TR050419 HotList Rev2
TR050419 HotList Rev2
TR050419 HotList Rev2
HOT LIST
OUR PICK OF THE BEST
NEW HOTELS IN THE WORLD
UNITED STATES
HÔTEL PETER & PAUL, NEW ORLEANS
Of all the boutique hotels that have landed here over the past
few years, none gets into the bones of the city like this one. Beyond
the heavy mint-green doors, the foyer smells of gardenias. It’s
bright, airy, colorful, with a canary-yellow check-in counter and
equally bright welcome. Star design team Ash NYC has revived
the former 19th-century Catholic church, schoolhouse, convent,
and rectory in the boho Marigny neighborhood, just northeast
of the French Quarter and a walk from the sax-trumpet-clarinet
licks of jazz epicenter Frenchmen Street. As with other Ash NYC
hotels—the Dean, in a 1912 clergy house in Providence;
the Siren, filling a Renaissance Revival building in Detroit—this
place is meant to double as a destination, with sophisticated
communal spaces that beg to be sat in with a chicory coffee or
a Sazerac. In a city of sensory overload, Hôtel Peter & Paul
is the anti–Bourbon Street, where the bed linen is crisp—and
a little austere, like a convent holdover—and the crowd
at its Elysian Bar, brought to you by homegrown wine bar
Bacchanal, is European-house-party cool. FLASH POINT All
furniture is selected from the antiques markets of Europe or
New Orleans’s oldest estates, or made to order by local artisans.
504 356 5200; hotelpeterandpaul.com. Doubles from $119
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CAMBODIA
SHINTA MANI WILD
Suddenly there is a very big reason to stay on in Cambodia after
seeing the temples at Angkor Wat. Roughly halfway between
the capital, Phnom Penh, and the south coast are 850 acres of
protected private land hosting a flamboyant new camp—and
one of the hottest openings in Asia this year. Opt to arrive by zip
line, landing next to a waterfall with huge double sun loungers
in vivid greens and yellows, driftwood statues of life-size
elephants, and 15 tented rooms, some with rolltop bathtubs on
the riverside deck. It’s signature Bill Bensley, the daring designer
renowned across Southeast Asia for his playful flourishes and
lush gardens. He has partnered with hotelier Sokoun Chanpreda
before on three delightful properties in Siem Reap (branded Shinta
Mani). The powerhouse pair’s main motivation is conservation.
While staying here, join anti-elephant-poaching patrols or explore
the hardwood forest between the Southern Cardamom and
Kirirom National parks by mountain bike and kayak. There are
seemingly unlimited spa treatments, a sensational 100-foot-long
pool, and a daily menu under brilliant chef Patricia Yeo, who
uses foraged greens, mushrooms, and fruits from the forest. Shinta
Mani Wild opens up an entire region to the jetset, with style
and a firm focus on the environment it now helps us all get to.
FLASH POINT Ask manager Sangjay Choegyal to take you
on a forest walk; he grew up at Tiger Tops Jungle Lodge in
Nepal and is a top birder. +855 63 964 123; shintamani.com.
Tents from about $2,360 full board, minimum three-night stay
ISRAEL
THE JAFFA HOTEL, TEL AVIV
The historic Jaffa neighborhood has become a cachet of
Tel Aviv cool, loaded with designer boutiques, cocktail bars,
and bohemian locals inside its 4,000-year-old walls. It’s
appropriate, then, that the hotel that shares its name should act
as a microcosm of the area. Star architect John Pawson and his
team spent 10 years creating an aesthetic that plays to Jaffa’s
old/new dichotomy within this former convent turned hospital.
In the lobby, remains of a 13th-century Crusaders’ fortress
discovered during the hotel’s excavation are displayed alongside
two Damien Hirst paintings, twin George Condo busts, and
bespoke backgammon tables designed by Pawson himself. The
bar space, with its stained-glass windows and checkered floors,
feels both biblical and current—especially when beautiful
Tel Avivians are sipping negronis on the brown suede Cini Boeri
Botolo chairs. In a city with a spectacular homegrown food
scene, the Jaffa made a bold move placing New York’s Major
Food Group in the kitchen. The rigatoni alla Norma and grilled
octopus recall its Manhattan hot spot Carbone, but the way
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FRANCE
LE BARN, BONNELLES
Parisians are not so unlike Londoners and New Yorkers.
Come Friday, they, too, hightail it to the country for 48 hours
of blissfully slower living. Their options for where to spend
the weekend have been mostly restricted to ancestral manors
and castles that require serious mileage to reach—as well as
a dress code at dinner. Last summer’s opening of rustic
Le Barn changed all that. This former horse-riding academy
turned nature camp for grown-ups, 34 miles southwest of
Paris, is an extension of the very cool boutique-hotel scene
sweeping the city’s north-central arrondissements; one that
marries urban taste and country retreat. So much so that the
Isabel Marant–wearing crowd drinking at the Hoxton in the
Marais on a Wednesday is the same one soaking in Le Barn’s
outdoor Nordic baths the following Saturday. Design Studio
Be-poles, which was responsible for the louche interiors
of Le Pigalle hotel, did a fine job of keeping the countryside in
focus here, placing plants throughout and blending raw materials
such as corkboard in the rooms, which were used to store grain
in the 1950s. Though it’s what’s on the outside that counts:
hikes through the surrounding Rambouillet forest, outdoor film
screenings, and yoga under the trees. As Paris moves in a
direction that feels increasingly hipster, Le Barn is the type of
place where those breathing new life into the city go to recharge.
