Portrait Drawing Cheat Sheet
Portrait Drawing Cheat Sheet
Portrait Drawing Cheat Sheet
By Chris Petrocchi
Drawing the Head Quick Start Cheat Sheet
Student outcomes:
Almost every drawing problem that you can encounter is available to solve in drawing
the head. The artist’s challenge is to use visual language such as shapes, values and
edges, how to turn the form and make it round or hard, how to control values,
perspective etc. to solve these problems in a convincing way. The first problem is
much more about how you see than about how you draw. More important than
drawing details (like eyelashes, lips, nostrils) is dealing first with 2 dimensional shapes
(triangles, circles, squares etc.)
You are looking to interpret the 3D shapes you see on the face into flat 2D “puzzle
pieces” of dark and light shapes that come together as a representation of the face
before you. Your job is to first understand and repeat what you see in a 2D sense with
one part of your brain, and then to embellish it and interpret it into a 3D form with the
other part of your brain. It’s not one or the other, but rather, both parts of the brain
working in tandem to produce a satisfactory result. Since most everything we draw in
the real world has three dimensions in space the main problem to solve is how to
convert that visual information onto a two dimensional surface with 2D shapes, and
then using additional drawing tools to sculpt the shapes into 3D forms that give you
the desired result. You will need to specialize in both the ability to see the 2D shapes
and the ability to block things in structurally. Switching back and forth in your thinking
from 2D to 3D is a complex task at first, so let’s break it down into more manageable
parts.
Squint and edit things down to an easier problem to solve. That is to say, squint until
all the values fall into either all dark or all light, kind of like a bad Xerox interprets an
image and makes it all black or white. When a camera records a picture of an object it
doesn’t “know” what it is looking at as we do. It just records light and dark shapes,
period. At the outset you want to turn off that part of your brain that looks at the
model and thinks, “I am looking at a nose or a mouth or hair etc., and thinks instead,
what kind of shape is that? Is it a circle, a triangle, a cylinder? Is it dark or light in value?
Keep in confined to the 2D nature of what you are looking at. This has the advantage
of enabling you to get your “foot” in the drawing and get you on your way.
Fig. 1 Initial 2D analysis of the model
Above is an example of a bad Xerox. Notice how all the values are confined to either a
black or a white value and therefor very manageable. The shapes are flat and 2D in
nature quite like puzzle pieces that when put together in the right order and
relationship constellate a face. All the details are left out and what you have left is the
overall big impression. This is what you are hunting for at the outset.
Fig. 2 Squinting to see value and reduce complexity of detail
A. Heavy duty squint separating B. Medium squint revealing 2 C. No squint with eyes wide
all values into either values in the light family and 2 open revealing the full range of
light or dark families values in the dark family. values. Moving from A to C can
be achieved by adjusting the
quality of the edges (i.e., hard or
soft).
Module 2: Lighting
One-source lighting is the best for showing the form in a sculptural way and the best
for explaining the form. In one source lighting the shapes are very clear and you can
almost cut them out with scissors. More important than drawing details (like
eyelashes, lips, nostrils) is dealing first with 2 dimensional shapes (triangles, circles,
squares etc.)
Diffuse lighting is fuzzy and unclear in how it describes the form; it is the local color
that defines the shapes and not the values.
Fig. 3 Examples of one source lighting
Fig. 4 Examples of Diffuse Lighting
Light and dark shapes are 2D puzzles pieces that interlock together. When you look at
your model in terms of light and dark 2D shapes that relate to one another it will help
you organize what you see and therefor what you draw. This is a great start and it
helps you get your drawing off to a good start, but if you stop there then the best you
can hope for is a copy of what you see. You are not to merely mimic what you see;
your job is to make it better by sculpting 3D architecture from the 2D shapes that you
put down on paper. That is to say, give better explanation to your shapes.
The Reilly abstraction is a kind of diagram and is a great tool to show the box like
structure of the head and the features of the face contained therein so that your
drawings look 3D. When you are practicing drawing the planes and rhythms the point
is to overdo the box; overdo the diagram to give a better explanation of the things you
are trying to show. This has less to do with learning how to draw and more to do with
learning how to see what you are looking at. Its not just 20 separate puzzle pieces that
end up in your drawing hopefully looking like a head, it’s about making the head a
unit by relating all the parts together. Knowing the planes and rhythms of the head
helps you to draw through your shapes and connect everything together. You have to
do a dozen of these diagrammatic drawings to become familiar with them so you can
use them as a tools to draw the face and better explanation what is being represented.
It’s a diagram and not “real life”. Do it enough t so that it is part of your tool kit.
However, when you draw the model, be careful not to draw a diagrammatic looking
drawing---draw the model!
Working form photographs with a tracing paper overlay is a great way to practice the
planes and rhythms of the head. Practice doing a dozen of them from front, ¾ and side
views until it becomes firmly fixed in your mind and in your muscle memory so that
you have it for instant recall. These diagrams are visual explanations about what you
are seeing and help you understand the structure and anatomy better. Initially, when
beginning to draw from the model. it’s better to have more clear explanations than
better rendering. It can really help you to squeeze as much architecture out of your 2D
shapes as possible. Anything that helps clarify the shape and makes the sculpture or
form more convincing is the most important thing. Make structure the “star”. You
won’t need to use every construction line that you know in every drawing. Just use the
ones that help explain what you are looking at better. It’s like knowing all the letters in
the alphabet. You don’t use them all in every sentence; you just use the ones that are
useful for communicating what you want to say.
