©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Argentina
Salta & the Iguazú Falls &
Andean Northwest the Northeast
p217 p150
Córdoba &
the Central
Mendoza & Sierras Uruguay
the Central Andes p282 p513
p315 Buenos Aires p52
The Pampas &
the Atlantic Coast
p116
Bariloche &
the Lake District
p353

Patagonia
p397

Tierra del Fuego

p488

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Sandra Bao,
Gregor Clark, Carolyn McCarthy, Andy Symington, Lucas Vidgen
 PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Argentina. . . . 6 BUENOS AIRES. . . . . . 52 Concepción del
Uruguay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Argentina Map . . . . . . . . . . 8 Around Buenos Aires. . . 114
Colón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Argentina’s Top 20. . . . . . 10 Tigre & the Delta . . . . . . . . 114
Parque Nacional
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 20 El Palmar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
THE PAMPAS & THE Concordia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
What’s New. . . . . . . . . . . . 22 ATLANTIC COAST. . .116 Paso de los Libres. . . . . . . 185
If You Like.... . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Northern Pampas. . . . . . 117 Misiones. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 26 La Plata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Posadas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Luján. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 San Ignacio. . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
San Antonio de Areco. . . . 122 The Other Missions. . . . . . 192
Argentina Outdoors. . . . . 34 Southern Pampas. . . . . . 125 Iguazú Falls. . . . . . . . . . . 195
Eat & Drink Tandil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Parque Nacional
Like a Local. . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Sierra de la Ventana . . . . . 130 Iguazú. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
Travel with Children. . . . . 45 Parque Provincial Ernesto Parque Nacional do
Tornquist. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Iguaçu (Brazil) . . . . . . . . . 200
Regions at a Glance. . . . . 47 Puerto Iguazú. . . . . . . . . . 202
Santa Rosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Reserva Provincial Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil). . . 207
Parque Luro. . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 The Gran Chaco . . . . . . . 210
MICHAEL TAYLOR /GETTY IMAGES ©

Parque Nacional Resistencia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210

Lihué Calel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Parque Nacional Chaco. . . 215
Atlantic Coast. . . . . . . . . 134
Roque Sáenz Peña. . . . . . . 215
San Clemente del
Tuyú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Pinamar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 SALTA & THE
Villa Gesell. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 ANDEAN
NORTHWEST. . . . . . . 217
Mar del Plata. . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Necochea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Salta & Jujuy
Provinces. . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Bahía Blanca. . . . . . . . . . . . 148
OBELISCO, Salta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
BUENOS AIRES P66
Valles Calchaquíes. . . . . . 232
IGUAZÚ FALLS & Cafayate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
THE NORTHEAST. . . 150
Quebrada de Cafayate . . . 241
Along the Río Paraná. . . 151
JOHN W BANAGAN /GETTY IMAGES ©

San Antonio de los

Rosario. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Cobres. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
Santa Fe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Salinas Grandes. . . . . . . . 242
Cayastá . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Jujuy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
Paraná . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Las Yungas . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
Corrientes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Quebrada de
Mercedes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Humahuaca. . . . . . . . . . . . 246
Reserva Provincial La Quiaca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
Esteros del Iberá . . . . . . . . 175 Yavi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256
Along the Río Tucumán & Around. . . . . 256
TOUCAN, IGUAZÚ FALLS
Uruguay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Tucumán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
P195
 Contents

Mina Clavero. . . . . . . . . . . 307

San Luis & Around. . . . 308
WAYNE WALTON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Merlo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309
San Luis. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
Around San Luis. . . . . . . . . 311
Parque Nacional Sierra
de las Quijadas. . . . . . . . . . 312
Valle de las
Sierras Puntanas. . . . . . . . 312
Valle de Conlara. . . . . . . . . 313

