isa precise and adjust- able thermostat which will overrule the existing fridge thermostat. That's just what the GoolMaster does. In essence, the CoolMaster plugs into the wall power point and the fridge is plugged into it. Then the CoolMaster’s temperature sensoris stalled in the fridge, with its two- wire ead brought out under the rubber door seal and it then over-rules the inbuilt thermostat. We've had quite a few requests for an electronic thermostat project, to convert a spare fridge into a wine cooler as simply and safely as possible, siliconchip.com.au So that’s how the CoolMaster came to be developed. But an article in January/March 2005 issue of the the Alternative Technology Association’s magazine featured a conversion of a chest type freezer into a very efficient fridge. Bingo! We realised that the Gool- Mastor could do exactly the same job and with tighter control than the above-mentioned article. This is a very attractive concept, particularly if you have a remote homestead operating on solar power. A chost freezer has much better insulation than a standard fridge and has the benefit that the cold air does not fall out of it as you open the lid. Of course, you do not need to be in a remote location to want to save energy anyone could employ the same idea to produce a highly efficient fridge at low cost. So there are two applications for the GoolMaster. To convert a fridge into a wine cooler the thermostat needs to maintain the internal temperature at around 9° to 15°C (48° to 58°F), while to convert a chest freezer into a fridge it needs to maintain its temperature somewhere between about 4° and 10°C. ‘Another advantage of the CoolMas- teris thet if you ever want to run your fridge or freezer in its original mode, all you do is disconnect it from the CoolMaster. Simple! So that’s the story behind this new olectronic thermostat project. It's low in cost and easy to build. Virtually all of the parts, apart from the remote temperature sensor, fit on a small PC board which fits snugly inside stand- ard UB3-sized plastic utility box. ‘The lead from the remote sensor plugs into one end of the box, while 240VAG mains power enters at the other end via a normal mains power cord. ‘The power cord from tho fridge or freezer then plugs into a240VAC outlet’ on the lid, so the thermostat can con- trol its operation. It’s that simple. It’s also quite safe ~ providing you don’t open the box and deliberately JUNE 2005 39nD, 3.5mm PLUG ans: ear & COULMASTER FRIDGE/ FREEZER TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER " mee Fig.1: the mains area of the circuit (shown in pink) plug the CoolMaster into a power point while the cover is off: i's dangerous! touch the mains wiring, of course. Most of the thermostat circuitry (in- cluding the remote sensor) runs froma 12V plugpack and is optically isolated from the 240VAC mains, So there’s no risk of shock from accidental contact with the temperature sensor wiring, for example. How it works Fig.1 shows the circuit of the CoolMaster and its operation is quite straightforward. The heart of the cuit is the remote temperature sensor ‘TS1, an LM338Z device specifically designed for temperature sensing. The LM335Z acts likea special kind of zener diode, in which its voltage drop isnot fixed but varies linearly and quite accurately with its temperature. In fact, its voltage drop is directly proportional to absolute temperature, having a value of OV at OK (-273°C) and rising linearly by 10mV for every Kelvin (or°C)rise in temperature, This is shown in the graph of Fig,2. So at a temperature of 0°C (273K), the voltage drop of the LM335Z, is very close to 2.73V. Similarly, at 16°C (289K), it rises to 2.89V. I’sthis change in voltage that we use to precisely control the temperature of our fridge or freezer, by comparing the sensor's voltage with a preset reference voltage, Sensor TS1 is connected between 40 SILICON GuiP the inverting (-) input, pin 3 of IC1, an M311 comparatorand ground (OV). A. 10k resistoralso connects from pin 3 to the +9V rail, to provide the sensor with a small bias current. The voltage at pin 3 of the comparator is therefore the voltage across TS1, directly pro- portional to the temperature in the fridge or freezer cabinet ‘Toprovidethe comparator witha pre- sot “set temperature” reference voltage, we connect its non-inverting (+) input (pin 2) toan adjustable voltage divider across the regulated +9V supply rail Multi-turn trimpot VR1 forms part of the lower leg of the voltage divider, allowing the voltage at pin 2 to be adjusted to any value between about adeeb Sala sale as 67 8 9 0 ‘TEMPERATURE ~ DEGREES CELSIUS a ph d-4-4 SbF 4-4-4 boy lated from the low-voltage section. But make sure you don’t 2.75 and 3.06V, These voltage limits correspond to f sensor temperature range of 2.5° to 33°C, so it’s easy to set the thermostat, to maintain the fridge or freezer tem- perature anywhere in this rango. The maximum temperature of 33°C does seem a little high (hot!) since the normal wine cooler temperature i around 15° but since VR1 is a mult turn trimpot which only has to be set ‘once, itis not really a problem, While ever the temperature inside the fridge or freezer remains lower than the temperature set by VR1, the voltage drop across TS1 will be lower than the preset voltage applied to pin 2of IC1 dato be Fig.2: this chart shows the relat- ionship between the temperature and the output voltage of the LM335Z sensor. This information can be used to help set up the CoolMaster. 1219 4 15 16 sillconchip.com.auTEMP SENSOR Secure any mains wires together with cable ties - just in case, Remember that components and tracks inside the dotted red line above are at mains potential when operating - never connect power with the case open. As a result, the output pin 7 of IC1 will be high (ie, +9V) and both LED1 and the input LED of the MOC3021 1C2 optocoupler will be off. But if the temperature inside the fridgo/ freezer rises to the set tempera- ture level, the voltage drop across TS1 (et pin 3 of IC1) will match the voltage on pin 2, and the comparator output will swing low (0V) to pull current through LED1 and the optocoupler’s LED. LED1 will tur on and the Triac inside the MOC3021 will also be switched on, triggering ‘riac 1 into conduction as well. This will switch on power to the compressor unit in the fridge/freezer, causing it to cool things down again. It runs the compressor only long enough to bring the temperature just below the set level Feedback ‘We prevent the circuit from oscil- lating or ‘hunting’ by giving it a small amount of positive feedback, via the 1000 resistor in series with the op- tocoupler and LED1, and the 33kQ resistor connecting back to thebalance input at pin 5. This lowers the voltage at pin 5 when the LED and ‘Triac are on and means the input voltage from TS1 must drop down to a level slightly lower than the voltage at pin 2, before the siliconchip.com.au comparator will turn off again In other words, we give it a small amount of ‘hysteresis’ ‘Trimpot VR2 is used to adjust the balance of C1, although with most LM311s it can be left in the centre position. The 3902 and 4702 resistors and the 47nF capacitor are used to ensure that Triac 1 is switched cleanly on and off by the Triac section inside the optocoupler. On the other hand, the 399 resis- tor and 10nF capacitor across Triac 1 are used to protect it from mis- triggering due to ‘spikes’ which may be generated by the inductive load of the fridge/freezer compressor motor. This photo of the assembled PC board is significantly oversize to give you a very clear picture (pardon the pun!) of where everything goes. June 2005 41Everything assembled in the case, immediately before the lid was screwed on. ‘These parts, along with the Triacitself, are at 240VAC mains potential when the thermostat is working. Allofthe low voltage part of the cir- cuit operates from 9V DG, derived by regulator REG1 from the 12V DC input via CON1 and protection diode D1 The 12V input can come from either a 12V battery or a plugpack supply. ‘The current drain is quite low (about 11mA), so you can use the smallest available 12V DG plugpack. Altematively, you could use a 9V ‘AC plugpack. This will be rectified by diode Di and filtered by the 2200uF 46V capacitor. Construction All of the components used in the CoolMaster circuit except for the remote sensor TS1 and its plug and socket are mounted on a small PC board. This measures 76 x 57mm and is coded 10106051 As may be seen in the photos and wiring/overlay diagram of Fig.3, all of the low voltage circuitry is at one ond of the board and the ‘live’ circuitry at the other, with the optocoupler 1C2 linking them across the isolating gap which separates the two. Bogin wiring up the PC board by fitting the two terminal pins. These go down near the lower left-hand comer ofthe board, ready for the wires from CON2 when everything is fitted in the box later. ‘Then fit DC input connector CON1, which goes at upper left. It’s a good idea to fit this early on, because you may find that the board holos need to be elongated slightly to accept the connector mounting lugs, using a jeweller's needle file, 42 SILICON CHIP Next, fit the various resistors, mak- {ng sure you fit each one in its correct, position. Ifin doubt, check their value frst with aDMM, Then fitthe two trim- pots, the smaller non-polarised capaci- {ors and the two 250VAC-rated capaci~ tors (which are non-polarised). The last capacitors to be