LP Algeria (1st Edition) PDF

© Lonely Planet Publications
Contents
The Authors 11 Algiers & Around 86
History 87
Destination Algeria 13 Orientation

Information
90
91
Dangers & Annoyances 92
Getting Started 14 Sights

Activities
92
97
Walking Tour 97
Itineraries 17 Tours
Sleeping
99
99
Eating 100
Snapshot 22 Drinking
Entertainment
102
102
Getting There & Away 102
History 23 Getting Around
AROUND ALGIERS
103
104
Tipaza 104
The Culture 38 Cherchell 106
Between Tipaza & Algiers 107
Environment 60 Northeast Algeria 108

Annaba 110
Around Annaba 115
Travelling in the Constantine
Sahara 66 Around Constantine
117
122
BEFORE YOU GO 66 Batna 123
Reading Up 66 Around Batna 124
When to Go 67 Timgad 126
What to Bring 68 Sétif 128
Djemila 132
Responsible
Saharan Travel 71
Trekking Safety
ON THE GROUND
72
74
Northwest Algeria 137
Oran 139
Reaching the Sahara 74
Tlemcen 146
Types of Expedition 74 Ghazaouet 151
Routes 76
Tour Operators 78
Ghardaïa &
Saharan Rock Art 80 the Grand Ergs 153
GHARDAÏA & THE M’ZAB 155
The Discovery of Ghardaïa 155
Saharan Rock Art 80 Beni Isguen 160
The Climatic Context 81 Melika 161
Types of Rock Art 81 El-Atteuf 162
Periods of Saharan Rock Art 83 Bou Noura 162
Where to See Rock Art GRAND ERG OCCIDENTAL 162
in Algeria 83 Aïn Sefra 162
The Protection of Rock Art 84 Beni Ounif 164
Rock Art Associations 85 Béchar 164
10 CONTENTS
Taghit 165 Time 206 Tours 217

Beni Abbès 166 Toilets 206 Train 217
Adrar 167 Tourist Information 206
Timimoun 169
El-Goléa 171
Travellers with Disabilities
Visas
206
206 Health 218
GRAND ERG ORIENTAL 172 Women Travellers 207
El-Oued 172
Touggourt 175 Language 227
Around Touggourt 176 Transport 208
Ouargla 176
Hassi Messaoud 178
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Entering the Country
208
208
Glossary 238
Air 208
Tamanrasset, Djanet Land 211 Behind the Scenes 241
& the Sahara 179 Sea
Tours
212
213
TAMANRASSET &
THE ROUTE DU HOGGAR 180
GETTING AROUND 213 Index 249
In Salah 181 Air 213
Bus 214
Around In Salah
Arak
182
183 Car & Motorcycle 214 World Time Zone 254
Tamanrasset 183 Hitching 216
Local Transport 216
Around Tamanrasset
Tassili du Hoggar
188
189 Shared Taxi 216 Map Legend 256
In Guezzam 190
DJANET & THE ROUTE
DU TASSILI N’AJJER
Illizi
Around Illizi
190
191
191
Regional Map Contents
Djanet 191
Around Djanet 194
Algiers &
Tassili N’Ajjer National Park 194 Around pp88–9
Northeast
Directory 196 Northwest
Algeria p138
Algeria p109
Accommodation 196
Activities 197
Business Hours 198
Children 198
Ghardaïa & the
Climate Charts 199 Grand Ergs p154
Customs 199
Dangers & Annoyances 199
Embassies & Consulates 200
Festivals & Events 201
Food & Drink 201
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 202
Holidays 202
Tamanrasset, Djanet
Insurance 202 & the Sahara p180
Internet Access 202
Legal Matters 203
Maps 203
Money 203
Photography & Video 204
Post 204
Shopping 204
Solo Travellers 205
Telephone 205
13
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Algeria is the most fascinating country you never thought of visiting.

Off limits for decades, Algeria is again struggling to its feet, resilient
and ready to show you just why the country is becoming many travellers’
favourite North African destination. Like all countries along the southern
Mediterranean rim, Algeria has two primary drawcards: outstanding
Roman ruins and the exceptional landscapes of the Sahara. The difference
is that Algeria has them in almost embarrassing abundance.
Algeria’s catalogue of ancient Roman cities is astonishingly varied.
Tipaza, a favourite of Albert Camus, weaves among the palm trees and
down to the shores of the Mediterranean. Djemila, nestled amid the hills,
stunningly evokes northeastern Algeria’s ancient past, while Hippo Re-
gius is alive with the echoes of St Augustine. A further four Roman sites,
all in the country’s mountainous northeast, make Algeria a paradise for
the amateur archaeologist in you.
Further from the coast, you don’t have to travel too deep into the
Sahara to be swept up in its magic. The oases of the west – Taghit, Beni
Abbès and Timimoun – are surrounded by palm trees and the dunes of
the Grand Erg Occidental (Great Western Erg) and are home to glorious
mud-brick architecture. Intriguing Ghardaïa stands at the heart of the
M’Zab Valley, home to one of the world’s few remnant Ibadi Muslim
communities. Deep in the desert’s heart in Algeria’s far south, Assekrem
(the End of the World), Atakor and the Tassili du Hoggar, where the
otherworldly rock formations are the spiritual home of the Tuareg, are
the stuff of legend for even the most experienced of Saharan travellers.
Away to the remote southeast is the mythical terrain of the Tassili N’Ajjer
where superbly rendered, millennia-old rock art tells the Sahara’s story
in shades of ochre and other earth tones.
It all comes together in Algiers, a city that’s as alive as any in the
world. When deciding to include Algiers’ Casbah on its World Herit-
age list, Unesco described it as ‘one of the finest coastal sites on the
Mediterranean’ and we’re inclined to agree. Also on the northern coast
are Algeria’s most beautiful cities. Constantine is stunning. Oran, the
birthplace and home of rai, Algeria’s world-famous musical export, is an
intriguing marriage of France and Spain. And Tlemcen could easily be
one of Andalusia’s most beautiful cities were it not in Algeria.
There’s something about Algeria that has always given it the quality of an
epic and perhaps that’s why so many great travellers of the past have sought
to know it, and from St Augustine in Hippo Regius to Isabelle Eberhardt
in the oases of the Sahara, from Red Beard the pirate-king to Charles de
Foucauld the desert hermit somewhere close to the End of the World.
Algeria’s troubled recent past may have slowed the arrival of travellers
and the mere thought of Algeria can be daunting. There’s no doubting
that visiting here is a challenge. But Algeria has never lost its mystique
and armed with this book, as well as the latest updates on the security
situation in Algeria, you’ll quickly discover that there are so many world-
class places to visit in Algeria and that almost all of them are not only
safe but crying out for the visitors they so richly deserve.
There are not many destinations left in the world that still possess an
edgy cachet, that showcase landscapes of rare beauty and promise the joy
of discovering ancient sites of world significance. Algeria is such a place
and the time to visit is now.
14 lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l L i t e r a t u re 15
Getting Started OFF LIMITS

As you set about planning your Algerian itinerary, remember that uncertain security in some
parts of the country means some regions remain off limits to travellers.
Algeria can be a challenging destination and many of your pretrip For the foreseeable future, you should definitely avoid overland travel through the Kabylie region
thoughts are likely to centre around arranging a visa (see p206), check- in Algeria’s northeast. Consider flying into places such as Sétif or Annaba; many of the towns are
ing out the security situation (see p200 and the boxed text, opposite) relatively safe. The town of Bejaïa and the coastal area east to Jijel was particularly volatile and
and deciding which is the best time to visit (below). But tracking down dangerous at the time of research. For more information on the security situation in this region
books and films before leaving home is a great way to whet your appetite see the boxed text, p110. In the northwest, Mascara and Chlef should also be avoided.
for the journey ahead. Algeria is a fascinating country with a thriving In southern Algeria, concerns remain about security for travellers in some desert regions,
cultural life and landscapes of unrivalled beauty that have drawn writers which is why independent travel is forbidden in desert regions south of Ghardaïa. In practice, this
and travellers down through the centuries. means that the spectacular Saharan landscapes around Tamanrasset (p180) and Djanet (p190) can
only be visited in the company of a professional guide. For more information see the boxed
WHEN TO GO text, p181.
The best time to visit Algeria is in October and November when the skies
are clear, the temperatures are mild and, depending on end-of-summer
rains, the desert may even have a greenish tinge in places. The next best travelling in shared taxis and eating cheap. Staying in midrange accom-
alternative is from March through to early May, although there’s a higher modation and eating in decent sit-down restaurants will blow the budget
See Climate Charts (p199)
chance of sandstorms in April and, by May, temperatures are really start- out, but only to a reasonable €60 per day. If you add in car hire, a few
for more information.
ing to rise. December through to February is also a good time, although internal flights, the odd local tour and a bit of shopping, your daily spend
temperatures can be surprisingly cool and night-time temperatures in is more likely to approach €100 or more. For advice on the expected cost HOW MUCH?
the Sahara routinely drop below zero. In summer (mid-May to Septem- of accommodation, see p196. Algiers–Tamanrasset air
ber), temperatures can be unbearably hot – don’t even think of a desert The rule when it comes to money in Algeria is simple: bring cash, ticket DA14,000
expedition at this time. preferably in euros or British pounds, as ATMs that accept foreign cards Algiers–Ghardaïa bus
Apart from the weather and a sprinkling of local festivals (see the are extremely rare and credit cards and travellers cheques will rarely (if ticket DA650
boxed text, p16), the most important consideration for when to visit is ever) have a chance to leave your wallet. For more information on money
1 hour’s internet access
the holy month of Ramadan. Few countries take the month of fasting matters, see p203.
DA80-150
as seriously as Algeria does and the simple fact of closed restaurants
alone – most Algerians break the daily fast in private homes and many TRAVEL LITERATURE Tour from Tamanrasset
restaurants close for the month – should make you think seriously about The Sword and the Cross (Ian Fleming) This wonderfully readable account of the lives of DA4800-7750
avoiding travelling in Algeria for the duration. Only in five-star hotels Charles de Foucauld and Henri Laperrine is a like a journey through French historical fantasies Museum entry DA20
in Algiers are you likely to find a place to eat. For details on upcoming about the Sahara and Algeria in particular.
See also inside front
dates for Ramadan, see p202. The Conquest of the Sahara (Douglas Porch) Porch tells a rollicking, even sensationalist tale of
cover.
the often ill-fated French attempt to seize control of the Sahara and their battles with the equally
COSTS & MONEY ill-fated Tuareg.
Algeria is not the region’s most expensive destination and travellers on Sahara Unveiled (William Langeweische) One of the most carefully written narratives of modern
a tight budget could get by on €35 per day by staying in youth hostels, Saharan exploration, this fine book combines sparing prose and an epic journey that begins in Algeria.
Tangier to Tunis (Alexandre Dumas) In 1846 Alexandre Dumas was asked by the Ministry of
Public Instruction in France to travel and write his way around Algeria and the result is a fascinat-
DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT… ing window into 19th-century circumstances.
A visa firmly ensconced in your passport (p206) The Tuareg and Sahara Man (Jeremy Keenan) There is no finer academic authority on the
Algerian Tuareg than Jeremy Keenan, whose anthropological work in southern Algeria began in the
Travel insurance (p202) – accidents do happen
1960s and is updated with an enlightening return decades later.
Driving licence, car documents and appropriate car insurance (p215) if bringing your own car The Oblivion Seekers (Isabelle Eberhardt and Paul Bowles) Paul Bowles provides a biography of
Extremely warm clothes for winter (above) this most iconic of travellers as a precursor to Eberhardt’s 11 enthralling stories that vividly bring to
A universal bathplug – you’ll thank us when you emerge from the desert life late-19th- century Algeria.
The Star of Algiers (Aziz Chouaki) This fast-paced novel of cultural conflict in 1990s Algiers is set
An MP3 player – the desert can be beautiful but there are days when epic distances and against the backdrop of music and civil war, two of the driving forces of recent Algerian history.
empty horizons can do your head in
The Great War for Civilisation (Robert Fisk) This weighty tome by the doyen of Western Mid-
Mosquito repellent – that unmistakeable high-pitched whine in the ear is death to sleep in dle East correspondents includes one of the most searing and compelling studies of the Algerian
many Saharan oases civil war.
A small size-three football (soccer ball) – a great way to meet locals
INTERNET RESOURCES
For more advice on what to bring for travelling in the Sahara, see p68. 153 Club (www.the153club.org) One of the best sites for Saharan enthusiasts with a pleasing mix
of the aspirational and the practical, and plenty of Algeria-specific information.
16 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s lonelyplanet.com
TOP PICKS
Algerian Music
The following albums will provide a marvellous soundtrack to your Algerian visit; they’re widely
available throughout Europe and elsewhere.
Deb – Heart Broken (Souad Massi)
Forever King (Khaled)
Diwan (Rachid Taha)
Meli Meli (Cheb Mami)
Rai Roots (Cheikha Rimitti)
Algerian Festivals
There’s no boring time to visit Algeria, but organising your visit around one or more of the
following festivals will add an extra dimension to your trip.
Fête du tapis (March/April; Ghardaïa; p158)
Le Tafsit (end April; Tamanrasset; p186)
S’bou de Timimoun (dates vary; Timimoun; p170)
Festival National de la Chanson du Rai d’Oran (August; Oran; p144)
Sebiba (Djanet; p193)
Algerian Films
These films should give you a taste of one of Africa’s most innovative and respected film
industries (p53).
The Battle of Algiers (directed by Gillo Pontecorvo; 1966)
Bab el-Oued (directed by Merzak Allouache; 1994)
Chronicle of the Years of Embers (directed by Mohamed Lakhdar-Hamina; 1975)
Barakat! (directed by Djamila Sahraoui; 2006)
Days of Glory (directed by Rachid Bouchareb; 2006)
Algeria.com (www.algeria.com) At first glance a little light-on for information, but its range of
topics (tourism, news, business and culture) is hard to beat.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Includes background information on Algeria with links to
travellers’ reports on visiting the country.
Sahara Overland (www.sahara-overland.com) Companion to the excellent desert guidebook of
the same name with up-to-date travel reports and news.
Wanadoo – Algérie (www.wanadoo.dz in French) A multipurpose French-language portal that
takes a contemporary and tech-savvy look at Algerian culture from writers and traditional costumes
to the latest news.
Yakeo (www.yakeo.com/fr/algerie/) One of the most extensive listings of (mostly French-
language) links to Algerian news, music and sport sites.
17
Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTES
THE BEST OF THE COAST Two Weeks/Tlemcen to Annaba
Travelling along Algeria’s Mediterranean coastline is like a journey
through the Algerian soul, with all the clamour, historical influences
and home-grown creativity on show. There’s no better place to start than
Tlemcen (p146) with its touch of Andalusia and the Almoravid twist that
is Tlemcen’s trademark. On no account miss the Grand Mosque (p148) and
the Mosque & Tomb of Sidi Boumediene (p149). Just up the road, Oran (p139)
suggests a Spanish aesthetic grafted onto Algerian soil, but with a French
ambience and an irresistible soundtrack of rai music that began in Oran.
You could stop off in Cherchell (p106) and Tipaza (p104) as you head for
Algiers, but most people visit these as a day trip from the capital. Algiers,
(p87) the bustling white capital, can be overwhelming. Fly to evocative
Constantine (p117) and use it as a base for visiting the Roman cities of
Timgad (p126) and Djemila (p132). Annaba (p110) is one of Algeria’s most
agreeable cities, not least because it boasts Hippo Regius (p113).
Annaba
This route covers
Algiers
Cherchell
Constantine
around 820km
Tipaza Djemila
Oran by road, plus the
Timgad
Tlemcen flight from Algiers
to Constantine –
the flight avoids
the roads east of
Algiers where
the security
situation can be
unpredictable.
18 I T I N E R A R I E S • • C l a s s i c R o u t e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d 19
DEEP INTO THE SAHARA Three Weeks/Algiers to Tassili N’Ajjer National Park
Algiers (p87) has long been one of the most important gateways into the
interior of Africa and it can turn your head for as long as you let it, but
ROADS LESS TRAVELLED
you’ve a long journey ahead of you. You could fly to Tamanrasset or
Djanet (and you should do so for the return journey), but travelling the THE OASES OF THE WEST Two to Three Weeks/Oran to Ghardaïa
first leg of the Trans-Saharan Hwy is one of Africa’s great road trips. By All great desert journeys begin beyond the Sahara’s borders in your last
the time you reach the five oasis towns that make up Ghardaïa (p155), taste of civilisation before entering the wilderness. There are no more
you’re already deep into the northern Sahara. Take the opportunity to civilised cities in Algeria than Oran (p139) and Tlemcen (p146). After
explore the town itself, but the real fascination here lies in the oases of crossing the High Plateaus, pause at Aïn Sefra (p162), one of the most
the M’Zab, home to one of Islam’s smallest minorities, the Mozabites (see agreeable oasis towns of the northern Algerian Sahara. It shouldn’t be
the boxed text, p160) who are Ibadi Muslims (see the boxed text, p48). too difficult to avoid the fate of Isabelle Eberhardt (see the boxed text,
You get a real sense of this community at Beni Isguen (p160) which is sur- p163), that great 19th-century traveller who drowned here in 1904. The
rounded by ramparts. Melika (p161) offers splendid views, while El-Atteuf road winds through the western reaches of the Saharan Atlas and then
(p162) is the oldest of the M’Zab villages. The dune-surrounded town of down around the silent gravitas of the Grand Erg Occidental (p162), one of
In Salah (p181) is another convenient place to break up the journey, be- the great sand seas of the Sahara. There are few more evocative Saharan
fore pushing on to Tamanrasset (p183). From here, the excursions into the villages on the edge of a sand sea than little Taghit (p165) – the dune-
wonderful world of the Ahaggar are endless, with Atakor (p188), Assekrem fringed oasis town you always imagined as a child. Beni Abbès (p166) is
(p188) and the Tassili du Hoggar (p189) some of the most extraordinary equally beautiful. As magical as these places are, nothing quite prepares
vistas anywhere in the Sahara. If you time it right, catch the weekly flight you for Timimoun (p169), which would be many travellers’ favourite oasis
to the often-sleepy, sometimes overrun oasis town of Djanet (p191). The town in all the Sahara (if they made it this far) and which combines
Tassili N’Ajjer National Park (p194) – the world’s most astonishing open-air abandoned villages, an escarpment perch and sand dunes. It’s the sort of
gallery of millennia-old rock art (p80) – is close by and you should spend place to relax and soak up the silence for a few days. If you’ve an extra
as much time as you have exploring it. week up your sleeve, you could make a dash down the Route du Hoggar
to In Salah (p181) and the rarely visited Tassili d’Immidir (p182). Most of you
will, however, be more than satisfied to complete a partial circuit of the
southern Grand Erg Occidental and on into the oasis towns of the M’Zab
Algiers (p160) and Ghardaïa (p155) .
From Algiers to You can make the
Tamanrasset is just entire journey
under 2000km – (1715km if you
ideally take a Oran
don’t visit the
week so you can Tassili d’Immidir,
Ghardaïa Tlemcen
break up Algeria’s Beni Isguen,
Melika & El-Atteuf
almost 2900km if
longest journey. Aïn you do) by public
Sefra Ghardaïa
The excursions M'Zab transport (mostly
from both Taman- Taghit
Grand Erg
Occidental
bus, with an
rasset and Djanet Beni Abbès occasional shared
will require an In Salah Timimoun
taxi). If you stay
organised tour longer in the oasis
using a mixture of Tassili d'Immidir towns, you easily
Djanet In Salah
4WD and walking. add a week to
Assekrem u Tassili N’Ajjer
Flying between ssili d National Park your journey.
Ta oggar
H
Atakor
Tamanrasset and Tamanrasset
Djanet is essential.
20 I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s 21
EASTERN TRAILS Two to Three Weeks/Ghardaïa to Tassili N’Ajjer National Park

Ghardaïa (p155) and the oasis towns of the M’Zab (p160) are fascinating in
their own right and are the starting point of many Saharan expeditions,
TAILORED TRIPS
but a less-frequented and very intriguing road to take from there is the
one that heads east. Ouargla (p176) is a moderately interesting town and ROMAN ALGERIA
Touggourt (p175) won’t win any beauty contests, but the latter is central There’s nothing Roman about modern Algiers (p87), apart from the Na-
to the spirit of modern Saharan exploration – it was here that the first tional Museum of Antiquities (p96) and the fact that Romans took the town
motorised crossing of the Sahara to Timbuktu began in 1922. Touggourt in AD 146 and held it for almost four centuries. However, it provides the
also makes a good base for visiting the ruined mud villages of Temac- ideal base for visiting the charming last vestiges of Roman Tipaza (p104),
ine (p176), which has a ksar (castle; fortified stronghold), and Tamelhat which was a favourite of that great Franco-Algerian writer Albert Camus
(p176). The road east passes amid the dunes of the Grand Erg Oriental and which meanders amid the pine trees down to the beach. Cherchell
(p172) to El-Oued (p172), the ‘Town of a Thousand Domes’ and one that (p106) doesn’t quite have Tipaza’s enchanted air, but even Tipaza plays
sees far fewer travellers than it deserves. Returning the way you came, second fiddle to Djemila (p132), one of Algeria’s
leave the main road south of Touggourt and pass through the oil-service most appealing drawcards and one of the most Algiers Tiddis
Hippo Regius
town of Hassi Messaoud (p178), whereafter a long, lonely road with almost beautiful extant Roman cities in Africa. The Cherchell
Tipaza Lambèse
Timgad
no public transport bisects the Grand Erg Oriental and finally leaves you setting among the Petit Kabylie hills and the
Djemila
in Illizi (p191). Deliciously remote, Illizi is for those who love the desert well preserved state of the ruins make this the
but without the crowds and who love the possibilities inherent in survey- premier Roman site in Algeria. Timgad (p126)
ing the empty horizons. Short excursions are possible to the impressive also makes it easy to imagine a lively and pros-
rock-art site of Tamdjert (p191), but true desert aficionados will want to perous Roman city, while the ruins of Lambèse
set out to cross the northern Tassili N’Ajjer en route to Djanet (p191). Here (p125) scattered around the village of Tazoult
you’ll rejoin the tourist trail, but after so long off the beaten track you require a lot more imagination. Tiddis (p122)
may welcome the company. The extraordinary rock art and twisted rock is similarly modest but not-to-be-missed if
formations of the Tassili N’Ajjer National Park (p194) are your reward for one Roman ruins are your thing, while Hippo Regius
of the most challenging but worthwhile Algerian journeys. (p113) is Djemila’s rival for the title of Algeria’s
most spectacular Roman site, not to mention
You’ll need your a place forever associated with the spirit of St
own vehicle to Augustine (see the boxed text, p113).
travel south of
Hassi Messaoud UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES
The gritty, labyrinthine and quintessentially Algerian Casbah in Algiers
and you must (p93) is the most recent addition to Unesco’s list of World Heritage
travel with a sites in Algeria; it’s a worthy member of what is an exceptional group
El-Oued
guide and an Touggourt
of signature Algerian attractions. Tipaza (p104) has also charmed its way
organised expedi- Ghardaïa
Temacine
Tamelhat
onto the list and there was no way that the doyens of the world’s most
M'Zab
Hassi Messaoud important cultural sites could resist Timgad (p126) and Djemila (p132) –
tion from Illizi to Ouargla
Grand Erg Roman Algeria clearly caught the eye when Unesco sat down to revise
Djanet and into Oriental
its catalogue in 1982. In the same year, the incomparable rock-art sites
the Tassili N’Ajjer and extraordinary natural beauty of the Tassili N’Ajjer National Park (p194)
National Park. were inscribed on the list. Few places in the Sahara can quite match the
This route covers Tassili N’Ajjer for its exquisite rock art that
Illizi tells the strangely compelling story of the Sa- Algiers
around 2000km. hara’s journey from green and pleasant land Tipaza
Djemila
Tamdjert Al-Qal’a of
Timgad
to the world’s largest desert. The M’Zab Valley Beni Hammad
Djanet
Tassili N’Ajjer (p155) similarly tells a strange story of survival
National Park
and isolation, home as it is to one of the last M’Zab
Valley
remaining communities of Ibadi Muslims (see
the boxed text, p48) anywhere in the world.
Al-Qal’a of Beni Hammad, the ruined 11th-century
seat of the Hammamid emirs, rounds out the
list, although the security situation meant that Tassili N’Ajjer
National Park
we were unable to visit this time around.
22
Snapshot
Peace and prosperity, that’s all Algerians ask for. Having not had a lot of
either for the last 60 years, it’s scarcely surprising that these are the two
topics that dominate most conversations in Algeria.
For a start, one generation of Algerians is still waiting to hear an apol-
ogy from France for the estimated one million Algerians who died during
the 1954–62 Algerian War of Independence. They’ve been waiting a long
time and aren’t exactly holding their breath, but many still live in hope.
As bitter as the memories are, looking longingly out across the water
towards France is something of a national pastime. So many Algerian
FAST FACTS immigrants have made their homes in France (and so many more would
GDP per capita: US$6603
like to) that the old enemy still holds their attention, with every Algerian
desperate for France to take notice in return.
Unemployment: 25% Meanwhile, the next generation of Algerians with its own recent mem-
Inflation: 3% ories of war is hoping against hope that the relative peace of recent years
Life expectancy at birth: will hold. Scarred by the terror that rained down upon them from all
73.26 years (men 71.68; sides during the 1990s, most Algerians you meet will express misgivings
women 74.92) about the 2005 amnesty law, even as they proudly tell you that they were
among the 97% of Algerians who voted in favour. Yes, criminals have
Oil production: 1.373 walked free, but for most Algerians that’s a necessary evil to help the
million barrels per day war recede further into history with every passing day. A resumption of
Adult/youth literacy rate: isolated attacks in 2006 and the perennially simmering conflict with the
69.9/90.1% Berber (Amazigh) people of the Kabylie, , and the April 2007 Al-Qaeda
Population: 33 million attacks nonetheless ensure that Algerians can’t imagine relaxing for some
time yet.
Population under 15/over
As the thriving Algerian music, film and literature scenes attest, Alge-
65: 30.4/4.5%
rians are some of North Africa’s most imaginative and creative people if
Doctors per 100,000 given the chance and that chance is all that most Algerians ask for. What’s
people: 113 (UK: 164) the point in having an education or staying in Algeria if there aren’t
Under-five mortality rate nearly enough jobs to go around, most Algerians ask. What’s the point
per 1000 live births: 40 of democracy if the best option is President Bouteflika, they wonder. And
(1970: 220) just what is the government so afraid of that they have to crack down on
media freedom, causing Algerians to tune in to satellite channels beamed
in from elsewhere, they question. What is the good of oil wealth if life
never gets any better, they plead.
For the most part, however, they’ve become tired of asking the same
questions over and over again. The cynicism, despair and social dis-
location sweeping the country’s young do not bode well for Algeria’s
immediate future.
Algerians are desperate for good news, but it’s hard to see from where
such good tidings could come. From the banal (Algeria’s much-loved
and once-successful national football team seems to have lost the art
of winning) to the bleak (the Salafist Group for Call and Combat, the
GSPC, changed its name to Al-Qaeda in January 2007), Algerians just
can’t take a trick.
The only consolation is that if the travails of Algeria’s recent history
have taught Algerians one thing, it is the art of survival.
11
The Authors
ANTHONY HAM Coordinating Author
Anthony’s first encounter with Algeria was as a refugee lawyer in Australia in
the 1990s when he worked on behalf of Algerian and other asylum seekers.
While working as a lawyer he obtained a Masters degree in Middle Eastern
politics. His second encounter came in 2001 when he (illegally) walked across
the Algerian border from an isolated corner of the Libyan Sahara and back
again. He has since returned, both legally and illegally. Now a full-time writer
and photographer based in Madrid, Anthony has written Lonely Planet’s Libya
and the Mauritania, Mali and Niger chapters of West Africa, as well as contribut-
ing to Morocco and Tunisia. Whenever he can, he heads for the Sahara.
The Coordinating Author’s Favourite Trip

I love the uproar and the unspoken secrets of the Algiers
Oran Algiers
Casbah (p93) and rai rhythms of Oran (p139). But all the while
I’m dreaming of the Sahara and as the bus rambles out across
the High Plateaus, I can feel my spirits lift. From Taghit (p165) Taghit Grand Erg
Occidental
I can look out across the sands of the Grand Erg Occidental Beni Timimoun
Abbès
(p162). Beni Abbès (p166) could keep me detained for days, as Tassili N'Ajjer
National Park
could Timimoun (p169). Any place with a name like Assekrem
(‘the End of the World’; p188) is my sort of place and I’d spend Djanet
Assekrem
as much time as I had in the Tassili du Hoggar (p189). I couldn’t
Tassili de
leave Algeria without visiting Djanet (p191) and the utterly Hoggar
compelling rock art of the Tassili N’Ajjer National Park (p194).
NANA LUCKHAM Ghardaïa, Tamanrasset, Directory & Transport

Nana was born in Tanzania to a Ghanaian mother and English father. Childhood
in England followed, punctuated with periods in Ghana, Zimbabwe, Australia
and France. After a degree in French and history and a Masters in international
relations, Nana headed off solo to see the world, also working as a press officer
for the United Nations. She has spent the past couple of years as a freelance
writer based in London, travelling in and writing about Africa. She has con-
tributed to numerous publications including guides to Kenya and West Africa
and Lonely Planet’s Africa and Southern Africa books. She jumped at the chance
to explore southern Algeria, where she began a love affair with the Sahara.
LONELY PLANET AUTHORS

Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are independent,
dedicated travellers. They don’t research using just the internet or phone, and they don’t take
freebies in exchange for positive coverage. They travel widely, to all the popular spots and off
the beaten track. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafés, bars, galleries,
palaces, museums and more – and they take pride in getting all the details right, and telling it
how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.
12 T H E A U T H O R S lonelyplanet.com
ANTHONY SATTIN Algiers, Northeast & Northwest Algeria

Since his first visit as a teenager, Anthony has spent much of his adult life
travelling around and writing about North Africa and the Middle East. He
is the author of several highly acclaimed books about Africa, including The
Pharaoh’s Shadow, in which he searched for Egypt’s surviving ancient culture,
and he edited Lonely Planet’s A House Somewhere: Tales of Life Abroad. His
most recent book, The Gates of Africa, tells the history of early exploration
in Africa and the search for Timbuktu. Now based in London, he is a regular
contributor to the Sunday Times and Conde Nast Traveller.
CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS
Jane Cornwell wrote the rai music boxed text in the Culture chapter. Australian-born, UK-based Jane
writes on world music and arts for a variety of publications including the Telegraph, the Evening Standard
and the Australian. Her fascination with the rai music of Algeria began when she attended the 1997
Khaled concert at London’s Astoria and witnessed a spectacle involving flashing lights, loud music,
and bare-chested men holding the Algerian flag aloft and/or storming the stage to try to touch the
hem of their hero’s trousers. Jane frequently travels to and writes about North Africa.
Zahia Hafs wrote the hittistes boxed text in the Culture chapter, the Shanghai Blue boxed text in the
Algiers chapter and the taxieurs boxed text in the Transport chapter. Of Kabylian descent, Zahia was
born and raised in Paris. After few years at the UN in New York, she joined a press agency in Paris be-
fore setting up the French office of Lonely Planet. A decade later, she created her own little publishing
company, Jalan Publications. Zahia discovered Algiers in 2004. Together with artist Elsie Herberstein,
she published, in 2005, a book about the white city, Alger: Simples Confidences.
You can buy, download and

print individual chapters from
this guidebook.
Get Algeria chapters>
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
23
History
Although Algerians have always been the mainstay of the story that is
Algerian history, it was the great empires of the Mediterranean – the
Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines and Ottoman Turks – the armies of
Islam from the east and finally the French who wrote the script. It is only
since the second half of the 20th century that Algerians have been given
a chance to make history for themselves.
THE GREEN SAHARA

Hundreds of millions of years ago, the Sahara was covered by expansive
inland seas. Tens of millions of years ago, the Sahara was a desert larger
than it is today. When the Sahara again turned green tens of thousands
of years ago, and Europe shivered under the Ice Age, the Sahara became
home to lakes and forests and a pleasant Mediterranean climate. Per-
haps drawn by this idyllic climate, two distinct races appeared in North
Africa between about 15,000 and 10,000 BC: the Oranian and then the Archaeological evidence
Capsian (the former named after Oran in Algeria and the latter after of human habitation in
Qafsah – ancient Capsa – in Tunisia). Their integration with indigenous Algeria has been dated
peoples resulted in the spread of Neolithic (New Stone Age) culture and back as far as 200,000
the introduction of farming techniques. The earliest evidence of lasting BC, and some scholars
or semipermanent settlements in Algeria dates from this time. believe that the presence
Rock paintings and carvings in the Tassili N’Ajjer National Park (p194) of Homo erectus goes
and elsewhere (see p83) in Algeria, and across the borders in neighbour- back further still.
ing Libya and Niger, are the greatest source of knowledge about this time
when the Sahara was one of the nicest places to live in all the world. For
more information on the Sahara’s climatic periods, see p81.
It is from these Neolithic peoples that the Berbers (the indigenous
peoples of North Africa; for more information see p40) are thought to de-
scend. Taking into consideration regional variations and the lack of hard
evidence, they appear to have been predominantly nomadic pastoralists,
although they continued to hunt and occasionally farm. By the time of
contact with the first of the outside civilisations to arrive from the east,
the Phoenicians, these local tribes were already well established.
THE PHOENICIAN FOOTHOLD

The strategically located North African coast attracted the attention of
the competing seagoing powers of Phoenicia and Greece, and the area’s
fortunes became inextricably linked to those of its conquerors.
The Phoenicians first came cruising the North African coast around
1000 BC in search of staging posts for the lucrative trade in raw metals
from Spain. These ports remained largely undeveloped and little was
done to exploit the interior of the continent. From the 7th century BC
settlements were established all along the southern rim of the Mediter-
ranean, including at Hippo Regius (in Annaba; p113), Saldae (in Bejaia)
and Cesare (in what was formerly Iol, now Cherchell; p106) in Algeria.
The foundation of the major settlement of Carthage is traditionally
given as 814 BC. Long politically dependent on the mother culture in
TIMELINE 200,000 BC 15,000–10,000 BC

The first sign of human habitation in Algeria The Oranian and Capsian people appear in North Africa
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Tyre (in modern Lebanon), Carthage eventually emerged as an inde- Over the next 50 years, a trickle of Roman settlers moved in, and, after
pendent, commercial empire partly because Tyre came under increasing Julius Caesar crushed the last Numidian king, Juba I, in 46 BC, more
pressure from the Babylonians, but largely in reaction to Greek attacks on organised state expansion got underway, fuelled by the realisation that
Carthage launched from Sicily. By the 6th century BC, the Phoenicians North Africa could become the expanding empire’s breadbasket.
had established a settlement at Tipaza (p104), with further ports and When Bocchus II of Mauretania died in 33 BC, bequeathing his king-
Library of Congress – market towns following at Hippo Regius and Ruiscade (now Skikda). dom to Rome, Augustus fostered local rule by installing Juba II (a re- Until the end of the 1st
Country Studies (http:// By the 4th century BC, Carthage controlled the North African coast nowned scholar married to the daughter of Cleopatra and Mark Antony). century AD, Rome’s North
lcweb2.loc.gov/frd from Tripolitania (northwestern Libya) to the Atlantic and although the After the murder of Juba’s son, Ptolemy, in about AD 40, the kingdom African colonies produced
/cs/dztoc.html) provides Algerian ports were important, the real power lay in Carthage. Indeed, was split into two provinces – Mauretania Caesariensis, with its capital in one million tonnes of
a detailed overview the ongoing viability of Carthaginian Algeria depended very much on Caesarea (in modern Algeria), and Mauretania Tingitana, with its capital wheat every year, of
of Algerian history in events in Carthage and beyond. The Carthaginians did develop the hin- at Tingis (Tangier). which a quarter was
manageable, bite-sized terland, but this extended little beyond the mountains shadowing the From this time until the decline of Rome in the 4th century AD, Al- exported to Rome. By the
portions. Algerian coast. Always, the primary Carthaginian concern was maintain- geria proved a stable and integral part of the empire. Agriculture was all 2nd century, the levels of
ing a safe chain of ports and guarding trade routes. important, and by the 1st century AD, Africa was supplying more than olive oil production and
The Carthaginians are credited with teaching the Numidians and Mauri 60% of the empire’s grain requirements. From African ports, too, came export reached similar
(who were later called Berbers) advanced agricultural methods. For the the majority of the wild animals used in amphitheatre shows, as well levels.
most part, however, the Carthaginians uprooted the local tribes and forced as gold, olive oil, slaves, ivory, ostrich plumes and garum (a fish-sauce
them into the desert and mountain hinterland. Trade links between the delicacy in Ancient Rome).
Carthaginians and the small handful of Berber states grew in importance, By the middle of the second century, Roman veterans had founded
but Carthage was not averse to demanding tributes and forcibly recruiting settlements at Tipasa (now Tipaza; p104), Cuicul (Djemila; p132), Tha-
Berber conscripts for their massive army. Berbers made up the largest mugadi (Timgad; p126) and Sitifis (Sétif; p128).
single group in the Carthaginian army in the 4th century BC. The period of Roman rule witnessed increasing urbanisation and pros-
The rise of the Roman Empire saw the Carthaginians and Romans perity in northern Algeria. The Roman presence saw some Berbers prosper.
clash in Sicily, which lead to the Punic Wars and, ultimately, the down- Some were granted Roman citizenship and many prominent Roman citi-
fall of Carthage. The first of the Punic Wars lasted from 263 to 241 BC, zens were of Algerian origin; it was these wealthy locals who donated the
during which the Carthaginians lost numerous naval battles and finally monumental public buildings that graced the Roman cities of the region.
accepted Roman terms and abandoned Sicily, Sardinia and Corsica. The evidence of their patronage is particularly in evidence at Djemila.
Carthage consolidated its position in Africa but Roman armies landed at At the same time, Roman encroachment created massive upheaval for
Utica (Tunisia) in 204 BC. Carthage capitulated and paid an enormous the Berber tribes, with many losing agricultural lands and former au-
price, giving up its fleet and overseas territories. tonomy. Berber uprisings were frequent. In response, the emperor Trajan
With Carthage weakened by the failure of its overseas conquests, (r AD 98–117) built a line of forts surrounding the Massif de Aurés and
Berber kingdoms grew in power. These included Numidia, which encom- Nemencha mountains and from Vescera (modern Biskra) to Ad Majores
passed much of northeastern Algeria, where the powerful King Massi- (Hennchir Besseriani, southeast of Biskra) to mark out the southern
nissa held sway from his capital at Cirta Regia (modern Constantine) in limits of Roman rule. The southernmost point in Roman Algeria was at
the 2nd century BC. Castellum Dimmidi (modern Messaad, southwest of Biskra). Although
When the Romans Carthage hung on, despite incessant threats from Massinissa. In 149 it would later do so, Roman rule in the 2nd century did not extend west
defeated Carthage, they BC, during the Third Punic War, the Roman army again landed in Utica, beyond Sitifis (modern Sétif).
were so afraid of the laid siege to Carthage and then overran the city in 146. It is unlikely that With the spread of Christianity following the conversion of the em-
Carthaginians returning the Berbers mourned Carthage’s demise. In the meantime, in 148 BC, peror Constantine in AD 313, many of the Roman and Berber inhabitants
to power that the city King Massinissa died and the Berber kingdoms fell into disarray. embraced the new religion. Doctrinal schisms later gave prominence to
was totally destroyed, one of the most famous figures of the early church, St Augustine (see the
sprinkled with salt as ROMAN ALGERIA boxed text, p113), who became Bishop of Hippo Regius.
a symbol and damned Rome quickly brought Carthage under its control and by 64 BC the whole By the 4th century, tribal rebellion was endemic across the region, a
forever. of northern Libya was in Roman hands. Roman attention turned to the sign that the end was near for Roman Algeria.
west when the Numidian ruler Jugurtha, Massinissa’s grandson, mas-
sacred a number of Romans who were helping a Roman ally, Adherbal, THE VANDALS & BYZANTINES
defend the town of Cirta Regia. Jugurtha managed to resist several at- In AD 429, king Gaeseric (or Genseric), who had been busy marauding
tempts by Rome to uproot him, but he was finally betrayed by Bocchus in southern Spain, decided to take the entire Vandal people (about 80,000
I, a Mauretanian king, in 105 BC. The boundaries of the Roman colony men, women and children) across to Africa, in one of the largest-scale
were extended and settlers (mostly veterans) were given land in the area. mass migrations in history. By 430, Gaeseric had reached the gates of
4500–3000 BC 1000 BC 814 BC 263–241 BC

The last regular rain falls in the Sahara whereafter it becomes a The Phoenicians arrive along the Algerian coast The Phoenicians’ North African capital is founded at Carthage The First Punic War between the Romans and Phoenicians
desert
26 H I S T O R Y • • T h e A r r i v a l o f I s l a m lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • B e r b e r D y n a s t i e s 27
Hippo Regius – St Augustine died during the ensuing siege. Much of With the shift of the caliphate from the Umayyads in Damascus to the
northeastern Algeria was soon in the Vandals’ possession and by the Abbasids in Baghdad in 750, the Muslim west (North Africa and Spain)
middle of the century Gaeseric’s ships were in control of much of the split from the east. Three major Islamic kingdoms finally emerged in
western Mediterranean. Rome was all but a spent force. North Africa: the Idrissids in Fès, the Aghlabids in Kairouan and the
The Vandals confiscated large amounts of property and their exploita- Rustamids in Tahart in Algeria.
tive policies accelerated North Africa’s economic decline. The Vandals, Abd al-Rahman ibn Rustum and his elected successors ruled a vast
more adept at pillage and overseas conquests than in administering their swathe of central and northern Algeria from Tahirt, southwest of Algiers,
colonies, fortified themselves in armed camps and the outlying areas from 761 until 909. One of history’s few examples of Kharijite or Ibadi
fell once again under the rule of tribal chieftains. The Berbers became rule (see the boxed text, p48), the Rustamids were also some of the most
increasingly rebellious and, as the Vandals recoiled, small local kingdoms enlightened Islamic rulers of Algerian history, renowned for their pa- A Traveller’s History of
sprang up. tronage for the arts and scholarship in mathematics and astronomy, and North Africa by Barnaby
The Byzantine emperor Justinian, based in Constantinople (modern for their justice and lack of corruption. Their enlightened ideals didn’t Rogerson is history
Istanbul), had in the meantime revived the eastern half of the Roman extend to forming a permanent army and they were easily swept away by made accessible and an
Empire and had similar plans for the lost western territories. His general the more powerful Shiite Fatimids. Finding many supporters among the ideal companion to your
Belisarius defeated the Vandals in 533. With Byzantine control limited to Kabylie Berbers, the Fatimids defeated the Aghlabids before marching on Algerian visit.
coastal cities and a few hinterland towns such as Timgad, Berber rebel- Egypt and founding Cairo in 972.
lions in the hinterland reduced the remainder of Algeria to anarchy and Before leaving for Egypt, however, the Fatimids entrusted their North
the potential prosperity of the provinces was squandered. Byzantine rule African territory (Ifriqiyya, or roughly modern Tunisia and parts of Al-
was deeply unpopular, not least because taxes were increased dramati- geria and Libya) to the rule of the Berber Zirids (972–1148) who founded
cally in order to pay for the colony’s military upkeep while the cities were Algiers and made Algeria the centre of regional power almost for the first
left to decay. time in history. Bejaia also became one of the most important ports in
North Africa. However, like the Berber Hammadids (1011–1151), their
THE ARRIVAL OF ISLAM neighbours to the west, the Zirids were unable to resist pressure from
With tenuous Byzantine control over Algeria restricted to a few poorly within for religious orthodoxy and officially returned to Sunnism in open
The Cambridge Illustrated
defended coastal strongholds, the Arab horsemen under the command of defiance of the Fatimids in Cairo.
History of the Islamic
Amr ibn al-As swept all before them as they made their way across North The reply from Cairo was devastating: the Bani Hilal and Bani Salim
World by Ira M Lapidus
Africa after having taken Egypt in 640. However, it was not until Uqba (also known as the Bani Sulaim) tribes of Upper Egypt and the Arabian
and Francis Robinson
bin Nafi al-Fihri began his campaign of conquest that the full military Peninsula were encouraged to invade the Maghreb, and over the fol-
is comprehensive and
force of Islam was brought to bear on North Africa. lowing century North Africa was slowly reduced to ruins. The Zirids
beautifully illustrated,
For three years from 669 he swept across the top of the continent, managed to hang on to a few coastal cities until 1148, while the Ham-
and contains references
establishing Islam’s first great city in the Maghreb, Al-Qayrawan (Kair- madids retreated to the coastal town of Bejaia, but northern Algeria had
to Algeria.
ouan in modern Tunisia). With an army of Arab cavalry and Islamised effectively been Arabised.
Berber infantry, he marched into the Atlas and is said to have reached
the Atlantic. By 698, the last remnants of Byzantine rule had disappeared BERBER DYNASTIES
and by 712 the entire region from Andalusia to the Levant came under As Idrissid power in Morocco expired, a new force emerged from the
the purview of the Umayyad caliphs (r 661–750) of Damascus. Sahara. Inspired by a Quranic teacher, Abdallah bin Yasin, the Sanh-
Abu al-Muhajir Dina, Uqba’s successor, cemented Islamic rule in Al- adja confederation of various Berber tribes began to wage wars through-
geria, converting large numbers of Christian Berbers, especially around out the southern and central Sahara in a bid to retain control over
Tlemcen, Umayyad governors based in Al-Qayrawan administered east- trans-Saharan trade routes that were under pressure from the Zenata
ern Algeria, with less rigorous control to the west. Berbers in the north. The Sanhadja were known as ‘the veiled ones’ (al-
Despite the rapid success enjoyed by the forces of Islam, the social char- mulathamin) because of their dress, and later as the ‘people of the fortress’ (al-
acter of Algeria remained overwhelmingly Berber. While largely accepting murabitin) – the Almoravids. In 1062 their leader, Youssef bin Tachfin,
the arrival of the new religion, the Berber tribes resisted the Arabisation founded Marrakech as his capital and led troops on a march of conquest
of the region. Although Arab rule flourished in coastal areas, the enmity that, at its height, saw a unified empire stretching from Senegal in Africa
between the Berbers (who saw their rulers as arrogant and brutal) and the to Zaragoza in northern Spain and reaching east as far as Algiers.
Arabs (who scorned the Berbers as barbarians) ensured that rebellions Almoravid rule brought a measure of prosperity to the region and
plagued much of Algeria’s hinterland. A mass rebellion, in reaction to the prompted a flourishing of the arts in Andalusia and elsewhere. It was
tyrannical behaviour of the occupying troops and inspired by the Muslim during Almoravid rule that the Grand Mosque of Tlemcen (p148) was
heresy of Kharijism (see the boxed text, p48), set out from Morocco in 740 built; it would later be used as a prototype for the Grand Mosque of
and conquered the Umayyad armies west of Al-Qayrawan. Córdoba.
148 BC 146 BC 46 BC Mid-2nd century AD

Massinissa, king of the Numidians (Berbers), dies The Romans defeat and destroy Carthage, bringing Phoenician rule Juba I, the last of the Numidian kings, is defeated by the Romans Rome establishes Algeria’s major Roman cities: Djemila, Tipasa
in North Africa to an end and Timgad
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Another Moroccan movement, ‘those who proclaim the unity of God’

(al-muwahhidin), known as the Almohads, denounced the religious lax- THE PIRATES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN
ness of the Almoravids and by 1160, Algeria was in Almohad hands. In the 16th and the 17th centuries, the secluded harbours and coastal cities from Morocco to
However, the empire grew too fast and soon began to crumble under its Libya were havens for pirates who terrorised seagoing traffic in the southern Mediterranean and
own weight. As it caved in, the Maghreb split into three parts: Ifriqiyya exacted tribute (ie protection money) from foreign governments to leave some ships alone.
(Tunisia and parts of Libya) came under the Hafsids; Algeria under the Also known as corsairs, the pirates even had their own trade union or taifa (community) which
Banu Abd al-Wad from Tlemcen; and Morocco under the Merenids. sought to lobby on behalf of the pirate cause. Businessmen themselves, they understood that
Although borders have changed and imperial rulers have come and gone, their survival depended upon a string of safe ports where no pursuers could track them down.
this division remains more or less intact today. The Abd al-Wadids (also Algiers and Tripoli in particular were cities where the entire economy came to revolve around
known as the Zayanids) transformed Tlemcen into a major regional the profiteering of pirates. Local rulers provided sanctuary and, together with otherwise legal
centre. They later formed an alliance with Granada in an effort to survive, merchants in the home ports, took their cut of the loot.
but fell to the greater power of the Merenids in 1352. One of the most picaresque pirates of legend was the Turkish pirate Barbarossa (‘Red Beard’
or Kheireddin) who changed the course of North African history by securing the region for the
OTTOMAN ALGERIA Ottoman Turks. Born on the Greek island of Lesbos in 1483, Barbarossa and his brother Arudj
Having successfully driven out the Muslims by 1492, Spain became a quickly showed that they were destined for far greater things than mere pirating.
leading power in North Africa. They did so by establishing fortified By 1510, the brothers were some of the richest North Africans of their generation and they
outposts (presidios) along the coast from where they exacted tribute from seized control of Algiers in 1515. After Arudj was killed in 1518 at Tlemcen, the shrewd Barbarossa
passing ships and the tribes of the interior. Some of their strongholds sniffed the political wind and realised that Ottoman power was on the rise. After he offered
in Algeria included Mers el-Kebir (1505), Oran (1509), Tlemcen (1510) them Algiers, they returned the favour and appointed him governor. Suddenly the pirate-king
and Algiers (1510); the Spanish Fort of Santa Cruz (p142) remains to had become respectable. In 1533, Süleyman the Magnificent was so impressed that he sum-
this day. moned Barbarossa to Constantinople and proclaimed him admiral of the Ottoman fleet. Until
At around the same time, the Turkish pirate Barbarossa (or Kheired- his death in 1547, he mounted successful raids on Tunis, Majorca, Italy and Nice on behalf of
din; see the boxed text, opposite) and his brother Arudj were permitted his Ottoman bosses.
to settle on the island of Jerba (Tunisia). Arudj captured Algiers from the And the name? Although historians hold to the fact that Barbarossa beard was indeed red,
Spanish, but they retook the city and killed Arudj in 1518. Thereupon there remains some speculation that ‘Barbarossa’ was simply a mispronunciation of ‘Baba
Barbarossa allied himself with the Ottoman Turks in order to protect Arudj’.
his Barbary possessions. With Ottoman support he secured control the
entire Algerian coast from Oran to Constantine, making Algeria the most
powerful foothold for the Ottomans in North Africa. In all three, piracy played a pivotal role in the local economies, and
There was a flurry of activity as Spaniards and Turks fought for su- the Barbary pirates, operating mainly from Algiers, Tunis and Tripoli,
The Ottoman deys
premacy in North Africa. Tripoli fell to the Turks in 1551, followed by were the scourge of Europe’s Mediterranean shipping. European fleets
(administrative chiefs) The Barbary Corsairs:
Tunis in 1574. Together with Algeria, the three provinces were governed occasionally blockaded North African ports and attacked the corsairs,
were elected for life, Warfare in the Mediter-
by a pasha, assisted by a dey (administrative chief), a bey (military chief) but rarely with any lasting effect.
but between 1671 and ranean, 1480-1580, by
and janissaries (soldiers, known as ojaq in Algeria). Power in fact resided
1830, 14 of the 29 rulers Jacques Heers, is filled
were assassinated before
more in the dey in Algeria and the bey in Tunisia, and the pashas were FRANCE TAKES CONTROL with the skulduggery and
little more than figureheads. The dey’s power declined in Algeria with the The French presence in North Africa started in earnest in 1830, when they
completing their turn. picaresque adventures of
assassination in 1671 of the last dey elected directly from Turkey. blockaded and attacked Algiers, supposedly because the dey of Algiers had
the pirates that raided
During Ottoman rule, Algiers was the bastion of direct Ottoman power insulted the French consul, but a more likely motive was the need at home
with impunity from
while the rest of the country was divided into three provinces with their for a military success to revive the flagging fortunes of Charles X.
Algeria.
capitals at Constantine, Médéa (south of Algiers) and later, after the Within three weeks of the French landing, 34,000 French troops took
Spanish abandoned it in 1791 after a massive earthquake, Oran. Further Algiers and the government of the dey had capitulated. The victorious
inland, local tribes enjoyed considerable autonomy and nowhere was this French soldiers wreaked havoc on the Algerian capital, killing and rap-
more true than in the Kabylie region. ing thousands of locals, desecrating mosques and cemeteries and looting
In fact, almost from the beginning, Turkey’s rule over its North African more than 50 million francs from the Treasury which was located in the
possessions was little more than a formality, although it was sufficiently Casbah. The French quickly took control of prime real estate and agricul-
powerful to exclude Arabs and Berbers from any significant positions. tural lands, further alienating and marginalising the local population.
The sultan’s name was used in the weekly sermons and new leaders A couple of weeks later, Charles X himself had been overthrown,
sought confirmation of their nominations from Constantinople, but to all although by then the French had become entrenched in Algiers and a
intents and purposes Algeria, Tunisia and Tripolitania acted independ- French parliamentary committee ruled that the occupation should be
ently, and frequently attacked one another. maintained for no reason other than what it called ‘national prestige’.
393–430 430 533 642

St Augustine serves as bishop of Hippo Regius Vandals take control of northern Algeria Byzantine forces led by Belisarius take North Africa from the Armies of Islam arrive in Algeria
Vandals
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France annexed occupied Algeria in 1834 and administration (the régime French domination of the entire north of the country was not achieved
du sabre, or ‘government of the sword’) of the colony was vested in a until 1871, when the people of the mountains of the Kabylie region were
military governor-general. finally subdued.
The Conquest of the
Opposition came from Oran in 1832 and most notably from the bey
Sahara, by Douglas
of Constantine who shrewdly replaced Turkish officials with local Arabs AN UNHAPPY OCCUPATION Porch, is a rollicking tale
and made Arabic the official language. When the French marched on During the first 50 years of French occupation, land was appropriated
of French ambitions to
Constantine in 1836, they were roundly defeated, although they finally and European settlers – mainly of French, Italian, Maltese and Spanish
conquer the Sahara, with
took the city a year later. origin – established their domination over the local inhabitants. Local
evocative reconstructions
Abdelkader was a Tlemcen-based sherif (descendant of the Prophet) culture was actively eliminated, and the Arab casbahs were replaced
of the last days of the ill-
who had been elected locally as the leader in the conflict with the invading with streets laid out in grids. The Djemaa el-Kebir of Algiers (p93) was
fated Flatters mission.
European Christians. He was recognised by the French in the Desmichels converted to the Cathedral of Saint Philippe, complete with a cross atop
Treaty of 1834, which effectively gave him control of western and inland its minaret.
central Algeria. Such was his charisma and ability to rally people that, by At a government level, the administration was dominated by Arabists
late 1838, the area under his control stretched from Biskra to the Moroc- who were generally more sympathetic towards the local population, a
can border in the south, and from the Kabylie region east of Algiers to stance which led to increasing tensions between the French government
Oran in the north – almost two thirds of Algeria. This area virtually con- and the pieds-noirs (see p42) or ordinary settlers. Napoleon III, who vis-
stituted a separate state, with its own judicial and administrative system. ited Algeria in the 1860s, found a fellow nobility in local tribal chieftains
By 1840, the French general Bugeaud had 108,000 soldiers in Algeria and he began to grow tired of the radicalism and racism of many Euro-
and one third of the French army was now on Algerian soil. By starving pean settlers in Algiers. His motives were hardly pure – he dreamed of
the local population, destroying crops and depopulating the countryside, a mostly-Muslim royaume arabe (Arab kingdom) with himself as roi des In 1909, Muslims
the French began to claw back territory. Arabes (king of the Arabs). Thwarted by colonial officials sympathetic to represented 90% of the
Algeria, by JR Morell, is
After a six-year struggle against the French, Abdelkader was forced the settlers, Napoleon’s plans came to nothing and French rule over the Algerian population and
an enlightening account
into Morocco, where he called on the sultan, Abd ar-Rahman, for sup- local population became increasingly exploitative and repressive. produced just 20% of the
of a journey through
port. This was provided, but the army was trounced by the French at When Napoleon III was defeated by the Prussians in 1870, French country’s income, but
French-occupied Algeria
Isly (near Oujda in Morocco) in 1844. Abdelkader finally surrendered to and other European colonists seized power in Algeria. A year later, the paid at least 45% and
in the 1850s with plenty
the French in 1846 on condition that he be allowed to live in the Middle Kabylie region began a rebellion that quickly spread across a country that up to 70% of the taxes
of 19th-century sniffling
East. Despite this, he was imprisoned in Toulon, Pau and Amboise until had become impoverished under the French. The French response was levied by the French.
and wide-eyed curiosity
1852; he was finally allowed to settle in Damascus. to confiscate massive tracts of tribal land, and military rule became even
at local customs.
By 1847, General Bugeaud had conquered the greater part of the coun- more repressive. Muslim Algerians had essentially become bystanders in
try and had been proclaimed governor-general of Algeria. their own country and their only permissible contribution to the running
of Algeria came in the form of paying high taxes. Needless to say, few of
the benefits of tax revenues were enjoyed by locals.
ABDELKADER’S LAST YEARS Apart from the wholesale appropriation of the best agricultural land,
Abdelkader was by far the greatest figure in Algeria’s nationalist movement and is a national hero Algerians were imprisoned without trial and the school system for Alge-
today, with many streets named after him and a major statue commemorating him in central rian children was neglected, something which the sending of a handful of
Algiers. But few Algerian nationalists in the past few centuries have enjoyed such an unlikely (mostly upper-class) Muslim children to France to further France’s ‘civi-
retirement as did Abdelkader. lising mission’ did nothing to conceal. This latter policy was one which At the end of the 19th
After he surrendered in 1846, he was imprisoned despite having been promised exile. The the French would later regret, as the évolués (literally ‘the evolved ones’) century, the French
reason? The French minister of war had once been a French general in Algeria and had bitter began to wonder why French ideals of freedom only applied in France. authorities were spend-
memories of having been trounced by Abdelkader. In 1852, Louis Napoleon set him free and This group of educated Algerians would plant the seeds of an Algerian ing five times more on
even granted him an annual pension of 150,000 francs. Abdelkader moved to Damascus where, nationalist movement in the lead-up to WWII. The more-than-170,000 educating European
in 1860, he acted quickly to avert a planned massacre of Christians by the Ottomans in the Syr- Algerians who had fought for France during WWI also came to increas- schoolchildren than they
ian capital, in the process saving an estimated 12,000 lives, including the French consul. And so ingly question French rule in Algeria. One of the most popular leaders were on the Muslim chil-
it was that the French awarded a man who was once one of France’s most bitter enemies the was, for a time, Khaled ibn Hashim, the grandson of Abdelkader. dren who made up 85%
Grand Cordon of the Legion of Honour. Calls for independence grew louder as predominantly younger Alge- of students. In 1870, just
He died in Damascus in 1883 after 36 years in exile. After independence, in 1966, Algeria’s rians formed nationalist groups and began agitating for autonomy or 5% of Algerian children
government brought his remains back to Algeria to mark the 136th anniversary of the French independence. These efforts culminated in the formation in 1937 of the attended school.
invasion of Algeria. Two years later, the Mosque of Emil Abdelkader (p120) was also built in Parti du Peuple Algérien, which was followed by the establishment of
Constantine in his honour. the Association of Algerian Ulama, a largely religious body, in Algeria
itself. Although the first nationalist leaders pushed a largely secular line,
761–909 972–1148 11th century 1529

The Ibadi Rustamids rule Algeria from Tahirt Berber Zirid dynasty rules over much of northern Algeria Bani Hilal and Bani Salim (Bani Sulaim) sweep across North Africa, Kheireddin (Barbarossa) establishes Ottoman regency at Algiers
completing Algeria’s cultural Arabisation
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With the countryside in turmoil, hundreds of thousands of colons fled

SUBJUGATING THE SOUTH to Algiers.
By 1871, the French had secured effective control over all of northern Algeria, but Algeria’s vast In a bid to curtail the war, Charles de Gaulle sent Jacques Soustelle
south was a different matter altogether. For centuries, the isolated oases of the Algerian Sahara to Algeria as governor-general with proposals for improving economic
had been largely untouched by events in the north. conditions for ordinary Algerians, but the FLN massacre of 123 French
The Sahara was the domain of the Tuareg (p41), the nomadic people of the desert, and they civilians near Philippeville (near Constantine) in August 1955 and the
survived by serving as both the raiders and protectors of trans-Saharan caravans. Although dis- French retaliation that claimed up to 12,000 Muslim lives announced the
persed throughout the Sahara, they formed loose confederations watched over by sultans who outbreak of full-scale war.
only had as much power as the disparate Tuareg tribes allowed them. From their capitals in By 1956, the fight for Algerian independence was being actively sup- Frantz Fanon, who wrote
Agadez in Niger and the Tassili du Hoggar (p189), the sultans mediated in disputes between ported by Morocco and Tunisia, both former French protectorates, as The Wretched of the
Tuareg tribes. The Tuareg known as Kel Ahaggar (the People of the Ahaggar) were, by some well as Egyptian president Gamal Abdel Nasser, the great emerging Earth, was internationally
accounts, the largest and most powerful Tuareg in all the Sahara. voice of Arab nationalism. Such support led to the construction by the recognised as the FLN’s
Having established northern Algeria as their own, the French decided that it was time to seize French of a series of massive barbed-wire fences and observation posts leading political theorist.
control of the Sahara and the supposed riches of Central Africa that lay beyond. With dreams of to separate Algeria from both Morocco and Tunisia. The fence along His theories included an
building a railway across the Sahara, the French government sent two expeditions led by Colonel the Moroccan border was over 1000km long, and the remnants can still eloquent justification
Paul Flatters deep into the Sahara. After the first was turned back by menacing Tuareg and a be seen today. for the use of violence
shortage of supplies, a second reached Amguid at the northwestern limits of the Tassili N’Ajjer In 1956, the FLN also began to take guerrilla warfare onto the streets in achieving national
escarpment, east of In Salah and north of Tamanrasset. A Tuareg ambush was lying in wait and of Algiers and other cities, as immortalised in the classic cult movie The liberation.
those who weren’t killed in the initial attack died slow and painful deaths on the long trek north. Battle of Algiers (p53). The following year, the FLN, who had more than
Just 12 out of 97 men survived the expedition. Colonel Flatters was not among them. 40,000 guerrillas under arms, called a national strike and in spring alone
This attack bought the nomads time – two decades in fact – but in the first decade of the carried out 800 gun attacks. Their trademark became night raids and am-
20th century, French military expeditions succeeded in defeating the Tuareg and, for the first bushes on military and civilian targets. The Massif de Aurès, the Kabylie
time, all of Algeria was under French sovereignty. and the mountainous areas surrounding Oran, Algiers and Constantine
became FLN strongholds. In-fighting within the nationalist movement
was also a feature of the war and many Muslims suspected of ties to
Islamic groups also grew in popularity, thereby revealing the first signs France were also increasingly the subject of FLN attacks.
of a major fault line in Algerian society and one which would, decades The French response was equally brutal. French troops were granted
later, have a devastating impact upon the country. permission to use any tactics necessary to quell the rebellion and this
Despite ongoing repression, after WWII the French president, Charles blanket immunity was manifested in the torture of prisoners and a policy
The Battle of the Casbah,
de Gaulle, offered citizenship to certain categories of Muslims. This was of collective punishment for villages and families suspected of supporting
by Paul Aussaresses, is an
considered inadequate, and an uprising near Sétif saw the massacre of the FLN. More than two million Muslim Algerians were forcibly reset-
unprecedented exposé
more than 100 Europeans. Up to 45,000 Algerian Muslims were killed tled. Fighting alongside the 400,000 French troops in Algeria were as
of French brutality and
in response. By 1947, however, all Muslims had been given full French many as 150,000 harkis, Muslim irregulars loyal to France.
government complicity
Throughout the citizenship rights and the right to live and work in France. For the French, In 1958, with the colons demanding an even stronger French response,
during the Algerian War
1954–62 Algerian War however, independence was a road too far. Charles de Gaulle took power again and it seemed as if the colons’ wish
of Independence as told
of Independence, the had come true. De Gaulle was seeking an alternative to the FLN and
by a former French army
National Liberation Front THE ALGERIAN WAR OF INDEPENDENCE proposed measures favourable to Muslim Algerians. By 1959, the French
officer.
(FLN) was active among On 1 November 1954, the young guerrillas (maquisards) who had formed had secured military control over Algeria, but widespread opposition in
Algerian immigrants the new National Liberation Front (FLN) – a body whose stated aim was France to the war was taking its toll, and former colonies across Africa
in France, and its feuds to bring down the French administration by military means at home and soon began to gain independence.
with other opposition diplomacy abroad – launched a series of attacks across Algeria against The colons had meanwhile come to believe rumours that Charles de
groups led to what were a host of French government installations. On the same day, the FLN Gaulle was moving towards Algerian independence, and they led brand
known as the ‘café wars’ broadcast a message exhorting Algerians to join the fight for the ‘restora- their erstwhile hero as a traitor. Two failed coup attempts and an escala-
in which nearly 5000 tion of the Algerian state, sovereign, democratic, and social, within the tion in terrorism by a settler terrorist organisation, the Organisation de
people died. framework of the principles of Islam’. France’s minister of the interior, l’Armée Secrète (OAS), were the last throws of the dice by the colons.
one François Mitterrand, replied that ‘the only possible negotiation is Their worst fears were confirmed when the French government
war’. The Algerian War of Independence had begun. opened negotiations with the FLN in Évian in May 1961. The result was
In addition to conventional French forces, the FLN found itself up a ceasefire due to take effect on 19 March 1962, and a referendum on in-
against colonial farmers vigilante groups whose brutality during raton- dependence followed in Algeria the same year. The result was six million
nades (literally ‘rat-hunts’) was largely ignored by the French authorities. in favour of independence and only 16,000 against. De Gaulle proclaimed
1671 1791 1830 1871

Assassination of the last dey elected directly from Turkey The Spanish abandon Oran French army invades Algeria and takes control of Algiers French defeat Berber rebels in the Kabylie region and extend
control over all of northern Algeria
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Algerian independence on 3 July and it took effect on 25 September. The With the economy in freefall, Chadli abolished the central planning
trickle of French settlers returning to France turned into a flood. authority, the bastion of socialist economic control. The new legislation
During eight years of war, as many as one million Muslim Algerians removed most public companies from direct government control and
were killed (including 70,000 at the hands of the FLN), along with 18,000 freed up the banking system. Chadli moved slowly for fear of opposition
French soldiers and 10,000 European civilians. within the ruling FLN, as the party’s old-timers regarded any moves away
from central control of the economy with deep suspicion.
THE INDEPENDENCE YEARS Massive strikes in October 1988 in Algiers quickly turned into riots and
Ahmed ben Bella, a leading figurehead of opposition to French rule, spread to Annaba, Blida and Oran. More than 500 people were killed in
became independent Algeria’s first elected president. He pledged a ‘revo- the resulting violence in what is still remembered as ‘Black October’.
A Savage War of Peace:
lutionary Arab-Islamic state based on the principles of socialism and The government tried further changes and the 1989 reforms blew
Algeria 1954-1962, by
collective leadership at home and anti-imperialism abroad’. through Algerian society like a breath of fresh air. New press freedoms
Alistair Horne, is detailed
Despite the euphoria surrounding independence and Ben Bella’s popu- were married to a liberalising of the political system and in 1989, Ab-
and highly readable, and
larity, many of the old rivalries that simmered away during the war bassi Madani and Ali Belhadj founded the Islamic Salvation Front (Front
one of the best accounts
continued to plague the country and Ben Bella’s leadership style did not Islamique du Salut; FIS). The FIS quickly outpolled the ruling FLN in
of Algeria’s struggle to be
foster orderly administration in a country still devastated by war. He local elections.
free of French rule.
was overthrown in 1965 by the defence minister and FLN chief of staff, The first round of Algeria’s first free multiparty elections, held on 26
Colonel Houari Boumedienne. Ben Bella spent many years in exile in December 1991, produced another landslide for the FIS. Of the 231 seats
Switzerland, but he would later return to lead his party, the Movement decided (out of 430 in the National Assembly), the FIS took 188. The
for Democracy in Algeria (MDA), in 1990. FLN won just 15 seats, 10 fewer than the Socialist Forces Front (FFS) –
Boumedienne was a cautious pragmatist. He set about rebuilding the a Berber party.
country’s economy, which had come unstuck at the time of independence The army stepped in, dissolving parliament, persuading Chadli to step
with the departure of the majority of the country’s administrators and tech- down and replacing him with a five-man Haut Conseil d’Etat (HCE) led
London-based Darf
nical experts, all of whom were Europeans. Unemployment and underem- by President Mohammed Boudiaf. The second round of elections was
Publishers (www.darf
ployment remained serious problems and many Algerians were forced to cancelled, FIS leaders Abbas Madani and Ali Belhadj were arrested and
publishers.co.uk) should
work in France, despite the ill-feeling which existed there towards them. others fled into exile.
be your first stop when
There was very little political change in Algeria under Boumedienne. Boudiaf lasted barely six months before he was assassinated in bizarre
trying to track down
The FLN was the sole political party, pursuing basically secular, socialist circumstances while opening a cultural centre in Annaba. The official line
hard-to-find travellers’
policies. Bad planning by the lumbering centralised bureaucracy saw was that Boudiaf had been shot by a lone gunman, who also managed
accounts of North Africa;
agricultural production fall below levels achieved under the French. to wound 40-odd members of the audience before escaping undetected
there’s a Libya focus
The economy was saved by the discovery of large gas and oil reserves in by the legions of security guards at the scene. Adding that the gunman
but plenty available on
the Sahara, but few of the proceeds reached ordinary Algerians. had acted out of religious conviction didn’t make the story any more
Algeria.
plausible. There were suggestions that Boudiaf was the victim of an
THE ROAD TO WAR establishment plot hatched by people opposed to his attempts to tackle
Colonel Boumedienne died in December 1978 and, at a meeting of the institutionalised corruption.
FLN in Algiers, Colonel Chadli Benjedid was elected president. Chadli Whatever the truth of the matter, he was replaced by a hardliner in
inherited a country brimming with discontent. former FLN stalwart Ali Kafi, who remained at the helm until he was
Berber university students and others from the Kabylie region increas- replaced by a former general, Liamine Zéroual, on 31 January 1994, with
ingly agitated against the government’s Arabisation of government and the country on the brink of civil war.
education. When the government made extremely limited concessions
to the Berbers, however, Islamists mounted vociferous protests. A de- CIVIL WAR OR THE ‘SECOND WAR OF LIBERATION’
teriorating economy also pushed many Algerians into the Islamist fold, Initial reports that Islamic leaders had rejected violence as a means of
although how many did so out of disaffection with the failed promises of taking power from the military soon proved ill-founded. By the end of
the independence-era elite rather than genuine religious conviction is not April 1994, more than 3000 people had died in the civil war that militants
known. Once-liberal Algeria became a social battleground as conserva- were calling the second war of liberation.
tive activists took their protests to the streets, targeting ‘indecency’ and The rising death toll included a growing list of foreigners, most of
what they saw as the country’s moral decline. them resident in the country. Among the victims were 12 Croatian en-
The police cracked down hard on the Islamists. At the same time, the gineers whose throats were slit after their attackers confirmed that the
government sought to highlight their own Islamic credentials and drain victims were Christians. Eight others were spared after convincing their
popular support from the Islamists by opening new mosques and intro- attackers that they were Bosnian Muslims. Attacks against foreigners
ducing family laws that seriously diminished the rights of women. have been justified on two grounds: firstly, to sabotage Algeria’s already
1881 1947 1954–62 25 September 1962

Tuareg raiders ambush and massacre the French military Muslim Algerians receive full French citizenship rights and the Algerian War of Independence Algeria becomes independent
expedition of Colonel Paul Flatters in the Sahara right to live and work in France
36 H I S T O R Y • • A l g e r i a T o d a y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • A l g e r i a T o d a y 37
troubled economy – which many regard as being propped up by the about such moves among human rights groups and victims’ groups, the
West; and secondly, as vengeance on the ‘spies of the unbelievers in the Civil Harmony Act and Charter for Peace and National Reconciliation
land of Islam’. were approved by 97% of voters in a referendum in September 2005. The AllAfrica.com (www
The vast majority of victims, however, were Algerians. Particularly laws provided an amnesty for most crimes committed in the course of .allafrica.com) is the
targeted by guerrillas were policemen, mayors, judges and Francophile the war, and under the law Ali Belhadj, one of the founders of the FIS, place to go for non-
intellectuals. The attacks were claimed by various underground groups was released. mainstream news cover-
such as the Groupes Islamiques Armés (GIA) and the Mouvement Is- The spectre of terrorism also remains a primary concern for Algerians. age of Algerian history as
lamique Armé (MIA). The government responded with displays of force Although the GSPC announced in March 2005 that it could be prepared it happens.
and the mass arrests of suspects. There was also irrefutable evidence that to disarm and accept the government’s offers of amnesty, it then formally
the government set up its own shadowy paramilitary groups which oper- allied itself with Al-Qaeda in September 2006. In January 2007, the GSPC
ated like South American–style death squads as they carried out (often formally changed its name to Al-Qaeda. GSPC militants were responsible
collective) revenge killings. for kidnapping 32 European travellers in the Algerian Sahara in 2003 and
The blood-letting peaked at 300 deaths a week in early 1994, signal- Al-Qaeda claimed responsibility for the serious bomb attacks of April
ling the failure of a so-called commission of national dialogue to have 2007 which killed dozens and injured more than 100 people. They are
any impact on proceedings. It also signalled the end of the road for believed to still have their base in Algeria’s extreme southwest, close to
President Kafi. the border with Mali.
President Liamine Zéroual proved unable to stem the tide of violence
and in July 1995, the GIA exploded a bomb on the Paris Metro and in
December hijacked an Air France airliner in Algiers. A November 1996
referendum approved constitutional reforms but for Algeria at the time it
was one step forward, two steps back. During the first two weeks of Ram-
adan in 1997, more than 300 people were killed and grisly ritual massacres,
reportedly by both sides, kept the country in a state of terror. In elections
in 1997, legal Islamist parties such as the Movement of Society for Peace
and the Islamic Renaissance Movement won around 22% of the vote.
With the population exhausted by almost a decade of war in which
nearly 100,000 people were killed, the FIS offered to disband its military
wing, although another group, the Salafist Group for Call and Combat
(GSPC) vowed to continue the reign of terror. In April 1999, the mili-
tary’s preferred candidate, Abdelaziz Bouteflika, won elections boycotted
by opposition parties.
The killings continued.
ALGERIA TODAY
Although no-one can say for certain when the war ended, by 2002 the
Modern Algeria, by John main guerrilla groups had either been defeated or had accepted the of-
Ruedy, is one of few fers of a government amnesty. That’s not to say that Algeria’s problems
English-language are over.
histories of Algeria to The Algerian economy has been devastated by war and unemploy-
have been updated in ment, and social dislocation remains high. In the predominantly Berber
recent years (make sure (Amazigh) Kabylie region, there is increasing discontent over unheeded
you have the second demands for autonomy and recognition of Berber languages and culture.
edition published in Security forces clashed repeatedly with the Kabylie Citizens’ Movement
2005) and includes the into 2003 with a mounting death toll the only discernible result.
2004 elections. President Bouteflika consolidated his hold on power in parliamentary
elections in May 2003 and in 2004 he became the first-ever Algerian
president to be re-elected by popular vote. The elections were, however,
marred by allegations of vote-rigging.
A feature of President Bouteflika’s rule has been attempts to heal the
deep scars that still divide Algeria. Although there was some disquiet
26 December 1991 1992 1994–2002 September 2005