MENDOZA &
THE CENTRAL
ANDES. . . . . . . . . . . . 315
Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317
Around Mendoza . . . . . . . . 331
Uspallata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
Los Penitentes . . . . . . . . . 335
Puente del Inca. . . . . . . . . 335
Parque Provincial
Aconcagua. . . . . . . . . . . . . 336
Las Cuevas &
Cristo Redentor . . . . . . . . 338
Parque Provincial Volcán
Tupungato. . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY
P514
San Rafael. . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
Cañon del Atuel & Valle
Grande. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
Tafí del Valle . . . . . . . . . . . 263 CÓRDOBA &
Malargüe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
Around Tafí del Valle . . . . 265 THE CENTRAL
SIERRAS . . . . . . . . . . 282 Around Malargüe. . . . . . . 342
Santa María. . . . . . . . . . . . 266
Las Leñas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343
Amaicha del Valle. . . . . . . 266 Córdoba. . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
South along the Ruta
Quilmes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 The Central Sierras. . . 296 Nacional 40. . . . . . . . . . . . 344
Santiago del Estero. . . . . 267 Cosquín. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 San Juan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344
Catamarca & La Cumbre. . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 Around San Juan. . . . . . . 347
La Rioja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 San Marcos de las Valle de Calingasta. . . . . . 347
Catamarca. . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Sierras. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299
San José de Jáchal . . . . . 350
Belén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Jesús María. . . . . . . . . . . . 300
Rodeo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
Around Belén . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Alta Gracia. . . . . . . . . . . . . 300
San Agustín de
Western Catamarca. . . . . . 273 Villa General Belgrano. . . 303 Valle Fértil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351
La Rioja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 La Cumbrecita . . . . . . . . . 306 Parque Provincial
Chilecito. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 Parque Nacional Ischigualasto. . . . . . . . . . . 352
Parque Nacional Quebrada del
Talampaya. . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Condorito. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
ON THE ROAD

BARILOCHE & THE Comodoro Rivadavia. . . . . 418

LAKE DISTRICT . . . . 353 Puerto Deseado. . . . . . . . 420

LONELY PLANET /GETTY IMAGES ©

Bariloche. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 Reserva Natural Ría
Deseado & Parque
Parque Nacional Nahuel Interjurisdiccional
Huapi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 Marino Isla Pingüino. . . . 423
El Bolsón. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Monumento Natural
Around El Bolsón. . . . . . . 369 Bosques Petrificados . . . 423
Villa la Angostura. . . . . . . 370 Puerto San Julián. . . . . . . 424
Villa Traful. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374 Parque Nacional
San Martín de Monte León. . . . . . . . . . . . 425
los Andes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 375 Río Gallegos . . . . . . . . . . . 426
Cerro Chapelco. . . . . . . . . 379 Around Río Gallegos . . . . 429
Parque Nacional Lanín . . 379 Inland Patagonia . . . . . 429
Junín de los Andes. . . . . . 382 Esquel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429
Aluminé. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 Trevelin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433
Villa Pehuenia. . . . . . . . . . 385 Parque Nacional Los
Caviahue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Alerces. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 437
Copahue. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Gobernador Costa. . . . . . 440
Chos Malal. . . . . . . . . . . . . 390 Río Mayo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441
North along the Ruta Perito Moreno. . . . . . . . . . . 441
Nacional 40. . . . . . . . . . . . 390 Los Antiguos. . . . . . . . . . . 442
Zapala. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .390 Cueva de las Manos. . . . . 444
Parque Nacional Laguna Bajo Caracoles. . . . . . . . . 444
Blanca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393 Parque Nacional Perito
Neuquén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393 Moreno. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444
Gobernador Gregores. . . 446
PATAGONIA. . . . . . . . 397 El Chaltén . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446
Coastal Patagonia . . . . 400 Parque Nacional Los TIERRA DEL
Glaciares (North). . . . . . . 452 FUEGO . . . . . . . . . . . 488
Puerto Madryn. . . . . . . . . 400
El Calafate. . . . . . . . . . . . . 455 Ushuaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489
Around Puerto
Madryn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405 Around El Calafate. . . . . . 464 Parque Nacional
Coastal Río Negro . . . . . . 406 Parque Nacional Los Tierra del Fuego. . . . . . 504
Glaciares (South). . . . . . . 464 Puerto Williams
Reserva Faunística
Península Valdés . . . . . . . 406 Chilean Patagonia . . . . 468 (Chile). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 507
Trelew. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411 Punta Arenas . . . . . . . . . . 468 Tolhuin & Lago
Fagnano. . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
Around Trelew. . . . . . . . . . . 414 Around Punta Arenas . . . 473
Río Grande. . . . . . . . . . . 509
Gaiman. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414 Puerto Natales. . . . . . . . . . 474
Estancias Around Río
Around Gaiman . . . . . . . . . 416 Parque Nacional Bernardo Grande. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510
O’Higgins. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 479
Área Natural Protegida Porvenir (Chile) . . . . . . . 510
Punta Tombo. . . . . . . . . . . . 416 Parque Nacional
Torres del Paine. . . . . . . . 479
Camarones . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417
The Falkland Islands/
Cabo Dos Bahías . . . . . . . . 418 Islas Malvinas. . . . . . . . 486
 Contents
UNDERSTAND

