natural wine

It’s only natural: And the winner is…

the 31 wines
La Stoppa, Ageno, Emilia,
Emilia-Romagna, Italy 2011
94 Simon Woolf 95 Andrew Jefford 95 Sarah Jane Evans MW 92

you need to try £24.10-£28 Exel, Hay Wines, Les Caves de Pyrene, Ottolenghi, Vini Italiani

94
❦
Who would have thought that a defiantly tannic orange wine made
with 30 days of maceration would triumph in this tasting? Yet

In a comprehensive and landmark tasting, Decanter’s expert panel blind triumph it did, proving that Malvasia di Candia Aromatica (the POINTS
tasted 122 natural wines from all corners of the globe. Here they name dominant variety here) takes to skin contact like bees to a
their top wine as well as 10 personal favourites, after Simon Woolf honeypot. La Stoppa’s 50-hectare organic estate in Emilia-Romagna has
explains how we define this niche but exciting wine category been established for more than a century, with the enigmatic Elena
Pantaleoni its grande dame for the past 23 years. She prefers the term
‘artisanal’ to the more nebulous ‘natural’ for her wines.
The time for denial or protest is over it, partly in an attempt to limit the growing network of fairs, merchants,
– we can safely retire that old adverse effects of their sometimes wine bars and sommeliers who on Simon Woolf A full-bodied, spicy and honeyed wine with camomile and thyme
chestnut, ‘there’s no such thing as over-enthusiastic levels of consumption. occasion display a semi-religious zeal.
notes leading to a thrilling palate with serious grip. Somehow more than the sum of
natural wine, it would just be vinegar’ Their now-seminal work influenced Key proponents include US writer
as the facile pedantry it always was. the ‘gang of five’, a group of Beaujolais- Alice Feiring, UK importer Les Caves
its parts, which are 60% Malvasia di Candia Aromatica with Ortrugo and Trebbiano.
Natural wine is here to stay as a small based winemakers lead by Marcel de Pyrene (behind the Real Wine Fair Andrew Jefford The full orange in colour. Perfumed, haunting aromas of rose and
but significant niche; the agitator that Lapierre. They felt that better terroir in the UK) and French Master of Wine musk with some pineapple fruit. Full of deep, pure, head-turning flavours,
keeps the wine world on its toes, the expression could be achieved by Isabelle Legeron. The latter’s RAW wine
modulating from rosewater charm through apple-orchard fruit to textured, bitter-
logical development of a back-to-the- following Chauvet’s methods – only fair has become one of the biggest
roots movement that began with wild yeasts, semi-carbonic maceration events in the natural wine calendar, edged asperity at the very end. Very clean and pristine. Truly a white with the
organic agriculture’s popularisation and no sulphur dioxide. and is fast becoming a global event. structure of a red, so it has fine meal-time aptitude and dazzling, compelling
in the 1970s. Some parts of the flavours, too. An outstanding effort.
How can we define natural conventional wine world have
wine? Does it even need to be ‘They are as diverse, irrepressible issues with the niche. Natural
Sarah Jane Evans MW A riper style that is full of energy and laden with oranges and
defined and how can we say if wines can be hugely variable, rhubarb. Notes of cinnamon and ginger come through on the memorable finish.
it’s good or not? These are the and idiosyncratic as the growers from cloudy, pungent and Drink 2017-2020 Alcohol 13.5% ➢
relevant questions now. This divisive to pure, light and joyful.
first-of-its-kind tasting is a bid who produce them’ They are as diverse,
to tackle these questions. irrepressible and idiosyncratic
Nomenclature always throws up As the movement gained as the growers who produce them.
challenges. ‘Natural wine’ is a term of momentum, its manifesto broadened This has led some to assert that the Decanter’s natural wine charter
convenience; two simple words to into the counter-response to an wines are faulty, atypical or lacking in
describe a complex, sprawling ideology over-industrialised, post-war wine terroir – that very quality often touted As there is no strict definition of ‘natural author and consultant on organic, • Hand-harvested only
that includes organic and biodynamic industry, and US critic Robert Parker’s as the raison d’être. True or not, there wine’, deciding the entry criteria for biodynamic and sustainable viticulture; • Fermentation with indigenous (wild)
viticulture, minimal intervention in supposed ideal of over-concentrated, are good and bad winemakers in this samples for this tasting was not easy. and Simon Woolf, a writer who specialises yeasts
the winery, and sometimes radical over-oaked fruit bombs. Natural category as with any other. To help, we sought advice from in organic, biodynamic and natural wines. • No enzymes
views on sulphur dioxide. winemakers seek a return to more Ultimately, natural wines must be members of the industry noted for their After collating the responses, we • No additives added (such as acid,
How and why the movement honest practices in both vineyard and judged on their own terms. At their expertise in natural wines: Doug Wregg came up with our own Decanter charter tannin, colouring) other than SO2
developed is a story that hails from winery, the goal to make wine with no best, they are refreshing in their from UK importer/retailer Les Caves de of quality for natural wines which we • SO2 levels no higher than 70mg/l total
the 1980s in Morgon, Beaujolais. other input than grapes. Sustainability clarity and disarming in their honesty. Pyrene, which is behind The Real Wine used as a basis for entry: • Unfined, and no (or light) filtration
Winemaker and intellectual Jules and integrity are the major themes. They force us to rethink attitudes, to Fair; Isabelle Legeron MW, the creator of • Vineyards farmed organically or • No other heavy manipulation (such as
Chauvet and his colleague Jacques Natural wine has developed as a recalibrate tired palates, to focus on the RAW wine fairs in London, New York biodynamically – certification was spinning cone, reverse osmosis,
Néauport researched and refined counter-culture. From Paris’s ‘caves au enjoyment and drinkability. In a world and Berlin; David Harvey of UK shipper strongly preferred, but uncertified wines cryoextraction, rapid-finishing,
methods of making wine without vins naturelles’ to hip new venues in full of homogeneity and blandness, and retailer Raeburn; Monty Waldin, were accepted Ultraviolet C irradiation)
added sulphur dioxide, as legend has London and New York, there’s a fast there is surely no better antidote.

