DOI: 10.

26524/pr1811
RESEARCH ARTICLE

Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Lipsticks

K. Akilandeswari a,*, N. Shanthini a, A. Vinitha a, M.R. Nithya kalyani a
a
Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, University College of Engineering, Anna University, BIT campus, Tiruchirappalli,
Tamilnadu, India.

*Corresponding Author ABSTRACT: The cosmetics are incredible in demand since historical time till day as it
K.Akilandeswari has become part of our culture and fashion. Lipsticks are most widely used to enhance
([email protected]) the beauty of lips and it also greatly help in maintaining health and happiness. With
Tel.: 0431-2407946 respect to this aim and objective, an effort was made to frame herbal lipsticks by using
coloured natural pigments of Alkanna tinctoria, and the lipsticks were evaluated on
Received : 01-04-2018 their sensory analysis such as spreading, hardness, shine and gloss to obtain a
Accepted : 15-04-2018
satisfactory product. The preparation of these lipsticks includes natural ingredients like
Alkanna tinctoria, carnauba wax, olive oil, coconut oil, peppermint oil, castor oil, almond
oil. Due to various adverse effects of available synthetic preparation, the present work
was conceived to formulate an herbal lipstick having minimal or no side effects which
will extensively use by the women of our society with great indemnity and
contentment.
.
Keywords: Alkanna tinctoria, carnauba wax, herbal lipstick, cosmetics

1 Introduction
Cosmetics and personal care products have played lasting lipstick, and glossy lipstick. These lipsticks contains
an essential role in our lives for thousands of years. Food basic ingredients like pigment, oil, waxes, emollient and
and drug cosmetic act defines cosmetic as “an article other additive that apply colour, texture and protection to
intended to be rubbed, poured, sprayed on, introduced lips and it is manufactured by four major processes like
into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part pigment premilling, melting and mixing, molding and
there off or cleansing, beautifying, promoting flaming [2]. It is available in wide range of shades like true
attractiveness, or by altering the appearance without red together with rose, pink and coral shades to meet the
affecting structure or functions [1]. The product included variety of requirements of the intended user group. The
in this definition are skin moisturizer, lipstick, nail polish herbal cosmetics are less toxic, efficient and safe to use
etc. some lipsticks sucks moisture from lip most of them than synthetic preparation.
are very meticulous about hydration and are made to Colouring lip is an ancient practice and dates back
preserve the natural state of lip as most people leave their to antediluvian period. Lipstick’s appropriately colourful
sensitive tip to the mercy of sun even though they are history began with Queen Schub-ad; this Sumerian queen
most conscious about protecting the rest of face. As a used lip colorant made with a base of white lead and
result, human lips can become dry and chapped easily crushed red rocks [3]. Lipstick culture then reached
therefore it is vital to protect the lip by using lipstick various countries, by the end of 19th century the first
which acts as sunscreen to protect it from harmful UV commercial lipstick was invented in 1884, France and only
rays. Herbs are invaluable gift of nature; It has been actor and actress wore lipstick in public. The lipstick
considered as symbol of safety. These herbal plants are industry having successfully re-imagined lipstick, as a
used by human in many purposes like food, medicine and symbol of devout, conventional femininity within a few
cosmetics. An assortment of lipstick is available in the years. Thus lipsticks became a ubiquitous and even
market like matte lipstick, cream lipstick, sheer and long indispensable item during the 1950s [4].