Argentina
Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572
History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 574
Life in Argentina. . . . . . . 584
The Sounds of
Argentina. . . . . . . . . . . . . 586
Literature &
Cinema. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 588
The Natural World . . . . . 590

SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . 598
Transportation . . . . . . . . 610
Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 616
Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 625
Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 638
FÚTBOL (SOCCER)
SPECTATORS P80

URUGUAY. . . . . . . . . . 513 La Paloma. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 557

Montevideo. . . . . . . . . . . 515 La Pedrera. . . . . . . . . . . . . 558
Western Uruguay . . . . . 534 Cabo Polonio. . . . . . . . . . . 559
Colonia del Laguna de Castillos. . . . . . 561
Sacramento. . . . . . . . . . . . 535 Punta del Diablo. . . . . . . . . 561
Carmelo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540 Parque Nacional SPECIAL FEATURES
Mercedes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 541 Santa Teresa. . . . . . . . . . . 563
Going to the Fútbol. . . . . 80
Paysandú. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543 Understand Uruguay. . . 564
Salto. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 544 Survival Guide. . . . . . . . 566 Argentine Tango. . . . . . . 100
Tacuarembó . . . . . . . . . . . 546 Staying on an
Valle Edén . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547 Estancia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Eastern Uruguay. . . . . . . 547 Wine of Mendoza. . . . . . 322
Piriápolis. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547 Patagonian Wildlife. . . . 434
Around Piriápolis. . . . . . . 549
Extreme Patagonia . . . . 462
Punta del Este. . . . . . . . . . 549
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
29

Itineraries
San Antonio
de Areco Colonia del
URUGUAY
•
# Tigre Sacramento
É
É •
# •
#
# f
_ # R É
BUENOS AIRES ío
ÉÉ
•
#
de _
#
la MONTEVIDEO
La Plata Pl
at
a
É

AT L A N T I C
OCEAN
É

# Pinamar
•

# Villa Gesell
•
•
#
Tandil É

Mar del •
#
Plata

1 K A Week Around Buenos Aires

WEE

Seen the capital city from top to bottom and wondering what else to do? Well, if you like
water, Tigre is a great nearby choice – a bustling delta and popular porteño (Buenos
Aires resident) getaway. And not far away is peaceful San Antonio de Areco, with a
history of gaucho culture and surrounded by estancias (ranches) – or tidy La Plata, with
its huge cathedral.
Perhaps you’d prefer the beach? Pinamar and Villa Gesell make a great summer
weekend trip, as does Mar del Plata – the biggest Argentine beach destination of them
all. Or head inland to Tandil, a pretty town near scenic hills and a large recreational
reservoir.
And then there’s Uruguay – just a (relatively) short boat ride away. Colonia del
­ acramento is truly charming, filled with cobbled streets and atmospheric colonial
S
buildings, while Montevideo is kind of like BA’s little sister – smaller and less frantic,
but still offering big-city delights such as a beautiful theater, historic downtown and
eclectic architecture.
30
BOLIVIA
BRAZIL
CHILE PARAGUAY
•
#
Salta
÷ Parque
#