Algeria’s first multiparty elections won by FIS Islamist party Algerian army dissolves parliament and cancels second round of Civil war Some 97% of Algerians vote for government amnesty for crimes
elections committed during the civil war
38 lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • E c o n o m y 39
complicated in the second half of the 20th century. However, the massive
The Culture strain on social services ensures that family support networks – including
remittances from overseas – nonetheless remain as important as ever.
Grafted onto the immediate family are multiple layers of identity,
THE NATIONAL PSYCHE among them extended family, tribe and village, with an overarching
Although exceptions exist, Algerians are a forthright, passionate people national component of which every Algerian is proud, albeit with res- Each adult woman now
who can seem to carry within them all the optimism, vision and conflict ervations. The nuclear family was traditionally large with numerous gives birth to an average
that the country itself possesses. Few require much prompting to voice children, although some, mainly urban, Algerians now opt for a more of 1.89 children, a far
what they see as the ills of their country, whether it be the president and manageable Western-style number of offspring. cry from the early 1990s
his shortcomings or the Islamists and their fanaticism. Anger is a com- Men generally marry later than women (for men the average age is 33, when population growth
mon emotion as Algerians look around at the country’s abundant natural for women 29, the relative lateness of which is partly attributable to the rates were out of control
wealth and compare it with their own poverty – they’re tired of official high cost of staging weddings) and arranged marriages still frequently and the country’s popula-
excuses and politicians of every ilk squabbling over riches that never seem take place between the children of male cousins. This is, however, be- tion was doubling every
to reach people like them. coming increasingly rare in urban areas and in particular among families 20 years.
Another common response to the perceived ills of the country is a where members have returned to Algeria after years of living in Europe.
sense of defeat. It is not unusual in Algiers and Oran in particular to This amalgam of Algerian and European values is one of the most fun-
find men of any age simply staring out to sea, dreaming of a better life in damental changes determining the Algerian future, although the results
Europe; the women are most likely too busy to have time. Among these are far from clear.
are the hittistes (see the boxed text, below), the vast numbers of young, Life expectancy (73.26 years) is one of the highest in Africa and literacy
sometimes educated men – almost a third of the population is under 30 (approaching 70%) is respectable, but these figures conceal overloaded
and the youth literacy rate stands at 90% – who have grown tired of wait- health and education systems that many Algerians see as boding ill for
ing for the promises of a new Algeria to become real and have been left the country’s future. Housing is another major problem, particularly
with nothing to do and nowhere to go. As one Algerian told us, Ramadan with the movement of people from rural areas into the larger cities in
was quite easy for him because he didn’t get to eat during the day during recent decades.
any other month of the year anyway.
At the same time, the Algerian middle class is as sophisticated as any ECONOMY
in the Arab world, their refined sensibilities, creativity and love of intel- The Good News
lectual debate as evident as their dream that Algeria will one day be a Algeria is one of the richest countries in Africa and in 2006 Algeria
tolerant, wealthy and peaceful society. ranked third (behind neighbours Libya and Tunisia) among mainland
As Algerian passions repeatedly spill over and subside, home-grown African countries on the UN’s Human Development Index, which ranks
music (most likely rai) provides the soundtrack, tracing the frenetic, countries according to a range of economic and quality-of-life indicators.
roller-coaster ride that is the Algerian existence and reminding people Such apparent wealth reflects the country’s formidable natural resources:
just why, in spite of everything, they are so proud to be Algerian. Algeria has the seventh-largest natural gas reserves in the world, is the
second-largest exporter of natural gas and has the 14th-largest reserves of
LIFESTYLE oil. High oil prices in recent years has meant that Algeria has a significant
Life for the ordinary Algerian revolves around the family, a bond that trade surplus, its external debt has been considerably reduced, inflation Just 3% of Algeria is
took on added significance during the years of conflict surrounding is low and GDP per capita sits at a comfortable US$6603. suitable for agriculture,
independence and the 1990s. Such has been the exodus of Algerians In pre-oil days and during the French occupation, agriculture was the but somehow Algeria
to Europe, especially France, that these bonds became infinitely more mainstay of the Algerian economy and it remains an important feature manages to be 70%
of the domestic market, even as it contributes little to the country’s self-sufficient in food, up
export earnings. from just 40% 15 years
WHAT ARE ‘HITTISTES’? Zahia Hafs
ago. Major crops include
On busy streets, you will see young men standing around, leaning against walls, idling the day The Bad News wheat, barley, grapes,
away. These are referred to as ‘hittistes’, from ‘hit’, meaning wall. Literally they are said ‘to hold That the Algerian economy is on the upswing only partially hides the fact olives and citrus fruits.
the wall’. They are jobless young men in their 20s, struggling to make a few dinars each day, if that it has a long way to climb. The damage done to the economy by the
they are lucky, by selling small items. About 80% of the unemployed are under 30 and most of years of civil war is still being felt and although investors are starting to re-
them are unqualified, which makes the search for work almost impossible. Most of the time they turn, unemployment remains high and general living standards are taking
have nothing to do besides hanging around, talking to friends, watching girls go by and trying a long time to reach the potential that the Algerian economy undoubtedly
to chat them up. They usually stick to the same wall, making it their territory. Maybe it is a way has. As such, the issue of more equitably distributing Algeria’s consider-
to have their own space when they lack privacy at home. They all dream of greener pastures, able wealth to ensure that all Algerians benefit – a quarter of Algerians live
somewhere on the other side of the Mediterranean. below the poverty line – is a matter of daily concern for Algerians.
When the Berlin wall fell in 1989, the running joke was: ‘Instead of breaking down the wall, The other major issue confronting the country’s economic planners
the Germans should send it to us…’. No matter how hard a situation is, Algerians always find a is how to diversify an economy that is almost wholly dependent on oil.
way to make light of it with their sense of humour. High oil prices, promising results from recent oil and gas prospecting
and high demand among Western countries for Algeria’s low-sulphur
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oil conceals the fact that oil and natural gas account for 95% of export When Arab tribes swept across North Africa in the 7th and 11th cen-
earnings. That’s fine for the present, but the day that Algeria runs out of turies, many Berbers retreated into the mountain and desert redoubts
oil is one that most Algerians prefer not to think about. which they continue to occupy. In Algeria, by far the largest concentra-
tion of ‘Berbers’ are the Kabyles who inhabit the Kabylie Mountains in
POPULATION northeastern Algeria. Most often, groups from this region do not call
Historical Dictionary of
Together, Arabs and Berbers make up 99% of the population. Historically themselves Berber at all, but, like the Tuareg, prefer to be known as
the Berber (2006) by
these two groups have intermarried, making demarcation difficult, al- Imazighen (singular: Amazigh), which means ‘the noble and the free’.
Hsain Ilahiane is the most
though most estimates suggest that 75% of the population consider them- Other ‘Berber’ groups include the Chaouia in the mountains south of
comprehensive study of
selves to be Arab, with a further 20% to 25% Berber. Other groups include Constantine, as well as communities throughout the Atlas Mountains
the history and culture
the Tuareg and a small handful of pieds-noirs (French Algerians). from Blida to the Moroccan border and beyond, and in the M’Zab region
of the Berber people of
Algeria’s population density stands at 13.8 people per sq kilometre, close to Ghardaïa.
North Africa, with a range
although so vast is Algeria’s largely uninhabited desert region that popu- The key touchstones of Berber identity are language and culture, al-
of alphabetical entries
lation density in northern regions is much higher than these figures sug- though most Berbers are now bilingual, speaking their native language
and maps.
gest. Around 60% of Algerians live in cities, but this figure is rising. and Arabic. Within the Berber community, loyalty is primarily to the
family or tribe. Households are organised into nuclear family groups,
Arabs while dwellings within a village or town are usually clustered in groups
The question of who the Arabs are exactly is still widely debated. Are of related families.
they all the people speaking Arabic, or only the residents of the Arabian In keeping with their centuries-long resistance to foreign domination
A History of the Arab
Peninsula? Fourteen centuries ago, only the nomadic tribes wandering and to the imposition of religious orthodoxy, many Berbers belong to
Peoples, by Albert
between the Euphrates River and the central Arabian Peninsula were con- the Kharijite or Ibadi sect (see the boxed text, p48). True to their reli-
Hourani, is the definitive
sidered Arabs, distinguished by their language. However, with the rapid gious beliefs, Berber communities have long prided themselves on their
text when it comes to
expansion of Islam, the language of the Quran spread to vast areas. egalitarianism. The traditional Berber economy consists of farming and
Arab history painted in
The first wave of Arab migration came in the 7th century as the pastoralism, meaning that most people live sedentary lifestyles, tied to
broad brush strokes. Bet-
armies of Islam spread rapidly across North Africa and established Arab- their particular patch of land, while a small minority follows semino- The Tuareg, by Jeremy
ter still, it’s written in a
Muslim rule as far afield as Andalusia in what is now southern Spain. madic patterns, taking flocks to seasonal pasturelands. Keenan, is considered
lively style and is easy to
But it was not until the 11th century that vast numbers of Arab settlers Although Berber agitation for sweeping autonomy in Algeria is un- one of the best and most
dip into or read in full.
from the Bani Salim and Bani Hilal tribes on the Arabian Peninsula likely to be granted any time soon, recent years have seen an increase in readable anthropological
arrived and the cultural Arabisation of the region began. The reason Berber-language education in Berber areas and Tamazigh is now recog- studies of the Algerian
behind the migration was an attempt by the Fatimid dynasty ruling nised as a ‘national language’, although not an official one. Tuareg.
Egypt at the time to increase its hegemony over the outlying reaches of
its empire. The Bani Salim largely remained in the eastern Libyan region Tuareg
of Cyrenaica, while it was the Bani Hilal who colonised large parts of The Tuareg are the nomadic, camel-owning bearers of a proud desert
northern Algeria. culture who traditionally roamed across the Sahara from Mauritania to
Although the Arabs were relatively few in number in Algeria, their western Sudan.
culture quickly became established through language and intermarriage. The two main Tuareg groups in Algeria, whose members number an
The term ‘Arab’ came to apply to two groups: in addition to the original estimated 75,000, are the Kel Ahaggar from the Tassili du Hoggar and
nomadic Arabs, the settled inhabitants of newly conquered provinces the Kel Ajjer from the area around Djanet, although within each group
such as Algeria also became known as Arabs. there are various subgroups which have slightly different languages and
customs.
Berbers
Berbers claim to be the descendants of North Africa’s original inhabit-
ants and most historians believe this to be true, arguing that the Berbers TUAREG ORIGINS
Amazigh Online (www
descend from the Neolithic peoples who arrived in the area up to 17,000 The origins of the Tuareg are not fully understood, although it is widely agreed that the Tuareg
.amazighonline.com) lists
years ago. Other historians claim that the Berbers are descended from the were once Berbers from regions stretching from southeastern Morocco to northeastern Libya.
links to a host of interest-
remnants of the great Garamantian empire, which flourished in the Fez- There are indeed marked similarities between many words in the Tuareg language of Tamashek
ing websites dedicated
zan region of southern Libya from around 900 BC to AD 500. Otherwise, and those in the Berber language of Tamazigh. When the Arab armies of Islam forced many
to the Berber (Amazigh)
little is known about their origins. Berbers to retreat into the desert in the 7th century, and when waves of Arab migration swept
people, from scholarly
The name ‘Berber’ has been attributed to a collection of communities through the region in the 11th century, those who would become Tuareg fled deep into the
articles to lively social
by outsiders, but rarely, until recently, by the Berbers themselves. The desert where they have remained ever since.
and cultural debates.
name is thought to derive from the Latin word ‘barbari’, the word used Tuareg stories about their origins largely concur with this version of history, although most
in Roman times to classify non-Latin-speakers along the North African Algerian Tuareg claim to be descended from a single noblewoman, Tin Hinan, who arrived in the
coast. ‘Berber’ is used as a loose term for native speakers of the various Tassili du Hoggar astride a white camel having journeyed from the Tafilalt region of southeastern
Berber dialects, most of which go by the name of Tamazigh. In fact, many Morocco. Finding the land to be largely uninhabited, the Tuareg say, Tin Hinan decided to stay
Berbers do not even use a word that unites them as a community, prefer- and she became the mother of all Tuareg.
ring instead to define themselves according to their tribe.
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The Tuareg traditionally followed a rigid status system with nobles, FAMOUS FRENCH PEOPLE WITH ALGERIAN ROOTS
blacksmiths and slaves all occupying strictly delineated hierarchical po-
sitions, although the importance of caste identity has diminished in Although not all considered themselves to be pieds-noirs (Black feet; descendants of French settlers),
recent years. Until the early 20th century, the Tuareg made a fiercely the following are some of the most famous French people to have been born on Algerian soil.
independent living by raiding sedentary settlements, participating in Louis Pierre Althusser (1918–90) One of the leading Marxist philosophers of the 20th century.
long-distance trade and exacting protection money from traders passing Albert Camus (1913–60) A leading light in the existentialist school of thought (although he
across their lands. rejected the designation), Camus won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1957 and some of his
The veils or taguelmoust that are the symbols of a Tuareg’s identity – novels are set in Algeria.
the use of indigo fabric which stained the skin has led them to be Jacques Derrida (1930–2004) The father of deconstruction theory was another of the most
called the ‘Blue People of the Sahara’ – are both a source of protection eminent philosophers of the 20th century.
against desert winds and sand, and a social requirement. For more in-
formation on the taguelmoust, see the boxed text, p68. Yves Saint-Laurent (1936–) The exclusive French fashion designer was born in Oran and
served briefly as a conscript in the French army during the Algerian War of Independence.
Traditionally, Tuareg women are not veiled, enjoy a considerable
degree of independence and play a much more active role in the organisa- Edith Piaf (1916–1953) One of the iconic French voices of the 20th century, Mme Piaf’s mater-
tion of their society than do their Arab or Berber counterparts. Descent nal grandmother came from the Kabylie region of northeastern Algeria.
is determined along matrilineal lines. Zinedine Zidane (1972–) Although the three-time World Footballer of the Year was born in
The name ‘Tuareg’ is a designation given to the community by outsid- Marseille and played for France, his parents were from the Kabylie region and many Algerians
ers and it is only recently that the Tuareg have begun to call themselves still claim him as their own; in 2006 he returned for a visit to the region.
by this name. The name is thought to be an adaptation of the Arabic
word ‘tawarek’, which means ‘abandoned by God’ – a reference both to
The Pastoral Tuareg, by
the hostility of the land the Tuareg inhabit and to what other Muslims to their properties so that they would be useless to Algerians. The effect
Johannes and Ida Nico-
consider their lax application of Islamic laws. The Tuareg themselves on the Algerian economy was catastrophic.
laesen, is a two-volume,
have always, until recently, preferred to be known as ‘Kel Tamashek’ Once they arrived in France – a place many pieds-noirs had never
encyclopaedic study of
(speakers of the Tamashek language), ‘Kel Taguelmoust’ (People of the visited – most pieds-noirs were left to fend for themselves. Embittered by
the Tuareg, especially
Veil) or ‘Imashaghen’ (noble and the free). what they saw as France’s rejection and angered by criticism of the pieds-
those of southern Algeria.
Traditional Tuareg society is rapidly breaking down, mainly due to the noirs’ often brutal tactics during the 1954–62 war, many chose to migrate
It’s a great addition to
agrarian reform policies of the government, the influx of large numbers to the Americas, Spain or New Caledonia. The harkis – Muslim Algerians The Architecture of
your reference library.
of Arabs from the north and a series of crippling droughts which have who had supported French rule – fared even worse, as thousands were Memory: A Jewish-Muslim
forced many people into the towns to search for work. For more informa- refused visas for France and were massacred by the National Liberation Household in Colonial
tion on the changes to Tuareg life, see the boxed text, p77. Front (FLN) after the French left. Around 100,000 pieds-noirs elected to Algeria 1937-62, by Joelle
remain in Algeria, but by the 1980s there were fewer than 3000 left. Bahloul, is an intimate
Pieds-Noirs portrait of the last days of
Although few remain, the pieds-noirs (singular: pied-noir) are crucial to Jews the Algerian Jewish com-
any understanding of Algeria’s population mix. They are the ‘Black Feet’ Although Algerian Jews were often historically called pieds-noirs, they oc- munity who had lived in
or predominantly French settlers and their descendants in Algeria; the cupied a distinctive place in Algerian society from Roman times until 1994. Algeria for millennia.
name is also used to refer to Algerian Jews. Following their expulsion from Spain (especially Andalusia) in 1492, many
After France occupied Algeria in the first half of the 19th century, set- Jews settled in Algeria, with particularly large communities putting down
tlers from all over southern Europe began arriving en masse. At first called roots in Algiers and Oran. Algerian Jews were granted French citizenship in
colons, they planted deep roots in Algerian soil and by the 20th century 1870 and by 1931 Jews made up 2% of Algeria’s population and more than
most considered themselves to be more Algerian than French (except, it 10% of the populations of Constantine, Ghardaïa, Sétif and Tlemcen.
must be said, for many cases, when dealing with Muslim Algerians). By Algeria’s postindependence government bestowed Algerian independ-
1926, over 15% of the population were pieds-noirs. By 1959, there were ence only upon Muslims and the overwhelming majority of the 150,000
more than one million pieds-noirs in Algeria – 10% of the population – Jewish Algerians fled to France. Following the Armed Islamic Group’s
and they accounted for more than 30% of the population of Algiers and declaration of war on all non-Muslims in Algeria in 1994, all but a hand-
Oran. There was also a large pied-noir population in Annaba. ful of the last remaining Jews left the country and the final functioning
The name ‘pied-noir’ has been attributed to the fact that people of synagogue in Algiers closed down. Many fled to Israel where they were
French origin in Algeria wore black boots, although in the early 20th granted instant citizenship. It is believed that fewer than 100 Jews remain
century the name referred to all indigenous Algerians. in Algeria, with most of these living in Algiers.
From 1954, as the country descended into a war of independence,
the pieds-noirs fiercely supported France and were in turn targeted by SPORT
Algerian nationalist forces. When President Charles de Gaulle effectively When Lakhdar Belloumi fired home Algeria’s second goal to defeat West
sanctioned Algerian independence in 1962, the pied-noir community Germany in the first game of the 1982 World Cup, hopes were high that
levelled accusations of betrayal at the French government, but to no Algerian football (soccer) was entering a golden age and that Algeria
avail: 900,000 pieds-noirs fled Algeria in 1962, thereby gutting govern- was on the verge of becoming a major footballing power. Those hopes
ment administration in many places such as Oran. Many also laid waste continued as Algeria again qualified for the World Cup finals in 1986 and
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went on to win the African Nations’ Cup in 1990. The promise was never Saudi Arabia. Mohammed’s family belonged to the Quraysh tribe, a trad-
realised and Algerian football has been in decline ever since, a state of af- ing family with links to Syria and Yemen. By the age of six, Mohammed’s
fairs made all the more sad by the fact that football is wildly popular in Al- parents had both died and he came into the care of his grandfather, the
geria and it is difficult to overestimate the passions which the sport inspires custodian of the Kaaba in Mecca. When he was around 25 years old,
here. In a sign of how far the Algerian national team (known as the Desert Mohammed married Khadija, a widow and a merchant and he worked
Foxes) has fallen, in 10 qualifying matches for the 2006 World Cup, Algeria in running her business.
won just one game and finished behind Angola, Nigeria, Zimbabwe and At the age of 40, in 610, Mohammed retreated into the desert and began
Gabon. As a result, Algerian football fans are largely restricted to cheering to receive divine revelations from Allah via the voice of the Archangel
for Algerian footballers plying their trade in Europe – Madjid Bougherra, Gabriel – the revelations would continue for the rest of Mohammed’s life.
In 1992 Hassiba Boul- Ali Benarbia and Brahim Hemdani are among the better-known – or stak- Three years later, Mohammed began imparting Allah’s message to the
merka won Algeria’s first- ing a claim for three-time World Footballer of the Year Zinedine Zidane Meccans. Mohammed soon gathered a significant following in his cam-
ever Olympic Gold Medal who in return is quite publicly proud of his Kabylie Algerian roots. paign against Meccan idolaters and his movement appealed especially to
in the women’s 1500m Another important sport among Algerians is athletics. The Algerian the poorer, disenfranchised sections of society.
running. Boulmerka’s national team came third at the 1999 African Games. Algeria’s plans to Islam provided a simpler alternative to the established faiths which had
feat was emulated four host the 2007 African Games were thrown into disarray when Algeria become complicated by hierarchical orders, sects and complex rituals, of-
years later by Noureddine was suspended from international track and field competitions due to fering instead a direct relationship with God based only on the believer’s
Morceli, who won gold in government interference in the sport. submission to God (‘Islam’ means submission).
the men’s 1500m. Other popular sports include volleyball, handball, boxing and martial Among Mecca’s ruling families, however, there was a dawning recog-
arts, including a Maghrebi martial art known as El-Matreg in which nition of the new faith’s potential to sweep aside the old order. By 622,
two players fight using long sticks. In southern desert regions, horse these families had forced Mohammed and his followers to flee north to
and camel racing are popular, especially among the Tuareg during local the oasis town of Medina. There, Mohammed’s supporters rapidly grew
festivals. in number. In 630, Mohammed returned triumphantly to Mecca at the
head of a 10,000-strong army to seize control of the city. Many of the
MEDIA surrounding tribes quickly swore allegiance to him and the new faith.
Radio and TV stations are government-owned and content is strictly When Mohammed died in 632, the Arab tribes spread with mission-
controlled, which is the major reason why most Algerians tune into satel- ary zeal, quickly conquering all of what is now the Middle East. By 670,
lite TV stations from France and across the Arab world. When it comes the armies of Islam had arrived in Algeria and they had established
to newspapers, many are privately owned and do – somewhat bravely, it themselves in Andalusia by 710, an astonishing achievement given the
Muslims attribute a
must be said – criticise the government on a regular basis. That said, it is religion’s humble desert roots.
place of great respect to
a criminal offence punishable by prison sentence to ‘insult’ or ‘defame’ the
Christians and Jews as ahl
president, members of parliament, judges or the army; Algerian newspa- THE QURAN
al-kitab, the People of the
pers mark the passage of this law with an annual ‘day without newspapers’. For Muslims, the Quran is the word of God, directly communicated to
Book (sura 2: 100–115).
The government has proved itself more than willing to abuse this law and the Prophet Mohammed; unlike the Torah and Bible, which are the inter-
However, Muslims
in 2005 alone, 114 journalists were prosecuted under the law, of whom 111 pretative work of many individuals, the Quran is believed by Muslims to
believe the Quran is the
were fined or sent to prison. Newspapers that openly campaigned against be the direct word of Allah. It contains 114 suras (chapters) which govern
final expression of Allah’s
the re-election of President Bouteflika are particularly targeted. all aspects of a Muslim’s life, from their relationship with God to minute
According to Report- will and the definitive
Internet censorship is less prevalent, although the Paris-based Report- details about daily living (p47).
ers Without Borders guide to his intentions for
ers Without Borders speculates that this may be more to do with govern- In addition to drawing on moral ideas prevalent in 7th century Arabia,
(www.rsf.org), Algeria humankind.
ment ignorance than any new spirit of openness. some of the Quran’s laws closely resemble those of the other monotheistic
ranks 126th out of 167
Algerian journalists not only have to run the gauntlet of government faiths, particularly the doctrinal elements of Judaism and the piety of
countries in a ranking of
paranoia, but have also been targeted by Algeria’s militant Islamist op- early eastern Christianity. The suras contain many references to the ear-
world press freedom.
position. Between 1993 and 1997, 57 journalists were killed, with most lier prophets – Adam, Abraham (Ibrahim), Noah, Moses (Moussa) and
murders blamed on armed Islamist groups. Although the situation has Jesus (although Muslims strictly deny his divinity) are all recognised as
improved, journalism is still a perilous occupation in Algeria. prophets in a line that ends definitively with the greatest of them all, the
Prophet Mohammed; 21 of the 28 prophets are mentioned in the Bible.
RELIGION It is not known whether the revelations were written down during
Sunni Islam is the official state religion in Algeria, adhered to by an Mohammed’s lifetime. The third caliph, Uthman (644–656), gathered
estimated 99% of the population and one of the few things which unites together everything written by the scribes and gave them to a panel of
Algeria’s often fractious population. There are also Christian communi- editors under the caliph’s aegis. A Quran printed today is identical to that
ties that are more historically than numerically significant. agreed upon by Uthman’s compilers 14 centuries ago.
Another important aspect of the Quran is the language in which it
Islam is written. Some Muslims believe that the Quran must be studied in its
THE BIRTH OF ISLAM original classical Arabic form (‘an Arabic Quran, wherein there is no
Abdul Qasim Mohammed ibn Abdullah ibn Abd al-Muttalib ibn Hashim crookedness’, sura 39:25) and that translations dilute the holiness of its
(the Prophet Mohammed) was born in AD 570 in Mecca in what is now sacred texts. For Muslims, the language of the Quran is known as sihr
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halal (lawful magic). Apart from its religious significance, the Quran, The house belonging to the Prophet Mohammed is said to have pro-
lyrical and poetic, is also considered one of the finest literary masterpieces vided the prototype for the plan of the mosque. The original setting was
in history. an enclosed, oblong courtyard with huts (housing Mohammed’s wives)
along one wall and a rough portico providing shade. This plan developed
THE FIVE PILLARS OF ISLAM with the courtyard becoming the sahn, the portico the arcaded riwaqs
To live a devout life and as an expression of submission to Allah, a Mus- and the haram the prayer hall. The prayer hall is typically divided into a
lim is expected to adhere to the Five Pillars of Islam. series of aisles; the centre aisle is wider than the rest and leads to a vaulted
niche in the wall called the mihrab – this indicates the direction of Mecca,
Profession of Faith (Shahada) which Muslims must face when they pray.
This is the basic tenet of Islam: ‘There is no God but Allah and Moham- Islam does not have priests as such. The closest equivalent is the
med is his prophet’ (La illaha illa Allah Mohammed rasul Allah). It is mosque’s imam, a man schooled in Islam and Islamic law. He often
commonly heard as part of the call to prayer and at other events such doubles as the muezzin, who calls the faithful to prayer from the tower
as births and deaths. of the minaret – except these days recorded cassettes and loudspeakers do
away with the need for him to climb up there. At the main Friday noon
Prayer (Sala) prayers, the imam gives a khutba (sermon) from the minbar, a wooden
Ideally, devout Muslims will pray five times a day when the muezzins call pulpit that stands beside the mihrab. In older, grander mosques, these
upon the faithful, usually at sunrise, noon, mid-afternoon, sunset and minbars are often beautifully decorated.
night. Although Muslims can pray anywhere (only the noon prayer on Before entering the prayer hall and participating in communal worship,
Friday should be conducted in the mosque), a strong sense of community a Muslim must perform a ritual washing of the hands, forearms, face and
makes joining together in a mosque preferable to praying elsewhere. neck. For this purpose, mosques have traditionally had a large ablutions
fountain at the centre of the courtyard, often carved from marble and worn
Alms-Giving (Zakat) by centuries of use. These days, modern mosques have rows of taps.
Covering Islam (1981), by Alms-giving to the poor was, from the start, an essential part of Islamic The mosque also serves as a kind of community centre, and often you’ll
Edward Said, is a searing social teaching and was later developed in some parts of the Muslim find groups of children or adults receiving lessons (usually in the Quran),
study of how stereotypes world into various forms of tax to redistribute funds to the needy. The people in quiet prayer and others simply dozing – mosques provide
have shaped our view of moral obligation towards one’s poorer neighbours continues to be em- wonderfully tranquil havens from the chaos of the street.
Islam, Muslims and the phasised at a personal level, and it is not unusual to find exhortations to Most Algerian mosques are officially off limits to non-Muslims, al-
Middle East. Although the give alms posted up outside some mosques. Traditionally Muslims are though permission can often be obtained from the imam between morn-
examples used are dated, expected to give a 40th of their annual income as alms to the poor. ing and noon prayers. You must dress modestly.
the book remains as
relevant today as when it Fasting (Sawm) THE CALL TO PRAYER
was written. Ramadan, the ninth month of the Muslim calendar, commemorates Allahu akbar, Allahu akbar
the revelation of the Quran to Mohammed. In a demonstration of a Ashhadu an la Ilah ila Allah
renewal of faith, Muslims are asked to abstain from sex and from letting Ashhadu an Mohammed rasul Allah
anything pass their lips from sunrise to sunset every day of the month. Haya ala as-sala
This includes smoking. For the dates when Ramadan commences over Haya ala as-sala
Islam: A Short History
the coming years, see the boxed text, p202.
(2006), by Karen Arm-
The soundtrack to your visit to Algeria will be this haunting invocation,
strong, is an accessible
Pilgrimage (Haj) a ritual whose essential meaning and power remain largely unchanged
and sympathetic record of
The pinnacle of a devout Muslim’s life is the pilgrimage to the holy in 14 centuries.
the world’s fastest-
sites in and around Mecca. Every Muslim capable of affording it should Five times a day, Muslims are called, if not actually to enter a mosque
growing religion without
perform the Haj to Mecca at least once in their lifetime. The reward is to pray, at least to take the time to do so where they are. The noon prayers
the sensationalism.
considerable – the forgiving of all past sins. Ideally, the pilgrim should on Friday, when the imam of the mosque delivers his weekly khutba, are
go to Mecca in the last month of the lunar year, and the returned pilgrim considered the most important. For Muslims, prayer is less a petition to
can be addressed as Haji, a term of great respect. In villages at least, it Allah (in the Christian sense) than a re-affirmation of Allah’s power and
is not uncommon to see the word ‘Al-Haj’ and simple scenes painted a reassertion of the brotherhood and equality of all believers.
on the walls of houses, showing that their inhabitants have made the The act of praying consists of a series of predefined ablutions and
pilgrimage. then movements of the body and recitals of prayers and passages of the
Quran, all designed to express the believer’s absolute humility and Al-
THE MOSQUE lah’s sovereignty.
Embodying the Islamic faith, and representing its most predominant
architectural feature, is the mosque, or masjed or jama’a. The building ISLAMIC CUSTOMS
was developed in the very early days of Islam and takes its form from In everyday life, Muslims are prohibited from drinking alcohol (sura
the simple, private houses where believers would customarily gather for 5:90–95) and eating carrion, blood products or pork which are consid-
worship. ered unclean (sura 2:165), the meat of animals not killed in the prescribed
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manner (sura 5:1–5) and food over which has not been said the name Islam took longer to spread to the far south of Algeria, whose history
of Allah (sura 6:115). Adultery (sura 18:30–35), theft (sura 5:40–45) and is to a large extent separate: only in the 15th century were the Tuareg
gambling (sura 5:90–95) are also prohibited. finally converted to Islam.
Islam is not just about prohibitions but also marks the important The leading strands of Islamic thought brought transformations to
events of a Muslim’s life. When a baby is born, the first words uttered Algerian life, many of which survive to this day. The orthodox Sunnis
to it are the call to prayer. A week later follows a ceremony in which the divided into four schools (madhab) of Islamic law, each lending more
baby’s head is shaved and an animal is sacrificed in remembrance of or less importance to various aspects of religious doctrine. In Algeria,
Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his son to Allah. The major event of a as elsewhere in the Maghreb, the Maliki rite of Sunni Islam came to
boy’s childhood is circumcision, which normally takes place between the predominate and still does. Founded by Malik ibn As, an Islamic judge
ages of seven and 12. When a person dies, a burial service is held at the who lived in Medina from AD 715 to 795, it is based on the practice
mosque and the body is buried with the feet facing Mecca. which prevailed in Medina in the 8th century. The generally tolerant
Maliki school of Islamic thought preaches the primacy of the Quran (as
ISLAM IN ALGERIA opposed to later teachings). ‘The holy
Although Islam arrived in northern Algeria in AD 670, it was not until The holy fasting month of Ramadan (see p46) is taken extremely seri- fasting
711 that the north of the country yielded to the new faith. The initial ously in Algeria and is universally and very publicly observed. For details month of
conquests, which included the taking of Algeria, were carried out under on the implications of travelling in Algeria during Ramadan, see p14.
the caliphs, or Companions of Mohammed, of whom there were four. In addition to mainstream Sunni practice, there are also small com- Ramadan
They in turn were followed by the Umayyad dynasty (AD 661–750) munities of Ibadis (see the boxed text, opposite) in the M’Zab region. As is taken
with its capital in Damascus and then the Abbasid line (AD 749–1258) with elsewhere in North Africa, there have been significant communities extremely
in Baghdad (in modern Iraq). Given that these centres of Islamic power of Sufis in the country for much of Algeria’s history; the many Algerian
were so geographically removed from Algeria, the religion of Islam may town names beginning with ‘Sidi’ testify to this fact. Current figures seriously in
have taken a hold, but the political and administrative control which ac- regarding Sufi adherence are not known, although its influence waned Algeria’
companied Islamic rule elsewhere was much more tenuous in Algeria. in the wake of the Islamic scholar Abdelhamid ben Badis who preached
against traditional marabouts, established a network of Sunni schools
and demanded a return to orthodoxy in the early 20th century.
THE IBADIS OF ALGERIA Islam also provided a rallying cry for opposition to a succession of
Algeria may be almost universally Sunni in outlook, but the M’Zab, close to Ghardaïa, is famous governments in the second half of the 20th century. During the Algerian
for being home to a small community of Ibadi Muslims. War of Independence, nationalist fighters called themselves mujahedin
The Ibadis are an offshoot of the Kharijite sect, whose name literally means ‘seceders’ or ‘those (warriors of jihad), Algerian dead were routinely referred to as chouhada
who emerge from impropriety’. The Kharijites’ origins lie in the bitter struggle for leadership over (martyrs) and a return to Islamic principles was central to the independ-
the Muslim community in the wake of the Prophet Mohammed’s death. Kharijites, who recognise ence movement’s platforms.
only the first two Muslim caliphs as legitimate and believe in the absolute equality of all Muslims Mindful of the mobilising power of Islam in Algeria, successive post-
regardless of race, became renowned for their fierce and uncompromising belief in the primacy independence governments sought to monopolise public Islam and keep
of the Quran rather than in loyalty to corrupt, supposedly Muslim authorities. As such, Kharijism the Islamic establishment firmly within its control by appointing imams
has always been an ideology of rebellion. and keeping a close eye on all mosques. Such policies proved useless
Not surprisingly, the egalitarian Kharijite theology appealed almost instantly to the Berbers of in holding back the march of militant Islam and when the Islamic Salva-
Algeria. In particular, the doctrine that any Muslim could become caliph, which questioned the tion Front (FIS) won the first round of the 1991 elections, the resulting
Arab monopoly over Muslim legitimacy, was of great appeal. Thus it was that the Kharijite mission- tension spilled over into outright war; see p35 for more information.
aries who actively courted the Berbers in Islam’s early days in Algeria enjoyed great success. Although the war has largely ended, Islam remains at the centre of
One of the leading strands of Kharijite thought was developed by one Abdullah ibn Ibad. This public life and has come to be the fault line at the heart of Algerian
founder of the Ibadis espoused many Kharijite teachings, such as anti-authoritarianism and the society – between adherents of militant Islam and predominantly
strictest adherence to the Quran, but also developed a more tolerant outlook than his somewhat middle-class, moderate Muslims. In elections in 2002, legal Islamist
fanatical Kharijite predecessors, especially in his dealings with other Muslims. Ibadism quickly parties won 20% of the vote.
became a major power in Algerian life. From AD 778 until 909, much of Algeria was ruled by the
Ibadi imams known as the Rustamids. The Rustamids presided over a period of stability, encour- Christianity
aged scholarship and the arts, and were notable for their piety and lack of corruption. Although exact figures can be difficult to come by, it is estimated that
After the Rustamids were swept away by the Shiite Fatimids, Ibadi refugees retreated to the there are fewer than 5000 Christians in Algeria, most of whom are Euro-
five oases of the M’Zab in the 11th century, where they have remained until this day. They peans or nationals of other Western countries. The Algerian constitution
are now frequently known as the Mozabites; for more information on this community, see the forbids discrimination based on religious belief, although a 2006 law
boxed text, p160. Many Algerian Ibadis or Mozabites now reject the use of the term Kharijite to makes proselytising for Christianity a criminal offence punishable by a
describe their community. one- to three-year jail term and prohibits non-Muslim worship outside
Ibadism is now extremely rare in the Middle East. Apart from the M’Zab oases, other small of state-approved churches.
Ibadi communities are found only in Jerba (Tunisia), the Jebel Nafusa (northwestern Libya), Oman The fact that Algeria now has a tiny Christian community belies the
and Zanzibar. fact that two towering figures in Christian church history spent much of
their lives in what is now Algeria.
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even in once liberal Algiers. These vary from the lacy, white handkerchief-
THE WHITE FATHERS
type ones worn in the north, which cover just the lower half of the face, to
One of the most enduring Christian presences in Algeria is the missionary society which is popu- the robes worn by the women of the M’Zab (the area around Ghardaïa),
larly known as the Pères Blancs (White Fathers). Founded by Cardinal Lavigerie, the Bishop of which are held together in such a way that only one eye is visible.
Algiers, as the Missionaries of Our Lady of Africa of Algeria in 1868, the society for teaching Arab Apart from violence, it was the 1984 Family Code that set back the
orphans quickly evolved into a society with grand plans for the conversion of Africa. In 1876, cause of women’s rights by decades. Effectively reducing women to the
and again in 1881, two caravans of missionaries set out from southern Algeria but they were status of minors, the law has not been amended in the decades since.
massacred en route to Sudan. An 1878 caravan proved more successful and laid the groundwork President Bouteflika ordered a review of the law in 2003, but like so
for missions in 42 African countries. many presidential promises of gender equality, the results have been a
One year after founding the White Fathers, Cardinal Lavigerie founded a sister group for nuns, severe disappointment for Algerian women. Despite assuring Algerian
known as the Congregation of the Missionary Sisters of Our Lady of Africa. women in 2004 that the government was ready to help them break free
The White Fathers, who still have their headquarters in Algeria, are unusual in that the rules from the social constraints of a patriarchal society and enjoy their full
of their mission require that members live in community homes of no fewer than three people, constitutional rights, the president has let the review disappear without
speak the language of the local people among whom they live, eat local food and wear local a trace after conservative critics of the government opposed it.
dress. Therein lies the reason behind the group’s unusual name: their dress closely resembles In January 2007, the UN sent its Human Rights Council’s Special
the robes of Algerian Arabs, with a cassock and a burnous. Rapporteur on violence against women on a fact-finding mission to
The first mission by the White Fathers was established among the Berbers of Jurjura, and Algeria. The Special Rapporteur’s report is not expected to bring back
missions throughout the Sahara later became their trademark. Visitors are welcome to visit the much positive news.
White Fathers hermitage and library in Ghardaïa (p158).
ARTS
Architecture
St Augustine served as the Bishop of Hippo Regius (now Annaba) From the claustrophobic clamour of Algiers’ Unesco World Heritage–listed
from AD 393 to 430 and it was during this period that he developed the Casbah to the red and white earth tones of the Saharan oases, Algerian ar-
theology that would become so influential in the teachings of the early chitecture is a highlight of any visit to Algeria. Particularly in the north of
church. He was also one of the first Christian theologians to espouse the the country, much of what you’ll see is a fusion of styles – Roman, Byzan-
idea of ‘just war’. For more information on the saint’s life, see the boxed tine, Spanish, Ottoman, French and indigenous Islamic to name a few.
text, p113. Examples of this often incongruous but always eye-catching combi-
One of the most singular figures of 20th-century Christianity was nation, the Souk el-Ghazal Mosque (p119) and Grand Mosque (p119)
Charles de Foucauld (see the boxed text, p189), who retreated into the in Constantine date from the 18th and 14th centuries respectively and
Sahara where he worked among the Tuareg and lived an ascetic life as a include Roman-era granite columns and Corinthian capitals as essential
Trappist monk. His simple stone hermitage at Assekrem (p188), whose elements of their structures.
name means ‘the End of the World’, is still home to a small number of
monks from his order and can be visited. OTTOMAN ARCHITECTURE
The rise of Christian Spain in the late 15th century brought to bear two
WOMEN IN ALGERIA important influences on the Algerian architectural landscape. The first
Despite having played a leading role in Algeria’s struggle for independ- was the arrival of Muslim refugees from Andalusia who brought with
ence, life since then has been difficult for Algerian women. them new ideas regarding architecture. The second was less direct: in a
In official terms, the situation is reasonable by regional standards. bid to counter growing Spanish influence, rulers in the Maghreb turned
The Algerian constitution guarantees gender equality and Algeria rati-
fied the Convention on the Elimination of All Forms of Discrimination
Women make up 27% ALGERIAN ARCHITECTURE – THE HIGHLIGHTS
against Women (Cedaw) in 1996, albeit with reservations. Later legisla-
of civil servants and
tive provisions, particularly in relation to work, extended the principle Roman – Tipaza (p104); Hippo Regius (p113); Timgad (p126); and Djemila (p132)
almost 60% of secondary
of equality into the labour market.
school teachers, and a Byzantine – Djemaa Ali Bitchine (p93) and Notre Dame d’Afrique (p95) in Algiers
That’s the good news.
record number of women Early Islamic – Mosque and Tomb of Sidi Boumediene (p149) and Grand Mosque (p148) in
The bad news is that violence against women is rife and women have
candidates contested the Tlemcen
been targeted by Islamist militants since the early 1990s. A strong tradi-
2002 elections.
tion of female activism meant that the Algiers of a few years ago is recalled Spanish – Bey’s Palace (p142) and Fort of Santa Cruz (p142) in Oran
as a place where dress codes were relatively relaxed. What to wear has, Ottoman – Dar Khedaoudl el-Amia (p94), Dar Hassan Pacha (p94) and the Palais des Raïs
however, become a much tougher decision since Islamic militants in the Bastion 23 (p95) in Algiers; Palace of Ahmed Bey (p119) in Constantine
early 1990s shot dead a schoolgirl in the street for not wearing a veil – and
French – Place du 1 Novembre (p141) in Oran
two veiled students were killed in retaliation as they waited for a school
bus. ‘You’ll die if you don’t wear the veil. You’ll die if you do wear the veil, Saharan – Ghardaïa (p156); Beni Abbès (p166); Timimoun (p169); El-Oued (p172); In Salah
too. So shut up and die’, wrote poet Tahar Djaout before he himself was (p181); Djanet (p191)
killed in 1993. The cycle of violence may have abated, but Algeria’s public Modern – Sidi M’Cid Bridge (p119) in Constantine and Makam Echahid (p96) in Algiers
face is now extremely conservative and the majority of women wear veils,
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east towards the Turkish Ottoman Empire, and Algiers in particular Cinema
benefited from this shift in focus. Ottoman architecture remained the From Chronicle of the Year of Embers (directed by Mohammed Lakh-
dominant force until the arrival of the French in the 19th century. dar-Hamina), which won the prestigious Palme d’Or at the Cannes Film
The first building erected by the Ottomans was the Djemaa el-Djedid Festival in 1975, to Rachid Bouchareb’s Oscar-nominated Days of Glory
(p93) in 1660. Its Ottoman-style dome is still the most recognisable Ot- in 2007, Algerian film has been charming international critics for dec-
La Guerre sans Nom (The
toman landmark in Algeria, although the Andalusian influence evident ades. That doesn’t necessarily translate into regional audience numbers
War Without a Name),
in the minaret is typical of the time when a Moorish style still held sway. to match Egypt’s blockbuster industry. Nor does it convert into the
by director Bertrand
Much of the Islamic architecture in northern Algeria would later be government funding the industry deserves – like so many film industries
Tavernier, is a docu-
Islam: Art & Architecture, destroyed or, more often, converted by the French to serve a Christian the world over, Algeria’s is facing a shortage of funds that is crippling
mentary which consists
by Markus Hattstein and purpose. Although these buildings were returned to their original func- the creative works of its directors. But if quality is the touchstone, the
entirely of meaningful
Peter Delius, is compre- tions after independence, many now bear traces of colonial meddling. Algerian film industry is in rude health.
interviews with French
hensive and beautifully The Djemaa Ketchoua (p94), also in Algiers, was used as a cathedral by The first sign that Algerian film would become one of the most inven-
veterans of Algeria’s War
illustrated and contains the French, although, thankfully, they made few alterations. The Djemaa tive in the world came in 1965 with The Battle of Algiers. Written and
of Independence.
numerous references Safir was one of the last Ottoman-built mosques in the capital. directed by the Italian Gillo Pontecorvo, this relentlessly compelling
to the architecture of The Ottomans left largely unscathed the overhanging buildings, representation of urban guerrilla warfare on the streets of Algiers none-
Algeria and its historical wooden bay windows and delicate stucco work of the Casbah, primarily theless owed much to Algerian creativity and suggested that Algerians
context. because they settled largely in the lower part of the city. Elsewhere most had a natural affinity with the silver screen. The film, which remains a
Ottoman palaces and townhouses featured an L-shaped entrance which cult hit, was funded by the Algerian government and almost all of the
led into an interior marble-paved courtyard surrounded by porticoes, actors were ordinary Algerians.
horse-shoe arches and mosaic tiles on four sides. The Dar Hassan Pacha Algerian directors would quickly show that they, too, were capable
(p94), also in Algiers, is a particularly fine example. of tackling the big themes and doing so with panache. Not surprisingly,
given its impact on Algerian society, the 1954–62 Algerian War of Inde-
SAHARAN ARCHITECTURE pendence would become a recurring muse for Algerian directors. This
Although new towns have grown up alongside them, the huddled dwell- cluster of war films served as a platform for later directors to tackle the
ings of the oasis towns of the Sahara still use ancient building methods – serious issues of Algerian society and exile with an unflinching gaze –
sun-baked mud, straw and palm products, flat roofs – that are well one of the defining characteristics of Algerian film. It can make for har-
suited to the harsh demands of desert life. In smaller settlements, many rowing viewing but it’s the sort of cinema that has the power to change
traditional flat-roofed Saharan houses have been neglected to the point the way you think about the world.
of dereliction as a result of the relocation of their residents to modern A case in point was Mohamed Rachid Benhadj’s Desert Rose (1989),
housing elsewhere. Many such houses are vulnerable to rare but devastat- which has an almost claustrophobic intensity and which some critics
ing downpours. see as a coming-of-age for Algerian cinema. The film recounts the story
of a seriously handicapped man in a remote oasis village. Benhadj has Arab Film Distribution
described Mousa, the main character, as ‘a symbol of Algeria, of the (www.arabfilm.com) has
TRANSFORMING ALGIERS Third World in general, formed by rigid beliefs and intolerance, but now a good list of Algerian
Algiers long ago expanded seemingly beyond the capacity of its traditional architecture to having to redefine itself as all the alibis on which its place in the world films with plot synopses
cope. The Casbah, for example, is believed to have lost more than a thousand homes since depended begin to fall away.’ and details of how to buy
independence because its cramped conditions can no longer meet the growing needs of the Another fine example is the critically acclaimed Rachida (2002) by them on DVD.
population. This is a major reason why Unesco inscribed the Casbah on its World Heritage list Yamina Bachir-Chouikh, in which a young teacher is shot by terrorists
of endangered sites in 1992. after she refuses to plant a bomb in a school. Rachida also represented the
But there is also something about Algiers that captures the imagination – its clamour, its directing debut for this highly talented female director, who had written
Mediterranean fusion of French refinement with Arab-Islamic aesthetics – and it has drawn some the screenplay for the 1976 classic Omar Gatlato by Merzak Allouache
of France’s most eminent architects. Le Corbusier spent much of the 1930s developing 12 am- (see the boxed text, p54).
bitious projects for the rejuvenation of Algiers, only to discover that this is a difficult city to Similarly, the French-born Algerian director Bourlem Guerdjou won
tame – not one of the 12 came to fruition. awards for Living in Paradise (1997) which looks at the dislocated lives
More successful was Fernand Pouillon, whose sympathetic incorporation of traditional archi- of Algerian exiles living in France. His 2005 offering, Zaina: Rider of the
tectural styles in urban Algiers won him plaudits in France and Algeria alike. His reconstruction Atlas, is also outstanding.
of the entire neighbourhood of Diar Essada in the mid-1950s was followed by simliar success in The Palestinian tragedy has also proved to be the perfect subject
the neighbourhoods of Diar Mahçoul and Climat de France. Pouillon later renovated one of the matter for Algerian directors, most notably in Nakhla (1979) by Farouk
churches he built in Diar Essada as part of its postindependence conversion back into a mosque. Beloufa. Few Algerian movies have been as warmly praised by critics
Although commissioned by the French, Diar Essada became a postindependence icon for confi- and so fiercely targeted by government censors.
dence in doing things the Algerian way to such an extent that it appeared on one of independent The already mentioned Mohammed Lakhdar-Hamina has had one of
Algeria’s first banknotes. Elsewhere, Pouillon was also extremely active in seeking to build tourist the most distinguished careers, gaining no fewer than four nominations
resorts along the Algerian coast that were both environmentally sustainable and incorporated (one successful) for the Palme d’Or at Cannes. His filmography began
into the local landscape. The Hôtel Gourara in Timimoun is another Pouillon creation. with The Winds of the Aures (1966) and drew to an equally impressive
close with La Dernière Image (1986).
of status (some are also used in weddings by women); and ornamental

MERZAK ALLOUACHE silver daggers with leather hilts.
Amid Algeria’s star-studded film industry, there is one director who stands out above all the Almost as interesting as the silverwork are the ‘artists’ who create it.
rest: Merzak Allouache. Tuareg blacksmiths (Inaden) have always occupied a special place within
Born in Algiers in 1944, the award-winning Merzak Allouache witnessed first-hand the devas- Tuareg society, perhaps because of their dark communion with fire, iron
tation caused by Algeria’s War of Independence before studying film-making at the renowned and precious metals. At one level, the Inaden were traditionally looked
Institut des Hautes Études Cinématographiques (Idhec) in Paris. Known for his searing realism down upon by noble Tuareg because the blacksmiths are darker-skinned
and the use of Algerian street dialect, he made the first of 16 feature films, Omar Gatlato, which than other Tuareg and they lived on the margins of Tuareg villages and
marked him out as a special talent. That film is widely seen as having definitively proved – both encampments. At the same time, the Inaden were purveyors of traditional Art of Being Tuareg –
to critics and an Algerian audience – that Algerian cinema could combine both serious issues medicines, custodians of oral traditions and go-betweens in marriage ne- Sahara Nomads in a
and popular appeal. Allouache chose to shoot the movie in the Bab el-Oued district of Algiers, gotiations. As such, they are essential figures in most Tuareg ceremonies. Modern World (2006)
a location to which he returned for Bab el-Oued City (1994), which won the International Critics’ Shunning a blacksmith is considered taboo in Tuareg society. is a stunning pictorial
Prize at Cannes. The highlights of his glittering career include the following films: study of Tuareg life with
Omar Gatlato (1976) The aimless lives of young Algiers men are the subject of Allouache’s first feature and the Literature informative essays on
empty bravado, dislocation and hollow dreams of North African youth have never been better depicted. Algerian writers first made a name for themselves during the French Tuareg culture, including
Following October (L’Après-Octobre; 1989) One of his rare forays into the world of documentary film-making to colonial period when many found a market in France for their novels. poetry, music and the
recount the riots in the suburbs of Paris in 1988. Foremost among them was Tlemcen-born Mohammed Dib (1920–2003), role of women.
Bab el-Oued City (1994) The creeping violence and fear gripping Algeria in 1993 as Allouache was filming infuse who wrote more than 30 novels, plus works of poetry, short stories and
every moment of this landmark film about two conflicted, flawed, utterly human young fundamentalists. children’s books. Although writing in the language of the occupiers, Dib
Hey Cousin (Salut Cousin; 1996) The in-between-cultures angst of the children of Algerian immigrants in France is and his contemporaries reclaimed the language as their own. Awarded
interspersed with rare flashes of humour in one of Allouache’s best films of the 1990s. the Grand Prix de la Francophonie de l’Academie Francaise in 1994, Dib
The Other World (L’Autre Monde; 2001) Algerians in exile and the worrying but irresistible call of the homeland is seen by many as the father of modern Algerian literature. Sadly, few
provide the most enlightening and heart-rending moments of the Algerian civil war yet captured on film. of his works have been translated into English, but The Savage Night, a
13-storey compendium, is an excellent window on Dib’s world.
Kateb Yacine (1929–89) was a contemporary of Dib and was also con-
One of the most impressive recent debuts came with Djamila Sah- sidered one of North Africa’s finest writers of the 20th century. His land-
raoui’s 2006 debut Barakat!. This excellent film follows the travails of an mark novel Nedjma interweaves family history with the Algerian War
emergency doctor who returns home in 1991 to find that her husband of Independence and is considered one of the most important French-
has disappeared and has most likely been kidnapped by Islamist rebels. language novels ever written in the Maghreb. Jean Amrouche (1907–62)
She is accompanied on her search by an older nurse who is a veteran of was another important pioneer of Algerian writing in French.
the independence struggle and the story becomes an intergenerational It is also impossible to talk of Algerian literature of the period without
exploration of modern Algeria. It is outstanding. paying homage to Albert Camus (1913–60), a pied-noir (see p42) who
Tony Gatlif, who was born as Michel Dahmani in Algiers in 1948, is won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1957 and is considered one of the
one of France’s most respected directors. His La Terre au Ventre (1979) towering figures of French literature and existentialist thought.
is a story of the Algerian War of Independence, while Exils (2004), about Frantz Fanon (1925–61) was born in Martinique but will be forever
Algerian exiles on their journey home, won a Best Director award at associated with Algeria for his work The Wretched of the Earth, which
Cannes. was based on his experiences during the Algerian War of Independence
‘Tuareg and is considered an important revolutionary book.
silver Jewellery After independence, Algerian writers found themselves confronted
Although largely functional in purpose, Tuareg silver jewellery has with the highly political question of which language to write in. French
jewellery evolved into an art form in its own right which is highly sought after by ensured a wider audience but was tarnished with a colonial brush. Ara-
is highly Western collectors. bic was politically correct, but limited the author to a small, local book-
sought The most unusual item is the croix d’Agadez (a stylised Tuareg cross buying market. Tamazigh was itself a fraught choice for both political
of silver with intricate filigree designs) named after Agadez in Niger. and economic reasons.
after‘ Every town and region with a significant Tuareg population has its own The highly regarded Rachid Boudjedra (b 1941) chooses to write
unique version of the cross and by some estimates there are 36 differ- in Arabic and produce his own translations into French. Mohamed
ent versions. Although European explorers saw the design as evidence Khaireddine chooses to write in French as an act of cultural resistance
of prior Christianity, traditional Tuareg see them as powerful talismans because Tamazigh is forbidden. Other writers from the Kabylie region
designed to protect against ill fortune and the evil eye. Some also serve as and for whom Berber identity plays a critical role include Marguerite
fertility symbols. The crosses are still used by Tuareg men as currency (eg Taos Amrouche (1913–76) and Mouloud Mammeri (1917–89). Across
for buying camels), although these days this is rare in Algeria. At other the cultural divide, Tahir Wattar chooses to write in Arabic, although
times, the crosses are worn by their wives as a sign of wealth. his work The Earthquake is widely available in English.
Other silver items include: a wide range of silver necklaces (those con- The perils faced by Algerian writers are by no means restricted to lan-
taining amber are generally from across the border in Niger); striking, guage. In 1993, Tahar Djaout (The Watchers and The Last Summer of Rea-
square, silver amulets that are worn around the neck by elders as a symbol son), a proudly secular novelist from the Kabylie region, was assassinated.
TOP FIVE CONTEMPORARY ALGERIAN NOVELS RAI MUSIC Jane Cornwell

So Vast the Prison by Assia Djebar Want to know what Algerians on the street are thinking? Check out the country’s most popular
music genre: rai. Meaning ‘state an opinion’, rai – rhymes with eye – is ubiquitous in Algeria.
The Star of Algiers by Aziz Chouaki Danceable, infectious and buoyed by synthesisers and drum machines, it pulses through windows,
The Lovers of Algeria by Anouar Benmalek from car stereos, around markets and beyond. Lyrics in Arabic and French tell of the pain and
Sherazade by Leila Sebbar joy of daily life, of betrayal and exile, lust and love. It’s hardly surprising, then, that rai turns con-
servative Islamic groups apoplectic. Cassettes have been confiscated at road blocks, performers
The Last Summer of Reason by Tahar Djaout
threatened and worse. But for Algeria’s MTV-watching youth – the genre’s largest consumers –
modern rai is as rebellious and compelling as American rap.
One of the assassins later told police that Djaout was targeted because ‘he Rai originated in the 1930s in Oran, a metropolis then divided into Jewish, French, Spanish
wrote too well, he had an intelligent pen, and he was able to touch people; and Arab quarters. French colonisation saw these cultural influences mix with traditional Bedouin
because of this he was a danger to the fundamentalist ideology’. music and its flowery poetic singing, malhun. Many early rai singers were cheikhas – women
Women are among the leading crop of current Algerian writers whose who’d bucked Oran’s strict code of conduct and become entertainers and outcasts. The most
works have been translated and are widely available in English. Assia Djebar infamous of these was Cheikha Rimitti. An illiterate, feisty orphan who sang of sex and poverty
is the most widely known and her novels (Fantasia: An Algerian Cavalcade and recorded her first album in 1936, Rimitti (who drew a bird as an autograph) paved the way
and So Vast the Prison) and nonfiction (Algerian White and Women of for singers such as the reggae-and-funk-loving Khaled. She died in Paris in 2006, aged 83, having
Algiers in their Apartment) explore the role of women in Algerian society performed just two days beforehand.
through beautifully told stories. Another leading light is Leila Sebbar who Mass migration into the cities of western Algeria plus the attendant world depression cemented
moved to France aged 17 and whose novels (Sherazade and Silence on the rai as a genre – a blend of traditional Arabic elements, Western production and whatever else
Shores) centre around the lives of Algerian women living in France. took its fancy. Back then rai appealed to an underclass eager to be heard, its chebs and chabas
Other important contemporary Algerian novelists include Anouar (young men and women) articulating their mehna (hardship and suffering).
Benmalek (The Lovers of Algeria), Aziz Chouaki (The Star of Algiers) Rai came into its own in the ‘70s and ’80s. Fadela’s outspoken 1979 hit ‘Ana ma h’lali ennoum’
and the prolific Yasmina Khadra (the pen name of Mohammed Mou- gripped the country. Rachid Baba Ahmed threw in modern pop and became rai’s most impor-
lessehoul) who made his name with The Swallows of Kabul but whose tant producer. The first state-sanctioned Rai Festival in Oran in 1985 marked its emergence as a
Autumn of the Phantoms deals with more Algerian themes. nationally accepted genre. Then came civil war and encroaching fundamentalism. Cheb Hasni,
the great star of rai love, was gunned down in Oran in 1994; Rachid Baba Ahmed was killed a
Music few months later. Khaled, the King of Rai, whose song ‘El-Harba Wayn?’ became an anthem for
For a full run-down on the enduring Algerian music sensation that is rai, protestors, left for Paris after death threats. Others followed suit; France (and Egypt) is now home
see the boxed text, opposite. to a wealth of Algerian musicians including rai (ish) rocker Rachid Taha; chaabi-rai innovator Bilal;
and rai fusionist Cheb Mami, who recorded a duet, 2000’s ‘Desert Rose’, with Sting.
KABYLIE MUSIC Second-generation Algerians including Faudel, the self-styled Prince of Rai, continue to make waves
Although not as well known beyond Algeria’s shores, the music of the in Paris. The historic 1998 1,2,3 Soleil concert at Bercy stadium saw Khaled, Faudel and Rachid Taha
Berber (Amazigh) people of the Kabylie region of northeastern Algeria (respectively the King, Prince and Rebel of Rai) entertain a 15,000-strong crowd; the excellent live
is a mainstay of the local music scene. With its roots in the music and album is released by Barclay. Rai continues apace in Algeria: Houari Dauphin, Hasni’s successor, is
poetry of the Kabylie villages and in the exile and disaffection felt by huge. Chebs and chabas and their older, more traditional equivalents, cheikhs and cheikhas, sing in
many Amazigh in post-independence Algeria, Kabylie music has always clubs and cabarets, and at festivals including Oran each August. Their lyrics may be more benign than
provided something of a barometer for the health of Algerian society. those of their exiled, politicised colleagues, but their music still combines the best of all worlds.
Kabylie singers from the colonial era such as Slimane Azem (1918–83)
were, like many Kabylie, strong supporters of the push for Algerian inde- Must-have Albums
Azawan.com (www.aza
wan.com) is an extremely pendence. Azem’s song ‘Locusts, Leave My Country’ became a de facto Sahra by Khaled (Polygram 1997)
comprehensive website anthem for a generation of Algerians, both at home and in France. West- 1,2,3 Soleil (Barclay France 1999)
dedicated to showcasing ern icons of the 1960s such as Bob Dylan later influenced liberal-minded
Kabylie musicians who longed for their own counterculture revolution Dellali by Cheb Mami (Ark 21 2001)
the talents of Kabylie
musicians. in Algeria. The Kabylie uprising of the early 1980s heard voices such as N’ta Goudami by Cheikha Rimitti (Because 2006)
Djamel Allam’s (b 1947) and Matoub Lounès’ (1956–98) emerge as the Takitoi by Rachid Taha (Wrasse 2004)
soundtrack for a new generation of rebels; Lounès was to pay for his pas-
sionate advocacy for secularism and Amazigh rights in Algeria when he Baida by Faudel (Ark 21 1997)
was assassinated soon after he returned home from France in 1998. Lovers Rai by Cheb Hasni (Rounders Select 1997)
Female singers with Kabylie roots have also taken the world by storm,
most notably Paris-based Souad Massi (b 1972) whose debut Raoui (Story-
teller) was an instant hit in 2001. Her follow-up Deb – Heart Broken (2003) TUAREG MUSIC
was, if anything, even better. Iness Mêzel is another important female Although Algeria’s Tuareg have made few contributions to the desert
Kabylie singer, while male Kabylie singers to watch out for are Akli D, blues music that has become a cause célèbre for world music fans in 2005
Cheikh Sidi Bemol (www.louzine.net), Aït Menguellet and Takfarinas. and beyond, the country does have a claim to fame in this regard. The
58 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • F o o d 59
celebrated Tuareg group Tinariwen hail from the remote Kidal region of FOOD
northeastern Mali, but they spent much of the 1980s and 1990s in exile The food you’re likely to eat as a traveller in Algeria is unlikely to live long
as famine and then rebellion raged in their homeland. Part of that exile in the memory. Couscous with a meat or vegetable sauce, salads, rotis-
‘Tin Hinan... was spent in Tamanrasset and later in Libya. It was there that the band serie chicken, pizza and vegetable or lamb stews will be your staples.
definitely members learnt to play the guitar and much international success has Meal times in Algeria are broadly similar to what you may be used to
followed. at home. Breakfast is eaten generally until 9am or 10am, while lunch can
a name to Inspired by the success of groups such as Tinariwen and, more re- be any time from 1pm onwards. Dinner can begin any time between 6pm
watch out cently, Etran Finatawa from Niger, Tin Hinan is a young Algerian Tuareg and 8pm, although it’s more likely to be the former.
for’ group for whom critics are predicting great success and they’re definitely In restaurants, etiquette is mostly identical to what you’d find back home.
a name to watch out for. Many restaurants have separate family sections where unaccompanied men
are not permitted. You should avoid eating with the your left hand. At
Painting home, Algerians usually spread out a plastic tablecloth atop a carpet on the
Most discussions of Algerian painting centre around French artists, floor and eat with their hands from a communal bowl. Prior to eating, the
among them Delacroix, Renoir, Matisse and Fromentin, who visited host will usually bring a jug of water, soap and a small plastic receptacle
Algeria in the 19th century or early 20th century and whose work was and will then proceed to pour so that each guest can wash their hands.
transformed by a new approach to light and colour as a result. At home, Algerian families eat together, but when guests arrive, men and
This Eurocentric view of Algerian art reflects the fact that French colo- women usually eat separately; Western women are generally considered
nial rule in Algeria did little to provide education or support for local Mus- honorary men and in such circumstances the traditional rules of segrega-
lim Algerian artists. One artist who emerged during the colonial period tion probably don’t apply. As the meal commences, many say ‘bismillah’ (a
was Mohammed Racim (1896–1975), who began his career as a craftsman form of asking Allah to bless the meal). During the meal, the best morsels
illuminator in the Casbah of Algiers and went on to become a celebrated of meat will be gently pushed in the direction of an honoured guest. When
artist at home and in France. After meeting a French patron of the arts sated, Algerians will say ‘al-hamdu lillah’ (thanks be to God) whereupon ‘when sated,
at a workshop, Racim was commissioned to illustrate a lavish edition of other diners will encourage the person to eat more; if the person truly has Algerians
Arabian Nights and the project enabled him to move to Paris where he finished, someone will say ‘Saha, Saha’, meaning ‘good health’.
lived for eight years. Developing his skill as a miniaturist, he made stirring If you’re lucky, you may also come across tagine (a stew cooked in a say
if somewhat idealised representations of aristocratic Algiers. ceramic dish of the same name), while seafood provides some much- ‘al-hamdu
However, it was not until after independence in 1962 that Algerian needed variety in the north. Grilled meats are also something of a recur- lillah’ (thanks
artists truly began to flourish, most notably those known as the ‘Gen- ring theme (in the south, it may be camel meat), while the Spanish rice
eration of 1930’ – artists born in and around that year. One of the most dish paella makes a surprising (and downright welcome) appearance on be to God)’
celebrated was Baya Mahieddine (1931–98) who was born in Algiers and a few menus in better restaurants. Eggplant salads are also something of
was adopted by a French couple at age five. Never taught to read or write, an Algerian speciality, while the spicy harissa (a red-chilli paste) gives
Baya, as she is best known as a painter, instead taught herself to paint considerable zest to many dishes.
using gouache on paper and held her first exhibition in France aged just Like in most Middle Eastern and North African countries, vegetarian-
16. She came to the attention of such luminaries as André Breton and ism is something of an alien concept for Algerians. Vegetarians should
Pablo Picasso and her stellar career never looked back with exhibitions of always specify their requirements as soon as they arrive in the restaurant
vivid colours and abstract figures in Paris, Washington and Algiers. (ask for bidoon laham, without meat). Although most restaurants are
Mohammed Khadda (http://khadda.yellis.net/) was another eminent obliging and keen to make sure you don’t leave hungry, many won’t be
Algerian abstract painter (1930–91) who emerged in the post-independ- able to offer more than bread, salad, French fries, plain rice and perhaps
ence period after he, too, emigrated to Paris and worked under Picasso’s an omelette. Many soups are precooked and include meat as a matter of
careful eye. In the euphoria of independence, he turned his back on the course; often no substitute is available.
Western figurative tradition of fine arts in favour of representations of Other dishes you won’t come across often, but you’ll be glad when
Arabic letters in creative calligraphic forms. you do, include harira (thick, rich soup with chickpeas, lentils, meat
Other artists of note from the period include M’Hamed Issiakhem and coriander), merguez (spicy seasoned lamb or goat sausages), brik (a
(1928–85) and Choukri Mesli (b 1930) who both learned their trade at flaky, deep-fried envelope of pastry stuffed with all manner of things),
the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris. chorba (vegetable soup with noodles and meat) and kefta (meatballs made
More recent artists to take up Khadda’s calligraphic mantle include from seasoned, minced lamb). In Oran, the local speciality of brannieh
Majhoub ben Bella (b 1946) and Rachid Koraïchi (b 1947). Other painters (stew of lamb or beef with courgettes and chickpeas) is definitely worth
representative of the post-independence period include Ali Silem (b 1947), seeking out.
Redha Chikh Bled (b 1949), Hamid Tibouchi (b 1951), Samta Benyahia French-inspired dishes make an appearance in some top-end restau-
(b 1949) and Akila Mouhoubi (b 1953), while Slimane Ould Mohand rants of the north, and a coffee and a croissant have become a typically
(b 1966), Philippe Amrouche (b 1966), Raouf Brahmia (1965–) and Kamel Ya- Algerian way to start the day. Sweet pastries of myriad other descriptions
hiaoui (b 1966) are the great hopes for the next generation of Algerian art. are also popular.
For an excellent overview of Algerian art and works by European
Orientalist painters who visited Algeria, visit the Musée des Beaux Arts
(p97) in Algiers.
60 lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • T h e L a n d 61
Separating the plateaus from the Sahara, the Saharan Atlas (Atlas Saha-
Environment rien) consists of three massifs – Monts des Ksour, the Djebel Amour and
Monts des Ouled – stretching from the Moroccan border near Béchar to
Biskra. The highest point is 1927m. Serving as the final barrier between Sahara: A Natural History,
THE LAND the Sahara Desert and northern Algeria, the Saharan Atlas gets reasonable by Marq de Villiers and
Algeria is one of geography’s grand epics. At 2.38 million sq km, this is rains and is home to a number of large oases such as Béchar, Aïn Sefra, Sheila Hirtle, is a lively
the world’s 11th-largest country and the second biggest in Africa (Sudan Laghouat and Biskra. biography of the desert
is the largest). To help imagine Algeria’s scale, consider this: most of with sections on the
Western Europe – including Germany, France, Spain, Italy, Poland, The Algerian Sahara Sahara’s climate, wildlife
the UK and Portugal – would fit inside Algeria with room to spare. If As Marq de Villiers and Sheila Hirtle write in Sahara: A Natural History, and human inhabitants
that’s just too big to contemplate, Algeria is almost equivalent in size to ‘In Morocco you can taste the desert, but Algeria is full immersion’. and much more.
Western Australia, is 3.5 times the size of Texas or almost 10 times the Although the Sahara runs from the Atlantic Coast to the Red Sea, from
size of the UK. the coastal hinterland of the Mediterranean to the Sahel deep in Africa,
Most of Algerian territory is consumed by the Sahara Desert – over Algeria is one of the few countries where both the vast scope and infinite
90% by most estimates – although the northern, non-Saharan section variety of the world’s largest desert is on full, unrelenting display.
of Algeria contains a surprising range of other landscapes. Just 0.9% of Sand seas the size of European countries – the Grand Erg Occidental
Algeria is covered by forests. and Grand Erg Oriental – rise hundreds of metres in an ever-changing Geomorphology in
landscape of pristine lines sculpted by the wind. The Grand Ergs of cen- Deserts, by Robert Cooke
The distance from Algiers
The Tell & the Northeast tral Algeria are slowly making their way across Algeria – north towards and Andrew Warren, may
to Tamanrasset is more
Pushed up hard against the Mediterranean Coast, the Tell region of Al- the Saharan Atlas and the Massif de Aurès and south towards the Tassili have been written in
than 2000km, which is
geria consists of the narrow coastal strip and its mountainous hinterland. du Hoggar – engulfing the country in a seemingly unstoppable march 1973, but it remains the
greater than the distance
Not surprisingly, this is the most densely populated area of the country. of desertification. Although many regions of the Sahara received regular definitive work on the
from Algiers to Paris.
Apart from the coastal littoral, the Tell is dominated by the east–west rains until 3000 years ago (see p81), it is believed that the Grand Ergs Sahara’s geography.
Atlas Mountains, which are a continuation of the Moroccan Atlas and have not received meaningful regular rainfall for 12,000 years.
cut right across the north and into Tunisia. It is not an unbroken chain: Despite the common misconception, the Sahara is not just one big
it consists of a number of separate ranges, and so does not constitute an expanse of sand. Gravel plains such as the impossibly barren Tanezrouft
impenetrable topographical barrier. in southwestern Algeria and Mali and barren plateaus such as the Plateau
There is some fantastic mountain scenery here, particularly in the du Tademaït (north of In Salah) provide some of the most featureless ho-
many different subranges of the Atlas that make up the Kabylie region rizons in the Sahara. In Algeria’s far southeast are some of the signature
east of Algiers. In the Massif du Djurdjura lies northern Algeria’s highest massifs of the central Sahara, especially the Hoggar (or Ahaggar) Moun-
point at 2308m; the Petite Kabylie and Grande Kabylie ranges also plunge tains and the Tassili N’Ajjer, surrounded by vast sandstone or granite pla-
down to the Mediterranean from a great height. South of Constantine, the teaus otherwise known as the Mid Sahara Rise. It is in the Hoggar, at Mt
Massif de l’Aurès is another signature massif of the northeast. Between Tahat (2908m), where you’ll find Algeria’s highest point, although peaks
the peaks lie numerous high plains – both Sétif and Constantine sit atop
the plains – and valleys making for a region of the country that is rarely
short on topographical interest. THE FORMATION OF SAND DUNES
Most of Algeria’s agricultural possibility – just 3% of the land is arable – Sand dunes are among the great mysteries of the Sahara. In the desert, sand particles are relatively
lies within the Tell, especially the Mitidja Plain west of Algiers and around heavy so even the strongest winds can rarely lift them much higher than an adult’s shoulders. The
Bejaïa to the east. slightest bump in the landscape can cause a phenomenon known as cresting, where an accumu-
As might be expected, the only major river systems are in the north lation of drifting sand builds up. The slopes facing the wind are generally more compacted and
of the country, and many of these are seasonal. The main reservoirs for less steep than those that lie on the other side of the ridge-line. The actual formation takes place
irrigation are in the mountains to the west of Algiers, while those in the where there were originally favourable land formations (often surprisingly small) and a constancy
northeast produce the 5% of the country’s power which is generated by in the direction of the winds. Over time, with a base of ever more densely compacted sand, they
hydroelectricity. become a ‘permanent’ feature of the landscape. Individual or small groups of dunes inch forward
with time, pushed by consistent winds, although sand seas are relatively stable, having formed
The High Plateaus & Saharan Atlas over millennia as rock is scoured and worn down to individual grains of quartz or sand.
Before reaching the Sahara proper, Algeria descends ever so slightly from Some of the most common types of dune are barchan or crescent dunes (the shape of the
the Atlas into what is known as the High Plateaus (Hauts Plateaux), arid, ridge-line); seif (Arabic for sword), which have long, sweeping ridges; and akhlé, a haphazard
steppelike plains that run east for almost 600km from the Moroccan network of dunes without any discernible pattern. Unique combinations of all of these can be
border. With an average height of around 1200m above sea level, these found in both the Grand Erg Occidental (p162) and Grand Erg Oriental (p172), as well as smaller
plains gradually drop down to around 400m around Bou-Saada. It’s only sand seas elsewhere.
geographers who, on a technicality, would deny that the High Plateaus For more information on sand dune formation, the 1973 Geomorphology in Deserts by Robert
differ from the Sahara and a quick look at a map of the region confirms Cooke and Andrew Warren is dense but comprehensive, while Ralph Bagnold’s Libyan Sands –
that the low rainfall and barren soil is incapable of supporting more than Travels in a Dead World (1935; see the boxed text, p66) is more accessible.
a handful of settlements.
62 E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s 63
regularly approach 2000m. Owing their weird-and-wonderful shapes to Sahara. Surveys in 2005 found that a small community of cheetahs –
volcanic eruptions millions of years ago, these otherworldly mountain the world’s fastest land animal – continues to hide out in the Hoggar
ranges are a tortured terrain of soaring monoliths and deep canyons. The Mountains. What makes their survival even more remarkable is the fact
Hoggar alone occupies an area roughly equivalent to France. that the Saharan cheetah – whose colours have dulled in the Saharan sun –
The Sahara may cover more than 90% of Algeria, but it is home to less is extremely susceptible to stress and heat exhaustion.
than 10% of its human population. In the north the Barbary ape (Barbary macaque) and Algerian wild dog
For advice on exploring the Sahara in an environmentally responsible are also considered at risk of extinction.
manner, see p71; for some of the most important statistics of Saharan The Mediterranean monk seal is Europe’s most highly endangered
geography see the boxed text, p67. marine mammal, with just 600 surviving worldwide; a small colony re-
mains in the caves and on rocky outcrops along Algeria’s far northeastern
WILDLIFE coast. Over-fishing by commercial fleets in the Mediterranean and coastal
Animals pollution have reduced their numbers in Algeria to just 10. The leopard-
The prehistoric rock paintings of the Tassili N’Ajjer and elsewhere sug- like serval, which has the longest legs in the cat family, may survive in
gest that elephants, giraffes and rhinoceroses once roamed the region. northern Algeria, but only in similar numbers to the monk seal.
Not surprisingly, none remain and Algeria has few surviving mammal
species. Most of the animal species which do remain have been pushed BIRDS
into ever-more-remote areas and you’re extremely unlikely to see more At last count, Algeria had 183 endemic bird species, of which eight
than a handful of species (if any) during your visit. are considered endangered. In addition to these, hundreds of millions
Algeria is home to 92 mammal species, of which 15 are officially clas- of migrating birds cross the Sahara every year, escaping the European Sahara Conservation Fund
sified by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) winter for the warmth of equatorial Africa. Some have been known to (www.saharaconserva
as threatened. More common species which survive include gazelles, cross the Sahara in just 40 hours, although the toll is considerable – up tion.org) is an excellent
porcupines, antelopes, golden jackals, Egyptian mongooses, spotted to half will not return. The same species are believed to have been fol- website detailing efforts
hyenas and European genets. In northern Algeria European wild boar lowing trans-Saharan migratory routes for millennia, from since before underway to protect
and Barbary red deer remain reasonably prevalent, although both are a the Sahara was a desert. Saharan wildlife and the
favourite of hunters. Birds that you may come across include the Lanner falcon, Marbled Saharan environment.
In the Sahara the painfully shy waddan, a large goatlike deer whose teal, Barbary partridge, blue rock thrush, Greylag goose, golden eagle,
agility is perfectly suited to its steep mountain domain, hides in remote Common or Red crossbill and desert sparrow as well as shrikes, larks,
mountain wadis in the Tassili N’Ajjer and Hoggar Mountains. The fennec crows, turtle doves, vultures, herons, bitterns, woodpigeons, eagles and
fox is a gloriously adapted, largely nocturnal species with fur-soled feet to bulbuls. The sociable moula moula bird, with a black body and striking
protect against scorching sands and comically large ears; it spends most white face and tail, is a constant companion in the far south; the Tuareg
of the hot daylight hours underground. The largest rodent in the Libyan call it the messenger bird or the deliverer of happiness.
Sahara is the gundi, which can stop breathing for up to a minute to hide In the Kabylie region, the Kabylie nuthatch, with its russet-coloured
itself from prey. Wolves are also present. The four-toed jerboa is a small breast, is sometimes spotted above 1000m, although it is considered
rodent that sometimes hops through desert camps at night in search of threatened, as is Audouin’s Gull.
food and is a favourite meal of the fennec. The extremely shy sand cat is
also present in southern Algeria, while other species found in the Hoggar Plants
region in reasonable numbers include Cape hares, Ruppell’s foxes and, to Along the coast of Algeria, the usual array of Mediterranean flora thrives,
a lesser extent, Barbary sheep. with large areas given over to the cultivation of olives and citrus fruit.
Lizards, snakes (the striped sand snake, the horned viper and the Sa- You may also come across eucalyptus, bougainvillea and oleander. Other
haran sand snake) and scorpions are also quite common; you’d have to species include gall oak and cork oak.
be extremely unlucky to encounter snakes in winter. Inland, the only vegetation is largely confined to the oases, where the
Of the marine wildlife along Algeria’s Mediterranean Coast, dolphins, date palm reigns supreme, along with fig, tamarisk and oleander trees.
La Vie Sauvage au Sahara, porpoises and whales are all common. Outside the oases, Acacia arabica (acacia) often provides the only shade
by Alain Dragesco-Joffe, in the middle of the desert wilderness. Alfalfa grass and salt bushes often
is the finest study (in ENDANGERED SPECIES appear as if by miracle after rains.
French) of the Sahara’s The addax is a large antelope that once frequented the Hoggar and Tassili Like the Sahara’s few surviving mammal species, a few holdouts of
wildlife, including rare N’Ajjer regions but may have become extinct in Algeria. Remarkably, it Mediterranean plant species – such as Mediterranean olive, Saharan
photos and analysis of never drinks water. The scimitar-horned oryx (a long-horned antelope) myrtle and tarout cypress trees – can be found at high altitudes in the
the Saharan cheetah. was officially declared extinct in Algeria in 1996. Other species for which Hoggar and Tassili N’Ajjer regions.
it may be too late include the Barbary hyena and Barbary leopard. The
dorcas gazelle is considered threatened, while the dama gazelle may NATIONAL PARKS
have gone the way of the addax in Algeria due to hunting and human Algeria has 11 national parks in addition to a host of other protected
encroachment. areas that encompass a total of between 5% and 10% of the country’s
One of the most curious survivors in all the Sahara is the Saharan chee- land area. That said, although the Algerian government’s record in set-
tah, of which between 200 and 500 are thought to survive in the whole ting aside protected areas has improved in recent years, these are rarely
64 E N V I R O N M E N T • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l I s s u e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l I s s u e s 65
national parks in the traditional sense – there are few park wardens, Desertification
locals continue to live within most park boundaries and there are rarely The major environmental issue facing Algeria is undoubtedly desertifi-
official entry gates, all of which means you may end up visiting one of cation – by some estimates, the Algerian Sahara grows by hundreds of
the parks without realising it. square kilometres every year and the Sahara is now just 200km from the The deforestation that
shores of the Mediterranean. The stripping of vegetation for firewood and has denuded so much of
Ahaggar National Park soil erosion from overgrazing have meant that once-fertile soil has begun Algeria wasn’t helped by
The Ahaggar National Park (Parc National de l’Ahaggar) covers an as- to unravel, hastening the desert’s irresistible march. the French, who repeat-
tonishing 450,000 sq km, making it one the largest protected areas in Successive Algerian governments have tried a range of responses to edly bombed northern
the world. Created in 1987, the park runs from In Salah to the Mali and combat desertification with limited impact. In 1975 the government regions with napalm dur-
Niger borders and encompasses the Hoggar Mountains (p188) and the planted what it called a 1500km-long, 20km-wide ‘green wall’ along the ing the 1954–62 Algerian
Tassili d’Immidir (p182). There’s an information office (x029 734117; pl du 1er northern boundary of the Sahara and the cost of maintaining it drained War of Independence.
Novembre) in Tamanrasset. US$100 million from government coffers every year for two decades, only
for further overgrazing and human encroachment to strip away much of
Africa & the Middle East:
Tassili N’Ajjer National Park the good work. Despite such efforts and some successes – some environ-
A continental overview of
Covering 80,000 sq km, the Tassili N’Ajjer National Park (Parc National mentalists claim that 26,000 sq km of pastureland have been reclaimed
environmental issues, by
de Tassili N’Ajjer; (p194) is Algeria’s other major park and arguably the from the desert on the High Plateaus – the Department of Agriculture
Kevin Hillstrom, contains
most effectively run. The Office National du Parc Tassili in Djanet con- estimates that 130,000 sq km have become desert in Algeria in the last
an excellent exploration
trols entry to the park, with a DA100 entry fee per person. 10 years. In December 2006 President Bouteflika earmarked a further
of North Africa’s environ-
In addition to the rock art for which the park is famous, the park was US$2.5 billion for the fight against desertification.
mental past and future, Algerian carbon dioxide
set up to protect 28 endangered plant species such as Mediterranean The government also has ambitious plans to develop southern regions
focusing on how human emissions amount to 5.1
olive, Saharan myrtle and tarout cypress, as well as threatened animal not only for environmental reasons, but also to stem the rising urban
populations impact upon tonnes per capita, which
species such as the Barbary sheep, sand cat, cheetah and dorcas gazelle. migration of peoples from southern Algeria. Algerian environmentalists
the environment. makes it the 76th worst
The Tassili N’Ajjer National Park is also an important waystation for mi- have targeted the Taghit region in western Algeria for a possible national
environmental villain in
grating bird species, while up to 10,000 people, mostly nomadic Tuareg, park and ecotourism project as a means of regenerating desert life in
the world. US figures are
live within the park’s confines. harmony with the environment. The government has also redoubled
19.8 tonnes, while carbon
its efforts to plant desert-friendly trees in Saharan areas and develop
dioxide emissions from
Other National Parks agricultural regions in the south to arrest the region’s environmental
the average Malian are
Two of the most important national parks in Algeria are located in and economic decline.
just 0.04 tonnes.
the country’s northeast, although facilities for travellers are practically
nonexistent. Water
Taza National Park (Parc National de Taza), which was set aside in With more than 90% of Algerian territory covered by desert, water is not
2004, is situated on the Mediterranean Coast in the Kabylie region and its surprisingly a major environmental issue. Water shortages are common
stunning cliffs and precipitous valleys (the landscape soars from sea level and pollution of water sources, especially in the north, from both domes-
to over 1100m) are home to the endangered Barbary ape and the Kabylie tic and industrial sources is a serious problem in many areas. Techniques
nuthatch, as well as the largest stands of gall oak and cork oak in Algeria. for water purification are substandard, and rivers are being increasingly
The region is especially popular for raptor bird species. contaminated by untreated sewage, industrial effluent and wastes from
Also of significance is the El-Kala National Park (Parc National d’El- petroleum refining.
Recent radiocarbon
Kala), which is hard-up alongside the Algerian–Tunisian border, close to Droughts are an increasing feature of Algerian life, even in relatively
dating suggests that the
Annaba. The park is home to two of Algeria’s 26 entries on the Ramsar fertile areas in the north. These dry spells have not only fuelled an exodus
water currently stored
List of Wetlands of International Importance. An important stopover from the rural south to the industrialised north, they have also left the
beneath the Sahara has
for migrating birds on their trans-Saharan odyssey, these wetlands play land susceptible to devastating fires such as those that swept through the
been there for between
host to rare waterfowl such as the tufted duck, white-headed duck, Fer- northeast in 1999.
14,000 and 38,000 years,
ruginous duck and purple gallinule. Water shortages are particularly acute in the south where people rely
with smaller deposits
In addition to these parks, there is one further coastal park (Gour- on underground water sources for human consumption and crop pro-
from 7000 years ago.
aya National Park), five parks covering mountain regions (Theniet el- duction. It was ever thus in the Sahara – underground water channels
Had National Park, Djurdjura National Park, Chrea National Park, known as foggara and dating back centuries discovered in the Adrar
Belezma National Park and Tlemcen National Park) and one national region were found to extend over 2000km.
park on the High Plateaus (Djebel Aissa National Park). The Mediterranean has also been contaminated by the oil industry,
fertilizer runoff and soil erosion.
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Algeria’s record on environmental protection is patchy, with daunting © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
challenges and the primacy of oil production and consumption on the restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
list of government priorities proving a destructive combination. Despite only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
some public willingness to tackle the big environmental issues, the gov-
ernment has not, for example, signed the 1997 Kyoto Protocol. everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
66 lonelyplanet.com B E F O R E Y O U G O • • W h e n t o G o 67
Travelling in the Sahara SAHARA STATS

It is a notoriously unwieldy beast to quantify, but most estimates put the Sahara’s size at 9.065
million sq km, which is comparable to the continental United States. Almost a quarter of the
Exploring the Algerian Sahara offers the traveller the ultimate challenge, Sahara lies within the borders of Algeria.
not to mention some of the last great wilderness adventures in the world. Contrary to popular misconceptions, sand covers just 20% of the Sahara’s surface and only a
You may see some of the most spectacular scenery on earth – Algeria is ninth of the Sahara rises as sand dunes.
famed among experienced Saharan travellers as a true landscape of the More typical of the Sahara are the vast gravel plains and plateaus such as the Tanezrouft of
soul – but the process of getting there along the long, dusty, rocky trails is southeastern Algeria. Improbably, plains such as these owe their existence to water. When the
something that you’ll remember almost as long as you will places like Tas- rains ceased and the Sahara began to dry out around 4000 years ago, the rivers which once flowed
sili N’Ajjer National Park, Tassili du Hoggar, Assekrem or Tanezrouft. from the mountains of the central Sahara to the sea dried out. They left behind mountain debris
The home page of Alain
A Saharan expedition is definitely not for those who value their crea- carried down onto eroded plains such as the Tanezrouft. These great tablelands of sedimentary
Sèbe (www.alainsebe
ture comforts, as transport can be uncomfortable, conditions are often limestone, newly exposed to unimpeded Saharan winds, were thereafter polished smooth as all
images.com), arguably
primitive, the climate is almost always extreme and the range of food lim- loose debris was scoured away by wind and sand.
the finest photographer
ited. There will surely come a moment when the arduous nature of travel The Sahara is also home to barren mountain ranges of sandstone and granite such as the Jebel
currently working in the
in the Sahara makes you wonder why on earth you decided to come. Acacus (Libya), Aïr Mountains (Niger), Tibesti (Chad), Adrar-n-Iforhas (Mali) and the Algerian ranges
Sahara, is filled with
But then you’ll catch a glimpse of a distant sand dune of pristine, of the Hoggar and Tassili N’Ajjer. These dark apparitions of the central Sahara were formed by
inspirational desert shots.
sculpted perfection, stumble upon a slash of green in a remote canyon of volcanic activity, beginning 570 million years ago with the Great African Episode, which formed
desolate black rocks, discover a wall adorned with rock art so exquisite the mountains of Africa, and culminating in the last volcanic activity a mere two million years
as to qualify as a masterpiece or find yourself in patient conversation ago. Most of these mountains are basalt to the core, with underlying foundations of granite.
with a Tuareg keen to initiate you into the Sahara’s secrets. These are the Although there are places where life can seem impossible, the Sahara is home to 1400 plant
moments when all memories of the hardship disappear and you begin to species, 50 species of mammal and 18 species of bird.
wonder how you can ever bear to leave.
We can also promise you one thing: once you have visited the imag-
ined territory of the Sahara, the Sahara will fill your dreams and you’ll Impossible Journey: Two Against the Sahara (Michael Asher) Epic tales of Saharan explora-
spend the rest of your life longing to return. tion aren’t the preserve of 19th-century travellers and this crossing of the Sahara from west to east
is extraordinary.
Desert Divers (Sven Lindqvist) A deeply meditative text on the peoples of the Algerian Sahara
BEFORE YOU GO and the strange mysteries of the desert.
Mysterious Sahara (Byron Khun de Prorock) A stirring 1920s account of journeys into the Sahara Sahara: The Forbidding
Sands (Jean-Marc Durou)
Visiting the Sahara, whether it be in Algeria or elsewhere, requires care- (including extensive sections on Algeria) by one of the most intrepid Saharan travellers of the 20th
is a stunningly photo-
ful planning. While much of this involves practical preparation, it also century.
graphed addition to your
entails catching a sense of the Sahara’s magic, and dreaming a little Call of the Desert (Philippe Bourseiller) A weighty coffee-table tome that you won’t want in
library, with text by
before you go. your suitcase, but which has one of the most exceptional collections of Saharan photos.
Tuareg writers and
Some aspects of travelling in the Algerian Sahara are covered elsewhere Sahara: An Immense Ocean of Sand (Paolo Navaresio and Gianni Guadalupi) A kilo or two
some of France’s most
in this book. In addition to the destination chapters – Ghardaïa and the less than Bourseiller’s book, but similarly exceptional photos and lively, informative text.
respected Saharan
Grand Ergs, and Tamanrasset, Djanet and the Sahara – detailed cover- Sahara: The Atlantic to the Nile (Alain and Berny Sèbe) Award-winning photos of the
travellers.
age of Saharan rock art can be found on p80, while descriptions of the Sahara’s signature landscapes with a heavy focus on Algeria.
Sahara’s geography (p61) and the wildlife (p62) you may see there form
a central part of the Environment chapter. WHEN TO GO
The season during which you visit the Sahara will have a strong bearing on
READING UP what you’re able to achieve and what type of memories you’ll take home.
When it comes to preparing for a Saharan expedition, a little inspiration can The best time to visit the Sahara is in October or November when
take you a long way. The following books will help you to catch the spirit of daytime temperatures can be surprisingly mild and the nights won’t
the Sahara and whet your appetite for what awaits you in Algeria: have fallen below zero as they tend to do in the months that follow. If
Wind, Sand and Stars (Antoine de Saint-Exupéry) The existentialist bible of Saharan travel, you’re lucky and there have been late-summer rains in the preceding
filled with all the wisdom and gravitas of the world’s largest desert. months, some desert landscapes will still be alive with flowers and soft
The Sahara (The World’s Wild Places, Time-Life Books) An unlikely desert classic which combines tinges of green.
a wealth of information with evocative text that captures the essence of Saharan travel. Winter (December through to February) in the Algerian Sahara will
Libyan Sands – Travels in a Dead World (RA Bagnold) A beautifully written 1920s explora- also mean that you’re free to explore just about anywhere without too
tion of the Egyptian and Libyan deserts that overflows with the joy of discovery, a sensation that is much difficulty, although you may be surprised at just how cool the days
still possible today. can become, and nights can be bitterly, interminably cold. Having ‘slept’
The Gates of Africa: Death, Discovery and the Search for Timbuktu (Anthony Sattin) No outdoors in the central Sahara in just a light sleeping bag when the tem-
book about the Saharan explorers of old so beautifully evokes the reasons why they (and perhaps peratures dropped more degrees below zero than we care to remember,
we) felt so called by the desert. we can only exhort you to come well prepared; see p68.
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From March until the middle of May are also good months for visit- bag and tent are essential in colder weather, while blankets should also
ing the Sahara, although in April there is a greater risk of strong winds be provided. A portable stove is also a must, as are kitchen and eating
and sandstorms, which can reduce visibility to just a few metres and be utensils.
extremely unpleasant if you find yourself in open country. By late April No tour operator can be held responsible, however, if you find yourself
‘people and early May, temperatures have begun to rise and given that your car freezing on a cold desert night because you didn’t bring enough warm
survive by is unlikely to let you use air-conditioning when traversing tough terrain, clothes. For all but summer months, we advise you to bring a jacket or
you may be a little more restricted in how deep into the desert you want coat which is effective at keeping out the wind and keeping you warm.
staying to travel. Other warm clothes should also be considered, depending on the time of
indoors Don’t even think of travelling in the Sahara from late May until mid- year. Thermal underwear, for example, takes up little space.
for most September when temperatures are fierce. In any event, given that you Good, sturdy boots are another must for the uneven trails of the Tassili
have to visit the Algerian Sahara in the company of a guide, you’ll struggle N’Ajjer in particular.
of the to find one willing to leave the shade and accompany you at such times. Sunscreen is necessary, as is some form of head protection to help guard
daylight For people who live in the Sahara, these are months to be endured and against getting sunburn or, worse, heat exhaustion. You should definitely
hours’ the people survive by staying indoors for most of the daylight hours. One bring a hat, but many travellers don traditional Tuareg headgear – the
day in the open desert and you’ll feel like doing the same. taguelmoust (see p42) or other cloth – which not only shields you from the
sun, but also keeps out wind-borne sand. For advice on the complicated
WHAT TO BRING fun of tying your new Tuareg taguelmoust in nine easy steps, see the boxed
Although we’ve provided some general advice on what to bring on your text, opposite. Moisturising cream for dry skin is also recommended.
visit to Algeria (see the boxed text, p14), there are further things that are A medical kit (see p219) is a near-essential item, while you should also
specifically necessary for Saharan travel that you should consider carry- make sure that your travel insurance (see p202) covers you for trekking,
ing in your backpack. camel trekking and 4WD expeditions in the Algerian Sahara. Some form
of mosquito repellent is also recommended – that unmistakeable high-
Clothes & Camping Equipment pitched whine in the ear is death to sleep in many Saharan oases.
If you’re visiting the Algerian Sahara as part of an organised tour, check Useful items to have around the camp site at night include a Swiss army ‘good,
what equipment the operator will be sending with you. A warm sleeping knife, a torch (some people prefer a head lantern) and spare batteries.
Some travellers like to also carry a short-wave radio with them, although sturdy boots
most prefer the silence of desert nights to knowing what’s happening in are a must’
TYING YOUR TAGUELMOUST the world beyond the desert. A small telescope for studying the night sky
The Tuareg turban (known as an ashaersh or taguelmoust) has puzzled ethnographers for cen- is something of an indulgence, but one that you’ll appreciate if you have
turies. The Tuareg are one of the few societies in the world where men, but not women, must room in your backpack or vehicle.
wear the veil. One functional purpose is as protection against wind and sand.
However, it also serves a social purpose in the rigid hierarchy of social relationships. A Tuareg Documents
man is not supposed to show his face to one of higher status, and Tuareg who still follow the Be sure to carry all your documents – passport, carnet de passage (pass-
traditional way of life will rarely expose the lower half of their face in company. When such port or travel permit for your vehicle), vehicle registration and insurance
men drink tea, they are supposed to pass their glass under their taguelmoust so as not to reveal papers for your vehicle – with you at all times and keep them easily
the mouth. accessible. The Algerian security services are known to pop up in the
There are many ways of tying the taguelmoust. Although it’s likely to take a while for you most remote and unlikely places and, although they’re primarily there
to gain the casual ease with which Tuareg men accomplish the task, one relatively easy way to for your own protection, they’ll want to make sure that everything is in
do it is as follows: order before they let you continue on your way.
Step 1 Fold the cloth so that it remains the same length but half the width.
Step 2 Drape the folded cloth flat over your head so that three quarters of its length hangs down in front of your Maps
right arm and the shorter length over your left. Navigating the Sahara requires good maps and an experienced local
Step 3 With your right hand, hold the cloth about halfway down its length. guide. A satellite-generated Global Positioning System (GPS) can also
Step 4 Place your left hand across your body, and tense it so that your four fingers are pointing out to your right come in handy, but it’s no substitute for the local knowledge of an expe-
and your thumb is pointing to the sky. rienced guide – a GPS can point you in the right direction but can’t tell
Step 5 Holding your left hand just below your right shoulder, about chest high and about 15cm out from your what lies in your path, and hence the most appropriate route.
body, grasp the nearest fold of the long length of cloth in your left hand between the thumb and flattened forefinger. For an overview of the area, the regularly updated Michelin map Af-
Step 6 With your right hand, quickly take the length of cloth in a full circle in front of your face and around the rica: North and West (sheet 953, formerly 153, scale 1:4,000,000) is one of
back of your head until you return to where you started. the best and most detailed, and something of a classic. It has lent its name
Step 7 Repeat as many times as necessary. to the 153 Club (www.the153club.org) whose members have driven across
Step 8 Tuck any remaining strands of cloth into the folds on the top or back of the head. the Sahara and around West Africa. That said, don’t rely solely on the
Step 9 Ask your Tuareg guide to sort it out. Michelin map as its scale makes it insufficiently detailed for most desert
navigation. Expect also a few discrepancies between the map and reality,
There; we told you it was easy. especially regarding road information, because old tracks get upgraded
and once-smooth highways become potholed disasters.
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Overland: A Route and Planning Guide by Chris Scott. It includes

