Guidebook Appendix PDF
Uploaded by
Jorge FeriaGuidebook Appendix PDF
Uploaded by
Jorge FeriaHA LONG BAY CLIMBING
Collected material from Ha Long Bay
climbing pioneers and ongoing developments.
2 INTRODUCTION
In the summer of 2015, Asia Outdoors Asia Outdoors welcomes suggestions,
began compiling a new rock climbing critiques or new material to add to this
guide for Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha Bay and document. Please direct any corre-
Cat Ba Island. The author and edi- spondence to:
tors soon realised including all known [email protected]
developed areas would require more
than one book. Concerns were also Photo credits: If not specified other-
raised regarding inclusion of areas with wise, photos are taken by climbers
old, deeply corroded bolts and anchors. listed as the sector’s FA.
Ultimately, a decision was made to
include Sport Climbing and DWS areas
easily reached as part of a one-day
excursion from Cat Ba Island.
This raised a question regarding what
to do with notes concerning many other
crags throughout Ha Long Bay. Instead
of simply archiving history and beta, all
additional known crag information was
compiled into a single PDF to be made
freely available.
This document contains all the infor-
mation gathered through the process Asia Outdoors | Luca De Giorgi
of building the 2016 Asia Outdoors HA LONG BAY CLIMBING
rock climbing guidebook that was not A rock climbing and deep water soloing
ultimately included in the book. guide of Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha Bay and Cat Ba Island
Crags contained in this document have
been bolted over the years by various
individuals and expeditions. Some
crags’ names have been updated, with
To find out more about the Asia Outdoors
consultation, due to confusion created rock climbing guidebook, visit:
by duplicate names or new information www.asiaoutdoors.com.vn
regarding location. These include
Jellyfish Crag/All Swell That End Swell,
Chopstick Island/The Corkscrew, and
Polish Pillar/Hon Dua.
Many crags need rebolting before
being safe to climb again. Please be
aware that, for some of these areas,
there is very little information recorded.
Therefore, this document may contain
errors.
ASIA OUTDOORS GUIDEBOOK 3
The 2016 Asia Outdoors climbing - Streak of Lightning
guidebook contains detailed information 1 climb, 7c
about sport climbing and DWS in the - Dark Horse
following areas on Cat Ba Island and in 15 climbs, 4 to 7b
the surrounding bays: - Calvin Climb
5 climbs, 5a to 7c
DEEP WATER SOLOING: - Cathedral Rock
- Hawaii 5-0 11 climbs, 4+ to 7c
13 climbs, 5c to 7b - 400 Fahrenheit
- Crag X 19 climbs, 5+ to 7c
5 climbs, 6a to 6c
- Three Brothers SPORT CLIMBING ON CAT BA:
17 climbs, 4+ to 7c - Butterfly Valley.
- Tung Thit 50 climbs, 4+ to 8a
16 climbs, 6a to 7b - The Cave
- Jellyfish Wall 6 climbs, 5c to 7a
15 climbs, 4+ to 7a - The Farm
- Andy Cave 8 climbs, 5b to 7b
9 climbs, 6a to 6c - Ben Beo
- Never Never Land 10 climbs, 6a to 7c
13 climbs, 5 to 7c
- Jurassic Park SPORT CLIMBING IN THE BAY:
7 climbs, 5 to 7c - Moody Beach
- Unemployment Wall 6 climbs, 4+ to 6b
8 climbs, 6a to 7b - Tiger Beach
- Hon Dua 13 climbs, 5b to 7c
7 climbs, 5c to 7a - Pirate’s Belly
- Pyramid Cave 3 climbs, 5b-7a
7 climbs, 6a to 7c - The Face
- Stingray Wall 3 climbs, 7a to 7c
12 climbs, 5b to 7b - Amphitheatre
- Bond Bastic 6 climbs, 6a to 8a
5 climbs, 6b to 7b - Saigon Wall
- Band Tastic 3 climbs, 7a
5 climbs, 6a to 7b - Jules Verne’s World
- Hang Ha Cave 4 climbs, 7a to 8a
10 climbs, 5a to 7b - Polish Pillar
- Le Mekong 1947 3 climbs, 6a to 7c
9 climbs, 6b to 7c
- Fishermen’s Way
8 climbs, 5c to 7b
- Gingerbread
11 climbs, 5 to 6c
- Monster Face
3 climbs, 7a to 7b
4 DISCLAIMER
Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous
sport. Your use of this document indicates
your understanding of the risk of serious injury
or death as a result of rock climbing or deep
water soloing and is an acknowledgement
of your responsibility for your own climbing
safety while climbing in Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha
bay, and Cat Ba Island.
This document only provides information
about climbs in the area. It is not an
instructional book and cannot replace proper
training by a qualified teacher.
The author, editors, and Asia Outdoors accept
no liability for injuries, death, or damage
caused to or by climbers or any third party.
Please use the information in this document
in conjunction with your personal judgment
and experience. Also note that the content
of this book is approximated and may not be
verified, accurate, or up to date. We strongly
recommend climbers visit the Asia Outdoors
office for up to date information on climbing
areas and routes.
By using this document and the information
it contains, you agree to everything written in
this disclaimer.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 5
Thanks to the climbing pioneers, who put Ha
Long Bay on climbers maps and contributed
to research for the present document: Lee
Cujes, Dave Lucas, Greg Child, Lynn Hill, Neil
Gresham, Scott Milton, Tim Emmett, Helmut
Gargitter, Michael Thaler, Peter Braito, Chris
Johnson, Jean Verly and to all the other
passionate climbers who explored Ha Long
Bay.
My excuses and thanks to all those I am
forgetting to mention here.
6
31
1
32
3
4
5 6
7
8
10
11
12
13 14
15
16
17
18
19 20
21
27
22
23
25 24
28 29
30
26
2015 Google Earth map data: Google, DigitalGlobe,
CNES/Astrium, TerraMetrics.
INDEX 7
1. LUY TAM BIET (DAU GO ARCA)
5 sport climbs, 6b to 7b.
2. HAI NON
6 sport climbs, 6a to 7b.
3. 400 FAHRENHEIT WALL
19 DWS lines, 5+ to 7c.
4. CATHEDRAL ROCK
9 DWS lines, 4+ to 7c.
5. SUPA TUFA WALL
5 DWS lines, 5+ to 7b.
6. DARK HORSE
15 DWS lines, 4+ to 7b.
7. KELVIN CLIMB 33
3 DWS lines, 6a to 7c.
8. CRUMBLE IN THE JUNGLE
5 DWS lines 5+ to 6c.
9. YEN NGUA (LULWORTH II)
2 DWS lines, 7b+
10. MONKEY CAVE
9 DWS lines, 5 to 7b.
11. TAXI GIRL (HANG TIEN ONG)
8 sport climbs, 6b to 8a.