installed are the two electrolytics; take special care with these as they are polarised. Make sure you follow the diagram carefully for their orientation, or you'll strike trouble later. ‘Take the same care with the semi- conductors, starting with diode D1. Follow this with IC1, IC2, REG1 and finally the Triac. Note that REG1 and the ‘Triac are both in TO-220 pack- ages (don't mix them up!) which are mounted horizontally with their leads dent down at 90° at the point 6mm from the device body. Both devices aro secured to the board using a 6mm long M3 machine screw and nut, passing through the holes provided in their mounting tabs and the board, In the case of the Triac there's also a 19mm square heatsink between Extra close-up view e of the mains wiring, Note the cable ties around the mains wires themselves which will secure the “bitey” bits inthis area of the case should they somehow come adrift. Yes, it’s unlikely... but s0 ‘was the ‘itanic’s iceberg. the Triac tab and the board, to make sure the Triac runs cool even during long periods of operation in hot ‘weather. Next St LED1, which is initially mounted with its leads straight and vertical. The longer anode lead is passed down through the rightmost hole (marked A on the diagram) and the shorter cathode lead through the other hole (K). Pass them down until the LED body is about 15mm above the board and then solder them to the board pads underneath. Finally, bend both leads forward by 90° at a point 10mm above the board, 0 the LED will be ready to protrude slightly through the hole in the front of the box when it’s all assembled later. Your board assembly should now be complete, Wiring the sensor Next we need to wire up the LM335Z, temperature sensor and the steps for this ere shown in Fig.5 Cut a 60mm length from one end of, tho two-core ribbon cable that you'll be using for the remote sensor lead and bare about 4mm at each end of both wires. Solder one end of the two wires to the terminal pins on the end of the PG board, just above VR1. Solder the red wire to the lower pin and the brown wire to the upper pin, as shown in Fig. ‘After this cut a 75mm length off the free (ie, non-plug) end of the mains cord, and remove the outer sleove so the three insulated wires are ex- posed. Discard the blue and green/yellow wires, but bare the ends of the brown wire by about 4mm at one end and 10mm at the other. This will become the ‘active’ wire connecting the output ofthe PC board to the active pin of the siliconchip.com.aumains socket (on the lid) ‘At this stage carefully push the end bared by only 4mm through the hole in the board labelled ‘Aout’, and solder it to the copper pad underneath. But for the present just tin the wire at the 10mm bared end. Now remove another 60mm length of outer sleeving from the free end of the mains cord, to expose the same length of the three insulated wires inside. Take care that you don’t knick any of the insulation on the wires in- side. Then bare 4mm at the end of the brown wire, and 10mm at the ends of the other two wires. Carefully tin the ends of the longer bared wires, but not the end of the ‘brown wire at this stage. Next, fit the cord-grip grommet to the outer sleeve of the mains cord, at a point which leaves about 15mm of sleoving bofore the removed end. Then push the wires at the end of the cord through the large hole in the end of the box (from outside), align the flat sides of the grommet halves with the flats on the hole sides, and finally push both the cord and grommet into the hole until it all clicks into place, Give the mains cord a gentle tug from the outside to ensure it is prop- erly locked in: Now carefully push the bared end of the cord’s brown wire through the remaining ‘Ain’ hole in the end of the PC board and solder it to the pad underneath. Next, fit the four M3 tapped nylon spacers (6.2mm long) into tho bottom of the box using the four countersunk-head screws provided. ‘Then you can lower the board down into the box until it’s sitting on the spacers and fasten it to them using the four 6mm long round-head M3 You may have to bond the LED leads inward a little to lower the board into place but once itis screwed down you should then be able to bend the leads so the LED body protrudes through the matching hole in the front of the box. Now you can fit the 3.5mm jack socket into the 6mm hole in the centre of the left-hand ond of tho box and tighten its mut to hold it in place. Then you can solder the ends of the two Short wires connected to the board's PC terminal pins to its two main con- nection lugs, as shown in the wiring diagram. siliconchip.com.au Fig.4: Box drilling details. Note that this is reproduced 80% Note that the brown wire goes tothe side lug and the red wire to the ond Tug furthest from it Next you should fit the mains outlet socket to the box lid. This is done by removing the screw from the centre of the outlet’s front plate, which allows the plate to be lifted off. Then you hold the rear part of the socket up behind the large hole in the fe size”. We suggest you photocopy this at 125% if you want to use it as a template. box lid, with the earth connection clip at the bottom. The front plate can then be mated with it from the front of the lid and the screw used to fasten them. together again. ‘Once the socket is mounted on the lid, bring them close to the box. This willallow you to connect the free ends of the brown wire from the PC board and the blue and green/yellow wires from the mains cord to theirrespoctive Jone 2005 43ETM O eee C C 1 PC board, 76 x 57mm (code 10106051) 1 Plastic ify box, UBS size (190 x 67 x 44mm), grey 1 Small U-shaped heatsink, 19 x 19 x 9.5mm (6073B type) 1.2.5mm DC input socket, PC board mounting (CON1) 418.5mm mono jack socket, panel mounting type (CON2) 1.3.5mm mono jack plug 1 3-pin mains outlet, flush panel mounting type 41 Cord grip grommet 12m 3-core mains cord and 3-pin plug 4.6.3mm long M3 tapped nylon spacers 4.6mm long M3 countersink-head machine screws 4.6mm long M3 machine screws, round head 2.9mm long M3 machine screws, round head 2PC board terminal pins, 1mm diameter 1.2m length of 2-conductor ribbon cable 1.25 x 50mm piece of 3mm alu- minium sheet 1.30 x 10mm piece of 1mm alu- minium sheet 2 Smm long M8 countersink-head machine screws 4M3 nuts and star lockwashers receptacles on the mains socket, shown in the wiring diagram. The brown wire goes to the socket receptacle marked A, the blue wire to that marked N and the green/yellow wire to the one marked B. You need to unscrew each recep: tacle’s fastening screw a few turns Piece 2 25mm lengths of 2.6mm heat- shrink sleeving 430mm length of 5.0mm heat- shrink sleeving Semiconductors 1LM311 comparator (IC1) 1 MOC3021 Triac triggering opto- coupler (IC2) 1 BT137F 6OOV/A Trac, insulated tab type 4 7808 +V regulator (REG1) 4.8mm red LED (LED1) 11N4004 diode (D1) Capacitors 1 2200 16V RB electrolytic 1 100uF 16V AB electrolytic 1 47nF 275VAC X2 class metallised polypropylene 1 10nF 275VAC X2 class metallised polypropylene 1 100nF MKT metallised polyester 1 2.2nF greencap 1/1nF greencap 9%) 140kQ 16.80 13.0k2 1 2.2k0 16802 14702 «13900 110001390, 1.5000 muititurn cermet trimpot (Rt) 1 5kO mini horizontal trimpot (vR2) 133kQ 13.3k2 before pushing the wire end inside, and then screw them up tightly again tomake sure each wire is held in place securely. A couple of small cable ties secure the active, neutral and earth wires to each other, preventing them moving around and contacting anything else LT CML ery Preyer ty IEC Code EIA Code 104 473 103 222 102 Value 400nF (0.1uF) 100n) 47nF (0.047uR) 47n 1OnF (0.01uF) 10n 2.2nF 2n2, tnF 4n0 should the worst happen and they come loose. Making the remote sensor The final stage in building the project is to make up the remote tem perature sensor and its lead. You'll ind this is again quite easy if you use the step-by-step diagram as a guide. As you can see the first step is to clip off the unwanted third lead of the LM3352, sensor, and then solder the ends of the 2-core ribbon cable wires to the other two leads after slipping 25mm lengths of 2.5mm diameter heatshrink sleeving over each one. After the solder cools and you are happy that both joints are good, the sloeves are then moved up until they butt hard against the body of the M3352, after which they are heated (@ hair dryer on high is usually hot enough) to shrink them in place (step 2). Then a 30mm length of 5mm di- ameter heatshrink sleeving is slipped along the cable and over the other sleeves, and heated in turn to shrink it in place as well (step 3) Prepare the sensor's heatsink assem- bly by drilling two 3.5mm. diameter holes on the centre line of the 50 x 25mm aluminium plate, 18mm epart. The bottom of both holes should be countersunk to accept countersink- head screws passed up from under- neath, Next make tho 30x 10mm pie Wo. Val 33kQ. 10k 6.8k2 3.3k2 3.0k2 2.2k2 6802. 