Mini Cooper 6-Speed Automatic

Transmission Fluid Replacement How-To

Written and compiled by fishbone
Last revised 4/28/12

Background Information

Based on user feedback, I have decided to compile my own write-up notes along with user
contributions that I hope overall will be a comprehensive guide to help you change the automatic
transmission fluid.

The original discussion which started this guide can be found on the North American Motoring forums
here:
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/drivetrain-cooper-s/178242-mcsa-tranny-fluid-
change.html
Or by going to the 1st Generation MINIs section, under Modifications, Drivetrain (Cooper S) and
looking for the thread called MCSA Tranny Fluid Change.
Special thanks to everyone from the community who has contributed to the effort of sharing their
knowledge in the hope that we can keep on motoring!

I realize this is a LOT of text. Don't be discouraged! If you are competent enough to change your own
oil, with some extra care and patience this fluid change is a job that you should be able to tackle
without any problems.
Read on!

**There is absolutely no warranty, implied or otherwise, that comes with this guide. The final
responsibility always rests with you, the vehicle owner**

You will be doing this drain and fill procedure a total of at least 3 times if you want to replace
most (about 70%) of the fluid. If you want to put more fresh fluid, do additional drain/fills.
There is a total of 6 quarts and you will only be able to drain out about 2.5 quarts at a time.
Best thing to do is drive the car for a bit between drain/fills to get a good mix going.

Should you change your transmission fluid?

Let's start with MINI's “lifetime fluid”. There is NO such thing as lifetime fluid! Sooner or later any
fluid breaks down. Mini does not define what lifetime means and no dealer will be crazy enough to put
it in writing. Therefore, lifetime means the usable life of the transmission, which means until the
warranty is up. So unless you want to treat your transmission as a disposable expensive part, at one
point or another you should be replacing the fluid.
The factory is a JWS-3309 type which is nothing fancy; it is a non-synthetic fluid. Any aftermarket
multi-vehicle universal synthetic transmission fluid will work just fine as long as it meets the JWS-
3309 spec. The fluid appears to be the same as the Toyota T-IV, so if you see that spec as well you
should also be OK. For more evidence on this, read the bottom section of this guide. Since the fluid
change is so involved and anything BUT straight-forward, it pays in the long run to spend the money
on top of the line synthetics that can last a while, such as Amsoil. Most will last 50K miles under
severe driving or 100K normal driving. It makes no sense to replace non-synthetic with non-synthetic
which will need replacing within 40K miles.
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The transmission cannot be flushed like a traditional automatic because it has no front external
cooler; it uses a heat exchanger. This is one of the main reasons most shops will refuse to service it.
There is no dipstick to measure the ATF or fill through it either. There is NO transmission filter to be
replaced, there is just an internal strainer which is not accessible unless you drop the pan, which you
should have no reason to do so.

If you want to get an idea what the ATF looked like at 70K miles versus new, here is a picture for
reference. Speaks for itself

Here is a picture of the pan to get a better idea. The picture is oriented as if you were looking at the
car from the front.

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Here is a picture of the drain bolt with the crush washer. After doing the last drain/fill, replace the
crush washer for peace of mind and assurance you will not develop an ATF leak. Your dealer should
stock it, if not the size in millimeters is 17X12X2.

Here is a picture of the Allen key and stand pipe. It is plastic. Be gentle. Do not cross-thread or
overtorque. Handle with care, etc! Just get it approximately hand-tight when putting it back on, it's
not like it's going anywhere.

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Will this fix my transmission?
Keep in mind this is intended to be primarily a maintenance/preventive procedure. If your
transmission has suffered damage due to neglect (yes, not changing the fluid is neglect, despite what
Mini claims), then no amount of fluid changes will fix it. If your transmission is shifting strangely
(slamming gears, slipping), there is a very good possibility all it needs is some fresh fluid to get back
to normal operating condition. The transmission needs a few drive cycles to re-adapt the shifting
pattern and behavior to the new fluid. Give it time. One user reported it took several drain/fills and
driving over a period of several thousand miles to get a transmission that had many miles on the
original fluid to perform in a normal manner again. It generally should not take this long.
In my own experience, after the initial few drain and fills, the transmission seemed to shift excessively
smooth, to the point that it felt like it was slipping/riding the gears. After a few drive cycles it adapted
and settled into a shifting pattern that was even better than brand new.
If you want to skip this re-learning process altogether, your dealer may be able to reset the
Transmission Control Module. Any claims that you can do this by yourself by disconnecting the
battery are completely wrong. The ONLY way to reset the TCU is by using the Mini dealership OBD
tool.