12. SILVER CAVE (HANG TIEN ONG)
Several DWS lines, 6b and harder.
13. BOND BASTIC and HANC CA CAVE
9 DWS lines, 4+ to 7c.
14. MIKE AND EVA’S CAVE
3 DWS lines, 5+ to 6a.
15. HANG DU (TURTLE CAVE, ARCHWAY)
2 DWS lines, 7a to 7c.
16. WALHALL ISLAND
1 trad line, 60 m, Brit. E5 6b.
17. THE LAND THAT TIME FORGOT
6 DWS lines, 6a to 7b.
18. JURASSIC PARK
13 DWS lines, 5 to 7c.
19. CORKSCREW (CHOPSTICK ISLAND)
1 mixed line, 40 m, 5a
20. WITCHE’S NOSE
5 DWS lines, 6a to 7a.
21. TUNG THIT
16 climbs, 6a to 7b.
22. BIG BEN (TOWER OF PISA) 28. FISHERMAN’S WAY
3 trad lines, 4+ to 6a. 18 DWS lines, 5 to 7b.
23. VAN BOI TRUNG 29. SHALLOW GRAVE
5 sport lines, 5c to 6c. 2 DWS lines, 6a
24. THE BLACK SLAB 30. ALL SWELL THAT ENDS SWELL
1 trad line, 5a. 8 DWS lines, 5 to 7b
25. TIGER’S CORNER 31. CERRO TORRE
1 trad line, 5b. 13 sport climbs, 6a to 8a.
26. TON NUOC 32. LAUGHING DOG WALL
1 trad line, 6c. 22 sport climbs, 5b to 7c.
27. THE FACE 33. LA PLAGE DES PIRATES
3 climbs, 7a to 7c. 15 spot lines, 6a to 8a.
8 LUY TAM BIET (DAU GO ARCA)
GPS: 20°53’59.79”N 107° 1’9.65”E
1. Vampire State Building 6a, 6c, 7b
2. Eliza.kom 6c+
3. Shaman the Great, 7a
4. Bum Bum Massage, 6b
5. Miss Halong, 7a+, Helmut Gargitter, Thaler Michael, Bartholomäus Rindler, 2005
Source: Grimper no. 81, http://www.grimper.com/mag-grimper-81
9
Above left: Greg
Child in Luy Tam Biet,
source: ‘The Face, six
great climbing adven-
tures’, BBC, Richard
Else and Brian Hall
Above right: Helmut
Gargitter in Luy Tam
Biet, source: Helmut
Gargitter.
Left: Lut Tam Biet
Wall, source: Pano-
ramio.
10 HAI NON
GPS: 20°52’19.55”N 107° 2’33.96”E
Sport climbing at low tide.
1. Three-pitch climb (6a+, 6c+, 6b+)
2. Five single pitch sport climbs from 6a+ to 7b
Hard grading and sparsely bolted
By M. Thaler, B. Rindler und H. Gargitter in 2005
Source: Michael Thaler
2
1
11
12 400 FAHRENHEIT AREA
Climbing on 400° Fahrenheit was first recorded in 2012 by Dave Lucas and the
Expedition Consultancy. First recorded ascents by: Alex Twist, Dave Lucas, Dan
Webber, Sam Harvie, Vu Nguyen and Ruth Murdie.
400°$Fahrenheit$Area$
!
Aspect! ! ! ! 400!faces!east!and!Cathedral!rock!faces!NE!
!
Tidal$considerations! There!is!loads!of!water!under!400!and!is!a!better!wall!at!low!tide!as!the!routes!are!
extended.!This!is!why!some!of!the!routes!have!grade!at!low!tide!(LT)!and!high!tide!
(HT).! Cathedral! does! have! a! shelf! and! depth! needs! to! be! checked! if! climbing! at!
medium!to!low!tide.! !
! !
Grade$overview!
Location$!! ! ! 5+!–!7c+!
! 400°!Fahrenheit!wall! 20°51'46.50"N! ! 107°!3'10.97"E!
! ! ! ! ! Cathedral!Rock! ! 20°51'38.90"N! ! 107°!3'16.19"E!
The$routes$
!
!
400°$Fahrenheit$wall!
24. Flambé! ! ! HT! **! 6c! 14m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!
LT! **! 6c+! 16m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
25. Fire!&!Rice!! ! HT! *! 6b! 14m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!
26. Molten!brambly!apple! HT!! ! 6b+! 9m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!
27. Lava!Falls!! ! LT! ***! 6c!! 16m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!
28. Lava!Java! ! LT! *! 7a! 16m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!
29. That’s!not!a!burning!bush! LT! *! 6a! 16m!! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
30. Sun!Scream! ! HT! ! 6b! 14m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
31. Ban!Marie! ! ! ***! 6b+/6c! 16m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!
32. Thrush! ! ! HT! *! 7a! 12m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
Scratching!the!itch! LT! **! Project!! 16m!
33. Toasty! ! ! LT! ***! 7a+/7b! 16m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!
N/B!try!the!bread!and!cheese!dyno!start!(Vu!Nguyen)!
34. Crème!brûlée! ! LT! **! 7a+! 11m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!
HT! ! 7a!
35. Pop!Tart!! ! LT! ***! 7a+! 14m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!
36. Ring!of!fire! ! HT! ***! 7c+! 14m! Vu!Nguyen! ! 19/11/12!
37. To!the!shrubbery!and!beyond.! **! 7a! 14m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12! 28
38. I!poke!badgers!with!hot!spoons.! *! 7b! 11m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!
39. Baked!Alaska.! ! ! *! 6a! 10m! Ruth!Murdie! ! 19/11/12!
40. Vanuatu.! ! ! ! 5+! 10m! Ruth!Murdie! ! 20/11/12!
!
! 41. I!fight!cats!in!flaming!loincloths.! ! 6b+! 7m! Sam!Harvie! ! 20/11/12!
42. Goat!man! !
Grade$overview! ! 5+!–!7c+!
! ! 6b! 8m! Dan!Webber! ! 20/11/12!
! !
Cathedral$Rock$
The$routes$
! 1. Fragile!Earth! ! ! ! 4+!S1! 8m! Ruth!Murdie! ! 20/11/12!
2. The!church!mouse!!
400°$Fahrenheit$wall! ! *! 6a!S1! 6m! Ruth!Murdie! ! 20/11/12!
3. 24.Evolution!
Flambé! ! ! ! !! HT! ***!
