CONVERTING THE DIGITECH XP-100 TO AN

XP-“ALL” BUILD INSTRUCTIONS.

By: Govmnt_Lacky and digi2t. – 27/09/12

Updated – 10/09/15– Typo correction, and note for R47 added.

INTRODUCTION

This article deals with what is required to convert the Digitech XP-100 into an XP-
100/200/300/400 unit. Via a 4 position selector switch, the user will be able to enjoy the entire
line of the Digitech XP series of pedals, all in one box.

This adventure started some time ago with my fascination with the now famous XP-300 Space
Station. This unit is, by far, the most famous of the series. It contains many “other-worldly”
presets, but the real piece de la resistance, is its backwards delay presets. Not only can it play
what you feed it, but then via the treadle, the user can actually slow it down, and THEN play it
backwards. This gives the effect of slowing down the record to stop, and then pushing the
rotation the other way. Very cool indeed. To my knowledge, this effect has not been introduced
into any of the Digitech effects since.

There are “Jetpack” versions of this mod available on the market. These are the original XP
units that have been modded to contain all the XP units. To my knowledge, these are the fore-
fathers to this mod. A tip of the hat must be given to jetpack for initially getting the ball rolling on
this. Much has been written on the mods by various people, on different effects forums, which
also allowed us (through trial and error ;-)) to get to this point. So many thanks to all of those
who contributed as well.

THE UNITS

One of the great things about converting these units is the fact that they all share the same
PCB. Yup, all the PCB’s (to my knowledge) are identical. This must have made it very easy for
Digitech to control production. They could simply load the required amount of components onto
a board, and voila!, the desired model is built. Luckily for us, this makes it fairly easy for us to
mod these units as well. Initially, my first conversion was an XP-200 to XP-300 unit. Nothing
fancy, since I simply wanted an XP-300, without having to pay the hefty price that these units
fetch on the internet. Having been able to snag an XP-200 for under 100$, I now had my
platform. Since the 200 and 300 are very close to being identical vis-à-vis component
population, it was a very straight forward mod. It simply required a 27C256 chip, containing the
XP-300 code, and the addition of more RAM, to run the program. It worked out wonderfully well,
allowing me the pleasure to now have access to the great patches available on the XP-300.
With that done, I decided to get a bit bolder, and try my luck at expanding the conversion
process. Some months later, I won an XP-100 Whammy for 65$, on EBay. My thought at the
time was that I would try and create a “dual-boot” pedal, being able to switch between the XP-
100, and the XP-300. I was a bit taken aback by the work required to do this. I found out soon
enough, that the XP-100 is the most stripped down version of all the series. It contains the least
amount of RAM chips, and no 27C256 EPROM. The program is actually stored in a sub-mask of
another IC. There’s also quite a bit of components missing, particularly where stereo output is
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concerned. Stereo output on the 100 is quite rudimentary, one side being the wet effect, and the
other side dry. The program is written as such. The 200, 300, and 400 on the other hand,
provide true stereo effect output i.e. panning, bouncing, etc. So, it stands to reason that Digitech
would not load up a board with components that would not be required. This, for me, was a bit
of a setback, but I decided to forge ahead anyway. Adding the required RAM, EPROM, another
required SMD IC, some capacitors, and a resistor, I managed to finally get my XP100/300 unit
off the ground. I should add here that I owe a debt of gratitude to “logich” for his help with this
conversion. He helped with filling in many of the blanks that my brain was drawing during the
operation.

So, with that done, and all of my work published on diystompboxes.com, my friend
Govmnt_Lacky comes into the picture. With guts for glory, and nerves of steel, he decided to try
his hand at an XP-100 conversion as well. Well, the “simple mod” quickly spun out of control,
and turned into a full blown collaboration, to convert the XP-100 into an XP-ALL unit. During the
process, we came to a couple of interesting conclusions; first, the lack of components on the
XP-100 is almost a blessing in disguise. Since the XP-100 code is stored on an SMD IC, this
means that we have one less 27C256 to stack in the EPROM slot. That, is a “good thing”, since
we can’t see how we could stack 4 IC’s, with sockets, here. Having never seen a gutshot of a
“Jetpack” model, I assume it can be done. G_L on the other hand, opted to insert sockets
between each EPROM. This makes it “somewhat” easier to swap out a chip, if ever anything
goes awry. Besides, having the 100 code elsewhere, means we can use up all the space
available here, and trust us, if you decide to socket all the EPROM’s, you’ll use it all up.
*WARNING* If you decide to mod a 200 or 400, then you’ll have to forego the sockets, and
piggyback 4 chips directly together to get all 4 modes due to the space constraint.

