Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 PDF

TE X TILES
MARKET SITUATION REPORT 2019

Textile Used textiles Used textiles in Used textiles collected End markets for Prices for Looking
Introduction
consumption arisings the residual waste for re-use and recycling used textiles used textiles ahead
IN T RODUC T ION
Welcome to the textiles market situation
report. WRAP market situation reports
provide in-depth information on the latest
economic trends and developments
affecting the capture, re-use, and recycling
of key recovered materials.
In this report, ‘textiles’ includes:

WRAP published its first textiles clothing, items such as shoes, bags
market situation report in 2016. and belts, as well as household-type
This report provides an update textiles such as bed and table linen,
and highlights recent developments and leisure textiles such as
in the market for UK used textiles sleeping bags.1
as well as key factors shaping the
outlook for the sector.
WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 1

Introduction
IN T RODUC T ION $4bn

The £ value of a tonne of UK used
textiles exported remains high
by historical standards but costs
are reportedly going up.
worth of used textiles a year are
KEY THEMES AND FIGURES exported globally. In 2017, the
UK remains the second largest
exporter but has lost market share
between 2008 and 2017 to the US,
Korea and China, according to
3% 921,000
UNComtrade.
UK households continue to tonnes of used textiles ended up in As well as the wider economic The continued growth in spending
buy more clothing: spending the household residual waste in 2017 context and trends in the on clothing (with its associated
on clothing has increased by of which... fashion sector, Brexit, Extended environmental impacts) and the
3% per annum on average Producer Responsibility and quantity of textiles still going to
in the five years to 2018, adjusted increased sector scrutiny are some residual waste give a sense of
for inflation. of the factors that may be shaping challenge, but also of the economic
the future for the textiles sector. and environmental opportunity for
the sector.
620,000 336,000
tonnes of used textiles were tonnes of used clothing ended up in
collected for re-use and recycling the household residual waste in 2017.
in 2018.

Introduction
CONTENTS
USED TEXTILES
TEXTILE USED TEXTILES
IN THE RESIDUAL
CONSUMPTION ARISINGS
WASTE
USED TEXTILES
COLLECTED FOR END MARKETS FOR PRICES FOR USED
RE-USE AND USED TEXTILES TEXTILES
RECYCLING
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LOOKING AHEAD buttons allows you to navigate through the different sections
of the guide.

Introduction
T E X T ILE This suggests that households

continue to spend more on clothing
£60.5bn
CONSUMPT ION
from one year to the next, but at a
slower pace. This notwithstanding,
in the first quarter of 2019, household The amount UK households spend
spending on clothing rose by 5%, on clothing a year
adjusted by inflation, compared
with the first quarter of 2018.
Globally, PWC’s Global Consumer
In the 2000s, spending on clothing
Insight Survey suggested that fashion
was boosted by sharply falling prices:
is the category most likely to be
clothing prices 4 fell by 58% between
bought online, with nearly a quarter
1988 and 2010 – in sharp contrast
of shoppers buying clothes or
to overall consumer prices which
footwear mostly, or only online.
went up by 64% over the same
period. This made clothing, relatively,
Although there has been a slowdown
much more affordable and
in the pace of growth and many
encouraged consumption.
changes to the marketplace,
household spending on clothing
Since then, clothing prices have
is still growing overall.
increased – they were up by 11%
between 2010 and 2018, but still not
as much as overall prices – which
were up by 18% over the same period,
and in the first six months of 2019,
Between 2017 and 2018, household clothing prices fell by 1% compared
spending on clothing, adjusted for with the first six months of 2018. Although there has been
SPENDING ON inflation, grew by 2%. The five-year a slowdown in the pace of
CLOTHING average growth rate of household The clothing landscape has changed growth and many changes to
spending on clothing, adjusted for too, with fast fashion, the emergence the marketplace, household
In 2018, UK households spent inflation, has slowed from 14% in of digital retail opportunities and
spending on clothing is still
£60.5bn2 a year on clothing, 2003, to 9% in 2008, to 4% in 2012, the closure of physical retail outlets
growing overall.
accounting for 5% of their down to 3% in 2018.3 among the key trends.
overall spending.