STUCK IN THE SAND Anthony Ham 16 detailed route descriptions for the Algerian Sahara, often including
There’s no feeling like it, that sense of being so deep in the Sahara and so far from civilisation that GPS coordinates.
you wonder whether you’ve fallen off the end of the earth. The glorious sense of solitude and the For general advice on good country maps of Algeria, see p203.
gravitas of a desert landscape sculpted by the wind are among the many rewards of travelling in
the Sahara. That is until something happens to your vehicle. And so it was that we awoke one Vehicle Equipment
morning in the sands of the Sahara to find that the car’s battery was a complete nonstarter. If you’re travelling in your own 4WD, you should make sure that your
I have become accustomed over the years to drivers in this area being able to fix anything – for engine has been rigorously checked and any potential problems either ‘equip your
them necessity is indeed the mother of invention. I have watched, 300km from the nearest town, fixed or noted. If you choose the latter option, and even if you don’t, a
as my driver dismantled a Land Rover’s suspension and then rebuilt it in just over two hours. I close to full set of spare parts is essential. Your tyres (including spares) vehicle with
have marvelled as my guide and driver changed the entire gear system of a Toyota Landcruiser must be in excellent condition, while spare inner tubes and repair kits additional
in a deep valley of a sand sea. So I wasn’t worried at first. are also a must. A spare battery can also be a good idea. Your vehicle petrol and
We dug the wheels from the sand and pushed. When that failed, my driver and two guides should be equipped with either an additional petrol tank or petrol con-
jacked up the car and tried to spin the wheels, hoping that would coax the engine to life. They tainers, as well as a number of large water containers or jerry cans – water’
dismantled the fan belt and tried to charge the battery by hand. They talked excitedly and with you’d be surprised at how many inexperienced desert travellers set out into
purpose which suggested that things were not as bad as they seemed to me. Then came the the Sahara with the idea that a few water bottles will see them through.
moment when my two guides and driver stopped peering into the engine and, as one, began to Sand ladders (also known as sand plates), tow ropes and shovels are
look hopefully towards the horizon. That’s when I knew we had problems and began to wonder staples of Saharan 4WD expeditions, while electric compressors (air
just how much trouble we were in. pumps that run from your car’s engine and pump up your tyres) are
And so it was that one guide and one driver set out to walk 25km across the sand to the useful for reinflating tyres after a journey through soft sand. An airbag
nearest police post, leaving us to contemplate what it truly meant to be stuck in the sand with jack is also an excellent thing to have on hand.
no prospect of passing traffic in one of the most remote corners of the Sahara. As the hours A satellite phone is another near-essential accessory, although if you’re
passed, with the sun overhead, we crawled under the car for shade. What if they got lost and travelling with a tour company a satellite phone for the group may be
never returned? What if the police vehicle was under repair or away on patrol? We knew we part of the service.
had enough food and water for at least a week, but the sense of helplessness soon morphed
into morbid thoughts. RESPONSIBLE SAHARAN TRAVEL
Although my usual rule is to venture into the Sahara only with two or more 4WDs, I often Despite appearances, the Sahara can be an extremely fragile environment
break it when I am with an experienced driver who knows his car. Off the beaten track, I also and the only evidence of your visit that you should leave behind is foot-
always travel with a satellite phone. In this case, I had no phone and no second car. prints in the sand. Some general rules to keep in mind so as to minimise
Finally, after six hours, a police car with mounted machine guns appeared over the horizon, your impact while travelling in the Sahara include the following:
bearing our guide and driver and the means to restart our car. Carry out all your rubbish. If you’ve carried it in, you can carry it out.
A happy reunion. Relief that you could almost taste. And one of the most important lessons Most Algerian tour companies are sensitive to these concerns and leave
of Saharan travel learnt – always know your vehicle before taking it into the desert. behind little rubbish but you can make sure of it.
The most detailed topographical maps are the old Russian satellite ENVIRONMENTALLY PISTE-OFF
survey maps (1:200,000) from the 1970s. They may be in Cyrillic script Before you decide to explore the Algerian Sahara by 4WD, it is worth considering the environ-
but they’re still the best maps for Saharan navigation, at least when it mental cost of what is known as the ‘Toyotarisation’ of the Sahara. With their large wheels, 4WDs
comes to topographical features. break up the surface of the desert which is then scattered into the air by strong winds. By one
If you can’t find the Russian maps, your next best bet is probably estimate, the annual generation of dust has increased by 1000% in North Africa in the last fifty
the series of maps produced by the Institut Géographique National years. And in case you thought that your 4WD tracks across the sands would soon be erased by
(IGN). IGN’s extensive series of Carte Internationale du Monde sheets the winds, remember that tracks from WWII vehicles are still visible in the Libyan Desert six decades
(1:1,000,000) covers the Algerian Sahara and the most relevant sheets are after the cessation of hostilities. Airborne dust is a primary cause of drought far more than it is
likely to be In-Azaoua, Djanet, Tamanrasset and In-Salah. The only prob- a consequence of it, as it shields the earth’s surface from sunlight and hinders cloud formation.
lem with these maps is that they were surveyed in the 1960s and don’t The consequences of our impatience in the desert extend far beyond Algeria and its desert
seem to have been updated since. As such, they’re generally excellent for communities. The stirred-up sand threatens to envelop large tracts of the world in dust, with
topographical features, but of little use for road detail. serious consequences for human health, coral reefs and climate change. Plankton on the surface
To try to track down these and other Saharan maps, your first stop of the world’s oceans is being smothered by sand with devastating implications for marine life.
should be Stanfords (x020-7836 1321; www.stanfords.co.uk; 12-14 Long Acre, Covent Dust storms are increasingly common in cities, such as Madrid and the dust-laden winds threaten
Garden, London WC2E 9LP, UK), the world’s largest supplier of maps. It also has to transform 90% of Spain’s Mediterranean regions into deserts. Sand from the Sahara has even
stores in Manchester and Bristol. reached as far away as Greenland, settling on icebergs and causing them to melt faster. The
In France, IGN (x01 43 98 80 00; www.ign.fr; 107, rue de La Boétie, 75008 Paris) sells process of desertification is extremely difficult and costly to reverse.
its sheet maps at stores in Paris and Dijon. Travelling by camel or on foot may be more restricting, but it’s the best way to ensure that
Another excellent resource, especially for preparing your vehicle for you leave behind nothing but footprints in the sand.
the Sahara and advice on desert driving, is the 2nd edition of Sahara
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Minimise the waste you must carry out by taking minimal packaging covered; for the latter, a hat is good, but a Tuareg taguelmoust (see p69
and instead take reusable containers or stuff sacks. for more information) is even better. Resist the temptation to strip down
Never bury your rubbish. Digging disturbs soil and ground cover, to shorts and T-shirt at every available opportunity, because long sleeves
and encourages erosion. Buried rubbish will more than likely be dug and light trousers actually help to keep the body cool. Given that sweat
up by animals, who may be injured or poisoned by it. It may also take usually evaporates in the desert before you realise it has appeared, you
decades to decompose in the dry desert air. may not always be aware that your body is losing fluids. Don’t wait until
Don’t rely on bought water in plastic bottles. Disposal of these bottles you’re thirsty before drinking. You should aim to consume 6L of water
is creating a major problem as a quick look at the outskirts of many per day – more if you’re engaged in strenuous activity. You should also
oasis towns or travellers’ former camp sites will attest. avoid direct sunlight between 10am and 3pm to minimise the burning
Sanitary napkins, tampons and condoms should also be carried out and dehydrating effects of the sun. Remember also that the sun can be
despite the inconvenience. They burn and decompose poorly. extremely powerful even on cloudy days.
‘The most Where there’s no toilet, bury your waste. Dig a small hole 15cm (6 in) Dehydration is a particular danger if you’re struck down with diar-
deep. Cover the waste with soil and a rock. Use toilet paper sparingly rhoea, when the necessity of replacing lost bodily fluids and salts is even
significant and bury it with the waste, or burn it. greater. It’s also a good reason to ensure that food is properly prepared
risks for If you light a fire, don’t surround it with rocks, as this creates a visual and cooked and that you, along with all those involved with your food
travellers in scar. preparation, are washing hands and cooking utensils regularly.
When collecting firewood, only use dead wood and never take from a Another small but serious risk to your health in the Algerian Sahara
the Sahara living tree. is bites from snakes and scorpions. The Sahara has many poisonous
are snakes although the vast majority of travellers never see one. In winter
The most dangerous
dehydration TREKKING SAFETY and other colder months, snakes are a rarity. If you’re camping in a
snake in the Sahara is the
Apart from questions of vehicle maintenance (see p71 for details), there rocky area, consider sleeping in a tent and avoid leaving any food scraps
and heat are two major safety aspects to trekking in the Algerian Sahara. littered around the site. If that all sounds scary, remember that the in- horned viper which buries
exhaustion’ itself almost completely
cidence of snakebite is exceptionally rare and that snakes are probably
beneath the sand so as to
Security more afraid of you than you are of them and will clear out long before
conceal itself from prey –
The first thing that you must take into consideration is the question of you arrive.
avoid walking too far
security, because militant Islamist groups continue to operate in remote If you do get bitten, remain calm, thoroughly wash the affected area
away from your camp
stretches of the Sahara and have targeted foreign travellers in the past, and keep it below the level of your heart. Paracetamol, rather than aspirin,
without shoes.
most spectacularly in 2003; see the boxed text, p181, for further details. is recommended for the pain and you should get medical treatment as
After 31 of the 32 hostages were finally freed (one died of heat exhaustion soon as possible.
while in captivity), few people back in Europe showed any sympathy for Of less gravity, the hot, dry conditions can also lead to dry skin which
the former captives, instead calling on the released hostages to pay back is more uncomfortable than serious.
the costs of the massive search. For its part, the Algerian government
maintains that the groups would not have been kidnapped had they been Safety Guidelines
travelling with an official Algerian guide. Before embarking on a walking trip, consider the following points to
The rules surrounding expeditions into the Algerian Sahara have since ensure a safe and enjoyable experience:
been tightened and all off-road travel south of Ghardaïa must be under- Be sure you are healthy and feel comfortable walking for a sustained
taken in the company of a professional local guide, which can be arranged period.
in Tamanrasset, Djanet or Adrar. Obtain reliable information about physical and environmental condi-
The most important preparation you can undertake is to carefully check tions along your intended route. In practical terms, this means con-
the prevailing security situation for the area in which you wish to travel. tacting the Office National du Parc Tassili (OPTN; p191) in Djanet
One source of such information is your own government (see p201), either or the Office du Parc Nationale de l’Ahaggar (L’OPNA; p185) in
from their travel advisory websites or from their embassies in Algiers. Tamanrasset.
Another important information stream to monitor is forums set up Be aware of local laws, regulations and etiquette about wildlife and the
for Saharan travellers. The most comprehensive of these is the Sahara environment.
Overland (www.sahara-overland.com), the companion website to the book of the Before entering the Tassili N’Ajjer National Park, pay the DA100 per-
same name. mit in Djanet; see p191 for details.
Apart from adhering to the requirement that you travel with a profes- Walk only in regions within your realm of experience and on tracks
sional Algerian guide, other important precautions include notifying your that suit your level of fitness.
embassy of your plans and providing a detailed itinerary to the police in Be aware that weather conditions and terrain vary significantly from
Tamanrasset, Djanet or another regional centre before you set out. one region, or even from one trail, to another. Seasonal changes can
significantly alter any trail. These differences influence the way walkers
Desert Health dress and the equipment they carry.
The most significant risks for travellers in the Sahara are dehydration Avoid camping in what seems like a dry riverbed (oued) because rain,
and heat exhaustion. These potentially serious conditions are best com- even kilometres away, can transform the oued into a raging torrent
bated by drinking plenty of water, doing so often and keeping your head within no time.
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The overwhelming benefit of exploring the Sahara on foot is that it’s

ON THE GROUND just you and nature and that your impact upon the environment will
likely be minimal.
You’ve dreamed a little, filled your backpack with all the necessaries, Hiking tours can be arranged through all of the travel agencies in Djanet travel agencies
thought about responsible Saharan travel and informed yourself as to the Djanet (p191). Tours organised through an international tour company generally charge from
risks. Now’s the time to explore the Sahara for real and put the theory (see p78) can also include walking components with the cost incorpo- €50 to €60 per person per
into practice. rated into the overall cost of your tour. day for treks into the
Tassili N’Ajjer, which
REACHING THE SAHARA Camel-Trekking should include all water,
If you stick to the major routes, the road network is fairly well developed. Surveying the Sahara from high atop a camel is desert travel at its most food and camping equip-
Without a vehicle, you can take any of the routes (p76) normally followed atmospheric, allowing you to cover reasonable distances (20km to 40km ment, a national park
by the overland crowd by using public transport to reach the start of off- per day) but at the same time slow down to a loping desert pace. It also permit, a guide and pack
road desert trails. Transport on some of the routes is, however, infrequent enables you to truly experience the solitude of the desert without engine animals for carrying your
so you’ll need to be prepared to take a plane to get out or else sit around noise and to discover an intimacy with the landscape that simply isn’t luggage and supplies.
for a week or more waiting for a shared taxi to leave. This applies mainly to possible by 4WD. By camel, you may not see great swaths of the desert,
the eastern route from Hassi Messaoud down through In Amenas, Illizi and but you’ll see it in far greater detail and come to appreciate its subtle-
Djanet to Tamanrasset. The Route du Hoggar presents no such problems, ties far more than you could by motorised transport. Camel safaris are
although you may end up on a bus between In Salah and Tamanrasset.
TYPES OF EXPEDITION THE GREAT CARAVANS OF THE SAHARA

Most people explore the Algerian Sahara using a mixture of 4WD and People have been travelling through the Sahara by camel since the 1st century BC and the great
trekking by foot, but for those in no hurry camel-trekking is the most trans-Saharan caravans once created some of the most lucrative trade routes in Africa.
environmentally responsible manner to explore the Sahara. Believe it or For centuries, there were two principal kinds of Saharan caravan. The first were the caravans
not, cycling is also a possibility. organised by wealthy merchants of the oasis towns of the Sahara and trading cities along the
North African coast, such as Tripoli, or in the African interior such as Kano. The merchants rarely
4WD travelled themselves, but instead paid trusted cameleers to ferry their goods across the Sahara to
There’s almost nowhere that you can’t reach in the Algerian Sahara in a distant towns where the merchants’ agents sold the goods and bought new ones for the return
4WD and you’re almost certain to travel by 4WD at some point in your journey. In this way, goods from the interior of Africa – precious stones, gold, silver, ivory, dates
journey, even if it’s only to reach the trailhead from which you commence and ostrich plumes – headed north to the coast while items as unusual as glass necklaces, paper
your trek on foot. The advantage of travelling in this way is that you will from Venice for use in religious texts and linen from Marseille passed through en route south.
be able to range much wider than you can on foot or by camel (unless you Trade caravans such as these were, for example, the only connection that the Roman cities of
have months to spend on the latter). You will be able to reach a more varied North Africa had with the interior of the continent.
Organising a 4WD
range of sites and traverse a more representative sample of Saharan land- The prosperous trading towns of the Sahara such as Timbuktu, Agadez, Murzuq and Gh-
expedition through one
scapes, leaving the Algerian Sahara with a better appreciation of its scale. adames actually produced few goods of their own, but their merchants became adept at
of the travel agencies in
Travelling in this way does, however, come at a significant environmental profiting from passing trade and ultimately controlling it. The Tuareg, too, learned how to
Tamanrasset or Djanet
cost (see the boxed text, p71, for details), which is something that you extract their profits, alternately looting the caravans and serving as paid protectors of the
should cost €50 to €80
should take into account when deciding how best to travel in the Sahara. travelling salesmen.
per person per day.
Even if you are a small group or a party of one, you should never travel The arrival of European traders and armies on the West African coast from the 15th century
into the Sahara without at least two vehicles (the guide or driver brings onwards marked the death knell for trans-Saharan caravans. Trade was reoriented away from
the other). For longer expeditions, an additional vehicle is always neces- the Sahara and the caravans became ever less frequent over the subsequent centuries, before
sary for carrying food supplies, kitchen and camping equipment and your finally disappearing altogether.
additional water and petrol. The second type of trans-Saharan caravan were the salt caravans, which were the exclusive
Desert driving requires a whole new set of skills and if you’re feeling as domain of the Tuareg who ventured deep into the salt mines of the Sahara – mines at Taoudenni
if you could use some instruction from the experts, Timtar Expeditions (x029 in northern Mali and Bilma in northeastern Niger were the most important. Many Tuareg then
346038; www.timtar.com) in Djanet offers courses from October to May. travelled to towns on the Saharan fringe where they traded the salt for foodstuffs, cloth and
For advice on equipping your 4WD vehicle for a foray, see p71. tea. For centuries, salt was so highly prized that it traded ounce-for-ounce with gold in the
lands south of the Sahara. By the time the salt caravans returned home to their bases in the
Hiking Hoggar Mountains of Algeria or the Aïr Mountains of Niger, they had been away for seven or
The desire to walk in the hot Saharan sun may seem like a strange form eight months, during which time the difficulties of Saharan travel – daily, 18-hour forced marches
of madness, but there’s no other way to reach and explore the fine rock were the norm – had taken their toll on humans and camels alike. Many never returned.
art that is such a feature of the Tassili N’Ajjer National Park (p194). Re- As late as the 19th century, caravans consisting of more than 20,000 camels would set out for
member, however, that this and other treks in the Algerian Sahara are the salt mines amid great fanfare. Salt caravans do still cross the Sahara, especially in Mali and
almost always restricted to rocky mountain areas and no-one’s expecting Niger where camels remain the cheapest way of transporting salt, but they’re a shadow of their
you to walk amid the sands of the Grand Ergs. Sturdy hiking boots are former glories and the last salt caravans are a distant memory in Algeria.
essential.
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also the most environmentally friendly way to see the Sahara – for more this route can be completed using public transport, we don’t recommend
information see the boxed text, p71. it because of the uncertainties of the journey and the bureaucratic for-
If you’re setting out The major drawback of travelling by camel is that you will be restricted malities at the Niger border. In your own vehicle, allow four days to reach
on a camel expedition, to seeing a relatively small corner of the desert – so vast are the distances Arlit in northern Niger, whereafter there’s a well-paved road.
consider buying Tuareg of the Algerian Sahara that exploring several regions astride a camel
pants (akerbai), with If the sands of the Grand
would take more time than you probably have. Hoggar Mountains
their exquisitely brocaded Erg Oriental were laid out
Travel agencies in Tamanrasset (p185) can organise camel treks into The deep valleys and soaring, bizarrely shaped peaks of the Hoggar
hems. These loose-fitting flat, the sand would still
the Hoggar Mountains (p189) and Assekrem (p188), while international Mountains represent the magnificent heartland of the Algerian Sahara
pants are very comfy and rise 26m above the earth.
tour operators (see p78) can similarly make the arrangements. and are the spiritual home to the Kel Ahaggar, one of the major Tuareg
ideal for minimising the The Grand Erg Oriental is
confederations of the central Sahara. The most popular – and undoubt-
chafing of riding a camel. believed by geologists to
Cycling edly most spectacular – route climbs steeply up from Tamanrasset to the
have been a sand sea for
Cycling in the Sahara seems about as likely as skiing (see p198). But think plateau of Atakor and Assekrem (p188); it’s possible to take this route
at least 4000 years.
about it a little more and you’ll quickly come to the realisation that the by either camel or 4WD. If your time is short, you can go as far as As-
arduous but infinitely rewarding trails of the Hoggar Mountains (p189) sekrem and return to Tamanrasset the following day; even if the crowds
could be a mountain-biker’s paradise. that make this trek fill the route with anything but a desert solitude, don’t
Asking Algerian travel agencies about cycling tours is likely to inspire miss it. If you’ve more time, there are countless opportunities to leave the
blank looks, and suitable two-wheeled transport is almost impossible to crowds behind and explore further afield.
find in Algeria so you’ll need to bring your own bicycle or mountain bike
and spare parts. For international tour companies offering advice and/or Tassili N’Ajjer
cycling tours to the Hoggar Mountains, see p79. The rocky plateau that makes up the Tassili N’Ajjer National Park is
only accessible on foot and you could easily spend a week trekking atop
ROUTES the plateau and down into the deep rocky valleys for which the region
The possibilities are endless. What follows is our pick of the best.
Cyclists planning to travel
through the Algerian
Western Oases & Grand Erg Occidental ENCOUNTERS WITH THE TUAREG
Sahara should consider
For those of you with a passion for desert oasis towns and sand seas of in- Although many travellers encounter the Tuareg as guides or drivers, there are still small numbers
contacting Bicycle Africa
comparable beauty, but with no desire to mount a major expedition, the of Tuareg families who live a traditional life across southern Algeria. Most live in semipermanent
through www.ibike.org
road from Aïn Sefra to Ghardaïa (see above) could be for you. The road shelters, although it’s not uncommon to find young Tuareg girls or boys herding their goats in
/bikeafrica; it has some
encircles the southern half of the Grand Erg Occidental and expeditions remote oueds (dry riverbeds) or old Tuareg men similarly far from home.
information on cycling in
into the sands can be arranged from both Taghit (p165) and Timimoun If you do encounter the Tuareg in this manner, there are a few things to remember. The most
the country.
(p169). The Grand Erg Occidental itself is one of the largest and most important is that these families live in the Hoggar or Tassili N’Ajjer because they choose to
beautiful sand seas in the Sahara. pursue a traditional lifestyle, not for the benefit of tourists. An increasingly exploitative relation-
ship threatens that choice and Tuareg families are in danger of becoming a tourist sideshow as
The Grand Erg Oriental foreigners seek to meet an ‘authentic’ Tuareg family. It’s a difficulty faced by indigenous peoples
The northern limits of the Grand Erg Oriental can be seen from the road the world over and the most important thing to remember is to behave with the utmost discre-
between Ouargla and El-Oued and this section can be travelled by public tion. If you meet an elderly Tuareg man, address him as ‘Sheikh’ or ‘Haj’ as a mark of respect.
transport. The paved road south from Touggourt bisects the erg as it runs The Tuareg are a mine of information about the region and its history and spending time talking
all the way down to Illizi (for an itinerary see p20), although you would with them is far more important than sneaking a photo.
really need your own vehicle for this journey. The Tuareg have, of course, learnt the ways of the world. Many will only allow their photos to
Like its western counterpart, the Grand Erg Oriental is a signature be taken if you pay money or buy something from them, while one old Tuareg man said that he
Saharan sand sea, and international tour operators can organise journeys allowed photos to be taken by those with a digital camera so that he could then see himself! To
south from Hassi Messaoud. After crossing the erg, the routes diverge, avoid it becoming a one-way encounter, consider making a small contribution to fuel or firewood
with some heading for Illizi (three days) and the Tassili N’Ajjer, while stocks, or purchasing one of the small items they offer for sale.
One area of the Algerian
others pass through Amguid – the site of a Tuareg massacre of a French Some nomadic Tuareg openly wonder whether this will be the last generation of their people
Sahara that is considered
military expedition in 1881 (see p32) – before entering the Hoggar who live a traditional life. Older Tuareg lament the loss of traditional ways and you’ll come across
off-limits at present is the
Mountains from the north (three days). Another possibility is to cross an Tuareg men who know how to drive a 4WD but for whom the camel is a relative mystery. Many
Tanezrouft, the desolate
arm of the erg by leaving El-Oued bound for Deb Deb (three days). Tuareg have been forced to move into the cities of the Sahara and further afield by government
and often trackless area
policies, droughts and decades of war and rebellion.
of the Sahara west of
The Trans-Saharan Highway Perhaps moving with a changing world is merely a continuation of the Tuareg’s innate adapt-
Tamanrasset and south of
Although the Trans-Saharan Hwy sees far fewer travellers than it used ability, which they learnt through the centuries while coping with the world’s most hostile en-
Reggane and across the
to, the route from Ghardaïa down into Niger is part of Saharan travel- vironment. And yet, the gradual erosion of traditional Tuareg ways as a result first of colonial
border into Mali.
ling legend and completing it remains a significant notch on the belt of invasion, then government and tourist intrusion into the Tuareg realm has led many to worry
seasoned Saharan travellers. ‘Highway’ is something of a loosely applied that an entire way of life is in danger of disappearing. If it does, it would be one of the great
term as wind-blown sand and the impossibility of regular maintenance tragedies of Saharan history.
have meant that the road can be difficult even to find. Although in theory
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is famous. It’s also possible to trek for shorter periods. For descriptions Lost Frontiers (www.lostfrontiers.com) Three-week tour.
of possible routes, see p195. Point Afrique (www.point-afrique.com in French) Extensive range of personally tailored and
group tours.
Tamanrasset to Djanet SabléO (www.sableo.com) Regular cycling trips to the Hoggar Mountains.
The 676km-, three-day route from Tamanrasset takes you via Assekrem Sahara Travel (www.saharatravel.co.uk) Self-drive 4WD expeditions.
Sahara Unveiled by and Ideles to Djanet. If you add on an exploration of the Tassili N’Ajjer, Terres d’Aventure (www.terdav.com in French) Tours and family-friendly trips suited to kids.
William Langeweische is you will have covered the stand-out attractions of Algeria’s southern
a beautifully told account Sahara. Travel agencies in Tamanrasset (p185) and Djanet (p191) can
of his journey along the organise 4WD expeditions along this route. To complete this trek astride
Trans-Saharan Hwy with a camel would take a minimum of two weeks one-way.
a uncomfortable detour
to the Tassili N’Ajjer TOUR OPERATORS
before tourism arrived. If this is your first journey to the Sahara, or if you can’t face the logistics
of organising your own expedition, there are dozens of recommended
Algerian and international tour operators to choose from.
Algerian Operators
Akar Akar (x029 344638; www.akar-akar.com in French; Tamanrasset) Long-established
Tamanrasset agency with tours around the Hoggar.
Club d’Aventure Africaine (x021 697922; www.caa-dz.com in French; 7 rue des Frères
Oughlis, Algiers) Allows you to organise everything from Algiers.
Essendilène Voyages (x029 475295; www.essendilene-voyages.com; Djanet) Has strong
local contacts and is especially good if you’re planning to cross into Niger, but also offers tours that
include yoga, art therapy and family-friendly activities.
Hoggar Soleil (x029 346972; www.hoggarsoleil.com in French; Tamanrasset) Four- to 14-day
treks through the Hoggar and Tassili N’Ajjer.
Immidir Voyages (x029 344468; www.immidir-voyages.com; Tamanrasset) Offers 4WD treks
and tours around the Immidir region.
Mer de Sable (x049 902595; www.agence-merdesable.com; rue Abd el-Kader Ziadi, Timi-
moun) Trips in camel caravans and by 4WD into the Grand Erg Occidental.
M’Zab Tours (x029 880002; [email protected]; ave du 1er Novembre, Ghardaïa)
The Tuaregs by Karl G Tailored tours around the M’Zab and the Grand Ergs.
Prasse is one of the most Tarakeft Voyages (x029 342007; www.tarakeft.com; Tamanrasset) Runs 4WD and trekking
accessible reads about tours in the Hoggar and Mali.
the Tuareg of Algeria and Timbeur Voyages (x029 475270; www.voyages-timbeur.com; Djanet) Short trips around
their history of occupying Djanet and into the Tassili N’Ajjer.
the Algerian south. Timtar Expeditions (x029 346038; www.timtar.com; Djanet) Creative camel treks and 4WD
expeditions.
Walene Voyages (x029 344229; www.walene-voyages.com in French; Tamanrasset) Range of
tours including camel treks to Assekrem.
Zeriba Voyages (x061 382853/346924; www.zeribavoyage.com in French; Djanet) Tassili
N’Ajjer treks and the Djanet–Tamanrasset route.
International Operators
All of the following agencies can arrange treks through the Hoggar
Mountains and Tassili N’Ajjer.
Adventures Abroad (www.adventures-abroad.com) Small group tour.
Cheche Tours (www.chechetours.com) Excellent range of tours, some of which extend into Niger
and Mali.
Explore Worldwide (www.explore.co.uk) Limited range of small-group tours.
Hommes et Montagnes (www.hommes-et-montagnes.fr in French) Eight- to 22-day treks
ranked according to difficulty.
La Route du Sahara (www.laroutedusahara.com) Cultural tours to Djanet, and de Foucauld
‘spiritual treks’.
Les Matins du Monde (www.lesmatinsdumonde.com in French) Tours and rock-climbing.
80 lonelyplanet.com S A HA R A N R O C K A R T • • T h e C l i m a t i c C o n t e x t 81
the attention of the outside world. Two German explorers of the Sahara,
Saharan Rock Art Heinrich Barth and Gustav Nachtigal, reported their findings and even
made sketches of some of the pieces in the 19th century, but it was not until
the middle of the 20th century that serious studies of the art were carried
Travels and Discoveries in
North and Central Africa,
Algeria shares with neighbouring Libya and Niger one of the finest collec- out. Frenchman Henri Lhote visited the Tassili N’Ajjer in the 1930s and by Heinrich Barth,
tions of prehistoric rock art in the world, and seeking out the finely ren- was so intrigued that he returned two decades later, in 1956, to undertake includes the author’s
dered paintings and carvings of Algeria’s south is one of the undoubted a major catalogue of the region’s art. Although it would be left to later 1850s discovery of the
highlights of a visit to the country. These are more than mere paintings archaeologists to investigate the meaning of what he saw, Lhote was the rock art of the Tassili
on remote rock walls. Many date back 12,000 years. Many depict animals first to delineate the distinct periods from which the art dates and to realise N’Ajjer.
African Rock Art, by that haven’t been seen in these parts for millennia and which are impos- that the images told of the ‘spiritual and religious existence of the different
David Coulson and sible to imagine in the barren heart of the world’s largest desert. Indeed, peoples which followed on, one after another’. At the same time, just across
Alec Campbell, is the there is something at once poignant and improbable about standing amid the border in the Jebel Acacus of Libya, a team from the University of Rome
definitive text on the the splendid, parched cathedrals and finding images that tell the story of led by Professor Fabrizio Mori performed a similar task, proving that bor-
rock art of Africa, with when the Sahara was a green and fertile land rich in water and wildlife. ders have never been a barrier to the flourishing of artistic creativity. The
informative narrative Many thoughts spring to mind as you contemplate the extraordinary work done by these specialists and their successors was critical in ensuring
sections on the Sahara detail, the whimsical beauty that the images portray. The most obvious that the Tassili N’Ajjer, like the Jebel Acacus in Libya, was inscribed on
and lavish photographs response is one of wonder. In many ways the wonder we feel when view- Unesco’s World Heritage List of Endangered and Protected Sites.
and illustrations. ing rock art may not be so dissimilar from the wonder when confronted
with the improbability of a giraffe, for example, which prompted the THE CLIMATIC CONTEXT The English Patient
artists to paint the images in the first place. When the Ice Age was at its coldest in the northern hemisphere, around (directed by Anthony
How on earth have such seemingly fragile works of art survived the 20,000 years ago (18,000 BC), it ushered in a period of low rainfall and Minghella): yes, it’s pure
considerable ravages of time? How is it that the artists who left behind barren landscapes across the Sahara – much the same as prevails today. Hollywood and no, it
these masterpieces were able to capture a sense of childlike simplicity in With the thaw of the Ice Age 12,000 years ago (10,000 BC), the climate wasn’t filmed in Algeria,
their conception of the natural world but do so with such exceptional of the Sahara again became temperate and wild animals and people re- but no film captures
skill? How different was the Saharan world they inhabited that creatures, turned to occupy most of the region. This was the Sahara’s golden age, the excitement of the
such as the elephant, giraffe and lion once roamed these wadis? And who when the region was bathed in what we would now call a Mediterranean discovery of Saharan rock
were they, these great artists whose work still captivates us? climate, when vegetation and water were as plentiful as the wild animals art quite like this.
Most of the answers we know, but like any great mystery in this Sa- that now adorn so many rock walls. At such a period in history the Sa-
haran landscape of the imagination, there are many about which we can hara must have been a great place to live, with ample prey for hunters
only speculate. and a natural world that provided more than enough food for the small
numbers of people spread across this immense land.
THE DISCOVERY OF SAHARAN ROCK ART Another possible dry spell approximately 8000 years ago (6000 BC) saw
Although the indigenous Tuareg inhabitants of the Sahara have known the introduction of domesticated cattle from the west, but for the next
about the rock art in their midst for centuries, it has only recently captured 3000 years the Sahara continued to be covered with savanna, year-round
lakes, pastureland and acacia trees. The temperate, often humid climate
continued until 4500 years ago (2500 BC), when the last transition com-
WHO WERE THE ARTISTS? menced and the Sahara began to become the vast, arid desert that it is
The question of who sat on rocky ledges mixing their paints or chipping painstakingly away at today, a process that was drawn out over 1500 years. Perennial lakes were
the rock is one that continues to baffle archaeologists and rock-art specialists, inviting speculation replaced by more-seasonal water sources and, as the region became pro- One painting discovered
that has intrigued European travellers for centuries. In 1850 the great German explorer Heinrich gressively drier, oases replaced lakeside and mountain villages as the sites by Henri Lhote in the
Barth visited the Tassili N’Ajjer of southwestern Algeria and wrote that ‘No barbarian could have of settlements and agricultural or pastoral activity. It was also the period Tassili N’Ajjer and called
graven the lines with such astonishing firmness, and given to all the figures the light, natural in which trans-Saharan trade became the dominant economic activity, fos- The Negro Mask bears a
shape which they exhibit’. tered by an increased reliance on chariots, then horses and finally camels, striking resemblance to
Some archaeologists attribute the images to the Neolithic ancestors of the modern Tuareg, which were introduced to the Sahara 2200 years ago (200 BC). the masks later used by
the people who remained in the Sahara as the climate dried. Others claim that the Garamantes In addition to providing a human complement to geological studies of the Senoufo people of
people, who inhabited Wadi al-Ajal across the border in Libya to the northwest from 900 BC to the Sahara’s history, the Saharan rock art provides an invaluable resource West Africa.
AD 500, were responsible, for they were a sophisticated people who made the desert bloom depicting humankind’s changing relationship with nature. The shift from
long after the rains stopped and other Saharan peoples fled south. Both claims may indeed be a time when wild animals were dominant over humans towards domesti-
true, but the fact that much of the art predates these groups suggests that they were merely cation and a taming of the natural environment through food production
following a tradition set in motion by earlier indigenous inhabitants of the region. and more intensive land-use practices could be Saharan rock art’s most
The local Tuareg believe that the ancient artists saw their art as a school for their descendants, enlightening legacy.
a history book of what they saw and how they lived. Or as one Tuareg told us, ‘perhaps they
were people like we are today, because human beings always like to leave their mark, to leave TYPES OF ROCK ART
something behind that will remain long after we have gone.’ The two main types of rock art in the Sahara are paintings and carvings
(also known as petroglyphs).
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human and animal figures. Often stylised, the human figures are shown
WHY ROCK ART MATTERS in many different poses, from what may have been portraits to scenes
When the rock art of the Sahara was discovered by the outside world in the 19th century, of hunting, celebration and even making love, while animals are most
few Europeans could believe that the paintings and engravings were the work of what were frequently shown in motion, often pursued by hunters.
at the time believed to be the primitive cultures of Africa. Subsequent studies have proved It is believed that in
18,000 BC the Sahara was
such assumptions to be wrong and this is perhaps one of rock art’s greatest legacies: African PERIODS OF SAHARAN ROCK ART larger than it is today,
civilisations may not have left many written records, but their civilisations were as advanced The rock art of North Africa is thought to have its origins almost 12,000
reaching far into West
as any in Europe at the time. As such, Saharan rock art is a priceless record of an otherwise years ago (10,000 BC) in the central Sahara, although some historians
and even Central African
undocumented period of African history, representing as it does the earliest known form of believe that many paintings or carvings could date back even further.
regions that we now
African communication. Although centuries of exposure to the elements have made it difficult to
know as the Sahel.
The evidence of symbolic and religious inspiration behind the art – many studies point to precisely date much of the rock art, most of the examples to be found in
religious symbolism as the primary motivation behind the art – suggests that the natural world the Algerian Sahara fall within five relatively discrete historical periods.
was central to the spiritual life of the ancients, thereby deepening our understanding of the The first of these is most commonly known as the Wild Fauna Period
ancient world. (10,000–6000 BC); other names include the Early Hunter Period and the
By providing a detailed snapshot of the region’s human, geographical and climatic history, Bubalus Period after a species of giant buffalo that became extinct 5000
the rock art also provides a salutary lesson to the modern world in these days of creeping years ago. This era is characterised by the portrayal of elephants, giraffes,
environmental catastrophe. After all, the artists of the green and pleasant land that the Sahara crocodiles, hippopotamuses, rhinoceroses and lions from the time when
once was almost certainly never imagined that their world would one day become a desert. Not the Sahara was covered by the plentiful savanna.
only is Saharan rock art a powerful reminder to not assume that the natural world as we know it The Round Head Period (8000–6000 BC), overlapping its forerunner, is
Met Museum – Timeline
will last forever, how well we protect art work that has survived the millennia but is now under known for human figures with formless bodies and painted, circular heads
of Art History (www
threat from our supposedly advanced civilisation (see p84) will also provide important signs as devoid of features. Paintings from this period are found only in the Tassili
.metmuseum.org/toah
to whether we are capable of protecting the human heritage of those who went before us. N’Ajjer and nearby Jebel Acacus in Libya, and often take on enormous
/hd/nroc/hd_nroc.htm)
Rock-art specialists are also keen to point out that the human history represented in the proportions. Women are often shown with arms raised, perhaps calling for
is a compact introduction
Sahara is our own heritage with strong links to the artistic influences of the Western world. blessings from the massive male figures alongside. During this period the
to the art of the Sahara,
For example, in African Rock Art, David Coulson and Alec Campbell argue that the breaking people of the central Sahara are believed to have been foragers in the era
with a section dedicated
down of boundaries in European art in the early 20th century, which led to genres such as the prior to the appearance of domesticated stock. Its later stages feature more
to the Tassili N’Ajjer.
Cubism of Picasso and others, was inspired by the masks and statuettes of sub-Saharan Africa, decorative figures adorned with headdresses and unusual clothing.
art forms which may have themselves derived from the artists of the Sahara before they were The next era was the Pastoral Period (5500–2000 BC), also known as
driven south by a drying climate. the Bovidian Period, which coincides with the gradual transition from a
There is also a belief among some archaeologists that it was from the Sahara that such art temperate to arid climate. As such, this period in some ways marks the
spread to Ethiopia, Kenya and Egypt; and the Egyptian artists possibly drew on the Saharan art beginning of the modern Saharan world. Accordingly, human figures are
for inspiration in the great subsequent flourishing of Egyptian art. shown in positions of dominance over the natural world, with spears,
domesticated cattle, diminishing wild animals and ceremonies in keep-
ing with more settled communities. Paintings of boats and the arrival
The paintings (also called pictographs) were usually applied using a of people with less Negroid features in the Tassili N’Ajjer also feature.
brush made of feathers or animal hair, a spatula made of stick or bone Curiously, experts also believe that this was when the skill of the artists
or the fingers of the artist. To ensure accurate proportions, the artists are began to show a decrease in quality.
believed to have painted the images in outline and then coloured them The Horse Period (1000 BC–AD 1) followed, with many images of
Rock Art in Africa: Mythol-
in. Most of the paintings in Algeria are red, which was achieved through horses or horse-drawn chariots, some seemingly propelled through the The strange letters
ogy and Legend, by Jean-
the use of a wet pigment thought to have been derived from ground-and- air, reflecting the fact that transport and movement became more so- which appear on some
Loic Le Quellec, is another
burned stone; the colouration came from soft rock containing oxidised phisticated and enabled relatively long-distance travel. Cattle are by far rock walls are from the
wonderful book that
iron (hematite or ochre). A liquid binder was then applied, most often the dominant forms. Human figures from this period are represented by Tifinagh alphabet of the
will have you imagining
egg-white or milk, although urine, animal fat and blood were also used two triangles, one upright and one upside down, joined at the apex with Tuareg, although many
remote desert worlds
on occasion. It is to these binding agents that we owe the remarkable a circular head on top. Much of the Tuareg writing (Tifinagh) alongside modern Tuareg are
and the people who once
longevity of the paintings. the paintings is from this period. unable to read the letters
inhabited them.
The carvings were achieved through a method known as ‘pecking’, The final era of Saharan rock art was the Camel Period (200 BC– in their ancient form.
which involved the use of a heavy, sharp stone. A second stone was present). Camels became the Sahara’s beast of burden and they are shown
sometimes used to bang the sharp stone like a pick. Like the paintings, in abundance during this period. Paintings from the earliest part of this
the outline was usually completed first, often by scratching. Upon com- period are of the highest quality while more recent ones are nowhere
pletion, some of the lines were ground smooth and, on occasion, the near as finely conceived.
rock face was smoothed first as a form of preparation. After metal was
introduced to the Sahara around 3200 years ago (1200 BC), a metal spike WHERE TO SEE ROCK ART IN ALGERIA
may have been used. The desert realm of remote massifs in the far southeast of Algeria is
Although the varieties of subject matter across the many open-air gal- littered with rock paintings and carvings, but it is the Tassili N’Ajjer
leries of Saharan rock art are endless, the two most common forms are National Park (p194) that qualifies as the premier rock-art site anywhere
84 S A HA R A N R O C K A R T • • T h e P r o t e c t i o n o f R o c k A r t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S A HA R A N R O C K A R T • • R o c k A r t A s s o c i a t i o n s 85
in the world. Home to more than 15,000 petroglyphs and pictographs

spread over 80,000 sq km, the Tassili N’Ajjer is the Louvre, Prado and ROCK ART RULES OF ENGAGEMENT
Uffizi of the rock-art world rolled into one and if you came to Algeria and It seems extraordinary that we should have to say this, but the basic rule of observing rock art
saw only the Tassili N’Ajjer, you’d leave more than satisfied. is to leave the paintings and engravings as you find them.
The carving known as That’s not to say that there are not impressive rock art sites elsewhere, More specifically, the various organisations dedicated to studying and protecting rock art (see
la Vache qui Pleu (Crying and in most cases you’ll find them to be less overrun with large groups below) have laid out a number of guidelines that you should follow in order to avoid accelerating
Cows) at Tagharghart is of tourists. In addition to the neighbouring national park, there are some the natural deterioration of the art:
considered one of the fine sites close to Djanet, especially the iconic engraving of la Vache qui Never touch the rock art – sweat and your skin’s natural oils speed up the process of fading,
masterpieces of Saharan Pleu (Crying Cows) at Tagharghart (p194), while the paintings are also while the wearing down of rock by touching is similarly damaging.
rock art and experts outstanding at Tamdjert (p191), close to Illizi.
Never throw liquids on a painting or outline an image in chalk to enhance its photogenic
believe that the artist Elsewhere, the Tassili du Hoggar (p189) provides an even more spec-
qualities – the damage to desert varnish is irreparable.
spent months studying tacular backdrop to the paintings and engravings, with the latter espe-
the site before beginning. cially fine at Tin Tarabine (p190). Never remove even the most ordinary stones from a rock art site – these may be critical for
Away to the northwest, the rarely visited Tassili d’Immidir (p182) has future scientific studies of the site; this is Algeria’s national heritage and not yours to steal.
hundreds of fine paintings, a wildly beautiful landscape and scarcely a Never for a minute imagine that you are improving the open-air gallery by adding your own
tourist in sight. The Tassili d’Immidir can be accessed from either In graffiti – what you’re observing is art, what you add is vandalism.
Salah or Tamanrasset.
Never walk atop an engraving or painting in order to get a better view or enable a more
There are also some rock engravings at Taghit (p165) on the western
favourable photographic angle – pieces can break off and the loss of desert varnish inhibits
fringe of the Grand Erg Occidental.
future study of the site.
THE PROTECTION OF ROCK ART Try to avoid getting too close to the rock and leaving a mass of footprints and tyre tracks
The rock art of the Sahara may have proved to be extraordinarily durable alongside – it spoils it for everyone else, especially photographers, and will continue to scar
Le Grand Dieu du Sefar down through the millennia, but it has never been endangered like it is the environs for years.
(The Great God of Sefar) today. While the local Tuareg proudly seek to safeguard the art forms and Take out with you all rubbish (including cigarette butts, water bottles and cans) that you carry
in the Tassili N’Ajjer rises have lived alongside them for millennia, the same can’t be said for tourists to the site.
over 3.25m tall and, and oil companies prospecting in desert areas – their increasing encroach- If camping in a rock-art area, never set up camp closer than 100m to a rock-art site.
according to Henri Lhote, ment into the rock-art world is the major threat to the art’s survival.
dates back 8000 years Although oil companies have caused some damage through their pros- Respect the right of other travellers to view the rock art in silence and free from human toilet
and belongs to the Round pecting, one company has set up plans for the art’s preservation. refuse.
Head Period of Saharan While the vast majority of tourists respect the rock art and leave it as
rock art. they found it, a greedy few have decided that it would make a beautiful (or
lucrative) souvenir of their visit to Algeria. Other than security concerns, ROCK ART ASSOCIATIONS
the subsequent belief by the Algerian authorities that tourists cannot be If you want to learn more about Saharan rock art or about efforts being
trusted is central to the requirement that visits to southern Algeria can undertaken to preserve rock art across Africa, contact the outstanding
only be undertaken with a professional guide. Trust for African Rock Art (TARA; x254-20-884467; www.africanrockart.org; PO Box 24122,
Algeria’s suspicion of travellers on this score has not been misplaced. Nairobi, Kenya). It’s also worth keeping an eye on its upcoming expeditions to
One of the most publicised cases came in 2004, when five German tour- see if the association is heading to Algeria and whether you can join it.
ists went missing. Fearing a terrorist abduction, the Algerian authorities In Germany the Heinrich-Barth-Institut (x0221-556680; [email protected];
mounted a massive search, only to discover that the tourists in ques- www.archaeoafrica.de) at the University of Köln is also dedicated to the study
tions had deliberately escaped their guide to go rock art hunting. They of rock art, while the American Rock Art Research Association (www.arara.org) flies
were finally discovered with a distressing array of 130 rock art pieces the flag in the USA.
in their bags. They were sentenced to three months in prison and fined In France the excellent nonprofit Association des Amis de l’Art Rupestre
UK£262,000. Saharien (http://aars.fr/index_en.html) promotes studies of Saharan rock art and
Sadly, such stories are all too common in Algeria, as well as in neigh- has a range of publications and forums for discussion.
Bradshaw Foundation bouring Libya and Niger. Acts of vandalism have included chipping
(www.bradshawfounda away sections of the rock wall and throwing water on the paintings
tion.com/africa/) contains to enhance the light for taking photographs, as well as using complex
up-to-date news on rock- silicon processes designed to copy the paintings, all of which have
art protection, as well as placed in jeopardy the survival of art forms that have existed for over
galleries of photos from 12 millennia. © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
Saharan rock-art sites. In addition to damage caused by humans, the impact of the Sahara’s restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
harsh climate is also playing a part. On a recent visit to the Jebel Acacus
of Libya, we found a badly faded painting that was vividly colourful just
five years ago. The cause? Unusually heavy rains that caused water to run everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
down the rock, thereby erasing the painting. the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
86 lonelyplanet.com A L G I E R S • • H i s t o r y 87
Algiers
ALGIERS & AROUND
ALGIERS & AROUND

ALGIERS ‫اﻟﺠﺰاﺋﺮ‬ the citadel now stands. The site was ideal,
the place well planned and for 300 years,
Algiers & Around x021 / pop 3.3 million

El-Djezaïr remained the pre-eminent Medi-
terranean pirate base that even the mighty
British navy proved unable to destroy.
HISTORY Under Mohamed ben Osmane Khodja,
The beginning could not be more roman- dey from 1766–91, El-Djezaïr flourished
tic: legend tells that 20 companions of the into a well-fortified city of 100,000 inhabit-
Algiers ‘la blanche’, the white one, is what the French called the capital of Algeria. A big, hero Hercules sailed into the bay and settled ants. The city became increasingly rich as
bustling, whitewashed city, with the Mediterranean out front, hills and rich farmland behind, here. The truth of the city’s earliest origins one of the trailheads for the trans-Saharan
Algiers (El-Djazaïr in Arabic) is an exciting destination and the gateway to the country’s is lost in the sand or still buried beneath caravans, as well as from demanding tribute
interior.
modern buildings, but there are clear signs from passing ships and taking action if the
that the bay, with its perfect natural harbour, tribute was denied: there are many stories
Algiers was the most successful of all the Barbary pirate bases, especially in the 16th attracted early settlers. The Phoenicians used of both Christian and Muslim ships being
it as a staging post between Carthage in the captured by Algerian pirates, with all hands
century under the most remarkable pirate of all, Kheireddin Barbarossa. It was also the most
east and the pillars of Hercules to the west. on board either being ransomed or pressed
cherished of all French colonial centres. And since independence in 1962, it has been the For many centuries it was a convenient an- into slavery. It was during this period that
political, economic and cultural hub of an extremely large and culturally and geographically chorage fought over by passing powers – the many of the most interesting buildings in
diverse country. The largest port in northwest Africa and the largest city too, it now spreads Romans took it in 146 BC, the Vandals swept the city were constructed.
far to accommodate a population that has doubled in 20 years. through in the 5th century AD, during the British Admiral Nelson bombarded the
6th century the Byzantines retook it and de- port in 1804, hoping to slow the move-
Algiers suffered along with the rest of the country during the ‘black years’ of the 1990s. veloped a small Christian community, and ment of slaves; it didn’t work. In 1815 it
in 650 it came under Arab control – but it was the turn of Commodore Decatur and
Since then, it has seen a strange split in its fortunes. You don’t have to walk far in the
remained insignificant until the 10th century his American squadron: they captured the
centre to see people hanging around with nothing to do. All capitals have their jobless and and the emergence of a strong ruler. The Algerian flagship and forced the dey of El-
homeless, but they look out of place in a country that has just paid off its foreign debt. local Berber leader Bologhin ibn Ziri took Djezaïr into an agreement to end tribute
Thanks mainly to oil and gas revenue, there has never been so much cash in the city – the control of the region in the 970s, after the and slavery. Decatur was dubbed the ‘con-
state is spending large sums and there is a sense among some individuals that money is Fatimid moved their capital from Mahdia queror of the Barbary pirates’. In August
(Tunisia) to Cairo, and named the city El- the following year a British and a Dutch
there to be made. The number of new cars choking the main roads is a sign of growing Djezaïr, as it is still called today. squadron were sent to secure the release
personal prosperity. Successive Maghrebi rulers – the sultans of the British consul and more than 1000
from Tlemcen, Fès and elsewhere – always other Christians held captive in the city.
Yet, in its rush to modernise Algiers has still preserved some of its old mystique; it has ensured they had control of the port, which The commander of the British ships, Ad-
a strong sense of identity and is still dazzlingly white. still only had local strategic importance. All miral Pellew, again bombarded the city into
this changed in the 16th century when the submission, and forced the dey to abandon
great powers of the Mediterranean, the his palace for the safety of the citadel.
Spanish, French, Venetians, Genoese and The continuing threat of piracy in the
Algiers Ottomans, fought for control of the sea. In southern Mediterranean provided a resur-
HIGHLIGHTS Tipaza 1510 the proselytising Spanish took control, gent France with the pretext it needed to
Lie low in the Casbah (p93) – follow but eight years later in an inspired move, move south. Their hope was to counterbal-
pirates and princes through the lower part the inhabitants declared themselves sub- ance British influence in the Mediterranean
of Algiers’ old town jects of the Ottoman sultan and called on by controlling the southern straits of one of
the Greek pirates, Aroudj and his younger the sea’s more narrow passages. On 14 June
Sip a cold drink in the garden of the Hôtel
brother Kheireddin Barbarossa to protect 1830, a force of 37,612 Frenchmen landed
el-Djazaïr (p102), the old St Georges
them. After Aroudj was killed fighting on the beach of Sidi Ferruch, just north of
Visit the ruins of Tipaza (p104) to see the Spanish, Barbarossa led the fight and the city. The French claimed they had no
how sweet life must have been here finally defeated his more powerful adver- initial plan to establish a colony, but in 1834
2000 years ago sary in 1529, establishing the regency of they officially annexed much of northern
Roll up your sleeves to enjoy a plate of El-Djezaïr and becoming High Admiral of Algeria, making Algiers the capital of their
seafood at one of the many seafood the Ottoman navy. new colony.
restaurants (p100) Barbarossa established the city as we can The city was rebuilt under French rule.
see it – the harbour with its protective arm, The citadel, with its strategic position, was
Live like a king, or at least a prince, at the
tipped with a lighthouse; the huddled houses strengthened to ensure security and a large
Palais des Raïs (p95)
of the Casbah sloping up the hill; the look- area of the lower Casbah was demolished to
out and fortifications on the hilltop where make way for new roads. After the French
ALGIERS & AROUND
0 300 m
ALGIERS 0 0.2 miles
To Auberge du Moulin; Dar MEDITERRANEAN

INFORMATION Lahlou; Hilton Algiers Hotel; To Palais des SEA
Raïs Bastion 23
88 A L G I E R S
Centre Culturel Français...............1 D5 Notre Dame d'Afrique;

Star Studio/Sheraton Club
CHU Mustapha Pasha..................2 C8 les Pins; Tipaza & Cherchell
Cyber ADSL................................. 3 D5
Cybersoli......................................4 C7
German Embassy.........................5 A7
kri
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Goethe Institut.............................6 A7 As
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Grande Poste............................... 7 D6 ne in
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Librairie des Beaux-Arts...............8 C7 eA el-K
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Librairie du Tiers Monde..............9 D5 r 22
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Office Nationale de Tourisme.....10 E3 da
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ONAT........................................11 B8 k
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Pharmacie l'Opéra..................... 12 D4 ra
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Planéte Internet.........................13 C7 Ab
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SNCM-Ferryterranee..................14 E4 vd
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Touring Voyages Algérie........... 15 D4 Casbah 20

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Blvd el-Kettar
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16 19 d 38
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Blv
Dar Aziza Bent el-Bey.................16 E2
29 40 39
Dar Hassan Pacha.......................
Blvd M
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17 E2 Pl des
Djemaa Ali Bitchine.....................
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Djemaa el-Djedid........................19 E2
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Citadel
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Djemaa el-Kebir..........................20 E2
Djemaa Ketchoua.......................21 E2
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Grand Hôtel des Étrangers......... 24 D4 dd ad
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Hôtel Arago...............................27 D4 Pl Passenger
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Hôtel el-Aurassi..........................28 B5
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Pa L'Arc en Ciel..............................36 D5
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To Bar Dey; Bardo Museum; Love Tour................................(see 11)

R N Mennani
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Mili Voyages Algérie..................61 C7
French Embassy; Hôtel el-Djazaïr;
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National Museum of Antiquities; Moudjahid; Musée des Beaux Arts; Rapide Car...............................(see 28)
Pasha Nightclub Palais de la Culture
A L G I E R S 89
ALGIERS & AROUND

ALGIERS & AROUND 90 A L G I E R S • • O r i e n t a t i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com A L G I E R S • • I n f o r m a t i o n 91
ALGIERS & AROUND

emperor Napoléon III and his wife, the em- mercial and business centre, where you will
press Eugénie, visited in 1860, the area south find the major shops, banks, hotels and the ALGIERS IN…
of the Casbah was laid out as the Ville Nou- post office. The train station and gare mari- Two Days
velle, with broad boulevards and large build- time (ferry terminal) are only five minutes’ The obvious place to start the first day would be the citadel, above the Haute Cas-
ings. It was, in the words of an old colon walk north of this area, and the gare routière bah, but as it is closed for the foreseeable future, start with a coffee or mint tea on
(colonial) sifting through his memories, ‘one (bus station) 20 minutes to the south. the terrace of the Tontonville Café ( p101 ), watching the crowd and money-chang-
of the most beautiful cities the French ever Algiers is a good city to walk in, espe- ers on place Port Said. Visit the Palais des Raïs ( p95 ) and then follow the lower
built’. It also became part of metropolitan cially in the lower town (see the walking Casbah walk (p97), which takes in the best of the old town. Save the afternoon for museums –
France, unlike other French-controlled cities tour p97). However, you are advised against the Bardo Museum (p96) and the National Museum of Antiquities (p96). From here you are
in North Africa, such as Tunis and Casa- walking in parts of the Casbah unless you well placed for a drink at the Hôtel el-Djazaïr (p102), or you could cross town for the spectacular
blanca, which were mere colonies. feel confident about the risks (see p92). view over the city from the Cathedral of Notre-Dame d’Afrique (p95).
Algiers’ strategic importance was under- Most sites in the centre are within walking Start early the second day, beating the rush hour, and get to Tipaza (p104). Spend the morn-
lined during WWII, when it became the distance. ing among the ruins, then have lunch at one of the restaurants beside the park, or move on to
base for Charles de Gaulle’s Free French The French adapted a grid system of roads Cherchell (p106). Drive back to Algiers before nightfall for dinner in town (p100).
army as well as the headquarters of Brit- to the curves of Algiers bay. A major high-
ish and American war planners. Winston way runs along the edge of the water, passing Three Days
Churchill and General Eisenhower were the train station, port and continuing out to If you have more time in the city, be sure to check if the Jardin d’Essai (p97) has reopened. If not,
among the power players who spent time in the airport. The city centre is raised above walk the seafront in the morning and spend the afternoon walking through the Ville Nouvelle or
the city from 1943 to the end of the war. this, with blvd Zirout Youssef serving as a at the Makam Echahid (Martyrs’ Memorial; p96) and the Musée National Du Jihad (p96).
The independence movement’s origins corniche, popular in the evenings as a place
stretch way back, but it began in earnest with to stroll and catch the evening breeze.
the end of the war – VE Day celebrations A long street, which changes name several Agir-Plus Edition has used these maps in its Internet Access
in Constantine, Guelma and especially Sétif times – rues Bab Azzoun, Ali Boumendjel, pocket-size Guide et Plans d’Alger (DA750), There’s no shortage of internet places in the
became bloody confrontations. Although Larbi ben M’Hidi, Emir Abdelkader, Di- also packed with practical information. centre, often off the main streets, in a base-
Algiers was quieter than other northern douche Mourad – joins the upper and ment or up on the 1st floor. Fees are usually
towns and cities, by the late 1950s it was the lower towns, running south from the place INFORMATION around DA50 to DA80 per hour. These are
epicentre of an increasingly savage struggle des Martyrs at the edge of the Casbah, past Bookshops among the more reliable:
to free the country, which culminated in in- the elegant place Port Said and the Grande Algiers has several bookshops, but most of Cyber ADSL (53 rue Larbi ben M’Hidi)
dependence in 1962. Poste to climb to the residential heights them only sell books in French and Arabic. Cybersoli (16 rue Hassiba ben Bouali)
Algeria’s oil and gas resources have helped lined with shops, offices and restaurants. The few English-language titles on sale tend Planète Internet (x021 643196; rue Didouche
turn the former colonial capital into a mod- Most embassies are in the suburb of to be either practical or academic. Mourad; per hr 60B)
ern city, although progress was halted in Hydra, 5km south of the centre, or in the Librairie des Beaux-Arts (x021 634014; 28 rue Di-
1992 when the military-backed government suburbs of El-Biar and Bouzaréah, all easily douche Mourad) A small but excellent shop on one of the main Medical Services
annulled an election it had just lost to an reached by taxi or by bus from place des shopping streets, with staff who know books and are happy to For medical emergencies you should call
Islamist party. The resulting violence, dur- Martyrs. help. It has a good selection of books in French about Algeria, SOS Santé (x115), but for something less
ing which corpses were regularly thrown out Traffic in Algiers has become worse in including guides, history, fiction and picture books. urgent, French speaking Dr Maouchi (x073
into the streets, cast a pall of anxiety and recent years, as the number of privately Librairie du Tiers Monde (x021 715772; place de 341322) has been recommended.
suspicion over the city, which is only now, owned cars has risen dramatically. The l’Emir Abdelkader) A larger store than the Beaux-Arts, it CHU Mustapha Pasha (x021 235555; place du 1 Mai)
and very slowly, beginning to dissipate. morning and evening rush hours are now a doesn’t have much more of a selection when it comes to One of the most central general hospitals.
real problem, and it can take hours to make French or English books. Although it does have a larger Pharmacie l’Opéra (x021 731342; 4 rue Abane
ORIENTATION a journey which, at other times, might take French-language fiction selection. Ramdane; h8am-midnight Sat-Thu, 5pm-midnight Fri)
Algiers spreads around a huge crescent bay, half an hour. This place is particularly helpful.
hemmed in by steep hills and facing north Cultural Centres
into the Mediterranean. The city skyline is Maps Centre Culturel Français (x021 730100; 7 rue Has- Money
dominated by two structures, both impos- The Institut National de Cartographie et de Télé- sani Issad) The most active of the foreign cultural centres, Algiers is awash with ATMs, but only one
sible to miss. To the south of the centre is the détecion (INCT;x021 739260; 20 rue Abane Ramdane) it has a library and theatre-cinema. is likely to accept foreign cards, the Crédit
92m-high Makam Eshahid (Martyrs’ Memo- is the state mapping agency and produces Goethe Institut (x021 741959; 165 Chemin de Populaire d’Algérie (x021 635687; blvd Colonel Ami-
rial), and closer to the city centre, a concrete excellent 1:7500 large-scale sheet maps of Sfindja) Housed in the German embassy, it stages theatre rouche), and even that is not to be relied on.
box rises on pillars above the whitewashed the city. You usually have to buy them in and screens films around town. Travellers cheques can be cashed at several
colonial city, the five-star Hôtel Aurassi. sets of six, but Sheet 1.5 covers all of central Palais de la Culture (x021 291010; Les Anassers, large banks near the Grande Poste, but it is
The Casbah, the heart of the old or ‘upper’ Algiers, from Bologhine in the north to be- Kouba) Stages music and literary events. slow, as is drawing cash on Visa. There are
town, fills the hillside above the northern yond the transport hubs at Sidi Mohamed in many Western Union branches, the most
part of the port, and is topped by the citadel. the south (and with a larger-scale inset of the Emergency central at the Grande Poste. Cash can be
South of the Casbah is the French-built Ville Casbah). The INCT maps may also be avail- SOS Santé (x115) changed at many banks, hotels and, at the
Nouvelle, the ‘lower’ town. This is the com- able, or can be ordered, in some bookshops. SOS Sécurité (x112) best rate, on the street at place Port Saïd.
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Post means no shorts or short sleeves. Women the port. One of the most popular of the
The Grande Poste (p97; x021 726072) is on place ROCKING THE CASBAH will need to wear a headscarf. inner city mosques, entry to non-Muslims
Grande Poste, a Moorish monolith right at In the 1937 cult French film Pépé le Moko, is periodically banned.
the centre of town; it sells stamps and phone Jean Gabin plays a French gangster who The Casbah & Around
cards. There are several branches in the city, is safe from the police as long as he stays THE CASBAH DJEMAA EL-KEBIR
including one at 119 rue Didouche Mourad in the Casbah. The days when the police The Casbah of Algiers is a unique urban A few steps away, the Djemaa el-Kebir (Grand
near the Sacré Coeur. feared to enter the steep, narrow alleys are environment, a fact recognised by Unesco Mosque; rue el-Mourabitine) continues a tradition
long gone, though not forgotten, and the when it inscribed the Casbah on the World that goes back to the early history of Al-
Telephone Casbah still poses difficulties for travellers; Heritage list and described it as ‘one of the giers. On a rise above the inner port, early
You don’t have to walk far in the centre to even some of the most experienced have finest coastal sites on the Mediterranean’. Berber and Phoenician inhabitants built
find a taxiphone (an inexpensive metered had bags or cameras snatched there. Pov- The part of the city that sits on the steep hill places of prayer here, which the Romans
phone service), by far the easiest and cheap- erty-fuelled crime is not exclusive to the between the citadel and the seafront, the turned into a temple; later it was converted
est way to make local and international calls. Casbah, but if foreign governments advise Casbah was mostly built between the 16th into a Christian basilica. One apse of the ba-
Post offices sell prepaid cards for the many against travelling anywhere in the city, it and 18th centuries. It is a tight-knit warren silica faced east and was hung with carpets
orange call boxes scattered across the city. is here. With care, and following our route of alleys where whitewashed houses lean so and icons. This was later torn down and re-
And if you have an unlocked mobile phone, (p97), you will find more frequented areas close they cut out the sharp sun for most placed, in the 11th century, by the mosque,
it might be worth buying a SIM card, which where it is safer to visit, particularly in of the day. Difficult to police and therefore which has since been much altered and
usually comes with credit. the lower Casbah. All areas of the Casbah a home to lawlessness for much of its his- enlarged. Inside the five doors the prayer
should be avoided after dark unless you tory, the Casbah has changed dramatically hall is supported by rows of columns, 72
Tourist Information know where you are going or are walking over the past few decades. With problems in all, and contains a cedarwood minbar
The Office Nationale de Tourisme (x021 712981; with an Algerian known to you. of sanitation and water shortages, many of which carries an inscription stating that
www.ont.dz; 2 rue Smail Kerrar; h8am-4.30pm Sat-Wed) the old Casbah families who were able to, the mihrab, the niche indicating the direc-
was undergoing a face-lift at the time of moved out to more modern accommodation of Mecca, was constructed in 490AH
research, but should have a shiny new of- Casbah being the most obvious example. tion elsewhere in the city. The Casbah has (AD 1097). This supports the idea that the
fice just off blvd Ernesto Guevara and some The greatest risk is of petty theft and, as suffered: since independence as many as mosque was built by Youssef ben Tachfine,
information on travelling in the country. with big cities throughout the world, you a thousand houses have been lost. Not all the Almoravid ruler of Tlemcen at a time
will greatly reduce the risk of being a tar- were of architectural beauty, yet part of the when the Mediterranean was transformed
Travel Agencies get if you take care of your valuables and wonder of the place is in the sum of its by the First Crusade. The minaret, 15m
L’Île de l’Occident (x021 300134; www.iledel ensure that you are not alone in the busier, parts. But it is not too late and it seems high, carries an inscription urging us to
occident.com; Lot H, 39 rue El-Achour) The leaders in and the quietest areas. that things may be changing. The state does contemplate its beauty and the magnificent
cultural and adventure tourism, as well as a general travel Foreigners are also targeted by the city’s provide funds, and there are various organi- appearance of its crowns.
agency. Highly recommended. thieves, whose scams may include an out- sations devoted to helping save the Casbah. The mosque’s location made it central to
Mili Voyage Algérie (x021 633643; 16 rue Didouche ward show of friendship leading to an invi- A great deal of restoration work is ongoing Algiers’ court life – this was where the bey
Mourad) tation to a meal, during which a theft may and several significant houses have already came for Friday prayers, in procession from
ONAT (x021 742985; www.onat-dz.com; 2 rue occur. The majority of theft, however, is been restored. his palace by the port or from the citadel.
Didouche Mourad) The state-owned agency has several opportunistic: if you leave a camera sitting Among the later additions to the structure
branches in the city, but this is the largest and most central on a table or a bag hanging over the back of DJEMAA EL-DJEDID were a small garden and, after the British
for local and international travel. a chair, it may not be there for long. Colonial French town planners cleared bombardment in 1816, an installation for
Touring Voyages Algérie (x021 739516; www.tour many Ottoman buildings when they rede- four cannons. Just over a hundred years
ingvoyagesalgerie.dz; 21 rue Abane Ramdane) One of three SIGHTS signed the Algiers waterfront and laid out later, in a ceremony held here in March
branches in the capital for this nationwide agency. Algiers, like many other places in the coun- what is now the place des Martyrs, but they 1919, the French government officially rec-
try, is only just beginning to recognise its left the Djemaa el-Djedid (place des Martyrs). Con- ognised the sacrifice of the indigènes (na-
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES tourism potential. As a result, some of the trary to its name, the New Mosque, some- tive North Africans) who died in WWI by
Algiers is a big and busy city that has seen city’s most popular sights are often closed times also called the Pêcherie Mosque, was awarding the mufti Ben Nacer the Legion
more than its fair share of violence over the and in the process of being renovated. The built in 1660 on the site of an earlier Quranic of Honour in their name.
years, as plaques around the centre com- municipal authorities made efforts to speed school and paid for by public subscription.
memorate. At times tension bubbles up and things up as Algiers celebrates being Arab The mosque is unusual for Algiers, built in DJEMAA ALI BITCHINE
there is a visible increase in the number of Cultural Capital in 2007, but many sites a recognisably Turkish style, with a series In the rough days of Algerian piracy, when
police in the street and roadblocks on the remain closed. of domes and vaults, although the minaret a man might be snatched off a ship in the
main arteries. At the end of 2006 bombs Entry into all mosques is officially closed is Andalusian in style. It is also unusual for high sea and given a choice of slavery or
went off on the outskirts of the city. Most of to non-Muslims, but in practice it is possi- being designed as a cross: local legend has conversion, there were many so-called ren-
this violence is targeted at police, but a bus ble to visit between the morning and noon it that the architect was a Christian, sup- egades, people around the Mediterranean
carrying foreigners was also attacked. prayers (roughly between 9am and noon) if posedly executed for his trickery. It has two who changed religion. Ali Bitchine was one.
Some parts of the city are more difficult you obtain permission from the mosque’s entrances, one on the place and another on A sailor from Venice, his original name may
for foreigners to visit than others, the upper imam and are dressed appropriately, which the steps of the ramparts, leading down to have been Piccinino. Whoever he had been
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in Italy, in Algiers he was a sailor who rose America guaranteeing their ships safe pas- huge pots used for storing grain, and sen- several large waterfront houses, joined up to
to become a grand admiral of the fleet. sage in Algiers’ waters. Before that, around douk, large carved wooden chests for stor- form a single compound and now home to
In 1622 he built the Djemma Ali Bitchine (rue 1791, he began his palace on the edge of the age of clothes and linen. The upper floor, the Centre des Arts et de la Culture. Palace
Soualah). The plan is unusual, the domed de- Casbah, but away from the waterside, which which still has decoration from the 1860s, 18, the main building, was begun in 1750
sign clearly influenced by Italian or Byzan- was vulnerable and damp in winter. When has four rooms off a central court, in which and completed around 1798 by the Dey
tine churches. Like several other mosques, Algiers fell to the French the house was are shown leatherwork, the highly skilled Mustapha Pacha, who used it as one of his
this one was used as a church during the turned into the governor’s winter residence. craft of embroidery on velvet (much prized residences. The French military occupied
French occupation, when it was known as Its façade was remodelled, and unlike most here), jewellery and copperware. There is it for a while, after which it served as the
Notre Dame des Victoires. The minaret large houses here the Dar Hassan Pacha was also a mock-up of a traditional room such American consulate, a school and a library
was destroyed towards the end of the 19th given a European-style front, with rows of a mansion would have had. before becoming the most successful resto-
century. The building was reclaimed as a large windows and balconies, and a grander ration project in the city. The buildings are
mosque in 1962 and at the time of writing entrance. During the occupation it played CITADEL used as exhibition space for some excellent
was being restored. host to the great and good: the Emperor Na- The city’s stronghold, the citadel dominates shows, but much of the pleasure and interest
poleon and Empress Eugénie stayed during the Casbah and the port and was, from the is in seeing inside a grand, Ottoman-period
DJEMAA KETCHOUA their 1860 tour. The house has been under- 16th century, the guarantor of peace and a mansion. The rooms are rarely massive, oc-
Of all the central Algiers mosques the going a major renovation since 2005 and is safe haven in times of war. Although there casionally elaborately decorated with tiles
Djemaa Ketchoua has had the most turbu- closed to the public, but photographs suggest was a Berber stronghold here from early and painted ceilings, but there is a sense of
lent history. Its exact date of construction that some of the early decoration has sur- times, the present massive structure was grandeur about the compound and it is still
is not known, but it is estimated as being vived, including wall tiles, ornate plasterwork begun in 1516 by Aroudj, the brother of possible to get a sense of the good life that
some time at the beginning of the 17th and carved and painted wood ceilings. Kheireddin Barbarossa. With its walls lined might once have been lived in this place,
century and certainly before the Djemaa with batteries of canon, 188m above sea helped for once by descriptions in English
el-Djedid. Its name translates as place or DAR AZIZA BENT EL-BEY level, it dominated the port, the lower town and French.
plateau of goats, a reminder of the time Aziza may have been a bent (daughter) of and the surrounding countryside: canons
when this space – between the port and cit- the bey of Constantine, who built the sump- were placed facing inland as well as out to NOTRE DAME D’AFRIQUE
adel – was open ground. It was remodelled tuous Dar Aziza for her. In contrast to Dar sea, for the ruler of Algiers was never free The Byzantine-inspired Notre Dame d’Afrique
in 1794 by Hassan Pasha, when he built Hassan Pacha, immediately opposite, its of threats from Berber and Bedouin tribes. (h11am-12.30pm & 3-5.30pm), known locally as
his palace next door (below). The work is whitewashed façade has smaller windows – The citadel was little more than military Madame Afrique, sits above the bustle of the
commemorated by a long inscription that a less impressive face to the world. Inside, barracks until 1816, when the British bom- city, seemingly impervious to the fact that
begins: ‘What a beautiful mosque!’ Today it however, this was one of the most gorgeous bardment of Algiers persuaded the ruler, the people who created it and filled its pews
seems more unusual than beautiful, with its of Algiers’ grand houses, which was built Dey Ali, to move up from his palace by the have long gone. The idea for the church
high steps, three-tierd minarets and part- beside – and perhaps at one time part of – port. It took 76 mules to move his gold and is said to have come from two women of
tiled walls. the Jenina, the old palace of the deys, since silver up with him. It was here, in 1830, that Lyon, who missed the shrine that sits above
A plaque to the left of the great doors demolished. Dar Aziza is currently the of- Dey Hussein slapped the French consul and their native city and who placed a statue
notes that on 5 July 1830 a cross was placed fice of the National Archaeology Agency gave France a pretext for invasion. of the virgin in the hollow of an olive tree
on top of the mosque, beginning more than and is closed to visitors, although there are The citadel has been closed for some on the north of the city. The basilica was
130 years of French occupation. During this occasional exhibitions. years, while renovation works continue on finally consecrated in 1872 by Bishop Lav-
time it served as the city’s cathedral and one the palace, the harem, barracks and other igerie, founder of the White Fathers. Four
of the centrepieces of the French-held city: MUSEUM OF POPULAR ARTS & buildings in the complex, all of them hav- years later, the statue was crowned ‘queen
French artists and sculptors decorated it, TRADITIONS ing suffered during years of occupation of Africa’ with the approval of the Pope in
Emperor Napoleon III took Mass here in This museum (x021 713414; www.musee-mnatp and, after independence, of local squatters. Rome. The date of that event, 30 April, has
1860 and the composer Saint-Saëns played .art.dz; 9 rue Mohamed Akli Malek, Dar Khedaoudj el-Amia; So for now, visitors have to make do with become the statue’s feast day. Sitting 120m
the organ here in 1873. The building was adult/student DA20/10; h10am-noon & 1-4.30pm Sun- a view from the imposing gate, a glimpse above sea level on the plateau of Bouzaréah,
reconsecrated as a mosque on 5 July 1962, Thu, 1-4.30pm Sat), is the most accessible of into the Mosque of the Invitées (another the basilica is, above all, a monument to
132 years to the day after it was converted the buildings one can visit in the Casbah. Ottoman-period structure just beside the departed French piety; its walls are cov-
to a church and just two days after General The museum is housed in a fine example gate), and some spectacular views over the ered in small memorial plaques, placed by
de Gaulle recognised independent Algeria. of an Ottoman-period town house, the Dar city and out to sea. people in need of the Virgin’s help. Mass is
Khedaoudj el-Amia, which follows the clas- said daily in French (6pm) and on Friday
DAR HASSAN PACHA sic town house plan, with an entrance lead- PALAIS DES RAÏS BASTION 23 in English (10am). In November 2006 the
The building beside the Ketchoua Mosque ing to an inner hall and a staircase up to the So many of Algiers’ historic buildings are EU, French government and city of Algiers
was once the city’s grandest mansion and principal rooms. The museum contains a either derelict, undergoing renovation or agreed to share the cost of restoring the
carries the name of its original owner, fascinating collection of traditional Alge- newly restored but closed to visitors, that building.
Dar Hassan Pacha. Hassan was the ruler rian arts and crafts. it comes as a relief to find the Palais des Raïs
or dey of Algiers, a man with a sense of The ground floor corridor of fluted (x021 739570; www.palaisdesrais-bastion23.dz; adult/ Ville Nouvelle
purpose – in 1795 he concluded a peace marble columns leads to rooms showing child DA20/10; h10am-noon & 1-4.30pm Sun-Thu, 1- The Ville Nouvelle (New Town) is not
treaty with the fledgling United States of traditional Berber crafts, including ikoufan, 4.30pm Sat) open. The palace is in fact a row of new and nor is it completely French. Early
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on, the Ottoman-backed rulers of Algiers was planned at the time of our visit, but was sky; they represent the coming together of JARDIN D’ESSAI
and their powerful courtiers were building not yet open. agriculture, culture and industry to make Another grand civic project planted by
themselves summer houses and pleasure independent Algeria great. The nearby the French, the Jardin d’Essai (El-Hamma; www
pavilions up on the heights of the broad NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITIES Bois des Arcades offers shade and some .jardindessai.com) dates to the first years of their
crescent of hill that backs the bay of Algiers. The richness of Algeria’s heritage is brought great views. occupation. In the early 1830s, as soon as
Although the entire hillside and much be- home in the understated but well chosen The Musée National du Moudjahid (x021 the French were in control of Algiers, land
yond has now been developed to accommo- collection on display at the National Museum 743414; Riadh el-Feth, Martyrs’ Memorial; adult/child was set aside for a model farm and a garden
date a growing population, some of the old of Antiquities (x021 746686; www.musee-antiquites DA20/15; h9am-5pm Oct-Feb, 9am-7pm Mar-Sep) sits in which they could try out various plants.
villas remain, a few of them converted into .art.dz; adult/child DA20/10; h9am-noon & 1-4.30pm beneath the memorial, its mission to col- The idea was to test what would grow best
museums and other public spaces. Sun-Thu, 1-4.30pm Sat), a short walk from the lect, preserve and display objects and mem- here, given the soil and climate, in the hope
Bardo Museum. The collection of antiqui- ories of the struggle against colonialism. It of improving crop yields and greening the
BARDO MUSEUM ties is drawn from sites around the city and starts with the story of the French invasion landscape. The model farm disappeared, but
The Bardo Museum of Prehistory & Ethnography throughout Algeria. Among the early works of 1830, but focuses on the glorious strug- the Jardin d’Essai flourished and by the end
(x021 747641; www.musee-bardo.art.dz; 3 rue Franklin are fine ivory carvings and large, totemic gle from the uprising in Sétif, Constantine of the 19th century was one of the world’s
Roosevelt; adult/child DA20/10; h9am-noon & 1-4.30pm Libyan-period warriors on horseback. There and Guelma in 1944 to Independence Day great natural hothouses. It has continued
Sun-Thu, 1-4.30pm Sat) was built at the end of the is sculpture from Cherchell and mosaics in July 1962. Although information is in to develop and is currently undergoing im-
18th century as the country residence of a from Tipaza, a room of bronzes including Arabic, the meaning of the exhibits is easy provements. A place of outstanding beauty,
Tunisian prince exiled in Algiers. Enlarged a wonderful fragment of a horse’s leg and to understand, from Abdelkader’s pistols when it reopens it will once again be some-
by a Frenchman during the colonial period, hoof, and an extraordinary 3rd-century fig- to reports of executions of ‘terrorists’. The where to escape from the overwhelming
it has been a museum since 1930, display- ure of a chubby child holding an eagle to its museum’s lower floor is a domed sanctu- whiteness of the city, among the avenues
ing the early history and later ethnology chest. There is also a collection of Islamic ary, a natural shrine of low light and no of palms, the stands of exotic trees and the
of the region. This includes some fabulous art from across the Maghreb. The museum noise, its walls inscribed with verses from rows of plants.
fossils, a collection of Neolithic pottery sits at the top of the Parc de la Liberté, a the Quran.
and stones, and particularly impressive classic piece of French urban planning at ACTIVITIES
rock carvings and paintings of horses and the top of rue Didouche Mourad. MUSÉE DES BEAUX ARTS Golf
chariots brought from deep in the Sahara At the edge of the Jardin d’Essai and a short As everywhere else in the world, golf is be-
in the Tassili N’Ajjer region. Better still is MAKAM ECHAHID & walk from the Martyrs’ Memorial, the Musée coming increasingly popular among a cer-
the collection of urban artefacts in the eth- MUSÉE NATIONAL DU MOUDJAHID des Beaux Arts (x021 664916; placette Dar es-Salaam, tain section of Algerians. If you can’t resist
nography section. See the elegant copper One of the most recognisable landmarks El-Hamma; adult/child DA20/10; h9am-noon Sun-Thu, the urge to play, Le Golf Club de Dely Brahim
tea pot, the carved and painted wooden in the city, the Makam Echahid (Martyr’s Me- 1-5pm Sat) houses the best collection of art (x021 375362) has an 18-hole course.
furniture and the grand rooms in which morial; Riadh el-Feth) celebrates the sacrifice in the country. Opened in 1930 and with
these objects are displayed. Stroll out into of the unknown martyr who fell for his some 8000 items on the walls and in store, Swimming
the upper courtyard with its cooling central country. The monument, constructed by it traces the progress of European and par- Many Algerians are happy to jump into the
pool and the world in which these objects the Canadians in the early 1980s, is made ticularly French art from the 16th century, sea near the port, but the water is far from
were created suddenly seems much more up of three massive concrete palm fronds starting with Barnaba di Modena, passing clean and you need to drive a long way out of
familiar. The gardens are a delight. A café that come together and soar 92m into the through the neoclassicists such as David the city to find clean water. Swimming pools
and Delacroix, Orientalists including Fro- can be just as difficult to find. The Complexe
mentin and a Renoir painted during the Nautique (x021 924787) has one indoor and
SHANGHAI BLUE Zahia Hafs artist’s visit in 1882. There is also a sizeable two open-air Olympic-sized pools, although
Traditionally the trousers and jackets worn by the fishermen were made of thick blue cotton collection of work by Algerian artists and you may need to join (and therefore bring
called ‘le bleu de Shanghai’ (Shanghai blue). If you walk around Algiers’ charming fishing port, by artists from elsewhere, donated when a passport) to get into the water. Easier,
near the place des Martyrs, especially at night during Ramadan, you will still see ‘the blue men’ Algeria won independence. though more expensive, is the pool of the
sitting at small terraces, sipping strong coffee or mint tea, eating pastries and playing dominos. Hôtel el-Djazaïr (x021 230933; www.hoteleldjazair
Others hang around smoking their cigarettes with delight on the parapet and the steps leading GRANDE POSTE .dz; 24 av Souidani Boujmaa; s/d DA2300/4000).
to the water. This outfit has passed through time with whole generations of men who work the A post office might not be high on every-
seas wearing the distinctive garments. In the past they also wore white sandals and it was ap- one’s list of things to see, but Grande Poste WALKING TOUR
propriate for unmarried men to have a mint leaf stuck behind their ear allowing girls to know (x021 726072; place Grande Poste), completed in The Casbah has a reputation as a difficult
they were single. 1908 after eight years of construction, is a place for foreigners to walk and not entirely
If you walk around the Casbah you will also see some elderly men, mainly retired fishermen, classic piece of French-inspired hispano- without reason: even experienced travellers
wearing this blue costume. However, little by little, the younger generations are dropping this Moorish architecture and is worth a brief have been mugged here recently. This walk
outfit and with it one part of typical Algiers’ scenery. visit, even if you don’t need stamps or a is designed to give a take of the safer, lower
Strangely, across the Mediterranean in Marseille the distinctive two piece outfit is not called phone card. One of the world’s most elabo- Casbah, taking in many of the city’s most
‘Shanghai blue’ but ‘China blue’, and back across the seas in Tamanrasset, in the south of Algeria, rate post boxes is near the entrance, while remarkable sights. However, avoid taking
it is called ‘Marseille blue’. the façade carries the names of Algeria’s this tour at night (for more information see
principal towns and cities. the boxed text, p92).
ALGIERS & AROUND 98 A L G I E R S • • W a l k i n g T o u r lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com A L G I E R S • • T o u r s 99
ALGIERS & AROUND