Second, the Jetpack versions require that the units be powered down before switching program
modes. We found this to be a bit of a “pin in the ass”, but at the time we thought it a necessary
evil. Not so. Our mod does not require the power down hassle of pulling the plug, switching the
mode switch, and plugging the unit back in. The user can now simply turn the mode switch to
the desired mode he/she wants to use, and the unit will quickly boot (about 3 seconds) into the
desired mode. This with the unit powered on at all times.

So, without further ado, we’ll move on to the actual build instructions. But first off we’ll address
the…

CAVEATS

1) The units themselves. I’m talking particularly about the 100, 200, and 400 here. It’s
official, the 300’s fetch prices that many of us “mere mortals” can’t fathom to pay, but it
doesn’t mean that modding any of the other units will be dirt cheap, or free, either.
Finding a unit to mod will depend directly on the following factors; which unit you’re
eyeing, the initial cost of said unit, if you can program the EPROM’s yourself (or not),
amount of components required, etc. Not counting the initial expense of the unit, the
mod cost can run anywhere between 30$ at the low end of the scale, to over 175$. Why
such a spread? It all comes down to how far you’re willing to go with the project. Like I
mentioned earlier, converting a 200 directly into a 300, is really not that expensive
(considering the price of an XP-300!). Add 3 more RAM chips, a programmed 27C256, 3

2
 tantalum capacitors, and the job is done. You are now the proud owner of an XP-300.
The complexity, and hence price, goes up from there.
2) Insofar as programming the 27C256, if you have the capability of doing it yourself, that’s
fine, half the battle is won. If you don’t, then you’ll need to either find someone who can,
or invest in a UV eraser, and chip burner. It should be stressed here; this article
deals specifically with the XP-100 to XP-ALL mod. The “Full Monty” so to speak.
Any lesser mod/conversion info can be found at diystompboxes.com, via the
site’s search function.
3) The RAM. These are (for the most part) NEC D41464C (or chips UPD41464C). I believe
that there are other manufacturers of these chips as well, though these are the only ones
I’ve ever bought, or dealt with. Insofar as IC’s go, these are discontinued, hard (but not
impossible) to find, and pricey. On a VERY rare occasion I’ve found them for under 2$
each, but generally they go for about 4 – 6$ a piece. I did read somewhere that
someone did successfully use a RAM chip of similar characteristics (memory blocks,
speed, pin configuration, etc.), but for the life of me I can’t find that info anymore.
Another RAM chip that might work here is the Hitachi HM50464P. There is no guarantee
expressed, or implied here, we have not tested the Hitachi chip at this point in time. It
just seems to match the NEC chip’s data though. The Hitachi chips seem to be a bit on
the slower side though, ranging through -12, -15, and -20. The slowest NEC chip seems
to be the -12, which is as slow as we want to go here. Again, the Hitachi is a bit on the
pricey side at 2 – 6$ a chip for -12’s, but it might be a suitable alternative if the NEC chip
is unavailable. If anyone decides to go out on a limb and try the Hitachi, or any other
chip for that matter, please let us know how you fared.
4) SMD devices. Ouuff!! The hair on the back of my neck just went up. If you’ve never
soldered SMD components, you’re in for a treat… not! If you’re a weekend solder-
jockey, you better be sure of your soldering abilities, and equipment. Soldering SMD
devices is not for the unsteady hand, or for your hardware store Weller 60/100 soldering
gun. They are very small devices, tough to handle, and need a delicate touch, not to
mention a proper soldering iron. If you have any doubts, stop reading right here, and
carry on with your daily routine. It’s been nice knowing you. If you have experience with,
or think you can pull it off, read on.
5) The EPROM(S). These are 27C256, UV erasable, EPROMS. Why UV erasable? ‘Cuz if
the shit’s gonna hit the fan, you’ll have the capacity of starting over easily. It’s already
been documented that a chip got corrupted (static electricity?) between the programmer,
and the unit. DOAH! The unit wouldn’t boot up. With a UV erasable chip, no problem.
Erase it, reprogram, and try again. As with the RAM, -12 or faster is preferable, -15 is the
slowest we want to go. They’re widely available, from a variety of sources, at a variety of
prices. Google is your friend.
6) The UV eraser and programmer. I bought my own from Ebay. The eraser cost me 15$,
and the programmer around 100$. These items I had, before undertaking this project. I
used them to upgrade my Behringer FCB1010, SGX2000, and X-15 Ultrafoot. It was an
investment I made, and they have paid for themselves since. This is the eraser;