4700 3902 1000, 300 ooooooococcco ‘4-Band Code (1%) orange orange orange brown brown black orange brown blue grey red brown ‘orange orange red brown orange black red brown red red red brown blue grey brown brown yellow purple brown brown orange white brown brown brown black brown brown ‘orange white black brown S-Band Code (1%) orange orange black red brown brown black black red brown blue grey black brown brown ‘orange orange black brown brown range black black brown brown red red black brown brown blue grey black black brown yellow purple black black brown orange white black black brown brown black black black brown orange white black gold brown 44 SimicoN CHIP siliconchip.com.au1mm aluminium into a clamp piece, by bending its central 8mm section into a halE-round shape to fit over the LM335Z body snugly. After this drill 3.5mm holes in the flat ends of this clamp piece, 18mm apart again to match the holes in the larger plate. You should then be able to assemble the probe with the LM335Z clamped to the top of the plate flat side down, and the screws tightened down using M3 nuts and star lockwashers (step 4) Complete the sensor assembly by fitting the 3.5mm mono jack plug to the other end of the two-core ribbon cable, connecting the red wire to the ‘tip’ lug and the brown wire to the ‘sleeve’ lug (step 5). Setting it up ‘There isn’t much involved in setting up the thermostat for use. Balance trimpot VR2 can be set to the contre of its range, as shown in the photo. Then if you know the temperature you want toset the thermostat to main- tain, it’s a matier of adjusting trimpot VR1 to produce the cortesponding voltage level at pin 2 of ICi This can be done by ‘trial and error’ once the project is finished and work ing butifyou havea digital multimeter it can also be done before the case is closed up (but before the mains cord is, connected to the power, of course). Ifyou want to do this, plug the 12V DG cable from your plug pack into CON2? at the back of the box but DO NOT plugthe thermostat’s power cord into a power point. Connect the leads of your DMM (sot to a low DC voltage range) between pins 2 and 4 of IC1, Read the voltage, which should be somewhere between 2.78V and 3.05V. Now all you have to do is look up the voltage level for the temperature you want from the small graph in this article, and adjust VR1 until the DMM reading changes to this value. ‘After this you can dress the three power outlet wires so they allow the lid and outlet to be lowered down into the box, until the lid is sitting squarely on the top. Then the box assembly is com- pleted by fitting the four 16mm long solf-tapping screws provided, to hold everything togother. ‘You might also want to fit the small rubber bungs to the screw holes after the screws are in place, to produce @ neat result. siliconchip.com.au usa, crap far mae See) sion reo srown “BES chats wie Bo — oS 22500 UNGHS OF 2.5m HEATSHRINK METRE LENGTH ora come REBON CABLE SOIDERRBBON CABLE WaRES TO TEMP SENSOR EADS. Clave SENSOR Asseaty 10 25x S0en AMINA HEATSINK PATE All that remains now is to mount the remote sensor inside the fridge or freezer cabinet, attaching its heatsink plate to the side of the cabinet using ‘two short lengths of ‘gaffer’ tape. Some double-sided foam pads may also work but remember that the inside of the binet is often moist, Then you can run its ribbon cable outside, holding it down with further strips of gaffer tape so it will pass neatly under the rubber doorseal when the door is closed, If you mount the thermostat box on the wall just behind the fridge/freezer, the plug on the end of the ribbon cable can be plugged into GON2 on the end of the box to complete the job. Now you can unplug the fridge/ freezer’s power cord from its origi- nal GPO (power point), and plug it instead into the outlet on the top of the thermostat. Then when you plug the thermostat's own mains cord into the original GPO, the complete system will begin working. If you want to make sure that the How to wire the sensor — step-by-step Max tm LONG COUNTERSINK HEAD ASHES y 200m tENGTH OF Sem DA. eATSERIN SUDE HEATSHAN ALLARGER SLEEVE AND “SEEVES UP AND HEATTO SHRINK OVER HEAT IO SHRINK ‘ALUEADS 2.5m WK HUG TO (Gthee END OF AEON, (CABLE ED WIRE TO TP) thermostat is holding tho fridgo/ freezer to the temperature you want, this can be done quite easily using a thermometer placed inside the cabinet for a while, Oryou can monitor the sensor volt- ‘age across the lugs of the ribbon cable plug, and verify that the voltage cycles up and down but is centred on the value for the desired temperature (as shown in the graph). If you need to adjust the average temperature up or down, this is done quite easily by adjusting trimpot VR1 using a small screwdriver. That's the reason for the small hole in the left- hand end of the box, sc this article is published. June 2005 45BY JULIAN EDGAR A voltmeter for almost nothing Want a really cheap voltmeter? Here’s how to adapt a VU meter that’s been scrounged from an old audio cassette deck. ECENTLY, INTHIS column, we've ‘covered both a very cheap lead- acid battery charger (made from a plugpack and a resistor) and a variable output switchmode 12V power supply (made from a phone charger). Inboth cases, it’s useful to also have ameter displaying voltage. In the case of the battory charger, a voltmeter lets you monitor the battery's voltage as it ‘charges, while in the powor supply, it lets you monitor the output voltage. There’s a heap of other uses for a voltmeter as well especially when you realise that this meter will cost You next to nothing. And it's easy to customise the scale and the voltage range over which the meter works. Want some more possible uses? Well, in a model railway layout, you could use the moter to display the voltage being fod to the lighting — but instead of having “volts” marked on the scale, you could have “dus “night” and “day” ranges marked. 100k MGMT “RPO Fig.1: a VU moter is a very sensitive instrument. It can be adapted to measure a wide variety of voltages by installing 100K82 a variable resistor in series with the supply voltage. ‘This allows you to easily adjust the Full Scale Deflection to match the peak voltage you need to measure. 460 SILICON CHIP ‘Another uso is in battery-powered equipment. Because the meter draws very little power, it could be used in many applications to permanently display the battery voltage. That way, you'll always know if you've gota bat- tery that's nearing the end of it charge (or its life). The Components ‘You'll need only two components, as well as access to a computer, just about any image manipulation pro- gram, a scanner and a printer. You'll also temporarily need @ plugpack, a 10k2 pot and a multimeter and to do the calibration, you'll temporarily.) The two electronic components required are: (1) an anslog VU meter from a discarded audio cassette deck; and (2) a 100k multi-turn trimpot, used here as a variable resistor. Old cassotte decks with large illumi- nated VU meters turn up all the time in garage sales, at the tip and during kerbside collections. It is extremely rare for the VU moters to be dead, 80 you can be fairly safein collecting any ‘ld cassette deck for this purpose. Try to obtain @ deck that has two separate meters (one for each stereo channel), rather than one that has them com- bined into a single display. ‘VU meters are typically moving coil voltmeters that have a very high sensitivity. This means that it takes vory little voltage to move the needle across the full scale — typically, just 0.3-0.4V, Their coil resistance is very high, being around 600-7000. Plug these figures into Ohm’s Law (ie, I= V/R) and you'll find that the meter current is only about 0.5 milli- Here a multi-turn trimpot has been used as the series variable re ‘This makes calibrating the m amps (0.5mA) for full-scale deflec- tion! Building It Ifyounced to measurea voltage that risos only to about 0.4V, all you need dois connect the meter straight across the supply. However, it's much more likely that you'll want to measure a peak voltage of SV, 12V or even 24V. Fortunately, it’s very easy to decrease the sonsitivity of the moter ~ just wire a variable resistor in series with the meter, as shown in Fig.1. But how do you make the scale match the readings you want the meter to show? Most VU meters use a non-linear movement ~ that is, the needle moves less for a given voltage increment at the top end of the scale than it does towards the bottom. This means that you can either position the markings closer together as you move up the meter scale or you can space the markings evenly and jump further between numbers. We chose to do the latter. You can use your PC and printer to make the new scale. You could scan in the original scale and modify it but in practice, it’s best to start with the siliconchip.com.auscale from another instrument. The meters shown here use a scale that was originally scanned in from an old speedo. Once you have the arc and the in- crements, you can use the software to delete the numbers and any other markings you don't want. That done, ‘measure the width of the scale on tho meter and then size the on-screen ver- sion to match this and print it out-ie, without any numbers on it Next, carefully romova the original scale (most meters are held together with tape, with the scale glued in place) and temporarily place your “un-numbered” scale behind the pointer. To provide a variable calibration voltage, use the approach shown in Fig.2. This involves wiring a 10k potentiometer across the output of a discarded plugpack. By adjusting the pot, you can vary the calibration voltage from OV up to the maximum voltage provided by tho plugpack. The multimeteris included so that you can measure the voltage being fed to the VU meter So how do you perform the calibra- tion? First, adjust the 100k® trimpot so that the most commonly read maxi- mum voltage is towards the end of the scale. After you've set this, don't touch the trimpot again. Next, alter the input voltage, meas- ure it with the multimeter and