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 2002-2006 Mini 6-Speed Automatic Transmission Fluid Change Procedure
For all 2007 Minis and newer, skip to page 9

Tools needed:
-Socket extensions
-Allen 5 key
-T-55 torx
-Philips head
-Flathead screwdriver
-Funnel
-Shallow drain pan (preferably with measures on the sides for fluid)
-Rags
Here is a picture of the funnel that works perfect. Found at Walmart, it was ideal because it was very
tight against the fill plug and has the right height. If there is ANY room around the fill bolt, you will get
ATF to seep out instead of go in the tranny and you will make a mess. The funnel is called Spill Saver
by FloTool.

Step 1: Raise your car on stands or a ramp as if you were to drain the oil. The best thing to do is jack
up the passenger side as far higher than the right as you can. The goal is to get as much of the ATF
to be sitting near the drain bolt, which is at the back upper right corner of the pan.

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Step 2: Unclamp the intake duct to give yourself room to get to the fill bolt.

Step 3: Put the torx and extensions together and make your way to the fill plug and take it out. A
magnet helps a lot holding it from dropping into the engine bay.

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Here is a picture of the drain bolt taken out. Hopefully this will help you locate it in the engine bay

Step 4: Get under the car and remove the plastic undertray. You should now be in clear view of the
drain plug, circled red in the picture. Get the pan under it, stick the Allen 5 key on it and unscrew it
and let the ATF drain

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Step 5: Once done draining, stick the long end of the Allen key into the hole gently until it catches the
stand pipe, unscrew it and take it out. You guessed it. The standpipe screws into the pan, then the
drain bolt screws in to shut off the stand pipe. Make sense? Careful, a bunch more ATF will gush out.
Important! Measure exactly how much ATF you got out. In my case, I got a total of 2.5 quarts out.
What comes out must go in, in order to maintain proper ATF level from factory. If you suspect you
have had a leak or want to make 100% sure you have the proper ATF level (which you should check),
then keep reading, this will be addressed lastly. Put the stand pipe back in and screw the drain plug.

Step 6: Time to fill her up! Don’t put the drain plug back in. This will make pouring fluid a lot faster
since air has a place to escape through.Take the funnel and insert it tight it in the fill bolt. Make sure
that you are not a total brute about it. If you happen to chew up the lip of the funnel, guess where
those plastic bits are going to end up! Also, make sure you don’t insert it in too much, reason being
the actual fill hole is only half open in order to accommodate a special dealer fill tool in order to, you
guessed it, make it tough for anyone else to do this.Just enough so you don’t spill over.

Pour transmission fluid slowly into the funnel as to not spill over. It drains into the transmission very
slow, which is perfectly normal.

Put the same quantity in that you have taken out and you should be at the same transmission level.
However, I strongly encourage that once you are done with all your drain/fills, you check the fluid
level as per the procedure outlined below.

And that's about it! The total capacity is 6 quarts. I did 2 drain and fills and on the second drain the
ATF was still fairly dark. The second drain is what made the biggest difference in shifting for me. I can
barely feel the gear engagements now. It is smooth sailing.

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2007 And newer Mini 6-Speed Automatic Transmission Fluid Change Procedure
By clutchless

Tools and Steps:

Step 1: Raise your car on stands or a ramp as if you were to drain the oil. The best thing to do is jack
up the passenger side as far higher than the right as you can. The goal is to get as much of the ATF
to be sitting near the drain bolt, which is at the back upper right corner of the pan.

Step 2:These are photos of the tools needed to access the fill bolt: a T55 socket and 3/8 hex cap that
allows you to place a box wrench usually 14 or 15 mm on it to open the fill plug. It also helps to have
a magnet or finger style grab tool for when you drop the socket trying to place it on the plug and it
rolls out of finger reach on the trans. None of these will fit: a ratchet, a T55 curved Allen style wrench,
T55 that takes a 1/2 hex cap. There is not enough room.

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Page 10 of 21
To fill the transmission, you will need a long flexible funnel which is able to bend around the hoses as
it is not a straight shot to reach the fill plug. They sell similar type funnels with clear tubing and a
funnel on top at Wal-Mart.

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Step 3: To access the fill plug you need to remove the air intake hose, remove the 2 hose clamps and
twist it over out of the way. I found it helped to remove the coolant overflow reservoir to allow more
room to turn the box wrench when removing the fill plug. It is held with an 8mm bolt and I just moved
it out of the way with a bungee cord wrapped around the headlight hole in the hood.