Introduction
Fig 1
Most of the clothing consumed
Figure 1. UK household spending on clothing in the UK is imported, and the
% y-o-y £m
CLOTHING estimates here are based on
18% 70,000
CONSUMPTION ‘apparent consumption’ – which is
measured by looking at production
16%
60,000 WRAP estimates that the UK of clothing plus imports of clothing
14%
50,000 consumed 1.04m tonnes of minus exports of clothing5.
12%
10% 40,000 clothing in 2017. The methodology and inherent
8% 30,000 assumptions associated with
This compares with 1.09m tonnes
6% estimates based on apparent
20,000 in 2014 and 1.03m tonnes in 2010.
4% consumption mean that the data is
10,000 arguably better suited for providing
2% Preliminary data suggests
orders of magnitude, than for
0% consumption at 1.07m tonnes
tracking trends; and the implied
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2005
2011
2012
2013
2014
2017
2018
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2015
2016
in 2018 (subject to revision).
changes over time may not fully
reflect market conditions. Caution
Source: ONS Consumer Trends, released 28 June 2019. Annual data.
is urged in the interpretation of
the data over time.
% y-o-y, chained volume measure £m adjusted for inflation
(chained volume measure)
Key
Annual level of spending on clothing: rising
Annual growth of spending on clothing: slowing down

Introduction
Due to methodological limitations

and data gaps, the estimates for
NON-CLOTHING non-clothing consumption are
The environmental impact
CONSUMPTION indicative and caution is urged
WRAP’s 2017 report ‘Valuing our The greatest volume of water is used
AND TOTAL in using the data.
Clothes: the cost of UK fashion’ during the growing and production
CONSUMPTION Overall, this means the UK consumed calculated that the total footprint of fibres, although water is also
around 1.7m tonnes of textiles of clothing in use in the UK, used during colouration, fabric
Consumption of household- in 2017. including global and territorial finishing and domestic washing.
type textiles such as bed and emissions, was 26.2 million The report also highlighted process
tonnes CO2e in 2016. waste from clothing production.
table linen is estimated at
295,000 tonnes in 2017; shoes The report found that the highest Not all waste occurs at the end of
and bags at 298,000 tonnes; contributor to the carbon footprint the life of a garment: it also occurs
of clothing was the production in the processing and production
and leisure textiles such as
of fibre through polymer extrusion phases. In 2016, this process or
sleeping bags at 32,000 tonnes.6 or agriculture. The report also ‘supply chain’ waste was estimated
highlighted that re-use and recycling at over 800,000 tonnes.
offer some carbon savings because
the lifetime of clothing that is WRAP continues to work with
re-used or recycled is extended. funders and partners to reduce the
environmental impact of clothing.
Where this displaces a sale of a WRAP’s Valuing our Clothes report
new garment, the effects on the highlighted key opportunities for
environment from fibre extraction industry action: increasing
and processing are avoided. the adoption of sustainable fibre
to reduce the water footprint,
The total water footprint of clothing using lower impact processes in the
in active use in the UK in 2016, production of garments, focusing
including the water consumed on garments that will deliver
overseas to make our clothes, the largest reduction in carbon,
was 8 billion m3 of water. water and waste footprints; and
informing and enabling customers
to improve care, repair and re-use.

Introduction
USED T E X T ILES
or through in-store collections
(sometimes in exchange for a
SCAP
discount voucher or through cash for
A RISINGS clothes operations). These find their

way either to re-use and recycling
end markets in the UK and overseas,
The Sustainable Clothing
Action Plan (SCAP) 2020
Commitment, launched in
or to the residual waste which is
2012, is a voluntary agreement
ultimately destined for landfill
by businesses, re-use and
or incineration.
recycling organisations and
There are also several peer-to-peer other stakeholders, which aims
routes, such as donations to friends to reduce the environmental
and family, and peer-to-peer footprint of the UK clothing
exchange buying and selling sites sector by the end of 2020.
such as eBay, Depop, Gumtree,
The target for water has been
Sphock, and Re:gain.
met, with signatories achieving an
Finally, there is a stock of textiles 18.1% reduction in the water
that is neither used nor passed on footprint per tonne of garments,
but is instead stored in the ‘nation’s against a target of a 15%.
wardrobe’, largely unused.
Further action is needed to
meet the carbon target (13.4%
Clothing in active use reflects more reduction against a target of
than just that year’s worth of There is a stock of textiles 15%), and WRAP is confident this
Clothing bought in a given purchases, and consumption levels that is neither used nor will be met by 2020.
year will last for 3.37 years on can vary from discarded levels. passed on but is instead
average before it is discarded The waste footprint target
stored in the ‘nation’s
Used textiles are discarded through continues to be challenging
or passed on, with tops wardrobe’, largely unused. (1.4% reduction in waste per
a variety of routes: directly in the
averaging 2.74 years and household bin, direct charity shop tonne by against a target of a
coats averaging 4.58 years. donations, textile banks, door-to- 3.5% reduction).
door collections, corporate, school
and community schemes, kerbside
collections, at local household waste
and recycling centres (HWRCs),