ALGIERS WALKING TOUR 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
space in front of the restored but closed SLEEPING
1
Dar es-Souf (6). Algiers has a large number of hotels, but a
Turn left at the end of the street, onto rue shortage of good beds. Many of the places
de l’Indépendence. This street is lined with listed here are small, although ‘boutique
some of the largest houses in the Casbah. hotel’ is a concept that has not yet arrived.
Bl
vd
2 No 1, Dar Zaid Aissa (7), has a massive white The big hotels, with one notable exception,
Am
ar
façade and the sign monument classé. At are concrete blocks, some from the tourism
Av 1er
d 3
da
a
Ha
Ra
No 7 you can just make out the sign for boom of the 1960s and 70s. The Minister of
ch
k
za 5
id
R B ow a
ra
Novem
de 4
Ab the Tribunal de 1er Instance, one of the old Tourism has vowed to improve the situation
d
vd
l-O u e
Bl town courts. At a turn in the street, on the by encouraging investment, and there are
bre
s
6 right, Dar Mustapha Pacha (8) was built, like rumours of Saudis and others trying to buy
R Bab e
10
e
many of these houses, at the end of the the city’s prominent hotels, but none of this
nc
7
Fra
Casbah 11 18th century. It was given to a religious has brought the necessary improvements.
le
8
at o
9 order. Under the French it was turned into Hotels in Algiers tend to be more expen-
An
v
d
Bl
R Abderahmane
12 a library and still bears an engraved, Bibli- sive than elsewhere in Algeria (with the pos-
Blvd de la Victoire
13 14
othèque Nationale, sign. More impressive sible exception of Oran). While you can still
Pl des is the carved cedarwood canopy above the find a budget room for under DA1000, many
Martyrs
main entrance. Just before the end of the will cost up to DA1500, while midrange may
street on the right is No 2, the Hammam cost as much as DA3500 a double.
a in
Sidna (9), a classic hammam of 16th-century

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recently as the poster of Zidane and his Real s/d DA400/600) Overlooking the Ketchoua
Che
MEDITERRANEAN Madrid colleagues, which still hangs on the Mosque and a busy street, the Marhaba has
Blvd
0 200 m
R Amar el-Kamar
SEA
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wall). There are plans for it to reopen in the grubby rooms with basins and worn beds,
near future. but no in-house showers. Basic.
You are now back on rue Hadj Omar. Grand Hôtel Tipaza (x021 736515; 4 rue Rachid
On your left are another pair of classic Al- Kessentini; s/d B&B DA800/1000) This long-stand-
gerian houses: at No 17, a marble entrance ing backpackers favourite is a one-star dive
returned to it for some days in 1830, after and large wooden door announce the Dar above the noisy square, cafés and shops,
WALK FACTS the city had fallen to the French. el-Cadi (10), while across the road at No 10, right in the centre and a short walk from
Start Palais des Raïs The Bab el-Oued (3), the River Gate, was a large doorway supported by four pillars train and shared taxi connections. It has
Finish place Port Said the northern entrance to Algiers, but was is the entrance to Dar Ahmed Bey (11), now communal showers.
Distance 3km not wide enough for carts heading to the the headquarters of the Algerian National Hôtel Terminus (x021 737817; 2 rue Rachid Kes-
Duration Four to five hours port jetty and was dismantled in 1846. One Theatre. sentini; s/d B&B from DA900/1500) A noisy former
of the pedestrian arches of the gate has Turning right onto rue Hadj Omar, the colonial hotel overlooking place Port Said
survived near Dar el-Hamra. Just beyond road comes into an open space. Dar Has- and the sea, it has some rooms (at midrange
Start at the Palais des Raïs (1; p95). From it, past the covered market, the Djemaa Ali san Pacha (12; p94), once the residence of prices) with air-con. Not ideal for women
its windows (or the road nearby if you don’t Bitchine (4; p93) is being restored, but its the French Governor of Algeria (under travelling alone.
want to enter), take a look at the admiralty, outside fountain and tile work can be ad- restoration) and Djemaa Ketchoua (13; p94) Hôtel Arago (x021 739495; rue Haffaf Nafaa; s/d
the bit of land that closes Algiers’ inner mired. Take the passage that leads between are both on the right. On your left is the DA975/1545) A survivor from the days when
port, with its lighthouse built by Barbarossa. the mosque and market, the pedestrian rue whitewashed façade of Dar Aziza (14; p94), French colonial officials and their families
This was where the legendary figures of the Prof Mohamed Boualah. As you climb the the headquarters of the Archaeological flocked to the city, the Arago has dropped
city’s history plied their trade and now is steps the Casbah rises above you. Take the Agency, and beyond it lies the place des the Grand from its name and offers simple,
a military zone. Cross blvd Amara Rachid first left, rue Hadj Omar. No 2, the École Martyrs, convenient for transport, close to clean rooms, without air-con, in a more sa-
and the small place with a fountain of rear- Ahmed Hamouche, is a large Ottoman the restaurants of the Pêcherie (p100) and lubrious part of town than the Port Said area,
ing horses. Beyond it, turn left onto av 1 house currently undergoing some restora- a short walk from the cafés of place Port but still near the port and train station.
Novembre and then take your first right, tion work. Said. Grand Hôtel des Étrangers (x021 743359; 1 rue
crossing rue Bouras. Just before you reach The first right turning off rue Hadj Omar Ali Boumendjel; s/d/tr B&B DA1200/1300/1400) A wel-
rue Bab el-Oued, you pass (on your left) is rue Mohamed Akli Malek. Visit the TOURS coming hotel in the cheap-hotel area, it’s a
Dar el-Hamra (2; closed to visitors). The last Museum of Popular Arts & Traditions (5; p94) The travel agencies listed in the Information little less noisy than the others.
dey of Algiers, Hussein, built this fine man- at No 9, in the Dar Khedaoudj el-Amia. section (p92) all offer tours of the city and
sion in 1800, before he reached power. It Continue up the hill from the museum, the surrounding sights. Île de l’Occident Midrange
was rented by the British Consul Robert then take the first left (rue Mohamed et is particularly recommended for cultural Central Touring Hôtel (x021 737644; 9 rue Abane
St-John in the 1820s, although Dey Hussein Ahmed Mecheri), which leads to an open tours. Ramdane; s/d DA1638/1930; a) On a busy street
ALGIERS & AROUND 100 A L G I E R S • • E a t i n g Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com A L G I E R S • • E a t i n g 101
ALGIERS & AROUND

in the centre of town, this is another old (everyone else). A concrete box perched on late croissant) for breakfast, sugar and sa- dish your wife or mother cooks best – but
favourite and a cut above most of the city’s a concete plinth, it is due for a much needed voury crepes for lunch, and good coffee all they come here in numbers. No alcohol is
budget places. Air-con rooms available. overhaul. Views of the city are fabulous as day to a young crowd, most of whom come available.
Hôtel Regina (x021 740035; 27 blvd ben Boulaïd; are the gardens. from the nearby university.
s/d B&B DA3000/3200; a) The welcome could be Hôtel el-Djazaïr (x 021 230933; www.hotel Le Magelan (x021 710130; 8 Rampe de la Pêch- Top End
warmer, but rooms in this imposing sea- eldjazair.dz; 24 av Souidani Boujmaa; s/d 18,000/22,000; erie; DA200) There’s a line of fish restaurants oBrasserie des Facultés (x 021 6440531 rue
front hotel, a short walk from the Grande pas) Minor shortcomings with serv- along the Rampe de la Pêcherie, the pas- Didouche Mourad; meals DA1000-1500) The food side
Poste, are well maintained and a good size, ice and upkeep of the rooms are far out- sage that leads from beside Djemaa el- of this popular and often smoky bar fills
if a little noisy. weighed by the charm of the place, which Djedid to the port (or used to until the up early and for good reason. It isn’t the
Hôtel Samir (x021 630251; www.hotelsamir.com; has been the city’s address of choice for lower gate was blocked during the 1990s). cheapest place in town, but it is consistently
74 rue Didouche Mourad; s/d/tr B&B DA3100/3600/4600; over a century. Famous guests include Rud- All have the same sort of product and good, with a well-priced plat du jour. Tables
a) One of the best midrange hotels in the yard Kipling and André Gide. The Allied prices: choose a fish from the display and alongside the window are referred to as front
centre, a very popular place in a 19th cen- Force Headquarters was based in Room 141 say whether you want it grilled or fried. de mer, overlooking not the beach but the
tury building on a busy shopping street. while planning the invasion of Sicily, and Le Magelan (formerly the Sirène de Mer) passage along busy rue Didouche Mourad
Reservation recommended. Churchill and Eisenhower met here in June also does a fine fish soup, but no alcohol and the entrance to the university.
Hôtel Safir (x021 735040; 2 rue Asseleh Hocine; 1943. They might tut at the modern exten- is available. Le Dauphin (x021 716557; rue d’Angkor; mains
s/d B&B DA4200/4800; a) You get more than a sions but would still enjoy the gardens and Tontonville Café (x 021 748661; 7 place Port DA1000-1500, whole fish per kilogram DA1500-2700)
bed to sleep in at the Safir, a hotel popular pool, the elegance and character. Said; mains DA200-300) The entrance is on the Don’t be fooled by the faux Greek exterior
with out-of-town officials with business at Hilton Algiers Hôtel (x021 219696; www.hilton side street by the theatre. Inside this high- or the Muzak inside, this is one of the city’s
the local government offices. Under French .com; Pins Maritime; s/d from 27,000/31,000; pas) ceilinged canteen, popular at lunchtime, best, where the freshest fish and the best wine
occupation this was the Aletti, one of the A huge curve of concrete out of town near take a tray and choose from a range of is enjoyed by well-heeled locals and oil work-
city’s chic addresses. The building is grand, the Exhibition Centre and therefore usually dishes – perhaps a tagine, a lamb stew, or ers. Alcohol is served and it has a terrace.
the view over the harbour perfect and some full of delegations (and the British embassy a couscous – and have drinks served. Af- Dar Lahlou (x021 210807; [email protected];
of the rooms still vast and decorated with and British council, which has permanent terwards, you can go out front and have a Pins Maritimes; dinner DA1000-2000) A relative new-
character, but while renovation contin- residence here). The Hilton is extremely se- coffee on the terrace. comer, Dar Lahlou is doing the seemingly
ues, much of the furnishings and fittings cure, very comfortable and has just about Restaurant Yulmaz (x021 7333301; 8 rue Pichon; impossible: serving upmarket couscous.
are tired and the plumbing unreliable. Ex- everything you would expect at this price. mains DA300-500) This small, bright place just Yet, it works. But then this isn’t just any
pect to pay more for renovated or seafront off place Audin is a little more expensive old couscous. The family is from the Kab-
rooms. EATING than others in the alley, but it is a cut above ylie where they and women in surrounding
There is no shortage of places to pick up a the rest with good grills and tagines, al- villages still make couscous by hand, for
Top End quick bite. There are also many restaurants in though there’s no alcohol. which they won the gold medal for the best
o Hôtel Albert 1 ( x 021 736506/737441; the centre, often serving French-influenced couscous in the Mediterranean in 2005, a
[email protected]; 5 av Pasteur; s/d B&B DA 4100/4700; food. Midrange source of national pride. If wheat couscous
a) In another city, or in Algiers in another L’Arc en Ciel (x021 738360; 3 rue Col Haouas; mains is hard to digest, try the barley, corn or rice
time, the Albert 1 would have taken more Budget DA500-800) This place is particularly busy at couscous, though Dar Lahlou also serves
advantage of its fabulous wedding-cake Milk Bar (40 rue Larbi ben M’Hidi; snacks DA50-100) A lunchtime, when the small room fills with tagines and roasts in a place that the owners
building and central location, right on one reliable all-day food stop on place Emir people from the town hall and other nearby have made look like home.
of the main squares and with views out to Abdelkader, it’s good for a coffee and offices, who look as though they have been Auberge du Moulin (x021 361073; 24 rue Abane
sea. As it is, rooms are worn, water is er- croissant, or a slice of pizza at lunch, and coming here for years. Service is fast, food Ramdane, Cheraga; mains DA1000-2000) Consist-
ratic and street noise can be bad, even late has pavement seating. is unfussy and fish, couscous and paella are ently rated the best meal in town, the old
at night, but this is still one of the most Big Blue (1 rue Didouche Mourad; DA60) Omelettes, the specialities. windmill, set in a beautiful garden, serves
interesting places to stay in town. burgers and fries are served from this stall, La Vague Bleu (rue d’Angkor; mains DA500-1000) fine Franco-Algerian food with great style.
Dar Diaf (x021 361010; Chemin de la Redoute, just opposite the gates of the university. Ex- The owner is a fisherman who sells what- There’s dining outside when the weather
Cheraga; s/d DA5300/7200; pa) The better of tremely popular at lunch and dinner. ever he has caught on his boat in this dark allows.
the two hotels of this name (though not Restaurant le Faubourg (rue Pichon; mains DA150- little restaurant under the city rampart,
nearly so convenient), Dar Diaf is a long 250) Down a flight of steps off place Audin, across the road from the port. There’s not Self-Catering
drive out of the centre. And while it’s rated this restaurant is a simple place that serves a lot of ambience and no alcohol, but the There are several large food markets around
four star it’s still a long way from being a straightforward meals of soup and roast fish couldn’t be fresher and the prices are the centre, excellent for stocking up on fresh
luxury hotel. That said, it does offer clean chicken on plastic tables, either in the main reasonable for the quality. food. The most convenient is on rue Amar
and comfortable rooms and has a good room (with TV) or salle familiale (family La Maison de Couscous (rue Claude Debussy; mains el-Kama, off place Port Said. There is a larger,
restaurant. room). No alcohol is available. DA600-800) Up by the concrete Sacré Coeur covered market off rue Didouche Mourad,
Hôtel el-Aurassi (x021 748252; 2 blvd Frantz Fanon; Le Brussels (x021 633754; 2 rue Didouche Mourad; Cathedral, high up rue Didouche Mourad, near the junction of rue Ahmed Zabana and
s/d from DA10,000/11,000) There’s no missing the breakfast & light lunch DA150-300) A cool café that this local no-frills place serves what its rue Boukhlfa Khalifa. There are also plenty of
Aurassi, one of the city’s landmarks that runs all day on a Belgian theme, it serves name says: couscous. Algerians don’t often food shops and bakeries in the centre, not to
people either love (the modernists) or hate hot chocolate and pain au chocolat (choco- go out to eat couscous – it’s the sort of mention the ever-present pizza place.
ALGIERS & AROUND 102 A L G I E R S • • D r i n k i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com A L G I E R S • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 103
ALGIERS & AROUND

Les Puits d’Amour (x021 237356; 93B rue Di- most basic French dishes, but perhaps its to the airport. From the centre, 200m south along the western line to Oran (five to six
douche Mourad) If you need some serious claims to serve authentic Vietnamese food of place Audin, catch the bus headed to hours), from where there is a daily service
French baked goods, look no further than are more convincing. Instead, come late for Tafoura. A taxi from there or the Grande to Tlemcen (2½ hours). Since the closure of
this retro patisserie. the music, especially on nights when there Poste should cost DA250 to DA300. the Algerian–Moroccan border, the inter-
Promy Plus (x021 747770; 39 rue Larbi ben M’hidi) is a live act, when the place gets packed and There are departures to all corners of the national express has been stopped.
This department store has dried foods in the audience begins to move. country, including Annaba (DA700, nine
its basement. hours), Oran (day/night DA540/710, seven GETTING AROUND
Nightclubs hours), Biskra (DA470, eight hours) and To/From the Airport
DRINKING A number of nightclubs go in and out of Ouargla (DA900, 12 hours). To get to Ta- A shuttle bus runs to the airport (DA50)
Considering its image abroad as a hotbed fashion depending on the season, includ- marasset and the deep south you need to from blvd Zirout Youcef, near the Hôtel
of Islamic fundamentalism, there are a sur- ing the VIP, Veranda and Triangle, all near change at Adrar (DA1500, 12 hours). Safir, during the day and early evening.
prising number of places to drink in the the Martyr’s Memorial. These are currently Departures occur at least once an hour,
city. Most of these will be filled with men among the more popular: Car sometimes every 30 minutes. The journey
out to get drunk and are, therefore, not the Pasha (x021 230933; Hotel el-Djazaïr, 24 av Souidani Given the number of road incidents in Al- takes at least 30 minutes, more during rush
sort of place where a foreign girl is going Boujmaa) The nightclub of the Hôtel el-Djazaïr. geria as a result of dangerous driving and hours. A taxi will cost up to DA1000 de-
to have a quiet time. The exceptions are Star Studio (x021 377 7777; Sheraton Club des Pins, also false roadblocks – one of the favour- pending on the time of day/night and your
hotel bars, where access is often restricted Staouelli; pas) A long ride out of town, it’s worth ite techniques of kidnappers – you need to ability to haggle.
to hotel guests. checking if it is running before making the trip. know what you are doing before you rent a
Bar Dey (x 021 230933; Hôtel el-Djazaïr, 24 av car. With some agencies you also need to Car & Motorcycle
Souidani Boujmaa) This is one of the most re- GETTING THERE & AWAY be over 30. However, it is possible to drive Driving in Algiers is a frustrating experi-
laxing places to drink, especially on a warm Air yourself, and several agencies would be de- ence, for much of the day traffic is bumper
day if you can persuade the waiters to serve The newly expanded Houari Boumediène lighted to have your business. As well as to bumper. And when you get where you are
you in the garden. The bar has an elaborate Airport (x021 506000; www.algiersairport.free.fr) is international agencies, the following local going, there is always a shortage of parking
Moorish interior. Drinks are suitably ex- 19km from the centre and has separate do- agencies rent cars, from DA3300 per day spaces. Happily this has created work for
pensive, up to DA550 for an imported beer, mestic and international terminals. for a basic car. space minders (official or otherwise), people
a little less for a half bottle of local wine. For details of international airline offices Love Tour (x021 509262; Houari Boumediène Airport) who will usher you into a space and watch
Also recommended: in Algiers, see p208. Air Algérie (x021 742428; It also has a desk at the ONAT office on 2 rue Didouche your car, for a fee. However, it is not worth
Alger Bar (1 av Pasteur) Also known as Chez Frères Acherar. www.airalgerie.dz; 1 place Maurice Audin) flies to more Mourad. renting a car while staying in the city as there
Taverne du Parc (117 rue Didouche Mourad) than 20 destinations within the country. Rapide Car (x021 509512/506112; www.rapidecar are plenty of taxis and much of the centre is
Fares are reasonable and service, although .com; Houari Boumediène Airport) It also has an agency at easier to walk than drive around, while the
ENTERTAINMENT often a little delayed, is reasonably efficient. the Hôtel el-Aurassi. Casbah is mostly pedestrian-only.
Cinema & Theatre Return fares are usually twice the price of
The risks associated with going out at a one-way ticket, which makes open-jaw Taxi Public Transport
night during the 1990s, the lack of spare tours possible. One way to Tamanrasset, the Long-distance communal taxis, which have Buses serve most parts of the city, leav-
cash and the advent of the DVD all spelled southernmost airport and furthest from Al- six places in three rows and are marked ing from several main points around the
trouble for Algiers’ cinemas. But some are giers, costs from DA14,000. ‘Inter-Wilaya’, leave when they are full, from centre: place des Martyrs, place Grande Poste,
still managing to run decent programmes the Rampe Magenta, which slopes down place Audin, Bab el-Oued and place 1 Mai,
of films that may be in French or Arabic. Boat from near place Port Said to the train sta- south of Agha train station. Destinations are
Also worth checking is the space in front Algiers is an important port with plenty of tion. Taxis leave for destinations across the marked at each stop, although increasingly
of the Hôtel Albert 1, off av Pasteur, where traffic and good sea connections to Spain northern half of the country including Biskra these are in Arabic only. Entry is through the
free outdoor films are often screened. and France. (DA800, six hours), Bou Saada (DA500, four back door, where you pay the conductor.
Cinéma Algeria (rue Didouche Mourad) Algérie Ferries (x021 635388/641864; 6 blvd hours), Oran (DA900, six to seven hours), An underground system has been under
Cinématheque Algérienne (26 rue Larbi ben M’Hidi) Khemisti) Also known as the Entreprise Nationale de Constantine (DA900, six to seven hours) construction for some years – you could be
Théâtre National Algérien (x021 717607; place Ab- Transports Maritimes de Voyageurs (ENTMV), Algérie Fer- and Annaba (DA1100, 10 hours). fooled into thinking there is one already by
delkader Alloula) Stages regular performances of theatre, ries sails from Algiers to Marseille (19 hours) and Alicante the subway entrances near the Grande Poste.
music and dance in its grand 19th-century building. (12 hours). Train Work seems to have stalled, but the first line,
SNCM-Ferryterranee (x021 718115; blvd Zirout The Algerian national rail company, SNTF running near the coast from Bab el-Oued to
Live Music Youcef ) Also sails to Marseille and Alicante. (x021 711510) runs services out of two train Hussein Dey (for the Tarfoura gare routiére),
Algiers has several live music venues, two stations in the capital. Gare Centrale (x021 is due to be completed in 2008.
of the most popular being the Théatre de Bus 647380/81; rue d’Angkor), beside the gare mari-
Verdure and the Salle Ibn Zeydoun, at Riadh The Algiers gare routière (x021 497151/54; av de time, has services along the eastern line to Taxi
el-Feth (x021 670282). Listings are published l’ALN), unlike most in the country, still func- Bejaia, Constantine and Annaba (1st/2nd There are plenty of taxis cruising the streets
in papers such as the daily El-Watan. tions properly, with information desk, café, class DA1330/945, seven to 10 hours). of the centre and although they can be in
Le Racym’s (x021 716883; 8 rue Aouchiche Larbi) shops and departures board. It is several Trains from the Gare de l’Agha (x021 636525; short supply during rush hours, at other
The kitchen managed to spoil even the kilometres from the centre, along the road off rue Hassiba ben Bouali) run four times a day times it is usually possible to hail one in
ALGIERS & AROUND 104 A R O U N D A L G I E R S • • Ti p a z a lonelyplanet.com Book
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D A L G I E R S • • Ti p a z a 105
ALGIERS & AROUND

the street. Taxis should be equipped with chell, the other side of the headland and Seventy kilometres along the coast road, Ti- a mosaic of captives – the centre depicts par-
meters, but especially after dark and when another natural harbour, is its twin, with paza is a delight at any time. ents and their son bound; around the border
taking a taxi from a hotel, expect to haggle. a particularly rich museum. Between these are heads of various Africans. Here too are
Local taxis collectifs (share taxis) run along two towns and the capital, the coast road History finely carved sarcophagi and some exquisite
some of the main streets of the city, their passes some of the better resorts around Most settlements along the Algerian coast 1st- to 3rd-century AD glass.
destination written on a board in the win- Algiers. began as anchorage for early travellers, The site is divided into two, the main
dow or on the roof. Flag one down, if it is perhaps Phoenician, perhaps even earlier, part being to the west of the museum. The
heading in your direction and get out when Getting There & Away as their primitive boats clung to the coast entrance leads almost immediately to an
you like. DA20 per ride. The road between Algiers and Tipaza is during a journey from Carthage or further amphitheatre, which would have been one
If you need to be sure of a service – useful currently being upgraded and, at the time east towards the Pillars of Hercules. There of the main entertainment centres of the
to get around, essential if you are not being of writing, there was a dual carriageway are no records of this early period nor of ancient town. There isn’t much left of the
met on arrival at the airport – call Taxi Yacine until 15km before Tipaza. Buses run regu- the Numidians who lived here in the early surrounding structure, but the oval walls of
(x071 170026) or Taxis Minutes x021 666666). larly during the week between Algiers and centuries BC, just the clues thrown up by the arena still describe the area where, in
Cherchell, stopping at Tipaza (1½ hours). the 5th- or 4th-century BC cemeteries. The the 4th and 5th centuries, gladiator fights
AROUND ALGIERS TIPAZA ‫ﺗﻴﺒﺎزة‬

Albert Camus wrote that Tipaza was inhab-
first mention of Tipaza is by Pliny the Elder,
in the 1st century, by which time it was
under Roman control. It was then that the
and other popular events were held. Just
beyond the amphitheatre the path leads to
to the central point of the town, where the
If you want to get out of the city for some ited by the gods in spring of the sun and town we can visit took shape. two main streets, the paved decumanus and
hours or a day, then look to the west: silvered sea, blue sky and flower-covered Tipaza’s story is shaped by the same cardo maximus, join. Follow the decumanus,
you don’t have to go far to find beautiful ruins. But Tipaza isn’t just beautiful and in- forces and influences as other big towns to the left, and you will come to the other
countryside, evocative ruins and sleepy vil- spiring in spring. Somehow the gods are still in the region; it grew by strengthening its place of entertainment, the theatre. This is
lages alongside the deep blue sea. Tipaza talking if you go in the summer, when the ties across the Mediterranean and reach- also much ruined, but the props that sup-
is the must-see sight, an ancient Roman ruins buzz with vibrating cicadas; in autumn ing a peak of wealth and influence under ported the stage are there, as is the slope that
port impressive enough to be inscribed on ,when the winds blow brine off the sea; even the Severan emperors in Rome, particu- was once covered with seating blocks. North
Unesco’s list of World Heritage sites and a in winter, when the weak sun brings out larly Septimus Severus (AD 193–211), a of here – head straight for the sea – there is
delightful place to wander around. Cher- the honey tones of marble and sandstone. North African by birth. During this period an area developed by Christians. The reli-
much wealth was spent on civic projects, gious complex here includes two basilica,
TIPAZA 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
including an impressive enclosing wall. tombs and baths, all of which can be easily
Like other towns along the coast, Tipaza identified. The grand basilica was the largest
embraced Christianity with enthusiasm in Christian building in North Africa when it
INFORMATION
Post Office.................................1 D3
Museum................................10
New Temple..........................11
D3
C2
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA
the first half of the 3rd century, a time when was finished in the 4th century.
Nymphaeum..........................12 B3 pagan buildings were neglected and Chris- Return back along the shoreline, the
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Theatre..................................13 B3 tian basilicas built. While neighbouring middle of this cove was devoted to large
Amphitheatre............................2 C3 Villa of Frescoes.....................14 B2
Anonymous Temple...................3 C3 Cherchell (p106) and Icosium, the ancient villas and bath complexes, some of which
Baths..........................................4 B2 EATING
Entry to Archaeological Park......5 C3 Creperie Cleopatra.................15 C3
settlement at Algiers, were sacked by rebel still have mosaics on the floors. The house
Forum........................................6 C2 Restaurant Massinissa............16 C3 Berbers in AD 371, Tipaza’s wall – 2200m at the centre, on the cardo maximus, was the
Grand Baths...............................7 D3 Restaurants............................17 C3
Great Christian Basilica...............8 A2
long, defended by 37 towers, held, only to Villa of Frescoes, an unusually large house
Mosque.....................................9 D3 give way the following year to the force of of 1000 sq metres built at the height of Tipa-
the Vandals. There was a brief renaissance za’s prosperity, in the 2nd century AD.
6
under Byzantine rulers, but the end was ir- The civic buildings lie to the east of the
8
14 resistible, a slow seeping away of power and cardo, on a promontory which formed one
people, after which many of its stones were of the arms of the port. Beyond the remains
Ca
carted away to be reused in the building of of the ancient wall lie the forum, a 25m by
rdo
Ma
a new city, El-Djezaïr (Algiers). 50m paved area which originally had por-
xim
ticoes on three sides and the capitol on the

us
4 11 To Port; Gare
Routière
(Bus Station)
Sights fourth. Little remains of this, the town’s
s 3 Tipaza was built on a beautiful site and the most important temple, beyond its steps
ximu
us
Ma 7 10
ruins of this archaeological park (h9am-noon & and podium. Here too are the curie (mu-
n 2
cu ma 2.30-6.30pm) roll down, through pine and other nicipal assembly), where political matters
De 5
13 12
17 trees, to the beach, dominated by 900m were settled, and the courthouse, a basilica
15
Djebel Chenoua to the west. It is best to start built at the end of the 2nd century AD.
To Cherchell;
Matares Beach (500m)
16
To Algiers;
at the museum (x021 478938/477543; www.musee On the east side of Tipaza, beyond the
1 Corne d'Or
(1km)
-tipaza.art.dz; rue du Musée; h9am-noon & 2-5.30pm) museum, the old Punic harbour is still in
outside the park, which has some fine funer- use, protecting the town’s boats. Further
9
ary stele showing warriors on horseback and east, beyond the walls of the ancient town,
ALGIERS & AROUND 106 A R O U N D A L G I E R S • • C h e r c h e l l l o n e lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D A L G I E R S • • B e t w e e n Ti p a z a & A l g e i r s 107
ALGIERS & AROUND

the remains of two more Christian basilica perhaps even the 4th century BC. It rose to Bensalah (x071 427 426) is a local archae- tisanes, herbs and spices á l’ancienne. If the
stand in a cemetery that stretches from the prominence in the 1st century AD thanks to ologist who knows a huge amount about shop is closed feel free to ring the bell – they
sea and the main road. the Numidian King Juba II. His father, Juba the town’s sites and Algeria’s antiquities. live above the shop.
I, resisted the rise of Rome in North Africa Leading off the place des Martyrs, the mu- Further down the street on the right, are
Sleeping & Eating and when his army was defeated by Julius seum (adult/child DA20/10; h9am-noon & 2-5pm Sun- the remains of Caesarea’s first forum, now
Because most people visit Tipaza as a day Caesar, preferred suicide to the humiliation Fri) houses some of the finest sculpture in the enclosed between buildings behind a railing.
trip, accommodation is limited and the of being taken in triumph to Rome. His son, country, much of it from the reign of Juba The site was discovered by chance in 1977,
choice is between budget and top end. Juba II, was taken to Rome, where he was ed- II. Among many highlights are marble busts when a statue was discovered when builders
Auberge de Jeunesse (x024 439752; Route de ucated in the conqueror’s house and after 44 of the royal family, who wear the royal band started digging the foundations for a new
Tipaza; per person DA100) Has a central location BC, by Caesar’s nephew, Octavius Augustus. across their foreheads, and an exceptionally cultural centre. An Algerian-British team
in town. He showed great intelligence and aptitude rare portrait of Juba’s late mother-in-law, excavated the site over two seasons and, as
Corne d’Or (x024 470815; s/d half board DA5050/ and by the end of his studies, wrote a book the famous Cleopatra of Egypt. A colossal well as the forum, revealed a church and re-
7070; pa) Just beyond the town limits on Roman archaeology. He was also a war- statue of a Roman emperor, probably Au- mains of earlier Punic settlement. Down this
in the direction of Algiers, this place is an rior and fought alongside Augustus at the gustus, is wonderfully carved, especially the street on the right, the family-run Restaurant
attractive domed compound with its own Battle of Actium, at which they defeated the breast-plate with figures including a deified Cercle de la Fraternité (x071 544223) serves the
small harbour, but was for sale at the time combined forces of Mark Antony and Cleo- Julius Caesar. The finest of the sculptures, freshest of fish and delicious salads, soups
of writing and barely functioning. patra. Juba married their daughter Cleopatra though, is a statue of a naked Apollo in fin- and desserts in a large, bright room, beneath
Just beyond the western limit of the Selene and returned to North Africa as King est white marble (a copy of a 5th century BC mementoes of members of the Cherchell
archaeological zone is the Complexe Touris- of Mauretania. Caesarea, their capital, flour- Greek original), believed to be by the master football team, who died in the independence
tique de Matarès (x024 461822; pa), a large ished in this period – ‘most splendid Caesa- Phidias. The collection of mosaics is equally struggle between 1948 and 1950.
whitewashed tourist village with a fortress- rea’ it was referred to at the time – and Juba stunning and includes a scene of Odyssesus
like façade above a beautiful beach, and the lived an exceptional life, worshipped as a god and his followers passing the sirens, and a BETWEEN TIPAZA & ALGIERS
dilapidated four-star Hôtel de la Baie (x024 by his own people and honoured as far away vivid portrayal of agricultural scenes. Cher- The 100km of coast between Cherchell
470822; s/d B&B DA1800/3400; p). These devel- as Athens, where a statue was raised in his chell has provided such a rich source of an- and Algiers has some good beaches, all of
opments remain controversial – you don’t honour. But following Juba’s death in 23 BC, tiquities that, in spite of the export of many which can be busy in summer and full of
have to be an archaeologist to recognise the Caesarea’s story follows that of other settle- pieces before and during the colonial period washed-up refuse at any time. If you are
historical value of the site. You can swim off ments along this coast: adopting Christianity (now in museums across Europe), there is going east to Annaba or Bejaia, or west to
the beach here. (it was visited by St Augustine in AD 418) it too much to contain in the original 1908 Oran, you will find better beaches. Thirty-
The pedestrian street that leads from the was overwhelmed soon after by the Vandals, building. A second, larger museum (same one kilometres from Tipaza, heading east
entrance back to the main road is lined with enjoying a brief resurgence under the Byzan- ticket, same opening hours) was opened in towards the capital, the highway turns in-
restaurants. There isn’t much to choose tines and then sinking into obscurity. By the 1979 at the mosaic park (left-hand side of land, while the N11 hugs the coast, pass-
between them – they all do simple meals 10th century it was described as a town of the road as you enter from Tipaza) to dis- ing the resort village of Zeralda. There are
of chicken and lamb and may have some great antiquity with a port and the debris of play mosaics, sculpture and glass from an- two good, popular beaches – Les Sables d’Or
fresh fish. Most have shaded terraces and ancient buildings, much like today. tiquity and the early Islamic period. Marked and Palm-Beach Plage – between here and the
will serve mint tea or fresh juices. Restaurant The main inland road from Tipaza crosses ‘Nouveau Musée’, it stands next to military next resort, Sidi Ferdj. Formerly Sidi Ferruch,
Massinissa (x042 470216; mains DA230-600) and some beautiful countryside of lush fields barracks, flanked by Roman columns. the resort has the dubious distinction of
Creperie Cleopatra (x076 740473; mains DA200-650) and old trees that shade the road. Closer The ancient theatre can be reached by being the place where the French landed
are among the better ones here. to Cherchell, you will see pieces of ancient continuing along the main road, away from their army on 14 June 1830, and where the
columns and capitals along the road, and Tipaza, and taking the third street on the Algerian president now has a villa. There is
CHERCHELL ‫ﺷﺮﺷﺎل‬ the remains of the great aqueduct Juba II left, rue du Théâtre Romain. The theatre a range of accommodation (x021 376778; www
Unlike Tipaza, where the ruins were exposed built to bring water from a source 35km is believed to be another of Juba II’s con- .sidiffredj-hotels.com), built around a pleasure
before the modern town could infringe too away. At the eastern entrance to the mod- structions. If it is, then it is one of the ear- port which has a range of facilities, includ-
far (although there is always tension been ern town, the remains of the amphitheatre liest surviving Roman theatres. The stage ing port, nightclub, shops and companies
conservation and development), Cherchell and eastern baths lie just off the main road. has survived, the capitals of the theatre’s running motorboat excursions out to sea
(ancient Caesarea) has less to show of its This road follows the ancient road to the columns can be seen in place des Martyrs, (count on at least DA3000 an hour for a
glorious past. The small town is, however, centre of town and the place des Martyrs, some of its statues are in the museum and boat holding five passengers). Most places
a delightful place to visit: it’s slow, a little site. The wide plaza, shaded by hundred- you can see where seating was arranged for like the hotels around Tipaza, are state-
sleepy, well shaded with great sea views, year-old fig trees, was one of the ancient 5000 spectators, although the stones are owned, run down and up for sale. Among
and its museum ranks as one of the finest forums: this one, from the 3rd century AD, said to have been taken to be used as pave- the restaurants, if you can’t wait for the city,
in the country. was a later addition. Remains of columns ments by the French. are Le Vivier (h021 376910; mains DA700-900), a
Remains from a 5th-century BC Punic line the modern square and a copy of a Return to the main street along rue Youcef fish restaurant tucked away from the main
settlement have been found and Caesarea monumental Roman fountain crowns its Khodja. On the left, at No 25, Herboristerie drag and overlooking the sea, and the more
obviously flourished long before Tipaza, centre. The ancient port, the site’s original ibn Sina (x077 211323) is a third-generation central Le Corso (h021 376910; mains DA500-900),
as it is mentioned as a town and port in a attraction, is still used by local fishermen. If business where Kamel Djebbour and his serving Algerian dishes including couscous
periplus (nautical guide), written in the 3rd, you need a guide, multilingual Abdelkader son Amine distil essential oils and prepare and brik. Both restaurants serve alcohol.
ALGIERS & AROUND 108 lonelyplanet.com
108 lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A 109
Kasserine
100 km
Draham
Northeast Algeria
Ebba Ksoui
Tabarka
Ain
Souk
el-Arba
50 miles
Le Kef
TUNISIA
Ghardimaou
Djerda
Kalaa
La Calle
Yusuf
Ouenza
East of Algiers, beyond the soaring hills of the Haute Kabylie, lies a region rich in natural
beauty and stirring history. The rugged coast of pine-clad hills and headlands hides a suc-
Clairfontaine
Tebessa
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
Lamy
cession of natural harbours and, by Mediterranean terms, unspoiled beaches. Towards the
8ºE
Tunisian border the landscape levels out as meandering rivers irrigate a rolling countryside
Souk Ahras
Annaba
La Meskiana
Cheria
of rich farmland. It was this combination of good anchorage, reliable water supplies and
Aine Seinour
Montesquieu
0
0
fertile land, which drew the succession of peoples who shaped the northeast – first Berbers,
Seraïdi
then Phoenicians, Numidians, Romans, Vandals, Byzantines, Arabs, Spaniards, Ottoman Turks
and French. The traces they left behind – especially the Numidian and Roman remains, as
Ain Beida
Guelma
Chataibi
at Timgad and Djemila – are the region’s big draw.
Mechtat
Tagouft
Gounod
Herbillon
The northeast is graced with some of Algeria’s most interesting towns and cities and
Jemmapes
some striking landscapes. Constantine, perched high above a river gorge and reached by
Oued Zenati
vertiginous bridges, should not be missed. The coastline around Annaba is one of the
Khenchela
Ain Fakroun
highlights, a rugged line of plunging wood-clad hills and hidden coves of fine sand and
7ºE
El Arrouch
Skikda
Abid
Aine
clear water. In all these places, as in Sétif, Guelma and elsewhere in the northeast, tourism
Le Khroub
outside the summer rush of returning Algerian expats is a low-key affair – you may have
Ain el-Bey
Lutaud
Touffana
hotels, restaurants and sites to yourself. Until tourism picks up, one of the features of the
The Mausoleum
of Medracen
Collo
region, particularly of the towns, will be a sense of abandonment, of financial hardship and
Mohamed
Boudiaf
Airport
Constantine
broken dreams, glimpsed in the faces of people who walk the streets or sit in cafés and on
Aine M'lila
Timgad
Tiddis
Cheraia
Levasseur
El-Beilek)
El-Mahder
benches, apparently with nowhere better to go and nothing much to do.
(azlet
El Milia
Chateaudun
Du Rhumel
Oued
Athmenia
Mila
Lambèse
Tletz
Pasteur
Batna
HIGHLIGHTS
St Donat
6ºE
Mzala
Fedi
Hang over the edge of Constantine’s vertiginous Mellah Slimane Bridge (p119), before
Mac Mahon
strolling around the atmospheric old city
(ain Touta)
El-Eulma
Djemila
Jijel
Take in the ancient town of Djemila (p132), as close as you can get to stepping back in time
MEDITERRANEAN
Walk in St Augustine’s footsteps at Hippo Regius (p113) before cooling off under the elegant
Ampere
SEA
colonial arcades of Annaba (p110)
Mansouria
Ziama
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
Sétif
Admire the Aïn Fouara (p131) and the
lie Hills
incongruity of this statue of a naked
Petite Kaby
Annaba
M'doukal
Barika
Mezoug
French woman gracing a fountain near the
Sétif
Airport
Pascal
Kerrata
central mosque of Sétif Djemila
Bejaia
Line up with the legionnaires who founded Sétif

Constantine
Aine Tagrout
Timgad (p126), a perfect example of
Souk Ouled
5ºE
Bordj
R'dir
Guenzet
Roman town planning with its carefully
Nadja
El-Kseur
planned grids and many baths

Timgad
Bordj Bou
Arreridj
37ºN
110 N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • A n n a b a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • A n n a b a 111
WARNING: SAFETY IN THE

beaches and with an elegant colonial-period ANNABA 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
centre, the city makes an excellent start or
NORTHEAST end point for a tour of the northeast.
Northeast Algeria has seen continued vio- To French
Consulate (500m);
lence over the past few years, even as the History Tunisian Consulate (800m)
rest of the country has remained quiet. The Phoenicians settled beside the natu- INFORMATION
5
Centre Culturel Français...............1 C1
There are both historical and social rea- ral port some 3000 years ago, connecting
Blvd 1 Nov 1954

Cyber.Net....................................2 C3
R
sons for this, and the aftermath of the this part of the country with Carthage (in 15
Ab
Dida Voyages et Tourisme...........3 C3 1
de
Direction de Tourisme..................4 C1
lh
2003 earthquake – when the government today’s Tunisia) and a string of trading
am
Italian Consulate..........................5 D1 4
id
dragged its feet over providing relief, colonies that stretched across the Mediter-
be
Main Post Office..........................6 C2
n
ONAT..........................................7 C2
Ba
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
especially to the militant town of Boumer- ranean. Since then Numidians, Romans 18
di
SOS Algérie Assistance Medicale..8 D2
s
23
Youssef
des – has not helped. Many foreign govern- and Vandals, Byzantines and Arabs, Otto- 6 8
SIGHTS
ments continue to advise against travelling mans and French have all fallen for the site, Basilica of St Augustine................9 A6
Av Ziohout
through parts of the northeast, especially with its natural defences and ready supply Bey's Mosque............................10
Mosque of Sidi Bou Merouane...11
D3
D3
the Haute Kabylie, the recommendation of food and fresh water. Ruins of Hippo Regius................12 B6 Allée du
17
Oc t
being to fly into Sétif, Annaba or one of the The original settlement, Hippo Regius, SLEEPING
ob r
e 22
13
other regional centres if possible. While this later known as Hippone, lies a mile south of Hôtel Atlantique.........................13 C2
Cours de la Révolution
e
Hôtel d'Orient............................14 C3
may seem extreme, especially when the sit- the present city: in antiquity, there was more
cin
Hôtel Majestic............................15 C1
Ho
7
uation is calm, there is clearly a continuing of an inlet, since filled in by silt from the Hôtel Mondial............................16 D2 16
dB
R des Frères Bouch
Hôtel SafSaf...............................17 D3 17
risk to foreigners travelling in remoter parts Seybouse River. The Numidians developed Theatre Pl du
eri
Blv
Covered
Market 2 14 19 Août
t
Hôtel Seybouse..........................18 C2 11
10 1956
of the region as well as in some towns; po- the settlement, but Hippo Regius flourished Blvd Ib n K ha ldoun 20
kader
EATING
lice were attacked in Tebessa in 2006 and most under the Romans, becoming a mu- La Potinière................................19 C3
21 3
nicipality under Augustus and then elevated
R Emir Abdel
Skikda in early 2007, and four bombs were Le Saint Pizzeria.........................20 C3 19
Restaurant Atlas.........................21 C3
exploded in Tizi Ouzou in February 2007. to a colony under Hadrian. Its wealth then, Restaurant SafSaf.....................(see 17) 24
as now, rested on its port – Hippo Regius
DRINKING
shipped wheat that fed Rome. But of the El Rio.........................................22 C2
ANNABA ‫ﻋﻨﺎﺑۃ‬
Pl 1 Mai Port
ancient settlement’s many stories, the most TRANSPORT
Train
Station
x038 / pop 352,000 poignant is that of St Augustine. Christianity
d
Sai
Air Algérie..................................23 C2
Annaba’s excellent natural port and its prox- first appeared here in the mid-3rd century – Algérie Ferries and Gare
ali
u
Maritime................................24 D3
Bo
imity to fresh water and some very fertile Bishop Theogenes was martyred in 259 – Gare Routière (Bus Station)........25 B4
Av
Gare Routière (Bus Station)........26 A5
farmland drew the Phoenicians here in the but Augustine was not baptised into
first place and have ensured the city’s con- Christianity until he was 33. Four years later,
le
tinuing prosperity. Today, its port handles in 391, the Christians of Hippo Regius chose na
tio
Na
the majority of the country’s considerable him as their priest, and he was soon elevated t i on
ra
mineral exports. But alongside business, An- to bishop. Under Augustine, and particu- ibé
d eL
naba has preserved its sense of history and larly after Rome fell to the Visigoths in 410, 25 Arm
ée
'
ala
culture. The city where St Augustine chose the city became one of the key centres of d eI
el K
Av
to live out his last years, known variously Christianity. Shortly after Augustine’s death
eD
Sidi Brahim
over the centuries as Hippo Regius, Hip- in 430, Hippo Regius fell to the Vandals and
t
Rou
26
pone, Annabe, Bône and now Annaba, has began a rapid slide into obscurity. de le
ée na
rm tio
a reputation for being a quiet haven, in spite The settlement was moved to its present I ' A Na
de tion
of the fact that in 1992 President Mohamed site – presumably to escape flooding – in Av éra
Lib
Boudiaf, recently returned from 28 years in the 11th century and in the 16th century To Skikda;
Constantine;
exile to head a reconciliation government, was given its present name by the pirate Tunis
was assassinated here. Annaba saw little of Kheireddin Barbarossa. When he took the
the violence that scarred other cities during town in the 1520s, he is said to have noticed
the ‘black years’ of the 1990s and many fami- the abundance of jujube trees, called An- MEDITERRANEAN
SEA
lies moved here from Algiers and the west. nabe in Arabic. Ottoman rule did little to
The port, the steel mills and tourism, advance the town, when it became subject to
centred around the stunning remains of Constantine. But after the French invasion 12
nearby Hippo Regius and, in the sum- of 1832, Annaba – renamed Bône – was de- 9
mer, the beaches, provide the majority of veloped into a modern city and major port.
work opportunities. Annaba is Algeria’s British and American forces used it as a base
fourth largest city, with a sizeable univer- during WWII, which led to it being heavily To Airport
(10km)
sity. Ringed by hills, close to some good bombed from 1942 to 1943.
112 N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • A n n a b a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • A n n a b a 113
Orientation TRAVEL AGENCIES

The modern city revolves around the Cours Of the many travel agencies in town, the THE CHURCH FATHER
de la Révolution, a large open space, cov- following offer a booking service for ship- St Augustine was born to a pagan father and Christian mother (later canonised as St Monica)
ered in trees and lined with grand build- ping (Algérie Ferries, SNCM) and flights in Tagaste, now Souk Ahras, on 13 November 354. Nothing about his early life suggested what
ings, leading down to the port. The colonial (Air Algérie, Aigle Azur). was to follow. A teenager of exceptional intellect, he went to Carthage to finish his studies
city has seen much development since inde- Dida Voyages et Tourisme (x038 866666; www.dida like other promising Numidian students. As well as furthering his education, Augustine fell for
pendence, and has spread north, west and -voyages.com; 3 Cours de la Révolution) the temptations of the city, kept a mistress and fathered an illegitimate son before he was 18.
south of here, while due east of the Cours ONAT (x038 865891/865886; 1 rue Tarek Ibn Ziad) He lived during the end of the Roman Empire, taught literature in Tagaste and then Carthage
lies the older Ottoman town. The remains before moving to Rome and then, in 384, to Milan, where he was appointed Professor of Rhetoric
of ancient Hippone and the Basilica of Dangers & Annoyances at the imperial court, one of the most important intellectual posts in the empire. He was just
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
St Augustine lie just over 1.5km southwest Like any port and like any city with work 30 and had the emperor’s full attention. In Milan he was won over to Christianity by Bishop
of the Cours. shortages, you should take extra care of Ambrose (later a saint), who baptised Augustine and his son, Adeodatus, on Easter Saturday in
your valuables, carry only the necessary on 387. The conversion was the end of his court ambitions: Augustine longed for a quiet retreat
Information you and be wise about where you walk. Be where he could pray and read scripture. He settled in the town of his birth in 391, but two
CULTURAL CENTRES particularly careful in the area around the years later was on a visit to Hippo Regius when the congregation pressed him into being their
Centre Culturel Français (x038 864540; www.ccf market and the casbah in the daytime, and priest. In 393 he was elected to the bishopric of Hippo, a position he held, and from which he
-annaba.com; 8 blvd 1 Nov 1954; h9.30am-5.30pm Sun- everywhere at night. preached and wrote, until his death. Augustine’s contribution to Christianity lies in his works,
Thu) Has a library and theatre, and shows regular films. Confessions (397), his autobiography and De Civitate Dei (413), a reaffirmation of fundamental
Sights Christian values at a time when the church was seen as corrupt and in decline. In May 430
EMERGENCY CITY CENTRE Vandals under Genseric besieged Hippo Regius. Augustine died on 28 August, just before the
Police (x17 or 038 546664) Bône la Coquette (the Elegant) they used to city fell.
SOS Algérie Assistance Médicale (x038 860858; call it, and the centre of town has retained
3 Chemin des Caroubiers) some of its charms, if a little jaded. The
Cours de la Révolution was the centrepiece of HIPPO REGIUS ‫ﻋﻨﺎﺑۃ‬ floors still visible. The so-called Villa of the
FOREIGN CONSULATES the French city and remains the bustling The ruins of the ancient city of Hippo Regius Labyrinth and Villa of the Procurateur are the
France (x038 860583; rue Sebti Ghouta) heart today. A long, broad street, its lanes (adult/child DA20/10; h8.30am-noon &1-4.30pm), also most impressive. Here too are the remains
Italy (x038 868080; 8 rue Khaya Mohamed Tahar) separated by a broad, tree-shaded espla- known as Hippone, are among the most of the smaller southern baths.
Tunisia (x038 864568; av du 28 janvier 1957) nade, it also boasts the city’s most elaborate evocative in Algeria, stretched across a The path continues to the Christian
architecture, where, with buildings such as rolling site, full of flowers, rosemary, olive quarter where the 42m-long outline of the
INTERNET ACCESS the Amphorae and the Lion & Caryatid, trees, birds and sheep, and overlooked by grand basilica can still be traced, especially its
There is no shortage of places all around colonial architects vied to outdo each other the imposing, colonial-era Basilica of St central apse, which unusually faces north,
the centre, but if you can’t see one, head for in the extravagance of their façades. In the Augustine. You enter from what was the while its floors are still covered with mosa-
the small square behind the theatre. Cyber middle, palms and giant fig trees provide seafront, the water having receded several ics. This may well have been the basilica
.Net (x038 805325; 23 rue Emir Abdelkader; per hr shade for a number of popular outdoor hundred metres over the millennia. There where St Augustine was bishop – the date
DA60) has the fastest connection. cafés, where the city’s elderly and idle while is a good plan of the site by the entrance. It is right, but there is no other evidence to
away the day. Here too is the Hôtel d’Orient is worth climbing the small hill to the mu- prove the possibility. A path of massive pav-
MONEY (p114), the theatre and town hall. seum, before seeing the ruins. The ground ing slabs, laid over drains, leads to the mar-
Several banks along the Cours de la Révolu- Rue des Frères Boucherit leads off the floor contains a good collection of sculpture ket (a central dias reached by three steps and
tion and in the new town will change money Cours, to the place du 19 Aout 1956, the in the Salle des Bustes, including the Em- enclosed by four acanthus-capped columns)
and a few, including the Crédit Populaire Algérie centrepoint of the old town, some of it peror Vespasian found in the forum. The and then on to the forum. It stands 76m by
(No 7) have ATMs, as does the main post office dating back to the 16th century, when the star piece of the museum, the unique 2.5m- 43m, with some of its 3.6m-high columns
(though none that accepted European cards pirate Kheireddin Barbarossa claimed An- high Trophy, is a bronze representation of a still intact. The forum was surrounded by a
at the time of our visit). Hotels Seybouse naba for the Ottoman sultan. The streets post on which is hung a cape and military colonnade, several small shrines, a fountain
(p114) and Majestic (p114) will change for- here are more narrow and the houses less armour. On the wall is a fine mosaic of four at the north end and latrines to the south.
eign currency, but the best rates are to be elaborate. There is a small second-hand and Nereids. There are more mosaics across In the middle stood the ancient capitol and
had in the street around the covered market. food market in the square most days. The the hall, the most impressive being a 3rd- several statues (of which nothing remains),
Bey’s Mosque, built soon after Barbarossa had century hunting scene, in which lion, leop- and beyond is an inscription by one of the
POST taken the town, looks over the square and ards and antelope are chased into a trap. city’s benefactors, C Paccius Africanus,
Main post office (1 av Zighout Youcef ) is the largest in this part of town. More Another mosaic, of a fishing scene, includes made proconsul in AD 78 by Emperor Ves-
interesting is the Mosque of Sidi Bou Merouane, a view of 3rd-century Hippo. pasien. The great North Baths, beyond the
TOURIST INFORMATION 250m away, reached via a steep climb up The ruins are spread over a large area. forum, were closed at the time of research.
The Syndicat d’Initiative was not open at the street. Named after an 11th-century The district near the entrance and ‘sea- Towering above the ruins, on its own
the time of our visit, but the Direction de holy man, the mosque is smaller than the front’ was residential and the remains of small hill, the colonial-era Basilica St Au-
Tourisme (x038 863013; 9 blvd 1 Nov 1954) may be Bey’s but built using columns and stones several villas can be visited, their courtyards gustine (h 9-11.30am & 2.30-4.30pm Mon-Thu,
able to help. from Hippo. marked by columns, some of the walls and 11-11.30am & 2.30-4.30pm Fri & Sun, closed Sat) was
114 N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • A n n a b a Book accommodation online
lyplanet.com Book
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • A r o u n d A n n a b a 115
intended as a sign of France’s revival of o Hôtel Majestic (x 038 865454; www Getting There & Away Cours de la Révolution, even the ruins at
past glory. The first stone was laid in 1881, .hotel-lemajestic.com; 11 blvd 1 Nov 1954; s/d/ste B&B AIR Hippo Regius. A taxi to Hippo should not
the basilica completed in 1900. Beneath the DA5000/5800/7800; pa ) A plain exterior Rabah Bitat Airport (x038 520132; www.egsa-con cost more than DA150, although you will
soaring nave and huge arches, surrounded disguises this extremely well-run hotel. stantine.dz) is 12km from the centre and as need to negotiate to be picked up. There is
by Carrara marble, Grenoble stained glass Opened in 2006 at the end of the Cours there is no bus, you’ll need to go by taxi no public transport to the airport. A taxi
and local onyx, lies a statue of St Augustine, de la Révolution, the Majestic has large, (up to DA500). A new terminal building is should cost around DA500.
its right arm containing one of the saint’s soundproof rooms with good bathrooms currently being planned. Air Algérie (x038
arm bones. (and baths), an extremely helpful reception 847333; Rond Point Sidi Brahim x038 867120; www AROUND ANNABA
The 1st-century theatre of Hippo, with and a panoramic restaurant serving typi- .airalgerie.dz; Cours de la Révolution) flies to Algiers Beaches
the largest stage of any antique theatre in cal Algerian dishes. A free shuttle runs to and Oran, as well as Paris, Lyon, Marseille Annaba’s inability to exploit beach tour-
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
North Africa, lies at the foot of the hill. The the airport, though you need to contact the and Nice (France). ism has long had Algerians gnashing their
gate separating the ruins from the basilica hotel in advance to be met. teeth. In 1995 the municipality drew up a
can only be opened from the side of the Hôtel Seybouse (x038 862093; 1 blvd 1 Nov 1954; BOAT new plan to develop and promote beach
antiquities, so if you want to visit both on s/d B&B DA6000/10000; pa) The city’s only Most of the shipping in Annaba’s port is tourism in the area, but progress is ultra
foot, you will need to start at the ruins and five-star hotel sits right in the centre. It’s a industrial, but Algérie Ferries (x865557; www slow. However, this doesn’t mean the
walk up the winding path to the basilica. 1970s block with smart rooms, a panoramic .algerieferries.com; Gare Maritime) sails to Marseille beaches will be empty. The huge Al-Hadjar
restaurant, a bar that serves alcohol and, (France) and Alicante (Spain). steel works and other industrial plants on
Sleeping should you feel the need, a disco. the outskirts of the city mean the nearest
Hôtel Mondial (x 038 862946; 9 rue des Frères BUS beaches are not as pristine as they might
Boucherit; s/d B&B with shower DA750/1200) A hang- Eating The gare routière (bus station) is just over be, but if you come in July or August you
over from the groovy 1960s, its bright, sim- Le Saint Pizzeria (x037 327715; 9 Cours de la Révo- 1km from the centre along the av de l’Armée will find the place packed with holiday-
ple, spotless rooms all have heating and fan. lution; mains DA200-300) A popular pizza place de Libération Nationale at Sidi Brahim, a 20- makers and locals cashing in on the ac-
The halls are lined with photos and plants, right in the centre of things, under the minute walk or DA100 taxi. Since the buses commodation shortage by renting out
the Hertz car-rental sign at reception is now arcades of the Cours. Pick up your pizza were nationalised, the upstairs information rooms as B&Bs. The coast west of the city
just a souvenir of times past, but the owner and eat under the trees, perfect on a warm and booking office has been abandoned and is the place to head for, a series of beautiful
is as friendly as ever. evening. you must ask at the quays for tickets and coves, where the hills fall right into the sea.
Hôtel Atlantique (x038 862857; 2 rue Bouzbid; Restaurant SafSaf (x038 863435; place 19 Aout information. Main services include Algiers The best of them start at Ras el-Hamra, also
s/d B&B DA850/1600) Rooms with shower here 1956; mains DA300-400) It’s hard to fault this (DA700, 10 hours), Sétif (DA350, four to known as Cap de Garde and include La Ca-
are what you would expect at this price, simple restaurant, on the 1st floor of Hôtel five hours), Constantine (DA150, 1¼ hours) roube, Toche and Ain Achir. A lighthouse,
straightforward and functioning, but the SafSaf. Clean, air-conditioned and run by a and Guelma (DA70, one hour). For many built by the French in 1850, marks the ras
cleanliness leaves a lot to be desired. The meticulous maître d’, it serves simple, well- other destinations, you need to change at (headland) at El-Hamra. Out of season it’s
location is good though. prepared dishes including lamb shoulder Sétif. The Tunis service seems to have been given over to mussel and oyster farmers,
Hôtel Touring (x038 861449; 3 rue des Volontaires; and grilled fish. There is often a good-value discontinued, though there are still shared lovers in need of privacy and pilgrims com-
s/d B&B DA1400/1800; a) The calling card says lunch menu. taxis. ing to pay their respects to Sidi Nour. The
the hotel has been entirely renewed, but, La Potinière (x038 866141; 1 Cours de la Révo- cave to the left of his white, barrel-vaulted
judging by the state of the rooms here, lution; mains DA400-600) Right at the beginning TAXI tomb, known as Beit el-Qaïd, is used for
that might have been a while back. The of the Cours, the Potinière is an Annaba Shared taxis leave from the Sidi Brahim religious and family gatherings. The best
1930s building is well placed, the reception old-timer, serving reliable French-inspired gare routière. Destinations include Algiers of the beaches lie between Ras el-Hamra
friendly and the rooms OK, with shower food, a cut above (and a little more expen- (DA1200), Sétif (DA500), Constantine and Chataibi.
and TV. sive) than most of the competition. (DA250), Biskra (DA600), Tebessa (DA400)
Hôtel SafSaf (x038 863435; place 19 Aout 1956; Restaurant Atlas (x038 802570; 2 Zenine Larbi; and Guelma (DA100). SLEEPING & EATING
s/tw/d/tr B&B DA1600/2200/2400/2900; a) An un- mains DA500-600) A reliable air-conditioned Hôtel Shams les Bains (x038 882155; rte Cap de Garde;
expected find, this modern, midrange hotel restaurant just off the Cours de la Révolu- TRAIN [email protected]; pas) Algeria’s first
on the central square of the old town has tion, it serves grilled steaks and merguez Annaba’s huge mosquelike station (x038 private resort isn’t as fresh as when it first
been well renovated. It offers comfortable (spicy seasoned lamb or goat sausages), 863302/855263) with a minaret clock tower is a opened in 1984, but in season it still gets
rooms with private bathrooms and a reput- calamari rice and fresh fish. It also serves short walk from the end of the Cours de la lively with Algerian families. There’s a cab-
edly good restaurant. alcohol. Révolution and close to the port. The over- aret and disco at night.
Hôtel d’Orient(x038 860364; 13 Cours de la Révo- night express to Algiers leaves at 8.20pm Hôtel Mountazah (x038 874118; village of Ser-
lution; s/d B&B DA2500/3000; a ) The obvious Drinking (sleeping car 2nd/1st class DA1221/1650, seat aïdi; pas) Among the hotels the French
choice for lovers of old hotels, the d’Orient Alcohol is hard to find in Annaba outside DA945; 10 hours). Other destinations include architect Fernand Pouillon built in Algeria
still has some of its colonial splendour, in- of the places mentioned above and El-Rio Sidi Amar (DA20) and Souk Ahras (DA95). from the 1950s, the Mountazah ranks as
cluding a piano in the café and plenty of (30 Cours de la Révolution), which tends to stay one of the most inspired. A white fortress
Moorish Orientalist touches. Rooms over- open later than most. If the weather al- Getting Around perched on a rock in this hillside village, it
looking the main road can be noisy, but lows, the cafés under the fig trees along the Most places you will want to visit in An- has large whitewashed rooms, a restaurant
have excellent views. Cours are popular for a tea or ice cream. naba are within easy walking distance of the that works well when busy and a curvaceous
116 N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • A r o u n d A n n a b a Book accommodation online
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pool that overlooks magnificent woods and is at the end of the main street and there city spreads down across the plain below
the sea. KEEPING AN EYE ON YOU are regular buses to Annaba (DA40) and the old battlements – but it has not lost
Hôtel Rym el-Djamil (x038 882143; rte Cap de Anthony Sattin Constantine (DA70). Collective taxis run to sight of its origins. There is remarkably lit-
Garde; pas) There are no budget ho- I was followed out of my hotel in Guelma. Constantine (DA200), Annaba (DA100) and tle to see, considering how long and in-
tels along this stretch of coast and only one I had walked around town all the previous as far afield as Algiers (DA1000), Tebessa teresting a history it boasts, but there is
four-star, the Rym, popular in summer with day, so I knew it wasn’t like parts of Algiers (DA300) and M’Sila (DA700). something special about the place, evident
honeymooners. The hotel is above a small, or Oran, where you might be hassled by in malouf, its Arabo-Andalusian music, in
semiprivate beach. people with nothing better to do than to CONSTANTINE ‫ﻗﺴﻨﻄﻴﻨۃ‬ its sophisticated embroidery and a dozen
There are few outstanding restaurants see what opportunities a lone foreigner x031 / pop 485,000 other ways that express Constantine’s long,
along the coast, the exception being La Cara- might provide. I didn’t have to wait long to Algeria’s third city, Constantine, is one of proud story.
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
velle (x038 822950/805373; rte de la Corniche; mains
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
find out what this man wanted. He caught the grand spectacles of the north, made
DA400-1000), an old-timer with plenty of fresh up with me on the main street and intro- by nature but embellished by man. Over Information
fish. It’s reputedly the best of the lot. duced himself as an agent of the Service for time, the Oued Rhumel carved out a deep CULTURAL CENTRES
the Protection of Tourists. He didn’t offer gorge around an outcrop of rock, creating Centre Cultural Français (x031 912591; www.ccf
GETTING THERE AND AWAY any ID, but I reckoned it didn’t matter. a natural fortress that was already occupied constantine.com; 1 blvd de l’Indépendence) As active here
It’s 50km from Annaba to Chataibi. During ‘Are you here for business, or tourism?’ he in Neolithic times. Since then Constantine as elsewhere in Algeria, with a library, theatre and regular
the day there are a few departures from the asked and then wanted to know if I was (Cirta as it was known in antiquity, Qacen- film screenings.
gare routière at Sidi Brahim towards Ras el- alone. ‘Yes, alone. Is there a problem?’ ‘No,’ tina as it has also been called) has always
Hamra and then on to Chataibi. A taxi will he replied, ‘no problem, it’s just…’ ‘Good,’ I been a city of political, cultural and eco- EMERGENCY
save time and aggravation (around DA800 said lightly, ‘for how could there be? People nomic significance. Hospital Ibn Badis (x031 944966)
to Chataibi). here are so welcoming.’ He still seemed to be The Numidians made it their capital and Town hall (x031 922900)
troubled by the idea of my travelling alone – after Julius Caesar defeated the army of
Guelma ‫ﻗﺎﻟﻤۃ‬ solo foreigners are still a rare sight – so I Juba I at Thapsus, it remained the capital of INTERNET ACCESS
x037 / pop 110,000 asked if he wanted to accompany me to the Roman Numidia. The Romans destroyed Constantine is currently not as well-
If you are following the story of ancient museum. ‘The where?’ he responded. the city after a rebellion in AD 311, but endowed with internet cafés as other north-
Algeria and still have an appetite for ruins, the Emperor Constantine then gave orders east towns, such as Annaba and Sétif, but
then you will want to stop at Guelma. The for it to be rebuilt – and renamed, using there are several dotted around the centre,
small agricultural town, 65km southwest of time of our visit. Beyond lies the theatre his name. including one with good connection across
Annaba, 115km northeast of Constantine, and museum (admission DA20; h8am-noon & 2pm- The French writer Alexandre Dumas rue Hamlaoui from the Hôtel Central
sat near the frontier of ancient Numidia 4.30pm Sat-Thu). Most of the ancient theatre called it ‘a fantastic city, something like (p120).
and Proconsul Africa. The town’s early his- was quarried over the centuries, so what Gulliver’s flying island’. The sense of fan-
tory is something of an enigma, but it is stands today – a soaring backdrop, an im- tasy has still not left it, for however much MONEY
known that the Roman army was defeated posing stage and rows of seating – dates building has gone on around, the heart of There are banks and ATMs on place 1 No-
near here by Jugurtha in 109 BC. By the back no further than 1902, when the French Constantine remains on that upland shelf, vembre, though the bureaus may only take
time of Trajan, Guelma (or Calama as it archaeologist M Joly began the reconstruc- reached by bridges. It is a cosmopolitan cash and the ATMs may not accept foreign
was known) was a Roman municipality and tion. The site is impressive though, as are place which, over the centuries, has at- cards. Hôtel Cirta (p121) may change for-
in AD 283 became a colony. St Augustine’s the statues of Neptune and Aesclepius on tracted traders, as well as invaders, from eign cash. There are usually people willing
biographer Possidius lived here before the stage, and a mosaic of the triumph of Venus around the Mediterranean including Jews to change money on place 1 Novembre.
Vandal invasion of 437. In 533 the Byzan- in the right-hand side-chamber. But Guel- from France and Spain, Ottoman Turks, You will know them by the wads of cash
tines retook the town and made it one of ma’s most celebrated sculpture is the so- Genoese and others. From the 16th cen- they will be fluttering.
their North African strongholds, but with called ‘schoolboy of Madaure’, supposedly a tury, after the Turks conquered much of
the arrival of the Arabs in the 7th century representation of St Augustine as a child. what is now Algeria, Constantine – Qa- POST
Guelma sank into obscurity. When the If you need to stay in Guelma en route for centina – became an important, independ- The main post office is one of the large, white-
French army arrived in 1836 it was a ruin. Constantine, Hôtel Mermoura (x037 262626; av ent beylik, and even after the last bey was washed buildings on place 1 Novembre.
The modern town is a sleepy, provincial Ali Chorfi; s/d/ste DA2750/3300/12000; pa), an un- chased from his palace by the colonising
place with little to show for its illustrious inspiring concrete-block three-star hotel, a French, the bey continued the struggle TOURIST INFORMATION
past. Walking along the main street, blvd 10-minute walk from the gare routière, is from elsewhere in the region until resist- Office Locale du Tourisme (x031 943954/932661;
1 Novembre, you would be forgiven for the best option, with comfortable beds and ance became impossible, for a while. On 32 rue Abdane Ramdane)
missing it, while finding most of what a a helpful reception. The restaurant is lack- 8 May 1945 (a date commemorated in street
traveller needs in the way of banks, ho- lustre and better food is to be found in the names across the region) it was here, and TRAVEL AGENCIES
tels, restaurant and taxiphones. The rue 8 simple restaurants along and just off blvd in neighbouring Sétif and Guelma, that the EGT Est (x031 929235; Hôtel Cirta)
May 1945, just beyond the central Hôtel la 1 Nov, where a meal of soup and chicken independence movement started (see the ONAT (x031 941403; 16 rue Didouche Mourad) One of
Couronne, leads to the Jardin Archéologique, couscous will cost up to DA300. boxed text, May Day p129). two branches of the nationwide agency, it can book flights
where columns and statues have been ar- Guelma is easily visited en route between Constantine today has grown far away and hotels as well as local tours.
ranged in a garden that was locked at the Annaba and Constantine. The gare routière from its original fortifications – the new Zénith Voyages (x031 620023; 9 rue Larkab SMK)
118 N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • C o n s t a n t i n e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • C o n s t a n t i n e 119
CONSTANTINE 0
0 0.2 miles
400 m Sights Eight years in the making, it was opened in
SIDI M’CID BRIDGE 1925 and is heavily used today, so much so
The Sidi M’Cid Bridge (also known as the that you will feel it swing and wobble as
INFORMATION
Suspended Bridge) is Constantine’s iconic you cross the centrepoint. Steep steps lead
To Monument
Banque Centrale d' Algérie...........1 B4 to the Dead monument, its image defining the city. It up from the bridge to street level on the city
Banque Nationale d'Algérie..........2
EGT Est.........................................3
B4
B5
is a 164m-long suspension bridge, opened side. A lift (DA3; h7am-6pm Sat-Thu, 9am-12.30pm
Main Post Office..........................4 B4 to traffic in April 1912. The bridge links Fri) will save your legs.
Office Locale du Tourisme...........5 A5
ONAT..........................................6 C3
the casbah to the slopes of Sidi M’Cid hill.
Views of town and the gorge 175m below CIRTA MUSEUM
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Cirta Museum..............................7 A5
you are stunning and, in spite of movement, The city doesn’t have much to show for
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
the bridge is quite safe; 12 of its cables were its illustrious past, but the colonial-period
hu t e s
Grand Mosque.............................8 B4 Sidi M‘Cid
Palace of Ahmed Bey....................9 B3 nt
Po replaced in 2000. Unfortunately, in recent museum (x 031 923895; www.cirtamuseum.org.dz;
des C
Souk el-Ghazal Mosque.............10 B3
Po n t
years this bridge (and the others around Plateau Coudiat; admission DA20; h8.30am-4pm Sun-
SLEEPING
Grand Hôtel...............................11 B4 town) have become popular for suicides, Fri) has proof enough. The collection comes
Hôtel Central..............................12 B4 Ca
sb
ah
as it seems that the majority of Constan- from excavations in the city and nearby
Hôtel Cirta..................................13 B5
Hôtel des Princes........................14 A5 tine’s suicides are people jumping off the Tiddis (see p122) and with the displays
Hôtel-Restaurant el-Hawa Talk..15 C3 la B
Be lvd
bridges. being something of a jumble, it appears
EATING
lg
iq de
ue
as an old-style ‘cabinet of curiosities’. But
Dar Elsoltane..............................16 B3
PALACE OF AHMED BEY there are some stunning pieces, the high-
um
Restaurant Cirta.......................(see 13)

Hajj Ahmed became bey or ruler of Con- lights include a seated terracotta figure
ro
uh
Bo
SHOPPING
stantine in 1826, and started building his from a 2nd-century BC tomb and an ex-
l
du
Amar Bouldajdj & Frères............17 C3 17

Ab
new palace (place Si-El Haoues; hofficially closed at quisite marble bust of a woman known as
i
Sid
TRANSPORT
the time of writing) two years later. Progress was the ‘beauty of Djemila’. Also worth seeing
R
Air Algérie................................. 18 A5 Pont el-Kantar

Gare Routière (Bus Station)........19 A4
'H
id
i a
slow, partly due to objections of the more is the beautifully cast bronze sculpture of
d
ra
M powerful dey of Algiers, but Ahmed finally winged ‘Victory of Constantine’, found by
ou
n
Be
M
i occupied his new home in 1835. Beyond soldiers while excavating the streets of the
he
rb
La
uc
9
the high white walls lies one of the fin- casbah in 1855. If you are planning a visit
do
6 15
Di
10
est Ottoman-era buildings in the country. to the Roman site at Tiddis (p122), look out
R
B lv
d
With a series of courtyards surrounded for the collection marked Vie quotidienne à
id o
Zig
16
Sa oua
Train
ho
Station
R
12
by tiled arcades, it is filled with gardens of Tiddis (Daily Life in Tiddis). The museum
ut
M
You
ell
olive and orange trees, and decorated with also houses a small collection of paintings
t
a
Aoû
Br h S
'Hidi
s
1 idg lim
s ef
i Ben M
R Larb e an Tunisian and French tiles. Ahmed’s enjoy- by Algerian and French Orientalists, in-
20
19 8 e
Pl 1
ment of this wonderful place was short- cluding a study of a horse by the French
du
Novembre 11
Av
Ali
2
4 lived because two years after he moved in, 19th-century romantic Eugène Fromentin.
he
id
ouc
the French chased him out and turned the

ula
Bo
Zam
Av
palace into their headquarters. After inde- SOUK EL-GHAZAL MOSQUE

n
Place
Be
de
s
Av
f rs des
Av
R B ou
djeriou
Martyrs pendence the Algerian military moved in. The Souk el-Ghazal Mosque is closed to
18
3 The palace has been closed for more than non-Muslims, but is worth a look on your
13
25 years but was undergoing significant res- way to the Bey’s palace. Built in 1730 by
ie
toration at the time of research. It’s a massive Abbas ben Alloul Djelloul, a Moroccan, on
man
7
R ou
project – there are, for instance, some 250 the orders of the then Bey of Constantine,
Pon
marble columns, acres of tiles and 45 carved Hussein Bou Kemia, it reuses Roman-period
de
t
S id
e
da n
i Ra
e
ch
nu
ed
Av cedarwood doors. A completion date was granite columns. After the French defeated
am
eR
not announced, but it may be possible the Bey and took control of the city, the
ban
ed
to visit by contacting the Agence Nationale mosque was enlarged, realigned and con-
RA
amm
14
c h ma n i
d’Archéologie et de Protection des Monuments et verted into the cathedral, Notre-Dame-des-

Moh
el
um
Sites (x031 946831; 2 rue Siaf Med). Sept-Douleurs in 1838. It was turned back
Rh
5
our Ra
uate
Oued
into a mosque after independence.