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 natural wine

Simon Woolf’s top 10 picks from the tasting

5
Vodopivec, Vitovska, Friuli-Venezia
Giulia, Italy 2010 95 5
I wasn’t looking for any This tasting was hugely enjoyable for its £45.35 Buon Vino, Christopher Keiller, Les
particular style or flavour range of styles, countries and winemaking Caves de Pyrene, Noble Fine Liquor
profile in this tasting; techniques. That said, it was challenging to Understated aromatics of jasmine and exotic fruits
there is no such a thing as apply objective judging standards across such intermingle with baked apple and plum skin. It has
a ‘template’ for natural a disparate set of wines. Nonetheless, those fine tannins and an engaging citrus undertone.
wines. I was delighted at bottles which rose to the top all had Very well integrated and complete; a lot of
the overall high quality of something individual and exciting to say. They refinement here. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 12.5%

6
winemaking evident, and were wines that succeeded on their own terms
the lack of obvious faults. – surely the point of the exercise here. Batič, Angel, Kakovostno,
While I’m a strong proponent of minimal Slovenia 2011 94
6
intervention, organics and biodynamics, I’m £35 Pacta Connect
no lover of excess brettanomyces (brett), ‘The bottles which rose to Simon Woolf is an A wine full of ripe, buttery, baked
volatile acidity or unintended oxidation. Only award-winning apple, ginger and caramel aromas. There is
two of 122 wines tasted had a hint of the top all had something writer, columnist not a whole lot of fruit on the palate, but
mousiness, my bête noire (not to be confused and specialist in the texture is full, creamy and certainly
with brett, although the two often cohabit). individual and exciting to say’ natural wines hedonistic. Drink 2017-2018 Alc 13%

1 7
Valdonica, Ballarino, Vermentino, Tuscany, Domaine des Cognettes, Sélection,
Italy 2012 98 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie, Loire,
1 7
£25 Burgess & Hall, Red Squirrel, Twenty One Wines France 2015 94
Characterful dried apricot, hay and dried herbs £11-£11.99 Roberson, The Wine Reserve
combine with a wonderful waxiness that adds Ripe and lively, this Muscadet is showing delicious
interest. An assertive but beautifully balanced pear and green melon with a complementary leesy
wine, nicely developed and pure to the last. note that rounds out the texture and gives it a
Drink 2017-2022 Alc 13.5% refined finish. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 12%

