JJFJFH
JJFJFH
Contents
Mi Querido Yucatán 5 Isla Cozumel 104
Xcaret 115
Rancho Punta Venado 115
The Authors 15 Paamul 115
Xpu-Há 116
Akumal 116
Getting Started 17 Xel-Há 117
Bahías de Punta Solimán 117
Tankah 118
Itineraries 21 Tulum 118
Gran Cenote 127
Snapshot 26 Cobá 127
Punta Laguna 130
SOUTHERN
History 27 QUINTANA ROO 130
Tulum to Punta Allen 130
Felipe Carrillo Puerto 132
The Culture 35 Mahahual &
The Costa Maya 134
Xcalak 135
Environment 46 Laguna Bacalar 136
Around Bacalar 137
Chetumal 138
Yucatán Outdoors 52 Corredor Arqueológico 146
Zona Libre 150
South to Belize &
Food & Drink 59 Guatemala 150
CAMPECHE TO MÉRIDA
VIA HIGHWAY 180 221
Hecelchakán 221
Bécal 222
CAMPECHE TO MÉRIDA Tabasco &
Chiapas
VIA HIGHWAY 261 223 (p237)
Edzná 223
Hopelchén 224
Around Hopelchén 225
Chenes Sites 225
SOUTHWESTERN COAST 226
Champotón 226
Champotón to Sabancuy 227
Laguna de Términos 227
Ciudad del Carmen 227
Atasta Peninsula 229
ESCÁRCEGA TO XPUJIL 229
27
History
While Europe was sliding into the Dark Ages, the people of the Yucatán
had already reached what is arguably the pinnacle of New World civili-
zation. The lowland Maya developed a complex system of writing and
two separate calendar cycles based on their observations of astronomical
phenomena. Also, they built temples from limestone and demonstrated a
highly sophisticated level of artistic expression in their murals and pottery.
The Yucatán developed independently from the rest of Mexico, though
it could not help but be influenced by its powerful neighbor. It was only
last century that the peninsula became part of the country, a union that it
fiercely resisted. More recently it has faced a different sort of cultural inva-
sion as the country’s tourism goldmine, though beyond Cancún’s glitzy
façade a very ancient culture continues to chart its own course.
EARLY AMERICANS
Conventional wisdom holds that humans arrived in the Americas from
The website of the Foun-
Siberia around 40,000 years ago, via a land bridge across the Bering Strait
dation for the Advance-
that connected present-day Alaska with Asia. Recent evidence dates
ment of Mesoamerican
human presence in Mexico’s central plateau to roughly 13,000 years ago,
Studies (www.famsi.org)
and the Yucatán was probably populated a few millennia later. By the
contains numerous
time the migratory waves subsided around 8000 BC, the earth’s climate
resources for broadening
had warmed up considerably. In Mexico grasslands dried up, causing
your understanding of
herds of big-game herbivores to dwindle, and hunting was gradually sup-
Maya history.
planted by agriculture. By 5700 BC people were planting maize (corn) in
the Tehuacán valley in what is now Puebla state.
By 2000 BC, many Mesoamericans (peoples between present-day cen-
tral Mexico and Nicaragua) were cultivating corn, squash, avocados and
beans, and raising chickens, turkeys and dogs. They continued to hunt and
fish as they had for generations, but they became dependent upon crops.
Mexico’s ancestral civilization arose near the Gulf Coast, in the humid
lowlands of southern Veracruz and neighboring Tabasco. These were
the Olmecs, who invented a hieroglyphic writing system and erected
ceremonial centers for the practice of religious rituals. Best known for
the colossal heads they carved from basalt slabs, the Olmecs developed
The jaguar motifs first
an artistic style, highlighted by jaguar motifs.
used by the Olmecs were
Even after their demise, aspects of Olmec culture lived on among their
adopted by successive
neighbors, paving the way for the later accomplishments of Maya art,
civilizations throughout
architecture and science. Borrowing significantly from the Olmecs, the
Mesoamerica.
Zapotec culture arose on the Pacific coast southwest of Olmec territory,
and subsequent civilizations at Teotihuacán (near current-day Mexico
City) and at El Tajín in northern Veracruz also show Olmec influence.
www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • T h e P o s t - C l a s s i c Pe r i o d 29
Toward the end of the Classic period, the focus of Maya civilization
shifted northward to Yucatán, where new nuclei developed at what is now
called Chichén Itzá (p191), Uxmal (p172) and Calakmul (p230), giving
us the artistic styles known as Puuc, Chenes and Río Bec.
POST-CLASSIC PERIOD
The Toltecs
The collapse of Classic Maya civilization is as surprising as it was sudden.
It seems as though the upper classes demanded ever more servants, aco-
lytes and laborers, and though the Maya population was growing rapidly,
it did not furnish enough farmers to feed everyone. Thus weakened, the
Maya were prey to the next wave of invaders from central Mexico.
Chronicle of the Maya
In the wake of Teotihuacán’s demise, the Toltec people emerged as
Kings and Queens, by
Mexico’s new boss, establishing their capital at Tula (north of present-day
Simon Martin and Nikolai
Mexico City). A Toltec faction, led by a fair-haired, bearded king named
Grube, tells in superbly
Topiltzin – the self-proclaimed heir to the title of Quetzalcóatl (Plumed
illustrated detail the
Serpent) – was forced to leave their native land by hostile warrior clans.
histories of 11 of the
Quetzalcóatl and his followers retreated to the Gulf Coast and sailed
most important Maya
eastward to Yucatán, establishing their new base at Uucil-abnal – the land
city-states and their
that would be Chichén Itzá. The culture at this Toltec-dominated center
rulers.
flourished after the late 10th century, when all of the great buildings
were constructed, but by 1200 the city was abandoned. Many Mexicans
believed, however, that the Plumed Serpent king would someday return
from the direction of the rising sun to reclaim his domain at Tula.
The Itzáes
Forced by invaders to leave their traditional homeland on the Yucatán’s
Gulf Coast, a group called the Itzáes headed southeast into northeastern
Guatemala. Some continued to Belize, later making their way north along
the coast and into northern Yucatán, where they settled at the abandoned
Uucil-abnal around AD 1220. The Itzá leader styled himself Kukulcán
(the Maya name for Quetzalcóatl), as had the city’s Toltec founder, and
recycled lots of other Toltec lore as well. But the Itzáes strengthened the
belief in the sacred nature of cenotes (the natural limestone sinkholes that
provided the Maya with their water supply, and they even named their
new home Chichén Itzá (Mouth of the Well of the Itzáes).
From Chichén Itzá, the ruling Itzáes traveled westwards and founded a
new capital city at Mayapán, which dominated the political life of northern
Yucatán for several hundred years. From Mayapán, the Cocom lineage
of the Itzáes ruled a fractious collection of Yucatecan city-states until the
mid-15th century, when a subject people from Uxmal, the Xiú, overthrew
Cocom power. Mayapán was pillaged, ruined and never repopulated. For
the next century, until the coming of the conquistadors, northern Yucatán
was alive with battles and power struggles among its city-states.
1492 1519–21
Spanish arrive in the Caribbean, settling momentarily on Hispañola Spaniard Hernán Cortés lands on the Gulf Coast, captures Aztec
and Cuba god-king Moctezuma II and conquers Tenochtitlán
© Lonely Planet Publications
30 H I S T O R Y • • C o n q u e s t & T h e C o l o n i a l Pe r i o d ( 1 5 3 0 – 1 8 2 1 ) www.lonelyplanet.com
Then Diego Velázquez, the governor of Cuba, asked his ambitious young
personal secretary, Hernán Cortés, to lead a new expedition westward.
Even though Velázquez subsequently tried to cancel the voyage, Cortés set
sail on February 15, 1519, with 11 ships, 550 men and 16 horses.
Landing first at the isle of Cozumel off the Yucatán, the Spaniards
were joined by Jerónimo de Aguilar, a Spanish priest who had been
shipwrecked there several years earlier. With Aguilar acting as translator
and guide, Cortés’ force moved west along the coast to Tabasco. After
defeating the inhabitants there, the expedition headed inland, winning
more battles and some converts to Christianity as it went.
Central Mexico was then dominated by the Aztec empire from its
capital of Tenochtitlán (now Mexico City). The Aztecs, like many other
cultures in the area, believed that Quetzalcóatl would one day return from
the east, and – conveniently for him – Cortés’ arrival coincided with their
prophecies of the Plumed Serpent’s return. The Aztecs allowed the small
Spanish force into the capital, perhaps fearful of angering these strangers
who might be gods.
By this time thousands of members of the Aztecs’ subject peoples had
Legend has it that the allied with Cortés, eager to throw off the harsh rule imposed by their
peninsula got its name overlords. Many Aztecs died of smallpox introduced by the Spanish, and
when the Spanish by the time they resolved to make war against Cortés and their subjects,
conquistadors asked the they found themselves outnumbered and were defeated, though not
natives what they called without putting up a tremendous fight.
their land and got the Cortés then conquered central Mexico, after which he turned his at-
response, ‘Yucatán’ – tentions to the Yucatán.
Maya for ‘We don’t
understand you.’ CONQUEST & THE COLONIAL PERIOD (1530–1821)
Francisco de Montejo Sr & Jr
Despite political infighting among the Yucatecan Maya, conquest by the
Spaniards was not easy. The Spanish monarch commissioned Francisco
de Montejo (El Adelantado, or the Pioneer) with the task, and he set
out from Spain in 1527 accompanied by his son, also named Francisco
de Montejo (El Mozo, or the Lad) and a band of men. Landing first at
Cozumel, then at Xel-Há on the mainland, the Montejos discovered that
the local people wanted nothing to do with them.
The father-and-son team then sailed around the peninsula, conquered
Tabasco (1530) and established their base near Campeche, which could
easily be supplied with provisions, arms and troops from central Mexico.
They pushed inland to conquer, but after four long, difficult years they
were forced to return to Mexico City in defeat.
The younger Montejo took up the cause again, with his father’s sup-
port, and in 1540 returned to Campeche with his cousin named…Fran-
cisco de Montejo. The two Montejos pressed inland with speed and
success, allying themselves with the Xiú against the Cocomes, defeating
the Cocomes and converting the Xiú to Christianity.
The Montejos founded Mérida in 1542 and within four years subju-
gated almost all of Yucatán to Spanish rule. The once proud and inde-
pendent Maya became peons, working for Spanish masters without hope
of deliverance except in heaven. The conquerors’ attitude toward the in-
digenous peoples is graphically depicted in the reliefs on the façade of the
1542 1810–21
Francisco de Montejo the Younger establishes colonial capital at War of Independence from Spain; Yucatán joins newly independent
Mérida upon ruins of the Maya city of T’ho Mexican republic
© Lonely Planet Publications
1847–8 1866
War of the Castes erupts; Yucatán rejoins Mexican federation Independent Maya republic is established with capital at Chan
enlisting aid against Maya rebels Santa Cruz
© Lonely Planet Publications
Spain in 1808, criollos in many New World colonies took the opportunity
to rise in revolt. By 1821 both Mexico and Guatemala had proclaimed
their independence. The state of Yucatán, which at that time encompassed
the entire peninsula, joined the Mexican union that same year.
Though independence brought new prosperity to the criollos, it wors-
ened the lot of the Maya. The end of Spanish rule meant that the Crown’s
few liberal safeguards, which had afforded the Maya minimal protection
from the most extreme forms of exploitation, were abandoned. Maya
claims to ancestral lands were largely ignored and huge plantations were
created for the cultivation of tobacco, sugarcane and henequen (a plant
Of the illustrated Maya
yielding rope fiber). The Maya, though legally free, were enslaved by
books called codices,
peonage to the great landowners.
only four survive to the
present day: the Dresden
Codex, Madrid Codex,
WAR OF THE CASTES
Beginnings
Paris Codex and Grolier
Just 20 years after independence Yucatán’s local government voted to
Codex.
break away from the union. Mexican president Santa Anna sent in troops
in 1843 but Yucatán’s forces managed to stave them off. Economic isol-
ation proved to be a more powerful incentive to return to the fold, how-
ever, and a treaty was signed with Mexico that same year. But, charging
that Mexico had failed to honor promised treaty concessions, Yucatán
again declared independence in 1846.
For the Yucatán Maya, independence from Mexico made little differ-
ence – they remained subordinate to a white elite – and insurrection was
never far off. In January 1847, indigenous rebels attacked Valladolid, ram-
1901 1910–20
Mexican army under Porfirio Díaz recaptures Maya-controlled Almost two million people die and the economy is shattered dur-
territory ing the Mexican Revolution
© Lonely Planet Publications
paging through the city in an orgy of killing and looting. Now alerted, the
Hispanic authorities caught a Maya batab (community leader) with a letter
detailing a plot to attack Tihosuco (in present-day Quintana Roo). He was
The Caste War of Yucatán,
shot at Valladolid. Undaunted, the plotters attacked the town of Tepich,
by Nelson Reed, is a
south of Tihosuco, killing several criollo families. Thus began the War of
page-turning account of
the Castes, which the rebels next took to Tihosuco. Supplied with arms and
the modern Maya’s insur-
ammunition by the British through Belize, they spread relentlessly across
rection against the criollo
the Yucatán, and in March 1848 the rebels took Valladolid.
elite and establishment
In little more than a year, the Maya revolutionaries had driven their
of an independent state.
oppressors from every part of the Yucatán except Mérida and the walled
city of Campeche. But then the rebels suddenly abandoned the attack
and went home to plant the corn they would need to carry on the fight.
This gave the criollos and mestizos time to regroup. Yucatán’s governor
appealed to England, Spain and the USA for protection from the indi-
genous rebels in exchange for annexation to any of those countries. Fi-
nally Yucatán rejoined the Mexican union, receiving aid from its former
adversary and regaining the upper hand against the insurgents.
1970s 1994
Mexico experiences an oil boom; tourist resorts are developed in The North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta) comes into
Cancún effect; Zapatista uprising starts in Chiapas
© Lonely Planet Publications
34 H I S T O R Y • • T h e Yu c a t á n T o d a y www.lonelyplanet.com
2000–1 2006
Vicente Fox of the PAN party is elected president; Yucatán elects The PAN party’s Felipe Calderón Hinojosa holds off leftist Manuel
PAN governor Patricio Patrón López Obrador in the 2006 election; results disputed by Obrador
© Lonely Planet Publications
35
The Culture
REGIONAL IDENTITY
Travelers often comment on the open, gentle and gregarious nature of
the Yucatecan Maya. Here more than elsewhere in Mexico, it seems, you
find a willingness to converse, a genuine interest in outsiders, while the
obsequious attitude often encountered elsewhere in the country is absent.
The Maya are a proud people and have a greater tendency to interact on
equal terms.
This openness is all the more remarkable when you consider that the Mexico Online (www
people of the Yucatán Peninsula have fended off domination by outsiders .mexonline.com) has
for so long, a situation that persists today. Heirs to the amazing civiliza- good history and culture
tion that flourished here before the upheaval of the Spanish conquest, links, and lots of other
the Maya remain second-class citizens in their own land. The best land information.
is owned or purchased by gringos, chilangos (natives of Mexico City) or
criollos (people of Spanish descent) and, with few exceptions, those filling
the desirable jobs and making infrastructure decisions are not Maya.
Despite their distinct history, the people of the Yucatán seem to share
many traits with other Mexicans. Like their compatriots in Oaxaca,
Chihuahua or Mexico City, they value highly family bonds, and are
only truly themselves within the context of the family. Though they
are hard-working people, they like to enjoy leisure pursuits to the full-
est, and there’s never a shortage of fiestas and fun. Yucatecans are also
deeply religious, though their faith is a mélange of pre-Hispanic beliefs
and Catholicism. As elsewhere, traditional gender roles may seem exag-
gerated to the outsider, though the level of machismo on the peninsula
is somewhat less pronounced.
LIFESTYLE
Perhaps more than elsewhere in Mexico, ancient rhythms and customs
form part of everyday life in Yucatán. In rural areas this is apparent on the
surface level. Women wear colorfully embroidered, loose-fitting huipiles Mesoweb (www
(sleeveless woven tunics) as they slap out tortillas in the yard, people live .mesoweb.com), Maya
in traditional oval thatched houses, rest in hammocks after a day’s work, Exploration Center (www
and consume a diet of corn, beans and chilies. And just by observing .mayaexploration.org)
people, you notice the striking resemblance between their faces and the and goMaya (www
portraits that appear in Classic-era sculpture and painting. .gomaya.com) are all
Even more so than in the rest of Mexico, the indigenous culture of fabulous resources on the
Yucatán has demonstrated a resiliency in making the transition to the Maya, past and present.
modern world. As TV beams into people’s homes, the culture has an
admirable ability to absorb outside influences without allowing them to
tear the social fabric.
Delving a bit deeper will uncover a far higher degree of identification
with indigenous culture on the peninsula than in other parts of the coun-
try. Various forms of Maya are widely spoken, pre-Hispanic religious
rituals are still observed and forms of social organization followed. In
some parts of the region, Maya languages prevail over Spanish, or Span-
ish may not be spoken at all. More than 30 Maya dialects exist, spoken
by up to three million people in southern Mexico and northern Central
America. Yucatecan Maya is the dialect spoken on the Yucatán Peninsula,
and some words and phrases appear on p293. Another dialect, Chol, is
used in parts of highland Chiapas; it is believed to most closely resemble
the one spoken by the Classic Maya.
© Lonely Planet Publications
36 T H E C U LT U R E • • P o p u l a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com
POPULATION
For more than a millennium the Maya of the Yucatán have intermarried
with neighboring and invading peoples. Most of Mexico’s population is
mestizo (mixture of indigenous and Spanish blood), but the Yucatán has
an especially high proportion of pure-blooded Maya, about four times
the national average. Yucatán state, with a 66% Maya population, has the
highest percentage of indigenous people of any of Mexico’s 31 states.
As in the rest of Mexico, people gravitate toward the cities. Of a total
In The Modern Maya:
peninsular population of approximately 3.3 million, more than half live
A Culture in Transition,
in the state of Yucatán and, of those, approximately 41% reside in the
author Macduff Everton
state capital, Mérida. The situation is similar in Campeche, where about
documents his period
45% of the population resides in two cities (Campeche and Ciudad del
among the Yucatecan
Carmen), and in Quintana Roo, where almost half the population call
Maya with superb black-
Cancún home.
and-white photos, while
Boasting the most productive employment profile, Quintana Roo is the
reflecting on the impact
fastest-growing of the Yucatán’s three states, attracting jobseekers from
of modern influences on
all over the republic. In particular, Playa del Carmen has seen a 30.5%
this resilient culture.
annual population increase, as opposed to a national average of 2.3%.
SPORTS
As elsewhere in Mexico, futbol (soccer) dominates schoolyards and play-
ing fields around the peninsula. Fans are customarily glued to their TV
sets to watch televised matches between Mexico’s top teams, such as
Guadalajara’s Chivas or Mexico City’s Águilas. Though the Yucatán has
no major-league team, Mérida’s Venados play in Division 1A, the next
best thing, while Campeche, Cancún, Cozumel, Chetumal and Ciudad
del Carmen all have 3rd Division clubs. There are two seasons, the Tor-
neo de Apertura (Opening Tournament; August to December), and the
Torneo de Clausura (Closing Tournament; January to May). Games are
played over the weekend; check newspapers for details.
Béisbol (baseball) is popular in Mexico. The level of professional play
is quite high, equivalent at least to AAA ball in the USA. The Mexican
League season runs from late March to July; among its teams are the
Piratas de Campeche (Campeche Pirates), Olmecas de Tabasco (Tabasco
Olmecs) and Leones de Yucatán (Mérida Lions).
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n 37
RELIGION
The Ancient Maya
WORLD-TREE & XIBALBÁ
For the Maya, the world, the heavens and the mysterious ‘unseen world’ or
underworld, called Xibalbá (shi-bahl-bah), were all one great, unified struc-
ture that operated according to laws of astrology and ancestor worship. The
towering ceiba tree was considered sacred. It symbolized the Wakah-Chan
(Yaxché, or World-Tree), which united the 13 heavens, the surface of the
earth and the nine levels of the underworld of Xibalbá. The World-Tree
had a sort of cruciform shape and was associated with the color blue-green.
The Maya developed two
In the 16th century, the Franciscan friars required the indigenous popula-
separate calendars (see
tion to venerate the cross; this Christian symbolism meshed easily with
p43), one of 260 days,
established Maya beliefs.
the second a 365-day
cycle that corresponds to
POINTS OF THE COMPASS
the solar year. The two
In Maya cosmology, each point of the compass had special religious sig-
cycles match up every 52
nificance. East was most important, as it was where the sun was reborn
years, a period referred to
each day; its color was red. West was black because it was where the sun
as the Long Count.
disappeared. North was white and was the direction from which the all-
important rains came, beginning in May. South was yellow because it was
the sunniest point of the compass.
Everything in the Maya world was seen in relation to these cardinal
points, with the World-Tree at the center, and they were the base for
the all-important astronomical and astrological observations that de-
termined fate.
BLOODLETTING
Just as the great cosmic dragon shed its blood, which fell to the earth as
rain, so humans had to shed blood to link themselves with Xibalbá.
As illustrated in various Maya stone carvings and painted pottery, the
nobility customarily drew their own blood on special occasions such
as royal births or deaths, crop plantings, victories on the battlefield or
accession to the throne. Blood represented royal lineage (as it does in
other societies), and so the blood of kings granted legitimacy to these
events. Often using the spine of a manta ray as a lancet, a noble would
pierce his cheek, lower lip, tongue or genitalia and pull a piece of rope
or straw through the resulting orifice to extract the sacred substance.
38 T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n www.lonelyplanet.com
SACRED PLACES
Maya ceremonies were performed in natural sacred places as well as in
their human-made equivalents. Mountains, caves, lakes, cenotes (sink-
The Sacred Texts website
holes containing water), rivers and fields were all sacred and had special
(www.sacred-texts.com
importance in the scheme of things. Pyramids and temples were thought
/nam/maya) features links
of as stylized mountains; sometimes they had secret chambers within
to English translations of
them, like the caves in a mountain. A cave was the mouth of the creature
the Popol Vuh and other
that represented Xibalbá, and to enter it was to enter the spirit of the
Maya writings.
secret world. This is why some Maya temples have doorways surrounded
by huge masks: as you enter the door of this ‘cave,’ you are entering the
mouth of Xibalbá.
The plazas around which the pyramids were placed symbolized the
open fields or the flat land of the tropical forest. What we call stelae were
to the Maya ‘tree-stones;’ that is, tree-effigies echoing the sacredness of
the World-Tree. These tree-stones were often carved with the figures of
great Maya kings, for the king was the World-Tree of Maya society.
As these places were sacred, it made sense for succeeding Maya kings
to build new and ever grander temples directly over older temples, en-
hancing the sacred character of the spot. The temple being covered over
was preserved as it remained a sacred artifact. Certain features of these
older temples, such as the large masks on the façades, were carefully pad-
ded and protected before the new construction was placed over them.
Ancestor worship and genealogy were very important to the Maya, and
when they buried a king beneath a pyramid, or a commoner beneath the
floor or courtyard of his or her na (thatched hut), the sacredness of the
location was increased.
Contemporary Yucatecans
Today’s Maya identify themselves as Catholic but they practice a Ca-
tholicism that is a fusion of shamanist-animist and Christian ritual. The
traditional religious ways are so important that often a Maya will try to
recover from a malady by seeking the advice of a religious shaman rather
than a medical doctor. Use of folk remedies linked with animist tradition
is widespread in Maya areas.
Roman Catholicism accounts for the religious orientation of 85%
of contemporary Yucatecans, while 12% of the Yucatán’s population
identify themselves as Protestants or evangelicals. Congregations af-
filiated with churches such as the Assemblies of God, the Seventh Day
Adventists, the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, and Jehovah’s
Witnesses can also be found in the Yucatán.
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 39
ARTS
The Yucatán’s arts and crafts scene is enormously rich and varied. The
influence of the Maya or Spanish cultures (or both) appears in almost
every facet of Yucatecans’ art, from their dance and music to the clothes
and hats they wear.
Pre-Hispanic Art
The Classic Maya, at their cultural height from about AD 300 to 900,
were perhaps ancient Mexico’s most artistic people. They left countless
Lavishly illustrated
beautiful stone sculptures, of complicated design and meaning but pos-
with sections of friezes,
sessing an easily appreciated delicacy of touch – a talent also expressed
sculpted figurines, and
in their unique architecture. Subjects are typically rulers, deities and
painted pottery and other
significant events.
fine specimens of Maya
art, The Blood of Kings,
Literature
by Linda Schele and Mary
Yucatán’s earliest known literary work is the Books of the Chilam Balam
Ellen Miller, deciphers
of Chumayel. Written in Maya after the conquest, it is a compendium
glyphs and pictographs
of Maya history, prophecy and mythology collected by priests from the
on these objects to elicit
northern Yucatán town of Chuyamel.
recurring themes of
Diego de Landa, the Spanish friar (see p31), could be said to have
Classic Maya civilization.
produced the first literary work in Spanish from the Yucatán, Relación
de las Cosas de Yucatán, in which he relates his biased perception of the
Maya’s ceremonial festivals, daily life and traditions, even as he engin-
eered their eradication.
Aside from (unsuccessfully) seeking US intervention against the Maya
during the War of the Castes, Justo Sierra O’Reilly is credited with writ-
ing what is possibly the first Mexican novel, La Hija del Judio. About the
ill-fated romance of a Jewish merchant’s daughter in colonial Mexico,
this superior work of fiction was originally published during the 1840s
as a series in Sierra’s Campeche newspaper, El Fénix, and later published
in its entirety.
© Lonely Planet Publications
40 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s www.lonelyplanet.com
In more recent times, the Yucatecan author Ermilio Abreu Gómez syn-
thesized the peninsula’s Maya heritage in fictional works like the novel
Canek: History and Legend of a Maya Hero, the story of an indigenous
laborer’s struggle against injustice.
Novelist, playwright and art critic Juan García Ponce, who died in
2003, is perhaps the Yucatán’s best-known modern literary figure. Im-
agen Primera (First Image) and La Noche (The Night), collections of his
short stories, make good starting points for exploring the Mérida-born
writer’s prolific output.
Music
Two styles of music are traditionally associated with the Yucatán: jaranas
(see below) and trova yucateca.
A type of festive dance music, a jaranas is generally performed by a
Guty Cárdenas, un Siglo
large ensemble consisting of two trumpets, two clarinets, one trombone,
del Ruiseñor, produced by
a tenor sax, timbales and a guiro (percussion instrument made from a
the prestigious Mexican
grooved gourd). The music pauses for the singers to deliver bombas –
record label Discos
ad-libbed verses, usually with a humorous double meaning, that are
Corasón (www.corason
aimed at the object of their affections. A jarana orchestra always ends
.com), includes a CD and
its performances with the traditional torito, a vivacious song that evokes
DVD covering the musical
the fervor of a bullfight.
career of this seminal
A hybrid of Cuban, Spanish, Colombian and homegrown influences,
Yucatecan composer/
the Yucatecan trova is a catchall term for romantic ballads, Cuban
performer.
claves, tangos, boleros, Yucatecan folk songs and other tunes that can be
strummed on a guitar by a trovador (troubador). The style is often played
by the guitar trios who roam the squares of Mérida, seeking an audience
to serenade. (The usual serenade consists of five songs.) In any discussion
of the trova, you’re likely to hear the name Guty Cárdenas, nicknamed the
‘Yucatecan nightingale.’ Cárdenas only recorded for five years during the
1920s, but he’s been remarkably influential. As with jaranas, the subject
matter is usually a suitor’s paean of love to an unattainable sweetheart.
March brings the Festival de Trova Yucateca to Mérida.
A more contemporary figure of Yucatecan song is Armando Manzan-
ero, the singer and composer from Mérida. Though Manzanero speaks
to an older generation, his songs are still being covered by contemporary
pop stars like Luis Miguel and Alejandro Sanz. He is best known for
heart-wrenching boleros such as Adoro, Te Extranõ, Contigo Aprendí and
Somos Novios (a tune that English speakers are more likely to know as
‘It’s Impossible’), many of which have taken their place in the canon of
Mexican standards.
Dance
The Spanish influence on Maya culture is abundantly evident in the
jarana, a dance Yucatecans have been performing for centuries. The dance
bears more than a passing resemblance to the jota, performed in Spain’s
Alto Aragón region. The movements of the dancers, with their torsos held
rigid and a formal distance separating men from women, are nearly identi-
cal; however, whereas the Spanish punctuate elegant turns of their wrists
with clicks of their castanets, Maya women snap their fingers.
The best place to see dancers perform to the accompaniment of jarana
is at vaquerías – homegrown fiestas held in the atriums of town halls or
on haciendas. The women wear their best embroidered huipiles, flowers
in their hair and white heels; men wear a simple, white cotton outfit
with a red bandanna tucked into the waist. In Mérida, vaquerías are held
weekly in the Plaza de Santa Lucía.
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 41
Handicrafts
TEXTILES
Women throughout the Yucatán Peninsula traditionally wear straight,
white cotton dresses called huipiles, the bodices of which are always
Chloe Sayer’s fascinating
embroidered. The tunic generally falls to just below the knee; on formal
Arts and Crafts of Mexico
occasions it is worn with a lacy white underskirt that reaches the ankle.
traces the evolution of
The huipil never has a belt, which would defeat its airy, cool design. Light,
crafts from pre-Hispanic
loose-fitting and traditionally made of cotton (synthetics are occasion-
times to the present, with
ally used today), these garments are ideally suited for the tropics. Maya
many fine photos.
women have been wearing huipiles for centuries.
Also commonly worn on the peninsula (and similar to the huipil in
appearance) is the gala terno, which is a straight, white, square-necked
dress with an embroidered overyoke and hem, worn over an underskirt
which sports an embroidered strip near the bottom. It is fancier than a
huipil and is often accompanied by a delicately hand-knitted shawl.
In addition to huipiles, galas ternos and shawls, Maya women through-
out the peninsula are known for weaving lovely sashes, tablecloths and
napkins.
PANAMA HATS
The classic woven straw hat that most people associate with Panama
was made internationally famous in the late 19th century by Ferdinand
de Lesseps, builder of the Suez Canal and the brains behind the failed
French attempt to build a canal in Panama.
The much-photographed Lesseps was balding when he arrived in
Panama, and he found that the light but durable hat provided excellent
The Crafts of Mexico is a
protection against the sun. Most newspaper photographs taken of him
gorgeously illustrated
here showed the larger-than-life figure looking even worldlier in his
coffee-table volume
exotic headgear. Soon men around the globe began placing orders for
focusing on ceramics and
the ‘panama hat.’
textiles, by Margarita de
Panama hats originated in Ecuador and were exported to Panama.
Orellana and Albertio Ruy
However, at least as early as the 1880s, residents of Bécal in the Mexican
Sánchez, editors of the
state of Campeche were producing the same style hat. Today, more than
superb magazine Artes
1000 people in the small, quiet town of Bécal are still making the hats,
de México.
which they variously call panamás or jipijapas (see p222 for details on
how the hats are made).
WOODEN CRAFTS
In handicrafts shops across the peninsula, you’ll come across beautiful
wooden crafts, such as carved wooden panels and galleons.
The ancient Maya made woodcarvings of their many gods, just as
they carved the images of their deities in stone. The skill and techniques
associated with the artistry survive to this day. The wooden panels are
often a meter or more in height and feature a strange-looking character
of unmistakably Maya imagination – the image will resemble figures
you’ve seen at Maya ruins. If the carved image is one of a heavily adorned
man raising a chalice, most likely you’re looking at a representation of
Itzamná, lord of the heavens; he’s a popular figure on the wooden panels
of contemporary Maya.
The Maya – so impressed with the Spanish galleons that arrived on
their shores that they made meter-long models of the ships, complete
with tiny sails – have been making wooden galleons for generations.
Today, the galleons that used to haul cargoes of hardwood back to Eur-
ope are gone, but the craft of galleon model-making is alive and well in
the Yucatán.
© Lonely Planet Publications
42 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s www.lonelyplanet.com
You can usually find carved wooden sailfish, turtles and parrots at the
same craft shops where you find the lovely wooden models of galleons.
Campeche is the state most associated with such items, but they are
made by accomplished artisans in the states of Yucatán and Quintana
Roo as well.
Architecture
Maya architecture is amazing for its achievements but perhaps even
more amazing for what it did not achieve. Maya architects never seem
to have used the true arch (a rounded arch with a keystone), and never
thought to put wheels on boxes for use as wagons to move the thou-
Joyce Kelly’s An Archaeo-
sands of tons of construction materials needed in their tasks. They had
logical Guide to Mexico’s
no metal tools – they were technically a Stone Age culture – yet could
Yucatán Peninsula gives
build breathtaking temple complexes and align them so precisely that
visitors both practical and
windows and doors were used as celestial observatories with great
background information
accuracy.
on 91 sites.
The arch used in most Maya buildings is the corbeled arch (or,
when used for an entire room rather than a doorway, corbeled vault).
In this technique, large flat stones on either side of the opening are
set progressively inward as they rise. The two sides nearly meet at the
top, and this ‘arch’ is then topped by capstones. Though they served
the purpose, the corbeled arches severely limited the amount of open
space beneath them. In effect, Maya architects were limited to long,
narrow vaulted rooms.
The Maya also lacked draft animals (horses, donkeys, mules, oxen). All
the work had to be done by humans, on their feet, with their arms and
backs, without wagons or even wheelbarrows.
MAYA ARCHITECTURE
Maya architecture’s 1500-year history saw a fascinating progression of
styles. Styles changed not just with the times, but with the particular
geographic area of Mesoamerica in which the architects worked. Not all
of the styles can be seen in the Yucatán.
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • T h e C e l e s t i a l P l a n 43
260-day Calendar
(Sacred Round) The Mayan Calendar System
Manik
Cimi
Chi
La
cch
ma
M
Ka
ul
n
uc
Ak
ba
l Oc
Pop Uo Zip Zotz Tzec
Ik Chuen
uac
Ca
Ix
b
n
’na
Cib
44 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s www.lonelyplanet.com
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 45
46
Environment
Arching northward between two seas like the head and shoulders of
a chac-mool sculpture as one Yucatecan poet put it, the Yucatán Pen-
insula has an insular character, in both its physical isolation from the
Mexican interior and its distinct topography and wildlife.
THE LAND
Separated from the bulk of Mexico by the Gulf of Mexico, and from
the Greater Antilles by the Caribbean Sea, the Yucatán Peninsula is a
vast, low limestone shelf extending under the sea for more than 100km
to the north and west. The eastern (Caribbean) side drops off much
more precipitously. This underwater shelf makes Yucatán’s coastline
Planeta.com (www
wonderful for aquatic sports, keeping the waters warm and the marine
.planeta.com) brims with
life abundant.
information and links for
Approaching by air, you can easily make out the barrier reef that runs
those wanting to delve
parallel the Caribbean coastline at a distance of a few hundred meters
deeper into Mexico and
to about 1.5km. Known variously as the Great Maya, Mesoamerican or
the Yucatán’s flora, fauna
Belize Barrier Reef, it’s the longest of its kind in the Northern Hemi-
and environment.
sphere, extending from southern Belize to Isla Mujeres off the northern
coast of Quintana Roo. On the landward side of the reef, the water is
usually no more than 5m to 10m deep; on the seaward side it plummets
to depths of more than 2000m in the Yucatán Channel running between
the peninsula and Cuba.
The peninsula is divided into three states in a ‘Y’ shape, with the state
of Yucatán occupying the upper portion, flanked to the west and east
by the states of Campeche and Quintana Roo respectively. Note that,
while Tabasco and Chiapas are included in this book, they are not part
of Yucatán.
Unlike much of Mexico, the Yucatán remains unobstructed by moun-
tains. It rises to no more than a dozen meters above sea level in its
northern section, and at its steepest, in the southern interior of Campeche
state, only reaches about 300m. About 60km south of Mérida, near Ticul,
the flat Yucatán plain gives way to the rolling hills of the Puuc (‘hill’ in
Around 10,000 cenotes
Maya) region.
(natural underground
Capped by the thinnest crust of soil, the peninsula is less product-
pools) dot the Yucatán
ive agriculturally than elsewhere in Mexico. Formed by cretaceous-era
peninsula.
sediments, its porous limestone bedrock does not allow rivers to flow
on its surface, except in short stretches near the sea where their roofs
have collapsed and in the southernmost reaches of the region where the
peninsula joins the rest of Mexico (and Guatemala). Some underground
streams don’t release their water until well offshore; others empty into
lagoons near the sea, such as the lovely Laguna Bacalar in southern
Quintana Roo.
A uniquely Yucatecan geological feature, cenotes (seh-noh-tays), from
the Maya word d’zonot meaning ‘water-filled cavern,’ are formed by the
erosive effects of rainwater drilling down through the limestone.
An estimated 10,000 of these sinkholes dot the peninsular landscape.
Yucatecans have traditionally gotten their fresh water from these natural
cisterns, while modern visitors favor their crystalline waters for swim-
ming and snorkeling (see p52). South of the Puuc region, the inhabitants
draw water from the chenes (limestone pools), more than 100m below
ground.
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe 47
WILDLIFE
The isolation of the Yucatán Peninsula and its range of ecosystems results
in an extraordinary variety of plant and animal life, including a number
of species that are unique to the region. Whether you like watching ex-
otic birds, following the progress of sea turtles as they nest on the beach,
swimming next to manta rays and schools of iridescent fish, or spying
wild cats through your binoculars, you’ll have plenty to do here.
Animals
BIRDS
For bird watchers, the Yucatán is indeed a banquet. Over 500 bird
species – about half of those found in the whole country – inhabit or
regularly visit the peninsula. These include dozens of regional endemics;
the island of Cozumel alone boasts three unique species.
Most of the peninsula’s birds are represented in the various parks and
biosphere reserves, and serious birders should make for at least a few of
Birders should carry Mexi-
these. Numerous coastal species can be spotted at the Ría Celestún (see
can Birds by Roger Tory
p184) and Ría Lagartos (see p204) Biosphere Reserves, on the western
Peterson and Edward L
and eastern ends of Yucatán state’s coast respectively. The varied pano-
Chalif or Birds of Mexico &
rama is due to a highly productive ecosystem where substantial fresh-
Adjacent Areas by Ernest
water sources empty into the Gulf of Mexico. A similarly diverse coastal
Preston Edwards.
habitat can be found at the Reserva de la Biósfera Laguna de Términos
(p227) in western Campeche. Isla Contoy (see p91), off the northern
coast of Quintana Roo, is a haven for olive cormorants, brown boobies
and many other seabirds.
Moving inland, the panorama shifts. The low, dry forests of the Puuc
region contain two species of mot-mot, which nest in ruined temples.
In the denser forests of the Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul, train your
binoculars on harpy eagles, ocellated turkey and king vultures.
HURRICANE WILMA
On October 22, 2005, Hurricane Wilma hit the Yucatán’s northeast coast – and stayed there for
more than 30 hours. The 13th hurricane of the turbulent 2005 season – and fourth to reach
Category 5 status – Wilma vented her worst forces on Isla Holbox, Cozumel, Puerto Morelos and
Cancún. Playa del Carmen and the Riviera Maya to the south were left largely unscathed.
The brunt of the devastation in Cancún was borne by the hotel zone (Zona Hotelera). Some
hotels were completely destroyed, many others seriously damaged. All told, the hurricane left
around US$2 billion in damages in the resort city. Even worse, Cancún’s famous white-sand
beaches were swept away by the storm.
The response by locals was rapid. By the following spring, most hotels were up and running
again, and the sand was back, after a Belgian firm was hired to dredge up and replace it at a
cost of US$19 million.
Critics say developers were only paying the price for recklessly putting up hotels in such a
vulnerable zone, with many structures in the Zona Hotelera being hazardously erected over landfill
in the Laguna Nichupté. If there is any benefit to the disaster, it may be that developers will pay
closer attention to storm-proofing their hotels in the future, as insurers raise their premiums and
demand that builders follow codes more closely.
The environmental wounds inflicted by Wilma could take much longer to heal. Many trees
were uprooted by the storm, leaving dead branches that will serve as fuel for fires, adding to
those left behind in the wake of Hurricane Isidore, which ravaged the state of Yucatán in 2002.
Cozumel acted as a buffer to protect the Riviera Maya from Wilma, but was walloped in the
process. Huge sections of the island’s coral reefs were obliterated and flora widely damaged,
putting a great deal of stress on animal habitats.
© Lonely Planet Publications
48 E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe www.lonelyplanet.com
SEA CREATURES
The Great Maya Barrier Reef, paralleling the length of Quintana Roo’s
coast, is home to some of the finest snorkeling and diving in the world,
a technicolor display of tremendous variety. The coney grouper, for
example, is impossible to miss in its bright-yellow suit (it varies in color
from reddish brown to sun yellow). The redband parrot fish is easy to
recognize by the striking red circle around its eyes and the red band that
runs from the eyes to the gills. Butterfly fish are as flamboyant as their
name suggests (there are six species in the area), and the yellow stingray
has spots that closely resemble the rosettes of a golden jaguar.
Providing an extraordinary backdrop to these brilliant stars of the sea
is a vast array of corals. These come in two varieties: hard corals, such as
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe 49
the great star coral, the boulder coral and numerous brain corals; and soft
corals, such as sea fans and sea plumes, which are particularly delicate
and sway with the current. Successive generations of coral form a skin
of living organisms over the limestone reef.
Complementing the experience is a water temperature that seldom
dips below 77°F (27°C) and an amazing level of visibility. Because this
coast contains not a single exposed river (many underground rivers
do present themselves as they near the sea, but they carry very little
soil), there’s practically no sediment to cloud the water. The crystalline
condition is only compromised during or after a storm, and for several
weeks around April–May and September–October when reef animals and
plants release zillions of eggs and droplets of sperm.
The Selva de Norte, which
spans the southern part
ENDANGERED SPECIES
of the Yucatán Peninsula
Pollution, poaching, illegal traffic of rare species and the filling in of
and northern Guatemala
coastal areas for yet another resort are taking an enormous toll on the
and Belize, is the world’s
Yucatán’s wildlife. However, the biggest killer of all is deforestation.
second-largest tropical
Since 1960, more than five million hectares of forest have been felled in
forest after the Amazon.
the Yucatán. Species on the peninsula that are threatened with extinc-
tion include five species of cat (jaguar, puma, the ocelot, the margay,
and the jaguarundi), four species of sea turtle, the manatee, the tapir and
hundreds of bird species, including the harpy eagle, the red flamingo and
the jabiru stork.
Various efforts are being made to save these and other endangered
creatures from extinction, chiefly by environmental NGOs such as Prona-
tura (%999-988-4436; www.pronatura-ppy.org.mx; Calle 32 No 269, Col Pinzón, Mérida). This
group focuses on preservation of wildlife habitats, particularly in the Ría
Celestún, Ría Lagartos and Calakmul biosphere reserves, as well as the
promotion of ecotourism. In particular, Pronatura is working to recover
jaguar habitat in the area between the Reserva de la Biósfera Ría Lagartos
and Isla Holbox, where 120 to 200 of these cats roam.
Camps at Ría Lagartos, Laguna de Términos and Isla Holbox have
been established to promote the survival of the six species of marine
turtle that nest on the Yucatán’s beaches. Volunteers collect turtle eggs
and release hatchlings into the sea, and patrols prevent poachers from
snatching eggs that are laid on the beaches. In Punta Laguna (p130)
environmental groups are working with local campesinos (agricultural
workers) to establish protection zones for endangered spider monkeys,
which are closely monitored by researchers. The nutrient-rich waters
around Isla Holbox attract whale sharks, which are threatened by com-
mercial fishing, and environmentalists have succeeded in getting this area
categorized as a protected zone.
Plants
Vegetation varies greatly on the peninsula, with plants falling into four
main categories: aquatic and subaquatic vegetation, and humid and sub-
humid forests. As you move inland from the coast, mangrove swamps
are replaced first by a fairly dense forest of low deciduous trees, then
by a more jungly zone with tall trees and climbing vegetation and more
than a few air plants (but without the soggy underbrush and multiple
canopies you’d find further south). The taller trees of the peninsula’s
southern half harbor more than 100 species of orchid; for the really
spectacular blooms, the avid orchid hunter will need to head into the
highlands of Chiapas, where the exotic plants thrive at an elevation of
about 1000m.
© Lonely Planet Publications
50 E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s & R e s e r v e s www.lonelyplanet.com
Dispersed among the mango and avocado trees are many annuals and
perennials, such as the aptly named flamboyán (royal poinciana), bursting
into bloom like a red-orange umbrella, and lavender-tinged jacaranda.
RESPONSIBLE TOURISM
Travelers can help protect the Yucatán’s environment by taking the following steps.
Hire local guides. Not only does this provide local communities a more ecologically sound
way of supporting themselves, it also attaches value to nature and wildlife.
Avoid places that exploit wildlife for cheap thrills, eg taking pictures of the kids with a mon-
key, swimming with dolphins, turtle riding.
Try to observe wildlife in its natural environment.
Don’t buy souvenirs made from endangered plants and animals that have been acquired
illegally. By purchasing these items you aid in their extinction.
Don’t carry off anything that you pick up at the site of an ancient city or out on a coral reef.
Don’t buy these products if offered by locals.
When snorkeling or scuba diving, be careful what you touch and where you place your feet;
not only can coral cut you, but it’s extremely fragile and takes years to grow even a finger’s
length.
Keep water use down, especially in areas that have signs requesting you to do so. Most of
the Yucatán Peninsula has limited water reserves, and in times of drought the situation can
become grave.
© Lonely Planet Publications
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Large-scale tourism developments are affecting and sometimes erasing
fragile ecosystems, especially along the ‘Riviera Maya’ south of Can-
cún. Many hectares of vital mangrove swamp have been bulldozed, and
beaches where turtles once laid eggs are now occupied by resorts and
vacationers, or permanent housing. Ironically, tourism development is
a major contributor to coastal erosion, as was made evident when 2005s
Hurricane Wilma swept away the very beaches that attract hordes of
tourists annually. And with the proliferation of new hotels comes the
need for freshwater sources, increasing the danger of salinization of the
water table. As employment seekers converge on Quintana Roo’s tourist
Tropical Mexico – The
zones, demand for building materials to construct makeshift housing for
Ecotravellers’ Wildlife
the burgeoning population is a persistent issue.
Guide by Les Beletsky
Another key issue is fragmentation of habitat. As patches of jungle
is a well illustrated,
shrink with new settlement and construction of new highways, they be-
informative guide to the
come isolated and species become trapped in smaller habitats. Animals’
land, air and sea life of
movements are restricted and the gene pool cannot flow beyond the
southeastern Mexico.
borders of their fragmented habitat.
Mexico’s largest oil field, the Cantarell complex, is in the Bay of
Campeche 85km off the shore of Ciudad del Carmen. Many local resi-
dents of the Isla del Carmen are concerned that Pemex, the state-run oil
company, does not have adequate environmental controls in place to
prevent a major spillage. But the output of the Cantarell field has been
declining for some time, adding urgency to Pemex’s exploration efforts.
As the company seeks new sources in the Alacranes reef off the coast
of Progreso, and at Laguna de Términos, further habitat destruction is
feared.
Through the efforts of nongovernmental environmental groups such
as Pronatura, the level of protection on reserves has increased in recent
years, and new reserves have been established and corridors extended.
In 2005, for example, the Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul was expanded
to 150,000 hectares. However, Yucatán’s protected zones and reserves
actually encompass private ejido (communally owned land) occupied by
campesinos, whose activities, particularly cattle raising and logging, may
infringe upon the environment. Seeking a solution, some environmental
organizations have begun training ejido inhabitants as guides for ecotour-
ism activities, thus providing alternative livelihoods. Such programs are
under way in the Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul and on Isla Holbox.
The boxed text, opposite, suggests how you can do your bit by being
a responsible traveler.
© Lonely Planet Publications
52
Yucatán Outdoors
Few places in the world have more to offer in the way of outdoor activ-
ities than the Yucatán. Come here to rip across warm surf beneath the
wind-filled parabola of a kiteboard. Dive into a wonderland of colorful
corals or fanciful fish, or watch as eagle ray flotillas soar past through
the perfect addictive blue. Leap off limestone ridges into the crystal wa-
ters of Yucatán’s mysterious, otherworldly cenotes – or cave dive them,
experiencing an eerie weightlessness as you swim through stalactite-
dotted caverns.
The Yucatán’s amazing biological preserves offer hikers, kayakers
and other outdoor wanderers the chance to spot birds and animals few
people still see in the wild. Even the quickest of detours brings you face
There are only two kinds
to face with everything you thought you’d only see on television. It’s all
of divers: those who pee
right here.
in their wetsuits, and
Whatever your pleasure, be it the heart-stopping rush hanging on to a
those who lie about it.
jungle-canopy zipline or a quiet stroll along a romantic, secluded beach
at sunset, the Yucatán has what you’re looking for. Don’t hesitate to step
outside the lines or do something on the spur of the moment. Those
moments are likely to be the best ones of your whole trip.
DIVING CENOTES
When you find yourself yawning at the green morays, eagle rays, dolphins, sea turtles, nurse
sharks, and multitudinous tropical fish, you’re ready to dive a cenote (a deep limestone sinkhole
containing water). Hook up with a reputable dive shop and prepare for (in the immortal words of
Monty Python) ‘something completely different.’ You’ll be lucky if you see four fish on a typical
cenote dive. Trade brilliance for darkness, blue for black, check that your regulator is working
flawlessly, and enter a world unlike anything you’ve ever dived before. Soar around stalactites
and stalagmites, hover above cake-frosting formations, and glide around in tunnels that will
make you think you’re in outer space.
Keep in mind these are fragile environments. Avoid applying sunscreen right before entering.
Use care when approaching, entering, or exiting, as the rocks are often slippery. Loud noises
such as yelling disturb bats and other creatures – though most people find themselves subdued
by the presence in these caverns. In rare cases, tourists have been seriously injured or killed by
climbing on the roots or stalactites.
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com Y U C AT Á N O U T D O O R S • • D i v i n g & S n o r k e l i n g 53
ὈὈ
0 20 km
DIVE SITES (RIVIERA MAYA) 0 12 miles
A B C
Isla
Holbox
El Cuyo Porvenir Parque
Holbox Nacional
Laguna 4
1 Yalahán Isla
Boca Iglesia Contoy
Chiquilá
Isla
Yucatán Laguna Blanca
Chacmochuk
Isla Mujeres
Punta
Colonia Sam
Yucatán San Puerto Juárez
Ángel Quintana Cancún
Roo
Airport
2 Kantunilkin
MEX
180
Punta
Nizuc
La Esperanza
Vicente
Guerrero
Punta
Caracol
El Ideal Aqua 6
Nuevo Azul Puerto Morelos
Xcan Guadalupe
Xcan Victoria
MEX
307 February and March are
Tres Ríos Punta
CARIBBEAN the worst months for the
Tres Reyes Zona de Lagunas Sacbe Maroma SEA el nortes winds, which
y Cenotes
3 Punta can close ports and
Playa del
Airport
Carmen
Molas
frustrate divers.
Ὀ
Xcaret 7
Cenote Airport
Katan Chi Paamul
Xpu-Há San Miguel
Cobá 2 de Cozumel
Laguna Isla
Akumal Cozumel
El Continente
Ὀ
Laguna 5
Nochacam 1 Chemuyil
3
Xcacel Xel-Há
8 Cenote Dos Ojos.......1 A4
Punta Solimán
Chankanaab..............2 B3
ᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲᝲ
Tankah Bahías de Punto Punta
Celarain El Mirador.................3 C4
4 Tulum 9 Solimán
Tulum Parque Marino Isla Contoy................4 C1
Nacional Arrecifes Palancar Gardens.......5 B4
de Cozumel Puerto Morelos..........6 C3
ᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲᝲ
To Cenote Punta Norte..............7 C3
Azul (10km); Punta Sur...................8 B4
Cenote Angelita Laguna To Banco Chinchorro
Chunyaxché Boca Paila Dive Sites (160km) Tulum.......................9 B4
(17km)
54 Y U C AT Á N O U T D O O R S • • K a y a k i n g www.lonelyplanet.com
KAYAKING
For those who like to keep their head above water, consider renting a kayak
and exploring the shoreline or a mangrove swamp. Yucatán’s coastal la-
goons and sheltered bays make for magnificent kayaking, and there’s often
interesting wildlife to be seen among the mangrove thickets. It’s uncom-
mon to see manatees (unheard of now in the Cancún area) but possible in
areas such as Punta Allen (p131) or Xcalak (p135), if you’re lucky. Even if
you don’t see a manatee, you’ll spot amazing bird life: herons, egrets, storks,
bitterns, and (in the right places) even flamingos or roseate spoonbills,
ducks and migratory shorebirds as you glide the unpaddled pathways.
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com Y U C AT Á N O U T D O O R S • • K i t e b o a r d i n g & W i n d s u r f i n g 55
If you have your own kayak, one excellent place to go would be the
Peninsula de Atasta (p229), which is a network of rivers and lagoons west
of the main lagoon, a great place to look at birds and wildlife. You’d need
to hire a guide as you could easily get lost in the back canals.
You’ll find that many hotels and inns have kayaks for rent or for guests’
use. One place that organizes kayak tours is Hostal del Pirata (p217)
in Campeche. It goes kayaking at the Los Petenes biosphere reserve, a
network of mangroves north of the city, and around the Isla de Jaina,
which is an archaeological site on a small island up the coast. Hostal
The terms ‘kiteboarding’
del Pirata also offers tarpon fishing. Kayaking tours can be booked from
and ‘kitesurfing’ are
Cancún (p73).
interchangeable.
You can rent equipment on the Caribbean coast at Cancún, Isla Hol-
box, Tres Ríos, or at Playa Palancar near Cozumel. You can also get
out onto the water at Rancho Punta Venado, Bahías de Punta Solimán,
Tankah and Xcalak. The Laguna de Bacalar offers some freshwater ad-
venture opportunities.
HIKING
Hiking is a wonderful way to enjoy Yucatán’s many outdoor delights.
Ruin-hoppers will find that even relatively flat areas such as Chichén
Itzá (p191) offer one or two hours of strenuous – even difficult – walk-
ing, especially around the midday heat. Bring a hat and lots of water.
Less visited areas such as Dzibanché (p147) and Kohunlich (p148) offer
beautiful vistas from the tops of the structures, and lots of small trails
through truly awesome jungle. The walking tours on Isla Contoy (p91)
afford great opportunities to see bird life.
Hiking tours to wilderness areas are also available with companies
located at the larger towns such as Mérida (p160), Xpujil (p233) and
San Cristóbal de Las Casas (p241). Many companies combine walks in
national parks with visits to Maya sites.
© Lonely Planet Publications
56 Y U C AT Á N O U T D O O R S • • C y c l i n g www.lonelyplanet.com
CYCLING
The relatively flat terrain of most of the Yucatán Peninsula can make
pedaling an attractive option, though it’s best to steer clear of busy roads
where possible. Valladolid has a nice 5km bike trail to its nearby cenotes
(p199). Campeche has a bike trail along its malecón (seafront promenade;
p214) that would make for a pleasant spin.
Bicycles are available for rent at the hostels in Campeche (p216), Isla
Mujeres (p91), Cozumel (p114), Tulum (p127), Cobá (p128), Mahahual
(p134), Río Lagartos (p205) and Valladolid (p202).
See p275 for some tips on cycling in the Yucatán.
www.lonelyplanet.com Y U C AT Á N O U T D O O R S • • Fi s h i n g 57
FISHING
The Caribbean coast has some good sport fishing. The area around Punta
Allen is famous for its catch-and-release fly fishing. Also in the southeast,
anglers enjoy throwing out a line around Akumal and Xcalak. Further
north, fishing can be done on Isla Mujeres and around Cozumel. In Yuca-
tán state, the popular areas are Río Lagartos and San Felipe.
58 Y U C AT Á N O U T D O O R S • • T h e Q u i e t O u t d o o r s www.lonelyplanet.com
to be found – some would say too much. In order to dig a ball out of
sandy holes or oversized puddles you often have to sacrifice a whole lot of
mangroves: it’s hard to justify in a place such as Yucatán, where develop-
ments on these fragile areas have such an immediate, directly detrimental
effect. But we know some addicts can’t be cured and golf does provide
an accessible outdoor pursuit.
Parks and plazas are an integral part of Mexican and Yucatecan life,
one that’s often overlooked as we tourists dash about from one must-see
sight to another. Yet few activities offer a better insight into the lifestyle
and character of a town than a few hours spent people-watching in
an outdoor park. It’s a great opportunity to chat with locals: put the
guidebook down for a while and get their suggestions on where to eat
or what to see.
© Lonely Planet Publications
59
Soups are common local fare in markets and food stalls throughout the
peninsula. Sopa de lima is chicken soup for the Yucatecan soul, with strips
of toasted tortilla and a slice of lime. Caldo de pavo, turkey soup, is a popu-
lar evening snack often accompanied by a few panuchos. Puchero is a hearty
beef or chicken stew brimming with squash, yams and other vegetables and
served with garnishes of radishes, onions, cilantro and other herbs.
Turkey is still offered up to the gods in rituals (see p62). Like pork and
Since before the arrival of
chicken, it is usually flavored with a recado – a marinade of sour oranges,
the Europeans, turkey has
chilies and other condiments. One popular poultry variation is relleno
been the basis of many
negro, laced with a savory jet-black sauce that’s based on burned chiles
Yucatán dishes.
secos (dried chilies). Turkey is also prepared en escabeche – in a vinegary
marinade that also lends flavor to the accompanying onions and carrots.
One dish that Mexicans automatically associate with Yucatán is co-
chinita pibil, barbecued suckling pig that is traditionally wrapped in
banana leaves and roasted in a hole in the ground called a pib. Nowadays
it’s more likely to be done in an oven. Usually stuffed into tacos or piled
atop panuchos, cochinita pibil is available all over; you can watch it being
made at Restaurante Kinich-Kakmó in Izamal (p191). Frijoles con puerco
is Yucatán’s take on pork and beans. And be sure to try poc chuc, thinly
sliced pork that is sweetly marinated and grilled over coals. Maní, in
central Yucatán, is one good place to sample it.
Whether it’s pompano (a local fish) in Playa del Carmen or crab claws in
Campeche, fresh seafood is a major component on the menu along the pe-
ninsula’s Caribbean and Gulf coasts. The day’s catch – which might include
mero (grouper), pargo (snapper), esmedregal (jackfish) or the much coveted
boquinete (a kind of croaker) – is usually fried in oil and spread with garlic
sauce. One variation, available in Progreso, is tikin-xik, where the fish is
brushed with a chili marinade and grilled in a banana-leaf jacket. Shrimp,
oysters and octopus go into cocktails and empanadas, or may be seasoned
a la diabla – in a spicy chipotle sauce. The coastal lagoons of the Gulf, such
as Celestún and Laguna de Términos, are renowned for their fresh crab,
which may be served in salads or in a spicy chilpachol (soup).
Tropical fruit is thrillingly varied, and cheap, and you’ll probably get to
try some things you’ve never seen back home. Tour around the markets
to survey the offerings: in addition to mangoes and papayas, you may see
cayumito (purple plumlike fruit with fleshy white inside), zapote negro
(black fruit with a pearlike consistency), maranõn (cashew fruit) and ready-
to-eat fruit served with chili. Virtually anything can be made into juices or
aguas frescas (see opposite), or toppings for raspados, an ice dessert.
Meals
Mexicans eat three meals a day: desayuno (breakfast), comida (lunch)
and cena (supper). The simplest breakfast is coffee or tea and pan dulce
Huevos motuleños (eggs
(sweet rolls), a basket of which is set on the table; you pay for the number
Motul style; fried eggs
consumed. Many restaurants offer combination breakfasts for US$3 or
bathed in tomato sauce
US$4, typically composed of fruit or juice, and eggs which are served in a
and topped with peas
variety of ways. A Yucatecan breakfast favorite is huevos motuleños, eggs
and served on a bed
Motul style. Fresh tortillas are spread with refried beans, then topped
of tortillas spread with
with an egg or two, chopped ham, green peas and shredded cheese, with
refried beans) are named
a few slices of fried banana on the side. La comida, the biggest meal of
after Motul, a town east
the day, is usually served between 2pm and 4pm. Many restaurants offer
of Mérida.
not only à-la-carte fare but also special fixed-price menús called comida
corrida or menú del día. Typically you’ll get three or four courses for
about US$4. La cena is usually lighter than the comida, and may consist
of a couple of tamales and atole (see opposite).
© Lonely Planet Publications
GREEN IS GOOD
Many of Yucatán’s beaches are lined with coconut trees, and their fruit is delicious to eat and
drink. The sweet juice chiefly consists of mineral-rich, naturally filtered water that’s said to be
very good for the kidneys. Coconut juice and coconut flesh are best consumed when the husk is
green; when it’s brown, the flesh has hardened and the juice has begun to sour. Naturally fallen
coconuts are decomposing and should not be eaten.
Tapping the juice and exposing the flesh is a tricky matter best attempted with a machete. A
small machete will probably cost under US$10: a wise buy if you intend to spend a lot of time
at secluded beaches, where purified water won’t be readily available.
To get to the juice, stand the coconut on end so that its stem faces the ground. Hack the
pointy top of the coconut at a 45-degree angle, rotate the fruit one-fifth and repeat. Do this
until a portion of the shell about the length of your thumb is exposed; the husk will peel out
and away from the exposed shell as you hack.
Next, carefully strike the bared shell until you’ve made a hole in it that extends through the
flesh. Tilt your head back and enjoy the refreshing juice. Once it’s gone, place the coconut on
the ground and split it to get at the meat. It’s best scooped out of the shell with a spoon, but
fingers work fine too.
Getting your hands on a coconut can be a problem. The easiest way is to pay: where there
are coconut trees, there is usually a kid around who’ll happily climb a tree and liberate a few
nuts for US$1 or so. If you’re on your own, pick up a fallen coconut and heave it, bowling-ball
style, at a bunch on the tree. You can drop several coconuts with a well-aimed throw – just
watch your head and passers-by!
DRINKS
In the heat of the Yucatán, thirst-quenching is a major concern. Don’t
drink any water unless you know it has been purified or boiled (see p286).
You can buy bottles of inexpensive purified or mineral water everywhere
on the peninsula, and they are must-carry items on day trips. Better yet,
buy one and refill it from your hotel’s supply of drinking water.
Nonalcoholic Drinks
ATOLE, COFFEE & TEA
Not only is corn eaten at every opportunity, it is also drunk in the form
of atole, a corn-based beverage that is served hot and may be flavored
with chocolate, guava or cinnamon. It’s a standard accompaniment to
breakfast tamales.
Though coffee grown in Chiapas, Oaxaca and Veracruz states is among
the world’s best, the version served in Mexican cafés and restaurants
is often weak and disappointing. Aficionados can score a good latte in
touristy towns such as Mérida and Cancún, but elsewhere you may have
to forgo your fix. Similarly, tea is usually the generic bagged kind, though
fancier varieties can be found in some urbanized areas.
Aguas frescas are made by mixing fresh fruit juice or seed extracts with
sugar and water, and served ice-cold. You will usually see them in big
glass jars at juice stands. Common varieties are watermelon or the slightly
gelatinous chía con limón (lemon mixed with seeds of chía – a desert
sage); also look for more exotic versions. Agua de jamaica, made from hi-
biscus flowers, and agua de horchata, a rice-based drink that is sweetened
and may be blended with coconut, are guaranteed thirst-quenchers.
SOFT DRINKS
Refrescos are bottled or canned soft drinks, and they include some interest-
ing and tasty local varieties. Sidral and Manzanita are reasonable apple-
flavored fizzy drinks. There’s also a nonalcoholic variety of sangria.
Many brands of agua mineral (mineral water) from Mexican springs
are available – Peñafiel and Garci Crespo are two of the best and can
sometimes be obtained in refreshing flavors, as well as plain.
Alcoholic Drinks
Breweries were established in Mexico by German immigrants in the late
19th century. Mexico’s several large brewing companies now produce
more than 25 brands of cerveza (beer), some of which are quite good.
Each major company has a premium beer, such as Bohemia; several
standard beers, such as Carta Blanca, Superior and Dos Equis; and ‘popu-
lar’ beers, such as Corona, Tecate and Modelo. All are blond lagers meant
to be served chilled – it’s a good idea to ask for una cerveza fría (a cold
beer). Each of the large companies also produces a negra (or oscura,
dark) beer, such as Negra Modelo. Local Yucatán beers include the lager
Montejo, and the tasty dark León Negra.
The traditional Maya spirit in the Yucatán is xtabentún (shtah-behn-
toon), an anise-flavored liqueur that, when authentic, is made by ferment-
ing honey. Most modern versions of it have a goodly proportion of grain
neutral spirits, and some are very thick. Argáez is quite a good brand.
Rum is a perennial favorite in this part of the world. Foreign liquors are
widely available, too.
CELEBRATIONS
During the spring ch’a chaak ceremony, which takes place in agricul-
tural villages around the peninsula, tortillas and turkey are traditionally
offered up to the rain gods – then eaten. The tortillas are made into
‘layer cakes’, with ground squash seeds, beans or other vegetables placed
© Lonely Planet Publications
Useful Phrases
Are you open?
¿Está abierto? e·sta a·byer·to
For help with
Are you serving breakfast/lunch/dinner now?
pronunciation of food
¿Ahora, está sirviendo desayuno/ a·o·ra e·sta ser·vyen·do de·sa·yoo·no/
items, see p287.
la comida/la cena? la ko·mee·da/la se·na
I’d like to see a menu.
Quisiera ver la carta/el menú. kee·sye·ra ver la kar·ta/el me·noo
I’m a vegetarian.
Soy vegetariano/a. (m/f ) soy ve·khe·te·rya·no/a
I can’t eat anything with meat or poultry products, including broth.
No puedo comer algo de carne o aves, no pwe·do ko·mer al·go de kar·ne o a·ves
incluyendo caldo. een·kloo·yen·do kal·do
Is it (spicy) hot?
¿Es picoso? es pee·ko·so
The check, please.
La cuenta, por favor. la kwen·ta por fa·vor
Food Glossary
MEAT & POULTRY
a la parilla a la pa·ree·ya grilled
a la plancha a la plan·cha pan-broiled
aves a·ves poultry
bistec bis·tek steak
borrego bo·re·go sheep
carne (asada) kar·ne (a-sa-da) meat (grilled beef )
carne de puerco kar·ne de pwer·ko pork
carne de res kar·ne de res beef
chicharrones chee·cha·ro·nes deep-fried pork skin
chorizo cho·ree·so Mexican-style sausage made with chili and vinegar
frijol con puerco fri·khol kon pwer·ko Yucatecan-style pork and beans, with grilled
tomatoes, and garnishes; served with rice
jamón kha·mon ham
lechón le·chon suckling pig
pavo pa·vo turkey
pibil pee·beel meat wrapped in banana leaves, flavored with
achiote, garlic, sour orange, salt and pepper, and
baked in a pit oven; two varieties are cochinita
pibil (suckling pig) and pollo pibil (chicken)
picadillo pee·ka·dee·yo a ground beef filling that often includes fruit
and nuts
poc-chuc poc·chook pork strips marinated in sour orange juice,
grilled and served with a spicy onion relish
© Lonely Planet Publications
SEAFOOD
calamar ka·la·mar squid
camarones ka·ma·ro·nes shrimp
cangrejo kan·gre·kho large crab
ceviche se·vee·che raw fish, marinated in lime juice
filete fee·le·te fillet
langosta lan·gos·ta lobster
mariscos ma·rees·kos shellfish
ostiones os·tyo·nes oysters
pescado pes·ka·do fish as food
pulpo pool·po octopus
EGGS
(huevos) estrellados (hwe·vos) es·tre·ya·dos fried (eggs)
huevos motuleños hwe·vos mo·too·le·nyos ‘Motul-style eggs;’ fried eggs atop a tortilla,
garnished with beans, peas, chopped ham,
sausage, grated cheese and a little spicy chili
huevos rancheros hwe·vos ran·che·ros fried eggs served on a corn tortilla, topped with
a sauce of tomato, chilies and onions
huevos revueltos hwe·vos re·vwel·tos scrambled eggs
SOUP
caldo kal·do broth or soup
consomé con·so·may broth made from a chicken or mutton base
sopa so-pa soup, either ‘wet’ or ‘dry’ as in rice and pasta
sopa de lima so-pa duh lee-ma ‘lime soup’; chicken broth with bits of shredded
chicken, tortilla strips, lime juice and chopped lime
SNACKS
antojitos an·to·khee·tos ‘little whims,’ corn- and tortilla-based snacks
such as tacos and gorditas
empanada em·pa·na·da pastry turnover filled with meat, cheese or fruits
enchiladas en·chee·la·das corn tortillas dipped in chili sauce, wrapped
around meat or poultry and garnished with cheese
gordita gor·dee·ta thick, fried tortilla, stuffed with eggs, sausage
etc, and topped with lettuce and cheese
panuchos pa·noo·chos Yucatán’s favorite snack: a handmade tortilla
stuffed with mashed black beans, fried till it
puffs up, then topped with shredded turkey or
chicken, onion and slices of avocado
papadzules pa·pad·zoo·les tortillas stuffed with chopped hard-boiled eggs
and topped with a sauce of marrow squash
(zucchini) or cucumber seeds
papas fritas pa·pas free·tas french fries
quesadilla ke·sa·dee·ya cheese and other items folded inside a tortilla
and fried or grilled
relleno negro re·ye·no ne·gro turkey stuffed with chopped, spiced pork and
served in a rich, dark sauce
© Lonely Planet Publications
(queso) relleno (ke·so) re-le-no stuffed (cheese), Dutch edam filled with minced
meat and spices
salbutes sal-boo-tes same as panuchos but without the bean stuffing
sope so-pe thick corn-dough patty lightly grilled, served
with salsa, beans, onions and cheese
torta tor-ta sandwich in a roll, often spread with beans and
garnished with avocado slices
DESSERTS
helado e·la·do ice cream
nieve nye·ve sorbet
pastel pas·tel cake
postre pos·tre dessert
DRINKS
agua de jamaica a·gwa kha·may·ka a cold tangy tea made from hibiscus flowers
agua mineral a·gwa mee·ne·ral mineral water or club soda
agua purificado a·gwa poo·ree·fee·ka·do bottled uncarbonated water
atole a·to·le corn-based hot drink with cinnamon or fruit
café (con leche) ka·fe (kon le·che) coffee (with hot milk)
café americano ka·fe a·me·ree·ka·no black coffee
caguama ka·gwa·ma liter bottle of beer
horchata hor·cha·ta rice drink
jugo de naranja khoo·go de na·ran·kha orange juice
leche le·che milk
té negro te ne·gro black tea
66
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Quintana Roo
The oddly shaped, oddly named eastern edge of the Yucatán Peninsula lives up to just about
every expectation. Its white-sand beaches are lined with picture-perfect coconut palms and
rimmed by turquoise-green water. Divers come here for great visibility (often 30m or more),
for the jewel of Cozumel, and for the longest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere. The
parks and reserves are a wildlife-lover’s wonderland, hosting howler and spider monkeys,
jaguars, ocelots, bandicoots and hundreds of species of unique birds.
Quintana Roo (kin-tah-nah roh) is just as fascinating underground: the state’s unique
cenotes (limestone caves filled with fresh water) are otherworldly. Many of them were used
by the Maya for religious rituals and some still contain artifacts from those ancient days of
sacrifice and sun-worship. Paradoxically, the state’s other claim to fame is its partying in and
around Cancún, particularly during the US college spring break. But, if you are looking to
get away from it all, head to Isla Holbox, Tulum, or Xcalak, where it’s easy to stake a claim
on a stretch of sand and feel like it’s your own.
In 2004 two hurricanes, Emily and Wilma, walloped Cancún and its surrounding coastline,
damaging many of the shallower snorkeling reefs and putting some tourist spots under
water. While the full recovery may take years, much damage was already hard to notice by
2006, except for the random mammoth-sized ferry tossed up on top of the palm trees like
God’s bathtub toy. Another kind of hurricane is also having an effect; real-estate develop-
ment is booming along the Riviera Maya, gobbling up mangrove swamps, barrier beaches
and estuaries. It remains to be seen how well the area can balance the influx of tourists
with the protection of its fragile ecological patrimony.
HIGHLIGHTS Isla Holbox
Isla Mujeres
Sunbathe on perfect beaches or start a long-awaited vacation Cancún
bender in Cancún (opposite) or at the more relaxed
Isla Mujeres (p84)
Cozumel
Swim with dolphins at Isla Holbox (p92)
Tulum
Dive with eagle rays and morays at Cozumel
(p104)
Go iguana-spotting among the mysterious,
spectacularly situated ruins of Tulum (p121)
Watch the Río-style dancers of Chetumal
(p138) heat up the nights during Carnaval Dzibanché
Chetumal
Marvel at Jurassic-like jungles amid the Kohunlich
mysterious ruins of Kohunlich (p148) and
Dzibanché (p147)
www.lonelyplanet.com CANCÚN •• Orientation 67
Q U I N TA N A R O O
are reasonable (for Cancún, that is) and
CANCÚN food is great: seafood and traditional Yu-
catecan fare. Beaches are about 20 minutes
%998 / pop 542,000 away via Route 1 city buses, but there’s also
People either love or hate Cancún. Sure, it’s plenty to do and see in el centro itself. The
touristy, and some folks deplane and head main north–south thoroughfare is Avenida
immediately elsewhere. But there’s some- Tulum, a wide boulevard lined with banks,
thing to be said for just kicking back pool- shopping centers and restaurants. Park Las
side with a cool drink in your hand. Cancún Palapas is quiet and safe, a great place for
revolves around making your vacation every- an afternoon picnic or an evening stroll.
thing you’ve wanted it to be, and there’s a lot Shopaholics will enjoy the colorful mar-
to be discovered, even in the midst of it all. kets, which offer jewelry, handicrafts and
Even if you’re planning to rough it for most souvenirs, as well as a variety of inexpen-
of your Yucatán travel, Cancún or its nearby sive Mexican food.
islands can make a luxury bookend for some Plaza Las Américas, on Avenida Tulum
who want to recharge their batteries by the at the south edge of the centro, is a vast
pool before heading home. modern shopping mall that includes the
Cancún’s wild nights make college fra- Liverpool and Chedraui department stores,
ternity parties seem like Sunday morning in a multiplex cinema, a food court and a salsa
church – especially during US spring break dance club. Don’t confuse it with Plaza
(roughly mid-March to mid-April), when América, a small, aging arcade on Avenida
the city swells with college kids. If you’re Cobá with a few airline offices.
not in a party mood, consider heading to a
quieter club downtown, or take an evening Zona Hotelera
stroll in Parque Las Palapas after having a The Zona Hotelera is what most people
cocktail at one of the open-air restaurants. think of when they say ‘Cancún’: the sandy
When you look around at the giant ho- spit that encloses a scenic lagoon on one side
tels and supermalls it’s hard to imagine that and has the Caribbean’s azure-greens on the
pre-1970s there was nothing here but sand other. Its main road, Blvd Kukulcán, is a
and fishermen. In the 1970s Mexico’s ambi- four-lane divided avenue that leaves Ciudad
tious planners decided to outdo Acapulco Cancún and heads eastward for a few kilom-
with a brand-new, world-class resort lo- eters passing condominium developments,
cated on the Yucatán Peninsula. The place several hotels and shopping complexes, to
they chose was a deserted sand spit located Punta Cancún (Cancún Point) and the Cen-
offshore from the little fishing village of tro de Convenciones (Convention Center).
Puerto Juárez, on the peninsula’s eastern From Punta Cancún, the boulevard heads
shore: Cancún. Vast sums were sunk into south for about 13km, flanked on both sides
landscaping and infrastructure, yielding for much of the way by huge hotels, shop-
straight, well-paved roads, potable tap water ping centers, dance clubs and many res-
and great swaths of sandy beach. More than taurants and bars, to Punta Nizuc (Nizuc
two million tourists fly in to spend one or Point). Here it turns westward and then
two weeks in resort hotels, thronging the rejoins the mainland, cutting through light
beaches and packing the clubs. Many board tropical forest for a few more kilometers to
buses for excursions to Chichén Itzá, Xcaret its southern terminus at Cancún’s interna-
or Tulum, or browse for handicrafts in air- tional airport.
conditioned shopping malls. Addresses in the Zona Hotelera are re-
freshingly simple: instead of a street name
ORIENTATION (usually Blvd Kukulcán anyway) a kilometer
Cancún consists of two very distinct areas: distance from the ‘Km 0’ roadside marker
Ciudad Cancún (Downtown) and Isla Can- at the boulevard’s northern terminus in
cún (the Zona Hotelera). Ciudad Cancún is given. Each kilometer
is similarly marked. Most bus drivers will
Downtown Cancún know the location you’re heading but, if in
Ciudad Cancún is where you should stay doubt, you can just ask to be dropped off at
if you’re looking to save a bundle. Prices the appropriate kilometer marker.
68 CANCÚN •• Quintana Roo www.lonelyplanet.com
ὈὈ
Ὀ
Q U I N TA N A R O O
ᝲᝲᝲ
0 60 km
QUINTANA ROO 0 40 miles
ὈὈ Ὀ
89ºW 88ºW 87ºW
ᝲᝲᝲ
See Riviera Maya (Tulum Corridor) Map (p95)
Gulf of Mexico
Río Lagartos Isla
El Cuyo Holbox Parque Nacional
Holbox
San Reserva de la Isla Contoy
Parque Felipe Biósfera Ría Lagartos Ferry
Dzilam Natural
de Bravo San Felipe Chiquilá
Isla
MEX Blanca
27
Colonia Isla
Yucatán San Ángel Punta Sam Mujeres
MEX
176 Puerto Juárez
Tizimín Tres Marías
Motul Cancún
MEX
Kantunilkin
Tepakán 295
21ºN Leona Vicario Aeropuerto 21ºN
Espita
To Mérida (20km) Internacional
Izamal Nuevo de Cancún
Ek' Balam Xcan Vicente
Hoctún El Ideal Guerrero
Acanceh Puerto
Kantunil (Toll) Morelos
exit Xcan
exit MEX
Huhí 180D Valladolid Playa del
Pisté
MEX Carmen
Mayapán Chemax Airport
Chichén 180 Ferries Airport
Chichimilá
Itzá Puerto Xcaret
Tekit Paamul
Aventuras San Miguel
Cobá de Cozumel
Xpu-Há
Akumal Isla
To Ticul Yucatán Xcacel Chemuyil Cozumel
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Xel-Há
Tepich Tulum Tankah
MEX
Parque Marino Nacional
184 Tihosuco Arrecifes de Cozumel
Peto
Laguna
ᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲᝲ
ᝲ ᝲ
Chunyaxché Parque
20ºN Nacional 20ºN
Boca Paila Tulum
MEX
Santa Rosa Laguna MEX 307
Chicnancanab 295
Dzuiché
ᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲ
ᝲᝲᝲ
José María Punta Allen
Morelos
Felipe Bahía de la
MEX
Carrillo Ascención
Polyuc 184 Puerto
ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲ
ᝲᝲᝲ
Laguna
Kaná CARIBBEAN SEA
Reserva
Laguna de la
Ocom Biósfera
MEX
Bahía del
ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ
307 Sian Ka’an
Espíritu Santo
Laguna Punta Pájaros
Ucum
MEX Xpaitoro
Reserva 293 Nohbec
Laguna
ᝲᝲ
de la
Biósfera Nohbec
19ºN Punta Pulticub 19ºN
Calakmul Limones
Campeche
Quintana Laguna
ᝲᝲ
Bacalar
Roo
ὄ
Laguna de
San Felipe
Mahahual
Banco Reserva de la
Dzibanché Cenote Azul Bacalar Biósfera Banco
ᝲᝲ
Chinchorro
Airport Chinchorro
Xpuhil Francisco Xul-ha Calderitas
Villa
MEX
CHETUMAL
Xpujil
ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ὄ
186 Santa Elena
Río Bec Consejo
do
ᝲᝲ
di
con Kohunlich Corozal Bahía de
Es Chetumal
ío Xcalak
o
nd
R
Ho
Nohmul
Río
ORANGE WALK
ὄὄὄ
18ºN Ambergris 18ºN
r eek Cuello BELIZE
Reserva e C La Caye
lu Unión
de la
B
ὄ
Hill Bank
Río Azul
Chan Chich
Ladyville
Gallon Jug
Bermudian Burrell
Landing Boom BELIZE CITY
89ºW 88ºW 87ºW
www.lonelyplanet.com CANCÚN •• Information 69
Q U I N TA N A R O O
The airport is about 8km south of the city Left Luggage
center. Puerto Juárez, the main port for pas- Pay-in-advance lockers (per 24hr US$6) are at the air-
senger ferries to Isla Mujeres, is about 3km port, just outside customs at the international arrivals area.
north of the center. Punta Sam, the dock
for the slower car ferries to Isla Mujeres, Medical Services
is about 7km north of the center. Irregular American Medical Care Center (Map p70 ; %883-
services leave from the Zona Hotelera. 0113; Plaza Quetzal, Blvd Kukulcán Km 8) Has bilingual
(Spanish and English) doctors and 24-hour emergency care.
INFORMATION Major US insurance plans are accepted.
Bookstores Centro Medico Caribe Cancún (Map p74; %883-
Fama (Map p74; %884-6541; Av Tulum 105 SM 22 9257; Av Yaxilan 74A; h24hr) A small facility near the
M4 Lotes 27 & 27A) Downtown near the southern end of bus terminal with 24-hour assistance.
Tulipanes, it has a large variety of magazines, Mexican road
atlases and books in various languages. Also racy swimsuits Money
if you discover the one you brought is too modest. There are several banks with ATMs on Av
Tulum, between Avs Cobá and Uxmal.
Emergency Ubiquitous cash machines make getting
Cruz Roja (Red Cross; %884-1616) dough (and spending it) easy: the Zona Ho-
Fire (%060) telera has numerous ATMs, as do all the
Police (Map p70; %060; Blvd Kukulcán) major shopping malls, and many offer both
dollars and pesos. Rates in general are less
Immigration favorable than those found downtown, but
Instituto Nacional de Migración (Map p74; Im- not enough to warrant a special trip unless
migration Office; %884-1404; Av Náder 1 at Av Uxmal; you’re exchanging mucho dinero. ATMs
h9am-1pm Mon-Fri) For visa and tourist-card exten- are also located at Cancún’s international
sions (usually same-day service), visit the immigration airport; for more details see p81.
office downtown. Enter the left-hand, southernmost of the
two offices. CANCÚN & ISLA MUJERES
0 8 km
0 4 miles
Internet Access
Zona Hotelera Internet access costs a first- To Isla
born child at most places; you are much Holbox
(40km)
Parque Nacional
better off using the Internet downtown. Isla Contoy
Hotels can charge as much as US$5 per 15 Boca Iglesia Cayos Ratón
minutes. Public Internet in Cancún cen- y Cotuna
Isla
CARIBBEAN
SEA
tro is speedy and cheap: US$1.50 per hour Blanca
Ta-Pok s/n; per hr US$2) The cheapest place in the Zona Isla
Mujeres
Hotelera, right next to the Lavanderia Lagoon. Punta Sam
Vikings del Caribe (Map p74; Av Uxmal at Pino; per hr Puerto
US$1.20; h8am-midnight) Lightning-fast connections at Juárez
CANCÚN 0
0
2 km
1 mile
A To Isla B C D
Holbox
(60km) To Punta
Sam (2km) Playa Caracol
35 Bahía
de Mujeres Punta
6 Cancún
uj o
1
es
Playa 34
t
er
aM y
Tortugas 5
Isl Ferr
37 13
18 1 4
Puerto Laguna 8 9
33 Calle
Juárez de Nichupté Quetzal 15 29 28
Laguna 23
Paseo Bojórquez
Pok-Ta-Pok 20
21
illo
Playa
P ort 3 27 Gaviota
0 800 m
Ló pez Azul
Av 0 0.5 mile
MEX Playa
180 Las
Perlas
2
jeres
s
jere
Isla erry to
Isla Mu to
Ferry
Mu
lcán
F
Kuku
Blvd Bahía
To 180D (toll; 7km); See Ciudad
Valladolid (154km); Playa de Mujeres
Cancún Map Juventud
Mérida (330km) (p74)
Playa
Linda Playa
14 Langosta
36
32
MEX
10 17 19
307
INFORMATION
American Consulate...............(see 4)
3
American Medical Care Centre..1 D1
Banamex................................(see 6) See Enlargement
Av
Banco Bilbao Vizcaya.............(see 5) Am
igo
British Consulate......................2 C4 Laguna
Canadian Consulate...............(see 4) Bojórquez 25 Playa
Centro de Convenciones........(see 9) Chac-Mool
Cybershop Café.....................(see 3)
Lavandería Lagoon..................3 C2 30 11 Playa
Plaza Caracol...........................4 D1 Marlin
Plaza Mayafair.........................5 D1 Sheraton Cancún
Plaza Terramar.........................6 D1 Isla 7
Cancún Caribbean
Police & Fire Departments....... 7 D4
Spanish Consulate....................8 C1 31 Sea
4 Laguna Laguna Playa
cán
Museo INAH............................9 D1
dK
Scuba Cancún........................10 C3
EATING
Blv
Yamil Lu'um.......................... 11 D4
24 Carlos n' Charlie's..................21 D1
Zona Arqueológica El Rey...... 12 C5
22
Crab House........................... 22 C4
Forum Mall............................23 D1
SLEEPING
La Dolce Vita......................... 24 C4
Fiesta Americana Grand Coral
Royal Yacht Club La Serenida..........................(see 16)
Beach.................................13 D1
Plaza Flamingo...................... 25 D3
Gran Costa Real.....................14 C3
16
Restaurant 100% Natural....(see 31)
Grand Royal Lagoon..............15 C1
Restaurant Río Nizuc............. 26 C6
Hilton Cancún........................16 C5 Playa
12 San Ruth's Chris Steak House.....(see 31)
Hotel Cancún Marina.............17 C3
Laguna Miguelito Señor Frog's.......................... 27 D2
5 Kin-Ha...................................18 C1
Riu Caribe..............................19 C3 Cabra
ENTERTAINMENT
Sina Suites..............................20 C1 Playa Bulldog Café..........................28 D1
Delfines
Cinemark.............................(see 30)
Coco Bongo.........................(see 23)
Dady Rock...........................(see 29)
Dady'O..................................29 D1
Laguna
ὄὄ
MEX Río SHOPPING
307 Inglés La Isla Shopping Village......... 30 C4
Plaza Kukulcán.......................31 C4
To Airport (1km)
TRANSPORT
To Valladolid (170);
26 American Airlines.................(see 13)
6 Chichén Itzá (210km);
El Embarcadero Dock.............32 C3
Mérida (toll only; 330km)
Punta
MEX Blvd Nizuc Ferry Service Office.................33 B1
180D Kuk Parque Nacional Playa Caracol Dock................34 D1
ulcá
(Toll) n Submarino Punta Playa Tortugas Dock..............35 C1
To Puerto Nizuc Taxi Zone.............................. 36 C3
Morelos (18km); Xcaret Bus Station..................37 D1
Tulum (110km)
www.lonelyplanet.com CANCÚN •• Dangers & Annoyances 71
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Post jured. A night spent clubbing is more likely
There is no post office in the Zona Hotelera, to lead to a poked eye or twisted ankle than a
but most hotels’ reception desks sell stamps mugging; however, if anyone does demands
and will mail letters. There’s a FedEx office money, don’t argue with them. Most violent
in the CAME bus terminal (Map p74) to incidents have involved fights where tour-
send your mail if you don’t trust the Mexi- ists or locals have actively put themselves
can postal system. in danger.