R Ao
Av Ach
MELLAH SLIMANE BRIDGE

Of all the dramatic bridges that cross the OTHER MOSQUES
Oued Rhumel, none is as exciting to walk Constantine is graced with several other
across as the Mellah Slimane Bridge, some beautiful mosques, but these, as all others,
To Centre Culturel
100m above the water. Stretching 125m are only open to Muslims. The oldest, and
To Mosque Of Emir
Abdelkader (1km);
Français (2km);
Gare Routiére
long and a mere 2.5m wide, it joins the one of the most visible, is the Grand Mosque
Airport (21km) (Bus Station) (4km) train station with the centre of the old town. (rue Larbi ben M’Hidi). Built in the 13th century on
120 N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • C o n s t a n t i n e Book accommodation online
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l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • C o n s t a n t i n e 121
the site of a pagan temple, it was intended, place des Martyrs (2). With the white bulk of CONSTANTINE WALKING TOUR 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
as the Friday mosque, to hold most of the Hôtel Cirta (3; opposite) on your right, con-
To Site 8 - Monument
city’s population. Although it has been re- tinue to place 1 Novembre. Several streets to the Dead (50m)
built over the centuries and has a modern lead out of the north side of the square:
hu t e s
façade, the interior has retained some of its take the one straight ahead, rue Didouche 7
original features, including some pillars and Mourad, beside Café el-Andalous. A little
des C
id
’C
Corinthian capitals brought from Hippo way down, steps on your left lead past the Po n t id
i M
S
Regius. The city’s most prominent monu- Souk el-Ghazal Mosque (4; p119) to the small Po
nt
ment – you will see its twin 107m high square (currently an unofficial car park) in
minarets as you approach the centre – is the front of the Palace of Ahmed Bey (5; p119).
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
Mosque of Emir Abdelkader. The project started The Café de la Place is a good place for Bl
vd
in 1968 as a desire to build a mosque cap- refreshments. Take the small road beside de
ah
sb
Ca
la B
able of accommodating 10,000 in its prayer the café and turn right, beside the Banque 6
el
hall, but when the then president Houari Extérieure Algérie, and continue up rue iq
g
ue
u m
Boumediène became involved, it grew into Sidi Abdul Bouhroum.
ro
uh
Bo
the current, ambitious building: one of the At the top of the hill, opposite the lively
l
du
Ab
world’s largest mosques and Algeria’s first Café des Chasseurs and a good embroidery
rad
i
Sid
Pont el-Kantar
ou
a
modern Islamic university. shop, is the 1848 Porte de la Casbah (6), the
M
he
French-built gate to the fort, now (as always)
uc
do
off-limits to civilians. The road continues
Di
MONUMENT TO THE DEAD 5
i
R
id
Just beyond the Sidi M’Cid Bridge, on a hill down to the spectacular Sidi M’Cid Bridge (7; M
'H
id
4 n
Sa
of the same name, stands the Monument p119). Cross the bridge and take the path on iB
e
o
rb
Blv
ua
to the Dead. It was built specifically for the the left, from where there are stunning views La
Ro
d
R
Zig
R
people of Constantine, from Alfred Abdilla of the casbah, gorge and city. Continue to the
hou
t Y
to Jacob Zitoun who died ‘Pro Patria’, the triumphal Monument to the Dead (8; left), with 9
ou
sse
country being France, not Algeria. The more big views over the plains, and then
f
monument is a copy of the arch of Trajan at return to the bridge and follow the road left,
Timgad (p128). The statue of winged Vic- beneath the huge, domed, colonial-era hos-
Av de Roumanie
id
ula
tory that tops the monument is an enlarged pital. Look out on the right for steps, which
Bo
n
Be
replica of the bronze sculpture in the Cirta lead steeply down into the gorge and end up
Ali
e
2
Av
he
Museum (p119). at an elegant, tiled villa. Turn right, over the Pont S
ouc
R idi Ra
Boudjeriou
railway lines, and staying on the east side
Zam
ch
ed
Walking Tour of the gorge, follow the busy road past the
Av
d ane
el
um
With its winding streets, sloping alleys, train station and the statue of Constantine. 3
Rh
am
r
ani
chou
sudden staircases and dramatic views, cen- On your right you will see the old city, up
eR
ed
Ou
Rachm
1
ban
Av A
tral Constantine is perfect for walking. You on the hill, and the pedestrian-only Mellah
RA
could rush around the main sights in, say, Slimane Bridge (9; p119). Cross the bridge (if
half a day, and think that you’ve been there you don’t have a head for heights, you’ll
and done that, but you definitely would have want to stay close to the rail) and then take and a range of rooms and prices. All rooms
missed something important: the essence of the lift (if it is working) to the street below, WALK FACTS are extremely comfortable, equipped with
the place. This isn’t something found in the rue Larbi ben M’Hidi. Turn left, past Start Cirta Museum good beds, shower (some with bath) and
any one sight, instead it is something to be the Grand Mosque, and return to the place Finish Hôtel Cirta fridge. Rooms on the street (and mosque)
absorbed, glimpsed perhaps in a doorway des Martyrs and the Hôtel Cirta, perfect for Distance 3km side can be noisy, but that’s a small price to
or up an alley, as you walk about the centre. a drink or meal. Duration Two to three hours pay for quality at this price.
This tour will take you past most of the Hôtel-Restaurant el-Hawa Talk (x031 940480;
main sights and past places with stunning Sleeping 88 rue Larbi ben M’hidi; s/d/tr B&B with shower DA1130/
views of the city and gorge. Hôtel Central (x031 641321; 19 rue Hamlaoui; s/d with has plenty of character and is clean and 1330/1740) Another budget place on this
Begin at the Cirta Museum (1; p119), a good DA450/600) Rooms are basic but it lives up to warm. It doesn’t have showers though, and busy street, but this one’s further down the
place to start, as it gives a comprehensive its name, though it is on an alley that some you’ll need to cross the road to the passage hill, past the mosque and the lift down to
overview of the hidden history of the city, will find seedy. No breakfast is available but marked Café des 2 Arcades for that. the Mellah Slimane Bridge. Rooms are ad-
from prehistoric to the Islamic period. Take the Café el-Andalous is around the corner. oHôtel des Princes (x 031 912625; 29 rue equate but not always very clean.
the steps down opposite the entrance and, Grand Hôtel (x031 642201; 2 rue Larbi ben M’Hidi; Abdane Ramdane; s/d/tr B&B DA1000/1500/4100; a) Hôtel Cirta (x031 921980; 1 av Rahmani Achour;
at the bottom, veer left, then turn right onto s/d B&B 615/930) Grand by name but not by na- On the arcaded street that runs down to s DA4300-5600, d DA5200-6000, tr/ste DA5600/8900;
rue Boudjenou passing the Hanatchi Book- ture, this basic hotel, in a colonial-era build- the main square, the family-run Hôtel des pa) Not the city’s finest but certainly
shop on your right and coming into the ing just off the central place 1 Novembre, Princes has the city’s most elegant reception its most atmospheric, the three-star Cirta
122 N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • A r o u n d C o n s t a n t i n e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • B a t n a 123
is a throwback to colonial days. It’s a huge and Annaba. There is also a service to Tunis Excavations began in 1941 but have not take a bus or collective taxi from Constan-
white Moorish building that looms over (DA1600). The larger, eastern SNTV sta- been touched since 1969. tine heading to Jijel, and jump out at the
place des Martyrs. tion at Boussouf, several kilometres from Perhaps it required Roman genius to un- appropriate place, but you are unlikely to
the centre on the road towards Sétif, serves derstand how to develop the site, on the slope find return transport. So if you don’t have
Eating Sétif (DA130), Algiers (DA600), Biskra of a hill near the gorge of Khreneg, carved by a vehicle, the surest way is to arrange a pri-
For a city of such sophistication, Constan- (DA270) and many other destinations. A the same Oued Rhumel that moulded the vate taxi from Constantine. The return trip,
tine has a disappointing selection of restau- taxi from the centre will cost DA100. landscape around Constantine. The Romans including an hour or two at the ruins, is
rants, most of them being little more than arrived during the age of Augustus, but built likely to cost around DA1000.
fast-food joints. The notable exceptions are TAXI much of what can now be seen in the 3rd
the following: Shared taxis leave from beside the SNTV century AD, adapting their fundamental BATNA ‫ﺑﺎﺗﻨۃ‬
x033 / pop 250,000
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
Dar Elsoltane (x031 642256; 23 rue Hamlaoui; mains
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
at Boussouf for Sétif (DA200, two hours), rule of town planning – two straight central
DA300-600) Up a staircase in a narrow alley, Alger (DA900), Bejaia (DA400), Batna streets that cross at the heart of the commu- It may only be a 100km drive from Con-
the ‘Sultan’s House’ is a lot more reputable (DA200) and Bou Saada (DA600) among nity – to the curves of the site. Tiddis had no stantine, but Batna is a world away. Sepa-
than its entrance suggests. It’s still nothing other destinations. You can, in theory, water sources, so one of the most interesting rated from the coastal northeast by a series
to write home about – a good restaurant at also find a shared taxi going to El-Eulma features of the houses here are the channels of salt flats, Batna is the capital of the Aurès
reasonable prices – but given the dearth of (DA150), the jumping-off point for Djem- and cisterns. They were designed to preserve Massif, a continuation of the Moroccan
competition this one stands out. ila, but in reality you may have to charter a the rains that fell, on which the community Atlas Mountains. South of the Aurès, the
o Restaurant Cirta (x 031 921980; 1 av private taxi as there is little demand. depended during the long, hot summers. Sahara begins.
Rahmani Achour; mains DA500-950) In the hotel of From the car park you are greeted by There isn’t much history here: Batna’s
the same name, this is some of the best TRAIN rock, striking red earth and the remains of beginning was its most significant moment,
food in town. A mix of French and Alge- The train station (x031 641988/948831), a short several circular tombs, some of which are created by a decree signed by the Emperor
rian dishes are served with style in a large walk from the end of the Mellah Slimane pre-Roman. The main entrance to the vil- Napoleon III on 12 September 1848. The
Moorish hall, accompanied by a good range Bridge and fronted by a statue of the Em- lage is a classic Roman arch made of mas- reason for its creation is the reason you
of wines. peror Constantine, is really only of use if sive stones. You can still see where the gate might want to visit: it sits at the crossroads
you want the service to Algiers (6.30am and hung and was locked, even this far out into of east–west and north–south trade routes
Shopping 11pm) or Annaba (4.45pm). the countryside. Much of what lies beyond and has good transport links, which makes
Amar Bouldajdj & Frères (x031 947725; 15 rue 19 the gate – houses; sanctuaries to the Roman it a useful base for visiting the Roman site
Juin 1965) Embroidery is valued throughout Getting Around gods Ceres, Vesta and Mithra; a solar god at Timgad.
Algeria, but perhaps nowhere more than in Central Constantine is best visited on foot. of Persian origin; olive presses; and later Ville propre, citoyen propre (clean town,
Constantine. The Bouldajdj brothers have Local buses leave from near the train sta- Christian baptisteries – are little more than clean citizen) is the slogan plastered on bill-
an excellent selection of new embroidered tion, on the east side of the gorge, for both ruins, but there are still fascinating traces to boards around town and it seems to have
clothes, particularly mejboudi (embroi- SNTV stations. There is a yellow taxi rank be seen. The cisterns can still be clearly seen been a successful campaign in most places,
dered, sleeveless, velvet gowns), some of outside Hôtel Cirta, but you can often flag on the upper part of the site: three large ba- because, at least in its centre, Batna is clean
which sell for thousands of dinars. down taxis in the street. sins flowing into each other; between them and tidy. Sitting in the middle of a broad
they could hold some 350,000L of water. On valley at 980m above sea level, it also boasts
Getting There & Away AROUND CONSTANTINE the lower side of the site, the large ‘Villa of good air, though winters are cold and sum-
AIR Tiddis ‫ﺗﻴﺪس‬ Mosaics’ is marked by the pair of columns mers very hot. Batna is going through a
Constantine’s Mohamed Boudiaf Airport (x031 Although it in no way compares to the flanking its entrance, and here you can massive building boom and the centre is
810101; www.egsa-constantine.dz) is 21km from the splendour of Djemila (p132), the Roman make out mosaics, the remains of an olive surrounded by a landscape of concrete
centre near the village of Ain el-Bey and as town of Tiddis (adult/child DA20/10; h 8am-4pm) press, and baths that were later used as a apartment blocks, among them housing for
there is no public transport you’ll need to makes a great day trip from Constantine. pottery. Above the site, but still on the flank the more than 30,000 students attending
go by taxi (up to DA400, depending on the The guardian will appear at your arrival of the hill, there is a cave heated by thermals the city’s thriving university.
time and your negotiating skills). Air Algérie to sell you a ticket and may want you to (which is welcome in winter but you might The centre of town is around the junc-
(x031 927070; www.airalgerie.dz; 1 place des Martyrs & pay for guiding services. Drinks and snacks want to avoid it in summer). The summit of tion of the avs de l’Indépendance and de
36 rue Abdane Ramdane) flies to Algiers, Ouragla, are sometimes available, but you should be the hill is topped with a sanctuary, originally la Révolution.
Oran, Tindouf and Tamanrasset and in sure at least to bring your own water in dedicated to old African gods, rededicated
France to Paris, Lyon, Nice and Marseille. summer. by the Romans to their corn god Saturn, Information
Aigle Azur (x office 031 810186, reservations 021 There was a settlement on this site from appropriate in a place where agriculture was ONAT (x033 804345; 14 allée ben Boulaïd) The state-
642020) flies to Paris, Lyon and Marseille. early times, at least since the Neolithic Ber- so important. owned travel agency for tours and plane tickets.
bers, but it was the Romans who devel- The turn-off to Tiddis is signposted off Timgad Voyages (x033 803888; www.timgad-voy
BUS oped Castellum Tidditanorum, which, as its to the left, 27km north of Constantine along ages.com;1 place de la Liberté & the old gare routière;
Constantine has suffered with the privati- name suggests, was a castellum or fortress, the Jijel road. The site is another 7km from h8.30am-5pm Sat-Wed, 8.30am-3pm Thu) Arranges
sation of bus services. There are two gare one of a series of fortified villages that sur- the sign, along a narrow road, which should guided visits to Timgad. Its office in the old gare routière
routière. SNTV 17 Juin serves destinations rounded the larger settlement at Constan- be drivable throughout the year. There is may also be able to change money.
to the east, including Skikda, Souk Ahras tine (then Cirta) and protected its territory. no public transport to the site. You could Tourist Office (av de l’Indépendance)
124 N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • A r o u n d B a t n a Book accommodation online
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • A r o u n d B a t n a 125
Sleeping 870305; www.airalgerie.dz; rue des Frères Maazouzi) flies dating suggests that it was built earlier, along the important trade route. Lambaesis
BUDGET to Algiers and also direct to Paris, Lyon, Nice perhaps before the 4th century BC, though consisted of a military camp – not unlike
Hôtel es-Salam (x033 556847; 10 av de l’Indépendance; and Marseille. for whom it is not known. Whenever it was a modern military base, with barracks, ar-
s/d B&B DA500/900) One of several cheap hotels constructed, the mausoleum is evidence of a moury, hospital and so on – surrounded by
along the avenue, with a black-tile entrance BUS sophisticated people, influenced by Berbers a wall and watchtowers, and civilian camps
in a white building, the Salam has basic The old gare routière in the centre of town and Libyans, Carthaginians and Greeks, outside the perimeter.
rooms and communal showers. now only handles local buses. The new and who knew how to cut and manipulate The most visible remains of the camp is
Hôtel el-Hayat (x033 804601; 18 rue Mohamed gare routière is several kilometres from the massive stones with great accuracy. the four-sided arch, often called the prae-
Salah Benabbes; s/d B&B DA600/1000) The best of the centre (local bus 5 and 15, DA10, or taxi The mausoleum lies some 34km northeast torium, erected in 268. This massive, two-
budgets, in a modern building between the DA80 to DA100), right on the outskirts of of Batna: heading towards El-Khroub and storey limestone structure, which is 23m by
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
main street and the market, it has rooms the sprawling suburbs. There are regular de- Constantine, the turn-off onto the W165 30m, stood in front of the ancient parade
with showers and heating. partures to most cities in Algeria including is on the right. Public transport (either bus ground and is now less than 100m from the
Hôtel Karim (x033 805181; s/d B&B DA600/1000) Algiers (DA600), Annaba (DA250), Con- or taxi collectif running along the Batna– prison. The amphitheatre, due east a couple
Another long-time favourite, the Karim is stantine (DA100), Sétif (DA100) and Biskra Constantine road) can drop you near the of hundred metres, was built in AD 169 and
well kept and has rooms with a choice of (DA130). turn-off, but it is a long walk and there is could hold up to 12,000 spectators. It was
shower or bath. little local traffic. Unless you have your own quarried by the French to build the prison.
Hôtel el-Mansour (x033 805766; 46 allée ben Bou- TAXI transport you will need a private taxi (around The remains of the town that built up
laïd; s/d/tr B&B DA700/1300/2000) A popular choice Taxis collectifs (shared taxis) leave from the DA1000 including a little waiting time). around the military camp are spread over
up at the top end of the allée near av de parking beside the new gare routière on the a considerable distance. Northeast of the
l’Indépendance, the modern Mansour is outskirts of town. Destinations include Al- Lambèse-Tazoult ‫ﺗﺎزوﻟﺖ‬ amphitheatre lies a large cemetery; archae-
well placed for Batna’s facilities. giers (DA850, eight hours), Annaba (DA450, The road from Batna towards Timgad and ologists were able to piece together some
two to three hours), Constantine (DA200, 1½ Khenchela makes a slight detour around the of the camp’s history from the inscriptions
TOP END hours), Sétif (DA200, two hours) and Biskra modern village of Tazoult, infamous as the they found. South of here, at the edge of
Hôtel Chelia (x033 865334; 2 allée ben Boulaïd; s/d/ste (DA200, one hour). location of a high-security prison, the latest the modern village, the remains of an arch
B&B DA4200/5100/8000; pas) It could just be incarnation of a penitentiary built by the dedicated to Septimus Severus mark the be-
another classic concrete box of past decades, Getting Around French in 1855. But military presence here ginning of the ancient town. Beyond are the
but the four-star Chelia offers a friendly There is a service from the old gare routière, goes back much further than the French be- ruins of baths and a temple to Asclepius, the
welcome, large well-equipped rooms and a in the centre of town, to the airport (but cause all around (and beneath) Tazoult lie god of healing, of which only some stones
reasonable restaurant. It is also the only top- its schedule is uncertain). A taxi from the the remains of a settlement that once served and fragments are standing; the temple was
end hotel in town. Reception can arrange centre will cost around DA500. as the capital of Roman Numidia and was, yet another victim of quarrying – in the 19th
transport for Timgad. for a long time, the partner and sometime century, the entire façade was intact. The
AROUND BATNA rival of nearby Timgad. Lambaesis has dis- nearby capitol, dedicated as ever to the trin-
Eating The Mausoleum of Medracen ‫ﻣﺪﻏﺴﻦ‬ appeared from most itineraries and, if seen ity of Jupiter, Juno and Minerva, is recognis-
There doesn’t seem to be much call for As you approach over the flat farmland, at all by visitors, it is usually glimpsed from able by its pedestal and surviving sections
gastronomy in Batna, but there are a few something vast and cone-topped appears the window of a car or bus as they shuttle of walls and columns, with others laid out
places where you can eat simply and well. over the horizon which you would be for- between Batna and Timgad. in front of it.
Several places serve good grills and rotis- given for thinking is a hill. It is, instead, There was a small army post at Lambae- In the modern village a small museum
serie chicken along allée ben Boulaïd and a mausoleum and one of Algeria’s many sis around AD 81, manned by detachments (adult/student DA20/10; h 9am-noon & 1.30-4.30pm
around the central market, at the end of rue archaeological mysteries. from the Third Legion, properly called Sun-Fri) has a limited but surprisingly rich
Mohamed Salah Benabbes. The mausoleum is 18.5m high and 59m Legion III Augusta. Although the legion collection, the highlights of which include
Pizza Mango Pulp (75 allée ben Boulaïd; pizza around in diameter, and composed of a vast number built a colony at nearby Timgad (p126) mosaics discovered near the arch of Septi-
DA190) Of the many pizza places this is one of of cut stones laid over a rubble core. It is an in AD 100, it built its main military base mus Severus in 1905; the works of sea mon-
the smartest and serves the best thin-crust imposing construction, a circular base with a here in the late 120s, during the reign of sters and of the nymph Cyrene are of very
pizzas. No alcohol, of course. conical roof. It was built out of massive stone the Emperor Hadrian. The legion was the high quality. Statues of the god Asclepius
Restaurant Kimel (x033 852803; 56 av de l’Indé- blocks, the base decorated with 60 columns only Roman force stationed in Numidia and his daughter Hygieia were found in the
pendance; mains DA200-500) This is the fanciest topped with Doric capitals. It was obviously at the time, made up of some 5000 men, temple grounds. If the temple is not open,
place in town (which isn’t saying much). It intended as a royal burial place: there is a all Roman citizens, and their local support look for the guardian in the nearby village.
advertises banquet sur commande (feast on false door and a real, hidden entrance that teams. The Emperor Septimus Severus gave Lambèse-Tazoult is a little over 10km from
command) but can usually be relied upon to leads – via steps to a corridor and then a ce- the legion the title, ‘Faithful Avenger’. The Batna. Buses run to the village of Tazoult from
serve a good steak or roast. darwood door – to the empty burial chamber base at Lambaesis had two functions: the le- Batna. The best way to visit is to drive, or ar-
beyond. gion had responsibility for maintaining the range a taxi (count on DA1000 to DA1500
Getting There & Away Now for the mystery: it was long as- Pax Romana along the Saharan fringe, from for the return ride, depending on how long
AIR sumed this was the burial place of Micipsa, Numidia (southern Algeria) across what is you spend there), and take in Timgad, taking
Aéroport Mostafa Benboulaid (x 033 868543) son of the great Numidian king of Mas- now Tunisia and southern Libya, and it was lunch with you to share with the ghosts of
is 15km from the centre. Air Algérie (x033 syli, who died around 119 BC. But carbon expected to control traffic and collect tax Roman legionnaires.
126 N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • Ti m g a d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • Ti m g a d 127
TIMGAD ‫ﺗﻴﻤﻘﺎد‬ TIMGAD 0

0
200 m
0.1 miles
From the museum a path leads north- and the start of the road to what is now
Nothing in the surrounding area – certainly west to the Great Baths of the North, a huge Khenchela.
nothing in concrete-clad Batna, the jump- public place of some 40 rooms built out- But continue immediately south, across
Post Café
ing-off point 40km away – prepares you Office Museum
side the original camp walls. The baths were the decumanus, to the large open space
for the grandeur of Timgad (adult/child DA20/10; designed symmetrically, with the same la- that was the forum. The street side of the
h8.30am-noon &1.30-5pm Sun-Fri). Even the en- trines, warm and hot rooms on either side forum was taken up with a row of shops
trance is deceptive, a large car park, a line Grand
North
of the complex, leading to a central frigi- and, on your left were the public latrines,
Filadelfis
of trees, a museum and then… an entire Villa
Baths darium, the cold room with an icy plunge a large room with 24 squat holes over an
Roman town. At first sight it may seem just North
Gate
pool and a room off either end for relaxing open drain along which, one hopes, water
a vast field of stones and rubble, but walk after the bath. Just beyond this are the re- constantly flowed. The forum, 50m by 43m
Cardo Maximus
Cathedral
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
around, take the time, inhabit the place, and mains of a large private villa, evidence of and surrounded by limestone Corinthian
Timgad will more than repay the effort. the wealth Timgad enjoyed. Apart from a columns, statues, temple, municipal offices
East
number of good-sized rooms, the owner of and, later a large basilica, would have pro-
Library
History Baths
Mascula
this desirable residence had his own baths, vided some welcome open space in town. It
Whatever happened at this site before AD Trajan's Decumanus Maximus East Gate in the hot room of which once stood the seems also to have inspired an envy-worthy
Arch Market
100 is of little consequence: the story of Sertius Forum
mosaic of Filadelfis (now on show in the sense of well-being because engraved on the
Timgad begins in grand style when the Market museum). steps is the following slogan, Venare, lavari,
Emperor Trajan decided to build a colony Basilica Back towards the museum, the path, ludere, ridere, occ est vivere – hunt, bathe,
Theatre
for soldiers and veterans of his Legion which was once the road to Constantine play, laugh, that is life.
III Augusta. The Colonia Marciana Tra- (then Cirta), continues to the town’s north Due south of the forum, the theatre was
Capitol
iana Thamugadi, to give it its full name, gate. The original Roman town was designed one of Timgad’s civic joys. It was created
is, in the words of the Unesco report that Grand
South
as a perfect square, 355m long on each side, in the 160s by cutting into a hillside and
recommended inscribing it on the World Baths with this gate set into the middle of its north had seating in its rows, for as many as 3500
Heritage list, ‘a consummate example of a wall. From here you’ll hit the cardo max- people. French archaeologists reconstructed
Roman military colony’. imus, the main north–south street, a long most of what we see today; the original was
Timgad was intended to provide ac- straight stretch of chariot-rutted paving that quarried by the Emperor Justinian’s soldiers
commodation for 15,000 in all, but it soon runs uphill to the centre of town. Five metres when they built the nearby fortress in 539.
outgrew that number and moved beyond wide and 180m long, it covered one of the Whatever went on here in antiquity – and
the original grid, with new quarters being main drains and was, in its prime, bordered whatever happens here during the summer
added to the original ground plan over the by colonnaded arcades or porticoes. Timgad festival – the main spectacle for
next 300 years, leading to a quadrupling of The first building on the left inside the visitors today is the great view of the whole
the original camp. During its 2nd- and 3rd- gate was another of Timgad’s 14 baths or site from the ‘gods’, the theatre’s uppermost
century heyday, Timgad stood as a clear ex- spas, while the house next door, one of at seating. From here or from the hill beyond
pression of Roman power in Africa – solid, least a hundred that have been excavated it, you can use our map to identify the major
Byzantine
brilliantly conceived and executed, and Fort here, shows evidence of having been turned monuments, from museum and baths in the
perfectly located at the head of the Oued into a Christian chapel at a later date. The north to the Byzantine fort in the south,
el-Abiod and a crucial junction that gave most interesting building of all along this the southern baths just below you, Trajan’s
Romans control of one of the main passes street lies five insulae or blocks in from the Arch in the west and, in the distance, the
through the Aurès Mountains, and there- only survive with a strong central power north gate, before reaching the centre. De- Aurès Mountains.
fore of access to and from the Sahara. and, with the Arab invasion in the 7th cen- signed in the 4th century reusing an earlier From the theatre it is worth walking
There was a Christian presence at Tim- tury, the end was at hand. The site was structure, this is one of only two known across the pitted path and through the
gad from the mid-3rd century, which abandoned some time in the 8th century. Roman-period public libraries, the other scrub to the fort. The Byzantines chose to
grew to such prominence that a Church being at Ephesus. The most easily recog- build outside the original settlement, on
Council was held here in AD 397. The Ruins nised part of the public library is the book the site of an earlier shrine to the guardian
Vandal invasion of 430 brought an end to The entrance leads to the museum (closed shop, a semicircular room which still shows divinity of a water source. In contrast to
any centralised power and at the end of for renovation at the time of our visit), the niches in which the ‘books’ (actually the original camp of Timgad, which was
the 5th century the region was so weak which contains a particularly impres- manuscript pages or parchment rolls) were never walled, the fort is a massive military
that Timgad was sacked by tribes from the sive collection of more than 200 mosaics. stored. Just beyond here, the cardo ends at structure, 112m by 67m, its limestone walls
nearby Aurès Mountains, the very people Among the masterpieces here is a large a T-junction with the decumanus maximus, 2.5m thick, defended by towers in each cor-
the camp had been designed to control. still life (in the first hall) with panels the town’s main east–west artery. There’s a ner and at the gate. Inside the fort, officers
Timgad was revived in 539 under the showing various foods, The Triumph of great view of rows of columns west along the were quartered on the right, around the
Byzantine Emperor Justinian, when a for- Venus (right-hand room) surrounded by street, and, in the distance, Trajan’s Arch. basin associated with the water deity, and
tress was built outside the original town, a grand decorative border, and the mosaic Eastwards the paved way leads to the east soldiers on the left. The remains of barracks
reusing many blocks from earlier Roman of Filadelfis Vita, in which the god Jupiter baths, completed in AD 146, and the Mascula and many other rooms can be made out
buildings, but this remote outpost could chases Antiope. Gate, which marked the eastern end of town among the overgrowth. The land around
128 N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • S é t i f Book accommodation online
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • S é t i f 129
the fort, like much of Timgad, has yet to be Getting There & Away
fully excavated. Several buses and taxis collectifs run from MAY DAY IN SÉTIF
Returning towards the centre, veer left Batna along the N88 towards Khenchela The date 8 May 1945, also the name given to the main street in town, was a decisive moment
towards the remains of the capitol, easily and Aïn Beida and pass close to Timgad. in Algerian history as the day the War of Independence began. There had long been unrest
identified by two vast columns still stand- The turn-off, on the right, is signposted. The in Algeria over French colonial rule, but things came to a head at the end of WWII. Algerians
ing on its raised platform. The capitol was monuments are a short walk from the turn- had been encouraged to believe that they would earn independence by supporting the Allied
dedicated, like the temple it echoed that off. Returning to Batna might be more dif- fight against fascism. As the war drew to a close, the Algerians realised they had been fooled –
stood in the centre Rome, to the gods Jupi- ficult. Private taxis can be hired for DA500 General de Gaulle gave a speech in Brazzaville (the modern-day Republic of the Congo) announc-
ter, Juno and Minerva. This was the most one way or up to DA1500 return (less if you ing increased legislative power for Algerians, but it did not go far enough.
sacred place of pagan worship and, when can haggle), including some hours’ waiting Messali Hadj, leader of the Algerian People’s Party (PPA), who had been against sacrificing
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
it was completed in AD 160, the most im- time. Algerian lives to further French interests abroad, joined with pro-autonomy groups and religious
pressive, enclosing a larger space than the parties to form a new group, Friends of the Manifesto and Freedom (AML). As tension escalated in
forum, reached by a flight of 28 steps. Lit- SÉTIF ‫ﺳﻄﻴﻒ‬ April 1945, the French deported Messali Hadj to Brazzaville. The AML prepared to march on 8 May to
tle remains beyond the two reconstructed, x036 / pop 215,000 celebrate VE day, for the Allies success in Europe. But in Sétif and Guelma things got out of hand.
14m-high columns and some fragments Algerians keep saying that Sétif is more In Guelma a hardline deputy head of police encouraged colonists and militia to attack local
that have fallen nearby. Lack of perspec- than a convenient stopover en route to the communities. Hundreds, perhaps thousands, were killed. In Sétif where permission had been
tive sometimes makes it difficult to grasp wonders at Djemila: it is a destination in its given for a march, trouble started when police confiscated the PPA flag (now the Algerian flag)
the scale of these buildings, but you can own right, a pleasant town of broad streets and banners demanding the release of Messali Hadj. French soldiers opened fire on the crowd
get an idea of scale by standing beside the and some elegant buildings. The climate is and then chased protesters through the town, committing a number of atrocities. The violence
decorated capitol in front of the pedestal, also a draw: at 1096m above sea level, Sétif spread, local tribes rose and the French used artillery and aircraft to bomb the protestors into
which is more than man-high. manages to stay cooler when the rest of the submission. In the immediate reprisals 102 Europeans are believed to have died. The French
This outer road continues past the ‘new’ country bakes in the summer. Algerians also authorities, who carried out many investigations and inquiries, never released a definitive figure
Sertius market, with its slabs where traders come to remember that this was one of the for the number of dead Algerians, the calculation made more difficult by the fact that many
laid out their wares, to one of Timgad’s centres of resistance against French rule. bodies were immediately burned in lime kilns. French historians have cited 1500 dead Algerians.
major monuments. When it was first built Like many other towns in the region, Algerian sources put the number at 45,000. The actual figure is likely to lie between the two.
Timgad had a western gate much like the Sétif is a Roman creation. Originally known General Duval, who gave the order to open fire on the Sétif crowd, told his superiors in Paris
gates at the other cardinal points. But at as ancient Sitifis, it was founded around AD that he had set the independence movement back 10 years, but that if France did nothing in the
the beginning of the 3rd century, when the 97, during the reign of Roman Emperor meantime the Algerian nationalists would be unstoppable. On 1 November 1954 the nationalists
town had already spread westward beyond Nerva, and was settled with retired Roman began their campaign of violence.
its original grid and was closed by a new soldiers who had seen duty in North Africa. As part of the 1962 independence agreement, signed at Evian in France, no French soldiers
triumphal gate, the original inner gate The colony grew thanks to the success of were ever brought to justice for atrocities committed in Sétif and Guelma.
was replaced by Trajan’s Arch. The soar- the wheat harvest and in the early 300s, as
ing, three-arch pile helps to join the new capital of a region, Mauretania Sitifienne,
town to the old and is the most elegant of was considerably expanded, with an am- Orientation Extérieure d’Algérie across the road from Air
Timgad’s surviving structures. The high phitheatre and hippodrome. Falling to the The French built their town around a cen- Algérie, but its ATM was not accepting for-
central passage was reserved for chariots, Vandals in the 5th century, the town was tral street, the av 8 Mai 1945, which runs eign cards at the time of writing. You can
their passage smoothed along the bumpy retaken by the Byzantines in the mid-6th east–west, to Algiers and Constantine. It change money inside and perhaps also, at
stones by the cutting of guiding grooves. century and enclosed by a high stone wall still holds many of the town’s main offices, worse rates, at the reception of Hôtel el-
The arches either side were for pedes- (p130). The ruins of the ancient town were from the post office and banks to hotels and Rabie. The best rates are to be had on av
trians, who passed beneath a pair of tall still largely visible at the time of the French mosques. One block north lie the remains of Ben Boulaïd, where money changers can
flanking columns and the gaze of imperial conquest, but have since mostly been bur- the Roman city of Sitifis and modern Sétif’s usually be found fanning wads of cash.
statues. ied beneath the urban sprawl. pride and joy, the amusement park and zoo.
The French had the same plans for Sétif as Two blocks south of the main avenue is the POST
Sleeping & Eating the Romans: recognising its strategic value, market, liveliest in the morning. Everything The main post office is a large concrete
There are – or were – two hotels just outside along the main east–west highway and on a in the centre is within walking distance. building on av 1 Novembre, the continu-
the site, the Hôtel Timgad and the Hôtel route from the Sahara to the Mediterranean ation of av 8 Mai 1945, on the eastern side
el-Kahina, but at the time of our visit both coast, they built up a military town and pro- Information of the blvd Filistin intersection and the
were locked. A small bar, just outside the vincial capital where, in May 1945, the war INTERNET ACCESS clocktower roundabout.
entrance to the site, serves drinks and some for independence began (see the boxed text There are several internet places on the
snacks, although the availability of anything ‘May Day’ opposite). Today, Sétif is a con- streets between Ahmed Aggoun and rue TOURIST INFORMATION
more than packets depends on luck and the servative place with a centre that has retained des Frères Meslem. There is neither a tourist office nor an
season – the more visitors, the more likely much of its French-era charm, and around ONAT, but someone at the Direction de
you are to get fed, assuming they haven’t run which the 21st-century city has grown. With MONEY Tourisme on blvd Filistin beyond the mu-
out. As ever, if you worry about not having good hotels and restaurants, it makes an ex- The most useful banks are to be found seum, may be able to help with information
anything to eat or drink, come prepared. cellent base for Djemila, 45km away. along av 8 Mai 1945, including a Banque or general inquiries.
130 N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • S é t i f lonelyplanet.com Book
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • S é t i f 131
SÉTIF 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
a good selection of pieces from the Byzan- always be guaranteed given the proxim-
tine and Fatimid periods, the real stars here ity of this 21-room hotel to the mosque.
4
(and more than enough of a reason to stop Rooms are basic but acceptable, as are the
10
in Sétif) are the mosaics in the ground floor communal showers (DA60). Some rooms
central court. One depicts the Triumph of have air-con. Breakfast is served in the café
7 Venus, a 4th- to 5th-century work showing downstairs. It’s a reliable budget option.
Parc d'Attractions
the goddess sitting in a shell, naked but for Hôtel el-Riadh (x036 843832; 2 rue des Frères
her jewellery, surrounded by monsters and Meslem; s/d/t/q 900/1200/1600/2000) Rooms have
8
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Aïn Fouara & Statue.....................6 A3
Hôtel el-Rabie............................13
Hôtel el-Riadh............................14
A3
C2
cherubs. The masterpiece, however, is the showers and TV, but breakfast is another
Archaeological Museum...............7 C1 Hôtel Mokhtar............................15 B2 Triumph of Dionysos, the theme being a DA70 per person.
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
Hôtel el-Rabie (x 036 845794; place de ‘In-
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
Byzantine Ruins............................8 A1 Hôtel Port Said...........................16 C3 triumphal procession to celebrate the god’s
Entrance to Amusement Park.......9 B2
Zoo............................................10
EATING C1 conquest of India. All sorts of exotic and dépendance; s/d/t B&B DA2800/3276/3500; pa )
Restaurant Mokhtar.................(see 15)
SLEEPING Restaurant Mosaique...............(see 11)
bizarre creature are here including tigers, Immediately in front of the Aïn Fouara
El-Kenz Hôtel ............................11 C2 Restaurant Sétifien.....................17 C3 elephants, camels, lion and the only known fountain, right in the centre of town, El-
Hôtel Djurdura...........................12 C2 Restaurant W11.........................18 B3
9 Roman-period North African portrayal of Rabie has maintained its popularity in spite
R Sai a giraffe. Another section of the same mo- of the arrival of two newer, better-equipped
R des Frèr
d Gu 11 14 12
e n d o uz To Constantine
saic, displayed nearby, shows a wild boar rivals. Rooms are large and well kept, but both
R Ahmed Ag
Blvd de la Pal
2 5
To Le Lisboa (2km); Av 8 Mai 194
Casbah Tours (2km); 1 hunt. Both have an extraordinary subtlety, reception and the restaurant lacked a smile.
es Habbèche
Gare Routière 15
(Bus Station) (2.5km);
Airport (12km); Algiers
3
5
a stunning range of skin colour and tone, Hôtel Mokhtar (x036 843550; 39 av 8 Mai 1945;
17
goun
6
16 muscle definition and facial expression. s/d/t B&B DA3000/3500/4000; pa) Sétif’s newest
estine
R Frères Me
One attraction all Algerian visitors seem hotel, opened in the summer of 2005, is on
Av Ben Boula
13
18 to know about is Aïn Fouara, a fountain that the main street, close to the central foun-
sits in an island in the middle of av 8 May tain. It has well-equipped rooms and good
slem
To Railway
INFORMATION
1945. The fountain is a classic piece of views from the upper floors. The restaurant
id
Station
Air Algérie....................................1 C2
Bank............................................2 C2 French-period urban decoration. The base is also recommended.
Banque Extérieure d'Algérie.........3 C2
Direction de Tourisme..................4 C1 is a large stone fountain, with spouts on El-Kenz Hôtel (x 036 845454; www.hotel-el
Post Office...................................5 D2 four sides, facing the cardinal points. But kenz.com; 10 rue Saïd Guendouz; s/d B&B DA4000/4500;
the real attraction here is the figure of a pa) The Setifis Hôtel, down near the
naked young girl that sits on top. The nude gare routière, has more stars, but the newly-
TRAVEL AGENCIES porcupines, wild boars, foxes, vultures and was carved in 1892 by French artist Francis built Kenz is currently the best hotel in
Casbah Tours (x036 845261; 39 rue Saïd Boukhrissa) an ark-full of other animals are crammed de St Vidal (1866–1911). Legend has it that town. Right opposite the Parc d’Attractions,
into spaces that must contravene interna- he used a young French woman, born in rooms come in a variety of styles, colours
Dangers & Annoyances tional protocols. Most of these creatures Sétif, as his model. The military governor and sizes, some with small balconies, some
Sétif is a calm place, but as everywhere, you were once found in abundance in the wild of Sétif fell for the statue while it was on with bathtubs instead of showers. The res-
are advised to take care of your money and here, as were the zoo’s prize exhibit: a pride display in the Louvre and arranged for it taurant is excellent, the reception helpful
valuables. of lion. And just to show that survival in- to be shipped south. Public nudity seems and management is keen to maintain high
stinct has withstood captivity, a lioness gave strange in the middle of modest Sétif, espe- levels of service.
Sights birth to two cubs in October 2006. The staff cially some 50m from the Grand Mosque,
An amusement park might not be what you cannot be faulted for their enthusiasm. but the statue has become a local treasure Eating
came to Algeria to see (and its attractions Not far from the zoo, on the east side and has acquired a reputation for finding There has been an explosion of pizza
are lame by comparison to any European of the park you can still make out some of husbands for unmarried women. There was places in Sétif and there are a couple of
park), but it is worth walking through here, the scant remains of the ancient town. The outrage in April 1997 when the fountain good ones along rue des Frères Meslem and
if only to marvel at its existence and at the park is still partly enclosed by a stretch of was blown up, but the young lady has since av Ben Boulaïd, south of av 8 Mai 1945.
fact that it is so popular. For while cinemas, Byzantine wall, built when Sétif was retaken been restored to her original glory. Some are no more than a counter selling
bowling alleys and other civic amenities in from the Vandals and before it fell to the pizzas whole (around DA120) or by the
so many northern towns have remained Arabs. There is more history on show at Sleeping slice (DA20). More than a dozen basic res-
closed since the end of the black years of the Archaeological Museum (blvd Filistin; admission Hôtel Djurdjura (rue des Frères Habbèche; s/d DA600/ taurants serve simple grilled meals (up to
sectarian violence, the Parc d’Attractions pulls DA20; h8.30am-noon & 2-5.30pm Sun-Thu, 2.30-5pm Fri 800) Closed for works at the time of our DA400) on rue Saïd Guendouz, facing the
in the pundits. The park is a large open Apr-Aug, 8am-noon & 2-5pm Sun-Thu, 2.30-5pm Fri Sep- visit, the long-established Djurdjura, in a Parc d’Attractions. The restaurants listed
space of gardens, cafés, and booths sell- Mar) and although locals may not be aware side street near the park, provides standard below serve more substantial meals. Most
ing CDs. In the centre, there is a boating of its existence, it is worth seeking out this budget rooms, without showers and, for the will close for Friday lunch, the exception
lake, dodgem, big wheel and various other bunkerlike building, fronted with canons, moment, without a phone. being the smarter hotels.
amusements, which really come into their because although small, it holds a couple Hôtel Port Said (x036 843810; 6 av Ben Boulaid, Restaurant Mokhtar (x036 843550; 39 av 8 Mai
own in summer. There is also a zoo (adult/child of treasures. As well as cabinets filled with s/d/tr/q DA700/1000/1500/1800; a) Comfort and 1945; mains DA400-700) A small 1st-floor restaurant
DA20/10; h9am-5pm), a place where camels, pottery and lamps from Roman Sétif, and calm are promised, but the quiet may not with bright lights and little atmosphere, but
132 NORTHEAST ALGERIA •• Djemila lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • D j e m i l a 133
it has attentive service and some excellent Paris. Aigle Azur (www.aigle-azur.fr) flies to perhaps even more than in the great Libyan now known as the Christian quarter, with
cooking from a diligent chef. Daily specials Paris, Marseille and Lyon and, at certain sites of Leptis Magna or Sabratha, you can its chapels, baptistery and basilicas.
are announced on a board outside. times of year, to Bordeaux and Toulouse. It come closer to understanding the Roman The Vandal army reached here in 431
Restaurant Sétifien (x036 925066; 8 rue des doesn’t have an office in town, but its Al- aesthetic: the marriage of order and beauty. and the town easily fell. The Vandals moved
Frères Meslem; mains DA500-800) On a street of gerian reservation number (x021 642020) It is, as the French writer Albert Camus ob- on in 442 and the area was retaken by
pizza takeaways, the Sétifien serves a range is open for reservations 8am to 6pm from served, ‘a lesson in love and patience’. the Byzantines in the first half of the 6th
of salads, fish and French-style meat dishes, Saturday to Thursday. century, but abandoned on the eve of the
including kidneys. It also has a licence to There is no airport bus. A taxi will cost History Arab invasion of North Africa, after which
serve alcohol. DA250 for the 40-minute ride (could be Djemila’s early history is lost, but it was Cuicul – which the Arabs later called Djem-
Restaurant Mosaique (x036 845454; www.hotel longer if there is much traffic at the town- occupied by Berber tribes in the early cen- ila (beautiful) – sank into obscurity.
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
-elkenz.com; 10 rue Saïd Guendouz; mains DA600-800) limits roadblock). turies BC. The surviving town can trace its Soon after the French conquest of Al-
The Mosaique is tucked away in the base- origins only as far back as the 1st century geria, attention was turned to the antiqui-
ment of El-Kenz Hôtel, so it’s a good place BUS AD, during the brief reign of the Roman ties: the Duc d’Orleans hatched a plan to
for lunch on a hot summer, or a cold winter The gare routière (x036 842140) is a couple Emperor Nerva (96–98). As well as the new dismantle Caracalla’s monumental Arch
night – it snows here most years. The menu of kilometres from the centre, at the end colony at nearby Sétif (p128), Nerva or- and reassemble it in Paris. Although that
is mostly French and generally comforting, of av Saïd Boukhrissa, in the direction of dered that some veteran soldiers from the plan was dropped, some sculptures were
including grilled swordfish and rolled veal. Algiers. Sétif has good services across the Legion III Augustan, the same who were to shipped to France in the 1840s, intended
Service is sharp, the TV is usually on and country, with regular departures to Algiers found Timgad a few years later, be settled for an Algerian museum in Paris that never
fellow diners tend to be discreet. (DA350, six hours), Constantine (DA120), at a place then known by its Berber name, came to fruition.
Le Lisboa (x 036 815630; Cité Hachemi; mains Ghardaia (DA600, 14 hours), Oran (DA700, Cuicul. The site was excavated relatively late; work
DA600-900) A taxi ride from the centre, the 15 hours) and elsewhere. There are also sev- The site had advantages and disadvan- started in 1909 and immediate progress was
Lisboa is run by an Algerian-Portuguese eral buses a day to El-Eulma, the turn-off tages. The biggest advantage was its po- made. In the first year the northern part of
husband-and-wife team who serve dishes for Djemila. sition, 900m above sea level on a spur of the House of the Donkey, the temple and
from both countries and can usually be re- land created by two mountain rivers, the the Severan forum were discovered. The
lied upon to have wine. TAXI Guergour and Betame, surrounded by roll- main streets were uncovered and mosaics
o Restaurant W11 (x 036 820909; 11 rue When full taxis collectifs leave from beside ing hills. The hilly stronghold was easy to removed from the House of Amphitrite in
Ahmed Aggoun; mains DA700-1000) The political the gare routière, on av Said Boukhrissa, defend. The main disadvantage was the ir- 1912. The old forum was revealed between
complexities of running a restaurant-bar for Algiers (DA600), Constantine (DA200), regularity of the spur – the classic Roman 1913 and 1915. In 1917 the grand baths,
in a town as conservative as Sétif mean that Ghardaia (DA1000), Oran (DA1200) and townplan was a square, bisected by two theatre and cardo were excavated. Work
W11 may well be closed by the time you elsewhere. broad streets, the cardo and decumanus finally stopped in 1957.
get there. But ring the bell anyway because maximus, but here it had to be turned into But much remains and is in need of
the staff sometimes locks the door to deter TRAIN an irregular triangle to fit. attention. The extremely knowledgeable
drunks. The smoke-filled upstairs bar is The train station is on the east side of town, The early years were some of the best: and friendly M Mohand Akli Ikherbande,
popular with locals in the early evening, just walkable from the centre. The SNTF Cuicul took shape under the Antonine conservator of the museum, is unequivo-
while the ground-floor restaurant goes runs to Algiers (2nd class DA520) and An- emperors – this was when the forum, the cal about threats to the site. A brief look
on later, serving Mediterranean cooking naba (2nd class DA440). There are usually curie (town hall), market, capitol and other around shows up the problems: even the
with plenty of fresh seafood and grilled two departures a day in either direction. temples and even the theatre were built. mosaics removed from houses into the
meat, prepared with a flair often missing Growth continued under the Severan em- museum for safekeeping are falling off
elsewhere in town. The owner is usually Getting Around perors (AD 192–235), themselves of North the walls. Whether the Algerian authori-
there, shaking hands, checking food, sug- The only local bus you are likely to need African origin, and Cuicul outgrew its ties will provide necessary funds before
gesting drinks. Music is soft and the range runs from the gare routière to several places original enclosure wall – new roads were these and other treasures are lost remains
of Algerian wine and foreign spirits more in the centre. There is a taxi rank just off av 8 laid out, the great temple to the Severan to be seen. But with Djemila inscribed on
interesting. May 1945, a few metres from the fountain. family built, the nearby baths plumbed, and Unesco’s World Heritage list as ‘one of the
a new forum was built outside the original world’s most beautiful Roman ruins’, it
Getting There & Away DJEMILA ‫ﺟﻤﻴﻠۃ‬ town. But even with these developments, would be a matter of national shame and
AIR A highlight of Algeria (and of North Africa Cuicul was never a grand city: its grandeur international scandal were this to happen.
Sétif’s airport (x036 933140) is 12km west for that matter), the remarkable World Her- lies in the location and in the arrangement In August 2006 the president of Algeria
of town. The new passenger terminal was itage site of Djemila is all that remains of the of stone buildings in such an unrestricted was patron of the 2nd International Festival
opened in 2006 amid some confusion, as ancient Roman town of Cuicul. Tucked into landscape. of Djemila, a nine-day celebration of Alge-
domestic and international passengers were the strikingly beautiful Petite Kabylie hills, Christianity came to Cuicul in the 3rd rian music held at the site.
being mixed together, with the result that some 40km inland from the Mediterranean, century – the first bishop, Pudentianus, was
people heading to Algiers found themselves Djemila is one of the most perfect expres- first mentioned in AD 255. By the begin- Ruins
being searched by customs officials. sions of the meeting of Roman power and ning of the 4th century the town, perhaps Djemila (x 036 945101; adult/student DA20/10;
Air Algérie (x036 919292, reservations 036 936406; African beauty. Here, more than almost any- now with some 12,000 inhabitants, had h9am-noon & 1.30-5.30pm) is small enough to
13 av 8 May 1945) flies direct to Algiers and where else this side of the Mediterranean, spread up the hill and developed what is allow you to walk around the entire site
134 N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • D j e m i l a lonelyplanet.com Book
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • D j e m i l a 135
DJEMILA 0 100 m piece – one of the greatest North African capitals. Originally it was graced with stat- hold traders and others found to be cheat-
mosaics – is of the Legend of Dionysos, ues of the emperor and his parents, Septi- ing. The arches and vaults are impressive
brought from the House of Bacchus and mus Severus and Julia Domna. This was the and the place is still evocative.
Capitol now in the third hall. The mosaic shows town’s west gate and, at 12.5m high, it made Heading back south across the forum
Market of
Cosinius four scenes in the legend of Dionysos: being an imposing entrance for people coming and up towards the place des Sévères, as
Old
Forum nursed by the nymph Nysa; being carried from Sétif and beyond. The arch was dis- you leave the original town walls, with the
on a tiger; an offering made at a cult festi- mantled by the Duc d’Orleans in 1839, remains of the public granary on your left,
Ca
rd
val in winter; and an initiation scene dur- ready to be shipped to Paris, but when the take the path to the left of the Temple of the
o
Ma
ing which a woman turns her head from a duke died three years later the project was Severan Family. This will lead past a Latin
xim
phallus. The mosaic’s central panel shows scrapped. The arch was reconstructed in inscription declaring that Julius Crescens
us
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
another scene from the Dionysos myth in 1922. Immediately to the north of the arch and the executor of his will, Caius Julius
which the nymph Ambrosia is murdered by was a fabric market, built in the 360s, and Didius Crescentianus, built an arch here
Pl des Sévères King Lycurgus. The design and execution a public latrine. Across the expanse of the decorated with statues of Fortune and of
Temple of
Arch of Severan Family suggest the level of sophistication achieved square stands the Temple of the Severan Fam- Mars, the colony’s protecting deity. As
Caracalla New
Basilica
Theatre in ancient Djemila. Also in this last room is ily. Reached by a grand staircase, fronted the path suddenly drops down towards
Forum
a 4th- to 5th-century mosaic of men on foot by rows of massive Corinthian columns, the deep valley, it leads to the theatre, cut
and horse, hunting lion, boar and panther – this early-3rd-century building is one of into the hillside in the 2nd century. The
Fountain note the kneeling hunter levelling his spear Cuicul’s most prominent landmarks, just theatre was placed outside the original walls
at a leaping lion. In the cabinets, a range of as Septimus Severus would have wanted it. to avoid jams for the 3000 people who at-
Christian
Quarter objects found at the site, including medi- The statues of the emperor and his wife, on tended plays and other performances.
Grand Baptistry cal instruments, door locks, jewellery and display in the museum, were found here. The Christian quarter lies at the southern,
Baths
pottery objects, help to give an idea of how Across the square, the cardo maximus upper end of the town, the furthest from the
House of life was lived. Also worth taking in here is enters the old wall and into the original original enclosure walls. At the centre of the
Bacchus
the scale model of the ruins, which gives a settlement. A building on the right, marked Christian community was a group of Epis-
useful overview of what is to come. with a phallus, has often been mistaken as copal buildings: two basilicas, a baptistery
From the museum, ignore the path be- a brothel, an unlikely attribution: brothels and chapel. The baptistery is the most eas-
To Museum tween the trees (which will bring you to would have been placed in less central lo- ily identified beneath a dome constructed
the later Christian quarter) and cross the cations. Rather than being a shop sign, the by archaeologists to preserve the mosaics
meadow directly to the ruins. This will phallus is more likely to have been a totem, that adorn the floors. The building is often
comfortably in half a day. But spend longer bring you to the end of the later extension a good-luck charm to bring fertility or locked, but can be visited (you may need
here, linger in the temples and markets, of the cardo maximus. This street, which wealth. The cardo then leads past a row of to ask at the museum). Beside it are baths,
stroll through the bath chambers, or just runs north–northwest, crosses the centre large houses and through an arch to the old perhaps for religious purification, and the
lie down on one of the pavements or in the of Djemila. Passing a series of houses, after forum, a paved area, 48m by 44m. Originally northern basilica, a 6th-century building
shade of villa walls (as a number of locals some 50m you will pass on the left the Grand lined with porticoes, it was flanked by three where services were held immediately after
were doing during our visit); the magic will Baths, built in AD 183 during the reign of of the town’s most important buildings: the baptisms. This building was linked by a cor-
be felt and this unique place will be better Emperor Commodius. These were designed curia, a basilica that served as town hall; and ridor to the larger basilica of Cresconius,
understood. along a symmetrical plan where a double- the capitol, the central temple dedicated to named after the bishop whose name was
The museum is to the left on entering the sided exercise room leads to two changing Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. Little remains to celebrated on a large mosaic, now in the
site and, as ever, is best visited before the rooms and then on to the hot, tepid and distinguish these buildings, although there museum. Forty metres long, its central nave
ruins. At quiet times, it is kept locked, but cold rooms. The baths are well preserved is a fascinating stone altar with a scene of lined with elaborately topped columns, its
will be opened if you ask at the entrance and below floor level, beyond the hot room, animal sacrifice carved on its side. floor covered in mosaics, this basilica seems
to the site. Outside the museum build- you can see where fires were stoked to pro- There is more to be seen in the Market to have been the last significant structure
ing there are many tombstones and other vide heat. Water was stored in cisterns of Cosinius, which is lined with tables on built in Cuicul, presumably after the Byz-
funerary sculptures, the outer walls lined along the north side. Immediately to the which traders spread their wares. There is antines had re-established themselves in
with mosaics salvaged from the site, the south of the baths is the House of Bacchus, plenty of decorative carving to be spotted as North Africa, a last flourish before the
covered court housing busts of the emperor a grand mansion built around the begin- you walk around this delightful enclosure, town died.
Septimus Severus and his wife, Julia Domna. ning of the 5th century, with two gardens which makes it easy to imagine how it must
The mosaics, which line most of the inte- and a pool which served as the household have been when the stalls were full of ol- Sleeping & Eating
rior walls, are more impressive. Among the fish tank. ives, wheat, hunks of meat, fish from across The modern village of Djemila has little to
treasures here are a mosaic showing a hunt- Continuing north past a ruined fountain the hills and whatever else Roman Cuicul detain visitors.
ing scene; the 10m-long so-called Mosaic of (on the left), the cardo comes into the place fancied for dinner. Also here is a carved Hôtel Belle Vue (x036 945110/070 920529; s &
the Donkey, which shows a huge range of des Sévères (Square of the Severus family), stone that shows how weights and meas- d B&B DA1500) This very pleasant hotel, just
local animals; and the inscription of Bishop the centrepiece of the extended town. Im- ures were checked. Immediately below the outside the gates of the ancient town, has
Cressonius, a statement of faith lifted from mediately to the left is the Arch of Caracalla, market, but entered from the cardo, there is eight rooms around a vine-covered court-
the floor of the South Basilica. The master- decorated with columns and Corinthian a subterranean prison, presumably used to yard, as well as heating, communal showers
136 N O R T H E A S T A L G E R I A • • D j e m i l a lonelyplanet.com
and toilets. Until tourism picks up, and There is a direct bus from Sétif, but it is
whether you are staying in the hotel or not, infrequent and irregular. The easiest way
you need to call a day or two ahead if you of getting to Djemila is by changing at El-
want to be sure of something to eat. A full Eulma. There are regular bus and collective
meal of salad, meat or chicken and dessert taxi services to El-Eulma along the main
will cost DA800 to DA1500. Constantine–Sétif road. There is a bus from
You can also buy food in town and picnic there to Djemila but you will be spending
among the ruins (being sure to leave no your time better by continuing by taxi. One
rubbish behind you). way by private taxi over the 30km from
El-Eulma to Djemila should cost around
Getting There & Away
NORTHEAST ALGERIA
DA500. Expect to pay more than double if

Unless you are going to stay at the Hôtel you want the driver to wait. Returning from
Belle Vue, Djemila is most easily visited El-Eulma, there is more chance of a collec-
as a day trip from Constantine or Sétif. tive taxi to Sétif than Constantine.
137
Northwest Algeria
It has rolling hills, fertile farmland, some glorious – and gloriously uncrowded – beaches,
big ports, and towns embellished with reminders of the region’s glorious past, yet the
northwest is the least visited region of northern Algeria.
Oran, the capital of the northwest, is Algeria’s most important port and naval base. Home
to pirates and princes, fought over by the Spaniards and Ottomans, and rebuilt in grand
style by French colonialists, Oran today is a lively Mediterranean city with a distinctive
character that sets it apart from Algiers.
The northwest also contains some of Algeria’s richest farmland, particularly around
Tlemcen, which in part explains why that town became the capital of the Maghreb, this
part of northern Africa, in the 14th century. The region has also long been noted for its
grapes and it was here that French colonists based their winemaking, a tradition that con-
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
tinues today – the best of Algeria’s considerable selection of cuvées come from around
Tlemcen and the area south of Oran.
Outside of Oran the pace is slow and the sight of foreign visitors less expected. Tlemcen
contains the best of the sights, both in town and on the heights above it. The coast from
the Moroccan border to Oran has some of the Mediterranean’s most unspoiled beaches,
with beautiful coves and large swaths of sand, although significant coastal developments
are being planned as Algeria – and the northwest – gears up to attract more visitors.
HIGHLIGHTS
Take in the royal view from the ruined sultan’s palace in Tlemcen and then visit the
neighbouring tomb of the revered mystic Sidi Boumediene (p149)
Be moved by the beat of rai in the place of its birth – if you can’t be there to join the crowds
at the August festival, head to one of Oran’s nightclubs at Ain el-Turck (p145)
Stretch out on the pristine beaches (p142) along the coast west of Oran – the further you
head, the more likely you will have the place
to yourself
Have a quiet moment in the Grand Mosque
(p148) of Tlemcen, one of the Maghreb’s most
impressive religious buildings Oran
Stroll around the casbah and old town of

Oran (p139) for a taste of its pirateering days
Tlemcen
138 N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A • • O r a n 139
History History
El-Asnam
100 km
There’s a strong Moroccan influence in the Humans settled around the broad sweep
Ammi-moussa
northwest, which is unsurprising consider- of the Mers el-Kebir bay 100,000 years ago,
Tiaret
50 miles
Ain Kermes
ing its location up against the Moroccan but the story of Algeria’s second city really
border. Under Roman rule the northwest starts when it became the port of Tlemcen.
Rahouia
Frenda
Oued Rhiou
was farmed intensively, and the region’s Andalusian traders started using the har-
main town at the time, Pomaria (modern- bour in the 10th century. Spanish soldiers
La Guelta
Sidi Mohammed
day Tlemcen), was a stopover along the conquered it in 1509 and held it intermit-
el-Hadid
Zemmora
Ain
Ben Ali
south Mediterranean coastal road. When tently until 1792. The Spanish built fortifi-
Arab armies swept through the region in cations that remain some of the city’s most
the 7th century during their conquest of prominent landmarks today. The city was
el-Khadra
el-Abtal
Oued
Ain
North Africa and Spain, they were merely fought over by the Spaniards and Ottoman
Picard
following the Roman – and pre-Roman – Turks throughout the 18th century and lost
road. A few centuries later Berber armies much of its importance in the process. Its
Ighil-
izane
Tighennie
arrived from the west and left a lasting prospects were made worse in 1790 when
Yellel
Moroccan influence that can still be seen it was hit by an earthquake so large that
0
0
in the buildings of Tlemcen. Nineteenth- tsunamis battered the Spanish coast. Oran’s
century French colonists, who had dif- fortunes revived from 1831, when French
Mascara
Mohammadia
ferent priorities, recognised that the soil colonists began to develop the port and to
Charrier
and location were ideal for vines and build a large naval base in the harbour of
Saida
the area remains Algeria’s centre of wine Mers el-Kebir. Under French control Oran
Mostaganem
production. became a departement of France and one of

0º
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
France’s largest cities, a cosmopolitan place
Dangers & Annoyances of whitewashed houses, broad avenues and
Sfisef
Northwest Algeria has seen less violence grand civic buildings. At the outbreak of
recently than the northeast. Neverthe- WWII the Mers el-Kebir naval base was
Arzew
less, at the time of writing several foreign home to a significant squadron of French
governments continued to advise against battleships. When France surrendered to
International
Sidi-bel-abbes
Le Telagh
travelling in the area west of the Massif de the Germans in 1940, British forces at-
Es-Sénia
Tafraoui
Airport
Ouarsensis, particularly around Relizane tacked the French fleet to stop it falling to
Oran
el-Kebir
and Mascara, and the area south of Blida, the Germans, killing 1300 French sailors in
Mers
Magenta
Ras el-Ma
especially near Medea. the action. Almost half of Oran’s popula-
tion left after independence.
el-Turck
Boussidi
ORAN ‫وﻫﺮان‬
Sidi Ali
Ain
Ouled Mimoun
x041 / pop 1.5 million Orientation

Ain Temouchent
Ben Badis
Algeria’s second city is a lively port with The oldest part of town, the casbah, sits just
Les
Andalouses
1ºW
plenty of history and a lot of rhythm. above the old port, with its back to 400m
El-Amria
Yet here, more than in Algiers, the con- high Djebel Murdjadjo and the Spanish-built
sequences of the violence of the 1990s fort of Santa Cruz. With each development
Tlemcen
Sebdou
and the subsequent government neglect the city has spread to the east and south,
MEDITERRANEAN
Beni-saf
are plain to see, and every ship that sails lining the bay. The colonial French city with
Remchi
Zenata
SEA
north to Europe is watched by hundreds its boulevards of whitewashed buildings sits

Aeroport
of people. Many of them long to make above the more modern, eastern port. To
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
Messali
el-Hadj
the journey to what they believe will be the south of the French city, modern blocks
a better life, perhaps hoping to emulate spread far back into the interior. To the east
Oran’s most famous émigré, fashion de- the new Sheraton hotel, built on a rise over-
Nedroma
Ghazaouet
signer Yves Saint Laurent. Albert Camus, looking the sea, serves as a useful marker.
Maghnia
who found the city dull and dusty when The place du 1 Novembre still serves as a
Oujda
he lived here in the 1940s, used it as the focal point, while the front de mer (water-
Guenfouda
setting for his novel The Plague. But for front), known locally as the balcony, attracts
all its problems, Oran is still fascinating, crowds in the evening. The parallel streets
2ºW
MOROCCO
a city with a sense of its own history and of rue Mohamed Khemisti and rue Larbi
culture, which has contributed much to ben M’hidi are the main shopping streets.
M'hidi
Marsa
Ahfir
ben
the world, not least North Africa’s liveliest Albert Camus lived at 65 rue Larbi ben
36ºN
music movement, rai. M’hidi, above what is now Boutique Warda.

140 N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A • • O r a n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A • • O r a n 141
ORAN 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
Information TOURIST INFORMATION
BOOKSHOPS Association Bel Horizon (x061 210714; www.oran
A B MEDITERRANEAN C D El-Maaref (x066 640972; 10 rue Larbi ben M’hidi) A -belhorizon.com) A local organisation promoting the city’s
Breakw
ater SEA
helpful bookshop tucked into an arcade along this busy shop- history and culture. It publishes books and CD-ROMs about
ping street, which can usually get hold of Institut National de the city.
1 Cartographie maps of Algerian cities within 24 hours. Office de Tourisme (x06 395130; 4 rue Mohamed
Khemisti) Has some city maps (though not necessarily of
CULTURAL CENTRES Oran) and basic tourist information.
ὈὈὈ
Ὀ
Centre Culturel Français (CCF; x041 403541; www
.ccf-oran.com; 112 rue Larbi ben M’hidi; h9am-noon & TRAVEL AGENCIES
Fishing
Harbour
Port
1.30-8pm Sun-Thu) The CCF is particularly active, with a ONAT (x298210, 393106; 10 blvd Emir Abdelkader) This
Pecherie library, a selection of French newspapers and magazines, state-run organisation runs tours and can arrange both
To Djebel Murdjadjo; Fort &
Church of Santa Cruz (2km); and regular performances of music and theatre. It also domestic and international plane tickets.
Ain el-Turck (12km);
Les Andalouses (14km); shows films each Monday and Thursday. Touring Voyages Algérie (x041 598078; www
ὈὈὈ
Ὀ
2 Madagh (16km)
Instituto Cervantes (x041 409730; 22 rue Médécin .touringvoyagesalgerie.dz; 5 blvd de la Soummam)
Belhoucine; h9am-1pm & 1.30-4.30pm Sat-Wed) Proof Zenata Voyages (x041 391227; www.zenatavoyages
R Ra Blvd Lahcen
e Mimouni
of Spain’s continuing influence in Oran, the Instituto holds .com; 24 Blvd Tripoli) Offer a similar service to ONAT.
hma
R F ni K
rè res Dahi Youc haled
Spanish courses, has a library and organises music, literary
ef Promenade Ibn
Badis and theatrical events. Dangers & Annoyances
24 28 As well as the usual precautions, care should
Ὀ
EMERGENCY be taken when walking in the area around
j
11 ibération
rad
de L
ée
Ambulance (x041 403131)
Far
Blvd
de I'
A rm the casbah. Oran has a large number of un-
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
10
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
Cdt
Pl Boudani
13
a
Police (x17) employed people and tension does rise in
3 ar
R
Casbah Hasni m the street. In the summer it can get very

e
Boutkh
tar
de
ab na
mp
i Med er
r
Be okh
sS
Ra
R Safr Gu INTERNET ACCESS crowded – and the noise in the centre of the
ali M
oe
R
R Sidi Lahouari
Must Khedim
To Zenata
ur
1
il
Blvd Frères
sB
R Meh
Voyages (50m)
Internet cafés are opening all over the city can continue late into the night.
apha
et
9
en
am
ar
sli
m
h im Tazi 31 m
Blvd
Bra um
kh
centre, one of the best being El-Menzah Cyber

m
i 8
So
an
Ta
Sid 25
e
27 la 23
R
INFORMATION
R Pl du 1
Novembre
30
20 Blv
d
de 2
26 emisti
Space (3 rue Pomel; DA60 per hour; h9am-2am Sat- Sights
7 ier
ham ed Kh Thu, 2pm-2am Fri), with good connection speeds Most of Oran’s attractions are to be found
Banque Centrale d'Algérie.......1 C3 Ram
14 18 Rue 5 R Mo
Crédit Populaire d'Algérie........2 C3
and a nice air-con room near Cinema Lynx. within walking distance of each other and
Blv
29
ib
Cyber Web..........................(see 15)

d
Pl du
Em
b
Cyber Web (du Magreb place; DA50 per hr; 9am-11pm part of the pleasure on offer here is the
l-Ha
El Maaref.................................3 C4 6 Magreb
ir
To Centre
amm ata
'hidi
Ab
Hospital................................... 4 D6 i ben M Culturel Français (300m);

R B amid
Sat-Thu, 2pm-11pm Fri), beside the Grand Hôtel, scenes glimpsed as you wander.
ed a
15 R Larb
Moh Blvd M
de
H
El Menzah Cyber Space;

en a
Main Post Office.....................5 C4

lka
sen
4 Patisserie Algéroise &

also has fast connections.
de
Office de Tourisme..................6 C4 17
ou
3 Cinema Lynx (500m);

r
ci
ONAT......................................7 B4 21 Sheraton Oran (3km)

Société Générale d'Algérie.......8 C3 PLACE DU 1 NOVEMBRE
22
Touring Voyages Algérie..........9 C3
Cathedral MEDICAL SERVICES Oran’s main square, the place du 1 Novem-
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Civil Hospital (x041 343311, 343316; 76 blvd bre, is the definitive expression of French
Bl
To USTO Bus
vd
Bey's Palace...........................10 B3
R Aspt Ramou Mok Station (2km) Benzerdjeb) rule in Oran. The city’s main meeting place
Dr
Chateau Neuf.........................11 B3 htar

Ba
Musée National Ahmed (called place Napoleon, place d’Armes and

nz
Rue Mar 16
a
cel Cerd
rd
Zabana.............................. 12 C6 Blv an MONEY place Maréchal Foch at various times in its

jeh
Pasha's Mosque.....................13 B3 dM Market

Town Hall..............................14 B4 ell
ah
Al
Train
Station
There are a growing number of ATMs, but history), it has a baroque theatre on one side
i
only the Crédit Populaire d’Algérie (blvd de la Sou- and the town hall on the other. In the mid-
Blv
SLEEPING 19
d
5 mmam) accepts foreign bank cards and even dle of the square stands an obelisk topped
Z
Grand Hotel...........................15 C4 Blv

Yo
Hotel Khalid...........................16 D5 dD
us
ido
uch that is not guaranteed, although you can with a Winged Victory, erected by French
se
Hôtel Montparnasse..............17 C4 eM
f
our
Hotel Montparnasse...............18 B4 ad also withdraw cash on a Visa card during sculptor Dalou in 1898. The original work
Blvd Zabana
Hôtel Riad............................. 19 D5
Hotel Royal............................20 B4
To Airport
(18km) banking hours. Banque Centrale d’Algeŕie commemorated the French soldiers who
Hôtel Timgad.........................21 C4 and Société Générale d’Algérie (both on died at the battle of Sidi-Brahim in 1845.
EATING 12 blvd de la Soummam) change money, the After independence the French sculpture
Grand Café Riche.................. 22
La Voile d'Or.........................23
C4
D3
latter also running a Western Union money was replaced by busts of the Sufi saint Mou-
Le Corsaire.............................24 A3 transfer service. You may be able to change lay Abdelkader. The town hall, which Camus
Restaurant Cintra...................25 C3 4 foreign currency on the street near the Main thought pretentious, has a magnificent onyx
6 post office on rue Mohamed Khamisti. staircase and restored painted ceilings (you
DRINKING SHOPPING
Club Sevilla............................26 C4 Abdallah Benmansour............29 C4
can usually walk in if the door is open). It’s a
ENTERTAINMENT TRANSPORT POST & TELEPHONE short walk from here to the Promenade Ibn
Theatre..................................27 B3 Air Algérie..............................30 B3
Théâtre du Verdure...............28 C3 ENTMV..................................31 C3 To Hemri Bus Station Main post office (rue Mohamed Khemisti) Sells stamps Badis, the front de mer, created in 1847 with
(500m); Stade 19 Juin (1km)
and also phonecards for public phones. excellent views of the port and old town.
ὈὈὈ
142 N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A • • O r a n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A • • O r a n 143
MUSÉE NATIONAL AHMED ZABANA ceilings, restored in 2002 and already peel- ORAN WALKING TOUR 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
The main museum is little-visited by for- ing. The two-storey bey’s residence is now
Ὀ
R Ra
eigners, but the Musée National Ahmed Zabana in danger of collapse. The Pasha’s Mosque (rue R Frè
res Dahi Youcef
hma
ni K R Bendahmane
Med
hale
(x041 403781; 19 blvd Zabana; admission adult/student Benamara Boutkhil; hvisits to the mosque are possible d
Promenade Ibn
DA20/10; h8.30am-noon & 1.30-5pm Sat-Thu) is one out of prayer times.), below the western side of 7 Badis
of the keys to understanding the city, al- the Chateau Neuf, was built in 1797, as its
though the collection doesn’t always live up foundation inscription attests, by ‘the great, Chateau Neuf
to the grandeur of the building. A large 1st- the elevated, the respectable and useful, our
ὈὈ
Spanish Gate
floor room tells the local story of the battle master Sidi Hassan Bacha’. In better condi-
R Meftah Kouider
j
rad
for independence, most moving being the tion than the palace, it reflects in its elegance 6
Far
2
list of local people executed by the French and lightness the joy at the city’s liberation 5
Cdt
between 1954 and 1962. The extensive, ne- from foreign rule.
pe
Pl Boudani
Ram
glected natural history collection includes ine Hasni
a
ar
ed 3
m
RM
na
giant lobsters and calamari and, in the base- DJEBEL MURDJADJO Med
House of
Boutk
Be
i b 4 Si Hassan
R Safr rra
ὈὈ
R
r
ment among the stuffed animals, a shark, Wherever you are in the city, there’s no Gu
e hta
hil
k
ali Mo
Blvd Frères
all caught in the bay. More interesting are missing Murdjadjo, the wooded hill that
pha
Tomb of
the ancient sculptures, some good mosa- dominates the skyline, and the best view of
R Meh
Sidi Houari
usta
ics and terracotta portraits. The paintings the city is from the plateau. Getting there
im M
et zi
ar Ta
are more surprising, being a mix of works will be considerably easier when the funicu- m him
Khed
Theatre
kh ra
R Sidi Lahouari
Ta B
by 20th-century Algerian artists, French lar is working. Until then, taxi is the only R Sidi 1
Blvd
R
Orientalists including Eugene Fromentin way. The most obvious landmark is the fort
and some 18th-century studies of mythical of Santa Cruz, built by Spaniards in the late
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
Blv
Town
subjects. 16th century and closed for renovation at
d
Hall
Em
amed
the time of our visit. The nearby Church of
ir
ib
Ab
b
tion
l-Ha
de
i Moh
BEY’S PALACE & PASHA’S MOSQUE Santa Cruz was built to commemorate the
amm ata
lka
olu
ed a
de
Moh Blvd M
Rev
Much of the area around the headland over- end of the 1849 cholera outbreak and is
r
hdad
e la
looking the port is a military zone, but don’t the scene of festivities each Easter. Above
R Bag
Rd
let that stop you visiting the misnamed Cha- the fort, on the plateau, stands a 15th-
teau Neuf (New Castle), which is in fact the century marabout (monument) to Ab-
old, 14th-century fort of Merinid Sultan delkader, who died in Baghdad but is still Hassan, a tobacco trader who became Bey of
Abou Hassan. While some of the complex revered here. A café serves the many visitors WALK FACTS Oran in 1812. The house, dating from 1700,
is closed, the Bey’s Palace (rue Meftah Kouider; ad- the site attracts. Start Place du 1 Novembre was restored in 1900 and is closed to visitors.
mission adult/student DA20/10; h9am-4pm Sat-Wed) is Finish Place Rabah Continue down the slope until it reaches
open, in spite of closed gates (you may have Activities Distance 2km place Boudali Hasni, also known as place
to shout for the guard). The massive walls SWIMMING Duration Two hours to half a day if you Rabah, an elegant centrepiece to the ‘lower
were first built in the 1340s by Merinid The sea immediately around the city can visit the sites town’, much of it built in the early 19th cen-
Sultan Abou Hassan and reinforced by the be dirty, although the beach at Ain el-Turck is tury and now derelict. On your left (south),
Spaniards in 1509, by the Ottomans in the very popular in summer. The best beaches – pass the old Gendarmerie (4) and head up blvd
1700s and the French in the 19th century. and the best swimming – are found further Passing the theatre, leave the square head- Frères Guerrab – some houses off this street
The location is perfect, above the town, port west and you will need your own transport, ing due north, down the sloping rue Bena- date back to the Spanish period. Where the
and sea, and the gateway is impressive, but or a friendly taxi driver, to get to them. Les mara Boutkhil. Take the first turning right, boulevard veers left, continue straight uphill
there is little majesty left in the building, Andalouses has long been one of the most rue Meftah Kouider, following it to the left, along a market street and follow the stalls
now dominated by the concrete shell of a popular summer beaches, and is increas- towards a dead end. Above you are the ram- right, onto rue Sidi Lahaouri.
stalled building project. ingly encroached upon. You may find parts parts of the Chateau Neuf and the balcony Sidi el-Houari, Oran’s holy man, died
The bey, Mohamed el-Kebir, moved his of it turned into private beach clubs (DA150 to of the Bey’s Palace (2; opposite; h9am-4pm Sat- here in 1439 and gave his name to the street
residence into the fort after the Spaniards DA350). Madagh, an idyllic double cove be- Wed). The street ends at the massive Spanish- and the district, the heart of the casbah and
vacated it in 1792; he was encouraged by yond Les Andalouses, was voted Oran’s period gateway to the fort. Inside, on the home, well into the 1900s, of a largely Span-
the fact that this was one of the few places best beach in 2006. In town the Sheraton right, a modern gate leads up to the palace – ish-origin population. More recently the
untouched by the disastrous earthquake of (x041 590100) welcomes nonguests to its call out for the guards if they are not on duty king of rai, Cheb Khaled, was born here on
1790. The main public room, the diwan, pool for DA1500 per person. and they will let you visit. The views over the 29 February 1960. The mosque of Sidi el-Houari
has a fireplace where the sultan’s throne city and port from here are wonderful. (5), built in Moorish style in 1793, is up the
once stood beneath a painted ceiling. In the Walking Tour Retracing your steps after visiting the pal- street on the right and is a popular place
inner courtyard, on the left is the room of If the town hall is open at the place du 1 Novem- ace, rue Benamara Boutkhil curves past the of pilgrimage for Algerians, as is the saint’s
the favourite concubine, a place of pleas- bre (1; p141), walk inside to admire the onyx old Armes et Cycles shop and around the tomb, south along the same street. Visits
ure with elaborate stucco walls and painted staircase and newly restored glass ceiling. Pasha’s Mosque (3; opposite) to the House of Si may be possible out of prayer times.
144 N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A • • O r a n Book accommodation online
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A • • O r a n 145
The Cathedral of St Louis (6) was built by the Hôtel Montparnasse (x041 395338; 9 rue Bense- and service is friendly and efficient. Alco- International destinations served by Air
French in 1839 on the site of a 1679 Spanish nouci Hamida; s/d DA3500/4000; a) Don’t be put hol is served. Algérie include Paris, Lyon and Marseille.
church, destroyed, like much of this part off by the ‘back door’ on blvd Emir Ab- Aigle Azur (x041 390940; www.aigle-azur.fr; airport)
of the casbah, in the 1790 earthquake. The delkader, this is a good, clean, central hotel Drinking also operates a daily direct service to Paris.
cathedral is now closed and derelict, but if with shower, fridge and TV. There are plenty of seedy bars in town (look
you find the resident guardian you may be Sheraton Oran (x 041 590100; www.sheraton for the Stella signs). BOAT
allowed to look around. .com/oran; Route des Falaises Es Seddikia; s/d incl breakfast Club Sevilla (5 rue Ramier) is a cut above the rest. There are regular sailings from Oran to
From here, head northeast to rue Frères DA13,300/18,000; pais) Currently the It’s a small bar with food and music till late. Alicante (Spain; 12 hours) and Marseille
Dahl Youcef, then east, passing Le Corsaire (7, best in town, the Sheraton has a curva- (France; 11 hours). Tickets must be bought
right)–here the street is also known as pl de ceous mirrored wall containing the height Entertainment in advance from one of several agencies in
la Republique–then south back to place Bou- of Oranese luxury (at least until the Royal is Oran is the proud birthplace of rai and it town, ENTMV (x041 392166; 9 blvd de la Soummam)
dani Hasni, also known as place Rabah. From running). It’s a short drive from the centre, won’t be long before you hear its distinctive being the biggest.
the square, head back to the upper town. with fully equipped rooms and a range of beat. But it can be hard to track down live
restaurants. music, outside of the August festival. The BUS
Festivals & Events Hôtel Royal (x041 393144; www.sofitel.com;3 blvd circuit tends to shift by the season and fash- Oran has several bus stations, which can be
The Festival National de la Chanson du Rai d’Oran de la Soummam) When it reopens in 2007, the ion, but in high summer the clubs of Ain el- confusing for visitors, especially since they
(www.festival-rai.over-blog.org) is the city’s celebra- Royal will be Oran’s most elegant hotel and Turck should all be running. Look out for are strung out across the city and, since the
tion of its home-grown sound. Started in should live up to its name. At the time of Le Biarritz (where Khaled first performed), privatisation of bus services, there is no reli-
1985, it takes place in August in the Théâtre our visit, the gilding was being applied to Le Chalet and El-Jawhara. L’Ambiance at able information.
de Verdure, the outdoor arena beneath the the ironwork. the Sheraton also has live music. Agence Castor, off the 2nd blvd Pe-
eastern bastion of Chateau Neuf fort. The The Centre Culturel Français (x041 403541; ripherieque, is a relatively new bus sta-
festival has long suffered from cash short- Eating www.ccf-oran.com; 112 rue Larbi ben M’hidi) has regu- tion serving northwest Algeria, including
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
ages, but the government has promised to A recent survey found that 60% of men lar screenings of French-language films. Mostaganem (DA80), Mascara (DA90) and
increase its support. in Oran prefer to eat breakfast in a café Something more macho can be found at Chlef (DA90).
rather than at home and, as a result, the Cinema Lynx (81 Larbi ben M’hidi; films DA69). The Gare Routiere el-Hemri (Blvd Colonel Lotfi),
Sleeping city is packed with cafés. Good restaurants 213tv (x015 028030; www.213tv.com). A new formerly known as SNTV, was the central
Hôtel Riad (x041 403850; 46 blvd Mellah Ali; s/d/tr are harder to find, and it’s harder still to Franco-Algerian operation with a mission bus station until bus services were privatised.
DA400/700/1000) A very basic option across find the local speciality of brannieh (a to revitalise Oran’s cultural life, stages regu- Destinations include Algiers (DA470, eight
from the train station (and mosque), for stew of lamb or beef with courgettes and lar live music events. hours), Tindouf (DA2100, 14 hours), Con-
those times when the budget won’t stretch chickpeas). stantine (DA900, 14 hours), Setif (DA700,
to anywhere else. Some rooms come with La Voile d’Or (62 rue Mohamed Khemisti; dishes Shopping 12 hours), Ouargla (DA900, 12 hours),
showers. DA400-500; h lunch & dinner Sun-Thu) A simple Rue Larbi ben M’hidi and rue Mohamed Ghardaia (DA700, 10 hours) and other dis-
Hôtel Khalid (x041 332628; 21 rue Marcel Cer- air-conditioned restaurant near a popular Khemisti are the city’s main shopping streets, tant places. There is no phone service, but
dan; s/d incl breakfast DA1500/1700, s/d with air-con incl public garden, serving fresh fish dishes and lined with boutiques and sports shops. M Boumazair of Amin Voyages (x070 122926)
breakfast DA1800/2200; a) The best of several alcohol. Abdallah Benmansour (x041 397882; 5 rue Mo- at the station can provide information.
budget places along the backstreets close Restaurant Cintra (x041 393345; 14 blvd de la Sou- hamed Khemisti). Benmansour is one of Alge- Buses leave the Yaghmourassen station (rue
to the centre. More expensive rooms have mmam; dishes DA450-1200) An old-timer on one of ria’s most respected artists; his paintings Yaghmourassen) for Tlemcen (DA200) and the
streetside windows. the grand boulevards with an international hang in the shop and are for sale. He also west. Transport Veolia (x021 498024) runs a
Grand Hôtel (x041 391533; 5 place du Magreb; menu of Catalan tuna, Spanish crevettes and sells stationary and art materials. day and night Oran–Algiers service from
s/d DA2000/3000; a) A reminder of the city’s French sole. Alcohol is served. Patisserie Algéroise (x041 398759; 81 rue Larbi here (day/night DA720/820, eight hours).
glory days, the Grand is well past its prime, Le Corsaire (x041 397620; 6 place de la Republique; ben M’hidi).The best baklava and local pastries
rooms are as tired as reception staff, but dishes DA500-600; hclosed lunch Fri) The restau- in town are sold at this patisserie. TAXI
there is still plenty of atmosphere and it has rants by the Pecherie serve some of Oran’s Taxis leave round the clock from the car
a central location. best fish, but none match the Corsaire, Getting There & Away park beside Stade 19 Juin (av des Martyrs de la Revo-
o Hôtel Residence le Timgad ( x 041 its motto on y est bien en famille (you are AIR lution) for Algiers (DA900, six hours) and
394797; www.hoteltimgad.com; 22 blvd Emir Abdelkader; among family here). Chose from the display Es-Sénia International Airport (x 041 511153/ from 4am to 8pm to Constantine (DA1600,
s/d incl breakfast DA3400/4150; pai) An ex- and have it cooked the way you want. Pa- 591031) is 18 km southeast of town, near Ta- 12 hours) and eastern Algeria.
tremely well run and friendly hotel in an ella, a speciality, is best ordered in advance. fraoui village. Standard taxis collectifs (shared taxis) des-
uninspiring modern block right in the No alcohol. Air Algérie (x041 427205, 041 427206; www.air tinations from the USTO station (off rue Djemila,
centre of town. Rooms are large, spotless, Grand Café Riche (x041 394797; 22 blvd Emir algerie.dz; 2 blvd Emir Abdelkader; h8am-noon & 2-5pm near Clinque Nekkache) include Biskra (DA120),
double-glazed and well appointed. The Abdelkader; dishes DA800-950; hlunch & dinner) The Sat-Wed, 8am-noon Thu) flies direct from Oran to Ghardaia (DA1100) and Msila (DA900).
ground-floor restaurant is reliable, and the name is misleading: not a big, bustling a number of airports around Algeria includ-
parrot in reception does a great imitation café, but the restaurant of Hôtel Residence ing Algiers (approximately DA3720), Tind- TRAIN
of phones ringing. It may have detailed city le Timgad. Food is standard French, the ouf, Tamarasset (approximately DA14,200), The train station (x 041 401502, 041 361788;
maps for sale. Recommended. cloths are crisp white, the room curtained Adrar and Annaba. blvd Mellah Ali) is a 10-minute walk from the
146 N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A • • T l e m c e n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A • • T l e m c e n 147
centre. The service to Morocco stopped Turck (DA20) and the beaches to the west
Sidi Boumediene (1km)

To Mosque & Tomb of
D3
Restaurant Agadir......................19 D3
21 D3
25 D3
C3
C4
C3
C3
C3
A4
C3
C2
C3
Restaurant Coupole...................20 C3
Métiers..................................22 C4
Farouk Stambouli.......................23 C3
B3
B3
B2
B3
B3
B2
B3
Air Algérie..................................24 B2
400 m
E4
when the border closed, but there is a daily leave during the day from rue Benamara
Banque Extérieure d'Algérie.........1

Centre Culturel Français...............2
Cyber Star Internet......................3
Librarie Soleil................................4
Main Post Office..........................5
Mansourah Web Café..................6
Office de Tourisme......................7
ONAT..........................................8
Zenata Voyages...........................9
Grand Mosque...........................10
Mechouar..................................11
Mosque of Sidi Bel Hassan..........12
Tlemcen Museum...................... 13
Town Hall..................................14
Hôtel Agadir..............................15
Hôtel El-Mansour.......................16
Hôtel les Zianides.......................17
Hôtel Majestic............................18
Gare Routière (Bus Station)...........