work out what each of the other graduations on the modified meter scale should show. Bo sure to round off the voltages tothe nearest whole volt. For example, on one of the meters shown here, the scale goos: 4, 7, 11, 14, 18, 25, 34V. Once you've figured it all out, use ‘Hmm, “JE instruments” ... gee, that sounds like a good brand, When you make your own scales, you can put anything you like on them! siliconchip.com.au ‘On the right is one of a pair of VU meters removed from an old cassette deck. At left is its modified brother, recalibrated and rescaled as a vo to av, en SSAA RHAGLL, ie imeter reading up Fig.2: wiring a 10K. pot across a plugpack provides a variable voltage source, allowing you to calibrate the scale, The multimeter shows what the readings on the new meter scale should be. your graphics software to put the numbers on the scale, along with any other writing you want. Finally, print it out on gloss paper, cut it to shape and stick it in place. Using the meter is as simple as connecting it (and its series 100k Whenever you throw away an old TV (or VCR or washing machine or dishwasher or printer) do you always think that surely there must be some good salvageable ‘components inside? Well this column is for you! (And is also for people without a lot of dough.) Each month we'll use bits and pieces sourced rom discards, some- times in mini-projacts and other times as, an ideas smorgasbord ‘And you can contribute as well f you have a use for specific parts which can Rea ‘rimpot) across the voltago source that you want to monitor. Note that if the meter needs to be used at night, it's easy to illuminate the scale. In fact, the cassette dock that you scrounged the moter from probably also had a suitable bulb in it. Make sure that it has the correct voltage rating for your application though sc ‘easily be salvaged from goods commonly being thrown away, we'diove tohear trom You. Perhaps you use the pressure switch froma washing machine to control a pump. (Or maybe you have a use for the high- quality bearings from VCR heads. Or perhaps you've found how the guts of a cassette player can be easily turned into ‘a metal detector. (Well, we made the ast ‘one up but you get the idea...) It you have some practical ideas, write inand tel us! JONe 2005 47SERVICEMAN'S LOG Every storm has a silver lining There’s no doubt about it — an electrical storm is good for business. But I never cease to be amazed at the sometimes seemingly random damage that occurs to a TV set. Mr Patrick brought in his dead NEC FS-6890 (Daewoo GP-785A. chassis} just after an electrical storm the night before. ‘Asusual, the fuse hadn’t blown and most of the set looked perfectly OK. Powering it up, everything seemed correct except for a low SV rail. By disconnecting the circuits bit by bit, [ soon found that the tuner (Philips) was drawing excess current due to an internal short, Replacing it removed this short and restored the SV rail. However, there was still no EHT because there was no horizontal drive waveform from the TDAS365 jungle IC. ‘The voltages all looked correct apart from the ones which were dependent onthe line output stage working—even the crystal frequency was spot-on. Howover, the DC voltage on the PC SCL clock pulse was low, with no data Items Covered This Month © NEC FS-68T90 TV set (Dae- woo CP-785A chassis) ‘Sony TA-EX70 AV Centre Control Ampitior ‘Sony KP-EF41SN (RG-2 chassis) projection TV Denon UDMS0 stereo system Loewe 84-100 TV set (2100 Chassis) © JNL5103 TV set Sharp CX6N5 TV set Biaupunkt IS70-33 TV set 48 SiicON CIP activity showing on the CRO. ‘Once again, by progressively discon- necting all the ICs the SCL pulse went to, the Sound Micron microprocessor IC601MSP3451D was determined to be the culprit. A new one restored al- most everything in the set, with good picture and sound. What still didn’t ‘work was the install menu and the service manual didn’t give much of a clue on this. NBC Technical Support thankfully deduced that the set was locked into the “HOTEL” mode. This function is to protect hotel TV installations from the prying hands of inquisitive guests. To release it, you have to press “Delete”, “Move”, “Skip” and “Operate”. Finally, to access the Service Mode, you must first select program 91 and set “Sharpness” to minimum, then very quickly press “Red”, “Menu” in turn, then “OK’ In summary, it looked as though Mr Patrick’s TV had suffered a lightning strike via the outside aerial. This damaged the tuner, before sending a transient back up the SCL, clock pulse line. Under the circumstances, it could hhave been m Master tech! A very confident Mr Allen brought in his 1996 Sony TA-EX70 AV Centre Control Amplifier. Apparently, an ac- cident had caused heat to be applied to the front escutcheon, resulting in no display. He had already diagnosed the prob- lem and priced the parts required, namely the fuoro display and driver IC=IC551 (FL50%). All he wanted was us (the dummies) to fit them ~ you know, the easy bit! The job was given to one of our new technicians who did a very pro- fesstonal job of replacing these parts. However, he was very disappointed to find that he still didn’t have a display —especially as there wasn’t much else in the circuit. The -28V and +5V rails were present and the CRO showed there was digital noise on the data line plus 5V on the resot line, As a result, it was decided that John, our very competent senior audio technician, would take « look at the problem. He too could see nothing wrong with the unit and suspected a “horrible” digital problem with the microprocessor, ‘That was when one of our TV techni- cians said he would have a look. The others all dismissed him as a mere TV man ~ what could he possibly know about audio equipment? However, he surprised them all by fixing the prob- Jom in five minutes fat! He deduced that despite no voltages being shown on the circuit of an equivalent model, the fluoro display filament voltage was low at 1.5V AC. In fact, he had expected it to read somewhere around 4-5V. In practice, this filament is fed via an unusual arrangement of four paral- lel resistors and one series capacitor in each log from a mains transformer (1901). He found theso on the interme- diate Main Board and could see that this board had become discoloured due to heat from these components. This in turn indicated that the two series 100uF 25V electrolytic capacitors (C971 & C972) had dried out, reducing their values to just 3)F and 8nF respectively, Replacing them increased the filament voltage and the fluoro resumed working. John was so impressed that he now calls my Teutonic friend “Master Tech”. God knows his ego doesn'tneed this extra praise! Sony projection TV Thave # problem with rear projec tion TVs and that involves logistics. In the main, they are just too big, too siliconchip.com.auawkward and too difficult to repair in comfort ~ not to mention extremely expensive. Besides that, until just recently, I the picture was poor unless you were directly in front of the screen, Recently though, new technology has improved this out of sight. Nevertheless, you always need no less than two and possibly three people to move the item to a special trolley and to transport it. You then need a large bench to place it on, be- fore trying to disassemble it and reach impossible areas to make the necessary measurements. Add to those problems expensive and sometimes difficult-to- get service manuals and you can see why I'm hardly ever thrilled about servicing projection TVs. So having stated whore I stand on those monsters, I also have to state that unfortunately often got involved in servicing them, For example, just recently, my mechanic's 198 Sony KP-EF41SN (RG-2 chassis) carked it during yet another thunderstorm (they're good for business, those thun- derstorms}. ‘Now it has come tomy attention that, some people like to whinge about how much TV techs charge but compared GOD KNOWS HIS EGO DoeSA NEED THIS EXTRA PRAISE siliconchip.com.au tomechanics (and plumbers), reckon we're pretty tame! In fact, I was doing my bestto earn a few “brownie points” for meand my wheels when [decided to take this project on. Anyway, this set's power supply board G just wasn’t supplying the essary volts. As aresult, removed the board and did some DG checks on what looked like a brand new module, The first thing I found was that fusible resistor R6033 (0.19, 1W) was open circuit. This feeds 292V to two pairs of FETs and Q6015 and Q6014 (IRF1744G-LF SW) were both short circuit. I replaced these, along with the driver IC (C6007, IR2112) and 20V zener diodes D6046 and D6047. For good measure, I also replaced ©6030 (0.039RF 800V), as this often causes a “no-go” situation when it goes open circuit. In order to test it on the bench, you havo to bypass the mains power switch by connecting pin 4 of plug CN6006-1 to pin of plug GN6007-1 (be careful). Then, to tum it on, you have to apply 7V from pin 1 of plug CN6008 to pin 3 (Power Control). I used @ 100W globe on the +138V rail and pins 1 & 2 of CN6011 for ground. Everything else checked out OK so I refitted the module and prayed before switching on. Fortunately, eve- zything was “cool” ~ that was all that ‘was wrong and the set now worked flawlessly, Select your microcontroller kit and get started. ere complet, citrk bie i opty be PS DOMINION. (ya. 512 906 0 Fc 61 2 9006 7145 Want cheap, really bright LEDs? We have the best value, brightest LEDs available in Australial Check these out: Luxeon 1, 