FLASH POINT There is no set checkout time on Sundays;
don’t rush through a brunch of local charcuterie and cheeses,
organic fruit jams, and oven-fresh baguettes and croissants.
+33 1 86 38 00 00; lebarnhotel.com. Doubles from about $165
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MEXICO
PUNTA CALIZA, ISLA HOLBOX
Word may now be out about this tiny isle off the Yucatán, but
that has not compromised Holbox’s subtle charms. Along
its northern edge, a string of taco shacks and palapa-style hotels
with thatched roofs and adobe walls stretches across the
uninterrupted sands. One block inland, this phenomenally
well-designed hideaway stands out from the rest. Guadalajara-
based Estudio Macías Peredo kept the thatch but placed
it on top of 12 slick villas of red bark and limestone stucco,
inspired by a Mayan building technique known as chukum,
arranged in the shape of a triangle. The knockout element is
what fills the open space between them. Instead of a traditional
courtyard or terrace, Peredo created a swimming pool where
the water, the same milky green as the Caribbean, laps right up
against the villas’ cedarwood doors. Yet for all its style,
Punta Caliza retains the island’s relaxed, flip-flops-at-dinner
ease. The friendly owner, Cuauhtémoc Muñoz, is quick to
share an icy Corona and a chat with guests after mornings
spent on the hotel’s private beach. Breakfasts of fresh orange
juice, chilaquiles, and tropical fruit are set up poolside,
and insanely fresh octopus ceviche is served in coconut husks.
FLASH POINT Head to the bar inside the adjacent tower
at sunset for incredible views over the colorful sea.
+52 99 8800 0119; puntacaliza.com. Doubles from about $210
AUSTRALIA
PARAMOUNT HOUSE HOTEL, SYDNEY
This place certainly doesn’t front like a standard hotel, and
that’s a great thing. Creatives in all black and sharp glasses sip
flat whites and hold lunch meetings over slick Mac laptops
in the sun-drenched Paramount Coffee Project, ostensibly
the lobby of the hotel. Wander toward the back, taking in all
the midcentury olive green and exposed brick from the
building’s past life as the Paramount Pictures Studios building,
and make an educated guess that the woman smiling
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INDIA
SOHO HOUSE MUMBAI
As in other Indian cities that flourished in the days of the British
Raj, Mumbai’s old-fashioned club culture is alive and well—
across well-heeled generations—in a way that would have made
the retired majors of the era scratch their heads in wonderment.
But this town has never had an establishment like this before.
The familiar Soho House aesthetic (let’s not say formula) works
wonderfully here. Nothing has been reinvented: There’s still
the same combination of bars, restaurants, theaters, and
breakout spaces found in the group’s outposts from London’s
White City to West Hollywood. But each Indian twist freshens
everything up nicely: the printed textiles in vibrant yellows
and reds; the locally sourced wicker-ware and hand-made
furniture. Some may gripe about the location, in an 11-story,
Art Deco–style tower beside Juhu Beach, not far from the
airport. But the fact is that the city’s creative center is shifting
northward, and this is now the place to be. It’s a bejeweled
stone’s throw from Bollywood. Time will tell how enthusiastically
membership is taken up, but you can’t help thinking that Nick
Jones has once again gotten it spot-on. FLASH POINT In a
departure from Soho House tradition, the Big rooms here are
indeed really big, and the ones to book. +91 22 6213 3333;
sohohousemumbai.com. Doubles from about $230
NAMIBIA
SHIPWRECK LODGE
There is remote, and then there is the Skeleton Coast, a
desolate sweep of coastline along the Atlantic that feels utterly
isolated. Shipwreck Lodge is from the heavily conservation-
driven outfitter Natural Selection and has now opened as the
area’s first polished hotel with a point of view worthy of
such otherworldliness. The 10 wooden cabins set against
a flaxen sand dune were designed by Namibian bio-architect
Nina Maritz to look much like the many ships that have run
aground here over the centuries. Through porthole windows,
guests view a haunting, foggy landscape that is home to
desert-adapted lion and antelope. During the day, four-wheel
drives whiz up and down tawny dunes, past parched terrain,
and along the edge of the brooding ocean, which crashes onto
marbled sand, littered with whale bones. In the evenings,
after the sun has burned the mist away, fynbos-infused gin
and tonics are served on the beach. When the shore gets too
chilly, it’s onto dinner in the main building, where sofas,
PHOTOGRAPH: DOOK PHOTOGRAPHY
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SWITZERLAND
CASA CAMINADA, FÜRSTENAU
There used to be a singular motive for skiers in Switzerland’s pinot
noir–producing Rhine Valley to ditch the glitz of St. Moritz and
head an hour northwest to the village of Fürstenau après their
après: Schloss Schauenstein, an understated 16th-century castle
with a three-Michelin-starred restaurant. Now its chef, Andreas
Caminada, is giving them reason to stay the night. Last October,
he opened the exquisite Casa Caminada in a born-again barn on
the castle grounds, where rustic ambience is tempered with urban
touches, and authenticity replaces the musty luxuries ubiquitous
in Swiss mountain-palace hotels. Upstairs, 10 sun-flooded rooms
retain original exposed beams, enhanced by reclaimed larchwood
parquet floors and furniture custom-made by local carpenters.