Main post office (Map p74; %884-1418; cnr Avs Xel- Theft of valuables left unattended is a
Há & Sunyaxchén; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) possibility, but no more so than in other
Downtown at the edge of Mercado 28. You can also post parts of the world. Use prudence, keeping
mail in the red postal boxes sprinkled around town; collec- vital items with you or leaving them in a
tion frequency varies – sometimes measured in weeks. hotel safe, and you’ll avoid problems. Nap-
ping sunbathers may wake up to find cam-
Telephone eras or wallets gone; don’t leave anything
Phoning by VOIP (voice over Internet pro- unattended on the beach.
tocol) can be done at most Internet cafés. Hawkers can be irritating but are not
Call Center (Map p74; Av Cobá 5) At Soberanis Hostal. dangerous. The best way to avoid them is
Offers good rates on international calls and calls to other to just keep walking. If you stop and daw-
parts of Mexico, as well as decent Internet connections at dle, it will be seen as an invitation to hag-
reasonable rates. gle for a sale. As frustrating as this may
be, remember that these vendors are just
Toilets trying to make a living for themselves and
There are pay (US$0.30) toilets in the CAME their families.
terminal (Map p74) downtown. Many Inter- See p72 for information on Cancún’s
net cafés have a small bathroom in back, free water hazards.
for Internet users. Cleanliness varies.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Tourist Information Maya Ruins
Cancún Convention & Visitors Bureau (Map p74; There are two sets of Maya ruins in the
%884-6531; Av Cobá; h9am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri) Zona Hotelera and, though neither is par-
This place near Av Tulum, Downtown, has ample supplies ticularly impressive, both are worth a look
of printed material and usually a fairly knowledgeable if time permits. In the Zona Arqueológica El
English-speaker in attendance. Its primary focus is Cancún, Rey (Map p70; admission US$3; h8am-5pm), on the
but the bureau has information on Quintana Roo as well. west side of Blvd Kukulcán between Km
State tourism office (Sedetur; Map p74; %884-8073; 17 and Km 18, there’s a small temple and
Pecari 23; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri) The Convention & several ceremonial platforms. The other,
Visitors Bureau’s parent is mysteriously tucked away near much smaller, site is Yamil Lu’um (Map p70;
Cobá, a fair walk south of the center, but its information is admission free), atop a beachside knoll on the
good and includes all of Quintana Roo. parklike grounds near the Sheraton Cancún
hotel. Only the outward-sloping remains of
Travel Agencies the weathered temple’s walls still stand, but
In the Zona Hotelera, most big hotels have the ruin makes for a pleasant venture, as
travel agencies. much for its lovely setting as anything else.
Nómadas Travel (Map p74; %892-2320; www To reach the site visitors must pass through
.nomadastravel.com; Av Cobá 5) Downtown, next to the either of the hotels flanking it or approach
Soberanis Hostal, Nómadas is a student-oriented agency it from the beach – there is no direct access
that books and makes changes to air tickets, makes some from the boulevard.
accommodation reservations on the Yucatán Peninsula, The tiny Maya structure and chac-mool
and offers packages to Cuba, among other services. (Maya rain god) statue on the beautifully
kept grounds of the Sheraton Hotel are
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES authentic.
The biggest safety danger in Cancún isn’t
street crime – it’s the streets themselves. Museo Inah
Traffic speeds by along narrow roads and Closed at the time of research due to Hur-
pedestrians (often drunk) are frequently in- ricane Wilma damage, this museum (Map p70;
72 CANCÚN •• Sights & Activities www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
%883-0305; admission US$3.50; h9am-8pm Tue-Fri, the lobby of a hotel, particularly in the Zona
10am-7pm Sat & Sun), operated by the National Hotelera. However, as long as you look like
Institute of Anthropology and History a tourist (this shouldn’t be hard, right?),
(INAH), is on the south side of the Cen- you’ll usually be permitted to cross the
tro de Convenciones in the Zona Hotelera. lobby and proceed to the beach.
Skulls exhibiting the deformities caused Starting from Ciudad Cancún in the
intentionally by Maya parents to beautify northwest, all of Isla Cancún’s beaches are
their children are a bit creepy but also on on the left-hand side of the road (the la-
display are jewelry and artifacts – most goon is on your right). The first beaches are
from the post-Classic period (AD 1200– Playa Las Perlas, Playa Linda, Playa Lan-
1500); part of a Classic-period hieroglyphic gosta, Playa Tortugas and Playa Caracol;
staircase (inscribed with dates from the 6th after you round Punta Cancún, the beaches
century); and the stucco head that gave the to the south are Playa Gaviota Azul, Playa
local archaeological zone its name of El Rey Chac-Mool, Playa Marlin, the long stretch
(The King). of Playa Ballenas, Playa San Miguelito and
Most of the informative signs are in finally, at Km 17, Playa Delfines. Delfines
Spanish only, but at the ticket counter you is about the only beach with a public park-
can get a fractured-English information ing lot big enough to be useful; unfortu-
sheet detailing the contents of the 47 show- nately, its sand is coarser and darker than
cases. The museum also has a small but the exquisite fine, white sand of the more
good selection of books on Maya-related northerly beaches.
subjects, and a gift counter.
BEACH SAFETY
Beaches Cancún’s ambulance services respond to
ACCESS as many as a dozen near-drownings per
Under Mexican law you have the right to week. The most dangerous beaches seem
walk and swim on every beach in the coun- to be Playa Delfines and Playa Chac-Mool.
try except those within military compounds. Though rare, accidents with kiteboards,
In practice, it is difficult to approach many paragliders or jet skis can happen; be aware
stretches of beach without walking through of other beachgoers at all times.
www.lonelyplanet.com C A N C Ú N • • C a n c ú n f o r C h i l d re n 73
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Though the surf is usually gentle, un- damaging for kids or babies: make sure
dertow is a possibility, and sudden storms your children are properly protected.
(called nortes) can blacken the sky and If the beach gets boring or you want a
sweep in at any time without warning. A change of scene, the theme parks of Xel-
system of colored pennants warns beach- Há (p117) or Xcaret (p115) make a good
goers of potential dangers: day trip. The label ‘Eco’ is a bit misleading
Blue Normal, safe conditions. and US$60 per person is ridiculous, but
Yellow Use caution, changeable conditions. kids will enjoy the chance to see the local
Red Unsafe conditions; use a swimming pool instead. wildlife, look at the exhibits and watch the
demonstrations.
Water Sports
For decent snorkeling, you need to travel to TOURS
one of the nearby reefs. Resort hotels, travel Most hotels and travel agencies work with
agencies and various tour operators in the companies that offer tours to surrounding
area can book you on day-cruise boats that attractions. Popular day trips are Chichén
take snorkelers to the barrier reef, as well as Itzá, Cobá, Tulum, and the theme parks
to other good sites in the region. To see the at Xel-Há (p117) and Xcaret (p115). Often
relatively sparse aquatic life off Cancún’s local touts at the hotels and agencies are
beaches, you can rent equipment for about paid only in commissions, so if you chat
US$10 a day from most luxury hotels. Most with someone and decide to take the tour
of the major resorts rent kayaks and the later, be sure to take the time to find the
usual water toys; a few make them available same person who assisted you or he/she
to guests free of charge. may not get paid.
Scuba Cancún (Map p70; %849-5226; www.scuba Alltournative (%984-873-2036; www.alltournative
cancun.com.mx; Blvd Kukulcán Km 5.2) a family- .com; Av 38 Norte, L3 M200, btwn Avs 1 & 5, Playa del Car-
owned and PADI-certified dive opera- men; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat) A Playa del Carmen–based
tion with many years of experience, was outfit that will pick up in Cancún. Packages include
the first dive shop in Cancún. It offers a ziplining, rappelling and kayaking, as well as custom-
Cancún snorkeling tour for US$27 and a designed trips.
variety of dive options (including cenote, Mundo Maya Travel (Map p74; %884-4564 ext
night and nitrox dives), as well as fishing 403; www.mayaworld.cc; Av Cobá 5) In the lobby of the
trips, at reasonable prices (one/two tank Soberanis Hostal, it offers good rates on tours to such
US$54/68, equipment rental extra). The places as Chichén Itzá (US$40, including guide and buffet
bilingual (English and Spanish) staff are lunch), Tulum ruins and Xel-Há (US$44, including guide),
safety oriented and environmentally aware; and Xcaret (US$59.50). All prices are per person and
there are Japanese- and Korean-speaking include admission.
instructors on call as well. Nómadas Travel (Map p74; %892-2320; www
.nomadastravel.com; Av Cobá 5) A popular agency that
TAJ MAHAL CENOTE operates out of the lobby of Soberanis Hostal downtown.
One of the newer cenote discoveries, Taj Offers a variety of reasonably priced packages to popular
Mahal is close to Cancún and gives a chance destinations.
to see what these things are all about. It’s a
doable dive, snorkel, or even a chance to
just go ‘wow.’ Sturdy steps and lots of peo- BURNING ISSUES
ple make it a good starting place for those Most people get to Cancún, strip to their
who may or may not get hooked. swimsuit, and then fry: the sun here is so
strong that even a half-hour will burn folks
CANCÚN FOR CHILDREN who aren’t already bronze. Some tourists
With such easy access to sand, sea, and leave with permanent skin-scarring burns.
swimming pools, most kids will have a blast You can minimize painful, embarrassing
in Cancún. Some hotels offer babysitting lobster-red skin by being smart: avoid the
or day-care services – be sure to check in strong midday sun, use SPF 30 or 45 sun-
advance if these are needed. Remember that screen and take it easy your first few days.
the sun, strong enough to scald even the Or keep your shirt on.
thickest of tourist hides, can be even more
74 CANCÚN •• Ciudad Cancún www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
CIUDAD CANCÚN 0
0
300 m
0.2 mile
1 56
Av Flamboyan
Ux
ma MEX
l
307
Naranja
Flamboyan
Av Tulum
36
54 Cereza
Chaca
Ro le
b
ble
Ro
ra
37
me
Cereza
Lau era
Ὀ
Chaca
Pal
7
lm
rel
71 65
Pa
Av Yaxchilán 43 42
30 4
34
l
ure
La
Punta Allen 24 51
o
2 25 29 Pin 53
31
Nicchehabi 66 40
Rosas
Ὀ
9 Av Uxmal
47 28 8
nta
Margaritas
Margaritas
Av Náder
Rosas 18
Pu
en
16
32
qu
35 Azucenas
Yo
Jazmines
Park
Av Sunyaxchén
Ὀ
21 48 Azucenas
Jazmines 46 55
Tauch
23 41 58
-Há
11 44
Tulipanes
Xel
To Inegi Ayuntamiento
62 Gladiolas Parque Benito
(300m)
Av
Las Juárez
Palapas Tulipanes
3 INFORMATION 3
Gladiolas 14
Aeroméxico............................. 1 D4
19 60
American Express.................... 2 C5 Claveles
Banamex (ATM)......................3 C3 Orquideas 39
Banamex ATM.........................4 C2 26
Bancomer (ATM).....................5 C3 Claveles
Bancomer (ATM).....................6 C5 EATING Orquideas 5
Belizean Consulate...................7 D2 Carrillio's Lobster House........39 C3
Crisantemos
Bosque del Caribe....................8 D2 Comercial Mexicana..............40 C2
13
Call Center..........................(see 38) El Pescador............................41 C3
Cancún @................................9 C2 El Rincón Yucateco.................42 B2 Crisantemos Mercado
Municipal
Cancún Convention & Visitors El Tapatío...............................43 B2 20 Ki-Huic
Bureau...............................10 D4 Food Stalls.............................44 C3
38
Centro Medico Caribe Irori.......................................45 C6 59
4 Cancún..............................11 B3 La Habichuela........................46 B3 Av C
obá 50
Cuban Consulate...................12 C5 La Parrilla...............................47 B2
ὈὈ
Ὀ
Av N
49
Av Bonampak
Av X Av
Cob 17
rra
70
ὈὈ
Italian Consulate....................19 C3 Ty-Coz..................................53 C2
Lava y Seca............................20 C4 Jaleb To Zona
67
Main Post Office....................21 A3 ENTERTAINMENT 6 Hotelera
(4km)
Mundo Maya Travel............(see 38) Cinemas Tulum......................54 C1 Tejón
Nómadas Travel...................(see 38) Karamba................................55 C3 Lluvia
State Tourism Office..............22 C5 Picante...................................56 C1
5 Telecomm..............................23 A3 Plaza de Toros clubs & bars... 57 D6
Tejón
Nube
Lluvia
Ὀ
ὈὈὈ
Vikings del Caribe..................24 C2 Roots.....................................58 C3 22
Pecari
52 Agua
Cielo
SLEEPING SHOPPING 12 2
Casa de Huéspedes Punta Chedraui Supermarket...........59 C4 Pecari
Agua Cielo
Allen..................................25 B2 Colormax...............................60 C3
Hotel Antillano.......................26 C3 Market 23..............................61 C1
Hotel Bonampak....................27 D6 Market 28..............................62 A3 Viento Tierra
ὈὈ
Hotel Cancún Rosa................28 C2 33
Hotel Cotty............................29 B2 TRANSPORT Viento Tierra
Hotel El Alux..........................30 B2 Airport Bus Stop.................... 63 C4 45 27
Hotel El Rey del Caribe..........31 D2 Aviacsa.................................. 64 D4 MEX
Fuego
Hotel Margaritas....................32 B2 Bus Stop................................65 C2 307 Mar
Hotel Olimpo........................ 33 D6 Bus Terminal..........................66 C2 68
6 Hotel Plaza Caribe.................34 C2 Colectivo Taxis to Airport......67 C5
Fuego
Q U I N TA N A R O O
CRANIAL DEFORMATION
Cranial deformation was most often performed to indicate social status. Mothers would bind the
head of their infant (male or female) tightly to a board while the skull was still soft. By positioning
the board either on top of or behind the head, the mother could shape the skull in many ways –
either long and pointy (known as ‘elongated’ – think the Cone Heads fame) or long and narrow,
extending back rather than up (known as ‘oblique’ – think Alien). As the infant grew older and
the bones calcified, the headboard was no longer needed: the skull would retain its modified
shape for life. Apparently, compressing the skull did not affect the intelligence or capabilities of
the child. While this odd practice indicated social status, it is not believed to have elevated a child
to a higher status. Both practices became less and less common after the Spanish arrived.
Q U I N TA N A R O O
include a pool featuring great views across ibe has 500 rooms (all with ocean views),
the lagoon (as do some of the rooms), a bar including 52 junior suites. All come with
and a restaurant. private terraces that overlook a dazzling
Hotel Cancún Marina (Map p70; %287-3200, 800- swimming pool and 200m of beach. The
262-7462; [email protected]; Blvd Kukulcán Km 5.5; lobby is gorgeous, with a nice view of the
r US$85; s) A popular place that was pretty water, pretty tiled floors and stained-glass
hurricane-scrubbed at the time of research. ceiling. Prices listed are all-inclusive; room-
It has a water-sports center, a very inviting only rates are not available.
pool and a pleasant restaurant-bar over- Gran Costa Real (Map p70; %881-1300, in the USA
looking the lagoon. Among the 87 rooms 800-543-7556; www.realresorts.com.mx; Blvd Kukulcán Km
(equipped with hairdryers and safes) are 10 4; d US$198-448; pnais) A large, all-
penthouses. Hopefully things will be back inclusive resort in attractive grounds. The
to normal soon. 355 rooms are posh, the staff is attentive,
Grand Royal Lagoon (Map p70; %883-2749; www and the pool will make you feel that there’s
.grlagoon.com; Quetzal 8-A; r & studio US$90-100; s) little reason to venture outside. It has a
A breezy place with cable TV and safes; shared-facilities agreement with the much
most rooms have two double beds, while more spectacular Gran Caribe Real. Prices
some have kings. Some studios come with listed are all-inclusive.
kitchenette and balcony, and an outdoor Fiesta Americana Grand Coral Beach (Map p70;
ping-pong table makes for fun. The hotel %881-2300; in USA 800-343-7821; www.fiestamericana
has a small pool, and guests have use of the .com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 9.5 L6; r US$250; pais)
Fat Tuesday beach club. The hotel is 100m All rooms have ocean-facing balconies and
off Blvd Kukulcán Km 7.7. very spacious bathrooms, though the inte-
rior decorating here seems a bit busy. It’s
TOP END in a nice location that’s close to lots of the
Double-room rates in this category start at Zona Hotelera action if you’re planning to
US$112 and top off at it-costs-WHAT-per- party.
night?! All of the resorts described below Hilton Cancún (Map p70; %881-8000; www.hilton
are in the Zona Hotelera and border the .com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 17; d US$280; pais)
Caribbean. Guestrooms come equipped You’ll find seven cascading pools, a beauti-
with air-con and satellite TV, and many ful zen-inspired garden spa, and yoga on
have balconies with sea views. Many hotels the beach here. The blue-and-turquoise bed
only offer all-inclusive packages, often at throws are attractive, matching the view
reasonable rates if you’re willing to forgo outside. Bathrooms are adequate.
eating or entertainment elsewhere. Often
the best room rates are available through EATING
booking hotel-and-airfare packages; shop Downtown
around. Restaurants in the city center range from
Kin-Ha (Map p70; %891-5400; www.ambiancevillas ultra-Mexican taco joints to fairly smooth
.com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 8; r/ste US$112/242, with ocean and expensive salons.
view US$162/309; pnaisc ) A rare
kid-friendly all-inclusive, Kin-Ha offers BUDGET
daycare and babysitting, plus a ‘kids club’ Cancún’s downtown area has lots of good
designed to let parents relax while the kids budget eats. Mercados 23 and 28 have a
are occupied. A self-contained hotel, this number of tiny eateries, and Parque Las
has 134 rooms and suites in four buildings. Palapas has some food stands. Few non-
All rooms feature a balcony and two double alcoholic options beat cantaloupe or wa-
beds or one king-sized bed…or you can termelon juices; ask for agua de melón or
just use the beachside mattresses. A travel agua de sandia and you’ll feel like you’re
agency, car-rental agency, minimarket, bars sipping chilled rainbow juice.
and a gym are on the premises. Prices listed Santa Clara (Map p74; %887-83-83; Av Bonampak
are all-inclusive. 157; cones US$2-4; h9am-10pm) Specializes in ice
Riu Caribe (Map p70; %848-7850; www.riu.com; cream, but also serves coffee and various
Blvd Kukulcán Km 5.5; s low/high season US$193/214, sweet dishes. It has milk and cheese as well,
d US$269/386; pnais) The Riu Car- all locally produced.
78 CANCÚN •• Eating www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Q U I N TA N A R O O
TOP END (though the latter was closed at time of re-
Restaurants in this category offer better search due to hurricane damage).
value than those in the Zona Hotelera. La Isla Shopping Village, Plaza Flamingo
Carrillo’s Lobster House (Map p74; % 884- and the Forum mall hold other options to
1227; Claveles 35; shrimp & fish dishes US$12-20, lobster get a bite, including pizzas and burgers.
dishes US$32) Try Carrillo’s Plato Cozumel if
you’re looking for something a bit special. TOP END
This somewhat formal restaurant has air- ‘Pay-per-view’ takes on a whole different
conditioning indoors and is fan-cooled out- meaning in the Zona Hotelera. Though
doors, and entertainment is provided by there are many establishments in this cate-
mariachis. Follow the good smells leading gory, their prices sometimes reflect their
to the blue building and you’ll be in the location and what’s outside the window
right place. more than the quality of food.
La Habichuela (Map p74; %884-3158; Margaritas Crab House (Map p70; %885-3936; Blvd Kukulcán
25; mains US$15-32) An elegant restaurant with a Km 14.8; dishes US$14-20; h1-11:30pm) Offers a
lovely courtyard dining area, just off Parque lovely view of the lagoon that complements
Las Palapas. The specialty is shrimp and the seafood. The long menu includes many
lobster in curry sauce served inside a coco- shrimp and fillet-of-fish dishes. Crab and
nut with tropical fruit, but almost anything lobster are priced by the pound (US$19.50
on the menu is delicious. The seafood cevi- to US$40.50).
che and tapa al ajillo (potatoes in garlic) are Matachi Seaside Grill (Map p70; % 881-8000;
mouthwatering. The gorgeous aquarium in Blvd Kukulcán Km 17; mains US$15-40) Formerly La
the lobby makes for a very attractive wait Sirenita, the Matachi is a stylish, intimate
(reservations are advised). Finish with lime place inside the Hilton, right on the beach.
sorbet splashed with Xtabentun, a Yucate- It offers a variety of Mexican and Asian-
can anise-flavored liqueur. inspired cuisine, seafood, sushi and other
creative entrées.
Zona Hotelera La Dolce Vita (Map p70; %885-0161; www.cancun
BUDGET italianrestaurant.com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 14.6; pizzas
For budget eats in the Zona Hotelera, try US$12.50-15, mains US$14.50-40; hnoon-11pm) One
the food courts at any large mall. of Cancún’s fanciest Italian restaurants, it
Restaurant Río Nizuc (Map p70; mains US$4.50-9; offers white wicker chairs and soft, roman-
hnoon-5pm) About as close to sea level as tic lighting, plus great lagoon views and at-
a restaurant can be, this breezy hole in the tentive staff. Try the chicken with sun-dried
wall, er, wharf is at the end of a short, name- tomatoes and finish with crêpes Suzette (for
less road near Blvd Kukulcán Km 23, at the two). With a bottle of red, white, or rosé
edge of a mangrove-flanked channel. Oc- this could be the start or the finish of a
topus, conch and fish are served in various wonderful day.
ways (fried, with garlic, as ceviche), and the Ruth’s Chris Steak House (Map p70; %885-0500;
beer is cheap. Get there early, as it closes Kukulcán Plaza; steaks US$22-35; h1-11pm) Ruth’s
when the fish is gone. Chris chain is known internationally for its
aged, corn-fed, USDA prime beef. Pricey,
MIDRANGE but steak lovers don’t seem to mind.
The Zona Hotelera is a vast swath of mainly
Tex-Mex–style places catering to the just- ENTERTAINMENT
flew-in crowd. Prices are higher and quality Many of the clubs and restaurants are open
is lower than what you’ll find downtown. A for drinks for much of the day.
number of places cater to a young crowd,
with conga lines where waiters cheer and Clubs
pour watery tequila down dancers’ throats DOWNTOWN
as they weave by. So you’ll either want to Downtown clubs are generally mellower
head for or away from Señor Frog’s (Map p70; than those in the rowdy Zona Hotelera.
Blvd Kukulcán Km 9.8; dishes US$10-20) and Carlos Built into the Plaza de Toros (Bullring; Map p74; cnr
‘n Charlie’s (Map p70; Blvd Kukulcán Km 5.5; dishes Avs Bonampak & Sayil) are several bars, some with
US$10-18) for that kind of dining experience music, that draw a largely local crowd.
80 CANCÚN •• Enter tainment www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Q U I N TA N A R O O
around. Look for the giant bulldog sign Mercado Municipal Ki-Huic (Map p74; Av Tulum)
outside and you’ll know you’ve found the This warren of stalls and shops carries a
right place. wide variety of souvenirs and handicrafts.
You can find silverwork, hamacas, wooden
Cinema figurines, and T-shirts ranging from tasteful
In general Hollywood movies are shown to disgusting. It’s 100% tourist trap, so even
in English with Spanish subtitles; however, hard bargaining may not bring down prices
English-language children’s movies are usu- as much here as elsewhere.
ally dubbed in Spanish. Either way, catch- Colormax (Map p74; %887-4625; Av Tulum 22;
ing a flick can be a nice option if you’re 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) Colormax, just
sunfried or just want to take a break from north of Calle Claveles, offers a wide assort-
the beach. Ticket prices run about US$4 for ment of Fuji film including Velvia, Provia
children and adults, and Wednesday after- and Reala. It does developing as well.
noons are often discounted further. Locals head to either Mercado 28 (Map
Cinemark (Map p70; %883-5603; La Isla Shopping Vil- p74) or Mercado 23 (Map p74) for clothes,
lage) This cineplex shows only English-language, first-run shoes, inexpensive food stalls, hardware
Hollywood hits. items and so on. Of the two, Mercado 23
Cinemas Tulum (Map p74; %884-3451; Av Tulum 10) is the least frequented by tourists. If you’re
This theater shows first-run Hollywood movies in English looking for a place without corny T-shirts,
with Spanish subtitles, as well as foreign films and current this is the place to go.
Mexican releases. Across Avenida Tulum is the Chedraui
supermarket, whose upstairs clothing de-
SHOPPING partment sometimes has souvenir-grade
Neither downtown nor the Zona Hotelera items at very affordable prices.
fits the bill as a bargain-hunter’s paradise –
the store coupons in Cancún Tips for 35% GETTING THERE & AWAY
off any jewelry purchase should give you Air
some idea of the mark-ups involved. Still, Cancún’s international airport (%886-0049) is
Cancún can be a great place to shop for the busiest in southeastern Mexico. The
souvenirs and jewellery. airport has a few ATMs; the best place to
Plaza Kukulcán (Map p70; Blvd Kukulcán Km 13) change money is the Banamex bank along
The largest (and definitely among the stuff- the back wall outside the domestic baggage-
iest, attitude-wise) of the indoor malls is claim area (behind the coffee shop); it has
chichi Plaza Kukulcán. Some shops were an ATM and offers good exchange rates.
undergoing Wilma-related repairs at the Opposite the bank are (inconvenient) pay-
time of research, but should be back to nor- in-advance baggage lockers costing US$6
mal soon. Of note here is the huge art gal- for 24 hours (a tip is appreciated, but op-
lery (taking up near half of the 2nd floor), tional). There’s wifi access and a free, Span-
the many stores selling silverwork, and La ish-only public Internet terminal that has
Ruta de las Indias, a shop featuring wooden sticky, punch-button keys.
models of Spanish galleons and replicas of Cancún is served by many direct inter-
conquistadors’ weaponry and body armor. national flights (for more information see
But all is not lost; the plaza has a bowling p272). Between Mexicana and its subsidi-
alley and a large food court. ary, Click, there is at least one and up to
La Isla Shopping Village (Map p70; Blvd Kukulcán eight direct daily flights to each of the fol-
Km 12) Unique among the island’s malls, this lowing destinations: Mexico City (one way
is an indoor-outdoor place with canals, an US$137), Oaxaca (US$248), Tuxtla Gutiér-
aquarium, ultramodern parasol structures rez (US$246), Villahermosa (US$259) and
and enough other visual distractions to keep Mérida (US$200). Click offers flights daily
even the most inveterate hater of shopping to Mérida, and six to Cozumel. It also flies
amused while his or her significant other twice daily to Havana, Cuba (round-trip
browses the numerous stores. For tipplers only, US$305), but you can get better pack-
on your list, consider picking up a bottle age deals through local travel agents. US
of Xtabentun, a Yucatecan anise-flavored visitors heading to Cuba should pay partic-
liqueur. ular attention to the recent US crackdown
82 CANCÚN •• Getting Around www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
on agencies and visitors organizing trips to safe area and you’ll be fine walking around.
Cuba. George W doesn’t want you spend- Across Pino from the bus terminal, a few
ing your dollars there even if you want to. doors from Avenida Tulum, is the ticket
Cubana, the Cuban national airline, has office and mini-terminal of Playa Express,
daily flights as well. which runs air-conditioned buses down
Aviacsa, a regional carrier based in Tux- the coast to Tulum approximately every
tla Gutiérrez, has direct flights from Can- half hour until early evening, stopping at
cún to Mexico City, with connections for major towns and points of interest along
Oaxaca, Tapachula, Tuxtla Gutiérrez and the way. Riviera covers the same ground
Villahermosa, as well as points in central with its 1st-class (though not necessarily
and northern Mexico. better) service.
Magnicharters flies direct to Monterrey, ADO sets the 1st-class standard, while
Mexico City, Guadalajara and León. UNO, ADO GL and Super Expresso pro-
Grupo Taca flies from Cancún to Flores vide luxury services. Mayab provides good
via Guatemala City, connecting to points in ‘intermediate class’ (modern, air-con buses,
Central America several times a week. tending to make more stops than 1st class)
If you intend to fly from Cancún to to many points. Oriente’s 2nd-class air-con
other parts of Mexico, reserve your airline buses often depart and arrive late. Nor-
seat ahead of time to avoid any unpleasant este buses vary in quality; some are pretty
surprises. The following airlines are repre- shabby indeed.
sented in Cancún: The staff at the ADO/Riviera informa-
Aeroméxico (Map p74; %287-1820; Av Cobá 80) Just tion counter in the bus terminal provides
west of Av Bonampak. good information on many of the bus serv-
American Airlines (Map p70; %800-904-6000; ices and are available 24 hours. The table
Hotel Fiesta Americana Coral Beach, Blvd Kukulcán Km 8.7) (opposite) shows some of the major routes
Has an airport counter as well. serviced daily.
Aviacsa (Map p74; %887-4214; fax 884-6599;
Av Cobá 37) Also has an airport counter. Car
Azteca (%886-0831) Airport counter. Rental-car agencies with facilities at the air-
Click (%884-2000) Airport counter. port include: Alamo (%886-0179), Avis (%886-
Continental (%886-0169, 800-900-5000; www.contin 0222), Budget (%886-0026), Dollar (%886-0179)
ental.com) Airport counter. and Hertz (%886-0150). You can receive bet-
Copa (%800-265-2672) Airport counter. ter rates if you reserve ahead of time, but
Cubana (Map p74; %887-7210; Calle Tulum) it doesn’t hurt to do comparison shopping
Delta (%800-123-4710, 886-0368) Airport counter. after arriving and before signing your origi-
Grupo Taca (%886-0008; www.taca.com) Airport nal agreement.
counter. You’re better off leaving the rental car
Magnicharters (Map p74; %884-0600; Av Náder 93) parked inside Cancún and walking or
Mexicana (Map p74; %881-9090, 24hr 800-502-2000; catching a bus to most places in town till
Av Cobá 39) you’re ready to get out of town. Be warned
Northwest (%800-907-4700) Airport counter. also that Hwy 180D, the 238km toll (cuota)
US Airways (%800-007-8800; www.usairways.com) road running much of the way between
Airport counter. Cancún and Mérida, costs US$28.50 for the
distance and has only two exits before the
Boat end. The first, at Valladolid, costs US$19.50
See p90 for details of boats to Isla Mujeres to reach from Cancún and the second, at
and p93 for boats to Isla Holbox. Pisté (for Chichén Itzá), is an additional
US$4.
Bus
Cancún’s modern bus terminal occupies GETTING AROUND
the wedge formed where Avenidas Uxmal To/From the Airport
and Tulum meet. Upon leaving you’ll be White TTC buses to downtown Cancún
asked by every taxi driver if you want a (US$4) leave the airport about every 20
ride; you’ll also be approached by hotel minutes between 5:30am and 11:30pm from
hawkers pushing ‘deals.’ Despite this, it’s a a small parking lot at the end of the domes-
www.lonelyplanet.com CANCÚN •• Getting Around 83
Q U I N TA N A R O O
BUS SERVICES FROM CANCÚN
Destination Cost Duration Departures
tic terminal. A straight line drawn from the Cheaper ADO shuttles leave from the
exit of the international arrivals terminal domestic terminal side, charging US$3.20
(past all the vans) would reach the small to go downtown or US$6.50 direct to Playa
lot and its ticket booth decorated with a del Carmen. Riviera also runs nine express
Coca-Cola sign. Once in town, the buses 1st-class buses from the airport to Playa del
travel up Avenida Tulum and will stop most Carmen between 7am and 7:30pm (US$8,
anywhere you ask. One central stop is across 45 minutes to one hour). The service is
from the Chedraui supermarket on Avenida direct and tickets are sold at a counter that
Cobá (not to be confused with the Chedraui is located in the international section of
further south in Plaza Las Américas). the airport.
Going to the airport from downtown the Regular taxis into town or to the Zona
same TTC airport buses (Aeropuerto Cen- Hotelera cost up to US$40 if you catch
tro) head south on Av Tulum. You can flag them right outside the airport. If you fol-
them down anywhere it’s feasible, from well low the access road out of the airport, how-
north of the bus terminal to well south of ever, and past the traffic-monitoring booth
Av Cobá; some official stops are shown on (a total of about 300m), you can often flag
the Ciudad Cancún map. down an empty taxi leaving the airport that
Comfortable colectivos (shared vans) de- will take you for much less (you can try
part from the curb in front of the inter- for US$5) because the driver is no longer
national terminal about every 15 minutes subject to the expensive regulated airport
for the Zona Hotelera and downtown; they fares.
charge US$9 per person. If volume allows, Colectivo taxis head to the airport from
they will separate passengers into down- a stand in front of the Hotel Cancún
town and Zona groups. Otherwise, depend- Handall on Av Tulum about a block south
ing who’s going exactly where, they may of Av Cobá. These operate between 6am
head downtown first and then to the Zona. and 9pm (but check beforehand), charge
Going the opposite way, via Punta Nizuc, US$4 per person and leave when full. The
can take up to 45 minutes from the airport official rate for private taxis from town
to downtown. is US$15.
84 N O R T H O F C A N C Ú N • • I s l a M u j e re s www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Information Five kilometers south of town is Playa
BOOKSTORES Lancheros, the southernmost point served
Mañana (%044 998-866-4347; cnr Matamoros & by local buses. The beach is less attractive
Guerrero; h10am-7pm) This café (p89) has some nice than Playa Norte, but it sometimes has free
bookshelves and swaps or sells, depending on your needs. musical festivities on Sunday. A taxi ride to
Lancheros is US$2.
INTERNET ACCESS Another 1.5km south of Lancheros is Playa
Internet café (cnr Matamoros & Guerrero; h9am- Garrafón, with translucent waters, colorful
10pm Mon-Sat) As yet unnamed, offers access to the web fish and no sand. Unfortunately the reef here
at US$1.50 per hour. has been heavily damaged by hurricanes
and careless visitors. The water can be very
LAUNDRY choppy, sweeping you into jagged areas, so
Tim Pho (%877-0529; cnr Juarez & Abasolo; h7am- it’s best to stay near shore. Avoid the over-
9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) Friendly and cheap: up to hyped and overpriced Parque Natural (which
4kg takes two hours and costs US$5. has constructed a horrendous eyesore of an
observation tower that has you praying for a
MEDICAL SERVICES hurricane) and visit instead Hotel Garrafón de
Medical Center (Guerrero btwn Madero & Morelos)
0 1 km
ISLA MUJERES 0 0.5 miles
MONEY
ὄ
Several banks are directly across from the
Zona Hotelera ferry dock. Most exchange
currency, have ATMs and are open 8:30am See Isla Mujeres
Town Map (p86)
to 5pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 2pm
Punta Norte
Saturday.
HSBC (Av Rueda Medina)
Av
POST & TELEPHONE Ru
eda
Me
din
The island has an abundance of Telmex a CARIBBEAN
card phones. SEA
Post office (%877-0085; Guerrero at López Mateos; Ferries to
Punta Sam &
h9am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Puerto Juárez
Airstrip
TOURIST INFORMATION
ún
Makax
that reads, ‘Sorry, gone to Cancún.’ Salina
ὄὄ
Grande
Ca
to Zon
de Mujeres
Ru
rer
aM
ac
ed
Isla Mujeres
jo
ina
Turtle Farm
chures, and one member of its friendly staff speaks English; Playa Hacienda
ὄὄ
Mundaca
the rest speak Spanish only. Pescador
Playa
Lancheros
Sights & Activities Hotel
Arrecife
BEACHES & SWIMMING Manchones Playa
Indios
Garrafón
Castilla (%877-0107; Carretera Punta Sur Km 6; admission than the ruins that remain. A 19th-century
US$2; h9am-5pm), which provides chairs, um- slave trader and reputed pirate, Fermín An-
brellas, showers and baths for the entrance tonio Mundaca de Marechaja, fell in love
fee. Snorkeling gear is US$6 extra. It has a with a local woman known as La Trigueña
roped-off swimming area (from which one (The Brunette). To win her, Mundaca built
could sneak-swim into the parque next door, a two-story mansion complete with gardens
were one so inclined) as well as a restaurant and graceful archways, as well as a small
and snack bar. The hotel rents lockers and fortification.
towels, and offers snorkeling tours to the But while Mundaca was building the
offshore reef for US$20. Taxis from town house, La Trigueña married another is-
cost US$5. lander. Brokenhearted, Mundaca died and
his house, fortress and garden fell into
HACIENDA MUNDACA disrepair. Some documents indicate that
This estate (Av Rueda Medina; admission US$1; Mundaca died during a visit to Mérida and
h9am-5pm) is at the large bend in Avenida was buried there. Others say he died on
Rueda Medina, about 4km south of the the island, and indeed there’s a grave in
town. Its story is perhaps more intriguing the town cemetery that supposedly con-
0 300 m
ISLA MUJERES TOWN 0 0.2 mile
Punta
A Norte B C D
INFORMATION SLEEPING
Centro de Convenciones..........1 B2 Avalon Reef Club...................13 B1
HSBC.......................................2 C4 Hotel Belmar..........................14 B3
1 Immigration Office...................3 B4 Hotel Cabañas María del Mar..15 B2
ὄὄὄὄ
IMSS Hospital...........................4 B3 Hotel Caribe Maya.................16 B3
Internet Café............................5 B3 Hotel Casa Maya....................17 B2
Post Office...............................6 B3 Hotel D’Gomar......................18 C4
Tim Phó...................................7 B3 Hotel El Caracol......................19 B3
13
Tourist Information Office.......8 B4 Hotel Francis Arlene...............20 B3
Hotel Las Palmas....................21 B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hotel Marcianito....................22 B3
ὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
Coral Scuba Dive Center..........9 B3 Hotel Mesón del Bucanero ....23 B3
Fishermen's Cooperative Hotel Na-Balam......................24 B2
17 Booth.................................10 B4 Perla del Caribe......................25 C3
Iglesia de la Inmaculada Poc-Na Hostel........................26 B3
24 Concepción.......................11 C4
2 Sea Hawk Divers....................12 B2 EATING
Ha
e
ὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
Zazil-
aN
El Balcón de Arriba.................27 B3
ay
El Olivo Pizzería......................28 B3
Pl
ὄὄὄὄ
s 4 CARIBBEAN
La Pizza Rolandi.......................(see 14)
zo
6
Gu 32 Restaurante Bucaneros.........(see 23)
err SEA
ero 31 San Francisco de Asís.............34 C3
38 Hi 26
da 21
lgo
Cemetery DRINKING
19
s
5
eo
Plaza Isla 28 25
20
at
Mujeres La Malquerida........................35 B3
zM
35
Ju 43
pe
ár 36
ez 14 16
Ló
Av 22 ENTERTAINMENT
9
ros
Ru 37 Fayne’s...................................36 B3
eda 7
o
Me 34 La Peña..................................37 C3
tam
din 27
a Playa Sol................................38 A3
lo
Ma
23 Plaza
aso
Ab
TRANSPORT
o
41 11
der
Bus Stop.................................39 B2
Ma
42
s
38
relo
Bus Stop.................................40 B4
vo
10
Bra
Mo
33 ibe
Ur To Turtle Farm (5km);
Car Ferry to Ferries to Zona Southern Beaches (5-7km);
Punta Sam Hotelera, Cancún La Casa de los Sueños (7km);
(6km) (13km) Mayan Ruins (7km)
www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H O F C A N C Ú N • • I s l a M u j e re s 87
Q U I N TA N A R O O
tains his remains. Despite the skull and to more than 300kg. The farm also has a
crossbones on his headstone (a common small but good quality aquarium, displays
memento mori) there’s no evidence in his- on marine life and a gift shop. Tours are
tory books that Mundaca was ever a pirate. conducted in Spanish and English.
Instead, it is said he accumulated his wealth If you’re driving, biking or walking
by transporting slaves from Africa to Cuba, from the bus stop, bear right at the ‘Y’
where they were forced to work in mines just beyond Hacienda Mundaca’s parking
and sugarcane fields. lot (the turn is marked by a tiny sign).
Today the mostly ruined complex has The facility is easily reached from town
some walls and foundations, a large central by taxi (US$3).
pond, some rusting cannons and a partially
rebuilt house. At the southern end stand a PUNTA SUR
gateway and a small garden. You can still At the south end of the island lie a light-
make out the words Entrada de La Trigueña house, a modern sculpture garden and the
(La Trigueña’s Entrance) etched into the severely worn remains of a temple dedi-
impressive stone arch of the gate. cated chiefly to Ixchel, Maya goddess of the
The shady grounds make for pleasant moon and fertility. In 1988 Hurricane Gil-
strolling (bring repellent), and a small zoo is bert nearly finished the ruins off; what was
scattered across them, holding local fauna, left was pummeled by Emily and Wilma
including a cage-crazed jaguar, some spider in 2004, and there’s now little to see other
monkeys, crocodiles, jabalíes (peccaries), a than the sculpture garden, the sea and, in
boa constrictor and the smallest species of the distance, Cancún. Unless you’re des-
deer on the North American continent. perate to pay the steep entry fee (US$5),
Kids may find it fun; adults may want to head left before the lighthouse and enjoy
unlock the cages. the view from the small dirt parking lot.
Hacienda Mundaca is easily reached From downtown, a taxi costs US$5.
by bus or bike; a taxi from town will cost
US$3. DIVING & SNORKELING
As many as 40% of the diving and snor-
TURTLE FARM keling sites in the Cancún/Isla Mujeres
Three species of sea turtle lay eggs in the area were affected by hurricanes Emily and
sand along the island’s calm western shore. Wilma in 2004, and at the time of research
Although they are endangered, sea turtles some of these areas were closed to div-
are still killed throughout Latin America ing. That said, within a short boat ride of
for their eggs and meat, which is considered the island there’s a handful of lovely dives,
a delicacy. In the 1980s, efforts by a local such as Barracuda, La Bandera, El Jigueo
fisherman led to the founding of the Isla and Manchones. A popular nonreef dive
Mujeres Turtle Farm (Isla Mujeres Tortugranja; %877- is Ultrafreeze (or El Frío), the intact hull
0595; Carretera Sac Bajo Km 5; admission US$2; h9am- of a 60m-long cargo ship thought to have
5pm), 5km south of town, which protects the been deliberately sunk in 30m of water, 90
turtles’ breeding grounds and places wire minutes by boat northeast of Isla Mujeres.
cages around their eggs to protect against The name of the site is due to the unusu-
predators. ally cool water found there. A rental 3mm
Hatchlings live in three large pools for shorty wetsuit will barely keep you warm;
up to a year, then are tagged for monitor- consider asking for a hood if you tend to
ing and released. Because most turtles in get chilled while diving.
the wild die within their first few months, To protect and preserve the reefs, a US$2
the practice of guarding them through their fee is charged for all diving and swimming.
first year greatly increases their chances of Please pay it, as this money is used to pre-
survival. Moreover, the turtles that leave serve natural patrimony. At all of the repu-
this protected beach return each year, table dive centers you need to show your
which means their offspring receive the certification card, and you will be expected
same protection. to have your own gear. Equipment rental
The main draw here is several hundred adds US$10 to the prices listed here; you’ll
sea turtles, ranging in weight from 150g pay another US$10 if you need a wetsuit.
88 N O R T H O F C A N C Ú N • • I s l a M u j e re s Book accommodations online
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Sea Hawk Divers (%/fax 877-0296; http://mjmnet Hotel Las Palmas (% 877-0965; Guerrero 20;
.net/seahawkdivers/home.htm; Carlos Lazo) offers dives d US$30) Has perhaps the narrowest bath-
for US$45 (one tank) to US$60 (two tanks), rooms in Mexico, and the toilets lack seats.
a resort course for US$85, PADI Open Rooms are musty at first, but beds are firm
Water certification (US$300), and snor- and comfortable. Good location makes this
keling tours from US$25. peach-colored hotel worth a peek, but check
Coral Scuba Dive Center (%877-0763; www.coral a room first before deciding to stay here.
scubadivecenter.com; Hidalgo btwn Abasolo & Madero) of- Hotel Caribe Maya (%877-0684; Madero 9; d with
fers dives for US$29 to US$59, snorkel trips fan/air-con US$25/30; a) The old blue tiles need
for US$22 and a variety of courses. replacing, but this place offers rooms that,
The fisherfolk of Isla Mujeres have though a bit musty, are solid value even in
formed a cooperative to offer snorkeling the high season.
tours of various sites from US$20, including Hotel El Caracol (%877-0150; fax 877-0547; Matam-
the reef off Playa Garrafón, and day trips oros 5 btwn Hidalgo & Guerrero; d with fan/air-con low season
to Isla Contoy for US$50. You can book US$15/25, high season US$20/35; a) Old green-tiled
through the Fisherman’s Cooperative Booth floors are a bit off-putting, but El Caracol
(%877-1363; Av Rueda Medina) in a palapa steps offers 18 clean, well-furnished rooms with
away from the dock. Booking here ensures insect screens and tiled bathrooms. Rooms
your money goes to locals. and beds smell fresh. Bathrooms are spot-
less. Air-con works, but adds US$10 to the
DEEP-SEA FISHING cost of the room.
The fishing cooperative (see above) offers Hotel Marcianito (% 877-0111; Abasolo 10; r
trips to fish for marlin, swordfish and do- US$30-35) The ‘Little Martian’ is a neat, tidy
rado from US$50/150 per hour/half day, in- and recommended hotel with 13 slightly
cluding bait and tackle, soft drinks, snacks dark, fan-cooled rooms that have a bit too
and beer. much air freshener. Upper-floor rooms are
the more expensive ones. Plaid quilts seem
Sleeping cutely out of place.
The ‘high season’ rates cover roughly mid-
December through March. During this MIDRANGE
period you can expect many places to be Hotel D’Gomar (%877-0541; Av Rueda Medina 150; d
booked solid by midday (even earlier dur- with fan US$35, with air-con low/high season US$50/65; a)
ing Easter week). US spring break (March A friendly place facing the ferry dock be-
to early April) is another peak time. tween Morelos and Bravo, this has four floors
of attractive, ample and well-maintained
BUDGET rooms with double beds (air-con rooms have
Poc-Na Hostel (% /fax 877-0090; www.pocna.com; two) and large bathrooms. Most have ham-
cnr Matamoros & Carlos Lazo; sites per person US$6.50, mocks, and both coffee and water are free.
dm with/without card US$9/10, d US$24; ai) Only The mirror in the stairway gives warped,
moments away from one of the island’s funhouse-style reflections as you head to
nicest beaches and decorated with shells your room.
and hibiscus flowers, Mexico’s oldest youth Hotel Francis Arlene (% /fax 877-0310; Guer-
hostel ranks among the country’s best. It rero 7; r with fan/air-con low season US$50/55, high
has fan-cooled six-, eight- and 10-bed season US$60/65; a) Offers comfortable, good-
co-ed dorms as well as women’s dorms and sized, pastel-and-white rooms with fan and
a few air-con doubles. The large main com- fridge. Most have a king-sized bed or two
mon area has hammocks to chill in and an doubles, and many have balconies and sea
excellent sound system putting out tunes views. The lounging frog sculptures will ei-
till the wee hours. The property extends ther seem hokey or cute. Either way they
through 100m of sand and coconut palms kinda fit right in.
to the edge of the Caribbean and the hos- Perla del Caribe (%877-0444; fax 877-0306; Ma-
tel’s own beach bar. Though there are no dero 24; d US$70; as) A new coat of paint
cooking facilities for guests, the kitchen hasn’t kept this place from looking pretty
serves good, inexpensive food (and beer hurricane-scrubbed. One block north of
and wine). Guerrero right on the eastern beach, it has
Book
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Q U I N TA N A R O O
a pool and restaurant. All rooms have bal- time this book is printed: the smallish studios
conies and many have sea views. and villas are in two-story structures detached
Hotel Mesón del Bucanero (%877-1222, 800- from the hotel tower, and are equipped with
712-3510; www.bucaneros.com; Hidalgo 11 btwn Abasolo kitchenettes. The complex boasts multiple
& Madero; d US$29-72;a) Above the Bucaneros restaurants and bars, a pool and a spa-fitness
restaurant. Its nicely decorated rooms (most center and prices given here are all-inclusive.
with air-con) all have TVs and are priced Red marble baths make for a relaxing soak
according to their various combinations of after a ‘hard’ day on the beach.
beds, balcony, tub and fridge – one even has
a blender and toaster. Rooms air out nicely Eating
if the windows are opened. Aluxes Coffee House (Matamoros btwn Guerrero & Hidalgo;
Hotel Belmar (%877-0430; fax 877-0429; www bagels US$2, sandwiches US$4-5; h8am-10pm Wed-Mon)
.rolandi.com; Hidalgo 110 btwn Abasolo & Madero; d Serves bagels with cream cheese, sandwiches,
with air-con low/high season US$35/90, ste with Jacuzzi muffins, and hot and iced coffee.
US$95/134; a) Above the Pizza Rolandi res- El Olivo Pizzería (Matamoros btwn Guerrero &
taurant and run by the same friendly fam- Hidalgo; pizza slices US$1-2; h1-10pm) Sells deli-
ily. All rooms are comfy and well kept, with cious slices of pizza, with plain mozzarella
tiled floors and (some) balconies. Prices or various toppings.
span four distinct seasons. Mañana (%044 998-866-4347; cnr Matamoros &
Hotel Casa Maya (%877-0045; www.kasamaya Guerrero; dishes US$2-5; h10am-7pm) This small,
.com.mx; Calle Zazil-ha s/n; r US$80-165) Beautiful relaxing café has colorful, hand-painted ta-
cabanas right by the beach offer something bles and serves baguette sandwiches, coffee,
similar to what’s in Tulum. Palm-shaded licuados (blends of fruit or juice with water
hammocks and a common kitchen make it or milk, and sugar) and some Middle East-
easy to do nothing all afternoon. ern dishes. The hummus with onions and
mushrooms is a delicious signature dish.
TOP END La Lomita (Juárez btwn Allende & Uribe; mains
All rooms in this category have air-con. US$3.50-6; h9am-10:30pm Mon-Sat) ‘The Little
Hotel Cabanas María del Mar (%877-0179; fax Hill’ serves good, cheap Mexican food in a
877-0213; www.cabanasdelmar.com; cnr Carlos Lazo 1; d small, colorful setting. Seafood and chicken
low season US$55-88, high season US$110-121; as) dishes predominate. Fantastic bean and
Near Playa Norte, it has 73 rooms with firm avocado soup.
beds and pink bedspreads. All have bal- Mininos (Av Rueda Medina btwn Allende & Uribe;
conies or terraces, many with sea or pool mains US$5-8; h11am-9pm) A tiny, colorfully
views and lovely tiled bathrooms. A lush painted shack dishing up cocktails of
courtyard, restaurant and swimming pool shrimp, conch and octopus, heaping plates
top things off. Rates include continental of delicious ceviche, and seafood soups.
breakfast. El Balcón de Arriba (%877-0513; Hidalgo 12; mains
Hotel Na Balam (% 877-0279; fax 877-0446; US$5-10; h3-11pm) Just east of Abasolo, this
www.nabalam.com; Calle Zazil-Ha 118; r low/high season is an airy, casual 2nd-floor eatery popular
US$150/202, ste US$175/302; as ) Butterflies with tourists. El Balcón serves good fruit
flit around the beautiful hibiscus and palm drinks, some veggie dishes and a large se-
garden, and many rooms face Playa Norte. lection of seafood. Try the rich camarones
All rooms are decorated with simple el- a la Reina if you have a friend who can
egance, and have safes, hammocks, private help out.
balconies or patios…and no TVs. The hotel Restaurante Bucaneros (% 877-0126; Hidalgo
offers yoga and meditation classes as well btwn Abasolo & Madero; mains US$2.60-12, set meals
as massage services, and has a pool and US$12; h7am-11pm) Below the Hotel Mesón
restaurant. There’s also entertainment here del Bucanero, this is a fan-cooled, mostly
(see p90). outdoor restaurant with a pleasing ambi-
Avalon Reef Club (%/fax 999-2050, 800-713-8170; ence and a variety of alcoholic and non-
www.avalonvacations.com; Calle Zazil-Ha at Islote Yunque; d alcoholic tropical shakes and drinks. The
US$350; as) Occupies its own islet off the best deal is the set menú especial, which
northern tip of Isla Mujeres. Hard hit by gives you a choice of several mains accom-
Wilma but should be back to normal by the panied by soup or salad and a dessert.
90 N O R T H O F C A N C Ú N • • I s l a M u j e re s www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Pizza Rolandi (%877-0430; Hidalgo btwn Abasolo noons (every other week in the off-season),
& Madero; mains US$7-12, pizzas US$6-13; h8am-11pm) with live music, dancing and a three-hour-
Below the Hotel Belmar, it bakes very good long happy hour.
thin-crust pizzas and calzones in a wood- Castaway Bar (%999-2050; Calle Zazil-Ha at Islote
fired oven. The menu also includes pasta, Yunque; h11am-late) A little way up the beach
fresh salads, fish, good coffee and some Ital- from Na Balam and across the bridge at the
ian specialties – definitely don’t come here Avalon Reef Club. It features regular pro-
looking for Mexican. motions such as ‘Ladies Drink Free’ night
La Flor de Michoacán (cnr Hidalgo & Bravo; h9am- and ‘Viva México,’ with mariachis and te-
9pm) Near the plaza, this is the place to go quila specials.
for excellent and inexpensive milkshakes, La Peña (Guerrero btwn Morelos & Bravo; h7:30pm-
fruit drinks and shaved ices. 3am or later) This English-run club features the
Inside the remodeled mercado municipal sound of waves, lots of wood, and a nice
(town market; Guerrero btwn Matamoros & López Mateos) pool table. Off the north side of the plaza,
are a couple of stalls selling hot food cheap – it has a great atmosphere and a fabulous
a plate of chicken mole and rice, or tuna music mix. Some say it’s the best in town.
with olives in a tortilla, can go for as lit-
tle as US$1.50. Other stalls sell a variety of Getting There & Away
produce, and a juice stand serves up liquid There are several points of embarkation to
refreshments. Four open-air restaurants out reach Isla Mujeres. The following descrip-
the front serve simple but decent and filling tion starts from the northernmost port
meals at fair prices. and progresses southeast (see Map p70).
San Francisco de Asís, a chain supermar- To reach Puerto Juárez or Punta Sam from
ket on the plaza, has a solid selection of downtown Cancún, catch any bus (US$0.40)
groceries, baked goods and snacks. displaying those destinations and/or ‘Ruta
13’ as it heads north on Avenida Tulum.
Drinking & Entertainment Some R1 (Zona Hotelera; US$0.65) buses
Isla Mujeres’ highest concentration of make the trip as well; ask before boarding.
nightlife is along Hidalgo, and hot spots
on or near the beach form an arc around PUNTA SAM
the northern edge of town. Loud disco-bar- Car ferries, which also take passengers, de-
restaurants open and close seasonally on part from Punta Sam, about 8km north of
Hidalgo, usually to be replaced by some- Cancún center, and take about an hour to
thing almost the same. There are quieter reach the island. Departure times are 8am,
places, though. If no hours are listed you 11am, 2:45pm, 5:30pm and 8:15pm from
can assume it opens in the afternoon and Punta Sam; and 6:30am, 9:30am, 12:45pm,
doesn’t close until at least midnight. 4:15pm and 7:15pm from Isla Mujeres.
Fayne’s (Hidalgo near Matamoros; h5pm-midnight) Walk-ons and vehicle passengers pay
One of the latest disco-bar-restaurants, US$1.50; drivers are included in the fare for
often featuring live reggae, salsa and other cars (US$19), vans (US$24), motorcycles
Caribbean sounds. (US$7.50) and bicycles (US$6). If you’re
La Malquerida (%877-1639; cnr Hidalgo & Mata- taking a car in high season, it’s good to
moros; h 10am-midnight) Seems pricier than get in line an hour or so before departure
it could be and doesn’t have the view the time. Tickets go on sale just before the ferry
beach bars do, but it’s open daily and some- begins loading.
times has live music.
Playa Sol (Playa Norte; h9am-10pm or whenever) PUERTO JUÁREZ
A happening spot day and night, with vol- About 4km north of the Cancún city center
leyball, a soccer area and good food and (15 minutes by bus) is Puerto Juárez. En-
drinks at decent prices. It’s a great spot closed, air-con express boats depart from
to watch the sunset, and in high season here for Isla Mujeres (US$3.50 one-way,
bands play reggae, salsa, merengue or other 25 minutes) every 30 minutes from 6am
danceable music. to 8:30am, then hourly until 12:30am with
Hotel Na Balam (Calle Zazil-Ha) Has a beach a final departure at 9pm; they rarely leave
bar that’s a popular spot on weekend after- on time.
www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H O F C A N C Ú N • • Pa r q u e N a c i o n a l I s l a C o n t o y 91
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ZONA HOTELERA along Avenida Rueda Medina, stopping
Services from the following two spots in the along the way. Get taxis from the stand or
Zona Hotelera change names and schedules flag one down. You can get to the entrance
frequently; ask your concierge to check for of Hacienda Mundaca, within 300m of the
you before heading out to catch boats from Turtle Farm (Tortugranja), and as far south
any of the following places. All take about as Playa Lancheros (1.5km north of Playa
25 minutes to reach Isla Mujeres. Garrafón). Taxi rates are set by the munici-
pal government and posted at the taxi stand
El Embarcadero just south of the passenger ferry dock. As
Shuttles depart from this dock at Playa always, agree on a price before getting in.
Linda four times daily in low season, be-
tween 9:30am and 1:30pm, returning from MOTORCYCLE & GOLF CART
Isla Mujeres at 10:30am, 1:30pm, 3:30pm Take a look around before you rent. The
and 5:15pm. The one-way fare (US$7.50) island is tiny and you can walk from the
includes soft drinks. High season sees up to dock to any part of the town in 15 minutes.
seven departures each way. El Embarcadero Two-wheeled motorized transportation can
is a beige building between the Gran Costa be dangerous; even on sedate Isla Mujeres
Real Hotel and the channel, on the mainland people get seriously injured or die in bike
side of the bridge (Blvd Kukulcán Km 4). mishaps. Inspect the vehicle carefully be-
fore renting. Costs vary, and are sometimes
Playa Tortugas jacked up in high season, but generally start
The Isla Shuttle (% 883-3448) leaves from at about US$8 per hour, with a two-hour
the dock on Playa Tortugas (Blvd Kukul- minimum, US$25 all day (9am to 5pm) and
cán Km 6.35) at 9:15am, 11:30am, 1:45pm US$35 for 24 hours.
and 3:45pm, returning from Isla Mujeres Many people find golf carts a good way
at 10:15am, 12:30pm, 3:30pm and 6:30pm. to get around the island, and caravans of
The one-way fare is US$9. them can be seen tooling down the roads.
They average US$15/45 per hour/day and
Getting Around US$55 for 24 hours. A good, no-nonsense
With all rented transportation it’s best to place for both bikes and golf carts is Ppe’s
deal directly with the shop supplying it. Moto Rent (%877-0019; Hidalgo btwn Matamoros &
They’re happier if they don’t have to pay Abasolo).
commissions to touts, and the chances for
misunderstandings are fewer. Rates are usu- PARQUE NACIONAL ISLA CONTOY
ally open to negotiation. Spectacular Isla Contoy is a bird-lover’s de-
light: a national park and sanctuary that is
BICYCLE an easy day trip from Isla Mujeres. About
Cycling is a great way to get around the 800m at its widest point and more than
island. Many bicycles are single-speed, 7km long, it has dense foliage that provides
with coaster (ie push-back-on-the-pedal) ideal shelter for more than 100 species of
brakes; these give you a good workout on birds, including brown pelicans, olive cor-
the gradual hills. A number of shops rent morants, turkey birds, brown boobies and
bikes for about US$2/8 an hour/day. Ar- frigates, as well as being a good place to
rive early in the day to get your pick of the see red flamingos, snowy egrets and white
better ones and take the time to have the herons.
seat adjusted properly. Some places ask for Most of the trips stop for snorkeling
a deposit of about US$10. David (%044 998- both en route to and just off Contoy,
860-0075; Av Rueda Medina), near Abasolo, has a which sees about 1500 visitors a month.
decent selection. Bring binoculars, mosquito repellent and
sunscreen.
BUS & TAXI
Local buses depart about every 25 minutes Getting There & Away
(but don’t bank on it) from next to the Cen- Daily visits to Contoy are offered by the
tro de Convenciones (near the back of the fisherman’s cooperative (%998-877-1363; Av Rueda
market) or from the ferry dock and head Medina). The trip (US$50 per person) lasts
92 NORTH OF CANCÚN •• Isla Holbox Book accommodations online
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Posada Los Arcos (%875-2043; Juárez; s/d/tr/q
with fan US$20/25/30/35) Next door to Posada THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE
La Raza and well wave-scrubbed at the time Cueva de la Pirata (%875-2183; meals US$7-
of research, this is a touch more upscale. Its 14; h6pm to whenever) Mouthwatering, el-
rooms are located around a central court- egant Italian food is served here on the
yard and all have hot and cold water. Rates west side of the plaza. An excellent wine
rise by 50% in summer. selection and some after-dinner dancing
Posada d’Ingrid (% 875-2070; r with air-con make this a great choice for a fun evening.
US$35-50; a) A friendly bright-blue place The attractive owners have been known to
one block west and one block north of the dine or dance with guests. Enjoy!
northwest edge of the parque. All six rooms
have hot water and TV; there’s a simple
palapa in the courtyard. Eating
Hotelito Casa Las Tortugas (%/fax 875-2129; The influx of Italians has been good for
www.holboxcasalastortugas.com; r low season US$30-45, gourmets. Italian, seafood and lobster meals
high season US$55-70) Has the same rustic but are all good, but eat early, especially in the
refined style as its neighbor, the Mawimbi, off season. Many places close by 9pm.
with an even greater abundance of charming Café Quimbaya (% 875-2255; meals US$2-5;
touches, particularly in the bathrooms. Many h7:30am-1pm & 6-10:30pm) Great coffee, sweets,
rooms have kitchenettes and balconies, with milkshakes and more are served here along
hammocks to laze in outside, and there’s a with unusual treats such as huitlacoche (corn
wonderful common area in the form of a mushroom) or hibiscus quesadillas (cheese
hutlike lookout above the 2nd floor. and hibiscus flowers folded into a tortilla
Posada Mawimbi (%/fax 875-2003; www.mawimbi and pan fried). All food is made to order.
.com.mx; d US$70, with kitchenette US$100) Mosquito La Isla del Colibrí (breakfast US$3.50-6, mains US$5-
nets are a welcome luxury in this pleasant, 16; h8am-1pm & 5-10:30pm Thu-Tue) A small res-
two-story place just off the beach and about taurant in a gaily painted, Caribbean-style
three blocks east of Juárez. All of the rooms wooden house on the southwest corner
have a fan and comfortable beds; many of the parque. It serves huge fruit plates,
rooms also have a balcony and hammock. breakfasts (and coffee), licuados, juices and
Blue-and-yellow tiled sinks make even shav- a variety of meat and seafood dishes.
ing a pleasure. Conch lamps light the walk- Edelín Pizzería & Restaurant (pizzas US$5-15;
ways after dark – a beautiful finishing touch. mains US$4-10; h11am-midnight) On the south-
Prices can drop 50% in the low season. east corner of the plaza, it serves good,
Villas Delfines (%/fax 875-2197; www.holbox.com; Sardegnian-style pizza, as well as tortas
bungalows US$90-150) This is an eco-tel on the (sandwich in a roll), ceviches, fish fillets,
beach about 1km east of town that com- shrimp and lobster; beer costs US$1.20.
posts waste, catches rainwater and uses Buenavista Grill (%875-2102; meals US$10-20;
solar power. Its large beach bungalows are h11am-9pm) This casual eatery next to Faro
built on stilts, fully screened and fan-cooled. Viejo has plastic chairs, but serves up grilled
The hotel rents windsurfers and kayaks and fish specialties including whole grilled fish
has a restaurant that offers very reasonable or fillets wrapped in banana leaves. The day
meal plans. of the week it is closed varies.
Faro Viejo (%875-2217; www.faroviejoholbox.com
.mx; Juárez at beach; d & tr US$72-135; ste US$200-230; a) Getting There & Around
Closed for post-Wilma reconstruction, but A barco (boat) ferries passengers (US$4, 25
should open again. ‘The Old Lighthouse’ minutes) to Holbox from the port village of
is the most architecturally conventional of Chiquilá nine times daily from 5am to 6pm
the beach accommodations; it’s also on the in winter, 6am to 7pm in summer. Buses
only stretch of beach where golf-cart traffic departing Chiquilá usually wait for the
is banned (a big plus). The hotel is comfort- boat to arrive. Smaller, faster and wetter
able and very well maintained, has a good lanchas make the crossing whenever any-
restaurant and bar, and rents bicycles to one’s willing to pay US$25 for the entire
guests for US$50 per day. Suites sleep two boat (up to about six people with gear; the
to six people. fare is higher after dark).
94 R I V I E R A MAYA • • Pu e r t o M o re l o s www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Interestingly enough, thanks to Wilma’s pay US$2 for an entry bracelet to the marine
fury the beach here has almost twice as park; if you’re snorkeling, you need a per-
much sand as it did before October 2005. sonal floatation device. While the proximity
Despite the recent building boom to the of the reef makes it a tempting destination
north and south, which threatens to change for beach-based swimmers, strong currents
this peaceful spot forever, for the moment and lots of boat traffic can be hazardous.
anyway Puerto Morelos retains a quiet, You’re best off hiring a boat from the dock
small-town feel. Several megaresorts have (US$25) or arranging to tag along with a
been completed in the past few years. dive center group as they head out.
Mystic Diving (% 871-0634; www.mysticdiving
Orientation & Information .com), on the east (beach) side of the plaza, is
Puerto Morelos’ central plaza is 2km east of one of several outfits in town offering dive
Hwy 307 nearly at the end of the main road and snorkel trips.
into town (the main dock is the true end of Dive Puerto Morelos (% 206-9084; www.dive
the road). The town, all of three streets wide puertomorelos.com; h8am-7pm) Offers snorkel-
from east to west, stretches several blocks to ing, diving and cenote trips, or it costs
the north of the plaza and about three long US$325 for PADI certification.
blocks south.
Alma Libre (%871-0713; www.almalibrebooks.com; RIVIERA MAYA 00 20 km
12 miles
h10am-3pm & 6-9pm Tue-Sat, 4-9pm Sun, closed Jul- (TULUM CORRIDOR)
Ὀ
Sep) has more than 20,000 new and used
ᝲᝲ
87ºW
books – from ‘beach trash’ to travel and
wildlife guides, books on Mexican cooking
Isla
and Maya culture (including a Spanish/ Holbox
Porvenir
English/Maya dictionary), as well as re- Holbox
Laguna Parque Nacional
gional maps and much more. The friendly Yalahán Isla Contoy
Boca Iglesia
owners are also a great resource for info Chiquilá
about the area. Solferino
Unidad
Ganadera
Isla
Laguna Blanca
The HSBC ATM stands off the northeast Chacmochuk
Isla
Union
corner of the plaza. Agricola Mujeres
ὈὈ
Cenotes
Laguna Katan Chi de Cozumel
with views of sea turtles, sharks, stingrays, El Continente & Azul
Isla
Akumal Cozumel
eagle rays, moray eels, lobsters, staghorn To Cobá Chemuyil
and brain corals and, of course, loads of (32km)
Xcacel
Xel-Há
colorful tropical fish. Several sunken ships Punta Solimán See Isla Cozumel Map (p105)
ᝲᝲ
make great wreck diving, and the dive cent- Tulum
Tankah
Q U I N TA N A R O O
set. Come here to hang out, talk, watch garden has sections dedicated to epiphytes
the plaza or catch live music if it happens (orchids and bromeliads), palms, ferns,
to be on. succulents (cacti and their relatives), orna-
Gioconda (h6-11pm or later) Behind Spaget- mental plants and plants used in traditional
tino’s, it’s another mellow place to mix; it Maya medicine. The flora is identified in
has a mostly expat clientele. English, Spanish and Latin. The preserve
Café Finca la Chiquilla (Av Rojo Gomez s/n; mains also holds a large animal population, in-
US$4-7; h8am-10pm or later) This place, directly cluding the only coastal troops of spider
across from Don Pepés, is one of a kind, a monkeys left in the region. Birders come
great little spot with occasional live music, to observe the many migratory and resident
a full bar, and coffee that is not only freshly bird species. A lookout tower affords views
ground and roasted, but even grown and over the mangrove to Puerto Morelos and
picked by the owners from their coffee the sea.
plantation in Puebla. It’s very popular with For the anthropologically minded, the
locals and tourists alike. preserve has re-creations of a Maya house
and a chiclero camp, as well as some genu-
Shopping ine Maya ruins (c AD 1400). Bring insect
One of the best reasons to come to Puerto repellent. Buses may be hailed directly in
Morelos is to hit the artisan’s market, one front of the garden.
block south of the plaza’s west corner. You
can find authentic Tixkokob hammocks, TRES RÍOS
fine jewelry, pottery and clothing at much Tres Ríos (%998-887-8077; www.tres-rios.com; Km
better prices than you’ll see in Playa del 54 Hwy 307), 21km south of Puerto Morelos,
Carmen or Cancún. It’s refreshingly low is the first of three ‘ecoparks’ you’ll en-
key, and you can often see the craftspeople counter between Cancún and Tulum, and
at work. Mauricio Soriano is the person to the least environmentally harmful one. Be-
find for hammocks. He will explain the dif- fore Wilma closed it down it was actually
ferent types and offers a wide variety of a fairly cool place: a 1.5-sq-km swath of
styles to choose from. See p168 for more coastal forest where – despite the name –
information on hammocks. four underground rivers surface a kilom-
eter or so from the sea. It is uncertain when
Getting There & Away it will re-open.
Most Playa Express and Riviera buses that The park offers opportunities to explore
travel between Cancún and Playa del Car- the freshwater jungle-flanked rivers in ca-
men drop you on the highway. Some Mayab noes or kayaks, ride mountain bikes along
buses enter town; the Riviera bus running jungle paths, and just hang out on the white-
between Cancún airport and Playa del Car- sand beach. An all-inclusive price gets you
men will sometimes enter the town on re- towels, a locker, snorkeling gear (US$5
quest. The 2nd-class bus fare from Cancún extra with the basic admission), speedboat
is US$1.60. Colectivos cost US$0.40. rides, horseback riding and food and drink
Taxis are usually waiting at the turnoff to (including domestic alcohol, which you
shuttle people into town, and there’s often a might want to save for last). Various com-
taxi or two near the plaza to shuttle people binations of activities are offered in pro-
back to the highway. Many drivers will tell motional packages, most of which include
you the fare is per person or overcharge in transportation from Cancún.
some other manner; strive for US$1.60 for If the park is open, a special Tres Ríos
the 2km ride, for as many people as you bus leaves Cancún’s Mayfair Plaza (Blvd
can stuff in. Kukulcán Km 8.5) at 8:30am and returns
at 5pm daily. Most buses traveling Hwy 307
JARDÍN BOTÁNICO will drop you near the entrance.
Two kilometers south of the turnoff for
Puerto Morelos is the Jardín Botánico Yaax PUNTA BETE
Che (admission US$7; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat), a 60- Punta Bete, a rocky, reef-hugged point
hectare nature reserve with nearly 3km of 65km south of Cancún, is reached by a dirt
trails through several native habitats. The road that runs past a large new housing
98 R I V I E R A MAYA • • P l a y a d e l C a r m e n www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
development and weaves 2.5km from Hwy ships regularly drop anchor here, flooding
307 (turn at the sign for Xcalacoco) before Playa’s tourist zone and ensuring that touts
reaching the sea. North and south of the have plenty of reason to stick around. The
stubby point there are beautiful and occa- hawker’s cute (though sometimes annoy-
sionally wide stretches of beach upon which ing) phrase, ‘Almost free,’ is now often re-
sit a few small, low-profile hotels, a few res- placed by the far less attractive, ‘Hey Buddy,
taurants and a super-pricey resort. this stuff’s cheaper than Walmart!’
Coco’s Cabanas (% /fax 998-887-9964; www
.cancun-reservations.com; r US$56; s) consists of Orientation
five nicely decorated cabanas with electric- Playa is mostly laid out on an easy, one-
ity, fan, good beds and hammocks. It’s a way grid, but its northward expansion has
short walk from the beach and has a bar, resulted in many unsigned streets in that
a small pool, a pleasant garden area and a area, aggravated by a confusing series of bis
restaurant. The English-speaking German streets (Calle 12 bis = Calle 12-A), some of
owner has done a very good job on the which end after a few blocks. Quinta Ave-
whole place. nida (keen-ta; 5th Ave) is the most hap-
The hotels and restaurants in Punta Bete pening street in town, especially along its
are within walking distance of each other, pedestrian stretch (the Tourist Zone). The
but you’re best off getting here by rental main bus terminal is at the intersection of
car or taxi. Quinta Avenida and Juarez, but there is an-
other one further away on Calle 12.
PLAYA DEL CARMEN Though Quinta Avenida is a popular
%984 / pop 54,300 place to stroll and dine, or drink and peo-
Playa del Carmen is a happening place. It ple-watch, or any combination of the above,
lies in the lee of Cozumel and offers re- the number of restaurant and time-share
laxing beaches, excellent food, some super touts can be dismaying at times.
hotel deals and as much night life as you Some people are afraid that leaving the
can handle, though it’s a bit more mellow tourist zone will result in instant death,
than Cancún. or at least a quick mugging. Unless you’re
The reefs here are excellent and offer div- being stupid, you’ve got little to fear, and
ing and snorkeling close by. Look for rays, the quiet side streets have a wealth of res-
moray eels, sea turtles and a huge variety taurants and cheap hotels that make for fun
of corals. The lavender sea fans make for discovering.
very picturesque vistas, though the water
is more turbid than across the channel in Information
Cozumel. Some of the shallower reefs and BOOKSTORES
snorkel spots still have sand covering them, Coffee Press (Calle 2 at Quinta Av) Sells used books and
tossed up by Wilma. does two-for-one exchanges.
Most of Playa’s foreign visitors during the
1980s and ’90s were Europeans who found EMERGENCY
Cancún too commercial. In Playa, they dis- Tourist police kiosk (%873-0291; h24hr) Guards
covered a small town with a lovely stretch the north corner of the main plaza.
of beach facing a beautiful reef, a few small
hotels, and restaurants that served fresh sea- INTERNET ACCESS
food. Some of these visitors stayed. Today, You can’t toss a stone without hitting an
many of the town’s accommodations are Internet café. Two popular options:
stylish European-owned and managed inns, Antro-Net (10 Av btwn Calles12 & 14; h7am-11pm)
and the city is gradually extending further Cybernet (Calle 8; per hr US$1.50; h8am-11:15pm)
and further north, south and west as more Just east of Quinta Av, it has generally good connections.
hotels, time-shares and other residential de-
velopments continue to be built. LAUNDRY
The official population is given as 54,300, L@v@nderi@ del C@rmen (Calle 2 No 402 btwn Calles
but some residents estimate that the true 10 & 15; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat) Conveniently has an
figure including visitors in a good high Internet café in front of the lavanderia, so you can surf the
season can be as high as 250,000. Cruise web as your clothes get clean.
www.lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • P l a y a d e l C a r m e n 99
Q U I N TA N A R O O
GOT DRUGS?
Let’s hope you don’t – or that you don’t let a federale find them on you. Misleading informa-
tion about proposed changes to Mexican possession laws has led some travelers to mistakenly
believe that drug usage is now legal in Mexico. It’s not. The reforms actually were intended to
make it easier to make drug-related arrests, by allowing tiny amounts of common drugs (a few
joints worth of pot, a line or two of coke, a few pills of X etc). Due to an outcry from the US
government, the bill (once close to being signed by then presidente Vicente Fox) was stalled at
the time of research. Many expect the reforms have been effectively killed off.
However, even if reforms go through (a big if ), things are likely to get worse – not better –
for drug-using tourists in Mexico.
Local officials will now have jurisdiction to make drug-related arrests, and local governments
will have the power to impose huge fines. That splif you’re waltzing around with may end up
being legal, but sale or use is still prohibited, and the additional powers vested in locals may
create the potential for additional corruption and bribes. Steep fines for possession are expected
to appear quickly if indeed the reforms do go through.
Whether or not the drug laws do get passed, don’t let the apparent hype fool you: drug use
or abuse in Mexico remains extremely risky, and jail time (often measured in years) could be
the result.
Lavandería Giracaribe (10 Av btwn Calles 12 & 14; cially in crowded dance clubs. Never leave
h8:00am-9:00pm Mon-Sat) Friendly Lavandería Giracar- valuables unattended on the beach, espe-
ibe, located next to the AntroNet, washes and dries clothes cially on the isolated stretches to the north.
for US$1.30 a kilogram. Run-and-grab thefts while victims are
swimming or sleeping on isolated beaches
MEDICAL SERVICES are a common occurrence (the jungle has
In a medical emergency dial %060. eyes), and sneak thefts on more populated
Centro de Salud (%873-0493; 15 Av) beaches are not unknown.
Community Hospital (35 Av)
Activities
MONEY DIVING & SNORKELING
These are some of the many banks around In addition to great ocean diving, all of
town. the following outfits offer cenote dives (for
Banamex (cnr Calle 12 & 10 Av) more on nearby cenotes, see p115).
Bancomer (Av Juárez) Has ATM. Four blocks west of Dive Mike (%803-1228; www.divemike.com; Calle
Terminal del Centro. 8 btwn Quinta Av & the beach) offers snorkeling
Scotiabank (Quinta Av) Has both ATM and a currency- tours by boat to reefs and a secluded beach
exchange counter, across from the Terminal del Centro. for US$25 including refreshments and all
gear. To tag along on a dive boat is US$10.
POST Ask the staff about cenote snorkel tours
Post office (cnr 15 Av & Av Juárez; h9am-5pm (US$45). English, German, French, Italian,
Mon-Fri, for stamps only 9am-1pm Sat) A couple of blocks Danish, Norwegian, Swedish, and Spanish
inland from the main plaza. are spoken.
At Phocea Riviera Maya (%873-1210; www
TOURIST INFORMATION .phocearivieramaya.com; 1 Av btwn Calles 10 & 12)
Tourist information office (%873-2804; Av Juárez French, English and Spanish are spoken.
at 15 Av; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun) Well Yucatek Divers (%803-1363; www.yucatek-divers.com;
stocked with brochures and usually staffed by a speaker of 15 Av btwn Calles 2 & 4) has German, French, Eng-
English, Italian and German. lish, Spanish and Dutch speakers, and offers
handicapped/limited-mobility dives.
Dangers & Annoyances
Playa is generally safe: you are very unlikely BEACHES
to experience street crime or muggings. Beachgoers will agree that it’s pretty darn
However, pickpockets do circulate, espe- nice here. You can swim on Playa’s lovely
100 R I V I E R A MAYA • • P l a y a d e l C a r m e n Book accommodations online
w w at
w .www.lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
0 300 m
PLAYA DEL CARMEN 0 0.2 mile
A B C Ca
lle
D
20 Altournative
(3km);
Ca Ca
lle lle Av
12 16 Co
Bis ns
Ca tit
1 lle uy
Ca 14 en
Av
tes
ὄὄὄὄ
lle
10 Bis
30
45 Ca
To lle
Av
La Floresta Fo Ca 14
ot lle
25
(250m) pa 10 39
Ca Ca th Bis
lle lle 40
6N 8
Wal-Mart 7 35
v)
Av
o rte
5A
Ca
20
Bis lle
v(
ὄὄὄὄ
12
Ca 36
aA
4
Av
lle
int
6 26 Hostel El Palomar.................18 B3
15
Qu
19 Ca Hostel Playa.........................19 A2
lle 1
Av
ὈὈὄὄὄὄ
Ca
lle 25 Hotel Mar Caribe.................24 A3
8 37 41
Av
v
1A
13 15 Kinbé Hotel..........................25 C2
30
28 Mosquito Blue.....................26 C2
Ca
v
lle 5
6
25
23 Posada Mi Casa....................28 B2
12
27
Av
EATING
ὄὄὄὄ
2 Ca
20
14
15
To
5A
v(
Tulum (63m);
ὄὄὄὄ
Community Hospital..............4 A2 John Gray's Place.................35 C1
Qu
Cancún (68km) Av
Av Juá Cybernet...............................5 C2 Pizza Pazza..........................36 C2
Juá rez 22
3 rez L@v@nderi@ del [email protected] A3 Pizza Pazza...........................37 B2
46 33 Lavanderia Giracaribe.............7 C1 Restaurant 100% Natural....38 C2
24 18 Post Office.............................8 A3 Xlapak..................................39 C1
9 16 Scotiabank (Currency
Ca 20 Exchange, ATM).................9 B3 DRINKING
lle Ca 11 Tourist Office...................... 10 A3 Dragon Bar........................(see 15)
1 lle
h
ac
Q U I N TA N A R O O
forced quiet time, which means people who Hotel La Ziranda (%873-3933; www.hotellaziranda
want to sleep are actually able to. No meals .com; Calle 4 btwn 15 & 20 Avs; r with air-con low/high sea-
are served, but there’s free coffee and bot- son US$35/53; a) This place was constructed
tled water (US$1 to fill a water bottle), and in late 2000. Its two peach-colored buildings
the staff are extremely helpful and have have 15 nice rooms, all with balconies or
great suggestions on what to see and do. terraces and two double beds or one king.
Camping-Cabanas La Ruina (%/fax 873-0405; Trees have been left in place and several
[email protected]; Calle 2; sites or hammock spaces per walkways have holes to allow them to grow.
person US$7, d with bathroom US$30-55, d US$20; a) Pitch Fan-cooled rooms are US$10 cheaper.
your tent or hang your hammock (they’re Posada Barrio Latino (%/fax 873-2384; www
available for rent as well) in a large lot near .posadabarriolatino.com; Calle 4 btwn 10 & 15 Avs; s/d/tr
the beach. Very casual, and beach gear can low season US$30/35/45, high season US$40/50/60, air-con
be stored (insecurely) in the courtyard. Some extra US$10; pa) Offers 16 clean, colorful
rooms have ceiling fans, some have air-con – rooms with good ventilation, ceiling fans,
the cheapest are bare and bleak, and the most tiled floors, bathrooms and hammocks (in
expensive front the beach. addition to beds). The friendly Italian own-
Hostel El Palomar (%803-2606; hostelelpalomar@ ers speak English and Spanish, the place is
hotmail.com; Quinta Av btwn Av Juárez & Calle 2; dm low/ often full and the front gate is always kept
high season US$8/11, d US$25/40; n) A friendly, locked. Discounted rates for extended stays.
nonsmoking place across from the Termi- Rates include breakfast, and guests get a
nal del Centro. It has two 18-bed, single-sex discount on Café de la Luna, the Italian
dorms and, on the 3rd floor, a few mod- restaurant across the street.
est doubles without bathroom (each with
balcony, hammock and good sea views). A MIDRANGE
rooftop terrace with kitchen facilities has You can find great deals by heading away
great views of the Caribbean. Rates include from the beach on Calles 4, 6 and 8 and
breakfast, sheets, towels, soap, BIG lockers looking beyond the Tourist Zone.
and drinking water. Downsides are poor El Paladar Cubano (%873-3708; paladarcubano@
ventilation, cramped beds, poor toilets and yahoo.com.mx; 20 Av Norte No 172; d US$45-55, tr US$60-70)
no indoor common area. Bright, colorful rooms and breezy balconies.
Hotel Mar Caribe (%873-0207; cnr 15 Av & Calle 1; The tiled floors are spotless, and this place is
s/d low season US$25/30, high season US$30/40) A sim- very nicely located – close to the action, but
ple, secure and very clean nine-room place far enough away that it’s not noisy.
with fan-cooled rooms. The owners speak Hotel Balam Nah (%873-2116; fax 873-2117; www
French, Spanish and some English. One .hotelbalamnah.com; Calle 1 btwn Quinta & 10 Avs; d with
can almost imagine Steinbeck working on fan/air-con US$56/67, with air-con & balcony US$67; a)
a novel at one of the dark wooden tables. Has good beds and bathrooms (towels are
Hotel Casa Tucán (%/fax 873-0283; casatucan@ twisted into kissing swans), tiled floors and,
prodigy.net.mx; Calle 4 btwn 10 & 15 Avs; r with fan/air-con in most rooms, small fridges. Rooms are
US$30/45; as) This German-run hotel is a on three floors around a viney courtyard
warren of 29 rooms of several types. Rooms (the front, balcony rooms are not worth the
have fans or air-con, a couple have kitch- price). Prices here remain the same year-
enettes, and the cheapest don’t have bath- round.
rooms. The Tucán has a swimming pool, a
pleasant tropical garden and a café serving
good, affordable food. THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE
Posada Mi Casa (%873-1972; [email protected] Kinbé Hotel (% 873-0441; www.kinbe.com;
.mx; cnr 5 Av & Calle 8; s/d US$32/42; a) A very rea- Calle 10 near 1 Av; d low/high season US$50/70, ste
sonable option right in the center of the US$95/130; a) An Italian-owned and oper-
Zona, the Mi Casa has spotless tiled-floor ated hotel, it has 19 clean, simple but el-
rooms and large bathrooms, though some egant rooms with lovely aesthetic touches,
rooms could use an extra chair…or even azure bedspreads, a gorgeous lush court-
a chair at all. The friendly owners will let yard garden and a breezy rooftop terrace
you leave luggage in a back room even after with fab views from the 3rd floor.
you’ve checked out.