3 and 5 watt All colours available, with cor without attached optics, as low as $10 each Low-cost 1 watt Like the Luxeons, but much lower cost. +Red, amber, green, dlue io ‘and white: Just $8 each! Lumileds Supertiux S These are 7.6mm square and can be Griven at up to 50mA continuously ‘Red and amber: $2 each ‘Blue, green and cyan: $3 each Asian Superflux Same as above, but much lower cost. ‘Red and amber: Just 50 cents each! * Blue, green, aqua and white: $1 each. Go to www.ata.org.au or call tus on (03)9419 2440. June 2005 49A1999 Loewe I wish I could say the same about my car. Denon stereo unit We repair quite a few Denons and see a lot of UDMS0 stereos with CD problems ~ in particular, the 3-tray stacker which can easily go out of alignment and jump a tooth, thus caus- ing the microprocessor to shut it down. ‘Thisis normally caused by rough treat- mont: eg, if the unit it bumped. Recently, Mr Riley brought in his UDMS50, complaining that it wasn’t working and that the display was showing a “MEC ERROR”. We began by stripping the unit down on the bench and switching it on. Normally, if it is out of alignment, you can see the loading motor attempt to go in and out in a sequence, before closing down. However, in this case, nothing ‘was happening at all and yet the tray appeared to be perfectly aligned. Noxt, the voltages to the mechanism, were checked and found to be all over the place. The reason for this was easy to diagnose ~ there wes no earth path runningto it. The 16-way flexible cable had cracked and hard wiring an extra ground lead fixed the problem. The now working set was demon- strated to Mr Riley when he picked it 30 Siuicow GHP CAME IN WITH NO PICTURE, NO SOUND & PULSATING up but when he got it home, it had ex- actly the same fault and so he brought it back immediately. This time, the fault was mostly ours as we had left a CDin one of the trays and when it was transported, the CD jammed in tray 1. Ttwas a 5-minute job to release it and explain it all to Mr Riley. He accepted this gracefully and off he went. But that wasn't the end of it. One ‘week later, ho complained again that there was a "MEC ERROR” but now only on Disc Tray 3. We (stupidly) aid this might be due to a warped tray, although this was unlikely as last time it was an electrical problem and not a mochanical one, MrRiley brought it in again and this time the tray was out ofalignment. We stripped it down and realigned the slipped tooth but could find nothi wrong, The tray wasn't warped and we suspected that Mr Riley had lost his tempor with it and banged it, causing the problem. He demanded we put in a new tray as he was now convinced that it was warped but in fact it wasn't. He was shown it workingagain but was some- ‘what disappointed that we hadn’t put in a new tray (worth $41 plus labour) for free. Of course, if the unit had had this problem to begin with, we would have replaced it and charged accordingly in the first instance, However, it wasn't anything to do with the electronic problem we had already fixed. In any event, we haven't heard from Mr Riley forthe last three months, so hopefully that’s the end of the matter. Loewe TV set ‘A1998 Loewe 84-100 (Q2100 Chas- sis) came in with the no picture and no sound Itwas also pulsating so I checked all seven secondary rails from the power supply for shorts. I was expecting the line output transistor (Q534) on the +145V rail to be foulty but it was OK. However, the 29V rail (U29) was shorted and this supplies IC 1594, the east-west amplifier. This IC is a TDA8030 (=L165), a common audio output device. It was replaced and the set burst into life but there was no east-west control. [then found that resistor R593 (1.59) from the output to the east-west modulator circuit had been destroyed, so this too was replaced. ‘Unfortunately, when it was switched on again, the set reverted to pulsating and IC 1594 and R593 were again de- stroyed. I checked the whole circuit out again and “blew up" another set of parts before I woke up to the fact that the horizontal deflection yoke was short circuit. A faulty deflection yoke is often the death knell of a TV set, as they are usually only sold as part of the picture tube, which often costs more than the entire set, In this instance, though, the yoke was sold as a separate spare part but it is now no longer available. ‘And so that was the end of the matter and the Loewe went to that great big ‘TV graveyard in the sky. Other problems I have encountered with this chassis include coramic ca pacitor C534 (2.7nF) which is across the collector-omitter of the line output transistor. L3366 (4.7uH) and R366 (1009) also cause problems. When theso parts fail,+210V is appliod to the CRT socket RGB output ICs and the set briefly displays a bright white raster with retrace lines before shut- ting down. Why fix an old set? Tam still seeing a few JNL televi- sions, even though the company that imported them has disappeared. But siliconchip.com.auwhat amazes me is that some people are quite prepared to pay a motza to get their old sets fixed, despite new ones being so cheap. The JNL5103 is a 51cm AV stereo ‘TV that's broedly based on a Sanyo A3 chassis and isn't a bad little performer for such a cheap model. The one! have just hed in belonged to Mrs Jones and was dead. It had been behaving errati cally for quite a while, being difficult to switch on and making noises in the speakers on standby. When I opened it up, I found that most of the electrolytics (C559, C562, C563, C5332, C537) in the secondary of the switchmode power supply had swollen, indicating that the regulation had failed. Furthermore, both sound ICs had failed (N701, N71 ANS265/ CD5265CS), as well as fusible resistor R920 (19). Ireplaced these parts and as in the Sanyo sets, I also replaced the preset L10V potentiometer R551. That's be- cause these presets tend to crack and make intermittent poor contact with the rivets to the legs. I also replaced 555 and R556 (both 47kQ) and R554 (150k0), as I have hed these go high in Sanyo sets. High-capacity 280mAn rechargeable 9V 2400mAh NIMH AA cells siliconchip.com.au ‘Thinking overything was sweet now, left the set switched on fora soak test It went perfectly all day, so I switched itoffto standby for the night. The next day I was surprised to discover that it wouldn't switch on Looking inside, I was horrified to see that some of the new electrolytics Thad just fitted had blown up and the sound IGs and resistor had failed again. (Actually, to be factual, only one IC at a time goes short circuit, protecting the other by blowing the fusible resistor) OK, [had missed the problem the previous day — the sot was working fine when fully on but was failing in standby mode due to the increased voltage, This time I also replaced V551 (28C949), D551 (a 6.2V zener) and optocoupler VD525 (P8176). I then left it on standby, with a DVM moni. toring the 110V rail. Within an hour, it suddenly started to rise sharply to over 200. Fortunately, I was thereto promptly switch the set off, before any damage occurred. Well, at lest I had actually seen the fault happen but as Thad al- ready replaced nearly all the feedback circuitry, I was running out of ideas, I concentrated my efforts on the switchmode power supply and ap- plied heat from a hairdryer, followed by freezing, to track down any sensi- tive components. Finally, I found that transistor V511 (2SA1015) was responding to this treatment and was very slightly leaky. This transistor is in the error detection circuit in the power supply and replacing it and leaving the set on soak test for a very, very long time confirmed my diagnosis, To protect the audio ICs from blow ing up again, [fitted a 24V zener after tho fusible resistor on the 19V rail. If there are any further problems, the fu- sible resistor should now blow before the ICs are damaged. ‘A sharp diagnosis Mr Colcraft is an old-age pensioner who owns a Sharp CX6NS TV sot which is only a few years old. The set was dead and he wanted a house call, ! agroed to go but I havo to admit that Iwas rather anxious about how to approach a set [ had never seen before without a circuit diagram. Fortunately, I soon got the hang of the thing, Power was arriving into the Custom-made Lithium lon, NiCd and NiMH battery packs ‘Smart Chargers single cell chargers \dependent channels. Charge any combination of NiCd & NiMH AA and AAA cells High-capacity 9h rechargeable D JUNE 2005 81Serviceman’s Log OTE IT HAD BEEN BEHAVING ERRATICALLY ~ DIFFICULT TO SWITCH ON AND MAKING NOISES IN THE. SPEAKERS ON STANDBY switchmode power supply but nothing was coming out of the secondaries There were no measurable short cir cuits on the supply rails and the line output transistor was OK. The standby LED wasn’t on but there was 330V on. the main electrolytic filter capacitor. Nothing was pulsating, so it looked to me that the start-up circuitry was faulty. I then noticed a small 1.8MQ resistor (R5701) from the bridge rec- tifier to the +330V rail which looked suspicious. I measured it to find it gone very high in vaiue. Replacing it with a high-voltage 0.5W resistor fixed the fault, much to my relief — I really didn’t want to teke the set back to the workshop. Blaupunkt Mr Forsythe was persuaded to bring his 1997 66cm Blaupunkt 1870-83 VT PIP(FM310.32 = Grundig CUC5360 chassis) into the workshop, as Icouldn’t see myself solving what ‘was an extromoly intermittent sound problem in his home. Itwas justas well, as the fault didn’t show until after