Introduction
USED T E X T ILES
influenced by clothing bought around A total of 921,000 tonnes of textile
three years prior. Notwithstanding products, including shoes, bags,
the caveats that apply around the belts (194,000 tonnes) and non-
IN T HE consumption estimates over time,

on this basis, the increase in used
clothing textiles10 (391,000 tonnes),
were in the household residual waste
RESIDUA L WA S T E
clothing found in the household in 2017, destined for landfill and
residual waste in 2017 may reflect incineration.
the delayed impact of higher clothing
consumption levels in 2014.
Figure 2. UK textiles in the household residual waste8
Other non-clothing Clothing Shoes, bags

textiles and belts
47%
73%
53% 72%
27%
This represents a 10% increase 28%
since 2014/201510, or around
There were 336,000 tonnes 35,000 tonnes, reversing part of the
of clothing in the household 50,000 tonnes decrease observed 182k tonnes 245k tonnes 141k tonnes
residual waste in 20179, between 2012 and 2014/15. 208k tonnes 91k tonnes 53k tonnes
destined for landfill or Total: 391k tonnes Total: 336k tonnes Total: 194k tonnes
There are several ways of interpreting
incineration. this. Given the average clothing
longevity (3.3 years), the clothing Key
discarded in any given year is arguably
Kerbside Household waste and recycling centres (HWRC)

Introduction
This suggests there are further

opportunities for diversion from It is estimated that there
the residual waste streams, both were around 267,000
for clothing and non-clothing at tonnes of used textiles in
both kerbside and HWRCs. the commercial municipal
Most of the used textiles in the
residual waste in England
household residual waste are found in 2017.
in the kerbside residual waste: 62%
of the overall total and 73% of the
clothing-only total.
There are opportunities at recycling

centres too, with 91,000 tonnes of
used clothing alone (not including
shoes, bags and belts), found in
residual waste at recycling centres.
There is a smaller amount of used

textiles found in the commercial
residual waste stream. It is estimated
that there were around 267,000 tonnes
of used textiles in the commercial
municipal residual waste11 in England
in 2017: around 170,000 tonnes of
used clothing, shoes, bags and belts,
and around 97,000 tonnes of non-
clothing textiles. It is important to
note that, due to the shortcomings
of the available data, there are a
number of significant limitations to
the analysis and that these estimates
should be treated as indicative and
interpreted with caution.

Introduction
USED T E X T ILES
COLLEC T ED F OR
RE- USE A ND
REC YCLING
IN TOTAL
An estimated 600,000 tonnes
55%
The percentage of textiles in residual
of textiles were collected waste in 2017.
for re-use and recycling
in the UK in 2017, rising to This means that, as a proportion of
620,000 tonnes in 201812. textiles consumed or ‘placed on the
market’ in that same year, around
These are not on a like-for-like basis 36% was collected for re-use and
with the previous estimate for 2014, recycling in 2017 and 55% was in
so it is not possible to conclude the residual waste.
whether the amounts collected for
re-use and recycling have increased
or decreased since then. The
estimates are compiled from a
variety of sources using several
assumptions and the estimated level
of uncertainty is +/- 30,000 tonnes
around the central estimate of
620,000 tonnes for 2018.

Introduction
Textile bank operators report a Bag theft, by a third party before

Donations direct to charity high degree of competition for textile the operator has managed to collect
BY SOURCE shops and textile banks bank sites. Challenges include the the filled bag, has declined, and
remain the main supply withdrawal of site permission, e.g. some operators have invested in
Donations direct to charity streams, accounting for 85% for fly-tipping reasons, and the new technologies such as electronic
shops (48% of the tonnage of the total collected for difficulty in obtaining permission tracking to deter future theft.
collected) and textile banks from supermarket car parks, which
re-use and recycling. for some, are owned by a third party. Policing the supply chain is difficult
(37%) remain the main supply though and several operators are
streams, accounting for 85% ‘Door-to-door collections’ is the thought to be running collections
of the total collected for re-use process whereby households receive without the appropriate licences.
and recycling in 2018, with a a bag to fill with used textiles and
place outside for collection.
further 9% from door-to-door
collections13.
Figure 3. UK used textiles collected for re-use and recycling, by supply

chain stream12
Charity shops 48%

Textile banks
(commercial and charity) 37%
Door-to-door
(commercial and charity) 9%
Cash 4 clothes 2%
School/Community
schemes 1%
In-store 1%
LA kerbside 1%
Others 1%

Introduction
END M A RK E T S
F OR USED
T E X T ILES
Figure 4. The fate of UK used textiles collected for re-use and recycling12
Exported 60%
Most of the used textiles exported is
Re-use-sold through
thought to be for the re-use market
Most of the UK used textiles charity shops 31%
in the destination country, rather
that are collected for re-use than being recycled. WRAP is Waste 5%
and recycling are destined currently carrying out research to Recycling 3%
for the re-use market: 32% is find out what happens overseas to
textiles that may not be re-used. The Re-use-sold through
re-used in the UK, sold mostly remainder of textiles collected in the second-hand commercial
in charity shops, and around UK is recycled (3%) and around 5% outlets 2%
60% is exported. is not suitable for re-use or recycling,
and is disposed of as waste.