**! 7c!6c! 8m!
14m! Charles!Darwin!
Alex!Twist! !! 20/11/12!
19/11/12!
4. Intelligent!design!! ! LT! ***!
**! 7a!!
6c+! 16m!16m! Chris!Hitchens!
Dave!Lucas! !! 20/11/12!
19/11/12!
5. 25.Leap!from!faith!
Fire!&!Rice!! ! ! ! HT! ***!
*! 7a!
6b! 15m!
14m! Alex!Twist!
Dan!Webber! ! ! 20/11/12!
19/11/12!
6. 26.Higgs!Boson! !
Molten!brambly!apple! ! HT!! **!! 7a!
6b+! 15m!!
9m! Prof!Brian!Cox!
Alex!Twist! !! 20/11/12!
19/11/12!
7. 27.The!Godfather!
Lava!Falls!! ! ! ! LT! *!***! 7a! 6c!! 14m!
16m! Alex!Twist!
Dan!Webber! ! ! 20/11/12!
19/11/12!
8. 28.The!God!Delusion!
Lava!Java! ! ! ! LT! **!*! 7a!
7a! 15m!
16m! Richard!Dawkins!
Alex!Twist! !! 20/11/12!
19/11/12!
9. 29.I!have!more!faith!in!a!shadow!
That’s!not!a!burning!bush! LT! ! *! 6b!
6a! 12m!
16m!! Ferdinand!Magellan!
Dave!Lucas! ! 20/11/12!
19/11/12!
30.The!route!goes!up!dirty!corner!right!of!line!on!topo!and!then!steps!round!the!arête.!
Sun!Scream! ! HT! ! 6b! 14m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
! 31. Ban!Marie! ! ! ***! 6b+/6c! 16m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!
extended.!This!is!why!some!of!the!routes!have!grade!at!low!tide!(LT)!and!high!tide!
(HT).! Cathedral! does! have! a! shelf! and! depth! needs! to! be! checked! if! climbing! at!
medium!to!low!tide.!
! 13
Location$!! ! ! 400°!Fahrenheit!wall! 20°51'46.50"N! ! 107°!3'10.97"E!
! ! ! ! Cathedral!Rock! ! 20°51'38.90"N! ! 107°!3'16.19"E!
!
!
!
Grade$overview! ! 5+!–!7c+!
!
The$routes$
!
400°$Fahrenheit$wall!
24. Flambé! ! ! HT! **! 6c! 14m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!
LT! **! 6c+! 16m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
25. Fire!&!Rice!! ! HT! *! 6b! 14m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!
26. Molten!brambly!apple! HT!! ! 6b+! 9m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!
27. Lava!Falls!! ! LT! ***! 6c!! 16m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!
28. Lava!Java! ! LT! *! 7a! 16m! Alex!Twist! ! 19/11/12!
29. That’s!not!a!burning!bush! LT! *! 6a! 16m!! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
30. Sun!Scream! ! HT! ! 6b! 14m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
31. Ban!Marie! ! ! ***! 6b+/6c! 16m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!
32. Thrush! ! ! HT! *! 7a! 12m! Dave!Lucas! ! 19/11/12!
Scratching!the!itch! LT! **! Project!! 16m!
33. Toasty! ! ! LT! ***! 7a+/7b! 16m! Sam!Harvie! ! 19/11/12!
N/B!try!the!bread!and!cheese!dyno!start!(Vu!Nguyen)!
34. Crème!brûlée! ! LT! **! 7a+! 11m! Dan!Webber! ! 19/11/12!
HT! ! 7a!
28
14
!
15
!
400° FAHRENHEIT
1. FLAMBÉ - 6c (HT); 6c+ (LT)
2. FIRE AND RICE - 6b (HT)
3. MOLTEN BRAMBLY APPLE - 6b+ (HT)
4. LAVA FALLS - 6c (LT)
5. LAVA JAVA - 7a (LT)
6. THAT’S NOT A BURNING BUSH - 6a (LT)
7. SUN SCREAM - 6b (HT)
8. BAN MARIE - 6b+/6c
9. THRUSH - 7a (HT)
10. TOASTY - 7a+/7b (LT)
11. CRÈME BRÛLÉE - 7a+ (LT); 7a (HT)
12. POP TART - 7a+ (LT)
13. RING OF FIRE - 7c+ (HT)
14. TO THE SHRUBBERY AND BEYOND - 7a
15. I POKE BADGERS WITH HOT SPOONS - 7b
16. BAKED ALASKA - 6a
17. VANUATU - 5+
18. I FIGHT CATS IN FLAMING LOINCLOTHS - 6b+
19. GOAT MAN - 6b
16 CATHEDRAL ROCK (Lion’s Face)
Climbing on Cathedral Rock, aka Lion’s Face, was first recorded
by Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Grant Farquhar, and Seb Grieve in
2003. The crag was further explored in 2012 by Dave Lucas and The
Expedition Consultancy. First recorded ascents by: Neil Gresham,
Tim Emmett, Seb Grieve, Ruth Murdie, Charles Darwin, Alex Twist,
and Ferdinand Magellan.
GPS: 20°51’38.90”N 107° 3’16.19”E
1. FRAGILE EARTH - 4+ 8. THE QUIET AMERICAN - 6b+
2. THE CHURCH MOUSE - 6a aka God Delusion
A. ZARATHUSTRA - 7c+ B. GOLDEN TRIANGLE - 7a
3. EVOLUTION - 7c 9. I HAVE MORE FAITH IN A SHADOW - 6b
4. ARACHNOPHOBIA - 7b
aka Intelligent Design.
5. TARANTULA - 7b
aka Leap of Faith.
6. TUG BOAT - 7a
aka Higgs Boson.
7. EYELESS IN CAT BA - 6c
aka The Godfather.
A
!
! 17
!
B
!
18 SUPA TUFA WALL
Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.
Supa$Tufa$Wall$
!
Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!east!and!is!not!exposed!to!swell.!
!
Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!it!becomes!hard!to!access!at!
lower!tides.!
!
Location$!! ! ! 20°51'16.27"N! 107°!5'50.85"E! !
! ! ! ! !
Grade$overview!
! ! 6a!–!7a/b!!
!
The$routes$
1. Sinner!Man! ! ! ! **! 6a+! 17m! Sam!Harvie! 18/11/12!
2. Supa!Tufa!! ! ! ! ***! 6a! 15m! Dan!Webber! 18/11/12!
3. Great!Expectations! ! ! *! 5+! 16m! Alex!Twist! 18/11/12!
4. Vavavuum! ! ! ! **! 7a! 17m! Vu!Nguyen! 18/11/12!
$
5. Oven!dish! ! ! ! *! 7a/b! 17m! Sam!Harvie! 18/11/12!
!