three days of continu- ous running. When it did, it could be persuaded to return if you turned the volume up but not down, I started by looking for dry joints but the only significant one T could find was on one of the deflection plug 52 SILICON CHIP pins. Heating and freezing the audio output IC made no difference and all the supply rails checked out OK. The fault seemed to be on the IF module (20504-102.70c) which carries the TDA6610 (IC2250 stereo decoder IC. Iunsoldered the IC and fitted an IC socket and the set then started to work and wouldn’t fault again The remote also didn’t work and after [ eventually managed to get the case apart, I found that this was due toa broken ceramic crystal leg, When I quoted Mr Forsythe, I was surprised when he decided not to go ahead with it, especially asthe set cost about $2000 eight years ago (this mod- el has picture in picture and teletext} Instead he decided to use a powered loudspeaker set {as used with PCs) connected to his VCR for sound, I guess it takes all sorts. Older sets not wanted | still repair older sets whon their owners beg me but I don’t encour- age it. A decade is good value for the amount of entertainment people get out of their tellys~much cheaper than reading books. Toften hear “I have had this sot for 30 years and it is has NEVER bro- ken down”. My response to that is “PLEASE show it tome”, as Thavenev- er seen ONE yet. The fact is, peoples ries are just not that good Jremember 20 years ago when the National Manager of AWA/Thorn ad- dressed a technical meeting of TRTIA (Television and Electrical Techni Institute of Australia) in Sydne he started by saying “Gentlemen, you are all out ofa job. Those new Mitsubi- shi TVs just won't break down”, Well, compared to their previous TCE-designed 3K5 (3504) and later 4KA chassis, that might have seemed a sure bet but even so, Mitsubishi sets have given me steadly work (ashave all other brands, bless them) and helped pay the bills for the last 20 years. And they were excellent sets, well designed and built. ‘The set I was asked to fix was a Philips 28GR6781/75R usingaG111.3 chassis of the early 1990s. It was dead but pulsating and aflera while showed a dull intermittent blob/line in the coniro of the screen Toall intents and purposes it looked to me like dry joints or the flyback transformer and/or possibly a vertical timebase fault dragging the horizontal output down, When I removed the chassis and after measuring and mak ing sure the +320V main reservoir ipacitor was discharged, Iresoldered a number of rather dry joints to the fly back transformer, the deflection yok and the East-West transformer. I could “smell the fish” from the faking 1500! acitors, so [replaced them and checked for corrosion damage but the fault per- sisted. By shorting out the base-emi ter junction of the horizontal output transistor and hanging a 150W globe on tho collector, I could see that the +140V rail was steady. I disconnected the SCR crowbar and tried a new EEPROM, thon changed the flyback transformer all to no avail. I retraced my steps and tried a 60W globe instead of the impromptu 150W globe I had used before. This time, the globe was pulsating and the voltage on the analog meter showed it was bit high. I could get it to stop pulsating by turning down the 140V B+ control but the voltage was still a touch too high Finally, I located @ small 75k re sistor feeding back from the 140V rail to the control circuitry that had gone high resistance. Replacing this resis tor end then resetting the B+ control back to where it was fixed all of the symptoms. sc siliconchip.com.auHere’s\a cheap, simple shunt'regulator. that’s ideal for. use with’alternative power generation systems, whether they/be wind, solar, hydro you name it: It:will prevent your batter ‘om being cooked by, over-charging and can even assist with hot water or. othed heat g Sw Ce siliconchip.com.au June 2005 61 sl<‘ave you decided to generate He Dower yours It be .coming more and more popular these days, especially as politicians keep making noises about soaring energy prices ~ and alternative energy generation equipment keops getting cheaper and cheaper. For most people, the choice is solar orwind generation. Not too many peo- ple have a sufficiently reliable stream running through their back yard; even less would be ellowed to dam it to get the head required. And then what happens in a drought? Solar is practical pretty much any- ware the sun shines, as longas there is a large enough area with a good solar exposure, However, itisstill relatively expensive and we understand gov- ernment subsidies have now all but disappeared. We looked at the economics of solar power in some detail ~ and generated some heat ourselves ~ back in March 2002. Unfortunately, wind generation is not exactly suitable for the quarter-acre block in the suburbs, Uninformed (dare we say ignorant?) councils don’t like the idea of towers being erected in the back yard nor do they like those big spinning things which can upset the neighbours, But for anyone in a windy area in the sticks, especially those off the electricity grid, generating your own power from the wind is most definitely a practical solution these days. infact, we described just how to do that yourself using a modified washing machine motor in a series of articles between December 2004 and March 2008 (back issues of these or the March 2002 issue of SiL1CON Gut are available at $8.80 each inc GST and p&p) In addition, several suppliers now have efficient, effective wind gen- eration kits available, While, say, 250- 500W doesn’t sound all that much, if you aro in a relatively constantly windy area, that is certainly enough to keep your batteries charged and give you power when you want it Aaah, the batteries! It’s often the last thing would-be alternative energy generators think about, After all, actual generation is the most important part of the equa- tion, right? Yos . .. and no! Sure, you need to be able to captura nature's energy but ‘what do you do with itonce captured? Unless you have some means of storing that energy — ie, batteries —it won't be available when you want to use it. So it is lost - and a lot of that money you have spent is just wasted. But you can't just chuck any old bat- tery, such as a car battery, into the sys- tom and expect it to work properly. For a start, you need batteries de- signed to operate with deep discharge and charge cycles. You're probably going to need more than one battery, especially if you run asystem deliver- ‘ng more than the “usual” 12V (and for best efficiency, you should), Deep discharge batteries are aveil- able—in fact, most manufacturers now make batteries specifically intended for alternative energy/energy storage applications. But they are expensive much more so than the produced-in- their-millions automotive batteries. Here's the shunt regulator, mounted in a junk case with dummy loads and co 62 SILICON CHIP (Car batteries are designed for a short, high current discharge which does not upset them too much, as long as they are recharged immediately = which of course they are, from the car's alternator. Start deep discharg- ing a car battery and its life will be measured in weeks, not years, as they normally are.) The other thing that upsets batter- ies, of any description, is incorrect charging. Sometimes it is insufficient charging but more often than not i's over-changing. When a battery is over-charged, it heats up. Its electrolyte evaporates (sometimes, it actually boils away) and you're left with a large, unattrac- tive paper weight, permanently and terminally damaged, When you have spent hundreds (perhaps even thousands) of dollars on storage batteries for an alternative energy system, that hurts. It's enough to make you cry! Our regulator ‘That's where this little circuit comes in, Itsimply won’t let your batteries be overcharged. Once they reach the fully charged state, it switches incoming current into a dummy load (or several dummy loads if you wish) While in the prototype shown here the heat generated is simply vented to air with fan assistance) there is nothing tostop you using that otherwise wasted energy to, say, heat water, Depending ‘on how much energy is dumped into the dummy load, you may not get too ‘much of a temperature rise in the tank but any increase is good and it's much better than wasting the energy. g fan, It's just one possible arrangement. siliconchip.com.au88 SHUNT REGULATOR OPTONAL: REQUIRED ONLY IF COUN FAN CONNECTED. tnaias aa 1,202 ‘The circuit mainly consists of a SV regulator/comparator, some NAND gates and MOSFETS which switch in dummy loads. We'll look at the dummy load (ac- tually made with wire jug elements) shortly, At the heart of this circuit is a 5V voltage regulator (IC1, an L4949). Its claim to fame is that it has a very low dropout voltage but also has additional functions such as power-on reset and input voltage sense. In this design the voltage-sensing comparator section and the 5V regula- tor are used, ‘The system voltage is sensed via the voltage divider across the supply/bat- teries with VR1 adjusting the exact voltage as required. (TThe top two resis- tors are only used for 24V systems). ‘When the voltageat the wiper of VR1 {and therefore pin 2, the input voltage sensor of [C1) falls below 1.24V, the open-collector output (pin 7) is inter- nally pulled to OV. Therefore the 101F capacitor charges to 5V via the 1kQ resistor between it and pin 7. This presents