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2 Noxious issues of lipstick one of the most important vegetables grown worldwide. It
Though lipstick has colourful history and has its belongs to the family Brassicaceae. This shallow-rooted,
unique market, it also suffers from some major perilous cool-season crop is cultivated for its large leafy head and is
drawback. Recent researches has found that lipstick a native vegetable of South-western Europe and
contain traces of lead and other heavy metal like Mediterranean region. Nowadays, we can find this cabbage
antimony, arsenic, cadmium, which cause serious health not only in this two region but all over the world.
issue and in severe form it can be carcinogenic or even
fatal as it is based on human ingestion [5]. These lip care 2.3 Taxonomical description
product causes certain allergic reaction, the commonest is Kingdom: Plantae
allergic contact cheilitis of vermilion margin of lip Order: Brassicales
sometimes also extend to the adjacent perioral region Family: Brassaicacea
which can be in acute or chronic form [6]. Genus: Brassica
Species: Brassica oleracea
2.1 Lead traces Before being thought of as a food, cabbage was
A recent federal analysis showed that 400 shades valued for medicinal purposes in treating headaches, gout,
of popular lipstick contained trace amounts of lead that and diarrhoea and peptic ulcers [11]. Much research has
has exacerbated an ongoing dispute between regulators focused on beneficial phytochemicals in cabbage,
and consumer activists over how much lead is safe in particularly its indole-3-carbinole (I3C), sulforaphane and
cosmetics. Five lipsticks made by L’Oreal and Maybelline, indoles. These compounds help activate and stabilize the
owned by L’Oreal USA, ranked among the top 10 most body’s antioxidant and detoxification mechanisms that
contaminated of the cosmetics, according to testing by the dismantle and eliminate cancer-producing substances
Food and Drug Administration. Two Cover Girl and two [12]. It possesses antioxidant and phytochemicals that
NARS lipsticks also landed in the top 10, as did one made have strong protective effects against major degenerative
by Stargazer. A study by US consumer group Campaign for diseases including cancer and cardiovascular diseases
Safe Cosmetics, in October 2007 found 60 percent of [13]. Red cabbage is also a promising source of
lipsticks tested contained trace amounts of lead, especially anthocyanin for coloration of foods since its anthocyanin’s
in red lipsticks [7]. The levels of lead varied from 0.03 to are unique in being coloured over a very broad pH-range
0.65 parts per million. One third of the lipsticks containing compared to anthocyanin’s from, e.g. grape skin, black
lead exceeded the 0.1ppm limit set by the U.S. Food and currant and elderberry, which only possess a reasonable
Drug Administration for lead in candy [8-9]. degree of colour at pH<4

2.2 Description of plant 3 Methodology

Red Cabbage (Brassica oleracea L. var. capitata) is

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3.1 Materials and methods replacement was found which will be soluble in oil and
make it suitable to formulate lipstick.
Chemicals and reagents
Alkanet tinctoria also known as dyers alkanet,
Carnauba wax, Coconut oil, Almond oil, Olive oil, dyers bugloss, is an herb in borage family. Alkanna is a
Castor oil, Moringa (ben) oil, White soft paraffin, biennial or perennial herbaceous plant growing from 0.3
Peppermint oil, Ethanol, Methanol, Chloroform. to 0.6 m in height with pubescent lanceolate leaves. It
bears blue to purple trumpet-shaped flowers arranged in
Extraction of red cabbage loose, 1-sided scorpioid racemes. The dried cylindrical,
fissured rhizome has exfoliating, brittle, and dark purple
The collected red cabbage was washed thoroughly
bark on the outside and remains of bristly leaf and stem
and the leaves were sliced into small pieces and oven-
pieces near the crown region [15]. While native to
dried at 50°C. Dried plants (100gm) were extracted. The
southern Europe, the plant is also grown in and imported
uses of dry plants can be effective to minimize enzymatic
from Albania, India, Egypt, and Turkey [16]. Alkanna root
degradation of phonetic compounds inside the plant
belongs to the plant family Boraginaceae and contains
tissues. After overnight maceration, the extract was
pyrrolizidine alkaloids that aid in plant defence against
filtered through gauze and water was evaporated under
insect herbivores. Although pyrrolizidine alkaloids are
reduced pressure at 50°C. After evaporation, the extract is
found in all plant organs, they are concentrated in the
lyophilized. The resulting dried pigments were then used
roots of these plants [17]. The root as a dyestuff is soluble
for further studies [14].
in alcohol, ether, and the oils, but is insoluble in water. It is
used to give colour to wines, alcoholic tinctures, vegetable
A REPLACEMENT-Alkanna tinctoria
oils and to varnishes. Alkanet is traditionally used in
Thus as, Brassica oleracea, Var.capita F.rubra
Indian food under the name "Ratan Jot", and lends its red
commonly known as red cabbage goes awry an
colour to some versions of the curry dish Rogan Josh.

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Taxonomical description be mixed with other ingredient in order to make to make