2 8
Meinklang, Graupert, Grauburgunder, Marc Kreydenweiss, Riesling,
Austria 2015 96 Grand Cru Kastelberg, Alsace,
2 £17.50-£28 The Winemakers Club, Vintage 8 France 2012 94
Roots, WoodWinters £35.99 Champagnes & Châteaux
Succulent and perfumed with a tantalising Delightful acidity gives way to pleasing
melange of white raspberry and spiced rhubarb. sweetness and some waxy, spiced notes. It has a
Luxuriant in texture, it is beautifully restrained with hint of rubber but it is very balanced nonetheless.
a long, fine finish. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13% Drink 2017-2022 Alc 13.5%

3 9
Foradori, Fontanasanta, Manzoni Guerila, Pinela, Vipavska Dolina,
Bianco, Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Trentino- Primorska, Slovenia 2015 93
Alto Adige, Italy 2015 95 3 £11.66-£12.99 Alliance Wine, Carruthers & 9
£20.63-£23 AG Wines, Exel, Les Caves de Kent, Connolly’s, Hay Wines, Iron & Rose, The
Pyrene, Noble Fine Liquor, Vin Cognito Fine Wine Co, The Solent Cellar, Yield N16
This is showing candied pears and jasmine flowers Perfumed wild strawberry scents exude from the
in a youthful, stylish way. It is light-framed, but with glass, with subtle notes of earth and spice. It has
persistence and texture. A very feminine style in quite low acidity but this is charming and rather
the best possible sense. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 12.5% fun. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 12.5%

4 10
Maria & Sepp Muster, Gräfin, Domaine Lafran-Veyrolles, Cuvée
Südsteiermark, Austria 2013 95 Spéciale, Bandol, France 2011 96
4 £27.66-£31.99 Exel, Les Caves de Pyrene 10 £21.89-£25 All About Wine, Simply
A light-framed Sauvignon Blanc with Wines Direct
a wonderful nuttiness and structure, herby Subtle aromas of meat and red fruit at first, leading
aromatics and a very elegant body, if finishing to fresh and lively notes of cream and vanilla.
slightly short. Drink 2017-2023 Alc 13% This has delicacy and complexity and is really quite
thrilling. Still super-youthful. Drink 2017-2018
Alc 14.5% ➢

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 natural wine

Andrew Jefford’s top 10 picks from the tasting

5
Alfredo Arribas, 4 Gotes, Priorat, Spain 2015 93
£12.30 Genesis Wines
5
My aim with this tasting
was to maintain as open
I don’t, however, share any of the ideological
tenets of the movement, so I didn’t feel that
‘I’m convinced 100% Garnacha, of four different types. Clean
and fresh on the nose but relatively unfocused,
a palate as possible, to
enjoy whatever struck me
the wines were ‘better’ for me, ‘healthier’ or
more virtuous. Definitions and norms for what
we will see though there is a sense of earthy, liquorice refinement.
More in the offing than in the glass right now, however the
as appealing, and to
describe those wines with
may or may not be added are important if the
trust of natural wine consumers is not to be
more wine palate is bright, acidic, stony and spicy – a tumbling
mountain stream of purity and freshness, which is pretty
enthusiasm. abused, and they are wanting at present. made in this good going for Priorat. Drink 2017-2021 Alc 13.5%

6
It’s impossible to ignore I didn’t look for typicity, since the typicity of
the extent to which this
line of experimental enquiry is stimulating
wines made in this way is different from that of
conventionally made equivalents. Comparing
way in future’ Famille Ilbert, Château Combel-la-Serre,
Les Peyres Levades, Cahors, France 2014 93
6
and intriguing even ‘conventional’ producers, the results of this tasting with the last time I £37.99 Burgess & Hall, Red Squirrel, Unwined Tooting
so I’m convinced we will see more wine made took part in one of this nature suggested to me A pure charmer from Cahors: lifted, fresh
in this way in future; I’m also convinced that that natural winemakers’ skill is improving. cherry-damson scents with an almost creamy amplitude
the success rate of natural wines will steadily to the fruit. Weighty and full in the mouth, this is very
improve. This tasting, indeed, contained fewer Andrew Jefford is a Decanter contributing editor primary, fruit-forward and absolutely jumping with
repellent wines than I had expected. and the Roederer International Columnist of 2016 juiciness. Just a faint touch of grassiness, but for many
that would add to the freshness. Drink 2017-2021 Alc 13%