Introduction
The sector is also becoming more

high-tech and cleaner, hence a
RECYCLING END reduced need for wipers. There has
MARKETS also been a trend away from recycled
textiles wipers towards alternative
There are two main recycling wiping products.
applications for UK used
The second main application
textiles: wiping cloths (used is non-woven products. Fibres
to wipe spills and surface recovered from used textiles through
contaminants in manufacturing shredding are made into non-woven
industries – commonly products using specific processes
such as needle punching.
referred to as ‘wipers’),
and non-woven products. These are then mainly used in
the car manufacturing sector
Wipers are often made from (as acoustic underlay) and as
household textiles such as bedsheets mattress-spring coverings.
which offer the benefit of large, flat Both are already mature markets.
surfaces, and from cotton or cotton
mix (for its absorbent properties).
This is a declining market however
as it is thought unlikely that there
will be much volume growth in the
manufacturing sector that buys
these wipers.

Introduction
FIBRE-TO-FIBRE (F2F)14
Textile production is dominated There are projects underway Mechanical F2F recycling has
by cotton and polyester, but exploring the financial sustainability historically been focused on
alternatives, including recycled of fibre-to-fibre (F2F) recycling, recovering higher-value fibres such
fibres, hold the potential to help including from F2F recycling process as wool and cashmere. The current
the industry meet future demand developers and from the European emphasis is on improving processes
for clothing. This would also Clothing Action Plan (ECAP). for cotton and cotton blends – with
minimise the environmental a focus on finding ways to minimise
impacts along the supply chain, Chemical F2F recycling is thought the erosion of the length fibres
drawing on used textiles currently to be several years away from through the recycling process
destined for landfill or incineration full commercialisation, although (shorter fibres do not perform
as a source of feedstock to make commercial initiatives using pre- as well as the longer, virgin fibres
new fibres and yarns. consumer feedstock15 have already in the yarn-making process).
been deployed. The time lags to
For example, chemical fibre-to-fibre market readiness reflects the
recycling of used polycotton textiles timescales involved in getting
dissolves the fibres to recover the demonstrable outputs from pilots
synthetic fraction and make pellets. and trials and in raising funds.
These can re-enter the synthetic Scaling up to meet the levels of
yarn manufacturing process and the demand of high-capacity yarn
cellulose fraction to make dissolving mills would be the next stage
pulp, which is then used in the of development – potentially
production of viscose-like materials. another two to three years.
Mechanical fibre-to-fibre recycling

involves chopping and pulling used
garments to break them down into
shredded fragments, until the fibres
themselves can be recovered.

Introduction
Ways to overcome barriers to F2F

recycling include:
• Improvements in post-consumer
textiles collection and sorting
processes;
• Introduction of automation to
increase accuracy and decrease
costs in the sorting process.
Although still in development,
automation may also lower
garment preparation costs
(removal of zippers, etc.);
• Development and communication
of feedstock specifications
through collaboration between
textile merchants and F2F
recycling process developers;
• Supply chain integration and work
to foster demand (pull) from
brands, retailers and consumers;
and
• support for, and by, F2F recycling
process developers and those
in the textile merchant supply
chain, in securing finance for
process scale-up and
commercialisation.

Introduction
Although the UK remains a large According to UNComtrade, the top 5

player, over the last ten years, its importers of used textiles by value
DOMESTIC RE-USE GLOBAL MARKET market share has eroded, from in 2017 were, in order: Pakistan,
MARKET FOR USED TEXTILES 15.5% of world market value in 2008, Malaysia, Ukraine, Russia and Kenya.
down to 12.5% in 2017.
The Charity Retail Association World trade in used textiles Prospects of import bans affecting
Of the top 5 exporters in 2017, the world exports of used textiles have
(CRA) estimates that there are rose back up to $4.05bn in
market share of Germany has also receded. In 2016, The East African
around 11,20016 charity shops 201718. fallen over the same period, while Community initially agreed a ban
in the UK, the majority of which the US, Korea and, most noticeably, on used clothes imports by 2019,
The global used textiles market fell
sell clothes and other textiles. two years running in 2015 and 2016
China, have gained market share: but most countries decided not to
the latter rising from 0.1% to 7.3% go ahead with the ban, and Rwanda
and has not got back to its previous
Charity shops have noticeably between 2008 and 2017 to reach is the only country to proceed with
peak (in 2014) but the broad trend
enhanced their in-store sorting $298m in 2017. The top destinations import restrictions.
has been up: the volume of used
and their rotation of donated stock for Chinese exports of used textiles
textiles exported has gone up by 41%
across shops in the last few years. are Angola (15%), Kenya (12%), Ghana
between 2007 and 2017 (from 2.9m
In 2018, 55%17 of the tonnage of (7%) and Tanzania (7%).
tonnes to 4.2m tonnes), and the
used textiles handled by charity
value has gone up by 70%. Fig 5
shops was sold in-store, equivalent
to 192,000 tonnes, up by 8% from Figure 5. World exports of used textiles
The UK plays a key part in the global
2016, with reduced amounts being
market for used textiles, ranking $bn
sold to textile operators or ending
second with 12.5% of the market
up as waste. 5.0
value after the US (15.5%) based on
4.5
UNComtrade17. The top 5 exporters
4.0
include Germany, the Republic
3.5
of Korea and China and together
3.0
account for more than half of the
2.5
55% of used textiles handled world trade in used textiles.
2.0
by charity shops was sold 1.5
in-store, equivalent to 1.0
192,000 tonnes. 0.5
0.0
2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Source: UNComtrade