Ho CFamiliale...................
0.2 miles
service to Sidi Bel Abbes at 4.10pm (one Boutkhil, just off place 1 Novembre.
Chambre de l'Artisanat et des

hour, 20 minutes), to Ain Temouchent (one
hour) and Tlemcen at 1.30pm, Relizane at TAXI
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
in h
3.45pm (1½ hours) and Algiers at 7.45am Taxis are easy to find (out of rush hour) and
iM
INFORMATION
(1st/2nd class with 15% reduction on return cheap enough: few trips in town will cost
TRANSPORT
SHOPPING
Restaurant
fares, DA990/705, 4½ hours). There is no more than DA200. Make sure the meter is
SLEEPING
EATING
Blvd
left-luggage facility. working or that you have fixed, in your mind
at least, what the journey is worth. There are
Getting Around taxis collectifs to Ain el-Turck during the
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT day (DA50), but at night a private taxi is
Station
Train
nh
EGSA, the airport operators, runs a bus your only option (at least DA200).
i Mi
ed
mm
Ch
service from the airport to outside a phar- oh
a
TLEMCEN ‫ﺗﻠﻤﺴﺎن‬
o
M
dH
17
macy on blvd Maatra Mohamed Habib,
h
ag
e
0
0
Blv
bb
man
Sa
A li
opposite the town hall. It officially oper- x043 / pop 150,000 iée
ib
im
rrah
To Agadir
Al
hed
(200 m)
bD
th
ates from 7am to 7pm, but may not con- Of all Algerian towns and cities, only Tlemcen RK
Ba
bde
You
'
Er
ci A
nect with flights. A taxi may cost up to boasts Moorish buildings to rival those in
Av
a
DA500. Morocco or Andalusia. The Romans recog-
djelm
15
19
25
nised its strategic and economic importance
Se
BUS and built a stronghold, Pomaria, here dur- za
ma
e
Most places inside Oran are within walking ing the reign of Septimus Severus, but noth- a
lem
nn
j H
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
Ad
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
s
edie
de
distance, the exception being Santa Cruz ing remains of the classical town. In the 8th R
Ab
ine
uar Hoc
um
Blvd Gao
i
and Djebel Murdjadjo, which can only be century Idriss I built a new town, which he
ou
ti Bo
zla
Rank
21
Taxi
he
reached by taxi. Regular buses for Ain el- called Agadir. Tlemcen grew in importance
Bekh
dG
Blv
SPAIN IN AFRICA
16 Fedayyines
Mechouar
R 1 Novembre
Pl des
20
If you detect a hint of Spain, something Andalusian perhaps, about parts of Oran, you’re on the
right track: for 200 years Oran and its surrounding area was under Spanish control, and even
ed
m
ri
m
before that there were regular contacts. a ha
18
oh Az
pt
22
M
Ca
Ibn Khaldoun
Andalusian traders founded Oran in the 10th century with an eye on Tlemcen and the North
t
be
ra
African interior. The town behind the port took on an even stronger Andalusian feel after Muslims tar
11
M
kh
rbar Pl Cdt Ferradj

9
Mo
dt
23
were expelled from Spain in 1492. One of the key figures of the Spanish move against Moors in
R
Cm jeb
erd dj
Spain was Cardinal Cisneros, Archbishop of Toledo and head of the Inquisition. In 1505 he paid for nz
Be
ra
Abdelkader
med
Av Cd t F
er
D r
Pl Emir
14
a force to attack Oran, taking control of the port of Mers el-Kebir. Four years later he personally
ham
3
Mo
7
led the Spanish attack on Oran, the beginning of what he hoped would be a crusade in North
To Mansourah
Ma
(2km)
ul
apt
Africa. Although the city fell in a day, King Ferdinand of Spain had little interest in the cardinal’s
Ao
8
10
Mohamed
RC
Khemisti
crusade and with the help of Mujedars (Moorish refugees from Andalusia) the pirate Kheirredin
Blvd Khazi
Pl
12
Barbarossa took Oran, eventually holding it for the Ottoman sultan, although not before he lost nce
nda
Ind epé
2
his elder brother fighting the Spanish inland near Tlemcen in 1510. e l'
Rd ji
4
if erd
The Spanish finally wrested control of Oran in 1732 and immediately fortified it. Buildings i Bou
c
ni D
am
adj Tid
ja
elh
5
such as the fort of Santa Cruz on Djebel Murdjadjo (p142) and some in the centre of the casbah RB d Dr
Blv
are reminders of Spanish presence. Although control of Oran passed in 1792 to the Ottomans mis
n Kha
and later to the French, there was still a significant Spanish-origin presence in the city in the R Ib
Dui Mai
24
early 20th century, with the area around the mosque of Sidi el-Houari (p143) referred to as the
ber
Pl
Dja
‘Spanish town’ (as opposed to the area around the Pasha’s Mosque, on the opposite side of
Paix
dt
otfi
the valley, known as the Turkish town).
Cm
La
13
L
t
Aoû
De
nel
Cardinal Cisneros hoped to make Oran a Christian foothold in North Africa, but his legacy R2
0
Colo
R
TLEMCEN
has been more unexpected. Part of it can be seen in the surviving Spanish-era structures and in
Av
the reputation the people of Oran have for fun. But most obviously it can be heard in the city’s
music: the Algerian-Andalusian music that accompanied the most popular singers of the 20th
century, such as Reinette el-Wahrania, the Oranaise, as she sang in the Spanish-town nightclubs
To Airport
(20km)
and in the Ville Nouvelle theatres; and in rai, the sound of new Oran.
148 N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A • • T l e m c e n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A • • T l e m c e n 149
under Almoravid ruler Youssef ben Tach- the centre will change foreign currency, in-
fine, who moved his capital here; for centu- cluding Banque Extérieure d’Algérie (av Cdt Far- THE GRAPEVINE
ries it was one of the centres of power in the adj). Hôtel les Zianides may change a small The French pride themselves on having created the Algerian wine industry, during the long
Mahgreb. In the first half of the 14th century amount, though at a less favourable rate. years of colonisation, but wine-making in the region goes back much further than the mid-19th
the Merinid sultan Abou Yacoub besieged century.
the town for so long that his camp, Man- POST & TELEPHONE Ancient Persians are said to have planted vines near the town of Medea several thousand years
sourah, became a town in itself. During the As elsewhere in Algeria, you don’t have to ago and the Numidians exported wine to Rome, enough of a reason for some, for the Roman
colonial period Tlemcen held off the French walk far to find a taxiphone booth. conquest. Arabs brought new varieties of grapes, including the Grenache, from Spain, while the
for more than 10 years and always had a Main post office (av Colonel Lotfi) Sells stamps and also Ottomans brought other varieties from the eastern Mediterranean. And in the 1860s French wine-
strong anticolonial movement. Algeria’s first phonecards for public phones. makers looked with envy to their new colony as French vineyards were decimated by Phylloxera,
independence movement was founded by a a North American aphid which is calculated to have destroyed 40% of French vines.
Tlemceni in 1924. Today, easy-going Tlem- TOURIST INFORMATION The French looked to Algeria for quantity, not quality. Towards the end of the colonial period,
cen, known as ‘the town of cherries’, is a Office de Tourisme (x043 263456; 17 rue Cdt Ferradj), Algeria was producing more than 500 million gallons a year, much of it exported to blend with
pleasure to visit. It also has a vision: Algeria’s run by the very helpful M Boubakar, has weaker north Mediterranean wine. Current production is around 15 million gallons, set to rise
largest university campus is currently being maps, information and a library (mostly over the next few years to 40 million. But the Algerians now have their sights on quality. They
built by a Chinese contractor. French). Some information is also available compare their soil type to California, but with more rain.
online at www.tlemcen-dz.com. The northwest is the main wine-growing region, accounting for as much as three quarters of
Orientation the country’s production, with important vineyards around Mascara, Medea and Tlemcen. The
The town sits beneath the wooded ridge of TRAVEL AGENCIES Coteaux de Tlemcen and Coteaux de Mascara, both robust, dark ruby wines, best served lightly
Lala Setti, on the edge of the rich farmland ONAT (x043 271660; 15 rue de l’Independence) chilled, are among the best and are widely available in Algeria.
of the Henneya and Maghnia plains. It has Zenata Voyages (x043 277090; www.zenatavoyages
had several centres over the centuries: the .com; 11 rue Cdt Mokhtar) Offers domestic and interna-
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
Idrissid one at Agadir, the Almoravid one tional travel facilities. men sit under the shade trees. Northwest of admission DA20; h8.30am-noon, 1.30-5pm Sat-Thu) to
at Mansourah and the Zianide one around here, at the end of rue Docteur ben Zerdjeb, be equally rich. It is not. The collection used
the Mechouar. The Grand Mosque and place Sights is the lively Kissaria, the market area. to be housed in the mosque of Sidi Bel Has-
Emir Abdelkader are now the town’s main GRAND MOSQUE san, on place Mohamed Khemisti, but now
hub and most sights and facilities are to Tlemcen’s Grand Mosque (place Emir Abdelkader; MECHOUAR occupies a 1905 college building. Arranged
be found within a 20-minute walk of here. h8-11am Sat-Thu) is one of North Africa’s Very little remains of the early settlement over two floors, the collection is basic and
Mansourah lies to the southwest of the cen- most important Islamic buildings. Begun by of Agadir, but the camp Youssef ben Tach- the arrangement is confusing, with Al-
tre, Agadir to the northeast. Both are too the Almoravid leader Youssef ben Tachfine fine occupied during his siege of Agadir moravid, Merenid and Zianid coins, brass
far to walk. around 1091, it has been substantially rebuilt has now become the Mechouar (entrance lamps, carved stile and stucco all jumbled
several times over the centuries but retains on av Cdt Ferradj). A citadel was built over together. Among the treasures are 15th-
Information some important early features, including the the camp in 1145 and has been one of the century carved epitaphs from royal tombs.
BOOKSHOPS mihrab, elaborately decorated in stucco and town’s centrepieces ever since. The Zianide Also worth finding are the 1940s oil paint-
Libraire Soleil (x043 266501; 39 rue Ibn Khamis) Has carved stone, and a fine cupola with a mas- ruler Yaghmorassen moved his residence ings by local artist Abdelhalim Hemeche.
a good selection of French novels and history. sive chandelier. More impressive, though, inside the Mechouar walls in the early 14th
is the atmosphere of reverence that fills the century and a mosque was built in the SIDI BOUMEDIENE
CULTURAL CENTRES building. There are 133 steps to the top of the 1310s. The Ottoman admiral Barbarossa About 1.6km southeast of the centre, as the
CCF (x043 261722; www.ccf-tlemcen.com; 1 rue Col minaret, the oldest in this part of the Magh- used it as his stronghold in the 16th cen- crow flies, lies one of Algeria’s most beauti-
Djeber) Has a library, an exhibition space and a cinema. reb and the highest in town. To visit the tury and the French followed suit after the ful complexes, the Mosque & Tomb of Sidi Bou-
mosque, you need to observe the instruction fall of Tlemcen, using it as a barracks and mediene (Al Ubbad; h9am-4pm Sat-Thu), restored
INTERNET ACCESS that ‘women must wear long clothes’. hospital. Today the Mechouar offers a place by craftsmen from Fès in 1986. Abu Madyan
Cyber Star Internet (17 av Cdt Ferradj) Above Café of peace inside its massive walls and across Shu’ayb ibn al-Husayn al-Ansari, to give
Mechouar, opposite the entrance to the Mechouar. Has fast PLACE EMIR ABDELKADER & its broad esplanade. The Moorish mosque, him his full name, was born near Seville
connections in a nice room. PLACE MOHAMED KHEMISTI restored in 2003, is currently closed. One around 1115 and studied with Islamic mys-
Mansourah Web Café (Optique Opthalmique Bldg, Tlemcen revolves around these twin squares, of the central buildings houses the Cham- tics in Morocco before settling in Bejaya on
Place Emir Abdelkader) Near the Grand Mosque; also divided by rue de l’Independence. On the bre de l’Artisanat et des Métiers (x043 263224; the north Algerian coast and creating his
reliable. south side is the old colonial-era town hall h8.30am-noon & 1.30-5pm Sat-Thu), where local own Sufi circle. A mystic, poet and man of
(1843), opposite is the Grand Mosque and handicrafts, including embroidered camel great integrity – he was called the Sheikh of
MEDICAL SERVICES on the west side is the 12th-century Mosque saddles and hand-woven covers, are on sale Sheikhs and the Nurturer – Abu Madyan, or
Civil Hospital (x043 261821; 76 blvd Ben Zerdjeb) of Sidi Bel Hassan, built in 1297 by the son at fixed prices. Sidi Boumediene, as the Algerians call him,
of the noted local ruler Yaghmorassen and died in Tlemcen in 1197, on his way back
MONEY dedicated to a local holy man. The squares TLEMCEN MUSEUM to Marrakech. His tomb has become a place
Don’t count on the Tlemcen ATMs ac- are busy throughout the day, particularly Given the wealth of history, you would be of pilgrimage and his cult was still suffi-
cepting your bank cards. Several banks in after prayers, when the cafés are buzzing and forgiven for expecting the museum (rue 20 Aout; ciently strong for former Algerian President
150 N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A • • T l e m c e n Book accommodation online
lyplanet.com Book
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A • • G h a z a o u e t 151
Mohamed Boukharouba to have adopted of Fès when he came to besiege Tlemcen Restaurant Agadir (x043 271962; 19 rue Khedim TRAIN
the name Boumediene as his nom de guerre in 1335. The prayer hall measures 60m by Ali; dishes DA300-600) Situated in the hotel of the Since the Oran–Casablanca express was
during the independence struggle. 55m, but most impressive is the 40m mina- same name, this restaurant serves a good cancelled following the closure of the Mo-
The sidi’s tomb is down steps on the left ret, a twin of the Tour Hassan in Rabat and couscous dinner, though check ahead, roccan border, the only service running out
as you enter the complex. The tomb is a the Giralda in Seville, its inner side having because it sometimes closes if the hotel is of Tlemcen station is the 7.30am for Oran.
simple affair, Boumediene on the right, Sidi fallen leaving it a vulnerable and evoca- empty.
Abdelsam el-Tonsi on the left. The tiled tive shell. The site is open at all times. The Restaurant Familiale (blvd Gouar Hocine; meals Getting Around
antechamber houses a worn, marble well, lions you might hear roaring as you visit DA300-400) On a row of several simple res- The centre of Tlemcen is easy to walk
its water believed to bring blessings from are across the road in the Mansourah Zoo, taurants, this place serves excellent meals around, though there are taxis if you get
the sidi. Beside the tomb, a doorway leads closed at the time of writing. of harira thick meat, lentil & chickpea soup tired. Camionettes (local buses) are unlikely
to the Dar es-Soltane. Abou el-Hassan, the and rotisserie chicken with vegetables, in- to be of use getting to Mansourah or Sidi
Merinid ruler of Fès, refused to live in Man- Sleeping side or out on the covered terrace. Recom- Boumediene unless you are leaving from
sourah, so had this residence constructed Hôtel Majestic (x043 262546; place Cheikh Ibrahimi; mended. Near Bab Sidi Boumediene the station. Taxis can be flagged down in the
beside the saint’s tomb. The rooms are s/d without bathroom DA400/800) The welcome Restaurant Coupole (4 rue 1 Novembre; meals street or call Taxi ben Ali (x043 203148/49).
ruined – a little carved stucco remains in is fresher than the rooms in this central DA300) Across the road from Hôtel Moderne, There is no bus to the airport, but a taxi
some corners, enough to suggest vanished budget hotel, where the only washing fa- the Coupole isn’t quite up to Familiale’s should cost around DA100.
grandeur – but there is no mistaking the cilities are a washbasin or the nearby public standards, but the simple meals are reliable
beauty of the site and the wonderful views baths. and the service is friendly. GHAZAOUET ‫ﻏﺰوات‬
over the plain. oHôtel El-Mansour (043 265678; place des Algeria’s westernmost port sits in a well-
Across the way stands the mosque, built Fedayyines; s/d/tr without bathroom DA450/650/950) The Shopping protected bay, some 70km from Tlemcen
by Abou el-Hassan in 1328. The building is Mansour is run by a very attentive patron, As well as general shopping in the Kissaria (DA150 in taxis collectifs). The road is busy
both grand and beautiful. A stairway leads who calls himself a ‘sleep trader’ and keeps and crafts in the Chambre de l’Artisanat et des with halabiyah, the so-called ‘milk run’ of
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
to a massive entrance porch and, through the best budget hotel in town, perhaps even Métiers (x043 263224; inside the Mechouar; h8.30am- vehicles, from trucks to small cars, smug-
massive bronze-clad cedar doors, to the the region. It is secure, as well. Most rooms noon & 1.30-5pm Sat-Thu), Tlemcen is noted for gling cheap Algerian petrol to the Moroc-
mosque, an open-sided, rectangular prayer are arranged around a courtyard, those on its textiles. You can find good-quality bur- can border.
space, beautifully proportioned and finely the upper floor being brighter, the few that nouses along rue Merabet Mohamed, which The Romans called Ghazaouet Ad
decorated in tiles and carved stucco. look into a corridor being darker but hav- runs east of Pl Emir Abdelkader. Farouk Stam- Fratres (the Two Brothers), after the twin
A madrassa (Quranic school) was built ing less mosque noise. There are no fans, bouli (x043 264783; 8 place Cdt Ferradj) is a long- 25m rocks that rise out of the water at the
above the mosque by Abou el-Hassan in so it can be hot in summer, but there are established merchant who has a range of mouth of the harbour. Under the French
1347. The courtyard is elegant but undeco- showers on the ground floor and a sweet- top-quality, hand-woven rugs and blankets. the port was known as Nemours, after the
rated, surrounded by 25 cells for students. water well in the courtyard. French aristocrat who governed here, and
It was here, soon after it was finished, that Hôtel Agadir (x043 271962; 19 rue Khedim Ali; s/d/ Getting There & Away had a reputation for the quality anchovies
the great Arab scholar Ibn Khaldun gave tr incl breakfast DA1600/2400/3000) A modern hotel AIR and sardines canned in its factory. The
classes. beside the bus station, a short walk from Aeroport Messali el-Hadj is 21km out of centre still has a French feel, with its cov-
If the gates of the mosque or medersa are the centre. Rooms have showers and TV, town, near the village of Zenata. Air Algérie ered market (1938) and the central church,
locked, look for the guide, Habri Belattar, but no fans or air-con. (x 043 264518; www.airalgerie.dz; rue du Docteur now a library (1931). The Pecherie, at the
who runs the last stall on the right as you Hôtel les Zianides (x043 277221; 12 rue Khedim Damardji Tedjini) flies direct from Tlemcen to east end of the port, is a good place to walk
approach the complex. Ali; s/d B&B DA3000/5000; pas) The red-brick Algiers (from DA4558, one hour). and watch the fish being landed off boats
Zianides, designed by celebrity French ar- as well as locals trying their luck with rod
MANSOURAH chitect Fernand Pouillon, was Tlemcen’s BUS and line.
Just under 3km from the Mechouar, Man- pride and joy when it opened in 1973. But There are regular departures during the The best swimming is found away from
sourah (h24hr) – the victorious – never lived the state-owned hotel has been neglected, day from the station beside Hôtel Aga- the port. There’s a fashionable beach 10km
up to its name. It started as the camp where rooms are shabby and dire cooking is dir on blvd Ghezlaoui Abdeslam to Oran east where, it is said, ‘even the rich like to
Merinid sultan Abou Yacoub settled his served in a restaurant where waiters chase (DA150, five hours), Sidi Bel Abbes (DA80, go’. There is also good swimming west, at
army in 1299, when he besieged Tlemcen. cockroaches. The pool sits in a mature two hours) and towns en route to Algiers Marsa ben M’hidi, a 2km stretch of fine
The siege lasted eight years, during which garden. (DA600, 12 hours). Safar Mabrouk Coaches sand that is cut through by the Moroccan
the camp became a residence, complete runs an express service to Algiers leaving at border. To get there you’ll need a car. Some
with palace and mosque. Just as the city Eating 6pm (DA700, 10 hours). people hitch with the petrol smugglers.
was about to fall, the sultan was murdered Tlemcen doesn’t have much to offer by way
by one of his slaves and the Merinids re- of culinary delights – the tourist office only TAXI Sleeping & Eating
treated. Remains of the 12m-high walls that recommends a place kilometres out of town. Taxis collectifs leave from beside the bus Hôtel Ziri (x043 323025; www.hotel-ziri.com; pa)
protected the camp stretch across the olive So, with the restaurant of Les Zianides to be station. The main destinations are Oran Ghazaouet’s only viable hotel. Perched on
groves far into the distance. The main sight avoided, the best food is going to be simple. (DA250, three hours), Sidi Bel Abbes the rocks on the eastern end of town, its
here, though, is the remains of the massive There are plenty of pizza places and baker- (DA180, two hours) and Algiers (DA1100, 34 rooms all have bathrooms and sea view
mosque, rebuilt by Sultan Abou el-Hassan ies in and around place Emir Abdelkader. nine to 10 hours) balconies.
152 N O R T H W E S T A L G E R I A • • G h a z a o u e t lonelyplanet.com
There are several cheap places to eat near Getting There & Away
the market in the centre of town, a few The Spanish ferry company Trasmediterránea
minutes from the church, but the best food (www.trasmediterranea.es) operates a ferry service
in town is served at Le Dauphin (closed between Ghazaouet and Almeria in Spain.
for refurbishment at the time of writing) Inland there is an irregular bus service to
in the Pecherie, where the local catch is Tlemcen (DA140, one hour and 40 min-
served grilled or fried. Fish is also on offer utes). Taxis collectifs make the journey for
at the more basic Etoile de Mer, in a nearby DA200 a seat. Otherwise, a private taxi for
shack. the day will cost around DA1200.
NORTHWEST ALGERIA
153
Ghardaïa & the

Grand Ergs ‫ﻏﺮداﻳۃ اﻟﻌﺮق‬
This vast area of central Algeria is home to some of the country’s most beguiling attractions.
It is dominated by the Grand Ergs – great oceans of windswept sand rising hundreds of
metres high and covering great swaths of the landscape. The Grand Erg Occidental (Great
Western Erg) covers some 80,000 sq km, extending from the Atlas Mountains in the north
to the Tademait Plateau in the south. To the east, the much larger Grand Erg Oriental (Great
Eastern Erg) nudges the centre of the country and then stretches well into Tunisia.
It’s not just endless waves of multihued dunes though. The landscape is surprisingly
diverse and in between the sand seas you’ll see wide scrub-dotted plains framed by Colorado-
style flat-top mountains, hectares of perfectly flat bone-white sand, fertile green valleys
and black volcanic plateaus.
Few roads pass through the Grand Ergs – the environment is too harsh for life to
survive – but they are encircled with ancient towns and emerald oases. At this region’s heart,
perched on the edge of the Grand Erg Occidental, is the World Heritage site of Ghardaïa,
part of a pentapolis of five hilltop cities built almost a thousand years ago by a Muslim
Ibadi sect called the Mozabites.
This is an area also known for its high temperatures and in the summer they can rise as
high as 50˚C. As the towns of the region swelter under an intense heat, some hotels close
down and residents traditionally retreat to the cool of the palm groves.
THE GRAND ERGS

GHARDAÏA &
HIGHLIGHTS
Explore the unique architecture and fascinating history of the five ancient towns in the
palm-lined M’Zab Valley (p155)
Wonder at the spiked, ochre buildings and watch the sun descend over the red salt lake in
Timimoun (p169) ‘le rouge’
Wander the crumbling oasis of Beni Abbès
(p166); then scramble to the top of the
nearest dune for unforgettable vistas over
El-Oued
the great western sand sea
M‘Zab Valley
Try your hand at sand skiing and spend the
night among ghosts in the 1000-year-old
Taghit
fortified village of Taghit (p165)
Beni Abbès
Scale the central minaret of El-Oued (p172)
and gaze over domed rooftops to the Timimoun
dunes beyond
154 G HA R D A Ï A & T H E G R A N D E R G S lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G HA R D A Ï A & T H E M ’ Z A B • • G h a r d a ï a 155
GHARDAÏA & THE M’Zab. Here they set about building a series
400 km
Deb-Deb
of towns, choosing to build them on hills
Lala
Sabria
TUNISIA
Kebili M’ZAB ‫ﻏﺮداﻳۃ ﻣﺰاب‬ to enhance their security. Little by little the
Djebel
Mdilla
Nouil
240 miles
existing inhabitants of the valley were as-

Tozeur
Grand Erg Oriental

similated into Ibadi culture and religion.
Metlaoui
Classified as a World Heritage site by El-Atteuf was the first city to be founded
Unesco in 1982, the M’Zab is a deep, nar- in 1013, followed by Bou Noura in 1065,
Tamerza
Nefta
row valley crowned by a pentapolis – five then Ghardaïa in 1087; two centuries later
towns rising up sharply from different Beni Isguen (1321) and Bou Noura (1355)
Larbi
Taleb
Souf El-Oued
Robbah
points along its length. Ghardaïa is the followed.

Guemar
Flatters
Khalifa
Hassi
Fort
main town and the others, which surround
GHARDAÏA ‫ﻏﺮداﻳۃ‬
Rhourde
Hamra
it, are Melika, Beni Isguen, Bou Noura and
Messaoud
Ouargla
Temacine
El-Oued
Airport
Airport
El-Atteuf; although Ghardaïa is often used The first glimpse you catch of Ghardaïa is
El-Tenedla
Hassi
to refer to all five. Each town is built on a unforgettable; all main roads leading there
knoll, its pastel-coloured box like buildings skim the edge of the hills offering majes-
Touggourt
Tamelhat
Djamaa
Mrhaier
climbing up towards a slim, turreted mina- tic views of Ghardaïa and its surrounding
N'goussa
Ouargla
Dzioua
ret. The old town centres are riddled with towns, framed by dense green palm groves
El Alia
narrow, winding streets and covered alley- and the Oued M’Zab (dry river bed). The
d M'Zab
0
0
ways and are excellent places to explore. sight is even more impressive if you’ve
Ouled
Djellal
Guerrara
The oasis is massive, stretching for some come to the valley overland, through the
ue
Zelfana O
10km along the valley, which is lined with barren, stony wasteland that surrounds it.
hectares of palm groves; and fruit trees of all Ghardaïa is the largest and most impor-
El-Abeidi
Bou Noura
Ghardaïa
Airport
kinds battle each other for room under the tant of the five towns and is the commercial
ri r
Borj
g
ed Ze
Ou
shadow of the palms. Traditionally, the cit- and administrative hub of the M’Zab – in-
Sebseb
Berriane
ies’ inhabitants would escape to these palm- deed the commercial hub of the Algerian
Melika
M’Zab
Valley
Bou Ali
Ghardaïa
El-Ibel
eraie palm groves in the summer to shelter Sahara – sprawling way beyond its original
Messad
Ain
Laghouat
themselves from the intense heat. city centre. It’s the only town with proper
Plateau du Tademaït
d
ue
O
Beni
Isguen
The M’Zab Valley is home to the Moz- tourist facilities (apart from a couple of
El-Golea
abites (see boxed text, p160), part of the lodges in Beni Isguen), and the place where
Ain Mahdi
Tadjmout
Ibadi sect (see the boxed text, p48), who all long-distance transport pitches up, so
El Maia
Aflou
ggueur
d es Se
Oue broke away from mainstream Islam and it’s likely that you’ll end up staying here. As
Taouiala
built a home in this harsh arid landscape well as a number of hotels and restaurants,
s
during the 11th century. The Mozabites’ there are several shops around the town’s
Petit Mecheria
tain
Matriouene
Ghassoul
Ed Dine
Sidi Haj
Brezina
un
culture and religion are fiercely protected cobbled market square, selling souvenirs
Bou Alam
Mo
and the towns have managed to retain and carpets, a speciality of the area.
as
Grand Erg Oriental

THE GRAND ERGS
Atl
THE GRAND ERGS

Kerakda
Sidi Cheikh
much of their original character and many

Tiberrhamine
El-Abiodh
GHARDAÏA &
GHARDAÏA &
El Bayadh
Timimoun
Sfissifa
Oulad Said Guelmane
traditions. Orientation
Airport
El-Hadj
Ouadjda
Oufrane
Ghardaïa’s old city, housing the market and

Bougtob
GHARDAÏA & THE GRAND ERGS
Mosbah
Alfaville
Gourara
History the mosque, lies immediately west of the

Semghoun
Airport
Mecheria
Benoud
Adrar
Timimoun
The history of the M’Zab is inextricably Oued M’Zab. Just south of the old town on
Khelil Dahrania
Bou
Ain ben Chellala
Adrar
Oulad
Mahmoud
El-Barka
linked with the Ibadis. Yet nomads also rue Emir Abdelkader is where you’ll find the
Tasfaoud
Charouine
lived here, as did Berber tribes, and archae- main banks, the Office National Algerien du
Aïn Sefra
El-Mansour
ologists have found traces of life – in rock Tourisme (ONAT) and several hotels. Fol-
Beni-Ounif
Forthassa
engravings and ancient ruined villages – low this road south as it becomes av du 1er
Rharbia
El Kasdir
going back for many centuries. Novembre, and you’ll eventually hit Beni
Kerzaz
Beni Ikhlef
Magoura
Figuig
It was the arrival of the Ibadi in the 11th Isguen. If arriving by bus you’ll be deposited
El-Ouata
century, however, that really shook things at the main station on rue Ahmed Talbi, on
Bechar Djedid
Berguent
Carvings
Taghit
Ouakda
up. Having broken from mainstream Islam the eastern bank of the Oued M’Zab, a few
Rock
Béchar
El-Mena
Jerada
Bour Oulad
a few hundred years before, they were chased minutes’ walk from the town centre.
Bou Arfa
Bha
Tendrara
and
Sousf
ed
Ou
from their North African capitals, including
Matarka
MOROCCO
El-Ahmar
Isrhi
Mengoub
Beni Abbès
Information
Kenadsa
Tahert in the Atlas Mountains and Sedrata

Hamaguir
Taourirt
Sellaouit
near El-Oued. In order to secure a safe future INTERNET ACCESS

Abadla
Guercif
for themselves, they fled to a place where There are several internet cafés in Ghardaïa.
Ouahar
Bouanane
Talsint
Boudenib
Oued
Mahirija
Anoual
they would be far removed from potential Both Riad Computer Service (av du 1 Novembre;
enemies, choosing the harsh territory of the per hour DA100; h8.30am-9pm) opposite M’Zab
156 G HA R D A Ï A & T H E M ’ Z A B • • G h a r d a ï a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G HA R D A Ï A & T H E M ’ Z A B • • G h a r d a ï a 157
Tours and Cyber Café (DA80; h8am-10pm) just ful information about the region and can GHARDAÏA, MELIKA & BENI ISGUEN 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
opposite the main bus station have high- organise guides for the town as well as 4WD
speed, reliable connections. tours further afield.
EATING
Pizzeria Aïssa................................27 B3
MEDICAL SERVICES TRAVEL AGENCIES Restaurant Atlantide..................(see 24)
Clinique Aicha Bouker (x029 898815; h7am- Big Sun Destination (x029 891491; www.bigsun Restaurant le Palmier...................28 C4
6.30pm) In Beni Isguen; a good place to go for more minor .populus.ch; Cite Ider Est, Beni Isguen) Organises guided SHOPPING
ailments. tailored trips for tourists and businessmen, cultural visits, 17 Market.........................................29 A3
Clinique des Oasis (x029 889999; cliniqueoasis@ car and driver hire and stays in traditional homes. 20 TRANSPORT
yahoo.fr; El-Moustadjeb-Bouhraoua) A well-managed M’Zab Tours (x029 880002; www.mzabtours.com; av Air Algerie....................................30 B3
Big Sun Destination......................31 D4
private hospital with excellent facilities. du 1er Novembre) An excellent and well-organised agency Bus Stop...................................... 32 D4
Gare Routière (Bus Station)..........33 B2
SOS-SUD Ambulance (x029 880447/061, 645193/071, offering individually tailored tours from around €50 per Hadj Kouider..............................(see 33)
37
751535; fax 029 880435; rue Ahmed Talbi) A 24-hour, seven- person per day depending on the number of people in your Local Bus & Taxis.........................34 A3
Long Distance Taxis......................35 B2
days-a-week emergency ambulance service which provides a party. It can also organise daily guides for Ghardaïa, car
N
M'Zab Tours.................................36 B3
AL
11
service all over southern Algeria. hire and border pick-ups. It has a sister agency in Taman- Naftal Service Station....................37 B2
albi
18
Ou
Av de
dT
ed
rasset which organises similar excursions in the south, as
me
'Z
MONEY well as guesthouses in Beni Isguen (see p161), El-Goléa
ab
Ah
9 33 19
15 Ghardaïa
R
Banque de Développement Locale (rue Ahmed Talbi; (see p171) and Tamanrasset (see p187). 7
13
h8.45am-12:30pm & 1.30-3.30pm Sun-Thu) Changes R
Ib 1
35
n 5
foreign currency but not travellers cheques. Also has an VEHICLE REPAIR Ro 29
st e 26
ATM that didn’t accept foreign cards at the time of writing. Rue Ahmed Talbi is like one giant mechanic n 34
6 24
Banque Nationale d’Algérie (av du 1er Novembre; workshop. Come here for a wide choice of 22
R Emir 2
30
8
h8.45am-12:30pm & 1.30-3.30pm Sun-Thu) Also garages, vehicle-repair shops and spare Abdelkader
changes travellers cheques. parts. Cemetery To Bou Noura (1km);

25 El-Atteuf (6km)
Credit Populaire d’Algérie (rue Emir Abdelkader; 27
Melika
h8.45am-12:30pm & 1.30-3.30pm Sun-Thu) Has a foreign- Dangers & Annoyances 3

exchange bureau that changes travellers cheques. It is also There’s not much threat to personal safety 36
possible to get a cash advance on a Visa or MasterCard. You’ll for visitors to Ghardaïa. However it still 10
need your passport for this and it takes about 30 minutes. pays to keep a close eye on your valuables,
particularly in crowded areas such as the Av 31
du ab
There’s a branch of Western Union in the market, and to take care when walking 21 23 Oued M'Z
1e
r N
main post office next to the gare routière around at night. o v em
bre 16
(bus station). 32
Sights & Activities INFORMATION
Association d'Orientation
28
POST & TELEPHONE The entrance to the old city is along rue Ibn Touristique.................................1 A3
THE GRAND ERGS
THE GRAND ERGS

Banque de Développment Locale....2 B3
The post office (x029 643730; 8am-noon & 1-6pm Rosten, which leads to a pretty cobbled open
GHARDAÏA &
GHARDAÏA &
Banque Nationale d'Algérie............3 B3 Beni Isguen
Sat-Thu) is next door to the main bus station square in the middle of the old part of the Clinique Aicha Bouker.................... 4 D5
Clinique des Oasis..........................5 D3 12 To Airport (10km);
just off rue Ahmed Talbi. There are taxi- town, where the daily market is. You can Credit Populaire d'Algérie..............6 A3 SLEEPING El-Goléa (285km)
phone shops all over town. pick up all manner of things here from jew- Cyber Café.....................................7 B2 Camping Bouleila............16 C4
ONAT............................................8 A3 Camping Oued M'Zab....17 B1
ellery, sportswear and nuts to herbal medi- Post Office.....................................9 B2 Hotel de la Palmeraie......18 A2
TOURIST INFORMATION cines for haemorrhoids. Ghardaïa’s most Riad Computer Service.................10 B3 Hotel du Gare.................19 B2 14 4
SOS-SUD Ambulance...................11 B2 Hotel El Djanoub............ 20 B1
There’s a helpful ONAT (x029 881751) office famous souvenirs are its traditional carpets Hotel le Rym.................. 21 B4
on rue Emir Abdelkader which offers use- (see p159) and luckily most of the shops that SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Borj Cheikh el-Hadj......................12 D5
Hotel Rostemides........... 22
Hotel Tassili.................... 23
A3
B4
Great Mosque..............................13 A2 Hôtel Atlantide...............24 B3
Palmeraie.....................................14 C5 Hôtel Izorane..................25 B3 To Auberge de la Palmeraie (2km);
Big Sun Maison d'Hôtes (2km);
THE STORY OF GHAR DAÏA White Fathers..............................15 A2 Hôtel Napht................... 26 A3 Maison Traditionnale Akham (2km)
An old Berber tale tells the story of a young woman by the name of Daïa who was passing through
the M’Zab with a group of wandering nomads when, straying away from her group in search of line the main square are in the carpet-selling this you should visit the Guides Office at
water one day, she found herself left behind. Scared and alone she made her home in a cave (a business. Unlike in some parts of the coun- the Association d’Orientation Touristique (x029
‘ghar’) and each night would light a fire to ward off danger. The founders of the city, camped up try, you can get away with bargaining here 882699; h8am-noon & 2-6pm; guides available) on rue
in the hills above, saw lights flickering below and grew more and more curious as to their origin. and it’s all part of the fun; you might well Cheikh Ammi Saïd, signposted just off the
One day, one of the founders sent his servant to find out the source of these strange lights and be invited to take tea with the shop owner market square. Guides cost DA250.
the servant returned with the young girl. So taken was he by her beauty that he asked for her while you peruse the stock room. Walking up rue Cheikh Ammi Saïd
hand in marriage and, legend has it, named the city he founded in her name. To venture further into the old city you’ll you’ll come to the Great Mosque. It has a
need to be accompanied by a guide. For fortresslike appearance; its main feature is
158 G HA R D A Ï A & T H E M ’ Z A B • • G h a r d a ï a Book accommodation online
lyplanet.com Book
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com G HA R D A Ï A & T H E M ’ Z A B • • G h a r d a ï a 159
the unadorned, pyramidal minaret, typical BUDGET feel than most. Rooms are clean and com- different towns of the M’Zab, check the qual-
of the mosques of the M’Zab. Hôtel Atlantide (x029 882536; av Ahmed Talbi; s & fortable with televisions, fridges and air-con ity closely as they can vary enormously; the
Also of interest is the town’s ancient d DA500) This place has bland rooms (nicer, and there’s a small terrace with a nice selec- better ones have more knots per square cen-
water distribution system in the palm groves quieter ones with air-con available for tion of cacti overlooking the main street. timetre. You can pick up a cheap synthetic
northwest of town, which was devised by DA1000) with shared bathrooms leading carpet here for as little as €10 but for a good-
the Mozabites as a solution to the region’s off blue and white mosaic-tiled corridors. TOP END quality rug expect to pay upwards of €50.
arid climate. Rainwater is stored in deep The best thing about this hotel is the restau- Hotel El-Djanoub (x029 885631/888987; fax 029 886
wells and then dispersed though a system rant downstairs which serves some of the 881; s/d DA3070/3886; pas) This is the only Getting There & Away
of underground channels, which divide the best roast chicken in town (see opposite). top-end hotel in Ghardaïa but it doesn’t AIR
flow so that it is fairly distributed among Hôtel Napht (x029 890832; place Andalouse; s/d really deserve that distinction. While it has Air Algérie (x029 884663; fax 029 887280) is in the
separate palm gardens. with fan from DA500/800) A good choice for those facilities such as swimming pool, air-con and town centre on rue Ahmed Talbi. The air-
You could also pay a visit to the Pères on a budget and is well located, right next satellite TV, the immense lobby and endless port is 10km south of town on the road to
Blancs (White Fathers; p50) at their her- to the old town and the taxi ranks. The 12 gloomy corridors reek of good times passed El-Goléa. There are three flights a week to
mitage near the old city. If it’s a conven- rooms are very basic and the owner’s fond- and the rooms are as bland as can be. Algiers (DA4600, 1½ hours), one to Taman-
ient time they will be happy to chat and ness for red light bulbs makes some of them rasset (DA9800, two hours 20 minutes)
to show you their library with its excellent feel a little seedy. There’s a small terrace Eating and one to Illizi (DA7300, two hours 10
collection of books about the Sahara. The overlooking the rooftops, where you can Pizzeria Aïssa (x029 882486; av du 1er Novembre; piz- minutes).
White Fathers were founded in the 1860s sleep in the summer if it gets too hot, but zas DA200; h9.30am-9.30pm) This is a very lively
by the then Archbishop of Algiers, Cardinal the view isn’t up to much. place – you can order takeaway pizzas at BUS
Charles Lavigerie, and have been in Alge- Hotel de la Palmeraie (x029 882312; av de ALN the front or sit in the back room. It costs The main gare routière is on rue Ahmed
ria since the 1870s. Today there are orders (Rte l’Oasis); s/d/tr without bathroom DA600/900/1000; DA100 to DA350 for a tasty thin-based Talbi, just across the Oued M’Zab and only
throughout the country; they are involved p) The rather grubby exterior on a busy pizza, and there’s also a separate family- five minutes’ walk from the town centre.
in inter-religious relations and taking care road doesn’t look very promising but inside friendly room if you want to get away from It is the departure point for long-distance
of local Christians and also participate in it is a different story. Simple, clean rooms the all-male atmosphere. taxis and the national TVSE buses as well
their local communities. with spotless shared showers open onto a Restaurant Atlantide (x029 882536; av Ahmed as several long-distance, private bus com-
lovely (despite the bright-pink walls) cen- Talbi; meals DA300; hlunch & dinner) Owned by the panies. It’s best to make reservations in
Festivals & Events tral courtyard filled with cacti, bougainvil- same people as the hotel upstairs, this place advance.
FÊTE DU TAPIS lea and palm trees. is clean and very friendly, drawing people The main destinations are Adrar
In March/April every year, a carpet festi- Hotel le Rym (x029 893202; av du 1er Novem- in from the street with a lip-smacking win- (DA1000, 11 hours), Algiers (DA650, seven
val takes place in Ghardaïa, in celebration bre; d/tr/from DA1200/1800; pa) This is a very dow display of grilled chickens and platters to eight hours), Annaba (DA920, 14 hours),
of the local carpet-making industry. More welcoming place. The rooms are nothing of herb-covered chips. It also does excellent Constantine (DA770, 10 hours), El-Goléa
than 200 people take part, representing al- special but are roomy and clean, and lead chorba (vegetable soup with noodles and (DA400, three hours), In Salah (DA800,
most 30 different wilaya (provinces) and off a bright airy corridor adorned with tra- meat), very fresh salads and zesty tagines. eight to nine hours), Ouargla (DA200, two
it’s a chance for vendors to show off their ditional carpets, paintings and photographs Restaurant le Palmier (x029 899038; av du 1er hours) and Timimoun (DA970, 10 hours)
wares as well as take part in competitions. of Algeria. There’s also a big terrace over- Novembre) This is the best and most estab- and Tamanrasset (DA1500, 19 to 20 hours).
THE GRAND ERGS
THE GRAND ERGS

looking the av du 1er Novembre and nearby lished restaurant in town. It has a very chic There are also several private bus compa-
GHARDAÏA &
GHARDAÏA &
Sleeping Melika. dining room – bright white walls with tra- nies with offices around the main bus sta-
There’s a good range of hotel accommoda- Hotel Tassili (x029 885583; fax 073 1182 80; av 1er ditional arts and crafts on display – and the tion, which tend to be more expensive. For
tion in Ghardaïa, mostly in the midrange Novembre; d/tr/apt DA1200/1800/2200; p) Another welcome is warm. There’s a three-course example Hadj Kouider (x072 092038/072, 290944)
sector with a couple of budget places thrown good choice with mosaic-tiled hallways and menu from DA950 as well as an à la carte at the main bus station charges DA2000 to
in. The best place to stay in town used to stairs, clean simple rooms and a groovy mix of European and Algerian food. Dishes Tamanrasset.
be the Hotel Rostemides, a sprawling white three-bed apartment with proper bath include bourek (beef-stuffed pastry rolls),
building perched on top of a hill with fan- (mosaic-tiled of course) and little private and tagines. It’s also one of the few places TAXI
tastic views over the town. Out of action for roof terrace. in Ghardaïa that serves alcohol. Share taxis leave from a stand next to the
several years, at the time of writing it was Hotel du Gare (x029 964315; rue Ahmed Talbi; s & d main gare routière and cover the same main
undergoing extensive renovations and was DA1400) A hop and a skip away from the gare Shopping destinations including Algiers (DA1000,
due to reopen in 2007. There are two camp- routière this place is convenient and reason- The greatest concentration of shops in seven hours), Tamanrasset (DA1500, 18 to 20
sites in Ghardaïa: Camping Bouleila about ably priced, with a selection of airy double Ghardaïa is around the market square where hours) and Ouargla (DA500, two hours).
1km southeast of the town centre on the rooms and very welcoming management. you’ll find all manner of things from elec-
El-Goléa road and Camping Oued M’Zab, There’s hot water in the winter. tronic goods and bootleg CDs to tourist- Getting Around
on the route out of town to the north. Al- oriented jewellery and crafts. There are also TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
though the sites are still reasonably well MIDRANGE a few souvenir shops along rue Emir Ab- The airport is 10km out of town on the El-
equipped they were closed at the time of Hôtel Izorane (x/fax 029 889238; carrefour Wilaya de delkader. If you are interested in buying any Goléa road. The only way to get into town
writing due to lack of custom. Check locally Ghardaïa; s/d 1200/1600; a) This small and very of the beautifully colourful rugs here, many from the airport is by taxi, which costs from
to see if the situation has changed. friendly place is a good choice with a cosier of which contain symbols representing the DA100 per person to the centre of town.
160 G HA R D A Ï A & T H E M ’ Z A B • • B e n i I s g u e n lonelyplanet.com Book
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com G HA R D A Ï A & T H E M ’ Z A B • • M e l i k a 161
BUS to have a guide, and you can pick one up at It is interesting to watch: as there are no well system. Reservations must be made
The station for the local buses is on rue this entry point. At the entrance to the town cafés in the town, it becomes the social in advance.
Emir Abdelkader just by the entrance to the is a sign reminding tourists that photogra- event of the day. Caravansérail Ghardaïa (x029 899702; www
old city. There are buses for Beni Isguen, phy and smoking are forbidden in the town, At the entrance to the town is the museum, .mzabtours.com; B&B/half/full board per person from
Bou Noura and El-Atteuf and journeys and modest dress is compulsory (no shorts which the guide will probably show you at DA1500/2500/3200; s) Owned by the proprie-
should cost around DA20. or bare shoulders). However, you will nor- the end of your tour. It is constructed in the tor of M’Zab Tours (see p156) this is an
mally be permitted to take photos as long style of a typical Mozabite home complete enchanting guesthouse in the heart of the
TAXI as there are no women passing. with examples of a kitchen, traditional re- palmeraie. It’s based around a centuries-old
You can also pick up local taxis at the local frigeration system, and marriage bedroom, traditional house and is a veritable war-
bus station. Short journeys around town Sights & Activities as well as some interesting carpet weaving ren of curved, low-ceilinged, white-walled
should cost around DA50. Alternatively it A guide costs DA200 and you can pick paraphernalia. rooms and terraces, constructed to be cool
is also possible to hire taxis by the hour for one up at the entrance to the town. The The palmeraie at Beni Isguen is probably in summer and warm in winter. Meals are
around DA400 to DA500. guide will show you all the interesting bits the best in the M’Zab. It stretches for a taken around low tables in a large dining
and pieces in Beni Isguen. The highlight is couple of kilometres behind the town. The room scattered with traditional carpets
BENI ISGUEN ‫ﺑﻨﻰإزﻗﻦ‬ the Turkish tower, Borj Cheikh el-Hadj (also gardens here are green havens, veritable and artefacts, or, in fine weather, outdoors
The town is built on the slope of the hill, known as Borj Boleila), in the western cor- gardens of Eden. They are difficult to see under the stars. There’s also a swimming
2.5km southeast of Ghardaïa. This is the ner of Beni Isguen, which you can climb properly, however, as they are mostly be- pool, for use during the summer months.
most important religious town in the up for stunning views over the town and hind high walls. Once behind the wall, the Full board is encouraged and in high season
M’Zab and also has an excellent reputa- beyond. Your guide will probably leave contrast is vivid – you’ll find every kind of half-board is obligatory. It can also arrange
tion for science and education. Constructed you at the marketplace, which has a few fruit here, from grapes and figs to bananas guides for visits to Ghardaïa and the sur-
in the 14th century, it’s also known for its shops nearby selling the colourful local and dates. rounding towns.
ramparts, which are 2.5km long and 3m rugs. The best time for a visit is in the late Maison Traditionnale Akham (x029 873127, 071
high. The people here hang on very firmly afternoon, when the market square comes Sleeping 774820; [email protected]; half/full board DA2400/
to their traditional ways, and the amount alive with the daily auction – the Marché There are no hotels in Beni Isguen itself, 3000) This place is larger than its neighbours
of outside influence is kept to an absolute à la Criée. The square is lined with stone as foreigners are not allowed to stay within and has an airier feel about it with multi-
minimum. benches where tourists and locals alike can the walls of the city. However a number of levelled pretty terraces, skylights and a
The town’s narrow streets are entered sit to observe the action. Those taking part guesthouses have sprung up over the past trellis-covered shady terrace and swimming
from the main Ghardaïa road. It is com- yell out the price of their item until some- few years in the palmeraie. They are based in pool. In the evenings the gardens are lit
pulsory for all tourists entering the town one buys it, or the price is brought down. traditional-style houses with simple rooms up with twinkling lights – built into the
and shared bathrooms. Those mentioned stairs and strung up between the trees – and
below are all within a five-minute walk of there’s an outdoor fireplace around which
THE MOZABITES each other. To get to the palmeraie just con- to congregate. It also has some less charm-
Mozabites are a close-knit group that practises a form of Islam known as Ibadi Islam (see the tinue on the road past the entrance to Beni ing rooms with fridges and bathrooms for
boxed text, p48). The Ibadis arrived in the M’Zab Valley in the 11th century after being driven from Isguen, where it winds around to the back those who want greater privacy.
their homes in the north; they chose the harshest and least accessible region they could in order of the palmeraie. Or you could get a bus to
THE GRAND ERGS
THE GRAND ERGS

to protect their community. The Ibadis of this region came to be known as the Mozabites. the palmeraie from outside the entrance to Getting There & Away
GHARDAÏA &
GHARDAÏA &
They’re a very traditional people who have managed to cling on to their unique lifestyle, the old city of Beni Isguen. The guesthouses Local buses leave Ghardaïa from the local
clothing, traditions and beliefs over the centuries. They have a strong network of community are difficult to find though, and not well bus station outside the entrance to the old
support, tend not to marry outside their religious group, and have special councils and assem- signposted so if you don’t have a car it’s best city and cost DA15. They drop you outside
blies to preside over their affairs. Traditionally, women stayed in the towns of the M’Zab even to arrange to be picked up from the bus sta- the gates to Beni Isguen. Alternatively, it’s
when their men left for the north to make their fortunes in business. This was to ensure that tion or airport. In any case, they all ask that a half-hour walk.
Mozabite men retained close ties with their towns and that their children were brought up within you make reservations in advance.
the M’Zab. Mozabite women would contribute to the economy by weaving carpets and wool Big Sun Maison d’Hôtes (x029 887616; s/d B&B MELIKA ‫ﻣﻠﻴۃ‬
garments to send to their men to sell. from DA1500/2000) This is owned by Big Sun It is from Melika that you get the best over-
Today, Mozabites are still well known for being astute merchants; many of them have migrated Destination (see p156). It is a smaller and all views of the Oued M’Zab and Ghardaïa
to Algiers and now own businesses there, in France and further afield. Even while abroad they more intimate place than the Caravansérail itself. The town is about a kilometre to the
retain close ties with Ghardaïa and continue to contribute to the life of their community, return- (but just as pretty) with a laid-back atmos- southeast of Ghardaïa, high above the oued.
ing regularly to the M’Zab Valley from wherever they are in the world. phere; the owner encourages you to strip The main point of interest is the curious
Those who have remained in the M’Zab are still fairly conservative, particularly the older yourself of your watch and mobile phone cemetery on the northern side of the town
generation. Traditions are strong here, and many of the people (especially the women) still wear and the emphasis here is on generating where Sidi Aïssa and his family are buried.
traditional dress. For men that means white tunic, baggy pants and white hat, but the effect of an understanding of Mozabite culture. At It’s a series of eerie white tombs with coni-
the women’s outfits is altogether more ghostly, and one of the first things you’ll notice about a the time of writing Big Sun was in the cal structures, almost like turrets, pointing
visit to this region. Walk around the streets of the M’Zab, particularly in Beni Isguen, and you’ll process of building a traditional Bedouin towards the sky.
see women shrouded from head to toe in white fabric, revealing nothing but a single eye. camp complete with organic fruit and veg As the story goes, Sidi Aïssa was a Malak-
garden, a camel, goats and a tradition ite Muslim who converted to Ibadism after
162 G R A N D E R G O CC I D E N TA L • • A ï n S e f r a lonelyplanet.com Book
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a dream in which he saw three cemeter-

ies. The first was surrounded by flames and GRAND ERG OCCIDENTAL ISABELLE EBERHARDT
smoke and, he believed, was that of the Jews;
‫اﻟﻌﺮق اﻟﻐﺮﺑﻲ اﻟﺒﻴﺮ‬
It almost sounds too strange too be true: Isabelle Eberhardt was the cross-dressing, hard-drinking,
the second was a Malakite cemetery which illegitimate child of the widow of a Russian general and her Armenian-born lover, who travelled
emitted groans of pain; and the third cem- solo through Algeria on horseback and drowned in the middle of the desert.
etery, which he believed was the cemetery One of the two great sand seas, the Grand She was born in Switzerland in 1877. Her mother had moved from Russia to Geneva four years
of the Ibadis, was bathed in a serene light. Erg Occidental occupies an enormous area previously – along with her children and the children’s tutor, anarchist ex-priest Alexandre Tro-
After an argument with Melika’s chief, Sidi south of the Saharan Atlas Mountains in phimowsky – for a period of convalescence, a few months after which her husband, the Russian
Aïssa shut himself away, refusing to receive the west of Algeria. Anywhere else this General Pavel de Moerder, died of a heart attack. When Isabelle arrived, she was registered as
guests, until his death. After his death, the would constitute a sizeable desert in its illegitimate, her mother never admitting to her family, or to Isabelle herself, that Trophimowsky
people of Melika, who were very fond of own right, but in the Sahara things are a was in fact her father.
him, decided to build a magnificent tomb. bit different. Some of the most beautiful Isabelle was given a diverse education, Trophimowsky teaching her Arabic and several other
oases in the country are to be found here. languages, as well as metaphysics and chemistry. Even at this early age, her rebellious streak was
Getting There & Away What’s more, the excellent sealed roads apparent and she would sometimes dress as a boy to see what freedoms this would allow her.
The easiest way up to Melika is on foot make them very accessible; given a week In 1897, Isabelle went to Algeria for the first time, along with her mother, to visit her brother
from Ghardaïa. It takes about 30 minutes or more you could drive (or bus) around who had been stationed there. They were both seduced by the local culture and religion and
to make the climb, and the best route is the and visit a diverse selection of these desert ended up converting to Islam.
road which leads south opposite the main towns. Isabelle’s mother died suddenly and Isabelle returned temporarily to Europe but was soon
gare routière. It is also possible to cross the Unlike what you might expect, not all pulled back to Algeria. She had a particularly good understanding of Arab culture and politics,
oued anywhere and just scramble up the oases are the same – highlights of this re- and could speak and write the language fluently, helped by the unconventional education given
side of the hill. gion include the mud-red fortress of Taghit, her by Trophimowsky. She adopted the persona of an Arab man, calling herself ‘Si Mahmoud
dwarfed by the looming dunes behind it; the Essadi’, and travelled alone all over the Sahara on horseback, even ending up working for a time
EL-ATTEUF ‫اﻟﻌﻄﻒ‬ white crumbling buildings and laid-back as a journalist covering military campaigns around Béchar.
El-Atteuf is the oldest city of the M’Zab charm of Beni Abbès; and Timimoun – It was well known that she was a woman – she was sexually adventurous and had a whole
and it costs DA200 for a guide, who you nicknamed ‘the red’ after its vast red salt host of lovers – yet she was accepted as a man by the local Algerians. In El-Oued in 1900 she fell
can pick up at the office of the Association lake and ochre buildings – with its strangely in love with Slimene Ehnni, a young soldier, whom she would go on to marry a year later. He put
Tadjnint pour le Tourisme at l’Artisanat El- shaped, porcupine-spiked constructions. up with her affairs as well as her bouts of drunkenness and fondness for hashish.
Atteuf Ghardaïa (x029 875038; tadjnint@caramail The real stars of the show, though, are the In 1904, after seeking hospital treatment for malaria in Aïn Sefra, on the edges of the Sahara
.com). The main reason to come to El-Atteuf is sands themselves. You could trek through Desert, Isabelle’s short life came to an end when she was drowned in a freak flash flood. Her
to see the mosque of Sidi Brahim. Some 700 years them (with camel or without), ski down body was found two days later, stuck under a wooden beam. She is buried in the town’s Muslim
old, it’s a simple white building complete them, spend the night out under the stars cemetery.
with curved walls, arches and inclined pillars using the nearest dune as a pillow or simply Isabelle wrote about her travels in many books (see p15) and French newspapers, and her
made from palm trunks. It contains the re- gaze out in awe at their changing colours diaries also make interesting reading.
mains of Sidi Brahim, a Muslim scholar, and and seemingly never-ending expanse.
is said to have inspired the French architect
THE GRAND ERGS
THE GRAND ERGS

Le Corbusier to build a church in a similar AÏN SEFRA ‫ﻋﻴﻦ ﺳﻔﺮة‬ Information mountains behind. The best way to get here
GHARDAÏA &
GHARDAÏA &
fashion in France: the Chapel Notre-Dame- This town at the foot of the Saharan Atlas Roads into town from both the south and is by car or on foot; ask locally for direc-
du-Haut in Ronchamp. Mountains is the gateway to the desert from the north lead directly to the town centre, tions. There’s normally a caretaker there
the northwest and is about as far north as situated around the dry riverbed. There and he’ll be happy to show you her grave.
Getting There & away you will find sand dunes on this side of the are several cafés, groceries and taxiphone
El-Atteuf is 9km away from Ghardaïa so country. bureaus as well as a Banque Nationale Sleeping
is a bit of a walk. Take bus 30 from the As you approach the town from the d’Algérie and a Banque de l’Agriculture et Hotel el-Hidab (x049 761722/061, 260123; s/d/tr
local bus station outside the old town in north, it looks like a big, dusty building site du Développement Rural. Buses drop you DA600/700/1000) In the centre of town, close
Ghardaïa. It costs DA15 and takes about and the multicoloured apartment blocks by off at the gare routière near the northern to the river. It has clean simple rooms with
10 to 15 minutes. the side of the road must rate as some of the entrance of Aïn Sefra from where it’s a sinks, and friendly service. There are toilets
worst eyesores in the country. Turning into short walk into town. The main post office in the corridor but to take a shower you’ll
BOU NOURA ‫ﺑﻮﻧﻮرة‬ the town itself, however, you see that it is is over the river from the town centre on the have to use the public showers on the floor
Four kilometres away from Ghardaïa, Bou a likeable little place with wide, tree-lined road heading up to the Hotel el-Mekhter. below, which cost DA50 a pop.
Noura is less interesting than and not as streets and a convivial atmosphere. Hotel el-Mekhter (x049 771771; fax 762897; s & d
well maintained as the other towns. Its Perhaps the most famous thing about Sights DA2050; as)The only tourist-class accom-
main point of interest is its construction. Aïn Sefra is that it was here that the young The Muslim cemetery where Isabelle Eber- modation is around 1.5km out of town,
The walls of the city seem to rise out of the writer and adventurer Isabelle Eberhardt was hardt is buried is located on the outskirts across the river from the town centre and
rocks on which they were built. To get here drowned 1904, when a flash flood swept away of the western side of town. The cemetery signposted past the military barracks. The
take a bus from the local outside the old houses and their occupants. See the boxed has a wild, romantic feel about it, its sway- place is rather rough around the edges and
town of Ghardaïa. text, opposite, for further information. ing grasses framed by the rising dunes and has obviously seen better days. It is nicely
164 G R A N D E R G O CC I D E N TA L • • B e n i O u n i f Book accommodation online
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situated, however, backed up against a sand Getting There & Away Sleeping & Eating TRAIN
dune on the edge of town, and the multi- TO/FROM MOROCCO Béchar Hostel (x049 810844; Cite Riadi; dm DA150) There were no passenger trains to Béchar at
levelled, wood-beamed rooms, though ram- The road to Morocco leaves the main road Signposted off the Taghit road. Looks fine the time of writing.
shackle, are quite appealing. They look out south of town and the (currently closed) from the outside but is run down and spar-
onto the dunes behind or open out onto border post is about 1.5km away through tan with rather cramped dorms and the TAXI
terraces overlooking the swimming pool the gap in the mountains. showers aren’t the cleanest. There’s a large taxi brousse (shared taxi)
and courtyard. There’s a restaurant, but it From here, it’s another few hundred Hotel Maghreb Arabe (x049 815535; 5 Hai Es- station in an area called Cité Kharassa at
doesn’t open if there aren’t enough guests; metres to the Moroccan side – from where Salem; s & d DA2000, without shower DA1500; a) Op- the southern end of town. Destinations
breakfast, which is always available, is in- it’s a further few kilometres to Figuig. If the posite the new bus station on the Taghit include Algiers (DA1200, 10 hours), Oran
cluded in the price of the room. border reopens the whole crossing should road, this is a large three-story place with (DA1000, eight hours) and Timimoun
take about half a day. a good restaurant, air-con, spotless rooms (DA700, five to six hours).
Getting There & Away and a very friendly patron who is happy to
There are buses north to Algiers (DA650, BUS dole out advice about worthwhile sights in TAGHIT ‫ﺗﻐﻴﺖ‬
eight to nine hours), Oran (DA500, four to There is no bus station here; all the buses the region. Pronounced ‘Ta-rit’, this small oasis vil-
five hours) and Tlemcen (DA400, three to just stop outside the Hôtel Afrique. You Hotel Antar (x049 817161/63; antarhotel@egtouest lage 90km south of Béchar has some of the
four hours), and south to Béchar (DA400, have to be lucky to get a seat at times. .com; s/d from DA2100/2500, ste DA10,000; a) Sign- most spectacular scenery in the Grand Erg
three hours). posted just off the main road 1km towards Occidental. The dunes tower over the east-
TRAIN Beni Abbès, this place has air-con rooms ern edge of the town, and the view as you
BENI OUNIF ‫ﺑﻨﻲ وﻧﻴﻒ‬ The train station is just near the shops in looking out onto an interior garden but it come over the hill from the west, of the old
This totally unremarkable little border the centre of the town. There are currently feels soulless and neglected. The one up side ksar (fortified stronghold), tiny against this
town used to give travellers coming from no passenger trains stopping at Beni Ounif, is the spacious and deliciously kitsch suite, great theatrical backdrop, is magnificent.
Morocco their first glimpse of Algeria, but although an option will become available complete with 70s-style patterned sofas, a The old mud-brick part of the village is
since the closure of the border, it sees much when the new Oran–Béchar service opens plastic tree, fake miniature stalactites de- dominated by the ksar, which is currently
less trade. The town is small – only about in 2007/2008. scending from the ceiling and a scary-look- being restored – this section of the village
half a kilometre from one end to the other, ing horse mural. is a real maze of winding lanes, and the red
centred on one long main street – so there’s BÉCHAR ‫ﺑﺸﺎر‬ L’Oscar Restaurant Familial (x040 851009; 151 mud architecture is typical of this part of
no difficulty in finding things. This is a modern, sprawling administrative av de 05 Juillet; mains DA700-1200) One of the most the Sahara.
There are two banks here, a Banque Nation- town and capital of the Saoura region (as popular places in town, known for its fish
ale d’Algérie and a Banque de l’Agriculture this corner of the Sahara is known). It has specialities – it serves excellent grilled king Orientation & Information
et du Développement Rural, both off the not much to recommend it, but you will prawns and paella, as well as French meat There is only one entrance to the town and
main drag, but neither exchange travellers probably find yourself stopping for a night dishes such as steak au poivre (black pep- as you arrive you’ll see the town spread out
cheques. There’s also a petrol station. here on the way through. per steak). before you on the hill against the dunes. On
The road between here and Béchar still From Béchar, the road heads southwest entering the town, continue straight ahead
bears some of the few remaining signs of for 100km before curving around the west- Getting There & Away to reach the main square, the place des Mar-
the battle for Algerian independence. Right ern corner of the Grand Erg Occidental. AIR tyrs. If arriving by bus you’ll be deposited
THE GRAND ERGS
THE GRAND ERGS

along this border, some distance in from The N50 heads west from here for the The airport is 7km north of town and local here. Around the square you’ll find the post
GHARDAÏA &
GHARDAÏA &
the actual line, the French built a continu- 800km journey to Tindouf in the far west buses make the trip out there. There are office and the Hôtel Taghit. The road to
ous barrier of barbed wire some 5m wide. of the country. This route into Maurita- weekly flights to Algiers (DA7200, 1½ the left leads to the camp site and youth
The whole section was patrolled by soldiers nia has been closed due to the war in the hours) and Oran (DA4700, two hours). hostel as well as a few general stores and
stationed at forts, each built in sight of the Western Sahara. Tindouf is the main base cheap cafés. There’s a Naftal service station
next, and the line was more than 1000km for the Polisario fighters, who are actively BUS at the entrance to the town but Taghit has
long on this side of the country. The idea, supported by Algeria. It is out of bounds The spanking new gare routière is about no bank.
largely successful, was to isolate the Alge- to foreigners. 1.5km north of town on the Taghit road,
rian nationalists from any support from just after the turning to the airport. Time- Sights & Activities
Morocco. Most of the forts are still there Information tables are displayed, and there’s a restau- The 30-minute climb up the dunes to expe-
today; so is much of the barbed wire. There’s a Banque Nationale d’Algérie and rant, bank, newsstand, taxiphone shop and rience the jaw-dropping view is a must. The
a Banque de l’Agriculture et du Développe- pharmacy. Most of the buses heading north sand sea stretches out to the east, while the
Sleeping ment Rural here, and this is the last major travel in the late afternoon and evening be- oasis, its river and palm groves are spread
Hôtel Afrique (x049 842090/074 821328; rue FLN Route town in which you can stock up on things cause this is one of the hottest areas in the out before you to the west. Take a lead from
No 06; s/d DA300/600) This is the only place to stay for the route south. The Air Algérie (x049 country. the local kids and have a slide down a dune
in town and although nondescript it is clean 830060) office is on the Aïn Sefra side of place The main destinations are Adrar (DA550, on a piece of tin or cardboard.
and welcoming. There are 11 simple and airy de la République on av de 05 Juillet. The six hours), Algiers (DA1000, 11 hours), A walk among the winding streets, cov-
rooms overlooking the main street, and a central market has a fair selection of fruit, Beni Abbès (DA350, three hours), Taghit ered alleyways and cool houses of the old
decent restaurant. The next closest accom- vegetables and meat. It’s next to the mosque (DA150, one hour), Timimoun (DA550, six ksar is another highlight. Built around a
modation is at Béchar, 114km to the south. with the large minaret on av Colonel Lotfi. hours) and Tlemcen (DA600, 6½ hours). central mosque, this ancient town was
166 G R A N D E R G O CC I D E N TA L • • B e n i A b b è s Book accommodation online
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constructued in around the 9th century Getting There & Away is filled by beautifully clear spring water on the surface. This system of channels,
from mud, stone and palm trunks. There are two buses daily to Beni Abbès and is in a paved enclosure. now superseded by more modern meth-
If you’ve got a car, there are some rock (DA250, two hours), two to Béchar (DA150, The other obvious sight is the dunes. Take ods, once stretched for more than 2000km
engravings nearby, a 15-minute drive out one hour) and one to Timimoun (DA450, a scramble up them in the late afternoon in this area.
of town. Take the road south out past the four to five hours). There’s not much traf- when the light is at its best.
camp site and youth hostel and keep follow- fic in either direction, although both roads The museum is about 100m along the Orientation & Information
ing the road past the palmeraie. The paved are sealed. Buses leave from the place des track to the left from the main road along The centre of town is an absolutely enor-
road ends abruptly in front of a rock face Martyrs in the town centre. the oued, and then up the first street on mous main square, the place des Martyrs –
where you’ll find some good examples of the right. It has an interesting selection of you could just about land a plane on it!
rock carvings – mostly antelope and cattle – BENI ABBÈS ‫ﺑﻨﻲ ﻋﺒﺎس‬ desert fauna and flora, and a display of tra- Around it are the main buildings: the
in front of you. On the drive there, look Another beautiful oasis town, Beni Abbès ditional life in the region. banks, post office, Air Algérie (x049 969365)
to your right and you’ll see the crumbling is built on the edge of an escarpment, so it and the main hotel, the Hôtel Touat. Inside
remains of 15th-century towns built into looks down on the palmeraie and the oued, Sleeping the hotel you’ll find AHNET Voyages (x049
the hillside. and like Taghit it’s framed with a chain of There’s a small palm-shaded camp site next 964026; [email protected]) which organ-
For visits to the local rock carvings, impossibly high dunes. It has a romantic air to La Source, which was undergoing reno- ises tours in the region and beyond. The
nights bivouacking on the dunes, camel about it with faded crumbling white turret- vations at the time of writing. local tourist office seems to serve primarily
treks and even skiing (yes, with proper topped buildings, streets lined with peeling Hôtel Rym (x049 824203; [email protected]; as a craft shop and can’t provide any useful
skis!) on the dunes contact Abdelkader Sahli white arches, and a vibrant green ribbon of s/d from DA1700/2200; pas) This hotel sits information about Adrar or travel in the
(x040 853711/090 504352), self-titled ‘director palm groves below. There’s not much in the at the foot of the dunes. It’s a multilevelled region. There’s an internet café in the Mai-
general’ of the desert. Guides can also be way of formal attractions here, but there’s behemoth, beautifully situated with many son de la Culture on the main square, and
arranged at the Hôtel Taghit. a nice old ksar to wander around and an rooms looking out onto the dunes. At its a hospital to the east of the square.
interesting museum. Beni Abbès was also peak it must have been splendid but sadly
Sleeping & Eating the site where Charles de Foucauld (p189) it’s been very neglected and much of it is in Sights
Camping Taghit (DA150) Close to the centre of chose to build his first hermitage, which a state of disrepair. Adrar doesn’t hold a great deal for tour-
town, on the road heading south, right up still exists today. ists, however it’s worth wandering through
against the sand dunes. There are basic toi- Getting There & Away the place des Martyrs, if only to appreciate its
lets and showers, a kitchen, and plans to Orientation & Information The bus station is up by the market. size and interesting architecture. The build-
construct some zeribas (palm huts). On entering the town across the oued, the There are twice-daily departures to Béchar ings that encircle it include an impressive
Youth hostel (x049 863131; dm DA100) Next to track to the right just before the shops leads (DA350, three hours), and buses leave once mosque, and four large red mud archways,
the camp site, the town’s auberge de jeu- to the palmeraie, which has an ancient ksar a day for Adrar (DA350, three hours) and studded with wooden spikes, marking the
nesse is a simple place with four-bed dorms and an excellent swimming pool. Timimoun (DA400, three to four hours). main entrance points to the square.
and a nice central courtyard, and all rooms To the left, the road leads to the lit- All these buses pass through Beni Abbès
have balconies with view of the dunes. tle museum, the Musée Saharien, owned en route from somewhere else, so seats are Sleeping & Eating
Hôtel Taghit (x049 863183; taghithotel@egtouest by the Centre National de Recherches not guaranteed. Auberge de Jeunesse (x049 964250; fax 969212; dm
.com; s/d DA1500/2000) You can’t miss the Hôtel Sahariennes. There is also a bus to Taghit every morn- DA100) Well located just opposite the bus
THE GRAND ERGS
THE GRAND ERGS

Taghit, as it’s the only big building in the The road straight ahead leads up the es- ing (DA250, two hours). station, this hostel has a large garden, a
GHARDAÏA &
GHARDAÏA &
village. The outside looks like a palatial carpment past a small row of shops, and friendly atmosphere and four-bed dorms
villa and the communal spaces, including then forks. Up to the right lies the market, ADRAR ‫ادرار‬ opening out onto a central courtyard.
a garden and a bright mosaic-tiled lobby, several cheap, nondescript cafés, bus sta- Adrar is a major regional capital 120km Hôtel Timmi (x049 960617; s/d from DA410/700)
are lovely, but the rooms are a different tion, post office and defunct Hôtel Grand south of the road which rings the Grand One block from the main square these
story – with malfunctioning TVs, lumpy Erg, while to the left is the Hôtel Rym, a Erg Occidental. There isn’t much of inter- rooms are simple, clean and friendly but
mattresses and run-down bathrooms. Un- Banque d’Agriculture et du Développement est here, and the only reason you’d pass nothing to write home about. The reception
fortunately, it’s the only hotel in town. Rural and the dunes. through would be on your way to the Mal- is full of photos and maps of Adrar and its
Association du Vieux Ksar (x 040 853683; ian border or In Salah. Its uniform brick- surrounds, and the staff can advise you on
[email protected]; r from DA1900) For a differ- Sights red colour is interesting though and its further travel. You can pay extra for TV and
ent and very atmospheric experience you The track into the palmeraie leads past the central square is notable too, if only for air-conditioning.
could rent a room in a house, or indeed old mud-brick ksar off to the right. This its gargantuan size. Because the square is Complexe Touristique Mraguen (x 049 967
a whole house in the old ksar – these are dates from the last century and is now grad- so big, the midday sun here is blinding, 625/29; www.ctm-adrar.com; s/d from DA1500/2000;
beautiful and simple traditional houses dat- ually returning to the earth. and you need to follow the local example pas) Ten kilometres out of town on
ing back as far as the 9th century. Facili- Beyond the ksar and beneath the stone and retreat somewhere cooler. The town is the road north of Adrar, this is a sprawl-
ties are basic, but sitting out on an ancient water tower on the edge of the escarpment virtually deserted in the afternoon. ing complex with bamboo-covered walk-
roof terrace watching the sunset over the is a small swimming pool, known as La On the way into the town from the north, ways, mini waterfall, a traditional area for
dunes and communing with the ghosts of Source. It is a cool, green retreat from the keep an eye out for signs of the fouggara music displays, a small ‘zoo’ with several
the past is an experience you won’t forget blinding desert all around. A few trees and (underground water channels), identifiable gazelles and some sorry-looking chickens
in a hurry. bougainvillea give shade to the pool, which above ground by the lines of small wells and turkeys, and rooms decorated with
168 G R A N D E R G O CC I D E N TA L • • A d r a r Book accommodation online
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G R A N D E R G O CC I D E N TA L • • Ti m i m o u n 169
ADRAR 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
Being a fairly important regional town, of the region is Zénète, a Berber dialect simi-
Adrar is well served by plane. There are lar to those of the Kabylie and the M’Zab.
To Complexe Touristique Mraguen (9km);
four departures a week to Algiers (DA9700,
INFORMATION Airport (12km);
El-Goléa (380km);
three hours), two to Oran (DA8000, two Orientation
13
Banque de l'Agriculture et du
Developpment Rural........1 B4
Béchar (620km) hours 20 minutes) and one a week to Borj The town is small and easily negotiated.
Banque Nationale d'Algérie..2 B4 12 Mokhtar (DA9000, two hours) and Ouargla There is one long main street, the av du 1er
Hospital...............................3 D4
Maison de la Culture............4 B3
18 (DA6600, two hours). Novembre, around which banks, the tourist
Post Office..........................5 C4 office and shops are located. If you arrive
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
BUS by bus or taxi you will be dropped off here.
Arch....................................6 C3 The bus station is about 1km north of the West of the av du 1er Novembre is the old
Arch....................................7 B4
Arch.................................... 8 C4 main square. The large depot is also the ksar, the palmeraie and the dunes.
Arch.....................................9 B3 graveyard for quite a few broken-down
Market..............................10 C4
Mosque.............................11 B3 Mercedes trucks and buses. Information
20 19 As all the departures originate here, it is MONEY
SLEEPING
Auberge de Jeunesse.........12 D1 possible (and advisable) to book tickets the There is a branch of the Banque Nation-
Hotel Université Africaine...13
Hôtel Timmi.......................14
D1
B4
day before you plan to leave. Main destina- ale d’Algérie opposite the post office and
Hôtel Touat ......................15 C3 tions include Béchar (DA550, six hours), a Banque de Développement Local about
EATING
Reggane (DA300, two hours), Ghardaïa halfway along the main street.
Restaurant Tassili................16 B3 (DA1000, 11 hours) and In Salah (DA600,
TRANSPORT
six to seven hours). POST
AHNET Voyages..............(see 15) If the bus to In Salah is not running, it is The post office is close to the rounda-
Air Algérie.........................17 C3
Bus Station.........................18 D1 21
possible to get there by taking the daily bus bout, on the road that connects the main
Long-Distance Taxis...........19 B2 to Reggane and changing there. street with the main road from Adrar to
Naftal Service Station.........20 B2
Naftal Service Station.........21 D3
11 16 There is no direct bus to Borj Mokhtar, El-Goléa.
9
on the Malian border, and crossing the
border here was inadvisable at the time of TRAVEL AGENCIES
4
Pl des
15 writing. The tourist office is in the municipality
Martyrs 6
7
17
building, near the roundabout on the main
10 TAXI street. It can organise guides from DA1000
14 8
Shared taxis run regularly to Timimoun per day. It also has a small exhibition room
2
1
3 (DA400, two hours) from beneath the tree and may be able to provide a map of the
5 close to the Naftal service station near Sebkha Circuit.
the truck park, 10 minutes’ walk from the Agence Mer de Sable (x049 902595; www.agence
centre of town. -merdesable.com) is owned by the same people
that run the camp site (see p170) and ar-
THE GRAND ERGS
THE GRAND ERGS

TIMIMOUN ‫ﺗﻴﻤﻴﻤﻴﻮن‬ ranges tours in Timimoun and beyond.
GHARDAÏA &
GHARDAÏA &
If you can stop at only one of the oases
around the Grand Erg Occidental, make it Sights & Activities
bright traditional fabrics. Unfortunately pending on how you look at it) thing about Timimoun. It’s an enchanting place, full of The town lends itself well to photography;
the place is desolate – you can practically this hotel is the large courtyard, which fills distinctive red mud buildings studded with just walking up and down the main street
see the tumbleweed rolling down the empty with hundreds of twittering, swooping wooden spikes, and surrounded by ancient you’ll see plenty of possibilities, with the red
corridors. birds at dawn and dusk. villages. The residents are very friendly and buildings and the koubba (domed tomb)
Hôtel Université Africaine (x049 968825/31; fax Restaurant Tassili (place des Martyrs; h11am-8pm) it’s one of the nicest places in the Sahara. in the middle of the road, and wandering
049 968894; s/d DA1800/2300; pa) The newest One of several identikit restaurants in the Perhaps the best thing about Timimoun round the main avenue you catch glimpses
hotel in Adrar has mosaic-tastic corridors town centre selling grills, stews and cous- is its location – the town is built on the edge of the salt lake and dunes though the gaps
and reception, and the large rooms come cous. At least this place has the advantage of an escarpment, and there are fantastic in between the buildings.
complete with fridge, TV and natty tiger- of opening out onto the main square, mak- views out over an ancient salt lake to the The Hôtel de l’Oasis Rouge (av du 1er Novembre;
motif velour bedspreads. There’s also enough ing it a good place for coffee and people- sand dunes in the distance; on a bright, admission free;h 8am-noon & 3-7pm, closed Friday),
parking for a monster truck convention. watching. moonlit night the effect is magical. originally constructed by colonial mission-
Hôtel Touat (x 049 960425/969933; hoteltouat The population of the town and the sur- aries in the early 1900s, is a fine old building
[email protected]; place des Martyrs; s/d from DA2621/3234; Getting There & Away rounding area is a real mix: the Haratine and it is worth a wander around inside to see
pa) Located on the place des Martyrs, AIR (non-Negroid Blacks), the Zénète Berbers, the arched hallways, the courtyard and the
this place has large, spotless rooms with an The airport is 13km north of the town cen- the Chaamba Arabs (originally from the walls, which are decorated with traditional
unfortunate choice of clashing décor and tre and a taxi is the only way to get out east) and the Black Africans (descendants of designs. It also contains a one-room mu-
a good restaurant. The best (or worst, de- there. Malian slaves). The predominant language seum with a small collection of local fabrics,
170 G R A N D E R G O CC I D E N TA L • • Ti m i m o u n Book accommodation online
lyplanet.com Book
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com G R A N D E R G O CC I D E N TA L • • E l - G o l é a 171
paintings, pottery and basket weaving, most Sleeping (not 1.5km as the sign claims!). Alterna- including plum, peach, apricot, cherry, orange
of which is for sale. Another fine example of BUDGET tively it’s a 30-minute walk along a footpath and fig. The market here has the last decent
Timimoun’s architecture is the ornate Porte Camping la Palmeraie (x049 900956, 074 239617; which leads from av du 1er Novembre (near produce on the southward route, so stock up.
du Soudan, also constructed during colonial DA250 per person; p) Centrally located next the mosque) to the back of the camp site. Be
times and oriented towards the south. to the Hôtel Gourara with clean ablutions, sure to reserve in advance. Orientation & Information
A stroll round the daily market is also a hot water, a dining hut and a kitchen. The The road in from Timimoun will lead you
good way to pass the time if only for the in- owner can organise camel rides, hiking, tra- Eating to the main square – known as place Centre
toxicating smell of wonderfully fresh herbs ditional folk evenings and the like. There are a few cafés and restaurants along Ville – which contains a bank, post office,
and spices. Youth hostel (x/fax 049 902581; dm DA100) Ten the main road. You could try Restaurant local taxi and bus stops and several cafés.
Down towards the palmeraie, along the minutes’ walk north of town along av du E Rahma, opposite the Hôtel de l’Oasis South of the square is the town’s main
road to the camp site, the old section of 1er Novembre this hostel has spartan four- Rouge, for rotisserie chicken and chips, as market behind which you’ll find Place Mo-
town is a maze of dusty alleys and ochre to six-bed dorms, a café, a lounge with table well as local specialities. Restaurant Djud- hammed V where long-distance buses and
houses. The palmeraie itself is cool and football, and terrace with fine views over jura, also on the main road, has plenty of taxis pull up. There’s an internet café (per hr
shady, and the individual plots are divided the dunes on which one can sleep in fine outside tables from which to soak up the DA80; h10am-noon & 4-8pm, closed Friday) on av 1er
by mud-brick walls. Enter by the road weather. The bathrooms could be cleaner atmosphere of the streets. Novembre off place Centre Ville.
which leads from the main roundabout though.
down past the high school to the camp site Hotel Moulay el-Houcine (x 049 902083; fax Shopping Sights & Activities
and Hôtel Gourara. 900897; s/d from DA600/1000) Just off the main As well as the market, there are a few tour- The town is dominated by the old ksar, El-
road, opposite the Hôtel de l’Oasis Rouge, ist shops along the main street and both Menia, built on a rocky knoll in the east of
SEBKHA CIRCUIT this place has pretty dull rooms but makes the tourist office and the Hôtel de l’Oasis town. It was built by Zénète Berbers in the
If you have access to a vehicle, the Circuit de up for it with the warm welcome and the Rouge have items for sale. Be sure to look 10th century and is now being restored. It’s
Sebkha, also known as the Gourara Circuit, great big roof terrace with views over the out for roses de sable, which you’ll see here. well worth the scramble up the hill to soak
is an absolute must. This is a 75km loop to town centre and the market. They’re natural rock sculptures in the shape up its atmosphere and get grand views of
the north of Timimoun, skimming the flat of roses, exactly as found in the sand. the town and surrounding oasis.
red salt lake and taking in some mighty fine MIDRANGE The other sight worth seeing is the re-
scenery; you’ll see clusters of little oasis vil- Hôtel Gourara (x049 902627; gourarahotel@etouest Getting There & Away mote Eglise Saint-Joseph, some 3km north
lages and ruined ksar clinging to rock faces. .com; s/d from DA1000/1500) Built by Fernand AIR of El-Goléa; a dreamy looking cream and
Highlights of this circuit include the deep Pouillon in the 1950s the Gourara is slightly The Air Algérie (x049 904555) office is on the white church, set among sand and waving
red caves where the locals still come for dilapidated these days, but what it lacks in main square. The airport is 8km to the palms, next to which you’ll find the tomb
siestas during the blinding heat of summer, up-to-date comforts in makes up for in ro- southeast of town and a taxi costs DA50 of Charles de Foucauld where his body was
the old ruined town of Tindjillet balanced on mantic atmosphere. Slap bang on the edge per person. There are flights to Algiers and buried in 1929 (see the boxed text, p189, for
the edge of an escarpment, and Tasfaoud, a of the escarpment, many of the rooms have Oran. further details).
small oasis with a 13th-century castle. dramatic views over the salt lake and dunes Back towards the town centre, the well-
(be sure to ask) and the wide semicircular BUS maintained Musée Communale (x029 913122/
Festivals & Events terrace is a great place to nurse a cold drink Buses leave from the main street, almost 076 383125; h9am-noon & 3-6pm) opposite the
THE GRAND ERGS
THE GRAND ERGS

S’BOU DE TIMIMOUN and watch the sun go down. opposite the mosque. It is possible to book Hotel el-Boustane is dedicated to the pal-
GHARDAÏA &
GHARDAÏA &
For seven days and seven nights the resi- Camping Roses de Sable (x049 902595; www in advance on only some of the services, aeontology and geology of the region, and
dents of the Gourara region hold celebra- .agence-merdesable.com; huts per person DA2500, r with/ as most are just passing through and don’t has an interesting collection of fossils and
tions marking the birth of the prophet without bathroom per person DA3000/2800; hclosed May- originate in Timimoun. ancient pottery and stone tools, as well
Mohammed. The S’bou Festival marks the Oct) This is a lovely place set in a large garden There are daily services from Timimoun as written information on prehistory and
seventh day of the celebrations. During this where you can sleep in a zeriba under the to Adrar (DA250, two hours), Béchar mineralogy.
time the inhabitants of the Gourara region shade of a palm tree or in a room (each one (DA550, six hours) and Ghardaïa (DA970,
as well as thousands of worshippers from named after an oasis in the region) in the 10 hours). Sleeping
around the country descend on Timimoun. pretty bungalow at the back. Delicious meals Hôtel Vieux Ksar (x029 814310; s/d without bath-
During the day the streets are deserted but are served up daily by the wife and daugh- TAXI room from DA500/800; p) On the road south of
at night they’re full to the brim as people ters of the owner (prices quoted here include Taxis brousse leave from just next to the El-Goléa, 30 minutes’ walk from the cen-
come to spend the night in prayer. full board), and there’s a fantastic multi- bus station. The main destination is Adrar tre of town, this place has quiet well-kept
Its origins lie five centuries ago when Sidi levelled terrace with awesome 360-degree (DA400, two hours). rooms off a network of bright corridors
el-Hadj Belkacem, a local marabout (holy views of the surrounding landscape. Even and a nice garden at the back – all green
man), had a dream in which the Prophet better is the location; walk out of the front EL-GOLÉA ‫اﻟﻘﻠﻴﻌﻪ‬ trellises and fruit trees. Good food can be
asked him to celebrate his date of birth in gate and it’s all there on your doorstep – The most easterly oasis of the Grand Erg prepared with advance notice. This is an
a fitting manner. The pinnacle of this fes- a long stretch of red sand meets a veritable Occidental, El-Goléa is also one of the big- excellent-value place – only the location
tival occurs when the flags of the different ocean of dunes as far as the eye can see. To gest and a major stop on the route south. is against it.
brotherhoods of the Gourara are unfurled get here follow the road signposted by the The oasis itself is very lush and, apart from Auberge Caravanserail (B&B per person from DA1200,
near Sidi el-Hadj Belhadj’s tomb. entrance to Hôtel Gourara; it’s about 2.5km palms, supports a large variety of fruit trees, camping DA500; p) This hotel was in the last
172 G R A N D E R G O R I E N TA L • • E l - O u e d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G R A N D E R G O R I E N TA L • • E l - O u e d 173
stages of renovation at the time of writing hara. The people of the Souf region have an EL–OUED 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
but was shaping up to be a great little place. ingenious way of growing dates and other
Rooms are housed in a cool white build- fruits in the desert, digging pits deep in the
To Ritane Palace (8km);
ing located just off the place Centre Ville and sand and planting date palms and other Airport (18km); Biskra (200km); TRANSPORT
Ghardaïa (350km) Air Algérie.......................... 22 B4
there’s space for camping, a big shady gar- fruit trees at the bottom from where their Gare Routiére(Bus Station).. 23 C2
den bursting with palms and fruit trees, and roots can reach the subterranean water. It Local Buses......................... 24 C3
Long Distance Taxis............ 25 C2
an outdoor fireplace around which to con- is not uncommon to see just the tip of a Naftal Service Station..........26 D1
To Tunisia (60km)
gregate on chilly nights. Reserve in advance palm tree sticking out of the top of one 11
Naftal Service Station.......... 27 C2
through M’Zab Tours (p156) in Ghardaïa. of these pits. Many of the women of this 26
Hôtel El-Boustan (x 029 816050; fax 816402; region sport garments similar to those you
19
d from DA1800; pa) East of the centre of see in Ghardaïa – a single robe that covers
town on the road to the ksar, the state- everything except for one eye.
run El-Boustan is El-Goléa’s main hotel but Touggourt is another oasis town, right
25
certainly not the nicest. Like so many other on the western edge of the erg, south of To Touggourt
state-run hotels, it has bog-standard rooms El-Oued. The road that connects the two 27
18 23
that are rather overpriced and a complete towns passes through some magnificent
lack of atmosphere. sand-dune country where it’s a constant
struggle to prevent the dunes from swal- INFORMATION
8
Getting There & Away lowing the road. Bank........................................1
Banque d'Algérie....................2
B3
C3
AIR Further south again is the centre of Alge- Banque de l'Agriculture et d u
Developpement Rural.........3 B4
Air Algérie (x029 816100) has an office in the ria’s oil industry, the source of most of Al- Credit Populaire d'Algerie.......4 B4
centre of town between place Mohammed geria’s export income. The beating heart of Direction du Tourisme............5 C4 13
R
Internet Café.......................... 6 D4
V and place Centre Ville. The airport is this area is Hassi Messaoud, although Ouar-
M
12
oh
Internet Café..........................7 C4
am
3km to the west of town and there are gla on the edge of the erg is as close as most L'Hopital d'El Oued................8 B2
m
ed
ONAT.................................... 9 C4
weekly flights to Algiers. people need to go, unless they are heading
Kh
Post Office............................10 D4
em
1 17
for the Route du Tassili and Djanet. Post Office............................11 A1
is t
i
16 i
BUS 24 2 Larb
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES aleb
Av T
The bus station is nothing more than an EL-OUED ‫اﻟﻮاد‬ Market..................................12 D3
Mosque of Sidi Salem............13 D3 21
14
office right in the centre of town on place El-Oued has been dubbed ‘the town of a Museum................................14 C3 9 5
Mohammed V. There are daily departures thousand domes’ and it doesn’t take long 20 7
SLEEPING 15
22
for Adrar (DA550, five hours), Ghardaïa to work out why: the great majority of Grand Hôtel du Souf.............15 D4
3 10
Hotel Central.........................16 C3
(DA400, three hours), In Salah (DA750, buildings come crowned with vaults and Hôtel des Dunes....................17 D3 ch
ir 4 6
eight hours) and Timimoun (DA500, four domes, initially conceived as a way of deal- Hôtel Louss...........................18 B2 Ba
ara
Hôtel Si Moussa....................19 A2 Am
hours). ing with the intense summer heat. Tem- R
El-
peratures have been known to rise as high EATING
THE GRAND ERGS
THE GRAND ERGS