To soften the masculinity, Patricia Urquiola added pops of
refined Italian style, including brass-and-magenta-linen loungers
for absorbing sunshine or finishing a novel. It is unexpected and
fabulous. The airy new restaurant offers buttery and crunchy
maluns (crumb-like dumplings made with shredded potatoes)
and walnut tortes baked in a volcanic-stone oven. Casa Caminada
places the design and food expected of Milan, 123 miles south,
in one of the most glorious natural settings anywhere on earth.
FLASH POINT To access the village’s 14th-century Protestant
church, use the honor-system key in the box by the cemetery gate.
+41 81 632 30 50; casacaminada.com. Doubles from about $200
ENGLAND
HECKFIELD PLACE, HAMPSHIRE
As anticipated openings go, this one was a humdinger: Stories
about the extraordinary restoration of Heckfield Place made the
rounds for 10 years before the redbrick Hampshire mansion
opened to guests in September. It’s all the more impressive,
then, that the 18th-century estate has wildly exceeded
expectations. Designer Ben Thompson, who was also behind
Stockholm’s divine Ett Hem, set off the elegant bones of the
property with a color scheme redolent of the countryside—
with buckets of natural light—and softened its Georgian might
with touches of cozy deshabille (strewn wool blankets,
blowsy bouquets of rosehips from the cutting garden). On site
are two restaurants overseen by superchef Skye Gyngell, who
has the run of 300 acres of organic farmland to fuel her menus, PHOTOGRAPHS: GAUDENZ DANUSER; VINCENT LEOURX
and a 67-seat cinema showing new releases three times a
week. Gerald Chan, Heckfield’s billionaire owner, has a passion
for 20th-century British art, and many pieces from his
private collection are hanging here; keep an eye out for the
black-and-white photographs by Elsbeth Juda lining the main
staircase, and the striking portrait of Virginia Woolf by
Marguerite Mary Darbour. Like Babington House some 20 years
before it, Heckfield confirms that big-city tastes can translate
to the country, and that doing so does not mean compromising
the intimacy urbanites so desperately seek when needing
to escape for a long weekend. FLASH POINT The largest
of the 45 rooms has 180-degree views of Hampshire’s rolling
countryside and costs a bank-breaking $13,200 a night.
+44 118 932 6868; heckfieldplace.com. Doubles from about $465
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INDONESIA
CAPELLA UBUD, BALI
It’s not like Bali needed another hotel, especially around the
island’s teeming spiritual hub of Ubud. But the notoriously
inventive Bill Bensley envisioned something wholly divergent for
this 10-acre patch of jungle north of the city on the Wos River:
a fanciful take on a tented camp pitched by early-19th-century
spice traders. This is hotel as theater: On arrival, visitors receive
a survival kit (sunscreen and insect repellent, a map), plus a
carved walking stick to help pick their way over the suspension
bridges leading to 22 black canvas tents with saltwater plunge
pools. Each retreat is a mise-en-scène representing
expeditionary characters: The Naturalist’s Tent is hung with
binoculars and watercolors of flora and fauna; the Cartographer’s
is home to a mini-museum of compasses and charts. Nor
does the food shake the storyline: The Mads Lange, named after
a notorious Danish trader, turns out full English breakfasts in
cast-iron pans. Bensley’s light-footprint approach (not a single
tree was felled) means the camp blends seamlessly into
its backdrop, the tent walls porous to the hooting birds of the
jungle. It’s ideal for those looking to approach Bali in a more
conscious way—staying here is like returning to the island’s
former wild self. FLASH POINT Participate in water blessings at
the Wos River temple, which was restored with the help of villagers.
+62 361 2091 888; capellahotels.com. Tents from about $1,345
ST. BART’S
MANAPANY
Unique on an island well known for profligate excess, Parisian
Anne Jousse, owner of a portfolio of small hotels in France,
including the groundbreaking Bel Ami in Saint-Germain-
des-Prés, sought to introduce more than a modicum of
eco-responsibility to St. Bart’s. The glamorous hotelier had
fallen for Manapany, a once-upon-a-time chic spot on
the sleepy north shore, on family trips. She bought the place
in 2016 and initiated a top-to-toe reconstruction of its
4.2-acre beachfront on Anse des Cayes. Two years and one
major hurricane later, it’s been reborn. Water is heated by solar
panels, no chemicals are used in cleaning or maintenance,
towels are made of woven bamboo, and only electric cars are
permitted beyond reception. Yet Jousse’s endeavor isn’t
lacking a lick of luxe. All 43 sea-view rooms and villas—eight
directly on the sand, others a mighty but rewarding 80 steps
above and with enormous terraces—are gracefully decorated
by Parisian designer François Champsaur, with walls painted
PHOTOGRAPH: BERNARD TOUILLON
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UNITED STATES
THE HOXTON, NEW YORK
Last fall, when the Hoxton plunked itself down on
Williamsburg’s Wythe Avenue—the neighborhood’s unofficial
hotel strip—it was as much for New Yorkers as for visitors.