102 R I V I E R A MAYA • • P l a y a d e l C a r m e n Book accommodations online
w w at
w .www.lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
TOP END El Cuerna de Oro (Cnr Calle 2 & 10 Av; set meals
Hotel Hacienda del Caribe (% 873-3132; www US$3-5; h7am-10pm) Hearty, homestyle set
.haciendadelcaribe.com; Calle 2 No 130; d low/high season meals are served in this casual eatery near
US$79/112; pas) This Italian-run place the bus station. You get a giant portion of
was built in 2000. Its bright yellow, quiet, your selected dish (the three or four op-
comfortable rooms have lovely décor, air- tions change nightly) plus rice, beans, and
con and cable TV. Many have balconies. unlimited refills of the nightly drink, such
The courtyard has a small pool with hydro- as hibiscus water or iced tea. The breakfasts
massage, and parking in a nearby lot is free are skippable.
while you stay. Coffee Press (Calle 2 near Quinta Av; breakfast US$3,
Mosquito Blue (%873-1245; www.mosquitoblue lunch mains US$3-5; h8am-1pm & 2-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-
.com; Quinta Av btwn Calles 12 & 14; d standard/deluxe 1pm Sun) Makes some of the best breakfasts
Dec 16-Apr 30 & Aug 1-Aug 30 US$130/140, May 1-Jul and coffee in town, and serves a selection
31 & Sep 1-Dec 15 US$100/110; s) Strives for – of gourmet teas. Also offers books and two-
and at times achieves – ultrachicness. Its for-one exchanges.
cloistered interior boasts two pools and Babe’s (Calle 10 btwn Quinta & 10 Avs; mains US$4-9;
courtyards, a bar and restaurant and very h noon-11:30pm Mon-Sat, 5-11:30pm Sun) Babe’s
nicely decorated rooms furnished in Indo- serves some excellent Thai food, including
nesian mahogany. Art and artistic touches a yummy home-style tom ka gai (chicken
abound throughout the hotel, which has and coconut-milk soup) brimming with
junior and master suites as well as the veggies. Excellent Vietnamese salad (with
standard and deluxe rooms. shrimp and mango) is another specialty.
Blue Parrot Inn (%873-0083, in USA 800-854-4498; Most dishes can be done vegetarian, and
fax 873-0049; Calle 12 at beach; r US$110, ste US$690) to mix things up a bit the Swedish cook
Many of the charming units have terraces, has some tasty Greek items on the menu
sea views and full kitchens. It also has the as well.
popular Dragon Bar (opposite). Restaurant 100% Natural (% 873-2242; cnr
Quinta Av & Calle 10; mains US$3.50-10; h7am-11pm)
Eating The trademarks of this place, vegetable-
As happens in other tourist-oriented places and fruit-juice blends, salads, various veg-
on the Yucatán Peninsula, some Playa res- etable and chicken dishes and other healthy
taurants add a service charge to the bill. foods, are delicious and filling. The green
You are not required to pay it; however, courtyard is inviting, but service – while
a 10% to 15% tip for good service is ap- always friendly – is often very slow. Don’t
preciated. Again, head out of the Tourist come here if you’ve got a ferry you have
Zone to find cheap, quality eats such as to catch.
great grilled chicken from Asadero Olmeca Club Náutico Tarraya (% 873-2040; Calle 2 at
(mains US$3; h7am-6pm), next to the Tulum- beach; mains US$6-12; hnoon-9pm) One of the
bound colectivos. few restaurants in Playa del Carmen that
La Floresta (Hwy 307; tacos US$1.30, ceviches &
cocktails US$7-8; h 9am-4:30pm) Don’t even
think about it, just sit down and order THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE
at least three shrimp tacos right away. John Gray’s Place (%803-3689; www.johngray
They are lightly battered, then fried restaurants.com; Calle Corazón 5TA btwn Calles 12
and served in a soft corn tortilla with a & 14; mains US$11-25; h6-11pm Mon-Sat) The
dab of mayo and some chopped tomato sister restaurant to John Gray’s Kitchen
and onions. Squeeze a lime wedge over it, in Puerto Morelos, it has a dark wood
add a touch of spicy green or red salsa and bar downstairs, and the same spectacular
chow down. food. Crab cakes melt on the tongue, set
Pizza Pazza (%803-0903; slices US$2; hnoon- off by a dash of Asian vinaigrette and a
midnight) There are two branches, one on 10 few cilantro leaves. Chicken with cilantro
Av between Calles 8 and 10, and one on pesto is a favorite. Norah Jones croons in
Calle 12 between 10 and Quinta Avenidas. the background as you polish off your glass
They bake some brilliant thin-crust Sardeg- of wine.
nian pies, with various tasty toppings.
www.lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • P l a y a d e l C a r m e n 103
Q U I N TA N A R O O
dates from the 1960s. It continues to offer
good seafood at decent prices in a casual THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE
place with a nice view. Salon Riviera (% 803-0807; cnr 12 & 1 Avs;
Buenos Aires (%873-2751; off Quinta Av btwn Calles h10pm-4am) A smoke-filled, jam-packed
4 & 6; mains US$6-14; h6pm-midnight) Well known dance venue based on Cuban clubs of the
for its steaks, ribs, burgers and other meaty 1950s. Waitresses weave with full trays
items, made only with Angus beef, it’s a through thick crowds, and everyone –
grill, Argentine-style, where waiters walk locals and tourists – has way too much of
around with huge skewers and slice all the a good time.
carne you can eat onto your plate.
Alux (%803-0713; Av Juárez; snacks US$4-9, mains
US$12-14; h7pm-2am) About three blocks west weather’s bad…and lots of sand. A good op-
of Hwy 307, the Alux is an amazing must- tion for nonsmokers, as the beach breezes
visit. It’s a restaurant-lounge situated in a tend to whisk the smoke away. At the time
cavern: stalactites, stalagmites, pools and all. of research the palapa had burned down in
Candles and dim electric lights illuminate a freak torch-juggling accident, but the bar
numerous nooks and crannies converted simply opened up again a few weeks later
into sofalike seating. Wander through, have and the party raged on…and people danced
a bite to eat or a drink and revel in the under the stars.
atmosphere. It offers live music nightly at Apasionado (%803-1101; cnr Quinta Av & Calle 14;
10pm, and a party on Saturday night. h8:30pm-2am) A jazz bar–restaurant with live
Xlapak (%879-3595; Quinta Av btwn Calles 14 & music most nights, from Latin jazz to steel
14bis; breakfast US$3, lunch & dinner US$7-18; h8am- drums. The upstairs venue is beautiful – an
11pm) Serves delicious food at unbelievably enormous palapa is festooned with huge
low prices. Lunch and dinner consists of a flat lampshades and tin globes emitting a
starter, a main dish (accompanied by rice, soft yellow light. The phyllo-wrapped tuna
steamed veggies and garlic bread) and a tartare (US$9.80) is a real treat.
dessert. Try the chicken with chaya (a spin-
achlike green) salsa and wash it down with Getting There & Away
one of a wide selection of juices and drinks. BOAT
The restaurant is very nicely done up like a Ferries to Cozumel (US$11 one way) leave
Maya temple, with faithfully rendered re- at 6am, 8am, 9am, 10am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm,
productions of Maya murals on the walls 5pm, 6pm, 7pm, 9pm and 11pm. The air-
and plants everywhere. conditioned catamaran takes about half an
hour, depending on weather. Buy tickets at
Entertainment the booth on Calle 1 Sur. An open-air boat
Venues here come and go, so ask around (same ticket but running less regularly)
if you’re wondering where the party is (or takes 45 minutes to an hour; it operates
where it isn’t). You’ll find everything from mostly in the summer season.
mellow, tranced-out lounge bars to classic
rock-n-roll places. Here are a few options BUS
we found fun. Playa has two bus terminals; each sells tick-
Tequila Barrel (%873-1061; Quinta Av btwn Calles ets and provides information for at least
10 & 12; h8am-2am) Newly expanded with a some of the other’s departures. The newer
large dancing area in back, this sparkling one, Terminal ADO (20 Av), just east of Calle
clean bar and grill pours a huge selection 12, is where most 1st-class bus lines arrive
of tequila and other spirits, and spins old and depart. Riviera’s buses (which don’t
rock and Motown CDs. Grab a partner even entirely deserve the designation ‘1st-class’
if you didn’t come with one and cut up anyhow) use the old terminal. A taxi from
some rug. Terminal ADO to the main plaza will run
Dragon Bar (% 873-0083; Calle 12 at beach; about US$1.20.
h11am-4am) This is the Blue Parrot Inn’s The old bus station, Terminal del Centro
immensely popular open-sided palapa (cnr Av Juárez & Quinta Av), gets all the 2nd-class
beachfront bar with swing chairs, a giant (called ‘intermedio’ by such lines as Mayab)
outdoor dance stage, indoor section if the services. Riviera buses to Cancún and its
104 R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
airport have a separate ticket counter on take years for them to recover completely.
the Av Juárez side of the terminal. The table The squadrons of eagle rays have dwindled
(above) shows some distances, travel times due to overfishing of the shellfish stocks –
and prices for buses. no shellfish, no eagle rays.
While diving is the main draw, the tour-
COLECTIVOS ist zone offers lots of shopping ‘deals’ (often
Colectivos are a great option for cheap travel not very cheap) and you’ll be hounded to
southward to Tulum (US$2, 45 minutes). buy Cuban cigars, hammocks and jewelry.
They depart from Calle 2 near 20 Avenida In February there is a festive Carnaval, which
as soon as they fill (about every 10 or 15 brings dancers festooned with feathers out
minutes) from 5am to 10pm. They will stop into the plaza, and a lot of onlookers too. It’s
anywhere along the highway between Playa not Rio, but it’s still fun. There are some small
and Tulum, charging a minimum of US$1. Maya ruins and a few eco-themed parks.
Luggage space is somewhat limited, but The far side of the island has beautiful
they’re great for day trips. beaches and a few large waves, but you’ll
have difficulty surfing and should watch
ISLA COZUMEL for currents. The beach near the port was
%987 / pop 74,000 horrible at last pass: the hurricane left it
Cozumel is one of the jewels of Yucatán, an littered with trash, chunks of cement and
immensely popular diving spot since 1961, rusty rebar. At the time of research plans
when Jacques Cousteau, led by local guides, were under way to revitalize it by bringing
showed spectacular reefs to the world. It in bargeloads of sand and replanting the
lies 71km south of Cancún; measuring area with coconut palms, but this may be
53km by 14km, it is Mexico’s largest island. politically motivated chat. If it goes through
Called Ah-Cuzamil-Peten (Island of Swal- it should mean better sunbathing for the
lows) by its earliest inhabitants, Cozumel few who aren’t strapping on scuba gear.
has become a world-famous diving desti-
nation. Despite Hurricane Wilma, which History
pummeled the island for 54 hours, most of Maya settlement here dates from AD 300.
the deep reefs were unharmed. Sadly, waves During the post-Classic period Cozumel
and sand from the storm have damaged flourished as a trade center and, more im-
some of the shallower snorkeling and dives portantly, a ceremonial site. Every Maya
sites. While they are still beautiful, it will woman living on the Yucatán Peninsula
www.lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l 105
Q U I N TA N A R O O
and beyond was expected to make at least about 200 escaped genocidal attacks by
one pilgrimage here to pay tribute to Ixchel, conquistadors in the late 1540s.
the goddess of fertility and the moon, at a The island remained virtually deserted
temple erected in her honor. Archaeologists into the late 17th century, its coves provid-
believe this temple was at San Gervasio, a bit ing sanctuary for several notorious pirates,
north of the island’s geographical center. including Jean Lafitte and Henry Morgan.
At the time of the first Spanish contact In 1848 indigenous people fleeing the War
with Cozumel (in 1518, by Juan de Grijalva of the Castes began to resettle Cozumel.
and his men), there were at least 32 Maya At the beginning of the 20th century the
building groups on the island. According island’s (by then mostly mestizo) popula-
to Spanish chronicler Diego de Landa, a tion grew, thanks to the craze for chewing
year later Cortés sacked one of the Maya gum. Cozumel was a port of call on the
centers but left the others intact, appar- chicle export route, and locals harvested the
ently satisfied with converting the island’s gum base on the island. After the demise of
population to Christianity. Smallpox in- chicle Cozumel’s economy remained strong
troduced by the Spanish wiped out half owing to the construction of a US air base
the 8000 Maya and, of the survivors, only here during WWII.
0 8 km
ISLA COZUMEL 0 4 miles
Playa del
Carmen See Playa del
Carmen Map (p100)
MEX
307
Fe Punta
rry Molas
to
Pl Lighthouse
ay
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m Aguada
en Hotel Xlapak Grande
Playa
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rF Melgar El Castillo
err
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oC
alic See San Miguel de Pilar
a Playa
Cozumel Map (p107)
Airport Xhanan
Santa
Rita
San Miguel San
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Playa
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Cozumel rre
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Santa
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Playa San & Grill Punta
Beach Club Morena
Francisco
Playa
Chen Río
ὄὄ
Parque Marino
Nacional Arrecifes
de Cozumel
El Cedral
Playa de
San Martín
Playa
Palancar
Arrecife Punta
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Palancar Chiqueros
ὄὄ
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CARIBBEAN
ra
Su
Playa El
r
Laguna Mirador
Colombia SEA
Chun
Chacab Playa Box
Playa Encantada
Punta Parque Punta Sur
Celarain Lighthouse
106 R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
When the US military departed, the is- Cozumel Hyperbaric Research (%872-0103; Calle 6
land fell into an economic slump, and many Norte btwn Avs 5 & 10 Norte) In the Médica San Miguel clinic.
of its people moved away. Those who stayed
fished for a living until 1961, when Cous- MONEY
teau’s documentary broadcast Cozumel’s ATMs are the best way to get quick cash.
glorious sea life to the world. The tourists For currency exchange, try any of the banks
began arriving almost overnight. near the main plaza. All are open 8am or
9am to 4:30pm Monday to Friday and on
Orientation & Information Saturday morning.
It’s easy to make your way on foot around The many casas de cambio (currency-
the island’s only town, San Miguel de Cozu- exchange houses) around town may charge
mel. The waterfront boulevard is Av Rafael as much as 3.5% commission (the bank rate
Melgar; along Melgar south of the main ferry is 1%) to cash a traveler’s check, but they
dock (Muelle Fiscal) is a narrow sand beach. keep longer hours. Most of the major ho-
The main plaza is opposite the ferry dock. tels, restaurants and stores will also change
The airport is 2km northeast. An excellent money or accept US dollars in payment –
documentary on Cozumel diving is available some at a fair rate. Many establishments
at www.cozumelnaturaltreasure.com. charge a fee when accepting credit cards;
always ask beforehand.
BOOKSTORES
Fama (%872-5020; Av 5 Norte btwn Av Benito Juárez & POST
Calle 2 Norte; h9am-10pm Mon-Sun) Carries books and Post office (Calle 7 Sur at Av Rafael Melgar; h9am-
periodicals in English and Spanish, as well as a selection of 5pm Mon-Fri)
CDs, clothing and skimpy bathing suits.
TELEPHONE
EMERGENCY The Telecomm office handles faxes, money
Tourist police (%872-0092) They patrol the island and orders and such. Telmex card phones
staff a kiosk (open 8am to 11pm) at the northeast edge are abundant around town and are often
of the plaza. cheaper than Internet cafés.
ar
Ca e
elg
33 lle 12
e
M
6
Nt
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el
Passenger 24
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9
5
fa
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Nt
Av
Ra
Ferry Dock
15
e
Av
(Muelle Fiscal)
Nt
38
Av
16 44 29
10
Ca
25 lle
Av
7 42 4
2 2 Nt
13 e
15 Ca
Main 10 lle INFORMATION Hacienda San Miguel.............22 D1
CARIBBEAN SEA Plaza 3 41 2 N Banca Serfin (ATM)..................1 C2 Hotel Bahía............................23 C3
te
Banorte ATM...........................2 C2 Hotel Cozumel Inn.................24 C2
e
Av
Nt
36 14
18 Be Banorte ATM...........................3 C2 Hotel Edem............................25 C2
20
8 ni e
Av
39 1 to
Ju Nt Buceo Médico Mexicano Hotel Flamingo......................26 D1
21 ár 25 (Hyperbaric Chamber)..........4 B3 Hotel Marruang.....................27 C3
R I V I E R A MAYA • • S a n M i g u e l d e C o z u m e l 107
ez Av
Ca
23
6 Cozumel Hyperbaric Hotel Pepita...........................28 C3
lle
Telmex
e
1
Nt
Research...............................(see 9) Suites Vima............................29 D2
Su
35
40
r
Cruz Roja.................................5 C3
e
28
Nt
Av
e)
31
Ca
Av
30
Cruise 17
lle
a
Av
Ca
Ὀ
ὈὈ
Fama....................................... 7 C2 Cocina Mexicana Los Ríos......30 B3
nt
e
3
Ship 4 Av Ca
Nt
lle
ui
ur
Su
S Be
40
r
3 15 ni 2
MédicaNtSan
Nt
e
Av
to Miguel Clinic........ 9 D2 Costa Brava............................32 B3
r
r
11 Av
Su
Su
Ca
32 Mercado Ju e
ár Phonet...................................10 C2 El Morrito III...........................33 D1
r
10
lle
5
Su
Municipal ez
Av
27
Av
Ca
5S
20
lle
Post Office.............................11 B3 Jeannie’s Waffle House..........34 A3
e
Av
ur
Nt
30 1
Su Servi-Lav............................... 12 D2 La Cocay...............................35 D2
r
Su
45
34 r Telecomm Office.................(see 11) Los Dorados de Villa..............36 C2
Ca
25
Av
ὈὈ
e
Ca
lle
Nt
lle
7S
50
Tourist Information Office..... 14 C2 Pastelería y Panadería
r
Ca Dr
Su
ur
Av
lle Ad
Ca
M
30
olf Tourist Police......................... 15 C2 Zermatt............................. 38 D2
lle
Park
Av
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ur
lle
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3 Sa SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
ca
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Av
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SLEEPING ADO Terminal....................... 42 D2
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Q U I N TA N A R O O
108 R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Q U I N TA N A R O O
COZUMEL’S TOP DIVE SITES
Ask any dive operator in Cozumel to name the best dive sites in the area and the following
names will come up time and again.
Colombia Shallows
Also known as Colombia Gardens, Colombia Shallows lends itself equally well to snorkeling and
scuba diving. Because it’s a shallow dive (maximum depth 10m, average 2m to 4m), its massive
coral buttresses covered with sponges and other resplendent life forms are well illuminated. The
current at Colombia Gardens is generally light to moderate. This and the shallow water allows
you to spend hours at the site if you want, and you’ll never get bored spying all the elkhorn
coral, pillar coral and anemones that live there.
Palancar Gardens
Also known as Palancar Shallows, and thus one of the spots that sustained serious Wilma dam-
age, this dive can be appreciated by snorkelers due to the slight current usually found there
and its modest maximum depth (20m). The Gardens consists of a strip reef about 25m wide and
very long, riddled with fissures and tunnels. The major features here are enormous stovepipe
sponges and vivid yellow tube sponges, and you can always find damselfish, parrot fish and
angelfish around you. In the deeper parts of the reef, divers will want to keep an eye out for
the lovely black corals.
Arrecife Cantarell
On this section of reef off the northwest side of the island, large numbers of eagle rays congre-
gate from late November to the end of January. Many divers are happy to see just one of these
large rays up close; watching squadrons of them is quite a sight.
The beach is a nice one, though, and 50m Another vehicle carries visitors to Laguna Co-
inland is a limestone lagoon surrounded lombia, part of a three-lagoon system that is
by iguanas and inhabited by turtles. You’re the habitat of crocodiles and many resident
not allowed to swim or snorkel there, but and migratory waterfowl. A pontoon-boat
it’s picturesque all the same. The beach is ride on the lagoon costs US$3 extra; it gives
lined with palapas and fiberglass lounge you a chance to see more birds. Crocs can
chairs, and you can rent snorkel and dive be seen (when they feel like it) from shore,
equipment. via a trail through mangrove or a bridge
Dolphin and sea lion shows are included over the lagoon.
in the admission price, as is the use of dress-
ing rooms, lockers and showers. There’s a East Coast
small archaeological park containing rep- The eastern shoreline is the wildest part
lica Olmec heads and Maya artifacts, a of the island and presents some beauti-
small museum featuring objects imported ful seascapes and many small blowholes.
from Chichén Itzá, and a botanical garden Swimming is dangerous on most of the east
with 400 species of tropical plants. Other coast because of riptides and undertows.
facilities include a restaurant, a bar and With a bit of care you can sometimes swim
snack shops. A taxi from town costs US$10 at Punta Chiqueros, Playa Chen Río and
one way. Punta Morena. At the time of research the
few restaurants here, except for Coconuts
El Cedral (p113), had either been washed into the
This Maya ruin is the oldest on the island. sea by Wilma or were temporarily closed.
It’s the size of a small house and has no or- Bring a picnic lunch and plan on having
namentation, but costs nothing to visit and the beach to yourself.
is easy to reach, unlike San Gervasio and
other ruins on Cozumel. It’s 3.5km down a Punta Molas
signed paved road that heads off to the left Beyond where the east coast highway meets
(east) a kilometer or two south of Nachi- the Carretera Transversal, intrepid travelers
Cocom’s access road, hiding amid a forest may take a poorly maintained, infrequently
of pole structures painted yellow and white traveled and almost impossible to find road
and erected as souvenir stalls. El Cedral is toward Punta Molas, the island’s northeast
thought to have been an important ceremo- point, accessible only by four-wheel drive
nial site; the small church standing next to (4WD), all-terrain vehicles (ATV) or on
the tiny ruin today is evidence that the site foot. At the time of research, much of the
still has religious significance for locals. road had been washed away by Wilma, so
it remains to be seen whether repairs will
Playa Palancar happen anytime soon. About 17km up the
About 17km south of town, Palancar is road are the Maya ruins known as El Castillo
another great beach. It has a beach club Real, and a few kilometers further is Aguada
renting hydro bikes, kayaks, snorkel gear Grande. Both sites are quite far gone, their
and sailboats, plus a restaurant and a dive significance lost to time. In the vicinity of
operation. Near the beach, Arrecife Palan- Punta Molas are some fairly good beaches
car (Palancar Reef) has some very good and a few more minor ruins. If you head
diving (Palancar Gardens), as well as fine up this road be aware that you can’t count
snorkeling (Palancar Shallows), though the on flagging down another motorist for help
shallow spots were marked by Wilma. See in the event of a breakdown or accident,
p109 for more information. and most rental agencies’ insurance poli-
cies don’t cover any mishaps on unpaved
Parque Punta Sur roads.
The southern tip of the island has been
turned into a rather overpriced ‘ecotouristic San Gervasio
park’ (%872-0914; admission US$10; h9am-5pm). This Maya complex (admission US$5.20; h7am-4pm)
Visitors board an open vehicle for the 3km is Cozumel’s only preserved ruins, and a
ride to visit picturesque Celarain lighthouse prime example of the local government’s
and the small nautical museum at its base. efforts to milk dollars out of cruise-ship
Book
w w waccommodations
. l o n e l y p l a n e online
t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l 111
Q U I N TA N A R O O
passengers. San Gervasio is thought to have two double beds, refrigerators and air-con
been the site of the sanctuary of Ixchel, (many catch a good breeze), and there’s free
goddess of fertility, and thus an important morning coffee. Once one of the best deals in
pilgrimage site at which Maya women – in town, the Pepita at last pass was maintaining
particular prospective mothers – worshi- its rates while many others were dropping
ped. But its structures are small and crude, theirs. It’s still a great place to stay.
and the clay idols of Ixchel were long ago
destroyed by the Spaniards. Even so, the MIDRANGE
national government’s INAH levies a hefty Suites Vima (%/fax 872-5118; Av 10 Norte btwn Calles 4 &
US$3 entrance fee. The island’s ayuntami- 6; s/d US$35/45; as) Has 12 spotless and spa-
ento (municipal government) tacks on an- cious modern rooms with tiled floors, firm
other US$2 for maintenance of its ticket beds, good air-con and bathrooms, fridges,
booth and the road, which at last pass was tables and chairs. The décor is mint green
in pretty crummy shape. and other pastels. A small swimming pool
with a current to swim against lies in a green
Sleeping area in back. No kids aged under 13, please.
All hotel rooms come with private bath- Amigo’s B&B (%872-3868; www.bacalar.net; Calle
room and fan, unless otherwise noted. 7 Sur No 57 btwn Avs 25 & 30 Sur; d/tr/q Jan 4-Apr 30
Almost all places raise their rates at Christ- US$65/75/85, Sep & Oct US$40/50/60, May 1-Aug 31 &
mas and Easter weeks. ‘High season’ is mid- Nov 1-Dec 20 US$50/60/70; ais) Has a large
December to mid-April, but whatever the garden, wifi access, an inviting pool and a
season, if business is slow, most places are good lounging area stocked with reading
open to negotiation. material. It’s worth the hike from the center
to enjoy one of the three well-appointed,
BUDGET cottage-style rooms here. All have air-con
Hotel Edem (%872-1166; [email protected]; Calle and full kitchenettes and rates include a
2 Norte No 124; s/d/tr US$18/22/27) Great location good breakfast. Book ahead.
and saintly rates make the Edem a prime Hotel Bahía (% 872-9090, 800-227-2639; www
deal. It has a turtle-filled fountain and a .suitesbahia.com; cnr Av Rafael Melgar & Calle 3 Sur; d low/
friendly Siamese cat, and the no-nonsense high season from US$49/63; ia) Offers some
Senora keeps the doors locked after 9pm. rooms with sea views and balconies. All
Rooms are clean and simple, with ham- rooms have the same amenities and gen-
mock hooks and scaldingly hot showers. eral setup as the Colonial (they’re under
Mornings are noisy; wear earplugs if you’re the same management). Rates include con-
a light sleeper. tinental breakfast.
Hotel Marruang (% 872-1678; Calle Dr Adolfo Colonial Hotel & Suites (%872-9090, 800-227-
Rosado Salas btwn Avs 20 & 25 Sur; r US$22) Entered 2639; www.suitescolonial.com; Av 5 Sur btwn Calles Dr Adolfo
via a passageway across from the munici- Rosado Salas & 1 Sur; studios/ste Jan 4-Dec 23 US$57/68,
pal market, this place is simple and clean, Dec 24-Jan 3 US$63/75; a) This place is down a
with well-screened fan rooms. The owners passageway off Av 5 Sur. It features lovely
were remodeling at the time of research, but studios and nice, spacious, one-bedroom
pretty paper butterflies brightened the halls. ‘suites’ (beds are separated from the rest of
Be sure not to slam the door! the room by low partitions) with kitchen-
Hotel Cozumel Inn (%872-0314; fax 872-3156; ettes. All rooms have cable TV, fridge and
Calle 4 Norte btwn Avs Rafael Melgar & 5 Norte; s with fan air-con, and lots of varnished-wood touches.
US$23; d with fan/air-con US$28/34; as) A peach- Rates include coffee and pastries.
pink building with 26 well-maintained Hotel Flamingo (%872-1264; www.hotelflamingo
rooms with good beds, and a small (some- .com; Calle 6 Norte 81 btwn Avs 5 Norte & Rafael Melgar; r
times suspect!) swimming pool. Watch out, low season US$59-79, high season US$79-85; a) The
though, the hotel’s card says ‘Bats with hot colorful Hotel Flamingo is a nicely deco-
water’! Mustiness airs out quickly. rated place with spacious air-conditioned
Hotel Pepita (%/fax 872-0098; Av 15 Sur btwn rooms (some with fridges) sporting direct-
Calle 1 Sur & Calle Dr Adolfo Rosado Salas; d US$31; a) dial phones. Common areas include a leafy
This place is friendly, with well-maintained courtyard where you can eat breakfast, a
rooms grouped around a garden. All have 2nd-floor pool table, a bar, and a rooftop
112 R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l Book accommodations online
w w at
w .www.lonelyplanet.com
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Q U I N TA N A R O O
serves waffles, of course, plus hash-brown 11pm things wind down. Try the plaza first
potatoes, eggs, sandwiches and other tidbits. if you’re looking to mingle with the wilder
Great frozen coffees beat the midday heat. cruise-ship crowd. You are best off asking
Los Dorados de Villa (%872-0196; Calle 1 Sur around, as the clubs change frequently.
near Av 5 Sur; mains US$5-12; h7am-11pm) Near La Cocay (left) is a great place for an after-
the edge of the plaza, it specializes in food dinner drink and has nice ambiance, with
from the Distrito Federal (Mexico City and candles and a high ceiling.
surroundings), but has a wide variety of La Xtabay (Av 10 btwn Calles 2 & 4; hnoon-midnight
Mexican dishes including seafood and cuts Wed-Mon) has nightly live music and cheap
of meat. The spinach crêpes are great. beers, but it’s a bit seedy. Don’t bring any-
Restaurant La Choza (%872-0958; cnr Dr Adolfo one you meet here home to meet mother.
Rosado Salas & Av 10 Sur; mains US$8-15; h 7am- Coconuts is a low-key place on the is-
10:30pm) An excellent and popular restaurant land’s east side with inexpensive beers and
specializing in authentic regional cuisine. palapas to sit under.
All mains come with soup. La Choza some-
times offers an inexpensive comida corrida Getting There & Away
in the afternoon. AIR
Some airlines fly direct from the USA; Euro-
TOP END pean flights are usually routed via the USA
Pancho’s Backyard (%872-2141; Av Rafael Melgar & or Mexico City. Continental (%800-900-5000, in
Calle 8 Norte; lunch mains US$6-16, dinner mains US$9-25; USA & Canada 800-231-0856; www.continental.com) has
h10am-11pm Mon-Sat, 5-11pm Sun) Very atmos- direct flights from Newark and Houston.
pheric, set in a beautifully decorated inner Mexicana (%872-0305) flies direct to Mexico
courtyard. The food’s not bad, either! City on Saturday and Sunday. Click (%872-
La Cocay (%872-5533; [email protected] 0928), with offices at the airport, flies a few
.mx; Calle 8 Norte No 208, btwn Calles 10 & 15; mains US$8- times daily between Cancún and Cozumel.
30; h1pm-11pm Mon-Sat) Romantic coconut-
scented candlelight and an intimate atmos- BOAT
phere make this snazzy restaurant a lot of Passenger ferries run to Cozumel from
fun. Sit at the bar sipping a good single malt Playa del Carmen, and vehicle ferries leave
or find a quiet table in the corner (or the the Calica facility (officially known as the
back room) to chat with someone special. Terminal Marítima Punta Venado) south
The menu features mouthwatering dishes of Playa del Carmen. However, the vehicle
such as prosciutto-wrapped shrimp stuffed ferry does not take rentals. Unless you’re
with cheese and spinach or (mmm!) duck driving your own car, use the Playa pas-
with black cherries. The signature dessert senger ferry instead. Schedules are not set
is a chocolate torte served in the form of an in stone, but currently there are four de-
edible painting of chocolate and kiwi sauce. partures from Cozumel for Calica between
The welcoming owners seem to know every 6am and 8pm. Four ferries return from
guest by name. Calica between 4am and 6pm. Saturdays
Pepe’s Grill (%872-0213; Av Rafael Melgar near and Sundays have two departures in each
Calle Dr Adolfo Rosado Salas; appetizers US$10-12, mains direction. Fares are US$50 for cars, US$80
US$20-30; h5pm-11pm) This is Cozumel’s tra- for a van-sized vehicles (both including the
ditional place to drop loads of cash in din- driver) and US$7 per passenger. You need
ing richly. Mains are mostly meat (steaks to line up at least one hour before departure
and prime rib), plus char-broiled lobster (earlier is better, they say).
(US$38). At least the prices include a salad
bar (also available separately at US$7.50). BUS
Flambé desserts are a feast for both the eyes OK, it may sound silly, but you can actu-
and the tastebuds, and are prepared – quite ally get long-distance bus tickets in ad-
spectacularly – tableside. vance at the ADO terminal (%872-1706; cnr Av
10 & Calle 2 Norte; h 6:30am-9pm). Tickets are
Entertainment for services from the Playa del Carmen bus
Cozumel’s nightlife is quiet and subdued. terminal (cnr Juarez & Av 5) for all over Yucatán
Most restaurants are open for drinks, but by and Mexico.
114 R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Q U I N TA N A R O O
DETOUR: CRISTALINO CENOTE
On the west side of the highway south of Playa del Carmen is a series of cenotes (limestone
sinkhole/caverns filled with water) that you can visit and usually swim in for a price. Among
these is Cristalino Cenote (adult/child US$2.50/1.50; h6am-5:30pm), just south of the Barceló Maya
Resort. It’s easily accessible, only about 70m from the entrance gate, which is just off the highway.
The well-tended cenote has mangrove on one side and a large open section you can dive into
by climbing a ladder up to a ledge above it. The water extends about 20m into an overhung,
cavelike portion.
Two more sinkholes, Cenote Azul and El Jardín de Edén, are just south of Cristalino along
the highway.
scare it away. Do your part to contribute to car for US$30, and an all-day swimming,
the survival of these endangered turtles; let snorkeling, fishing and beach tour on a
them lay their eggs in peace. catamaran sailboat for US$60, including
If you come by bus, it’s a 500m walk from food and drinks.
the highway to the hotel and beach. At the northern end of Akumal, Laguna
Yal-Kú (adult/child US$6/3; h 8am-5:30pm) is a
XPU-HÁ beautiful lagoon 2km from the entrance
Xpu-há (shpoo-ha) is a beach area about and over about a zillion topes. The rocky
95km south of Cancún that extends for sev- lagoon runs about 500m from its beginning
eral kilometers. It’s reached by numbered to the sea and is home to many brightly
access roads (most of them private). colored fish, and the occasional visiting tur-
Hotel Villas del Caribe (%984-873-2194, 044 tle and manta ray. Showers, parking and
984-876-9945; www.hotelvillasdelcaribe.com; cabanas bathrooms are included in the admission
US$35-45, r US$45-55), at the end of X-4 (Xpu-há price, lockers are an extra US$1, and snor-
access road 4), is a laid-back place sitting on kel gear and life jackets each cost US$5 to
a handsome stretch of beach whose north- rent. Cabs from the Playa Akumal entrance
ern reaches are nearly empty. All rooms charge about US$3 to the lagoon.
have a terrace or balcony and are very clean You can also simply find a place to park
and quiet, with fans and good beds; most and snorkel or swim on your own, as the
have hammocks as well. Guests can partici- shallow waters are pretty and fun. Close
pate in yoga and meditation classes, and the to the shore you will not have problems
hotel offers meal plans at its good on-site with currents, though at times the surf can
restaurant. be rough.
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Pescador restaurant, inside and just north US$50/80. The snorkeling price includes a
of the entrance, serves three meals daily. flashlight, wet suit, equipment and trans-
Que Onda, above, has a nice restaurant and portation to the cenotes on a unique ‘jungle
serves coffees from 11am to 4pm. Dinner mobile.’
is served from 5pm to 10pm; the bar closes Another way to see part of the system
around midnight. is through the Dos Ojos (h8am-4:30pm) op-
eration, a short distance north of Hidden
XEL-HÁ Worlds. It’s run by the Maya community
Once a pristine natural lagoon brimming who own the land. The entrance fee is US$8
with iridescent tropical fish and ringed on and snorkeling gear is US$7 more. You can
three sides by untouched mangroves, Xel-Há dive here as well, if accompanied by a certi-
(%984-875-6000; adult/child 5-11yr Mon-Fri US$25/13, fied cave diver.
Sat & Sun US$19/10; h 9am-6pm), pronounced Check out p120 or more great cenotes
shell-hah, is now a private park with land- in this area.
scaped grounds, developed cenotes, caves,
nature paths, underwater walks with oxy- BAHÍAS DE PUNTA SOLIMÁN
gen helmet (at additional cost), several These two beautiful, protected bays are
restaurant-bars and more. Like Xcaret, its separated by a narrow point, 123km south
main competitor, it’s overpriced and you of Cancún and 11km north of Tulum. The
are better off with the less expensive or free area offers good wildlife watching, kayak-
alternatives that abound. ing, snorkeling and dining opportunities.
As boxed in as the nature is, it does offer A few hundred meters in after the signed
some close encounters with giant turtles turnoff from Hwy 307, you can bear left
and dolphins, interesting dioramas and ex- (north) to reach Oscar y Lalo’s (%984-804-6973;
hibits, and would be a fun place for kids if mains US$6-10; sites per person US$3; h10am-8pm),
one wanted a break from the beach. Alter- a picturesque restaurant that has the en-
natively, rent some snorkel gear and plop tire Bahía Solimán to itself. The kitchen
into any shoreline for similar experiences puts out heaping plates of food, including
with fish and turtles that aren’t in a cage. fish fillets (US$10) and barracuda steaks
(US$6), both of which come with french
Underwater Cave Tours fries, fried banana, rice, beans and a plate of
About 1km south of Xel-Há is the turnoff tortillas with green and red salsa. Chicken
for Cenote Dos Ojos, which provides access to fajitas are also US$6, and couples can order
the enormous Dos Ojos cave system. You elaborate specials such as king crab stuffed
can take guided snorkel and dive tours of with lobster and shrimp (US$65). Tourists
some amazing underwater caverns, float- tend to photograph the food here, which
ing past illuminated stalactites and sta- gives you an idea of the presentation, and
lagmites in an eerie wonderland. With an the restaurant’s beachside hammocks are
aggregate length of nearly 57km, it’s the ideal for an after-meal snooze.
third-largest underwater cave system in Oscar rents kayaks for US$8 an hour;
the world. Ox Bel Ha and Nohoch Nah you can paddle out to the reef that shelters
Chich (about 97km and 61km total length, the entire mouth of the bay and snorkel or
respectively), are relatively nearby. Divers bird-watch. The dense mangrove around
have tried for years to find a passage link- the 150m stretch of (somewhat spiky) white
ing Dos Ojos and Nohoch Nah Chich to beach breeds quite a few mosquitoes and
prove them to be one humongous system. sand flies; you’ll want a tent with very good
They succeeded in linking Nohoch with screens if you’re camping.
one of its outlets to the sea (at Cenote Man- Back on the main access road, heading
atí in Tankah). While that was going on, straight a short distance beyond the turnoff
new kid on the block Ox Bel Ha was found for Oscar’s brings you to an intersection.
to be really big. Continuing straight here leads to the end
Hidden Worlds (% 984-877-8535; www.hidden of the point via a road that splits and re-
worlds.com.mx) is an American-run outfit of- joins itself a few times. The little-traveled
fering three-hour guided snorkeling tours track makes a great nature walk: you can see
for US$40, and one-/two-tank dives for both bays, and birding in the perennially
118 R I V I E R A MAYA • • Ta n k a h www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
dry mangrove area is terrific. Birds of inter- To reach the places described here, turn
est here include the Yucatán vireo, Yucatán east at the ‘Casa Cenote’ sign, go 700m,
woodpecker, rose-throated tanager, black then turn left and head north up the coast.
catbird and orange oriole. If you’re very You’ll come to Tankah Inn first, then Casa
lucky you may spot one of the pumas seen Cenote, which is less than 2km from the
in the area from time to time. highway.
Turning right (south) at the intersection Room rates vary seasonally and the
rather than going straight takes you along ranges given here don’t include the Christ-
the edge of the bay on the other side of mas (and for some, Easter and Thanks-
the point, also named Bahía Solimán (though giving) peaks. High season is roughly
some call it Bahía de San Francisco). It has mid-December to late April.
terrific coral heads, tons of colorful fish, Tankah Inn (%in Canada 250-342-2834, in USA
plenty of grouper and reef sharks, and the 936-636-7721; www.tankah.com; d low/high season
occasional sea turtle and even tuna. US$77/100) This has five comfortable rooms
A number of beach houses, some quite with tiled floors; the beds, bathrooms and
luxurious, line the road. Most of them rent cross-ventilation are all good. A large up-
by the week, at well over US$1000. A good stairs kitchen-dining room and common
website for house rentals in the area is area has splendid views. At last pass the
www.locogringo.com. inn’s dive operation was still getting back
One happy exception to the rent-the- on its feet, but it was at least ready to
whole-house-for-a-bundle rule is German- offer snorkel tours by boat to the reef for
owned Casa Seis Machos (% 984-804-3345; d US$20, and rent out snorkel gear (US$6
May-Nov US$45, Dec-Apr US$60), which has six per day) and kayaks (US$5 per hour, free
fan-cooled bedrooms all with tiled floors, for guests).
private bathrooms and sliding glass doors Casa Cenote (%998-874-5170; www.casacenote
opening onto a balcony or terrace over- .com; ste with breakfast & dinner low/high season
looking the bay. US$123/168) It’s just across the road from
The road continues south beyond an- Cenote Manatí, leading many people to
other point and through what, at last pass, apply the hotel’s name to the water feature.
looked to be a large residential development Its seven beachside ‘casitas’ are lovingly
in the making – lot after lot, each with its done up with Maya touches, and each has
electricity meter waiting out the front for a screened sliding glass door leading to its
connection. It continues into the Tankah own little terrace with hammock. By the
area and loops back northwest to rejoin the time you read this, all rooms should have
highway. air-con. The palapa-style restaurant serves
Most people get to Punta Solimán by car, fresh seafood, with a Texas-style barbecue
or by taking a bus to Tulum and a taxi on Sundays. Room-only rates are offered
from there. in addition to the meal plan (which lets
you order anything on the menu, including
TANKAH shrimp and lobster).
A few kilometers south of the Hwy 307
turnoff for Punta Solimán is the turnoff TULUM
for Tankah, which also has a picturesque %984 / pop 8400
stretch of beach and accommodations that Tulum’s spectacular coastline – with its
have the sea for a front yard and mangrove confectioner-sugar sands, jade-green water,
out the back. balmy breezes and bright sun – make it
Besides the attractions of beach and reef, one of the top beaches in Mexico. Where
Tankah offers Cenote Manatí, named for the else can you get all that and a dramatically
gentle ‘sea cows’ that used to frequent it. situated Maya ruin? There’s also excellent
Used to. It’s actually a series of seven cenotes diving, fun cenotes, great snorkeling, and
connected by a channel that winds through a variety of lodgings and restaurants to fit
the mangrove a short distance before head- every budget. The town is touristy, sure, but
ing back underground briefly to reach the not at all glitzy – you’re still likely to see a
sea. The snorkeling’s great, as is the birding, turkey loose on the street and (perhaps) an
and both are free. owner hauling dinner back home by the
www.lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • Tu l u m 119
Q U I N TA N A R O O
0 2 km
TULUM 0 1 mile
Airport
A B C D
MEX
To Grand Cenote (3.7km); 307 To Cancún
Cobá (47km); (127km)
Valladolid (100km)
See Tulum Ruins
Map (p122)
1 um
Tul 9
Tulum Av
Tulum
Ruins
5
10 6
16
18
See Enlargement
8
22
To Cenote Angelita 24
(16km); Felipe Carrillo MEX
2 Puerto (100km); 307
Chetumal (250km)
Av
0 200 m Satelite 3
0 0.1 miles
27 26
Osi
12 20
ris
Afa
Cen
Jup
um El Cocodrillo
4 Tul 7
tau
Av
iter
23
3 25
ro
Ori
19 14
21
ón
2 da
17 me
n dro
Bet
AvA
ol 13
a
le S
Cal us
en
11 le V
Cal
Acu
1
ario
15 CARIBBEAN
INFORMATION Posada Margherita ..............(see 15) SEA
4 Centro de Salud.......................1 A3 Rancho Tranquilo...................16 B2
HSBC Bank (ATM)...................2 A3 Weary Traveler......................17 A3
Post Office...............................3 C2 Zazil Kin................................ 18 D2
ruins’ ticket booth. About 400m further free coffee. A brand-new place was open-
south on Hwy 307 (past the gas station) ing up next to the Weary Traveler at the
is the new entrance for vehicles going to time of research.
the ruins; it leads to a parking lot. Another Sian Ka’an Ecoturismo (p131) runs tours
1.5km south on the highway brings you to the magnificent Reserva de la Biósfera
to the Cobá junction; turning right (west) Sian Ka’an stopping at various ancient
takes you to Cobá, and turning east leads Maya sites.
about 3km to the north–south road servic-
ing the Zona Hotelera, the string of water- Dangers & Annoyances
front lodgings extending for more than Tulum is generally safe and locals welcome
10km south from the ruins. This road even- tourists, knowing that most of the area’s
tually enters the Reserva de la Biósfera Sian wealth comes from gringo greenbacks.
Ka’an, continuing some 50km past Boca However, if you nod off on the beach, your
Paila to Punta Allen. valuables (even nonvaluables) may disap-
The town, sometimes referred to as pear. DO NOT listen to touts who wait near
Tulum Pueblo, flanks the highway (called the T-junction of the beach and offer inex-
Avenida Tulum through town) south of the pensive cabanas. Lonely Planet has received
Cobá junction. numerous complaints about deceptive of-
fers that seem cheap at first but (are you
Information really surprised?) turn out to be unpleasant
Tulum has Telmex pay phones, numerous experiences.
currency-exchange booths (one with an When buying gas, be especially careful
ATM), and an HSBC bank (h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) of ‘magician’ attendants, who use sleight of
offering good exchange rates and an ATM hand to make you think you accidentally
open 24 hours. gave them less money. A common trick is
The post office (Av Tulum, btwn Satelite & Cen- to quickly replace (say) a M$500 bill with
tauro; h9am-3:30pm Mon-Fri) is about five blocks a M$50 bill (similar colors), then claim,
north of the bus terminal. ‘Hey, you didn’t give me enough!’ (Or they
There are numerous Internet cafés on might spirit away some bills.) Save your-
Tulum Ave, the main street. All are open self the frustration by having exact change
morning until late, and all offer access for and counting it out loudly, bill by bill, as
about US$1.50/hour. Some even include you pay.
Keep in mind these are fragile environments. Avoid applying sunscreen right before entering the
cenote. Be aware that the rocks are often slippery. Loud noises disturb bats and other creatures. In
rare cases, tourists have been seriously injured or killed by climbing on the roots or stalactites.
For more information about Yucatán’s fascinating cenotes, pick up a copy of Steve Gerrard’s
book, The Cenotes of the Riviera Maya, a beautiful paperback with spectacular photos as well as
detailed info about each listing.
www.lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • Tu l u m 121
Q U I N TA N A R O O
If you do have problems, English- are inferior to those of earlier, more gran-
speaking tourist police are helpful and diose projects – but wow, those Maya oc-
will make an effort to recover your money cupants must have felt pretty smug each
and/or valuables. Don’t get your hopes up sunrise. Iguanas are everywhere, and many
though. act as if they own the place. Please don’t
pester or feed them.
Sights & Activities Tulum is a prime destination for tour
DIVING & SNORKELING groups from Cancún or off the cruise ships
Cenote Dive Center (%871-2232; www.cenotedive docked in the area. To best enjoy the ruins
.com; Av Tulum) is a recommended outfit spe- without feeling like part of the herd, you
cializing in guided cavern dives and also should visit them either early in the morn-
offering cave dives, and cenote and cav- ing or late in the afternoon. Parking costs
ern snorkeling trips. The staff speak Eng- US$4 for cars and US$8 for vans and pick-
lish, Spanish, German and Scandinavian ups. The optional shuttle from the parking
languages. lot to the ticket booth (about a seven-
The dive shop at Zazil-Kin’s (p124) is minute walk) is US$1.50 round-trip. Taxi
a PADI, NACD and TDI operation offer- cabs from town charge US$3.50 and can
ing low-cost reef dives and renting snorkel drop you off at the old entrance road, about
gear for US$5 day, or you can try a two- an 800m walk from the ticket booth.
stop snorkeling tour to the reef by boat for
US$12, including gear and water. History
Snorkeling or swimming right from the Most archaeologists believe that Tulum was
beach is possible and fun, but be extra care- occupied during the late post-Classic pe-
ful of boat traffic (a dive flag is a good riod (AD 1200–1521) and that it was an im-
idea), as the strip between the beach and portant port town during its heyday. When
reef offshore is traveled both by dive boats Juan de Grijalva sailed past in 1518, he was
and fishermen. If there’s a heavy wind on- amazed by the sight of the walled city, its
shore strong currents can develop on the buildings painted a gleaming red, blue and
lee side of the reef. Inexperienced swim- yellow and a ceremonial fire flaming atop
mers should stay close to shore or go out its seaside watchtower.
with a licensed dive operator. The ramparts that surround three sides
of Tulum (the fourth side being the sea)
Cenote Angelita leave little question as to its strategic func-
This spectacular cenote is most notable tion as a fortress. Several meters thick
to divers for the unique, curious, even and 3m to 5m high, the walls protected
eerie layer of hydrogen sulfide that ‘fogs’ the city during a period of considerable
the water about halfway through the de- strife between Maya city-states. Not all of
scent. Look up and see the sunlight filter- Tulum was situated within the walls. The
ing down through ancient submerged tree vast majority of the city’s residents lived
branches that are wonderfully creepy: like outside them; the civic-ceremonial build-
outstretched witches’ arms. The dive is deep ings and palaces likely housed Tulum’s
and should only be done by experienced ruling class.
divers. The city was abandoned about 75 years
after the Spanish conquest. It was one of the
TULUM RUINS last of the ancient cities to be abandoned;
The ruins of Tulum (admission US$45; h8am-5pm) most others had been given back to nature
preside over a rugged coastline, a strip of long before the arrival of the Spanish. But
brilliant beach and green-and-turquoise Maya pilgrims continued to visit over the
waters that will make you want to tear years, and indigenous refugees from the
up that return ticket home. Even on dark, War of the Castes took shelter here from
stormy days, the ruins with their imposing time to time.
ramparts look fit for the cover of a maga- ‘Tulum’ is Maya for ‘wall,’ though its
zine. It’s true the extents and structures are residents called it Zama (Dawn). The name
of a modest scale and the late post-Classic Tulum was apparently applied by explorers
design, workmanship and ornamentation during the early 20th century.
122 R I V I E R A MAYA • • Tu l u m www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Gate
Tower Gate
Entrance
Casa del
ὄὄ
Cenote
Mini-
temples
ὄὄ
Templo del
Dios del Viento
Estructura 25
Beach
Templo del
Dios Descendente
ὄὄ
To Parking (700m); El Palacio
Toilets (700m); Estela 2
Hwy 307 (800m); Oratorio
Tulum (3km) Estructura 20
Plataforma
de la Danza
Tickets
El Castillo
Templo de
las Pinturas
ὄὄ
Exit
CARIBBEAN
No Public
Vehicle Access Archway Templo de SEA
la Estela
To Tulum Zona
Hotelera (475m); Beach
Punta Allen (60km)
Book
w w waccommodations
. l o n e l y p l a n e online
t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • Tu l u m 123
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Temple of the Initial Series. Stela 1, now in TULUM PUEBLO & NORTH
the British Museum, was found here. It was You have to use a taxi (or hitchhike) to get
inscribed with the Maya date correspond- to the beach. If you crave sand and surf,
ing to AD 564 (the ‘initial series’ of Maya consider the Zona Hotelera.
hieroglyphs in an inscription gives its date). Weary Traveler (%871-2389; www.wearytraveler
At first this confused archaeologists, who .info; Av Tulum; s/d US$12/21) Turn right out of the
believed Tulum had been settled several bus station and walk one block south. A fun
hundred years later than this date. It’s now hostel and a great place to meet friends, the
thought that Stela 1 was brought to Tulum Weary Traveler is known for a full breakfast
from Tankah, a settlement 4km to the north that includes fruit, eggs, bread, coffee and
dating from the Classic period. condiments. There’s Internet, a shuttle to
At the heart of the complex you can ad- the beach, salsa lessons, and a great cen-
mire Tulum’s tallest building, a watchtower tral courtyard with hammocks and picnic
appropriately named El Castillo (The Castle) benches. It even has its own bar. Chilly,
by the Spaniards. Note the Descending God pull-style showers and a lack of any shelv-
in the middle of its façade, and the Toltec- ing for toiletries were the only downsides.
style ‘Kukulcanes’ (plumed serpents) at the Rancho Tranquilo (%871-2784; www.ranchotran
corners, echoing those at Chichén Itzá. To quilo.com.mx; Av Tulum s/n; dm US$12, r from US$25-48)
the Castillo’s north is the small, lopsided Another nice option for those looking for
Templo del Dios Descendente, named for the hostel-type lodging, Rancho Tranquilo of-
relief figure above the door. fers a mix of cabanas, dorms and rooms in a
Walking west toward the exit will take low-key, desert-landscaped garden. There’s
you to the two-story Templo de las Pinturas, a covered common area and free breakfast.
constructed in several stages around AD It gets some noise from a nearby club, but
1400–1450. Its decoration was among the it’s still a great option, especially if Weary
most elaborate at Tulum and included relief Traveler is full. The only downside for
masks and colored murals on an inner wall. those without wheels is that it’s 300m fur-
The murals have been partially restored but ther southward on Tulum Ave, and pretty
are nearly impossible to make out. This dark late at night.
monument might have been the last built Kin-Ha Suites (%/fax 871-2321; www.hotelkinha
by the Maya before the Spanish conquest .com; Orión btwn Calles Sol & Venus; d with fan/air-con
and, with its columns, carvings and two- US$35/40; a) About seven blocks northeast
story construction, it’s probably the most of the bus terminal. Italian-run, it has pleas-
interesting structure at the site. ant rooms surrounding a small courtyard
Have a last look over the whole ruins garden, each with a hammock out front.
before heading out the exit (which was until Hotel El Crucero (% 871-2610; www.el-crucero
very recently the entrance; INAH seems to .com; Crucero Ruinas; r for 4 persons US$85, d/tw with
delight in changing these things around fan US$30/40; tw with air-con US$45; ai) You’ll
from time to time). feel welcome and well-taken-care-of at this
friendly hotel. Dorm rooms have bath-
Sleeping rooms and lockers, while air-con rooms
The biggest choice, aside from budget, is are done up in themes, such as the Mexi-
whether to stay in the town center or out can Mural, Jungle Room and the Lizard
along the beach. Both have their advantages: Lounge. The hotel has a garden area plus
most of the daytime action is at the beach a bar and restaurant, and Internet access.
or the ruins, while at night people tend to You can rent bicycles and store bags as well.
hit the restaurants and bars in town. Few It’s a 10-minute walk to the ruins, and 15
things beat waking up and watching the sun to the beach. The hotel can arrange low-
rise over the beach, but there’s something to impact bicycle tours to cenotes. Local artist
be said for a short walk home after a night Enrique Diaz has a gallery here (see p126).
out rather than a long taxi ride back to the L’Hotelito (% 871-2061; [email protected];
beach area. Hotels in town and at Crucero Av Tulum; d/tr/q with air-con low season US$30/35/40,
Ruinas are easier to reach and generally high season US$60/70/75; a) A decent Italian-
more secure than the seaside lodgings. run place done in bright colors with tile-
There are no vans to the beach. floored rooms. It’s on the west side of the
124 R I V I E R A MAYA • • Tu l u m Book accommodations online
w w at
w .www.lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
highway three blocks north of the bus ter- The cheapest way to sleep in cabanas is
minal. The restaurant serves homemade to have your own hammock and mosquito
pastas, often preceded by tantalizing aro- net; if you don’t, several of the inexpensive
mas. Rooms with fan and no air-con cost places rent them for about US$3 a night.
US$5 less. In the cheapest places you’ll have to supply
Hotel Villa Tulum (%984-871-2418; www.hotel your own towel and soap, and water, hot
villatulum.com; Av Cobá Sur s/n; r low/high season water, and even electricity may be erratic.
US$65/120) A beautiful pool and a conven- Bedbugs (see p161), sand fleas and mos-
ient middle location (you can walk to either quitoes are all a possibility. Bring repellent.
the town or the beach – though it’s a hike) Nights can be darned cold if there’s a breeze
make this a nice choice. It has a senora and blowing. Also see the tips for Tulum’s caba-
simple quads. Very quiet. nas (below).
The following places are ordered north
ZONA HOTELERA to south; not all establishments are listed.
Tulum’s Zona Hotelera is a long string Again, watch out for the ‘deals’ you’ll be
of cabanas and hotels stretching from the offered as you walk towards your intended
southernmost part of the Tulum Ruin ac- destination.
cess road all the way to the Sian Ka’an The last four listings are all south of where
Biosphere Reserve. Quality and price are the road from town (and Cobá) meets the
so varied here that it’s best to look before Tulum to Punta Allen road, forming a T-
you decide. If you’re going for a place intersection (referred to hereafter as ‘the T’).
with shared bathrooms, check them out: Cabañas El Mirador (cabana with hammock US$10)
one place had graffiti (on the flush lever The closest place to the ruins. It has 28
of the only working toilet) that said: ‘Push simple cabanas, all a long walk from the
here to flood the floor.’ Accommodations shared bathrooms – which needed a little
range from rustic cabanas with sand floors TLC at last pass. The beach is wide here,
to pricey bungalows with pricier restau- and a decent restaurant with great views
rants. Some places have no electricity, or sits back and above the cabanas.
shut their generators off at 9pm or 10pm; Zazil-kin (%984-807-6176; s/d/tr cabana without
many have no phone. For some people this bathroom US$26/32/38; d US$84-120) About a 10-
might be a problem, but for most it is part minute walk from the ruins, this is a popu-
of the charm. lar place. It has a dive center, a basketball
Q U I N TA N A R O O
court, a restaurant-bar-disco and a nice excellent views. La Piedra also has a pleas-
stretch of beach. All structures are very tidy ing palapa-style restaurant-bar, and shares a
and nicely painted. The cabanas’ poles have small beach with neighboring hotels.
been filled in with concrete, which makes Posada Margherita (% 984-100-3780; www
them more secure (bring your own lock) .posadamargherita.com; Km 4.5; d low/high season US$120/
but hinders ventilation. Be warned that 180) Unlike many so-called ‘eco-tels’ every-
the disco plays music at very high volumes thing here is totally solar or wind-powered –
sometimes until 1am or 2am, and there’s a even the kitchen, which makes amazing
charge for the use of electricity (such as for food using mainly organic ingredients.
charging cell phones). All rooms have tiled floors, very good bug
El Paraíso (%984-845-7689; r with fan low/high screening, 24-hour lights and a terrace or
season US$70/100) Has 10 rooms in a one-story balcony with hammock. The beach here is
hotel-style block, each with two good beds, wide and lovely. Overlooking it is the fine
private hot-water bathroom, fine cross- restaurant (see p126). The hotel also has
ventilation and 24-hour electricity. The something virtually unheard of in the Yu-
restaurant is very presentable, with decent catán: wheelchair access. The four ground-
prices, and the level beach, with its palm floor rooms have ramps, wide doorways
trees, palapa parasols, swing-chaired bar and wide bathrooms with grab rails; the
and soft white sand, is among the nicest restaurant and other public areas have
you’ll find on the Riviera Maya. ramps or paths.
La Vita è Bella (% 871-3501; www.lavitaebella Cabañas La Zebra (www.zebratulum.net; cabanas
hotel.com; bungalows low/high season US$120/180, s/d US$25-40) This place is 8.5km south of the
without bathroom US$35) A few hundred me- T, the last 2km or so of which is a bit
ters south of El Paraíso, it offers lovely bumpy. Wilma killed the hot water here,
bungalows with tiled floors, big comfy but perhaps that will be repaired soon. The
beds, well-screened sliding doors, good units have bathrooms, fans, 24-hour elec-
bathrooms with colorful basins and wide tricity, one single and one double bed, and
verandas with hammocks. All overlook a ocean views. The property is more forested
narrow but nice beach with beach umbrel- than many others listed here, and has a
las and chairs. It’s Italian-run (surprise!), restaurant-bar. Prices may vary up to $20
so the restaurant serves delicious hand- depending on the season.
made pastas and thin-crust pizza from its
wood-fired oven. Kiteboarding lessons are Eating
also offered. TULUM PUEBLO
Cabañas La Conchita (fax 871 2092 www.different The places listed here are decent, but many
world.com; s & d low/high season US$110/160, tr & q of Tulum’s restaurants are disappointing,
US$140/200) About 2km south of the T across catering to tourists who don’t know good
from some souvenir shops, it has eight Tex-Mex. Service can be frustratingly slow,
units: three freestanding and five in two- especially at the places that add a hefty tip
story structures. They’re well built and all automatically to the bill. Escape by leaving
have safes, 24-hour hot water and electricity Av Tulum and finding nice, quiet, friendly
from 6pm to 10pm (candles after 10pm); cheap eats on the side streets. Consider get-
most have cool concrete walls, standard ting fresh produce from the markets.
windows with some degree of sea view and All of the following places are on Avenida
lockable doors (good security). The beach Tulum (Hwy 307).
and landscaping here are lovely. Rates in- Gaudi Café (Cnr Av Tulum & Jupiter; mains US$2-6;
clude a big breakfast. When sending a fax h7am-10pm) Just south of the bus station
to Cabañas La Conchita make sure to mark on the same side of the street, Gaudi Café
it ‘Attn: La Conchita.’ offers great fresh-squeezed juices and good
Piedra Escondida (%984-100-3826; www.piedraes coffee. Spotlessness and relaxing music
condida.com; s low/high season US$125/165, d US$165/195) make it a great way to start the morning.
Offers very good service in its eight large Don Cafeto (breakfast US$3-6, mains US$6-12;
rooms (four upstairs and four at ground h 7am-10pm) Offers good breakfasts and
level). All have bathrooms and balconies or Mexican food (including seafood dishes), as
porches and are nicely decorated; some have well as coffee. Most orders are accompanied
126 R I V I E R A MAYA • • Tu l u m www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Q U I N TA N A R O O
If you’re headed for Valladolid, be sure History
your bus is traveling the short route through Cobá was settled earlier than Chichén Itzá
Chemax, not via Cancún. Colectivos leave or Tulum, and construction reached its
from Avenida Tulum for Playa del Carmen peak between AD 800 and 1100. Archae-
(US$2, 45 minutes), Punta Allen (at 2pm), ologists believe that this city once covered
and colectivos for Felipe Carrillo Puerto 50 sq km and held 40,000 Maya.
(US$4, one hour) leave from just south of Cobá’s architecture is a mystery; its
the hostel. towering pyramids and stelae resemble
the architecture of Tikal, which is several
Getting Around hundred kilometers away, rather than the
Except for the shuttles operated from the much nearer sites of Chichén Itzá and the
youth hostels, there are no colectivos out to northern Yucatán Peninsula.
the beach. You either hitch, ride a taxi, rent Some archaeologists theorize that an alli-
a bike or walk. And it’s a long walk. ance with Tikal was made through marriage
Bicycles can be a good way to get around to facilitate trade between the Guatemalan
and usually cost US$15 a day. and Yucatecan Maya. Stelae appear to depict
Taxi fares are fixed and pretty cheap; female rulers from Tikal holding ceremonial
from either of the two taxi stands in bars and flaunting their power by stand-
Tulum Pueblo (one south of the bus ter- ing on captives. These Tikal royal females,
minal, which has fares posted; the other when married to Cobá’s royalty, may have
four blocks north on the opposite side of brought architects and artisans with them.
the street) to the ruins it’s US$3.50. Fares to Archaeologists are also baffled by the
most cabanas mentioned here are US$3.50 extensive network of sacbeob in this re-
to US$4.50. gion, with Cobá as the hub. The longest
runs nearly 100km from the base of Cobá’s
GRAN CENOTE great pyramid Nohoch Mul to the Maya set-
A little over 3km from Tulum on the road tlement of Yaxuna. In all, some 40 sacbeob
to Cobá is Gran (Grand) Cenote, a worth- passed through Cobá, parts of the huge
while stop on your way between Tulum astronomical ‘time machine’ that was evi-
and the Cobá ruins, especially if it’s a hot dent in every Maya city.
day. You can snorkel (US$5) among small The first excavation was by the Austrian
fish and see underwater formations in the archaeologist Teobert Maler in 1891. There
caverns here if you bring your own gear. A was little subsequent investigation until
cab from downtown Tulum costs US$5 one 1926, when the Carnegie Institute financed
way, or it’s an easy bike ride. the first of two expeditions led by Sir J Eric
S Thompson and Harry Pollock. After their
COBÁ 1930 expedition, not much happened until
Though not as large as some of the more 1973, when the Mexican government began
famous ruins, Cobá is ‘cool’ because you to finance excavation. Archaeologists now
feel like you’re in a Raiders of the Lost Ark estimate that Cobá contains some 6500
flick. It’s set deep in the jungle and many structures, of which just a few have been
of the ruins have yet to be excavated. Walk excavated and restored, though work is
along ancient sacbé pathways (stone-paved ongoing.
avenues; sacbeob is the plural in Maya),
climb up vine-covered mounds, and ascend Orientation & Information
to the top of Nohoch Mul, one of the few The tiny, tranquil village of Cobá, 2.5km
pyramids in Yucatán visitors are allowed to west of the Tulum-Chemax road, has a
climb – it offers a spectacular view of the small, cheap hotel, several small, simple and
surrounding jungle. low-cost restaurants and the upscale Villas
Be careful not to picnic beside the lake, as Arqueológicas Cobá (Club Med) hotel.
it has large crocodiles. If you want to snap a The archaeological site (admission US$3; h8am-
picture of a croc, try looking for them near 5pm) has a parking lot that charges US$1.50
the Club Med in early afternoon. There’s per car.
a crocodile viewing pier. At last pass, one Be prepared to walk several kilometers
large croc had been named Raul. on paths, depending on how much you
128 R I V I E R A MAYA • • C o b á www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
want to see. If you arrive after 11am you’ll ing on the length of the tour. Guides drop
feel a bit like a sheep in a flock. Bring insect their prices inside the gate, so pay admis-
repellent and water; the shop next to the sion first and avoid bargaining out in the
ticket booth sells both at reasonable prices, parking lot. At last pass, the Nohoch Mul
and at the time of research there was a drink pyramid was the only structure the public
stand within the site near the Nohoch Mul was allowed to climb.
pyramid. Avoid the midday heat if possible;
it gets extremely humid here. Most people Sights
spend around two hours at the site. GRUPO COBÁ
A short distance inside, at the Grupo Walk just under 100m along the main path
Cobá, is a concession renting bicycles at from the entrance and turn right to get to
US$2.50 per day. These can only be ridden La Iglesia (The Church), the most promi-
within the site, and are useful if you really nent structure in the Cobá Group. It’s an
want to get around the further reaches; also enormous pyramid; if you were allowed
they’re a great way to catch a breeze and to climb it, you could see the surrounding
cool off. If the site is crowded, however, lakes (which look lovely from above on a
it’s probably best to walk. Pedi-trikes (two clear day) and the Nohoch Mul pyramid.
people and driver US$7.50 per day) are Take the time to explore Grupo Cobá; it
another popular option for those who are has a couple of corbeled-vault passages you
tired or have limited mobility. can walk through. Near its northern edge,
You may want to buy a book on Cobá on the way back to the main path and the
before coming. On-site signage and maps bicycle concession, is a very well-restored
are minimal and cryptic. Guides near the juego de pelota (ball court).
entrance size you up and ask whatever they
think you’re worth, anywhere from US$15 GRUPO MACANXOC
(90 minutes) to more than US$75, depend- About 500m beyond the juego de pelota,
the path forks. Going straight gets you to
COBÁ 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
the Grupo Macanxoc, a group of stelae
that bore reliefs of royal women who are
A To Chemax B thought to have come from Tikal. They are
(29km)
To Nuevo
Lookout Xcan (51km) badly eroded, and it’s a 1km walk, but the
flora along the way is interesting.
8 Pyramid
1
Nohoch Mul
GRUPO DE LAS PINTURAS
To Tulum
5
6 3 4
Estructura X
(42km) You can reach the Grupo de las Pinturas
7
Grupo
de las Ballcourt
(Paintings Group) by heading 200m to-
Laguna
Cobá 2 1 Pinturas
Conjunto de
ward the Grupo Macanxoc and turning
Grupo las Pinturas left. If you’re on a bike, you’ll have to park
Cobá
it here and return to it (this is the case at
Laguna
Macanxoc a few other spots as well). The temple here
Grupo
Laguna Macanxoc bears traces of glyphs and frescoes above
2 Xkanha
Laguna
its door and remnants of richly colored
Zacalpuc plaster inside.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES You approach the temple from the south-
Archaeological Site
Laguna
Sina A Kal Entrance/Tickets...............1 A1 east. Leave by the trail at the northwest (op-
Crocodile Viewing Pier.........2 A1 posite the temple steps) to see two stelae.
SLEEPING The first of these is 20m along, beneath
Hotel y Restaurant El
Bocadito...........................3 A1
a palapa. Here, a regal figure stands over
Hotelia Sac-Bé......................4 A1 two others, one of them kneeling with his
Villas Arqueológicas Cobá....5 A1
hands bound behind him. Sacrificial cap-
3 EATING tives lie beneath the feet of a ruler at the
Restaurant Las Pirámides......6 A1
Restaurants..........................7 A1
base. You’ll need to use your imagination,
as this and most of the other stelae here are
TRANSPORT
Bus Stop...............................8 A1 quite worn. Continue along the path past
another badly weathered stela and a small
Book
w w waccommodations
. l o n e l y p l a n e online
t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • C o b á 129
Q U I N TA N A R O O
temple to rejoin the Nohoch Mul path and Hotel y Restaurant El Bocadito (%984-264-7071;
turn right (or, if you rented a bike, turn r US$12-20) This place has very basic, fan-
around or go left to retrieve it). cooled rooms all with private bathrooms.
Chickens cluck and dogs wander around.
GRUPO NOHOCH MUL The restaurant (mains US$5 to US$15) is
Continuing northeast you will reach an- well run and serves basic food, including an
other ball court (half-restored at last pass), US$8.50 set menu. It will store luggage while
on the right side of the path. Look at the you visit the ruins. El Bocadito also serves as
ground in the center of the court to spot a Cobá’s bus terminal.
carved stone skull (the winner or the loser Villas Arqueológicas Cobá (%/fax 984-206-7000;
of the ball game?) and the carved relief of d/tr/ste US$82/101/137; pas) A Club Med
a jaguar. More weathered stelae lie at the hotel next to the lake. It was built to resem-
north end. After the ball court, the track ble an old hacienda, with red-tiled floors
bends between piles of stones – a ruined and rooms grouped around a large inner
temple – and you reach a junction of sorts. courtyard with an expansive swimming
Turn right (east) and head to the struc- pool. It’s one of three on the Peninsula,
ture called Xaibé. This is a tidy, semicircular all with nearly the exact same plan. The
stepped building, almost fully restored. Its restaurant is surprisingly affordable and
name means ‘the Crossroads,’ as it marks serves good Yucatecan cuisine; the rooms
the juncture of four separate sacbeob. are pretty fair (a little small for the price),
Going north from here takes you past with good air-con. Its Maya ruin (genuine)
Templo 10 and Stela 20. The exquisitely is depressingly surrounded by a golf-course
carved stela – worn, but not nearly so badly and astroturf.
as the others – bears the date AD 730 and a Hotelita Sac-bé (%984-206-7140; s/d with fan
familiar theme: a ruler standing imperiously US$170/250, with air-con US$250/350) Clean and
over two captives. In front of it is a modern friendly, the Sac-bé is on the opposite side
line drawing depicting the original details. of the street from El Bocadito and about
By this time you will have noticed No- 100m closer to the main road heading out
hoch Mul (Big Mound) just to the north. of town. The chickens are a bit noisy in the
Also known as the Great Pyramid, which morning, but it has nice hot showers and
sounds a lot better than Big Mound, No- comfortable, springy beds.
hoch Mul reaches a height of 42m, making Restaurant Las Pirámides (mains US$6) A few
it the second-tallest Maya structure on the doors down from the Club Med, it has
Yucatán Peninsula. Calakmul’s Estructura good lake views and friendly service. Sev-
II, at 45m, is the tallest. Climbing the old eral small restaurants by the sites parking
steps can be scary for some; see the boxed lot serve inexpensive meals.
text, p172, for tips.
Two diving gods are carved over the Getting There & Away
doorway of the temple at the top (built in Most buses serving Cobá swing down al-
the post-Classic period, AD 1100–1450), most to the lake to drop off passengers
similar to the sculptures at Tulum. The before turning around. Buses run six to
view from up top is over many square kilo- eight times daily between Tulum and Cobá
meters of flat scrubby forest, with peeks (US$2.60 to US$2.80); six of these also serve
of lake, and Xaibé as the sole visible Maya Playa del Carmen (US$5.10 to US$5.80, one
structure. Still, it’s inspiring. to 1¾ hours). Buses also run to Valladolid
After descending, walk past Templo 10 (US$2.50, 45 minutes) and Chichén Itzá
and turn right to make a loop back to the (US$5.20, 1½ hours).
ruined-temple junction. In all it’s a 1.4km, Day-trippers from Tulum can reach
half-hour walk back to the site entrance. Cobá by forming a group to split the cost
of a taxi, which costs about US$50 round
Sleeping & Eating trip, including two hours at the site.
There’s no organized campsite, but you can The 31km road from Cobá to Chemax is
try finding a place along the shore of the lake, arrow-straight and in good shape. If you’re
which is inhabited by crocodiles (local chil- driving to Valladolid or Chichén Itzá this
dren can show you a safe swimming spot). is the way to go.
130 SOUTHERN QUINTANA ROO •• Tulum to Punta Allen www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Q U I N TA N A R O O
1987 the UN classified it as a World Herit- The area is known primarily for its
age site – an irreplaceable natural treasure. catch-and-release bonefishing, and for that
Sian Ka’an (Where the Sky Begins) is many people come a long way; tarpon and
home to howler monkeys, anteaters, foxes, snook are very popular sportfish as well.
ocelots, pumas, crocodiles, eagles, raccoons, The guides listed for Sian Ka’an (left), as
tapirs, peccaries, giant land crabs, jaguars well as cooperatives in town (inquire at
and hundreds of bird species, including Galletanes or Vigía Grande), do fishing
chocolateras (roseate spoonbills) and some trips for about US$200, including lunch.
flamingos. There are no hiking trails through There’s also a fishing outfit just north of
the reserve; it’s best explored with a profes- town called Pesca Maya (%998-883-4204; www
sional guide. .pescamaya.com; h5am-10pm), which does daily
Sian Ka’an Ecoturismo (% 984-871-2363; sian saltwater fly-fishing runs and has a restau-
[email protected]; Av Tulum btwn Satélite & rant for guests only.
Géminis, Tulum) runs tours out of Tulum that An hour’s tour of the lagoon, including
include pickup in the Zona Hotelera. They turtles, bird-watching and a quick snorkel,
include a guided walk of the interpretive costs US$40. You’ll be offered trips by one
trail at the Muyil archaeological site south of the three co-ops. Encourage your captain
of Tulum, and a boat trip through Lagunas not to get so close to bird life that it scares it
Muyil, Chunyaxché and Boca Paila via an away. Though very rare, manatee spottings
ancient Maya trade route along a natural are possible.
channel. Or so says the guide; the local You can access the Internet at Puntanet
Maya maintain that their ancestors carved (h10am-9pm Mon-Sat) for US$2 per hour.
it out. On the way you can see abundant
bird life and visit little-known Maya tem- SLEEPING & EATING
ples. The tour ends with beach time and a Tres Marías (d US$25) A locally run set of simple
picnic, followed by a van ride up the coast cabanas in the middle of town.
on the notorious road (the good half). It Posada Sirena (%/fax 984-877-8521; www.casa
costs US$68 per person (US$54.40 per child sirena.com; d US$30-50) Offers fully furnished
aged five to seven years), including food cabanas with kitchens and hot-water show-
and drinks. ers. Every room has a blender.
If you can get to Punta Allen, three locals Hospedaje Cooperativa Las Boyas (% 984-
with training in English, natural history, 878-017; r with kitchenettes US$70) There are two
interpretation and birding conduct bird- rooms here that are simple but well located.
watching, snorkeling and nature tours, They’re on the north corner near the ‘Mini-
mostly by boat, for about US$110 for five Super Caamal.’ Look for the mermaid and
to six people: Baltazar Madera (%984-871-2001, inquire inside.
in Tulum 984-879-8234), Marcos Nery (reachable through Vigía Grande and Galletanes are among
the local phone exchange: %984-871-2424) and Chary several of the town’s dining choices, both
Salazar (enquire in town at her eponymous close to the water and both owned by co-
restaurant). The latter two are experts on ops. They serve Mexican dishes and sea-
endemic and migratory bird species, and food, naturally including lobster. Neither
Chary also does walking tours when she’s has a phone and opening hours vary based
available. on whether any customers are there. If they
look closed, wait a bit, then ask around.
Punta Allen Chances are someone will be happy to
The town of Javier Rojo Gómez is more scamper over and fire up the grill.
commonly called by the name of the point
2km south. Nearly destroyed by Hurricane GETTING THERE & AWAY
Gilbert in 1988 but spared by Wilma, Punta The best way to reach Punta Allen by public
Allen has a population of fewer than 400, transport is by colectivo out of Tulum: one
many of whom fish for lobster, and sports leaves daily from Tulum center at 2pm and
a laid-back ambience reminiscent of the arrives about three hours later. Driving in a
Belizean cayes. There’s also a healthy reef rental car is another option, but prepare for
400m from shore that offers snorkelers and 5km/h to 10km/h speeds and more than a
divers wonderful sights. few transmission-grinding bumps.
132 S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • Fe l i p e C a r r i l l o Pu e r t o www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
0 200 m
FELIPE CARRILLO PUERTO 0 0.1 miles
A B C D
To Valladolid To Tulum (95km);
To Ticul (200km); (157km) Cancún (230km)
Mérida (310km)
Call
e 73
MEX MEX
1 184 295
Calle 11
Santuario
71
de la Cruz
Parlante
60
10
Calle
62
Calle
Calle
69
66
MEX
3
Calle
307
68
64
INFORMATION 7
Calle
Calle
Balam Nah...............................1 C3 5
HSBC (ATM & Currency 2
Calle 72
2 Exchange)............................2 D2 12
ὈὈ
Post Office...............................3 C2 Calle
67
Plaza Iglesia
(Av Juárez
Calle 70
EATING 1 8
Lonchería 25 hores..................7 D2
Parrilla Galerías........................8 C3
3
Park
TRANSPORT Calle 63 6
Bus Terminal............................9 C3
Colectivos for Playón.............10 D1
Colectivos for Tulum..............11 D1 To Chetumal
Gas Station............................12 D2 (155km)
www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • Fe l i p e C a r r i l l o Pu e r t o 133
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Carrillo Puerto today remains a center of deal, with very clean bathrooms and tiled
Maya pride. The talking cross, hidden away floors, while the fan rooms have good beds
in the jungle for many years following the and showers, but are dark, windowless and
Mexican takeover, has been returned to its over-perfumed.
shrine, and Maya from around the region El Faisán y El Venado (%834-0702; cnr Av Be-
still come to visit it, especially on May 3, nito Juárez & Calle 69; d US$26; a) Has colorful
the day of the Holy Cross. orange-and-yellow rooms with firm mat-
tresses, TV and ceiling fans (as always,
Information check the air-con before taking a room).
Balam Nah (Calle 65; h8am-1am) On the plaza, it Rooms vary a fair bit from the quite nice
offers slow, cheap Internet connections in a smoke-free, to pretty shabby, so ask to see yours first.
air-con environment. There’s a bathroom in back. With Its adjacent restaurant has good, reasonably
toilet paper! priced food; try the enormous shrimp cevi-
HSBC bank (cnr Calles 70 & 69) With ATM and money che (US$8.60) or the good poc chuc (grilled
exchange; lies two blocks east of the post office. pork strips, US$7.70).
Post office (Calle 69; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Loncheria 25 Horas (Calle 69, across from the gas
station; items US$2; h24hr) Dirt cheap without
Sights being dirty, this casual eatery sports plastic
The Santuario de la Cruz Parlante (Sanctuary of chairs and the fumes of passing trucks, but
the Talking Cross) is five blocks west of the had a giant selection of eggs, sandwiches,
gas station on Hwy 307. There’s no sign at tacos and smoothies.
the site, but you can’t miss the stone wall Parrilla Galerías (% 834-0313; Calle 65; mains
with a gate. Some of the town’s residents do US$3.50-8) On the plaza, it has the look of
not like strangers in the sanctuary, and may a more upscale spot, but serves beer for
try to take your camera if they see you using US$1.50 and tacos for US$0.60. The house
it here. The building, a thatch roof set over specialty is a parrilla (mixed grill) with lots
walls, is next to a small cenote and set on a of accompaniments (US$17 for three peo-
rock slope. A sign on the door says no one ple). Accepts credit cards.
may enter wearing a hat or shoes.
More accessible is the Centro Cultural Chan Getting There & Away
Santa Cruz (admission free; h8am-9:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am- Most buses serving Carrillo Puerto are de
1pm & 6-8pm Sat & Sun), on the plaza, which has art paso (they don’t originate there). The table
exhibitions, workshops, and the occasional above shows some of the routes.
exhibit on the War of the Castes. Be sure to Colectivos leave for Playa del Carmen
check the mural outside, expressing the con- (US$11, two hours) and Tulum (US$5.20,
viction that the war is not lost, and displaying one hour) from Hwy 307 just south of
accomplishments of Maya culture. Calle 73.
Check your fuel before heading to or leav-
Sleeping & Eating ing Carrillo Puerto. There are few, if any,
Hotel Esquivel (%834-0344; hotelesquivelfcp@todito gas stations between it and Valladolid (Hwy
.com; Calle 65 No 746; d with fan/air-con US$20/35; a) 295), Chetumal (Hwy 307), Tulum (Hwy
Around the corner from the plaza and bus 307) or José María Morelos (Hwy 184). The
terminal. The air-con rooms are a good one in Mahahual is a 50km detour.
MAHAHUAL & THE COSTA MAYA and to stretches of the barrier reef a few
Expect big changes to happen to these hundred meters from shore, which has
sleepy coastal communities over the next some excellent spots as well. It takes
five years. Mahahual has been picked as a maximum of eight passengers to the
the next Cancún or Playa and sees so many bank, 10 to local spots. Blue Ha also offers
cruise-ship visitors that most locals simply PADI courses, and the operator, Douglas
don’t understand that sometimes people Campbell-Smith, speaks English, Spanish
arrive by car or bus. A four-lane highway and German.
slashes in a straight line through miles of You can access the web or make US$0.40
spectacular mangrove from Route 307 to the per minute calls to the USA or Canada at
shore, where the jade-green bands of ocean, @EasyCall (Internet per hr US$2; h9am-10pm).
barrier reefs and palm-shaded white-sand
beaches seem straight out of Paradise. Sleeping & Eating
Loud hawkers, hiked-up prices and All but Kailuum Cita are south of town.
cruise-ship passengers ground you in the Addresses are given as distances from the
grim reality that it actually isn’t Paradise, military checkpoint at the north entrance
though Xcalak still retains a lot of the quiet to town.
charm that the area is known for and is Coco Ha (%834-5878; Km 1.8; s/d without bathroom
worth the extra drive. Mahahual is still nice US$15/18) Close to the south entrance, it rents
too, but the chaotic Zona Turista and a new six cabanas. They’re quite basic, but have
pier (still in the works) make it less peace- cement floors and are right on the beach. A
ful. Drivers should be aware that when few coconut trees provide shade, and it has
ships arrive the entire zone is closed for a great view of the beach; however, expect
pedestrians only and you’ll need to take this to change as the pier is built.
circuitous back streets around to continue Las Cabanas del Doctor (%983-832-2102; Km 2;
to travel south. cabanas with/without bathroom US$35/25) Across the
More significantly, Mahahual offers the street from the beach, about 100m south
closest access to Banco Chinchorro, the larg- of Coco Ha. It offers several fairly simple
est coral atoll in the Northern Hemisphere. dwellings. Prices rise by about US$10 more
Some 45km long and up to 14km wide, in December and Easter week.
Chinchorro’s western edge lies about 30km Kailuum Cita (%in USA 1-303-674-9615 or 1-800-
off the coast, and dozens of ships have fallen 538-6802; www.kailuum.com; tents under palapas low/
victim to its barely submerged ring of coral. high season from US$100/120; h closed Sep-Oct) A
The atoll and its surrounding waters were unique, quiet refuge and the only place lo-
made a biosphere reserve (the Reserva de cated north of town, Kailuum Cita has no
la Biósfera Banco Chinchorro) to protect electricity and is a true eco-tel, with nice
them from depredation. But the reserve bathrooms, oil-lanterns with pulleys, and
lacks the personnel and equipment needed excellent full breakfasts included. No chil-
to patrol such a large area, and many abuses dren aged under 14 makes this an especially
go undetected. quiet oasis for those looking to get away
There is a ban on wreck dives as many from it all.
are too shallow (or too looted) for good Casa del Mar (Km 2; h7:30am-afternoon) Next
diving. But there are plenty of other things door to the Doctor, this friendly German-
to see around the bank: coral walls and can- run café serves coffee (including great cap-
yons, rays, turtles, giant sponges, grouper, puccino), yummy apple cakes, whole-wheat
tangs, eels and, in some spots, reef, tiger bread and other delights. The owners plan
and hammerhead sharks. There’s good to begin serving breakfasts. You can rent
snorkeling as well, including 40 Cannons, a bikes here.
wooden ship in 5m to 6m of water. Looters Doña Marí (mains US$3-5) Right in town, be-
have taken all but about 25 of the cannons, hind the big yellow Hotel Mahahual. It’s
and it can only be visited in ideal condi- very simple and clean, and serves tasty fish
tions, but the prohibition on wrecks doesn’t fillets prepared in various styles, accompa-
apply to snorkelers. nied by beans and tortillas.