$
8
!
!
Grade$overview! ! 6a!–!7a/b!!
!
The$routes$
1. Sinner!Man! ! ! ! **! 6a+! 17m! Sam!Harvie! 18/11/12!
2. Supa!Tufa!! ! ! ! ***! 6a! 15m! Dan!Webber! 18/11/12!
3. Great!Expectations! ! ! *! 5+! 16m! Alex!Twist! 18/11/12!
4. Vavavuum! ! ! ! **! 7a! 17m! Vu!Nguyen! 18/11/12!
5. Oven!dish! ! ! ! *! 7a/b! 17m! Sam!Harvie! 18/11/12!
!
!
19
20 DARK HORSE AREA
Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.
Dark$Horse$Area$
!
Aspect! ! ! ! Dark!Horse!! ! Faces!south.!
! ! ! ! Kelvin!Climb! ! Faces!northwest!through!to!northeast.!
! ! ! ! Crumble!in!the!Jungle$$ Faces!northwest.!
$
Tidal$considerations! All!should!be!considered!a!high!tide!crag,!but!can!be!managed!at!lower!tides!with!depth!
checking.!Be!aware!of!a!shelf!to!the!left!(when!facing)!of!Vajazzel!on!Kelvin!Climb.!
!
Location$!! ! ! Dark!Horse!! ! 20°50'11.95"N! 107°!6'39.55"E!
! ! ! ! Kelvin!Climb! ! 20°49'47.91"N! 107°!6'47.40"E!
! ! ! ! Crumble!in!the!Jungle! 20°49'43.77"N! 107°!6'46.23"E!
!
!
!
Grade$overview! ! 5!–!7c+!
!
The$routes$
!
Dark$Horse$
9. Captain! ! ! ! *! 6a+! 10m! Dan!Webber! 11/11/12!
10. GI!Joe! ! !! ! *! 6a! 10m! Alex!Twist! 11/11/12!
11. Buzz!Lightyear! !! ! ! 6a+! 10m! Sam!Harvie! 12/11/12!
12. Crescent!crack! ! ! *! 6a! 10m! Sam!Harvie! 11/11/12!
21
!
!
Grade$overview! ! 5!–!7c+!
!
The$routes$
!
Dark$Horse$
9. Captain! ! ! ! *! 6a+! 10m! Dan!Webber! 11/11/12!
10. GI!Joe! ! !! ! *! 6a! 10m! Alex!Twist! 11/11/12!
11. Buzz!Lightyear! !! ! ! 6a+! 10m! Sam!Harvie! 12/11/12!
12. Crescent!crack! ! ! *! 6a! 10m! Sam!Harvie! 11/11/12!
13. Stick!or!twist! ! ! **! 6c! 10m! Alex!Twist! 12/11/12!
Submerged!ledge!here!
14. Corner!Store! ! ! ! 6a+! 10m! Dave!Lucas! 12/11/12!
15. Arete.!don’t!shoot! ! **!! 6a+! 11m! Dave!Lucas! 11/12/12!
16. Photo!shoot! ! ! **! 6b! 14m! Dan!Webber! 12/11/12!
17. Cheat! ! ! ! *! 6b+! 8m! Sam!Harvie! 11/11/12!
18. Pré!Vu! ! ! ! ***! 7a+! 15m! Vu!Nguyen! 12/11/12!
19. Déjà!Vu! ! ! ! **! 7b+! 15m! Sam!Harvie! 12/11/12!
20. Dark!Horse! ! ! ***! 7a! 15m! Mike!Hutton! 12/11/12!
21. Leading!Line! ! ! **! 6a+! 30m! Dave!Lucas! 12/11/12!
22. Ivana!Humpalot! ! ! ! 4+! 12m! Eva!Rhode! 12/11/12!
23. Rovers!Return! ! ! ! 4!S1! 10m!Ruth!Murdie!! 12/11/12!
!
Crumble$in$the$jungle$
7. Crunch!your!nuts!! ! ! 6a! 8m! Russel! ! 12/11/12!
8. Cheerios!! ! ! ! 6a! 9m! Dan!Webber! 12/11/12!
9. Enema! ! ! ! ! 6a+! 12m! Sam!Harvie! 12/11/12!
10. Snap!crackle!and!plop! ! ! 6b! 14m! Dave!Lucas! 12/11/12!
11. Shredded!feet! ! ! ! 6c! 11m! Alex!Twist! 12/11/12!
12. Crunchy!! ! ! *!! 5+! 6m! Alex!Twist! 12/11/12!
13. Flake! ! ! ! ! 5+! 6m! Alex!Twist! 12/11/12!
14. Mike! ! ! ! ! 5! 6m!! Mike!Hutton! 12/11/12! !
!
Kelvin$Climb$
1. Vajazzel!! ! ! ! 6a! 9m! Eva!Rhode! 13/11/12!
2. Brazilian!! ! ! **! 6c! 9m! Dan!Webber! 13/11/12!
3. Kelvin!Climb! ! ! ***! 7c+! 9m! Vu!Nguyen! 13/11/12!
Extension!from!ledge!is!6b!for!a!further!12!m! Vu!Nguyen!13/11/12!
4. ?! Blue !Eyed Scissors,
! ! 5a ! ! 9m! Eva!Rhode! 13/11/12!
5. ?! Water! Monkey, ! 5a ! ! ! ?! Eva!Rhode! 13/11/12!
!
22
! $
$ $ $ $
23
$
$
24
4
5
$
$ $
25
26 YEN NGUA aka LULWORTH II
This crag was explored in 2003 by Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb
Grieve & Grant Farquhar.
GPS: 20°51’22.16”N 107° 6’11.76”E
1) Nietzche Had it, 7b+, Tim Emmett
2) Rockin the Cat Ba, 7b+, Neil Gresham
27
28 MONKEY CAVE
Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012
GPS: 20°49’33.03”N 107° 6’12.12”E
Monkey
Cave
GPS
Aspect
North
Tide
Climbable
only
at
high
tide
and
even
at
HT
water
depth
was
only
just
over
2.5m
in
depth.
Swell
Sheltered
but
prone
to
wash
from
speed
boats
Notes
Project
–
The
cave
lip
was
climbed
as
a
hand
traverse
from
left
to
right,
but
the
climber
stopped
5
moves
from
the
right
side
due
to
sharp
rock
the
climbing
to
that
point
was
graded
XXX.