Cases in point: a quirky, retro lobby that’s perfect for long, lazy
Sunday afternoons; an events space that has hosted, among
other things, a pop-up tattoo studio; a rooftop bar that doesn’t
have a line (yet). The U.K.-based Ennismore designed the
hotel to feel extremely Brooklyn, dotting it with locally sourced
vintage furniture and bookshelves displaying hefty tomes
on contemporary art, and ’70-style chandeliers hanging from
the lofty ceiling. The three on-site restaurants—seasonal
Summerly and Backyard and the year-round favorite Klein’s—
are overseen by Jud Mongell and Zeb Stewart, the names
behind Williamsburg’s beloved Five Leaves, Union Pool, and
Hotel Delmano. The cocktails are a delight (order the mezcal-
infused Fire Island), and the food spans everything from New
American comfort at Klein’s to New England–style lobster rolls
at Summerly. Upstairs, the 175 rooms, like the ones at the
Hoxton in Paris, are not massive but fit king-size beds and
have views of either the Manhattan or Brooklyn skyline. For
a brand that’s opening two more Stateside locations this year,
the Hoxton in Williamsburg signals that L.A. and Chicago have
a lot to look forward to. FLASH POINT The outdoor, all-brick
courtyard hosts igloo dining in the winter and parties once
the sun’s out. 718 215 7100; thehoxton.com. Doubles from $170
SOUTH AFRICA
ANDBEYOND TENGILE RIVER LODGE
South Africa’s Sabi Sand Game Reserve is one of the country’s
most competitive parks for slick lodges; andBeyond knew this
when launching its second outpost here, in December. The
hook this time? Exclusive access to areas for prime lion, leopard,
and cheetah viewing, an increasingly valuable selling point
as the game parks become more crowded. Nothing kills a buzz
like waiting bumper-to-bumper to see a hyena. The veteran
company negotiated for sole access to an entire 25,946 acres in
the southeast of the reserve, including parts of neighboring
Lion Sands and Charleston crisscrossed by both the Sand and
Sabi rivers. It even closed down some of the rooms at sibling
Kirkman’s Kamp to ensure fewer game-drive vehicles. It doesn’t
hurt that Tengile, meaning “tranquil” in Tsonga, is next-level
handsome too. Each of the nine guest rooms is at least a
whopping 2,150 square feet, with an indoor-outdoor living
space and a glass-walled bathroom with lots of forest-green
marble. Feast on global tapas for a late lunch poolside before
PHOTOGRAPH: DOOK PHOTOGRAPHY
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ANGUILLA
BELMOND CAP JULUCA
When Cap Juluca opened on a mile-long white crescent here
in 1988, it was widely considered—to quote its sanguine
American-born owners—“the best hotel on the best beach in
the Caribbean.” The domed villas, a few with then-scarce plunge
pools, brought worldly glamour to a squiggle of an island that
had only recently acquired roads and drew discretion-seeking
jetsetters from chockablock St. Martin. Families flew to Cap J year
after year, while major handshake deals would go down on
Maundays Bay and legendary parties would keep the drinks flowing
at Pimms restaurant. Eventually, of course, the crowd moved on,
and the beleaguered owners sold the property to Belmond in May
2017—just before Hurricane Irma barreled in. No matter: In a
$130 million refurb, Rottet Studio (the Surrey in New York) added
five new villas and recast the interiors, replacing the Moroccan
carpets and lanterns with soft linens, rattan, and seagrass. While
Pimms is still here, dishing out a neo-Caribbean tasting menu, the
real star is Cip’s, an offshoot of the Belmond Cipriani’s Venetian
lagoonside restaurant, serving the best grilled-lobster pasta in
the Leewards. Approving regulars are back, though no sooner had
they crossed into the new lobby than LVMH announced it had
snapped up Belmond—a sign that memories are the most precious
things we can own. Cap Juluca shows that classics can be reinvented,
and be just as alluring as the original. FLASH POINT At the
beachside Cap Shack there’s calypso and rum punch on tap all day.
264 497 6666; belmond.com. Doubles from about $925
LAOS
ROSEWOOD LUANG PRABANG
Despite an uptick in visitors over the past decade, magical,
spiritual Luang Prabang, in northern Laos, still has genuine
caught-in-time appeal: a place to move easily between
traditional gilded temples, saffron-clad monks, and francophone
bookstores. For those chasing a Somerset Maugham fantasy,
the new Rosewood Luang Prabang is the perfect home base.