logic “0” to the input pinsof both of the Schmitt NAND gates IC2a and IC2b, resulting in a logic “1" at both their outputs, IC2c, another siliconchip.com.au Schmitt NAND gate, has its inputs connected to IC2a's output, so it has a logic “0” at its output. This turns Q3 off, which turns Qa on, resulting in a low voltage at the gate of MOSFETs 2, 3, 4 and 5. There- foro they remain off, which means no current can flow through the dummy loads. ‘Whon the batteries are fully charged, the voltage at Pin2 of IC1 will rise above 1.24V, so the opposite of what is detailed above occurs: IC2ze and IC2b’s outputs go low, IC2c’s output ‘goes high, turning on Q3 and turning off Q4. The MOSFETs now have gate voltage and are thus turned hard on, resulting in current flow through the dummy loads. Tho circuit remains in this state until the battery voltage falls below your pre-set trip point. ‘There are several other components in the circuit which we haven't con- sidered yet. We mentioned IC2b but nothing after it. When its output goes high, the 100uF capacitor at the input to IGad discharges via the 10k resi tor and the forward-biased D1. IG2d's inputs are therefore low, resulting in its output being high. This provides gate voltage for MOSFET 1 which in turn switches on and allows a 12V or 24V fan to run, cooling the dummy loads. This is done so that the fan itself doesn’t draw power from the batteries when it is not required. While only a small drain (most fans of this type are <100mA) it would be constant and therefore would be wasteful of power. Note too that the fan is only required ifyou are not doing anything else with the heat from the dummy load{s). Regulator’s regulator ‘Transistors Q1 and Q2, in conjune- tion with zener diode ZD1 form a simple 13.8V voltage regulator for IC1, which has a maximum supply of 28V. Itis quite possible that this limit would be exceeded in a 24V system so the low-cost regulator is included. Ona 12V system the voltage regula- tor isn’t required because this circuit, keeps the battery voltage within safe levels (the supply to IC1 pin 1 would June 2005 63Component overlay with the same-size photogr only required for 12V operation and can be a resistor lead offcut. 1 PC board, 98 x 47mm, coded K222 2 3-way PC board mounting terminal blocks + 2-way PC board mounting terminal block 43.50 dummy load (see tex!) 1 42V (or 24V) fan (optional ~ see text) Heavy duty red & black hookup wire for connection to ‘5mm red LED (LED!) ‘5mm green LED (LED 2) 2 100uF 33V PC mounting electrolytics 1. 10F 83V PC mounting electrolytic 1 12nF (0.012F) polyester 1 22nF polyester Resistors (0.25W, 5%) 1 1Ma 2 420kQ 4 47kQ 2 20k0 2 10k 1 6.8kQ. 2 100k, 3 12k2 2 1k 64 SIcON CHIP simply be about 1.2V less than the battery voltage). However, ifthe battery voltage goes above 15.2V, the regulator comes into action supplying 13.8V to the IC. Finally, the two LEDs (LED1 and LED2) operate as part of the IC2 gate circuits to indicate charging and charged states rospec- tively. While on the prototype these LEDs ‘were mounted on the PC board, they would normally be extended out to a panel. Hysteresis ‘As wo said before, VR1 sets the exact trip point at which the regulator comes into play. While it is normal practice to set a car regulator to deliver 13.8V, it appoars that it is normal to set a storage system to a float charge of about 15, ‘The circuit has in-built hysteresis so that it doesn’t continually “hunt” around that 15V figure. Only when the battery voltage drops to about 14V (ie, about 1V below the trip point) will the circuit turn off and the load be disconnected. Construction ‘There's not much to theassembly. Asusual, start with the lowest-profile components (resistors, diodes) and then move onto the capacitors, transistors and MOSFETs and finally the ICs. Chock resistor values with a digital multimeter if you aren’t sure of their values. If you are using IC sockets, make sure you get the notch the right way eround! Use a resistor lead offcut to form the 12V link, ifnesded. The final components to be soldered in are the terminal blocks, the potentiometer and the LEDs. As we mentioned, before, the LEDs would normally be mounted off the PC board ~ use some thin hookup wire or rainbow cable to lying leads — but watch the polarity! The dummy load(s) ‘The Oatley Electronics kit does not contain any dummy loads ~ because each installation is different, these are left up to you. The SDPSSN0SL MOSFETs provided have an “on” re- sistance of around 11mQ and a current rating of SOA. For a dissipation of 0.5W in the MOSFET, a current of 7A can be passed without a heatsink. Ifasmall (eg, clip-on) heatsinkis provided, the powercan be more; with a decent heatsink much more. However, you ‘would soon start to run into problems with the thi of the PC board tracks, even if solder-coated. ‘We have specified the dummy loads to have a resistance of 3.58. While you can buy high power resistors of this type, a much cheaper (and in fact better) alternative is to make your own from electric jug elements. ‘These consist ofa coil of cotled resistance wire, wound ona ceramic former. In their 240V electric jug incarnation, they have a DC (cold) resistance of about 340. Naturally, ‘we need a lot less than that in a 12V or 24V system. ‘The elements we used were “Phoenix” brand, cat no E}2, as found in most hardware stores and supermarkets, Oatley siliconchip.com.au a‘A possible arrangement for the dummy loads - note the fan blowing cold air across them. The coils here have not been straightened nor doubled (as explained in the text). Electronics will also have these available for $2.50 each (probably cheaper than you can find elsewhere!) Even though the photos show coiled coils, you don't need them, so remove the wire and stretch it out until itis, straight. Twist the two ends of the wire together and find the midpoint, Using an electric drill on a slow speed, twist the two lengths of wire together over their entire Iength. Simply grip the two loose ends in the drill chuck, hold the oppo- site end firmly (a vyce is a good idea!) and hold the length reasonably taught as you turn the drill on. A couple of short bursts will twist the strands together nicely. ‘As you halved the original 349 wire, that means each strand is about 178, Now twisted together, those strands are effectively two resistors in parallel, so the length of wire is now about 8.59. You neod a bit less than half that length to get to around 3.5. Connect one multimeter lead to one end of the wire and simply drag the probe along the wire until it reads 3.59. ‘Add, say, 20cm to this to allow for terminations. ‘Wind this length back on to the ceramic former and ter minate it under the screw terminals. Check again that you have about 3.52 (it doesn’t need to be spot on). ‘As we mentioned before, it's shame to waste the energy you've generated so if you can, immerse the dummy load(s) in your hot water tank to use the energy there, Otherwiso connect a suitable fan to the fan terminals on the PC board so that the heat is romoved from the system, Setup All you need to do is monitor your battery voltage on charge and adjust VR1 so that the regulator kicks in when the battery voltage reaches the required maximum {usually 15V). Keep monitoring the voltage while the battery dis- charges and ensure that when it reaches 14V the regulator switches off. Our photograph shows four dummy loads mounted in a surplus steel case which conveniently had a 12V fan al- ready fitted. A gutted, dead, computer power supply case (but keop its 12V fan) would also be ideal. We cut most of the mounting wires off the four modified jug elements and bent those wires out 90° to allow them to be mounted in a pair of 7-way mains terminal blocks (each second terminal used). ‘These blocks were themselves mounted in the caso to siliconchip.com.au De See nts CAT) [Shiai iecmssieralt nds oui aa fssioteires cet cinta i caliton only allow maximum airflow from the fan. Of course, this is all academic if you decide to use the dummy loads as water heating elements in their own right! 