Kingdom: Plantae this process easy the waxes are melted. It can be usually
Family : Boraginacea mixed with oil and melted to the melted base the pigment
Genus : Alkanna and other additives are added and mixed to form a
Species : Alkanna tinctoria homogeneous product.
The Greek physician Hippocrates (ca. 460 to 370
BC) recorded the use of Alkanna root for the treatment of 3.1.7 Molding
skin ulcers, and the botanist Theophrastus (ca. 371 to 287 Molding is the actual step where the melted
BC) suggested that it could be used as a dye and in lipstick is poured into metal or plastic mold, the mix is
medications. Greek physician and pharmacologist poured while it is hot however it is beneficial to harden
Dioscorides (ca. 49 to 90 AD) also described Alkanna's and then it is removed from the mole with slight pressure.
properties [18]. It was traditionally used topically for the
treatment of skin wounds and diseases. Orally, Alkanna 3.1.8 Flaming
root has been used for diarrhoea and gastric ulcers [19]. Flaming is the last step where the lipstick is
Alkanna root has demonstrated radical scavenging passed through flame, it is typically held and twisted in the
activity, suggesting potential antiaging effects; however, flame for up to a second and then removed to avoid
clinical trial information is lacking [20]. melting and losing shape to obtain a glossy finish and then
it is placed in the container [21]. Various formulation is
Extraction done from trial 1 to 5 to find the superior quality lipstick
The extraction of red pigment from Alkanet root is with colorant and oil as variable parameter.
done by maceration extraction technique. Since the
Alkanet root is insoluble in water the extraction is done by From consumer perspective a lip care cosmetic
using oil as an extraction medium. The various oils used should possess the following requirement:
for the extraction technique is coconut oil, castor oil, olive  Attractive colour
oil, almond oil. The Alkanet root is infused in oil and is  Homogeneous colour when applied
kept macerated for one week to obtain a dark red colour  Pleasant smell and taste
pigment. The obtained red pigment which is infused in oil  Easy to apply
is then filtered using a lint cloth and funnel since the  No staining or bleeding into fine line
viscosity of oil differs filter paper is not used. The infused surrounding the lips
Alkanet root oil which produced a red pigment can be used  Long lasting effect
in formulation of herbal lipstick as it is soluble in oil.
Basic ingredients required
3.2 Procedure Table 1: The ingredients used in the formulation of
The formulation of herbal lipstick involves the herbal lipsticks are,
basic manufacturing process like, Ingredients Function

Pigment premilling Carnauba wax Hardness and High melting

The first step involved in formulation of herbal point
lipstick is pigment premilling where the agglomerates in Coconut Oil Anti-microbial and
the powder are broken down to provide homogeneous antioxidant
smooth and even colour to the lipstick. Moringa oil Prevent rancidity

Cabbage extract Coloring agent

Melting and mixing
The next step involved is the melting and mixing Peppermint oil Flavoring and anti-viral
stage, since waxes are solid at room temperature it cannot agent

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 The lipstick is then passed through the flame to

Formulation 1 obtain a glossy finish and then finally it is placed
 3.6g of carnauba wax and 4ml of moringa oil were in the container.
taken in a beaker and melted to form a
homogeneous mixture. Formulation 4
 To the mixture 0.5 ml pigment infused coconut oil  3.6g of carnauba wax and 2.5ml of castor oil were
is added and melted and sufficient quantity of taken in a beaker and melted to form a
peppermint oil is added. homogeneous mixture.
 The melted mixture is then poured in the mold  To the mixture 3 ml pigment infused coconut oil
and then placed in a refrigerator for the stick to and 2ml of moringa oil is added and melted
harden. sufficient quantity of peppermint oil is added.
 After the stick has hardened it is removed from  The melted mixture is then poured in the mold
the mold with slight pressure and then placed in a refrigerator for the stick to
 The lipstick is then passed through the flame to harden.
obtain a glossy finish and then finally it is placed  After the stick has hardened it is removed from
in the container. the mold with slight pressure
 The lipstick is then passed through the flame to
Formulation 2 obtain a glossy finish and then finally it is placed
 3.6g of carnauba wax and 2.5ml of olive oil were in the container.
taken in a beaker and melted to form a
homogeneous mixture. Formulation 5
 To the mixture 1.5 ml pigment infused coconut oil  3.6g of carnauba wax and 2.5ml of almond oil
and 2ml of moringa oil is added and melted and were taken in a beaker and melted to form a
sufficient quantity of peppermint oil is added. homogeneous mixture.
 The melted mixture is then poured in the mold  To the mixture 4 ml pigment infused coconut oil
and then placed in a refrigerator for the stick to and 2ml of moringa oil is added and melted
harden. sufficient quantity of peppermint oil is added.
 After the stick has hardened it is removed from  The melted mixture is then poured in the mold
the mold with slight pressure and then placed in a refrigerator for the stick to
 The lipstick is then passed through the flame to harden.
obtain a glossy finish and then finally it is placed  After the stick has hardened it is removed from
in the container. the mold with slight pressure
 The lipstick is then passed through the flame to
Formulation 3 obtain a glossy finish and then finally it is placed
 3.6g of carnauba wax and 2ml of olive oil were in the container.
taken in a beaker and melted to form a
homogeneous mixture. Formulation 6
 To the mixture 2.5 ml pigment infused coconut oil  3.6g of carnauba wax and 2.5ml of almond oil
and 2ml of moringa oil is added and melted were taken in a beaker and melted to form a
sufficient quantity of peppermint oil is added. homogeneous mixture.
 The melted mixture is then poured in the mold  To the mixture 4.5 ml pigment infused coconut oil
and then placed in a refrigerator for the stick to and 2ml of moringa oil is added and melted
harden. sufficient quantity of peppermint oil is added.
 After the stick has hardened it is removed from
the mold with slight pressure