Routes
1. Monkey
spunk
6a+
9m
16/11/14
Matthew
Kerfoot
2. Bab-‐BOOM
5+
11m
16/11/14
Dan
Webber
3. *Monkey
Around
5+
9m
16/11/14
Alex
Twist
4. Banana
Fingers
5+
9m
16/11/14
Jon
Thorne
5. Northern
Monkey
6b+
9m
16/11/14
Tom
Booth
6. **Monkey
See
Monkey
Vu
7b+
9m
16/11/14
Vu
Nguyen
7. *King
of
the
swingers
6a+
9m
16/11/14
Dan
Webber
8. 75
to
go
5
9m
16/11/14
Matthew
Kerfoot
9. Monkey
King
Baa
6a
9m
16/11/14
Thierry
Buermann
29
30 TAXI GIRL, HANG TIEN ONG
GPS: 20°48’59.00”N 107° 7’20.00”E
Source: Grimper no. 81,
www.grimper.com/mag-grimper-81
Source: Panoramio
31
32 BOND BASTIC
Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.
Hang$Ca$Cave$and$Bond$Bastic$
!
Aspect! ! ! ! Bond!bastic!faces!east!and!Hang!Ca!Cave!faces!west!
!
Tidal$considerations! Both!were!deep!although!both!become!hard!to!climb!onto!at!low!tide.!
!
Location$!! ! ! Bond!Bastic!! 20°48'12.03"N! 107°!5'58.31"E!
! ! ! ! Hang!Ca!Cave! 20°48'0.74"N! 107°!5'49.15"E!
!
!
!
Grade$overview! ! 5!–!7c!
!
st
The$routes$(Which$are$in$addition$to$the$ones$in$the$1 $edition$guidebook)$
!
!
Bond$Bastic$
6. Sky!Fall! ! ! ! ! 6b+! 12m! Alex!Twist! 10/11/12!
7. Shaken!not!stirred! ! !! **! 6c! 12m! Alex!Twist! 10/11/12!
8. A!Vu!to!a!kill! !! ! ***! 7c! 16m! Vu!Nguyen! 10/11/12!
!
Hang$Ca$Cave$
1. Vu!luptuous! ! ! *! 7b! 16m! Vu!Nguyen! 10/11/12!
2. Ratatouille! ! ! ! 4+!S1! 8m! Ruth!Murdie! 10/11/12!
3. Pretentious!naming! ! ! 6a+! 11m! Dave!Lucas! 10/11/12!
4. Linguistic!exuberance! ! ! 6b! 11m! Dan!Webber! 10/11/12!
5. A!bridge!Tu]fa! ! ! **! 7b+! 10m! Vu!Nguyen! 10/11/12!
This!climbs!along!the!cave!roof!on!tufas!to!the!double!holed!one!where!a!project!continues!up!to!the!tree.
6. A!hole!lot!of!love!! ! *!! 6b! 14m! Sam!Harvie! 10/11/12! !
HANG CA CAVE 33
Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012 and 2014.
GPS: 20 48’0.74”N 107 5’49.15”E
Hang Ca Cave
Aspect South West
Tide Climbable at low tide, though access to the right hand routes becomes more difficult.
Access to the crag at high tide is possible by basket boat, though requires careful navigation through
the cave.
Swell Very sheltered lagoon with very calm waters.
Notes The cave is popular with tourists in kayak
s, and they will need diverting away from drop zones. Noise should be kept to a minimum to avoid
disturbing monkeys around the lagoon. It is possible to access routes via kayak or basket boats with the
engines turned off if police ask you to move on.
1.
Vu
Luptutous
7b
16m
*
10/11/12
Vu
Nguyen
2.
Little
Tiddler
6b
7m
14/11/14
Tom
Booth
3.
Loony
Tunes
5+
7m
??
??
4.
Bass
Ackwards
6b(S2)
11m
??
??
5.
Kes
6c(S1)
17m
**
14/11/14
Alex
Twist
6.
Best
Bib
and
Tucker
6a+
11m
*
??
??
7.
Shangri
La
7c(S2)
19m
***
14/11/14
Ben
Heason
8.
Ratatouille
5+
6m
10/11/12
Ruth
Murdie
9.
Pretentious
Naming
6b
10m
*
10/11/12
Dave
Lucas
10.
Linguistic
Exuberance
6b+
10m
10/11/12
Dan
Webber
11.
A
Bridge
Tufa
7b+
10m
**
10/11/12
Vu
Nguyen
Boulders
out
of
the
cave
on
large
stalactites.
Finish
at
tufa
with
two
holes.
12.
Bat
Mobile
7b
12m
??
??
13.
Good
Recovery
6c
10m
14/11/14
Dan
Webber
.! 14.
Whole
Lotta
Love
6b
14m
*
10/12/14
Sam
Harvie
34 MIKE AND EVA’S CAVE
Mike$&$Eva’s$Cave$
Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.
!
Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!east!and!is!quite!exposed!and!may!get!swell!the!swell.!
!
Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!it!becomes!impossible!to!access!
the!cave!roof!at!lower!tides.!This!is!a!high!tide!venue!
!
Location$!! ! ! 20°48'5.05"N! 107°!7'47.65"E!
! ! ! !
!
!
!
Grade$overview! ! 5+!–!Project!!
!
The$routes$
1. Mực! ! ! ! ! **! 6a+! 17m! Dan!Webber! 16/11/12!
2. Cá! ! ! ! ! ***! 6a! 15m! Dan!Webber! 16/11/12!
3. Cơm! ! ! ! ! *! 5+! 16m! Dan!Webber! 16/11/12!
The!main!draw!to!this!venue!will!be!the!roof!of!the!cave,!it!is!very!close!to!Turtle!cave!and!is!worth!a!visit!but!does!not!
have!much!more!potential!then!that.!We!do!not!have!an!image!for!the!crag!
!
!
HANG DU aka ARCHWAY, TURTLE CAVE 35
This crag was explored in 2003 by Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb
Grieve & Grant Farquhar.
GPS: 20°47’50.85”N 107° 8’10.41”E
1) HO CHI MINH 7c+, Neil Gresham
Carolyn Conant on Hang Du. Pic by Jake Squier
36 WALHALLA ISLAND
WALHALLA ISLAND - ‘Boat People’
FA: Greg Child & Andy Parkin
GPS: 20°47’30.94”N 107° 6’54.83”E
Source: ‘The Face, six great climbing adventures’, BBC, Richard Else and Brian Hall
37
Left: Greg Child and Andy Parkin on ‘Boat
People’, source: ‘The Face, six great climbing
adventures’, BBC, Richard Else and Brian Hall
Below: Walhalla Island, source: LDG.
38 THE LAND THAT TIME FORGOT
Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2014.