É
Nacional

É
Iguazú
PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s

É # Córdoba
•

PA C I F I C •
#
Mendoza URUGUAY
OCEAN –
# _
#
BUENOS

É
AIRES

É
–
#
Bariloche •
#
Lake
District ÷ Reserva Faunística
# Península Valdés

AT L AN TI C
É

–
#
Parque Nacional • # El Chaltén OCEAN
Los Glaciares #
÷
# El Calafate
•
Parque Nacional #÷ FALKLAND ISLANDS
É

Torres del Paine (Islas Malvinas)

É

•
#
Ushuaia

5 KS Unmissable Argentina
WEE

Argentina is a huge country – the world’s eighth-largest – and experiencing all its high-
lights thoroughly will require at least a month, plus several airplane flights. If you want
to see both the north and south, plan your trip accordingly: Patagonia is best in Janu-
ary and February, but this is when the northern deserts are at their hottest (doing both
regions might be best in spring or fall). Tailor the following destinations to your tastes,
spending more or less time where you want to.
Take a few days to explore the wonders of Buenos Aires, with its fascinating neigh-
borhoods and big-city sights. If it’s the right season, fly south for wildlife viewing at
Reserva Faunística Península Valdés – the whales, elephant seals and penguins are
especially popular. From here hop another flight to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in
the world and prime jumping-off point to Antarctica (add another two weeks and mini-
mum US$5000 for this trip!).
Now you’ll head north to El Calafate, where the stunning Glaciar Perito Moreno is
one of the world’s most unique sights. If you love the outdoors, cross the border to Chile’s
Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, an awe-inspiring cluster of mountains boasting
some of the earth’s most beautiful landscapes. Back in Argentina is El Chaltén, another
world-class climbing, trekking and camping destination.
Further up the Andes is Argentina’s Lake District, where a chocolate stop in
Bariloche­ is a must. Gorgeous scenery, outdoor activities and lovely nearby towns can
easily add days to your itinerary. Your next destination is now Mendoza, Argentina’s
wine mecca, which also offers great outdoor adventures and mind-blowing Andean
scenery. A 10-hour bus ride lands you in Córdoba, the country’s second-largest city with
amazing colonial architecture and cutting-edge culture. From here go north to pretty
Salta, where you can explore colorful canyons, charming villages and desert panoramas.
Pack up your bags again and head east to Parque Nacional Iguazú, where the
world’s most massive falls will astound you. Now fly back to Buenos Aires and party till
your plane leaves.
 31
PAWEL TOCZYNSKI/GETTY IMAGES ©

PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s

Above: Lago Nahuel

JOHN W BANAGAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

Huapi (p362), near

Bariloche
Right: Buildings on
El Caminito (p69),
Buenos Aires
32
BOLIVIA
Patagonian Passage Quebrada de • BRAZIL
Humahuaca # PARAGUAY
Ruta Nacional 40 Salta •
#
•
# Valles Calchaquíes
Cafayate •
#

CHILE

É
PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s

PA C I F I C
OCEAN Mendoza •
#
URUGUAY

É
Chos Malal •
#
San Martín de los Andes •
#
÷ Villa
Parque Nacional Lanín #
Traful
Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi #
֥ # Puerto Madryn
É •
Bariloche •
# ##÷ Reserva Faunística
Península Valdés
# El Bolsón
•
É
–
# AT L AN TI C
Cueva de las Manos • #
El Chaltén •
# OCEAN
Glaciar Perito Moreno •#•# El Calafate

