Concrete Screen Tile: by Slicelab

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instructables

Concrete Screen Tile

by slicelab

Pouring concrete using 3D print molds

Step 1: Digital

Soon to come.

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Step 2: Using 3D Prints As Molds

3D prints are great ways to create interesting we can use 3D printing to produce the mold itself.
geometry in molds. Regardless of the complexity, any Using a standard desktop printer, an ABS print was
part is no more costly to make than the next, produced with a flat base. A perimeter of wood, in this
generally speaking. It is however not the always the case MDF board, encloses the print with a 1" skirt
best method for producing multiple copies of parts was left around all sides. Using wood screws, the
and material options are somewhat limited to what piece is assembled with all 90 degree connections.
can be printed. Instead of printing an object directly, Ideally a funnel can be printed at the exact thickness

of the gap so to have it built into the mold for a easier side of your mold the height that you will need to pour
final step. You want to ensure that the walls are tall to.
enough to account for all the silicone that you will
pour on top. In preparation for this, mark off on the

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Step 3: Silicon Options

Two mixers were used here the rubber molds, I'm part, concentrating on its lowest point. This helps
using Smooth-On's Mold Star 15 SLOW two-part ensure that the silicone seeks its own level as it rises
silicone product and TAP Silicone RTV with thinner. up and over the model, while displacing air to reduce
Both these give you just under an hours worth of work the presence of bubbles as much as possible. After
time. Using both these before, I wanted to make a you pour both halves, checking for leaks in the walls
side by side comparison. and carefully check that your 3D print isn't moving
around inside.
Pour a thin stream from several inches above your

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Step 4: Take Off the

Give a conservative amount more time than listed on Remove the printed parts from the silicone molds,
the product, nothing is worse then not even getting ideally without breaking it. If the geometry had
past the mold stage. Slowly remove one wall at a undercuts this may be difficult but remember that the
time inspecting for non cured areas, worse case you mold is more important as is will yield many more
can just screw that wall back on. The silicon can get parts than just the print.
pretty stuck to the walls some force is ok to apply.

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Step 5: Check and Compair

The Smooth-On was much more forgiving with delicate pieces as it is more flexible while the TAP Silicon may be
more durable with its more robust rigidity. Checking the edges to see if there are any hang pieces is always a good
practice. Comparing the two halves is always important as well, though if you were carefully with measuring, they
should not differ.

Step 6: Set Up for the Pour

With all my materials and layout space ready, it is have topped off the mold, give it a bit of a shake and
time to pour. The set up is crucial so to give yourself twist is as much as possible without it causing any
ample time for the mixing and later careful pouring of leaks.
the concrete into the very narrow hole that has been
left of the liquid. In this case the usual paste like Note: Concrete is a messy process and can be very
consistency normally desired for concrete needs to harmful what ever it is poured on and especially for
be a little more watered down. Using a 3 to 1 yourself. Ideally you have a waterproof surface or just
(concrete to water) ratio, begin mixing water into the being outside is good. Remember to use a respirator
concrete slowly while stirring making sure to not mask so that the very airborne dust does not get into
leave any edge of the vessel overlooked. your lungs. Also, do not rinse anything with concrete
dust in your sink as it will immediately solidify and
I used the same size wood bases to clamp to for even ruin your plumbing
pressure. Be careful not to over tighten as the silicon
will lose its shape and will be warped/leak. Once you

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Step 7: Demolding

Most pieces this size need at least 36-48 hours to undercuts, this first try did not work as well. It was a
fully set. Let the piece stay in the mold for a couple lesson to make sure to shake my assemble up more
hours even after prying it open allowing the rest of it to give it even more coverage inside. Not a problem,
to dry as silicon really does keep in all the moisture. now having the mold, another piece can be poured
again.
Unfortunately due to the complex shape with having

Step 8: Finally

Rinse and repeat until you start to get perfect pieces out.

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Nice idea. I like your design. Are you going to share the 3D design?

I think I figured most of it out but it would be a lot easier if there were some words describing the
process. I love the results.

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