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This is the fill plug, buried under several hoses and wire harnesses.

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Page 14 of 21
The fill plug with the hex cap and box wrench on top. There is more room on the opposite side from
where the wrench is in the photo.

Step 4: Get under the car to remove the drain plug, circled red in the picture. Get the pan under it,
stick the Allen 5 key on it and unscrew it and let the ATF drain

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Step 5: Once done draining, stick the long end of the Allen key into the hole gently until it catches the
stand pipe, unscrew it and take it out. You guessed it. The standpipe screws into the pan, then the
drain bolt screws in to shut off the stand pipe. Make sense? Careful, a bunch more ATF will gush out.
Important! Measure exactly how much ATF you got out. In my case, I got a total of 2.5 quarts out.
What comes out must go in, in order to maintain proper ATF level from factory. If you suspect you
have had a leak or want to make 100% sure you have the proper ATF level (which you should check),
then keep reading, this will be addressed lastly. Put the stand pipe back in and screw the drain plug.

Step 6: Time to fill her up! Don’t put the drain plug back in. This will make pouring fluid a lot faster
since air has a place to escape through. Take the funnel and insert it tight it in the fill bolt. Make sure
that you are not a total brute about it. If you happen to chew up the lip of the funnel, guess where
those plastic bits are going to end up! Also, make sure you don’t insert it in too much, reason being
the actual fill hole is only half open in order to accommodate a special dealer fill tool in order to, you
guessed it, make it tough for anyone else to do this. Just enough so you don’t spill over.

Pour transmission fluid slowly into the funnel as to not spill over. It drains into the transmission very
slow, which is perfectly normal.

Put the same quantity in that you have taken out and you should be at the same transmission level.
However, I strongly encourage that once you are done with all your drain/fills, you check the fluid
level as per the procedure outlined below.

And that's about it! The total capacity is 6 quarts. I did 2 drain and fills and on the second drain the
ATF was still fairly dark. The second drain is what made the biggest difference in shifting for me. I can
barely feel the gear engagements now. It is smooth sailing.

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How to measure the proper ATF level

This procedure is a LOT easier if you have OBD access to the temp sensor inside the tranny and can
take a reading. If not, the directions below SHOULD work just fine. I know this is a wall of text but
really, there is no other way to say it without covering it. It's not that hard when you figure out how the
pan and the stand pipe works.

1. The car needs to be absolutely cold

2. The car needs to be perfectly level on the ground. The entire fluid level check procedure depends
on this. Do NOT overlook this.
3. NEVER have the fill bolt off with the car running! If you start the car with the fill bolt off, it will start
puking ATF. I have learned this by staining my garage floor with 3 quarts of ATF which spilled out in a
matter of seconds.
4. Take the drain bolt off ONLY. Do NOT take the stand pipe out.
If tranny fluid drains, let it drain until it stops and proceed to next step
5. Grab a kitchen thermometer or any other means to measure temperature
Digital is best because it offers instant reads
6. Start the car. With your foot on brake, go R, N, D pausing at least 2 seconds in each and then from
D back to N, R and P.
7. Go back under the car and watch for when ATF starts to run out. Be ready with the thermometer
8. As soon as you see ATF coming out, take a temperature reading of the ATF (NOT the pan) by
letting the ATF run over the thermometer. ATF needs to be between 35*C and 45*C, which is 95-
113*F.
9. If you see ATF coming out that's at that range, you're good to go. Put the drain bolt back on asap.

Here is the idea. Mini says that at that temperature range the ATF should be at the height of the stand
pipe that is inside the drain hole. If it is over, it is overfilled and it will spew out and you'll know it. If it is
underfilled, the ATF will never reach the height of the stand pipe and you will never see it drain out.
ATF level changes based on temperature

Now that you know this:

-if you see ATF come out right away, it is overfilled
-if you see NO ATF come out after the car has idled for a while, you can touch the transmission pan
with the thermometer and see what temp it's at to get an idea if you've waited enough or not. Based
on the temperature outside, basically after about 5 to 10 minutes of idling, that ATF by all means
should be at the temp quoted above. If it doesn't come out, you are low on fluid. Shut the car off and
you have 2 choices.
a) You can warm up the bottles of ATF fluid at 45*C/113*F under hot water in the sink and start filling
the transmission until you see it start coming out the drain bolt
OR
b) Wait until the car is cold and then top off with cold ATF like above. Keep in mind this will likely get
you to overfill it but it should not be by a severe amount AND you can always follow the previous
steps to get it to drain.