Parque Nacional #÷ É# FALKLAND ISLANDS

Torres del Paine – (Islas Malvinas)
É

Parque Nacional
•
# ÷
# Tierra del Fuego
Ushuaia

3DA0YS Ruta Nacional 40 1A8YS Patagonian

D
Passage
Argentina’s quintessential road trip, RN40 Begin in Ushuaia, where you can kayak
travels the length of the country. To do this or hop on a boat to cruise around the
adventure independently you’ll need to ­Beagle Channel and possibly see penguins.
rent a vehicle, ideally a 4WD as some sec- Nearby Parque Nacional Tierra del
tions are still unpaved. Fuego offers a few end-of-the-world hikes
(literally).
Start near the amazingly colorful moun-
tainsides of Quebrada de Humahuaca Now fly to El Calafate and lay your
before hitting Salta and the wildly scenic eyes on the spectacular and unforgettable
villages of Valles Calchaquíes. Pause at Glaciar Perito Moreno. Outdoors-
lovely Cafayate before the long trip down lovers will want to cross the border and
to Mendoza to suss out the wine scene. trek in Chile’s famous Parque Nacional
Torres del Paine. Head north again to
Continue south, stopping to check out
El Chaltén for world-class hiking and
the lagoons and hot springs around Chos
camping.
Malal. Explore the national parks of
Lanín and Nahuel Huapi or epic hiking Fly to Bariloche, where you can hike
before hitting San Martín de los Andes (or fish, or raft, or bike) for days on end in
and Bariloche. Further on, sidetrack to the gorgeous national parks of Nahuel
Cueva de las Manos for indigenous art. Huapi and Lanín. If you have an extra
day or two, take a day trip to the hippie
Stop at El Chaltén for top-drawer hik-
enclave of El Bolsón or the cute village of
ing, then experience the Glaciar Perito
Villa Traful.
Moreno. Cross the border to Chile and
explore stunning Parque Nacional Finally, stop in Puerto Madryn to see
Torres del Paine before your last stop, the whales, elephant seals and penguins at
Ushuaia; it’s as far south as any highway Reserva Faunística Península Valdés –
in the world goes. just make sure it’s the right season.
 33

Tilcara •
#

É
Quebrada de
PARAGUAY

É
Valles Humahuaca
PA C I F I C Calchaquíes
# Salta
•
Cachi •
#
É
OCEAN
•
# •
#
Molinos Quebrada

PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s
•
# É
de Cafayate ÷
#
Cafayate

–
#
CHILE

É
Parque
•
# Tucumán É Nacional
Tafí del Valle •
#
Iguazú
Reserva Provincial #
÷
Esteros del Iberá
Parque Nacional

É
÷ Talampaya
#
Rodeo, Huaco
É

# É#
& San José de • ÷ Parque Provincial
Ischigualasto BRAZIL
Jáchal
É

Barreal •
# É # San Juan
• •
#
Córdoba
Cerro
Aconcagua •
# URUGUAY
•
# É
É

Mendoza
É
Mendoza Wine &
San Rafael •# Adventures
Cañon de Atuel •
# Northern Adventure Loop