GPS: 20°47’8.19”N 107° 6’14.25”
The Land that Time Forgot (left)
Aspect South
Tide Left side of the wall can be accessed easily at any tide, the rest of the wall is easier at
high tide. The water has plenty of depth.
Swell The wall would be exposed to southerly swell.
Notes
Routes
1. The Serpent 7a+ ** 13m 18/11/14 Vu Nguyen
2. Finger surgery 6b+ ** 8m 20/11/14 Tom Booth
39
The Land that Time Forgot (right)
Aspect West
Tide No complications due to the tide.
Swell The wall would be exposed to southerly swell.
Notes
Routes
1. On the wing 6a+ * 9m 19/11/14 Jon Thorne
40 THE LAND THAT TIME FORGOT
The Land that Time Forgot (central)
Aspect West
Tide No complications due to the tide.
Swell The wall would be exposed to southerly swell.
Notes
Routes
1. Scrabble 7a 11m 20/11/14 Ben Heason
2. Artful Dodger 7b * 9m 20/11/14 Vu Nguyen
3. Rock out w your cock out 6b+ * 9m 20/11/14 Andrew Bishop
JURASSIC PARK 41
Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012
GPS: 20°47’8.87”N 107° 6’15.55”E
Jurassic Park main wall
Aspect
Tide Best suited to mid -‐ high tides too shallow for very low tides.
Swell Relatively calm compared to Jelly Fish Crag, but does see some slight swell.
Notes Some of the early routes finish on very sharp rock, for added enjoyment.
Routes
1. Sick Boy 6b * 15m Dan Webber 19/11/14
2. L.O.W.G. 6b ** 12m Julian Ganton 19/11/14
3. Baby Spiller 6c *** 15m Tom Booth 19/11/14
4. B. E. A. UTIFUL 7c+ *** 17m Vu Nguyen 19/11/14
5. Back Flip for Glory 6c+ *** 17m Dan Webber 20/11/14
Note – First ascentionist back flipped from the finishing holds, which is required for the full
tick but is definitely NOT recommended!
6. Charge of the Light Brigade 6c *** 18m Alex Twist 20/11/14
7. Bread Knife Traverse 5 12m Matthew Kerfoot 20/11/14
42
Jurassic Park inner wall
Aspect North
Tide No complications with low tide.
Swell
Notes
Routes
1. Battery Drain 7a * 15m 19/11/14 Ben Heason
43
Jurassic Park left end
Aspect East
Tide No complications due to low tide
Swell
Notes
Routes
1. Energy Crisis 6c * 17m 19/11/14 Ben Heason
2. Happy Masseur 6a+ 11m 19/11/14 Alex Twist
3. Berocca 6a * 9m 20/11/14 Matthew Kerfoot
4. Jump Face 6a+ * 17m 21/11/14 Andrew Bishop
44 THE CORKSCREW (CHOPSTICK ISLAND)
rappel thread
Source: LDG
THE CORKSCREW - ‘Faith No More’
FA: Erik Ferjentsik - 2008
GPS: 20°46’46.96”N 107° 7’4.50”E
40 m, 11 Bolts, Mixed, 5a
Very fun and run out crag access route in anticipation of more routes on the north-west faces.
It’s all about the view from the top here. Start at an extended base easy to jump from your
boat to. Scramble up into the cave area with really friendly featured white rock for the first bolt.
Traverse left to avoid the overhang and into a dihedral and then right around the arete to the
face. The anchor is six meters below the summit.
Notes from Gavi Piper:
Climbed 12/2015. Found eight bolts, not including anchors, although vegetation could easily
hide more. On visual inspection the first bolt shows minor surface rust and all others appear to
be in good condition. Long slings will help with heavy rope drag. Rappel from the anchor rings;
if using a single rope, there’s a good thread just below a small cave about half way down to
climber’s right.
THE CORKSCREW (CHOPSTICK ISLAND) - DWS 45
Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2014.
GPS: 20°46’46.96”N 107° 7’4.50”E
Notes
The
cave
is
popular
with
tourists
in
kayaks,
and
they
will
need
diverting
away
from
drop
zones.
Noise
should
be
kept
to
a
minimum
to
avoid
disturbing
monkeys
around
the
lagoon.
It
is
possible
to
access
routes
via
kayak
or
basket
boats
with
the
engines
turned
off
if
police
ask
you
to
move
on.
Hon
Dua
(Chopstick
Island)
Aspect
North
Tide
The
walls
are
very
exposed
to
strong
tidal
currents
and
although
it
was
first
climbed
at
high
tide
the
depth
was
deeper
then
3.5m
Swell
Exposed
to
the
main
channel,
which
runs
north
to
south.
Notes
There
are
two
bolted
lines
on
the
face,
but
there
is
no
info
on
these
routes.
Two
further
projects
possible
through
the
main
roof.
Routes
1. Hamsters
Cheeks
5+
6m
David
Wear
13/11/14
2. Force
fed
6a+
6m
Alex
Twist
13/11/14
3. Kellogs
start
5+
6m
David
Wear
13/11/14
46 WITCHES NOSE
Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.
The$Witches$Nose$
!
Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!east!and!is!exposed!to!swell.!
!
Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!it!becomes!impossible!to!climb!
onto!at!low!tide.!Consider!placing!etriers!at!high!tide!to!allow!access!at!low!tide.!
!
Location$!! ! ! 20°46'46.09"N! 107°!8'6.41"E! !
!
! ! ! !
!
Grade$overview! ! 6a!–!7a!
!
Left$
1. She!turned!me!into!a!newt.!I!got!better.! *! 6c! 12m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!
!
Central$–$The$nose$
2. The!sorcerer.! ! ! ! **! 7a! 8m! Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!
3. Who!you!calling!BIG!nose?!! ! *! 6b! 13m! Dave!Lucas! 17/11/12!
!
Right$
4. What!else!floats!on!water?! ! *! 6b+! 16m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!
5. She’s!a!free!thinking!intelligent!woman,!Burn!her!! 6a! 13m! Eva!Rhode! 17/11/12!
!
!
!
! 2
Grade$overview! ! 6a!–!7a!
!
Left$
1. She!turned!me!into!a!newt.!I!got!better.! *! 6c! 12m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!
!
Central$–$The$nose$
2. The!sorcerer.! ! ! ! **! 7a! 8m! Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!
3. Who!you!calling!BIG!nose?!! ! *! 6b! 13m! Dave!Lucas! 17/11/12!
!
Right$
4. What!else!floats!on!water?! ! *! 6b+! 16m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!
5. She’s!a!free!thinking!intelligent!woman,!Burn!her!! 6a! 13m! Eva!Rhode! 17/11/12!
!
!