Blue Ha Diving Center (www.bluehadiving.com; Restaurante Mahahual (%983-834-5849; mains
Hwy 307 Km 2.7) runs trips to Chinchorro US$5; h7am-8pm) Reasonably priced food at
Book
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Q U I N TA N A R O O
the north end of the pedestrian malecón ons, egrets and other waterfowl, you can
(waterfront boulevard). Refresh with a co- see agouti, jabiru (storks), iguanas, javelinas
lossal limonada (lime with soda water) or (peccaries), parakeets, kingfishers, alligators
have a meal. The owner clearly likes turtles. and more. Unfortunately, the mangrove
Service is on Mexican time. also breeds mosquitoes and some vicious
jejenes (sand flies).
Getting There & Around With luck, Xcalak’s distance from the
Mahahual is 68km south of Felipe Carrillo center of the planned boom will spare it
Puerto, 5km south of Limones and 46km from severe impact. So far it shows no signs
north of Bacalar. A new ADO bus terminal of getting a bank or a gas station, so stock
(a stop, really, operating between 5:30am up before you come.
and 6pm daily) has made getting here easier Aventuras Xcalak to Chinchorro Dive Center
than ever, though the buses are infrequent. (% 983-831-0461; www.xtcdivecenter.com), about
They depart here for Chetumál (US$7, 2½ 300m north of town on the coast road,
hours, 6am, 12:30pm and 6pm) and Can- offers dive and snorkel trips (US$94) to
cún (US$17, five hours, 8:30am and 6pm), the wondrous barrier reef just offshore,
with an additional departure at 3pm on and to Banco Chinchorro (three-tank dive
Sundays and Mondays. A Mérida service is US$175, not including rental gear). It also
scheduled to begin but was not running at rents diving equipment and offers PADI
the time of research. open-water certificate for US$385, NAUI
If you’re driving, expect to be stopped at and SDI instruction, as well as fishing and
least once at a military checkpoint; they’re birding tours.
only searching for contraband and often
wave tourists through. There’s a Pemex gas Sleeping
station if you need to fill your tank. The following places are among a handful
Bicycles work well for getting around on the old coastal road leading north from
here. Casa del Mar (see opposite) rents bi- town (mostly run by Americans or Cana-
cycles for US$5 a day. dians). All have purified drinking water,
ceiling fans, 24-hour electricity (from solar
XCALAK or wind with generator backup), bikes and/
Plopped in the middle of nowhere, the or sea kayaks for guest use, and private
rickety wooden houses, beached fishing hot-water bathrooms. The first three have
launches and lazy gliding pelicans make docks to swim off, and most arrange fishing
this tiny town a perfect escape. Blessed by excursions.
virtue of its remoteness and the barrier reef High season here is mid-December to
(preventing nearby cruise ships from dock- mid-April (with very slight variations).
ing), Xcalak may yet escape the develop- Most places don’t accept credit cards with-
ment boom that’s dooming its neighbor, out prior arrangements, and are best con-
Mahahual. tacted through their websites or via email.
Come here to walk in dusty streets Addresses here are expressed in kilometers
and sip frozen drinks while frigates soar from town.
above translucent-green lagoons. Explore Villas La Guacamaya (% /fax 983-839-8608;
a mangrove swamp by kayak, dive Banco [email protected]; Km 10; d low/high season
Chinchorro’s amazing barrier reef, or just US$60/100; i) You’ll be greeted by an exu-
doze in a hammock and soak in some sun. berant parrot at this quiet place 10km north
Perhaps best of all, you won’t hear a single of Xcalak. It has two rooms that face the
offer for hamacas or Cuban cigars. And, sea and share use of a fully equipped gour-
though tiny, Xcalak boasts a few nice res- met kitchen. Each room has a double and
taurants and an easygoing mix of foreigners a single bed. There’s also a separate apart-
and local fishermen. ment with kitchen set back from the beach,
The mangrove stretching inland from and a fourth, smallish room with a double
the coastal road hides some large lagoons bed and a lovely bathroom. It also offers
and forms tunnels that invite the kayaker free (limited) Internet access, and not only
to explore them. It and the drier forest teem bikes and kayaks for guest use but snorkel
with wildlife and, as well as the usual her- gear as well.
136 S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • L a g u n a B a c a l a r Book accommodations online
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Q U I N TA N A R O O
Hotel Tierra Maya (%983-836-6171, in USA 800- Restaurant Bar Xcalak Caribe (mains US$5-8;
480-4505; www.tierramaya.net; Km 2; d small/large low sea- hnoon-late) An American-run place about
son US$67/78, high season US$84/95; a) A modern two blocks south of the plaza and just
beachfront hotel featuring six lovely rooms across the street from the beach. Diners
(three quite large), each tastefully appointed (and drinkers) sit on the 2nd floor under
and with many architectural details. Each a palapa to eat burgers, fries, fish fingers
of the rooms has mahogany furniture and and fillets. Closes anywhere between 8pm
a balcony facing the sea – the bigger rooms and midnight.
even have small refrigerators. Single rates
are about US$5 less, and air-con (available Getting There & Around
in some rooms) is US$15 extra per night. Cabs from Limones cost about US$50
Mains at the pleasant restaurant (dinner (including to the northern hotels). Buses
only) are around US$16. Rates include a cost US$3, the same as to Mahahual even
light buffet breakfast. though they travel an hour longer.
Casa Carolina (%983-839-1958; www.casacarolina Driving from Limones, turn right
.net; Km 2.5; d low/high season US$84/95) A bright, (south) after 55km and follow the signs to
cheery yellow, the Casa has four guestrooms Xcalak (another 60km). Keep an eye out
with large, hammock-equipped balconies for the diverse wildlife that frequents the
facing the sea. Each room has a kitchen forest and mangrove; a lot of it runs out
with fridge, and the bathrooms try to outdo into the road.
one another with their beautiful Talavera A taxi sporadically works the town,
tile. All levels of scuba instruction (NAUI) serving the northern hotels for US$10 and
are offered here, as well as recreational dives available for hire for excursions to further
at the barrier reef. Rates include continental destinations.
breakfast.
Sonrisa (%983-839-4663; www.playasonrisa.com; LAGUNA BACALAR
Km 7; cabanas from US$95) Sonrisa offers ‘cloth- A clear, turquoise freshwater lake more than
ing optional’ European-style sunbathing 60km long and with a bottom of gleaming
for couples – and couples only. Come here white sand, Laguna Bacalar comes as a sur-
to lose the tan lines in a low-key, casual prise in this region of tortured limestone
setting that includes simple cabanas, a and scrubby jungle. It offers opportunities
bar-restaurant and friendly owners. Note for camping, swimming, kayaking, bird-
that the cancellation penalties are steep, so watching and lazing. A growing number of
read the website carefully and make sure foreigners (chiefly Americans and Canadi-
of your plans. Rates include a continental ans) have been buying up lakeside lots.
breakfast. The small, sleepy town of Bacalar lies
east of the highway, 125km south of Felipe
Eating Carrillo Puerto and 39km north and east
Food in Xcalak tends to be tourist-grade of Chetumal. It’s the only settlement of any
seafood or Mexican, though the Leaky Pal- size on the lake, and is noted mostly for
apa is a delectable exception. its old Spanish fortress and popular bal-
Leaky Palapa (h5-10pm Fri-Mon) Chef and neario (swimming facility). There’s not a
owner, Marla and Linda, have turned an lot else going on, but that’s why people
old standby into a new sensation, serving like it here. Rumor has it that Chepes, ‘the
wonderful meals such as lobster in caramel taco stand mayor,’ still runs a stand even
ginger sauce. Opinion was unanimous that while serving in office, but this has not
this was the best place to go to treat your been confirmed.
tastebuds. The fortress was built above the lagoon
Lonchería Silvia’s (mains US$3.50-9; h9am-10pm) to protect citizens from raids by pirates and
About three blocks south of the plaza and a the indigenous people. It served as an im-
block in from the coast, Silvia serves mostly portant outpost for the Spanish in the War
fish fillets and ceviche, and keeps pretty of the Castes. In 1859 it was seized by Maya
regular hours. The long menu doesn’t mean rebels, who held the fort until Quintana Roo
that everything is available. You’ll likely end was finally conquered by Mexican troops in
up having the fish. 1901. Today, with formidable cannons still
www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • A r o u n d B a c a l a r 137
Q U I N TA N A R O O
on its ramparts, the fortress remains an im- Hostel Ximba Li (%983-834-2516; Av 3 at Calle 30;
posing sight. It houses a museum exhibiting dm US$7) This simple new hostel is located a
colonial armaments and uniforms from the couple of blocks from the lake and a short
17th and 18th centuries, but at the time of walk to town. Breakfast included.
research it had not opened yet following Just shy of the south end of the costera
a prolonged remodeling job, in spite of a is Cenote Azul, a 90m-deep natural pool on
ribbon-cutting ceremony. the southwest shore of the lake. It’s 200m
The balneario (admission US$0.50; h10am-7pm) east of Hwy 307, so many buses will drop
lies a few hundred meters north along the you nearby. Of the few places to eat right in
costera (waterfront avenue) below the fort. town, Orizaba’s at the northwest corner of
There are some small restaurants along the the plaza is a good choice. Serving consist-
avenue and near the balneario, which is ently good Yucatecan meals, the lake view
very busy on weekends. restaurant at quaintly kitsch Hotel Laguna is
popular. The restaurant at Balneario Ejidal
La Costera South serves fresh ceviche and good grilled fish.
The costera (also known as Calle 1) winds
south several kilometers along the lakeshore Getting There & Away
from Bacalar town to Hwy 307 at Cenote Southbound 2nd-class buses go through
Azul. All the following places to stay and Bacalar town on Calle 7, passing a block
eat are on it, listed from north to south. uphill from the central square (el parque),
Los Coquitos (sites per person US$4) A nice camp- which is just above the fort and has a taxi
ing area on the lakeshore, run by a family stand. Northbound 2nd-class buses run
who live in a shack on the premises. You along Calle 5, a block downhill from Calle
can camp in the dense shade of the palm 7. Most 1st-class buses don’t enter town,
trees, enjoy the view of the lake from the but many will drop you along Hwy 307 at
palapas and swim from the grassy banks. the turnoffs to Hotel Laguna and Cenote
Water and soft drinks are sometimes for Azul; check before you buy your ticket.
sale. Minibuses from Chetumal to the town of
Casita Carolina (%/fax 983-834-2334; www.casita Bacalar (US$1.30, 45 minutes, 39km) de-
carolina.com; d US$25-45; palapa US$40) This is a part from the terminal on Primo de Verdad
delightful place about 1½ blocks south of at Hidalgo about once an hour from 5am
the fort. It has a large lawn leading down to 9pm.
to the lake, five fan rooms and a deluxe If you’re driving from the north and
palapa that sleeps up to four. Guests can want to reach the town and fort, take the
explore the lake in the Casita’s kayaks. It’s first Bacalar exit and continue several
best reached by taking a bus into Bacalar blocks before turning left (east) down the
and walking or catching a taxi. hill. From Chetumal, head west to catch
Hotel Laguna (%983-834-2206; fax 983-834-2205; Hwy 307 north; after 25km on the highway
d US$42; s) This clean, cool, turquoise place you’ll reach the signed right turn for Cenote
is hospitable. It boasts a small swimming Azul and the costera.
pool, a restaurant, a bar and excellent views
of the lake, directly below the hotel. Some AROUND BACALAR
rooms are showing their age. It’s 2km south A few kilometers north of Bacalar town,
of Bacalar town along the costera and only right next to the highway, is Puerto del Cielo
150m east of Hwy 307, so if you’re traveling Hotel y Restaurante (%/fax 983-837-0413; r US$30;
by bus on the highway you can ask the as), which offers 12 air-con rooms with
driver to stop at the turnoff. hot-water bathrooms and TV. A swimming
Amigos B&B Laguna Bacalar (%987-872-3868; pool on the grounds overlooks Laguna Ba-
www.bacalar.net; d US$45-55;a) Brought to you calar. The restaurant specializes in chicken
by the same hospitable family who runs and fish dishes.
Amigos B&B in Cozumel, this ideally lo- Further north, and 3.2km off the high-
cated lakefront property (about 500m south way, is Federico’s Laguna Azul (fax 983-834-2035;
of the fort) has three spacious guest rooms www.laguna-azul.de; sites per person US$3.50, screened
and a comfy shared common area. Break- palapa US$15, cabana US$25), a serene, secluded
fast included. spot located on the north end of Laguna
138 S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • C h e t u m a l www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Q U I N TA N A R O O
0 500 m
CHETUMAL 0 0.3 mile
A B C D
INFORMATION HSBC.......................................9 B4 SLEEPING
@Mercurio...............................1 B3 Inegi......................................10 A5 Holiday Inn Chetumal Puerta
Banamex..................................2 B5 Post Office.............................11 B3 Maya.................................16 B2
1 Banorte....................................3 B3 Telmex...................................12 B3 Hotel Caribe Princess..............17 B4
Circunvalación
BBV Bancomer.........................4 A4 Web Center...........................13 B3 Hotel Guadalupe....................18 A4
Cambalache (Casa de Cambio)..5 B4 Hotel Los Cocos.....................19 B3
City Tourist Office................... 6 C5 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hotel Mariá Dolores...............20 B4
Carranza Cruz Roja.................................7 A3 Museo de la Ciudad...............14 B3 Hotel Ucum............................21 B2
Hospital Morelos......................8 A3 Museo de la Cultura Maya.....15 B2 Instituto Quintanarroense
de la Juventud....................22 D4
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2 Espresso Café.........................28 C5
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EuroEBuffet............................. 29 B4
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Av Mahatma
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Pollo 31 B4
To Belizean 32
Consulate (1km) Restaurant Pantoja.................
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Mercado Ignacio M
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Manuel Altamirano 16 Sergio's
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Av Independ
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Gas Station............................ 37 A5
3 12 Ca
Lázaro Cárdena Minibus Terminal...................38 C2
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1
35
Plutarco Elías
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11
27
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Av Álvaro Obreg
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Av Reform
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33 Heroica Escu
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29
9
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Blvd Bahía 6
5 Clock
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Bahía Chetumal
Tourist information kiosk (h9am-8pm) In the bus coes and a cinemuseo giving free film show-
terminal, this is usually staffed by an English-speaker and ings. In the middle of the courtyard is a Maya
offers a map of the city and information on hotels. na (thatched hut) with implements of daily
Maya life on display: gourds, grinders and a
Dangers & Annoyances metate. Just walk past the ticket window.
Chetumal is generally safe, but be cautious Look for a bronze bust in the middle of
just the same, especially if walking alone Avenida Héroes, just east of the museum’s
late at night. Crime does happen, but it is entrance. It depicts Jacinto Pat, one of the
rarely aimed at tourists. Maya leaders who planned the insurrection
If you are heading south to Belize be sure that became the War of the Castes.
to read the boxed text, p149, as an occa-
sional Belizean official may try to extract MUSEO DE LA CIUDAD
exorbitant bribes (up to US$200) for ‘re- The local history museum (Héroes de Chapultepec
solving’ trumped-up visa problems. btwn Avs Héroes & Benito Juárez; admission US$1; h9am-
Well-dressed swindlers sometimes pre- 7pm Mon-Sat) is small but neatly done, dis-
tend to be travelers in trouble. They’ll start playing historic photos, military artifacts
with what seems like an innocent request and old-time household items (even some
for assistance finding luggage or a separated vintage telephones and a TV). All labels are
relative. There may be creative flourishes, in Spanish but, even if you don’t read the
such as the man is a preacher or the rela- language, it’s worth visiting for 15 minutes
tive is desperate for insulin medication or (if of entertainment.
you’re wearing a Hawaiian shirt) that they’ve
just come from Hawaii. If you listen long Sleeping
enough he will ask for money for a bus ticket Instituto Quintanarroense de la Juventud (%832-
to somewhere expensive, like Acapulco. 0525; Heroica Escuela Naval btwn Calzada Veracruz & Av
Cozumel; sites US$3, dm US$5) Five bucks a night is
Sights hard to beat, and extremely kind Spanish-
MUSEO DE LA CULTURA MAYA speaking staff will assist with information
This museum (%832-6838; Av Héroes btwn Colón & or answer questions. Downsides include
Av Gandhi; admission US$5; h7am-9pm) is the city’s showers that tease with a minute of warmth
claim to cultural fame – a bold showpiece before turning icy, many toilets flood or
beautifully conceived and executed. don’t flush, and most stalls don’t have
It is organized into three levels, mirroring doors. The beds are OK, the rooms are a bit
Maya cosmology. The main floor represents stuffy, and there are single-sex and couples
this world, the upper floor the heavens, and rooms. Seasoned travelers will have stayed
the lower floor Xibalbá, the underworld. The in much, much worse; anyone expecting
various exhibits (labeled in Spanish and Eng- the luxury of hostels north in Tulum or
lish) cover all of the Mayab (lands of the Valladolid will be sorely disappointed.
Maya), not just Quintana Roo or Mexico, and Hotel María Dolores (% 832-0508; Av Álvaro
seek to explain the Maya way of life, thought Obregón 206; s US$22, d without/with air-con US$24/27)
and belief. Scale models show the great Maya West of Avenida Héroes, this lime-sorbet
buildings as they may have appeared, includ- colored hotel offers reasonable prices. The
ing a temple complex set below plexiglass beds are a bit saggy, but some of the fan-
you can walk over. Though artifacts are in cooled rooms are a good size and there’s
short supply there are replicas of stelae and off-street parking and free bottled water.
a burial chamber from Copán, Honduras, re- Hotel Ucum (%832-0711, 832-6186; Av Mahatma
productions of the murals found in Room 1 Gandhi 167; d with fan/air-con US$20/$35; as )
at Bonampak and much more. Ingenious Despite the unfortunate name (a town in
mechanical and computer displays graphi- Campeche) this is a fine, budget motel-like
cally illustrate the Maya’s complex calendri- place with many rooms around a central
cal, numerical and writing systems. courtyard/parking lot. It has a (slightly
The museum’s courtyard, which you can milky) swimming pool and a restaurant
enter for free, has salons for temporary serving good, inexpensive food.
exhibits of modern artists (such as Rufino
Tamayo), paintings reproducing Maya fres- (Continued on page 145)
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Q U I N TA N A R O O
(Continued from page 140) selection of omelets and other breakfasts; the
huevos chetumaleños (eggs, cheese, chaya – a
Hotel Guadalupe (%832-8649; Calle Ignacio Zaragoza spinach-like vegetable, tomato and onion,
226; s/d/tr with fan US$22/22/25, with air-con US$35/35/40; US$4.50) are excellent. A full range of coffee
pa) Seventeen spic-n-span rooms that rounds out the morning meal. Among the
are slightly stale smelling but which air out. other offerings are sandwiches, great smooth-
Peach-pink walls make the place cheery, and ies, salads and various cuts of meat. It can get
the staff are very friendly. You could eat smoky at times, as smoking is allowed.
dinner off the spotless floors. Restaurant Pantoja (%832-3957; cnr Av Mahatma
Hotel Caribe Princess (%/fax 832-0900; Av Álvaro Gandhi & 16 de Septiembre; mains US$3-7; h7am-7pm)
Obregón 168; s/d/tr US$39/46/56; pa) A friendly, A popular, family-run restaurant serving
well-run place with an expansive lobby and breakfasts, enchiladas and a variety of meat
comfy sofas. All rooms have air-con, phone dishes. It offers a US$4 menu del día. Fan-
and TV, and there’s off-street parking. cooled, it gets a bit warm in the pm.
Hotel Los Cocos (%832-0544; www.hotelloscocos El Taquito de Don Julio (Plutarco Elías Calles 220;
.com.mx; cnr Av Héroes & Calle Héroes de Chapultepec; d tacos US$0.80-1.20, mains US$7; hnoon-5pm & 7pm-1am
with air-con & TV US$75-90, ste US$100-160; ais) Mon-Sat) This is an airy, simple dining room
Has a great location, nice swimming pool, and a good spot for night owls. The small
wireless access, a guarded parking lot and tacos cost slightly more with cheese; other
a popular sidewalk restaurant. Rooms have menu offerings include cheap snacks, tortas
fridges, but are a bit small and musty for and vegetarian brochettes (US$3.50).
the price. El Fenicio (cnr Av Héroes & Calle Ignacio Zaragoza;
Holiday Inn Chetumal Puerta Maya (%835- mains US$3.50-8; h24hr) Come here at 11pm
0400; www.holiday-inn.com/chetumalmex; Av Héroes 171; and you’ll feel like you’ve stepped into a
d US$130, ste US$169-353; s) The best in town, Hopper painting: the yellow light, the few
with comfortable rooms that overlook a solitary diners hunched over a meal. The
small courtyard, a swimming pool set amid food, a selection of mainly Mexican fare, is
tropical gardens, and a restaurant and bar. tasty and served promptly. Flan and decent
The Maya sun mirror in the lobby adds American-style coffee are a tasty way to fin-
interesting flair. ish the day.
Pollo Brujo (%837-4747; Av Álvaro Obregón 208;
Eating & Drinking h10am-10pm) West of Hotel María Dolores.
Panadería y Pastelería La Invencible (%832-0685; A roasted half chicken costs US$3.60, a
Calle Carmen Ochoa de Merino; breads US$1-4 h7am-9pm whole one US$7.20; take it with you or dine
Mon-Sat) West of Avenida Héroes, this bakery in the air-con salon. Service is with a snarl.
produces excellent pastries of a quality well Sergio’s Pizzas (%832-2991; cnr Avs Álvaro Obregón
above the usual Mexican standard. & 5 de Mayo; pizza US$4.50-17, mains US$6-16) A well
Barrios (cnr Othón P Blanco & Independencia; mains air-conditioned place serving pizzas and
US$1-5; h8am-2pm Mon-Sat) Great little eatery cold beer in frosted mugs, plus Mexican
with Mexican favorites such as salbutes or and continental dishes, steaks and seafood,
quesadillas and cebada, a refreshing barley complemented by an extensive wine list.
drink. Costa Azul (%129-2002; Calle Ignacio Zaragoza 166;
Café-Restaurant Los Milagros (%832-4433; Calle mains US$6-12; h11:30-8pm) Popular palapa-
Ignacio Zaragoza btwn Avs 5 de Mayo & Héroes; breakfast topped airy watering hole/restaurant with
US$2.50-7, mains US$4-6; h 7:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, a fun Caribbean-Chetumalan vibe. Just
7:30am-1pm Sun) Serves great espresso and plastic chairs and (sometimes) a mariachi
food indoors and outdoors. A favorite with or two.
Chetumal’s student and intellectual set, Euro Buffet (Othón P Blanco btwn Avs Benito Juárez
it’s also a place to play chess or dominoes, & Héroes; h11am-5pm Mon-Fri) Offering build-
chat, or observe a local radio program being your-own salads and a buffet-style selection
broadcast from one of the tables. of mains, Euro Buffet is a good choice for
Espresso Café (%832-5752; cnr 22 de Enero & Av vegetarians. However, it is not strictly vege-
Miguel Hidalgo; breakfast US$2.50-3.50, sandwiches US$3- tarian; some dishes may have meat, so ask
4.50, mains US$6-8.50; h8am-midnight) Facing the if in doubt. Priced by the kilo, a good sized
bay, it has an upscale ambience and a good plate can be yours for US$9.
146 S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • C o r re d o r A r q u e o l ó g i c o www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
Across from the Holiday Inn is the Mer- other nearby destinations. Departures listed
cado Ignacio Manuel Altamirano and its in the table are from the main terminal un-
row of small, simple eateries serving inex- less otherwise noted.
pensive meals. Similar is the upstairs area
in the Nuevo Mercado Lázaro Cárdenas (Calzada TAXI
Veracruz). Gibson Taxi Service ([email protected])
Supermercado San Francisco de Asís, charges US$25/40 to the border/Corozal. Run
just east of the bus terminal, has a wide by a father-daughter team, they are friendly,
selection of groceries, and is a full depart- helpful and (because they’re from Belize)
ment store besides. English speaking. Though pricier than a
bus, their taxi can wait for you and they
Getting There & Away can assist with border problems if you en-
AIR counter corrupt guards (see the boxed text,
Chetumal’s small airport is less than 2km p149).
northwest of the city center along Avenida
Obregón. Getting Around
Aviacsa (%832-7765, airport 832-7787; cnr Lázaro From anywhere in town taxis charge a flat
Cárdenas & Av 5 de Mayo) flies to Mexico City once fare of US$1.50 to the bus station. Getting
a day Sunday to Friday. a taxi at the ADO station is US$2. Walking
For flights to Belize City (and on to Flores, outside and flagging one down from the
to reach Tikal) or to Belize’s cays, cross the street will save you US$0.50.
border into Belize and fly from Corozal. Taxis from the stand at the bus terminal
charge US$0.90 to US$1 to the center (agree
BUS on the price before getting in, as some will
The main bus terminal is about 2km north try to charge per person). If you can’t get a
of the center, near the intersection of Avs fair price, walk to the street (Avenida Insur-
Insurgentes and Belice. Services are pro- gentes), turn left (east), and walk a little over
vided by Deluxe Omnitur del Caribe, a block to the traffic circle at Avenida Héroes
Maya de Oro and Super Expresso; ADO to hail a taxi. From here you can also catch
and Cristóbal Colón (1st class); and (2nd the cheapest ride to the center (US$0.20 per
class) TRT, Sur and Mayab (a cut above), person) in an eastbound (‘Santa María’ or
among others. The terminal has lockers (in ‘Calderitas’) combi (van). The route will be
the store against the east wall, near the pay circuitous. To reach the terminal from the
toilets), a bus information kiosk (open until center, head for the combi and taxi stands
3pm), an ATM, a cafeteria and shops. on Avenida Belice behind the Museo de la
You can also buy tickets for some lines Cultura Maya. If you’re traveling by combi,
and get information about most bus serv- ask to be dropped off at the glorieta (traf-
ices at the ADO office (Av Belice; h6am-10pm), just fic circle) at Avenida Insurgentes. Head left
west of the Museo de la Cultura Maya. (west) to reach the terminal. You can reach
Many local buses, and those bound for the immigration office via the same combis;
Belize, begin their runs from the Nuevo Mer- it’s about 800m north of the glorieta (ask for
cado Lázaro Cárdenas (Calzada Veracruz at Confederación the ‘oficina de inmigración’).
Nacional Campesina, also called Segundo Circuito), about
10 blocks north of Avenida Primo de Ver- CORREDOR ARQUEOLÓGICO
dad. From this market, most 1st-class Belize- The Corredor Arqueológico comprises the
bound buses continue to the long-distance archaeological sites of Dzibanché and Kohun-
terminal and depart from there 15 minutes lich (h8am-5pm). At the time of research,
later; the 2nd-class buses don’t. Tickets can one admission ticket got you into both, and
be purchased on board the buses or (1st-class tourists were also free on Sunday (this may
only) at the main terminal. There’s usually vary based on the person collecting the fee).
a Belizean driver who can give information As at most Maya sites charging an entry fee,
(in English and Spanish) at the café on the the use of a video camera requires you to
corner of the market parking lot. pay an extra US$3 at the first site visited,
The minibus terminal (cnr Avs Primo de Verdad which gives you a slip you can use all day,
& Miguel Hidalgo) has services to Bacalar and at as many sites as you can reach.
www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • C o r re d o r A r q u e o l ó g i c o 147
Q U I N TA N A R O O
BUS SERVICES FROM CHETUMAL
Destination Cost Duration Departures
TINY TRAIL-BLAZERS
The many small trails you’ll see crisscrossing the cleared areas in many of the ruins baffle observant
visitors. What made them? A rodent? To get the answer right you have to think tiny: ants.
Leaf-cutter ants, to be specific. Sometimes marching up to several kilometers from their colony,
leaf-cutter ants walk in single file along predetermined routes, often wearing down a pathway
over a period of months or years. Patient observers can often see the tiny landscapers at work,
carrying fingernail-sized clippings back home.
Though they can bite if molested, these ants are generally harmless and should be left in peace
to do their work. In Cobá (p127) there are several ant trails that run in perfect parallel along the
sacbeob (stone-paved avenues), as if the Maya had created ant-only lanes alongside their own.
On descending, head to your left (south) age (VIP) and burial offerings. The nearly
and thread between a mound on the right 360-degree views from the very top of the
and a low, mostly restored, stepped struc- temple (it’s a bit dicey, so be careful) are
ture on the left. This structure is Edificio 16, quite impressive. You can see Grupo Lamay
Palacio de los Tucanes; in the center from to the west and may spot Kinich-Ná, more
the side you first approach on are the visible than 2km to the northwest.
remains of posts that bore a mask. But the
path brings you into Plaza Gann. Circling it Kinich-Ná
counterclockwise takes you past Edificio 14 Part of Dzibanché but well removed from
(stuck onto the north side of a larger build- the main site, Kinich-Ná consists of one
ing), decorated at the base with tamborcillos building. But what a building: the mega-
(little drums), in late Classic Río Bec style – lithic Acrópolis held at least five temples
look up the dirt hill to see them. The larger on three levels, and a couple more dead
building to the south is Edificio 13, Templo VIPs with offerings. The site’s name derives
de los Cautivos, so named for the carvings in from the frieze of the Maya sun god once
its steps of captives submitting to whatever found at the top of the structure. It’s an
captives submitted to in those days. This easy drive of 2km along a narrow but good
seems to be the dominant (if you’ll pardon road leading north from near Dzibanché’s
the pun) theme in most Maya stelae. visitors center.
On the east side of the plaza is Dzi-
banché’s highest structure, the Templo de KOHUNLICH
los Cormoranes (Cormorants; Edificio 2), The most accessible of the corridor’s ruins
whose upper structure has been restored, has nearly 200 mounds still covered in vege-
while the lower part remains covered in tation. The surrounding jungle is thick and
greenery. A vaulted passage beckons half- worthy of a visit just to feel like you’re
way up, but at last pass it was forbidden to stepping back into the Jurassic age. The
climb the temple. archaeological site (admission US$4, Sun free) itself
Exit the plaza by climbing the stone steps has been cleared selectively and is now a
to the north of Edificio 2, noting the impos- delightful forest park and very compact.
ing copó tree (source of the fragrant copal in- Drinks are sometimes sold at the site, and
cense) on your left growing out of the corner it has toilets.
of the Palacio Norte. At the top of the stairs is The ruins, dating from both the late pre-
Plaza del Xibalbá (Plaza of the Underworld), Classic (AD 100–200) and the early Clas-
though it’s higher than Plaza Gann. sic (AD 300–600) periods, are famous for
Opposite Palacio Norte is, of course, the great Templo de los Mascarones (Temple of
Palacio Sur, and you can now see more of the Masks), a pyramidlike structure with a
Edificio 2, but the most notable building is central stairway flanked by huge, 3m-high
across the plaza: Edificio 1, the Templo del stucco masks of the sun god. The thick lips
Buho (Temple of the Owl). It had an inner and prominent features are reminiscent
chamber with a stairway leading down to of Olmec sculpture. Of the eight original
another chamber, in which were found masks, only two are relatively intact follow-
the remains of a Very Important Person- ing the ravages of archaeological looters.
www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • C o r re d o r A r q u e o l ó g i c o 149
Q U I N TA N A R O O
The masks themselves are impressive, Getting There & Away
but you can only see them from close up The turnoff for Dzibanché from Hwy 186
because the large thatch coverings that have is about 44km west of Chetumal, on the
been erected to protect them from further right just after the Zona Archeológica sign.
weathering obscure the view. Try to im- From there it’s another 24km north and
agine what the pyramid and its red masks east along a pot-holed road. It’s quite pass-
must have looked like in the old days as the able in a passenger car, but watch for live-
Maya approached them across the sunken stock, sun-drunk iguanas and bird life. Just
courtyard at the front. after the tiny town of Morocoy you’ll need
A few hundred meters southwest of Plaza to turn right again. It’s easy to miss the sign
Merwin are the 27 Escalones (27 Steps), the unless you’re looking for it.
remains of an extensive residential area, Kohunlich’s turnoff is 3km west along
with photogenic trees growing out of the Hwy 186 from the Dzibanché turnoff, and
steps themselves. the site lies at the end of a paved 8.5km
The hydraulic engineering used at Ko- road. It’s a well-paved straight shot from
hunlich was a great achievement; 90,000 the highway.
of the site’s 210,000 sq meters were cut to At the time of writing, there was no pub-
channel rainwater into Kohunlich’s once lic transportation running directly to ei-
enormous reservoir. ther of the sites. They’re best visited by car,
NO-MAN’S LAND
‘No-Man’s Land’ is the strip of territory after the Mexican exit but before you’ve crossed into Belize.
Many tourists head to Chetumal expecting to make a quick zip across the border and back to
renew their tourist card. While most tourists cross without problem, the occasional unscrupulous
official will invent an excuse to not let you through even though that is perfectly legitimate.
Often they’ll say there’s a ‘Minimum 72-hour stay in Belize.’ (There isn’t.) Or they’ll claim
that you need a Mexican re-entry stamp for them to let you through. (You don’t.) Sometimes
they’ll say that Belize doesn’t welcome day trips, as ‘tourists don’t spend enough money in their
country.’ (The Belizean Consulate says trips, even day trips, across the border are perfectly fine,
as do the Mexican officials.)
If a guard decides to single you out, there’s not a lot you can do other than pay up or beg
your way back into Mexico and try again.
It’s better to avoid being targeted. The following should help:
Group up with other foreign travelers, even if you’re heading separate ways.
If you’re on a bus, get toward the front of the line so that other people will be around to wit-
ness if you’re being hassled.
Get visas and other papers stamped at the Belize office in Chetumal prior to crossing.
Don’t disclose that you’re intending a day trip, and look like you’re heading through for a
long time by bringing your whole backpack instead of a day pack.
Even if you are not planning to return to Mexico, if you have more than a few days left on
your tourist card you can have it prestamped for a re-entry by Mexican exit officials. This
costs only US$10 and is a good way to ensure a smooth crossing onward, as the Belize guards
know you have the ‘luxury’ of returning to Mexico without needing a new card.
Stay calm and be polite if you are not let through, and insist on speaking to a superior. Often
the yellow-shirted guards are more understanding and helpful than the white-shirted officials
behind the desk.
Crossing back into Mexico, be sure to check that your Belize exit stamp is clear and easy to
read, with the official’s signature and the date written inside. An occasional trick is to hold the
passport out of sight and stamp another piece of paper, then hand the closed, unstamped
passport back to the unsuspecting traveler. Checking the stamp will save you heartache (and
dinero!) at the Mexican border.
150 S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • Z o n a L i b re www.lonelyplanet.com
Q U I N TA N A R O O
though Kohunlich could conceivably be Walking back you may need to show your
reached by taking an early bus to the village passport, but usually officials will just ask
of Francisco Villa near the turnoff, then where you’ve been and wave you through.
either hitchhiking or walking the 8.5km to
the site. To return by bus to Chetumal or SOUTH TO BELIZE & GUATEMALA
head west to Xpujil or Escárcega you must Corozal
hope to flag down a bus on the highway; not %501 / pop 8000
all buses will stop. This fairly laid-back town, 18km south of
Taxis can be rented per hour in Chetumal the Mexico–Belize border, is an appropriate
for as little as US$15; a group could pile in introduction to English-speaking Belize. It
and split the cost. has several hotels and restaurants catering to
Tour operators in Xpujil (see p233) a full range of budgets, and makes a fun visit,
offer trips to Kohunlich and Dzibanché for though it’s markedly different than cosmo-
US$75. politan Chetumal. There’s a simple plaza in
the center, a waterfront, and a lot of chick-
ZONA LIBRE ens running around. A Belize Bank with an
A bustling free-trade zone sprawling over ATM is at the plaza. Several radio stations
24 muddy hectares in a no-man’s land be- offer a more cross-cultural selection of tunes
tween the borders of Belize and Mexico, than is available north of the border.
the Zona Libre draws thousands of Mexi- All these places are within a five-minute
cans seeking cheap liquor and cigarettes, walk from the bus stop.
knockoff clothing and CDs and other shiny Corozal Guest House (%422-0634; 6th Ave No 22;
things. Before Christmas time and at other US$45; n) ‘Your Friendly Guest House’ and
busy shopping periods, up to 18,000 vehi- indeed it is. Muslim owned, it’s clean and
cles a day line up to enter the Zone, includ- simple, with spacious rooms, towels and
ing charter buses from Mérida and even soap.
as far as Mexico City. Two casinos should Marvitor Guest House (%623-7853; 2nd St No 16;
draw even more people when they open. US$40-50) Airy rooms can harbor mosquitoes
East Indian, Chinese, Korean, Viet- at night, but are clean and pretty, with pale
namese and other merchants hawk ‘Puwa’ teal paint and simple beds.
sportswear, ‘Abidas’ sneakers, T-shirts and Both Al’s Cafe (h8am-3pm) and Jo Mel In
some genuine-brand goods. About the only (h6:30am-3pm Mon-Sat) offer inexpensive Be-
real bargains are on liquor and cigarettes, lizean meals.
though if you look hard you can sometimes Gilharry Bus service, across the street, has
find fair hiking boots, trousers with zip-off US$2 rides to the Belize–Mexico border.
legs and the like. Mountain-type bicycles Buses run directly from Chetumal’s
with shocks and gears can be had for as lit- market to Belize City via Corozal (US$3)
tle as US$50. At that price, when it breaks and Orange Walk (US$6); all connect with
you can just give it away. buses to Melchor de Mencos in Guatemala.
Minibuses depart from their terminal in From there continue onward to Flores, the
Chetumal at the corner of Avs Primo de superb Maya site of Tikal and other points
Verdad and Hidalgo about every half hour in Guatemala. There are also buses from
between 6am and 9pm, charging US$0.80 Chetumal to Flores (Tikal is an hour be-
for the 20-minute trip. If traffic is bad at yond Flores). See p146 for details. Taxis
the border you can get off and walk over will take you from Chetumal to the border
the bridge, then turn left; you can’t miss it. for US$5.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
151
Yucatán State
Yucatán state sits at the northern tip of the peninsula, a thick slice of pie pointing southward.
Chichén Itzá, one of the most famous Maya ruins, is the area’s prime attraction; however,
ruin hunters will not want to miss Uxmal, Ek’ Balam, and the Ruta Puuc. Beautiful, enigmatic
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
and sinister, these monuments still speak of Maya sacrifice to placate the sun gods. Walk
among the structures for an hour or two and you’ll want to appease those same gods. It
can get hot here.
If ruins aren’t your thing, you’ll find natural beauty, giant ceiba trees, stark desert, un-
touched villages, and the region’s capital, Mérida: a bustling, modern metropolis with a nice
mix of youthful energy and old colonial charm. Valladolid is roughly between Cancún and
Mérida. It has swimmable, otherworldly cenotes, yummy restaurants, and makes a great
hub for day trips to the area’s many wonders. Ruined henequen haciendas throughout the
region speak of bygone plantation days; the ubiquitous churches tell tales of colonization
and missionary zeal.
On the local roads you’ll pass villagers on pedibikes, cutting firewood or hunting birds, see
ancient churches whose histories have been lost, and find henequen fields still owned by ejidos
(communes). The people, mostly of Maya descent, are shy but helpful; most are curious about
strangers and will be happy to help answer questions, though English speakers are few.
Plenty of tourists never make it beyond Cancún, which is a shame: Yucatán state is steeped
in history and is markedly less touristy than the Riviera Maya. Even the beach locations of
Progreso and Celestún have far more locals visiting and are much more low key. The beaches
offer fantastic sunbathing, and nearby lagoons are excellent for birders to see unusual red
flamingos, roseate spoonbills, storks and many more. Prices in the state are much lower than
in Cancún, and decent roads and frequent buses make getting here easy.
HIGHLIGHTS
Marvel at Mérida (p153), a city rich in beautiful Río Lagartos
colonial architecture and history
Discover mysteries in the great Toltec-Maya Dzibilchaltún Ek'Balam
ceremonial centers of Chichén Itzá (p191) and Celestún
Mérida
Cuzamá
Dzibilchaltún (p187) Chichén Itzá
Hunt for flamingos and crocodiles amongst the Uxmal
mangroves of Reserva de la Biósfera Ría
Celestún (p184) or Río Lagartos (p204)
See amazingly preserved façades in Ek’ Balam (p202)
and the superb ornamentation of Uxmal (p172)
Ride a horse-drawn train cart and stop at swimable cenotes in
Cuzamá (p180)
© Lonely Planet Publications
YUCATÁN STATE
90ºW 89ºW
Gulf of
Mexico
ᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲᝲᝲ
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
Reserva Estatal
Dzilam de Bravo
Telchac MEX
Puerto 27 Dzilam de
Uaymitún MEX Bravo
Progreso 27
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
MEX
Yucalpetén Chicxulub Xcambó 172
Puerto Buctzotz
MEX MEX
Dzemul MEX
Sisal 261 4 176
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Motul
MEX
25 Dzibilchaltún Tepakán
Conkal
21ºN Hunucmá Tixkokob
MÉRIDA
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Estero International Hacienda
Airport Kanasín Ake Balantún
Celestún Kinchil
Ticopo Izamal
Umán MEX
Celestún MEX
180
Hacienda 281 Hoctún Tunkas
Real de Samahil Petectunich Seyé
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Salinas Zoccel Kantunil Dzitas
Reserva de MEX
Acanceh
Punta la Biósfera 180
Nimún Ría Celestún Hacienda
Santo
Chocholá
Yaxcopoil Tecoh Huhí
exit
Isla Hacienda Hacienda Cuzamá
Hacienda Pisté
Arena Kochol Santa Rosa Ochil Chichén
Hacienda Kopoma Abalá Telchaquillo Itzá
La Chunchucmil Maxcanú
Hacienda MEX 18 Sotuta
Costa Calcehtok 261 Ruinas de
Granada San Pedro
Mayapán Tekit
Oxkintok Grutas de Yaxcabá
Calcehtok Muna Sacalum Mayapán
Mama
Santa Bécal
Cruz Ticul
Santa Maní Teabo
Calkiní Elena
Uxmal
Grutas de Oxkutzcab
Loltún
Kabah
Labná Tekax
Cooperativa
Hecelchakán Sayil MEX
Xlapak 184
MEX Peto
sias
261 Xul
Bolonchén Tzucacab
Igle
Tenabo
20ºN de Rejón Itzimté Santa Las
Rosa a de
Rut
Laguna
MEX Dzuiché Chicnancanab
CAMPECHE 180
Yucatán
To Villahermosa Tahacok
(373km) José María
San Hopelchén Morelos
Antonio
Cayal
Iturbide Polyuc
Edzná Pakchén Dzibilnocac
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
El Tabasqueño
Pich Dzibalchén
To Villahermosa
Hochob
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Campeche Laguna
Xpaitoro
Ucum Xmaben
19ºN
90ºW
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ Reserva de la
Biósfera Calakmul
89ºW
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • H i s t o r y 153
0 80 km
0
88ºW
50 miles
MÉRIDA
%999 / pop 920,000
For those arriving via Cancún and heading
southward through the rest of Mexico, Mér-
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
ida offers the first glimpse of what’s to come:
beautiful Spanish-colonial buildings line the
Las
Río
Coloradas Estero Río narrow streets, the markets offer a cornuco-
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
San Lagartos
Lagartos
Felipe pia of fruits and vegetables, and restaurants
El Cuyo
Reserva de la
Biósfera Ría
offer cheap, delicious Mexican, fusion or Yu-
catecan food. Numerous parks and plazas
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
Lagartos
MEX
295
make it prettier than many other Mexican
To Chiquila
cities of a similar size. Excellent museums
Panabá (15km)
San
make it easy to fill up an afternoon, and its
Colonia
Yucatán
Ángel central location allows day trips and tours to
MEX
beaches, ruins, jungles, cenotes, and more.
176
Sucilá Tizimín
Kantunilkín
A number of inexpensive hostels and hotels
make lengthy stays possible.
21ºN
Espita
Calotmul
Popolnah The downsides here are the sweltering
Genesis Yokdzonot
Eco Retreat Nuevo heat, pollution and traffic, and over-energetic
Xcan
Ek'Balam hawkers selling everything from hammocks
Xcan To Cancún
(68km)
to shot glasses, often at inflated prices.
Tinum MEX
exit 180D
Valladolid HISTORY
MEX
Chemax
Francisco de Montejo (the Younger) founded
180
Chichimilá a Spanish colony at Campeche, about 160km
to the southwest, in 1540. From this base
MEX
295 Cobá he took advantage of political dissension
amongst the Maya, conquering T’ho (now
To Cancún
Mérida) in 1542. By decades end, Yucatán
was mostly under Spanish colonial rule.
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲ
(130km)
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲ
Nacional
Tulum
of lime-mortared stone that reminded them
Laguna
of the Roman architecture in Mérida, Spain.
Chunyaxché 20ºN They promptly renamed the city and pro-
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
ceeded to build it into the regional capital,
Quintana
Roo dismantling the Maya structures and using
the materials to construct a cathedral and
ᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲ ᝲ
ᝲᝲ
other stately buildings. Mérida took its co-
MEX
MEX
307 lonial orders directly from Spain, not from
295
Mexico City, and Yucatán has had a distinct
ᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲ ᝲ
ᝲᝲ
MEX
184 cultural and political identity ever since.
Laguna
Felipe
Carrillo
During the War of the Castes (see p32),
Kaná
Puerto only Mérida and Campeche were able to
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲ
ᝲᝲᝲ
Reserva
Laguna
Ocom
de la
Biósfera
hold out against the rebel forces. On the
Sian Ka’an brink of surrender, the ruling class in Mé-
MEX
rida was saved by reinforcements sent from
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲ
307
154 M É R I D A • • O r i e n t a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com
Mérida today is the peninsula’s center of Cibercafé Santa Lucía (cnr Calles 55 & 62;
commerce, a bustling city that has benefited h8am-1am) Has free coffee while you surf and is
greatly from the maquiladoras (assembly one of the few stores to sell the delicious Mexican
plants) that opened in the 1980s and 1990s Jarritos-brand sodas.
and the tourism industry industry that Cybernet (Calle 57A btwn Calles 58 & 60; h9am-9pm
picked up during those decades. Mon-Sat) Has several terminals and is conveniently
located.
ORIENTATION
The Plaza Grande, as méridanos call the Internet Resources
main square, has been the city’s heart since www.maps-of-mexico.com/merida_mexico_maps.shtml
the time of the Maya. Though Mérida now (Interactive maps.)
sprawls several kilometers in all directions, www.merida.gob.mx (Mérida’s government site;
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
Many Internet cafés have a small toilet Hawkers are annoying but generally
that paying customers can use. Bring your harmless. Report the more obnoxious ones
own toilet paper, and be sure all used paper to Mérida’s Policía Turística (Tourist Police; %925-
is put in the trash can, not flushed. 2555 ext 260), who wear brown-and-white
uniforms; during the day you can almost
Tourist Information always find an officer at the Palacio de Go-
The tourist information booths at the air- bierno or elsewhere on the Plaza Grande.
port and the CAME bus terminal have
coupons for lodging discounts and hotel SIGHTS
suggestions. Three tourist offices down- Plaza Grande
town have more current information, bro- ‘El Centro’ is one of the nicest plazas in
chures, bus schedules, and maps. Mexico. Huge laurel trees shade the park’s
City tourist office (%942-0000 ext 80119; Calle 62 on benches and wide sidewalks, and it is sur-
Plaza Grande; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) Just rounded by a bustle of pedestrians who
south of the main entrance to the Palacio Municipal, it is shop or sip coffee at the many open-air
staffed with helpful English speakers who provide probably cafés. It was the religious and social center
the best city information of the three offices, and can give of ancient T’ho; under the Spanish it was
hotel and shopping recommendations. the Plaza de Armas, the parade ground, laid
State tourist office (%930-3101; Calle 61 on Plaza out by Francisco de Montejo the Younger.
Grande; h8am-9pm) In the entrance to the Palacio de A ceremony is held daily marking the rais-
Gobierno. It usually has an English speaker on hand and ing and lowering of the Mexican flag. On
provides city and state information. Sunday hundreds of Méridanos take their
Tourist Information Center (%924-9290; cnr Calles paseo (stroll) here.
60 & 57A; h8am-9pm) Less than two blocks north of the
state tourist office, on the southwest edge of the Teatro CATEDRAL DE SAN ILDEFONSO
Peón Contreras, is this office used for training tourism On the plaza’s east side, on the site of a
students. The verbal information is so-so, but it has a good former Maya temple, is Mérida’s hulking,
supply of brochures, maps of downtown Mérida and the severe cathedral (h6am-noon & 4-7pm), begun
peninsula, and a list of hotels. There’s always an English- in 1561 and completed in 1598. Some of
speaker on hand, and sometimes a speaker of Italian or the stone from the Maya temple was used
French. in its construction. The massive crucifix be-
Yucatán Today (%927-8531; www.yucatantoday.com; hind the altar is Cristo de la Unidad (Christ of
Calle 39 No 483 int 10 btwn Calles 54 & 56) A Spanish- Unity), a symbol of reconciliation between
English magazine devoted to tourism in Yucatán. Pick up a those of Spanish and Maya heritage. To the
copy of the magazine or visit the website for great tips and right over the south door is a painting of
useful information. Tutul Xiú, cacique of the town of Maní,
paying his respects to his ally Francisco
Travel Agencies de Montejo at T’ho (de Montejo and Xiú
Nómadas Travel (%948-1187; www.nomadastravel jointly defeated the Cocomes; Xiú con-
.com.mx; Prolongación Paseo de Montejo No 370, Colonia verted to Christianity, and his descendants
Benito Juárez Norte) It’s out of the way in the north of still live in Mérida).
town, but Nómadas Travel books flights, selling both SATA In the small chapel to the left of the altar
(student discount) and IATA (regular) tickets. You can also is Mérida’s most famous religious artifact,
© Lonely Planet Publications
156 M É R I D A www.lonelyplanet.com
MÉRIDA
A B C D
To Inegi (80m);
French Consulate (400m);
Av Colón (600m)
To US Consulate (500m); Fiesta Americana Mérida (600m);
Hyatt Regency Mérida (600m); Plaza Las Americas (1km); Click (1.5km);
Continental Airlines (1.5km); Ecoturismo Yucatán (4km);
1
72
Nómadas Travel (5km); Dzibilchaltún (17km); 33
Progreso (33km) Calle 4
Ὀ
Call
3
76 96
ntejo
ntejo
Calle 45
Iglesia de
de Mo
de Mo
Santa Ana
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
Parque
Paseo
Paseo
Santa Ana
90
Calle 47
Calle 4 67 Calle 47
7A
2
11
6A
Calle 5
Calle Calle 49
Calle 62
51
49
Calle 60
8
Calle 5
56
59 62
Calle
ὈὈ ὈὈ
57 Calle 51
35 39
Calle 53
52
3
Calle 61 51
55A
ὈὈ
Parque
9 Santa 29
Lucía 60 54
83 24
80
Mercado 16 56 55
92 82
70 12
Parque de 53
Iglesia de 75 43 64
Santiago 37 77
Ὀ
Santiago 94
65 45
To Parque 14 Calle 59 34 85 69
97 10 Calle 57
81 87
Centenario (300m); 95 Parque de
Zoo (300m) 41 4 89 23
66 Congreso la Madre
27
4 1
68 Parque
84 73 Hidalgo Calle 5
9
72
A
Calle 66
22 38
26 31
17 3
88 71
25
70
Plaza
Grande Calle 6
50 1
Calle
Iglesia 58 20 19
Ὀ
Calle 6
La Monjas
Calle 6
40 30
4
To Av Itzáes (200m);
Calle 6
Hospital O'Horán(500m) 74
2
5 6
Calle 6
Calle 6
Calle 6
3
Calle 58
15 13
7
5
Calle 56
48
79
Ὀ
4
Calle 5
99 86 Calle 6
46 Iglesia Nuestra 5
Señora de la 18
63 Candelaria
6A
102
4A
Calle 67
Calle 5
Uxmal (78km);
Mercado
Ὀ
Campeche (175km)
44 Municipal
Lucas de
91 Gálvez
2 Calle 69 100 Calle 78
93 103 Parque 67
de San
Juan Iglesia de
6 San Juan
Calle 71 Calle
69
www.lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • S i g h t s 157
0
0 0.2 miles
400 m
a statue called Cristo de las Ampollas (Christ
of the Blisters). Local legend says the statue
E F was carved from a tree that was hit by light-
To Yucatán
Today ning and burned for an entire night without
charring. It is also said to be the only object
1 to have survived the fiery destruction of the
church in the town of Ichmul (though it
was blackened and blistered from the heat).
The statue was moved to the Mérida’s cath-
edral in 1645.
Other than these items, the cathedral’s
interior is largely plain, its rich decoration
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
having been stripped away by angry peas-
ants at the height of anticlerical feeling dur-
2 ing the Mexican Revolution.
ὈὈ
sculptors, changing exhibits of local arts
and crafts, and a cafeteria.
The Casa de Montejo (Palacio de Montejo;
h 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) is on the
Calle 5
5 south side of the Plaza Grande and dates
from 1549. It originally housed soldiers
but was soon converted into a mansion
42 that served members of the Montejo fam-
0A
4
Calle 5
Parque
de La 28
Mejorada
32
bank hours. At other times, content your-
self with a close look at the façade, where
triumphant conquistadors with halberds
To Mayapán (48km); hold their feet on the necks of generic
Chichén Itzá (117km);
Valladolid (160km); barbarians (though they’re not Maya, the
Cancún (320km)
association is inescapable). Typical of the
50
48
Calle
158 M É R I D A • • S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com
www.lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • S i g h t s 159
North of the church is the enormous its predecessors, the Paseo de Montejo is
bulk of the Teatro Peón Contreras (cnr Calles 60 still a beautiful swath of green, relatively
& 57; hto visitors 9-6pm Tue-Sat), built between open space in an urban conglomeration of
1900 and 1908, during Mérida’s henequen stone and concrete.
heyday. It boasts a main staircase of Carrara Europe’s architectural and social influ-
marble, a dome with faded frescoes by Ital- ence can be seen along the paseo in the fine
ian artists and various paintings and murals mansions built by wealthy families around
throughout the building. the end of the 19th century. The greatest
Across Calle 60 from the theater is the concentrations of surviving mansions are
main building of the Universidad de Yucatán. north of Calle 37, and on the first block of
The modern university was established in Avenida Colón west of Paseo de Montejo.
the 19th century by Governor Felipe Car-
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
rillo Puerto and General Manuel Cepeda Museo Regional de Antropología
Peraza. The great white Palacio Cantón houses the
A block north of the university is pretty Regional Anthropology Museum of the Yucatán
little Parque Santa Lucía (cnr Calles 60 & 55), with (%923-0557; cnr Paseo de Montejo & Calle 43; admission
arcades on the north and west sides. When US$3.30; h8am-8pm Tue-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun). Con-
Mérida was a lot smaller, this was where struction of the mansion lasted from 1909
travelers would get on or off the stage- to 1911, and its owner, General Francisco
coaches that linked towns and villages with Cantón Rosado (1833–1917), lived here for
the provincial capital. The Bazar de Arte- only six years before his death. The pala-
sanías, the local handicrafts market, is held cio’s splendor and pretension make it a
here at 11am on Sunday. fitting symbol of the grand aspirations of
Mérida’s elite during the last years of the
Paseo de Montejo porfiriato, the period from 1876 to 1911
The Paseo de Montejo, which runs paral- when Porfirio Díaz held despotic sway over
lel to Calles 56 and 58, was an attempt by Mexico.
Mérida’s 19th-century city planners to cre- The museum covers the peninsula’s his-
ate a wide boulevard similar to the Paseo de tory since the age of mastodons. Exhibits on
la Reforma in Mexico City or the Champs Maya culture include explanations (many
Élysées in Paris. Though more modest than in Spanish only) of such cosmetic practices
160 M É R I D A • • T o u r s www.lonelyplanet.com
as forehead-flattening (done to beautify 60) at 10am, 1pm, 4pm and 7pm Monday to
babies) causing eyes to cross and sharpen- Saturday, and 10am and 1pm Sunday. You
ing teeth and implanting them with tiny can buy your tickets ahead of time at nearby
jewels. If you plan to visit archaeological Hotel Santa Lucía, among other places.
sites near Mérida, you can study the ex-
hibits here – some with plans and photo- Regional Tours
graphs – covering the great Maya cities of Gaia Maya (% 928-8707; gaia-maya-tours@hotmail
Mayapán, Uxmal and Chichén Itzá, as well .com; Calle 62 No 407; half day US$28, whole day US$50) is
as lesser-known sites such as the marvelous a youth-oriented startup that offers original
Ek’ Balam. There’s also a good bookstore packages at very reasonable rates, in Eng-
with many archaeological titles. lish, Spanish or French. Half day tours ei-
ther go to Xcambó and San Crisanto, or
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
Book
w w waccommodations
. l o n e l y p l a n e online
t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • S l e e p i n g 161
GOT BUGS?
These little critters aren’t just inventions of a child’s lullaby: they’re real, and just like vampires,
they come out at night because they ‘vaaaant to saaaack your bluuuud.’ The good news is that,
unlike mosquitoes, bedbugs are not known to carry or transmit any diseases so don’t panic if
you do end up being the host (pun intended) for some uninvited dinner guests. When you do
get bitten, the bites look a bit like poison ivy, and are often on the wrists and ankles, sometimes
with three or four all spaced together in a line.
Minimize your chances at a hotel by asking to see a room first and looking closely for any (or
all) of these three warning signs:
Dirty smearing or smudgemarks near the walls or on the sheets. Just like swatting a
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
mosquito, killing a bedbug leaves a mark.
Small grains of black sand in any cracks or crevices. Yep, you guessed it: bedbug poop.
The buggies themselves. Newly hatched bedbugs appear almost translucent and are smaller
than a sugar ant, just a bit larger than a comma on a printed page. Full grown, they become
charcoal grey and look like armored lady bugs.
The bad news is that shelling out money doesn’t mean you can escape. Pest-control companies
in the USA have said even upmarket hotels can have infestations. The good news is that at the
time of research, all of the places listed in this guide passed the bedbug check. To minimize the
chances of spreading the critters, keep your backpack or luggage away from the bed at all times,
and don’t leave your clothes lying around. If you purchase a hammock, keep it outside for a week
or two and let the UV light do its sanitizing before bringing the thing inside.
Hostel Zocalo (%924-5223; www.nomadastravel Hotel y Restaurant San José (%928-6657; Calle
.com; Calle 63 No 508; hammock hooks, no breakfast US$4, 63 btwn Calles 62 & 64; s/d/tr/q with shared bathroom
dm US$7, s/d US$10/18; i) Great location and US$10/11/12/13, with bathroom US$13/15/17/19) It’s
a beautiful old colonial building make this located in a cool old building with faded
hostel unique. Its owners are lovingly re- charm about 30m west of the Plaza Grande.
storing it by hand. It has a laundry, and a It has 30 clean, good-sized rooms, set well
simple breakfast is included. The hosts are a off the street. The doubles, with two de-
wealth of information about the area. cent beds, have good bathrooms. The place
Nómadas Youth Hostel (%/fax 924-5223, 800- offers value and is a favorite with visiting
800-2625; www.nomadastravel.com; Calle 62 No 433 at Mennonites.
Calle 51; hammocks with mosquito net or tents with air Casa Ana B&B (%924-0005; www.casaana.com;
mattress US$6, dm US$7.80, s or d with/without bathroom Calle 52 No 469 btwn Calles 53 & 51; r US$30-45; as)
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
US$22/18; p) Has mixed and women’s dorms The Cuban owners have beautiful art on
and private rooms. All rates include break- the walls and the pool has a natural bot-
fast, and guests have use of a fully equipped tom. Though out of the way, the Casa Ana
kitchen with fridge and purified water, 24- is an intimate escape and features a cosy
hour hot showers and hand-laundry facili- jungle replete with Cuban tobacco plants
ties. Basic foods are provided on an honor (apparently attempts to roll cigars have
system, though the morning bread and failed). The rooms are spotless, with clean
coffee are rationed to three slices and one sheets, Mexican hammocks, and (whew)
cup respectively. Luggage lockers are free nice mosquito screens. Air-con is available
while you stay, US$1 a day while you travel. at an extra charge.
Bring mosquito repellent and earplugs, as Hotel Aragón (% /fax 924-0242; www.hotel
the front rooms can get traffic noise. aragon.com; Calle 57 No 474 btwn Calles 52 & 54; d/tw
Hostal del Peregrino (%924-5491; www.hostal US$32/37; a) Offers 18 very clean rooms
delperegrino.com; Calle 51 No 488; dm $12, d $30) On a with air-con on three floors overlooking a
quiet street, it’s earthy, homey and tasteful charming little courtyard with a curiously
and has a terrace bar. Breakfast is included narrow swimming pool. Room rates in-
in the price. clude a continental breakfast and purified
Alvarez Family Guest House (%924-3060; casa water; and free tea and coffee are available
[email protected]; Calle 62 No 448 btwn Calles 51 & 24 hours.
53; d incl breakfast US$20; pa ) Impeccably Hotel Trinidad Galería (%923-2463; fax 924-2319;
clean and in a family’s home, this ‘hostel www.hoteltrinidadgaleria.com; Calle 60 No 456 near Calle
plus’ offers a friendly, one-of-the-family 51; s/d US$32/37; sp) You will either love
ambiance, nice showers, spotless baths, this wacky place or find it disquieting: it’s
laundry, and parking. The make-your-own a maze of rooms and corridors filled (al-
style breakfast is a great way to meet other most overflowing!) with wild paintings and
travelers, though it can be a bit cramped if sculptures. The rooms vary considerably:
everyone’s eating at once. The guesthouse is some are dark and musty, while others offer
full of beautiful antiques, including an old well-vented bathrooms with good mosquito
cylinder-style gramaphone player, which screens; all have original works of art and
Enrique, the ever-accommodating owner, interesting posted rules, which include: ‘All
may demonstrate on request. deaths will be reported to the authorities.’
Hotel Casa Becil (%924-6764; hotelcasabecil@yahoo The art is the main reason to come here, a
.com.mx; Calle 67 No 550C btwn Calles 66 & 68; s/d/tr refreshing change from the usual framed
US$15/18/26) Almost a hostel but not quite, poster. It has a bar, a swimming pool, an
the Casa Becil’s friendly owner calls it a art gallery, and a fountain in the lobby that
‘BBC,’ for breakfast, bed, and coffee. The when we visited had several turtles swim-
place offers very inexpensive, clean rooms ming around.
with a fully equipped kitchen downstairs, Hotel Montejo (%928-0390; fax 924-2692; www
an intimate courtyard, a sun deck, beau- .hotelmontejo.com; Calle 57 btwn Calles 62 & 64; s/d
tiful tile floors, left-luggage service, book US$28/35, s/d/t with air-con US$35/41/47; a) This
exchange, tours, and more. The rooms are is an eclectic, one-of-a-kind hotel with a
breezy, without a hint of stuffiness, and the central courtyard loaded with 400-year-old
owner speaks excellent English. stone columns. Its big, clean rooms with
© Lonely Planet Publications
Book
w w waccommodations
. l o n e l y p l a n e online
t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • S l e e p i n g 163
classic colonial doors and tiled bathrooms Hotel San Juan (%/fax 924-1742; Calle 55 No
are distributed around the courtyard on 497A; s/d/tr/q US$34/40/46/50; aps) It offers
two floors. The Montejo’s bar-restaurant a nice garden area that leads to a small pool.
serves Yucatecan and continental dishes. Rooms are clean and relatively quiet with
The pool is clean but a bit leaf-scattered. phones, TV, and ageing air-con. You’ll feel
Hotel Dolores Alba (%928-5650, 800-849-5060; like you’re being pressure-washed in the
fax 928-3163; www.doloresalba.com; Calle 63 btwn Calles nice, hot showers.
52 & 54; s/d old US$26, d/tr new US$45/50; asp) Other options:
Rooms are on three floors (with an eleva- Hotel Los Arcos (%924-9728; Calle 63 btwn Calles 62
tor) around two large courtyards. The old & 64; s/d/tr US$14/16/23; p) Clean and peach pink with
rooms have no air-con and no TV. Those in frosting cake colors. It offers slightly dark rooms with OK
the new, modern wing are quite large, have bathrooms and beds, good screens, nice décor for the price
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
good beds, air-con, TV, and face the lovely and friendly management.
pool. The hotel has secure parking and is Hotel del Mayab (%928-5174; fax 928-6047; Calle 50
quiet, well managed and friendly. No 536A btwn Calles 65 & 67; d/tr/q with fan US$23/25/28,
Posada Toledo (%/fax 923-1690, 923-2256; hpto with air-con & TV US$30/35/40; aps) This place is
[email protected]; Calle 58 No 487 at Calle 57; d with clean and low-key and offers off-street parking. Streetside
fan/air-con US$34/40; ap) It’s a colonial man- rooms can be noisy, but interior rooms are quiet, and the
sion offering US$6 parking, small, some- hotel has a slightly murky swimming pool.
what modernized rooms arranged on two Posada del Ángel (%923-2754; Calle 67 No 535 btwn
floors around the classic courtyard, and a Calles 66 & 68; s/d/tr/q with fan US$18/25/32/39, with air-
dining room (breakfast only) straight out con US$24/32/40/48; ap) A neocolonial hotel three
of the 19th century. The newer, upstairs blocks northeast of Terminal CAME, it offers rooms with
rooms are larger than those on the ground good beds and crisp, clean sheets; it’s quieter here than at
floor. most other hotels in the area.
Hotel Trinidad (%923-2033; www.hotelestrinidad
.com; Calle 62 No 464 btwn Calles 55 & 57; d with/without Midrange
bathroom US$32/22, ste US$45; a) Occupies a co- Compared with many parts of the penin-
lonial house and a newer wing, and has a sula, many of Mérida’s midrange places
variety of rooms, each with its own unique provide surprising levels of comfort for the
décor and charm. Some rooms have good price, and bargains are everywhere…on
kitchenettes, most have air-con, and there’s every street. Literally.
even a rooftop Jacuzzi. The Trini has great Luz en Yucatán (%924-0035; www.luzenyucatan
common areas (including two courtyards, .com; Calle 55 btwn Calles 58 & 60; apt US$35-70; as)
one with a lovely garden), a billiard table, a The Luz has a welcoming and homey at-
book exchange, a small café, luggage stor- mosphere, with abundant local Mexican art
age, 24-hour tea, and guests have use of the and crafts. Furnishings are attractive and
pool at the nearby Hotel Trinidad Galería. comfortable, and hammocks hang in the
All rates include continental breakfast. rooms and garden. The seven apartments
Hotel Santa Lucía (%/fax 928-2672, %928- 2662; also rent by the week or month; the larger
Calle 55 No 508 btwn Calles 60 & 62; s/d/tr US$35/40/45; ones have air-con. Five apartments have full
as) Across from the park of the same kitchenettes; guests in the other two share a
name, it is clean, secure and popular, and kitchen, and all have use of the small pool
has an attractive lobby. The pool is small and some excellent common spaces, includ-
but clean, and the rooms have air-con, TV ing the large dining room downstairs. The
and phones. Rates include breakfast. Some- Luz also offers massage, facials, manicures,
one here really likes potted plants. pedicures, and classes in Spanish language,
Hotel María José (% 928-1868; www.hotel salsa dancing and yoga.
mariajose.com.mx; Calle 64 btwn Calles 53 & 55; s/d/ste Hotel Medio Mundo (% /fax 924-5472; www
US$38/43/51-59; ai ) This is a modern, .hotelmediomundo.com; Calle 55 No 533 btwn Calles 64 &
lime-yellow place in an old but recently re- 66; d/tr with fan US$55/75, r/ste with air-con US$50/75;
furbished building. The 20 cheery, air-con as) This former private residence has
rooms have decent beds and spotless bath- been completely remodeled and painted in
rooms, and the hotel’s restaurant serves lovely colors. Its 12 ample, simply furnished
three meals. rooms have super-comfortable beds (one
© Lonely Planet Publications
king or two queens), tile floors, beautiful it all. The building was once an old colonial
tile sinks, great bathrooms and plenty of house and has a lush garden and a clean,
natural light. One of the two courtyards well-lit pool. The sit-down showers are a
has a small swimming pool, the other a fun luxury.
fountain. The well-traveled, charming hosts Los Arcos Bed & Breakfast (%928-0214; www
prepare large, delicious ‘Continental Plus’ .losarcosmerida.com; Calle 66 btwn Calles 49 & 53; d/tw
breakfasts (US$8) and make their guests US$75/95; is) The Los Arcos is a lovely,
feel like part of the family. gay-friendly B&B with two guestrooms
Gran Hotel (%924-7730; fax 924-7622; www.gran at the end of a drop-dead-gorgeous gar-
hoteldemerida.com.mx; Calle 60 No 496 btwn Calles 59 & 61; den and pool area. Parrots, chihuahuas, a
s/d US$61/66; tr & q US$71-95; a) This was indeed Jacuzzi, and palm trees add to the décor.
a grand hotel when built in 1901; it’s a bit Rooms have an eclectic assortment of art
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
faded now but retains many elegant and de- and antiques, excellent beds and bath-
lightful decorative flourishes. The 28 rooms rooms, and come stocked with CD players,
have air-con and period furnishings; some bathrobes and sarongs. The American own-
overlook Parque Hidalgo. The bathroom in ers are very accommodating and have filled
the master suite has its own rocking chair. the elegant main house with an incredible
‘Touch under your own risk’ the antiques collection of antiques and objets d’art from
in the lobby. around the globe. All guests have access to
Hotel D’Champs (% 924-8655, 800-849-0934; the Internet and a huge CD library. Room
fax 923-6024; Calle 70 No 543 at Calle 67; d US$60; rates include a full, hot breakfast.
ais) Just a block from the two main Hotel Ambassador (%924-2100; fax 924-2701;
bus terminals, this place is in a classy old www.ambassadormerida.com; Calle 59 No 546; d/tr/ste
building with a modernized olive-green US$61/66/70; s) It offers 100 comfortable,
interior. It has a massive open courtyard modern rooms with satellite TV and mini-
with a pool and trees, a restaurant and 90 bars. The multistory building also has a
decent-sized rooms with TV, air-con and pool, a courtyard, a travel agency and car-
phones. WAN and Internet hookups are a rental outfit, but it’s a little institutional
recent addition. compared to the boutique alternatives. Try
Casa Mexilio (%/fax 928-2505, in USA %800-538- asking for a discount.
6802; www.casamexilio.com; Calle 68 No 495 btwn Calles
57 & 59; r US$47-120; as) It occupies a well- Top End
preserved, historic house with a maze of During nonpeak times, walk-in rates may
quiet, beautifully appointed rooms (some be cheaper than booking in advance. Ask
with fan, some air-con), a small bar and a about promociones or – even better – look
postage-stamp sized pool with Jacuzzi. All through local newspapers and handouts
room rates include a full breakfast in the for special rates. High-end hotels are
period dining room, and the hotel serves less likely to be full, compared with other
dinner as well. hotels.
Hotel Colonial (%923-6444; fax 928-3961, in USA Hotel Los Aluxes (% 924-2199, 800-712-0444;
888-886-2982; www.hotelcolonial.com.mx; Calle 62 No 476 fax 923-3858; www.aluxes.com.mx; cnr Calles 60 & 49;
btwn Calles 57 & 59; s or d/tr US$70/80; as) The d US$100; sip) The Los Aluxes is a very
Colonial features 73 comfortable rooms modern and comfortable hotel with 109
with air-con in a fairly modern building rooms, a pool, restaurant and nightclub;
with a small clover-shaped pool and per- it’s popular with tour groups. Parents will
haps Mexico’s smallest bar. ‘Promocion’ appreciate the baby-sitting service and kids’
(Promotion) rates can drop the prices by games area. A new Internet café and a de-
up to US$15. The restaurant actually has a cent bar round it off.
real posted nonsmoking section for those Hotel Casa del Balam (%924-2150, in USA or Mex-
who don’t like tar with their food. ico 800-624-8451; fax 924-5011; www.yucatanadventure
Hotel Maison Lafitte (%928-1243; www.maison .com.mx; Calle 60 No 488; d US$129; as) This
lafitte.com.mx; Calle 60 No 472; s/d/tr $70/75/80; s) place is centrally located and has a great
The Maison Lafitte offers a full buffet pool and large, quiet rooms with power-
breakfast in the rate, has friendly staff, and ful central air-con. The Balam often offers
a nice location – central but still away from hefty discounts during quiet times.
© Lonely Planet Publications
Book
w w waccommodations
. l o n e l y p l a n e online
t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • E a t i n g 165
Fiesta Americana Mérida (% 942-1111, 800- For good, cheap breakfasts, try a selec-
504-500, in the USA 800-343-7821; fax 942-1112; Calle tion of panes dulce (sweet rolls and breads)
56A No 451; d from US$180) An enormous, mod- from one of Mérida’s several bakeries, such
ern neocolonial hotel, it boasts luxurious, as Panificadora Montejo (Calle 62) on the corner
marble-floored rooms with safes, coffee- of the main plaza. A full bag of goodies usu-
makers, hairdryers and minibars. Also on ally costs no more than US$2.50.
offer are a gym, tennis court and spa, and La Flor de Santiago (%928-5591; Calle 70 btwn
a complex below the hotel houses shops, Calles 57 & 59; mains US$2-5; h7am-11pm) It offers a
travel agencies, airline offices and restau- cafeteria-style ambiance in a place with high
rants. Though the official address doesn’t ceilings and giant paintings on the walls.
indicate it, the hotel occupies a large stretch Chiapas coffee is served in incongruous,
of Avenida Colón just off swanky Paseo de chipped Willow-ware cups, with crooning
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
Montejo, north of the colonial center. tunes of yesteryear playing in the back-
Hyatt Regency Mérida (% 942-0202; fax 925- ground. The guacamole is near perfect, and
7002; www.hyatt.com; Av Colón 344; d from US$170; s) there is a wide selection of Mexican comfort
Not far from the Fiesta Americana. The foods, such as chicken tamales or turkey
17-story Hyatt is Mérida’s most expensive soup. A Saturday or Sunday breakfast buffet
hotel, offering 300 rooms, tennis courts, a costs US$4.50. It’s all good, and the friendly,
gym and steam bath, and a great pool with no-nonsense waiters are obliging.
swim-up bar. Capuchino (%924-3009; cnr Calle 47 & 66; cake slice
US$2; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) Don’t let
EATING the name fool you, there’s not a drop of
As in other touristed areas of the Yucatán coffee here. Instead, this 20-year-old insti-
Peninsula, many restaurants in Mérida have tution offers cheesecakes, whole or by the
begun adding a service charge (usually 10%) slice, in an array of funky flavors that may
to the bill. Check the menu carefully before include peach or even Kahlua. Stop by when
you order to see if this is official policy, and that sweet tooth gets the better of you.
put your money where their mouth is by El Trapiche (%928-1231; Calle 62 No 491 btwn
avoiding places where the waiters approach 59 & 61; mains US$1.60-5; h8am-midnight) A great
you with discounts or deals. Usually that’s place close to El Centro, El Trapiche has
the start of an unpleasant dinner, and many cheap Mexican eats in a casual environment
diners regret being sucked in. that includes passing visits by just about
every peddler around. As you eat, you can
Budget stock up on Cuban cigars or Chiapas belts
Mercado Municipal Lucas de Gálvez (cnr Calles 56A & or jewelry. If you don’t want to buy any-
67) Mérida’s least-expensive eateries are in thing and just want to eat, choose a table in
the Mercado Municipal Lucas de Gálvez; the back near the fountain. Pitchers of agua
most are open from early morning until de melon (cantaloupe blended with water
early evening. Upstairs joints have tables and a touch of sugar) cost only US$3.50, a
and chairs and more varied menus; main- fantastic deal.
course platters of beef, fish or chicken go for A few blocks east of the Plaza Grande
as little as US$1.20. Look for recados (spice are side-by-side supermarkets (Calle 56 btwn Calles
pastes). Downstairs at the north end are 63 & 65) as well as a branch of Super Bodega
some cheap taquerías (taco joints), where (cnr Calles 67 & 54A), a market-department store
you sit on a stool at a narrow counter, while chain.
near the south end are coctelerías serving
shrimp, octopus and conch cocktails and Midrange
ceviche starting at around US$2. Il Caffé Italiano (%928-0093; Calle 57A btwn Calles 58
Mercado Municipal No 2 (Calle 57) A less & 60; mains US$7-13; h8am-midnight Mon-Sat) It’s an
crowded, but still cheap and good market is Italian-style café with nice espressos, good
Mercado Municipal No 2 on the north side mains, and very interesting desserts: the
of Parque de Santiago, packed with juice strawberries with balsamic vinegar and ice
stalls, loncherías (simple restaurant often cream is something completely different.
only open for lunch) and even a cheap ice- The lattes are as fun to watch being made
cream place. as to drink, it’s quite a performance.
© Lonely Planet Publications
166 M É R I D A • • D r i n k i n g www.lonelyplanet.com
La Vía Olimpo (%923-5843; Calle 62 btwn Calles There are a few meat offerings for nonfishy
61 & 63; breakfast US$5, mains US$4-12; h7am-11pm) types. The service is friendly and attentive,
An upscale and trendy restaurant-café on if almost formal at times. The family that
the west side of the Plaza Grande. Among runs the place lives next door and may open
the choices are salads, sandwiches, steaks up in the evening if you phone before com-
and breakfasts. ing over.
Pop Cafetería (%928-6163; Calle 57 btwn Calles 60
& 62; breakfast US$2.60-4.50, mains US$3.50-9; h7am- Top End
midnight Mon-Sat, 8am-midnight Sun) It may be plain Restaurante Pórtico del Peregrino (%928-6163;
to look at, but the air-con works a treat. The Calle 57 btwn Calles 60 & 62; mains US$8-14; hnoon-mid-
restaurant serves up cheap breakfast com- night) Several pleasant, traditional-style din-
binations and a good variety of Mexican ing rooms (some with air-con) surrounding
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
dishes; try the chicken in dark, rich mole a small courtyard. Yucatecan dishes such
(US$4.50). as pollo pibil (chicken flavored with achi-
Main Street (%923-6850; Calle 60 btwn Calles 59 & ote sauce, wrapped in banana leaves) are
61; breakfast US$3.50-6, mains US$8-13; h7am-11pm) its forte, but you’ll find many international
On the edge of Parque Hidalgo, it serves dishes and a broad range of seafood and
generous, reasonably priced breakfasts, as steaks as well. Mole poblano, a chocolate
well as ample portions of pasta and other and chili sauce, is a house specialty as is
dishes, including mediocre pizza. The out- queso relleno (Dutch cheese stuffed with
door tables offer prime people-watching spiced ground beef).
opportunities, and guarantee you’ll be tar- Alberto’s Continental Patio (%928-5367; cnr
geted by hammock vendors. Calles 64 & 57; mains US$7-16, set dinners US$24-28;
Amaro (%928-2451; www.restauranteamaro.com; h 1pm-11pm Mon-Sat, 6pm-11pm Sun) Alberto’s
Calle 59 btwn Calles 60 & 62; mains US$5-9; h11am- offers yet more colonial-courtyard (as well
1am, or 11pm if it’s slow) The Amaro is a roman- as indoor) dining. The setting is extremely
tic dining spot, especially at night, when atmospheric, chock-a-block with religious
there’s usually a duo performing ballads. artifacts, Maya ceramic figures and green-
It is set in the courtyard of the house in ery, with cards in several languages describ-
which Andrés Quintana Roo – poet, states- ing the history of the house. Middle Eastern
man and drafter of Mexico’s Declaration dishes such as hummus, babaganoush and
of Independence – was born in 1787. The tabbouleh are served with pita bread, and
service and food are good (but check your can be a welcome change from Mexican
bill carefully), and the menu includes Yu- food. The steaks, poultry and seafood
catecan dishes and a variety of vegetarian are also good, as is the service. Tipplers
plates, as well as some continental dishes, will appreciate the fine brandy selection.
crepes and pizzas. Mmmm!
Pane e Vino (%928-6228; Calle 62 btwn Calles 59
& 61; mains US$7-10; h6pm-midnight Tue-Sun) It’s DRINKING
an Italian-run place serving tasty antipasti It’s impossible not to find a beer or bar
and salads (with olive oil and balsamic vin- in Mérida; if you’re really desperate, ask
egar if you wish), lasagna, fish, meat and a anyone on the street to point the way to
selection of respectable wines by the glass a nearby watering hole. Most of the res-
or bottle. The star attractions are the fresh taurants listed earlier serve drinks or have
handmade pastas, which vary daily and their own bars.
usually include gnocchi, ravioli, and fet- KY60 (Calle 60 btwn Calles 57 & 55; no cover; h9pm-
tuccine. The scanty glasses of wine are the 3am) Despite the men-wearing-construction-
only real disappointment. outfits Village People vibe, this is not a gay
Restaurante Kantún (%923-4493; Calle 45 btwn bar. It’s got nice pool tables and is popu-
Calles 64 & 66; mains US$6-14; h noon-7pm) The lar with guys and gals, gays and straights,
Kantún serves some of the best seafood in locals and tourists, probably because of its
town. Main dishes are all prepared to order reasonably priced beers, which seem to be
and delicately seasoned or sauced; try the fi- a universal attraction.
lete Normanda, a fillet stuffed with smoked People not needing something alcoholic
oysters and topped with anchovies (US$9). can try:
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t 167
Jugos California (%923-4142; Calle 63 No 502; During the last days of February or the
juices US$1.10-2.50; h7am-10pm) On the corner beginning of March (the dates vary) is Kihuic,
next to the bread shop Panificadora Mon- a market that fills the Plaza Grande with
tejo, this cheery yellow-and-blue tiled place handicraft artisans from all over Mexico.
offers great fresh juices and smoothies, Mérida’s main market, Mercado Municipal
served with friendly smiles. Lucas de Gálvez (cnr Calles 56A & 67), will evolve
El Hoyo (% 928-1531; Calle 62 No 487; coffees and change as a new building is built out
US$1.60-2.50; h8am-11:30pm Mon-Sat) This is the the back, but whatever happens, the sur-
best place for cheap espressos and lattes, rounding streets are all part of the large
plus chessboards and books if you want to market district, lined with shops selling
hang out. A small courtyard at the back has everything one might want. Watch for pick-
beautiful tile work. The Nutella crepe is a pockets, purse-snatchers and bag-slashers.
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
unique specialty. The crush of people around Christmas and
other busy periods can be intense.
ENTERTAINMENT
Mérida offers many folkloric and musical Handicrafts
events in parks and historic buildings, put Casa de las Artesanías (%928-6676; Calle 63 btwn
on by local performers of considerable skill. Calles 64 & 66; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)
Admission is free except as noted. Check One place to start looking for handicrafts
with one of the tourist information offices is this government-supported market for
to confirm schedules and find out about local artisans selling just about everything:
special events; www.Yucatántoday.com earthenware, textiles, wicker baskets, san-
offers monthly news and often highlights dals, vases, ceramic dolls, wind chimes,
seasonal events. purses and pouches, figurines of Maya
The Centro Cultural Olimpo (%928-2020 ext deities and bottles of locally made liqueurs.
477; cnr Calles 62 & 61) has something on nearly Prices are fixed and a bit high.
every night, from films to concerts to art Artesanías Bazar García Rejón (cnr Calles 65 &
installations. 60) Concentrates a wide variety of products
Mérida has several cinemas, most of which into one area of shops.
show first-run Hollywood fare in English, Miniaturas (%928-6503; Calle 59 btwn Calles 60 &
with Spanish subtitles (ask ‘¿inglés?’ if you 62; h10am-2pm & 4-8pm) Here you’ll find lots of
need to be sure), as well as other foreign small Día de los Muertos tableaux, tinwork
films and Mexican offerings. Cinema tick- and figurines of every sort, from ceramics
ets cost about US$4.50 for evening shows, to toy soldiers. They all have one thing in
US$2.50 for matinees. Try Cines Rex (Calle 57 common: they’re easy to pack! The store is
btwn Calles 70 & 72), located on the north side of definitely fun to browse and prices are fixed
Parque de Santiago’s market. It’s a modern at a fair rate so you needn’t worry about
twin theater showing first-run films. Teatro bargaining. Its hours are ‘más o menos’
Mérida (Calle 62 btwn Calles 59 & 61) often shows (‘more or less’), according to the sign.
classic Hollywood and international flicks.
Azul Picante (%923-2279; Calle 60 btwn Calles 57 & Clothing & Panama Hats
55; US$3 cover; h10pm-3:30am) is one of a cluster Camisería Canul (%923-5661; Calle 62 btwn Calles
of bars on this block that have music and 57 & 59; h8:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) A
dancing, with a live nine-piece salsa band good place for guayaberas and huipiles. It
most nights. The crowd is fairly young, has been in business for years, offers fixed
with a mix of locals and visitors. prices and does custom tailoring.
The Campeche town of Bécal is the center
SHOPPING of the hat-weaving trade (see p222), but you
Mérida is a fine place for buying Yucatecan can buy good examples of the hatmaker’s
handicrafts. Purchases to consider include art in Mérida.
guayaberas and traditional Maya clothing Prices range from a few dollars for a hat
such as the colorful, embroidered huipiles, of basic quality to US$80 or more for top
panama hats and of course the wonder- quality. The Casa de las Artesanías has only
fully comfortable Yucatecan hammocks very low-quality examples; the Bazar García
(see p168). Rejón is a much better bet.
© Lonely Planet Publications
The fine strings of Yucatecan hammocks make them supremely comfortable. In the sticky heat of
a Yucatán summer, most locals prefer sleeping in a hammock, where the air can circulate around
them, rather than in a bed. Many inexpensive hotels used to have hammock hooks in the walls
of all guestrooms; many still do.
Yucatecan hammocks are normally woven from strong nylon or cotton string and dyed in
various colors. There are also natural, undyed cotton versions. Some sellers will try to fob these
off as henequen (also called sisal) or jute, telling you it’s much more durable (and valuable) than
cotton, and even that it repels mosquitoes. Don’t be taken in; real henequen hammocks are very
rough and not something you’d want near your skin. Silk hammocks are no longer made, but a
silk-rayon blend has a similar feel.