3 KS Northern 2 KS Mendoza Wine &

WEE Adventure Loop WEE Adventures
Start in Córdoba, Argentina’s second- Uncork your trip in beautiful Mendoza,
largest city, to explore one of the country’s located on the flanks of the Andes. Not
finest colonial centers. only are there world-class vineyards sur-
rounding the city, but outdoor enthusiasts
Now head north to historic Tucumán
will be in heaven. White-water rafting and
for some eclectic architecture and a lively
skiing are awesome in the area, and Cerro
street scene. Over to the west is pretty Tafí
Aconcagua (the western hemisphere’s
del Valle, and getting there via a gorgeous
highest peak) isn’t too far away.
mountain road is half the fun. A bit further
north is beautiful Cafayate, the place to Now take a crack-of-dawn bus to San
knock back some aromatic torrontés wine. Rafael, where you can rent a bike and
Sober up and travel through the epic Que- ride out to the city’s wineries – some of
brada de Cafayate to the otherworldly which specialize in sparkling wine. The
region of Valles Calchaquíes and the area is also home to scenic Cañon de At-
adobe villages of Cachi and Molinos. uel, a colorful mini Grand Canyon. Then
backtrack up north to San Juan to try the
Salta’s central plaza is one of Argen-
excellent syrah and other regional whites.
tina’s best preserved; this is also where the
You can also rent a car and head west to
famous ‘Train to the Clouds’ begins. Now
ethereal Barreal for rafting, mountaineer-
journey north through the magnificently
ing and land sailing, then go further north
eroded valley of Quebrada de Huma-
to explore the remote and traditional vil-
huaca, where you can overnight in lively
lages of San José de Jáchal, Rodeo and
little Tilcara.
Huaco.
Return to Salta and fly to the incredible
Finally, be sure to visit the amazing
Parque Nacional Iguazú, home to un­
landscapes of Parque Provincial Is-
believable waterfalls. Another worthy des-
chigualasto and Parque Nacional Ta-
tination is Reserva Provincial Esteros
lampaya, both boasting spectacular rock
del Iberá, an amazing wetlands preserve
formations – along with petroglyphs and
full of capybaras, caimans and birds.
dinosaur fossils.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Andy Symington
Iguazú Falls & the Northeast, Salta & the Andean Northwest Andy’s relationship
with Argentina is a story of four generations: his grandmother lived here in the
1920s, and her father had a mate plantation in the northeast. Andy first visited
the country with his own father, the start of a long love affair that has involved
many trips all around the nation, a spell living and working in Buenos Aires, and
a deep-rooted respect for provincial Argentina. Andy hails from Australia, lives in
northern Spain, and has contributed to many Lonely Planet guidebooks.
Read more about Andy at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/andy_symington

Lucas Vidgen
Córdoba & the Central Sierras, Mendoza & the Central Andes, Bariloche & the
Lake District Lucas first visited Argentina in 2001, and was captivated by the
country’s wide open spaces and cosmopolitan cities. The huge amount of quality
beef and wine didn’t go unnoticed, either. Lucas has contributed to a variety of
Latin American Lonely Planet titles including various editions of the Argentina
and South America books. He currently lives in Quetzaltenango, Guatemala,
where he publishes – and occasionally works on – the city’s leading nightlife and culture magazine,
XelaWho (www.xelawho.com).
 OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London,
Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief
that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS
Sandra Bao
Coordinating Author, Buenos Aires Sandra’s mom and her family escaped
China’s communist regime in the years following WWII, eventually boarding a
freighter bound for Argentina in 1952. After months at sea they arrived in Bue-
nos Aires – just two days after the death of Eva Perón. Sandra’s parents married
in Montevideo, Uruguay, then raised Sandra and her brother Daniel in BA. They
lived the carefree porteño life (with asados every Sunday) until 1974, when
things got politically dicey. Once again the Baos emigrated to greener pastures, this time the USA.
Sandra is proud to be a porteña and has regularly returned to her homeland as an adult, watching
the peso fluctuate wildly through the decades. Over the last 14 years she’s contributed to dozens
of Lonely Planet guidebooks. Sandra also updated the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival
Guide sections. Read more about Sandra at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/sandrabao

Gregor Clark
The Pampas & the Atlantic Coast, Uruguay Over the past 25 years, Gregor has
travelled South America from tip to tail, developing a special fondness for Uru-
guay while researching the last four editions of this book. Favorite memories
from this trip include admiring bird’s-eye views of the pampas through the natu-
ral rock window atop Cerro de la Ventana in a screaming windstorm and riding
horses at Estancia El Galope. He has contributed to two dozen other Lonely
Planet titles, including Brazil and South America on a Shoestring.
Read more about Gregor at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/gregorclark

Carolyn McCarthy
Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego Carolyn first fell for Argentina teaching English in
Buenos Aires when the peso floated on par with the US dollar. For this trip, she
traveled overland over 7500km, trekking in national parks, communing with
Magellanic penguins and leaking radiator fluid. When not writing about Patago-
nia, she tries to visit tropical nations. Carolyn has contributed to more than 20
Lonely Planet titles, including Trekking in the Patagonian Andes, and has written
for National Geographic, Outside, Boston Globe and other publications.

OVER MORE
PAGE WRITERS
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