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And the programmer;

The programmer is also available on Ebay as well. It connects to your computer via USB,
and comes with the operation software. We will not be going into any detail about
programming in this document, since this isn’t in the scope of the document. Burning chips
is fairly straight forward, and plenty of information, in layman’s terms, may be found on the
subject on the internet. If you feel that this is beyond your capabilities, or don’t want to shell
out the money, then we suggest you try and find someone to do it for you.

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 All chip code files for all the XP series pedal can be found at;

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47736

Click on the link above, or paste the address into your web browser, and download the Zip file.
The file contains four files that are required to program the EPROM’s. In this case, since the
XP100 code is already on the main board, you’ll only need the 200, 300, and 400 files.

The schematics for all the XP pedals can be found here;

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47739

Again, click on the link above, or paste the address into your web browser, and download the
Zip file. All four XP pedals are covered in this file.

If ever these links turn up dead, you may also email me at;

[email protected]

Please note that I will only reply for requests for the above files, if they are not available from the
above sources. Please direct all other requests for info, or troubleshooting to the
diytompboxes.com forum. Use the “Search” function to find the required info, or to contact us for
info/help.

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 SWITCHING BETWEEN MODES, AND OTHER PARTICULARITIES.

(A.K.A. “MORE STUFF YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE XP-ALL”)

1) First of all it should be noted that the XP100 IS NOT true stereo. It was never
programmed as such, so if you’re running your rig in stereo, it gives one side wet, and
one side dry. There is NOTHING that can be done about this, short of major reworking of
the pedal. After the XP-ALL mod, the dry side of the 100 mode is lost (* see note
below). The 200, 300, and 400 are true stereo, and will output as such. Of course, if
you’re running everything in mono, then there’s no problem in any case.
2) Since each mode has a different number of total patches, the XP-ALL unit will react as
follows depending which preset/mode you’re in.
a) If you are in a patch number that is shared in all modes, then the unit will stay in that
patch number when switched to the next mode. Example; if in preset 10, the unit will
stay in preset 10, no matter which mode you switch to.
b) If you are in a preset number that is HIGHER than the mode you switch to, the unit will
switch to the highest preset of the mode you switch to. Example; you’re in XP200 mode,
preset 55, and you switch to XP300 mode. The unit will automatically go to preset 50,
which is the highest preset in XP300 mode.

These are just particularities of the XP-ALL, and it should be noted as such. Knowing about
them will prevent confusion when using your XP-ALL unit for the first time.

 * NOTE – as of 30 Sept. 2012, G_L and I have been working on a possible mod to
regain the dry signal on the right channel, as the original XP-100 was configured. Tests
are on-going, but we might be able to implement a fairly simple, and inexpensive mod to
bring the XP-ALL to original functionality in XP-100 mode. If successful, this article will
be updated accordingly, and results published at diystompboxes.com.

20/12/12 - THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN ADDRESSED IN THE XP-ALL+ ADDENDUM.

PLEASE SEE PAGES 38, AND 50, FOR INFORMATION REGARDING THE XP-100
STEREO RELAY WORK AROUND. THE RELAY APPLICATION MAY BE USED ON
ALL XP-ALL MODS, TO REGAIN THE LOST STEREO OUTPUT IN XP-100 MODE.

If you’re still game at this point… read on…

6
 THE XP-100

So, let’s start with some gutshots. The XP-100, in original form;

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Versus a straight XP-300 conversion (converted XP-200 shown here);

Notwithstanding the extra dual gang pot and wiring shown in the latter picture, you’ll notice
that there are many components missing from the XP-100. The dual gang pot and wiring is
an output volume mod, and is discussed later in this article. It has no bearing on the mod.

As mentioned earlier, the latter picture represents a straight XP-200, or 400, conversion.
Now we’ll examine some pictures of an XP-100 to XP-ALL conversion. The following
pictures are courtesy of Govmnt_Lacky;

8
The unit;

9
Mode selector;

10
Mode selector (inside);

11
Internal/External memory selection wiring;

12
XP200/300/400 chips (2 pictures);

13
14
Power reset IC wiring (for power on mode selection rebooting);

15
Added RAM chips;

As we can see, many more components are required, including some less obvious, near the
top of the PCB. The next section will cover the components required for the conversion.