The hotel is on the outskirts of town, a simple 10-minute drive
from the historic district. How easy it is to reach the room,
however, depends on whether you go for one of the 17 river- or
poolside rooms or villas, or one of the six safari-style tents—
the brand’s first dip into glamping. The tents, luxe hillside aeries,
PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD JAMES TAYLOR; OWEN RAGGETT
require light climbing, but the payoff in privacy and sunrises
from the balcony is worth it. To reach all of the Bill Bensely–
designed rooms (teak and plenty of throwback touches like dial
telephones and framed vintage maps), cross a river that snakes
through the property. Cleverly, the wooden bridge is also a bar,
serving excellent vodka highballs with Laotian snacks. A real
highlight is Rosewood’s guest-experience manager Sommaiy,
a former monk who leads hikes to forest temples where revered
abbots practice the esoteric art of Sak Yant Buddhist tattoo,
an insightful alternative to the tourist-packed processions
on main Sisavangvong Road. A few days is utterly resetting;
it may even compel some to put pen to paper and try for the
next great novel. FLASH POINT Rosewood can arrange
a private Tak Bat ceremony in Phanom village alongside robed
monks chanting Buddhist scriptures. +856 7121 1155;
rosewoodluangprabang.com. Doubles from about $490
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GEORGIA
STAMBA HOTEL, TBILISI
The third installment from Adjara makes the local rock-and-roll
hotel group’s Rooms and Fabrika properties—both game
changing, both achingly cool for their time—feel like warm-up
acts to headliner Stamba. Occupying a Soviet-era printing house,
the hotel struts that building’s original brutalist bones, from its
unpolished concrete beams to its double-height ceilings and
gilded bathtubs fit for Tamar the Great. It’s far more glamorous
than the cozy, vintage-Brooklyn-style interiors that Rooms ran
with in 2005—and the rooms here are much more spacious. The
overall feel is far from austere, because of the floor-to-ceiling
shelves of antique books, collection of tropical plants that borders
on a mini rain forest, and sumptuously upholstered furniture—
good luck getting back up after sinking into one of those
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANA GABASHVILI; ROBBIE LAWRENCE
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ENGLAND
BANKSIDE HOTEL, LONDON
London’s center of gravity wobbles this way and that, but the
South Bank has clocked a prime view of the action since Roman
ships scudded up the Thames. Though never has it seen so
much urban drama as right now. Despite a profanity of high-
rises gobbling up the sight lines, the Bankside Hotel is
appealingly succinct at just six stories behind Blackfriars Bridge,
angled to catch the light. It’s been curated by Dayna Lee, the
film-set designer for Dances With Wolves. What it brings to mind,
though, isn’t Hollywood but the set of a ’60s TV show, with
bob wigs and mod dresses. It’s all those sheer white walls and
honeycomb concrete, jaunty Scandi chairs and pottery shelves
with lineups of bone-white vases, and abstract shapes in every
direction. One of the standout pieces, however, is the ceramic
mural running along one wall of the restaurant and bar, picking out
scenes from riverside history: Viking boats, fishing, and the
Great Fire. Pick up Tom Ford sunnies and even engagement rings
from the elevator-side vending machine. A mezzanine gallery
with arts titles for browsing leads onto a garden terrace—views
of the river and St. Paul’s are a little restricted, but you’re still in
the box seats up here. There’s a midcentury positivity, a festival
of British optimism; this is a thoughtful pied-à-terre hotel for
dedicated followers of London. FLASH POINT There are
water-carafe stations on each floor, single-use plastics are banished,
and key cards are made from paper. +44 20 3319 5988;
banksidehotel.com. Doubles from about $380
FRANCE
BRACH, PARIS
The staid 16th arrondissement hasn’t exactly drawn visitors
over the years. So it’s a testament to the cool factor of Evok
Hotels that it can take a former mail-sorting facility in this
bourgeois, residential district and make it le talk of Paris. After
a four-year renovation overseen by designer Philippe Starck,
the resulting hotel is as much about a lifestyle as it is a place to
crash. For one thing, the buzzing restaurant draws fashionable
locals starting at breakfast and continuing until the early hours
with its patisserie, plates to share, and potent drinks. A terrace
bar, newly opened to coincide with the warmer months, lures
the pretty people, as will the rooftop vegetable garden when it’s
converted into a bar in the summer (currently only suite guests
have access). The subterranean fitness club channels a ’30s PHOTOGRAPHS: YANN AUDIC; GUILLAUME DE LAUBIER
boxing gym and had a wait list the minute it opened. Even the
swimming pool has a killer sound system. The party continues
in the rooms, each with its own mini concept store (the minibar
is so 2018), stocked with premade cocktails by the Avantgarde
Spirits Company. The design smacks of Starck’s typical sassy
eclecticism: walls covered in rich rosewood and leather, African
masks and Maasai-style beadwork, and potted cacti next to the
bathroom sinks hewn from unfinished blocks of marble. Who
knew that the 16th, of all places, would become the city’s next
hip address? FLASH POINT Book the Suzanne Suite for the
terrace, where you can soak in a hot tub facing the Eiffel Tower.
+33 1 44 30 10 00; brachparis.com. Doubles from about $565
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MEXICO
HOTEL AMPARO, SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE
This incredibly pretty pueblo is Mexico’s artistic epicenter.