Hammocks come in several widths (each shop seems to have slightly different names and
numbers for them), and though much is made of the quantity of pairs of end strings they pos-
sess, a better gauge of a hammock’s size and quality is its weight. The heavier the better. A
sencilla (for one person) should be about 500g and cost about US$12. The doble is about 700g
to 800g and costs roughly US$15 to US$17. Next comes the matrimonial at 1100g (US$20), and
familiar (up to about 1500g, US$27). They go beyond this, to extra, king and other designations.
De croché (very tightly woven) hammocks can take several weeks to produce and cost double
or triple the prices given here.
When selecting a hammock, you must check to be sure that you’re really getting the width
you’re paying for. Because they fold up small and the larger hammocks are more comfortable,
consider the bigger sizes. A good store will let you do more than just look; if you ask ‘¿puedo
probar?’ they’ll string it up and let you have a lie-down. Check carefully for pulled threads and
the overall evenness of the weave.
Never hang your hammock directly by its loops as they will eventually wear through, so
be sure to purchase brasas (connecting ropes) and eses (S-hooks). Many stores can also sell
mosquito netting for an additional US$15. And before you leave, ask them to show you how
to fold it – only fishing line takes longer to untangle.
During your first few hours in Mérida you will be approached on the street by hammock ped-
dlers. They may quote very low prices, but street-sold hammocks are usually mediocre at best.
Check the hammock very carefully. You can look like a pro by counting the runner threads at
the edges: a good hammock has at least 10 on each side.
You can save yourself a lot of trouble by shopping at a hammock store with a good repu-
tation. Getting away from the heavily touristed areas helps. In Mérida, Hamacas El Aguacate
(%928-6469; cnr Calles 58 & 73) has quality hammocks and decent prices, and there’s absolutely no
hard sell. In Quintana Roo, check out Puerto Morelos’ artisans market (p97), where high-quality
Tixkokob hammocks are sold.
Some of the best (and best-priced) hammocks are produced in prisons, but a less-depressing
excursion is to venture out to the nearby village of Tixkokob to watch hammocks being woven.
Sharpies here are on the lookout for tourists and you need to use the same caution in buying
that you would in downtown Mérida. The senora at Hamacas El Gallito (%999-996-5612; cnr Calles
21 & 14; h10am-8pm) is very helpful, though she doesn’t speak English. A bus runs regularly from
the Progreso bus station in Mérida, Calle 62 No 524, between Calles 65 and 67.
© Lonely Planet Publications
Aeroméxico (at airport%920-1260, at Hotel Fiesta service, with air-con and few stops, but no bathroom
Americana 237-1786) Flies to Mexico City, Los Angeles and the deluxe lines ADO GL, Maya de Oro, UNO and
and Miami. Super Expresso. CAME has card phones and an ATM and
Aviacsa (%800-006-2200, at airport 946-1850, at Hotel runs counters for tourist, bus and hotel information.
Fiesta Americana 925-6890) Flies to Mexico City. The baggage check is open 6am to midnight daily and
Click (%928-6790; Paseo de Montejo 500B) Flies charges US$0.50 for storage from 6am to noon, US$1
between Mérida and Cancún, Veracruz and Villahermosa, for all day.
with connections to Tuxtla Gutiérrez, Havana and other Terminal de Segunda Clase (Calle 69) Also known as
destinations. Terminal 69 (Sesenta y Nueve) or simply Terminal de Auto-
Continental Airlines (%800-900-5000; Paseo Mon- buses, this terminal is located just around the corner from
tejo No 437 at Calle 29) Flies nonstop between Houston CAME. ADO, Mayab, Oriente, Sur, and TRT run mostly 2nd-
and Mérida. class buses to points in the state and around the peninsula.
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
Delta (%800-123-4710; reservations toll free in USA; The terminal has a luggage checkroom (h7am-11pm;
www.delta.com) US$0.40 to US$1.10 per bag per hour).
Mexicana (%924-6910; Paseo de Montejo 493) Terminal Noreste (Calle 67 btwn Calles 50 & 52) LUS,
Nonstop flights to Mexico City. Occidente and Oriente use the Noreste bus line’s terminal.
Destinations served from here include many small towns
Bus in the northeast part of the peninsula, including Tizimín
Mérida is the bus transportation hub of the and Río Lagartos; frequent services to Cancún and points
Yucatán Peninsula. Take care with your gear along the way; as well as small towns south and west of
on night buses and those serving popular Mérida, including Celestún (served by Occidente), Ticul and
tourist destinations (especially 2nd-class Oxkutzcab. Some Oriente buses depart from Terminal 69
buses); we have received many reports of and stop here; others leave directly from here (eg those to
theft on the night runs to Chiapas and of a Izamal and Tizimín).
few daylight thefts on the Chichén Itzá and
other routes. Car
There are a number of bus terminals, The most flexible way to tour the many
and some lines operate out of (and stop at) archaeological sites around Mérida is by
more than one terminal. Tickets for depart- rental car, especially if you have two or
ure from one terminal can often be bought more people to share costs. Assume you
at another, and destinations overlap greatly will pay a total of US$45 to US$65 per
among lines. Some lines offer round-trip day (tax, insurance and gas included) for
tickets to nearby towns that bring the fare short-term rental of a cheap car, usually a
down quite a bit. Following are some of bottom-of-the-line Volkswagen or Nissan.
the terminals, the bus lines operating out Getting around Mérida’s sprawling tangle
of them and areas served. of one-way streets and careening buses is
Hotel Fiesta Americana (Av Colón near Calle 56A) A better done on foot or on a careening bus,
small 1st-class terminal on the west side of the hotel com- though.
plex servicing guests of the luxury hotels on Avenida Colón, México Rent A Car (%923-3637; mexicorentacar@
north of the center. ADO GL and Super Expresso services hotmail.com; Calle 57A btwn Calles 58 & 60; h8am-
run between here and Cancún, Campeche, Chetumal and 12:30pm & 6-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-12:30pm Sun) offers
Playa del Carmen. rates the big-name agencies often can’t
Parque de San Juan (Calle 69 btwn Calles 62 & 64) touch, especially if you’re paying cash. In
From all around the square and church, vans and combis low season it’s sometimes possible to get
(vans or minibuses) depart for Dzibilchaltún Ruinas, Muna, a vehicle for as little as US$30 a day, and
Oxkutzcab, Tekax, Ticul and other points. long-term rentals can bring prices lower
Progreso (Calle 62 No 524 btwn Calles 65 & 67) Progreso than that, even on higher-quality cars.
has a separate bus terminal here, serving Progreso. Several other agencies have branches at
Terminal CAME (reservations %924-8391; Calle the airport as well as on Calle 60 between
70 btwn Calles 69 & 71) Sometimes referred to as the Calles 55 and 57, including Budget (%928-
‘Terminal de Primera Clase,’ Mérida’s main terminal has 6759, 800-712-0324), Avis (%925-2525) and Hertz
(mostly 1st-class) buses to points around the Yucatán (%924-2834, 800-709-5000). All rent for about
Peninsula and places such as Campeche, Mexico City, US$50 a day.
Palenque, San Cristóbal de Las Casas and Villahermosa. See p82 for details of the expensive toll
Lines include ADO, Altos (providing directo económico highway between Mérida and Cancún.
© Lonely Planet Publications
170 M É R I D A • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com
www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • H a c i e n d a Ya x c o p o i l 171
foot. Given the slow speed of city traffic, buildings have undergone picturesque
particularly in the market areas, travel on restorations and turned into a museum of
foot is also the fastest way to get around. the 17th century. It offers some excellent
City buses are cheap at US$0.40, but glimpses at the (now defunct) giant rasping
routes can be confusing. Most start in sub- machines that turned the leaves into fiber.
urban neighborhoods, skirt the city center, Frequent buses pass Yaxcopoil running be-
and terminate in another distant suburban tween Mérida and Ticul, but it’s easiest to
neighborhood. To travel between the Plaza drive there.
Grande and the upscale neighborhoods to
the north along Paseo de Montejo, catch the HACIENDA OCHIL
Ruta 10 on Calle 57 between Calles 58 and This hacienda (%999-950-1275; Hwy 261 Km 176;
60, a block north of the Parque Hidalgo, admission US$2; h 9am-6pm) lies about 44km
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
or catch a ‘Tecnológico,’ ‘Hyatt’ or ‘Mon- south of Mérida and provides a fascinat-
tejo’ bus on Calle 60 and get out at Avenida ing, though basic, look at how henequen
Colón. To return to the city center, catch was grown and processed. From the park-
any bus heading south on Paseo de Montejo ing lot follow the ‘truck’ tracks – used by
displaying the same signs and/or ‘Centro.’ the small wheeled carts to haul material to
Many will let you off on Calle 58 north of and from the processing plant – to the right
Calle 61. around the parklike, restored portion of the
hacienda. You’ll pass workshops where you
Taxi might see locals fashioning handicrafts for
Taxis in Mérida are not metered. Rates are sale and a small henequen museum with ex-
fixed, with a US$3 minimum fare, which hibits illustrating the cultivating, harvesting
will get you from the bus terminals to all and processing of the plant. These include
downtown hotels. Most rides within city pieces of machinery and photos of hacienda
limits do not exceed US$6. Taxi stands can life. Iguanas abound.
be found at most of the barrio parks, or The casa de máquinas (machine house)
dial %928-5322 or %923-1221; service and smokestack still stand, and Ochil also
is available 24 hours (dispatch fees are an has a restaurant (mains US$8-10), bar, a small
extra US$1 to US$2). cenote and a henequen patch. Mayab runs
2nd-class buses between Mérida and Muna
that will drop you at Ochil’s parking lot
SOUTH OF MÉRIDA (US$2.50, one hour).
172 S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • O x k i n t o k www.lonelyplanet.com
PYRAMID SCHEME
It’s tempting to skirt the (often unpoliced) signs that prohibit climbing, but please climb only
where climbing is allowed. You should always wear snug footwear with good traction when
you climb.
Be careful, and if you’re worried about heights give this sure-fire technique a try: zigzag up the
steps, making diagonal passes to either side of the stairway. This is an especially useful method
if your feet are too large for the shallow steps. It works well on the descent, also, as it prevents
you from looking straight down (a view that can be quite vertiginous and unnerving).
Once you master this style, you’ll never descend again using the embarrassing sit-and-bump-
down-on-your-butt method, or the painful trip-and-fall-to-your-near-death method, which is why
most of the pyramids are closed to climbing.
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
the bottom (some visitors wear dust masks the most interesting structure is Palacio Chich
to avoid infection from a fungus on the (Estructura Ca-7), in the Ah-Canul group,
guano). There’s nothing to stop you from for its original stonework and the two col-
exploring on your own (and possibly get- umns in front carved with human figures
ting lost), but you’d be wise to employ one in elaborate dress. Recently researchers dis-
of the six guides, all members of the Cuy covered a labyrinth beneath La Pyrámide,
family, whose great grandfather rediscov- which unfortunately is closed to the public.
ered the caves in 1840. They carry lanterns You can see the blocked off entrance quite
and flashlights. clearly from the (facing the front) right
You can opt for a basic tour or an ad- side, about halfway up.
venture package – one that involves belly- The ruins are reached by road by taking a
crawling, rope descents to see human west-leading fork off the road to the Grutas
skeletons, and possibly the 7m long by de Calcehtok; for information on getting to
20cm wide ‘Pass of Death,’ or ‘El Parto’ the Grutas de Calcehtok, see p171.
(The Birth: you figure it out). Tours last
one to six hours and cost from US$20 for UXMAL
four people. Wear sturdy shoes. Pronounced oosh-mahl, Uxmal (admission
The caves are 75km southwest of Mérida US$9.50 Mon-Sat, US$5 Sun & holidays, guides US$40;
off Hwy 184, a few kilometers south of the h8am-5pm) is one impressive set of ruins,
town of Calcehtok. They are best reached easily ranking among the top Maya archae-
by car. ological sites. It is a large site with some
fascinating structures in good condition
OXKINTOK and bearing a riot of ornamentation. Add-
Archaeologists have been excited about ing to its appeal is Uxmal’s setting in the
the ruins of Oxkintok (admission US$3; h8am- hilly Puuc region, which lent its name to
5pm) for several years. Inscriptions found at the architectural patterns in this area. Puuc
the site contain some of the oldest known means ‘hills,’ and these, rising up to about
dates in the Yucatán, and indicate the city 100m, are the first relief from the flatness
was inhabited from the pre-Classic to the of the northern and western portions of
post-Classic period (300 BC to AD 1500), the peninsula.
reaching its greatest importance between
AD 475 and 860. History
Three main groups of the approximately Uxmal was an important city in a region
8-sq-km site have been restored thus far, that encompassed the satellite towns of
all near the site entrance. Though much Sayil, Kabah, Xlapak and Labná. Although
of the rebuilding work looks like it was Uxmal means ‘Thrice Built’ in Maya, it was
done with rubble, you can see examples of actually constructed five times.
Oxkintok, Proto-Puuc and Puuc architec- That a sizable population flourished in
ture. The highest structure (15m) is Ma-1, this dry area is yet more testimony to the
La Pirámide, in the Ah-May group, which engineering skills of the Maya, who built
provides good views of the area. Probably a series of reservoirs and chultunes (Maya
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • U x m a l 173
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
Chenes styles. ered in the final rebuilding by the Maya,
The scarcity of water in the region meant except for the high doorway on the west
that Chac, the rain god or sky serpent, side, which remains from the fourth tem-
carried a lot of weight here. His image is ple. Decorated in elaborate Chenes style
ubiquitous at the site in the form of stucco (a style that originated further south), the
masks protruding from façades and cor- doorway proper forms the mouth of a gi-
nices. There is much speculation as to why gantic Chac mask.
Uxmal was abandoned in about AD 900; a Climbing the temple was not allowed
severe drought may have forced the inhab- when we visited.
itants to relocate.
Rediscovered by archaeologists in the CUADRÁNGULO DE LAS MONJAS
19th century, Uxmal was first excavated in The 74-room, sprawling Nuns’ Quadrangle
1929 by Frans Blom. Although much has is directly west of the Casa del Adivino.
been restored, there is still a good deal to Archaeologists guess variously that it was
discover. a military academy, royal school or palace
complex. The long-nosed face of Chac ap-
Information pears everywhere on the façades of the four
Parking costs US$1 per car; unlike Chichén separate temples that form the quadrangle.
Itzá, you have to pay this fee again if you The northern temple, grandest of the four,
leave and want to return for the light show. was built first, followed by the southern,
The site is entered through the modern then the eastern and then the western.
Unidad Uxmal building, which holds an Several decorative elements on the
air-conditioned restaurant, a small mu- exuberant façades show signs of Mexi-
seum, shops selling souvenirs and crafts, can, perhaps Totonac, influence. The fea-
an auditorium, bathrooms, an ATM and thered-serpent (Quetzalcóatl, or in Maya,
a left-luggage facility. Also here is Librería Kukulcán) motif along the top of the west
Dante, a bookstore that stocks an excellent temple’s façade is one of these. Note also
selection of travel and archaeological guides the stylized depictions of the na (trad-
and general-interest books on Mexico in itional Maya thatched hut) over some of
English, Spanish, German and French; the the doorways in the northern and south-
imported books are very expensive. ern buildings. Take plenty of time to look
The price of admission, if you retain around here; the amount of detail is almost
the wristband-ticket, includes a 45-minute overwhelming.
sound-and-light show, beginning nightly at Passing through the corbeled arch in the
8pm in summer and 7pm in winter. It’s middle of the south building of the quad-
in Spanish, but you can rent devices for rangle and continuing down the slope takes
listening to English, French, German or you through the Juego de Pelota (ball court).
Italian translations (beamed via infrared) From here you can turn left and head up the
for US$3. Specify the language you need steep slope and stairs to the large terrace.
or it may not be broadcast. The cost for If you’ve got time, you could instead turn
the show only is US$5, which can count right to explore the western Grupo del Ce-
toward the next day’s admission if you keep menterio (which, though largely unrestored,
the receipt. holds some interesting square blocks carved
© Lonely Planet Publications
174 S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • U x m a l www.lonelyplanet.com
UXMAL 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
To Mérida
Grupo
del Norte Hotel
Hacienda
Uxmal
MEX
261
The Lodge
at Uxmal
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
Cuadrángulo
de las Monjas
Unidad
Juego Uxmal
de Pelota
Temple
Casa de
las Tortugas
El Palomar
Palacio del
Grupo Gobernador
del Oeste
rubble
Stone
Gran Phalluses
Pirámide
(Templo
Mayor) Rd
Templo del Sur Simon
San
Casa de
la Vieja
with skulls in the center of its plaza), then PALACIO DEL GOBERNADOR
head for the stairs and terrace. The Governor’s Palace, with its magnifi-
cent façade nearly 100m long, has been
CASA DE LAS TORTUGAS called ‘the finest structure at Uxmal and the
To the right at the top of the stairs is the culmination of the Puuc style’ by Mayanist
House of the Turtles, which takes its name Michael D Coe. The buildings have walls
from the turtles carved on the cornice. The filled with rubble, faced with cement and
Maya associated turtles with the rain god, then covered in a thin veneer of limestone
Chac. According to Maya myth, when the squares; the lower part of the façade is plain,
people suffered from drought so did the tur- the upper part festooned with stylized Chac
tles, and both prayed to Chac to send rain. faces and geometric designs, often latticelike
The frieze of short columns, or ‘rolled or fretted. Other elements of Puuc style are
mats,’ that runs around the temple below decorated cornices, rows of half-columns
the turtles is characteristic of the Puuc style. (as in the House of the Turtles) and round
On the west side of the building a vault columns in doorways (as in the palace at
has collapsed, affording a good view of the Sayil). Stones forming the corbeled vaults in
corbeled arch that supported it. Puuc style are shaped somewhat like boots.
© Lonely Planet Publications
Book
w w waccommodations
. l o n e l y p l a n e online
t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • U x m a l 175
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
The 32m-high pyramid has been restored Hotel Villas Arqueológicas Uxmal (%/fax 997-
only on its northern side. Archaeologists 974-6020, 800-514-8244, in the USA 800-258-2633; villa
theorize that the quadrangle at its summit [email protected]; d US$82; as) This is
was largely destroyed in order to construct an attractive Club Med–run hotel not far
another pyramid above it. That work, for from the ruins entrance. It has a swim-
reasons unknown, was never completed. At ming pool, tennis courts, a restaurant and
the top are some stucco carvings of Chac, guestrooms with air-con.
birds and flowers. Hotel Hacienda Uxmal (% 997-976-2012, in
the USA 800-235-4079; www.mayaland.com; d with air-
EL PALOMAR con May-Oct US$138, Nov-Apr US$148, ste US$285-345;
West of the Great Pyramid sits a structure as) This Mayaland Resort is 500m from
whose roofcomb is latticed with a pattern the ruins. It housed the archaeologists who
reminiscent of the Moorish pigeon houses explored and restored Uxmal. Wide, tiled
built into walls in Spain and northern Af- verandas, high ceilings, great bathrooms
rica – hence the building’s name, which and a beautiful swimming pool make this
means the Dovecote or Pigeon House. The a very comfortable place to stay.
nine honeycombed triangular ‘belfries’ sit The Lodge at Uxmal (%997-976-2010, in the USA
on top of a building that was once part of 800-235-4079; www.mayaland.com; s/d May-Oct US$183-
a quadrangle. The base is so eroded that 279, Nov-Apr US$266-334; sa) Mayaland Re-
it is hard for archaeologists to guess its sort’s lodge is Uxmal’s newest and most
function. luxurious hotel. Rooms have two queens
or one king bed, a minibar, coffeemaker
CASA DE LA VIEJA and great bathrooms. Some have stained-
Off the southeast corner of the Palacio del glass windows and other pretty touches.
Gobernador’s platform is a small complex, The hotel offers meal plans and has two
largely rubble, known as the Casa de la pools and a restaurant-bar. Walk-in rates
Vieja (Old Woman’s House). In front of are sometimes lower than the official rates
it is a small palapa (thatched-roof shelter) quoted here. It’s just opposite the entrance
sheltering several large phalluses carved to the archaeological site.
from stone. Don’t get any ideas; the sign
here reads ‘Do not sit.’ Getting There & Away
Uxmal is 80km from Mérida. Most buses
Tours plying the inland route between Mérida and
ATS buses depart Mérida’s Terminal de Campeche will drop you off at Uxmal, Santa
Segunda Clase at 8am on a whirlwind ex- Elena, Kabah or the Ruta Puuc turnoff. But
cursion to the Ruta Puuc sites (see p177) when you want to leave, passing buses
plus Kabah and Uxmal, heading back from may be full (especially on Saturday and
Uxmal’s parking lot at 2:30pm. This ‘tour’ is Monday).
transportation only; you pay all other costs. If you’re going from Uxmal to Ticul, first
The time spent at each site is enough to take a northbound bus to Muna (US$0.50,
get only a brief acquaintance, though some 20 minutes) then catch one of the frequent
say the two hours at Uxmal is sufficient, if buses from there to Ticul (US$0.80, 30
barely. The cost is US$10 for the whole deal, minutes).
© Lonely Planet Publications
176 S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • S a n t a E l e n a www.lonelyplanet.com
garden here and friendly iguanas roaming On entering, head to your right to climb
the premises. All rooms have fans, good the stairs of the structure closest to the
screens and good beds. The Sacbé is also highway, El Palacio de los Mascarones (Palace
convenient to the Ruta Puuc ruins, and the of Masks). Standing in front of it is the
friendly owners speak French, English and Altar de los Glifos, whose immediate area
Spanish, and serve good, cheap breakfasts is littered with many stones carved with
and dinners (with vegetarian options). To glyphs. The palace’s façade is an amazing
get here, ask the bus driver to drop you off sight, covered in nearly 300 masks of Chac,
at the campo de béisbol (baseball field) de the rain god or sky serpent. Most of their
Santa Elena. It’s about 200m south of the huge curling noses are broken off; the best
town’s southern entrance. Each room has intact beaks are at the building’s southern
an excellent book with information about end. These noses may have given the palace
local activities (including the ruins), and its modern Maya name, Codz Poop (Rolled
even lists of birds you’re likely to see dur- Mat; it’s pronounced more like ‘Codes
ing your stay. Pope’ than some Elizabethan curse).
Flycatcher Inn (www.flycatcherinn.com; d US$40- When you’ve had your fill of noses, head
60, ste US$70) It features four squeaky-clean north and around to the back of the Poop
rooms and an enormous master suite. All to check out the two restored atlantes (an
have terraces, supercomfy imported beds atlas – plural ‘atlantes’ – is a male figure
(two queens in doubles, a king in the suite) used as a supporting column). These are
plus hammocks, excellent screenage and especially interesting, as they’re some of a
great bathrooms – those in the suites are very few three-dimensional human figures
done in marble quarried from nearby Ticul. you’ll see at the Maya sites covered in this
Breakfast, included in the room rates, con-
sists of homemade breads, tropical fruit KABAH 0 50 m (Approx)
and tea or coffee. The owners, a local Maya To Santa Elena (6km);
and his American wife, have kept most of Gran
Pirámide
Uxmal (14km);
Mérida (65km)
the five hectares of land around the inn Templo MEX
Mayor 261
undeveloped, and a number of bird and
animal species can be seen here, including El Arco
Office
the flycatchers that gave their name to the To El
Templo de
las Columnas
place. The inn’s driveway is less than 100m Cuadrángulo
del Oeste
north of Santa Elena’s southern entrance;
El Palacio
there’s a bus stop just across the highway
from it, near Restaurant El Chac-Mool.
Restaurant El Chac-Mool (% 999-996-2025; Pirámide de
los Mascarones
mains US$5-8; h8am-9pm) On Hwy 261 at the
southern entrance to Santa Elena, this is a Atlantes
La Casa
friendly place serving Yucatecan food that de las Brujas
includes a hearty vegetarian plate of rice,
beans, and fried bananas. A new 2nd-floor MEX
261
To Sayil (6km); El Palacio
seating area was scheduled to open by the Ruta Puuc (7km); de los Mascarones
Campeche (140km) (Codz Pop)
time this book goes to print.
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • R u t a Pu u c 177
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
the groups of decorative columnillas (little During the busy winter season it’s often
columns) on the upper part of the façade are possible to hitch rides from one site to the
characteristic of the Puuc architectural style. next, the best way to appreciate the sites is
Steps on the north side of El Palacio’s by rented car or taxi, especially if you plan
plaza put you on a path leading about 200m on taking time at each site.
through the jungle to the Templo de las Colum-
nas (watch out for the ‘tourist trap’ on the Sayil
way – a person-sized hole in the middle of The ruins of Sayil (admission US$3; h8am-5pm)
the pathway). This building has more rows are 4.5km from the junction of the Ruta
of decorative columns on the upper part Puuc with Hwy 261.
of its façade. Sayil is best known for El Palacio, the huge
West of El Palacio, across the highway, three-tiered building with a façade some
a path leads up the slope and passes to the 85m long and reminiscent of the Minoan
south of a high mound of stones that was palace on Crete. The distinctive columns
once the Gran Pirámide (Great Pyramid). The of Puuc architecture are used here over
path curves to the right and comes to a and over, either as supports for the lintels,
large restored monumental arch. It’s said that as decoration between doorways, and as a
the sacbé, or cobbled and elevated ceremo- frieze above them, alternating with huge
nial road, leading from here goes through stylized Chac masks and ‘descending gods.’
the jungle all the way to Uxmal, terminating Ascending the palacio beyond its first level
at a smaller arch; in the other direction it is not allowed.
goes to Labná. Once, all of the Yucatán Pen- Taking the path south from the palace for
insula was connected by these marvelous about 400m and bearing left, you come to
‘white roads’ of rough limestone. the temple named El Mirador, whose rooster-
At present, nothing of the sacbé is visible, like roofcomb was once painted a bright
and the rest of the area west of the highway red. About 100m beyond El Mirador, be-
is a maze of unmarked, overgrown paths neath a protective palapa, is a stela bearing
leading off into the jungle. the relief of a fertility god with an enormous
There’s good, affordable lodging about phallus, now sadly weathered.
8km north of Kabah at Bungalows Sacbé Grupo Sur is a bit further, and offers
and the Flycatcher Inn; for more details, beautifully jungle-covered ruins with tree
see opposite. roots twisting through the walls.
178 S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • G r u t a s d e L o l t ú n www.lonelyplanet.com
ὄὄὄ
If you’re short on time, Labná (admission US$3; Tr
ail
Sacbé
and if no-one has been through before you
bé
ὄὄὄ
(Cerem
for a while, at each doorway you approach
Sac
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
onial Rd)
mot-mots into flight. Between the birds and
the vegetation growing atop the palacio,
you can almost imagine yourself one of the El Arco
El Mirador
www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • R u i n a s d e M a y a p á n 179
ago. Chest-high murals of hands, faces, ani- the place to themselves. It is one of few
mals and geometric motifs were apparent as sites where you can ascend to the top of the
recently as 20 years ago, but so many people pyramid for a nice view.
have touched them that scarcely a trace re- Don’t confuse the ruins of Mayapán with
mains, though some handprints have been the Maya village of the same name, some
restored. A few pots are displayed in a niche, 40km southeast of the ruins, past the town
and an impressive bas-relief, El Guerrero, of Teabo.
guards the entrance. Other than that, you’ll
mostly see floodlit limestone formations, or History
the poorly aimed floodlights shining into Mayapán was supposedly founded by Ku-
your eyes. kulcán (Quetzalcóatl) in 1007, shortly after
To explore the labyrinth, you must take the former ruler of Tula arrived in Yuca-
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
a scheduled guided tour at 9:30am, 11am, tán. His dynasty, the Cocom, organized a
12:30pm, 2pm, 3pm or 4pm, but they may confederation of city-states that included
depart early if enough people are waiting, Uxmal, Chichén Itzá and many other nota-
or switch to English if the group warrants it ble cities. Despite their alliance, animosity
(tours are usually in Spanish). The services arose between the Cocomes of Mayapán
of the guides are included in the admission and the Itzáes of Chichén Itzá during
price, though they expect a small tip after- the late 12th century, and the Cocomes
wards. Tours last about one hour and 20 stormed Chichén Itzá, forcing the Itzáe rul-
minutes, with lots of lengthy stops. Some ers into exile. The Cocom dynasty emerged
guides’ presentations are long on legends supreme in all of northern Yucatán.
(and jokes about disappearing mothers-in- Cocom supremacy lasted for almost 250
law) and short on geological and historical years, until the ruler of Uxmal, Ah Xupán
information. Xiú, led a rebellion of the oppressed city-
When we last visited, the restaurant near states and overthrew Cocom hegemony. The
the cave exit was not operating, but food capital of Mayapán was utterly destroyed
was available at the parador turístico across and remained uninhabited ever after.
the highway from the caves’ parking lot. A But struggles for power continued in
tiny shop near the entrance sells snacks, the region until 1542, when Francisco de
water and beer. Montejo the Younger conquered T’ho and
established Mérida. At that point the cur-
Getting There & Away rent lord of Maní and ruler of the Xiú peo-
Renting a car is the best option for reaching ple, Ah Kukum Xiú, proposed to Montejo
the Grutas, and once you’re out of Mérida a military alliance against the Cocomes,
it’s easy going on pretty good roads. his ancient rivals. Montejo accepted, and
There is a bus service to Oxkutzcab (osh- Xiú was baptized as a Christian, taking the
kootz-kahb; US$3.50, three hours) via Ticul, name Francisco de Montejo Xiú. The Co-
with departures at 5:30am, 6:30am, 7:30am, comes were defeated and – too late – the
9:30am and 11am, from the Noreste Ter- Xiú rulers realized that they had signed the
minal in Mérida. Loltún is 7km southwest death warrant of Maya independence.
of Oxkutzcab, and there is usually some
transportation along the road. Camionetas Exploring the Site
(pickups) and camiones (trucks) charge The city of Mayapán was large, with a popu-
about US$1 for a ride lation estimated to be around 12,000; it cov-
A taxi from Oxkutzcab may cost US$10 ered 4 sq km, all surrounded by a great
or so, one way. defensive wall. More than 3500 buildings,
20 cenotes and traces of the city wall were
RUINAS DE MAYAPÁN mapped by archaeologists working in the
These ruins (admission US$2.40; h8am-5pm) are 1950s and in 1962. The late post-Classic
some 50km southeast of Mérida, on Hwy workmanship is inferior to that of the great
18. Though far less impressive than many age of Maya art.
Maya sites, Mayapán is historically signifi- Among the structures that have been re-
cant, its main attractions are clustered in stored is the Castillo de Kukulcán, a climbable
a compact core, and visitors usually have pyramid with fresco fragments around its
© Lonely Planet Publications
180 S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • C u z a m á www.lonelyplanet.com
of Telchaquillo. LUS runs hourly 2nd-class ceramics made here from the local red clay
buses between 5:30am and 8pm from the are renowned throughout the Yucatán.
Noreste terminal in Mérida (US$1.30 each
way, 1½ hours) that will let you off near Orientation & Information
the entrance to the ruins, and pick you up Ticul’s main street is Calle 23, sometimes
on your way back. Again, you may want to called ‘Calle Principal’, starting from the
consider renting a car to get here. highway and going past the market to the
main plaza, Plaza Mayor. A post office (h8am-
CUZAMÁ 2:30pm Mon-Fri) faces the plaza, as do two banks
The trip to this site (h9am-5pm; for horse, driver, with ATMs. Telmex has an office here.
& up to 4 people US$13) ends in a horse-drawn Several Internet cafés are dotted around
carriage ride to three beautiful cenotes, near the town center; when one goes under, a
each deep within what once was a powerful new one appears nearby. Café Trovadores (Inter-
henequen hacienda. The fun, horse-drawn net per hr US$1.20, coffee US$2; h9am-9pm) has a few
ride will jar your fillings loose while show- computers, coffee and pastries. At the time
ing you nice scenes of the surrounding, of research, the only cinema in town was
overgrown agave fields. Iguana sightings closed, though locals expected it to reopen.
are a sure bet here, but keen eyes can also
see vultures or caracaras, as well as other Sights & Activities
birds, lizards, and the occasional rabbit Because of the number of Maya ruins in the
or two. One of the cenotes is featured in vicinity, from which to steal building blocks,
much of Yucatán’s tourist literature, and and the number of Maya in the area ‘need-
all three are spectacular, with rope like ing’ conversion to Christianity, Franciscan
roots, sunlight filtering through shafts, and friars built many churches in the region.
crystal clear, deep-blue water. Though you Among them is Ticul’s Iglesia de San Antonio
may find yourself sharing a dip with other de Padua, construction of which dates from
bathers, it’s more likely that the drivers will the late 16th century. Although looted on
time the trip so that you have most of the several occasions, the church has some orig-
swimming to yourself. Several have steep inal touches, among them the stone stat-
stairways or ladders that are often slippery, ues of friars in primitive style flanking the
so use caution at all times. side entrances and a Black Christ altarpiece
To get there by car, take Hwy 180 to- ringed by crude medallions.
ward Cancún until you get to a turn off for Catercorner to the Plaza Mayor is the
Ticopo on the right; after Akankeh, bear left recently built Plaza de la Cultura, which is
to reach Cuzamá. The narrow rural roads all cement and stone but nevertheless an
have clear signs, but be careful of kids, dogs, agreeable place to take the evening breeze,
livestock, and sun-drunk iguanas…all will enjoy the view of the church and greet pass-
be on the road at some point. Shared vans ing townspeople.
leave for Cuzamá (US$3 round trip, two Saturday mornings in Ticul are pictur-
hours) from Mérida’s Parque de San Juan. esque: Calle 23 near the public market is
If you use the vans, you’ll need to take a closed to motorized traffic, and the street fills
peditrike from the van stop to Chuncanun, with three-wheeled cycles transporting shop-
an additional US$1. pers between the market and their homes.
© Lonely Planet Publications
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w w waccommodations
. l o n e l y p l a n e online
t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • Ti c u l 181
0 200 m
TICUL 0 0.1 miles
A B C D
INFORMATION SLEEPING Lonchería Mary......................14 B2
Banamex (ATM).......................1 B2 Hotel Plaza...............................7 B2 Pizzeria La Gondola................15 B2
Café Trovadores.......................2 B2 Hotel San Antonio...................8 C3 Restaurant El Colorín..............16 B2
HSBC (ATM)............................3 C2 Hotel San Miguel.....................9 A2 Super Willy's..........................17 A3
1 Post Office...............................4 B2 Hotel Sierra Sosa....................10 B2
Telmex.....................................5 B2 ENTERTAINMENT
EATING Cine Ideal...............................18 B2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Bazar de Comidas..................11 D2
Iglesia de San Antonio de El Buen Samaritano................12 B2 TRANSPORT
Padua..................................6 C2 Flor del Campo.......................13 B2 Bus Terminal..........................19 C2
Colectivos..............................20 C2
9 Colectivos to Oxkutzcab........21 C3
le 1
ὈὈ
Cal Combis to Muna..................(see 14)
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
3
Combis to Santa Elena...........22 A3
Cal
16
Cal
le 2
10 Palacio
le
Municipal
26
4
4
12 To Maní
2 21 Plaza 20 11 (14km)
le
Cal 3 Mayor
le 2 7
Cal
9
1 19
Mercado 15
18
Cal
Cal
5 2
le 2
le 2
5
14 le 2
Parque de Cal lle 25
6A
6
8A
13
la Madre Ca
Cal
le 2
17
Plaza de 5A 21
8
le 2
la Cultura Cal
Cal
le 3
8
3
0
182 S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • Ti c u l t o Ti h o s u c o www.lonelyplanet.com
Flor del Campo (%972-1875; juice US$0.80-1.50; pick up the ATS tour bus (US$5) for Labná,
h6:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 6:30am-3pm Sun) Juice up Sayil, Xlapak, Kabah and Uxmal at 9am on
for the day at this tiny place, which just has its way from Mérida. It returns to Muna at
chilled juices (no smoothies). You can get a 3pm. Any of the buses leaving Ticul before
bottle or a bag. Getting one is like sipping 8am for Muna (or Mérida) will get you to
a part of the rainbow. Muna in time to catch the ATS Ruta Puuc
Ticul’s lively public market (Calle 28A btwn bus. Another way would be to catch a colec-
Calles 21 & 23) provides all the ingredients for tivo from Ticul to Santa Elena then walk a
picnics and snacks, and offers nice photo few blocks to Hwy 261, cross it, and wait
ops too. It also has lots of those wonderful for the Ruta Puuc bus to come by at about
eateries where the food is good, the por- 9:30am.
tions generous and the prices low. Stalls at Alternatively, for US$50 you can get a
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
the new Bazar de Comidas (cnr Calles 25 & 24) serve taxi in Ticul that will stop at the Grutas
inexpensive prepared food. de Loltún, Labná, Sayil, Xlapak, Kabah,
Super Willy’s (Calle 23) Across from the pub- and Uxmal and wait for you while you see
lic market, this is a small supermarket with each place. If you wish to stay at Uxmal for
a big variety of groceries and household the 7pm sound-and-light show, the cost is
items. US$70.
www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • Ti c u l t o Ti h o s u c o 183
The homes of today’s rural Maya are church, which was constructed at a snail’s
still rectangular-shaped, wood-framed huts pace from 1640 to 1693, is also remarkable
with lean-to roofs of palm. The walls are for its magnificent altarpiece. Indeed, it’s
made of bamboo poles or branches, and the one of only a few baroque altarpieces in
spaces between the poles are often filled with the Yucatán to survive the revolts that have
mud to keep pests out. Part of the route occurred since its construction. Among the
is called the Ruta de las Iglesias (Route of many finely detailed features of the altar-
the Churches), as each of these tiny villages piece are six relief panels that illustrate the
has a cathedral or church, many in beautiful main events in the lives of Christ and the
disrepair. Stop for a look and you’ll be sur- Virgin. Images of friars and saints surround
rounded by children who want to tell you the Virgin, and tokens of thanks appear at
as much as they know about their church the foot of the shrine.
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
or their home. Prepare to hear mainly Maya, A mural in the plaza across from the mar-
though many people speak Spanish as well. ket depicts inquisitor Friar Diego de Landa
Anywhere from a stone’s throw to an burning idols and codices while Maya cling
hour’s walk from a Maya hut is a milpa, or to his hassock, vainly pleading for him to
corn field. Corn tortillas remain a staple of stop. This burning took place in Maní, 8km
the Maya diet, but the Maya also raise pigs to the north, in 1562 (see p31).
and turkeys and produce honey, squash
and other crops, which they sell in town Tekax
markets. Many of the younger generation, Unlike the church at Oxkutzcab, the one
particularly men, hitchhike out to work for in Tekax has been looted a couple of times,
a week in the larger towns such as Playa del initially during the War of the Castes and
Carmen or Cancún and return for a day or later during the Mexican Revolution.
two on long weekends or holidays. A small Situated in an increasingly prosperous
family will have about five children. area, due to a successful crop switch from
The towns of Oxkutzcab, Tekax and corn to sugarcane and citrus, Tekax residents
Tihosuco offer budget accommodations. recently replaced the church’s damaged
Beyond Oxkutzcab, the towns along this floor with a beautiful tiled floor and added
route are linked by combis and, less fre- a lovely new stone altar. The interior was
quently, local buses; they may be hailed whitewashed and looks probably as good
from the roadside. as it ever did. According to Maya Missions:
Exploring the Spanish Colonial Churches of
Oxkutzcab Yucatán, a fabulous book by Richard and
Located 16km southeast of Ticul, Oxkut- Rosalind Perry, during construction of the
zcab is renowned for its daily produce church one of the church’s belfries col-
market and colonial church. Markets were lapsed, burying (and presumably crushing)
the principal means of trade for the an- the many indigenous laborers under tons of
cient Maya, and the peninsula’s indigenous rubble. Miraculously, as local legend has it,
people still travel from the countryside to no-one lost their life in the collapse.
central communities to exchange produce Also noteworthy is the shape of the
at stalls beside a main square. Oxkutzcab is church, which undoubtedly was constructed
such a community. of materials taken from nearby Maya tem-
Here, alongside Hwy 184, which becomes ples. The general form of the church is that
a slow-moving, two-lane road as it passes of a three-tiered pyramid. Possibly the ar-
through the center of town, the visitor can’t chitecture was based on the Maya structure
miss seeing the magnificent Franciscan mis- from which the blocks were taken.
sion, out front of which is the sprawling Certainly not ‘borrowed’ from the Maya
produce market. are the Moorish belfries at the front corners
The church is remarkable mostly for its of the building, and a framed relief of the
ornamental façade, at the center of which Franciscan coat of arms situated atop an
is a stone statue of St Francis, the mis- elaborately decorated doorway. Inside, only
sion patron. Two large belfries flank the the simply carved scalloped basins are orig-
statue of the saint, and worn statues of fri- inal; everything else that could have been
ars stand between the bell openings. The destroyed or removed with ease is gone.
© Lonely Planet Publications
Tihosuco
Tihosuco, located inside the state of Quin-
tana Roo, was a major military outpost for
WEST & NORTH OF
the Spanish during the late 16th century
and for 300 years thereafter. During this
MÉRIDA
time, the town came under numerous CELESTÚN
Maya assaults, and in 1686 it was attacked, %988 / pop 6,400
though not sacked, by pirates led by legend- West of Mérida, Celestún is a sun-bleached,
ary Dutch buccaneer Lorencillo. sleepy fishing town, quiet, with a pretty
During many of those attacks, the Span- square where just about nothing happens
iards retreated to the heavily fortified 17th- and that’s the way people like it. The town
century church at the center of town, which lies in the middle of the Reserva de la
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
for much of its life served as both a house of Biósfera Ría Celestún, a wildlife sanctuary
God and an arsenal and stronghold. At one abounding in resident and migratory wa-
time it was quite beautiful, with ornamental terfowl, with flamingos as the star attrac-
details throughout and a colonnaded façade tion. It makes a good beach-and-bird day
that was pure artwork. trip from Mérida, and it’s also a great place
But the town and church fell to rebel to kick back and do nothing for a few days,
hands in 1866 following a long siege, and especially if you’ve become road-weary.
much of the magnificent building was gut- Fishing boats dot the appealing white-
ted. Today, one-third of the curved roof sand beach that stretches to the north for
is gone, as is more than half of the façade. kilometers, and afternoon breezes cool the
What remains of the once-great church is town on most days.
still worth investigating if time permits, Though the winds can kick up sand and
though; it’s quite impressive even with the roil the sea, making the already none-too-
roof missing. Services are still held inside, clear water unpleasant for swimming, they
as in many other roofless churches in the are less intense than in Progreso. Celestún
region. is sheltered by the peninsula’s southward
Also in Tihosuco, housed in an 18th- curve, resulting in an abundance of marine
century building one block straight ahead life. It’s a fine place to watch the sun set into
of the church, is the Museo de la Guerra de Cas- the sea. All you need to know is that Calle
tas (Museum of the War of the Castes; admission US$0.50, 11 is the road into town (it comes due west
free Sunday; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun). It does a good from Mérida), ending at Calle 12, the road
job of detailing the more than three centur- paralleling the beach along which lie most
ies of oppression suffered by the Maya on of the restaurants and hotels.
the peninsula, and their several uprisings Don’t plan on using high-speed Internet
against it. The descriptions of social and here. It’s currently dial-up only. At the time
economic divisions in the Yucatán region of research, plans were underway to install
supply a broader context. Only a couple an ATM in the plaza, but it might not hurt
of explanations are translated into Eng- to stock up on cash before you come.
lish, but the dioramas, paintings, photos
and artifacts (including various weapons Sights & Activities
and a collection of old coins and bills) are RESERVA DE LA BIÓSFERA RÍA CELESTÚN
interesting all the same. The grounds also The 591-sq-km Reserva de la Biósfera Ría
hold a botanical garden with a variety of Celestún is home to a huge variety of ani-
medicinal plants, and you can buy prod- mal and bird life, including a large flamingo
ucts made from them, as well as honey and colony.
some postcards. The best months to see the flamingos are
From Tihosuco, it’s a fast ride up Hwy from March or April to about September,
295 to Valladolid (p198). Along the way you outside the season of the nortes (winds and
can expect the usual traffic stop and ques- rains arriving from the north). Morning is
tions by military personnel as you cross the the best time of day, though from 4pm on-
border back into Yucatán state. Going the ward the birds tend to concentrate in one
other way, Hwy 295 goes to Felipe Carrillo area after the day’s feeding, which can make
Puerto (p132). for good viewing.
© Lonely Planet Publications
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
Unfortunately, hiring a boat can be a grove tunnel and spring. It’s also possible
frustrating experience, and a lesson in false to add a trip from the bridge south to the
expectations. Knowing what to expect will ‘petrified forest,’ for an additional US$10 per
save you some frustration: First, operators passenger, a total time of about 2½ hours.
tend to try to collect as many people as pos- With either the bridge or beach option,
sible, often telling one couple ‘Sure, the tour your captain may or may not speak English.
will leave at 8:30,’ and another couple ‘We’ll An English-speaking guide can be hired at
wait for you until 9am.’ Prices are often the bridge for about US$30 for the short
quoted assuming eight passengers, but if tour; this reduces the maximum possible
only four or six people show up that means number of passengers, of course. Bring
the quoted price rises, often to the irritation snacks, water and sunscreen for the longer
of people who’ve waited 30 minutes to an tours. There is no bank in town, and nei-
hour. You can solve this problem by com- ther credit cards nor traveler’s checks are
ing up with a group of eight on your own. accepted by the tour operators.
Trips from the beach last 2½ to three
hours and begin with a ride along the coast BEACH & BIRDING
for several kilometers, during which you North of town, beyond the small navy post,
can expect to see egrets, herons, cormor- you’ll find more secluded stretches of beach.
ants, sandpipers and many other bird spe- In the same area, but inland of the road, lies
cies. The boat then turns into the mouth a large section of scrub stretching east to the
of the ría (estuary) and passes through a estuary that also provides good birding op-
‘petrified forest,’ where tall coastal trees portunities. South and east of town, toward
once belonging to a freshwater ecosystem the abandoned Hacienda Real de Salinas, is
were killed by saltwater intrusion long ago another good area for nature observation.
and remain standing, hard as rock. Flamingos, white pelicans, cormorants, an-
Continuing up the ría takes you under hingas and many other species frequent the
the highway bridge where the other tours shores and waters of the ría.
begin and beyond which lie the flamingos.
Depending on the tide, the hour and the HACIENDA REAL DE SALINAS
season, you may see hundreds or thousands This abandoned hacienda a few kilometers
of the colorful birds. Don’t encourage your south and east of town once produced
captain to approach them too closely; a dyewood and salt, and served as a sum-
startled flock taking wing can result in in- mer home for a family from Campeche.
juries and deaths (for the birds). In addition It’s about 5km in from the mouth of the
to taking you to the flamingos, the cap- estuary. Out in the ría you can see a cairn
tain will wend through a 200m mangrove marking an ojo de agua dulce (freshwater
tunnel and visit one or both (as time and spring) that once supplied the hacienda.
inclination allow) of the freshwater cenote- The buildings are decaying in a most sce-
springs welling into the salt water of the es- nic way; you can still see shells in the wall
tuary, where you can take a refreshing dip. mixed into the building material, as well
Currently, a boat from the beach costs as pieces of French roof tiles that served as
US$120 to operate, so the per person cost for ballast in ships on the way from Europe.
eight people ends up US$15 per passenger. Many intact tiles with the brickworks’ name
© Lonely Planet Publications
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
tions, you pass through or near the henequen fields that gave rise to Yucatán’s affluence in the
19th century, when workers toiled on the haciendas under what was basically a feudal system.
Prosperity in these parts reached its height during WWI, when the demand for rope was great
and synthetic fibers had not yet been invented.
Sometimes you can smell the grayish, spike-leafed henequen plants before you can see them,
as they emit a putrid, excremental odor. Once planted, henequen can grow virtually untended
for seven years. Thereafter, the plants are annually stripped for fiber. A plant may be productive
for upwards of two decades.
These days great quantities of henequen are imported from Brazil and processed into rope
and other products in the maquiladoras (assembly plants) of Yucatán state. Growing henequen on
the peninsula is still economically viable, if barely; synthetic fibers and cheap imported henequen
have greatly diminished the profits. The decline has been hard on the few Maya farm workers who
still struggle to keep the defibering machines operating on a few former haciendas. The town of
Ake, east of Mérida, has one of only three remaining working rasping machines.
the site. After here the road is in good shape h8am-5pm, 5:30am-5pm at equinox) was the long-
(look for the covered Maya mounds as you est continuously utilized Maya administra-
drive away), and about every 5km passes tive and ceremonial city, serving the Maya
another ruined hacienda all the way to Ha- from 1500 BC or earlier until the European
cienda Granada, shortly before the road hits conquest in the 1540s. At the height of its
old Hwy 180. It’s a fun toodle off the beaten greatness, Dzibilchaltún covered 15 sq km.
path. Several buildings are pretty hard to Some 8500 structures were mapped by ar-
see from the road, so you’ll need to stop fre- chaeologists in the 1960s; only a few of these
quently to really give them their due. Plan have been excavated and restored. In some
on getting out of the car a few times along ways it’s unimpressive if you’ve already seen
the way to look around. larger places such as Chichén Itzá or Uxmal,
You can have a look at most of the five but twice a year humble Dzibilchaltún
haciendas (ask permission at Granada; the shines. Literally: at sunrise on the equinoxes
owner lives there). An exception is Hacienda (approximately March 21 and September
Santa Rosa (% 999-910-4852; www.starwood.com 22), the sun aligns directly with the main
/luxury; r US$250-500), which has been marvel- door of the Templo de las Siete Muñecas (Tem-
ously restored as a luxury hotel. The 11 ple of the Seven Dolls), which got its name
rooms show amazing variety; some have from seven grotesque dolls discovered here
private walled gardens with bathtubs or during excavations. As it rises, the temple
plunge pools. It’s very slow-paced and a doors glow, then ‘light up’ as the sun passes
good place to unwind, assuming you’re behind. It also casts a cool square beam on
comfortable dropping this sort of money. the crumbled wall behind.
Whether you come to strike a Y-shaped
DZIBILCHALTÚN ‘feel the pyramid power’ pose, to snap a pic-
About 17km north of downtown Mérida (a ture, or just to see what the fuss is about, it’s
25 minute drive), Dzibilchaltún (Place of Inscribed pretty impressive – many who’ve seen both
Flat Stones; admission US$6 Mon-Sat, US$4 Sun & holidays; feel the sunrise here is more spectacular
© Lonely Planet Publications
than Chichén Itzá’s famous snake (p192), especially in the summer months. Even on
and is well worth getting up at the crack of spring weekdays it can be difficult to find
dawn to witness. a room with a view. Once or twice a week
Enter the site along a nature trail that the streets flood with cruise-ship tourists,
terminates at the modern, air-conditioned but the place can feel empty on off nights,
Museo del Pueblo Maya (h8am-4pm Tue-Sun), fea- a refreshing change.
turing artifacts from throughout the Maya There’s also a strong evangelical presence
regions of Mexico, including some superb here, so on Sunday prepare to see families
colonial-era religious carvings and other in their finest clothes heading to church.
pieces. Exhibits explaining Maya daily life You’re as likely to be approached by peo-
and beliefs from ancient times until the ple offering pamphlets (sometimes even in
present are labeled in Spanish and English. English) about redemption as by hammock
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
Beyond the museum, a path leads to the sellers. One particularly memorable scene
central plaza, where you’ll find an open witnessed by us was of an elderly grand-
chapel that dates from early Spanish times mother sitting at a table blasting Spanish
(1590–1600). At the time of research, half Christian hard rock out across the plaza.
the museum was still closed due to damage Downtown Progreso’s streets have new
from Hurricane Isidore, but repairs were signs in anticipation of the tourist boom,
under way. and its confusing dual numbering sys-
The Cenote Xlacah, is more than 40m deep. tem was largely changed. Even-numbered
In 1958 a National Geographic Society div- streets run east-west; odd ones north-south.
ing expedition recovered more than 30,000 The bus terminal (Calle 29) is west of Calle 82,
Maya artifacts, many of ritual significance, a block north (toward the water) from the
from the cenote. The most interesting of main plaza. From the plaza on Calle 80, it
these are now on display in the site’s mu- is six short blocks to the waterfront malecón
seum. South of the cenote is Estructura 44, at (boulevard; Calle 19) and muelle (wharf);
130m it’s one of the longest Maya structures along the way are two Banamex banks, one
in existence. with an ATM.
Parking costs US$1. Minibuses and colec- Internet cafés offering so-so access are
tivo taxis depart frequently from Mérida’s sprinkled everywhere, especially around the
Parque de San Juan (Calle 69 btwn Calles 62 & 64) bus terminal and Calles 29 and 78. Some
for the village of Dzibilchaltún Ruinas stay open until 9pm, others as late as 1am,
(US$0.80, 30 minutes), a little over 1km charging about US$1.50 per hour.
from the museum.
Sleeping & Eating
PROGRESO All hotels and restaurants listed are no
%969 / pop 48,700 more than 11 blocks north and east of the
If Mérida’s heat has you dying for a quick bus terminal.
beach fix, or you want to see the long- Hotel Miralmar (%935-0552; Calle 27 No 124 at
est wharf (7km) in Mexico, head to Pro- Calle 76; d/tw with fan US$16/21, d with air-con US$28;
greso (also known as Puerto Progreso). a) Four blocks inland, it has mostly good
The beach is fine, well groomed and long; beds, decent bathrooms and good natural
however, except for the small palapas light. Rooms on the upper floor have bet-
erected by restaurants it’s nearly shade- ter ventilation and baths, in curious prefab
less and is dominated by the view of the clover-shaped units.
wharf, giving it a rather industrial feel. Hotel Real del Mar (%935-0798; d US$22/34; a)
Winds can hit here full force off the Gulf This place features 15 rooms with air-con,
in the afternoon and can blow well into and various configurations of beds and
the night, which should mean kite-board- views. The décor is nice, with tiled floors,
ing and windsurfing, but currently there’s a small fountain, and a tropical green-and-
neither unless you’ve brought your own. yellow paint job.
As with other Gulf beaches, the water is Hotel Tropical Suites (%935-1263; fax 935-3093;
murky; visibility even on calm days rarely cnr malecón & Calle 70; d/tw with fan US$25/30, with air-
exceeds 5m. None of this stops méridanos con US$25/35; a) Across the street from Hotel
from coming in droves on weekends, Real del Mar, it’s a seaside hotel with 21
© Lonely Planet Publications
Book
w w waccommodations
. l o n e l y p l a n e online
t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T & N O R T H O F M É R I D A • • E a s t o f P r o g re s o 189
tidy, non musty, smallish rooms, some with a living. The fishing communities are tak-
sea views. The 1st-floor rooms opening out ing a devastating hit and will continue to
on the street don’t afford much privacy. A as local prices rise. At the same time, there
great location for beach bums. were plenty of businesses that went up too
Restaurant Mary Doly (Calle 25 btwn Calles 74 & early, anticipating far more tourists would
76; breakfast US$1.50-3.50, mains US$3.50-7; h7am- arrive; their cracked parking lots now over-
5pm Mon-Sat, 7am-5pm Sun) Near Hotel Miral- run with weeds, and vines covering the
mar, this is a homey place with good, cheap ‘Valet Parking’ signs.
seafood, meat and breakfasts. The freshly The most interesting bits of this area are
squeezed orange juice is very refreshing. relatively close to Progreso and are best
Restaurant El Cordobes (%935-2621; cnr Calles 80 explored by car. Keep an eye out for un-
& 31; mains US$4.50-7.50; h6am-midnight daily) Also painted, unmarked topes (speed bumps),
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
near Hotel Miralmar, this is on the north which make it easy to return your rental
side of the plaza in a 100-year-old building vehicle with a lot of extra play in the steer-
with character. Weak ‘American’ coffee is ing column.
served quickly, with a warm smile, and it’s At Uaymitún a tall wooden observation
a perfect place to relax for a bit and look out tower at the edge of the lagoon allows you
on the main plaza. to watch flamingos, as well as ibis, herons,
Restaurant Los Pelícanos (%935-5378; cnr Ma- spoonbills and other waterfowl. You can
lecón & Calle 70; mains US$4.50-10, special dishes US$20; rent binoculars for the purpose.
h8am-midnight Mon-Sat, 8am-8pm Sun) By Hotel The buildings thin out beyond Uaymitún,
Real del Mar, it has a shady terrace, sea and about 16km east of it a road heads
views, a good menu and moderate prices, south from the coast some 3km across the
considering its location. It’s usually very bird-riddled lagoon to the turnoff for the
windy. Peaches and cream is a nice way to ruins of Xcambó, which was a Maya salt-
finish a meal. distribution center, though much of it has
been reconstructed.
Getting There & Away Following the road south beyond the
Progreso is 33km north of Mérida along ruins turnoff takes you into grassy marsh-
a fast four-lane highway that’s basically a land with cattails and scatterings of palm
continuation of the Paseo de Montejo. The trees, a beautiful landscape providing ample
bus station (Calle 29, btwn Calles 80 & 82) has nu- opportunities for bird-spotting without
merous Mérida-bound buses from 5:20am even getting out of the car.
to 10pm. For bus information here from Continuing south on this road takes you
Mérida, see p169. back to civilization at Motul, from where
you can head in any number of directions:
EAST OF PROGRESO east and south to Izamal, west and north
Heading east from Progreso, Hwy 27 paral- to the Dzibilchaltún ruins, southwest to
lels the coast for 70km, to Dzilam de Bravo, Tixkokob and its beautiful hammocks
before turning inland. It’s a beautiful drive, (p168), or west and south to Mérida via
and you’ll pass miles of mixed mangrove Conkal, whose Convento de San Fran-
clumps and notice that on the right (south) cisco de Asís now houses the new Museo
the mud takes on a beautiful pink color. Not de Arte Sacro (admission free; h9am-6pm Tue-Sat,
surprisingly, this area is named the Rose 9am-2pm Sun). This is a small but well-done
Lagoon. Heading east from Dezilam, the museum of religious art and artifacts, in-
road continues a further 100km to hit the cluding 18th- and 19th-century altarpieces
coast again at the charming fishing village and carvings of saints, good historical and
of San Felipe (see p206). archaeological exhibits detailing the foun-
On the seaward side (the north) of the dation (and later restoration) of Yucatán’s
Rose Lagoon things are less pretty: a lot monasteries, and contemporary profane
of new time-shares and condos and hotels, and religious artwork. Some of the latter is
plus numerous ‘boat for sale’ signs, a grim surprisingly racy. All labeling is in Spanish.
reminder that as the ‘snowbirds’ from the Be sure to check out the architecture of the
USA flock down to buy up the land, the convent itself, including the noria (irriga-
locals have to find alternate ways to make tion system) out back.
© Lonely Planet Publications
expressions of Maya religiosity are why the roof’s edge. A small museum (h10am-1pm,
Spanish colonists chose Izamal as the site 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun) at the back com-
for an enormous and impressive Francis- memorates Pope John Paul II’s 1993 visit
can monastery, which today stands at the to the monastery. He brought with him a
heart of this town just under 70km east silver crown for the statue of the patron
of Mérida. saint of Yucatán, the Virgin of Izamal.
The Izamal of today is a quiet, colonial The monastery’s front entrance faces
gem of a provincial town, nicknamed La west; it’s flanked by Calles 31 and 33 on
Ciudad Amarilla (The Yellow City) for the north and south, respectively, and 28
the traditional yellow that most buildings and 30 on the east and west. The best time
are painted. It is easily explored on foot. to visit is in the morning, as the church
Horse-drawn carriages add to the city’s is occasionally closed during the afternoon
charm. Making a trip here even easier is siesta.
the excellent tourist map, available in sev- Three of the town’s original 12 Maya
eral languages (English and Spanish are pyramids have been partially restored. The
always available, but there’s also French, largest (and the 3rd largest in Yucatán) is
German and even Japanese), describing the enormous Kinich-Kakmó, three blocks
various walking tours and locations where north of the monastery. You can climb it
handicraft demonstrations take place. Gaia for free.
Maya (p160) do day trips to Izamal from If you want a real jungle experience, ask
Mérida. at the tourist center (%988-954-0009) for Este-
ban Abán, the jewelry maker, who offers
Sights & Activities guided trips to Ox-Huadz, an unexcavated
When the Spaniards conquered Izamal, ruin. You’ll need to set things up at least a
they destroyed the major Maya temple, day in advance, depending on Abán’s avail-
the Ppapp-Hol-Chac pyramid, and in 1533 ability, but the trip offers great birding and
began to build from its stones one of the Indiana Jones–style ruin-hunting. You’ll
first monasteries in the Western Hemi- need to be in relatively good shape.
sphere. Work on Convento de San Antonio de
Padua (admission free; h6am-8pm) was finished Sleeping & Eating
in 1561. Under the monastery’s arcades, Hotel Canto (Calle 31; r US$13) In front of the
look for building stones with an unmis- monastery, it is dirt cheap and actually
takable mazelike design; these were clearly kind of dirty: the rooms are musty and
taken from the earlier Maya temple. the bathrooms aren’t great. Tiny skylights
The monastery’s principal church is the and once-colorful murals help brighten the
Santuario de la Virgen de Izamal, approached place up, and it is worth a peek for those
by a ramp from the main square. The ramp who need to protect their pennies. Far at
leads into the Atrium, a huge arcaded court- the back of the property is one of Izamal’s
yard in which the fiesta of the Virgin of pyramids. A restaurant at the front serves
Izamal takes place each August 15. cheap meals.
At some point, the 16th-century frescoes Macan Ché (%/fax 954-0287; www.macanche.com;
beside the entrance of the sanctuary were Calle 22 No 305; d US$30-60; ais) It’s about
completely painted over. For years they lay three long (yes, long!) blocks east of the
© Lonely Planet Publications
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monastery (take Calle 31 toward Cancún mysteries of the Maya astronomical calen-
and turn right on Calle 22). The charming dar are made clear when one understands
hotel has a cluster of cottages and a small the design of the ‘time temples’ here. Other
‘cenote’ pool in a woodsy setting, with 12 than a few minor passageways, climbing on
pretty rooms in all. The most expensive has the structures at the site was not allowed
air-con and a kitchenette. Rates include a when we were there.
big breakfast. Free wireless and LAN (Local At the vernal and autumnal equinoxes
Area Network) for guests. (March 20 to 21 and September 21 to 22),
Restaurant Kinich-Kakmó (%954-0489; www the morning and afternoon sun produces
.sabordeizamal.com; Calle 27 btwn Calles 28 & 30; mains a light-and-shadow illusion of the serpent
US$8; h11:30am-5pm) Three blocks north of ascending or descending the side of El Cas-
the monastery, this place is casual and ex- tillo’s staircase. The site is mobbed on these
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
tremely friendly, offering fan-cooled patio dates, however, making it difficult to see,
dining beside a garden. It specializes in and after the spectacle, parts of the site are
traditional Yucatecan food, has some un- sometimes closed to the public. The illusion
usual items on the menu, such as delicious is almost as good in the week preceding and
frozen, candied papaya garnished with (of following each equinox (and draws much
all things!) cubes of cheese. smaller crowds), and is re-created nightly
Several loncherías occupy spaces in the in the light-and-sound show year-round.
market on the monastery’s southwest side. Some find the spectacle fascinating, others
As with anywhere in Yucatán, ask locals for think it’s over-rated. Either way, if you’re
a food or hotel recommendation. There’s in the area around the equinox and you’ve
lots to be discovered here. got your own car it’s easy to wake up early
for Dzibilchaltún’s fiery sunrise (see p187)
Getting There & Away and then make it to Chichén Itzá by mid-
Oriente operates frequent buses between afternoon, catching both spectacles on the
Mérida and Izamal (US$3, 1½ hours) from same day.
the 2nd-class terminal. There are buses from The heat, humidity and crowds can be
Valladolid (US$4, two hours) as well. Com- fierce; try to do your exploration of the site
ing from Chichén Itzá you must change (especially around El Castillo) either early
buses at Hoctún. Izamal’s bus terminal is in the morning or late in the afternoon.
two short blocks west of the monastery.
Other bus services from Izamal include History
Tizimín (US$5.50, 2½ hours) and Cancún Most archaeologists agree that the first
(US$10.20, six hours). Shared vans leave major settlement at Chichén Itzá, during
from Calle 31 a block north of Hotel Canto the late Classic period, was pure Maya. In
for Mérida (US$2) and arrive in Mérida on about the 9th century, the city was largely
the corner of Calles 67 and 50; if you have abandoned for reasons unknown. It was
heavy luggage, ask if they can charge US$3 resettled around the late 10th century, and
for service door-to-door. shortly thereafter it is believed to have been
Drivers will find that it’s easy to park invaded by the Toltecs, who had migrated
here: there are numerous spaces in and from their central highlands capital of Tula,
around the plaza. Sometimes a brown- north of Mexico City. Toltec culture was
shirted tourist policeman will even stop fused with that of the Maya, incorporat-
traffic while you enter and exit your space. ing the cult of Quetzalcóatl (Kukulcán, in
He may also recommend a place (eatery, Maya). You will see images of both Chac-
hotel, souvenir shop etc). Usually that’s a Mool, the Maya rain god, and Quetzalcóatl,
place you can safely avoid. the plumed serpent, throughout the city.
The substantial fusion of highland cen-
CHICHÉN ITZÁ tral Mexican and Puuc architectural styles
The most famous and best restored of the makes Chichén unique among the Yucatán
Yucatán Maya sites, Chichén Itzá (Mouth of the Peninsula’s ruins. The fabulous El Castillo
Well of the Itzáes; admission US$9.50 Mon-Sat, US$5 Sun & and the Plataforma de Venus are outstand-
holidays; h8am-5:30pm winter, 8am-6pm summer) will ing architectural works built during the
impress even the most jaded visitor. Many height of Toltec cultural input.
© Lonely Planet Publications
The warlike Toltecs contributed more summer and 7pm in winter. It costs US$3
than their architectural skills to the Maya. if you don’t already have a ruins wristband,
They elevated human sacrifice to a near ob- and it counts toward the admission price
session, and there are numerous carvings of the following day. Devices for listening to
the bloody ritual in Chichén demonstrating English, French, German or Italian trans-
this. After a Maya leader moved his political lations (beamed via infrared) rent for US$3.
capital to Mayapán while keeping Chichén Specify the language you need or it may not
as his religious capital, Chichén Itzá fell be broadcast.
into decline. Why it was subsequently aban-
doned in the 14th century is a mystery, but Sights
the once-great city remained the site of EXPLORING THE RUINS
Maya pilgrimages for many years. Unidad de Servicios
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
To top it off, during the spring and au- city’s eight courts, indicative of the import-
tumn equinoxes, light and shadow form a ance the games held here. The court, to the
series of triangles on the side of the north left of the Unidad de Servicios, is flanked
staircase that mimic the creep of a serpent by temples at either end and is bounded
(note the carved serpent’s heads flanking by towering parallel walls with stone rings
the bottom of the staircase). cemented up high.
The older pyramid inside El Castillo There is evidence that the ball game may
boasts a red jaguar throne with inlaid eyes have changed over the years. Some carv-
and spots of jade; also lying behind the ings show players with padding on their
screen is a chac-mool figure. The entrance elbows and knees, and it is thought that
to El Túnel, the passage up to the throne, is they played a soccerlike game with a hard
at the base of El Castillo’s north side. You rubber ball, with the use of hands forbid-
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
can’t go in, though. den. Other carvings show players wielding
bats; it appears that if a player hit the ball
Gran Juego de Pelota through one of the stone hoops, his team
The great ball court, the largest and most was declared the winner. It may be that dur-
impressive in Mexico, is only one of the ing the Toltec period the losing captain,
0 200 m
CHICHÉN ITZÁ 0 0.1 miles
Plataforma de los
Gran Cráneos (Tzompantli)
Juego
de Pelota Plaza
Principal Plataforma
de Venus
Plataforma de
las Águilas y Templo de las
Western los Jaguares Grandes Mesas
Entrance Entrance to El
Templo de
los Jaguares Seating Túnel (Inner Templo de
y Escudos Area Pyramid) los Guerreros
Juego
de Pelota
Unidad de
Servicios
El Castillo Columnata
(Pyramid of Grupo de las Noreste
Kukulcán) Mil Columnas
Juego
de Pelota
El Osario
(Tumba del
Gran Sacerdote) Snack
Bar
El Mercado
Baño
Casa de de Vapor
los Metates y Juego No 2
wa
e de Pelota
us
Templo Ca
del Venado Cau
sew
ay
Xtoloc
Tra
and perhaps his teammates as well, were that this platform was part of a temple dedi-
sacrificed. cated to the military legions responsible for
Along the walls of the ball court are stone capturing sacrificial victims.
reliefs, including scenes of decapitations of
players. The court exhibits some interesting Cenote Sagrado
acoustics – a conversation at one end can be From the tzompantli, a 300m rough stone
heard 135m away at the other, and a clap road runs north (a five-minute walk) to
produces multiple loud echoes. the huge sunken well that gave this city its
name. The Sacred Cenote is an awesome
Templo del Barbado & Templo de los natural well, some 60m in diameter and
Jaguares y Escudos 35m deep. The walls between the summit
The structure at the northern end of the and the water’s surface are ensnared in
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
ball court, called the Temple of the Bearded tangled vines and other vegetation. There
Man after a carving inside of it, has some are ruins of a small steam bath next to the
finely sculpted pillars and reliefs of flowers, cenote, as well as a modern drinks stand
birds and trees. The Temple of the Jaguars (US$1.20 for a small bottle of water) with
and Shields, built atop the southeast corner toilets. See the boxed text below, for the
of the ball court’s wall, has some columns historical details.
with carved rattlesnakes and tablets with
etched jaguars. Inside are faded mural frag- Grupo de las Mil Columnas
ments depicting a battle. This group to the east of El Castillo takes
its name, which means ‘Group of the
Plataforma de los Cráneos Thousand Columns’, from the forest of
The Platform of Skulls (tzompantli in pillars stretching south and east. The star
Náhuatl, a Maya dialect) is located between attraction here is the Templo de los Guerreros
the Templo de los Jaguares and El Castillo. (Temple of the Warriors), adorned with
You can’t mistake it, because the T-shaped stucco and stone-carved animal deities.
platform is festooned with carved skulls and At the top of its steps is a classic reclin-
eagles tearing open the chests of men to eat ing chac-mool figure – you’re no longer
their hearts. In ancient days this platform allowed to ascend to it.
was used to display the heads of sacrificial Many of the columns in front of the
victims. temple are carved with figures of warriors.
Archaeologists working in 1926 discovered
Plataforma de las Águilas y los Jaguares a Temple of Chac-Mool lying beneath the
Adjacent to the tzompantli, the carvings Temple of the Warriors.
on the Platform of the Eagles and Jaguars You can walk through the columns on
depict those animals gruesomely grabbing its south side to reach the Columnata Noreste,
human hearts in their claws. It is thought notable for the ‘big-nosed god’ masks on
its façade. Some have been reassembled on La Iglesia (The Church), is covered almost
the ground around the statue. Just to the entirely with carvings. Currently, on the far
south are the remains of the Baño de Vapor side at the back there are some passageways
(Steam Bath or Sweat House) with an un- that are still open, leading a short way into
derground oven and drains for the water. the labyrinth inside. They are dank, slip-
The sweat houses were regularly used for pery, smell of bat urine, and it’s easy to
ritual purification. twist an ankle, but Indiana Jones wannabes
will think it’s totally cool.
El Osario
The Ossuary, otherwise known as the Akab-Dzib
Bonehouse or the Tumba del Gran Sa- East of the Nunnery, the Puuc-style Akab-
cerdote (High Priest’s Grave), is a ruined Dzib is thought by some archaeologists to be
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
pyramid to the southwest of El Castillo. As the most ancient structure excavated here.
with most of the buildings in this south- The central chambers date from the 2nd
ern section, the architecture is more Puuc century. The name means ‘Obscure Writ-
than Toltec. It’s notable for the beautiful ing’ in Maya and refers to the south-side
serpent heads at the base of its staircases. annex door, whose lintel depicts a priest
A square shaft at the top of the structure with a vase etched with hieroglyphics that
leads into a cave beneath it that was used have never been translated.
as a burial chamber; seven tombs with
human remains were discovered inside. Chichén Viejo
These days a snack bar with telephone and Old Chichén comprises largely unrestored
toilets stands nearby. ruins, scattered about and hidden in the
bush south of the Nunnery. The predom-
El Caracol inant architecture is Maya, with Toltec
Called El Caracol (The Snail) by the Span- additions and modifications. At the time
iards for its interior spiral staircase, this of research, the public was not allowed to
observatory, to the south of the Ossuary, is enter the area.
one of the most fascinating and important
of all Chichén Itzá’s buildings (but, alas, CENOTE IK KIL
you can’t enter it). Its circular design re- About 3km east of the eastern entrance
sembles some central highlands structures, to Chichén Itzá is the turnoff for Ik Kil
although, surprisingly, not those of Toltec Parque Ecoarqueológico (%985-858-1525; adult/
Tula. In a fusion of architectural styles and child US$6/3; h 8am-6pm), whose cenote has
religious imagery, there are Maya Chac been developed into an OK swimming
rain-god masks over four external doors spot. For anyone who’s visited some of
facing the cardinal points. The windows the other cenotes this will seem touristy,
in the observatory’s dome are aligned with dirty and expensive; those who’re heading
the appearance of certain stars at specific back to Cancún or anyone with mobility
dates. From the dome the priests decreed difficulties will probably enjoy peeking, as
the times for rituals, celebrations, corn- it offers some idea of what makes cenotes
planting and harvests. so unusual and there are good stairs with
some handrails.
Edificio de las Monjas & La Iglesia In late 2002 two Japanese visitors were
Thought by archaeologists to have been a killed by falling rock when a section of the
palace for Maya royalty, the so-called Edifi- cenote, saturated by the heavy rains of Hur-
cio de las Monjas (Nunnery), with its myr- ricane Isidore, collapsed.
iad rooms, resembled a European convent Small cascades of water plunge from the
to the conquistadors, hence their name for high limestone roof, which is ringed by
the building. The building’s dimensions greenery. A good buffet lunch runs an extra
are imposing: its base is 60m long, 30m US$12 (beverages extra). Get your swim
wide and 20m high. The construction is in by no later than 1pm to beat the tour
Maya rather than Toltec, although a Toltec groups. The grounds also hold five lovely
sacrificial stone stands in front. A smaller cabanas (up to 8 people US$100-200; a) with air-
adjoining building to the east, known as con and Jacuzzi.
© Lonely Planet Publications
ancient ceremonial objects were removed a palapa, enjoy the inn’s pool and watch
and studied. Eventually most of them were satellite TV in the lobby. Campers have use
returned to the caves, and placed exactly of tepid showers, clean shared toilet facilities
where they were found. and a safe place to stow gear. Kitties scamper
The turnoff for the caverns (admission Mon-Sat or drape themselves around the walkways.
US$5, Sun US$2; hticket booth 9am-5pm) is 5km east There’s also a Maya-style sweat lodge.
of Chichén Itzá (about 5km southeast of Hotel Posada Maya (% 985-851-0211; Calle 8
Cenote Ik Kil) on the highway to Cancún. btwn Calles 15 & 10; hammock sites with/without ham-
Second-class buses heading east from Pisté mock US$6/5, d/t/q US$15/18/20) Just north of the
toward Valladolid and Cancún will drop highway (look for the sign), around the
you at the Balankanché road. The entrance corner from the Oriente ticket office, it is a
to the caves is 350m north of the highway. friendly place that offers clean, fan-cooled
Outside the caves you’ll find a good bo- rooms with decent beds. However, poor
tanical garden (displaying native Yucatecan screens and no toilets seats make it not for
flora with information on the medicinal everyone. The restaurant offers cheap meals
and other uses of the trees and plants), a all day long.
small museum, a shop selling cold drinks Posada Olalde (%985-851-0086; cnr Calles 6 & 17;
and souvenirs, and a ticket booth with free s/d US$20/25, bungalows US$20) Two blocks south
luggage storage. The museum features large of the highway by Artesanías Guayacán, this
photographs taken during the exploration is the best of Pisté’s several pensiones. It has
of the caves, and descriptions (in English, five clean, quiet and attractive rooms and
Spanish and French) of the Maya religion four rustic but charming and decent-sized
and the offerings found in the caves. Also bungalows. Some toilets are missing seats.
on display are photographs of modern-day All accommodations are fan-cooled, and the
Maya ceremonies called Ch’a Chaac, which friendly manager speaks Spanish and Eng-
continue to be held in all the villages on the lish, as well as some German and Maya.
Yucatán Peninsula during times of drought Posada Poxil (%985-851-0116; Calle 15A; hammock
and consist mostly of praying and making US$15, s/d/tr US$18/20/32; s) At the western end
numerous offerings of food to Chac. of Pisté, it has seven quiet rooms with good
Compulsory 40-minute tours (minimum light and ventilation and fans, and an in-
six people, maximum 20) have melodra- expensive restaurant serving big breakfasts
matic recorded narration that is nearly (US$3) and Yucatecan dishes. The pool has
impossible to make out and is not very in- been ‘under repair’ for a number of years.
formative, but if you’d like it in a particular The hot water is ‘solar heated,’ not a bit
language, English is at 11am, 1pm and 3pm; warmer than tepid.
Spanish is at 9am, noon, 2pm and 4pm; and Posada Chac-Mool (%985-851-0270; Calle 15A;
French is at 10am. s/d/tr with fan US$18/20/25, with air-con US$30/35/40;
Be warned that the cave is unusually a) Just east of Hotel Chichén Itzá and on
hot, and ventilation is poor in its further the opposite (south) side of the highway in
reaches. The lack of oxygen (especially after Pisté, it has fairly basic doubles with good
a few groups have already passed through) screens. All are available with good air-con
makes it difficult to draw a full breath until to augment the fans. Someone here loves
you’re outside again. potted plants.
© Lonely Planet Publications
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Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
entrance, though it’s still a hike of about egant main house and ruined walls make
3km. Animals are welcome. a great setting, and huge ceiba trees offer
Hotel Chichén Itzá (%985-851-0022; fax 985- welcome shade. The archaeologists who
851-0023; www.mayaland.com; Calle 15A No 45; r fan excavated Chichén during the 1920s lived
only US$30, d/tr/q high season US$85/100/115, low season here in bungalows, which have been re-
US$65/80/95; as) On the west side of Pisté, furbished and augmented with new ones.
it has 42 pleasant rooms with tile floors and The same outfit runs the Casa del Balam in
old-style brick-tile ceilings. Rooms in the Mérida, so if you phone, be sure to specify
upper range face the pool and the nicely which location you’re calling about.
landscaped grounds, and all have firm beds
and minibars. Parents may bring two kids Eating
under 13 for free. Try asking for a discount. The highway through Pisté is lined with
The restaurant serves a US$10 buffet lunch more than 20 eateries, large and small. The
from 11am to 5pm daily. cheapest are the market stalls on the main
plaza opposite the large tree. Other places
TOP END are ranged along the highway from the
All these hotels have air-con, swimming town square to the Pirámide Inn. Los Pá-
pools, restaurants, bars, well-kept tropi- jaros and Cocina Económica Chichén Itzá,
cal gardens, comfortable guestrooms and facing each other on opposite sides of the
tour groups coming and going. They’re highway, serve sandwiches, omelets, enchi-
close to the archaeological zone’s eastern ladas and quesadillas for around US$3.50,
entrance. or a whole grilled chicken with salad, rice or
Hotel Villas Arqueológicas (% 985-856-6000, soup for US$5/7 take away/dine in.
in the USA 800-514-8244; www.clubmed.com; d/tr/ste Lonchería Sayil (mains US$3; h 7am-9pm) A
US$81/101/137; as) A Club Med hotel, this touch west of Posada Chac-Mool, this is
is 300m from the east entrance. It is an a very no-frills place serving a small range
exact clone of the villas at Cobá and Uxmal, of Yucatecan dishes and a couple of other
a walled hacienda-style complex sporting a items.
profusion of red floor tiles, a library with Restaurant Hacienda Xaybe’h (% 985-851-
billiard table, and 40 smallish but comfort- 0039; buffet lunch & dinner US$11; h7:30am-6pm) Set
able rooms recently upgraded with nice a block back from the highway opposite
touches of marble and tile. The restaurant Hotel Chichén Itzá, this is a large, rather
serves a mix of Mexican and Yucatecan fancy place with nice grounds. It’s popular
food, and there’s a nice bar. with tours and the food is a bit overpriced;
Hotel Mayaland (% 985-851-0100, in the USA the selection of salads makes it’s a good
800-235-4079; www.mayaland.com; d/ste/royal ste option for vegetarians. Diners can use the
US$173/255/345; as) Less than 100m from swimming pool free of charge.
the ruins’ entrance – from the lobby and Xunan (%851-0131; Calle Principal s/n; mains US$4-
front rooms you can look out at El Cara- 9; h7am to 9pm) Service is a bit slow here, but
col. The hotel was built around 1923 and this colorful eatery (at the front of a sou-
is the most gracious in Chichén’s vicin- venir stand) offers good food at reasonable
ity, with multiple pools and restaurants prices and is a nice change from the tourist
and vast, beautifully green grounds. Tiled buffets. Portions are generous.
© Lonely Planet Publications
Getting There & Away still feels small, manageable and affordable.
Oriente has ticket offices near the east and Slow down for a day by renting a bicycle
west sides of Pisté, and 2nd-class buses and toodle out to the nearby cenotes. Sit
passing through town stop almost any- on a bench in one of the many squares and
where along the way. Many 1st-class buses watch men play board games or kids chase
only hit the ruins and the west side of town, pigeons. Buy a dollar’s worth of fresh tortil-
close to the toll highway. las and let an afternoon pass lazily by.
When they’re running on schedule, Ori-
ente’s 2nd-class buses pass through Pisté History
bound for Mérida (US$5, 2½ hours) hourly Valladolid was once the Maya ceremonial
between 8:15am and 4:15pm. Hourly Ori- center of Zací (sah-kee). The initial attempt
ente buses to Valladolid (US$2, 50 min- at conquest in 1543 by Francisco de Mon-
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
utes) and Cancún (US$8, 4½ hours) pass tejo, nephew of Montejo the Elder, was
between 7am and 5:30pm. There is a service thwarted by fierce resistance by the Maya,
to Cobá (US$5, 1½ hours) as well. but the Elder’s son – Montejo the Younger –
At the time of research, 1st-class buses ultimately took the town. The Spanish con-
served Mérida (US$8, 1¾ hours) at 2:25pm querors laid out a new city on the classic
and 5pm, Cancún (US$14, 2½ hours) at colonial plan.
4:30pm, and Tulum (US$10, 2½ hours) at During much of the colonial era, Val-
8am and 4:30pm. The last two continued to ladolid’s physical isolation from Mérida
Playa del Carmen (US$14, 3½ hours). kept it relatively autonomous from royal
Shared vans to Valladolid (US$1.60, 40 rule. The Maya of the area suffered brutal
minutes) pass through town regularly. exploitation, which continued after Mexi-
can independence. Barred from entering
Getting Around many areas of the city, the Maya made Val-
During Chichén Itzá’s opening hours 1st ladolid one of their first points of attack
and 2nd-class buses serve the ruins (check following the 1847 outbreak of the War
with the driver), and they will take passen- of the Castes (see p32) in Tepich. After a
gers from town for about US$0.60 when two-month siege, the city’s defenders were
there’s room. For a bit more, 2nd-class finally overcome. Many fled to the safety of
buses will also take you to the Cenote Ik Kil Mérida; the rest were slaughtered.
and the Grutas de Balankanché (be sure to Today Valladolid is a prosperous seat
specify your destination when buying your of agricultural commerce, augmented by
ticket). If you plan to see the ruins and then some light industry and a growing tourist
head directly to another city by 1st-class trade. Many vallisetanos speak Spanish with
bus, buy your bus ticket in the Unidad de the soft and clear Maya accent.
Servicios before hitting the ruins, for a bet-
ter chance of getting a seat. Orientation & Information
There is a taxi stand near the west end The old highway passes through the center
of town; the price to the ruins is US$2.50. of town, though most signs urge motorists
There are usually cabs at Chichén’s park- toward the toll road north of town. To fol-
ing lot. low the old highway eastbound, take Calle
41; westbound, take Calle 39. To preserve
VALLADOLID the colonial flavor of the center, Valladolid
%985 / pop 56,700 has limited the posting of signs by busi-
Valladolid, with its quiet streets and sun- nesses to those approved by the city. This
splashed, frosting-cake colored walls is one can sometimes make it difficult to find an
of Yucatán gems, well worth stopping for a establishment; you need to keep a keen
day or a week. It makes a great hub for visits eye out for small cardboard signs on open
to Río Lagartos’ flamingo colonies, Chichén doors.
Itzá, Ek’ Balam, or any of the many nearby Various banks (most with ATMs) near
cenotes. Drivers will find the wide, one-way the center of town are generally open 9am
streets easier to navigate than in Cancún to 5pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 1pm
or hectic Mérida. In fact, the city is at that Saturday. The main plaza has banks of Tel-
magic point where there’s plenty to do, yet it mex card phones in each corner.