47
$
$ $ $
$ $
48 TUNG THIT Tung$Thit$(opposite$the$amphitheater$crag)$
!
Aspect! ! ! ! The!cliff!is!a!SE!face!
Recorded
! by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.
Tidal$considerations! This!is!a!high!tide!crag!for!DWS!and!care!should!be!taken!on!a!retreating!tide
Tung$Thit$(opposite$the$amphitheater$crag)$
There!is!also!a!rock!under!route!13!
! !
Location$!!
Aspect! ! ! ! ! ! The!cliff!is!a!SE!face!
20°46'42.44"N! ! 107°!3'52.07"E!
! !
Tidal$considerations! This!is!a!high!tide!crag!for!DWS!and!care!should!be!taken!on!a!retreating!tide.!
There!is!also!a!rock!under!route!13!
!
Location$!! ! ! 20°46'42.44"N! ! 107°!3'52.07"E!
!
!
!
Grade$overview! ! 6a!]!7b!
!
The$routes$
! !
1. Vu!do! ! ! ! **! 7b!S1!
! 11m! Vu!Nguyen! 08/11/12!
2. Diamond!Falcon!Supersonic!!
Grade$overview! ! 6a!]!7b! **! 6b! 14m! !Dave!Lucas! 17/11/12!
! 3. Could!be!good!! ! ! ! 6b+! 9m! Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!
4. If!you!can!be!bothered!! !
The$routes$ ! 6c!! 9m! Alex!Twist! 08/11/12!
! 5. Fagin! ! ! ! *! 7a! 7m! Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!
6. Lamb!chop!
1. Vu!do! ! ! ! ! ! **! **! 7b!S1!7a! 11m! 15m!! Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!
Vu!Nguyen! 08/11/12!
7. Mint!sauce!
2. Diamond!Falcon!Supersonic!!! ! **! *! 6b! 6c! 14m! 15m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!
!Dave!Lucas! 17/11/12!
8. Slot!Machine!
3. Could!be!good!! ! ! ! ! ! *! 6b+! 6c! 9m! 7m!Sam!Harvie!
Dan!Webber!08/11/12!
08/11/12!
Viii!extension!–!From!large!pocket!continue!to!flake!ledge!6c+!add!on!3m!Sam!Harvie!
4. If!you!can!be!bothered!! ! ! 6c!! 9m! Alex!Twist! 08/11/12!
9. Phosphorescence!
5. Fagin! ! ! ! ! ! *! *! 7a! 6c! 7m! 11m! Dan!Webber!17/11/12!
Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!
10. Where’s!Wally?!
6. Lamb!chop! ! ! ! ! **! ! 7a! 6a! 15m!! 8m!Sam!Harvie!
Dan!Webber!08/11/12!
08/11/12!
11. Green!sleeves!
7. Mint!sauce! ! ! ! ! *! **! 6c! 6b+!15m! 15m! Sam!Harvie! 17/11/12!
Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!
12. Green!&!pleasant!land!
8. Slot!Machine! ! ! ! *! *! 6c! 6a+!7m! 15m! Dave!Lucas! 08/11/12!
Dan!Webber! 17/11/12!
13. Got!to!pick!a!pocket!or!Tufa! **! 6b+! 11m! Alex!Twist!
Viii!extension!–!From!large!pocket!continue!to!flake!ledge!6c+!add!on!3m!Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!
14. Postman!Pat!!
9. Phosphorescence! ! ! ! *! *! 6c! 6c! 11m! 11m! Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!
Dan!Webber! 17/11/12!
15. Hob!Goblin! !
10. Where’s!Wally?! ! ! ! ! **! 6a! 6c! 8m! 15m! Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!
Dan!Webber! 08/11/12!
16. Vu’s!ledge!end!
11. Green!sleeves! ! ! ! ! **! *! 6b+! 7a! 15m! 15m! Vu!Nguyen! 08/11/12!
Sam!Harvie! 08/11/12!
12. Green!&!pleasant!land! ! *! 6a+! 15m! Dave!Lucas! 17/11/12!
13. Got!to!pick!a!pocket!or!Tufa! **! 6b+! 11m! Alex!Twist! 08/11/12!
14. Postman!Pat! ! ! *! 6c! 11m! Alex!Twist! 17/11/12!
$
!
49
e.!
50 BIG BEN (TOWER OF PISA)
Source: LDG
BIG BEN N WALL - ‘The Gunpowder Plot’
FA: Dave Lucas and Ruth Murdie - 15/11/12
GPS: 20°45’57.91”N 107° 5’0.34”E
E1 4a, 4b, 4c, 4c. 10 m, 25 m, 40 m, 15 m. Scramble from the boat up the initial 10 m and find
a hanging belay. Then follow the topo to the top. Most of the climbing is on sharp grey rock.
So even though the climbing is easy it it important no to fall for risk of injury and or cutting the
rope. The last 8 m to the summit have no protection available.
51
Source: LDG
BIG BEN SW WALL
1| ‘Westminster’ - FA: Alex Twist and Dan Webber - 5/11/2012
E1 4b, 4c, 5a, 4a, 5a. 6 m, 15 m, 15 m, 8 m, 50 m.
2| ‘Clockworks’ - FA: Calvin Tague and Luca De Giorgi - May 2015
Scramble up 6 m to the cave and set up the first anchor. Climb 40 m of 5b to the next anchor
and then 65 m to the top, beautiful crack in the first 10 m.
From the top rappel 60 m and then 10 m more to the boat.
52 VAN BOI TRONG
GPS: 20° 45.599’N 107° 4.679’E
Renate, 5c. Behind the left corner. Andreas Unterkalmsteiner.
Mu, 6a. Thomas Hochkofler.
Figgluise, 6c. Peter Braito.
Emma, 6a+. Roman Stuefer.
Schiff AHOI, 6b+, Klaus Kofler.
Bolted in 2008.
Bolts are heavily rusted and
not safe to climb until rebolted.
Climbing at your own risk!
53
54 THE BLACK SLAB
Source: LDG
THE BLACK SLAB - ‘Ross’s Closed Project’
FA: Calvin Tague and Luca De Giorgi - May 2015
GPS: 20°45’26.80”N 107° 4’44.00”E
Location: Solitary island 1 km northwest of Tiger Beach. 2 Pitches, 70 m, 5a. Gear: Slings,
wires and one set of cams. Difficult access with choppy sea.
Rappel with two 60 m ropes to the start.
TIGER’S CORNER 55
Source: LDG
TIGER’S CORNER - ‘What goes up must come down’
FA: Chris Johnson and Luca De Giorgi - May 2015
GPS: 20°45’31.19”N 107° 3’54.59”E
Location: 300 m east of tiger beach. 2 Pitches, 70 m, 5b. Gear: Slings, wires and one set of
cams. Rappel 30 m and 40 m to the bottom.