But UNESCO-protected San Miguel, two and a half hours
northwest of the capital, had been resting on its Crayola-colored
colonial laurels, overlooking the trends of its creative
counterparts around the globe. Enter first-time hoteliers Mariana
Barran de Goodall and Taylor Goodall. After getting married
here four years ago, they bought a 300-year-old former mayor’s
residence in the cobblestoned center and transformed it into
a guesthouse with cheerful touches to appeal to cool-hunting
travelers. A lovely courtyard filled with bougainvillea, towering
palms, and a cobalt-blue-tiled fireplace opens up to a salon with
a mezcal bar and a café. Four stately ground-floor rooms have
bronze four-poster beds decorated with Oaxacan textiles,
paintings from the couple’s private art collection, and vintage
furniture sourced from Europe. Upstairs is the fifth room, with
a mural by Argentine artist Lucas Rise, steps from the rooftop
restaurant Bar Margaret, which serves Latin-Southern small
plates such as shrimp and grits topped with pico de gallo and a
curated wine list heavy on labels from nearby natural wineries.
Hotel Amparo knows exactly how to honor the history
and artistry that have been the calling cards of San Miguel for
decades, while making it modern. FLASH POINT Locanda
will open in a parlor off the entrance by midsummer, with
a rotating menu of handmade pastas and Sicilian wines.
+52 1 415 152 0819; hotelamparo.com. Doubles from about $200
BAHAMAS
ROSEWOOD BAHA MAR
There are a few givens we look forward to with beachside
mega hotels. Water toys—paddleboards, overwater trampolines,
Jet Skis—are fun and plentiful. There’s a pool for every type,
from child-free to swim-up-bar to infinity. A Rolodex’s worth
of restaurants and bars means what you want to eat is always
available. The year-old Rosewood Baha Mar, with its 237 rooms
rising high over Nassau’s Caribbean, nails all of the above. But it
also pulls off something exceedingly rare for its genre: It captures
the destination in a way that goes beyond the conch-fritter
shack off the beach path (which we also love). A heavy dose of
mahogany in the large guest rooms nods to the island’s British
heritage. Large murals in the lobby recall the Bahamas’ history.
For a more satisfying glimpse of art, stroll the complex, where
the 2,500-piece collection including stained-glass sculpture and
photography is all local and curated by John Cox, formerly of the
National Art Gallery of the Bahamas. In fact, it’s likely guests
will meet the affable Cox while here. He heads up Baha Mar’s
creative space, where a selection of local artists craft bags and
PHOTOGRAPH: DURSTON SAYLOR
clothing in a large studio on the property’s first floor. All are sold
on-site, resulting in the perfect version of a hotel gift shop.
This mix of locality and cerulean sea makes Rosewood Baha Mar
the easiest place to stop in to for winter sun without becoming
a total beach bum. FLASH POINT At the Caribbean-style high
tea, eight types of Bahamian-grown bush blends are served.
242 788 8500; rosewoodhotels.com. Doubles from about $595
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INDIA
THE OBEROI, NEW DELHI
Since it first opened, in 1965, the Oberoi’s been a de facto
clubhouse for Delhi’s who’s who, just as popular with locals
dropping in to see and be seen as with visiting prime ministers
looking for a place to lay their head between meetings.
A two-year closure for a top-to-bottom revamp left a gaping
hole in the city’s social calendar, but ever since it reopened its
freshly buffed doors in 2018, New Delhi has had its high-society
haunt back. Stepping inside is arresting—not only because of
the jewel-encrusted screen that anchors the lobby but also
because the hotel has a purification system that promises the
cleanest air in the pollution-choked city. Adam Tihany was tasked
with the redo and took subtle cues from the work of Sir Edwin
Lutyens, the architect behind the layout of modern New Delhi.
The 220 rooms are generously sized—taking a gamble by
reducing the count from 283 paid off—and details like gilt-edged
Art Deco touches and sprawling stand-alone bathtubs are
suitably ornate. But what will ensure that Delhiites keep returning
to celebrate engagements, host reunions, or just because it’s
Saturday are the restaurants and bars: Beloved Threesixty
is better than ever, while newly added Omya and Chinese
restaurant Baoshyan are both run by chefs with Michelin-starred
spots in London. The magnificent landmark is restored as the
pulse point of the city. FLASH POINT Rooms look over the
Delhi Golf Club and 16th-century Humayun’s Tomb.
+91 11 2436 3030; oberoihotels.com. Doubles from about $360
CHINA
BULGARI HOTEL, SHANGHAI
The past 18-odd months have seen a bonanza of hotel openings
in China’s largest city, notably the Capella in the French
Concession, the Middle House in the central Jing’an district, and
the astonishing Amanyangyun on the outskirts. Bulgari stands
out for its ability to channel the city vibe without losing a sense
of its Italian DNA. Foster + Partners designed the tower as
a shiny mirror in which to reflect Shanghai’s wild eclecticism and
energy. Inside, an immaculately choreographed tussle between
Italian and Chinese design is enacted in marble and bronze
versus silk and lacquer. There are marvelous views in every
direction, though there is no need to take an ear-popping
elevator ride to the upper levels to peep at Shanghai’s history.