24V systems We've described operation for @ 12V system but 24V systems are probably more common than 12V. The reason is simple: higher voltage equals lower current; lower cur- rent equals less line losses. In fact, 48V systems are not at all uncommon; beyond this you aro starting to get into the “danger Will Robinson!” area, especially forthe handyman with little technical background. Like it or not, that’s precisely the sort of person who is most likely to be building an alternative energy power system! Construction and setup are the same for 24V systems as for 12V, with the exception of the “12V" link. This time, though, you'd be looking for a kick-in at about 28V and a dropout 1V less, sc 9584 3561, website GST, plus P&P. r Phoenix jug elements are available at $2.50 each. JONe 2005 65Solar hot water controller ‘This circuit functions as a control unit in a solar hot water system (HWS). The temperature at the top of the pancls is compared with that in the tank and when the Sun shines brightly enough, the pump switched on, Water continues to culate through the panels for as Jongas the temperature in the panels is groator than that in the tank. Note that most solar hot water sys- tems don’t requirea circulator pump as the panels are mounted below the tank and the natural thermo-siphon offoct is relied upon to circulate the water, However, in situations whe it is more cost-effective to have the panels at the same level or higher than the tank, a circulator pump is required, hence the impetus for this design. ‘The circuit includes an anti-freeze feature that starts the pump when the water temperature in the lower panel drops below 4°C. With the addition of a digital panel motor, it can algo be used to monitor water temperature in multiple locations around the system. A series of LM335s (TS1-TS are used as temperature sensors Controller operationis based around sensors TS1 and TS2, which meas- ure the temperature in the tank and top ofthe second panel. Oneelement ofan LM339 quad comparator (IC1b) compares the voltages from these two sensors. A higher voltage on the inverting input (pin 6) than the non-inverting input (pin 7) signals a higher panel temperature. ‘This 66 SILICON CHIP causes the output of the comparator to swing low, switching on Qi and energising the relay (RLY1), This in turn applies power to the pump. A 2.2MO resistor affords some positive feedback around IC1b, ensuring jit- ter-free relay switching, ‘A second comparator (IC1a) in the package is used to monitor the temperature in the bottom of the first panel for the anti-freeze func tion. The inverting input (pin 4) is supplied with a 2.77V reference, whereas the non-inverting input is connected to TS3. As these sensors are calibrated directly in °K, they have an output of +2.73V at 0°C. Therefore, once the water in the panel drops to below 4°C (2.77V), the voltage at the non-inverting in- put will be less than the reference voltage and the comparator output swings low. This forward-biases D3 and switches on Qi, again energising the relay and starting the pump. ‘A third comparator in the package (ICic) is used to provide indication that the anti-freeze function has been activated (apart from the fact that the panels aren't frozen!), If IC1a’s output goes low, the non-inverting input (pin 9) is pulled lower than the inverting input (pin 8) and its output goes low, turning on LED1 ‘At the same time, current is drawn through the base of Q2, turning it on and providing positive feedback via the 100k resistor to the invert- ing input. This causes the output to remain latched in the on (low) state, keeping the “anti-freeze” LED illuminated even after the pump has been switched off. To reset the circuit, switch $2 must be pressed, Available Aust, only. Price: $A12.95 plus $7 p&p per order (includes GST). Just fill in and mail the handy order form in this issue; or fax (02) 9979 6503; or ring (02) 9979 5644 and quote your credit card number. overriding the positive feedback from the comparator’s output. ‘A digital panel meter (DPM) provides a convenient means of displaying water temperature at vari- ous points in the system. As well as the throe sensors mentioned above, the author added three more sen- sors (T'$4-T$6) just for monitoring purposes. The output from any of these sensors can be displayed on the DPM with the aid of a 6-posi tion rotary switch (S1). The series chokes (L1-L6) and 100nF shunt capacitors are included to filter out RF interference, necessary because the controller is situated close to a ham radio antenna. In order to read degrees Celsius directly, the negative input of the DPM is offset with a 2.73V tofor- ence, corresponding to 0°C. This voltage originates from a REF50Z temperature-compensated precision reference. The 5V output from the (REF) is divided down by rimpot VR1 and a string of resistors. ‘The trimpot should be adjusted for procisely 2.73V between the nega- tive input of the DPM and ground If readout accuracy is non-critical, then REF1 can be replaced with a (cheaper) 5.1V zener diode. ‘As shown, the circuit is powered from a small 24V centre-tapped transformer, with regulator REG1 giving a stabilised +12V output. ‘Take care to ensure that all 240VAG wiring is properly terminated and insulated. The project can be be housed in a plastic instrument case that’s protected from the elements. Keith Gooley, VK50Q siliconchip.com.au-epos e ofa dumd e yoxuuoo usny wt yor 9191-21] sioyeredwios £q paroymour axe sindyno aq, “sjoued snowseA a~p pue TED ‘aqp oy sammyexodura) arp s0yfuoMr o} (9¢.L-TS.1) SIOSUAs amyexoduta) CEEWTTJO S91s0s ¥ S95N JOT]Ox|UOD Joye or XP]OS amp JO IMMOID HL, : zac 1038 67 JUNE 2005 siliconchip.com.auTwo basic motor speed controllers Here are two simple 12V DC motor speed controllers that can be built for just a few dollars. They exploit the fact that the rotational speed of a DG motor is directly proportional to the mean value of its supply voltage. The first circuit shows how vari- able voltage speed control can be obtained vie a potentiometer (VR1) and compound emitter follower (Qi & Q2). With this arrangement, the motor's DC voltage can be varied from OV to about 12V. Fig.1: a very simple motor speed controller based on a compound emitter This type of circuit gives good follower (Ql & Q2). speed control and self-regulation at medium to high speeds but very 3 poor low-speed control end slow ‘(140018 os starts. ‘The second circuit uses a switch- mode technique to vary motor speed. Here a quad NOR gate (IC1) acts as a 50Hz estable multivibrator that generates a rectangular output. ‘The mark-space ratio of the rectan- gular waveform is fully variable from 20:1 to 1:20 via potontiome- tor VR1. The output from the multivi- brator drives the base of Q1, which 1,02 1NA148| in turn drives Q2 and the motor. a ow ‘The motor’s mean supply voltage Hass (integrated over a 50Hz period) is | [Ft [ay a 2Ns706 © thus fully variable with VR1 but is + ane applied in the form of high-energy Na “pulses” with peak values of about ——ye ce é ese 12, ak . This type of circult gives excel- _Fig.2: this slightly more complicated circuit gives better Low speed control lent full-range speed control and _and higher torque. gives high motor torque, even at very low speeds. Its degree of speed self-regulation is proportional to the mean value of the applied voltage. Note that for most applications, the power transistor (Q2) in both circuits will need to be mounted on an appropriate heatsink. Ravi Sumithraarachchi, Colombo, Sri Lanka. ($50) CONTRIBUTE AND WIN? As you can see, we pay good money for each of the “Circuit Notebook” contributions published in SILICON CuIP. But there’s an even better reason to send in your circuit idea: each month, the best contri- bution published will win a superb Peak Atlas LOR Meter valued at $195.00. So don’t keep that brilliant circuit secret any more: sketch it out, write a brief description and send it to SILICON CHIP and you could be a winner! 68 SILICON CHIPOp amp building blocks Here’s a series of basic op amp circuits that havea multitude of as building blocks in larger circuits. They all use a minimum number of components and with one exception, component values are non-critical All op amps are FET-input types such as the TL071/2/4 single/dual/ quad varieties and all diodes are small-signal 1N4148s, All circuits are derived from the basic function block shown in Fig.1, which we'll refer to as a "MAX" function. Its operation is as follows; if the voltage applied to V2 is less than V1, the output of the op amp is close to the negative supply rail, reverse-biasing diode D1. The out- put voltage is then just V1, as sen through the 100k® resistor. Conversely, if V2 is groater than V1, the op amp’s output swings positive so that D1 is forward biased and the voltage at the inverting input of the op amp (and hence Vou) is equal to V2. For best results, V1 should be driven by a low-impedance source such as an op amp connected as @ voltage follower. The value of the input resistor (shown as 1000} is not critical. In addition, any circuitry connected to Vou should have an impedance greater than about 1MQ. Reversing D1 gives a “MIN” func tion block (not shown), whose opera- tion should be self-explanatory. Fig.2 shows a precision clipper, made by merging a MAX and a MIN function block. The signal at Via is transformed to the signal at Vout by clipping it when itis greater than V1 orless than V2. Asbefore, V1 should be driven by a low-impedance 10k Vin OW} 10 vor source and any circuitry connected to Vout should have an impedance greater than about 1MQ. Fig.3 shows a precision full wave rectifier. Op amp A, resistor R1, and diode D1 form a half-wave rectifier (this part of the circuit is equivalent to a MAX function block with V2 equal to OV). Op amp B is configured with resistors R2 and R3 to subtract the original input signal at Vin from twice the half-wave rectified signal, giving the full wave rectified signal at Vout This circuit needs fewer matched resistors than some other designs. For linear operation, R2 and R3 should be equal. The value of R1 is not critical. Once again, Vi should scr oe _t_ ve——_| Vi,IFVia> VI VRIFVing V2 Ves OTHERWISE be driven by a low-impedance source such as an opamp connected as a voltage follower. Fig.4 shows a precision 2-way signal selector, It is made from two MIN function blocks (op amps B and C), one MAX function block (op amp D), and an op amp wired as an inverter (op amp A). None of the re- sistor values are critical nor do they have to be matched to achieve linear operation. For best results, “select” should be driven by asource with an impedance of less than about 10k and any circuitry connected to Vout should have an impedance greater than about 1MQ. ‘Andrew Partridge, Kuranda, Qld. ($50) Fig.4 siliconchip.com.au June 2005 69
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