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 BILL OF MATERIALS

The following list comprises everything required to convert the XP-100 into an XP-ALL.

Qty Description.

3 - 27C256, UV erasable EPROM’s (-12, or faster), programmed with the XP200,

300, and 400 codes.

3 - D41464C (or UPD41464C) Dynamic RAM (-12, or faster)

3* - 28 pin IC sockets (*only 1 if soldering IC legs directly)

3 - 18 pin IC sockets

1 - 74HC574D, SMD IC

1 - MC34064P, under voltage sensor

3 - 10uF / 25V Tantalum capacitors

1 - 0.39uF / 100V metal film capacitor

2 - J113, N-Channel JFET

1 - 10 ohms (10R), 1/4w metal film resistor

3 - 10K ohms, 1/4w metal film resistors

1 - 3P4T rotary switch (“non-shorting”, or “break before make”)

1 - Knob for rotary switch

OPTIONAL

1 - A1M dual gang pot (for volume output mod, do not use lesser values.)

1 - Knob for volume control

CONSUMMABLES

Wire - 22 and 28 AWG multi strand

Heatshrink - 3/16” and 1/8”

Solder

Tye wraps

TOOLS

Soldering iron - 25 to 40 watts, fine point

Solder pump

Screwdrivers, small wrench, cutters, etc.

17
 INSTRUCTIONS

Now that you have all the necessary components, it’s time to get to work. First we must remove
the main board from the unit. This will allow you to easily work on both sides of the board.
Prepare your soldering iron, solder pump, a Philips screwdriver, and a small adjustable wrench.

1) Remove the 3 jack nuts, and then the bottom cover.

2) Remove the LED daughter board from the treadle arm. Unsolder the two points outlined.

18
3) Remove the three Philips screws securing the main board, and the footswitch board to
the unit.

The main board should now just slip out.

The next step is pretty tedious. It’s desoldering all the holes where you will be inserting
the missing components. The way I did it, was by jigging up the board in a small PCB, or
table vice. I oriented the board to have the soldering iron in one hand, on one side, and
the solder pump in the other hand, on the other side. Melting the solder from one side, I
then suck the solder out with the pump from the other at the same time. Then move to
the next hole.

19
 All the holes that need to be cleared are outlined here;

So, we need to desolder the holes for;

- U16, U17, U18 (RAM IC’s)

- C61, C64, C65 (10uF), and C63 (0.39uF)
- Q5, Q10 (JFET’s)
- U9 (EPROM)
- U13 (Under volt sensor, behind electrolytic capacitor in picture)

With that done, install the three, 18 pin, IC sockets for U16, U17, and U18. Now, install the
capacitors, and JFET’s. Be sure to observe the proper polarity for the tantalum capacitors.
Install R47 (10R resistor, needed only on some XP-100’s). DO NOT install U13 just yet.

Before we move on to the 74HC574D SMD IC, we must remove a resistor and a
jumper. R30 and R38 must be removed (and R47 installed, if necessary). They are
located as indicated on the next photo;

20
 In the XP100, the R38 resistor tells the unit to boot from the internal memory. Since we will
be switching between internal and external memory, we will be wiring a resistor on to the switch
later on. R30 is a jumper for the dry side of the XP100. Since we are installing the required
components for the stereo aspect of the 200, 300, and 400, we need to remove this jumper. I
found that the best way to remove them is to heat up the solder on one side of the resistor, and
suck it up with the pump. Then, heat up the other end, and at the same time with the point of the
soldering iron, put a little pressure on the resistor to lift it. It should just bend up off the board,
and then you can work it off. On some XP-100’s R47 must be installed (10R). 200 and 400
models already have this resistor.

Now you can move on to the 74HC574D (U8 on the board). The best advice that I can offer
insofar as soldering this SMD IC to the board is this; Make sure the tip on your iron is pointy and
clean, find a way to hold the IC steady in place, and avoid excessive heat to the legs of the IC.

The way I did it, was to line up the legs with the lines of solder on the board, and then hold the
IC in place with a small screwdriver by applying a slight pressure to the center of the IC. I then
melted the solder on the board, just enough to get the solder to stick to one of the corner legs.
Then I did the same to an opposite corner leg. Once I had two legs stuck, this held the IC in
place. I then went to work soldering all the other legs, finishing with the first two legs. Go slow,
and give the leg you just soldered time to cool before moving to the next one.