Those familiar with the brand will notice hallmarks of the jewelry
house’s other five properties here. The exterior shimmers like
a case filled with gems. The 82 rooms—including the ornate
Bulgari Suite, said to be the biggest in the city—follow a palette
of dark wood and balanced monochrome. Chef Niko Romito’s
lasagna, like at the Bulgari hotel in Beijing, is the dish to order
at Il Ristorante; you’ll also want to do lemon gelato at Il Giardino,
PHOTOGRAPH: INGALLS PHOTO
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MALAYSIA
THE DATAI LANGKAWI
The phrase game changer gets bandied around a lot, but the Datai
was truly that when it opened 26 years ago, transforming this
under-the-radar Malaysian castaway spot into the go-to
Southeast Asian escape. With Kerry Hill’s woodsy jungle-luxe
architecture, the rain-forest setting, and the crescent of
feather-soft sand, it was an instant classic. Fast-forward to now,
and it is making its mark again after a $60 million overhaul.
Architecture and interiors whiz Didier Lefort has upped the Zen
factor, sanding back the villas’ dark wood floors, adding hand-
poured bathtubs, and scattering statement artwork—including
a 1,500-pound tangle of petrified tree roots—throughout the
grounds. Here, dusky leaf monkeys with eye markings like Iris
Apfel’s glasses swing through sea-almond trees next to a new
nature center overseen by walking wildlife encyclopedia Irshad
Mobarak. The grand zigzag steps that descend from the
adults-only pool and the veteran staff who know all the regulars’
favorites remain. But there are plenty of new elements to
discover: a butterfly garden and a revamped spa with treatments
by pedicure maestro Bastien Gonzalez. Most fun is the bigger
beach club where families feast on satay as the sun sets. A game
changer? Yes. But one that still feels like a wonderfully wild
secret. FLASH POINT The new Datai Estate Villa, with five
bedrooms in the jungle, is the spot for multigenerational groups.
+60 4 950 0500; thedatai.com. Doubles from about $700
UNITED STATES
HOTEL JOAQUIN, CALIFORNIA
Until last fall, anyone seeking a cozy place in Laguna Beach would
have gotten as far as the St. Regis before realizing they should
have hit Malibu instead. But now, pull up to this Californian
dream of an inn—a space that exists somewhere between
bungalow, motor lodge, and your best friend’s beach house—to
find a suntanned crowd sipping beers on sofas by the fire in the
indoor-outdoor living room. The vibe is relaxed, even by
Southern California standards. Owner Paul Makarechian, who
has a string of small hotels on the West Coast, wanted Joaquin
to be a place to drop in to: barefoot, rule-free. Staff are cheery;
guests will know everyone’s first name by the end of the
weekend—including George, Joaquin’s resident adventure guru,
who is likely to stop by during dinner to see who wants to go
kayaking on the Pacific the next day. The lived-in charm is
folded into the design, too. Robert McKinley, who did Montauk’s
PHOTOGRAPHS: CARMEN CHAN; CARLEY RUDD
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ITALY
CASA IRIS, ORBETELLO
While old-school Italian seaside destinations such as Capri and
Portofino can seem stuck, Tuscany’s Maremma is shining ever
brighter. At the heart of this stretch of long beaches backed by
rolling olive-and-wine country is Orbetello, a laid-back town
in Grosseto with something of a Spanish feel, scenically set on an
isthmus in a coastal lagoon. And at the heart of Orbetello is
Casa Iris, this rising destination’s first truly chic place to stay. With
the help of Giorgia Cerulli, the interiors eye behind Rome’s
G-Rough hotel, owners James Valeri and Matthew Adams have
created a one-off design mix: a brilliant blend of Art Deco,
midcentury modern, and ’70s eclecticism in the furniture and
fittings picked up at shops, fairs, and markets across Italy. And
it’s perfectly in keeping with the meticulous spirit of Casa Iris that
Valeri and Adams should have asked a specialist who worked
on the Sistine Chapel to restore the frescoes, which date from
the 18th to early 20th centuries. But what makes Casa Iris really
special is that it is essentially a three-bedroom family apartment—
with a powder-blue kitchen where breakfast is served, starring
homemade jams from the garden of the Valeri family’s Monte
Argentario house. Staying here doesn’t feel remotely like
checking in to a hotel. It feels like being allowed inside one of
Italy’s most stylish private homes. FLASH POINT Get
involved in Orbetello’s post-beach aperitivo scene with some
persuasive nibbles at Barakà on Via Vincenzo Gioberti.
+39 392 529 8010; casairisorbetello.com. Doubles from about $160
UNITED STATES
FREEHAND, NEW YORK
It’s a given that young visitors to New York don’t want to blow the
budget on a fancy hotel room. Better to book something that’s at
least clean, comfortable, and strategically located, and spend the
extra cash on that restaurant everyone has been posting about.
Freehand takes this compromise and somehow manages to make
it feel sexy and stylish. Rooms, including queens, kings, and bunk
rooms for four, are basic—verging on dormlike—but brightened up
with artworks that sometimes snake across the walls and ceilings.
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HOT LIST PONANT LE BOUGAINVILLE
CRUISES UNDER-EXPLORED SEYCHELLES
These 115 islands are surrounded by clear blue ocean and coral.
OUR PICK OF THE BEST NEW The nine-day Essential Seychelles expedition, sailing from
SHIPS AND ITINERARIES Victoria, Mahé, on Ponant’s 184-passenger Le Bougainville,
ventures deep into the archipelago, visiting eight islands rarely
touched by tourism, with scenery that is completely unspoiled;
this is a part of the planet truly only accessible by the right ship.