© Lonely Planet Publications
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
h24hr) Near the Convento de Sisal, it handles cenotes is Cenote Zací (Calle 36, enter from Calle 39;
emergencies. admission US$1.50; h8am-6pm), set in a park that
Main post office (h8:30am-3pm Mon-Fri) On the east also holds traditional stone-walled thatched
side of the plaza. houses and a small zoo. People swim in
Tourist office (%856-1865; h9am-8:30pm Mon- Zací, though being mostly open it has some
Sat, 9am-noon Sun) On the east side of the plaza, it is dust and algae. Look in the water for catfish
frequently unattended and provides mediocre information, or overhead for a bat or two.
but you can pick up maps and enjoy the photographs of A bit more enticing but less accessible
Valladolid on display. is Cenote Dzitnup (Xkekén; adult/child US$2.50/150;
h 8am-5pm), 7km west of the plaza. It’s
Sights artificially lit and very swimmable, and a
TEMPLO DE SAN BERNARDINO & massive limestone formation dripping with
CONVENTO DE SISAL stalactites hangs from its ceiling. Across the
The Church of San Bernardino de Siena (h8am- road about 100m closer to town is Cenote
noon & 5-9pm) and the Convent of Sisal are Samulá (adult/child US$2.50/1.50; h 8am-6pm), a
about 700m southwest of the plaza. They lovely cavern pool with álamo roots stretch-
were constructed between 1552 and 1560 ing down many meters from the middle of
to serve the dual functions of fortress and the ceiling to drink from it. At last pass,
church. Samulá was more appealing than Dzitnup,
You may have to knock on the church’s which was roughed up a bit by Hurricane
left-hand door to gain admittance, or some- Isidore. The ejido (indigenous communal
one may approach and offer you a short landholding) that maintains both cenotes
tour in exchange for a gratuity. Either way, charges US$3 for use of a video camera in
it’s worth peeking inside. Its charming either one.
decoration includes beautiful rose-colored Pedaling a rented bicycle (see p202) to
walls, arches, some recently uncovered the cenotes takes about 20 minutes. By
16th-century frescoes and a small image of bike from the center of town take Calle
the Virgin on the altar. These are about the 41A (Calzada de los Frailes), a street lined
only original items remaining; the grand entirely with colonial architecture, which
wooden retablo (altarpiece) dates from leads past the Templo de San Bernardino
the 19th century. The adjacent convent is and the convent. Keep to the right of the
often closed to the public; your best bets park, then turn right on Calle 49. This
of gaining entrance to it are during the vac- opens into tree-lined Avenida de los Frailes
ation periods of Easter Week, August and and hits the old highway. Turn left onto the
Christmas (December 14 to January 6). It’s ciclopista (bike path) paralleling the road
well worth a visit. The walled grounds hold to Mérida. Turn left again at the sign for
a cenote with a vaulted dome built over it Dzitnup and continue for just under 2km;
and a system of channels that once irrigated Samulá will be off this road to the right and
the large garden. Dzitnup a little further on the left.
If you’re arriving by bicycle, note that Shared vans from in front of Hotel María
it’s prohibited to ride on the wide con- Guadalupe (on Calle 44) go to Dzitnup for
crete paths leading from the street to the US$1. Taxis from Valladolid’s main plaza
church. charge US$10 for the round-trip excursion
© Lonely Planet Publications
0 400 m
VALLADOLID 0 0.2 miles
A B C D
To Ek Balam (27.5km);
INFORMATION Tizimín (51km);
Cancún (toll, 158km); Calle 31
Banamex (ATM)......................1 C3 Mérida (toll, 160km)
Bancomer................................2 C2
1 Cyber Centro...........................3 B2
Hospital Valladolid...................4 A4
ὈὈ Ὀ
Phonet.....................................5 C2 Calle 33
Post Office...............................6 C2
Calle 40
Tourist Office..........................7 C3
Calle 34
Iglesia de la 12
Candelaria
Calle 35
Ὀ
Park
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
Calle 44
Calle 38
Calle 36
To Mercado
Calle 42
20 Municipal
Calle 37 (50m)
29
Calle 37
Calle 48
Ὀ Ὀ
Mérida (160km) 18
25 14 9
28
22 31 13 19
Calle 39
3 32 15 Parque 6
26 Francisco 2 Iglesia
5 Cantón Santa
30 Ana
Rosado
16 24 7 10 Park
ὈὈ
27 Calle 41
21 1 8 23
2
17 To Cancún
Calle 46
Calle 5
(158km)
0
To Felipe Carrillo
Calle 5
) Puerto (175km)
les
F rai Calle 43
3 los SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Calle 43 e
A ad Catedral de San Gervasio.........8 C3 Panificadora La Conchita........21 B3
ad
ὈὈ
alz Cenote Zací.............................9 D2 Squimoz.................................22 B2
(C
41A Convento de Sisal................(see 11)
lle Museo de San Roque.............10 D3 Calle 45
ENTERTAINMENT
Ca
Templo de San Bernardino.....11 A4 Café Kabáh ...........................23 C3
La Chispa de 1910.................24 C3
SLEEPING
Alberque La Candelaria..........12 C2 TRANSPORT
Park
El Mesón del Marqués...........13 C2 ADO Bus Terminal.................
Calle 47 25 B2
Ca
11 lle Hotel Lili................................14 C2 Antonio Negro Aguilar...........26 C2
47
Hotel María de la Luz.............15 C2 Colectivos to Cancún.............27 C3
4 Hotel María Guadalupe..........16 C3 Colectivos to Mérida............(see 25)
To Ca Hotel San Clemente...............17 C3 Colectivos to Pisté &
4 lle
Bike Path (100m); 49 Hotel Zací...............................18 B2 Chichén Itzá.......................
Calle 49
28 B2
2
48
Ca
A
Ca
48
Book
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. l o n e l y p l a n e online
t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • Va l l a d o l i d 201
trash can on the side. The 36 dorm beds El Mesón del Marqués (%856-2073; fax 856-
are in eight and 10-bed rooms (single-sex 2280; www.mesondelmarques.com; Calle 39 No 203; s/d/tr
and mixed), and the four double rooms US$51/62/72; as) The most expensive hotel
have shared bathrooms. The owners rent in town, this place seems to be constantly
bicycles to guests for US$1 an hour, arrange expanding behind its colonial façade. All
tours and provide loads of information on rooms have air-con and are decently ap-
the area, both for sightseers and those seek- pointed, but the deluxe ‘junior suites’ in the
ing cultural insights. Note that sometimes older, rear wing are much nicer and offer
the park square can be noisy, so bring ear- far better value. The hotel has a charming
plugs if a festival is going on. old courtyard with a swimming pool and
Hotel María Guadalupe (%856-2068; hotelmaria wi-fi. Just be sure you DO NOT touch the
[email protected]; Calle 44 No 198A; d/tr US$20/25) fruit!
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
This airy, green hotel has eight simple and
clean fan-cooled rooms, which though a Eating
bit dark are not musty. The beds should Bazar Municipal (cnr Calles 39 & 40) This place is a
be getting new mattresses, and the man- collection of market-style cookshops at the
agement is friendly and provides purified plaza’s northeast corner, popular for their
water. Potted plants add cheer, and there’s big, cheap breakfasts. At lunch and dinner
a nice common area upstairs to meet fel- some offer comidas corridas (set meals) –
low travelers or sip something cold after check the price before you order. El Amigo
a hot day. Casiano on the left side nearly at the back,
Hotel Zací (%/fax 856-2167; Calle 44 No 191; s/ is good, super-cheap and always crowded;
d/tr/q with fan US$23/32/40, with air-con US$32/38/43; it’s closed for the day by 2pm. Lonchería
as) Someone here really loves Calla lil- Canul, at the very back, stays open much
ies. The 50 rooms with mock-colonial décor later and serves good food accompanied
are spread around a green courtyard. Some by tasty salsas.
rooms are a bit musty, but they air out. La Casa del Café-Kaffé (%856-2879; Calle 44;
Hotel Lili (%856-2163; Calle 44 No 192 btwn Calles dishes US$2-4.50; h8am-1pm & 6:30pm-2am) It’s a
37 & 39; s/d/tr with fan US$16/22/33, with air-con d/tr café that serves organic coffee, espresso,
US$30/36-38; a) A great little find just around cappuccino and other variations, as well as
the corner from the main plaza, the Lili Chilean-style empanadas (baked, not fried;
has fresh-smelling rooms with tile floors, think pasties with minced meat and egg),
spacious bathrooms, and rates that are dis- hotcakes and egg dishes. It has indoor and
counted if you bring your own hammock. outdoor seating on the pleasant Parque La
Candelaria.
MIDRANGE Hostería del Marqués (%856-2073; Calle 39 No
The hotels listed here have restaurants, free 203; mains US$5-13; h7am-11pm) Probably the
secure parking facilities and swimming best restaurant in town for lunch and din-
pools. ner, it is in Hotel El Mesón del Marqués.
Hotel San Clemente (% /fax 856-2208; www You can dine in the tranquil colonial court-
.hotelsanclemente.com.mx; Calle 42 No 206; s/d/tr/q yard with its bubbling fountain, or the air-
US$35/40/46/55; as) Offers good value and con salon looking onto it. The restaurant
boasts 64 rooms with air-con and décor also offers some vegetarian choices, and
nearly identical to the Zací’s, minus the steaks priced by weight.
Calla lilies. It’s on the corner of the plaza, Squimoz (%856-4156; Calle 39 No 219 btwn Calles
across from the cathedral, and also has a 44 & 46; mains US$2-5; h7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 7am-3pm
pool and central courtyard. Sun) A delightful little shop just a few doors
Hotel María de la Luz (%/fax 856-2071; www east of the ADO terminal, Squimoz offers
.mariadelaluzhotel.com; Calle 42 No 193; d/tr/q US$38/ cakes, pastries, good espresso drinks, and
42/45; as) At the northwest corner of the has a nice rear courtyard. Its rich, creamy
plaza, it offers good value for money with flan is some of Yucatán’s best.
serviceable air-con rooms around an excel- Valladolid has a few good bakeries, in-
lent pool. The restaurant puts on a buffet cluding Panificadora La Conchita (Calle 41 btwn
breakfast for US$5, and has margaritas that Calles 44 & 46; breads US$0.20-1; h 7am-noon &
(at least initially) pack a punch. 4-9pm).
© Lonely Planet Publications
1am) A good hangout for ice cream and The turnoff for this fascinating archaeologi-
coffee, with slightly pricey dinners on the cal site (admission US$2.40; h8am-5pm) is 17km
menu as well. north of Valladolid. Ek’ Balam is another
10.5km east of this. There is usually some-
Getting There & Away one at the site willing to act as a guide;
BUS tips are appreciated. Don’t confuse them
Valladolid’s main bus station is the con- with the cenote tour touts, who offer a fun
venient ADO terminal (cnr Calles 39 & 46). The (but totally different) two-hour trip that
principal services are Oriente, Mayab and includes biking, rappelling, and snorkeling
Expresso (2nd class) and ADO and Super for about US$10 per person.
Expresso (1st class). Vegetation still covers much of the area,
Cancún US$7-11, two to three hours; but excavations and restoration continue to
many buses add to the sights, including an interesting
Chetumal US$13, six hours; five Mayab buses ziggurat-like structure near the entrance, as
Chichén Itzá/Pisté US$2, 45 minutes; 14 Oriente well as a fine arch and a ball court.
Mérida-bound buses between 7:15am and 5:30pm, Most impressive is the gargantuan Acrópo-
stop near ruins during opening hours lis, whose well-restored base is 160m long
Chiquilá (for Isla Holbox) US$6.60, 2½ hours; and holds a ‘gallery,’ actually a series of
Oriente bus at 2:45am separate chambers. Built atop the base is
Cobá US$2-2.50, 45 minutes; four buses Ek’ Balam’s massive main pyramid, reach-
Izamal US$4, two hours; three buses at 12:45pm, ing a height of 32m and sporting a huge
3:50pm, and 5pm. jaguar mouth with 360-degree dentition.
Mérida US$7-11, two to three hours; Below the mouth are stucco skulls, while
many buses above and to the right sits an amazingly
Playa del Carmen US$7.40-13.30, 2½ to 3½ hours; expressive figure. On the right side stand
eight buses unusual winged human figures (some call
Tizimín US$1.70, one hour; 12 buses them Maya angels), whose hands are poised
Tulum US$4.50-5, two hours; six buses in gestures looking for all the world like
Hindu/Buddhist mudras. It’s enough to
COLECTIVOS make you wonder, either about connections
Often faster, more reliable and more between ancient civilizations or the artis-
comfortable than 2nd-class buses are the tic license taken by the restoration crew,
shared vans that leave for various points as though much of the plaster is supposed to
soon as their seats are filled. Most operate be original.
from 7am or 8am to about 7pm. Direct The view from the top of the pyramid
ser vices to Mérida (from Calle 39, US$5) is fantastic as well. Across the flat terrain
and Cancún (from in front of the cathedral, you can make out the pyramids of Chichén
US$6) take a little over two hours – con- Itzá and Cobá.
firm they’re nonstop, though. Colectivos for
Pisté and Chichén Itzá (US$2, 40 minutes) Sleeping & Eating
leave across the road from the bus termi- There’s really only one option in the tiny
nal, and for Tizimín from the east side of pueblo of Ek’ Balam itself, but luckily, it’s
the plaza. a good one.
© Lonely Planet Publications
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t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • Ti z i m í n 203
Genesis Eco-Retreat (% 985-852-7980; www sides of Calle 51, reached by walking two
.genesisretreat.com; d US$35-50; ins) With blocks south on Calle 48, which itself is a
colorfully named cabanas such as ‘Hob- block west of the bus terminals.
bit’ or ‘Yuya,’ the Genesis Eco-Retreat The church fronts Tizimín’s main plaza,
offers B&B intimacy in a quiet, animal- the Parque Principal, which has a HBSC
friendly setting. The pools are beautiful, with ATM and currency exchange on its
with sculpted natural accents, and is a true southwest side. Bancomer (cnr Calles 48 & 51), be-
eco-tel: gray water is used for landscap- hind the church, also has an ATM. Internet
ing, some rooms are naturally cooled, in- cafés with dial-up or DSL connections have
sects are naturally controlled (this author sprung up on the streets around the Parque
didn’t have to slap once), and there’s even Principal.
an entire wall made out of plastic bottles.
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
The place is postcard beautiful, with deli- Sleeping & Eating
cious meals. Animal lovers will appreciate Posada María Antonia (%863-2384; fax 863-2857;
the kind efforts Lee, the owner, has made Calle 50 No 408; r with air-con US$21; a) Just south
to not only house stray dogs, but sponsor of the church, it has 12 fairly basic rooms,
animal-related education programs in the each holding up to four people. Take a
community. peek at the room first, as it’s likely the very
basic bathrooms won’t have a toilet seat,
Getting There & Away and some rooms are a bit heavy on the air-
It’s possible to catch a colectivo from Calle freshener. You can place international calls
44 between Calles 35 and 37 in Valladolid at the reception desk.
for the village of Santa Rita (US$1), a safe Pizzería César’s (Calle 50; mains US$5-10 steaks
2km walk from Ek’ Balam; you may even be US$12-18; h8am-midnight) A popular joint near
able to get the driver to go the rest of the the Posada María Antonia, it serves inex-
way for a just a little bit extra. The return pensive pasta, sandwiches and burgers in
service leaves Santa Rita at 3pm or 4pm. A addition to pizza and steak.
round-trip taxi ride from Valladolid with The market (cnr Calles 47 & 48), half a block
an hour’s wait at the ruins will cost around west of the Noreste terminal, has the usual
US$20. cheap eateries.
RÍO LAGARTOS
FLAMINGO ETIQUETTE
%986 / pop 3060
On the windy northern shore of the pen- Although the sight of flamingos taking to
insula, sleepy Río Lagartos (Alligator River) the wing is impressive, for the well-being
is a fishing village that also boasts the dens- of the birds, please ask your boat captain
est concentration of flamingos in Mexico, not to frighten the birds into flight. You can
supposedly two or three flamingos per generally get to within 100m of the birds
Mexican, if one believes the math. Lying before they walk or fly away.
within the Reserva de la Biósfera Ría Lagartos,
this mangrove-lined estuary also shelters
334 other species of resident and migratory You can negotiate with one of the eager
birds, including snowy egrets, red egrets, men in the waterfront kiosks near the en-
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
tiger herons and snowy white ibis, as well trance to town; it’s nearly impossible to get
as a small number of the once-numerous through town without being approached
crocodiles that gave the town its name. It’s a by someone. They speak English and will
beautiful area. At the right time of year you connect you with a captain (who usually
can see numerous species of birds without doesn’t). The best guides are to be found at
even getting out of your vehicle. Restaurante-Bar Isla Contoy (%862-0000); driv-
The Maya knew the place as Holkobén ing into town, turn left on Calle 19 at the
and used it as a rest stop on their way to Las sign for the restaurant-bar. From the bus
Coloradas, a shallow part of the vast estuary terminal, head to the water and turn left
that stretches east almost to the border of (west).
Quintana Roo. There they extracted pre- If time permits, seek out Ismael Navarro
cious salt from the waters, a process that (% 862-0000; www.riolagartosexpeditions.com) or
continues on a much vaster scale today. Diego Núñez Martínez (%862-0452; diego2909@
Spanish explorers mistook the narrowing yahoo.com), two licensed guides with formal
of the ría (estuary) for a río (river) and the training as naturalists. They speak English,
crocs for alligators, and the rest is history. Spanish and Italian and are up to date on
Less than 1km east of town, on the edge the area’s fauna and flora, including the
of the estuary, a natural ojo de agua dulce staggering number of bird species, for
(natural spring) has been developed into a which they have books and the official Yu-
swimming hole. A sometimes empty tour- catán Peninsula checklist. They often help
ist kiosk sits at the end of Calle 10 by the visiting scientists and are founts of knowl-
waterfront. edge on the area.
Besides their flamingo expeditions,
Flamingo, Shorebird & Wildlife Tours Ismael takes four-hour shorebird tours
The brilliant orange-red flamingos can along the mudflats in winter. Diego takes
turn the horizon fiery when they take wing. catch-and-release fly fishing trips for tar-
Depending on your luck, you’ll see either pon and snook, and can help with lodgings
hundreds or thousands of them. The best reservations. Both also offer land tours for
months for viewing them are June to Au- birding as well as night rides looking for
gust. The four primary haunts, in increas- crocodiles and, from May to September,
ing distance from town, are Punta Garza, sea turtles.
Yoluk, Necopal and Nahochín (all flamingo
feeding spots named for nearby mangrove Festivals & Events
patches). La Feria de Santiago, the patron saint festival
To see the flamingos, you’ll need to rent of Río Lagartos, is held mid July. A bull-
a boat and driver. Prices vary by boat, group fight (really bullplay) ring is erected in the
size (maximum five) and destination. The middle of town during the weeklong event,
lowest you can expect to pay is around and every afternoon anyone who wishes is
US$75. In addition, the reserve charges vis- able to enter it and play matador with a
itors a US$2 admission fee (it’s rumored to young bull. The animal is not killed or even
rise to US$4). Plan on packing something injured, just made a little angry at times.
to eat the night before, as most restaurants Don’t turn your back to it or it will knock
open long after you’ll be on the water. you down.
© Lonely Planet Publications
Book
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. l o n e l y p l a n e online
t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com EASTERN YUCATÁN STATE •• East of Río Lagar tos 205
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
and so on). ice is so-so, and no toilet seats will make
The fair begins the Saturday prior to July some of you want to search elsewhere.
25, Patron Saint Day, and lasts at least a Isla Contoy co-op (%862-0000; r US$25-35) Has
week. If the Saturday before July 25 falls on five simple, fan-cooled rooms, with ham-
July 23 or July 24, then the celebration actu- mock hooks or beds, and both hot and cold
ally begins two Saturdays before the 25th. water.
The festival always lasts at least a week, but Hotel Villas de Pescadores (%862-0020; Calle 14
never more than nine days. Yes, it’s confus- & Calle 9; d fan/air-con US$40/50; a) This is two
ing, and the residents of Río Lagartos don’t blocks north of the Leyli, near the water’s
always follow this rule. edge, and offers 12 very clean rooms, each
Another big annual event in Río Lagartos with good cross-ventilation (all face the es-
is the Día de la Marina (Day of the Marine tuary), two beds and a fan. Upstairs rooms
Force), which is always June 1. On this day, have balconies, and there’s a rickety spiral
following 9am Mass, a crown of flowers is staircase leading up to a rooftop lookout
dedicated to the Virgin and is carried from tower where adventurous guests can (care-
the church to a boat, where it is then taken ful on those stairs!) watch the sun set or
4km out to sea and placed in the water as sip a relaxing beverage. Guests planning on
an offering to all the fishermen who have an early morning flamingo trip can ask for
perished at sea. breakfast to be prepared before they head
What’s remarkable about this is that vir- off, an additional US$3.50 to US$6. The
tually every boat in this fishing town goes owner rents bicycles and canoes as well;
to the sea site, and scores of fishermen sing if he’s not around, ask for his neighbor,
en route to the honored site and pray there Benigno.
before a selected queen lays the gorgeous Restaurante-Bar Isla Contoy (Calle 19; mains
wreath in the water. For one minute after US$5-10; h8am-9pm) A popular eatery at the
the wreath is placed in the water, there is waterfront, this is a good place to meet
a moment of total silence in honor of the other travelers and form groups for the
lost fishermen. After the service, everyone boat tours. Lobster, at market price, is a
heads back to town and celebrates with delicious specialty.
dancing, drinking and games. The queen
dances with every fisherman to bring him Getting There & Away
good luck. Several Noreste buses run daily between
The boats, not incidentally, are heavily Tizimín (US$2.20, one hour), Mérida
decorated on this day, and tourists are wel- (US$11, three to four hours) and San Felipe
come to ride to the site for free. Just ask if (US$0.50, 20 minutes). Noreste and Mayab
you can go, and be friendly and respectful. also serve Cancún (US$12, three to four
At the sea service, keep your chatter to a hours) three times daily.
minimum and simply observe. Doing so
will encourage the fishermen to welcome EAST OF RÍO LAGARTOS
tourists to join them year after year. A tip Hurricane Wilma wiped out stretches of
for their kindness, following the service, the beachside road that used to connect
is always appreciated (US$5 to US$10 per Río Lagartos with El Cuyo; sections of it re-
visitor). main, and birders with binoculars, spotting
© Lonely Planet Publications
scopes, or large telephoto lenses can get at the first paved road, heading toward
nice sightings of various species (including Yoactún. Follow this through savanna-
flamingos) by toodling around, particularly like grassy ranchland until you come to a
east of Las Coloradas. If you do stop to T-junction at Colonia Yucatán. Head left
observe wildlife, be as quiet as possible and (north) and you’ll arrive in El Cuyo.
remember that there are crocodiles in the At El Cuyo the road passes through
shallows and venomous snakes; don’t let broad expanses of grassy savanna with
that great Roseate Spoonbill photo oppor- palms and some huge-trunked trees, pass-
tunity send you to the hospital. Most of ing the site of the original founding of Val-
the bird life is shy, and you should try to ladolid, in 1543. At Colonia Yucatán, a little
avoid making flocks panic, which can cause over 30km south of El Cuyo, you can head
injuries to the birds. east to pick up the road to Chiquilá and
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
If you have a car, turning east at the Isla Holbox (or in the opposite direction
junction about 2km south of Río Lagartos to Hwy 180) or west to Tizimín. Public
will lead you to some interesting sights. transportation through all of this is scarce.
About 8km from the junction, on the Hitchhiking may be possible, but a rental
south side of the road, is the beginning of car is by far the better way to go.
a 1km interpretive trail to Petén Tucha (a
petén is a hummock or rise often forming SAN FELIPE
around a spring, and rich in diverse flora %986 / pop 1800
and fauna). You should register at the bio- This is a fishing village seldom visited by
sphere reserve’s office near the junction travelers about 12km west of Río Lagartos,
before walking the trail. notable for its orderly streets and painted
Continuing east on the road 4km beyond wooden houses. Getting there you’ll pass
the trailhead you’ll reach a bridge over a primarily swampy mangrove-dotted la-
very narrow part of the estuary. Fisher- goons, and perhaps surprise a turtle or two
men cast nets here, and you can sometimes crossing the road. San Felipe makes a nice
see crocs lurking in the water (look for day or overnight trip. Its beach lies across
dead horseshoe crabs on the bridge). An- the mouth of the estuary, at Punta Holo-
other 6km beyond this is Las Coloradas, a hit, and the mangroves there and on the
small town housing workers who extract western edge of town are a bird-watcher’s
salt from the vast shallow lagoons of the paradise. Just looking out the windows of
same name that stretch eastward for kilo- the town’s one hotel you can see white and
meters on the south side of the road. The brown pelicans, terns, cormorants, great
salt is piled in gleaming mounds that look blue herons, magnificent frigate birds and
like icebergs, up to 15m high, and from a jabirus (storks).
distance it appears oddly incongruous, as The beach, though not great, usually has
if you’ve arrived in the Arctic despite the palapas providing shade (when we visited,
blistering heat. they and most of the mangroves’ leaves were
The road turns to sand after Las Colora- gone with the wind of Isidore). Lancheros
das, but you can no longer go all the way to charge US$4 per boatload (round trip) to
El Cuyo (also something of a local resort in take passengers across, or US$15 an hour
summer). The area is rich in bird life, and for fishing trips.
the unique vegetation includes many century At the corner of Calles 12 and 13 is a
plants, an agave species that lives quietly for simple shed (Internet per hr US$0.80) with five or
decades before a last hurrah of sending up six computers with dialup connections. It is
a tall stalk with blossoms and then expiring. run by a very kind young man with a health
These are different from the henequen aga- problem and this café helps him support
ves that you see further south. If you’re not himself. If you stay for a bit his relatives
in a 4WD drive with care and turn around may come out to say hi and ask you where
long before you think you might get stuck; you’re from. The short walk to the shed
chances are you’ll have to walk back to Las passes by the sand-washed houses and is
Coloradas if there’s a problem. well worth it.
You reach El Cuyo by heading back to- Alternatively, try Cyberbillar (per hr US$1;
wards Tizimín and then turning left (east) h3pm-10pm), which is near the bus termi-
© Lonely Planet Publications
nal, a smoky place popular with gaming ventilation; the large upper ones are espe-
school kids. cially good bargains. The restaurant offers
Hotel San Felipe de Jesús (%862-2027; hotelsf@ tasty seafood at low prices.
hotmail.com; d US$29-35, tr US$33-41) is a friendly, Six buses from Tizimín pass through
clean and cleverly constructed hotel at the Río Lagartos and continue to San Felipe
edge of San Felipe’s harbor. To get there, (US$2.20, 1½ hours) each way. The bus
turn left at the water and proceed about ride from Río Lagartos (US$0.50) takes 20
200m. Six of the 18 rooms are large and minutes. You can take a taxi from Tizimín
have private balconies and water views; bal- to San Felipe for US$20, but you may need
conies in the top-floor rooms are reached to arrange return pickup in advance or pay
by their own staircases inside the room. the driver an hourly rate to wait until you’re
All rooms have fans and enjoy good cross- ready to return.
Y U C AT Á N S TAT E
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
208
Campeche State
The least visited of the Yucatán’s states, Campeche holds a wealth of attractions whose rela-
tive obscurity only adds to their appeal. In the dense southern jungle the state shares with
Guatemala, ongoing excavation has unearthed some of the peninsula’s most spellbinding
Maya ruins, which are often yours to admire in solitude. In the villages of the northeastern
Chenes region, you’ll hear Maya being spoken by women garbed in huipiles (traditional
embroidered robes) or you might encounter villagers setting up elaborate altars to the god
Chac to ensure the rains come on time.
Wildlife watchers can witness the acrobatic antics of spider monkeys swinging from branch
to branch, spot rainbow-beaked toucans from a pyramid perch, or greet giant marine turtles
as they lumber ashore to lay eggs after traveling thousands of kilometers. Campeche offers
protected coastal wetlands areas and, inland, the Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul, Mexico’s
largest biosphere reserve.
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
Within the ancient walls of the capital, one could spend weeks exploring the vast array of
colonial architecture, absorbing history in the numerous museums and partaking of a lively
cultural life attending concerts on the plaza or dancing cumbias at various festivals. And
although (or perhaps because) Campeche’s Gulf coast is known more for oil and seafood
than recreation, beachcombers find little competition for its shell-strewn sands and shallow,
aquamarine waters, where ‘tourism infrastructure’ consists of a hammock strung under the
shade of an enramada (palm-frond canopy) and a cocktail of shrimp and oysters just pulled
out of an adjacent lagoon.
Perhaps the state’s greatest resource, from the visitor’s perspective, is its people, the
campechanos. The word campechano can mean ‘straightforward’ or ‘good-natured,’ and
even by Mexican standards the inhabitants of this corner of the peninsula are considered
especially welcoming and gregarious.
HIGHLIGHTS
Focusing your binoculars on treetop toucans from atop the pyramids Bécal
of Calakmul (p230)
Strolling alongside Campeche’s pirate-proof baluartes (walls; Campeche
p211) at sunset Hochob
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
cal legacy. Avenida Circuito Baluartes, which rings
Besides the numerous mansions built by the city center as the walls once did. In
wealthy Spanish families during Campeche’s the classic colonial plan, the center is sur-
heyday in the 18th and 19th centuries, two rounded by barrios (neighborhoods), each
segments of the city’s famous wall have also with its own church and square. Particu-
survived, as have no fewer than seven of larly charming are San Román, Guadalupe
the baluartes (bastions or bulwarks) that and Santa Ana.
were built into it. Two perfectly preserved The streets in the central grid follow
colonial forts guard the city’s outskirts, one a numbered sequence: inland-oriented
of them housing the Museo de la Arquitec- streets have odd numbers and perpendicu-
tura Maya, an archaeological museum with lar ones even.
world-class pieces. A multilane boulevard with bicycle and
Adding to Campeche’s charm is its loca- pedestrian paths extends along Campeche’s
tion on the Gulf of Mexico. A broad water- shoreline, from the San Miguel fort (Fuerte
front boulevard is ideal for cloud- and de San Miguel) in the southwest to the San
sunset-watching; add a thunderstorm roll- José fort in the northeast. Graced by a series
ing in off the Gulf and you have a sound- of historical monuments, the boulevard is
and-light show nonpareil. In clear weather, commonly referred to as La Costera or el
sunsets bathe the colonial center in soft, malecón (waterfront promenade), though
diffused light. By night the charm is further the stretch closest to the city center is
enhanced by the yellow-hued floodlights officially named Avenida Adolfo Ruiz
that illuminate the cathedral and other Cortínez.
landmarks.
INFORMATION
HISTORY Internet Access
Once a Maya trading village called Ah Kim All of the hostels and quite a few hotels
Pech (Lord Sun Sheep-Tick), Campeche provide online services, and ‘cibers’ abound
was first briefly approached by the Span- in the Centro.
iards in 1517. Resistance by the Maya pre- Centro de Diversiones El Centro (Calle 55 No 41; per
vented the Spaniards from fully conquering hr US$1.50; h9am-2am)
the region for nearly a quarter-century. Compufast (Calle 10 No 280; per hr US$0.80; h9am-
Colonial Campeche was founded in 1531, 9pm) Doubles as a long-distance phone facility.
210 C A M P E C H E • • I n f o r m a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com
Grupo Penta (Calle 59 No 327 btwn Calles 10 & 12; per Money
hr US$1; h8:30am-9pm) Campeche has numerous banks with ATMs,
open 8am to 4pm Monday to Friday, 9am
Laundry to 2pm Saturday.
Same-day laundry service is available at the
following locations. Post
Lavandería Antigua (Calle 57 btwn Calles 12 & 14; per Central post office (cnr Av 16 de Septiembre & Calle 53;
kilo US$1.50; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) h8:30am-3:30pm Mon-Fri)
Lave Klin (Av Circuito Baluartes Norte 66; per kilo
US$1.25; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat) Tourist Information
Coordinación Municipal de Turismo (%811-3989;
Medical Services www.ayuntamientodecampeche.gob.mx; Calle 55 No 3;
In an emergency, call one of these. h9am-9pm) Next to the cathedral, the municipal tourist
Cruz Roja (Red Cross; %815-2411; Av Las Palmas cnr office is the more useful of the two info centers.
Ah Kim Pech) Secretaría de Turismo (%816-6767; Plaza Moch
ᝲᝲ
Hospital Dr Manuel Campos (%811-1709; Av Circuito Couoh; h9am-9pm) Service is inconsistent here though
Baluartes Norte btwn Calles 14 & 16) staff will gladly hand you some brochures.
ᝲᝲ
0 80 km
CAMPECHE STATE 0 50 miles
92ºW 91ºW 90ºW Sisal 89ºW
ᝲᝲ
Dzibilchaltún Conkal Motul
MÉRIDA
21ºN 21ºN
Celestún
International Acanceh
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
ᝲᝲ
Reserva Airport
de la MEX
18
Biósfera 180
Ría Celestún To Valladolid
(130km)
La Costa Ruinas de
Bécal Mayapán
Ticul
Calkiní Uxmal Kabah
c
uu
Hecelchakán P MEX
R ut a 184
Bolonchén
20ºN Gulf of de Rejón
Tenabo
MEX Grutas de 20ºN
Mexico 180
MEX
261 X'tacumbilxuna'an
CAMPECHE San
MEX
261
Antonio
Tohcok Yucatán
Cayal
China Hopelchén
Ich-Ek
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Seybaplaya Iturbide
Pakchén Dzibilnocac
MEX
261 Edzná El Tabasqueño
Simochac Pich Dzibalchén
Chencoh Hochob
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Champotón
Xmaben
Bahía de
ὅὅ
MEX Ucum
Campeche
Quintana Roo
ὅὅ
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Reserva
19ºN MEX
261 de la
Sabancuy Biósfera 19ºN
Calakmul
Puerto Isla
Real Aguada
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
To Villahermosa Isla del
(91km) Carmen Laguna Zoh-Laguna
MEX Atasta de MEX
To
180 Ciudad del Escárcega 186 Balamkú
Términos Xpuhil Chetumal
Carmen
Río
Zacatal Becán
Xpujil (108km)
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Conhuas
Sa
Chicanná
n
o
did
MEX
on
186
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲᝲᝲᝲ
sc
Candelaria
oE
El Tigre Laguna
18ºN Misteriosa Reserva de la
ek
Biósfera 18ºN
Rí
re
Ciudad Ca Calakmul
o
e C
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
BELIZE
Pemex nd
ela
Blu
To Villahermosa Emiliano
Catazajá Zapata ria
(45km)
MEX Parque Nacional Mirador-
186
To Palenque Reserva de la GUATEMALA Dos Lagunas-Río Azul
Chiapas (20km) 91ºW Biósfera Maya 90ºW 89ºW O
www.lonelyplanet.com C A M P E C H E • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s 211
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
occupied by shops and restaurants. venue for a sound-and-light show (p219).
Designed to protect the Puerta del Mar,
Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la the Baluarte de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad was
Purísima Concepción the largest of the bastions completed in the
Dominating the plaza’s east side is the two- late 1600s. Appropriately, it was named for
towered cathedral (admission free; h7am-noon & the patron saint of sailors. This bulwark
4-6pm). The limestone structure has stood on contains the fascinating Museo de la Arqui-
this spot for more than three centuries, and tectura Maya (admission US$2.25, free Sun; h8am-
it still fills beyond capacity most Sundays. 7:30pm Tue-Sun), the one must-see museum in
Statues of St Peter and St Paul occupy niches Campeche. It provides an excellent overview
in the baroque façade; the sober, single-nave of the sites around Campeche state and the
interior is lined with colonial-era paintings. key architectural styles associated with them.
Five halls display stelae taken from various
Centro Cultural Casa Número 6 sites, accompanied by graphic representa-
During the pre-revolutionary era, when the tions of their carved inscriptions with brief
mansion was occupied by an upper-class commentaries in flawless English.
campechano family, ‘Number Six’ (Calle 57 No 6; Completed in 1704 – the last of the bul-
admission free; h9am-9pm) was a prestigious warks to be built – the Baluarte de Santiago
plaza address. Wandering the premises, (Calle 8 at Calle 49; admission free; h9am-4pm) houses
you’ll get an idea of how the city’s high the Jardín Botánico Xmuch Haltún, a botanical
society lived back then. The front sitting garden with numerous endemic plants.
room is furnished with Cuban pieces of the Named after Spain’s King Carlos II, the
period. Inside are exhibition spaces and a Baluarte de San Carlos houses the recently
good bookstore. Lectures (in Spanish) pro- renovated Museo de la Ciudad (Calle 8 btwn Calles 63
filing the former residents are presented at & 65; admission US$2.25; h8am-7:30pm Tue-Sun). This
7pm on Saturday and Sunday evenings. small but worthwhile museum chronologi-
cally illustrates the city’s tempestuous his-
Baluartes tory via well-displayed objects: specimens
After a particularly blistering pirate assault of dyewood, muskets, a figurehead from
in 1663 (see p213), the remaining inhabit- a ship’s prow and the like. The dungeon
ants of Campeche set about erecting protec- downstairs alludes to the building’s use as
tive walls around their city. Built largely by a military prison during the 1700s.
212 C A M P E C H E • • C a m p e c h e www.lonelyplanet.com
0 300 m
CAMPECHE 0 0.2 miles
A B C 30 D
To Novia del Mar (20m);
INFORMATION Hospital Dr Manuel Campos......9 D3 Parador Gastronómico
Banamex (ATM).........................1 C3 INEGI.......................................10 A3 de Cocteleros (3km);
Banco Santander Mexicano Lavandería La Antigua.............11 C3 Piratas stadium (3km);
Mérida (toll road, 177km)
1 (ATM)....................................2 B2 Lave Klin..................................12 D3
Bital (ATM)................................3 C3 Scotibank (ATM)......................13 B3
Central Post Office....................4 C2 Secretaría de Turismo...............14 A3 Centro de
Convenciones
Centro de Diversiones El Centro..5 C3 Campeche XXI
Compufast.................................6 A3 a
nd
Coordinación Municipal de B ara 61
de
Turismo..................................7 B2 z
S ain
Grupo Penta...............................8 B3 ro
P ed Av Adolfo Ruiz Cortínez
Av
ὈὈὈὈ
To Fuerte de
San José (2.5km)
32
Gulf of Mexico
4 18 To Plazuela de
Av
San Francisco (650m);
2
Ale
) Cenaduría Portales (650m)
este
má
42 O
tes
th
uar
ὈὈ n
46
Pa
t o Bal 8 52
ke
i lle
Ciriaco Vázquez
40 i r c u a
Bi
C Parque de C
e ( Av
2 br las Banderas Parque del
ez iem 25 IV Centenario
ept
r tín
6 d eS 27 19 7 10
Co v 1 a lle
z A C
26 Rui Plaza Plaza
Av Cir
20 1
l fo Moch-Couoh Plaza de la 34 Principal
ὈὈ
47
do República 49
Al 14 13 12
cuito
21 37 3
Ca
lle
Av Palacio de 60 5 Ca 36
lle
Gobierno 53 48 59 14
51
Balua
55 51 lle
Ca
Cal
58 56 50
39 54
le 5
31 Iglesia
rtes N
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
3 28 35 Dulce
3
Ca
Palacio 8
10 Municipal Nombre 9
lle
orte
de Jesús
ὈὈ ὈὈὈ
55
12
Ca
To Solé (1km)
lle
Fuerte de San 6
57
Miguel (3.5km);
Ca
Cuidad del 43
lle
22 41
Carmen (free
59
Ca
route, 237km) 44
lle
24 11 23
Paseo de
61
Ca
los Héroes
Av Circuito Baluartes Sur
lle
To Iglesia de
ὈὈὈ
63
San Román 45 29
Ca
To 2nd-class Bus
(350m)
lle
e
s Est Terminal (400m)
65
1 4 38 r t e
a l le l u a ua
C Ba uah
u ito C hih
c
4 Cir Mercado
Av 62
1 6
lle 15
Ca pas
17 57 auli
Alameda Tam
33
More
Pedrono
18 Av Rep
lle 63 ública
Ca
To Main Bus Terminal (2km); Airport (5.5km); Edzná (60km);
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 16 Mérida (long route, 235km); Ciudad del Carmen (toll road, 237km)
Baluarte de Nuestra Señora de la Puerta de Tierra...........................33 C4
Nicaragua
PIRATES!
As early as the mid-16th century, Campeche was flourishing as the Yucatán’s major port under the
careful planning of Viceroy Hernández de Córdoba. Local timber, chicle and dyewoods were major
exports to Europe, as were gold and silver mined elsewhere and shipped from Campeche.
Such wealth did not escape the notice of pirates, who arrived only six years after the town’s
founding. For two centuries, the depredations of pirates terrorized Campeche. Not only were
ships attacked, but the port itself was invaded, its citizens robbed, women raped and buildings
burned. The buccaneers’ Hall of Shame counted the infamous John Hawkins, Diego the Mulatto,
Barbillas and the notorious ‘Pegleg’ (Pata de Palo) himself. In their most gruesome assault, in
early 1663, the various pirate hordes set aside rivalries to converge as a single flotilla upon the
city, massacring Campeche’s citizens.
This tragedy finally spurred the Spanish monarchy to take preventive action, but it was another
five years before work on the 3.5m-thick ramparts began. By 1686 a 2.5km hexagon incorporating
eight strategically placed bastions surrounded the city. A segment of the ramparts extended out
to sea so that ships literally had to sail into a fortress to gain access to the city.
With Campeche nearly impregnable, pirates turned to other ports and ships at sea. In 1717
the brilliant naval strategist Felipe de Aranda began a campaign against the buccaneers, and
eventually made this area of the Gulf safe from piracy.
Directly behind San Juan de Dios church, the right spire. Built in the early 18th cen-
the Baluarte de San Pedro (cnr Calle 18 & Av Circuito tury by Jesuits who ran it as an institute of
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
Baluartes Norte; admission free; h9am-9pm) served a higher learning until they were booted out
postpiracy defensive function when it re- of Spanish domains in 1767, it now serves
pelled a punitive raid from Mérida in 1824. as an exhibition space. It belongs to the
Carved in stone above the entry is the sym- Instituto Campechano, the square-block
bol of San Pedro: two keys to heaven and university it’s attached to.
the papal tiara. Climb the steep ramp to
the roof and look between the battlements Museo Arqueológico de Campeche &
to see San Juan’s cupola. Downstairs, the Fuerte de San Miguel
Museo y Galería de Arte Popular (Museum & Gal- Campeche’s largest colonial fort, facing the
lery of Folk Art; admission free; h9am-4pm) displays Gulf of Mexico some 3.5km southwest of
beautiful indigenous handicrafts. the city center, is now home to the excellent
Once the primary defensive bastion for archaeological museum (admission US$2.75; h9am-
the adjacent Puerta de la Tierra, the Baluarte 7:30pm Tue-Sun). Here you can admire find-
de San Francisco (Calle 18 btwn Calles 55 & 57; admis- ings from the sites of Calakmul, Edzná and
sion US$1; h9am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) Jaina, an island north of town once used as
houses a small arms museum. The Baluarte a burial site for Maya aristocracy.
de San Juan (Calle 18 btwn Calles 63 & 65; admission Stunning jade jewelry and exquisite vases,
free; h8am-7:30pm Tue-Sun), the smallest of the masks and plates are thematically arranged
seven, contains a permanent exhibition on in 10 exhibit halls. The star attractions are
the history of the bulwarks, and the Balu- the jade burial masks from Calakmul. Also
arte de Santa Rosa (cnr Calles 14 & Circuito Baluartes; displayed are stelae, seashell necklaces and
admission free; h10am-3pm & 6-9pm), a couple of clay figurines.
blocks to the northwest, has Campeche’s Equipped with a dry moat and work-
art gallery (closed for remodeling at time ing drawbridge, the fort itself is a thing of
of research). beauty. The roof deck, ringed by 20 can-
nons, affords wonderful harbor views.
Ex-Templo de San José Buses marked ‘Lerma’ or ‘Playa’ depart
Faced with flamboyant blue-and-yellow from the market and travel counterclock-
tiles, the former San José church (cnr Calles wise around the Circuito before heading
10 & 63; admission US$1.50; h9am-3pm & 3:45-8:30pm down the malecón. The access road to
Tue-Sun) is a wonder to behold; note the light- the fort is 4km southwest of Plaza Moch-
house, complete with weather vane, atop Couoh. Hike 700m up the hill (bear left at
214 C A M P E C H E • • W a l k i n g T o u r www.lonelyplanet.com
lecón, Campeche’s waterfront promenade, h9am-3pm & 5-8pm), once the city residence
makes a breezy sunrise ramble or sunset of a wealthy hacendado (landowner). Now
bike ride. housing government offices, the interior is
A series of monuments along the 2.5km worth admiring for its Escheresque décor,
stretch allude to various personages and with checkerboard floors receding toward
events in the city’s history. Southwest of Moorish archways. Turn left on Calle 53,
the Plaza Moch-Couoh stands a statue of then circle back along Calle 12, noting the
Campeche native Justo Sierra Méndez, to neoclassic Teatro de la Ciudad Francisco de Paula
whom the foundation of Mexico’s modern Toro (8; admission free; h8am-9pm), the town
educational system is attributed. Northeast theater, on your right. Turn right, back
up the malecón is a sculpture representing onto Calle 51, and proceed inland. When
the city’s two forts, San Miguel and San you reach the austere Iglesia de San Juan de
José. In front of the Plaza Moch Couoh is a Dios (9), follow the pedestrian plaza along
symbolic representation of the walled city’s the right side of the church to the Baluarte
four gates. A block past the Hotel del Mar de San Pedro (10; p213). Cross Av Circuito
is a monumental sculpture of native son Baluartes to the Mercado Principal (11; p218)
Pedro Sáinz de Baranda, who played a key role for a cooling agua de jamaica (hibiscus tea)
in defeating the Spanish at their last strong- in the food section. Exit the market on the
hold in Veracruz, thus ending the war of southwest side and take a stroll through the
independence. Just beyond the Conven- Alameda park (12). Back across the Circuito,
tion Center, the girl gazing out to sea is re-enter the walled city through the Puerta
the Novia del Mar. According to a poignant de Tierra (13; p219). Turn right and go one
local legend, the campechana fell in love block to the entrance of the Baluarte de San
with a foreign pirate and awaits his return. Francisco (14; p213). Here you can ascend
About 1km further north, the Plaza Cuatro and walk atop the southern stretch of wall
de Octubre (October 4) commemorates the to the Baluarte de San Juan (15; p213). Back
date of the city’s founding, depicting the at ground level, follow the Circuito seaward
fateful meeting of a Maya cacique (chief), to the Baluarte de Santa Rosa (16; p213). Two
the conquistador Francisco de Montejo and blocks back toward the center along Calle
a priest. At the malecón’s northern end is 14, then left on Calle 63 brings you to the
the seafood restaurant complex known as Instituto Campechano (17); now home to the
the Parador Gastronómico (p219). Autonomous University of Campeche. A
www.lonelyplanet.com C A M P E C H E • • T o u r s 215
block further north, occupying one corner housing the city museum. For an appropri-
of the university building, stands the brightly ate ending to the tour, head for the malecón
tiled Ex-Templo de San José (18; p213). Continue and proceed to the bar of the Hotel Baluartes
down Calle 63 to reach the bizarrely mod- (22; p218) for a well-deserved cocktail.
ernist Palacio Legislativo (19; Congress Bldg; Calle
8). To the right is the Palacio de Gobierno (20; TOURS
Government Palace), faced with mosaic pan- Monkey Hostel (p216), Hostal La Parroquia
els exalting Maya scientists and laborers; to (p217) and Hostal del Pirata (p217) will all
the left is the Baluarte de San Carlos (21; p211), arrange tours and/or shuttle services to the
Maya sites. Hostal del Pirata also offers
kayaking tours of Isla de Jaina and the Los
WALK FACTS Petenes Biosphere Reserve (US$30 per per-
Start Plaza Principal son), as well as tarpon-fishing expeditions.
Finish Hotel Baluartes ADO (%811-9910; Av Patricio Trueba 237) The bus
Distance 2km company offers a daily circuit of nearby points (US$23),
Duration Around two hours including the village of Hecelchakán, the Xtacumbilxuna’an
ὈὈ
caves and Edzná. Vans depart from the main bus terminal
Pedro Sáinz de
ὈὈ ὈὈ
Baranda Monument
6
Av
Ale
Gulf of Mexico
má
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
n
z
ne
th
rtí 8
Pa
lle
ὈὈ
Co 22 Parque de Ca
ke
iz
Bi
las Banderas
Ru Parque de
lfo 5 IV Centenario
do re 7
Al tiem
b
Monument to Av Sep
de 3 2
the City Gates 16
Av
Av Cir
4 Plaza 0
Principal le 1
Plaza Plaza de la Cal
República 1 cuito
Ca
Moch-Couoh
lle
8
Balua
51
Palacio de
Gobierno 20 2
le 1
Cal
rtes N
Cal
le 5
19
orte
3
ὈὈ
21
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216 C A M P E C H E • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s Book accommodations online
w w at
w .www.lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
MAYA HONEY
Yucatán’s flowers yield a sweet, mellifluous harvest, and bees have held an exalted place through-
out its honeyed history. At the time of the conquest, records show that the Maya produced vast
amounts of honey and Yucatecan villages paid tribute to the Spanish in honey, which was valued
more for its curative properties than as a sweetener. Bees were important in the Maya pantheon:
bee motifs appear in the surviving Maya codices, and the image of Ah Mucenkab, god of bees,
is carved into the friezes of Chichén Itzá, Tulum and Sayil.
Mexico remains the world’s No 4 producer of honey, and the nectar of Yucatán is especially
coveted for its blend of flavors and aromas, a result of the diversity of the region’s flowers. Many
campesinos (agricultural workers) keep bees to supplement their agricultural output. However, the
stingless variety known to the ancient Maya has long since been supplanted by European bees,
which in turn are being pushed aside by the more aggressive African bees, notorious among
handlers for their nasty sting.
One Maya women’s cooperative in the village of Ich-Ek, near Hopelchén, wants to preserve
their ancient heritage. Koolel Kab (Women Who Work with Bees; %996-822-0073) produces honey with
indigenous melipona bees, which take up residence in hollow trees. Using techniques much like
those of their ancestors, the women place sections of tree trunk under a shelter, capping each
end of the trunk with mud. An average trunk yields 12 liters of honey, which is marketed chiefly
for its medicinal properties as throat lozenges, eye drops, soaps and skin creams.
at 9am Thursday to Sunday, returning at 4pm. Tours leave Feria de San Román (September 14) This festival
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
ample time for site visits. honors the beloved Cristo Negro (Black Christ) of the San
Tranvía de la Ciudad (adult/child US$7/1.50; hhourly Román temple. Fireworks and Ferris wheels take over the
9am-1pm & 5-9pm) Three different tours by motorized zone, just southwest of the center, along with beauty
tranvía depart from Calle 10 beside the Plaza Principal daily; contests, boxing matches and a music-and-dance competi-
all last about 45 minutes. Knowledgeable guides provide tion that brings in traditional ensembles from around the
commentary in Spanish, or English by prior arrangement. The peninsula.
Tranvía de la Ciudad tours the historic town center, including Día de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (December
a cruise down the malecón and a circuit of the city walls. The 12) Major pilgrimages from throughout the peninsula to
hour before sunset is best. On the same schedule, the trolley the Iglesia de Guadalupe, 1.5km east of the Plaza Principal
called ‘El Guapo’ goes to the Fuerte de San Miguel or its twin and Mexico’s second-most-visited shrine, to the Virgin of
on the north side of town, the Fuerte de San José. (Note that Guadalupe. The sacred homage coincides with the Festi-
the fort tours do not leave time to visit the museums within val del Centro Histórico, held throughout December
them.) Buy tram tickets, and check schedules, at the booth with a jazz festival toward the end of the month.
just inside the plaza from the trolley stop.
Xtampak Tours (%811-6473; xtampak_7@yahoo SLEEPING
.com.mx; Calle 57 No 14 btwn Calles 10 & 12; h8am- Budget
4pm & 5:30-8:30pm) Offers comprehensive city tours at Campeche’s three hostels all offer laundry
9am and 4pm daily (four hours, US$23 per person), as well services, free Internet and complimentary
as archaeological tours to Edzná (US$20), the Chenes sites breakfast, plus bicycle rentals and tours of
(US$70) and eastern Campeche. Most tours include certi- archaeological sites.
fied bilingual guides and entry fees. Overnight packages Monkey Hostel (%811-6605; www.hostalcampeche
are available to Calakmul and Río Bec. .com; cnr Calles 10 & 57; dm US$7.50-8, r US$17; i) The
all-purpose Monkey is both the longest-
FESTIVALS & EVENTS established and most popular of Campeche’s
Carnaval (February) Campeche pulls out all the stops for hostels. It also has the best location, smack
Carnaval, with at least a week of festivities leading up to on the Plaza Principal. The international
‘Sábado de Bando’ (Carnaval Saturday, date varies), when social scene is enhanced by cozy common
everyone dresses up in outrageous costumes and parades areas with bar, hammocks and well-worn
down the malecón. The official conclusion is a week later, sofas, and a friendly bilingual staff. There
when a pirate effigy is torched and hurled into the sea, are five dorm rooms (one reserved for fe-
followed by much revelry in front of the Concha Acústica male travelers) plus six private doubles (one
(bandshell) in the Barrio de San Román. with its own bathroom).
Book
w w waccommodations
. l o n e l y p l a n e online
t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com C A M P E C H E • • S l e e p i n g 217
Hostal del Pirata (% 811-1757; piratehostel@ mood of this older place alongside the ca-
hotmail.com; Calle 59 No 47; dm US$7.50, r with/without thedral. As it’s lacking external ventilation,
bathroom US$21/17; i) A block from the Puerta the rooms could get stuffy. The lobby func-
de Tierra, the HI (Hostelling International) tions as a local social club.
affiliate is ensconced in Campeche’s historic Hotel Maya Campeche (%816-8053, 800-561-
center, and the building itself is a 17th- 8730; www.mayacampechehotel.com.mx; Calle 57 No 40;
century relic. Though it hasn’t attained the s/d US$30/35; ia) This small, boutique-style
Monkey’s popularity, the Pirata’s neatly hotel in the heart of the walled city has a
kept premises may appeal to more fastidi- romantic, pseudo-colonial atmosphere and
ous travelers. Skip the minimal breakfast eager-to-please staff. Fifteen rooms with
(included in rates) and put together your ceiling fans and painted wall motifs face a
own meals in the rooftop kitchen with adja- narrow courtyard.
cent sundeck. Occupying a modern annex,
dorms and ‘semiprivate’ rooms share mod- Midrange
est facilities with cramped showers. Newly Hotel América (%816-4576; www.hotelamericacam
installed private rooms have fold-up sofa peche.com; Calle 10 No 252; s/d/tr with fan US$30/35/39,
beds and hammocks. with air-con US$36/40/45; pa) A large central
Hostal La Parroquia (%816-2530; www.hostal hotel, the América has an impressive inte-
parroquia.com; Calle 55 btwn Calles 10 & 12; dm US$9.50, rior, with arcaded corridors surrounding
d/q US$18/27; i) Half a block from the Plaza a handsome courtyard where a compli-
Principal, Campeche’s newest hostel re- mentary breakfast is served. The 49 rooms
sides in a magnificent late-1500s mansion. are attractively done up in colonial style,
Rooms with original stone walls and ex- with tiled fixtures and checkerboard floors,
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
posed wooden beams flank a grand hallway though some travelers have complained of
that opens onto a pleasant patio with small noise from below. Parking is in the Hotel
kitchen, and adjacent lawn for sunbathing. del Mar, three blocks north.
Of the three hostels, it offers the best com- Hotel López (%/fax 816-3344; [email protected]
plimentary breakfast scheme: fresh fruit, .mx; Calle 12 No 189 btwn Calles 61 & 63; d/tr/q US$39/43/47;
toast and coffee at the café next door. pa) Down the street from the Instituto
Hotel Reforma (%816-4464; Calle 8 No 257 btwn Campechano, this elegant hotel is on a
Calles 57 & 59; s US$11-23, d US$23, tr US$19-32, q US$32; lively section of Calle 12 where students
a) Just off the Plaza Principal, this ancient mill about in the evening. Comfortably ap-
hotel in a 400-year-old building is slowly up- pointed rooms open onto art-deco balco-
grading. Enormous upstairs rooms, though nies around oval courtyards and exuberant
dingy, have modern tiled bathrooms, high gardens.
ceilings and great balconies, if you can han- Hotel del Paseo (%811-0100; www.hoteldelpaseo
dle the traffic noise. Rates vary with inclu- .com; Calle 8 No 215; s/d/tr/q US$44/50/60/67; pa)
sion of TV, hot water and/or air-con; the Named for its proximity to the pleasant
complex scheme is posted over the recep- paseo (promenade) that connects the his-
tion desk. toric center with the Barrio San Román,
Posada del Ángel (%816-7718; Calle 10 No 309; s/d/ this modern option has an interior prom-
tr/q with fan US$22/25/28/31, with air-con US$29/32/35/39; enade too, with street lamps, shops and a
a) Fresh paint and cheery art enhance the bar, all beneath your balcony.
pais) The Miami-style del Mar, on with a variety of scrumptious fillings, such
the malecón, exudes luxury and a beachy as shark-and-egg salad and salpicón de res
glow. Rooms with sea views have balco- (shredded beef salad). Don’t miss the exotic
nies. Lafitte’s, the downstairs bar where the fruit juices.
waiters have to dress up like pirates, dou- Mundo Natural (Calle 8 at Calle 61; juice US$1.25, salad
bles as one of Campeche’s more popular US$2; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sun) This open-
nightspots. air ‘natural foods’ bar opposite the Palacio
de Gobierno prepares fresh juice combos,
EATING hefty salads and sandwichónes – very large
Travelers who take their eating seri- double- or triple-decker sandwiches that
ously will find plenty of good options in are sliced into snack-sized sections.
Campeche, but steer clear of the numerous Lonchería Las Mañanitas (Calle 49-B No 3; trancas
tourist-oriented restaurants, which gener- US$2, soups US$2.50; h6pm-midnight Thu-Tue) At the
ally serve dull, overpriced fare. Such places Portales de San Martín, a block north of
are recognizable as they’re empty when not Avenida Circuito Baluartes Norte, this place
occupied by tour groups. serving regional snacks under the arcades
On Saturday and Sunday the best place of the plaza is a popular gathering place
to sample campechano cuisine is the Plaza for families and friends. The festive mood
Principal. Before sundown, stalls set up is buoyed by a steady stream of panuchos
around the plaza to offer an impressive (totillas filled with black beans), tamales
variety of home-cooked fare at reasonable and bowls of turkey soup. Also served here
prices. You can sample regional special- are trancas filled with jamón claveteado –
ties such as pibipollo (chicken tamales tra- cured ham spiked with cloves.
ditionally cooked underground), brazo de Cenaduría Portales (%811-1491; Calle 10, Por-
reina (tamales with chopped chaya greens tales de San Francisco 86; trancas US$2, soups US$2.50;
mixed into the dough) and pan de cazón h6pm-midnight) A relaxed place outside the
(layers of shark and tortillas laced with a walls, alongside the delightful Plazuela de
tomato-based sauce), plus various desserts San Francisco in the barrio of the same
and cold teas. name. It specializes in regional dishes. On
Though startlingly rustic compared with warm evenings, an ice-cold goblet of coco-
Campeche’s spruced-up center, the main nut horchata (a rice-based drink) really hits
market, Mercado Principal (Circuito de Baluartes the spot.
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C A M P E C H E S TAT E
a steam table. The list of guisados (main campechano classics, show music, marches
courses) might include potato croquettes and other rousing fare. Try to arrive early
and ropa vieja (‘old clothes,’ shredded beef for a good seat.
in salsa) accompanied by fried plantains, Also on weekends, tables are set up from
beans and rice. 6pm to 10pm in front of the cathedral and
Café La Parroquia (% 816-2550; Calle 55 No library for La Lotería (p220); you can join
8; breakfast combos US$3-4, lunch specials US$3.50; in the action at a peso per card. Don’t worry
h24hr) Any time of day – or night – your if your Spanish is limited; other players will
table awaits at this classic coffee house with keep an eye on your card and instruct you
a dozen ceiling fans, attentive waiters in in the complexities of the game.
white coats and continuous Televisa broad- Incidents from Campeche’s pirate past
casts. Not just tourists but local geezers are re-enacted several nights a week inside
in guayaberas (traditional shirts) hang out the Puerta de Tierra (tickets US$3.80; h8:30pm Tue,
here for hours on end. In addition to the Fri & Sat), in a Disneyesque extravaganza with
breakfast packages and daily lunch specials lots of cannon blasts and flashing lights.
(served 10:30am to 6pm), there’s a full list The tale is told in four languages. Tickets
of regional faves such as pollo en escabeche go on sale at 8pm.
(chicken marinated in vinaigrette-style
sauce). Nightclubs
Iguana Azul (%816-3978; Calle 55 No 11 btwn Calles 10
DRINKING & 12; h11pm-2am Thu-Sat) Toward the weekend
La Casa Vieja (% 811-8016; Calle 10 No 319A; this casual restaurant across from Café La
h11am-1:30am) There’s no better setting for Parroquia hosts local cover bands and jazz
an evening cocktail than La Casa Vieja’s combos in its colonial courtyard.
colonnaded balcony overlooking the Plaza KY8 (cnr Calles 8 & 59; admission US$5; h11:30pm-
Principal. Seek dinner elsewhere, however; 4:30am Thu-Sat) If you’re in a dancing mood,
the restaurant is aimed primarily at the don your best-pressed jeans and make for
tour-bus trade. this friendly disco-bar opposite the Puerta
Staccato Café (Calle 8 No 7; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, del Mar, where a 20-something crowd
9am-2pm & 6-10pm Sat & Sun) Java junkies seek- demonstrates its salsa, cumbia and meren-
ing that double latte should make for this gue moves. There’s live music on Saturday
civilized café opposite the Palacio de Gobi- nights.
220 C A M P E C H E • • S h o p p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com
hats from Bécal and carved bullhorns from To get to the new terminal, catch any ‘Las
Campeche (developed in response to tor- Flores,’ ‘Solidaridad’ or ‘Casa de Justicia’
toise shell scarcity). Similar gallery pieces bus by the post office. To the 2nd-class ter-
can be purchased at the museum shop. minal, catch a ‘Terminal Sur’ or ‘Ex-ADO’
Mercado Principal (Av Circuito Baluartes Este; bus from the same point.
h7am-5pm) Prowl around the main mar- Another Sur terminal across from the
ket and survey the spices and herbs, exotic Alameda has rural buses to Champotón
fruit, honey and chilies. Bonetería Bazar and Edzná.
Puebla has a good selection of huipiles and The destinations in the table are from the
guayaberas. 1st-class terminal unless otherwise noted.
LA LOTERÍA
‘23, melons’…‘47, volcano’… ‘41, rocking chair’…‘78, rose’…‘2, dove.’
It’s Saturday night in Campeche, and the tables in front of the cathedral are already full for
the ritual game of la lotería, held every Saturday and Sunday evening from 6pm to 10pm. The
litany of icons is chanted through a cheap microphone by a woman in a huipil, as she picks up
numbered balls from the spinner cage and places them upon a panel of 90 pictures.
A bingolike game of European origin that uses numbered images, la lotería has been played
on the peninsula since the 19th century. John L Stephens’ Incidents of Travel in Yucatan has a
good description of the game as he observed it played at a fiesta in Mérida in 1841. The action
now may not be as heated as he describes, but the old folks can get pretty excited when one
of them finishes a row.
At a peso per card, most anyone can afford to play a card, or four. Players usually mark
the images on their cards with bottle caps from a plastic container on the table. A variation
on bingo is that markers can be placed in a variety of patterns: in addition to the usual rows,
players can arrange their five markers in the form of a ‘V,’ a pair of scissors, or several kinds of
crosses. The first person to form one of these patterns takes the pot, which can get pretty hefty
as the evening progresses.
‘20, death,’ the game master recites. ‘Aqui!’ shouts a middle-aged woman with six cards in
front of her, and the game is over.
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C A M P E C H E S TAT E
long route to Mérida or the fast toll road (US$7.50) are sold from a booth in the ter-
going south, take Avenida Central and fol- minal. To request a taxi, call %815-5555
low signs for the airport and either Edzná or 816-6666.
or the cuota (toll road). For the nontoll Consider renting a bicycle for a ride
route south, just head down the malecón. along the malecón or through the streets
For the short route to Mérida go north on of the Centro Histórico. All of Campeche’s
the malecón. hostels (p216) rent bicycles at reasonable
Coming to Campeche from the south rates.
via the cuota, turn left at the roundabout Drivers should note that even-numbered
signed for the universidad, and follow that streets in the Centro take priority, as indi-
road straight to the coast. Turn right up cated by the red (stop) or black (go) arrows
the malecón and you will arrive instantly at every intersection.
oriented.
In addition to the airport outlets, several
car-rental agencies can be found down-
town. Rates are generally higher than in
CAMPECHE TO MÉRIDA
Mérida or Cancún.
Localiza Rent a Car (%811-3187; Hotel Baluartes, Av
VIA HIGHWAY 180
16 de Septiembre 128) The ruta corta is the fastest way between the
Maya Car Rental (%816-0670; Hotel del Mar, Av Ruíz two cities, and it’s the route more traveled
Cortinez 51) by buses. Hwy 261, the longer alternative
Payless Car Rental (%816-4214; Hotel del Paseo, via Kabah and Uxmal, is covered by buses
Calle 10 No 288, interior 3) out of Campeche’s 2nd-class terminal.
JIPIJAPA HATS
While on the surface Bécal may look like a somnolent campechano town, underground a multitude
is laboring away at the traditional craft of hat making. Called jipijapas by the inhabitants of Bécal,
the soft, pliable hats that constitute its principal industry have been woven by townsfolk from
the fibers of the huano palm tree since the mid-19th century when the plants were imported
from Guatemala by a Catholic priest.
The stalk of the plant is cut into strands to make the fibers; the quality of the hat depends on
the fineness of the cut. The work is done in humid limestone caves that provide just the right
atmosphere for shaping the fibers, keeping them moist and pliable. There’s at least one cave on
every block, generally reached by a hole in the ground in someone’s backyard. Though often
no bigger than a bedroom, the caves may be occupied by half a dozen Maya-speaking weavers
at a time. Once exposed to the relatively dry air outside, the panama hat is surprisingly resilient
and resistant to crushing. Prices for the hats range from around US$20 for coarsely woven hats
to more than US$80 for very fine work.
includes a Mennonite community, are pri- booze or friends of guests allowed. There
marily devoted to agriculture, while a few are 14 ample-sized units.
are employed in the clothing maquiladora ATS buses from Campeche’s 2nd-class
(in-bond factory). terminal stop here en route to Mérida every
A tourist information office (%827-0071) is half hour till around 10pm. In addition,
inside the Casa de Cultura, on the left side blue colectivos (shared vans) shuttle passen-
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
an ingenious network of water collection the Nohochná (Big House), a massive, elon-
and irrigation systems. After its demise gated structure topped by four long halls
in the 15th century, the site remained un- likely used for administrative tasks, such as
0 200 m (Approx)
EDZNÁ 0 0.1 miles
To Exit
To Entrance
Plataforma de
los Cuchillos
Gran Acrópolis
Anexo de los
Cuchillos
Patio
Puuc
Templo del
Noroeste Edificio de los
Sacbé Cinco Pisos
Pequeña Acrópolis
Templo de la
Templo Juego de Escalinata con
del Sur Pelota Relieves
Templo de
Los Estelas
Templo de Los
Mascarones
224 C A M P E C H E T O M É R I D A V I A H I G H W AY 2 6 1 • • H o p e l c h é n www.lonelyplanet.com
the collection of tributes and the dispensa- vicinity while also providing a glimpse of
tion of justice. The built-in benches facing everyday life in a small Campeche town.
the main plaza seem designed for spectators A tourist information office (%822-0089; Calle
of special events. 20; h8am-3pm) in the Casa de Cultura, two
Across the plaza is the Gran Acrópolis, blocks north of the main plaza, is staffed by
a raised platform holding several struc- English speakers. To get online, visit Cyber
tures, including Edzná’s major temple, the 23 (Calle 23), a block west of the bus station.
31m-high Edificio de los Cinco Pisos (Five-Story Travelers heading for bankless Xpujil: there’s
Building). The current structure is the last of a Bancomer with ATM next to the Palacio
four remodels and was done primarily in the Municipal on the smaller plaza. Likewise,
Puuc style. It rises five levels from its base Xpujil-bound drivers should fill up here.
to the roofcomb and contains many vaulted On a typical morning here, Maya campes-
rooms. A great central staircase of 65 steps, inos and Mennonites congregate under box-
some with well-preserved glyphs along their shaped laurels as bicycle taxis glide past.
bases, goes right to the top. Climbers are Opposite the central plaza, the Parroquia de
rewarded with sweeping views of the whole San Antonio de Padua, dating from the 16th
complex and surrounding jungle canopy. century, features an intricate retablo (altar-
Southeast of Plaza Principal is the Templo piece), with a gallery of saints and angels
de Mascarones (Temple of Masks), with a pair amidst lavishly carved pillars. Herbalists,
of reddish stucco masks underneath a pro- midwives and shamans practice traditional
tective palapa. Personifying the gods of the Maya medicine at the Consejo Local de Médicos
rising and setting sun, these extraordinarily Indigenas (Colmich, Calle 8), five blocks east of
well-preserved faces display dental mutila- the plaza.
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
tion, crossed eyes and huge earrings, features Hotel Arcos (% 822-0037; Calle 23 s/n; s/d/tr
associated with the Maya aristocracy. US$11/17/22) Next door to the bus terminal,
is this convenient no-frills option. If you’d
Getting There & Away rather, you can sling your hammock from
From Campeche, dilapidated buses leave the hooks on the wall. Watch your head,
from outside the Sur Champotón terminal though: the ceiling fans hang low.
at 7am and 11:15am, returning from the site Ecovillas Lol Chi’ich (%822-0503; Calle 14, 32-A;
at 1pm and 4pm (US$2, one hour). Most cabins US$14, r US$19; pc) Perched on a hill
drop you 200m from the site entrance; ask at the south edge of town, these Maya-style
before boarding. Schedules vary, so check oval huts have cool, comfortable interiors
the day before you travel. with ceiling fans and attached bathrooms.
The ADO bus company offers a circuit There’s a kid’s playground and pool. They’re
of Edzná and several other destinations a 15-minute walk from the main plaza, or
(p215). Xtampak Tours (p216) provides an take a bicycle taxi.
hourly shuttle service from Campeche to For a good caldo de pollo (chicken soup),
Edzná (US$14, minimum two passengers) try the stalls on Plaza Chica, open mornings
as well as guided tours of the site (US$23 from 7am and evenings till 1am.
per person, including site admission).
Leaving the site by car, you can either go Getting There & Away
north on Hwy 120 to pick up Hwy 261 east The terminal is served by 2nd-class Sur
to Hopelchén, or alternatively head east buses, with daily departures to/arrivals from
toward Dzibalchén and the Chenes site of Campeche (US$3.75, 1½ hours, hourly),
Hochob (p226) by going south to Pich, then Mérida via Bolonchén (US$7, five services),
due east to Chencoh, 54km from Edzná and Xpujil (US$7.50, three hours, one at
over a decent but little-used road. 8pm). In addition, blue taxis colectivos run
continuously between Campeche’s 2nd-
HOPELCHÉN class terminal (US$3.25) and Hopelchén,
%996 / pop 6500 stopping at villages along the way.
The municipal center for the Chenes re- Drivers can strike southward to Dzibal-
gion, Hopelchén (Maya for ‘Place of the chén and Xpujil, stopping along the way to
Five Wells’) makes a pleasant base for vis- check out the Maya ruins at El Tabasqueño,
iting the various archaeological sites in the Dzibilnocac and Hochob.
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C A M P E C H E S TAT E
AROUND HOPELCHÉN lagmites, the soundtrack only detracts from
Tohcok is a walkable 3km west of Hopelchén. the experience. Instead, listen to the sounds
Of the 40-odd structures found at this site of mot-mots echoing off the walls as you
(admission free), the only one that has been sig- descend. Sur buses for Mérida (see op-
nificantly excavated displays features of the posite) will drop you at the cave entrance
Puuc and Chenes styles. The custodian can before Bolonchén (US$1.50, 25 minutes).
point out a chultun – a Maya underground In addition, taxis colectivos depart for Bo-
cistern – one of around 45 in the zone. lonchén from the north side of Hopelchén’s
Some of the most significant caves on the plaza, passing nearby the caves. Check with
Yucatán Peninsula are found 31km north the driver for return times.
of Hopelchén, shortly before you reach the Hwy 261 continues north into Yucatán
town of Bolonchén de Rejón. The local state to Uxmal, with a side road leading to
Maya have long known of the existence of the ruins along the Ruta Puuc. See Uxmal
the Grutas de Xtacumbilxuna’an (US$4.75; h10am- (p172) and Ruta Puuc (p177) for more in-
5pm Tue-Sun), a series of underground cenotes formation.
in this water-scarce region. In 1844, the
caves were discovered by the intrepid John CHENES SITES
L Stephens and Frederick Catherwood, who Northeastern Campeche state is dotted
depicted the Maya descending an incred- with more than 30 sites in the distinct
ibly high rope-and-log staircase to replen- Chenes style, recognizable by the monster
ish their water supply. Today the cenote motifs around doorways in the center of
is dry but Xtacumbilxuna’an (pronounced long, low buildings of three sections, and
shtaa-koom-beel-shoo-nahn) is open for temples atop pyramidal bases. Most of the
exploration and admiration of the vast cav- year you’ll have these sites to yourself. The
erns and incredible limestone formations three small sites described below make for
within. A light-and-sound extravaganza ac- an interesting single-day trip if you have
companies the tour; skip the headphones your own vehicle or take a tour with Xtam-
for the verbal commentary in six languages pak Tours (see p216).
(something about the legend of the hid- Supposedly named after a local land-
den lady for whom the caves are named). owner from Tabasco, El Tabasqueño (admission
While the lighting helpfully picks out some free) boasts a temple-palace (Estructura 1)
of the more spectacular stalactites and sta- with a striking monster-mouth doorway,
226 S O U T H W E S T E R N C OA S T • • C h a m p o t ó n www.lonelyplanet.com
flanked by stacks of eight Chac masks with stay here so you’ll need to make it back to
hooked snouts. Estructura 2 is a solid free- Hopelchén by nightfall.
standing tower, an oddity in Maya archi- The rest of the route between here and
tecture. To reach El Tabasqueño, go south Mérida is covered in the Yucatán State
from Hopelchén 30km. Just beyond the chapter (see p172).
village of Pakchén, there’s an easy-to-miss
sign at a turnoff on the right; follow this
rock-and-gravel road 2km to the site.
Approximately 60km south of Hopelchén
SOUTHWESTERN COAST
near the village of Chencoh, Hochob (admission Though most travelers glimpse this stretch
US$2.25), ‘the place where corn is harvested,’ of coast through the window of a bus, nature
is among the most beautiful and terrifying enthusiasts, seafood mavens and intrepid
of Chenes-style sites. Considered a classic explorers should find plenty to appreciate
example of the Chenes style, the Palacio here. You’ll find uninhabited white-sand
Principal (Estructura 2, though signposted beaches, fishing villages, and inland estuar-
as ‘Estructura 1’) is on the north side of ies and lagoons – a wetlands haven for birds
the main plaza. It’s faced with an elaborate and marine turtles.
doorway representing Itzamná, lord crea- First-class ADO buses cover the three-
tor of the ancient Maya, as an open-jawed hour journey between Campeche city and
rattlesnake. Facing Estructura 2 across the Ciudad del Carmen, while both ADO
plaza, Estructura 5 has a pair of raised tem- and 2nd-class ATS buses service points
ples on either end of a long series of rooms; in between. Two roads head south from
the better-preserved temple on the east side Campeche to the scruffy fishing port of
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
birds. Encompassing not only wildlife habi- you reach Isla Aguada, a primitive fishing
tat but the state’s second-largest city and community with a gas station and an old
Mexico’s principal oil production center, lighthouse. Tiny mangrove islands dot the
the lagoon’s ecosystem remains threatened lagoon here, and birders can arrange an
by various environmental dangers, and in excursion to the Isla de Pájaros, where thou-
1994 it was designated a Flora and Fauna sands of herons, gulls and magnificent frig-
Protection Area. ate birds converge at sunset. Inquire at the
Hemmed in by a narrow strip of land Comisaría (%938-109-3983), near Parque Be-
that is traversed by Hwy 180, the lagoon nito Juárez, to hire a motorboat out to the
can be explored from various points along island; a two-hour excursion for up to eight
the way. people costs US$40. Hotel Playa Punta Perla
(%938-382-1063; r US$32; pasc) faces a
Sabancuy stretch of deserted white-sand beach on Isla
One base for exploring the laguna is Saban- Aguada’s Gulf side. With cheerfully painted
cuy, a truly picturesque fishing village on two-level blocks amidst palm-lined grounds
the lower side of an estuary that branches and fresh shrimp and oysters from the la-
off the lagoon’s northeastern end. Sabancuy goon served under the shade of enramadas,
is 2km from the coast, across the estuary it’s the sort of place that fills up at Easter
via two bridges. You enter onto the vil- and stays empty the rest of the year.
lage’s cute little waterfront plaza, the focus From Isla Aguada, the 3.2km Puente La
of activity. Unidad (US$4) spans the strait for access
Facing the estuary, 15km from town by to Isla del Carmen, a 46km drive further
motorboat, are the extensive ruins of the old west.
Hacienda de Tixchel, a cattle ranch and sugar
plantation during the late colonial period. CIUDAD DEL CARMEN
The ruins are maintained by Sabancuy’s %938 / pop 126,000
fishermen, who provide transport there. To Campeche’s second-biggest city occupies
hire a boat to the hacienda (US$40), it’s best the western end of a narrow island between
to reserve in advance: phone Dr José de Jesús the Gulf of Mexico and the Laguna de
Ambrosio Reyes (%982-825-0128), or go to the Términos. Though its self-proclaimed title,
Farmacia de Jesús, one block up from the ‘Pearl of the Gulf,’ is open to dispute, Ciu-
plaza on the right side of the church. dad del Carmen is very much a bustling,
228 S O U T H W E S T E R N C OA S T • • C i u d a d d e l C a r m e n Book accommodations online
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prosperous tropical seaside town, with Hotel Eli-Gar (%382-0602; s/d with fan US$17/28,
freighters anchored in the harbor and salty with air-con US$28/32; pa) This no-frills op-
breezes caressing the malecón. tion, two blocks from the central plaza, has
With the discovery of oil in the 1980s, in- well-ventilated if utilitarian units around a
vestment poured in, the population swelled, patio strewn with plastic pink flamingos.
and the 3.8km Zacatal causeway was com- Noise levels are kept tolerably low.
pleted in 1994, linking the city with the rest Hotel Playa Dorado (%382-4450; Av Paseo del Mar
of Mexico. 8; r with fan/air-con US$19/28; as) At Playa del
Though Ciudad del Carmen rarely sees Norte, this older lodging has a homey, well-
foreign tourists, it does have a renowned kept feel and a large swimming pool out
and colorful Carnaval celebration, which back. Unfortunately, since Pemex erected
makes for a fabulous experience. Another offices between the property and the beach-
exciting event is the Festival de Nuestra Señora front, the balconies have lost their appeal.
de Carmen, which kicks off July 16, when Hotel del Parque (%382-3046; hdelparque@pro
the port’s patron saint is taken on a cruise digy.net.mx; Calle 33 btwn Calles 20 & 22; r US$41; a)
around the harbor, and continues till the Comfortable, convenient and also cordially
end of the month. managed, this clay block lodging down by
the malecón offers modern, freshly painted
Orientation & Information rooms along a noise-reducing corridor.
Ciudad del Carmen takes up the western
part of Isla del Carmen, with the center Eating
of town at its western extremity and the At the foot of the Puente Zacatal, the zone
main plaza and malecón facing the channel called La Puntilla has a string of fine sea-
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
Saturday) for under US$100. nates. It is actually a hybrid of styles fus-
Both 1st-class ADO and 2nd-class Sur ing elements from the Chenes region to
buses use Ciudad del Carmen’s modern ter- the north and Petén to the south. Río Bec
minal (%382-0680; Av Periférica s/n), a 15-minute structures are characterized by long, low
taxi ride (US$2.50, after dark US$3) east of buildings divided into three sections, with
the main plaza. Some key destinations: a huge ‘monster’ mouth glaring from a
Campeche (US$12.50-15; 3hr; hourly 1st-class ADO, 2 central doorway. The façades are decorated
deluxe ADO-GL) with smaller masks and geometric designs.
Mérida (US$23-27; 5hr; 11 ADO, 2 ADO-GL) At each end are tall, smoothly rounded
Mexico City (US$63-78; 13½hr; 6 ADO, 2 ADO-GL) towers with banded tiers supporting small
Villahermosa (US$9.50-11.50; 3hr; ADO every 45min false temples flanked by extremely steep,
until midnight, 4 ADO-GL) nonfunctional steps.
of Spanish can find more details in the ex- glimpse wild ocellated turkeys, parrots and
planatory diagrams that front the frieze. toucans among the 235 bird species that
The solid stone that hid it for centuries reside or fly through here. You may also
has been replaced with a protective canopy come across peccaries, agoutis or howler
with slit windows that let in a little light. monkeys, as well as numerous lizards and
The door is kept locked, but the site custo- snakes. Five of the six wild cats found in
dian will usually appear to open it and give Mexico inhabit the reserve, including the
you a tour (no flash photography allowed). sacred jaguar. The earlier you come, the
Balamkú is 60km west of Xpujil (2km more you’re likely to spot.
past the Calakmul turnoff), then 3km north From about AD 250 to 695, Calakmul
of the highway along a fissured road. was the leading city in a vast region known
as the Kingdom of the Serpent’s Head. Its
CALAKMUL decline began with the power struggles and
A major city during Maya times, Calakmul internal conflicts that followed the defeat by
(%555-150-2073; admission US$3) was discovered Tikal of Calakmul’s King Garra de Jaguar
in 1931 by American botanist Cyrus Lun- (Jaguar Claw). Calakmul flourished again in
dell. The site bears comparison in size and the Late Classic period by forming alliances
historical significance to Tikal in Guate- with the Río Bec powers to the north.
mala, its chief rival for hegemony over the As at Tikal, there are indications that
southern lowlands during the Classic era. construction occurred over a period of
A central chunk of its 72-sq-km expanse more than a millennium. Beneath Edificio
has been consolidated and partially restored VII, archaeologists discovered a burial crypt
but, owing to ecological considerations, with some 2000 pieces of jade, and tombs
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
clearing has been kept to a minimum. Most continue to yield spectacular jade burial
of the city’s approximately 7200 remnants masks; many of these objects are on display
lie covered in jungle; exploration and resto- in the state capital’s Fuerte de San Miguel
ration are ongoing. (p213). The cleared area of Calakmul holds
Visiting Calakmul is as much an ecologi- at least 120 carved stelae, the oldest dating
cal as an historical experience. Lying at the from 435 BC, registering key events such as
heart of the vast, untrammeled Reserva de la the ascent to power of kings and the out-
Biósfera Calakmul (which covers close to 13% come of conflicts with rival states.
of the state’s total territory), the ruins are From the ticket booth at the end of
surrounded by rain forest, with cedar, ma- the road to the ruins is about a 1km walk
hogany, sapodilla and rubber trees dotting through the woods. Arrows point out three
a seemingly endless canopy of vegetation. suggested walks, a long, medium and short
While wandering amidst the ruins, you may route. The short route leads straight to
the Gran Plaza; the long route directs you
through the Gran Acrópolis before sending
THE ROAD TO RUINS you to the main attractions.
The Gran Plaza, with loads of stelae in
Maya sites around Xpujil are most conven- front of its buildings (Estructura V has the
iently reached by organized tour (see p233) best ones), makes a good first stop, and
or taxi. The following taxi fares are for the climbing the enormous Estructura II, at the
round trip from Xpujil; add US$6 per hour south side of the plaza, is a must. Each of
for waiting while you’re visiting the site. You this pyramid’s sides is 140m long, giving it
can usually negotiate a fare to several sites a footprint of just under 2 hectares – one of
on the same route for little more than the the largest known Maya structures. After a
fare to one. good climb you’ll reach a temple occupying
Balamkú: US$60 what appears to be the top of the building,
Calakmul: US$60 but you have to go around it to the left
to reach the real apex. From here, more
Chicanná: US$7.50
than 50m above the forest floor, you’ll enjoy
Becán: US$7.50 magnificent views over the jungle canopy
Hormiguero: US$18 to the photographable Estructura I to the
southeast and north across the plaza to
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t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com E S C Á R C E G A T O X P U J I L • • C h i c a n n á 231
Estructura VII. Facing southwest, you’ll be get into nature without roughing it too
looking toward the Maya city El Mirador, much. Fifteen spacious bungalows with
in neighboring Guatemala, and with the aid jungly décor and overhead fans spread out
of binoculars you may be able to spot that from the main cabin, where you can dine
site’s towering El Tigre pyramid. on a forest-view terrace until 8pm. A small,
A path on the left (east) side of Estruc- kidney-shaped pool at the far end keeps
tura II leads past the palatial Estructura III, filling up with leaves, a sore point with the
with a dozen rooms atop a raised platform. beleaguered staff. Reservations can be made
Archaeologists found a tomb inside the 5th- at Hotel del Mar (p218) in Campeche.
century structure that contained the body
of a male ruler of Calakmul surrounded by Getting There & Away
offerings of jade, ceramics and shell beads, Xtampak Tours (p216) in Campeche and
and wearing not one but three jade mo- Río Bec Dreams (p232) near Chicanná run
saic masks (one each on his face, chest and tours to Calakmul.
belt). Walking south you come to Estruc- By car, the turnoff to Calakmul is 56km
tura I, Calakmul’s second great pyramid, west of Xpujil, and the site is 60km south
which is about as tall as II. (Lundell named of the highway at the end of a decent paved
the site Calakmul, Maya for ‘two adjacent road. A toll of US$3.75 per car (more for
mounds,’ in reference to the pair of then- heavier vehicles) and US$2 per person is
unexcavated pyramids that dominated the levied by the municipio (township) of Ca-
site.) The steep climb pays off handsomely lakmul at the turnoff from Hwy 186. You’ll
with more top-of-the-world views. need to register at the Semarnat post.