Introduction
Fig 6
tonne across destinations – and the
changes in the value per tonne in Figure 6. UK exports of used textiles
UK EXPORTS OF each destination over time. After two £m
USED TEXTILES years of consecutive decline in 2014 450
and 2015, UK exports of used textiles 400
In the last twenty years, the have since risen back up to reach 350
broad trend for UK exports £381m in 2018 – just 3% below the
300
previous high of £391m in 2013.
of used textiles20 has been Exports (in £) in the first five months
250
upwards: from 80,000 tonnes of 2019 were up 8%, compared with 200
in 1998 to 373,000 tonnes in the same period in 2018. 150
2018, an increase of 365%. 100

There has been a shift in the last ten 50
After a phase of fast expansion, 16% years with exports in tonnes rising 0
per annum between 1998 and 2008, overall to most broad destinations,
1996
1997
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
growth has settled at 1% per annum whereas exports to the EU, notably
on average between 2008 and 2018. to Poland, and to other non-EU Source: HMRC
European countries have fallen Fig 7
After a peak at 352,000 tonnes in substantially. Figure 7. UK exports of used textiles by destination, 2008 and 2018
2014, exports of used textiles fell £m
two years running in 2015 and 2016 In value terms, this means that,
180
but have picked up since: up by 3% while exports to the EU have risen,
they have done so by much less 160
in 2017 and by 8% in 2018 to reach a
new high of 373,000 tonnes. Exports than exports to other regions. 140
(in tonnes) in the first five months of 120

2019 were up 8%, compared with the In turn this has meant a shift in 100
same period in 2018. market shares in value terms. Sub- 80
Saharan Africa and the EU remain
60
The export value reflects the trends the main destination regions.
40
in the total quantities exported, the However, compared with ten years
ago, there has been a movement 20
changes in distribution of exports
away from the EU, mostly towards 0
across destination countries – with Sub-Saharan EU Asia and Non-EU Middle East Others
substantial variations in value per Asia and the Middle East. Africa Oceania Eastern and N Africa
Key Europe
2008 2018
Source: HMRC

Introduction
The UK exports to (by value):

Figure 8. Value of UK exports of used textiles by destination, 2018
• Sub-Saharan Africa: 41% of the
total value of UK exports of used
textiles in 2018 – notably to Ghana,
which has a key entry port for the Sub-Saharan Africa
region – down from 43% in 2008 (Ghana: 19%) 41%
• the EU: 25%, down from 39% in EU (Poland: 10%) 25%

2008 – notably to Poland (down Asia and Oceania
from 22% to 10% between 2008 (Pakistan: 12%) 14%
and 2018)
Non-EU Eastern Europe
• Asia: 14%, up from 4% in 2008 – (Ukraine: 10%) 11%
notably to Pakistan
Middle East and N Africa
• non-EU Eastern Europe: 11%, (UAE: 4%) 7%
mostly Ukraine
Others 2%
• The Middle East/North Africa:
7%, up from 1% in 2008 – notably
Source: HMRC
to the United Arab Emirates which
acts as a hub for sorting and
onward distribution.