There are so many highlights, like encountering Aldabra giant
tortoises—one of the world’s largest species, some weighing
880 pounds—on red-earthed Curieuse Island; spotting
thousands of birds, many endemic, on granitic Aride, an
island nature reserve; and snorkeling with a seasoned team
amid kaleidoscopic schools of fish. The ship has the feel
of a medium-size yacht, with a hydraulic platform that lets
Zodiacs disembark and gives easy sea access for swimming,
kayaking, and paddleboarding to empty beaches. The interiors
are full of light cherry wood, and the views are incredible.
As is the French food, including the flakiest croissants
and tastiest cheeses. This is the itinerary for getting up close
and personal with this gorgeous archipelago. ponant.com.
Doubles from $4,440 per person, based on double occupancy
AZAMARA PURSUIT
CULTURE KICKS IN GREECE
Skip Greece’s crowds by sailing the 702-passenger Azamara
Pursuit’s Greek Intensive, calling into tiny ports that big
vessels can’t access. Plus, this ship often sails later at night,
so passengers can knock back ouzo and feast on fresh
fish in lively beachfront tavernas after dark. This 12-day
Venice-to-Piraeus (Athens) voyage does include some classic
ports, like Mykonos, all blue and white, and Santorini. At
the latter, bypass streets mobbed with visitors to instead see
Greece’s own Pompeii: the excavated ruins of Akrotiri,
a volcano-destroyed 3,500-year-old Minoan town. In the
southeastern Peloponnese Peninsula, there’s the chance to
go deep into Laconian culture, touring medieval Monemvasia
and learning to prepare hearty local dishes like clay-pot-baked
feta and stuffed tomatoes in a hands-on class at a historical
estate. In Gythion, a seaside town on the Mani Peninsula,
there are treks to eerie Mystras, a UNESCO World Heritage
PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMES BEDFORD; ANA LUI
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2019 SEABOURN OVATION
CRUISE HIGH GLAMOUR IN ASIA
This 600-passenger ocean liner is a near mirror of Seabourn’s Encore,
which has been gliding all over the world since 2016. Italian ship-
making giant Fincantieri kept the room count the same but expanded
the public areas and added a deck, all kitted out in the signature
mahogany to give this ship, like all of Seabourn’s fleet, the feeling of
a mega yacht. Another bonus? Entry-level Veranda suites (the brand’s
most spacious ever, starting at 246 square feet) have their own
private balconies from which to take in the soaring Hong Kong skyline
while pulling out of the harbor. Seabourn’s ace is its best-in-the-
business partnerships; the Ovation has a musical from Tim Rice as
well as yoga and mantra meditation from new-age wellness guru
Dr. Andrew Weil. Chef Thomas Keller does juicy lobster thermidor,
while Regiis Ova Siberian Reserve caviar from Keller’s own caviar
company is scooped up at cocktail hour. It’s an elegant slip of
a ship restoring glamour to the high seas with all the frills to match.
seabourn.com. Doubles from $3,999 per person, based on double occupancy
NORWEGIAN BLISS
A MULTIGEN TRIP IN MEXICO
With 4,004 passengers onboard, Bliss has the challenge of keeping
a lot of people happy, from solo travelers to grandparents
on a multigen trip. There are classes in yoga, bridge, and painting,
PHOTOGRAPHS: LUDWIG FAVRE; SANJIN LOPATIC
buzzy, while the theater puts on the big-ticket musical Jersey Boys.
At the late-night Cavern Club, twentysomethings party hard and then
sweat out the hangover at the pool the next day. For somewhere
quieter, Bliss has a 20,000-square-foot Observation Lounge
to look out to the horizon. Norwegian is known for its colossal ships
with a seemingly endless list of activities. With Bliss, it takes
that winning formula one step further. norwegianvoyages.com.
Doubles from $650 per person, based on double occupancy
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CRUISE
CELEBRITY EDGE
A CARIBBEAN DESIGN HAUL
Even non-cruisers went nuts for this heavy-hitter when it
launched from Fort Lauderdale last December. It is rare,
after all, that a single big-name designer throws him- or herself
into such a project. Celebrity Edge has landed four. Across
the 16 decks, passengers in linen slacks and oversize
sunglasses hang out in day-to-night bars from Milan-based
Patricia Urquiola, whose love of pretty pastels and blond
wood is displayed in the ship’s entertainment space, Eden,
with particular flair (it’s accessed through an immersive art
display). In the main lobby, a dramatic chandelier from cool
Parisian interiors house Jouin Manku dangles over the martini
bar. Clean, simple cabins from Kelly Hoppen seem to glow
when the Caribbean sun rises each morning. Though perhaps
the most stirring element is actually on the outside. In an
industry first, Tom Wright, who was behind Dubai’s Burj al Arab,
created a cantilevered bar, the Flying Carpet, that moves up
and down the ship’s exterior as passengers drink the most
perfect negroni on the high seas. Celebrity Edge proves cruises
can be surprising leaders in polished design. celebritycruises.com.
From $1,599 per person, based on double occupancy
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