1 7
Waterkloof, Circumstance Chardonnay, Frank Cornelissen, Munjebel VA, Sicily, Italy
Stellenbosch, South Africa 2016 93 2014 93
1 7
£15.99 Boutinot, WoodWinters £44-£45 Raeburn, Vini Italiani
Green-silver in colour, this is graceful, fresh, poised 100% Nerello Mascalese. Soft, raisiny fruits with a
and restrained. It is elegant with lots of grain, understated musky grace and orange peel and blossom charm. I love
creaminess and light summer-fruit flesh. Real finesse and the combination of tannins and perfume, and there is just
exemplary balance too. An outstanding Chardonnay enough limpid, translucent cherry-plum fruit to fill in the
which seems a world apart from the ‘natural wine’ mid-palate. The only hesitation is the almost fizzy style of
caricature. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 12.5% acidity; drink soonish. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 14.5%

2 8
Intellego, The Story of Harry, Swartland, Pierre Morin, Sancerre, Loire, France 2013 93
South Africa 2016 92 £18 Roberson
2 8
£23-£25.85 Exel, Les Caves de Pyrene There are excellent aromas here: a lovely surge
A 100% Chenin Blanc that is a long way from the of refined cherry making it graceful, pure and
‘natural wine’ cliché. Lemon chiffon and crème anglaise enchanting. Smooth, lively and curranty on the palate,
aroma then a poised, fresh, graceful and diverting palate with some tannin support that makes it a good food wine.
of great harmony and impressive subtlety leading to a Very true to its origins; that northerly freshness is very
tender finish. No sense of under-ripeness, despite the low Sancerre. Really outstanding work here. Drink 2017-2021
alcohol from a hot vineyard site. Drink 2017-2018 Alc 11% Alc 13%

3 9
Gratavinum, Silvestris, Priorat, Spain 2015 94 Domaine Sainte Croix, Carignan, Vin de France
£33 Top Selection 2013 92
85% Garnacha, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. A nose 3 £13.99-£16 Cambridge Wine Merchants, The Fine Wine 9
of billowing primary fruit: rich plums with a floral Importers
back note, as if you can smell the blossom that brought Slightly dry, cardboard aromas clear to something more
the plums into being. The palate has intense, dramatic sherbet-like. It is an intense, acidic and attractive wine on
fruits with the fresh, primal intensity the nose sketched the palate, with purity and drama. The best perfumes come
out. The acidity is high and thrusting with grippy tannins after you swallow: bright elderberry and plum. Impressive
to finish. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 14.5% once it’s had air. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 14.5%

4 10
Occhipinti, Siccagno Nero d’Avola, Sicily, Mas del Périé, Amphore, Cahors, France
Italy 2013 94 2014 92
4 £23-£24.18 AG Wines, Exel, Les Caves de Pyrene 10 £30-£40 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Carte
There is real fine-fruited complexity here: Blanche, The Sampler
fragrant cherry, plum and cranberry, with a furniture Sterling aromas with a lovely floral lift to the red fruits
polish note too, which is very Italian. Concentrated and here. Lots of fragrant charm and purity. Vivid, fresh, lively,
poised on the palate, it has that perfect focus natural clean lines to this wine; fine definition to the cherry-plum
wines are so often said to have, with barely any tannin or fruit, with some crushed cherry kernel bitterness behind.
extractive force. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 13% Super wine. Drink 2017-2021 Alc 13.5% ➢

72 | M a y 2017 • D E C A N T E R For full details of UK stockists, see p105 For full details of UK stockists, see p105 D E C A N T E R • M a y 2017 | 73
 natural wine