A trail leading west from Estructura I
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
around the back of Estructura II takes CHICANNÁ
you to the Gran Acrópolis, a labyrinthine Aptly named ‘House of the Snake’s Jaws,’
residential zone with a ceremonial sector this Maya site (%555-150-2071; admission US$2.75;
containing a ball court. From the northern h8am-5pm) is best known for one remark-
perimeter of this zone, you head east (right) ably well-preserved doorway with a hideous
and follow the path back to the entrance. fanged visage. Located 11km west of Xpujil
and 400m south of the highway, Chicanná
Sleeping & Eating is a mixture of Chenes and Río Bec archi-
Rangers allow camping at the Semarnat post tectural styles buried in the jungle. The city
(hfrom 6am), 20km down the road from the attained its peak during the Late Classic
Conhuas; they appreciate a donation if you period, from AD 550 to 700, as a sort of
use the shower and toilets. Bear in mind that elite suburb of Becán.
it can get chilly on this plateau in winter Beyond the admission pavilion, follow
months – up to three blankets’ worth. the rock paths through the jungle to Estruc-
Campamento Yaax’che (%983-871-6064; ciitcal tura XX (AD 830), which boasts not one but
[email protected]; site per person US$5, with tent two monster-mouth doorways, one above
from US$10) More than just a campground, the other. The top structure is impressively
Yaax’che, 7km along the access road, is the flanked by rounded stacks of crook-nosed
base for tours by Servidores Turísticos Ca- Chac masks.
lakmul (p233), a training center for local A five-minute walk along the jungle path
guides and an experiment in sustainable brings you to Grupo C, with what remains
ecotourism. You can rent a prepitched of some of the earliest buildings. Continue
tent or set up your own under a thatched along the main path about 120m northeast
shelter. There’s no electricity (rent lanterns to reach the main plaza. Standing on the east
for US$2.75) and facilities are primitive – side is Chicanná’s famous Estructura II, with
douse-yourself showers and lime decom- its gigantic Chenes-style monster-mouth
position latrines. Regional fare is prepared doorway, believed to depict the jaws of the
over wood fires with variable results. god Itzamná, lord of the heavens, creator
Villas Puerta Calakmul (%981-811-9191, 800- of all things. Also worth examining here
849-3996; [email protected]; cabanas US$86; s ) are the painted glyphs to the right of the
This jungle lodge 700m from the highway mask. When you’re done snapping photos,
turnoff is designed for those who want to take the path leading from the right corner
232 E S C Á R C E G A T O X P U J I L • • B e c á n www.lonelyplanet.com
of Estructura II to reach nearby Estructura You may, however, scale Estructura VIII, the
VI with some beautiful profile masks upon huge temple on your right with a pair of
the façade and a well-preserved roofcomb. towers flanking a colonnaded façade at the
Circle around back, noting the red-painted top. It’s a great vantage point for photos of
blocks of the west wing, then turn right to Estructura IX and supposedly for views of
hike back to the main entrance. the Xpujil ruins to the east. Across the plaza
Río Bec Dreams (%983-124-0501; www.riobecdre from VIII is Estructura X, with fragments of
ams.com; Hwy 186 Km 142; cabanas with/without bathroom an Earth Monster mask still visible around
US$77/38) provides unquestionably the best the central doorway. The other side of X
accommodation in the area. This Canadian- opens onto the west plaza, with a ritual ball
run jungle lodge has thatched-roofed ‘jun- court. As you loop around Estructura X
galows’ sharing a bathhouse and cabanas to the south, check out the encased stucco
with private bathrooms in the woods. En- mask on display.
vironmentally sound facilities include com- From this point you are routed through
posting toilets, rainwater collection devices woods to still another massive edifice, Estruc-
and solar electricity. There’s a delightful tura I, which takes up one side of the east-
open-air restaurant serving Euro-Canadian ern plaza. Its splendid south wall is flanked
cuisine and a low-key bar with an excellent by a pair of amazing Río Bec towers rising
library, all set amidst lovingly designed gar- 15m. Ascend the structure on the right side
dens. Enthusiastic and knowledgeable pro- and follow the terrace alongside a series
moters of the zone, owners Rick and Diane of vaulted rooms back to the other end,
also conduct highly recommended tours of where a passage leads you into the Plaza
Calakmul, Río Bec and other sites in the del Este. The most significant structure here
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
area. Look for the flags on the north side of is Estructura IV, on the opposite side of the
the highway 2km west of Chicanná. plaza; experts surmise it was a residence for
Becán’s aristocrats. A stairway leads to an
BECÁN upstairs courtyard ringed by seven rooms
The Maya word for ‘canyon’ or ‘moat’ is with cross motifs on either side of the door-
Becán (%555-150-2069; admission US$3) and in- ways. Finally, you descend the north façade
deed a 2km moat snakes its way around this of Estructura IV, with more intricately dec-
major site, with seven causeways provid- orated panels, completing the circle.
ing access to the 12-hectare complex. The
elaborate defense suggests the militaristic XPUJIL
nature of the city which, from around AD %983 / pop 2136
600 to 1000, was a regional capital encom- The truck-stop hamlet of Xpujil (shpu-heel)
passing Xpujil and Chicanná. A strategic lies at the intersection of east–west Hwy
crossroads between the Petenes civilization 186 and the road north to Hopelchén (and
to the south and Chenes to the north, Becán eventually Mérida). From this junction
displays architectural elements of both, westward are the ruins of Xpuhil (less than
with the resulting composite known as the 1km), Becán (8km), Chicanná (11.5km)
Río Bec style. Located 8km west of Xpujil and Balamkú (60km); to the south are the
and 500m north of the highway, this must- remote sites of Río Bec and Hormiguero.
visit site contains three separate architec- While hardly an attractive base for visiting
tural complexes, and you should set aside at these sites, Xpujil does offer a cybercafé,
least two hours to explore it properly. a guide service, a handful of hotels, some
You enter the complex via the western unexceptional eateries and a taxi stand, all
causeway, skirting a plaza on your left – within 1km of the bus depot. The only gas
more about that later. Proceed through a station between Escárcega and Chetumal
66m-long arched passageway and you will is 5km east of town. What Xpujil does not
emerge onto the Plaza Central, ringed by have is a bank or ATM.
three monumental structures. The formida- A far more appealing base is the vil-
ble Estructura IX, on the plaza’s north side, is lage of Zoh-Laguna, 10km north along the
Becán’s tallest building at 32m. Though its Hopelchén road. Though easily accessible
steeply ascending southern staircase may be from Xpujil by taxi (US$3), it is sufficiently
tempting, you are not supposed to climb it. removed from the highway for a peaceful
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t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com E S C Á R C E G A T O X P U J I L • • X p u j i l 233
night’s sleep. During the 1940s the now- Sleeping & Eating
somnolent village boomed as a logging The nicest and most reasonably priced ac-
center. Zoh-Laguna’s interesting history commodations are in Zoh-Laguna, 10km
is illustrated photographically in its small north of Xpujil. They are all contactable by
museum (admission free; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri), op- dialing %200-125-6587, the village’s cen-
posite Hotel Bosque Modelo. tral phone booth; say what hotel you want
and wait a few minutes. All of the Xpujil
Tours options are along the main highway; have
Rick and Diane at Río Bec Dreams (oppo- earplugs handy at bedtime.
site), near Chicanná, provide 4WD tours
with well-informed commentary to Calak- ZOH-LAGUNA
mul, Río Bec and some lesser-known sites Hotel Bosque Modelo (bosquemodelocalakmul@hotmail
such as Oxpemul and Manos Rojas. They .com; r US$12) This small wooden structure is a
charge US$80 to US$100 for an eight- to typical leftover from the mid-20th century
10-hour day, depending on driving time and logging boom. There are six simple rooms
accessibility of the site. You don’t need to be with single beds and hammock hooks. This
staying at Río Bec Dreams to join the tour. is where the French archaeologists have
Servidores Turísticos Calakmul (%871-6064; ciit stayed when working on the Río Bec site.
[email protected]; Carretera Escárcega-Chetumal Km Cabañas El Viajero (cabanas US$13, r US$19)
153; h8-11am & noon-3pm Mon-Sat), around 200m Travelers can choose from neat little cabins
east of the Xpujil junction, provides ecotours or more luxurious air-conditioned rooms
led by trained guides from nearby communi- across the street. All meals are prepared in
ties. In addition to tours of Maya sites in the the sparkling kitchen.
C A M P E C H E S TAT E
area, it also offers nature walks, plant iden- Cabañas Mercedes (s/d US$14/19; p) The best
tification, and bird-watching tours, photo value place in the area has 13 thoughtfully
safaris and rural tourism experiences such designed bungalows with ceiling fans and
as visits to beekeepers and organic farms. large, tiled bathrooms. Good home-cooked
On one popular excursion you can observe meals are served in the thatched-roof dining
millions of bats emerging from a cenote. hall. Don Antonio is both a gracious and
One-day tours to Calakmul for up to 10 peo- well-informed host, who can take you to the
ple cost US$55; three- to four-day camping major Maya sites.
packages run at US$140. Reservations for the
latter should be made a month in advance. XPUJIL
Look for head honchos Fernando and Leticia Cabañas de Don Jorge (%871-6128; cabanas US$10)
at the office or the Yaax’che campground Don Jorge’s rustic but perfectly acceptable
(p231) along the road to Calakmul. clapboard cabins sit up on a hill behind
his store-eatery, Cocina Económica Xpu-
Xpuhil (Xpujil) Ruins jil, which is opposite the entrance to the
Within walking distance of the town of a Xpuhil ruins.
similar name, Xpuhil (admission US$2.75) boasts a El Mirador Maya (%871-6005; Carretera Chetumal-
surreal skyscraper that is a striking example Escárcega Km 152; 2-person bungalow US$32) A bit of
of the Río Bec style. The three towers (rather a hike from the bus station, these sparsely
than the usual two) of Estructura I rise above furnished cabins have nice little porches
a dozen vaulted rooms. The central tower, facing a palm-shaded court. There’s a
soaring 53m, is the best preserved. With its pleasant if overpriced restaurant under a
banded tiers and impractically steep stair- big thatched roof.
ways leading up to a temple that displays Hotel Calakmul (%871-6029; 2-person cabana
traces of a zoomorphic mask, it gives a good without bathroom US$19, d with air-con US$37; pa)
idea of what the other two must have looked About 350m west of the junction, this ster-
like back in Xpuhil’s 8th-century heyday. ile roadside motel has standard tiled units
Go around back to see a fierce jaguar mask plus a handful of cramped bungalows out
embedded in the wall below the temple. the back. The restaurant, though, comes
The site’s entrance is on the west edge of highly recommended.
town on the north side of Hwy 186, at the Aside from the hotel restaurants, there
turnoff for the airport. are various greasy spoons clustered around
234 E S C Á R C E G A T O X P U J I L • • A r o u n d X p u j i l www.lonelyplanet.com
the bus station and roadside taquerías (taco This site is reached by heading 14km
places) toward the Xpuhil ruins. Try Antoji- south from Xpujil junction, then turning
tos Mimi (h7am-10pm), opposite Hotel Calak- right and going 8km west on what was once
mul, for some pretty fine salbutes and an a paved road, still passable except following
ice-cold agua de jamaica. heavy rains.
a cab. Official taxi fares are given in each site after a nearby water source, this palatial
site’s section; waiting time is figured at structure features a pair of typical tiered tow-
US$5.50 an hour. The taxi stand is on the ers crowned by matching temples with cross
north side of the junction. motifs on their sides. Much of the current
restoration work is being done at Grupo A,
AROUND XPUJIL to the north of Grupo B. Its main struc-
Hormiguero ture is a 15m-long palace with intact towers
Though not easy to reach, Hormiguero (%555- and unusual bas-relief glyphs on the lower
150-2075; admission free) has many mind-blowing panels.
buildings that will impress even the most Access to the sites is from the collec-
jaded explorer. An old site, with buildings tive farm of Ejido 20 de Noviembre. To
dating as far back as AD 50, the city (whose get there, turn south off Hwy 186, about
name is Spanish for ‘anthill’) flourished dur- 10km east of the Xpujil junction, and fol-
ing the late Classic period. low a potholed road 5km to the community
As you enter you’ll see the 50m-long and its U’lu’um Chac Yuk Nature Reserve.
Estructura II. The façade’s chief feature is a From there, a very rough road leads 13km
very menacing Chenes-style monster-mouth further south to the site. It’s only passable
doorway, jaws open wide, set back between when dry and even then you need a high-
a pair of classic Río Bec tiered towers. Walk- clearance vehicle. Furthermore, the way
ing around the back of the building you can is unsigned with many twists and turns.
see solid intact Maya stonework and the re- You’re best off hiring a guide with a 4WD
mains of several columns. Follow the arrows truck. It’s possible to arrange this in Xpujil
60m to the north to reach Estructura V, with or at the Ejido; the going rate is US$60 to
a much smaller but equally ornate open- US$70. A taxi from Xpujil’s main junction
jawed temple atop a pyramidal base. Climb to the Ejido will charge US$6 for drop-off
the right side for a closer look at the incred- service; negotiate waiting time. Alterna-
ibly detailed stonework, especially along the tively, check with Río Bec Dreams (p232)
corner columns that flank the doorway. near Chicanná.
235
The two states have hosted as rich a procession of cultures as anywhere in Mexico. It was
at La Venta in western Tabasco that Mesoamerica’s ‘mother culture,’ the Olmec, reached
its greatest heights of development, between about 800 and 400 BC. Olmec religion, art,
astronomy and architecture deeply influenced all Mexico’s later civilizations.
Low-lying, jungle-covered eastern Chiapas gave rise to some of the most splendid and
powerful city-states of another great civilization, the Maya, during its Classic period. Remains
of these can be seen at Palenque and Yaxchilán. Dozens of lesser Maya powers – including
Bonampak and Comalcalco – prospered in eastern Chiapas and in Tabasco as Maya culture
reached its peak of artistic and intellectual achievement. Today, the modern Maya are best
observed in and around the city of san Cristóbal de Las Casas.
Pre-Hispanic Tabasco was the prosperous nexus of a far-reaching trade network extending
round the Yucatán coast as far as Honduras, up the rivers to the jungles and mountains of
Guatemala, and westward to highland central Mexico. And it was near Frontera, Tabasco, in
T A B A S C O & C H I A PA S
1519 that Cortés and his conquistadors fought their first battle against native Mexicans.
HIGHLIGHTS
Puerto Ceiba
Encountering indigenous traditions in the highlands
enclave of San Cristóbal de Las Casas (p239) and Villahermosa
surrounding villages (p245)
Palenque
Prowling the ruins of Palenque (p246), a stunning
array of Maya architecture set amid the Chiapas San Cristóbal
jungle de Las Casas Bonampak
district of modern commercial and govern- As an oil town, Villahermosa is well sup-
ment buildings. plied with midrange and top-end hotels
There are many cybercafés (per hr US$0.75-1) in with good amenities, some offering dis-
the Zona Luz, along with numerous banks counted weekend rates.
and the post office (Sáenz 131; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri, Hotel Oriente (%312-0121; fax 312-1101; Madero
9am-1pm Sat). A tourist office (%314-1642, 800-216- 425; s/d/tr with fan US$18/25/31, with air-con US$27/33/42;
0842; www.visitetabasco.com; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun) is a) A well-run downtown hotel with com-
located at the Parque-Museo La Venta. fortable spick-and-span rooms.
Hotel Madan (%314-0524, 800-543-4777; www
Sights .bestwestern.com; Madero 408; r US$50; pa) The
Apart from Parque-Museo La Venta, the good-value Madan has bright, spacious
pedestrianized Zona Luz is enjoyable to ex- rooms with wooden furniture, coffeemakers
plore. Its busy lanes, full of hawkers’ stalls and attractive bathrooms.
and salsa-blaring stores, are dotted with Hotel Cencali (%315-1999, 800-112-5000; www
cafés and galleries and buzz with tropical .cencali.com.mx; Av Juárez, Colonia Lindavista; r US$82;
atmosphere. pnais) The Cencali, near Parque-
Museo La Venta, has 160 good-sized rooms
PARQUE-MUSEO LA VENTA with balconies, bathtubs and some views
The outdoor park (%314-1652; Av Ruíz Cortines; of the Laguna de las Ilusiones. A swim-
admission US$3.75; h8am-5pm, last admission 4pm, zoo ming pool is in tropical gardens beside
closed Mon; c) was created in 1958 when pe- the lake.
www.lonelyplanet.com TA B A S C O • • V i l l a h e r m o s a 237
0 60 km
TABASCO & CHIAPAS
ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ
0 40 miles
ὅὅ
93ºW To Campeche 91ºW
(130km)
ὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ ὅὅ
ὅὅ
Gulf of Mexico
ὅὅ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ
MEX
Reserva de la 261 To Chetumal
Ciudad del
ὅὅ ὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅὅὅὅὅὅ
ὅὅ
ὅὅὅ
Biósfera Pántanos MEX
(120km)
de Centla MEX Carmen Laguna de
180 186
Bahía de Campeche Frontera Terminos Escárcega
ὅὅὅὅ
Paraíso
ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
Laguna Campeche
El Carmen Comalcalco Río
MEX MEX
Comalcalco 180 Us
Coatzacoalcos um 186 Candelaria Reserva de
La Venta Jonuta
MEX Tabasco la Biósfera
ac
La Venta
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
180D Cárdenas Calakmul
i nt a
MEX
VILLAHERMOSA
180
R ío
To Puebla
Reforma Ciudad Ca
Huimanguillo Pemex nd
ὈὈὈ
MEX Catazajá Emiliano Zapata el a
ri a
ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ
186
Teapa Palenque
Reserva de la
Tenosique Biósfera Maya
Pichucalco Palenque
Veracruz
MEX
Misol-Ha Río Chancalá La Palma
195 Sa n
ᝲᝲᝲ
Presa
Tila Agua R ío Pe d r o
Azul Agua Clara
ὈὈὈ
Netzahualcóyotl Piedras El Naranjo
Simojovel
ὅ
Rí Negras Ca Parque Nacional
17ºN o Cañón del rre de la Sierra 17ºN
La
Fro
ter del Lacandón
Ve a
nt
Sumidero
ὅ
ᝲᝲᝲ er
nt Ocosingo Yaxchilán
iza
Oaxaca a Soyaló Toniná La Técnica La Libertad
San Cristóbal San Javier
MEX Frontera Corozal
Ocozocoautla 190 de Las Casas
Cintalapa Altamirano Bethel El Subín
To Juchitán TUXTLA Bonampak
Chiapa de Corzo Amatenango Reserva de la
ὈὈ
GUTIÉRREZ Biósfera Montes Benemérito Sayaxché Ceibal
ᝲᝲᝲ
MEX del Valle Azules
190
MEX
MEX de las Pipiles
190 195 Laguna Américas
Las San Quintín Dos Pilas
Chiapas Miramar Pico de
Venustiano Margaritas
Mar Arriaga Carranza La Realidad Oro
Comitán PN Lagunas 5
Muerto MEX Chajul Reforma
ᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲᝲ
de Montebello Ixcán
200 Agraria
Tonalá La Trinitaria
Paredón Presa La
ὈὈ
Ὀ
Angostura MEX
Puerto Reserva 190 Playa
Arista de la Biósfera Jaltenango Grande
(Ángel Albino
ᝲᝲᝲ
ᝲᝲ
Boca El Triunfo
del Cielo Corzo)
La Mesilla
GUATEMALA
Pijijiapan Reserva Natural
Ciudad
Cuauhtémoc Parque Nacional Cerro Bisís 5
El Los Cuchumatanes
PACIFIC Reserva So Mapastepec Cobán
ᝲᝲᝲ
co
OCEAN de la Biósfera nu Motozintla Huehuetenango
La Encrucijada sc Escuintla
o
Sacapulas
Barra de Embarcadero
Las Garzas Huixtla Tacaná (4110m) 1 Salamá 14
Zacapulco
15ºN MEX Uníon Juárez 15ºN
200 Izapa Talismán
San José El Carmen 5
Quetzaltenango
El Hueyate 9
Mazatán Tapachula
T A B A S C O & C H I A PA S
Puerto Lago de
Madero Ciudad Ciudad Atitlán Chimaltenango
Hidalgo Tecún Umán
GUATEMALA
Antigua CITY
2
93ºW 91ºW
‘Chedraui,’ ‘ADO’ or ‘Cardesa’ combi north 250m west of Comalcalco’s central plaza
on Malecón Madrazo. and Finca Cholula (%933-344-3815; Carretera Comal-
calco-Paraíso) is 1km further north of the ar-
AROUND VILLAHERMOSA cheological site.
Comalcalco
The impressive Maya ruins of Comalcalco (ad- Gulf of Mexico Beaches
mission US$3.25; h10am-4pm) are around 51km Between 20km and 30km north of Comal-
northwest of Villahermosa and 3.5km north calco, several wide, sandy beaches front the
of the town of Comalcalco. Many of the warm, clean waters of the Gulf of Mexico.
site’s buildings are uniquely constructed of At one beach area, Puerto Ceiba, the Para-
fired bricks and/or mortar made from oys- dor Turístico Puerto Ceiba (%933-333-2257; 5 de
ter shells. Maya Comalcalco was at its peak Febrero s/n; mains US$7-8; hnoon-7pm or later) offers
between AD 600 and 1000 when ruled by boat rides around lagoons and mangroves
the Chontals. It was an important center between 10am and 6pm (a 1¼-hour trip
of commerce for several centuries, trad- for up to 14 people costs US$28). It also
ing in a cornucopia of pre-Hispanic luxury rents kayaks.
goods. Paraíso’s ADO terminal (%333-0235; Av Romero
The site’s museum has a fine array of Zurita), 1.5km south of the center, has 2nd-
sculptures and engravings of human heads, class buses to Villahermosa (US$2.75, two
deities, glyphs and animals such as croco- hours, every half-hour). A taxi to Paraíso’s
diles and pelicans. The buildings have use- beaches costs US$2 to US$3.
www.lonelyplanet.com C H I A PA S • • S a n C r i s t ó b a l d e L a s C a s a s 239
Reserva de la Biósfera Pantanos de (see p242), and it’s still impossible not to no-
Centla tice Zapatista as you travel round Chiapas.
This 3030-sq-km reserve protects a good
part of the wetlands around the lower SAN CRISTÓBAL DE LAS CASAS
reaches of two of Mexico’s biggest rivers, the %967 / pop 129,000
Usumacinta and the Grijalva. These lakes, San Cristóbal (cris-toh-bal), at an elevation
marshes, rivers, mangroves, savannas and of 2160m in the temperate, pine-clad Valle
forests are an irreplaceable sanctuary for de Jovel, is at the heart of one of the most
countless creatures including the West In- deeply rooted indigenous areas in Mexico,
dian manatee and Morelet’s crocodile (both surrounded by dozens of Tzotzil and Tzeltal
endangered), various tortoise species, tapirs, villages where age-old customs coexist with
ocelots, jaguars, howler monkeys, 60 fish elements of modernity.
species including the pejelagarto, and 230 The city is a gathering place for an ever-
bird species – not to mention 15,000 people changing community of artsy, socially aware
scattered in 90 small waterside villages. Mexicans and foreigners and for sympa-
Punta Manglar (%993-315-4491 in Villahermosa; thizers (and some opponents) of the Zapa-
Carretera Frontera-Jonuta Km 10; h9am-5pm) is an tista rebels, and a base for organizations
embarkation point for boat-and-foot excur- working with Chiapas’ indigenous people.
sions into the mangroves (up to 10 people San Cristóbal also has a terrific selection of
US$94) that last one to 1½ hours. The visi- accommodations, and a cosmopolitan array
tors center, Centro de Interpretación Uyotot-Ja of cafés, bars and restaurants.
(%993-313-9362; Carretera Frontera-Jonuta Km 12.5; ad-
mission by donation; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun), maintains Orientation
a 20m-high observation tower overlooking The city is easy to walk around, with straight
the confluence of three large rivers at a spot streets rambling up and down gentle hills.
known as Tres Brazos (Three Arms). Na- The Pan-American Hwy (Hwy 190, Blvd
ture trail guides, displays on the wetlands, Juan Sabines, ‘El Bulevar’) runs through the
and two-hour boat trips (up to 10 people southern part of town. Nearly all transpor-
US$141) are available. tation terminals are on or just off the Pan-
Gray combis and colectivo taxis from American. From the OCC bus terminal, it’s
Calle Madero in nearby Frontera (one to six blocks north to the central square, Plaza
1½ blocks south of the plaza) charge US$1 31 de Marzo. A long pedestrian mall, the
for the 15-minute trip to Punta Manglar Andador Turístico (or Andador Eclesiás-
or Uyotot-Ja. tico), runs north up Avenidas Hidalgo and
From the Frontera ADO terminal (%913-332- 20 de Noviembre from the Arco de El Car- T A B A S C O & C H I A PA S
1149; Zaragoza 609), six blocks from the plaza, 1st- men to the Templo de Santo Domingo,
class buses leave for Villahermosa (US$3.75, crossing Plaza 31 de Marzo en route.
1½ hours, 25 daily) and Campeche (US$14
to US$16, 4½ hours, three daily). Information
Banamex (Plaza 31 de Marzo; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri,
10am-2pm Sat) Has an ATM and does currency exchange.
CHIAPAS Cybercafés (per hr about US$0.60) Many along Real de
Guadalupe and the Andador Turístico.
Chiapas is a fascinating, exciting place to Hospital Amigo del Niño y de la Madre (%678-
visit, with wildly beautiful landscapes, rich 0770; Insurgentes)
and mysterious indigenous cultures, the co- HSBC (Mazariegos 6; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-
lonial charm of San Cristóbal de Las Casas, 2:30pm Sun) Has an ATM and does currency exchange.
an array of exotic Maya ruins and an ever- Instituto Nacional de Migración (%678-6594;
improving tourism infrastructure. Diagonal El Centenario 30) About 1.2km west of the OCC
Due to its oil and gas resources the cities bus station on the Pan-American Hwy.
and towns are home to a growing middle La Pared (%/fax 678-6367; Hidalgo 2; h10am-2pm
class. Yet despite this wealth, the people of & 4-8pm Tue-Sat, noon-2pm & 4-8pm Sun) Sells new and
rural Chiapas are among the poorest in the used books in English, including guidebooks, and offers the
country. These inequities helped spark the cheapest international calls: US$0.15 a minute to the USA
state’s Zapatista revolutionary movement and Canada, US$0.20 to Western Europe.
240 C H I A PA S • • S a n C r i s t o b a l d e L a s C a s a s www.lonelyplanet.com
Lázaro Cárdenas
Colombia
Díaz Ordaz
16 de Septiembre
14
Mercado
Ecuador
Arge
Templo de
ὈὈ
Los Mexicanos
Re Nicarag
ua iaga
al d l Arr
eM ona
exi Diag
Brasil can
Canada
os Tonalá
38
2 Venezuela Iglesia Chiapa de Corzo
17 El Cerrillo
Yajalon
Dujelay
Plaza
Colón
Comitán
Park Templo de
Escuadrón 20 la Caridad Tapachula
1
29
(Anador Túristico)
Dr N
2 avar
ro
Cintalapa
Belisario Domínguez
35
Ejército Nacional
r 28 de Agosto
A m a illo 24
Río
Paniagua
20 de Noviembre
3 1 de Marzo
Utrilla
5 de Mayo
Ὀ Ὀ
12 de Octubre
11
22 34 MA Flores
36 21
33 32
5 de Febrero 9 44
To Instituto Nacional 26 18 20
de Migración (600m); 30 Real de Guadalupe
Reserva Ecológica 28
Huitepec (3km); Guadalupe Victoria 47 16
Plaza 31 27
San Juan Chamula (10km); Palacio 7 de Marzo 1
San Lorenzo Madero
Municipal Santiago
Zinacantán (11km) 45 37
Mazariegos 4 25
(Anador Túristico)
12
19
6
Plazuela
5 JF Flores
Insurgentes
Templo del de la
Calvario Merced Cuauhtémoc
4 Ro Templo de
Juárez
sse la Compañía
te
Ὀ
León
T A B A S C O & C H I A PA S
Hermanos Domínguez
Templo del
Carmen 8 Park INFORMATION
l
10
e
ba
Banamex (ATM)......................1 C4
Crescencio Rosas
d
o El Locutorio..............................2 B3
tó
rr s
C e Cri Hospital Amigo del Niño y de
a n la Madre..............................3 C5
S 3
HSBC (ATM)............................4 B4
5 La Pared...................................5 B4
Main Post Office......................6 B4
Obregón Municipal Tourist Office...........7 B4
Sarabia
Allende
0
0
200 m
0.1 miles Main post office (%678-0765; Allende 3)
23
Municipal tourist office (%678-0665; Palacio
E F Municipal, Plaza 31 de Marzo; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri,
9am-8pm Sat & Sun)
1 Sights
The cathedral, on the north side of Plaza
31 de Marzo, was begun in 1528 but wasn’t
Calzada Ro
rero
Huix
THE ZAPATISTAS
On January 1, 1994, the day of the North American Free Trade Agreement’s (Nafta) initiation, a
previously unknown leftist guerrilla army, the Ejército Zapatista de Liberación Nacional (EZLN),
emerged from the woods to occupy San Cristóbal de Las Casas and other towns in Chiapas.
Linking antiglobalization rhetoric with Mexican revolutionary slogans, the Zapatistas (as they’re
better known) declared their intentions to overturn a wealthy oligarchy’s centuries-old hold on
land, resources and power and to fight to improve the wretched living standards of Mexico’s
indigenous people.
The Mexican army evicted the Zapatistas within days (most of the 150 people killed dur-
T A B A S C O & C H I A PA S
ing the fighting were Zapatistas) and the rebels retreated to jungle hideouts on the fringes of
the Selva Lacandona. Here they launched an effective propaganda blitz on the Internet (the
main Zapatista-affiliated website is www.ezln.org.mx). The Zapatistas’ charismatic pipe-puffing
Subcomandante Marcos (actually a former university professor named Rafael Guillén) rapidly
became a cult figure. International supporters flocked to Zapatista headquarters at La Realidad,
about 85km southeast of Ocosingo. Zapatista-aligned peasants took over hundreds of farms
and ranches in Chiapas.
In 1996 an agreement on indigenous rights was reached between Zapatista and government
negotiators, though the government never turned the accords into law. Zapatistas later created
several ‘autonomous municipalities.’ In 1997 right-wing paramilitaries responded by massacring
45 people in the village of Acteal.
Hopes of a fresh start rose in 2000 when non-PRI President Vicente Fox was elected. Attempts
to make the necessary constitutional changes failed, however, as Congress watered down EZLN
proposals.
Since then, the Zapatistas have come out of the jungle and under the tolerant eyes of the
government and have made well-publicized tours around the country to promote their views
and gain supporters. Most recently, in the run-up to the 2006 elections, Subcomandante Marcos
launched La Otra Campaña (The Other Campaign) in repudiation of the three leading political
parties and their candidates, although Marcos himself has not declared any intention of partici-
pating in the conventional political process.
Book
w w waccommodations
. l o n e l y p l a n e online
t . c o mat www.lonelyplanet.com C H I A PA S • • S a n C r i s t ó b a l d e L a s C a s a s 243
Drinking & Entertainment 1748) flies direct once daily to/from Villaher-
For genuine, indigenous-grown (and tasty) mosa, Mérida and Cancún from Aeropuerto
coffee stop by Café Museo Café (%678-7876; Francisco Sarabia (% 671-5311; Carretera Escuela
MA Flores 10; h9am-9:30pm), which also has an de Veterinaria Km 1.5), also called Aeropuerto
excellent museum (admission US$1) ex- Terán. Taxi-vans (US$18, 1½ hours) depart
plaining coffee cultivation in Chiapas, or directly from the airport to San Cristóbal
Cafetería Maya (%678-9146; 20 de Noviembre 12C; (80km) about every 30 minutes.
h8am-10pm).
Any night of the week except Sunday you BUS, COLECTIVO & VAN
can hear at least five live bands within a Around a dozen transportation terminals
couple of blocks of the plaza, in reassur- are on or just off the Pan-American Hwy.
ingly relaxed and informal venues where The 1st-class terminal of OCC (%678-0291; cnr
Mexicans and foreigners mingle easily. Pan-American Hwy & Insurgentes) is also used by
Along the Andador Turístico several pop- ADO and UNO 1st-class and deluxe buses.
ular places thump with reggae and elec- In town, tickets are sold at Ticket Bus (%678-
tronica. The city’s salseros (aficionados of 8503; Real de Guadalupe 5A; h9am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-
salsa) gather at Latino’s (%678-9927; Madero Sat, 9am-4pm Sun).
23; admission Thu-Sat US$1.50; h8pm-3am Mon-Sat). Avisa (2nd class) is 150m west of OCC
Find blues, jazz, or trova (Yucatecan songs) along the highway; 1st-class AEXA (%678-
at La Pera (%678-1209; MA Flores 23; h1-11pm) 6178) is on the south side of the highway;
and reggae and Cuban son upstairs at Madre and various Suburban-type vans and colec-
Tierra (%678-4297; Insurgentes 19; h10pm-3am). tivo taxi services have depots in the same
area. Daily departures include:
Shopping Campeche (US$27-33; 11hr; 2 from OCC terminal)
The outstanding indigenous artesanías Cancún (US$51-60; 16-18hr; 4 from OCC)
(crafts) of the Chiapas highlands are textiles Mérida (US$38-44; 13hr; 2 from OCC)
such as huipiles, blouses and blankets: Tzo- Palenque (US$7-11; 5hr; 11 from OCC, 4 AEXA)
tzil weavers are some of the most skilled and Villahermosa (US$16-24; 7-8hr; 3 from OCC)
inventive in Mexico. Another Chiapas spe-
cialty is amber, which is sold in numerous CAR & MOTORCYCLE
shops alongside silver, turquoise, jade, red Hwy 199, a 207km scenic mountain jour-
coral and lapis-lazuli in well-made jewelry. ney, connects San Cristóbal de las Casas to
The thickest clusters of craft shops are the Yucatán Peninsula and Tabasco.
on Real de Guadalupe and the Andador Optima (%674-5409; [email protected]; Maz-
T A B A S C O & C H I A PA S
Turístico. But there’s also a big range of ariegos 39) rents VW Beetles (US$52 per day –
items at good prices at the busy daily crafts less for payment in cash) and other cars with
market near Santo Domingo church. Next insurance, taxes and unlimited kilometers.
to Santo Domingo, a cooperative of 800 International car-rental companies are avail-
indigenous women weavers called Sna Jolobil able at the airport in Tuxtla Gutiérrez.
(%678-2646; Calz Lázaro Cárdenas s/n; h9am-2pm & 4-
6pm Mon-Sat) shows and sells some of the very Getting Around
best woven items. Combis go up Rosas from the Pan-American
Hwy to the town center. Taxis cost US$1.75
Getting There & Away within the town (US$2.25 after 11pm).
If traveling to/from Palenque on Hwy 199, Los Pingüinos (%678-0202 8am-8pm; Ecuador 4B;
be aware that there have been highway www.bikemexico.com/pinguinos; hoffice 10am-2:30pm
holdups on this route targeting tourist- & 3:30-7pm Mon-Sat) rents mountain bikes for
carrying vehicles, sometimes at gunpoint. three/five/nine/24 hours for US$7.50/10.50/
It’s strongly recommended to travel by day, 11.50/14.
preferably early, to minimize risks. Croozy Scooters (%631-4329; www.prodigyweb
.net.mx/croozyscooters; Belisario Domínguez 7; h9am-
AIR 7pm) rents 90cc scooters for US$7/19/24/33
San Cristóbal’s airport has no regular pas- for one/five/nine/24 hours.
senger flights. In nearby Tuxtla Gutiérrez, Both companies require you to deposit
Click Mexicana (%602-5771; Blvd Belisario Domínguez your passport.
www.lonelyplanet.com C H I A PA S • • V i l l a g e s A r o u n d S a n C r i s t ó b a l 245
large statue of a Maya chieftain’s head at museum, visiting minor ruins along the way.
the west end of town. The main bus stations Note that it’s not permitted to exit the site
are on Juárez just east of the statue, and the this way before 9am or after 4pm.
central square, El Parque, is 1km east.
A few hundred meters south from the EXPLORING THE SITE
statue the paved road to the Palenque As you enter the site, a line of temples rises
ruins diverges west off Hwy 199, passing in front of the jungle on your right, culmi-
the site museum after about 6.5km, then nating about 100m ahead at the Templo de las
winding on about 1km further to the main Inscripciones (Temple of the Inscriptions), the
entrance. tallest and most stately of Palenque’s build-
Bancomer (Juárez 96; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, ings. From the top, interior stairs lead down
10am-3pm Sat) into the tomb of Pakal (closed indefinitely
Clínica Palenque (%345-0273; Velasco Suárez 33; to avoid further damage from the humidity
h9:30am-1:30pm & 5-8pm) exuded by visitors). Pakal’s jewel-bedecked
Instituto Nacional de Migración (%345-0795; 6km skeleton and jade mosaic death mask were
north of town on Hwy 199; h8am-4pm) ‘Playas’ combis removed from the tomb to Mexico City,
run here from the Autotransportes Otolum terminal on and the tomb was re-created in the Museo
Allende (US$0.90). Nacional de Antropología (from where the
Post office (Independencia; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) priceless death mask was stolen in 1985), but
Tourist Information Office (Cnr Juárez & Abasolo; the carved stone sarcophagus lid remains at
h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) the Site Museum.
www.lonelyplanet.com C H I A PA S • • Pa l e n q u e 247
PALENQUE RUINS 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
A B C D
INFORMATION Templo de la Cruz Foliada................11 C4 Templo XXII.....................................24 B5
Guías e Interpretes Mayas..................1 A4 Templo de las Inscripciones..............12 B4 Templo XXIV....................................25 B4
Official Guide Kiosk...........................2 A4 Templo del Conde............................13 B3 Templo XXV.....................................26 A5
1 Ticket Office......................................3 A3 Templo del Jaguar............................14 B5 Tomb of Alberto Ruz Lhuillier...........27 B4
Toilets................................................4 C3 Templo del Sol.................................15 B4 Tower..............................................28 B4
Templo X..........................................16 B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Templo XI........................................17 B4 SHOPPING
Ball Court...........................................5 B3 Templo XIII......................................18 B4 Souvenir Stalls..................................29 A3
El Palacio............................................6 B4 Templo XIV......................................19 B4
Entrance.............................................7 A3 Templo XIX......................................20 B5
Museo de Sitio...................................8 D2 Templo XVII.....................................21 C5
Templo de la Calavera....................... 9 A4 Templo XX.......................................22 B5
Templo de la Cruz............................10 C4 Templo XXI......................................23 B5
8
2
To Mayabell (400m);
El Panchán (2km);
Palenque (7km)
Waterfalls
i
con as
Arroyo Bern
Puente de los
Murciélagos Grupo de los
Murciélagos
Grupo 1 Grupo 2
Baño de
La Reina
3 13 Grupo
Norte
Waterfalls
16
29 4
5
3 7 um
ol
1 2
Arroyo Ot
17 Grupo C
28
6
27
ciélagos
4 18
Arroyo Mur
12
19
15 T A B A S C O & C H I A PA S
10
25
Grupo de las Cruces
11
14 24
26 23
21
22 Acrópolis Sur
20
5
Ed Barnhart 2000
Diagonally opposite the Templo de las shaped structures surround a plaza south-
Inscripciones is El Palacio (The Palace), east of the Templo de las Inscripciones.
a large structure divided into four main The Templo del Sol (Temple of the Sun), on
courtyards, with a maze of corridors and the west side of the plaza, has the best-
rooms. Soon after the death of his father, preserved roofcomb at Palenque. Steep
Pakal’s son Kan B’alam II started designing steps climb to the Templo de la Cruz (Temple
the temples of the Grupo de las Cruces (Group of the Cross), the largest and most elegantly
of the Crosses). All three main pyramid- proportioned in this group.
248 C H I A PA S • • Pa l e n q u e Book accommodations online
w w at
w .www.lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
South of the Grupo de las Cruces is the and terraces, and attractive décor using
Acrópolis Sur, where archaeologists have re- natural materials. The smaller cabanas,
covered some terrific finds in recent exca- without bathrooms, have hammocks on a
vations. It appears to have been constructed little porch. A small pool is refreshing.
as an extension of the Grupo de las Cruces, Hotel Villas Kin-Ha (%345-0533; www.villaskinha
with both groups set around what was .com; Carretera Palenque-Ruinas Km 2.7; r US$62-82;
probably a single long, open space. pas) The Kin-Ha has more than 90
rooms and bungalows set around its pretty
Tours gardens, but doesn’t seem crowded. Most
Numerous travel agencies in Palenque offer accommodations are palm-thatched and
transportation packages to Bonampak, Yax- wood-beamed and all have air-con. The
chilán and even Tikal in Guatemala. grounds hold two good pools and an audi-
Kichan Bajlum (%345-2452; www.kichanbajlum torium where a theatrical show (US$11.50)
.com; Juárez) based on ancient Palenque is sometimes
Servicio Turístico de Palenque (%345-1340; www staged. Times vary.
.stpalenque.com; cnr Juárez & 5 de Mayo)
Viajes Kukulcan (%345-1506; www.kukulcantravel Eating & Entertainment
.com; Juárez) Palenque is definitely not the gastronomic
capital of Mexico, but there’s an improving
Sleeping dining scene and prices are fair. Most of the
Most people stay out of town at places accommodations near the ruins have their
along the road to the ruins. Many of these own restaurants.
are in El Panchán (www.elpanchan.com; Carretera Don Mucho’s (% 348-0520; El Panchán; mains
Palenque-Ruinas Km 4.5), a cluster of budget ac- US$3.50-8.50, snacks US$1.50-3.50) Don Mucho’s
commodations and eateries that includes provides great-value meals in the jungly El
nightly entertainment, a meditation tem- Panchán setting, with a magical candlelit
ple and a temazcal (a pre-Hispanic steam atmosphere at night. Busy waiters bring
bath). Combis between town and the ruins pasta, fish, plenty of antojitos (‘little whims’)
will drop and pick you up anywhere along and pizzas (cooked in an Italian-designed
this road. wood-fired oven). A live band of some sort
Margarita & Ed Cabañas (%341-0063, 916-100- usually starts up around 8 or 9pm, followed
7814; [email protected]; El Panchán; s & d cabana by the local fire-dancing troop!
US$14-15, r with fan US$14-24, with air-con US$28; Café de Yara (%345-0269; Hidalgo 66; snacks &
pa) The owners…yep, Margarita and breakfasts US$2.50-4.50, mains US$4.50-8; h7am-11pm)
T A B A S C O & C H I A PA S
Ed, maintain scrupulously clean rooms This efficient modern café serves fine or-
in the middle of the Panchán jungle. The ganic Chiapas coffee as well as breakfasts
rustic screened cabanas come with reading and light lunches.
lights and all accommodations have private Restaurant Las Tinajas (Cnr 20 de Noviembre & Aba-
bathrooms. solo; mains US$4-9; h7:30am-10pm) Gargantuan
Mayabell (%345-1464, 916-348-4271; www.maya portions and decent home-style cooking
bell.com.mx; Carretera Palenque-Ruinas Km 6; hammock make Las Tinajas a perennial travelers’ fa-
shelters or sites per person US$2.75, s cabana US$14-19, d vorite. The two branches either side of one
US$19-23, s/d with fan US$33/38, with air-con US$47/52; intersection have the same menu, but the
pas ) This spacious grassy camp- more westerly one is considerably airier.
ground is 400m from the site museum and Restaurant Maya (%345-0042; cnr Independencia
has a plethora of sleeping options and a & Hidalgo; mains US$5-9; h7am-11pm) This long-
large pool. The temazcal is US$7.50 per per- established place facing El Parque serves
son (up to eight people). up a good range of meat, fish and antojitos
La Aldea del Halach-Uinic (%345-1693; laaldea and satisfying breakfasts, under whirring
palenque.com; Carretera Palenque-Ruinas Km 2.7; cabana fans.
per person US$12, cabana with air-con US$75; pas) La Palapa (% information 345-0421; Carretera
Some 3km from town, this place has over 40 Palenque-Ruinas Km 5; h10am-3am) Reggae, psy-
palapa-roofed cabanas in spacious gardens. cho, salsa and electronica play at a large
The air-conditioned accommodations are palapa (thatched-roofed structure) with ta-
large and bright with their own bathrooms bles, chairs, dance space and even sofas.
www.lonelyplanet.com C H I A PA S • • B o n a m p a k & Ya x c h i l á n 249
back for US$5 per person, including wait- Gran Plaza. About halfway along the plaza,
ing time. For the last 7km to the ruins, you Stela 1, flanked by weathered sculptures of a
can rent bicycles for US$5 for three hours, crocodile and a jaguar, shows Pájaro Jaguar
or take a combi for US$7 round trip. IV in a ceremony that took place in AD
761. Edificio 20, from the time of Itzamnaaj
Yaxchilán B’alam III, was the last significant struc-
Jungle-shrouded Yaxchilán (admission US$3.75; ture built at Yaxchilán; its lintels are now
h8am-4:45pm, last entry 4:15pm) peaked in power in Mexico City.
and splendor between AD 681 and 800 An imposing stairway climbs to Edificio
under the rulers Itzamnaaj B’alam II (Shield 33, the best-preserved temple at Yaxchilán,
Jaguar II, 681–742), Pájaro Jaguar IV (Bird with about half of its roofcomb intact. The
Jaguar IV, 752–768) and Itzamnaaj B’alam final step in front of the building is carved
III (Shield Jaguar III, 769–800). The city was with ball-game scenes, and splendid relief
abandoned around AD 810. Inscriptions carvings embellish the undersides of the
here tell more about its ‘Jaguar’ dynasty lintels.
than is known of almost any other Maya At the site, refrescos are sold at a shack
ruling clan. The shield-and-jaguar symbol near the river landing. Most of the main
appears on many Yaxchilán buildings and monuments have information boards in
stelae; Pájaro Jaguar IV’s hieroglyph is a three languages including English.
small jungle cat with feathers on its back
and a bird superimposed on its head. SLEEPING & EATING
The main path to the ruins leads to the The Lacandón Maya village of Lacanjá
mazy passages of El Laberinto (Edificio 19), Chansayab is 6km from San Javier on the
built between AD 742 and 752, during the Carretera Fronteriza, and 12km from Bon-
interregnum between Itzamnaaj B’alam II ampak. Several families run campamento,
and Pájaro Jaguar IV. Beyond this compli- which provide rooms, camping and ham-
cated two-level building is the extensive mock space. The campamentos all offer
Maya, a 30,000-sq-km corridor of tropical rainforest stretching from Chiapas across northern
Guatemala into Belize and the southern Yucatán. But the Selva Lacandona is shrinking fast,
under pressure from ranchers, loggers, oil prospectors and settlers desperate for land. Most of
what’s left is in the Reserva de la Biósfera Montes Azules and the neighboring Reserva de la
Biósfera Lacantun.
The Montes Azules reserve itself has become something of a battleground between envi-
ronmental groups and settlers. According to Conservation International (CI), at least 10 new
communities have been established illegally inside the reserve since 2000. Some have since
been relocated. Many of these communities back the Zapatistas, whose supporters argue that
the settlers are using the forests in sustainable ways, and claim that CI seeks to exploit the
forests for the benefit of the Mexican biotechnology giant Grupo Pulsar.
Intimately intertwined with the Lacandón Jungle is the Río Usumacinta, the largest river between
Venezuela and the USA. It forms the Mexico–Guatemala border along the eastern fringe of the
Lacandón Jungle. Like the jungle around it, the river is an inestimable ecological and genetic
treasure. Lacantunia enigmatica, a species of catfish discovered in Usumacinta tributaries in 2005,
represents only the second new fish family revealed to science since 1938.
Government proposals resurface every few years to build a large hydroelectric dam on the
Usumacinta, sending environmentalists, archaeologists and others scurrying noisily to the bar-
ricades. To find out more about this vital river and the challenges it faces, visit the website of
goMaya (www.gomaya.com) or read Christopher Shaw’s marvelous Sacred Monkey River.
www.lonelyplanet.com C H I A PA S • • B o n a m p a k & Ya x c h i l á n 251
252
DIREC TORY
Directory
US$40), midrange (US$40 to $90) and top
CONTENTS end (above US$90).
Budget accommodations include camp-
Accommodations 252
ing grounds, hammocks, palm-thatched
Activities 254
cabanas, backpacker hostels, guesthouses
Business Hours 255
and economical hotels. Recommended ac-
Children 255
commodations will be without frills but
Climate Charts 255
generally clean. Hotel rooms, even in the
Courses 256
budget range, usually have a private bath-
Customs 256
room containing hot shower, WC and
Dangers & Annoyances 256
washbasin. (In this book rooms are as-
Disabled Travelers 257
sumed to have private bathroom unless
Discount Cards 258
otherwise stated.)
Embassies & Consulates 258
Midrange accommodations are chiefly
Festivals & Events 259
hotels. In some areas of Mexico US$35 can
Food 260
get you a cozy, attractively decorated room
Gay & Lesbian Travelers 260
in a friendly small hotel. Many of the coun-
Holidays 260
try’s most appealing and memorable lodg-
Insurance 261
ings are in the midrange bracket – small or
Internet Access 261
medium-sized hotels, well cared for, with a
Legal Matters 261
friendly atmosphere and personal attention
Maps 262
from staff. In some areas you’ll also find
Money 262
apartments, bungalows and more comfort-
Photography & Video 263
able cabanas in this price range.
Post 264
Top-end hotels run from classy interna-
Shopping 264
tional hotels in cities to deluxe coastal re-
Solo Travelers 265
sorts and luxurious smaller establishments
Telephone & Fax 265
catering to travelers with a taste for comfort
Time 267
and beautiful design, and the funds to pay
Toilets 267
for them.
Tourist Information 267
Room prices given in this book are high-
Visas 268
season prices unless otherwise stated. In
Women Travelers 269
the Yucatán, high season runs from Christ-
Work 269
mas right through to Easter, plus most of
July and August. Outside the peak seasons,
ACCOMMODATIONS many midrange and top-end establishments
Hurricane Wilma had a devastating effect in tourist destinations cut their room prices
on Cancún’s beachside hotel zone, although by 10% to 40%. They may also have special
the city center was largely unscathed. Other offers and low weekend rates. Budget ac-
hard-hit Caribbean coastal destinations in- commodations are more likely to keep the
cluded Isla Holbox, Puerto Morelos and, same rates all year.
to a lesser extent, Playa del Carmen. As of In this book we use ‘single’ (abbreviated
mid-2006, some hotels had reopened while ‘s’) to mean a room for one person, and
others were still rebuilding. ‘double’ (‘d’) to mean a room for two people.
Accommodations in Yucatán range from Mexicans sometimes use the phrase cuarto
hammocks and cabanas to hotels of every sencillo (literally, single room) to mean a
imaginable standard to world-class luxury room with one bed, which is often a cama
resorts. This book divides accommodations matrimonial (double bed). Sometimes one
into three price ranges: budget (where a person can occupy such a room for a lower
typical room for two people costs under price than two people. A cuarto doble often
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n s 253
DIREC TORY
PRACTICALITIES
Mexico’s only English-language daily is the Herald, an international edition of the Miami
Herald, with a Mexico insert. It’s available in some upmarket hotels in Mérida and Cancún and
at some Sanborns stores.
Mérida’s El Diario de Yucatán (www.yucatan.com.mx in Spanish) is one of the country’s most
respected newspapers.
Local TV is dominated by Televisa, which runs four of the six national channels; TV Azteca
has the other two. A growing number of viewers have multichannel cable or satellite systems
such as Cablevision or Sky TV.
Electrical current is 110V, 60Hz, and most plugs have two flat prongs, just like in the USA and
Canada.
Mexicans use the metric system for weights and measures.
DVDs are encoded for Zone 4, the same as for Australia and New Zealand, though most use
the NTSC image registration system, which makes them incompatible with the PAL system
used in most of Western Europe and Australia. Many DVDs sold in Mexico are illegal copies.
means a room with two beds, which may able and they can be good value for three
both be camas matrimoniales. or four people. Tourist offices and adver-
In popular destinations, at busy times it’s tisements in local newspapers (especially
best to reserve a room in advance, or seek English-language papers) are good sources
a room early in the day. Many places take of information.
reservations through their websites or by In Yucatán B&Bs are generally upmarket
email. If a place is not booked out, a simple guesthouses, often aimed at foreign tour-
phone call earlier in the day, saying what ists; they are usually comfortable and enjoy-
time you’ll arrive, is usually sufficient. A able places to stay.
few places are reluctant to take reservations,
but don’t worry: you should end up with a Camping & Trailer Parks
room somewhere. Most organized campgrounds are actually
Accommodations prices are subject to trailer parks set up for people with camper
two taxes: IVA (impuesto de valor agregado, vans and trailers (caravans) but are open to
or value-added tax; 15%) and ISH (Impuesto tent campers at lower rates. They’re most
sobre hospedaje, or lodging tax; 2% in most common along the coast. Some are very
states). Many budget and some midrange basic, others quite luxurious. Expect to pay
establishments only charge these taxes if about US$5 to pitch a tent for two, and
you require a receipt. Generally, though, US$10 to US$20 for two people with a ve-
IVA and ISH are included in quoted prices. hicle, using full facilities.
In top-end hotels a price may often be given Some restaurants and guesthouses in
as, say, ‘US$100 más impuestos’ (US$100 beach spots or country areas will let you
plus taxes), in which case you must add pitch a tent on their patch for a couple of
17% to the figure. When in doubt, you can dollars per person.
ask ‘¿Están incluidos los impuestos?’ (Are
taxes included?). Prices given in this book
are those you are most likely to be charged BOOK ACCOMMODATIONS ONLINE
at each place, around high season unless For more accommodations reviews and rec-
stated otherwise, with or without the taxes ommendations by Lonely Planet authors,
according to the establishment’s policy. check out the online booking service at
www.lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find the true,
Apartments & B&Bs insider lowdown on the best places to stay.
In some places you can find departamen- Reviews are thorough and independent.
tos (apartments) for tourists with fully Best of all, you can book online.
equipped kitchens. Some are very comfort-
© Lonely Planet Publications
254 D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s www.lonelyplanet.com
DIREC TORY
Casas de Huéspedes & Posadas often air-con for US$40 to US$90. Often
Inexpensive and congenial accommoda- the hotel also has a restaurant and bar.
tions are often to be found at a casa de Among the most charming lodgings, in
huéspedes, a home converted into simple both the midrange and top-end brackets,
guest lodgings. Good casas de huéspedes are are the many old mansions, inns and even
usually family-run, with a relaxed, friendly convents, turned into hotels. These can be
atmosphere. wonderfully atmospheric, with fountains
Many posadas (inns) are like casas de gurgling in flower-bedecked stone court-
huéspedes; others are small hotels. yards. Some are a bit spartan; others have
modern comforts and, consequently, are
Hammocks & Cabanas more expensive.
You’ll find hammocks and cabanas available Nearly every town has its cheap hotels,
mainly in low-key beach spots such as Tulum. though substantially fewer are found on the
A hammock can be a very comfortable place Yucatán Peninsula than in other regions of
to sleep in hot areas (but mosquito repellent Mexico. There are clean, friendly, secure
often comes in handy). You can rent a ham- ones, and there are dark, dirty, smelly ones
mock and a place to hang it – usually under where you may not feel your belongings are
a palm roof outside a small guesthouse or safe. Expect to pay up to US$35 for a decent
beach restaurant – for US$6 to US$12. With double room with private shower and hot
your own hammock, the cost comes down water, more in Cancún, Cozumel or Playa
a bit. It’s easy enough to buy hammocks in del Carmen, and perhaps if you arrive dur-
the Yucatán (see p168); Mérida specializes in ing a popular time.
them, and you’ll find hammocks for sale all Yucatán has plenty of large, modern lux-
along the Maya Riviera. ury hotels, too, particularly in the coastal
Cabanas are usually huts – of wood, brick, resorts and in some former haciendas south
adobe and stone – with a palm-thatched of Mérida. They offer the expected levels of
roof. Some have dirt floors and nothing luxury – with pools, gyms, bars, restaurants
inside but a bed; others are deluxe, with and so on – at prices that are sometimes
electric light, mosquito nets, fans, fridge, agreeably modest (and sometimes not!). If
bar and décor. Prices for simple cabanas you like to stay in luxury but also enjoy sav-
range from US$10 to US$35. On the Car- ing some money, look for a locally owned
ibbean some luxury cabanas can cost over hotel.
US$100. Fortunately for families and small
groups of travelers, many hotels in all price
Hostels ranges have rooms for three, four or five
Hostels exist in many of the towns and cit- people that cost not much more than a
ies where backpackers congregate. They double.
provide dorm accommodations, (for US$5
to US$12 per person), plus communal ACTIVITIES
kitchens, bathrooms, living space and There’s absolutely no shortage of things
sometimes some private rooms. Standards to do on the Yucatán Peninsula: some of
of hygiene and security vary, but aside from the best scuba diving and snorkeling in the
being cheap, hostels are generally relaxed, world is available here, beach lovers will
and good places to meet other travelers. find plenty of powdery white sand on which
HostelWorld (www.hostelworld.com) has listings. to sunbathe and the ancient Maya cities that
A dozen hostels are members of Mexico’s dot the landscape of the Yucatán are a thrill
HI affiliate, Hostelling International Mexico to explore.
(www.hostellingmexico.com). If you are a HI mem- Good sources on active tourism in Mex-
ber, you get a dollar or two off the nightly ico include Amtave (Mexican Association of Adventure
rates at these places. Travel & Ecotourism; % 55-5688-3883, 800-654-4452;
www.amtave.org), based in Mexico City with
Hotels 60 member organizations and companies
Mexico specializes in good midrange ho- around the country, and the websites www
tels where two people can get a comfort- .gorp.com, www.planeta.com and www
able room with private bathroom, TV and .mexonline.com.
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • B u s i n e s s H o u r s 255
DIREC TORY
For more details on the major activities, ally every café and restaurant. In this book
check the cross-references below and also you’ll find especially child-friendly places
the destination chapters of this book. identified with the cicon.
bird- and wildlife-watching (see p56) Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children
cycling (p56) has lots of practical advice on the subject,
diving and snorkeling (p52) drawn from firsthand experience.
fishing (p57) For details on documents required for
hiking (p55) under-18 travelers, see p269.
kayaking (p54)
kiteboarding and windsurfing (p55) Practicalities
ziplining (p57) Cots for hotel rooms and high chairs for
restaurants are available mainly in mid-
BUSINESS HOURS range and top-end establishments. If you
The siesta tradition wisely lives on in this want a rental car with a child safety seat,
hot climate, with shops generally open from the major international rental firms are the
9am to 2pm, then reopening from 4pm to most reliable providers. You will probably
7pm Monday to Saturday. Some may not have to pay a few dollars extra per day.
be open on Saturday afternoon. Shops in It’s usually not hard to find an inexpen-
malls and coastal resort towns often open sive baby-sitter – ask at your hotel. Diapers
on Sunday. Supermarkets and department (nappies) are widely available, but if you
stores usually open from 9am or 10am to depend on some particular cream, lotion,
10pm daily. baby food or medicine, bring it with you.
Government offices have similar Mon- Public breast-feeding is not common and,
day to Friday hours to shops, with a greater when done, is done discreetly.
likelihood of having the 2pm to 4pm lunch
break. Tourism-related offices usually Sights & Activities
open on Saturday, too, from at least 9am Apart from the obvious beaches and swim-
to 1pm. ming pools, you’ll find excellent special at-
Banks are normally open 9am to 5pm tractions such as amusement parks, water
Monday to Friday, and some from 9am parks, zoos, aquariums and other fun places
to 1pm Saturday. In smaller towns they on the peninsula.
may close earlier or not open on Saturday. Kids can also enjoy activities such as
Casas de cambio (money-exchange offices) snorkeling, riding bicycles and boats, and
are usually open from 9am to 7pm daily, watching wildlife (see from p52). Many kids
often with even longer hours in coastal re- will stay happy for under US$1 an hour
sorts. Post offices typically open from 8am at Mexico’s myriad Internet cafés, and ar-
to 6pm Monday to Friday, and 9am to 1pm chaeological sites can be fun if they’re into
Saturday. climbing pyramids and exploring tunnels
In this book we only spell out opening (but some kids aren’t).
hours where they do not fit the above pa-
rameters. See inside the front cover for fur- CLIMATE CHARTS
ther typical opening hours. Hot, sunny and humid days are the norm
Most museums have one closing day a for much of the year in the Yucatán, al-
week, typically Monday. On Sunday, nearly though the season of nortes (storms bring-
all archaeological sites and museums are ing wind and rain from the north) lowers
free for Mexican nationals, and the major temperatures a bit from November through
ones can get very crowded. February or March. During the rainy sea-
son, which runs from May through Octo-
CHILDREN ber, you can expect heavy rains for an hour
Snorkeling in caves, playing on the beach, or two most afternoons, but generally clear
hiking in the jungle…kids will find plenty weather otherwise. The hurricane season
of ways to keep busy in the Yucatán. And lasts from June to November, with most
as elsewhere in Mexico, children take center of the activity from mid-August to mid-
stage – with few exceptions, children are September. For tips on the best seasons to
welcome at all kinds of hotels and in virtu- travel, see p17.
© Lonely Planet Publications
256 D I R E C T O R Y • • C o u r s e s www.lonelyplanet.com
DIREC TORY
100
CUSTOMS
10 50 25 4
Visitors are allowed to bring into Mexico
0 32 0 0 0 duty-free items for personal use such as
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
clothing; a camera and video camera; up
to 12 rolls of film or videotapes; a cellu-
SAN CRISTÓBAL Average lar phone; a laptop computer; a portable
DE LAS CASAS 2276m (7462ft) Max/Min
radio or CD player; medicine for personal
°C °F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm
40 104 100 16 400 use, with prescription in the case of psy-
30 86 75 12 300
chotropic drugs; 3L of wine, beer or liquor
(adults only); 400 cigarettes (adults); and
20 68 50 8 200 US$300 worth of other goods (US$50 if ar-
riving by land).
10 50 25 4 100
The normal routine when you enter
0 32 0 0 0 Mexico is to complete a customs decla-
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
ration form (which lists duty-free allow-
ances), and then place it in a machine. If
COURSES the machine shows a green light, you pass
Taking classes can be a great way to meet without inspection. If a red light shows,
people and get an inside angle on local your baggage will be searched.
life as well as study the language or cul-
ture. Mexican universities and colleges DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
often offer tuition. For long-term study in Despite often alarming media reports and
Mexico you’ll need a student visa; contact official warnings for Mexico in general,
a Mexican consulate for details. A good the Yucatán Peninsula remains a safe place
US source on study possibilities in Mexico to travel, and with just a few precautions
is the Council on International Educational Ex- you can minimize the risk of encountering
change (www.ciee.org). There are also helpful problems.
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • D i s a b l e d T r a v e l e r s 257
DIREC TORY
Enjoy yourself in the ocean, but beware
of undertows and riptides on any beach. HIGHWAY ROBBERY
Lone women, and even pairs of women, Though it’s rare on the Yucatán Peninsula,
should be cautious about going to remote bandits occasionally hold up buses and
beach spots. other vehicles on intercity routes, especially
Foreign affairs departments can sup- at night, taking luggage or valuables. Some-
ply a variety of useful data about travel to times buses are robbed by people who
Mexico: board as passengers. Roads linking the
Australia (%1300-139-281; www.dfat.gov.au) peninsula with Chiapas state, particularly
Canada (%800-267-6788; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca) Hwy 199 between Palenque and Ocosingo,
UK (%0845-850-2829; www.fco.gov.uk) are sometimes the scene of such robberies.
USA (%888-407-4747; www.travel.state.gov) These routes are also notorious for frequent
thefts from luggage on 2nd-class buses,
Theft & Robbery whose many stops and sometimes-crowded
As a rule, Mexicans are extremely honest conditions (and sleepy passengers) afford
and are unlikely to steal anything from miscreants the opportunity to unzip or
you. However, the rare individual may tar- slash open bags.
get tourists likely to be carrying cash or The best way to avoid highway rob-
valuables. Thus, pocket-picking and bag- bery is to travel by day, preferably by toll
snatching remain minor risks in crowded highway. Deluxe and 1st-class buses use
buses and bus stations, airports, markets toll highways, where they exist; 2nd-class
or anywhere frequented by large numbers buses do not.
of tourists.
Mugging is less common than purse-
snatching, but more serious: resistance may Don’t keep money, credit or debit cards,
be met with violence (do not resist). Usually wallets or bags in open view any longer
these robbers will not harm you: they just than you have to. At ticket counters, keep
want your money, fast. a hand or foot on your bag at all times.
To minimize the chances of being a vic- Use ATMs only during working hours
tim, adhere to the following: and choose ones in secure locations, not
Don’t go where there are few other peo- those open to the street.
ple; this includes camping in secluded Do not leave anything valuable-looking
places. in a parked vehicle.
Don’t leave any valuables unattended Be careful about accepting drinks from
while you swim. Run-and-grab thefts overly social characters in bars, especially
by people lurking in the woods are a in tourist-heavy zones; there have been
common occurrence on the Caribbean cases of drugging followed by robbery
coast. and assault.
Leave most of your money, important Be wary of attempts at credit card fraud.
documents and smaller valuables in a One method is when the cashier swipes
sealed, signed envelope in your hotel’s your card twice (once for the transaction
safe, unless you have immediate need of and once for nefarious purposes). Keep
these items. Virtually all hotels, except your card in sight at all times.
the very cheapest, provide safekeeping
for guests’ valuables. DISABLED TRAVELERS
Leave valuables in a locked suitcase or Lodgings on the Yucatán Peninsula are gen-
backpack in your hotel room, or a locker erally not disabled-friendly, though some
in a hostel dorm, rather than carry them hotels and restaurants (mostly towards the
on the street. top end of the market) and some public
Carry only a small amount of money – buildings now provide wheelchair access.
enough for an outing – in a pocket. If The absence of institutionalized facilities
you have to carry valuables, keep them is largely compensated for, however, by
hidden – preferably in a money belt, Mexicans’ accommodating attitudes toward
shoulder wallet or pouch underneath others, and special arrangements are gladly
your clothing. improvised.
© Lonely Planet Publications
258 D I R E C T O R Y • • D i s c o u n t C a r d s www.lonelyplanet.com
DIREC TORY
Mobility is easiest in the major tourist /representaciones. Some embassy and con-
resorts and the more expensive hotels. Bus sulate websites are very useful sources of
transportation can be difficult; flying or information on visas and similar matters.
taking a taxi is easier. Australia (%02-6273-3963; www.mexico.org.au;
Mobility International USA (in the USA %541- 14 Perth Ave, Yarralumla, Canberra, ACT 2600)
343-1284; www.miusa.org) advises disabled travel- Belize (%223-01-93; www.sre.gob.mx/belice; Ring Rd
ers on mobility issues. Its website includes No 3, Belmopan)
international databases of exchange pro- Canada Ottawa (%613-233-8988; www.embamexcan
grams and disability organizations with .com; 45 O’Connor St, Suite 1000, ON K1P 1A4); Montreal
several Mexican organizations listed. (%514-288-2502; www.consulmex.qc.ca; 2055 rue Peel,
In the UK, Radar (%020-7250-3222; www.radar bureau 1000, QC H3A 1V4); Toronto (%416-368-2875;
.org.uk) is run by and for disabled people. Its www.consulmex.com; 199 Bay St, Suite 4440 Commerce
excellent website has links to good travel- Court West, ON M5L 1E9); Vancouver (%604-684-3547;
specific sites. www.consulmexvan.com; 710-1177 West Hastings St,
Two further sources for disabled travel- BC V6E 2K3)
ers are MossRehab ResourceNet (www.mossre France (%01-53-70-27-70; www.sre.gob.mx/francia;
sourcenet.org) and Access-able Travel Source (www 9 rue de Longchamp, Paris, 75116)
.access-able.com). Germany Berlin (%030-269-323; www.embamex.de;
Klingelhöferstrasse 3, 10785); Frankfurt-am-Main (%069-
DISCOUNT CARDS 299-8750; www.consulmexfrankfurt.org; Taunusanlage
The ISIC student card, the IYTC card for 21, 60325)
travelers under 26, and ITIC card for teach- Guatemala Guatemala City (%2420-3400; www.sre.gob
ers can help you obtain reduced-price air .mx/guatemala; 2a Av 7-57, Zona 10); Ciudad Tecún Umán
tickets to or from Mexico at student- and (%7776-8181; [email protected]; 3A Av 4-74, Zona
youth-oriented travel agencies. Reduced 1); Quetzaltenango (%7767-5542; [email protected]
prices for buses, museums, archaeological .mx; 21A Av 8-64, Zona 3)
sites and so on are usually only for those Ireland (%01-260-0699; www.sre.gob.mx/irlanda;
with Mexican education credentials, but 43 Ailesbury Rd, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4)
the aforementioned cards will sometimes Italy (%06-44-1151; www.sre.gob.mx/italia;
get you a reduction. The ISIC card may Via Lazzaro Spallanzani 16, Rome, 00161)
also get you discounts in a few hostel-type Japan (%3-3580-1131; www.sre.gob.mx/japon;
accommodations. 2-15-1 Nagata-Cho, Chiyoda-Ku, Tokyo, 100-0014)
The Hostelling International (HI) card Netherlands (%070-360-2900; www.embamex-nl
will save you about US$1 in affiliated hos- .com; Nassauplein 28, The Hague, 2585EC)
tels in the Yucatán. New Zealand (%04-472-0555; www.mexico.org.nz;
Level 8, 111 Customhouse Quay, Wellington)
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Spain Madrid (%91-369-2814; www.embamex.es;
It’s important to understand what your Carrera de San Jerónimo 46, 28014); Barcelona (%93-
own embassy – the embassy of the coun- 201-1822; www.sre.gob.mx/barcelona; Paseo de la
try of which you are a citizen – can and Bonanova 55, 08017)
can’t do to help you if you get into trouble. UK (%020-7235-6393; www.embamex.co.uk; 8 Halkin
Generally speaking, it won’t be much help St, London, SW1X 7DW)
in emergencies if the trouble you’re in is USA (%202-728-1600; www.embassyofmexico.org;
remotely your own fault. Remember that 1911 Pennsylvania Ave, Washington, DC, NW 20006) Also
you are bound by the laws of the country provides a list of consular services in many other US cities.
you are in.
In genuine emergencies you might get Embassies & Consulates in Mexico
some assistance, such as a list of law- Many embassies or their consular sections
yers, but only if other channels have been are in Mexico City; Cancún is home to sev-
exhausted. eral consulates, and there are some diplo-
matic outposts in Mérida as well.
Mexican Embassies & Consulates Australia (%55-1101-2200; www.mexico.embassy.gov
Unless otherwise noted, details are for em- .au; Rubén Darío 55, Polanco, Mexico City)
bassies or their consular sections. Updated Belize Mexico City (%55-5520-1274; embelize@prodigy
details can be found at www.sre.gob.mx .net.mx; Bernardo de Gálvez 215, Lomas de Chapultepec);
© Lonely Planet Publications
DIREC TORY
Cancún (%998-887-8417; Av Náder 34, 1st fl); Chetumal FESTIVALS & EVENTS
(%983-832-1803; Av Armada de México 91, Colonia Mexico’s frequent fiestas are highly color-
Campestre) ful affairs that often go on for several days
Canada Mexico City (%55-5724-7900; www.canada and add a great deal of spice to everyday
.org.mx; Schiller 529, Polanco); Cancún (%998-883-3360; life. In addition to the major national festi-
Plaza Caracol II, 3rd fl, Local 330, Blvd Kukulcán Km 8.5, vals listed below, each town has many local
Zona Hotelera) saint’s days, regional festivals and so on (see
Cuba Mexico City (%55-5280-5591; www.embacuba destination chapters for information on
.com.mx; Av Presidente Masaryk 554, Polanco); Cancún these). There’s also a national public holiday
(%998-884-3423; Pecari 17); Mérida (%999-944-4215; just about every month (see p260), often the
Calle 1-D No 32, Colonia Campestre) occasion for yet further merriment.
France embassy in Mexico City (%55-9171-9700; www
.francia.org.mx; Campos Elíseos 339, Polanco); consulate in January
Mexico City (%55-9171-9840; Lafontaine 32, Polanco); Día de los Reyes Magos (Three Kings’ Day or Epiphany;
Cancún (%998-267-9722; Fonatur lote 1-1a, MZ 12 SM January 6) This is the day when Mexican children tradition-
50, Fraccionamiento Los Alamos II); Mérida (%999-925- ally receive gifts, rather than at Christmas (but some get
2886; Calle 33B No 528) two loads of presents!) A good place to be at this time is
Germany Mexico City (%55-5283-2200; www.mexiko Tizimín (p203).
.diplo.de; Lord Byron 737, Polanco); Cancún (%998-884-
1898; Punta Conoco 36, SM24) February/March
Guatemala Mexico City (%55-5540-7520; Día de la Candelaría (Candlemas; February 2) Com-
[email protected]; Av Explanada 1025, Lomas memorates the presentation of Jesus in the temple 40 days
de Chapultepec); Cancún (%998-883-8296; Edificio Barce- after his birth; celebrated with processions, bullfights and
lona, Av Náder 148) dancing in many towns.
Ireland (%55-5520-5803; [email protected]; Carnaval (late February or early March) A big bash
Cerrada Blvd Ávila Camacho 76, 3rd fl, Lomas de Chapulte- preceding the 40-day penance of Lent, Carnaval takes place
pec, Mexico City) during the week or so before Ash Wednesday (which falls
Italy Mexico City (%55-5596-3655; www.embitalia 46 days before Easter Sunday). It’s festively celebrated in
.org.mx; Paseo de las Palmas 1994, Lomas de Mérida, Campeche, Ciudad del Carmen and Chetumal with
Chapultepec); Cancún (%998-884-1261; Alcatraces 39, parades, music, food, drink, dancing, fireworks and fun.
SM22)
Japan (%55-5211-0028; www.mx.emb-japan.go.jp; March/April
Paseo de la Reforma 395, Lomas de Chapultepec, Semana Santa (Holy/Easter Week; starts on Palm
Mexico City) Sunday – Domingo de Ramos) Throughout the week,
Netherlands Mexico City (%55-5258-9921; solemn processions move through the streets. On Good
www.paisesbajos.com.mx; Av Vasco de Quiroga 3000, Friday (Viernes Santo) there are dramatic re-enactments
7th fl, Santa Fe); Cancún (%998-886-0074; Martinair, of the Passion Play, with locals taking the role of penitents
Planta Alta, Terminal 2, Aeropuerto Cancún); Mérida following their savior through the Stations of the Cross.
(%999-924-3122; Calle 64 No 418)
New Zealand (%55-5283-9460; kiwimexico@ September
compuserve.com.mx; Balmes 8, Level 4, Día de la Independencia (Independence Day; Sep-
Los Morales, Mexico City) tember 16) The anniversary of the start of Mexico’s War
Spain Mexico City (%55-5280-4383; www.mae.es of Independence in 1810 provokes an upsurge of patriotic
/embajadas/mexico/es/home; Galileo 114, Polanco); feeling every year: on the evening of the15th, the words of
Cancún (%998-848-9918; Edificio Oásis, cnr Blvd Padre Miguel Hidalgo’s famous call to rebellion, the Grito
Kukulcán & Cenzontle, Zona Hotelera) de Dolores, are repeated from the balcony of every town
UK Mexico City (%55-5242-8500; www.embajada hall in the land, usually followed by fireworks.
britanica.com.mx; Río Lerma 71, Colonia Cuauhtémoc);
Cancún (%998-881-0100; The Royal Sands, Blvd Kukulcán November
Km 13.5, Zona Hotelera) Día de Todos los Santos (All Saints’ Day; November 1)
USA Mexico City (%55-5080-2000; mexico.usembassy & Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead; November 2) In
.gov; Paseo de la Reforma 305); Cancún (%998-883-0272; Mexico’s most characteristic fiesta, the souls of the dead
2o Nivel No 320-323, Plaza Caracol Dos, Blvd Kukulcán, are believed to return to earth. Families build altars in their
Zona Hotelera); Mérida (%999-925-5011; Paseo de homes and visit graveyards to commune with their dead,
Montejo 453) taking garlands and gifts. A happy atmosphere prevails.
© Lonely Planet Publications
260 D I R E C T O R Y • • F o o d www.lonelyplanet.com
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LOCAL FIESTAS
In addition to national celebrations, every town and city on the Yucatán Peninsula holds its
own fiestas, often in honor of its patron saint. Street parades of holy images, special costumes,
fireworks, dancing, lots of music and plenty of drinking are all part of the colorful scene. Some-
times bloodless bullfights are on the program as well, or the Danza de la Cabeza de Cochino.
This dance, rooted in Maya tradition, takes place around an altar holding a pig’s head decorated
with offerings of flowers, ribbons, bread, liquor and cigarettes. A likely time to catch it is at the
Fiesta de la Inmaculada Concepción. Though Yucatecans also celebrate the Festival of the Im-
maculate Conception on December 8, with the rest of the Catholic world, many towns on the
peninsula hold nine days of devotions leading up to the last Sunday in January when the pig is
ritually slaughtered and put to cooking.
Other lively patron saint festivals and Yucatán-specific celebrations are mentioned in the des-
tination chapters. Some Maya festivals are also described on p11.
www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • I n s u r a n c e 261
DIREC TORY
Día de la Independencia (Independence Day) computers in the lobby, for which you may
September 16 or may not have to pay, to well-equipped
Día de la Raza (Columbus’ discovery of the New World) business centers or wi-fi access (Internet
October 12 inalámbrico).
Día de la Revolución (Revolution Day) November 20 You may also be able to connect your
Día de Navidad (Christmas Day) December 25 own laptop or hand-held to the Internet
through the telephone socket in your room.
At Easter, businesses usually close from Be aware that your modem may not work
Good Friday (Viernes Santo) to Easter once you leave your home country. The
Sunday (Domingo de Resurrección). Many safest option is to buy a reputable ‘global’
offices and businesses close during major modem before you leave home. For lots of
national festivals (see p259). useful stuff on connecting to the Internet
while traveling, visit www.kropla.com.
INSURANCE
A travel insurance policy to cover theft, loss LEGAL MATTERS
and medical problems is a good idea. Some Mexican Law
policies specifically exclude dangerous ac- Mexican law presumes an accused person is
tivities such as scuba diving, motorcycling guilty until proven innocent.
and even trekking. The minimum jail sentence for posses-
For further information on medical sion of more than a token amount of any
insurance, see p281. Worldwide cover to narcotic, including marijuana and am-
travelers from over 44 countries is avail- phetamines, is 10 months. See the boxed
able online at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel text, p99 for details on recent changes to
_services. Mexico’s drug laws. As in most other coun-
For information on motor insurance see tries, the purchase of controlled medication
p274. requires a doctor’s prescription.
Road travelers should expect occasional
INTERNET ACCESS police or military checkpoints. They are
Cybercafés (which charge about US$1.50 normally looking for drugs, weapons or il-
to US$2 per hour) and Web-based email legal migrants.
are common in the Yucatán. A number See p274 for information on the legal
of cybercafés are equipped with CD burn- aspects of road accidents.
ers, webcams, headphones and so on. Few While the age of marriage is 12, sex with
have card readers, so bring your own or the someone under 18 is illegal if their consent
camera-to-USB cable if you plan on burn- was obtained by deception, such as a false
ing photos to CD along the way. promise of marriage.
Quite a few accommodations provide In- Useful warnings on Mexican law are
ternet access of some kind (shown as iin found on the US Department of State website
this book). Facilities vary from a couple of (www.travel.state.gov).
262 D I R E C T O R Y • • M a p s www.lonelyplanet.com
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DIREC TORY
Banks & Casas de Cambio Tipping & Bargaining
You can exchange money in banks or at In general, employees of small, cheap restau-
casas de cambio, which are often single- rants don’t expect much in the way of tips
window kiosks. Banks go through a more while those in resorts frequented by foreign-
time-consuming procedure than casas de ers (such as in Cancún and Cozumel) expect
cambio and usually have shorter hours. you to be lavish in your largesse. At the lat-
Casas de cambio can easily be found in just ter, tipping is up to US levels of 15% or 20%;
about every large or medium-size town elsewhere 10% is usually plenty. If you stay
and in many smaller ones. They’re quick a few days in one place, you should leave up
and often open evenings or weekends, but to 10% of your room costs for the people
be aware that some don’t accept traveler’s who have kept your room clean (assuming
checks. they have). A porter in a midrange hotel
Currency-exchange rates vary from would be happy with US$1 per bag. Car
one bank or casa de cambio to another; parking attendants expect a tip of US$0.20
and there is often a better rate offered for to US$0.50, and the same is standard for gas
efectivo (cash) than for traveler’s checks. station attendants. Baggers in supermarkets
After hours or on weekends, hotels may are usually tipped a peso or two.
exchange currency, though their rates tend Room rates are pretty inflexible, though
to be unfavorable. it can be worth asking if any discounts are
available, especially if it’s low season or you
International Transfers are going to stay a few nights. In markets
Should you need money wired to you in bargaining is the rule. You can also some-
Mexico, an easy and quick method is the times bargain with drivers of unmetered
‘Dinero en Minutos’ (Money in Minutes) taxis.
service of Western Union (in the USA %800-325-
6000; www.westernunion.com). The service is of- PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO
fered by thousands of bank branches and Film & Equipment
other businesses around Mexico, identi- Camera and film-processing shops, phar-
fied by black-and-yellow signs proclaim- macies and hotels sell film. Most types of
ing ‘Western Union Dinero en Minutos.’ film are available in larger cities and resorts,
Your sender pays the money online or at though slide film tends to be rarer outside
a Western Union branch, along with a fee, Cancún (where several varieties of Fuji slide
and gives the details on who is to receive film are sold downtown at decent prices),
it and where. When you pick it up, take and usually limited to Agfachrome and Ko-
along photo identification. Sending US$500 dak’s Ektachrome.
online from California to Mexico, for ex- Film on sale at low prices may be out-
ample, costs US$14.99. Western Union has dated. If the date on the box is obscured by
offices worldwide. a price sticker, look under the sticker. Avoid
US post offices (%888-368-4669; www.usps.com) film from sun-exposed shop windows. Print
offer reasonably cheap money transfers to processing (revelando) costs under US$0.20
branches of Bancomer bank in Mexico. The per photo; it’s almost always done in one
service is called Dinero Seguro. hour and quality is usually good.
Most cybercafés can burn your images
Taxes onto a CD for US$2 or so.
Mexico’s value-added tax (IVA) is levied Video cameras and tapes are widely avail-
at 15%. By law the tax must be included able at photo supply stores in the largest cit-
in prices quoted to you and should not be ies and in towns that receive many tourists.
added afterward. Signs in shops and no- Prices are significantly higher than you may
tices on restaurant menus often state ‘IVA be used to in North America or Europe.
incluido.’ Occasionally they state instead Videotapes on sale in Mexico (like the rest
that IVA must be added to the quoted of the Americas and Japan) nearly all use
prices. the NTSC image registration system. This is
Hotel rooms are also subject to the lodg- incompatible with the PAL system common
ing tax (ISH). Each Mexican state sets its to most of Western Europe and Australia,
own rate, but in most it’s 2%. and the Secam system used in France.
© Lonely Planet Publications
264 D I R E C T O R Y • • P o s t www.lonelyplanet.com
DIREC TORY
If your camera breaks down, you’ll be You can receive letters and packages care
able to find a repair shop in most sizable of a post office if they’re addressed to the
towns, and prices will be agreeably low. post office’s lista de correos (mail list), as
For more information on taking travel follows:
photographs, check out Lonely Planet’s Kate REID (last name in capitals and
Travel Photography. underlined)
Lista de Correos
Photographing People & Places Cozumel
It is illegal to take pictures in Mexican Quintana Roo 77609 (post code)
airports and of police stations and penal MEXICO
institutions. Use of a tripod at most ruins
sites requires a special (expensive) permit When the letter reaches the post office, the
obtainable only in Mexico City. name of the addressee is placed on an al-
Be forewarned that a fee for use of phabetical list, which is updated daily and
video cameras is charged at many ruins often pinned up on the wall. To claim your
and other attractions. At most Maya sites mail, present your passport or other iden-
charging an entry fee, you need to pay an tification. There’s no charge, but many post
extra US$3 at the first site visited, which offices only hold lista mail for 10 days be-
gives you a slip you can use all day, at any fore returning it to the sender. If you think
site you visit. you’re going to pick mail up more than 10
In general, Yucatecans enjoy having their days after it has arrived, have it sent to Poste
pictures taken and will be happy to pose for Restante, instead of Lista de Correos. Poste
your camera – if you ask. Increasingly, you restante may hold mail for up to a month,
may be asked to pay for the photo. This though no list of what has been received is
is especially true in areas that see heavy posted up.
tourist traffic. If you’re sending a package internation-
If local people make any sign of being of- ally from Mexico, be prepared to open it for
fended by your desire to photograph them, customs inspection; take packing materials
you should put your camera away and apol- with you to the post office and don’t seal it
ogize immediately, both out of decency and till you get there.
for your own safety. This is especially so in For assured and speedy delivery, you can
Chiapas state (see p245). Also, many police use one of the more expensive international
officers and soldiers do not like having their courier services, such as UPS (%800-902-9200;
pictures taken. www.ups.com), FedEx (% 800-900-1100; www.fedex
.com) or Mexico’s Estafeta (%800-903-3500; www
POST .estafeta.com). Packages up to 500g cost about
An airmail letter or postcard weighing US$30 to the USA or Canada, and US$40
up to 20g costs US$1 to send to the USA to Europe.
or Canada, US$1.25 to Europe or South
America, and US$1.40 to the rest of the SHOPPING
world. Items weighing between 20g and Yucatán travelers will find plenty of won-
50g cost US$1.75, US$2 and US$2.25, re- derful regional handicrafts made predomi-
spectively. Certificado (registered) service nantly by indigenous people, including
costs an extra US$2. Mark airmail items hats, hammocks, embroidered clothing and
‘Vía Aérea.’ textiles, jewelry and ceramic items. You can
Delivery times are elastic (inbound and buy these artesanías in the villages where
outbound). An airmail letter from Mex- they are produced, or in stores and markets
ico to the USA or Canada (or vice-versa) in larger cities. Artesanías stores in cities
should take between four and 14 days. Mail will give you a good overview of what’s
to or from Europe may take between one available and a basis for price comparisons.
and three weeks, to Australasia two to three Traveling out to craft-making villages gives
weeks. you a chance to see artisans at work, and
Post offices (oficinas de correos) are typi- if you buy there you’ll know that more of
cally open from 8am to 6pm Monday to your money is likely to go to the artisans
Friday, and 9am to 1pm Saturday. themselves and less to entrepreneurs.