The transmission is better off being slightly overfilled than underfilled. Keyword is slightly.
The question is ... what do you do if you DO see ATF start coming out. Do you let it keep draining until
it stops? I submit that I would not do that, and I did not do that because of fear of too much coming
out. If it comes out gushing, you are WAY overfilled. If it comes out in a thin drain, you're good, don't
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worry about it. As long as the temp is above 35*C/95*F but NOT over 45*C/113*F. you're OK to just
put the bolt on and stop.

Helpful information and tips

This is a collection of posts by users that I believe are helpful, including supporting evidence
indicating the type of OEM transmission fluid that Mini uses and what it can be replaced with. They
are copied/pasted posts from the discussion on the forum. I recommend you read them.

MiniKar:
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For our Aisin Warner auto-transmission GA6F21WA here are some OEM parts numbers:

Pan drain bolt: Screw plug # 24117570791

Pan drain washer: Gasket ring # 24117570792
Overflow pipe: # 24117551083
Oil pan: # 24117551079
Oil pan gasket # 24117566356
Oil strainer # 24347551087

For those that want to start all over:

OEM rebuilt transmission model # GA6F21WA, part # 24007548536 $6,450.35

Change that Transmission Fluid ! ! !

I don't know of a JWS 3309 that is synthetic. After searching long and hard on the internet, people
have offered various points of arguments that led to this:
Mobil 1 3309 = Mini JWS 3309 = Volvo JWS 3309 = Toyota TIV ATF = any trannies built by AW
Furthermore, the 3309 stuff seems to be nothing special, just something very close to Dexron III with
a more robust make-up and specced limited slip behavior.
They are all dino, none are synthetic
The supplier of ATF in the US, I have gathered, is one and the same for the Aisin-Warner trannies and
each manufacturer buys and labels the ATF to their own needs. At the Toyota dealer the stuff is
around $6, the Mini dealer wants $30 a quart. Go figure.

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BlimeyCabrio:
1st drain: 100% old fluid
2nd drain: ~58% old fluid
3rd drain: ~34% old fluid

Now the car has less (more like 20% old fluid)

The reason 1-2 and 3 are slammy is because of the gear ratios and the type of load the engine sees.
If you accelerate grandma-mode, you won't feel the shifts. There cannot be a significant difference
between Sport mode and normal because that would involve significantly higher line pressure, which
isn't really possible to do without some serious mods.
Mobil 1 ATF is superior to both OEM and 3309. It is synthetic and multi-vehicle, meaning it will meet
the specs of Mini.
To keep it short, 3309 is more than likely oem, which is more than likely Toyota Type 4 ATF, Volvo
OEM etc. Same fluid but the price varies wildly depending on which dealership you want to rape you.
I've done exhaustive research on this topic because I did not want to gamble with my transmission
either.
Mobil 1 synthetic has worked great for numerous Minis including my own. As long as the bottle still
says it meets 3309 spec you are golden. It used to say this on the quarts when I bought it, I no longer
see it listed.
Either way, the oem stuff is junk.
They define lifetime as the life of your warranty.
Mobil 1 ATF at least is guaranteed to last at least 50K miles under the severe driving conditions which
I would think a Mini applies for sure. With the OEM stuff, your guess is as good as mine, I would not
use it more than 30K miles. Ever.

Folks on www.bobistheoilguy.com have had success using the following synthetic ATFs in Aisin-
Warner automatic transmissions that call for Toyota T-IV fuid: Redline D4 , Amsoil and Royal Purple.
All state they are compatible with Toyota T-IV and JWS 3309.

Here's some nice proof, courtesy of Mazda, that the fluids are the same. Per Mazda bulletin:
The 2005 Mazda6 with V6 engine and the 6-speed Automatic Transaxle (ATX) requires a special type
of Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF).
The Aisin Warner produced 6-speed requires ATF type JWS3309 produced by Mobil and Exxon.
This new fluid is NOT compatible with any current fluids offered by Mazda such as Dexron II/III,
Mercon or Mercon 5. Any mixing of JWS3309 fluid with Dexron II/III, Mercon or Mercon 5 will cause
internal ATX damage and/or shifting concerns, even if just topping off the ATF during PDI.
At this time, JWS3309 ATF is not available through Mazda, but can be purchased from the following
sources using their fluid part numbers listed below:

MFG. Part Number

Ford XT-8QAW
Volvo Volvo 1161540
Toyota T-IV
Mobil JWS 3309
GM GM 9986195

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wkp1219:
soi went to change my ATF today and noticed that I have a larger drain plug in addition to the smaller
on on the pan. it is located right under where the axle shaft exits the tranny. I pulled that plug first and
got out approx 3 quarts of fluid then pulled the smaller one on the pan and plastic riser tube and got
out another quart for a grand total of 4 quarts! that part was easy. the filling took forever as you all
know that fill hole in tiny so as that was filling I made myself useful and put new bushings in the lower
engine mount.
I never heard anyone mention this other larger drain plug, my MCSa was built 10/06 so not sure if
something changed during that build period???

jimmycorn:
Found the crush washer at NAPA for $1.39. It's a 12x17x1 whereas the original OEM is 12x17x2mm.
In my pic above, the OEM is the top silver one, and the one I used is the 2nd copper one. I just
stacked 2 of them and it seems to be holding fine...

clutchless:
I found this letter from Valvoline on a BMW forum where they state it is compatible with Toyota TIV
(which is our fluid), however since TIV is about $4 or $5 at a Toyota dealer, I wonder if Maxlife is any
cheaper than the real thing? I used Mobil 1 Synthetic on mine.

THOMAS R. SMITH Technical Director, Valvoline Brand July 1, 2005 To Whom It May Concern:
Valvoline has received several inquiries regarding the topic of MaxLife ATF and its use in various
vehicles beyond those requiring DEXRON®-III or MERCON® approved products. In response to
these questions Valvoline has issued the following statements: Valvoline supports the use of MaxLife
ATF in a broad range of transmissions beyond those requiring DEXRON III and MERCON fluids
including those where the following fluids are recommended: • GM DEXRON II • Ford MERCON V •
Allison C-4 • Chrysler ATF+3 or ATF+4 fluids • Toyota (and Lexus) Type T, T-III or T-IV fluids •
Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II or SP-III fluids • KIA SP-II and SP-III Fluids • Hyundai • Honda/Acura ATF-
Z1 fluid (except in CVTs) • BMW LT71141 or LA2634 fluids • Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J, and Matic-K
fluids • MB Sheet 236.x • Volvo 1161521 and 1161540 • JWS 3309 • GM 9986195 • Audi G-052-025-
A2 • VW TL52162 Valvoline has conducted in-house testing to support MaxLife ATF performance in
these transmissions. However, it is important to note that these vehicle manufacturers have neither
evaluated nor approved MaxLife ATF. Valvoline stands behind all of its products, including MaxLife
ATF. Use of MaxLife ATF in transmissions where recommended by Valvoline WILL NOT void the
vehicle’s warranty. In the unlikely event that any transmission was to be damaged as a result of the
use of MaxLife ATF, please contact Valvoline at 1-800-Team-VAL. While MaxLife ATF is designed to
meet the special needs of higher mileage transmissions, new transmissions can also benefit from its
enhanced oxidation protection, shear stability, seal compatibility, and anti-shudder protection and
many consumers have chosen to take advantage of this level of performance. MaxLife ATF is
recommended for the new 5 and 6 speed transmissions, except the Ford 5R110, Ford 6RXX, and the
Mercedes Benz W7A700 (7G-Tronic) which all require a low viscosity ATF fluid. Valvoline does not
recommend MaxLife ATF for use in continuously variable transmissions (CVT’s) or in automatic
transmissions where Ford Type F is recommended. Sincerely, Thom Smith Technical Director,
Valvoline Brand Valvoline, a division of Ashland Inc.

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The system total has about 6 quarts, give or take. I'm too lazy to do the math but I am thinking you're
around 80%? I added a little bit of info in my previous post.
Here is my math on 3 drains.
So on first change, 3.5q original, 2.5q new (41.66% new)
On second change, 2.5q fluid is drained, out of which 41.66 is old and 41.66 is new, remember the
fluid has mixed. So out of the 2.5 fresh quarts we initially put in, 1.041585 are actually fresh.
Third change, you add 2.5q of fresh fluid, so you have a total of 3.9585 of new fluid total in the
system.
The final concentration is 3,9585*100/6 = 65,97% new, 34.03% old.
In my case, I started the car up with no fill plug attached, the car puked a quarts of fluid before I shut it
off so really I put in 6 quarts fresh fluid :D I still don't have 100% fresh fluid but I should be darn close.

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