Sarah Jane Evans MW’s top 10 picks from the tasting

5
Asensio Carcelén, 100x100
Monastrell, Jumilla, Spain 2014 92
5
A tasting like this is a energy and freshness. Only seven wines scored £9.50 Bodega Soul
pleasure. I’m not looking lower than 82 points – my personal no-no This has glorious mulberry aromas
to finesse differences in being those that appear to be still fermenting. singing of hot Jumilla vineyards. It is supple,
vineyard sites. Instead, I was hoping to assess the effects of the fleshy and powerfully fruity, with a line of
with diverse (mainly containers used for winemaking. However tannin and acidity to refresh. Rustic and rogue.
European) wines, my aim there were not enough concrete egg or Drink 2017-2023 Alc 15.5%
is enjoyment, finding amphora examples to draw conclusions. If one

6
individual wines I can aspect surprised me, though, it was those
confidently share with winemakers who masked the naturalness of Calabretta, Cappuccio, Sicilia,
friends. Importantly, as it’s a blind tasting, their wines with dominant barrels. Such Italy 2010 92
6
there’s less chance of a wine scoring well just liveliness drowns in new oak. £27 Raeburn
because it’s famous in the natural wine world.  Gloriously aromatic, with red
Given the often heated, divisive debate Sarah Jane Evans cherries and violets. It is positively bursting
around these wines, I was pleased to find ‘My top wines were full of MW is a co-Chair with cherry fruit and is superbly expressive,
plenty to recommend, scoring 32 wines 90 of the Decanter helped by a fine grip of tannin and a long,
points or more. My top wines were full of energy and freshness’ Word Wine Awards crisp finish. Still a teenager, even at seven
years of age. Drink 2017-2023 Alc 12%

1 7
Batič, Zaria, Vipavska Dolina, Primorska, Domaine de L’R, Le Canal des Grands
Slovenia 2009 93 Pièces, Chinon, Loire, France 2015 92
1 7
£37.50 Pacta Connect £15 Carte Blanche
Pinela-based blend. This has a burnished 100% Cabernet Franc. There’s a tart edge
apricot colour in the glass and wafting, smoky to this, like sour cherries or cranberries. Generally
aromatics. It is a really interesting wine in an supple in the mouth with a light rasp of tannin. Not
oxidative style, full of roasted almonds, burnt entirely integrated yet, but it has a fine structure.
caramel, golden peach, plus thyme and fennel. Memorably long. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 12%
Drink 2017-2022 Alc 12.5%

2 8
Cotar, Malvazija, Karst, Slovenia Le Due Terre, Sacrisassi, Friuli Colli
2014 92 Orientali, Friuli-Venezia Giulia,
2 8
£31 Indigo Wine, Tannico Italy 2014 92
A brilliantly vivid attack starts us N/A UK +39 0432 713 189
off, with darts of Seville orange flavours. A blend of Refosco and Schioppettino. This is
This really is a wine on steroids and shows brightly Italian in its acidity and dark fruit gives an
what Malvasia can do when well made. edge of bitterness. The palate is rich, warm and
Drink 2017-2023 Alc 12% dense, with a savoury edge to it. Lingering, fleshy
and memorable. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 13.5%

3 9
Terroir Al Límit, Terra de Cuques, Reyneke, Organic Syrah,
Priorat, Spain 2014 92 Stellenbosch, South Africa 2015 92
3 9
£26.50 Cru World Wine, Indigo Wine £16.75 Halisham Cellars, Wines with
80% Pedro Ximénez with Muscat Attitude
d’Alexandria. A deep golden colour, with jasmine A rich, dense Syrah with white pepper and
and roses on the nose. A full-bodied wine that is lemon juice characters. Charcoal and mocha
fleshy and lively with a lift of acidity and a spicy undertones come through on the long,
tone. Mineral, with a strong stony finish. impressive finish. Drink 2017-2023 Alc 13%
Drink 2017-2020 Alc 12%

4 10
Andreas Gsellmann, Exempel Quartz Reef, Bendigo Estate,
Chardonnay, Weinland, Austria 2015 91 Single Ferment Pinot Noir, Central
4 POA Connolly’s 10 Otago, New Zealand 2015 91
Very fragrant for Chardonnay, this wine £55 Majestic, WoodWinters
is flooded with citrus, lime and marmalade and Intensely aromatic! Roses, violet and raspberries
ends on a savoury, salty, complex finish. spring to mind. It is full-bodied and generously
Drink 2017-2022 Alc 12.5% fruity while also being light and lively. Not the most
complex wine, but very likeable. Drink 2017-2021
Alc 14%

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