© Lonely Planet Publications
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DIREC TORY
Prices for handicrafts sold in shops are Also widely available in the region are
generally non-negotiable, while in markets handmade blankets, leather goods, decora-
bargaining is the rule. tive cloth, wicker baskets, brilliantly painted
Refunds of the 15% IVA tax on some gourds and lots of amber jewelry. Filigreed
purchases were due to be available from silver baubles are often a good buy in the
July 2006 for tourists who arrived in Mexico Yucatán as well.
by plane or cruise ship. Under the scheme, Edible and drinkable products worth
goods worth at least M$1200 (approxi- taking back with you include honey, a sub-
mately US$110) from any one store would stance that has been produced by Maya bee-
qualify for the refund, on presentation of keepers for centuries, and a special kind of
receipts with the shop’s tax number (Regis- tequila made from the henequen plant that
tro Federal de Causantes) when the tourist is produced near Izamal.
leaves Mexico.
SOLO TRAVELERS
Guayaberas A single room normally costs a little less
Guayaberas – light, elegant shirts with than a double room, but budget travelers
four square pockets that are standard busi- can cut accommodation costs by staying
nesswear for men in southeast Mexico – in Mexico’s increasing number of hostels.
originally hail from Yucatán. The best Hostels have the additional advantage of
guayaberas can be purchased in Mérida; providing ready-made company, and often
see p167 for details. a lot of fun and helpful travel tips. It’s often
easy to pair up with others at a hostel as
Hammocks there’s a steady stream of people follow-
Yucatecan hammocks are renowned for ing much similar routes. In well-touristed
their quality and durability. There are places, notice boards advertise for traveling
many hammock stores in Mérida, or bar- companions, flatmates, volunteer workers
gain with sellers ready to do so in the plazas and so on.
and along the beach, particularly along the Solo travelers should be especially watch-
Riviera Maya and Isla Holbox, where many ful of their luggage when on the road and
residents weave and sell them. See p168 for should stay in places with good security for
more on hammocks. their valuables. One big drag of traveling
alone can be when you want to take a quick
Hats dip in the ocean – you’re stuck with your
Attractive and comfortable panama hats, possessions and there’s no-one to watch out
called jipijapas, are woven from locally for them.
grown palm fibers in Bécal (see p222) in Traveling alone, though, can be a very
Campeche state. For more about the hats, good way of getting into the local culture
see p222. and it definitely improves your Spanish
skills as Mexicans are very sociable. Sin-
Huipiles gle women can also check out the advice,
Proudly sported by Yucatecan women across p269.
the social spectrum, the huipil is an instantly
recognizable white dress with brightly TELEPHONE & FAX
colored flower embroidery around the yoke Local calls are cheap; international calls can
and near the bottom of the dress. For more be expensive, but needn’t be if you call from
information about huipiles, see p41. the right place at the right time. Mexico is
well provided with fairly easy-to-use pub-
Pottery & Other Items lic card phones. Locutorios and casetas de
Earthenware pots of varying quality can be teléfono (call offices where an on-the-spot
found across the peninsula. Among the most operator connects the call for you) are quite
interesting are those crafted in Ticul, in Yu- widespread and can be cheaper than card
catán state, where pottery-making predates phones. A third option is to call from your
the Spanish Conquest by hundreds of years. hotel, but hotels charge what they like for
Ticul is equally noted for its fine reproduc- this service. It’s nearly always cheaper to
tions of archaeological pieces. go elsewhere.
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • Ti m e 267
DIREC TORY
by the country code, area code and local For a Mexican domestic operator, dial
number. For example, to call New York %020; for an international operator, dial
City, dial %00, then the US country code %090. For Mexican directory information,
%1, the New York City area code %212, dial %040.
then the local number. To access the Mexican yellow pages on-
To call a number in Mexico from another line, go to www.seccionamarilla.com.mx.
country, dial your international access code,
then the Mexico country code %52, then TIME
the area code and number. The entire Yucatán Peninsula observes the
Hora del Centro, which is the same as US
Public Card Phones Central Time – GMT minus six hours in
These are common in towns and cities: winter, and GMT minus five hours during
you’ll usually find some at airports, bus daylight saving. Daylight saving time (ho-
stations and around the main plazas. Eas- rario de verano, summer time) runs from
ily the most common, and most reliable on the first Sunday in April to the last Sunday
costs, are those marked with the name of in October. Clocks go forward one hour in
the country’s biggest phone company, Tel- April and back one hour in October.
mex. To use a Telmex card phone you need The fabled relaxed Mexican attitude to-
a phone card known as a tarjeta Ladatel. ward time and urgency – mañana, mañana –
These are sold at kiosks and shops every- is still practiced, especially outside the big
where – look for the blue-and-yellow signs cities. Most Mexicans value simpatía (con-
that read ‘De venta aquí Ladatel.’ The cards geniality) over promptness. If something is
come in denominations of MS30 (about really worth doing, it gets done.
US$2.80), M$50 (US$4.80) and M$100.
Calls from Telmex card phones cost TOILETS
US$0.10 per minute for local calls; US$0.40 Public toilets are rare, so take advantage
per minute long-distance within Mexico; of facilities in places such as hotels, res-
US$0.50 per minute to the USA or Canada; taurants, bus terminals and museums; a
US$1 per minute to Central America; US$2 fee of about US$0.20 may be charged. It’s
per minute to Europe, Alaska or South fairly common for toilets in budget hotels
America; and US$2.50 per minute to Ha- and restaurants to lack seats. When out
waii, Australia, New Zealand or Asia. and about, carry some toilet paper with
In some parts of Mexico frequented by you because it often won’t be provided. If
foreign tourists, you may notice a variety of there’s a bin beside the toilet, put soiled
phones that advertise that they accept credit paper in it because the drains can’t cope
cards or that you can make easy collect calls otherwise.
to the USA on them. While some of these
phones may be a fair value, there are oth- TOURIST INFORMATION
ers on which very high rates are charged. Just about every town of interest to tour-
Be 100% sure about what you’ll pay before ists in the Yucatán has a state or municipal
making a call on a non-Telmex phone. tourist office. They are generally helpful
with maps, brochures and questions, and
Toll-Free & Operator Numbers often some staff members speak English.
Mexican toll-free numbers (% 800 fol- You can call the Mexico City office of the
lowed by seven digits) always require the national tourism ministry Sectur (%55-5250-
%01 prefix. You can call most of these and 0123/51, 800-903-9200; in the USA & Canada 1-800-446-
the %060 and %080 emergency numbers 3942, 1-800-482-9832, in Europe 00-800-1111-2266; www
from Telmex pay phones without inserting .visitmexico.com) at any time – 24 hours a day,
a phone card. seven days a week – for information or help
Most US and Canadian toll-free num- in English or Spanish.
bers are % 800 or % 888 followed by Here are the contact details for the head
seven digits. These can be reached from tourism offices of each state covered in this
Mexico, by dialing %001 then replacing book:
the prefix with %880, but there is a charge Campeche (%981-811-9229, 800-900-2267; www
for the call. .campechetravel.com)
© Lonely Planet Publications
268 D I R E C T O R Y • • V i s a s www.lonelyplanet.com
DIREC TORY
Chiapas (%961-602-5127, 800-280-3500; www A tourist card only permits you to en-
.turismochiapas.gob.mx) gage in what are considered to be tourist
Quintana Roo (%983-835-0860; sedetur.qroo.gob activities (including sports, health, artistic
.mx in Spanish) and cultural activities). If the purpose of
Tabasco (%993-316-3633, 800-216-0842; www your visit is to work (even as a volunteer),
.visitetabasco.com) to report or to study, or to participate in
Yucatán (%999-930-3760; www.mayayucatan.com) humanitarian aid or human-rights obser-
vation, you may well need a visa. Check
VISAS with a Mexican embassy or consulate
Every tourist must have an easily obtainable (p258).
Mexican government tourist card (below). The maximum possible stay is 180 days
Some nationalities also need to obtain visas. for most nationalities (90 days for Austra-
Because the regulations sometimes change, lians, Austrians, Israelis and Italians, among
it’s wise to confirm them with a Mexican others), but immigration officers will often
embassy or consulate before you go (see put a much lower number (as little as 15
p258). Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) has or 30 days in some cases) unless you tell
links to updated visa information. them specifically that you need, say, 90 or
Citizens of the USA, Canada, EU coun- 180 days. It’s advisable to ask for more days
tries, Australia, New Zealand, Iceland, Is- than you think you’ll need.
rael, Japan, Norway and Switzerland are Though the tourist card itself is issued
among those who do not require visas to free of charge, a tourist fee of about US$20,
enter Mexico as tourists. The list changes called the derecho para no inmigrante (DNI,
from time to time; check well ahead of nonimmigrant fee), will need to be paid
travel. Visa procedures, for those who need before you leave the country. If you enter
them, can take several weeks and you may Mexico by air, however, the fee is included
be required to apply in your country of resi- in your airfare. If you enter by land, you
dence or citizenship. must pay the fee at a bank in Mexico at any
For information on passport require- time before you reenter the frontier zone
ments, see p271. Non-US citizens passing on your way out of Mexico (or before you
(even in transit) through the USA on the check in at an airport to fly out of Mexico).
way to or from Mexico, or visiting Mexico Most Mexican border posts have on-the-
from the USA, should also check the pass- spot bank offices where you can pay the
port and visa requirements for the USA. DNI fee. When you pay at a bank, your
tourist card will be stamped to prove that
Tourist Card & Tourist Fee you have paid.
The Mexican tourist card – officially the Look after your tourist card because it
forma migratoria para turista (FMT) – is may be checked when you leave the coun-
a brief card document that you must fill try. You can be fined US$42 for not hav-
out and get stamped by Mexican immigra- ing it.
tion when you enter Mexico and keep till
you leave. It’s available at official border EXTENSIONS & LOST CARDS
crossings, international airports and ports, If the number of days given on your tour-
and often from airlines, travel agencies and ist card is less than the maximum for your
Mexican consulates. At the US–Mexico nationality (90 or 180 days in most cases),
border you won’t usually be given one auto- its validity may be extended one or more
matically – you have to ask for it. times, up to the maximum. To get a card
At many US–Mexico border crossings extended you have to apply to the INM,
you don’t have to get the card stamped at which has offices in many towns and cit-
the border itself, as Mexico’s Instituto Na- ies (see www.inm.gob.mx for a list, under
cional de Migración (INM, National Im- Servicios Migratorios/Oficinas y horarios
migration Institute) has control points on de atención). The procedure costs around
the highways where it’s also possible to do US$20 and takes up to three hours. You’ll
it. But it’s preferable to get it done at the need your passport, tourist card, photocop-
border itself, in case there are complica- ies of the important pages of these docu-
tions elsewhere. ments, and, at some offices, evidence of
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • W o m e n T r a v e l e r s 269
DIREC TORY
‘sufficient funds.’ A major credit card is Lone women can expect a few catcalls
usually OK for the latter, or an amount in and attempts to chat them up. Often you
traveler’s checks anywhere from US$100 to can discourage unwanted attention by
US$1000 depending on the office. avoiding eye contact (wear sunglasses),
Most INM offices will not extend a card dressing modestly, moving confidently and
until a few days before it is due to expire; speaking coolly but politely if you feel that
don’t bother trying earlier. you must respond. Wearing a wedding ring
If you lose your card or need further in- can prove helpful too. Don’t put yourself in
formation, contact your nearest tourist of- peril by doing things that Mexican women
fice, or the Sectur tourist office (%55-5250-0123, would not do, such as challenging a man’s
800-903-9200) in Mexico City, or your embassy masculinity, drinking alone in a cantina,
or consulate. Any of these should be able hitchhiking or going alone to isolated
to give you an official note to take to your places. Keep a clear head.
local INM office, which will issue a dupli- In beach resorts many Mexican women
cate for US$42. dress in shorts, skimpy tops or dresses, and
swimsuits of all sizes, though others bow to
Under-18 Travelers modesty and swim in shorts and a T-shirt.
To conform with regulations aimed at On the streets of cities and towns you’ll no-
preventing international child abduction, tice that women cover up and don’t display
minors (people under 18) traveling to Mex- too much leg or even their shoulders. The
ico without one or both of their parents bare, pierced-belly look so popular in the
may need to carry a notarized consent form West is not common.
signed by the absent parent or parents, giv- Lone women, and even pairs of women,
ing permission for the young traveler to should be cautious about going to remote
make the international journey. Though beach spots.
Mexico does not specifically require this On local transportation it’s best to don
documentation, airlines flying to Mexico long or mid-calf-length trousers and a
may refuse to board passengers without it. top that meets the top of your pants, with
In the case of divorced parents, a custody sleeves of some sort. That way you’ll feel
document may be required. If one or both most comfortable, and you also have the
parents are dead, or the traveler has only benefit of keeping your valuables out of
one legal parent, a death certificate or no- sight with ease.
tarized statement of the situation may be Most of all, appear self-assured.
required.
These rules are aimed primarily at visi- WORK
tors from the USA and Canada but may also Mexicans themselves need jobs, and peo-
apply to people from elsewhere. Procedures ple who enter Mexico as tourists are not
vary from country to country; contact your legally allowed to take employment. The
country’s foreign affairs department and/ many expats working in Mexico have usu-
or a Mexican consulate to find out exactly ally been posted there by their companies
what you need to do. Forms for the pur- or organizations with all the necessary
poses required are usually available from papers.
these authorities. English-speakers (and a few German or
French speakers) may find teaching jobs
WOMEN TRAVELERS in language schools, preparatorias (high
Women can have a great time in Mexico, schools) or universities, or can offer per-
traveling with companions or traveling sonal tutoring. The pay is low, but you can
solo, but in this land that invented ma- live on it.
chismo, some concessions have to be made A foreigner working in Mexico normally
to local custom. Gender equalization has needs a permit or government license, but
come a long way in a few decades, and Mex- a school will often pay a foreign teacher
icans are generally a very polite people, but in the form of a beca (scholarship), and
they remain, by and large, great believers thus circumvent the law, or the school’s
in the difference (rather than the equality) administration will procure the appropri-
between the sexes. ate papers.
© Lonely Planet Publications
270 D I R E C T O R Y • • W o r k www.lonelyplanet.com
DIREC TORY
271
Transportation
December 31, 2006 to carry passports, and
CONTENTS the same to apply to land travelers from
December 31, 2007. Accordingly, after this
Getting There & Away 271
date, travelers won’t be able to return to
Entering the Country 271
the US from Mexico (or to enter the US
Air 271
from Canada) without a passport. For full
Land 274
T R A N S P O R TAT I O N
details, visit the US State Department website
River 274
(www.travel.state.gov).
Sea 275
Getting Around 275
In any case it’s much better to have a
Air 275
passport because officials of all countries
Bicycle 275
prefer them and may delay people who have
Boat 276
other documents. In Mexico you will often
Bus & Colectivo 276
need your passport if you change money
Car & Motorcycle 277 or you may be asked to show it when you
Hitchhiking 280 check into a hotel.
Tours 280 Those required to have a passport should
make sure it is valid for at least six months
after arriving in Mexico. Before you leave,
GETTING THERE & get photocopies of the main page of your
passport as well as your visa and airline
AWAY tickets in the event the originals are lost
or stolen.
ENTERING THE COUNTRY For information on Mexican visa re-
Mexican immigration officers usually quirements and the tourist card, see p268.
won’t keep you waiting any longer than Travelers under 18 who are not accompa-
it takes to flick through your passport and nied by both their parents may need special
enter your length of stay on your tourist documentation (see p269).
card (p268). Stay patient and polite, even
if the procedure takes some time to com- AIR
plete. Anyone traveling to Mexico via the Most visitors to the Yucatán arrive by air.
USA should be sure to check US visa and Air routes are structured so that virtually
passport requirements. all international flights into the region pass
Flights, tours and train tickets can all be through a handful of ‘hub’ cities: Dallas/
booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com Fort Worth, Houston, Los Angeles, Mexico
/travel_services. City, Miami or New York.
Passport
Though it’s not recommended, US and Ca- THINGS CHANGE…
nadian tourists can, at the time of writing, The information in this chapter is particu-
enter Mexico without a passport until 2007 larly vulnerable to change. Check directly
if they have official photo identification, with the airline or a travel agent to make
such as a driver’s license, plus some proof sure you understand how a fare (and ticket
of their citizenship such as an original birth you may buy) works, and be aware of the
certificate. But this is mooted for change security requirements for international
for Americans, and for Canadians passing travel, especially if traveling via the USA.
through the USA, due to new US regula- Shop carefully. The details given in this
tions called the Western Hemisphere Travel chapter should be regarded as pointers and
Initiative. These regulations are expected are not a substitute for your own careful,
to require all air and sea travelers enter- up-to-date research.
ing the USA from Mexico or Canada from
© Lonely Planet Publications
Mexicana was bought by Grupo Posadas, mid-April) Cancún attracts swarms of col-
Mexico’s biggest hotel company, in 2005, lege students and inexpensive fares vanish
and at the time of writing the government months in advance. In addition to websites
hoped to sell off Aeroméxico in 2006. Their and ticket agents such as those recom-
safety records are comparable to major US mended following, it’s often worth checking
and European airlines. the airlines’ own websites for special deals.
Newspapers, magazines and websites serv-
AIRLINES FLYING TO & FROM YUCATÁN ing Mexican communities in other coun-
Aeroméxico (code AM; %800-021-4000; www.aero tries are also good sources. Lonely Planet
mexico.com; hub Mexico City) Campeche (%981-816-5678); (www.lonelyplanet.com) has good links, too.
Cancún (%998-287-1822); Mérida (%999-946-1400) On flights to and within Mexico, children
Alaska Airlines (code AS; %800-252-7522; www under two generally travel for 10% of the
.alaskaair.com; hub Seattle) adult fare, as long as they do not occupy
America West (code HP; %800-235-9292; www a seat, and those aged two to 11 normally
.americawest.com; hub Phoenix) pay 67%.
American Airlines (code AA; %800-904-6000; www If Yucatán is part of a trip encompassing
.aa.com; hub Dallas) other countries, the best ticket for you may
ATA (code ATA; %800-883-5228; www.ata.com; hub Chicago) be an open jaw (where you fly into one place
Aviacsa (code 6A; %800-006-2200; www.aviacsa.com; and out of another, covering the interven-
hub Mexico City) ing distance by land), or a round-the-world
Click Mexicana (code QA; %800-122-5425; www ticket (these can cost as little as UK£900,
.clickmx.com; hub Cancún & Mexico City) A$2100 or US$1700), or a Circle Pacific
Continental Airlines (code CO; %800-900-5000; ticket, which uses a combination of airlines
www.continental.com; hub Houston) to circle the Pacific. Airtreks (www.airtreks.com) is
Cubana (code CU; %52-5250-6355; www.cubana.co.cu; one good source for multistop tickets.
hub Havana) International online booking agencies
Delta Airlines (code DL; %800-123-4710; www.delta. worth a look include CheapTickets (www
com; hub Atlanta) .cheaptickets.com) and, for students and travel-
Frontier Airlines (code F9; in the USA%800-432-1359; ers under the age of 26, STA Travel (www
www.frontierairlines.com; hub Denver) .statravel.com).
LTU (code LT; in Germany %211-9418-333; www.ltu.de;
hub Dusseldorf ) Asia
Mexicana de Aviación (code MX; %800-509-8960; From Asia you normally have to make a
www.mexicana.com; hub Mexico City) connection in the USA or Canada (often
Los Angeles, San Francisco or Vancouver),
and maybe one in Asia as well. From more
DEPARTURE TAX westerly Asian points such as Bangkok,
A departure tax equivalent to about US$25 routes via Europe are also an option.
is levied on international flights from Mex- No 1 Travel (%03-3205-6073; www.no1-travel.com)
ico. It’s usually included in the price of your Good Japanese option.
ticket, but if it isn’t, you must pay in cash STA Travel Bangkok (%2237-9400; www.statravel.co.th);
during airport check-in. Ask your travel Singapore (%6737-7188; www.statravel.com.sg); Hong Kong
agent in advance. (%2736-1618; www.statravel.com.hk); Tokyo (%03-
5391-2922; www.statravel.co.jp) STA proliferates in Asia.
© Lonely Planet Publications
T R A N S P O R TAT I O N
centre.co.nz) For online bookings throughout Europe,
STA Travel Australia (%1300-733-035; www.statravel try www.opodo.com or www.ebookers.com.
.com.au); New Zealand (%0508-782-872; www.statravel
.co.nz) IN CONTINENTAL EUROPE
France
For online fares try www.travel.com.au or Nouvelles Frontières (%08-25-00-07-47; www
www.zuji.com from Australia, and www .nouvelles-frontieres.fr)
.travel.co.nz or www.zuji.co.nz from New OTU Voyages (%01-55-82-32-32; www.otu.fr) A
Zealand. student and youth travel specialist.
Voyageurs du Monde (%08-92-68-83-63; www
Canada .vdm.com)
Montreal, Toronto and Vancouver all have
direct flights to Mexico, though better deals Germany
are often available with a change of flight Expedia (www.expedia.de)
in the US. Round-trip fares from Toronto Just Travel (%089-747-3330; www.justtravel.de)
start around C$900 to Cancún. Travel Cuts STA Travel (%069-743-032-92; www.statravel.de) For
(%800-667-2887; www.travelcuts.com) is Canada’s travelers aged under 26.
national student-travel agency. For online
bookings try www.kayak.com, www.expedia Other Countries
.ca and www.travelocity.ca. Airfair (%070-307-6110; www.airfair.nl) Dutch.
CTS Viaggi (%199-501-150; www.cts.it) Italian
Central & South America & Cuba specialist in student and youth travel.
There are direct flights to Cancún from eDreams (%902-887-107; www.edreams.es) Spanish.
Guatemala City and Flores (Guatemala), Kilroy Travels (www.kilroytravels.com) Covers
Havana, Panama City and São Paulo. The Scandinavia.
Havana–Cancún flights continue to Mérida. Rumbo (%902-123-999; www.rumbo.es) Spanish.
Round-trip fares start around US$500 from
Guatemala City and US$800 to US$1000 IN THE UK
from South America. Flight advertisements appear in the travel
US visitors heading to Cuba should en- pages of the weekend broadsheet newspa-
sure they get their entry stamp on a piece pers, in Time Out, the Evening Standard
of paper (and not in their passports); and free online magazine TNT (www.tnt
otherwise the US authorities will not be magazine.com).
impressed. An excellent place to start your inquiries
Recommended ticket agencies include is Journey Latin America (%020-8747-3108; www
the following: .journeylatinamerica.co.uk), which offers a variety
ASATEJ (%011-4114-7595; www.asatej.com) In of tours as well as flights. Other recom-
Argentina. mended agencies include the following:
IVI Tours (%0212-993-6082; www.ividiomas.com) In Flight Centre (%0800-5877-0058; flightcentre.co.uk)
Venezuela. Flightbookers (%0800-082-3000; www.ebookers.com)
Student Travel Bureau (%3038-1555; www.stb.com STA Travel (%0870-163-0026; www.statravel.co.uk)
.br) In Brazil. For travelers under the age of 26.
Viajo.com (www.viajo.com) Online and phone bookings Trailfinders (%0845-058-5858; www.trailfinders.co.uk)
from several countries. Travelbag (%0800-082-5000; www.travelbag.com)
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r 275
T R A N S P O R TAT I O N
Mexico with a life of ease on the high seas,
take a cruise! Caribbean Mexico is a very providing service between provincial cities.
popular cruise destination, usually in com- The US Federal Aviation Administration
bination with other Caribbean stops and/or considers Mexico to be in compliance with
Key West, Florida. Cozumel island is eas- international aviation safety standards.
ily the busiest cruise stop in Mexico. Mexi-
co’s other Caribbean cruise ports are Costa AIRLINES FLYING WITHIN YUCATÁN
Maya, Puerto Morelos and the new Calica, Each of the following has domestic flights
just south of Playa del Carmen. Progreso, on into Yucatán.
the Yucatán’s north coast, is also popular. Aeromar (code BQ; %800-237-6627; www.aeromar
A Caribbean cruise from ports in the .com.mx) Also services Central Mexico, west, northeast,
southeastern USA can cost well under Gulf coast.
US$1000 per person for 10 days. Aeroméxico (code AM; %800-021-4000; www
Following are some of the cruise lines .aeromexico.com) Over 50 cities nationwide.
visiting Mexico, with US phone numbers: Aviacsa (code 6A; %800-006-2200; www.aviacsa.com)
Carnival Cruise Lines (%888-227-6482; www Services 20 cities around the country.
.carnival.com) Click Mexicana (code QA; %800-122-5425 www
Crystal Cruises (%800-804-1500; www.crystalcruises .clickmx.com) Connections to Veracruz, Guadalajara, Toluca
.com) and other cities around the country.
Holland America Line (%877-724-5425; www Interjet (%800-011-2345; www.interjet.com.mx)
.hollandamerica.com) Services to Toluca, Guadalajara, Monterrey.
Norwegian Cruise Lines (%800-327-7030; www Líneas Aéreas Azteca (%800-229-8322; www
.ncl.com) .aazteca.com.mx; Cancún) Mexico City, Oaxaca, north, west.
P&O Cruises (%415-382-8900; www.pocruises.com) Magnicharters (in Cancún%998-884-0212; www
Princess Cruises (%800-774-6237; www.princess.com) .magnicharters.com.mx) Mexico City, Guadalajara, Monter-
Royal Caribbean International (%800-398-9813; rey, León, San Luis Potosí.
www.royalcaribbean.com) Mexicana (code MX; %800-502-2000; www.mexicana
.com) Over 50 cities nationwide.
Volaris (%800-786-5274; www.volaris.com.mx) Toluca,
GETTING AROUND Guadalajara, León, Monterey.
AIR BICYCLE
Airlines in Yucatán Cycling on the peninsula’s highways can be
Flights from other parts of Mexico arrive hair-raising because of the narrow shoul-
at the airports of Campeche, Mérida, Can- ders and speeding traffic. Many routes see
cún, Cozumel, Playa del Carmen, Ciudad a lot of local bicycle traffic, but on some of
del Carmen and Chetumal. Another useful them you’ll often see cyclists, pedestrians
gateway for the region is Tuxtla Gutiérrez, and even dogs step off the pavement and
which services San Cristóbal de Las Casas wait by the side of the road until traffic
in Chiapas. For details, see the Getting passes. The tropical sun can be brutal, but
There & Away sections of those cities. at least the roads are mostly flat. If you’re
Aeroméxico and Mexicana are the coun- bringing your own bike to tour, be prepared
try’s two major airlines. There are also to handle your own repairs.
numerous smaller ones, often cheaper and For details on bike rental, see p56.
© Lonely Planet Publications
276 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B o a t www.lonelyplanet.com
Purchase Classes
Of course it’s possible to purchase a bicycle DELUXE
in the Yucatán. Indeed, if you plan on stay- De lujo services, sometimes termed ejecu-
ing on the peninsula for months and want tivo (executive), run mainly on the busy
to get around by bike or at least exercise routes. They are swift, modern and com-
on one, purchasing isn’t a bad option, as fortable, with reclining seats, adequate leg-
there are many inexpensive models avail- room, air-con, few or no stops, toilets on
able in the big cities. A good place to pick board (but not necessarily toilet paper), and
up a cheap bike is the duty-free Zona Libre sometimes drinks or snacks. Deluxe buses
between Belize and Mexico; see p150. usually show movies on video screens, and
may offer headphones.
T R A N S P O R TAT I O N
BOAT
Ferries run from the mainland to the islands 1ST CLASS
of Isla Mujeres (p90), Cozumel (p113) and On Primera (1a) clase buses, standards of
Isla Holbox (p93). comfort are adequate at the very least. The
buses usually have air-con and a toilet and
BUS & COLECTIVO they stop infrequently. They always show
The Yucatán Peninsula has a good road and movies (often bad ones) for most of the
bus network, and comfortable, frequent, trip.
reasonably priced bus services connect all Bring a sweater or jacket to combat over-
cities. Most cities and towns have one main zealous air-conditioning. As with deluxe
bus terminal where all long-distance buses buses, you buy your ticket in the bus sta-
arrive and depart. It may be called the Ter- tion before boarding.
minal de Autobuses, Central de Autobuses,
Central Camionera or simply La Central 2ND CLASS
(not to be confused with el centro, the city Segunda (2a) clase buses serve small towns
center!) If there is no single main terminal, and villages, and provide cheaper, slower
different bus companies will have separate travel on some intercity routes. A few are
terminals scattered around town. almost as quick, comfortable and direct as
Baggage is safe if stowed in the bus’s bag- 1st-class buses. Others are old, slow and
gage hold, but get a receipt for it when you shabby.
hand it over. Keep your valuables (passport, Many 2nd-class services have no ticket
money etc) on you, and keep them closely office; you just pay your fare to the con-
protected. ductor. These buses tend to take slow,
Highway robbery happens very occasion- nontoll roads in and out of big cities and
ally, usually at night, on isolated stretches of will stop anywhere to pick up passengers: if
highway. See p257 for details. you board midroute you might make some
of the trip standing. The small amount of some towns, especially on short-haul routes
money you save by traveling 2nd class is and those linking rural settlements. These
not usually worth the discomfort or extra vehicles usually leave whenever they are
journey time entailed. full. Fares are typically a little less than
Second-class buses can also be less safe 1st-class buses. Combi is often used as a
than 1st-class or deluxe buses, for reasons catch-all term for these services regardless
of maintenance, driver standards, or be- of van type, as is taxi colectivo (shared taxi)
cause they are more vulnerable to being or simply colectivo.
boarded by bandits on quiet roads. Out in More basic are passenger-carrying cami-
the remoter areas, however, you’ll often ones (trucks) and camionetas (pickups),
find that 2nd-class buses are the only buses usually with benches lining the sides.
T R A N S P O R TAT I O N
available. Standing in the back of a lurching truck
Microbuses or ‘micros’ are small, usually with a couple of dozen campesinos (farm
fairly new, 2nd-class buses with around 25 workers) and their machetes and animals
seats, often running short routes between is at least an experience to remember. Fares
nearby towns. are similar to 2nd-class bus fares.
The gasoline on sale is all sin plomo to US$60 a day including unlimited kilo-
(unleaded). There are two varieties: magna meters, insurance and tax. If you rent by the
sin, roughly equivalent to US regular un- week or month, the per-day cost can come
leaded, and premium, roughly equivalent down by 20% to 40%. You can also cut costs
to US super unleaded. At the time of re- by avoiding airport pickups and drop-offs,
search, magna sin cost about US$0.60 a liter for which 10% can be added to your total
(US$2.40 a US gallon), and premium about check. The extra charge for drop-off in an-
US$0.70. Diesel fuel is widely available at other city, when available, is usually about
around US$0.50 a liter. Regular Mexican US$0.40 per kilometer.
diesel has a higher sulfur content than US Some major firms in Mexico:
diesel, but there is a ‘diesel sin’ with less Alamo (%800-849-8001; www.alamo.com)
T R A N S P O R TAT I O N
MEX 95km
180 Ciudad del
Bahía de Campeche Frontera Carmen Escárcega Río Isla
Paraíso Lagartos Isla
Holbox Contoy
20km
Campeche
180k
Chiquilá
48
Comalcalco Progreso
52km
km
73km
VILLAHERMOSA Cancún
www.lonelyplanet.com
Tabasco Tizimín
33km
MEX
186 MÉRIDA m
125 Catazajá 97k
k m 9 2km
69km
Celestún MEX
51km
180 Nuevo
km
km
35 Xcan Playa del
65
160km Valladolid
20km
Palenque 28km
Carmen
m
Maxcanú 31k
k
54k
190 14 m 307
Chiapas 0k MEX
m
4
Ticul Cobá
km
Yucatán 295
2k
m
63
k
m
MEX Isla
109
m
184 Tulum Cozumel
4k
11
Ocosingo Frontera
TUXTLA Corozal
141
GUTIÉRREZ m San Javier
km
MEX
80km k 14
98 km
57km
7k
16km 16km 180 m 95
0 80 km San Cristóbal Bonampak
0 50 miles de Las Casas 82k
m Punta
CAMPECHE
Hopelchén Allen
58km
Felipe
66km
Polyuc
Bahía de Carrillo
Puerto
m
Campeche 179
Champotón km
68k
84km
m Campeche
7k Roo
14 MEX
58
261 Cafetal
km
km
MEX 96 km
MEX
180 Ciudad del 186
Frontera Escárcega 56km CHETUMAL Banco
Carmen 123km MEX Chinchorro
Paraíso Conhuas
60km
Xpujil 186
MEX
Comalcalco Xcalak
180
Tabasco VILLAHERMOSA
CARIBBEAN
MEX
SEA
186 Catazajá
BELIZE
G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • D r i v i n g D i s t a n c e s 279
T R A N S P O R TAT I O N
© Lonely Planet Publications
© Lonely Planet Publications
280 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • H i t c h h i k i n g www.lonelyplanet.com
and oil are provided at cost. If you are near don’t have to pay a bribe, and corrupt cops
a telephone when your car has problems, would rather not work too hard to obtain
you can call their 24-hour hot line (%078) or one. You can also ask to see documentation
contact them through the national 24-hour about the law you have supposedly broken,
tourist-assistance service (% 800-903-9200) in ask for the officer’s identification, ask to
Mexico City. There’s a map of the roads speak to a superior, and/or note the offic-
they patrol at www.sectur.gob.mx/wb2 er’s name, badge number, vehicle number
/sectur/sect_9454_rutas_carreteras. and department (federal, state or munici-
pal). Pay any traffic fines at a police station
CITY PARKING and get a receipt, then if you wish to make a
It’s not usually a good idea to park on the complaint head for a state tourist office.
street overnight. If your hotel doesn’t have
parking, it’s best to find a commercial esta- HITCHHIKING
cionamiento (parking lot). These usually Hitchhiking is never entirely safe in any
cost around US$5 overnight and US$1 per country in the world, and is not recom-
hour during the day. mended. Travelers who decide to hitch
should understand that they are taking a
TOLL ROADS small but potentially serious risk. People
There are three major toll roads, mostly who do choose to hitch will be safer if they
four-lane, in the Yucatán that connect the travel in pairs and let someone know where
major cities. They are generally in much they are planning to go. A woman traveling
better condition and a lot quicker than the alone certainly should not hitchhike in
alternative free roads. Cuotas (tolls) average Mexico, and even two women together is
about US$1 per 10km. not advisable.
However, some people do choose to
Road Rules hitchhike, and it’s not an uncommon way
Drive on the right-hand side of the road. of getting to some of the off-the-beaten-
One-way streets are the rule in cities. Pri- track archaeological sites and other places
ority at street intersections is indicated by that tend to be poorly served by bus. Keep
thin black and red rectangles containing your wits about you and don’t accept a lift
white arrows. A black rectangle facing you if you have any misgivings.
means you have priority; a red one means In Mexico it’s customary for the hitch-
you don’t. The white arrows indicate the hiker to offer to pay for the ride, especially
direction of traffic on the cross street; if if the ride is in a work or commercial vehi-
the arrow points both ways, it’s a two-way cle. As a general rule, offer about US$1 per
street. person for every 30 minutes of the ride but
Speed limits range between 80km/h and not less than US$2 total and never more
120km/h on open highways (less when than US$10.
highways pass through built-up areas), and
between 30km/h and 50km/h in towns and TOURS
cities. Seat belts are obligatory for all oc- For details on tours offered by locally based
cupants of a car, and children under five operators, check the destination chapters.
© Lonely Planet Publications
281
H E A LT H
eases, though mosquito-borne infections policies offer lower and higher medical-
can also be a problem. Most of these ill- expense options; the higher ones are chiefly
nesses are not life threatening, but they can for countries such as the USA, which have
certainly impact on your trip. Besides get- extremely high medical costs. There is a wide
ting the proper vaccinations, it’s important variety of policies; check the small print.
that you bring a good insect repellent.
VACCINATIONS
The only required vaccination for Mexico is
BEFORE YOU GO yellow fever, and that’s only if you’re arriv-
ing from a yellow fever–infected country in
Since most vaccines don’t produce immu- Africa or South America (including Guate-
nity until at least two weeks after they’re mala). However, a number of vaccines are
given, visit a physician four to eight weeks recommended: see table below. Rabies injec-
before departure. Ask your doctor for an In- tions are only recommended for those who
ternational Certificate of Vaccination, which may have contact with animals and won’t
will list vaccinations you’ve received. have access to immediate health care.
Bring medications in their original con-
tainers, clearly labeled. A signed, dated letter Vaccine Dosage
from your physician describing all medical
conditions and medications, including gen- hepatitis A 1 dose before trip; booster
eric names, is also a good idea. If carrying 6-12 months later
syringes or needles, be sure to have a phys- typhoid 4 capsules by mouth,
ician’s letter documenting their necessity. 1 taken every other day
hepatitis B long-term travelers in close
INSURANCE contact with the local population;
Mexican medical treatment is generally in- 3 doses over 6-month period
expensive for common diseases and minor rabies 3 doses over 3-4 week period
treatment, but if you suffer some serious tetanus- 1 dose lasts 10 years
medical problem, you may want to find a diphtheria
private hospital or fly out for treatment. measles 1 dose
© Lonely Planet Publications
for cuts and abrasions Walker et al, and Medicine for the Outdoors,
Adhesive or paper tape by Paul S Auerbach, are other valuable
Bandages, gauze, gauze rolls resources.
DEET-containing insect repellent for the
skin
Iodine tablets (for water purification)
Oral rehydration salts
IN TRANSIT
Permethrin-containing insect spray for DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT )
clothing, tents and bed nets Blood clots may form in the legs (deep
Pocket knife vein thrombosis) during plane flights,
Scissors, safety pins, tweezers chiefly because of prolonged immobility.
Steroid cream or cortisone (for poison The longer the flight, the greater the risk.
ivy and other allergic rashes) Though most blood clots are reabsorbed
Sun block uneventfully, some may break off and
Syringes and sterile needles (with doctor’s travel through the blood vessels to the
letter) lungs, where they could cause complica-
Thermometer tions that are life-threatening.
The chief symptom of DVT is swelling
INTERNET RESOURCES or pain of the foot, ankle, or calf, usually
There is a wealth of travel health advice but not always on just one side. When a
on the Internet. For further information, blood clot travels to the lungs, it may cause
the Lonely Planet website at www.lonely- chest pain and difficulty breathing. Travel-
planet.com is a good place to start. The ers with any of these symptoms should im-
World Health Organization publishes a mediately seek medical attention.
superb book called International Travel To prevent the development of DVT
and Health, which is revised annually and on long flights you should walk about the
is available online at no cost at www.who. cabin, perform isometric compressions of
int/ith. Another website of general inter- the leg muscles (ie contract the leg muscles
est is MD Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com), while sitting), drink plenty of fluids, and
which provides complete travel health rec- avoid alcohol and tobacco.
© Lonely Planet Publications
JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS tom is high spiking fevers, which may be
Jet lag is common when crossing more than accompanied by chills, sweats, headache,
five time zones, resulting in insomnia, fa- body aches, general weakness, vomiting or
tigue, malaise or nausea. To avoid jet lag diarrhea. Severe cases may involve the cen-
try drinking plenty of nonalcoholic fluids tral ner vous system and lead to seizures,
and eating light meals. Upon arrival, get confusion, coma and death.
exposure to natural sunlight and readjust Taking malaria pills is strongly recom-
your schedule (for meals, sleep etc) as soon mended when visiting rural areas. For
as possible. Mexico, the first-choice malaria pill is chlo-
Antihistamines such as dimenhydrin- roquine, taken once weekly in a dosage of
ate (Dramamine) and meclizine (Antivert, 500mg, starting one to two weeks before
Bonine) are usually the first choice for arrival and continuing through the trip and
treating motion sickness. Their main side for four weeks after departure. Chloroquine
effect is drowsiness. A herbal alternative is is safe, inexpensive and highly effective.
ginger, which works like a charm for some Side effects are typically mild. Severe reac-
people. tions are uncommon.
Protecting yourself against mosquito
bites is just as important as taking ma-
IN MEXICO laria pills (see p285), as no pills are 100%
effective.
AVAILABILITY & COST OF If you develop a fever after returning
HEALTH CARE home, see a physician, as malaria symp-
There are a number of first-rate clinics in toms may not occur for months. It can be
Cancún (p69). In general, private facilities diagnosed by a simple blood test.
offer better health care, though at greater
H E A LT H
cost, than public hospitals. Adequate med- Dengue Fever
ical care is available in other major cities Dengue fever is a viral infection found
of the region, but facilities in rural areas throughout Central America. In Mexico,
may be limited. the risk is greatest along the Gulf Coast,
Many doctors and hospitals expect pay- especially from July to September. Dengue
ment in cash, regardless of whether you is transmitted by Aedes mosquitoes, which
have travel health insurance. If you de- bite preferentially during the day and are
velop a life-threatening medical problem, usually found close to human habitations,
you’ll probably want to be evacuated to a often indoors. They breed primarily in ar-
country with state-of-the-art medical care. tificial water containers, such as barrels,
Be sure you have insurance to cover this cans, cisterns, metal drums, plastic con-
(see p281). tainers and discarded tires. As a result,
Mexican pharmacies are identified by dengue is especially common in urban
a green cross and a ‘Farmacia’ sign. Most environments.
are well stocked and the pharmacists well Dengue usually causes flu-like symptoms
trained. Reliable pharmacy chains include including fever, muscle aches, joint pains,
Sanborns, Farmacia Guadalajara, Benavides headaches, nausea and vomiting, often
and Farmacia Fenix. To find an after-hours followed by a rash. The body aches may
pharmacy, look in the local newspaper, ask be quite uncomfortable, but most cases
your hotel concierge, or check the front resolve uneventfully in a few days. Severe
door of a local pharmacy, which will often cases usually occur in children under 15
post the name of a nearby pharmacy that is who are experiencing their second dengue
open after hours. infection.
There is no specific treatment for den-
INFECTIOUS DISEASES gue fever except to take analgesics such as
Malaria acetaminophen/paracetamol (Tylenol) and
Malaria occurs in every country in Cen- drink plenty of fluids. Severe cases may re-
tral America, including parts of Mexico. quire hospitalization. There is no vaccine.
It’s transmitted by mosquito bites, usually The cornerstone of prevention is insect
between dusk and dawn. The main symp- protection measures (see p285).
© Lonely Planet Publications
Like hepatitis A, hepatitis B is a liver in- skin with infected saliva may result in ra-
fection that occurs worldwide but is more bies. Rabies occurs in all Central American
common in developing nations. Unlike countries. Most cases in Mexico are related
hepatitis A, the disease is usually acquired to dog bites, but bats and other wild species
by sexual contact or by exposure to infected remain sources of infection.
blood, generally through blood transfusions The rabies vaccine is safe, but a full se-
or contaminated needles. The vaccine is ries requires three injections and is quite
recommended only for long-term travelers expensive. Those at high risk of rabies, such
(on the road more than six months) who as animal handlers and spelunkers (cave ex-
expect to live in rural areas or have close plorers), should certainly get the vaccine,
physical contact with the local population. as well as people traveling to remote areas
Additionally, the vaccine is recommended away from appropriate medical care. The
for anyone who anticipates sexual contact treatment for a possibly rabid bite con-
with locals or a possible need for medical, sists of rabies vaccine with rabies immune
dental or other treatments while abroad, globulin. It’s effective, but must be given
especially if a need for transfusions or injec- promptly.
tions is expected. See p286 for what to do if bitten or
Hepatitis B vaccine is safe and highly ef- scratched by an animal.
fective. However, a total of three injections
are necessary to establish full immunity. Cholera
Several countries added hepatitis B vaccine Cholera is an intestinal infection acquired
to the list of routine childhood immuniza- through ingestion of contaminated food
tions in the 1980s, so many young adults or water. The main symptom is profuse,
are already protected. watery diarrhea, which may be so severe
that it causes life-threatening dehydration.
Typhoid Fever The key treatment is drinking oral rehy-
Typhoid fever is caused by ingestion of dration solution. Antibiotics are also given,
food or water contaminated by Salmonella usually tetracycline or doxycycline, though
typhi. Fever occurs in virtually all cases. quinolone antibiotics such as ciprofloxacin
Other symptoms may include headache, and levofloxacin are also effective.
© Lonely Planet Publications
www.lonelyplanet.com I N M E X I C O • • T r a v e l e r s ’ D i a r r h e a 285
Only a handful of cases have been re- four or five stools a day you should start
ported in Mexico over the last few years. The taking an antibiotic (usually a quinolone
cholera vaccine is no longer recommended. drug) and an antidiarrheal agent (eg lopera-
mide). If diarrhea is bloody or persists for
Other Infections more than 72 hours or is accompanied by
Gnathostomiasis is a parasite acquired by fever, shaking chills or severe abdominal
eating raw or undercooked freshwater fish, pain you should seek medical attention.
including ceviche, a popular lime-mari-
nated fish salad. The chief symptom is in- ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS &
termittent, migratory swellings under the TREATMENT
skin, sometimes associated with joint pains, Mosquito Bites
muscle pains or gastrointestinal problems. To prevent mosquito bites, wear long
The symptoms may not begin until many sleeves, long pants, hats and shoes (rather
months after exposure. than sandals). Bring along a good insect
Leishmaniasis occurs in the mountains repellent, preferably one containing DEET,
and jungles of all Central American coun- which should be applied to exposed skin and
tries. The infection is transmitted by sand clothing, but not to the eyes, mouth, cuts,
flies. Leishmaniasis may be limited to the wounds or irritated skin. Products contain-
skin, causing slowly growing ulcers over ex- ing lower concentrations of DEET are as
posed parts of the body. The disease may effective, but for shorter periods of time. In
be particularly severe in those with HIV. general, adults and children over 12 should
There is no vaccine for leishmaniasis. To use preparations containing 25% to 35%
protect yourself from sand flies, follow the DEET, which usually last about six hours.
same precautions as for mosquitoes (right), Children between two and 12 years should
except that netting must be finer mesh (at use preparations containing no more than
H E A LT H
least 18 holes to the linear inch). 10% DEET, applied sparingly, which will
Brucellosis is an infection occurring usually last about three hours. Neurologi-
in domestic and wild animals that may cal toxicity has been reported from DEET,
be transmitted to humans through direct especially in children, but appears to be ex-
animal contact or by consumption of un- tremely uncommon and generally related
pasteurized dairy products from infected to overuse. Don’t use DEET-containing
animals. Symptoms may include fever, ma- compounds on children under two.
laise, depression, loss of appetite, headache, Insect repellents containing certain bo-
muscle aches and back pain. Complications tanical products, including oil of eucalyptus
can include arthritis, hepatitis, meningitis and soybean oil, are effective but last only
and endocarditis (heart valve infection). 1½ to two hours. Where there is a high
Typhus may be transmitted by lice in risk of malaria, use DEET-containing re-
scattered pockets of the country. pellents. Products based on citronella are
HIV/AIDS has been reported in all Cen- not effective.
tral American countries. Be sure to use con- For additional protection, apply permeth-
doms for all sexual encounters. rin to clothing, shoes, tents and bed nets.
Permethrin treatments are safe and remain
TRAVELERS’ DIARRHEA effective for at least two weeks, even when
To prevent diarrhea, avoid tap water unless items are laundered. Permethrin should not
it has been boiled, filtered or chemically dis- be applied directly to the skin.
infected (eg by iodine tablets); only eat fresh Don’t sleep with the window open un-
fruits or vegetables if cooked or peeled; be less there is a screen. If sleeping outdoors
wary of dairy products that might contain or in accommodations that allows entry of
unpasteurized milk; and be very selective mosquitoes, use a bed net treated with per-
when eating food from street vendors. methrin, with edges tucked in under the
If you develop diarrhea, be sure to drink mattress. The mesh size should be less than
plenty of fluids, preferably an oral rehy- 1.5mm. Alternatively, use a mosquito coil,
dration solution containing lots of salt and which will fill the room with insecticide
sugar. A few loose stools don’t require treat- through the night. Repellent-impregnated
ment, but if you start having more than wristbands are not effective.
© Lonely Planet Publications
stand for 30 minutes. If the water is cold, bites and scratches frequently become in-
a longer time may be required. The taste of fected. One of the newer quinolones, such
iodinated water can be improved by add- as levofloxacin (Levaquin), which many
ing vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Don’t drink travelers carry in case of diarrhea, would
iodinated water for more than a few weeks. be an appropriate choice.
Pregnant women, those with a history of
thyroid disease and those allergic to iodine SNAKE & SCORPION BITES
should not drink iodinated water. Venomous snakes in the Yucatán gener-
Numerous water filters are on the mar- ally do not attack without provocation, but
ket. Those with smaller pores (reverse os- may bite humans who accidentally come
mosis filters) provide the best protection, too close. Coral snakes are somewhat re-
but they are relatively large and are readily tiring and tend not to bite humans unless
plugged by debris. Those with somewhat considerably provoked.
larger pores (microstrainer filters) are in- In the event of a venomous snake bite,
effective against viruses, although they do place the victim at rest, keep the bitten
remove other organisms. Manufacturers’ area immobilized, and move them immedi-
instructions must be carefully followed. ately to the nearest medical facility. Avoid
using tourniquets, which are no longer
Sun & Heat recommended.
To protect yourself from excessive sun expos- Scorpions are a problem in many states.
ure, you should stay out of the midday sun, If stung, you should immediately apply
wear sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat, ice or cold packs, immobilize the affected
and apply sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher, body part and go to the nearest emergency
providing both UVA and UVB protection. room. To prevent scorpion stings, be sure
Sunscreen should be applied to all exposed to inspect and shake out clothing, shoes and
parts of the body approximately 30 minutes sleeping bags before use, and wear gloves
before sun exposure and be reapplied after and protective clothing when working
swimming or vigorous activity. around piles of wood or leaves.
© Lonely Planet Publications
287
Language
For a more comprehensive guide to the
Spanish of Mexico, get a copy of Lonely
CONTENTS Planet’s Mexican Spanish Phrasebook. For
words and phrases that will come in handy
Spanish 283 when dining, see p59.
Pronunciation 283
Gender & Plurals
Accommodations
284
284 SPANISH
Conversation & Essentials 285
Directions 285
PRONUNCIATION
Emergencies 286
Vowels
Health 286
a as in ‘father’
Language Difficulties 286
e as in ‘met’
Numbers 286 i as in ‘marine’
Shopping & Services 287 o as in ‘or’ (without the ‘r’ sound)
Time & Dates 287 u as in ‘rule’; the ‘u’ is not pronounced
Transport 288 after q and in the letter combinations
Yucatec Maya 289 gue and gui, unless it’s marked with
Pronunciation 289 a diaeresis (eg argüir), in which case
Useful Words & Phrases 289 it’s pronounced as English ‘w’
y at the end of a word or when it stands
alone, it’s pronounced as the Spanish
The predominant language of Mexico is i (eg ley); between vowels within a
Spanish. Mexican Spanish is unlike Castilian word it’s as the ‘y’ in ‘yonder’
Spanish (the language of much of Spain) in a
few respects: in Mexico the Castilian lisp has Consonants
more or less disappeared, the vosotros form As a rule, Spanish consonants resemble
(polite ‘you’) isn’t used, and numerous indi- their English counterparts. The exceptions
genous words have been adopted. are listed below.
Yucatec Maya is the predominant indi- While the consonants ch, ll and ñ are gen-
genous language of Yucatán. For some back- erally considered distinct letters, ch and ll
ground information and a few handy words are now often listed alphabetically under c
and l respectively. The letter ñ is still treated
LANGUAGE
290 S PA N I S H • • E m e r g e n c i e s www.lonelyplanet.com
LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES
EMERGENCIES Do you speak (English)?
Help! ¡Socorro! so·ko·ro ¿Habla/Hablas (inglés)? a·bla/a·blas (een·gles) (pol/inf)
Fire! ¡Fuego! fwe·go Does anyone here speak English?
I’ve been Me han robado. me an ro·ba·do ¿Hay alguien que hable ai al·gyen ke a·ble
robbed. inglés? een·gles
Go away! ¡Déjeme! de·khe·me I (don’t) understand.
Get lost! ¡Váyase! va·ya·se (No) Entiendo. (no) en·tyen·do
Call ...! ¡Llame a ...! ya·me a How do you say ...?
the police la policía la po·lee·see·a ¿Cómo se dice ...? ko·mo se dee·se ...
a doctor un médico oon me·dee·ko What does ...mean?
an ambulance una ambulancia oo·na am·boo· ¿Qué significa ...? ke seeg·nee·fee·ka ...
lan·sya
It’s an emergency. Could you please ...?
Es una emergencia. es oo·na e·mer·khen·sya ¿Puede ..., por favor? pwe·de ... por fa·vor
Could you help me, please? repeat that
¿Me puede ayudar, me pwe·de a·yoo·dar repetirlo re·pe·teer·lo
por favor? por fa·vor speak more slowly
I’m lost. hablar más despacio a·blar mas des·pa·syo
Estoy perdido/a. es·toy per·dee·do/a write it down
Where are the toilets? escribirlo es·kree·beer·lo
¿Dónde están los baños? don·de stan los ba·nyos
NUMBERS
1 uno oo·no
HEALTH 2 dos dos
I’m sick. 3 tres tres
Estoy enfermo/a. es·toy en·fer·mo/a 4 cuatro kwa·tro
I need a doctor. 5 cinco seen·ko
Necesito un doctor. ne·se·see·to oon dok·tor 6 seis says
Where’s the hospital? 7 siete sye·te
¿Dónde está el hospital? don·de es·ta el os·pee·tal 8 ocho o·cho
I’m pregnant. 9 nueve nwe·ve
Estoy embarazada. es·toy em·ba·ra·sa·da 10 diez dyes
I’ve been vaccinated. 11 once on·se
Estoy vacunado/a. es·toy va·koo·na·do/a 12 doce do·se
13 trece tre·se
LANGUAGE
pequeño/a
tomorrow mañana ma·nya·na
I’m looking Estoy buscando ... es·toy boos·kan·do yesterday ayer a·yer
for (the) ...
ATM el cajero el ka·khe·ro Monday lunes loo·nes
automático ow·to·ma·tee·ko Tuesday martes mar·tes
bank el banco el ban·ko Wednesday miércoles myer·ko·les
bookstore la librería la lee·bre·ree·a Thursday jueves khwe·ves
exchange house la casa de la ka·sa de Friday viernes vyer·nes
cambio kam·byo Saturday sábado sa·ba·do
general store la tienda la tyen·da Sunday domingo do·meen·go
laundry la lavandería la la·van·de·ree·a
market el mercado el mer·ka·do January enero e·ne·ro
pharmacy/ la farmacia la far·ma·sya February febrero fe·bre·ro
chemist March marzo mar·so
post office la oficina la o·fee·see·na April abril a·breel
de correos de ko·re·os May mayo ma·yo
supermarket el supermercado el soo·per· June junio khoo·nyo
mer·ka·do July julio khoo·lyo
© Lonely Planet Publications
292 S PA N I S H • • T r a n s p o r t www.lonelyplanet.com
Private Transport
I’d like to Quisiera kee·sye·ra I need a mechanic/tow truck.
hire a/an ... rentar ... ren·tar ... Necesito un mecánico/remolque.
4WD un cuator por oon kwa·tro por ne·se·see·to oon me·ka·nee·ko/re·mol·ke
cuatro kwa·tro Is there a garage near here?
car un coche oon ko·che ¿Hay un garaje cerca de aquí?
motorbike una moto oo·na mo·to ai oon ga·ra·khe ser·ka de a·kee
The car has broken down (in ...).
bicycle bicicleta bee·see·kle·ta El coche se se descompuso (en ...).
hitchhike pedir aventón pe·deer a·ven·ton el ko·che se des·kom·poo·so (en ...)
pickup (ute) pickup pee·kop I have a flat tire.
truck camión ka·myon Tengo una llanta ponchada.
ten·go oo·na yan·ta pon·cha·da
Where’s a gas/petrol station? I’ve run out of petrol.
¿Dónde hay una don·de ai oo·na Me quedé sin gasolina.
gasolinera? ga·so·lee·ne·ra me ke·de seen ga·so·lee·na
How much is a liter of gasoline/petrol? I‘ve had an accident.
¿Cuánto cuesta el litro kwan·to kwes·ta el lee·tro Tuve un accidente.
de gasolina? de ga·so·lee·na too·ve oon ak·see·den·te
© Lonely Planet Publications
Tikal
the ‘hh’ sound, take the ‘h’ sound Uaxactún wa·shak·toon
from ‘half’ and put it at the end of Xcaret shka·ret
ah·bahh Yaxchilán yash·chee·lan
u as ‘oo’ except at the start or end of a
word, in which case it’s like English USEFUL WORDS & PHRASES
‘w.’ Thus baktun is ‘bak·toon,’ but Spanish borrowings tend to be stressed dif-
Uaxactún is ‘wa·shak·toon’ and ahau ferently in Yucatec Maya, eg amigo (Span-
is is ‘a·haw’ ish for ‘friend’) is pronounced ‘a·mi·go’ in
x as the ‘sh’ in ‘she’; a shushing sound Spanish and ‘aa·mi·go’ in Yucatec.
You might also hear someone saying simply Where is the ...?
buenos to stand in for the full greeting; this Tu’ux yaan le ... too·’oosh yan le ...
isn’t considered as improper to Maya speak- bathroom
ers as it is for many Spanish speakers. baño ba’·nyo
road to ...
How are you? u be ti’ ... u be tee ...
Bix a beel? beesh a bail? hotel
Bix yanikech? beesh yaw·nee·kech? (less hotel o·tel
formal) doctor
OK/Well. médico me·dee·ko
Maalob. ma·lobe Comisario
Bye/See you tomorrow. Comis ko·mees
Hasta saamal. as·ta sa·mal
Goodbye. How much is ...?
Pa’atik kin bin. pa’a·teek keen been Baux ...? ba·hoosh ...?
Thank you. this one
Gracias/Dios Bo’otik. gra·see·as/dyose boe’o·teek lela’ le·la’
Yes. that one
Haa/He’ele. haa/he’e·le lelo’ le·lo’
(Maya speakers often reiterate what is said to them,
instead of saying ‘yes’; eg ‘Are you going to the store?’ expensive
‘I’m going.’) ko’o ko·’o
No. not expensive
Ma’. ma’ mix ko’oi meesh ko·’o·hi
What’s your name? pretty
Bix a k’aaba? beesh a k’aa·ba? ki’ichpam kee·’eech·pam
My name is ... I’m hungry.
In kaabae’ ... een ka·ba·e’ Wiihen. wee·hen
I understand English. It’s (very) tasty.
Kin na’atik ingles. keen na·’a·teek een·gles (Hach) Ki’. (hach) kee’
I want to drink water.
I don’t speak Maya. Tak in wukik ha’. tak een woo·keek ha’
Ma tin na’atik mayat’aani.
ma’ teen na·’a·teek ma·ya·taa·nee 1 un peel oom pail
Do you speak Spanish? 2 ka peel ka pail
Teche’, ka t’aanik wa castellano t’aan? 3 ox peel osh pail
LANGUAGE
295
Glossary
Words specific to food, restaurants and comida corrida – set meal, meal of the day
eating are listed on p63. See also the conquistador – explorer-conqueror of Latin America
Language chapter, p287. from Spain
correo, correos – post office
alux (s), aluxes (pl) – Maya ‘leprechauns,’ benevolent costera – waterfront avenue
‘little people’ criollo – a person of pure Spanish descent born in Spanish
Ángeles Verdes – ‘Green Angels;’ bilingual mechanics America
in green trucks who patrol major highways, offering cuota – toll road
breakdown assistance
ayuntamiento – municipal government; commonly seen daños a terceros – third-party car insurance
as H Ayuntamiento (Honorable Ayuntamiento) de lujo – deluxe class of bus service
DNI – Derecho para No Inmigrante; nonimmigrant fee
baluartes – bastions or bulwarks charged to all foreign tourists and business travelers
barrio – district, neighborhood visiting Mexico
billete – bank note (unlike in Spain, where it’s a ticket)
boleto – ticket (bus, train, museum etc) ejido – communal landholding, though laws now allow
sale of ejido land to outside individuals
cacique – indigenous chief; also used to describe a encomenderos – owners of Maya lands divided into
provincial warlord or strongman large estates
cafetería – literally ‘coffee-shop,’ it refers to any informal encomienda – a grant made to a conquistador, consisting
restaurant with waiter service; it is not usually a self- of labor by or tribute from a group of indigenous people;
service restaurant the conquistador was supposed to protect and convert
cajero automático – automated teller machine (ATM) them, but usually treated them as little more than slaves
camión (s), camiones (pl) – truck; bus
camioneta – pickup feria – fair or carnival, typically occurring during a
campechanos – citizens of Campeche religious holiday
campesinos – countryfolk, farm workers
casa de cambio – currency-exchange office gala terno – women’s straight, white, square-necked
caseta de larga distancia – long-distance telephone dress with an embroidered overyoke and hem, worn over
station, often shortened to caseta an underskirt, which sports an embroidered strip near the
cenote – a deep limestone sinkhole containing water bottom; fancier than a huipil and often accompanied by a
cerveza – beer hand-knitted shawl
Chac – Maya god of rain gringo/a – male/female US or Canadian visitor to Latin
chac-mool – Maya sacrificial stone sculpture America (sometimes applied to any visitor of European
chenes – name for cenotes (limestone pools) in the heritage); can be used derogatorily but more often is a
Chenes region mere statement of fact
chilangos – natives of Mexico City gruta – cave, grotto
chultún (s), chultunes (pl) – Maya cistern found at guardaequipaje – room for storing luggage (eg in a
Puuc archaeological sites south of Mérida bus terminal)
cocina – cookshop (literally ‘kitchen’), a small, basic guayabera – man’s thin fabric shirt with pockets and
restaurant usually run by one woman, often located in or appliquéd designs on the front, over the shoulders and
near a municipal market; also seen as cocina económica down the back; often worn in place of a jacket and tie
(economical kitchen) or cocina familiar (family kitchen);
see also lonchería hacendado – landowner
GLOSSARY
colectivo – literally, ‘shared,’ a car, van (VW combi, hacienda – estate; Hacienda (capitalized) is the Treasury
Ford or Chevrolet) or minibus that picks up and drops Department
off passengers along its set route; also known as taxi henequen – agave fiber used to make rope, grown
colectivo particularly around Mérida
combi – a catch-all term used for taxi, van and minibus huipil (s), huipiles (pl) – indigenous women’s sleeveless
services regardless of vehicle type white tunic, usually intricately and colorfully embroidered
© Lonely Planet Publications
296 G L O S S A R Y
machismo – maleness, masculine virility or bravura retablo – altarpiece (usually an ornate gilded, carved
malecón – waterfront boulevard wooden decoration in a church)
manzana – apple; also a city block. A supermanzana is a ría – estuary
large group of city blocks bounded by major avenues. Cancún roofcomb – a decorative stonework lattice atop a Maya
uses manzana and supermanzana numbers as addresses. pyramid or temple
mariachi – small ensemble of Mexican street musicians;
strolling mariachi bands often perform in restaurants sacbé (s), sacbeob (pl) – ceremonial limestone avenue
más o menos – more or less, somewhat or path between great Maya cities
méridanos – citizens of Mérida segunda (2a) clase – 2nd class of bus service
mestizo – also known as ladino, a person of mixed Semana Santa – Holy Week, the week from
indigenous and European blood; the word now more Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday; Mexico’s major holiday
commonly means ‘Mexican’ period
metate – flattish stone on which corn is ground with a stela (s), stelae (pl) – standing stone monument, usually
cylindrical stone roller carved
Montezuma’s revenge – Mexican version of ‘Delhi- supermercado – supermarket, ranging from a corner
belly’ or travelers’ diarrhea store to a large, US-style supermarket
mudéjar – Moorish architectural style sur – south; often seen in street names
GLOSSARY
G L O S S A R Y 297
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
GLOSSARY
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
BEHIND THE SCENES 298
Index
A Itzamkanac 228 Banco Chinchorro 50, 53-4, 134, 135
accommodations 252-4, see also Ixchel temple 87 bargaining 263
individual locations Kabah 176-7, 176 baseball 36
cabanas 124, 254 Kinich-Kakmó 190 bathrooms 267
hotels 254 Kinich-Ná 148 beaches 115
activities 52-8, 254-5, see also Kohunlich 148-50, 144 Akumal 116
individual activities Labná 178, 178 Bahía de San Francisco 118
Aguada Grande 110 Mayapán 29, 45, 179-80 Bahías de Punta Solimán 117-18
air travel Muyil 131 Cancún 72-3
INDEX
airlines 272, 275 Ox-Huadz 190 Cozumel 110
airports 272 Oxkintok 172 Isla Mujeres 85-6
tickets 272 Palenque 246-8, 247, 5, 8, 142, Paamul 115
to/from the Yucatán 271-4 144 Paraíso 238
within Yucatán 275 Río Bec 234 Playa del Carmen 98-104, 100, 6
Akumal 116-17 San Gervasio 110-11 Playa Varadero 227
alcoholic drinks 10, 11, 62, 63, see Sayil 177 Progreso 188-9
also balché Tikal, Guatemala 44, 127, 230, 251 Puerto Ceiba 238
Amatenango del Valle 245 Tohcok 225 Punta Bete 98
Angelita cenote 12, 121 Tulum 121-3, 122 Punta Holohit 206
animals 47-9, see also individual Uxmal 43, 172-5, 174, 9, 144 safe travel 72-3
animals, wildlife-watching Xcambó 189 San Felipe 206
Internet resources 46, 48 Xlapak 177-8 Tankah 118
anteaters 48, 131 Xpuhil 233 Tulum 122
archaeological sites 238 Yamil Lu’um 71 Xpu-há 116
Aguada Grande 110 Yaxchilán 249-51 Bécal 222
Balamkú 229-30 Zona Arqueológica El Rey 71 Becán 232
Becán 232 architecture bicycling 56
Bonampak 249-51 books 42 Campeche 221
books 42 Chenes style 44 Cobà 128
Calakmul 230-1 Esperanza style 42 Ek’ Balam 202
Chicanná 231-2 Maya style 42-5 tours 160
Chichén Itzá 43, 191-8, 193, 8 Puuc style 44 Tres Ríos 97
Chichén Viejo 195 Río Bec style 44 Valladolid 199
Chunchucmil 186-7 Spanish colonial style 45 within Yucatán 275-6
Cobá 127-9, 128 Toltec-Maya style 44 biosphere reserves
Dzibanché 147-50 Arrecife Catarell 109 Banco Chinchorro 50, 53-4, 134,
Dzibilchaltún 187-8 Arrecife Palancar 53, 109, 110 135
Dzibilnocac 226 art galleries, see museums & galleries Calakmul 50, 230-1
Edzná 223-4, 225, 223 arts 39-45, see also individual arts Lacantun 250
Ek’ Balam 202-3 books 44 Montes Azules 249, 250
El Castillo Real 110 Atasta Peninsula 229 Pantanos de Centla 239
El Cedral 110 ATMs 262 Ría Celestún 184-5
El Rey 71 atole 61 Ría Lagartos 50, 204
El Tabasqueño 225-6 Sian Ka’an 50, 130-1
El Tigre 228 B bird-watching 47-8, 56-7, see
highlights 19, 24, 24 Bacalar 136-8 also biosphere reserves, flamingos
Hochob 226 Bahía de San Francisco 118 Bahías de Punta Solimán 117-18
Hormiguero 234 Bahías de Punta Solimán 117-18 books 47
Internet resources 246 Balamkú 229-30 Calakmul 230
itinerary 24, 24 balché 10, 11, 63 Celestún 185
INDEX
combi travel 277 Banco Chinchorro 134, 135 deforestation 49, 51
Conkal 189 books 108 Internet resources 48, 250
conservation 49, 50-1 Cancún 73 oil exploration 26, 51
consulates 258-9 caves 117, 120, 121 exchange rates, see inside front cover
Convento de San Antonio de Padua cenotes 12, 52, 73, 120, 121, 142
190 Cozumel 52-3, 108, 109 F
Córdoba, Francisco Hernández de 84, dive shops 54 fauna, see individual animals, birds
213, 226 Isla Mujeres 87-8 fax services 266
Corozal, Belize 150 highlights 12, 25, 25 Felipe Carrillo Puerto 32, 132-3,
Corredor Arqueológico 146-50, see itinerary 25, 25 132
also Dzibanché, Kohunlich Mahahual 134 ferries, see boat travel
Cortés, Hernán 30, 105 Palancar Reef 53, 109, 110 festivals 19, 259-60
Costa Maya 134-5 Playa del Carmen 99 Carnaval 259
costs 18, see also inside front cover Puerto Morelos 95 Carnaval, Campeche 216
bus travel 277 Punta Allen 131 Carnaval, Chetumal 138
taxes 253, 265 responsible diving 54 Carnaval, Ciudad Del Carmen 228
courses 256 Tulum 121 Carnaval, Mérida 161
languages 256 Xcalak 135 ch’a chaak 11, 62-3
Cousteau, Jacques 12, 52, 106 Dos Ojos 117, 120 Día de la Candelaría 259
Cozumel 52-3, 104-15, 105, 107, 12 drinks 61-2 Día de la Independencia 259
accommodations 111-12 alcoholic 10, 11, 62, 63 Día de la Marina 205
sights 106-11 atole 61 Día de los Muertos 259, 11, 141
travel to/from 113 balché 10, 11, 63 Día de los Reyes Magos 203, 259
crafts 41-2 driving, see car travel Día de Navidad 260
credit cards 262 drugs, illegal 99, 261 Día de Nuestra Señora de
crocodiles 48, 56 Dzibanché 147-50 Guadalupe 216, 260
Cozumel 110 Dzibilchaltún 187-8 Día de Todos los Santos 259
Rancho Punta Venado 115 Dzibilnocac 226 Exposición de Altares de los
Reserva de la Biósfera Pentanos de Dzilam de Bravo 189 Muertos 161
Centla 239 Feria de San Román 216
Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an E Feria de Santiago 204-5
131 eagle rays 108, 109 Festival de Trova Yucateca 161
Río Lagartos 204 ecoparks Festival del Centro Histórico 216
cross, talking 32, 132-3 Parque Punta Sur 110 Fiesta de Flor del Jipi 222
Santuario de la Cruz Parlante 133 Tres Ríos 97 food celebrations 11, 62-3
cultural considerations 36 Xcaret 115 Posadas 260
culture 35-45, see also Maya people Xel-Há 117 Semana Santa 259, 144
Internet resources 35 economy 26 Semana Santa, Mérida 161
responsible travel 36 Edzná 223-4, 225, 223 Toh Festival 48
currency 262 Ejército Zapatista de Liberación fish 48
customs regulations 256 Nacional 239, 242 fishing 6, 57, 88, 116, 131, 204
tours 73, 160, 215 religion 37-8, 140 museums & galleries
Tres Ríos 97 Xibalbá 37, 38, 43, 140 Baluarte de San Francisco 213
Xcalak 135 Maya people 9, 18, 24, 38, 45, 245, Baluarte de San Juan 213
Kinich-Kakmó 190 10, 141, see also culture, Maya Baluarte de Santa Rosa 213
Kinich-Ná 148 civilization Centro Cultural Casa Número 6 211
kiteboarding 55, 92 language 35, 293-4 Centro Cultural Chan Santa Cruz 133
Kohunlich 148-50, 144 Mayapán Ruinas 29, 45, 179-80 Centro Cultural El Carmen 241
Kukulcán 29, 30, 45, 173, 179, 191 measures 253, see also inside front cover Chichén Itzá museum 192
medical services 283, see also health Comalcalco museum 238
L Mennonites 222, 224, 225 Fuerte Museo San José del Alto 214
Labná 178, 178 Mérida 153-71, 156-7, 4, 141 Grutas de Balankanché museum 196
Lacandón Jungle 250 accommodations 161-5 Hacienda Ochil henequen museum
Lacanjá Chansayab 250 drinking 166-7 171
Laguna Bacalar 136-8, 143 emergency 154 Laguna Bacalar fortress 137
INDEX
Laguna Colombia 110 entertainment 167 Macay 157
Laguna de Términos 26, 227 festivals 160-1 Maya Medicine Museum 241
Laguna Mayil 131 food 165-6 Museo Arqueológico de Campeche
Laguna Puerto Viejo 92 Internet access 154 213-14
Laguna Rosada 189 money 154 Museo Arqueológico del Camino
Laguna Yal-Kú 116 shopping 167 Real 222
Landa, Friar Diego de 31, 39, 105, sights 155-60 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo
183 special events 160-1 Ateneo de Yucatán 157
language 287-94 tourist offices 155 Museo de Arte Sacro 189
courses 256 tours 160 Museo de la Arquitectura Maya 211
food vocabulary 63-5 travel to/from 168-9 Museo de la Ciudad, Campeche 211
Maya languages 35, 293-4 travel within 170-1 Museo de la Ciudad, Chetumal 140
Spanish 287-92 Mérida zoo 160 Museo de la Ciudad, Mérida 158
Yucatec Maya 293-4 metric conversions, see inside front Museo de la Cultura Maya 140
Las Coloradas 204 cover Museo de la Guerra de Castas 184
legal matters 261 Mexican Revolution 33 Museo de la Isla de Cozumel 106
lesbian travelers 260 monasteries & convents Museo de San Roque 199
Cancún 80 Convento de San Antonio de Museo del Pueblo Maya 188
literature 39-40, see also books Padua 190 Museo INAH 71-2
Convento de Sisal 199 Museo Jsotz’ Levetik 245
M Oxkutzcab Franciscan mission 183 Museo Nacional de Arte Popular
Mahahual 134-5 Tizimín Franciscan monastery 203 160
malaria 283 money 18, 258, 262-3, see also inside Museo Regional de Antropología
manatees 49, 54, 138, 239 front cover 159-60
Maní 31, 183 ATMs 262 Museo y Galería de Arte Popular
mansions, see haciendas & mansions bargaining 263 213
map legend 312 costs 18, 253, 265, 277, see also Na Bolom 241
maps 262 inside front cover Palenque Site Museum 246
marine life 48 credit cards 262 Parque-Museo La Venta 236
Maya civilization, see also exchange rates, see inside front Santa Elena museum 176
archaeological sites, Maya people cover Santuario de la Virgen de Izamal
aluxes 11, 94 traveler’s checks 262 museum 190
architecture 42-5 monkeys, see howler monkeys, spider Zoh-Laguna museum 233
bloodletting 37 monkeys music 40
books 28, 29, 31, 32, 36, 39, 42 Montejo, Francisco de 30-1, 153, 155, Muyil 131
calendar 37, 43, 192 157, 179, 198, 209
cosmology 37, 140 motorcycle travel N
cranial deformation 75 rental 278 Nafta 34, 242
history 27-9, 30-2 travel to/from the Yucatán 274 Nahochín 204
Internet resources 34, 35, 38 within Yucatán 277-80 National Institute of Anthropology &
itinerary 24, 24 Museo INAH 71-2 History (INAH) 71-2
oil production 33-4, 228 Puerto Ceiba 238 San Lorenzo Zinacantán 245
Ox Bel Ha 117 Puerto Morelos 94-7 San Miguel de Cozumel 104-15, 107
Ox-Huadz 190 Punta Allen 131 accommodations 111-12
Oxkintok 172 Punta Bete 97-8 sights 106
Oxkutzcab 183, 141 Punta Garza 204 travel to/from 113
Punta Juárez 69, 90 Santa Elena 176
P Punta Laguna 130 Santuario de la Cruz Parlante 133
Paamul 115-16 Punta Sam 69, 90 Sayil 177
Pakal 246, 247 Punta Solimán 117-118 scams 120, 149
Palancar Reef 53, 109, 110 Punta Sur 87 scuba diving, see diving
Palenque 246-9 Puuc Route 177-8 Selva de Norte 49
ruins 246-8, 247, 5, 8, 142, 144 Selva Lacandón 250
panama hats 41, 167, 222 Q sharks 108, 118
Paraíso 238 Quetzalcóatl 29, 30, 45, 173, 179, 191 shopping 264-5
Parque Chankanaab 109-10, 12 Quintana Roo 66-150, 68 sisal production, see henequen
Parque Nacional Isla Contoy 91-2 production
Parque Punta Sur 110 R snorkeling 52-4
passports 271 rabies 284 Akumal 116
peoples Rancho Punta Venado 115 Bahías de Punta Solimán 118
Aztec 30 religion 37-8 Banco Chinchorro 134, 135
Chontal 238 Mennonites 225 Cancún 73
Cocomes 29, 30, 45, 155, 179 reservas de la biósfera cenotes 52, 73, 120, 121
Itzáes 29, 179, 223, 228 Banco Chinchorro 50, 53-4, 134, 135 Cozumel 108, 109
Maya 9, 18, 24, 35, 38, 45, 245, Calakmul 50, 230-1 Ek’ Balam 202
293-4, 10, 141, see also Lacantun 250 Gran Cenote 127
culture, Maya civilization Montes Azules 249, 250 Isla Mujeres 86, 87-8
Olmec 27, 236 Pantanos de Centla 239 itinerary 25, 25
Teotihuacán 27, 28, 29 Ría Celestún 184-5 Mahahual 134
Toltec 29, 191, 192, 193-4 Ría Lagartos 50, 204 Playa del Carmen 99
Xiú 29, 30, 31, 179 Sian Ka’an 50, 130-1 Puerto Morelos 95
Zapotec 27 Río Bec 234 Rancho Punta Venado 115
photography 263-4 Río Lagartos 204-5 Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an 131
cultural consideration 245, 264 Riviera Maya 94-130, 95 responsible snorkeling 54
pirates 105, 136, 209, 213 itineraries 21, 21 Tres Ríos 97
Pisté 192, 196-8 road distance chart 279 Tulum 121
planning 17-20, 258, see also robbery 257 Xcalak 135
itineraries Rose Lagoon 189 Xel-Há 117
Ruinas de Mayapán 29, 45, 179-80 soccer 36
000 Map pages Ruta Chenes 223 ancient 37
000 Photograph pages Ruta de las Iglesias 183 Spanish conquest 29-31
Ruta Puuc 177-8 Spanish language 287-92
special events 19, see also festivals San Cristóbal de Las Casas 241-2 websites, see Internet resources
spider monkeys 48, 56, 97, 130, Uxmal 175 weights 253, see also inside front
249 wildlife-watching 131, 185, 229, 241 cover
sports 36-7 train travel 276 wildlife 19, 47-9, see also individual
Stephens, John L 18, 23, 220, 225, tramping, see hiking animals, birds, plants, wildlife-
226, 246 traveler’s checks 262 watching
swimming, see beaches trekking, see hiking Internet resources 46, 48
Tres Brazos 239 wildlife-watching 56-7, 249, see
T Tres Ríos 97 also biosphere reserves, national
Tabasco 236-9, 237 Tulum 118-27, 119, 142 parks
talking cross 32, 132-3 ruins 121-3, 122 Bahías de Punta Solimán
Santuario de la Cruz Parlante 133 Tulum Corridor 94-130, 95 117
Tankah 118 itineraries 21, 21 Punta Laguna 130
taxes 263 turtles 49 Selva Lacandón 250
INDEX
Tekax 183 Akumal 116 tours 185
telephone services 265 Bahías de Punta Solimán 118 Xcalak 135
cell phones 266 Cozumel 108 windsurfing 55, 92
Templo de San Bernardino 199 Isla Mujeres 87 women travelers 269
textiles, see clothing, handicrafts Laguna de Términos 227 health 282
theft 257 Paamul 115-16 work 269-70
T’ho 153, 155, 179 Reserva de la Biósfera Pantanos de volunteer work 270
Thompson, Edward 192, 194 Centla 239
Ticul 180-2, 181 Río Lagartos 204 X
Tihosuco 184 Xel-Há 117 Xcalak 135
Tikal, Guatemala 44, 127, 230, 251 TV 253 Xcambó 189
time 267, 310-1 Xcaret 115
tipping 263 U Xel-Há 117
Tixkokob 168 Uaymitún 189 Xibalbá 37, 38, 43, 140
Tizimín 203 U’lu’um Chac Yuk Nature Reserve 234 Xiú people 29, 30, 31, 179
Tohcok 225 Uxmal 43, 172-5, 174, 9, 144 Xlapak 177-8
toilets 267 Xpu-há 116
Toltec people 29, 191, 192, 193-4 V Xpuhil Ruinas 233
tourist card 268-9 vacations 17, 260-1 Xpujil 232-4
tourist information 267-8 vaccinations 281 ruins 233
tours 160, 190, 231, 233, 236, 249 Valladolid 198-202, 200, 200, 144
Atasta Peninsula 229 vaquerías 11, 40 Y
bird-watching 160, 185, 190, 204 vegetarian travelers 62 Yamil Lu’um 71
Campeche 215-16 Vicente Guerrero 226 Yaxchilán 249-51
Cancún 73 video systems 263-4 Yoluk 204
Celestún 185 Villahermosa 236-8 Yucatán state 151-207, 152-3
cycling 160 visas 268-9, see also passports Yucatec Maya language 293-4
Isla Contoy 91-2 tourist cards 268-9
hiking 55-6, 117-18, 131, 156, volunteer work 270 Z
237-8 Zapatistas 239, 242
kayaking 73, 160, 215 W ziplining 57, 73
Palenque 248 walking, see hiking Zoh-Laguna 232, 233
Puerto Morelos 95 War of the Castes 32-3, 132, 136-7, Zona Arqueológica El Rey 71
Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an 140, 153, 184, 198 Zona Libre 150
131 Museo de la Guerra de Castas 184 zoos 160
12am 1am 2am 3am 4am 5am 6am 7am 8am 9am 10am 11am 12pm
Mon
Sun
ARCTIC
OCEAN
International
Ellesmere Is
Date Line
Queen (Can)
Elizabeth
Is (Can)
9am GREENLAND
BAFFIN SEA
Banks Is BAY Greenland
CHUKCHI BEAUFORT (Denmark)
SEA SEA (Can)
Victoria Is 11am
(Can) NORWEGIAN
SEA
Russia Alaska Baffin Is
(Can)
(US) 5am Iceland NORTH
3am 4am SEA
HUDSON
BERING BAY United
SEA LABRADOR
Canada SEA Kingdom
GULF OF
ALASKA 8am
2am 6am NORTH Ireland
ATLANTIC
7am 8.30am
OCEAN
Azores
United States (Port) Spain
Portugal
NORTH Bermuda Morocco
1am PACIFIC (UK)
Midway Is OCEAN Canary Is
(US) GULF OF (Sp)
Mexico MEXICO The Bahamas
Cuba
Haiti Mauritania
Hawaii Eastern 12pm
Mali
CARIBBEAN Caribbean Cape
(US) Guatemala Verde
SEA Islands Senegal Burkina
Nicaragua Guinea Faso
Panama Venezuela Guyana
Liberia Ghana
Galapagos Is Colombia Suriname GULF OF
EQUATOR (Ecuador) GUINEA
Ecuador
Kiribati
8am Ascension (UK)
Samoa
2.30am Peru Brazil 9am
7am
Tahiti French
Tonga Cook Is Polynesia Bolivia
(Fr) SOUTH
(NZ)
12am 2am ATLANTIC
Pitcairn Is 3.30am Easter Is Paraguay OCEAN
1am (UK) (Chile)
Chile Uruguay
New Argentina Tristan da Cunha
Zealand (UK)
Gough Is
12.45am SOUTH (UK)
Chatham Is PACIFIC
(NZ) OCEAN
12am 1am 2am 3am 4am 5am 6am 7am 8am 9am 10am 11am 12pm
12pm 1pm 2pm 3pm 4pm 5pm 6pm 7pm 8pm 9pm 10pm 11pm 12am
Mon
Sun
Severnaya Zemlya
International
(Russia)
Svalbard Zemlya Frantsa-Iosifa
Date Line
(Norway) (Russia)
Novosibirskie
KARA
Novaya Zemlya SEA LAPTEV Ostrovo (Russia)
(Russia) SEA
EAST SIBERIAN
SEA
BARENTS
SEA
Sweden 12am
1pm 2pm 7pm 9pm 11pm
Finland
Norway 10pm
3pm
4pm 5pm Russia
Latvia SEA 3am
Denmark BERING
OF
Poland Belarus OKHOTSK SEA 2am
Germany 4pm 6pm
Ukraine
France Austria Kazakhstan
Romania Mongolia
Italy Uzbekistan
4pm Kyrgyzstan North Korea
Greece Turkey Turkmenistan
China South NORTH
Tunisia MEDITERRANEAN Syria Iran Afghanistan Korea Japan PACIFIC
8pm
3.30pm 4.30pm
SEA Iraq Tibet (China) OCEAN
2pm 5pm Nepal
Algeria Pakistan 5.45 EAST
Libya Saudi pm CHINA
Egypt India
1pm Arabia 6.30 Taiwan SEA
4pm pm Northern
5.30 Myanmar Mariana
Niger Oman pm
6pm 9pm Is (US) Marshall
Chad Eritrea Yemen Thailand Is (US)
BAY OF
Sudan ARABIAN BENGAL Philippines 12am
Ethiopia SEA 5.30pm Vietnam
Nigeria Federated States
Central African 3pm Sri Lanka
Republic Palau of Micronesia Kiribati
Somalia Maldives Malaysia 11am
Congo Kenya Nauru EQUATOR
Gabon 1pm Congo Indonesia
(Zaire) Papua New SOUTH
Tanzania Guinea
6.30 East Solomon Is PACIFIC
Seychelles Timor
4pm pm OCEAN
Angola Malawi Cocos (Keeling)
Zambia Is (Aust) Vanuatu
Madagascar
Namibia Zimbabwe Mauritius Fiji
INDIAN OCEAN 9.30
Reunion
Botswana Mozambique (Fr) pm New Caledonia (Fr)
Australia 11.30
10.30 pm
South pm Norfolk Is
Africa Lord Howe (Aust)
Is (Aust)
New Zealand
Prince Edward Is TASMAN
French Southern & SEA
(S. Africa) Antarctic Territories (Fr)
SOUTHERN OCEAN
Heard &
McDonald Is
(Aust)
12pm 1pm 2pm 3pm 4pm 5pm 6pm 7pm 8pm 9pm 10pm 11pm 12am