Introduction
PRICES F OR
One recurrent issue raised by the lower-value and higher-value
used textiles supply chain is that the destinations, impact the value per
quality of used textiles donated has tonne exported from the UK overall.
USED T E X T ILES fallen over time, with operators citing

‘fast fashion’ as a key contributor
behind the deterioration.
In 2018, the value per tonne22
exported fell by 4% from the
previous year. Nevertheless, it
remains relatively high by historical
The value that can be achieved on standards. At £1,021/t in 2018, it was
the export markets is key to the used 8% below the highest value on record
textiles sector, and both the value (£1,115/t in 2013) but still 5% above
per tonne achieved in each export the 10-year average (£973/t).
destination, and the changes in the
relative amounts of exports across
Figure 9. Value of used textiles exported from the UK

£ per tonne
1,200
10-year average
1,000
Key influencing factors include the
23-year average
global market demand for used 800
According to WRAP’s Materials textiles, the availability of used
Pricing Report, prices for textiles, their quality, the exchange 600
textiles from charity shops21 rate (e.g. a weaker £ against the

400
stood at £330/t (per tonne) in Euro and the $ can help to make UK
exports more competitive), and the 200
May 2019, broadly in line with costs of sorting and processing.
the five-year average (£329/t). These factors all affect prices at 0
Textile bank prices fell to £210/t
1996
1997
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
various stages of the supply chain.
in May 2019, 17% below their
five-year average (£250/t). Source: HMRC, annual data

Introduction
Depending on the degree and cost of sorting due to the cost but some
sorting required, the suitability of the restarted or extended their UK Figure 10. UK used textiles prices and value per tonne exported
textiles for the higher value markets sorting in 2018. Costs, margins, and
£
(such as sub-Saharan Africa or prospects are likely to vary greatly
Europe) or lower value markets (such across operators with many different 1,200
as Pakistan), and on the proportion types of operations (e.g. cash 4
1,000
not suitable for re-use or recycling clothes, in-store collections, different
end markets, the profitability of a degrees of sorting, etc.) and many 800
given tonne of used textiles can vary very small, often short-lived
noticeably and operators adapt their operations. 600
business model accordingly. 400

There has been consolidation in the
The difference between the value sector with a number of independent 200
per tonne exported and the banks/ businesses now under a single
charity shops’ prices therefore parent company. This is thought to 0
Q4 | 2013
Q1 | 2014
Q2 | 2014
Q3 | 2014
Q4 | 2014
Q1 | 2015
Q2 | 2015
Q3 | 2015
Q4 | 2015
Q1 | 2016
Q2 | 2016
Q3 | 2016
Q4 | 2016
Q1 | 2017
Q2 | 2013
Q3 | 2013
Q2 | 2017
Q3 | 2017
Q4 | 2017
Q1 | 2018
Q2 | 2018
Q3 | 2018
Q4 | 2018
Q1 | 2019
Q2 | 2019
represents a range of factors. make it the largest operator in the
UK, operating across UK regions and
There is not enough data available across supply chain streams: charity
on the costs of sorting and shops, textile banks and HWRCs.
processing the textiles to build a Key
clear picture of the costs. Comments Export value Charity shops Banks
from the industry suggest that costs
have increased in the last 5 years,
with some operators reporting being Comments from the Source: WRAP Materials Pricing Report, HMRC. Quarterly averages.
NB: 2019 Q2 export value based on Apr-May 2019 data.
affected by the increase in the industry suggest that costs
minimum wage and rising business have increased in the last 5
rates, as well as by rising costs to years, with some operators
tailor sorting to meet customer
requirements.
reporting being affected
by the increase in the
An industry survey12 reports that minimum wage and rising
most operators are believed to sort business rates.
to some extent in the UK. Some
companies had moved away from

Introduction
LOOK ING A HE A D
There are a number of factors to

consider, for example, sourcing Uncertainty remains, for
As well as the broader BREXIT and end-markets; impacts on the instance over the potential
economic context in the UK, exchange rate; net migration changes in trade terms and
Businesses report Brexit-related
the global economy, and the uncertainty both in the new and
levels and how this might affect how this might affect exports
fashion sector, there are several the supply and cost of labour; and
used textiles markets. At the time and imports in future.
consumer prices and consumers’
developments on the horizon of writing (September 2019),
disposable income.
that are relevant for the used uncertainty remains, for instance
over the potential changes in trade
textiles sector in the UK. terms and how this might affect
exports and imports in future.