You can’t draw it well if you don’t know why it’s happening
If you get into a drawing and find that your initial 2D shapes are not working, then do
some construction studies of the thing so that you can draw it with conviction. When
doing construction studies don’t make them pretty drawings; just make sure they are
well explained. Something that your assistant can take and make a sculpture from the
information that you have given him in the diagram. Look for the big sculpture and
then for smaller and smaller details. Remember, all you can hope for if you only copy
the 2D shapes is just a good copy because your drawing won’t show an understanding
of why something is happening. For example, with a foreign language, you can copy
the letters, but if you don’t know what they mean you can’t hope to use them write
anything that communicates any real meaning. The planes and the construction
information gives you more ammunition about what you should be seeing so that in
cooperation with the 2 dimensional shapes you can know what makes the object
appear the way it does and equip you to draw it.
Let’s take a look at a few examples of how the planes and rhythms of the head were
used to make solid and convincing concept art for two Electronic Art games:
Godfather and Lord of the Rings. When you look closely you will be able to see the
structure that these character’s faces were built upon.
Fig. 7
Fred Fixler, the well known artist and teacher said, "It's not that the nose is wrong, but it's
the whole head that's off. Get the overall shape of the head before you start worrying
about individual parts."
It is so important when doing an initial block in of the head (or anything else for that
matter) not to loose sight of the big effect, the overall silhouette and its proportions
and not get lost in details. It’s like blocking in a painting in which the method of
approach might be something like this:
The first problem is the block in (spacing and placing)—where to put everything.
Find the Shapes and approximate angles of the forms before sculpting the forms. First
the 2D things and big flat shapes and rhythms (think puzzle pieces where the dark
pieces meet the light pieces). See if you can find a few big rhythms and find something
you can build off of. Make sure the big stuff—big shapes, proportion, silhouette—are
working, and then break it up into smaller and smaller refining pieces.
The next step would be to organize your values and keep control over them.
Work with no more than 4 values: white, black and 2 gray values of equal steps in
between (see Fig. 8). Keep the values falling clearly into either the family of lights or
into the family of darks. Initially give yourself a key for the dark values. Getting your
values under control is the main thing; do this by keeping them “posterized” (flat) and
within the value range of the value key you started with. Once you achieve this you
can decide whether you like the way you have designed and crafted a certain area or
feature. If you’ve got your values all out of whack then you can’t really see what you
are drawing, thereby limiting your ability to assess any problems and/or make good
design choices. Don’t look for too many details inside the shadow—just hint at them.
Continue on in the process by assessing the edges and introduce more structure
where you find the opportunity. Ask yourself: how can I make this more clear? Is this
particular edge more hard or soft, more round or more angular? When does it stop
being a top plane and start being a “bottom” or side plane?
Stand back every now and then. Think about how someone would look at 10 or 20 feet
away. You would just see the big, overall effect and not any of the details and still be
able to recognize them. Squint to take out detail and see the big rhythms first. Then
squint less to see the next level of detail. Use all these things to help you check your
drawing. Your not just looking for detail but anything thing that helps clarify the shape
and makes the sculpture or form more convincing. Make structure the “big thing”.
Make sure your structure is solid and then look to see where your puzzle pieces need
refinement and if they are readable. Don’t think render; think: is my value under
control and is my architecture valid? Finally, Put your accent values (dark blacks) in the
area where you want the viewers attention to go. Don’t use up you black value accents
before you need them. If you get lost in an area make sure your “posterized” shapes
works. That is to say flatten out the shape and value first to simplify it. Then you can
see if it needs more design inside the form and/or along the edges. If the dark shape is
confusing see if you can make sense out of the light shape next to it.
Have a look below at figure 8. below which demonstrates a simplified step by step
progression of a block in process.
Fig. 8
Here it is again as shown in my book on how to draw portraits “Essence” done in charcoal.
Module 5: Assignment
• Assignment 1.1: Draw the planes and rhythms of the head on tracing paper
over photographic reference from front, ¾ and side views.
• Assignment 1.2: Using the example in Fig.8 follow the steps to make a similar
drawing of your own.
I hope you enjoyed and learned some valuable insights and tools from this compact lesson on
drawing the head. I use these ideas everyday for both my professional and personal work.
These tools are extremely malleable and even work for stylized art and caricatures. (see my
tutorial on this process here: https://goo.gl/kQdrNc )
Once you get these foundational skills under your belt you will become more and more free to
create what you want and get your personal statement across. Now that’s exciting!
Thank you for time and I wish you the best of luck on your artistic journey!
Kind regards,
Chris Petrocchi
INSTAGRAM: https://www.instagram.com/drawjuice/
WEB: https://www.drawjuice.com
YOUTUBE DRAWING
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by Chris Petrocchi
To purchase my e-book “Essence: discovering the art of the portrait”
please go to https://www.drawjuice.com/
This 114 page book 7 years in the making features my digital and traditional
art compiled over many years. There is beautiful charcoal portraiture with step-
by-step instructions and detailed notes on the process as well as my thoughts
on creativity and how to begin creating character concept for games. Personal
anecdotes and impressions are included about the people I met while living in
China for 4 years as well as obstacles I encountered producing my art there.
That makes it a perfect blend of art, portrait art instruction and conversation
starter.