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OK, now we move on to the EPROM’s. If you look at the picture below, you’ll notice that we’ve
soldered one socket to the board, and there are two others soldered directly to the tops of the
first and second EPROM’s (counting from the bottom up).

Why did we do this, instead of soldering the IC’s directly to each other? It has been documented
(as well as happening to me once!) that an EPROM may get corrupted during programming,
handling, or installation. It’s not risky if you follow proper handling procedures, but sometimes,
“shit happens”. By installing sockets in between, you can still remove one EPROM for erasing,
and reprogramming if necessary.

If you decide to solder the IC’s directly together, you can do this as well, and eliminate two
sockets. JUST MAKE SURE THAT THE CHIPS ARE PROGRAMMED BEFOREHAND, AND
BE CAREFUL WHEN SOLDERING THE LEGS TOGETHER.

With that said, solder a socket to the top of the XP200 EPROM, and the other to the top of the
XP300 EPROM. You will be stacking the XP200, XP300, and the XP400 EPROM’s from bottom
to top.

Once the sockets are soldered to the EPROM’s, solder a 10K resistor between leg 20, and leg
28, on each EPROM. Use heatshrink to ensure that the resistor lead doesn’t touch the other
pins on the EPROM. Now solder a length of wire to leg 20 of each EPROM. Assemble the
EPROM’s, but do not install the EPROM stack, or socket, on the board just yet.

22
Take the socket that will be soldered to the board, and cut off pin 20. Make sure you cut this pin
as flush as you can. Now, solder a length of wire into the hole on the PCB where pin 20 of the
socket would normally go. Ensure that the wire insulation is as flush to the board as possible, to
avoid any possibility of shorting between it and the socket that will be installed above it. Now,
install the socket to the PCB, and the EPROM stack into it.

This is how they should look installed;

Notice 4 wires leading away from the stack. The orange one is from the pin 20 hole on the
board, and the yellow, green, and blue wire are soldered to the pins 20 of the EPROM’s.

23
Next picture shows the view from the other side of the stack. Orange wire to pin 20 hole on
PCB.

Now we move on to U13, the under volt sensor. In a nutshell, what the MC34064P does is
to send a reset signal to the microprocessor, in the event of a low voltage situation. And this is
where the advantage of our mod lies, as opposed to the Jetpack models. We use the
MC34064P to send a low voltage signal to the microprocessor, thus forcing the brain to reset
the pedal, and boot into the selected mode, WITHOUT unplugging the unit!

How?

By using a “break before make” (BBM or non-shorting) rotary switch, and wiring the MC34064P
into it, when we switch between modes, we also break the voltage supply to the MC34064P for
a fraction of a second. This fraction of a second is long enough to create an under voltage
environment for the MC34064P, and it sends a reboot signal to the microprocessor. No more
powering down the unit to switch modes. Simply, switch modes via the rotary switch, and the
unit will automatically reboot itself into the mode selected.

Now for the MC34064P installation. First, locate the U13 placement on the board. You’ll see that
the three holes are labelled “R”, “I”, and “G”. Solder a length of wire into the hole marked “I”.
Make sure to get the insulation of the wire as close to the board as possible, avoiding any
exposure of the wire strands when you bend the wire out of the way. Take the MC34064P, and
bend the center leg (“I”) up to a 90 degree angle. Solder a length of wire to the center leg, and
place a piece of heatshrink over it to prevent it from shorting anywhere.
24
Now install the MC34064P onto the board. Only the “R” and “G” legs will be soldered onto the
board. It should look like this when done;

Make sure to clip excess wire and leg leads from the solder side of the board. That’s it for the
heavy board work. Take a well deserved break, and you can move on to the wiring.

WIRING

Before we proceed any further, we need to solder four more wires to the board. Luckily, there
are trace thru holes available on the board that we can use to connect our wires neatly and
cleanly to the board. The following pictures show where we need to solder two of those wires,
and the red square in the next picture, is where you will solder the third (GROUND wire, not
shown). You will need to desolder these holes to insert your wires. The holes are quite tiny as
well, and I don’t think that anything bigger than 28AWG will fit;

One wire goes into the hole just to the left of the “U8” marking. The other wire is in the hole
directly above the “33” marking, and right next to the lower pad of where R38 used to be.