Introduction
“‘Extended Producer
THE PROSPECT OF Responsibility’ (EPR) is a powerful MICROFIBRES
EXTENDED environmental policy approach
The release of microfibres from is difficult. There are studies
through which a producer’s
PRODUCER responsibility for a product is textiles into the environment providing valuable insight, but the
RESPONSIBILITY extended to the post-use stage. has gained attention as a source methodological variations make
This incentivises producers to of concern for the textiles comparative analysis difficult,
Defra’s 2018 Resources and Waste design their products to make industry, with a body of evidence further impeded by the greater
Strategy identified textiles as one it easier for them to be re-used, reporting microfibres in airborne focus on synthetic fibres in existing
of five priority areas for which Defra dismantled and/or recycled at dust and as waterborne studies focusing on release from
plans to review and consult on end of life. Alongside microplastics. laundry relative to natural fibres
measures such as Extended stakeholders, we consider EPR to (driven by the greater susceptibility
Producer Responsibility by 2025 be a crucial tool in moving waste The Environmental Audit of some synthetic garments to
(by 2022 for two of the priority areas, up the hierarchy, and stimulating Committee’s February 2019 contribute to marine pollution).
not yet specified). Defra refers to secondary markets. It has been report 23 highlighted the role played The actual impacts of the presence
the issues it might consider as part adopted in many countries by the choice of synthetic fibres of microfibres – for instance on
of this review and consultation around the world, across a broad and garment design. The report human health – have also not been
process. These include: the impact range of products, to deliver acknowledged the need for further fully assessed yet, although work
of fast fashion (for instance via higher collection, recycling research – whilst signalling that this has been done for instance on the
lesser clothing durability and shorter and recovery rates. The most is not a reason for delaying action impact on textile workers.
clothing lifespan) and how to support successful schemes use a range in the meantime.
re-use and closed-loop recycling to of measures to encourage more WRAP continues to investigate
reduce the environmental impacts sustainable design decisions at WRAP’s own exploratory this area and is working with
of textiles, including the impacts the production stage.” research24 has identified several funders and partners to determine
of microplastic fibres in the challenges in attempting to get a whether this area might form part
water system. Defra, 2018, Resources and sense of the scale of the issue at of future action plans for the UK
Waste Strategy each stage of the textile lifecycle, textiles sector.
by assessing the formation of
microfibres during the production,
processing, use phase and disposal
of textile products. Separating
microfibres from the rest of the
waste products or other impurities

Introduction
The quality of donated

textiles has decreased over
time, with fast fashion
singled-out as a key factor;
some end-markets are
becoming more demanding,
requiring for instance
tailored sorting to meet
customer specifications
INCREASED SEPAR ATE INDUSTRY

SCRUTINY COLLECTIONS CONCERNS
In February 2019, the House of Building on existing obligations The used textiles supply chain Some also report that some of
Commons Environmental Audit for paper, cardboard, glass, metals depends on the profitability of the the used textiles that would have
Committee reported findings from and plastics, EU members agreed a export re-use end markets. Industry previously been donated are
its inquiry into clothing consumption new requirement in 2018, to collect participants have highlighted a now being sold online (e.g. eBay).
and sustainability. The report 23 used textiles separately from other confluence of pressure points.
highlighted environmental and social household waste by 2025. However, The rise of China as an exporter of
concerns throughout the supply the specifics have not been formally The quality of donated textiles has used textiles is providing further
chain and called on government to set out yet, e.g. what counts as decreased over time, with fast competitive pressure. The lack of
urgently change the system, to end separate collections and what criteria fashion singled-out as a key factor; end markets for textiles not suited
throwaway society. The committee define whether used textiles count some end-markets are becoming to the domestic and export re-use
advocated a charge on producers of as a product or as waste, which more demanding, requiring for market leaves the sector open to
one penny per garment, generating currently varies across countries, instance tailored sorting to meet market volatility and reliant on
revenue that can be used to invest and how strictly this might be customer specifications; demand in export markets.
in clothing collection and sorting in implemented. some of the more profitable end-
the UK. markets has gone down; and costs
are going up – all of which has put
pressure on margins. Some reported
that the uncertainty around Brexit
has hindered business planning.

Introduction
In its 2018 Resources and Waste

Strategy, Defra has signalled a
CHALLENGE AND fresh intent to support re-use and
OPPORTUNITY closed-loop recycling to reduce the
environmental impacts of textiles.
Reducing the environmental impacts
of textiles involves a supply-chain- The continued growth in spending
wide effort, with progress already on clothing in the UK (and the
underway, but much still left to be environmental impacts that come
done. Managing impacts at the with it), and the 921,000 tonnes of
production stage is a key contributor. household used textiles still going
As is keeping textiles in some form to landfill or incineration give a sense
of use for longer. This can happen of the challenge, but also of the
through longer consumer use and economic and environmental
through more re-use and recycling. opportunity for the sector.
In turn this requires a range of
end-markets, especially for the
non-reusable used textiles.
In the face of growing demand

for raw materials from textile
manufacturers, fibre-to-fibre
recycling presents a potential
opportunity for a new set of
end-markets.