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 The melted mixture is then poured in the mold 3.3 Melting point
and then placed in a refrigerator for the stick to Apparatus
harden. Flat Bottom Tube, Thermometer
 After the stick has hardened it is removed from
the mold with slight pressure Procedure
 The lipstick is then passed through the flame to Place the lipstick with protruded salve in the flat
obtain a glossy finish and then finally it is placed bottom tube. Fix the thermometer through a cork in such a
in the container. way that the bulb of the thermometer just touches the
lipstick salve. Insert this arrangement into a 1-litre beaker
Evaluation of herbal lipstick filled with water to a level one centimetre above the upper
The quality of cosmetic product in the same way tip of the lipstick salve. Slowly heat the water while
as to other kind of product is initially defined by stirring so that temperature rises at a rate not exceeding
manufacturer chooses the features that a product should 2°C per minute. When the temperature reaches about
present. The quality control of the product aims to verify if 45°C, raise the temperature at the rate of 1°C per minute.
all these defined features are in accordance with standard Constantly watch the lipstick salve. Record the
definition and if it will be maintained during the shelf life temperature when the salve starts bending and losing its
of the product [22]. shape [24].

The quality control of cosmetic is important to pH test

ensure the efficacy and safety of the product and its raw The pH of formulated herbal lipstick was
material. Some current technique used by the cosmetic determined using pH paper [25].
industry is applied to the evaluation of cosmetic. The
quality control parameter used in efficient are Surface anomalies
 Melting point This is studied to determine any surface defects,
 pH such as formation of crystals on surfaces, contamination
 Surface anomalies by moulds, fungi etc [26].
 Solubility test
 Skin irritation test Solubility test
 Colour The formulated herbal lipstick was dissolved in
 Rancidity various solvents to observe the solubility [26].
 Microbiological test
Sensorial analysis is an another powerful tool Skin irritation test
since there is no equipment able to measure the It is carried out by applying product on the skin
human feeling it can be understood as a discipline that for 10 min [28].
interprets assess and measure the characteristic of a
product. After stimulating people in relation to their Rancidity
vital senses as vision, smell, touch and taste [23]. It This test when carried out on dark coloured
allows the establishment of the organoleptic profile of lipsticks is likely to be vitiated. because endpoint in
the diverse product. Thus sensorial analysis is a determination of peroxide number may not be very sharp.
indispensable technique to help the formulator to In such cases, it is expected, as a good manufacturing
evaluate the quality of its new product in relation to practice manufacturer should check rancidity of lipstick
its sensorial characteristic and to its stability testing is raw materials, especially vegetable oils and other rancidity
the product will keep the nice sensorial feeling by prone materials regularly in lipsticks base mixtures
transmitting to the consumer during the time of use. without colours, by peroxide number test.

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Reagents to register the minimum temperature within the sterilizing