25
Solder a third wire to the GROUND (sleeve) contact of J2, marked by a red square in the
above picture. Although the wire not pictured here, you’ll need this wire later for the
switch.

Now that the wires are installed, clip any excess wire from the solder side of the board, and
reinstall the board into the unit. Follow the reverse procedure of the removal. ENSURE THAT
THE SCREW THAT SECURES THE BOARD TO THE CHASSIS (JUST BELOW Q4, POINT
IS LABELED “H5”) IS TIGHT, AND THERE IS GOOD CONTINUITY BETWEEN THE
GROUND PAD OF THE BOARD, AND THE CHASSIS.

NOTE: If you’re going to perform the output volume mod, do this BEFORE reinstalling the
board. If you reassemble everything now, you’ll need to take everything apart again to perform
the mod. Go down to the “Output Volume Mod” section for the procedure.

26
Now we can wire our rotary switch. First of all, this picture illustrates the mounting position of the
switch, inside and out;

27
28
After you’ve installed your switch, the wiring should be as follows;

10K resistors

10R resistor

Note the 10R resistor. Solder it directly between the wire and switch lug, and heatshrink the
works. Solder the other wires to their respective lugs, and be sure to install the jumpers between
lugs 1, 2, 3, 4, and lugs 6, 7, and 8.

That’s it. You’re done! Time to plug in your unit, and try it out. If something is amiss, turn it off,
and go over your work again. If you’re stumped, look us up at diystompboxes.com, and we’ll do
our best to help you out. If everything seems to be working properly, congratulations! You’re
now the proud owner of an XP-ALL.

29
 OPTIONAL OUTPUT VOLUME MOD

If you’re interested in adding an output volume control, here’s the way to do it. First, the board
needs to be out of the unit.

Next, we need to remove the LEFT and RIGHT (J2 and J3) output jacks from the board. The
biggest pain here is removing the metal retaining bracket on the front end of the jack, holding it
to the board. With your soldering iron, and solder pump, desolder the pins of the jacks from the
board. TAKE CARE NOT TO DAMAGE THE BOARD PADS WITH EXCESSIVE HEAT! TAKE
YOUR TIME!

Once the jacks are out, you’ll be looking at this (minus the nut);

You now need to cut the output (tip) pin on both jacks. Make sure you cut it as flush to the jack
body as possible. I actually used a Dremel after cutting it, grinding the pin flush to the plastic of
the body.

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When done, it should look like this;

Solder one wire here.

Cut pin – solder one wire into hole where pin was before.

Once both jacks are done, prepare four lengths of wire, about 6” each. These wires can be up to
22AWG, we have room to solder the larger gauge to the board.

Solder a wire into the hole where the lugs you removed on the jacks would go. Now solder the
other two wires directly to the top of the output (tip) contacts of the jacks, indicated by the arrow
in the image above.

With all four wires soldered in, clip any excess wire from the solder side of the board, reinstall
the two jacks, and reinstall the board into the unit. Drill a hole for the pot, and install the A1M
dual gang pot.

As for the pot wiring, lug 1 of both pots goes to ground (green wire, GROUND contact of Input
jack), lugs 2 connect to the wires that go to the board, and lugs 3 to the contacts of the jacks.

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU USE THAT GROUND CONTACT

OF THE INPUT JACK TO GROUND POLE 1 OF THE DUAL GANG
VOLUME POT. Use of any other grounding point, i.e. chassis ground, may induce a
whining noise in the audio, especially at lower volume levels.

Solder GROUND wire for pot here on INPUT JACK.

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It should look all like this;

That’s it. Output volume mod done! Now along with the input gain adjustment, you can really
adjust the unit to unity gain in any pedal board situation. From the outside, the position of the
pot is as such;

32
 Output volume.

FINAL CALIBRATION

Once you’re satisfied that everything is functioning as it should, you should perform a factory
reset. This will calibrate the pedal for optimum treadle function. The procedure is as follows;

Factory Reset/Pedal Calibrate

-To reset the User programs to their factory settings and calibrate the expression pedal, press
and hold the <BYPASS/(Hold)TUNER> foot switch and apply power to the unit.
-Wait until the letters rS appear in the display and release the foot switch.
-The display will now read: Pd and CA , indicating that you are in Pedal calibrate mode.
-Once Pb appears, rock the pedal back and press the <BYPASS> foot switch.
-When PF appears, rock the pedal forward and press the <BYPASS> foot switch.
-SA will next appear in the display to confirm the pedal is now calibrated.

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