Restaurant Handa.................20 B4
TAXI as 50°C here and can reach 45°C for days
GHARDAÏA &
GHARDAÏA &
Restaurant Oasis...................21 C4
The long-distance taxis leave from an area on end. From the correct vantage point, the
just a few minutes’ walk to the southwest view out over the shimmering curved roofs
of the centre. The main destination is to the encroaching sands beyond can be internet access (per hr DA70;h7am-5pm) next to du Souf, and there is a bank at the Tunisian
Ghardaïa, but they also run to Timimoun. dazzling. El-Oued is also one of the busiest the Restaurant Oasis but the connection is border, although it is not always open.
towns of the region and its streets are dirty, not as fast.
GRAND ERG ORIENTAL chaotic and full of life, especially around

the large market where donkey carts vie MEDICAL SERVICES
POST & TELEPHONE
The post office is just down the road from
‫اﻟﻌﺮق اﻟﺸﺮﻗﻰ اﻟﺒﻴﺮ‬ for space on the streets with cars and
pedestrians.
The town is also famous for its carpets,
L’Hopital d’El Oued (x032 218891/8041) On rue
Mohammed Khemisti near the town’s main roundabout.
the Hotel de Souf and it has an ATM and
phone booths.
The Grand Erg Oriental is much larger than many of which bear the brown Cross of MONEY TOURIST INFORMATION
its western counterpart, and shares its mass the Souf motif on a white background On av Taleb Larbi there’s a Banque d’Algérie The tourist office is in the Direction du Tour-
of rolling dunes with neighbouring Tunisia. and you can find these on sale all over (h 9am-2pm, closed Fri & Sat) which changes isme on av Taleb Larbi near the corner of rue
The main draw of this region is the town the country. travellers cheques, gives cash advances on Mohammed Khemisti, and has information
of El-Oued, an oasis close to its northern Visa cards and can change Tunisian money. on local sights as well as a map of El-Oued.
edge. Its domed-roofed splendour is at the Information There’s also a Credit Populaire Algérie and There’s an ONAT office on the same road
heart of the Souf region – a series of oases INTERNET ACCESS a Banque d’Agriculture et du Développe- but it serves mostly as a booking agent for
dotted throughout a small triangular area There’s an internet café (per hr DA100h8am-1am;) ment Rural on rue El-Amara Bachir. It is flights to other North African countries and
and one of the hottest regions of the Sa- opposite the Hotel du Souf. There’s more also possible to change money at the Hôtel can’t offer useful advice on El-Oued.
174 G R A N D E R G O R I E N TA L • • E l - O u e d Book accommodation online
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l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com G R A N D E R G O R I E N TA L • • T o u g g o u r t 175
Sights the Touggourt road. It is a 15-minute walk road as Restaurant Oasis, Handa is very 4km walk between the two border posts but
The daily market in the old part of the town from the town centre but is a little closer similar. some people find a car to take them.
is a colourful and animated affair. It is at than some other hotels to the bus station
its busiest on Friday. Most stalls sell food for early-morning departures, and there are Getting There & Away Orientation
and everyday items, but a few cater to the also shuttles from town. Hôtel Si Moussa has AIR From the main square, the road to the right
tourist trade. clean and basic rooms with shower, and it’s The Air Algérie (x032 248686; h8am-noon & curves past the cinema to the marketplace,
In the centre of the market is the Mosque also possible to sleep on the roof here. 1-2.30pm Fri-Wed, 8am-noon Thu) office is on rue taxi and bus station. The road straight
of Sidi Salem. You can climb to the top of El-Amara Bachir in the centre of town. The ahead leads past the old hotel on the left to
the minaret here for a view over the town’s MIDRANGE airport is at Guemar, 19km to the north, the Hôtel Oasis and Temacine.
domed rooftops and the desert beyond, al- Hôtel Louss (x032 210079/99; fax 218755; s/d DA1500/ and can be reached by local bus. There are
though the effect is marred somewhat by 2000; pa) ‘Nothing special’ is the best way three flights a week to Algiers (DA4800, Information
the number of satellite dishes and construc- to describe this hotel. The rooms, service one hour 20 minutes). There’s a Banque Nationale d’Algérie and
tion sites. Just ask for the caretaker and he’ll and international restaurant are acceptable. a Banque d’Agriculture et du Développe-
let you in to walk up to the top. Similar Grand Hôtel du Souf (x032 247320; s/d/ste from BUS ment Rural in the town centre. There’s an
views are also to be had from the roof of DA1500/2000/4700; pas) This is the nicest The main bus station is about 1.5km north internet café in the town centre opposite
the Hôtel du Souf. place to stay in El-Oued. The entrance is of the town centre – a 20-minute walk; or the Banque d’Agriculture et du Développe-
The museum (h8.30am-noon & 3-6pm, closed Thu impressive – full of arched hallways and there are local minibuses which take you to ment Rural building.
& Fri) opposite the tourist offices consists of domed ceilings covered in green-and-white or from the centre of town.
just one room. However, it has some good mosaic. The rooms are pretty nondescript There are departures to Algiers (DA950, Sights
displays, including old aerial photos of the but there are some swish suites that come 10 hours), Annaba (DA520, six hours), There’s a large palmeraie outside town and a
area, a collection of the various insects and with padded faux leather doors, huge bath- Constantine (DA470, five hours), Ghardaïa couple of old, vaguely interesting mud-brick
animals of the region, and some good roses rooms and domed ceilings done out in (DA520, six hours) and Ouargla (DA300, villages to the south.
de sable and other geological curiosities. the prerequisite mosaic. The hotel comes three hours). Market day is Friday; in winter especially,
There are also a couple of traditional rugs, complete with its own tower; and the views the town is full of itinerant merchants who
and a pair of special wool-and-camel-hair from the top match those from the town’s TAXI have come for the market. The marketplace
soles which are used to walk on the burning minaret. At time of writing a traditional Yellow long-distance taxis leave when full is just off the road to El-Oued, near the
hot sand. The whole thing is a bit dusty and tented area for taking tea and traditional from opposite the main bus station to Toug- taxi station.
moth-eaten but is worth a quick look. meals was being constructed. gourt (DA400, 1½ hours), Ouargla (DA600,
Ritane Palace (x032 201539/201885; Daira d’El- three hours) and towns in the Souf area. Sleeping
Sleeping Oued; s/d DA2553/2957) Ten kilometres from the Touggourt is seriously lacking in good ac-
The range of accommodation is not great in city centre, it’s only worth staying here if Getting Around commodation options. At the time of writ-
El-Oued, and while there’s a fair amount in you want to be near the airport. It’s a large Local bus and taxi services for the town and ing a new tourist-class hotel was under
the midrange section, there is little for the hotel that wants to be the ritziest in the area surrounding villages leave from next to the construction next to the bus station. It will
budget traveller. What little budget accom- (and certainly charges as if it were) and it museum. Short journeys cost DA15. be called the Hôtel el-Nakhil.
modation there is tends to be below par. does try hard – it has very attentive staff
THE GRAND ERGS
THE GRAND ERGS

and plusher-than-average rooms, and the TOUGGOURT ‫ﺗﻮﻗﺮت‬ BUDGET
GHARDAÏA &
GHARDAÏA &
BUDGET communal areas are embellished with bold A totally unremarkable oasis town, Toug- Hôtel Essaada (x029 674545; s/d/tr/q DA300/500/
Hôtel des Dunes (x032 246795; av Taleb Larbi; s/d displays of art – yet, because of its isolation, gourt is perhaps most famous as the start- 600/800) This place overlooks the market and
DA250/500) The most central lodgings in El- it lacks customers. ing point of the first motorised crossing of has very basic rooms and shared facilities.
Oued are housed in a traditional domed the Sahara. The Citroën half-track vehicles There’s a hammam (bathhouse) under-
building on av Taleb Larbi. It has basic Eating of the Haardt and Audouin-Dubreuil ex- neath that’s open from 7am to 9pm.
rooms with bars on the windows and the Food is expensive in El-Oued and there isn’t pedition set off from here in 1922 for Tim- Hôtel de la Paix (s/d/t/q DA700/900/1400/1800)
facilities only include toilets, so you’ll have a great deal to choose from. For something buktu via Tamanrasset. The event is marked Between the market and the main street
to go to the public showers behind. other than the usual couscous or chicken by a simple pillar in the town square. The is this is a simple little place with average
Hotel Central (av Taleb Larbi; s & d DA600) Next and chips you’ll have to try one of the hotel town was also once a key stop on the trans- rooms and shared bathrooms. It’s rather
door to the Hôtel des Dunes this is also restaurants, all of which have more varied Saharan trading route, and the seat of a dy- dark and noisy though and we got a frosty
a seriously budget place. It has very basic menus with European as well as Algerian nasty of kings called the Ouled Djellab. reception. The only advantage is its central
doubles with balcony, sink and fan and like specialities and rather more upmarket Today the town is a regional administra- location.
the Hôtel des Dunes, there are toilets but no surrounding. tive centre. There are a couple of banks, a
bathrooms so you’ll have to use one of the Restaurant Oasis (rue El-Amara Bachir; h11am- post office and an Air Algérie office. If you MIDRANGE
many public showers in the vicinity. 9pm) This is a good choice although it has have a day to spare you could do worse Hôtel Oasis (x 029 681050/5050; fax 029 682645;
Hôtel Si Moussa (x032 272838; rue Mohammed pretty bland surroundings it has a good than spend it here, but don’t lose any sleep s/d DA1500/1950) Located about 500m south
Khemisti; d DA800; pa) It’s on rue Mohammed selection of grills and stews. if you miss it. of the town centre this is without a doubt
Khemisti near the fancy roundabout, com- Restaurant Handa (rue El-Amara Bachir; x10am- Shared taxis also travel to the Tunisian bor- the best place to stay in town. It has good
plete with pavilion, at the intersection with 9pm) Some 100m further west on the same der (DA400, 1½ hours) when full. There’s a rooms, the usual mosaic hallways and a
176 G R A N D E R G O R I E N TA L • • A r o u n d T o u g g o u r t lonelyplanet.com Book
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com G R A N D E R G O R I E N TA L • • O u r a g l a 177
palm-surrounded pool. In the lobby is a The mosque and minaret partly survived Information swathed, tented area for drinking mint tea,
useful (although rather old) sketch map of and have now been rebuilt. There are several banks and an Air Algérie and a cosy lobby with cave-painting repro-
Touggourt as well as some information on If you can find the caretaker, it’s possible (x029 761195) office along rue de 1 Novem- ductions on the walls and a nook with comfy
stuff to do in the vicinity. to climb up to the top of the minaret for a bre and there’s a post office opposite the sofas and a big fireplace for chilly winter
view over the ruined village, the nearby salt casbah. To use the internet try the youth nights. The car park has a hole-in-the-wall
Eating lake and the palmeraie. Next to Temacine is hostel on rue 1 Novembre. bottle shop and alcohol is served in the bar.
There are a few very basic restaurants be- the ‘sea’, a small salt lake, which holds little Grand Hotel Touristique el-Anssar (x029 763
tween the taxi station and the market as interest itself, but has some good ruins – Sights & Activities 745; s/d DA1500/2600; rte de Rouissat; pa) Rooms
well as around the main square, but we those of Boha Mar, a thousand-year-old vil- A few hundred metres south of quatre here are large with balconies but feel rather
didn’t find anything great here. lage, and the mausoleum which stands next to chemins you’ll find the old casbah. There’s dark; thankfully they are enlivened by such
it. Coming from Touggourt, take the Ouar- nothing of particular significance here but delights as giant glossy waterfall posters and
Getting There & Away gla road past the Hôtel Oasis. After about it’s nice to wander the narrow, sandy streets plastic flowers. There’s a restaurant, salon
BUS 10km you’ll find Temacine on your right. with their pretty beige- and rose-coloured de thé (tea room) and parking. It’s about
There’s a bus station right on the western buildings. There’s also a mosque and cir- 200m north of quatre chemins on the right-
edge of town, on the route to Biskra, and Tamelhat ‫ﺗﺎﻣﻠﺤﺎت‬ cular central market place selling fruit and hand side.
one in the centre of town next to the large A couple of kilometres further on is vegetables as well as deliciously fragrant
main market place. Both have buses to Tamelhat, which was also destroyed by the baskets of fresh herbs. TOP END
long-distance destinations. rains in the early 1990s. There are large In between the quatre chemins and the Hotel Lynatel (x029 714242; [email protected];
Daily bus services include Algiers open spaces where buildings have collapsed casbah is the Musée du Sahara (h9am-noon rue 1 Novembre; s/d from 3400/3800; pas) On
(DA950, 10 hours), Biskra (DA350, three completely and now the town is made up & 2-4pm Sun-Wed), which has interesting in- rue 1 Novembre between quatre chemins
hours), Constantine (DA480, five hours), mostly of new buildings. formation on the geology and plant and and the SNTV bus station. This is a sparkl-
El-Oued (DA200, two hours) and Hassi In the centre of the town is the mosque animal life of the Sahara and has some ingly clean place and the swishest digs in
Messaoud (DA300, three hours). and mausoleum of Sidi el-Hadj Ali; the cupola prehistoric artefacts and stuffed animals Ouargla. The large rooms have high ceil-
above the mausoleum is decorated with colon display. ings, plenty of light and seriously com-
SHARED TAXI oured tiles and stucco. fortable beds. Suites are equipped with
The shared-taxi station is next to the mar- Sleeping computers which will soon be connected to
ketplace just off the main El-Oued road, Getting There & Away BUDGET high-speed internet. There’s a massive roof
five minutes’ walk from the town centre. There are local buses from the main bus Youth hostel (x029 713301; rue 1 Novembre; dm terrace with views over town where parties
There are departures for Biskra (DA500, station in the centre of Touggourt and these DA100; i) Located on the Ghardaïa road are held in good weather, and there’s even
three hours), El-Oued (DA300, 1½ hours) will drop you directly in the centre of Tema- about 300m from quatre chemins, this is a a resident pastry chef to knock up goodies
and Ouargla (DA650, four hours), but very cine or Tamelhat. good clean hostel, one of the nicest in the for breakfast.
little happens after about 1pm. south, and has a cafeteria, internet café and
OUARGLA ‫ورﻗﻠۃ‬ clean bathrooms. Eating
TRAIN The town of Ouargla has slightly more to You’ll find plenty of basic restaurants serv-
The train station is close to the centre of offer than Touggourt. It has a better range MIDRANGE ing chicken and chips along the rue 1 No-
THE GRAND ERGS
THE GRAND ERGS

town but is currently only served by goods of accommodation, an interesting museum Hotel El-Boustane (x/fax 029 713591; rte de Rouissat; vembre. Other than those your best bet is
GHARDAÏA &
GHARDAÏA &
trains. and a nice old town. It’s not worth mak- s/d/apt from DA900/1200/2600; pa) About 700m the hotels. The excellent Hotel Lynatel res-
ing a special trip here, but if you’re pass- past the Hotel El-Anssar also on the right, taurant (hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm) serves top-
Getting Around ing through it’s not a bad place to spend this place is a multicoloured explosion; the quality North African and European food
Local buses for Tamelhat and Temacine a day. The town’s origins lie in the 10th lobby, with its swirly patterned sofas, clash- and scrummy desserts. There’s a salon de
leave from a stop just outside the main bus century at Sedrata, about 15km south of ing carpets and giant fish tank, leads to an thé at the Hotel El-Anssar, where you can
station, next to the market. Ouargla’s present-day location. Sedrata was orange-floored hallway off which there are get a nice variety of herbal teas, good coffee
once a capital for the Ibadis before the city smallish rooms with thick maroon carpet- and fresh pastries; and the Hotel le Tassili
AROUND TOUGGOURT was razed in 1072 and they were forced ing and faux-wood-panelled walls. restaurant specialises in French cuisine.
Temacine ‫ﺗﻤﺎﺳﻴﻦ‬ to flee further south to the M’Zab Valley Hotel le Tassili (x029 763004; fax 761361; Quartier
On the edge of the palmeraie about 10km (see p160). Résidentiel d’IFRI; s/d DA2450/3300; pas) Look Getting There & Away
from Touggourt is Temacine. At its centre for the blue neon signs opposite the Mosque BUS
are the remains of a traditional mud-brick Orientation de Ifri just east of the town centre. This is an The bus station is at the eastern end of town
village built around a ksar at the top of a The town’s main street is rue 1 Novembre old hotel dating from the colonial era. It has on the Ghardaïa road, about 1.5km from
small hill. Rains destroyed the village in where you’ll find the main banks, restau- good rooms with fridges and big mirrors the town centre, and is where the private
the early 1990s, and its inhabitants had to rants and hotels. Another good reference and there’s a large, fully equipped suite in a bus companies are based. There are buses
move to the new housing which now sur- point is quatre chemins, the crossroads at grass hut at the bottom of the garden. There to Algiers (DA920, 12 hours), Constantine
rounds the village. Even though the houses rue 1 Novembre and the rte de Rouissat, are some nice areas to hang out too – there’s (DA620), Illizi (DA950), the Libyan border
are no longer intact, it’s still nice to wander which many locals will use when giving a lively terrace where the locals come for a (DA1450, 14 hours) and Oran (DA1000, 14
round and the ruins exude a romantic air. directions. cold drink in the evening; a romantic fabric- hours).
178 G R A N D E R G O R I E N TA L • • H a s s i M e s s a o u d Book accommodation online
lyplanet.com
The SNTV (state-run) buses operate out operations – there are about 800 oil wells
of an office across the street from the main within a 25km radius of the town. There
bus station. Destinations include Ghardaïa is absolutely nothing of interest, but you
(DA200, two hours), Algiers (DA800, 12 will find yourself coming through on the
hours), Oran (DA915, 14 hours) and In way south on the Route du Tassili N’Ajjer.
Amenas (DA1300, 12 hours). Driving in the region at night, you’re sure
to notice a strange orange glow in the night
TAXI sky – these are the burn-off flames from the
Long-distance taxis wait 400m east of the oil refineries which can be seen from many
bus station on the Ghardaïa road. They go kilometres away.
to Ghardaïa (DA500, two hours), El-Oued
(DA600, three hours) and other places. Sleeping
There are five taxi services a week to Al- The only decent accommodation in town
giers (DA5500, one hour 20 minutes), two is 3km from the centre at the northern end
to Oran (DA6600, two to five hours), and of town, and it’s expensive at DA2000 for
weekly services to In Amenas (DA5500, 1½ a single.
hours), Adrar (DA6500, two hours), Djanet
(DA8600, 1½ hours), Illizi (DA6000, one Getting There & Away
hour) and Tamanrasset (DA9200, four There are regular buses between here and
hours). Ouargla, and a daily service to In Amenas,
The airport is on the Touggourt road although you’ll need luck to get a seat on
about 8km out of town on the right. it as it comes from Ouargla and is likely
to be full.
HASSI MESSAOUD ‫ﺣﺴﻲ ﻣﺴﻌﻮد‬ There are 10 flights a week to Algiers
Situated 85km southeast of Ouargla, this (DA6000, one hour) as well as direct inter-
is solely a service town for surrounding oil national flights to Paris and London.
THE GRAND ERGS
GHARDAÏA &
179
Tamanrasset, Djanet
& the Sahara
‫ اﻟﺼﺤ ﺮاء‬،‫ ﺟﺎﻧﺖ‬،‫ﺗﺎﻣﻨ ﺮاﺳﺖ‬
If you thought that the Sahara was all about sand and camels then you’d better think
again. While you’ll get your fix of unwieldy dromedaries and undulating dunes, this part
of the Sahara is also home to an alien landscape of twisted stone forests, stark volcanic
mountain ranges, endless black gravel plains and deep dark canyons. It’s the trump card of
Algerian tourism and, now that the security situation has stabilised, thousands of visitors
are heading back to marvel at its eye-popping natural beauty.
Stretching from In Salah right down to the Mali and Niger borders is the Ahaggar (Hoggar)
National Park. Created in 1987 to safeguard the considerable riches of this part of the
country, it’s one of the largest protected areas in the world. At its heart is the laid-back
town of Tamanrasset, resting at the foot of the brooding Hoggar massif.
The craggy plateau that surrounds the sleepy oasis of Djanet is known as the Tassili
N’Ajjer. Also one of Algeria’s protected areas, its caves and canyons hide an abundance of
engravings and paintings illustrating the once-blooming plant and animal life of the
Sahara.
This is the Algerian heartland of the Tuareg, traditionally a nomadic people, who have
roamed the desert regions of Algeria and its neighbouring countries for many centuries.
You’ll see beautiful women swathed in brightly coloured fabrics and refined silver jewellery
and plenty of veiled ‘blue men’ (as Tuareg men are sometimes called, after the traditional
colour of their robes) zipping through the streets of Tamanrasset and Djanet in burly
jeeps.
HIGHLIGHTS
Hike up steep escarpments and through
shadowy canyons to reach the treasure
trove of prehistoric art at Tassili N’Ajjer
Djanet
National Park (p194)
Climb deep into the Hoggar Mountains for Tassili N’Ajjer
Assekrem National Park
one of the most spectacular sunrises on
TA M A N R A S S E T , D J A N E T
Tassili du
earth at Assekrem (p188) Hoggar
Gaze up at great stone castles and bizarre,
& THE SAHARA

deformed mountains on the otherworldly
plateau of the Tassili du Hoggar (p189)
Evoke the ancient salt caravans by
saddling up on a dromedary to experience
the majesty of the Sahara near Djanet (p191)
180 TA MA N R A S S E T & T H E R O U T E D U H O G G A R lonelyplanet.com Book
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com TA MA N R A S S E T & T H E R O U T E D U H O G G A R • • I n S a l a h 181
TAMANRASSET, DJANET & THE SAHARA 0

0
200 km
120 miles
SUN, SAND & SAFETY
To Ghardaia
(600km) In February 2003 the dangers of desert driving were dramatically illustrated when no fewer
In Salah
Timoktene
El-Barka
In Salah than 32 people disappeared in the Sahara. Several separate expeditions, mostly German and
Airport
Aoulef
El Arab Swiss, vanished in different parts of southeast Algeria. Speculation was rife about their fate: one
Akabli ’Immidir Algerian source even claimed the travellers were being held illegally in a military facility and
sili d
Tas
Illizi search attempts made by the Algerian government were a show put on for the benefit of the
jjer
Tankena
LIBYA media. By March, however, it had become apparent that the travellers were in the hands of an
N’A
extreme Islamist group, the Salafist Group for Call and Combat (GSPC).
ssili
u Ta
Tamdjert In May, 17 of the hostages were released unharmed and eventually the remaining party was
O u ed
ed
Aso
uf
Arak tracked down to Mali after they had crossed the southern Saharan border. Most were successfully
Rout
M Tassi
ell li N’
Ajje
Ro r rescued after long negotiations; one tourist died in captivity.
en
Ou
ute Ghat
e
ed
du Essendilène
Canyon In the light of these events, travel in the desert areas south of Ghardaïa must be under-
Ig
Tassili N’Ajjer
H
hargha
Tim Ras National taken with a professional guide. If driving yourself from Mali, you must arrange to be met at
og
Park
ga
Djanet
r
Djanet the Algerian border by a guide. Several travel agencies in Tamanrasset, Djanet and Adrar can
rg
Airport Tagharghart
In Ekker tain
s arrange this for you. If you ignore these regulations you will be found out – there are
oun checkpoints throughout the desert.
rM
gga Ideles
Ho Hirhafor r
In-amdjel ogga
Assekrem uH
Atakor ili d
ass
Tazrouk T
Tahat
(3000m)
some 2800m is one of the Hoggar’s high- the Aoulef road is the palmeraie, with some
Tin Amenserh Tit Tahifet
Abalessa est peaks. From here you can watch the 250,000 trees. Formerly a trading town
Silet Tamanrasset
Amsel Tamanrasset sun rise over a carpet of peaks from the dealing in gold, ivory and slaves from the
Airport
Poste Maurice
Cortier
hermitage of Charles de Foucauld. South south in exchange for European goods from
(bidon V) of Tamanrasset is the Tassili du Hoggar – a the north, the town’s major occupation is
mystical plateau full of mushroom-shaped now date-growing.
rocks and saffron sand.
Information
IN SALAH ‫ﻋﻴﻦ ﺻﺎﻟﺢ‬ There is a bank in the main street, and the
Built in the red Sudanese style, In Salah post office is one block to the north. There
would be a very pleasant place to stay were is a big hospital out in the east of town near
Tessalit it not for the problem that gives the town the Hôtel Tidikelt.
To Agadez
Tin Zaouaten its name: salty water. The water is disgust-
NIGER
ing, so bring as much water with you as you TRAVEL AGENCIES
Aguelhok
In Guezzam can from Tamanrasset or El-Goléa. Even Ahnet Voyages (x029 390223; fax 29360999;
MALI
Anefok
the local soft drinks are made from it and [email protected]/[email protected]; In
Telabit
Afassa bottled water is often unavailable. Salah) This agency has been organising trips into the Tassili
The most interesting feature of the town d’Immidir since the late 1980s. It also runs good trips in the
is the presence of a creeping sand dune on Hoggar as well as trips further afield to the M’zab.
TAMANRASSET & THE through In Salah, a town famed for its salty
water, past the canyons and mountains of
the western edge by the Aoulef road. Be-
hind the mosque you can see how the dune
Tanezrouft Voyages (x029 360646; www.tanezrouft
.com; Ksar el-Arab, In Salah) Offers trekking, camel and 4WD
ROUTE DU HOGGAR the Tassili d’Immidir (tassili means pla-

teau in the language of the local Tuareg),
is gradually encroaching on the town. From
the top of the dune it becomes apparent
expeditions into the Tassili d’Immidir and Ahnet regions.
‫ﺗﺎﻣﻨﺮاﺳﺖ وﻃﺮﻳﻖ‬ through the steep gorges of Arak and then

on to this region’s hub – the Tuareg ‘capi-
that In Salah has actually been cut in two.
The dune moves at the rate of about 1m
Sleeping
Camping Tidikelt (per person DA500) At the end of
‫اﻟﻬﻮﻗﺎر‬ tal’ of Tamanrasset. From Tamanrasset,

the road continues for another punishing
every five years. The amount of sand on the
move actually remains fairly constant, so
the main street near the centre of town, this
the better of the two camping alternatives.
410km to In Guezzam, which sits near the while it is swallowing up a building on its There is a reasonable amount of shade and
The Route du Hoggar, one of the major border crossing into Niger. leading edge, it is uncovering one behind it you can sleep in the tiny palm-frond huts if
& THE SAHARA
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routes across the Sahara to West Africa, is Much of the area covered in this section which may have been under the sand for a you want some privacy. It costs DA180 to
gaining popularity once more after many is protected territory and part of the Ahag- generation or two. Once the ruins of a house sleep in the huts.
years in the wilderness. From El-Goléa, it gar National Park. have been uncovered, it is established who The only hotel is this three-star place
extends south across the Tademait Plateau, ‘Tam’, as it is affectionately known, is it used to belong to and then that person’s Hôtel Tidikelt (x029 370393; fax 029 340799) on
which stretches on like some sunburnt pan- the jumping-off point for exploring the relatives rebuild the place and move in. the outskirts of town, 10 minutes’ walk
cake; the largest thing in sight might be a attractions of the Hoggar Mountains, the The view from the top of the dune is from the centre. It’s a two-story mud-red
rock the size of a tennis ball. It then passes highlight of which is Assekrem, which at great at sunset. To the west of town along building with a (mostly empty) swimming
182 TA MA N R A S S E T & T H E R O U T E D U H O G G A R • • A r o u n d I n S a l a h lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com TA MA N R A S S E T & T H E R O U T E D U H O G G A R • • A r a k 183
IN SALAH 0
0 0.2 miles
400 m
archaeological riches. Perhaps this is be- moderate all year round. Even in midsum-
cause of its relative isolation – it has to mer the temperature rarely gets above 35°C.
be accessed on foot and even then this is There’s not a great deal to do here but it’s
8 not a straightforward task – but the dif- an appealing place in which to while away a
7
ficulty in getting here adds to its appeal. couple of days – there’s a good market, some
The landscape is wild and mysterious and nice cafés and a friendly atmosphere. It’s also
the gueltas – pools of water found in the a place where you can get things done – there
bottom of canyons – produce sufficient are banks, one of which can change travellers
To Airport (7.5km);
N1; El-Goléa (395km); vegetation to support a range of animal cheques, several internet cafés and Malian
Tamanrasset (700km)
life: gazelles, mountain sheep, jackals and and Nigerien consulates for arranging ongo-
even leopard can be found here. The Tas- ing visas.
sili d’Immidir is also rich in archaeological
findings – arrowheads, shards of pottery History
2 and hundreds of ancient rock paintings The Tuareg were the first settlers in this
5
all attest to a human presence from Neo- region, which they called Tamenghest, but
Creeping
Sand Dune lithic times. when Charles de Foucauld (see the boxed
3
There is no way of getting here independ- text, p189) arrived here in 1905, Taman-
ently so you’ll have to join a tour. There are rasset was just a dusty cluster of zeribas.
several companies in Tamanrasset and in In From the 1920s onwards, when the
4 1 6 Salah that organise tours here. French colonial administration settled
here because of the town’s strategic loca-
To Aoulef (180km); ARAK ‫ﻋﺮاق‬ tion, Tamanrasset’s growth accelerated. It
SLEEPING
Reggane (270km)
Camping Tidikelt...................4 A3
Although the gorges around Arak are quite became a préfecture in the 1950s and, after
INFORMATION Hôtel Tidikelt.........................5 D2 spectacular, the little settlement itself is independence, the regional capital of the
Bank..........................................1 C3
Post Office.................................2 C2 TRANSPORT
very humble. It doesn’t have the altitude of wilaya (province). Access routes were im-
Air Algérie.............................6 C3 Tamanrasset, and subsequently is as hot as proved and more and more Algerians came
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Gare Routière (Bus Station)....7 D1
Mosque.....................................3 A2 Naftal Service Station.............8 D1 all hell. to make their home here. In the ‘80s the
There is a camp site with zeribas (palm explosion of tourism to the Algerian Sahara
huts), a restaurant where you can get a rea- brought with it economic prosperity and
pool. Rooms are air-conditioned and in 20 minutes’ walk from the centre. It is ac- sonable meal and a fuel station. urban planners.
the grand traditional of state-run hotels in tually just a shopping centre (most of it If you are on the bus, it will stop here for The 1990s were lean years for Taman-
Algeria, rather run down. There’s a half- unoccupied), and the bus office is inside a meal break. rasset, as the town that had come to depend
decent restaurant and an airport shuttle for towards the back. greatly on tourists saw its source of income
those who need it. There are buses to Adrar, Ghardaïa and TAMANRASSET ‫ﺗﺎﻣﻨﺮاﺳﺖ‬ dry up, due to the country’s bitter civil war.
Tamanrasset. The Ghardaïa buses leave at As the last town on the route south to The slow improvements brought on by the
Eating 4pm every day and it is essential that you Niger, Tam, with a current population of end of the troubles were dashed again when
There are several basic cafés in the town book in advance as the buses come up from around 120,000, has long been a vital rest a group of tourists was kidnapped in the
where you can get cheap, filling meals for Tamanrasset. There are stops along the way stop for ancient caravans and desert traders desert regions near the town in 2003, but
around DA300. For something a bit more (including a meal at Arak), but basically and, as a major centre for Algeria’s Saharan at the time of writing the safety situation
upmarket, you’ll have to try the fancy res- you need to be prepared with a bit of food tourism, is still is a busy crossroads today. in the region had greatly improved and
taurant at the Hôtel Tidikelt. and water. It’s one of those places where virtually all visitors to the town were on the increase
trans-Saharan travellers stop for a few days once more.
Getting There & Away TAXI to rest up and make repairs to equipment.
AIR There are 4WD taxis between In Salah and Tamanrasset is also the place from which Orientation
The Air Algérie (x029 360239) office is on the Tamanrasset costing DA2130. Taxis run to arrange trips up into the Hoggar Moun- There’s one main street in Tamanrasset that
main street, next to a bank. The airport is regularly from In Salah to Reggane (DA600, tains, something that should not be missed leads all the way from the airport through
8km to the northeast, to the right of the three hours), 270km west along the road to on any account. the town itself and out to Mt Adriane, a
El-Goléa road. Adrar, and from there you can catch a daily If you arrive by plane, as many tourists do, large peak that dominates the town. The
& THE SAHARA
& THE SAHARA

There is a weekly flight to Algiers bus to Adrar. you will be treated to a spectacular preview bus station is at the northeastern end of
(DA9800, three hours) and one to Taman- of things to come – endless twisted peaks this street, about 1km walk away from the
rasset (DA5400, one hour). AROUND IN SALAH of red and brown are spread out below you town centre. South of the main street is the
Tassili d’Immidir and volcanic craters blister the ground like Oued Tamanrasset, a large dried riverbed
BUS Part of the Ahaggar National Park, the Tas- the surface of some far off planet. that sometimes also serves as a truck park
The gare routière is out in the east on the sili d’Immidir is one of the least-explored With an altitude of nearly 1400m, Taman- and camel market. On the south bank of
main Tamanrasset to El-Goléa road, about areas of this region, despite its beauty and rasset has a climate which stays relatively this river you’ll find the Marché Africaine
184 TA MA N R A S S E T & T H E R O U T E D U H O G G A R • • Ta m a n r a s s e t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com TA MA N R A S S E T & T H E R O U T E D U H O G G A R • • Ta m a n r a s s e t 185
TAMANRASSET 0
0
800 m
0.5 miles
day service – come first thing in the morning and pick up your party. You won’t usually be permitted
your visa in the afternoon. Visas costs €50 for one month. to join an already existing group and will
almost certainly have to arrange an individ-
INTERNET ACCESS ually tailored tour. If you haven’t arranged a
To Assekrem
(75km) INFORMATION Assikel Net (per hr DA100; h8am-midnight) On a tour in advance your best bet is to contact
Air Algérie...................................... 1 C3 small side road off av Emir Abdelkader. Offers reasonable- ONAT when you arrive in Tamanrasset.
To Airport (11km); Assikel Net Cyber Café................... 2 B3
In Salah (700km) Banque Centrale d'Algerie.............. 3 C3 speed internet access. Many of the agencies have home-based
Banque Nationale d'Algerie............ 4 C3
Hospital......................................... 5 C5
Sat-Sat Cyber Café (per hr DA100;h8am-9pm) Next offices so you’ll have to make contact in
Malian Consulate........................... 6 C3 to the Hotel Ilamane. The connection is slightly slow. advance by telephone. There are a couple of
Musée du Hoggar......................(see 11)
Nigerien Consulate.......................(see 6)
agency offices in the town centre, but these
Office du Parc National de MEDICAL SERVICES appear to be closed a lot of the time, so it’s
L'Ahaggar...................................7 C3
Office Nationale Algerien du Tourisme The main hospital is on the ring road be- still best to phone in advance.
30
27 (ONAT)...................................... 8 B3 tween av Emir Abdelkader and the In Gu- Akar Akar (x029 344638; www.akar-akar.com) One
Post Office..................................... 9 C3
Sat-Sat Cyber Café....................... 10 B3 ezzam road. of the oldest and biggest agencies in Tamanrasset and one
Tourist Office............................... 11 B3 of the few to have a functioning office in the town centre.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES MONEY Guests are housed in red-walled bungalows or authentic
Maison de la Culture.................... 12 C3
Marché Africaine.......................... 13 B4
Neither bank can offer cash advances on Tuareg tents at their gîte not far from the airport.
20 Musée de l'OPNA........................ 14 B3 credit cards. Hoggar Soleil (x029 346972; www.hoggarsoleil.com;
19 14 SLEEPING
Banque Centrale d’Algérie (h9am-noon & 2-4pm, BP 341 Tamanrasset) A well-established agency created
31 Camping Dromadaire.................. 15 D4 closed Fri & Sat) The only bank in town that accepts travel- in 1986. It offers treks from four to 14 days in the Taman-
9 Hôtel Ilamane............................... 16 B3
Hôtel Tahat.................................. 17 D4
lers cheques. You need to have the original receipt as proof rasset environs as well as tours around Djanet and the
21 23
24
18
Hôtel Tinhinane............................ 18 B3 of purchase and even then it can be a long process. The Tassili N’Ajjer.
29
32 28
8
3 foreign-exchange division sometimes shuts earlier in the Immidir Voyages (x029 344468/2484; www
4
22 11 1 afternoon so it’s best to go in the morning if you want to .immidir-voyages.com; BP777 Mouflon, Tamanrasset)
2 10 Place du
Ou
ed 16 1er Novembre change travellers cheques. Excellent and established agency providing 4WD treks and
25
12 Banque Nationale d’Algérie (h9am-noon & tours around the Tam region, with great tours into the
7
6
2-4pm, closed Fri & Sat) Next to Banque Centrale d’Algérie. Immidir, about which the owner is particularly enthusiastic
26
Changes cash but not travellers cheques. and interested.
Av
Em
ir
Tarakeft Voyages (x029 342007; www.tarakeft.com)
Ab
13 del
k ad e
POST & TELEPHONE Runs 4WD and trekking tours in the region around Taman-
r
17 15
The post office is northeast of the main street. rasset as well as tours into Mali and the Dogon country.
It has a telephone office where it’s possible Walene Voyages (x029 344229/037 2413004; www
EATING
Minimart/Fruit stalls..................... 19 B2
To Camping Dassine (400m);
Auberge Caravanserail (900m);
to make international calls, although with .walene-voyages.com; BP 439 Tamanrasset) Circuits include
Patisserie du Hoggar..................... 20 B2 Camping Bordj 4WD (1.5km);
Gite Saharien (3km);
the number of taxiphone offices in town trips to Mali and Niger as well as a special camel trip in the
Restaurant Chelia......................... 21 B3
Restaurant Nina............................ 22 B3
Mt Adrience (3.5km) it’s not really worth the bother. footsteps of Foucauld.
Restaurant Tassili.......................... 23 B3
SHOPPING
TOURIST INFORMATION Sights & Activities
Artisanat Traditionnel Boutique le Office du Parc Nationale de l’Ahaggar (L’OPNA; There is a daily market held in the late after-
Hoggar..................................... 24 B3
Market......................................... 25 A3 x029 734117; place du 1er Novembre) Office of the noon held on the far side of the oued (dry
national park; sometimes has interesting exhibitions on the river bed) away from the centre of town. As
TRANSPORT
Akar Akar.................................... 26 C3 life of the park. well as fruit, vegetables and grain there are
Gare Routière (Bus Station).......... 27
Hoggar Soleil................................ 28
A2
B3
Office National Algerien du Tourisme (ONAT; several shoe and clothing stalls as well as
Long Distance Taxis...................... 29 B3 To 4WD & Truck Stops (1km); x029 346717; fax 029 344191; h8am-noon & 2-5pm) tailors’ booths.
Naftal Service Station................... 30
Private Bus Companies................. 31
A2 Tassili du Hoggar (300km);
B3 In Guezzam (416km);
5 Has very helpful staff and can provide useful information Also on the far side of the oued is the
Tarakeft Voyages......................... 32 B3 Niger (428km) on the local area as well as organising tours in the vicinity gargantuan Marché Africaine, another daily
from €50 per person per day. market selling all manner of produce, from
spices and traditional clothing to huge metal
and the road towards Niger. Tam’s best Abdelkader, about 500m from the centre TRAVEL AGENCIES cooking pots, velour carpets and dodgy co-
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& THE SAHARA

accommodation is located south of town of town. Most of these agencies deal with book- logne (Tuareg pour Homme anyone?). To
on the route d’Adriane. Malian Consulate (x029 341578; av Emir Ab- ings from foreign agencies. However, if see the market at its liveliest, it’s best to
delkader; h9am-3pm Sun-Thu) Operates a same-day contacted in advance they should be able come in the morning. The Musée du l’OPNA
Information service for visas. A one-month visa costs €15 for French to work something out for independent (admission free;h 9am-noon & 1.30-5pm Sun-Thu,
FOREIGN CONSULATES citizens and €10 for people of other nationalities. travellers. Prices range from €50 to €80 3-5pm Fri) provides interesting information on
Both Mali and Niger have consulates here. Nigerien Consulate (x029 344122; av Emir Ab- a day including food and equipment, de- the history, geography and environment of
They are next door to each other on av Emir delkader; h9am-2.30pm Sun-Thu) Also operates a same- pending on how many people there are in the Hoggar region. The irregularly opening
186 TA MA N R A S S E T & T H E R O U T E D U H O G G A R • • Ta m a n r a s s e t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com TA MA N R A S S E T & T H E R O U T E D U H O G G A R • • Ta m a n r a s s e t 187
Musée du Hoggar (h9am-noon & 2-5pm Sun-Thu) renovations were about to get underway – Auberge Caravanserail (x029 345557; B&B per tion of Tuareg jewellery and crafts. Things
has displays of Tuareg clothing, swords rooms were being improved and a number person DA1500, half board DA2300, full boardDA3200; p) to look out for include heavy silver crosses
and daggers. You could also check out the of new en suite rooms were planned. Owned by M’zab Tours, who have similar set- and agate pendants, Tuareg swords, leather
Maison de la Culture on place du 1er Novem- Camping Bordj 4WD (x029 342258; route de ups in Ghardaïa and El-Goléa, this is another bags and camel saddles and the obligatory
bre, which has regular exhibitions about the l’Adriane; per person without bathroom from DA800, camp- good choice. It has simple white bungalows taguelmoust (Tuareg veil) to shield you from
landscape and animal life of the region as ing per person DA500; p) Large two-storey pink with spotless shared ablutions and a bright the desert wind. A good shop to try is the
well as good second-hand-book sales. building providing comfortable accommo- courtyard filled with bougainvillea. It costs Artisanat Traditionnel Boutique le Hoggar,
dation in simple single and double rooms DA1500 per day for guides and the agency which has a selection of jewellery and tradi-
Festivals & Events or camping in its lovely gardens. organises tailored trips throughout the tional clothing and a very friendly owner.
LE TAFSIT Hoggar; there’s even a conference room.
One of the most important festivals in MIDRANGE Hôtel Tahat (x029 344475; fax 029 344325; av Emir Getting There & Away
Southern Algeria, this event takes place at Camping Dromadaire (x029 348252/061 648069; Abdelkader; s/d DA2900/3400) As state-run hotels AIR
the end of April in celebration of spring. www.dromadaire-tourisme.com; rte de l’Adriane; s/d/tr go this one is quite nice. Rooms are very The Air Algérie (x029-344499; place Emir Abdelkader)
Every springtime, different Tuareg tribes DA850/1700/2450, dm DA850, camping per person DA400; comfortable and things actually seem to office is in the town centre near the two
from all over the central Sahara have al- p) Nice, spacious place featuring double work. There are some nice communal areas main banks. The airport is 12km north of
ways met in Tamanrasset for a grand cel- and triple red circular chalets with palm including a pretty curtain-swathed, pillow- town, off to the left of the main road.
ebration of brotherhood, culminating in a roofs, a 10-bed dorm, a large garden with strewn lounge, plus it has a tour agency and There are six direct services a week to Al-
camel race. This was formalised in the early plenty of room for pitching tents, a small it’s one of the few places that you can get an giers (DA1400, two hours), and one weekly
‘90s and it became known as Le Tafsit or boutique and plenty of cane-chaired chill- alcoholic drink. service to Djanet (DA4100, 50 minutes),
the Spring Festival. It lasts for a minimum out areas. Meals are available if ordered in Ghardaïa (DA9800, two hours 20 minutes),
of three days and much of it takes place advance and dinner costs DA350. It also Eating In Salah (DA5499, one hour 40 minutes)
in the ‘chameaudrome’ 3km from Taman- has a travel agency running tours around The restaurant scene in Tamanrasset is and Ouargla (DA9300, one hour 45 min-
rasset. As well as the famous camel race, the Hoggar. hardly pulsating. However there are a few utes). There are also direct international
there are exhibitions, music, singing, and Camping Dassine (x063 675837; s/d from DA900/ places on the main road that are decent and flights to Paris and Marseille (France).
street processions. 1800, camping per person DA500; p) About 500m there are several places to buy fresh fruit,
further on from Camping Dromadaire, this veg and other supplies. BUS
Sleeping is a large rambling place with tons of camp- Restaurant Chelia (av Emir Abdelkader; meals around The gare routière (bus station) is in the
There are several nice places to stay in Tam- ing space, and clean, cool rooms in bun- DA300; hlunch & dinner) Just across the street northwestern part of town, a 15-minute
anrasset, mostly located a few kilometres galows or thatch rondavels with spotless from Restaurant Tassili this place serves walk from the centre. If you arrive late at
out of town. There are a couple of hotels shared facilities. There’s a traditional tented tasty grilled kebabs to eat in or take away. night, or are heading out early in the morn-
located in the town centre, but these aren’t area for taking meals and tea or just shoot- Restaurant Tassili (av Emir Abdelkader; meals DA350; ing, it is standard practice to doss down at
nearly as nice so if you don’t mind the walk ing the breeze, and an outdoor fireplace. hlunch & dinner) This place has tables out- the station. The bus schedule is displayed
(it’s a pleasant one), you’re better off stay- Meals are available, aided by a nice salad side as well as an interesting dining room on a board inside the building and there
ing away from the action. Places to stay and herb garden at the back of the plot. To decorated with carpets, Tuareg swords, are daily departures to In Salah (DA900,
in Tamanrasset are often called campings. make it even better, there are lovely views mini deer heads and even a pair of skis. 11 hours), Ghardaïa (DA1500, 19 to 20
These aren’t camp sites, but are normally of the hills all around. It serves roast chicken, chips, harissa (red- hours) and Ouargla (DA1600, 22 hours).
gîtes with bungalow or hut accommoda- Gite Saharien (x029 345452/020 812307; info@ chilli paste)and the like. Make sure you reserve your ticket the day
tion, with plenty of space on the side for taghant.com; s&d, from around DA1400 B&B per person) Restaurant Nina (meals DA400; hlunch & dinner) before departure.
pitching tents. All of the campings can or- Backed up against Mt Adriane with stun- Round the corner from the Hôtel Ilamane, There are also a number of private bus
ganise tours up to Assekrem and beyond. ning views from all around the gîte, this this is a very popular place whose outside companies whose offices are mostly centred
is the nicest place to stay in town. It has tables fill up at lunchtime. It serves a tasty on the northwestern end of the town centre.
BUDGET wonderfully relaxing cool, calm rooms (in- range of Algerian dishes including kefta Most of the buses are 30-seater Toyota mini-
Hôtel Ilamane (x029 345716; s/d/tr DA500/1000/1400) cluding larger suites with seating and eating (meatballs made from seasoned, minced buses. You can reserve a seat in advance,
Just south of av Emir Abdelkader, this is the areas) set in red-mud chalets, with rustic lamb), tagines, grilled camel and home- and the buses tend to leave in the evening
cheapest place to stay in the town centre. beds and tables made from palm trees. made harissa. or early morning. Destination include In
It has basic but very spacious rooms with There are plenty of areas in which to relax Patisserie du Hoggar has nice a nice se- Salah (DA1000, 11 hours) and Ghardaïa
friendly if somewhat confused service. It’s and take in the view, and an inviting lounge lection of cakes and pastries as well as a few (DA2000, 19 to 20 hours).
nothing special though and unless you’re with a big fireplace for colder evenings. The tables at which to sit and scoff them. For
& THE SAHARA
& THE SAHARA

desperate to stay in the centre of town it’s huge garden is full of fruit trees and plants, self-caterers there’s a minimart and several 4WD
best to stay somewhere a little further out. and there are ducks, a goat pen and even fruit stalls near the roundabout at the top About 2.5km from the centre of town on the
Hôtel Tinhinane (x029 734385; av Emir Abdelkader; a resident monkey. Step outside and the of av Emir Abdelkader. In Guezzam road there’s a 4WD stop with
s/d DA600/1100) Bang in the centre of town. It desert is on your doorstep. The gîte is also share 4WD taxis heading for In Guezzam
is not as cheap as the Hotel Ilamane though home to the Taghant Agency which as well Shopping and beyond. They leave on a fill-up-and-go
and we found the rooms, with shared bath- as the usual 4WD trips organises simple There are plenty of souvenir shops along basis or if there’s a group of you it’s possible
room, disappointing. At the time of writing camel treks in the vicinity of the gîte. av Emir Abdelkader offering a good selec- to hire the whole vehicle. It costs DA1500
188 TA MA N R A S S E T & T H E R O U T E D U H O G G A R • • A r o u n d Ta m a n r a s s e t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com TA MA N R A S S E T & T H E R O U T E D U H O G G A R • • Ta s s i l i d u H o g g a r 189
per seat to In Guezzam or DA15,000 to hire eventually reaching the heights of As- CHARLES DE FOUCAULD
the whole car. It is also possible to hire an sekrem where you’ll be greeted with out-
entire car to go straight through to Agadez standing vistas over the sea of mountains Playboy adventurer turned Saharan priest, Père de Foucauld (1858–1916) was born Vicomte
in Niger. The price is negotiable but it should below. Assekrem means ‘the End of the Charles Eugene de Foucauld to a wealthy aristocratic family in Strasbourg, France. There was
cost about DA40,000 for the trip. World’ in the language of the Tuareg and no early indication of the path his life would take; Foucauld was fond of the good life and
it’s easy to see why; standing up here it loved nothing better than to splash the cash on parties, champagne, foie gras and the la-
TAXI feels like you’re as far away from civiliza- dies. He was also short on self-discipline and, while stationed with the French Army in North
Long-distance taxis depart from the town tion as can be. Africa, got into trouble because of his unruly behaviour. In a twist befitting a Shakespeare play,
centre on av Emir Abdelkader just down he turned his back on the army, disguised himself as a rabbi and headed off to explore the
from the Hotel Tinhanane. They depart on SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES hill country of Morocco.
a leave-when-full basis and it’s best to get It takes about five hours to reach the refuge As the story goes, Foucauld found himself deeply touched by the faith of the Muslim people
here very early in the morning. Destina- (mountain hut) at Assekrem – a collection and returned to France a new man, entering a Trappist order at the age of 31. After several
tions include In Salah (DA1000, nine to 10 of stone walled bungalows and a camp site, years of monastic pilgrimages he was ordained as a priest in 1901 and headed for the Sahara,
hours), Ghardaïa (DA2000, 17 hours), Arak where visitors stay the night. From here it’s first to Beni Abbès and then to Tamanrasset, where he discovered a passion for the desert and
(DA600, five hours) and Ouargla (DA1200, obligatory to visit the hermitage of Charles concocted the idea of a superabstemious religious order that would spend the majority of the
19 hours). de Foucauld, a monk who came to live in day in prayer and live on a paltry diet of dates and barley. No surprises then that this didn’t
the Hoggar in early last century. He chose catch on and that the order had a membership of one (himself ) during his lifetime. Christianity
TRUCK to build a simple stone hermitage up on As- didn’t exactly set the fires burning in the desert either and he only converted one person during
Opposite the 4WD station on the In Guez- sekrem (see the boxed text, opposite, for fur- his time in Tamanrasset.
zam road is a truck stop where large goods ther details). The hermitage is on top of the Foucauld spent much of his days in the desert striving to get closer to the Tuareg, studying
trucks and heavy vehicles heading for Niger Assekrem plateau and can only be reached their culture and language and translating the gospels into Tamashek. He also developed the
pitch up. Travellers sometimes hitch rides on foot, which takes about 30 minutes from first ever French/Tamashek dictionary. In 1911, he chose the wild and remote Assekrem as the
on one of these for a price, although it’s the refuge. A few monks from Foucauld’s place to construct his hermitage and spent much of his time there before his death. He was
likely they don’t end up with a seat in the order live up at the hermitage and say mass assassinated in 1916 by a group of rebels who were resisting French attempts to infiltrate the
cab but rather on top of the truck. The price every morning in the small simple chapel; Algerian Sahara. His body is buried in the cemetery in El-Goléa.
for this is negotiable but the cost for a ride guests are welcome to join in. Charles de Foucauld was beatified in Rome in November 2006. His religious order still exists and
to In Guezzam or Niger should be a few You can’t come to Assekrem and not today many people come on pilgrimages to Assekrem to walk in his footsteps and feel his spirit.
hundred dinars. get up for the sunrise. The view from the
refuge itself is stunning enough and in the
AROUND TAMANRASSET cooler months, the slopes surrounding it chat with the other guests. The food is good TASSILI DU HOGGAR ‫ﺗﺴﻴﻠﻲ اﻟﻬﻮﻗﺎر‬
Tamanrasset is situated in the mountainous are peppered with wildflowers, which the and plentiful – you’ll usually get salads, Traversed for many centuries by nomad
region of black volcanic rock known as the sunrise infuses with a dusky pink glow. The couscous, meat stews and fruit. It is freezing camel caravans bearing cloth, salt and spices,
Hoggar Mountains, home to Tahat (3000m) best way to experience the sunrise, though, at night so make sure you bring plenty of the Tassili du Hoggar, part of the Ahaggar
and Assekrem (2800m), and agencies can is to climb the hundred or so metres up warm clothes as well as a torch (flashlight) National Park, is a set of sedimentary rock
arrange all manner of trips in the Hoggar to the hermitage. This involves getting up in case the (rather unreliable) lights go out. plateaus that begins approximately 300km
and beyond. at about 5am (the folks at the refuge will There is also space for camping. south of Tamanrasset and extends to the
oblige you by giving you a wake-up knock) If you’re not on a prearranged tour, you Niger border. The plateau is characterised
Assekrem ‫أﺳﻴﺮم‬ and you won’t regret it. Watching the light can reserve a room at the refuge through by some of the most haunting landscapes
Immediately north of Tamanrasset, and part slowly creep across the wild and tortured Tim Missaw Tours (x029 347516/061, 649221; tim imaginable, presenting a mind-boggling
of the Ahaggar National Park, is the pla- mountains spread out beneath you is a sight [email protected]), whose owner also runs series of photo opportunities. Whale-back
teau of Atakor, a Tolkein-esque land of dry you’re unlikely to forget. the refuge. The organisation can also bring boulders and craggy mountains share bill-
earth and dark peaks, at the heart of which you up here; it costs DA7000 per person for ing space with enormous figures of sculpted
is Assekrem, 73km from Tamanrasset, where SLEEPING a return transfer from Tamanrasset. rock; squat round hulks stand alone like
Charles de Foucauld (see the boxed text, op- The only place to stay at Assekrem is the giant solitary mushrooms; and sharp pin-
posite) built his hermitage in 1911. Without refuge (B&B per person DA1200) whose price also GETTING THERE & AWAY nacles shoot to breathtaking heights, cling-
your own transport, getting out to the Ata- includes dinner. The refuge consists of a The only way to get up to Assekrem is to ing together in clusters to form bizarre city
kor plateau can be difficult, but it’s worth simple stone-walled building containing a hire a 4WD and driver from one of the skylines. Great swaths of creamy sand fill
making the effort to get up to Assekrem. couple of dormitories, as well as a few twin agencies in Tamanrasset. It is not possible the spaces in between.
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The route up to Assekrem is long and rooms in bungalows away from the main to hire a vehicle without a driver. It will
bumpy but the spectacular landscape more building and basic squat toilets away from cost from €80 per person per day including Information
than makes up for it. You drive through a the sleeping and eating areas. Guides and food and accommodation. You definitely The only way to get to the Tassili du Hog-
warped landscape where strange moun- guests alike reunite for meals and tea in a can’t walk there, although the Tamanrasset- gar is on a tour, and it is included on many
tains rise up from the rocky black plateau – homely living room, kept warm by a large based agencies can organise trips with cam- of the longer itineraries, often as part of a
many of them deeply scored as if they have fireplace. Dinners are taken en famille (all els from Tamanrasset if you want to do it trip from Tamanrasset to Djanet. All of the
been mauled by some mythical beast – together) and are a good opportunity to this way. travel agencies in Tamanrasset and Djanet
190 D J A N E T & T H E R O U T E D U TA S S I L I N ’ A J J E R Book accommodation online
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D J A N E T & T H E R O U T E D U TA S S I L I N ’ A J J E R • • I l l i z i 191
will be able to arrange a trip out here for bread made from semolina and then baked relaxed air. It is also the starting point for the main streets, set off by dark blue and
you. If you’re driving your own car through beneath hot coals in the sand. tours into the Tassili N’Ajjer National Park, gold lampposts that would look more at
the Algerian Sahara you’ll need to be ac- and during the high season, plane-loads of home in an English seaside town. The set-
companied by a guide anyway. IN GUEZZAM ‫ٳن ﻗﺰام‬ tourists from Europe arrive in the town ting is charming too – the town is built on
Despite what you might imagine there’s This town is 416km south of Tamanrasset each week. The Tassili N’Ajjer National the edge of a palmeraie so feels quite lush
plenty of animal life in the Sahara, although and is the last place in Algeria before you Park has one of the most important collec- and it is dwarfed by the mountains that sur-
you’re not likely to encounter a great deal. cross into Niger. The Algerian border post tions of prehistoric cave art in the world. round it. The town centre is tiny with a post
If you’re lucky, in the Tassili du Hoggar you is 10km south of In Guezzam, so there’s no It holds more than 15,000 drawings and office, bank, basic restaurants and shops,
might see gazelle, tiny, big-eared desert mice, need to stop here long. There’s not much to engravings which, like an open-air history although there’s no internet café.
or fennec – a desert fox. If you’re unlucky, do anyway; there’s no bank and one restau- lesson, tell the story of thousands of years Quiet during the week, the town sud-
you might come across a viper or a scorpion. rant. Border formalities happen here. of human evolution and environmental denly bursts into life come the weekend
This is not usually a problem in the cooler change within this area of the Sahara. when dozens of package tourists arrive on
winter months but be aware that scorpions Sleeping & Eating flights from Paris and Marseille (France).
like to hide in rock crevasses and sometimes There is only one restaurant in In Guezzam ILLIZI ‫إﻟﻴﺰى‬ They are all here for the main attraction –
shoes; and vipers have been known to hide which has OK food and also allows you to Nearly 300km south of In Amenas, Illizi the stunning collection of rock paintings in
just beneath the surface of the sand, so don’t stay overnight for a couple of hundred di- is the main settlement between there and the nearby Tassili N’Ajjer National Park.
run around with bare feet. nars. In theory it’s open 24 hours although Djanet. For a long time Illizi was called
this is rarely the case in practice. If you have ‘Fort Polignac’ and was a military post cre- Orientation
Sights & Activities a tent it is possible to find places to pitch it ated in 1904 by colonialists in order to keep Central Djanet is tiny so it’s impossible to
Most trips to this part of the country are by and free-camp in the environs of town. an eye on the Libyan border. get lost. Whether you enter the town from
4WD and you’ll normally drive a few hours The town boasts a fuel station, hospital, the north or the south you’ll end up on the
a day, in between which you’ll stop for walks, Getting There & Away basic shop, customs post and a hotel. There main street which has a collection of cafés,
to climb up dunes, to look at rock paintings Daily 4WD shared taxis go between Tama- are some interesting rock sites near here a couple of banks, a post office, a hospi-
or to gather wood for that evening’s fire. nrasset and In Guezzam on a fill-up-and- and a travel agency. tal and the Camping Zeriba. West of the
You’ll be assaulted by jaw-dropping go basis every morning at DA1500 a seat. If you really get stranded here there are main street is a large covered market and
beauty on a daily basis in the Tassili du Some people hitch a ride in a goods truck two flights a week to Algiers (DA1100, three the town’s palmeraie.
Hoggar, making it difficult to pick favour- for a couple of hundred dinars. But if you’re hours) and one a week to Ghardaïa (DA7300,
ites. But possible highlights of a trip here going to Niger, you are far better off getting two hours 10 minutes). The airport is 5km Information
include El-Ghessant, whose rock formations a group together in Tamanrasset and hiring north of town. The only hotel here is the There’s as large hospital in Ifri, 7km out of
look from a distance like a medieval for- a 4WD. From Tamanrasset it’s also possible Hotel Tahleb Larbi (x029 421733; fax 029 421181; s/d town, as well as a smaller hospital in the
tress, and Tin Tarabine, with its cracked earth to arrange a lift in a truck to Arlit or Agadez DA1100/1600) and there’s also a camp site. town centre. The Office National du Parc
and impressive examples of rock engravings. in Niger. Stock up with as much fuel as Mezrirene Aventure (xin France 49 30 32 70 37 70; Tassili (OPTN) is next to the museum and
Perhaps the most beautiful sight of all is possible in Tamanrasset as there have been fax 029 422323; www.mezrirene.com) can organise a issues permits to visit the Tassili N’Ajjer Na-
Tinakachaker, which is dominated by a great reports of fuel shortages in In Guezzam. variety of short excursions to sites around tional Park for DA100 per person, although
stone cathedral. All around it are gnarled Illizi as well as longer expeditions from Illizi your travel agency will usually organise this.
and twisted stone fingers forming a series of
valleys and corridors; and there are massive DJANET & THE ROUTE to Djanet. Tours cost from around €50 per
person per day on foot and from €70 for
There’s also a Banque Nationale d’Algérie
and a Banque de l’Agriculture et du Dével-
dunes from whose heights you’ll appreciate
the dreamlike splendour of the landscape to DU TASSILI N’AJJER tours in 4WDs. It also runs an auberge and
camp site for people on their tours.
oppement Rural on the main street. Both are
open Sunday to Thursday 9am to 3pm and
the full. At night it takes on a different char-
acter; the wind murmurs through the valleys ‫ﺟﻨﺖ وﻃﺮﻳﻖ اﻟﺘﺎﺳﻴﻠﻲ‬ AROUND ILLIZI
both offer foreign exchange although neither
changes travellers cheques. There’s also an
and dark stone figures loom from above like
the monsters of childhood nightmares. ‫اﻟﻨﺎﺟﺮ‬ Sights of interest near the town include
Tankena, which has a notable collection of
early stone tools, and Tamdjert, which has
ONAT office (x029 475361; place du Marché).
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Sleeping & Eating This route heads south from Hassi Mes- good examples of Neolithic paintings, in- There are several travel agencies in Djanet,
There are no camp sites or huts in the Tas- saoud along the Gassi Touil, a large oued cluding wonderfully fluid pictures of horse- all of whom offer excursions to the Tassili
sili du Hoggar, and on any trip here you’ll between two sections of the Grand Erg Ori- drawn chariots, hunters and dromedaries, N’Ajjer. Most of them work in collabora-
almost certainly be bivouacking out in the ental, to In Amenas, 730km to the south- as well some writing in Tifinagh – some of tion with European tour agencies and in the
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open, but lying out in your sleeping bag east and very close to the Libyan border the most ancient characters in the world. high season it can sometimes be difficult to
under a starry sky is all part of the fun. through Illizi and on to Djanet and the For more on rock art, see p80. arrange a last-minute tour. Most agencies
If you’re on a trip with a travel agency, Tassili N’Ajjer National Park. There is little don’t have offices in the centre of town,
you’ll be accompanied by a cook as well as traffic along this route and unless you have DJANET ‫ﺟﺎﻧﺖ‬ and those that do exist aren’t always open.
a guide, who’ll concoct three meals a day your own car it’s difficult to traverse. The main town of the Tassili, Djanet is a In addition, you won’t usually be permitted
and provide plenty of tea breaks. If you’re Djanet is a sleepy little oasis with white- pretty place with its own colour scheme: to join a group and will have to arrange
lucky they might make a traditional Tuareg washed buildings, a large palmeraie and a whitewashed buildings with blue doors line an individually tailored tour. If you haven’t
192 D J A N E T & T H E R O U T E D U TA S S I L I N ’ A J J E R • • D j a n e t lonelyplanet.com Book
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com D J A N E T & T H E R O U T E D U TA S S I L I N ’ A J J E R • • D j a n e t 193
DJANET 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
Tassili N’Ajjer plateau and on its animal and are rather cramped and the showers could
plant life and has some gazelle and sheep be cleaner but it’s the cheapest option in
skulls, ostrich eggs and ceramics. Another Djanet. There’s an airy courtyard and a TV
To Local Rock
Paintings (5km)
To Ksar Azellouaz (5km);
Essendilène Voyage (5.5km); room contains a beautiful photographic ex- room, and meals are available on demand.
Tassili N'Ajjer National
Park (12km); Tim Ras (20km); hibition of the rock paintings of the region. Ténéré Villages (x029 470049; www.tenerevoyages
Essendilène Canyon (60km);
Illizi (400km) INFORMATION The best exhibition contains reproductions .com; s/d/t DA2500/2800/4000) Seven and a half
Air Algérie.................................... 1 B2
Banque de l'Agriculture et du of nomad life, including a life-sized zeriba kilometres from Djanet in Ifri, on the way
To N’Ajjer National Park
(Abka Tafilalet) (12km)
Dévelopement Rural................. 2 B2 and Tuareg jewellery, weaponry and musi- out to the airport. This place has bright airy
Banque Nationale D'Algérie.......... 3 B2
16 Oue Hospital........................................ 4 B2 cal instruments. doubles in rondavels or bungalows, deco-
d Til
leila
ne
Office National du Parc Tassili About 30 minutes’ walk out of the town rated with imitation rock paintings. The
(OPTN).................................... 5 C2
ONAT.......................................... 6 B2 centre to the north is the Ksar Azellouaz, the best thing about this place is its restaurant
5
3
9
Post Office................................... 7 B2
Timbeur Voyages......................... 8 B2
remains of one of the oldest original settle- framed with a big old balcony giving splen-
14
4
Zeriba Voyages........................(see 11) ments in this area. It looks quite romantic did views out onto the dunes, mountains
18
17 from the outside and you can wander round and the Tassili Plateau. There’s also a great
Palm
1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

11
7
13 6 Musée du Tassili.......................... 9 C2 the old streets and hollow, crumbling build- traditional tented area where you can take
er
Viewpoint.................................. 10 B2
2 ing but the romance is ruined by all of the snacks and drinks bang on the side of the
aie
15 12
8
SLEEPING scattered tin cans and animal skulls and dunes. The only down side is the distance
Camping Zeriba.......................... 11 B2
bones. Further afield, about an hour’s walk from town – it’s only worth staying here if
10 EATING north of town, there are some rock paintings you have a car.
Cafés.......................................... 12 B2
including elephant, cattle and giraffe. Walk Camping Zeriba (x065 594472, 062 067719, x/
Centre
Food Stalls...............................(see 17)

Patisserie.................................... 13 B2 out past the covered market; turn north and fax 029 475546; www.zeribavoyage.com; r with/without
Ville
Restaurant Gazelle...................... 14 B2
continue past the palmeraie, and after about bathroom DA3200/1500, camping DA400) This is the
SHOPPING
Market....................................... 15 B2
an hour you’ll hit the sealed road. Turn only place to stay in the centre of Djanet
Market....................................... 16 A1 left – the paintings are hidden in the rocks and it’s located right on the main street.
TRANSPORT
about 50m in front of you. It’s best to ask It’s a large friendly place with a variety of
To Ifri (6.5km); Youth Hostel (7km);
Tenéré Villages (7km); Erg Admer (20km);
Local Bus Stop............................ 17 B2 in town first before you head out there. If rooms; the rooms with bathrooms also have
Long Distance Taxis.................(see 17)
Tagharghart (30km); Airport (35 km);
Libya (80 km) Petrol......................................... 18 C2
you’re staying at Zeriba staff will probably TVs. The place is not in great nick but at
give you a lift. the time of writing was undergoing renova-
tions. There’s a large area for camping, a
arranged a tour in advance your best bet such as trips to Erg Admer and Tagharghart as well as longer Festivals & Events zeriba in which to take tea and a restaurant.
is to contact Zeriba Voyages, whose office expeditions to the Tassili N’Ajjer and the Tassili du Hoggar. The biggest festival in Djanet is the Sebiba. There’s no menu and meals normally con-
is usually open and able to organise ex- These cost from about €50 per person per day including Tuareg from around the Tassili N’Ajjer resist of soup followed by couscous and meat
cursions at short notice, or ONAT. Prices airport transfers, taxes, guide, cook and all food. gion meet in Djanet to remember and to re- then fruit. Zeriba also has a tour agency.
range from €50 to €80 a day including food Timtar Expeditions (x029 346038; www.timtar.com) construct an ancient peace agreement that
and equipment, depending on how many Has camel, trekking and 4WD expeditions as well as ended a long conflict between two warring Eating
people there are in your party. interesting alternatives to the usual treks such as family Tuareg tribes – the El-Mihane and the Azel- There are a few small restaurants around the
Essendilène Voyages (x029 475295; www.essend circuits. Between October and May it also offers week-long louaz. The event lasts for 10 days leading town centre serving the usual chicken, chips,
ilene-voyages.com) This outfit organises trips all over and group lessons on how to drive in the desert. up to the reconstruction, all in traditional couscous and stews. They’re all pretty simi-
southern Algeria and down into the Ténéré and Aïr regions Zeriba Voyage (x061 382853/346924; www.zeriba costume, of the last battle between the two lar but you could try Restaurant Gazelle for
of Niger. If asked well in advance it can also organise a voyage.com) Based at the hotel of the same name, Zeriba tribes. Women in their most beautiful jew- tasty stews and couscous, or there’s a nice
number of specialised trips into the desert including yoga Voyage can organise a variety of excursions, the most ellery cheer on the men. large café opposite the bus station which
and trekking, art therapy and family trips for children over popular being trips to Tassili N’Ajjer and longer trips from is full of locals and a good place for coffee
the age of two or three. They are also involved in projects Djanet to Tamanrasset. This organisation is a good bet if Sleeping and people-watching. There are also several
that help the local community benefit from tourism. you arrive in Djanet without a pre-arranged tour. Tours There’s not much choice in Djanet. If you snack stalls selling eggs, peanuts and tea
Rêves et Nature (x029 475860; www.voyages-tim cost from around €60 per person per day for a trek into the don’t have a vehicle the only viable option is behind the bus stops. A great little patisserie
beur.com) As well as camel and 4WD group and individu- Tassili N’Ajjer with pack animals. Camping Zeriba on the central drag. With next to ONAT sells a selection of French
ally tailored tours, Rêves et Nature offers assisted 4WD and a car you could stay at the youth hostel or and Algerian pastries. In the evenings it
motorbike tours through the desert, where you drive your Sights & Activities the hotel called Ténéré Villages, both about does good pizzas to take away or you can
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& THE SAHARA

own vehicle and are accompanied by an experienced guide. For magnificent views over town walk up 7km out of town. At the time of research cram in at the counter with the locals. You
If you’re going to arrive in Djanet on your own, it can help to the top of the hill just behind the town Timbeur Voyages was constructing a new can pick up fruit, vegetables and meat at a
put you in touch with like-minded travellers so you can centre, taking the steps opposite the market. 20-room lodge on the outskirts of Djanet. small market just off the main road.
share the expenses of a trip. The Musée du Tassili (h8am-5pm, closed Thu & Fri) Youth hostel (x029 470261; dm DA200) Djanet’s
Timbeur Voyages (x029 75270; www.voyages-tim has a small collection of exhibits detailing youth hostel is located 7km from the town Shopping
beur.com) With offices next to the market this is one of Djan- the history and environment of the region. centre off the airport road and has 30 beds The main drag contains quite a few tourist-
et’s most established agencies. It offers short expeditions One room concentrates on the formation of in three- and four-bed dorms. The rooms oriented shops selling jewellery, handicrafts,
194 D J A N E T & T H E R O U T E D U TA S S I L I N ’ A J J E R • • A r o u n d D j a n e t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com DJANE T & THE ROUTE DU TASSILI N’A JJER • • Tassili N’Ajjer National Park 195
postcards and the like. They can be quite from around 6000 years ago. Near the en- Information featuring a number of beautifully fluid
expensive though and you’re best off head- gravings is a fantastic camping spot, where You are not allowed to enter the area with- scenes. You’ll see distinctive, round-headed
ing to the market for cheaper prices. There’s you can bivouac at the top of the dunes with out an official guide. Treks up to the Tas- figures, including a mother and child, and
a market just off the main road containing superb views over the mountains and the sili N’Ajjer plateau are the mainstay of the a couple of jewel-draped, tattooed women
fruit and veg stalls, a couple of tourist stalls Tassili plateau itself. travel agencies in Djanet so once there it who appear to be on the point of dancing;
and several butchers – you may even see Also worth a look is Erg Admer. About should be possible to arrange a trip heading also interesting are a long-horned mouflon
severed camel heads on display. There’s a 20km west of Djanet, this is the place to out within days, for which you’ll usually be and a curious circular creature that’s remi-
much bigger, mostly covered market become for a trek through those stereotypical accompanied by a guide, a herder, and sev- niscent of a jellyfish. An hour’s walk to the
tween the oued and the palmeraie selling sculpted dunes or to have mint tea at sun- eral pack animals to carry your bags, food, east from Tamrit is Timenzouzine – where
clothing, shoes, cooking pots, electronics, set. For the more adventurous, many tour water and cooking equipment. you’ll find an impressive elephant, engraved
and even spare parts. This is also where you companies in Djanet can arrange for a few The Tassili N’Ajjer plateau is accessed via on a flat slab on the ground, complete with
can find the best-value jewellery and crafts. hours of dune skiing. one of two very steep passes, which can only stepladder for getting a better view.
There are a couple of stalls on the outskirts About 30km north of Djanet off the road be traversed on foot. The most common The next major site on from Tamrit is Sefar,
of the market on the palmeraie side where towards Illizi is Tim Ras, where wide sandy starting point for trips onto the plateau is some 12km or about a four-hour walk away.
you can see the artists at work. planes dotted with jagged mountains give Akba Tafilalet, 12km east of Djanet. You’re It’s a tough but spectacular hike through av-
way to broad boulevards of pockmarked likely to be driven out at an ungodly hour enues of stone pillars. Sefar has some of the
Getting There & Away rocks, towering like huge deformed bee- of the morning to this pass where you’ll be most famous paintings in the park, repre-
AIR hives – a magical place to spend the night. met by your pack animals. From here, the senting a number of different periods. You’ll
There is an Air Algérie (x029 475032; h8am- More than 60km north of Djanet is the climb to the top of the plateau, through a see battle scenes, archers, antelope, giraffes,
noon & 1-4pm, closed Thu afternoon & Fri) office in the Essendilène Canyon, known for its incredible series of steep slopes and gorges, takes two masks and, most famously, the Great God
town centre. The airstrip is 35km from town. biodiversity. Inside you’ll find palm trees, to three hours, and once you reach the top of Sefar – a devilish-looking horned figure,
Air Algérie flies twice a week to Algiers acacias and cool green pools of water. it’s another two hours to Tamrit, the first rising high above the others.
(DA13,500, two to three hours), and once camping spot. A good two days’ walk 30km south of
a week to Ouargla (DA9000, 1½ hours) and TASSILI N’AJJER NATIONAL PARK The best time to go to the park is Novem- Sefar is Jabbaren, perhaps the most famous
Tamanrasset (DA4000, 50 minutes). Aigle Azur ‫ﺗﺎﺳﻴﻠﯥ اﻟﻨﺎﺟﺮ اﻟﺤﻮض اﻟﻮﺻﻨﻲ‬ ber to April as this is the coolest time of year. sight of all, which features thousands of
(www.aigle-azur.fr) operates direct international This Unesco World Heritage site covers an From May to September the daytime tem- paintings carried out by successive civili-
fights to Paris and Marseille (France). area of about 80,000 sq km. Tassili N’Ajjer peratures can prove to be uncomfortably hot sations, including graceful cattle, horned
means ‘Plateau of Chasms’; and the chasms, and can get as high as 40°C. Bear in mind goddesses, hippopotamuses, dancers and
BUS canyons and stone forests of this strange, that during the winter it can be freezing up round-headed figures.
There are no long-distance buses to and prehistoric landscape, formed by thousand on the plateau at night. Take plenty of warm In three days you could go up the Akba
from Djanet. Minibuses leave from the of years of volcanic activity and erosion, are clothes and a suitable sleeping bag. Tafilalet pass and get to see Tamrit, Tan
town centre to go to the surrounding vil- home to a dramatic open-air art exhibition. This is not a national park in the tradi- Zoumaitek and Timenzouzine; four or five
lages and cost around DA15 per ride. Imprinted in hidden caves and on rock faces tional sense; you won’t come across park days and you could make it to Sefar and
are some 15,000 rock paintings that tell the wardens and there is no official entry gate back. To reach Jabbaren you would need
TAXI story of the evolution of human and animal but it is a nationally protected area and you to do a circular seven-day trek – taking in
Shared taxis leave for Illizi from the town life in this part of the Sahara. They recall must act accordingly. The rock paintings the aforementioned sights, walking another
centre at around 6am daily. The journey times when the Sahara was green and fertile; are very fragile. Don’t use a flash when pho- serious two days to Jabbaren, then descend-
takes around six hours and costs DA1000. when men hunted in the valleys and lion, tographing them and never wet the painting at Akba Aghoum pass, south of the entry
Taxis also head for the Libyan border at elephant, antelope and buffalo roamed the ings in order to get a brighter picture. point at Akba Tafilalet. Jabbaren can also be
Tin Alkoum but it is currently closed to plains. They also attest to the more ‘recent’ reached via the Aghoum Pass, on a back-
foreigners. history of the Sahara and you’ll see illus- Sights & Activities breaking one-day tour involving a steep
trations of horses, chariots and dromedar- Tamrit is the first sight you’ll see when you and punishing climb starting at the break
AROUND DJANET ies. It’s thought that the first human beings reach the top of the plateau – a vast mass of of dawn to see the paintings and descend-
The reason most people come to this part of settled here more than two million years ago weathered, sand-covered stone and conical ing again before dark.
the world is to trek in the Tassili N’Ajjer and and that the Tassili rock paintings date back towers. It’s also home to the Valley of the Cy-
see its famous rock paintings; but this area as far as 7000 or 6000 BC. For in-depth in- presses. The trees are thousands of years old Getting There & Away
has a great deal more on offer. About half formation on Algeria’s rock art, see p80. and you’ll find a handful of these knotted The only way to get to the Tassili N’Ajjer
an hour’s drive out of Djanet, off the road The existence of such paintings would be giants spread out along a surprisingly green is on a guided tour. There are a number
& THE SAHARA
& THE SAHARA

to the airport, is Tagharghart. Hidden among reason enough to visit, but the surround- valley. Tamrit has plenty of good camping of different options offered by the agen-
the rock faces and the sand dunes is one of ing landscape makes a stay here even more spots and is usually the base for the first day cies in Djanet ranging from a one-day trip
the most famous engravings in this area, incredible. The majority of the paintings are or so of exploration on the plateau. to Jabbaren to a comprehensive seven-day
called La Vache qui Pleure, or Crying Cows. It up on a plateau, some 600m above Djanet, There are a number of sights of interest circuit. Prices start from €50 to €60 a day
features three graceful, long-horned cattle and can only be reached on foot – it’s a four- here. About one hour’s walk north of Tam- depending on the number of people in your
and is so called because of the teardrops hour climb to the top, scrambling up rock rit is Tan Zoumaitek – the highlight of which party. For further details on Djanet’s travel
falling from their eyes. It is thought to date faces and through narrow, shady canyons. is a large fresco painted in ochre and white agencies, see p191.
196 lonelyplanet.com
& THE SAHARA
DIREC TORY 196 lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s 197
DIREC TORY
with rooms in bungalows, traditional-style of the scale, hotels only have toilets, not
Directory houses or rondavels and plenty of local art-