Introduction
6 Resource Futures, 2019, ‘UK 12 Oakdene Hollins, 2019, ‘A 16 Rounded to the nearest hundred.
textile consumption estimate’ quantification of used textile
ENDNOTES (unpublished research for WRAP). collections for re-use and recycling 17 Source: Charity Retail Association.
Data rounded. in the UK’ (unpublished research The 55% proportion is based on
1 Mattresses and carpets are the Sources of Stock 2017 report.
for WRAP).
not included. 7 WRAP, 2013, ‘Measuring the
active life of clothes’. 13 Other routes such as peer-to- 18 Source: UNComtrade.
2 This is an estimate in current
peer donations and sales through
prices, for 2018, from the ONS 8 WRAP, 2019, ‘National municipal 19 The Observatory of Economic
eBay are out of scope for this
data from the Consumer Trends commercial waste composition, Complexity provides data based
report and not counted in the
dataset released on 28.06.2019. England 2017’ (unpublished at on UNComtrade data and
amounts collected for re-use and
Consumer-panel-based estimates the time of writing). All figures ‘cleaned’ to harmonise the
recycling nor the end markets.
of the clothing market from rounded to the nearest thousand data on bilateral flows. The OEC
Kantar and ONS household- tonnes, so the sum of the 14 WRAP, 2019, ‘Fibre-to-fibre data ranks the UK as the third
survey based Family spending individual elements may appear recycling: an economic and largest exporter after the US
data on clothing suggest lower to not add up exactly. financial sustainability and Germany.
levels. assessment’.
9 WRAP, 2017, ‘Valuing our clothes: 20 Export data rounded to the
3 On a per capita basis, this the cost of UK fashion’. 15 In this context, ‘pre-consumer’ nearest 1,000 tonnes. Export
translates into: 13%, 8%, 4% refers to feedstock arising from value on a free on-board basis
and 2%. 10 Household-t ype textiles such as the textile supply chain prior to (FOB), i.e. including transport to
bed and table linen and leisure the clothing/textile reaching the the customs frontier but not
4 ONS, Consumer Price Index. textiles such as sleeping bags. including freight to the importing
consumer and ‘post-consumer’
refers to feedstock arising from country nor insurance costs.
5 The methodology uses a 11 WRAP, 2019, ‘National municipal clothing/textile discarded by the
combination of Her Majesty’s commercial waste composition, consumer.
Revenue and Customs data and England 2017’ (unpublished at the
Prodcom data sourced from time of writing).
Eurostat and the ONS and rests
on several implicit assumptions
for instance on stock changes.

Introduction
21 The term ‘Banks’ refers to the 23 House of Commons

value that textile bank operators Environmental Audit Committee,
will pay to the bank beneficiary 2019, Fixing fashion: clothing
such as the named charity. consumption and sustainability.
The term ‘Charity shop’ refers to
the value that a charity receives 24 WRAP, 2019, Textile Derived
for clothing sold to merchants Microfibre Production:
that collect the garments from Investigating the Current
the shop. Evidence Base.
22 The export (dispatches) value is

on a free on board basis i.e. the
value reflects the cost of goods to
the purchaser abroad including
packaging, inland and coastal
transport in the UK, dock dues
etc. accruing up to the point
where the goods are deposited
on board the exporting vessel or
aircraft or at the land boundary
of Northern Ireland.

WRAP’s vision is a world in which resources are used sustainably.
Our mission is to accelerate the move to a sustainable resource efficient economy through reinventing how we
design, produce and sell products; re-thinking how we use and consume products; and re-defining what is
possible through re-use and recycling.
Find out more at www.wrap.org.uk
www.wrap.org.uk/marketreports
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TE X TILES

MARKET SITUATION REPORT 2019

In this report, ‘textiles’ includes:

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 1

IN T RODUC T ION $4bn

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 2

This is an interactive document. The top toolbar and contents

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 3

T E X T ILE This suggests that households

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 4

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 5

Due to methodological limitations

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 6

A RISINGS clothes operations). These find their

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 7

IN T HE consumption estimates over time,

Figure 2. UK textiles in the household residual waste8

Other non-clothing Clothing Shoes, bags

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 8

This suggests there are further

There are opportunities at recycling

There is a smaller amount of used

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 9

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 10

Textile bank operators report a Bag theft, by a third party before

Figure 3. UK used textiles collected for re-use and recycling, by supply

Charity shops 48%

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 11

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 12

The sector is also becoming more

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 13

Mechanical fibre-to-fibre recycling

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 14

Ways to overcome barriers to F2F

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 15

Although the UK remains a large According to UNComtrade, the top 5

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 16

in 1998 to 373,000 tonnes in the same period in 2018. 150

2018, an increase of 365%. 100

(in tonnes) in the first five months of 120

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 17

The UK exports to (by value):

• the EU: 25%, down from 39% in EU (Poland: 10%) 25%

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 18

USED T E X T ILES fallen over time, with operators citing

Figure 9. Value of used textiles exported from the UK

textiles from charity shops21 rate (e.g. a weaker £ against the

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 19

business model accordingly. 400

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 20

There are a number of factors to

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 21

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 22

The quality of donated

INCREASED SEPAR ATE INDUSTRY

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 23

In its 2018 Resources and Waste

In the face of growing demand

WRAP Textiles Market Situation Report 2019 24