Acetic Acid, Chloroform, Potassium Chloride Solution – chamber, a pressure gauge and properly adjusted safety
Saturated valve, petri dish, colony counter
Sodium Thiosulphate Solution – Approx. 0.01 N.
Media
Procedure Nutrient Agar Medium
Weigh 5.0&0.05 g of lipstick sample in a 250 ml Dissolve 5 g of yeast extract (or meat extract), 5 g
conical flask and dissolve in 30 ml of acetic acid - of sodium chloride and 10 g of peptone in1 000 ml of
chloroform mixture (3: 2). Heat if necessary to dissolve the distilled water contained in a 2-litrebeaker by heating on a
sample. Add 0.5 ml of freshly made saturated potassium water, bath. Add 25 g of powdered agar and continue
iodide solution. Shake and after two minutes add 30 ml of boiling until the agar is completely dissolved. Adjust the
distilled water and then titrate with 0.01 N sodium pH to 7.4 with sodium hydroxide solution using pH meter
thiosulphate solution using starch as an indicator. or comparator. Filter while hot through lint cloth placed in
a funnel and dispense into tubes in 20 ml quantities. Close
Calculation the tubes with metal caps or cotton and sterilize in an
Peroxide number = Milli equivalents peroxide per 1000 g autoclave at 121°Cand 1.05 kgf/cmg pressure for 20
sample minutes. After autoclaving, store the tubes in a
A x N x 1 000/ Mass of sample refrigerator.
A = volume in ml of sodium thiosulphate
N = normality of sodium thiosulphate Solution [24]. Procedure
Weigh and transfer aseptically four0.5 g
3.4 Microbiological test portions of the sample to four melted nutrient agar tubes,
The test consists of plating a known mass of the Shake the tubes to mix the contents thoroughly and pour
sample on two selected culture media specifically suitable into sterile petri dishes. Incubate the nutrient agar tubes at
for the growth of bacteria and fungi and incubating them 37ºC for 48 h. Determine the average number of colonies
for a specified period to permit the development of visual per gram of the sample on nutrient agar tube [24].
colonies for counting.
4 Results and disscusion
Apparatus Red cabbage extraction and formulation
Tubes - Of resistant glass provided with closely Herbal lipstick
fitting metal Autoclaves - Of suitable size. They shall keep The formulated lipstick using Brassica oleracea
uniform temperature within the chamber up to and var. capitata f.rubra (red cabbage) goes awry as pigment is
including the sterilizing temperature of 120°C. They shall insoluble in oil and settle at bottom without imparting any
be equipped with an accurate thermometer, located so as colour to the stick.

Figure 1: Red Cabbage extraction and Formulation of Herbal Lipstick

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Formulation 1 has bad consistency and ease of application but no coloured pigment were retained in the formulation.
Formulation 2 has good consistency but the colored pigment retained is less
Formulation 3 has good consistency but the color pigment retained was up to an appropriate extent
Formulation 4 has good consistency and the color pigment retained was better than previous formulation
Formulation 5 has good consistency, the color pigment was retained but the microbial content is high
Formulation 6 has good consistency and the color pigment retained was also best than other formulations

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Figure 3: Melting Points of various Formulations

Figure 4: pH Test of various formulations

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Melting point pH
The melting point of the formulated The pH of the formulated herbal lipstick was
herbal lipsticks was evaluated and the result indicates that evaluated as quality control test and as a result it was
formulation 6 has highest melting point compared to other found that four formulations has pH range of 6
formulations

Figure 5: Rancidity Test of various Formulations

Microbiological test Organoleptic evaluation of lipstick
Any product will be in jeopardy by the growth of It is indispensable for a cosmetic product to
micro-organism hence it is essential to determine the evaluate its organoleptic properties or sensorial analysis
number of microorganism that has grown on the product to meet out with requirement of punter. Hence the
through microbiological test. This quality control test has formulated herbal lipstick was evaluated on its
been done on all six formulations and it has been found organoleptic properties, as a result of evaluation it was
that formulation 6 is less susceptible to the growth of found that formulation 6 is the best of all the six
microorganism. formulation.

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Table 9.
PARAMETER TRIAL 1 TRIAL 2 TRIAL 3 TRIAL 4 TRIAL 5 TRIAL 6
COLOUR White Pale pink Pale pink pink Deep red Pinkish red
SURFACE ANOMALIES No defect No defect No defect No defect No defect No defect
EASE OF APPLICATION Poor Poor Good Easy Good Easy
AGING STABILITY Rough Smooth Smooth Smooth Smooth Smooth
PERFUME STABILITY ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ +++
SOLUBILITY TEST CHCl3 CHCl3 CHCl3 CHCl3 CHCl3 CHCl3
SKIN IRRITATION TEST No No No No No No

5 Conclusion
In the present study, formulation of lipstick it
was formulated by herbal preparation. At first it was
formulated using red cabbage, but it goes awry a
replacement was used which is Alkanna tinctoria root
extract. Different formulations were made by using the
basic manufacturing process like pigment premilling,
melting, mixing, moulding, flaming processes using
Alkanna tinctoria as a colouring pigment. All the
formulations were evaluated for their physical
characteristic and sensorial analysis. Taking into .
consideration of both consistency and quality control we
conclude that Formulation 6 is the best formulation of all
formulated herbal lipstick as other formulation has minor
deformities. The formulated herbal lipstick also possess
certain pros compared to available synthetic preparation
like these are less toxic and possess anti-microbial and
antioxidant property which shield the lip as we all leave
our sensitive lip to the mercy of sun.

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Acknowledgment
We express our profound and sincere gratitude to the department of pharmaceutical
technology, Anna University, Tiruchirappalli, India
Competing Interests:
The authors declare that they have no competing interests.

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