The Cauldron System

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The Cauldron Roulette System

Mark off around the wheel the last 10 individual numbers hit. This could take as little as 10 spins
or many more – I’ve seen it take up to 21 numbers.

These 10 numbers are your first group of four groups we will create for the next round of bets.

Now starting from the zero (or if zero is part of the first group of 10, the next available un-hit
number in a clockwise direction - you can go anti clockwise if that is more comfortable) mark each
un-hit number in succession around the wheel with the numbers 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3-
1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3.

Each pocket of the wheel is now marked all the way around with either a 1 or a 2 or a 3 or a
stroke/dot.

These are the four groups we will use for the next round of bets.

By the time you have set up the wheel there will likely have been another spin, and we use that
number as the first trigger. Note what group that number belongs to and bet that group once with
1 unit. This will cost either 9 or 10 units. If it wins we clear our chips, wipe the slate and start
anew setting up the wheel once again with the last 10 numbers out, and the remainder grouped 1-
2-3. Unless the first betted group was the 10 number group. If it was the 10-number group and it
wins, then we recall the bet and let it ride. We will recall and let it ride indefinitely until such time
as the 10-number group loses before proceeding to the next bet stage. We do this because a win
on the 10-number group will not change the situation of our 4 groups if we reset.

If or when the first bet loses we note what group that next number belongs to. We recall the
original bet then add in the numbers from the new group. This will cost either 18 or 19 units. If it
wins we clear our chips, wipe the slate and start anew setting up the wheel once again with the
last 10 numbers out, and the remainder grouped 1-2-3.

If the second stage bet loses then we note what group that next number belongs to. If we reach
this point it means that 3 of the 4 groups have hit since we set up the wheel. The next stage bet is
the group that has yet to hit. This will cost either 9 or 10 units. If it wins we clear our chips, wipe
the slate and start anew setting up the wheel once again with the last 10 numbers out, and the
remainder grouped 1-2-3.

If all 3 bet stages lose, we clear our chips, wipe the slate and start anew setting up the wheel once
again with the last 10 numbers out, and the remainder grouped 1-2-3. When all 3 bets lose we will
now be betting on stage 1 of the next round.

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Staking:

I would recommend flat betting this system until you become proficient, perhaps several months.

After a while you might want to introduce a bit of a progression.

My progression is 1-2-1-2-1-2-1-2-1-2, etc.

This is how I shift between 1 and 2 units:

For shifting purposes I do not count the extra chip from the 10-number group bets when assessing
a break even.
I split the game into bets of 9 units and bets of 18 units, each running its own progression.

9 unit bets get 4 chances to win – 18 unit bets get 2 chances to win.

Any bet wins = Raise or hold. Start new bet.


Any bet loses = Lower or hold. Start new bet.
Any bet breaks even = Raise or hold. Start new bet.
Any bet breaks even 2 or more times in a row = lower and hold. Start new bet.

--------------------------

When playing this system you either need a stack of disposable wheel diagrams, or use a
laminated wheel diagram with easy erase projector pen. I use a laminated card with 2 wheels on
it, one above the other because it is so easy and I sometimes play this system in conjunction with
1 or 2 other complimentary methods.

One thing I like about playing this system is that by always starting with the last 10 hit numbers
marked out you get visual snapshots of how the ball is moving around different areas of the wheel,
and sometimes this leads to other bets, in fact I made another system using these movements
(The Cauldron is better). Generally the 10-number group will clump and spread, clump and spread
around different wheel sections which is visually interesting to witness.

I will run through some hypothetical scenarios so you can see how it’s done.

First 10 numbers out:


3
28
20
21
2
23
17
0
36
11

Next 2 numbers out:


12
4

This first example results in a win on the first bet.

After set up the first number out is #12 signaling a bet on group 1.

 Bet 1 unit each on 32,4,6,30,5,33,31,18,12. = -9 units.

Next number out is #4. Group 1 wins.


Return = 36 units / 36 – 9 = +27 units.

First attachment shows how I mark the game.

 In the centre above the line you can see group 1 hit twice.
Below the line on the left shows the last group out, on the right shows what group is bet, and the
result.

Second attachment shows the card set up for the next bet with the last 10 numbers marked, etc.
You can see numbers 3,28 have been dropped, and numbers 12,4 added to the 10 number group,
also changing the arrangement of the other groups for the next game.

I will run through some hypothetical scenarios so you can see how it’s done.

First 10 numbers out:


3
28
20
21
2
23
17
0
36
11

Next 2 numbers out:


12
4

This first example results in a win on the first bet.

After set up the first number out is #12 signaling a bet on group 1.
 Bet 1 unit each on 32,4,6,30,5,33,31,18,12. = -9 units.

Next number out is #4. Group 1 wins.


Return = 36 units / 36 – 9 = +27 units.

First attachment shows how I mark the game.

 In the centre above the line you can see group 1 hit twice.
Below the line on the left shows the last group out, on the right shows what group is bet, and the
result.

Second attachment shows the card set up for the next bet with the last 10 numbers marked, etc.
You can see numbers 3,28 have been dropped, and numbers 12,4 added to the 10 number group,
also changing the arrangement of the other groups for the next game.
Next scenario.

First 10 numbers out:


3
28
20
21
2
23
17
0
36
11

Next 3 numbers out:


12
15
24

This next example results in a win on the second bet.

After set up the first number out is #12 signaling a bet on group 1.

 Bet 1 unit each on 32,4,6,30,5,33,31,18,12. = -9 units.

Next number out is #15. Group 1 lost signaling a bet on groups 1&2.

Bet 1 unit each on 32,4,6,30,5,33,31,18,12 &  15,25,27,8,24,1,9,29,35. = -18 units.

Next number out is #24. Group 2 wins.


Return = 36 units / 36 – 27 = +9 units.

First attachment shows how I mark the game.

 In the centre above the line you can see group 1 hit once & group 2 hit twice.
Below the line on the left shows the 2 hit groups, on the right shows what groups were bet, and
the results.

Second attachment shows the card set up for the next bet with the last 10 numbers marked, etc.
You can see numbers 3,28,20 have been dropped, and numbers 12,15,24 added to the 10 number
group, also changing the arrangement of the other groups for the next game.
When I play The Cauldron I use a 500 unit bankroll.
If it starts off bad I’ll play for up to 200 spins and cash out with minimal profit if I manage to
recover. I believe this system will always recover from a bad start, the problem being spin
duration. It might take many more spins than you’re physically able to endure so you need to be
practical and set limits. If it starts off good I will cash out with whatever I can get. Sometimes 20
units, sometimes 200, generally around 100.

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