56 TON NUOC
TON NUOC - ‘Crisis averted’
FA: Chris Johnson & Calvin Tague - 2015
GPS: 20°43’9.77”N 107° 1’41.39”E
1. Pitch: 25 m, 6c
2. Pitch: 20 m, 5b
Located in a truly epic setting inside a cave within an island around a km offshore of Cat Ba
Town. Drive the basketboat through a cave opening on the northwest tip of the island and de-
light at the wonderous setting. This climb can be found half way up the slope on the right side.
And tops out through a small opening on the top of the island.
Bring slings, cams and nuts and a 60 m rope. Rappel down back into the cave.
THE FACE aka HAN’S ISLAND 57
1
2
THE FACE aka Hans Island
GPS: 20°46’8.26”N 107° 8’11.89”E
A beautiful triangular vertical wall, located above a boulder-beach on a small island.
This crag now features several bolted sport climbs, the first of which was Nightrider
(so named because it was climbed by head torch light on the first ascent)
1) Nightrider, 7b (Tim Emmett, Grant Farquhar, Neil Gresham)
2) Licence to climb, 7a (Erik Ferjentsik)
3) Extention, 7c (Lee Cujes)
Photo credits: Neil Gresham)
58 FISHERMAN’S WAY
This crag was explored in 2003 by Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett, Seb
Grieve & Grant Farquhar and is also featured in Dosage Vol.III.
GPS: 20°45’17.61”N 107° 7’40.19”E
DAUBE (Saigon Wall)
1) Charlie Don’t Surf, 5c, Grant Farquhar
2) Ruff Guide to Vietnam, 7a+, Seb Grieve
3) Napalm Morning, 7b Neil Gresham
4) Good Morning Vietnam, 7a+, Tim
5) Apocalypse Now, 7a, Neil Gresham
6) Never get out of the boat, 6c, Grant
7) Platoon, 7a+, Neil Gresham
8) Boat People, 7a, Tim Emmett
9) N…n…n…n….ninteeen, 7a+, Neil Gresham
FISHERMAN’S WAY - WEST 59
Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2012.
GPS: 20°45’17.51”N 107° 7’38.62”E
Fisherman’s$Way$R$West$
!
Aspect! ! ! ! The!wall!faces!south!and!is!exposed!to!swell!if!wind!is!southerly!or!westerly.!
!
Tidal$considerations! The!area!has!plenty!of!water!and!is!deep!although!both!become!hard!to!climb!onto!
at!low!tide.!
Permission$ The!team!did!get!moved!on!by!the!police!and!paid!a!bribe!of!4!beers!(how!dare!
they)!for!their!efforts.!There!are!loads!more!routes!to!go!here.!
!
Location$!! ! ! Fisherman’s!Way!]!West!! 20°45'17.10"N! 107°!7'39.32"E!
! ! ! !
!
!
!
Grade$overview! ! 5!–!6c+!(Project!will!go!at!7b+?)!
!
Confidence$Wall$
1. Patchwork!perfection! ! ! **! 6c! 11m! Dave!Lucas! 14/11/12!
2. Through!the!Ruth!!! ! ! **! 5!S1! 16m! Ruth!Murdie! 14/11/12!
!
Unlawful$disorder$wall$
3. Unlawful!disorder! ! ! ***! 6b+! 11m! Alex!Twist! 14/11/12!
!
Bribery$wall$
4. Rude!awakening! ! ! ! ! 6b+! 9m! Mike!Hutton! 14/11/12!
5. Bribery! ! ! ! ! ! 6b! 13m! Dan!Webber! 14/11/12!
6. Corruption! ! ! ! *! 6b+! 13m! Dan!Webber! 14/11/12!
7. Fun!di!Mental! ! ! ! **! 6c+! 12m! Dave!Lucas! 14/11/12!
8. Pink!Chalice! ! ! ! *!! 6b! 13m! Alex!Twist! 14/11/12!
9. The!wrestler!project! ! ! **!! 7b+?! ?! !
60
15
61
$ $
$ $
62 ALL IS SWELL THAT ENDS SWELL (Jelly Fish Crag)
Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2014.
GPS: 20°45’4.21”N 107° 8’34.54”E
Jelly Fish crag
Aspect East and south
Tide Low tide leaves 0.5m under the crag. High tide is required and is advised to climb 2
hours either side of HT. first ascents climbed on a 3.5m high tide.
Swell Strong winds on day of climbing brought in swell that made getting onto the rock more
awkward.
Notes On the day of climbing we saw no jellyfish, but on the day we first saw the crag there
were three lurking in the depths.
Routes
1. Swell Easy 5 8m Jon Thorne 13/11/14
2. Rr 5+ 8m Dave Lucas 13/11/14
3. Vunami 7b+ 9m Vu Nguyen 13/11/14
4. Rr
5. Ebb, Swell and Flow 6b * 13m Tom Booth 13/11/14
6. Ducking Swell 6b+ * 11m Andy Bishop 13/11/14
7. Project
8. Rr Alex Twist 13/11/14
9. Project
SHALLOW GRAVE 63
Recorded by Dave Lucas and The Expedition Consultancy in 2014.
GPS: 20°45’17.81”N 107° 8’59.20”E
Shallow
Grave
Aspect
East
and
south
Tide
Low
tide
leaves
0.5m
under
the
crag.
High
tide
is
required
and
is
advised
to
climb
2
hours
either
side
of
HT.
first
ascents
climbed
on
a
3.5m
high
tide.
Swell
Strong
winds
on
day
of
climbing
brought
in
swell
that
made
getting
onto
the
rock
more
awkward.
Notes
On
the
day
of
climbing
we
saw
no
jellyfish,
but
on
the
day
we
first
saw
the
crag
there
were
three
lurking
in
the
depths.
Routes
1. Same
ledge
different
man
6a+
13m
13/11/14
Dan
Webber
2. Man
on
a
Ledge
6a+
*
13m
13/11/14
Andrew
Bishop
64 CERRO TORRE
GPS: 20°54’9.23”N 107° 8’56.22”E
Source: Grimper no. 81, www.grimper.com/mag-grimper-81
65
66 LAUGHING DOG WALL
GPS: 20°54’4.60”N 107°10’3.20”E
Source: Grimper no. 81, www.grimper.com/mag-grimper-81
The Laughing Dog Wall
is called after a tufa that
looks like a laughing
dog. Drawaing by Paul
Piana
HON MUC MUC, LA PLAGE DES PIRATES 67