work and fabrics on display. Rooms tend
to be simple, often with shared facilities,
bathroom facilities and you will need to
use a neighbouring hammam (bathroom)
or public showers. The standard of cleanli-
but are always spotless. At the majority of ness varies greatly from the spic and span
PRACTICALITIES auberges you pay per person on a half- or to the downright filthy, with some cheap
CONTENTS Newspapers and magazines – The major full-board basis. Meals are usually taken hotels seeming to double up as brothels.
French-language dailies are Le Quotidien with the other guests and the emphasis is Always ask to see the room first.
Accommodation 196 on providing good quality regional cook- Midrange hotels differ greatly. Many are
d’Oran, El-Watan, and Le Soir d’Algérie.
Activities 197 ing. Many of these places will also organise state run and tend to be run down, with
The most popular Arabic-language
Business Hours 198 activities and tours. indifferent service and shabby interiors; but
paper is El Khabar.
Children 198 they are often the only viable choice and
Radio and TV – There are three main
Climate Charts 199 Camping are normally well located. You’ll also find
Customs 199 state-owned radio stations. Channel 1
There are a number of camp sites in the more modern, private places oriented at
Dangers & Annoyances 199 is in Arabic, Channel 2 in Berber and
country, particularly along the tourist trail tourists and businessmen. At the midrange
Embassies & Consulates 200 Channel 3 in French. There are also
in the Sahara. In the north the sites are level you’ll normally get satellite TV, air-
Festivals & Events 201 around 20 local radio stations. The main
limited to a few low-key resorts along the conditioning and hot water. Most hotels
Food & Drink 201 state-run TV station is called ENTV.
coast. However, due to years of neglect dur- at this price range include breakfast in the
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 202 Electricity – Algeria uses the 220V ing the ’90s, many camp sites are closed or room rate, which usually consists of coffee,
Holidays 202 system. Outlets take European-style open only sporadically. Those that are open bread and jam, and if you’re lucky a yogurt
Insurance 202 two-pin round plugs. often lack decent facilities. Camp sites cost or some pastries. The majority of hotels in
Internet Access 202 Weights and Measures – Algeria uses between DA200 and DA500 per person, this price range have their own restaurant
Legal Matters 203 the metric system. and there is usually an additional charge of and many in the south have swimming
Maps 203 about DA200 if you have a car. It’s not usu- pools. In this category you’ll find many es-
Money 203 ally possible to hire camping equipment. tablishments with bars selling alcohol.
Photography & Video 204 The high tourist season runs from You will also come across guesthouses In the north many of the hotel buildings
Post 204 November to March in the south when (called, rather confusingly campings), which date back to the colonial days and still have
Shopping 204 temperatures are cooler; and the warmer cater to foreign tourists. Many have camp the original fittings and furnishings: win-
Solo Travellers 205 summer months of June to September in sites attached or space to pitch a tent. These dow shutters, washbasin, bidet, wardrobe
Telephone 205 the north. At any time of year it pays to are more expensive than ordinary camp sites and a bed which may be so old it wouldn’t
Time 206 make reservations well in advance for ac- but tend to be clean and well managed with be out of place in a museum.
Toilets 206 commodation in Algiers; the lack of avail- excellent shared facilities and good food. At the luxury end of the scale, accommo-
Tourist Information 206 ability there is notorious. It’s also advisable dation is in fairly short supply in most Al-
Travellers with Disabilities 206 to make reservations for resorts along the Hostels gerian towns, and plush international-class
Visas 206 Mediterranean coast. In the south you can There is a system of YHA (Youth Hostel As- hotels tend to be limited to Algiers and the
Women Travellers 207 usually find a room without a problem but sociation) hostels throughout the country big northern cities. Hotels at the top end
the nicest establishments might be full with offering dorm beds for DA100 to DA150. of the scale often accept credit cards, many
tour groups during the high season. Some The standard is normally basic with spartan will change foreign currency and some have
ACCOMMODATION camp sites and guesthouses in the south dorms and shared facilities. There’s usually wireless internet access. They will usually
In this guide ‘budget’ refers to establish- close during the hotter summer months also some sort of common room with a have a choice of good quality restaurants
ments that charge under DA1500 a night of May to September, when the weather TV or games, as well as a basic café serving and a bar.
for a double room; ‘midrange’ refers to es- is uncomfortably hot and there are fewer snacks. The major drawback is that they are
tablishments that charge between DA1500 tourists. often inconveniently located; and they are ACTIVITIES
and DA3500; and ‘top end’ refers to all es- not like the backpackers hostels you’ll find Cycling
tablishments that charge over DA3500 for Auberges in Southern Africa. You’re unlikely to meet Cycling isn’t a common way to visit Algeria,
a double room for the night. A much nicer alternative to hotels are lo- other travellers there, they aren’t all that but there are a small number of travellers
Outside of the large northern cities or cally run auberges, also known as a gîte secure and they aren’t really suitable for who visit the country by bicycle. As long as
the tourist towns of the south, really good or chambres d’hôtes. In the south these are single women – as there are so few women you have sufficient time and are willing to
hotel facilities are few and far between. often called campings and although their travellers in Algeria, you’re liable to end up rough it, cycling can be a fun way to see the
Single rooms are rare but you’ll normally purpose is not as a camp site in the tradi- in a dorm all on your own. country. There are no specific cycleways,
be charged a slightly reduced ‘single’ price tional sense, they often have space where but the roads are in good condition. You’ll
to stay in a twin or double room. Prices you can put up your tent and have access to Hotels certainly be an oddity cycling on the main
tend to stay the same all year although shower facilities and meals. Normally ori- At the budget end you can expect a basic highways and will have to pay strict atten-
you can often get discounts during the low ented towards the tourist trade, these places double room with sink, shared facilities tion – Algerian drivers are careless at the
season. tend to have more character than hotels, and sometimes a fan. At the lowest end best of times.
DIREC TORY 198 D I R E C T O R Y • • B u s i n e s s H o u r s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • C l i m a t e C h a r t s 199
DIREC TORY
Cycling in southern Algeria can present Watersports CLIMATE CHARTS For further information on the best time to
a problem, however. Due to current restric- There are many ways to enjoy Algeria’s In the north summers are hot and humid, travel in Algeria see p14.
tions you’ll need to be accompanied, which stunning coastline other than just swim- and the winters mild and wet. In the Sa-
means getting a guide in a car to follow ming or sunbathing. Sailing boats, snor- hara summer is ferociously hot with day- CUSTOMS
you. The best time to cycle in the Sahara kelling and windsurfing equipment can time temperatures seldom below 25°C, There’s no longer any limit on importing
is the cooler, drier period from November often be hired in the major tourist spots but the nights can be very cold, particu- bank notes or travellers cheques into the
to March. and during the summer season it’s pos- larly in the Hoggar region. Rainfall ranges country. However, on entering the country
A highly recommended contact is Bicycle sible to arrange scuba trips and fishing from more than 1000mm per year in the you’ll have to fill in a currency declaration
Africa (x /fax 1-206-767 0848; www.ibike.org/bike excursions. northern mountains to zero in the Sahara. form. On it you must list all the foreign
africa; 4887 Columbia Drive South, Seattle, WA98108-1919, Some places go decades without a drop. currency that you’re bringing into Algeria
USA). Alternatively, SabléO (x33 06 79 95 78 44; BUSINESS HOURS Average
in both cash and travellers cheques as well
www.sableo.com; 1 Lot Jules Comes 66720 Tautavel, France) Banks are usually open from around ALGIERS 82m (25ft) Max/Min as declare any valuables that you might be
offers regular cycling trips to the Hoggar 8.30am in the morning till 3.30pm in the °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm bringing into the country. This includes
Mountains. afternoon, often with a one-hour break for 50 122 6 150
cameras, video equipment, jewellery and
lunch around noon. Shops and businesses 40 104 electrical goods. The form has space on
Desert Trekking will usually close a couple of hours later at 30 86
4 100 which to record all official transactions you
There are numerous trekking options in Al- around 5.30pm. Most cafés are open all day make during your stay; in theory this will
20 68
geria, the most popular being the Hoggar, from around 9am to 9pm. Restaurants are 2 50 be checked by customs when you leave the
the Tassili N’Ajjer and the Grand Ergs. Op- open from around noon to 2pm for lunch 10 50 country and if it doesn’t tally up you’ll be
tions include walking, 4WD tours, camel and 7pm to 10pm for dinner. 0 32 0 0 fined. In reality this form is rarely checked
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
treks and even motorbike tours. In the deep The Algerian weekend is Thursday and and even it is, it will only be given a cursory
south treks are normally organised for small Friday but several banks and offices open glance.
groups, and you must be accompanied by till around noon on Thursday. OUARGLA 150m (492ft)
Average
Max/Min
You’re allowed to bring in 200 ciga-
a qualified guide before undertaking such During the holy month of Ramadan, °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm rettes, 50g of perfume and 1L of liquor or
a trek (see p66). most restaurants are closed and many busi- 50 122 6 150 2L of wine. It is illegal to import weapons,
nesses and shops will close early. Business 40 104
handcuffs, body armour and binoculars.
Dune Skiing hours will not be listed in this book unless 4 100 Algerian dinar must be exchanged before
30 86
A fun way to explore the dunes of the they differ from the above. leaving the country.
Grand Ergs or Erg Admer is on a pair of 20 68
2 50
You should also heed the restriction on
skis. This is not often on official itinerar- CHILDREN 10 50 taking artefacts out of the country. Over the
ies but many companies can arrange this Algeria has few formal children’s attractions 0 32 0 0
years souvenir hunters and archaeological
for you. It’s literally a question of hauling or childcare facilities, however the strange J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D expeditions have targeted areas such as the
yourself up the nearest dune, strapping on landscapes of Southern Algeria are bound Tassili N’Ajjer and the Hoggar. The penal-
a pair of real skis and bombing down again to make a profound impression on them. TAMANRASSET 1403m (4603ft)
Average ties for doing so are severe and you could
Max/Min
with a trail of sand flying behind you. Agen- Algerians are family-oriented people who have to pay a large fine or might even end
°C Temp °F in Rainfall mm
cies that can arrange this include Zeriba tend to be very friendly towards children 50 122 6 150
up in prison.
Voyages (p192) in Djanet. and travelling with children can sometimes
help to break the ice. Having said that, it 40 104
4 100
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Rock-Climbing can be difficult to travel independently with 30 86 Crime
The area around Tamanrasset in the Hog- children in Algeria. Road journeys are long 20 68 Petty crime in Algeria has increased over the
2 50
gar Mountains is the best place for rock- and uncomfortable and outside of Algiers 10 50
past few years, particularly in large urban
climbing in Algeria, and its spectacular it can be difficult to find canned baby food, centres of the north. Theft, mugging, car-
0 32 0 0
rock formations attract a small but serious wipes, disposable nappies or reliable medi- J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D jacking, bag snatching and assault happen
number of rock climbers from Europe. cal facilities. as well, especially in urban areas. Don’t carry
Most of the tour companies in Taman- The best way to travel with children in Average
around large amounts of cash and keep an
rasset will arrange rock-climbing tours Algeria is to organise things in advance. TINDOUF 443m (1453ft) Max/Min eye on your valuables, particularly when en-
given advance notice. For further infor- Indeed many tourist agencies in the south °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm
tering the Casbah in Algiers. The far south of
50 122 6 150
mation you could also check out Esca- have developed special family- or child- the country tends to be safer when it comes
lade au Sahara published by DP Editions, friendly trips with a gentler pace. Essendiléne 40 104 to crime, but still watch out for pickpock-
which gives detailed illustrations and Voyages (x 029 475295; www.essendilene-voyages 30 86
4 100
ets operating in the markets of large towns
instructions of the different routes you .com) in Djanet can organise special voyages 20 68
and in crowds. Also, don’t leave valuables
can take (complete with advice on equip- familiaux for families with toddlers and up. 2 50 on display in the car and look for guarded
ment and timescale) and includes plenty Terres d’Aventure (x33 08 25 84 78 00; www.terdav 10 50
overnight parking places wherever possible.
of beautiful colour photos of the Hoggar .com) organises week-long trips in Algeria 0 32 0 0 You might be less likely to get hassled by
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
Mountains. for kids as young as six. vendors or hustlers or ripped off in Algeria
DIREC TORY 200 D I R E C T O R Y • • E m b a s s i e s & C o n s u l a t e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 201
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that you might be in other countries in the of which involved a number of expatriate
region however. There are relatively few workers. The GSPC was also responsible GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE
tourists in Algeria and people have yet to for the kidnapping of more than 30 foreign The following government websites offer travel advisories and information on current hot
become adept at taking them for a ride. tourists in 2003 in the desert and moun- spots.
tainous regions of southeastern Algeria, and Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (x1300 139 281; www.smarttraveller.gov.au)
Earthquakes the group has claimed responsibility for a British Foreign Office (x0845-850-2829; www.fco.gov.uk/countryadvice)
Northern Algeria is a seismic zone. In 2003 number of small-scale attacks in Algeria and Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs (x800-267-6788; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca)
an earthquake hit the area east of Algiers in neighbouring countries throughout 2006. French Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.diplomatie.gouv.fr/fr/conseils-aux-voyageurs_909/index.html)
destroying houses, killing more than 2000 A serious attack in April 2007, for which Al- German Federal Foreign Office (x49 30 50 00 0; www.austwaertiges-amt.de)
people and injuring 10,000 others. If you Qaeda claims responsibility, killed dozens Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs (x81 3-3580-3311; www.mofa.go.jp)
find yourself in an earthquake when you’re and injured more than 100 people. New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade (x644-439 8000; www.safetravel.govt.nz)
inside, stay away from windows and exte- Expeditions into the Sahara pose a whole US State Department (x888-407-4747; http://travel.state.gov)
rior walls and stand in a doorway. If you host of other problems, from fuel short-
are outside, find an open space away from ages to sandstorms and bandits, and inde-
buildings, trees and electric masts. If you’re pendent travel in the desert regions south Canada (x021 914951; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/world Aïd el-Fitr This major Islamic holiday marks the end of
driving park on the side of the road and of Ghardaïa is currently forbidden by the /embassies/algeria; 18 rue Mustapha Khalef, Ben Aknoun, Ramadan.
wait for the vibrations to end. Algerian government (see the boxed text, Algiers) Aïd el-Kébir (December 2007/November 2008) Celebrates
p181). Before you undertake any expedition Denmark (x021 548228; www. ambalgier.um.dk/da; Abraham’s readiness to sacrifice his son to God on his
Road Safety in Algeria, check out the security situation 12 av Emilie Marquis, Hydra, Algiers) command, and the last-ditch substitution of a ram. It also
Algeria has some of the craziest drivers thoroughly. France (x021 692488; www.ambafrance-dz.org; 25 coincides with the end of the pilgrimage to Mecca and is
around so take extra care while driving in Chemin A Gadouche, Hydra, Algiers) marked by great feasts with roasted sheep and a two-day
the country. Driving in the south presents EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Germany (Map pp88-9;x021 741941; www.algier.diplo public holiday.
a whole host of other problems from sand Algerian Embassies & Consulates .de/Vertretung/algier/de/Startseite.html; 165 Chemin Eid a-Moulid (March 2008/February 2009) Celebrates
storms to camels crossing. Overland travel Australia (x02-6286 7355; www.algeriaemb.org.au; Sfindja, Algiers) the birth of the Prophet Mohammed and takes place three
between major cities is not advised after 9 Terrigal Crescent, O’Malley, ACT 2606) Libya (x021 921502; 15 Chemin Cheikh Bachir el- months after Aïd el-Kébir.
dark, particularly in the mountainous re- Canada (x613-789-8505; www.ambassadeAlgérie.ca; Ibrahimi, El-Biar)
gion of the north. You should also watch 500 Wilbord Street, Ottowa, Ontario K1n 6N2) Mali (x021 691351; Cité DNC/ANP, Villa No 15, Hydra) Other Events
out for false roadblocks in the north, par- France consulate (x01 41 50 48 48; www.consulat-Al Mauritania (x021 937106; 30 rue du Vercors) Yennayer (January) Celebrated across the country, this
ticularly in the Kabylie region, which often gérie-bobigny.org; 17 rue Hector Berlioz, 93000 Bobigny); Morocco (x021 607408; 8 rue des Cédres, Parc de la annual festival celebrates the start of the Berber new
leads to kidnapping. For further advice on embassy (x01 53 93 20 20; ambassadeAlgé[email protected]; Reine) year.
travel on the roads see p76. 50 Rue de Lisbonne, 75008 Paris) Niger (x021 788921; 54 rue du Vercors)
Germany (x49-30-437370; www.algerische-botschaft Tunisia (x021 691388; 11 rue du Bois de Bologne) FOOD & DRINK
Security .de; Görschstraße 45-46, D-13187 Berlin) UK (Map pp88-9;x021 230068; www.britishembassy.gov Outside the major cities you won’t find
Although safety in the region has increased, Libya (x21821 3610877; 12 rue de Kairouran, Tripoli) .uk/algeria; 7th fl, Hilton International Hotel, Pins Maritimes, much choice when it comes to eating out.
particularly in the south, travellers must Mali (x220 45 72; BP 2 Daoudabougou, Bamako) Algiers) Most ‘restaurants’ are in reality identikit
still take precautions while travelling here Mauritania (x525 40 07; BP 625 Nouakchott) USA (x021 691255; http://algiers.usembassy.gov; cafés, with limited menus (they all seem to
and be aware of the risk of terrorism. For- Morocco Casablanca (x212 2804175; 159, blvd Moulay 4 Chemin Cheikh Bachir el-Ibrahimi, El-Biar) specialise in chicken and chips) and an all-
eigners are not usually targets of violence, Idriss 1er, Casablanca); Oujda (x212 55710452; 12, rue male clientele. In most towns in Algeria the
and mostly it is the security forces that are d’Azrou, Oujda) FESTIVALS & EVENTS only place to get an alcoholic drink is in the
targeted, but the indiscriminate nature of Niger (x20 72 35 83; BP 142, Niamey) Religious Holidays more upmarket or state-run hotels.
bomb attacks on public places (such as Netherlands (x070 352 29 54; www.embalgeria.nl; During the most important Islamic holi- Stalls selling street food aren’t wide-
markets and bus and train stations) makes Van Stolklaan 1, 2585 JS, The Hague) days much commercial life grinds to a halt spread in Algeria and what you do find is
caution extremely advisable. Tunisia (x216 71 846740; www.consalg.com.tn; 83 av in Algeria. The Islamic calendar is based quite basic. At most you’ll see stalls selling
This is particularly a problem in the north Jugurtha, Tunis) on 12 lunar months totalling 354 or 355 boiled eggs, peanuts and tea, all of which
of the country and advice at the time of UK & Ireland consulate (x 020-7589 6885; www.alge days, so the following holidays always occur you can get a serving of for around DA10.
writing was that particular caution should rianconsulate.org.uk; 6 Hyde Park Gate, London SW7 5EW); about 11 days earlier than they did the pre- Occasionally you’ll see stalls selling kebabs
be exercised around Algiers and in the embassy (x 020-7221 7800; www.algerianembassy.org vious year. The exact dates are based on the (although these are usually outside cafés or
northwest of the country. In 2004 the ter- .uk; 54 Holland Park W11 3RS) moon and only announced shortly before restaurants), which go for around DA100
rorist group GSPC – the Salafist Group for USA (x202-265-2800; www.algeria-us.org; 2118 the event. a pop. Most of the stalls selling street food
Call and Combat – identified foreigners as Kalorama Rd NW, Washington SCN 20008) Ramadan (begins September 2007/August 2008) The are to be found near marketplaces or bus
a legitimate target and in September 2006 ninth month of the Muslim calendar is the annual fasting stations (gares routières).
it reiterated its terrorist agenda and links Embassies & Consulates in Algeria month when Muslims do not eat or drink during daylight Budget restaurants (as listed in this
with Al-Qaeda; in 2007 it changed its name Australia Australia does not have an embassy or consu- hours, but break their fast after sundown. Throughout guide) are places where you can get a meal
to Al-Qaeda. In 2006 there were a series of late in Algeria. Consular assistance for Australian citizens is Ramadan offices start to wind down early in the day. Most for DA500 and under. At the budget end
bomb attacks carried out in Algeria, one provided by the Canadian embassy. restaurants are closed during this period. of the scale you’ll find no-frills local cafés
DIREC TORY 202 D I R E C T O R Y • • G a y & Le s b i a n T r a v e l l e r s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • Le g a l M a t t e r s 203
DIREC TORY
and restaurants with a small choice of menu INSURANCE expensive hotels chains in Algiers, you’re p14 for information on the costs involved
items, such as omelette with vegetables or A travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss unlikely to find hotels with wireless inter- in travelling in Algeria.
chips, couscous and meat, grilled kebabs, and medical problems is essential. Some net connections. Where they can be found
or chicken and chips. You won’t be given policies specifically exclude dangerous ac- we have used the internet symbol (i) to ATMs
a menu, they’ll normally just come up and tivities, which can include motorcycling, denote this. You won’t have much luck getting money
tell you what they have; a basket of bread is camel trekking and even trekking and travel out of ATMs in Algeria. In fact, you will
always included in the price. across the Sahara. Check that the policy cov- LEGAL MATTERS be lucky if you even see an ATM. They are
The midrange restaurants (in which you ers an emergency flight home and choose When you are in Algeria make sure to re- practically unheard of in Southern Algeria
might actually be handed a physical menu!) one that covers a large sum towards medical spect local laws and penalties, including and those that you do find tend not to ac-
tend to have more comfortable surround- expenses in case you need to be evacuated those that seem overly harsh; they do apply cept foreign cards. Rumour has it, though,
ings, but you can still eat for between from the Sahara; this can be very expensive. to you. Your government will certainly try that the ATMs belonging to the Credit Pop-
DA500 and DA1000. You’ll get more choice You might prefer a policy that pays doctors to help you if you get arrested or end up in ulaire d’Algérie do accept European ATM
at this price range. or hospitals on the spot rather than having prison, but it can’t get you off the hook. The cards.
‘Top end’ refers to establishments that to pay up and claim later. possession, use and trafficking of controlled
cost DA1000 and over where you can get For more advice about health insurance substances are all serious criminal offences Black Market
top-class Algerian cooking as well as a good policies, see p218. For information about in Algeria, which carry custodial sentences, A so-called ‘black market’ does still exist in
range of French and international food; motor insurance, see p215. Worldwide and the Algerian authorities have recently Algeria, although it is not as widespread as
most top-end restaurants also serve alcohol. travel insurance is available at www.lonely announced new measures to crack down it once was. Money can still be changed on
There are few top-end restaurants outside planet.com/travel_services. You can buy, harder on drug trafficking. Serious crime, the street should you so choose, and if you
of Algiers and the north. For further infor- extend and claim online anytime – even if such as murder, may attract punishment by ask around discreetly you’re sure to find
mation on food in Algeria, see p59. you’re already on the road. the death penalty. someone to help you out. Moneychangers
The photography of military or sensitive might also approach you in the street, par-
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS INTERNET ACCESS sites, including military or security person- ticularly near border crossings and you may
Homosexual sex is illegal for both men and Most travellers make constant use of inter- nel, may lead to arrest and detention. Also even be offered an exchange by your taxi
women in Algeria, and incurs a maximum net cafés and free web-based email such as remember that there are restrictions on tak- driver on the way in from the airport. How-
penalty of three years in jail and a stiff fine. Yahoo (www.yahoo.com) or Hotmail (www ing artefacts (such as stone tools) out of the ever, you should only change money on the
You’re unlikely to have any problems as a .hotmail.com). country – if you’re caught this can lead to a street when it’s absolutely necessary. While
tourist, but discretion is advisable. If you’re travelling with a notebook or fine or even time in prison. you’ll get a slightly better rate of exchange it
hand-held computer, be aware that your When driving in Algeria you’re bound to really isn’t worth the risk. You run the risk
HOLIDAYS modem may not work once you leave your come across police and military checkpoint of being ripped off or worse. Bear in mind
In Southern Algeria the main tourist season home country. The safest option is to buy a on major roads inside and on the outskirts that you’re officially supposed to show all
is from November to March, and the best reputable ‘global’ modem before you leave of Algiers and other large cities, as well as your transactions on your currency declara-
hotels and guesthouses are often full. On the home, or buy a local PC-card modem if on major highways. You should fully co- tion form. Although it’s rarely checked you
Mediterranean coast the busiest time of year you’re spending an extended time in any operate with and show relevant documen- don’t want to be caught out.
is the summer, from May to September, and one country. For more information on trav- tation to the security personnel at these
at this time hotel rooms are at a premium. elling with a portable computer, see www checkpoints. Cash
As well as the following national holi- .teleadapt.com. The best foreign currencies to carry are
days, Algeria also observes Islamic holidays Internet access is usually available in MAPS euros, followed by UK pounds. Some Al-
(see p201). major towns and tourist areas (with the It can be difficult to find accurate maps gerians, especially in rural areas, might give
Labour Day 1 May notable exceptions of Djanet and Timi- of Algeria’s cities and towns and most of prices in centimes rather than dinars (100
Revolutionary Readjustment (1965) 19 June moun) and connections are normally good. the time they’re nonexistent. If you need centimes equals DA1). To confuse matters
Independence Day 5 July It should cost between DA80 and DA150 a country map it’s a better idea to buy one further, they might also drop the thou-
National Day (Revolution Day) 1 November an hour to surf. Other than the large and before you go. The Michelin Map 741 Af- sands, so a quote of ‘130’ means 130,000
rica: North and West is an accurate and centimes, ie DA1300. You’ll need dinars
ISLAMIC HOLIDAYS
readable choice. Also worth a look is the for day-to-day expenses, although tourist-
Insight Travel Map, North Africa 2003. Gi- oriented businesses (hotels, airlines, tour
Holiday 2007 2008 2009 2010 zi’s Algeria map is slightly more detailed companies and even tourist shops) might
and also has names in Arabic. accept euros.
Ramadan begins 13 Sep 2 Sep 22 Aug 11 Aug
Eid al-Fitr 14 Oct 3 Oct 20 Sep 9 Sep MONEY Credit Cards
Tabaski 19 Dec 8 Dec 28 Nov 17 Nov The currency of Algeria is called the dinar. Credit-card facilities are not widespread in
Moulid an-Nabi 31 Mar 20 Mar 9 Mar 27 Feb Dinar banknotes are issued in the follow- Algeria. You’ll be able to use them to pay
New Year begins 21 Jan (1428) 10 Jan (1429) 31 Dec (1430) 20 Dec (1431) ing denominations: 100, 200, 500, and 1000 for some top-end hotels and restaurants,
Eid al-Adha 21 Dec 10 Dec 30 Nov 19 Nov dinars. See the Quick Reference section on some larger travel agencies, car-rental agen-
the inside cover for exchange rates and see cies and at some Air Algérie offices in major
DIREC TORY 204 D I R E C T O R Y • • P h o t o g r a p h y & V i d e o lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • S o l o T r a v e l l e r s 205
DIREC TORY
cities although a commission of around 5% photo if permission is denied. When taking Carpets are made all over Algeria, the existing on a diet of broken conversation
is usually charged for this. In Southern Al- photographs of rock paintings and carvings designs – traditional and geometric – vary can prove very frustrating. Algerians are
geria even the more expensive hotels and flash photography is forbidden. in colour and style from place to place and hospitable and you might well be invited
agencies don’t accept credit cards. The most The best times to take photographs in a lower quality one can be picked up for as for tea or dinner in somebody’s home. The
useful card is Visa, with MasterCard also Algeria, especially in the Sahara are in the little as €10. Good places to buy traditional down side is that it can be quite isolating –
accepted in a minority of places. It is pos- early morning, just after sunrise, and the carpets include Ghardaïa and the Souf there are not many independent travellers
sible to get cash advances from Visa and hour or so before sunset; the low sun will region. in Algeria, so it could be a good idea to
MasterCard credit cards in bank branches enhance the colours in your photographs. The Tipaza region is famous for its pot- sort out travelling companions before you
in major cities, although this can sometimes Filters (eg ultraviolet, polarising or ‘sky- tery, where you can get exquisitely deco- go. You’re unlikely to meet many people to
prove to be a long and drawn-out process. light’) can also help produce good results; rated bowls, plates and couscousiers. travel with or to share lifts with once you’re
Authorisation can take anything from half ask for advice in a good camera shop. When you’re in the desert look out for on the road.
an hour to half a day. For the most comprehensive guide to roses de sable – natural rock sculptures in It is possible for solo travellers to get
travel photography, get a copy of Lonely the shape of roses, exactly as they are found around on public transport, and bus serv-
Moneychangers Planet’s Travel Photography: A guide to in the sand. ices are relatively frequent, covering all the
The best place to change money is in one of Taking Better Pictures by internationally Even though it’s a Muslim country, Al- major destinations of interest. At the time
the national banks, although it is also pos- renowned photographer Richard I’Anson. geria is also a wine producer, continuing of writing, getting around on public trans-
sible at many of the upmarket hotels. Tour to maintain vineyards from the colonial port in the south could be problematic as
companies will sometimes change money POST era. All of these vineyards are located in you were required to have an invitation
for you and many tourist-oriented shops Post offices are widespread throughout the north and, in particular, produce some from a travel agency as well as a detailed
will let you pay in euros and then give you the country and are indicated by a yellow good-quality red wines. These can usually itinerary to account for your time, before
dinar as change. sign. The postal system is quite slow and be bought in specialised shops in the bigger being granted a visa. You can get around
it’s possible that you’ll arrive home be- towns, or in souvenir shops at the airport. this (for example, by joining a tour for a
Travellers Cheques fore your postcards do. A letter to Europe Unlike some other countries in the re- short time) and there have been reports of
Travellers cheques aren’t that much use in should cost DA30. Cards and letters to the gion, bargaining isn’t really done in most people travelling solo in the south on public
Algeria and many banks won’t exchange USA and Australia cost DA45. Postcards of Algeria and most shops have fixed prices. transport. However, if you’re leaving the
them, especially outside of the larger cities. are slightly cheaper. Many post offices also Offence can sometime be taken if you try to south via Tamanrasset or Djanet airports
In the south, facilities for changing trav- have branches of Western Union. haggle, too. Once you head further south, you’ll be asked which travel agency you’re
ellers cheques are practically unheard of to Ghardaïa, Djanet and Tamanrasset, with and will be in for some hassle if you
and even when you do find such facilities SHOPPING bargaining is more acceptable, although don’t have an answer.
your travellers cheques will be scrutinised You’ll find plenty of souvenirs of your trip, you’re unlikely to walk away with huge Women travelling solo in Algeria will
and discussed in great detail before they including fantastic jewellery; the traditional discounts. attract a lot of attention, as even the local
are approved. In order to change travel- Berber pieces are beautiful, especially those women don’t tend to travel on their own.
lers cheques you will need your original from the Kabylie region which are made SOLO TRAVELLERS You’re likely to receive a lot of curious
receipt. from different combinations of silver, col- Solo travel in southern Algeria can be ex- glances and it can be intimidating. Cafés
oured enamel, semiprecious stones and pensive. If driving through the south you and restaurants away from the big towns
PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO coral. You will also find plenty of mag- have to arrange to be met by a reputable of the north are generally all-male estab-
Print and slide film, batteries and a lim- nificent jewellery in the south – made by guide who will accompany you in your car, lishments and local men may pester you.
ited range of camera accessories, including Tuareg silversmiths, many of whom are which can costs anything from €80 a day See p207 for more information on women
memory sticks for digital cameras are avail- from Niger. You’ll find intricately carved and up, depending on the season. travellers.
able in major towns. Processing a roll of silver and agate pendants, strangely shaped Hardly any hotels have single rooms and
36 exposures costs around DA600. In most crosses – look for the famous ‘Croix although they’ll usually charge you a re- TELEPHONE
major towns it is also possible to transfer d’Agadez’ – heavy earrings and traditional duced rate to stay in a double the reduction Mobile phone usage has seen an explosion
digital images onto a CD, or to print out bangles. You could also pick up a tradi- is not often significant. The same goes for in Algeria and use is widespread. Mobile
photographs from a memory stick. What- tional Tuareg sword or a taguelmoust (Tu- organised tours. Unless you’ve organised phones are often the only way to get in
ever camera you bring, a dust-proof bag areg veil) to shield you from the elements. something in advance, most travel agents touch with people, as most Algerians do not
and a cleaning kit is essential. The sunlight Leather goods are of particularly good will not let you just join in on a group tour, have a land line.
in Algeria is very intense, so most people quality around Tlemcen, which produces so unless you can find someone to share the
find 100 ISO to be sufficient, with possibly leather belts, shoes, bags and poufs. In the costs you’ll end up having to arrange a very Mobile Phones
200 ISO or 400 ISO for long-lens shots, or Hoggar many Tuareg artisans specialise in expensive itinerary for yourself. Mobile phone numbers begin with x06
in the coastal regions of the north. leatherwear. You’ll see leather sandals in The upside is that you may get to inter- or x07. There are four main mobile net-
Do not take photographs of airports, bright shades of red and green, pouches, act more with locals. Speaking Arabic or works in Algeria: Djezzy, Mobilis, Ned-
ports, government buildings or anything Tuareg ‘wallets’ that you wear round your French will make a huge difference to your jma and Allo, out of which Djezzy has the
that looks as if it may be police or military neck to store your valuables, and you may travels in Algeria. If you are travelling inde- most comprehensive coverage. SIM cards
property. Always ask permission before tak- come across intricately decorated camel pendently, a grasp of at least the basics will are widely available from mobile phone
ing a photograph of people and don’t snap a saddles. help you communicate more effectively – shops, internet cafés or local stores, and
DIREC TORY 206 D I R E C T O R Y • • Ti m e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • W o m e n T r a v e l l e r s 207
DIREC TORY
cost around DA80. Calls cost from around ONAT has several helpful regional of- Visas cost €35 for one month and €100 big cities and the tourist trail, cafés and res-
DA13 to DA18 a minute for national calls fices including the following: for three months for Europeans. Visas taurants are the preserve of men and you’ll
and around DA5 to DA8 for the same net- Constantine (x/fax 031 642257; 16 rue Didouche- for citizens of the USA and Canada cost receive stares and sometimes outright hos-
work; it’s certainly cheaper than using your Mourad) around €50. Multiple-entry visas cost a few tility if you enter.
foreign phone here. Ghardaïa (Map p157; x029 881751; fax 029 884323; euros more. Transit visas are valid for seven Inventing a husband and wearing a wed-
1 blvd Emir-Abdelkader) days and you’ll have to prove you have adding band is always a good strategy and you
Phone Codes Oran (x041 393106, 041 393889; fax 041 390320; equate financial resources and a valid visa should also refer to boyfriends as husbands
The country code for Algeria is x213. 10bis, rue Emir-Abdelkader) for your country of destination. For visa to gain greater legitimacy for your relation-
To call out of Algeria dial x00 before the Tamanrasset (x029 334117; fax 029 344191; blvd extensions visit the Department des Etrangers ship as, unfortunately, many men in Algeria
country code. Emir-Abdelkader) (blvd Youssef 19A, Algiers). seem to be under the impression that if an
unmarried woman is travelling alone then
Phonecards TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES Visas for Onward Travel she’s ‘available’.
Post offices and general stores sell phone- Facilities for disabled travellers in Algeria Visas for the following countries are avail- It is essential to dress modestly. This is
cards. The most convenient way to phone are practically nonexistent. Only the most able from embassies in Algiers (see p200) the most successful strategy for minimising
abroad, however, is by Taxiphone. See expensive hotels have lifts, while streets are or consuls in Tamanrasset. attention. Tucking your hair under a hat or
below for further details. not always in great condition and ramps Mali One-month visas cost €10 or €15 for French citizens tying it back sometimes helps. Although on
and other things to ease access are nowhere and are usually issued in 24 hours. You’ll need two photos. the streets of Algiers you can get away with
Taxiphone to be seen. Bathroom access in most hotels Niger One-month visas are issued the same day, costing bare arms and tight jeans the rest of the
No, not the place to go to call a taxi, a taxi- in Algeria can be difficult and most long- €50. Three photos and three application forms are required. country is a different story. Upper arms,
phone is the best way to make a phone call distance public transport is not accessible legs, shoulders and cleavage should be cov-
abroad. Taxiphones are essentially small of- for wheelchairs. There are no tourist fa- WOMEN TRAVELLERS ered – you don’t want to call unnecessary
fices with a number of screened-off cabins cilities in Algeria aimed specifically at the While it’s not exactly dangerous to travel attention to yourself. It’s also a good idea to
where you make your call first and then pay blind or the deaf. as a woman on your own in Algeria, it can avoid eye contact with local men.
later. Expect a five-minute call to Europe to prove to be tiresome. It is not common to Avoid going out in the evening, par-
cost about DA300 and a similar call to the VISAS see women travelling on their own in many ticularly on foot, and avoid isolated areas,
USA to cost DA350. All visitors to Algeria except the nation- parts of the country and consequently you roadways and beaches. Hitching is not rec-
als of Libya, Malaysia, the Maldives, Mali, should prepare yourself for the amount of ommended. If staying in hotels alone it’s
TIME Mauritania, Morocco, the Seychelles, Syria, attention you’ll receive. In the more laid- worth paying a bit more money to stay in a
Algeria is one hour ahead of Greenwich Tunisia, Western Sahara and Yemen need a back towns of Tamanrasset or Djanet, for place that’s secure. It’s not unheard of for a
Mean Time (GMT). There is no daylight sav- visa to enter Algeria. All visas must be ar- example, it will just be curious stares from man to come knocking on your door in the
ing time. The 24-hour clock is usually used. ranged in advance at an Algerian embassy both men or women. In other places you’ll middle of the night once it’s clear you’re a
or consulate; you cannot get a visa on entry be subjected to a constant barrage of cat- foreign woman staying on your own.
TOILETS to the country. In general you should get calls and advances. Don’t let these concerns ruin your trip
Public facilities are not very common in Al- a visa before leaving your home country, Travel as a solo woman in Algeria can however. Most of the attention you’ll re-
geria. Facilities range from squat toilets to although if travelling up to Algeria through sometimes be intimidating. Outside of the ceive, while annoying, is rarely threatening.
Western-style toilets in the more upmarket West Africa, it might be possible to get a
hotels and restaurants. If you’re going to transit visa en route in Agadez, Niger. Visas
be travelling in more remote areas, carry are valid for either one month or three
some toilet paper for when you feel the call months from the date of entry, but it can
of nature. be difficult to obtain a three-month visa as
you’ll have to provide an itinerary and ac-
TOURIST INFORMATION count for all the time that you’ll be there.
The best place to find tourist information To get a visa you fill out two application
is the Office National Algérien du Tourisme (ONAT; forms, provide two photographs and, if vis-
x021 744448; www.onat-dz.com; 126 bus, rue Didouche- iting friends or relatives, a stamped certificat
Mourad, Algiers) – Algeria’s national tourist of- d’hebergement (certificate of lodging) signed
fice. Its services vary greatly according to its by your host in Algeria and authenticated by
location. Some can help out with local in- the local authorities in your host’s home-
formation, organise tours around the coun- town. Otherwise you’ll need a confirmed
try or assist you with a map or a daily guide. hotel booking or an invitation from a travel
Others seem to exist as booking agents for agency; for a visit to the south you’ll need
Algerians wanting to go elsewhere. The an invitation from a travel agency and a de-
Touring Club d’Algérie (x021 541313; www.algeria tailed itinerary for your stay. Travel agencies
touring.dz; 30 rue Hassene-Benâmane, Algiers) is also a arrange your invitation and can usually fax
useful source of information. the embassy a signed and stamped copy.
208 lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r 209
Transport CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel is the
fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as a global ben-
Passport efit, but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global warming.
Nationals of Israel are not allowed into the
CONTENTS country; if you have a stamp in your pass- Flying & climate change
port from here your application might be Pretty much every form of motorised travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced
Getting There & Away 208 rejected. For visa information, see p206. climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders, not just because of the sheer
Entering the Country 208 distances they allow us to travel, but because they release greenhouse gases high into the at-
Air 208 AIR mosphere. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and
Land 211 Airports & Airlines the USA will contribute as much to climate change as an average household’s gas and electricity
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
Sea 212 There are direct International flights from consumption over a whole year.
Tours 213 Europe to Algiers, Annaba, Bejaia, Con-
Getting Around 213 stantine, Djanet, Oran, Hassi Messaoud, Carbon offset schemes
Air 213 Tamanrasset and Tlemcen; as well as direct Climatecare.org and other websites use ‘carbon calculators’ that allow travellers to offset the
Bus 214 flights from West Africa and the Middle level of greenhouse gases they are responsible for with financial contributions to sustainable
Car & Motorcycle 214 East to Algiers. There are no direct flights travel schemes that reduce global warming – including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan
Hitching 216 to Algeria from North or South America, and Uganda.
Local Transport 216 Asia or Australasia. Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel in-
Shared Taxi 216 Air Algérie is the national carrier and, at dustry, support the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its
Tours 217 the time of writing, the only airline offering staff and author travel.
Train 217 internal flights to tourists. Air France, Aigle For more information check out our website: www.lonelyplanet.com.
Azur and British Airways are the main air-
lines linking Algeria with Europe.
Air Algérie has a fairly decent safety Libyan Arab Airlines (LN; x21 72 51 39; www.libyan Africa
GETTING THERE & record. Its only fatal air crash was in March
2003, 102 people were killed when a plane
arabairline.com)
Lufthansa (LH;x583 8426; www.lufthansa.com)
Algeria is well connected with North and
West Africa, and there are regular direct
AWAY lost control shortly after taking off in Taman-
rasset. Additionally, a group of unarmed
Qatar Airways (QR; x21 67 99 99; www.qatarairways
.com)
flights from Libya, Morocco and Egypt to
Algiers. Air Algérie flies direct to Niamey
Algeria is easily reached by air or sea from men tried to hijack a domestic Air Algérie Royal Air Maroc (AT; x21 74 45 20/21; www.royal (Niger), Ouagadougou (Burkino Faso), Abid-
Continental Europe and the UK and there flight in January 2003. airmaroc.com) jan (Côte d’Ivoire), Bamako (Mali), Dakar
are also frequent flights to and from the The following airlines fly to/from Saudi Arabian Airlines (SV; x21 68 22 74; www (Senegal) and Nouakchot (Mauritania).
Middle East, North and West Africa. From Algeria: .saudiairlines.com) There are Air Algérie offices in Mali (x233
all other areas you’ll have to change in Eu- Aigle Azur (ZI; x21 64 14 52; www.aigle-azur.fr) Syn-Air (RB; x21 73 01 02; www.syn-air.com) 223159; av Modibo Keita, Bamako), Egypt (x202 5740 688;
rope. Flights, tours and rail tickets can be Air Algérie (AH; x21 65 33 40; www.airAlgérie.dz) Syrian Air (RB; x21 73 01 02; www.syriaair.com) El-Nasr Bldg, El-Nil St, Cairo), Morocco (x212 222 5681; 1,
booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com Air France (AF; x21 98 04 04; www.airfrance.com) Turkish Airlines (TK; x21 44 68 66; www.thy.com) rue Elamraoui Brahim, Casablanca), Senegal (x221 823
/travel_services. Alitalia (AZ; x21 72 73 56; www.alitalia.com) 55 48; 2 place de l’Independence, Dakar), Niger (x227
British Airways (BA; x21 67 09 18; www.ba.com) Tickets 7338 98; Arcades Rivoli, Niamey), Mauritania (x222 525
ENTERING THE COUNTRY Egypt Air (MS; x21 63 39 74; www.egyptair.com) Since there is so little competition, there are 2059; av Gamel Abdelnasser, Nouakchot) and Burkina Faso
Getting into Algeria is fairly straightforward JetAir (x1293 566000; www.jetair.co.uk) few specials for travel to Algeria. Air Algérie (x312 102; 398 av Kwame Nkrumah, Ouagadougou). Buy-
and immigration officials tend to just check and Air France have daily direct flights from ing cheap tickets in West and North Africa
your visa before letting you go on your way. Paris, and British Airways flies to Algiers isn’t easy. Usually the best deal you can get is
You will have to fill in a landing card be- THINGS CHANGE… direct every day except Thursday. Booking the airline’s official excursion fare.
fore entering, but this is pretty simple and The information in this chapter is particu- online is usually possible and good online Flights from East Africa tend to go via the
it’s printed in Arabic, French and English. larly vulnerable to change. Check directly agencies include Opodo (www.opodo.co.uk) and Middle East, eg from Nairobi to Istanbul to
You also need to fill in a customs declaration with the airline or a travel agent to make Expedia (www.expedia.com). The best deals to Al- Algiers. Flying from Southern Africa the best
form (p199) stating how much currency and sure you understand how a fare (and any geria are from France; Aigle Azur (x33 (0) 810 way to get to Algeria is to fly via Egypt.
valuables you are bringing into the country. ticket you may buy) works and be aware of 797 997; www.aigle-azur.fr) has regular flights to a
This is supposed to be stamped on entry, and the security requirements for international number of the more popular tourist destina- Australia & New Zealand
may or may not be checked by customs on travel. Shop carefully. The details given in tions in Algeria. Point Afrique (www.point-afrique Again, there are no direct flights from Aus-
your way in. Visas are not issued on arrival this chapter should be regarded as point- .com) arranges charter flights to Algeria from tralia or New Zealand to Algeria. The best
and you must arrange a visa in advance be- ers and are not a substitute for your own Paris and Marseilles, and if you’re going to way to get there is via London on British
fore entering the country. See p206 for more careful, up-to-date research. Tamanrasset or Djanet it’s a better option Airways or Paris with Air France. A return
information about visa requirements. than changing planes in Algiers. ticket from Sydney to Algiers via London
210 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d 211
or Paris should cost around A$1800 and and several flights a week between Paris Algiers. In addition, Air Algérie flies once a Pan Express Travel (x212 719-9292; www.panex
should take about 30 hours. Or you could and the international airports at Annaba, week to Amman (Jordan), twice a week to presstravel.com) Also worth trying.
fly with Egypt Air via Cairo, from where Constantine, Oran, Batna and Tlemcen. Jeddah (Saudi Arabia), Damascus (Syria)
there are onward connections to Algiers. In addition there are direct weekly flights and Beirut (Lebanon), and three times a Recommended Canadian travel agencies
Both STA Travel (x1300 733 035; www.statravel from Bordeaux, Lille, Lyon, Marseille, Tou- week to Dubai (United Arab Emirates) and include the following:
.com.au) and Flight Centre (x133 133; www.flightcen louse, Nancy and Nice to Algiers. Istanbul (Turkey). Travel CUTs (x800-667 2887; www.travelcuts.com) is
tre.com.au) have offices throughout Australia. You can fly from Lyon to Annaba, Con- Canada’s national student travel agency and has offices in
For online bookings try www.travel.com.au. stantine and Oran; from Marseille to Batna, UK & Ireland all major cities.
In New Zealand both Flight Centre (x0800 Constantine and Oran; and from Toulouse British Airways flies direct from London Flight Centre (x1877 967 5302; www.flightcentre.ca)
243 544; www.flightcentre.co.nz) and STA Travel to Oran. For other destinations in Algeria every day except Thursday. Prices start Has offices all over Canada.
(x0508 782872; www.statravel.co.nz) have branches you’ll need to connect in Algiers. from around UK£300 return to Algiers.
throughout the country. The site www.travel Aigle Azur specialises in flights between Twice a week British Airways flies direct In addition to the internet, good places to
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
.co.nz is recommended for online bookings. France and North Africa and has a variety to Hassi Messaoud from London Gatwick search include travel magazines. The week-
of different flights from French cities to for around UK£400 return. JetAir, a private end editions of major newspapers are also
Continental Europe Algeria. For example, from Paris you can charter airline, has return scheduled flights useful. You could try the New York Times
Lufthansa, Alitalia and Air France all have get to Algiers, Annaba, Batna, Constantine, to Hassi Messaoud three times a week. on the east coast, the Los Angeles Times or
daily connections from their respective Djanet, Hassi Messaoud, Oran, Tamanrasset From Ireland the quickest way to get to San Francisco Examiner-Chronicle on the
countries to Algiers, and Air Algérie also and Tlemcen. Flights to Algiers also depart Algeria is to fly from Dublin with British west coast, and in Canada the Toronto Star,
has good connections with Continental from Lille, Lyon and Toulouse. From Mar- Airways via London. It’s also worth check- Vancouver Sun or Globe & Mail.
Europe. From Spain there are Air Algérie seilles you can get to Annaba, Constantine, ing the weekend travel ads in newspapers
flights three times a week from Barcelona to Oran and Tlemcen. The airports at Lyon and travel magazines or in Time Out. Dur- LAND
Algiers, twice a week from Madrid to Al- and Toulouse also have flights to Oran. ing popular periods such as peak tourist Algeria has land borders with Tunisia, Libya,
giers, and two a week from Alicante to Oran. Point Afrique is an excellent company seasons or at the end of Ramadan, prices Niger, Mali, Mauritania and Morocco. At
From Italy there are three flights a week that organises tours and flights to countries may rise by another UK£100 or so on the time of writing many of Algeria’s bor-
from Rome to Algiers. From Switzerland around North and West Africa. It flies from scheduled airlines. ders were closed to tourists and the only
there are two flights a week from Geneva to Paris and Marseille to Djanet and Tama- The following travel agents are a good possible crossings were at Taleb Larbi and
Algiers and one a week from Basel to Con- nrasset, the advantage being that for the place to start to look for deals. Souq Ahras with Tunisia, In Guezzam with
stantine. Air Algérie also flies twice a week same price as a straight return you can mix Africa Travel Centre (x0845 450 1520; www.travel Niger and Deb Deb with Libya. On arriving
from Frankfurt and Brussels, and once a and match – you could fly from Paris to africa.co.uk; 21 Leigh St London WC1H 9EW) at the border you will normally fill out an
week from Moscow. From other European Djanet and then return from Tamanrasset, North South Travel (x01245 608291; www.north immigration card and a currency declara-
countries the best bet is to connect in Paris. or even from another country in the region. southtravel.co.uk; Moulsham Mill Centre, Parkway, tion form and get a passport stamp. If you’re
Return fares from Continental Europe One-way fares to southern Algeria start Chelmsford CM2 7PX) Excellent small travel agency whose driving you’ll also fill out a registration form
range from between €300 and €500. from around €300. profits are put into development projects in Africa, Asia for your vehicle and buy motor insurance.
The following are a list of recommended However, bear in mind that because it and Latin America. With any of the following overland routes,
travel agencies: operates lowly charter flights, Point Afrique STA Travel (x020-7361 6142/7581/4132; www.sta you’ll need a thorough update on the secu-
Air Fair (x020 620 5121; www.airfair.nl in Dutch) Well- is further down the pecking order when it travel.co.uk) Has offices throughout the country. rity situation before setting off. Anybody
respected Dutch travel agent. comes to airport berths, which means that it Trailfinders (x020-7938 3939; www.trailfinders.co.uk) planning Saharan travel should check out
Barcelo Viajes (x902 116 226; www.barceloviajes is sometimes unable to confirm your exact Has offices all over the UK. the excellent website www.sahara-overland
.com; Spain) flight details until not long before your de- .com put together by Chris Scott.
Connections (x02-550 01 00; www.connections.be; parture. Also bear in mind that airport tax USA & Canada
Belgium) Has offices throughout the country. is not included in the flight price. This is Currently there are no direct flights from Libya
CTS Viaggi (x06 462 0431; www.cts.it; Italy) normally an additional €65. the USA or Canada to Algeria, but a new There are two main overland routes you
Expedia (www.expedia.de; Germany) Recommended booking agencies in service is being planned from Montreal to can take from Algeria to Libya: from Djanet
STA Travel (x01805 456 422; www.statravel.de; France include the following: Algiers on Air Algerie from June 2007. The on the Algerian side to Ghat on the Libyan
Germany) Nouvelles Frontiéres (x0825 000 747; www.nouv best way to get there would be to take a flight side, or from Deb Deb on the Algerian side
TUI (x0848 121 221; www.tui.ch; Switzerland) elles-frontieres.fr) to London or Paris and change there. From to Ghadames in Libya. At the time of writ-
OTU Voyages (x0825 004 027;www.out.fr) Has New York this would take about 14 hours. ing it was not possible to cross into Libya
For a return flight from Berlin to Algiers branches across France. The full economy fare from New York to via Ghat. However, if the border reopens
prices start at around €400; from Rome Voyageurs du Monde (x0892 688 363; www.vdm.com) Algiers is about US$1000. The economy fare anytime soon, shared taxis leave from Djan-
prices start at around €350. from Toronto to Algiers is about C$1500. et’s main street to the border at the crack of
Middle East The following are recommended travel dawn every day. At the time of research it
France There are good connections between Alge- agencies in the USA. was possible to cross into Libya from Deb
Air France has daily flights to Algiers from ria and the Middle East, and the national STA Travel (x800-777 0112; www.statravel.com) Deb to Ghadames.
€300 return. Air Algérie operates daily airlines of Libya, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Syria Has offices in many major US cities; call the toll-free 800 An invitation from a tour operator is nec-
scheduled flights between Paris and Algiers, and Turkey all have regular direct flights to number for office locations or visit its website. essary to obtain a visa for Libya and at the
212 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • S e a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r 213
time of writing it was compulsory to travel It is not recommended that you use pub- The following table has information on cultural tours to the S’biba festival in Djanet and a ‘spiritual
with a guide if driving in the south. It is lic transport to cross the border into Niger. ferry services from Marseille. trek’ following in the footsteps of Charles de Foucauld.
not possible to cross the border using public However, should the situation improve, Les Matins du Monde (x4 37 24 90 30; www.les
transport. If driving you’ll need to get your getting to In Guezzam from Tamanrasset Destination Frequency Duration matinsdumonde.com) Offers hikes, camel treks and 4WD
passport stamped, rent number plates and is reasonably straightforward. There are (weekly) (hours) treks in the Sahara, as well as more specialised tours such
buy a Libyan carnet and motor insurance. 4WD taxis that leave on a daily basis and as rock-climbing.
it’ll cost you DA1500 for a seat. There’s not Algiers 3 22 Point Afrique (x4 75 97 20 40; www.point-afrique
Mali much point doing this though as you’ll then Annaba 1-2 20 .com) This company doesn’t just do flights, it also organises
The Malian border crossing is on the Route have to find a ride to the border post and Bejaia 1 21 personally tailored and group tours. As well as tours in
de Tanezrouft, running through Algeria then onwards to the Nigerian border post Oran 3 25 the Sahara it has have treks in the Kabylie Mountains and
and Mali, via Adrar and the border at at Assamaka and from there to Arlit. From Skikda 2 22 discovery tours of Northern Algeria’s ancient Roman sites.
Bordj–Mokhtar, ending in Gao. The se- Arlit south, things are very straightforward Terres d’Aventure (x825 847 800; www.terdav
Spain
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
curity situation in northern Mali has been though and buses run south to Agadez, .com) Has 10 different desert tours including three family-
unstable for some time, meaning that the Zinder, and Niamey. If there’s a group of Basic adult fares cost from €180 one way friendly trips in Algeria for kids as young as six.
Tanzerouft trans-Saharan route has been you its possible to hire a 4WD taxi in Taman- and €206 return, plus an extra €70 extra for Via Nostra (www.vianostra.fr) Offers cultural tours to
effectively closed to travellers. The situa- rasset to take you all the way to Arlit for a cabin. Bringing a car costs from €100 one Northern Algeria.
tion has improved somewhat recently, but around DA40,000. way. It costs from €63 one way to bring a
the route is still considered dangerous and motorcycle and €15 one way for a bike. UK & Ireland
cannot be recommended. If you must un- Tunisia From Alicante to Algiers there are two Explore Worldwide (x0870 333 4001; www.explore
dertake this route, you’ll need to be accom- Most overland travellers enter Algeria via crossings (13 hours) a week. There is a .co.uk) Has recently launched a small group tour to Algeria,
panied to the border by an Algerian guide Tunisia. Take the ferry from Tunis and weekly crossing (13 to 15 hours) from Ali- travelling by 4WD, minibus and plane, which takes in
from a reputable tour company. then go overland from Nefta in Tunisia to cante to Oran. Algiers, Tipaza, Ghardaïa, the Tassili N’Ajjer and the Hoggar
To get to Mali overland from Algeria El-Oued in Algeria via the border at Taleb Mountains.
your best bet is to go via Niger, crossing Larbi. If coming by public transport, you can TOURS Sahara Travel (x1 496 8844; www.saharatravel.co
the border at Labbénganza, southeast of get a shared taxi from Nefta to the border Because of the current security situation .uk) An Ireland-based company that offers 4WD trips in
Gao. You can pick up a visa for Mali in post at Hazoua. It’s a few kilometres between and the relative difficulty for independ- the Algerian Sahara, including self-drive 4WD expeditions
Tamanrasset, but it is also possible to pick the Tunisian and Algeria border posts, but ent travellers, most people go to Algeria where you will be accompanied by a tour leader but drive
one up at the border for CFA15,000. you should be able to get a lift across. After on organised tours. Most of these tours your own 4WD. Includes channel crossing and ferry cross-
completing formalities at the Algerian side, are inclusive and cover your international ing from Marseille.
Mauritania there are shared taxis that go on to El-Oued. flight, transport around the country, food,
Crossing from Algeria into Mauritania is You can sometimes change money at the accommodation and guide etc. Most tours USA & Canada
currently not advised due to safety con- border, if not you’ll be able to at Debila, the to Algeria concentrate on the Sahara; the Adventures Abroad (x1-800 665 3998; www.ad
cerns in that corner of the country. first main town after the border. bulk of them in the desert regions around ventures-abroad.com) Has 12-day small-group tours taking
The other main border point with Tuni- Tamanrasset and Djanet and some to the in the ancient sites of the north as well as Tassili N’Ajjer
Morocco sia is between Souq Ahras on the Algerian Grand Ergs and the M’Zab. Tours are usu- National Park.
All borders between Morocco and Algeria side and Ghardimao in Tunisia. On both ally conducted in small groups of around Lost Frontiers (x888 508-2454; www.lostfrontiers
were closed at the time of writing. sides the journey can usually be made by eight to 15 people and will either travel by .com) California-based company offering a three-week tour
taxis collectifs (shared taxis), or there are 4WD, trekking on foot with pack animals, to the Tassili N’Ajjer and the Hoggar Mountains.
Niger direct air-conditioned buses between Tunis or on camels; sometimes it’s a combination Journeys International (x800 255 8735; www
The only viable border post between the and Annaba or Constantine. of all these things. Overland tours used to .journeys-intl.com) Offers a North Africa tour that takes in
two countries at the time of writing was be- cross through the Algerian Sahara on trans- the northern regions of Algeria.
tween In Guezzam (Algeria) and Assamm- SEA Africa expeditions, but since the troubles
aka (Niger), a bit more than 400km south Algérie Ferries (x021 424650; www.algerieferries of the 1990s they have stayed away. Several
of Tamanrasset. If driving you will need an
Algerian guide to accompany you to the
.com) and the French company SNCM (x33
825 88 80 88; www.sncm.fr) operate regular ferry
companies are listed below, but the list is
not exhaustive. For tour companies based
GETTING AROUND
border (or pick you up), as it is currently services between Marseille in France and inside the country, see p217. AIR
illegal for tourists to drive cars unaccom- Oran, Algiers, Bejaia, Skikda and Annaba Because of the huge distances involved in
panied in the Algerian Sahara. in Algeria; and between Alicante in Spain Continental Europe travelling in Algeria, flying can be a good
Formalities are carried out at the Algerian and Algiers and Oran. Hommes et Montagnes (x4 3886 6919; www.hom way to get around and there’s an excellent
border post from where it’s another 18km or mes-et-montagnes.fr) Well-established and extremely network of regional airports. For the more
so to the Nigerian authorities at Assamaka. France professional, this company provides a huge range of trek- popular and less frequent routes, such as
To enter this region of Niger you’ll need a Basic fares cost from around €280 per adult king options from eight to 22 days. Tours are rated from Tamanrasset or Djanet to Algiers, it pays
licensed guide and a feuille de route (offi- one way and €330 return plus an extra €120 easy to difficult. to book well in advance (if you can!). When
cial itinerary), which you’ll need to arrange for a cabin. Cars costs from €110 one way; La Route du Sahara (www.laroutedusahara.com) Pro- you’ve walked through customs to board an
through a Nigerian travel agency. motorbikes from €78. vides a variety of trekking options in the Sahara as well as internal flight, you’ll notice that all of the
214 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B u s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • C a r & M o t o r c y c l e 215
passengers’ baggage is lying on the tarmac. sive than the national SNTV buses, but are Bring Your Own Vehicle Hire
You have to identify your bag to the ground generally more comfortable, modern and Anyone planning to bring their vehicle with There are numerous car-hire offices in the
staff before they put it on the plane. If you air-conditioned. Most long-distance serv- them to Algeria needs to check in advance major airports in the north and in town
don’t, it’ll get left behind. ices leave either very early in the morning what spare parts and petrol are likely to centres. They will ask for a piece of identit-
or at night to escape travelling in the peak be available. When bringing your car into fication, an IDL and a deposit; check your
Airlines in Algeria heat. Make sure to arrive at the gare routière the country, you’ll need vehicle registra- contract carefully to see what is included
Air Algérie (x021 653340; www.airalgere.dz) is the bus station at least half an hour before the tion documents and it’s essential that the in the insurance; you have to be 24 or over
national carrier of Algeria and the only air- departure time. It’s also a good idea to make details on this document must match those to hire a car in Algeria and have to have
line currently offering internal flights after reservations in advance for more popular on your vehicle. Unlike some of the neigh- had a licence for at least two years, but this
Khalifa Airways folded in 2003. There are a or long-distance journeys. bouring countries, you don’t need a carnet varies according to the agent. In the south
couple of smaller airlines in operation such Buses are a reasonably priced way of get- to drive your car into Algeria. Instead you’ll you will have to hire a car with a driver, and
as JetAir Sahara but these mainly serve as ting around. For example, a journey from be issued with a passage de conduire (driv- most travel agencies mentioned in this guide
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
charter airlines for workers in the oil and Algiers to Ghardaïa costs DA650, and a ing licence) by customs and you’ll also have provide such a service. A 4WD with driver
gas industries. journey from Ghardaïa to Tamanrasset to fill out police and customs declarations should cost from €100 to €150 a day depend-
Distances are long in Algeria and if trav- costs DA1500. forms. European Green Card insurance is ing on the season.
elling independently you’ll probably use not recognised so you’ll have to buy car Love Tour Algiers (x021 637111); Hassi Messaoud
internal flights at some point. Although CAR & MOTORCYCLE insurance at the border, normally around (x029 754994); Oran (x41 394136); Tlemcen (x43
it’s quicker to get around by air, tickets are The major route across the Algerian Sahara DA5000 for 30 days for a car and DA2000 2246521; www.lovetouralgerie.com); . You must be 30 and
expensive and Air Algérie’s customer serv- is the Route du Hoggar, which goes from for a motorcycle. over to rent a car from these guys. Cars cost from DA2500
ice can be ridiculously inefficient. In theory Ghardaïa to Tamanrasset, and then on to In If coming from Europe, there are a a day.
it’s possible to book internal flights before Guezzam and the Niger frontier. The road number of ferry crossings from Marseille in Magi Car (x021 549393; www.magi-car.com) Has two
arriving in the country through the website is tar all the way to Tamanrasset, although France and Alicante in Spain to several desti- offices in Algiers and one at the airport. From DA2900 a
or international Air Algerié offices, but this it’s patchy after In Salah. Other less-used nations in Algeria. A one-way crossing for a day for the most basic car, usually a Peugeot 206. A car
can be a nightmare. The schedules are often routes include the Route du Tanezrouft, car costs from €386 (including an adult fare). with driver costs from DA6500 a day.
incorrect and many flights unbookable. It which runs from Adrar to Borj Mokhtar Alternatively, you could come via Tunisia, Rapide Car Algiers international airport (x021 509512;
is often the case that a flight will appear near the Malian border and includes sec- driving overland to the crossing at Nefta. www.rapidecar.com); Bejaïa (x034 201048) Rental costs
on the website or timetable but cannot be tions of piste. from DA3300 a day and you must be over the age of 26.
booked as seats have not been released yet; There is no longer a need to drive in Driving Licence
sometimes they are not released until a few convoy in Southern Algeria; however, at You’ll need an International Driving Per- Insurance
days before the flight. the time of writing all independent travel- mit (IDP) as well as your home licence if Fully comprehensive insurance for Algeria
On the ground there are often delays, lers in the south needed to be accompanied you wish to drive your own car or hire a car is strongly advised, given the number of
cancellations or time changes with little by a guide. The guide will meet you at the in Algeria. IDPs are easy and cheap to get in road accidents that occur here. Make sure
warning. At local Air Algérie offices you border and either join you in your own car your home country and are normally issued you’re covered for off-piste travel and if
will almost certainly have to pay in cash, or, if you are in a motorcycle or bicycle, by major motoring associations, such as the you’re planning any cross-border travel,
but this can usually be done in euros as will follow you in their own car. A guide AA in Britain. that you’re fully insured to do so. In the
well as dinars. in your car costs from around €80 a day event of an accident make sure you give
and must be arranged in advance. Tourist Fuel & Spare Parts your insurance company the accident re-
BUS offices in Tamamrasset and Djanet can take Petrol is relatively cheap in Algeria. At the port as soon as possible.
Intercity buses are run by the national com- care of this. time of writing petrol cost about DA20 per Third party insurance can be bought at
pany SNTV, sometimes known in the south Algerians aren’t exactly known for their litre and diesel cost DA14 per litre. Avail- the border from around €50 a month. Green
as TVSE. It serves all major tourist destina- careful driving skills; basic road rules are ability of petrol is normally good, with even Card insurance is not valid in Algeria.
tions in Algeria. Bus trips are reasonably rarely respected and the number of fatal road the smaller towns having at least one petrol
priced, but vary greatly in comfort level, accidents rises year after year. You’ll find pump. In the south the situation is a little Road Conditions
from old, slow, hot dinosaurs to more mod- plenty of police and army roadblocks on the different, and with the long distances be- Road conditions in Algeria are generally
ern air-conditioned vehicles. Buses also road, especially in the south. Slow down on tween towns you should bear in mind that good and most major highways have smooth
vary in size and are either full-size buses or approach and wait to be waved through. If there can be distances of several hundred sealed roads. Notable exceptions are the
30-seater minibuses. you are stopped you’ll be asked for papers, kilometres between fuel stops. At the time stretch between In Salah and In Guezzam,
SNTV covers most major destinations passport, visa and perhaps other personal of writing there were also reports of fuel which is patchy, and from Reggane to the
in Algeria going as far south as Taman- details, such as your home address and the shortages in In Guezzam. Malian border at Bordj Mokhtar. Driving
rasset, although it is less widespread in the duration of your stay. This can sometimes be Spare parts will usually be available in all off piste is a whole other matter. See p76 for
south; Djanet, for example is only served by a lengthy process but be cooperative. major towns. However, if you have a very details on driving in the Sahara.
shared taxis. There are also a number of pri- For further information about driving in recent model it could be a good idea to
vate companies that usually operate from the Sahara, see p76. It’s also worth consult- bring your own spare parts or check with Road Hazards
and have small offices in the main city bus ing the excellent Sahara Overland by Chris your manufacturer for a list of accredited Some of the biggest road hazards in Algeria
terminals. These tend to be more expen- Scott. parts suppliers. are careless drivers – the rules of the road
216 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • H i t c h i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • T o u r s 217
aren’t respected here so always be on your in the sand, and possibly a contribution only down side being that there’s not as M’Zab Tours (x029 880002; [email protected];
guard. Avoid driving at night – the roads towards fuel – but don’t count on it. much space for luggage. Shared taxis plough av du 1er Novembre, Ghardaïa) An excellent and well-
are not well lit, and the highways aren’t lit all the main routes in Algeria, from Algiers organised agency, it offers individually tailored tours
at all. Many cars drive on the road at night LOCAL TRANSPORT right down to Tamanrasset. They leave on around the M’Zab Valley and the Grand Ergs. It has a sister
without lights, and in rural areas animals Bus a fill-up-and-go basis so you’ll have to be agency in Tamanrassset.
wander onto the roads. Local buses are large, old and can be unreli- at the station very early in the morning to Timbeur Voyages (x029475270; www.voyages-tim
In the desert keep an eye out for camels, able but they’re reasonably priced and in the get the best chance of catching a ride. They beur.com; Djanet) This is one of Djanet’s most established
which are sometimes camouflaged against larger cities 10-journey carnets and daily, usually take up to six passengers with bags. agencies. It has offices next to the market and offers short
the sand. After sandstorms watch out for weekly or longer duration passes are avail- They are a little more expensive than buses expeditions, such as trips to Erg Admer and Tagharghart to
build-up on the road, especially at night; able. If you’re only around for a short time, but the journeys are more comfortable and La Vache Qui Pleure, as well as one-day trips to Jabbaren.
sometimes entire sections of the road can it’s often faster to use the minibuses that go you’re more likely to strike up a conversa- Zenata Voyages (x041 391227; 24 rue de Tripoli,
be engulfed with sand. For more specific around the major towns, such as Algiers and tion with your fellow travellers. Oran) Offers a number of trips based around the culture
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
advice on desert hazards, see p76. Oran, and work on a fill-up-and-go basis. From Tamanrasset to the border with and history of Oran and Tlemcen, as well as wine-tasting
Niger and from Adrar to Reggane the trips. It also organises hotel reservations and car hire.
Road Rules Metro routes are covered by 4WD taxis, which
Algerians drive on the right-hand side of An underground system has been planned cost a little more. TRAIN
the road. If a car is fitted with seatbelts, they for many years in Algiers and construc- Algerian railways are run by the Société Na-
must be worn, even for passengers sitting tion recently began. The first section of the TOURS tionale des Transports Ferroviaires (SNTF; x021
in the back. The use of mobile telephones metro is due to be completed in 2008. Algeria’s many tour operators offer 4WD 711510; www.sntf.dz). The train network con-
while driving is forbidden. circuits, camel treks, hiking tours, wine- sists of some 4500km of tracks in the north
Because help can take so long to arrive, Taxi tasting trips and cultural and historic tours. of the country and hasn’t changed much
Algerians generally try to flag down another Taxis are plentiful in most cities and major Following is a list of some reliable compa- since colonial times. The tracks go as far as
car in the event of a breakdown, and there is towns, though they’re busy during the early nies based around the country. For details Touggourt in the southeast of the country
a lot of camaraderie on the roads. evening as many people use them to return about foreign travel agencies, see p213. and Béchar in the southwest. At the time
home after work and the practice of shar- Club d’Aventure Africaine (x021 697922; www of writing the only trains going as far as
HITCHING ing a taxi is widespread. If your taxi doesn’t .caa-dz.com; 7 rue des Fréres Oughlis, Algiers) Offers tours Touggourt or Béchar were goods trains, but
Hitching is never entirely safe in any coun- have a meter agree on a price before setting to the Sahara. lines were set to resume to Béchar in late
try and we don’t recommend it. People who off. Short journeys within town should cost Immidir Voyages (x029344468/2484; www.immidir 2007 or early 2008. The Algerian govern-
do choose to hitch will be safer if they do it around DA50. -voyages.com; Tamanrasset) Excellent and established ment has also launched a scheme to mod-
in pairs and let someone know where they agency providing 4WD treks and tours around the Tam ernise the tracks and trains and to extend
are planning to go. SHARED TAXI region, with particularly interesting tours into the Immidir its southeastern lines all the way to Hassi
The Sahara has long been a popular re- Called taxis collectifs, louanges or taxis region. The owner is particularly enthusiastic and inter- Messaoud.
gion for adventurers in their own vehicles, brousse, these are normally yellow Peu- ested in this area of the country. Trains go from Algiers to Annaba, Con-
so backpackers have traditionally hitched geots and are a good way of getting around Mer de Sable (x049 902595; www.agence-merdesa stantine, Bejaia, Oran and Skikda. Many of
rides. At the time of writing there were the country. They usually leave from (or ble.com; rue Abd el-Kader Ziadi, Timimoun) Has excellent the trains are quite old and slow but they are
very few tourists driving though Algeria so near to) the town’s main bus station or, in trips in camel caravans, as well as 4WD tours throughout reasonably reliable. There are 1st- and 2nd-
chances of picking up a lift were slim. If smaller towns, from the local bus/taxi ranks the region. class compartments, family cars, couchettes
you’re very lucky you might meet a loner or the main town square. Misserghin Tours (x041 458075; www.misserghin for overnight journeys and air-conditioning
who’s happy to offer a spare seat in return They tend to be faster then the buses, as -tours.com; 9 ave de Sidi Chami, Oran) Organises visits to on long journeys. Prices for train travel in
for help digging when the car gets stuck they don’t have to make so many stops; the villages around Oran and Tlemcen, themed tours such as Algeria are very reasonable. For example,
Oran under the Ottoman Empire and sporting activities a 1st-class ticket on the overnight sleeper
such as hunting and fishing. from Algiers to Annaba costs DA1650.
LES TAXIEURS Zahia Hafs
‘Taxieur’ is the common expression for a taxi driver. The people in Algiers point out that it takes
less time to say ‘taxieur’ than ‘chauffeur de taxi’ (taxi driver).
Getting a cab in the city is quite easy and very cheap. Some are yellow cabs while others
look more like ordinary cars, but with taxi a sign on top. The taxieur usually has a meter but it
will not always be on, and the driver will most likely say that it does not work (as is the case in
many parts of the world). You can insist, but meters rarely work, and if you are in a hurry you
must negotiate a price before heading off to your destination.
At rush hour, which is basically all day long, don’t be surprised if a taxieur picks up other
passengers. It is perfectly normal and you will often find that it is actually a good way to meet
people. They love to know where you come from and what you think of Algeria. The likelihood
is that you will end up chatting and joking with everybody in the car.
218 lonelyplanet.com B E F O R E Y O U G O • • R e c o m m e n d e d Va c c i n a t i o n s 219
It’s vital to ensure that your travel insur- bandages, gauze, gauze rolls
Health ance will cover the emergency transport

required to get you to a hospital in a major
city, to better medical facilities elsewhere
DEET-containing insect repellent for use
on the skin
iodine tablets (for water purification)
optical prescription with you); get a first- beyond Algeria, or all the way home, by air oral rehydration salts
aid and medical kit together; and arrange and with a medical attendant if necessary. permethrin-containing insect spray for
CONTENTS necessary vaccinations. Not all insurance covers this, so check the clothing, tents, and bed nets
It’s tempting to leave it all to the last contract carefully. If you need medical help, pocket knife
Before You Go 218 minute – don’t! Many vaccines don’t take your insurance company might be able to scissors, safety pins, tweezers
Insurance 218 effect until two weeks after you’ve been help locate the nearest hospital or clinic, or sterile needles, syringes and fluids if trav-
Recommended Vaccinations 219 immunised, so visit a doctor four to eight you can ask at your hotel. In an emergency elling to remote areas
Medical Checklist 219 weeks before departure. Ask your doctor contact your embassy or consulate. steroid cream or hydrocortisone cream
Internet Resources 219 for an International Certificate of Vaccina- (for allergic rashes)
Further Reading 219 tion (otherwise known as the yellow book- RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS sunblock
In Transit 220 let), which will list all the vaccinations The World Health Organization (WHO; www.who syringes and sterile needles
Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) 220 you’ve received. This is mandatory for the .int/en/) recommends all travellers be covered thermometer
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 220 African countries that require proof of yel- for diphtheria, tetanus, measles, mumps,
In Algeria 220 low fever vaccination upon entry, but it’s rubella and polio, as well as for hepatitis If you are travelling through a malarial area –
Availability & Cost of Health Care 220 a good idea to carry it anyway wherever B, regardless of their destination. Planning particularly an area in which falciparum
Infectious Diseases 221 you travel. to travel is a great time to ensure that all malaria predominates – consider taking a
Travellers’ Diarrhoea 224 Travellers can register with the Interna- routine vaccination cover is complete. The self-diagnostic kit that can identify malaria
Environmental Hazards 225 tional Association for Medical Advice to Travel- consequences of these diseases can be se- in the blood from a finger prick.
Women’s Health 226 lers (IMAT; www.iamat.org). Its website can help vere, and outbreaks of them do occur.
Traditional Medicine 226 travellers to find a doctor who has recog- According to the Centers for Disease Control & INTERNET RESOURCES
nised training. Those heading off to very Prevention (www.cdc.gov), the following vaccina- There is a wealth of travel health advice
H E A LT H
H E A LT H
remote areas might like to do a first-aid tions are recommended for all parts of Af- on the internet. For further information,
As long as you stay up to date with your course (contact the Red Cross or St John’s rica: hepatitis A, hepatitis B, meningococcal the Lonely Planet website at www.lonely
vaccinations and take some basic preventive Ambulance) or attend a remote medicine meningitis, rabies and typhoid, and boosters planet.com is a good place to start. The
measures, you’d have to be pretty unlucky first-aid course, such as that offered by the for tetanus, diphtheria and measles. Yellow WHO publishes a superb book called Inter-
to succumb to most of the health hazards Royal Geographical Society (www.wildernessmedical fever is not necessarily required for Algeria national Travel and Health, which is revised
covered in this chapter. Africa certainly has training.co.uk). unless you are arriving from elsewhere in annually and is available online at no cost
an impressive selection of diseases on offer, If you are bringing medications with sub-Saharan Africa, in which case you may at www.who.int/ith/. Other websites of gen-
but most of these are extremely rare in Al- you, carry them in their original containers, need to show the certificate upon entering eral interest to travellers include MD Travel
geria and you’re much more likely to get a clearly labelled. A signed and dated letter Algeria or obtaining your visa. Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com), which provides
bout of diarrhoea (in fact, you should bank from your physician describing all medi- complete travel health recommendations
on it), a cold or an infected mosquito bite cal conditions and medications, including MEDICAL CHECKLIST for every country, updated daily, also at no
than an exotic disease. When it comes to in- generic names, is also a good idea. If car- It is a very good idea to carry a medical cost; the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention
juries (as opposed to illness), the most likely rying syringes or needles be sure to have a and first-aid kit with you, to help yourself (www.cdc.gov); and Fit for Travel (www.fitfortravel
reason for needing medical help in Algeria physician’s letter documenting their medi- in the case of minor illness or injury. Fol- .scot.nhs.uk), which features up-to-date infor-
is as a result of road accidents – vehicles cal necessity. lowing is a list of items you should consider mation about outbreaks and is very user-
are rarely well maintained, the roads are How do you go about getting the best packing. friendly.
potholed and poorly lit, and drink driving possible medical help? It’s difficult to say – acetaminophen (paracetamol) or aspirin It’s also a good idea to consult your gov-
is common. it really depends on the severity of your acetazolamide (Diamox) for treating al- ernment’s travel health website before de-
illness or injury and the availability of local titude sickness (prescription only) parture, if one is available:
help. If malaria is suspected, seek medi- adhesive or paper tape Australia (www.dfat.gov.au/travel/)
BEFORE YOU GO cal help as soon as possible or begin self-
medicating if you are off the beaten track
antibacterial ointment (eg Bactroban) for
cuts and abrasions (prescription only)
Canada (www.hc-sc.gc.ca/english/index.html)
UK (www.dh.gov.uk/en/index.htm)
A little planning before departure, particu- (see p222). antibiotics (prescription only) such as USA (www.cdc.gov/travel/)
larly for pre-existing illnesses, will save you ciprofloxacin (Ciproxin) or norfloxacin
a lot of trouble later. Before a long trip get a INSURANCE (Utinor) FURTHER READING
check-up from your dentist and from your Find out in advance whether your insur- antidiarrhoeal drugs (eg loperamide) A Comprehensive Guide to Wilderness
doctor if you have any regular medication ance plan will make payments directly to antihistamines (for hayfever and allergic and Travel Medicine by Eric A Weiss
or chronic illness, eg high blood pressure providers or will reimburse you later for reactions) (1998)
and asthma. You should also organise spare overseas health expenditures (in many anti-inflammatory drugs (eg ibuprofen) Healthy Travel by Jane Wilson-Howarth
contact lenses and glasses (and take your countries doctors expect payment in cash). antimalaria pills (1999)
220 I N T R A N S I T • • D e e p Ve i n T h r o m b o s i s ( D V T ) lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I N A L G E R I A • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s 221
Healthy Travel Africa by Isabelle Young INFECTIOUS DISEASES Hepatitis B

(2000)
How to Stay Healthy Abroad by Richard
IN ALGERIA It’s a formidable list but, as we say, a few
precautions go a long way…
Hepatitis B is passed on through infected
blood, contaminated needles and sexual in-
Dawood (2002) AVAILABILITY & COST OF tercourse. It can also be spread from an
Travel in Health by Graham Fry (1994) HEALTH CARE Cholera infected mother to the baby during child-
Travel with Children by Cathy Lanigan Health care in Algeria is varied: it can be Cholera is usually only a problem during birth. It affects the liver, causing jaundice
(2004) excellent in the major cities, which gener- natural or artificial disasters, eg war, floods and occasionally liver failure. Most people
ally have well-trained doctors and nurses, or earthquakes, although small outbreaks recover completely, but some people might
but it is often patchy off the beaten track. can also occur at other times. Travellers be chronic carriers of the virus, which could
IN TRANSIT Medicine and even sterile dressings and
intravenous fluids might need to be pur-
are rarely affected. It is caused by a bac-
teria and spread via contaminated drink-
eventually lead to cirrhosis or liver cancer.
Those visiting high-risk areas for long peri-
DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT) chased from a local pharmacy by patients ing water. The main symptom is profuse ods or those with increased social or occu-
Blood clots can form in the legs during or their relatives. The standard of dental watery diarrhoea, which causes debilitation pational risk should be immunised. Many
flights, chiefly because of prolonged im- care is equally variable, and there is an in- if fluids are not replaced quickly. An oral countries now routinely give hepatitis B as
mobility. This formation of clots is known creased risk of hepatitis B and HIV trans- cholera vaccine is available in the USA, but part of the routine childhood vaccination. It
as deep vein thrombosis (DVT), and the mission via poorly sterilised equipment. By it is not particularly effective. Most cases of is given singly or can be given at the same
longer the flight, the greater the risk. Al- and large, public hospitals in Algeria offer cholera could be avoided by close attention time as hepatitis A (hepatyrix).
though most blood clots are reabsorbed un- the cheapest service, but will have the least to good drinking water and by avoiding A course will give protection for at least
eventfully, some might break off and travel up-to-date equipment and medications; potentially contaminated food. Treatment five years. It can be given over four weeks
through the blood vessels to the lungs, mission hospitals (where donations are the is by fluid replacement (orally or via a drip), or six months.
where they could cause life-threatening usual form of payment) often have more but sometimes antibiotics are needed. At-
complications. reasonable facilities; and private hospitals tempting self-treatment is not advised. HIV
The chief symptom of DVT is swelling and clinics are more expensive but tend to Human Immunodeficiency Virus (HIV), the
or pain of the foot, ankle or calf, usually have more advanced drugs and equipment, Diphtheria virus that causes Acquired Immune Defi-
but not always on just one side. When a and better trained medical staff. Diphtheria is spread through close respira- ciency Syndrome (AIDS), is spread through
H E A LT H
H E A LT H
blood clot travels to the lungs, it could Most drugs can be purchased over the tory contact. It usually causes a tempera- infected blood and also blood products, by
cause chest pain and breathing difficulty. counter in Algeria without a prescription. ture and a severe sore throat. Sometimes a sexual intercourse with an infected part-
Travellers who are experiencing any of Many drugs for sale might be ineffective: membrane forms across the throat, and a ner and from an infected mother to her
these symptoms should immediately seek they might be counterfeit or might not have tracheostomy is needed to prevent suffoca- baby during childbirth and breastfeeding.
medical attention. been stored under the right conditions. The tion. Vaccination is recommended for those It can be spread through ‘blood to blood’
To prevent the development of DVT most common examples of counterfeit drugs likely to be in close contact with the local contacts, such as with contaminated instru-
on long flights you should walk about the are malaria tablets and expensive antibiot- population in infected areas, and is more ments during medical, dental, acupuncture
cabin, perform isometric compressions of ics, such as ciprofloxacin. Most drugs are important for long stays than for short-term and other body-piercing procedures, and
the leg muscles (ie contract the leg muscles available in capital cities, but remote villages trips. The vaccine is given as an injection through sharing used intravenous needles.
while sitting), drink plenty of fluids and will be lucky to have a couple of paracetamol alone or with tetanus, and lasts 10 years. At present there is no cure; medication
avoid alcohol. tablets. It is strongly recommended that all that might keep the disease under control
drugs for chronic diseases be brought from Hepatitis A is available, but these drugs are not readily
JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS home. Also, the availability and efficacy of Hepatitis A is spread through contaminated available for travellers either. If you think
If you’re crossing more than five time zones condoms cannot be relied upon – bring all food (particularly shellfish) and water. It you might have been infected with HIV a
you could suffer jet lag, resulting in insom- the contraception you’ll need. Condoms causes jaundice and, although it is rarely blood test is necessary; a three-month gap
nia, fatigue, malaise or nausea. To avoid bought in Algeria might not be of the same fatal, it can cause prolonged lethargy and after exposure and before testing is required
jet lag try drinking plenty of fluids (nonal- quality as in Europe or Australia, and they delayed recovery. If you’ve had hepatitis to allow antibodies to appear in the blood.
coholic) and eating light meals. Upon ar- might have been incorrectly stored. A, you shouldn’t drink alcohol for up to
rival get exposure to natural sunlight and There is a risk of contracting HIV from six months afterwards, but once you’ve Leishmaniasis
readjust your schedule (for meals, sleep etc) infected blood if you receive a blood trans- recovered, there won’t be any long-term This is spread through the bite of an in-
as soon as possible. fusion in Algeria. The BloodCare Foundation problems. The first symptoms include dark fected sandfly. It can cause a slowly growing
Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate (www.bloodcare.org.uk) is a useful source of safe, urine and a yellow colour to the whites of skin lump or ulcer (the cutaneous form)
(Dramamine) and also meclizine (Antivert, screened blood, which can be transported the eyes. Sometimes a fever and abdominal and sometimes a life-threatening fever with
Bonine) are usually the first choice for to any part of the world within 24 hours. pain might be present. Hepatitis A vaccine anaemia and weight loss. Dogs can also
treating motion sickness. The main side ef- The cost of health care might seem very (avaxim, VAQTA, havrix) is given as an in- be carriers of the infection. Sandfly bites
fect people find when they take these drugs cheap compared with developed countries, jection: a single dose will give protection for should be avoided whenever possible.
is drowsiness. A herbal alternative is ginger but good care and drugs might not be up to a year, and a booster after a year gives
(in the form of ginger tea, biscuits or crys- available. Evacuation to good medical care 10-year protection. Hepatitis A and typhoid Leptospirosis
tallized ginger), which works like a charm (within Algeria or to your own country) vaccines can also be given as a single dose Leptospirosis is spread through the excreta of
for some people. can be very expensive indeed. vaccine, hepatyrix or viatim. infected rodents, especially rats. It can cause
222 I N A L G E R I A • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I N A L G E R I A • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s 223
hepatitis and renal failure, which might be mefloquine (Larium) can bring on anxi- or premature labour. Adults who have sur- Rabies
fatal. It’s unusual for travellers to be affected ety attacks, insomnia and nightmares, and vived childhood malaria have developed Rabies is spread by receiving the bites or
unless living in poor sanitary conditions. It (rarely) severe psychiatric disorders; chlo- immunity and usually only develop mild licks of an infected animal on broken skin.
causes a fever and sometimes jaundice. roquine can cause nausea and hair loss; and cases of malaria; most Western travellers It is always fatal once the clinical symp-
proguanil can cause mouth ulcers. These have no immunity at all. Immunity wanes toms start (which might be up to several
Malaria side effects are not universal and can be after 18 months of nonexposure, so even if months after an infected bite), so post-
There is only a slight risk of malaria in minimized by taking medication correctly, you have had malaria in the past and used bite vaccination should be given as soon
Algeria. One million children die annually eg with food. Also, some people should not to live in a malaria-prone area, you might as possible. Postbite vaccination (whether
from malaria in Africa. The risk of malarial take a particular antimalarial drug, eg people no longer be immune. or not you’ve been vaccinated before the
transmission at altitudes higher than 2000m with epilepsy should avoid mefloquine, and If you are planning a journey through bite) prevents the virus from spreading to
is rare. The disease is caused by a parasite doxycycline should not be taken by preg- a malarial area, particularly where falci- the central nervous system. Animal han-
in the bloodstream spread via the bite of nant women or children younger than 12. parum malaria predominates, consider tak- dlers should be vaccinated, as should those
the female Anopheles mosquito. There are If you decide that you really do not wish ing standby treatment. Emergency standby travelling to remote areas where a reliable
several types of malaria; falciparum ma- to take antimalarial drugs, you must un- treatment should be seen as emergency source of postbite vaccine is not available
laria being the most dangerous type and derstand the risks and be obsessive about treatment aimed at saving the patient’s within 24 hours. Three preventive injec-
the predominant form in Africa. Infection avoiding mosquito bites. Use nets and in- life and not as routine self-medication. It tions are needed over a month. If you have
rates vary with season and climate, so check sect repellent, and report any fever or flulike should be used only if you will be far from not been vaccinated you will need a course
out the situation before departure. Unlike symptoms to a doctor as soon as possible. medical facilities and have been advised of five injections starting 24 hours or as
most other diseases regularly encountered Some people advocate homeopathic prepa- about the symptoms of malaria and how to soon as possible after the injury. If you have
by travellers, there is no vaccination against rations against malaria, such as Demal200, use the medication. Medical advice should been vaccinated you will need fewer post-
malaria (yet). However, several different but as yet there is no conclusive evidence be sought as soon as possible to confirm bite injections and have more time to seek
drugs are used to prevent malaria and new that this is effective, and many homeopaths whether the treatment has been successful. medical help.
ones are in the pipeline. Up-to-date advice do not recommend their use. The type of standby treatment used will
from a travel health clinic is essential as People of all ages can contract malaria, depend on local conditions, such as drug Tuberculosis
some medication is more suitable for some and falciparum causes the most severe resistance, and on what antimalarial drugs Tuberculosis (TB) is passed on through
H E A LT H
H E A LT H
travellers than others. The pattern of drug- illness. Repeated infections might result were being used before standby treatment. close respiratory contact and occasionally
resistant malaria is changing rapidly, so eventually in less serious illness. Malaria in This is worthwhile because you want to through infected milk or milk products.
what was advised several years ago might pregnancy frequently results in miscarriage avoid contracting a particularly serious BCG vaccination is recommended for those
no longer be used. form such as cerebral malaria, which af- likely to be mixing closely with the local
Malaria can present in several ways. The fects the brain and central nervous system population, although it gives only moderate
early stages include headaches, fevers, gen- THE ANTIMALARIAL A TO D and can be fatal in 24 hours. Self-diagnostic protection against TB. It is more important
eralised aches and pains, and malaise, which A: Awareness of the risk No medication kits (see p219), which can identify malaria for long stays than for short-term stays. In-
could be mistaken for flu. Other symptoms is totally effective, but protection of up to 95% in the blood from a finger prick, are also oculation with the BCG vaccine is not avail-
can include abdominal pain, diarrhoea and is achievable with most drugs, as long as other available in the West. able in all countries. It is given routinely
a cough. Anyone who develops a fever in measures have been taken. The risks from malaria to both mother to many children in developing countries.
a malarial area should assume malarial in- B: Bites Avoid being bitten at all costs. Sleep in and foetus during pregnancy are consid- The vaccination causes a small permanent
fection until a blood test proves negative, a screened room, use a mosquito spray or coils, erable. Unless good medical care can be scar at the site of injection, and is usually
even if you have been taking antimalarial and sleep under a permethrin-impregnated net guaranteed, travel throughout Algeria given in a specialised chest clinic. It is a
medication. If not treated the next stage at night. Cover up at night with long trousers and when pregnant – particularly to malarial live vaccine and should not be given to
could develop within 24 hours, particularly long sleeves, preferably with permethrin-treated areas – should be discouraged unless es- pregnant women or immunocompromised
if falciparum malaria is the parasite: jaun- clothing. Apply appropriate repellent to all areas of sential. Use emergency standby treatment individuals.
dice, then reduced consciousness and coma exposed skin in the evenings. if you are more than 24 hours away from TB can be asymptomatic, only being
(also known as cerebral malaria) followed by C: Chemical prevention Antimalarial drugs medical help. picked up on a routine chest X-ray. Alter-
death. Treatment in hospital is essential, and are usually needed in malarial areas. Expert advice natively, it can cause a cough, weight loss
the death rate might still be as high as 10% is needed as resistance patterns can change and Poliomyelitis or fever, sometimes months or even years
even in the best intensive-care facilities. new drugs are in development. Not all antimalarial Generally spread through contaminated after exposure.
Many travellers are under the impression drugs are suitable for everyone. Most antimalarial food and water, one of the vaccines is
that malaria is a mild illness, that treatment drugs need to be started at least a week in advance given in childhood and should be boosted Typhoid
is always easy and successful, and that tak- and continued for four weeks after the last possible every 10 years, either orally (a drop on This is spread through food or water con-
ing antimalarial drugs causes more illness exposure to malaria. the tongue) or as an injection. Polio can taminated by infected human faeces. The
through side effects than actually getting D: Diagnosis If you have a fever or flulike illness be carried asymptomatically (ie showing first symptom is usually a fever or a pink
malaria. In Africa this is unfortunately within a year of travel to a malarial area, malaria no symptoms) and could cause a transient rash on the abdomen. Sometimes sep-
not true. Side effects of the medication is a possibility and immediate medical attention is fever. In rare cases it causes weakness or ticaemia (blood poisoning) can occur. A
depend on the drug being taken. Doxycy- necessary. paralysis of one or more muscles, which typhoid vaccine (typhim Vi, typherix) will
cline can cause heartburn and indigestion; might be permanent. give protection for three years. In some
224 I N A L G E R I A • • T r a v e l l e r s ’ D i a r r h o e a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I N A L G E R I A • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s 225
(usually a quinoline drug, such as cipro- temperature, irrational and hyperactive be-
MANDATORY YELLOW FEVER VACCINATION floxacin or norfloxacin) and an antidiar- haviour, and eventually loss of conscious-
North Africa – Not mandatory for any areas of North Africa, but Algeria, Libya and Tunisia rhoeal agent (such as loperamide) if you ness and death. Rapid cooling by spraying
require evidence of yellow fever vaccination if entering from an infected country. It is are not within easy reach of a toilet. If diar- the body with water and fanning is ideal.
recommended for travellers to Sudan, and might be given to unvaccinated travellers leaving rhoea is bloody, persists for more than 72 Emergency fluid and electrolyte replace-
the country. hours or is accompanied by fever, shaking ment is usually required by intravenous
Central Africa – Mandatory in Central African Republic (CAR), Congo, Congo (Zaïre), Equatorial chills or severe abdominal pain, you should drip.
Guinea and Gabon, and recommended in Chad. seek medical attention.
Insect Bites & Stings
West Africa – Mandatory in Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Côte d’Ivoire, Ghana, Liberia, Mali,
Niger, Sao Tome & Principe and Togo, and recommended for The Gambia, Guinea, Guinea-
Amoebic Dysentery Mosquitoes might not always carry ma-
Bissau, Mauritania, Nigeria, Senegal and Sierra Leone.
Contracted by eating contaminated food laria or dengue fever, but they (and other
and water, amoebic dysentery causes blood insects) can cause irritation and infected
East Africa – Mandatory in Rwanda; it is advised for Burundi, Ethiopia, Kenya, Somalia, and mucus in the faeces. It can be relatively bites. To avoid this, take the same precau-
Tanzania and Uganda. mild and tends to come on gradually, but tions as you would for avoiding malaria
Southern Africa – Not mandatory for entry into any countries of Southern Africa, although it seek medical advice if you think you have (see p222). Use DEET-based insect repel-
is necessary if entering from an infected country. the illness as it won’t clear up without treat- lents. Excellent clothing treatments are also
ment (which is with specific antibiotics). available; mosquitoes that land on treated
clothing will die.
countries the oral vaccine Vivotif is also the port of arrival for up to 10 days or Giardiasis Bee and wasp stings cause real problems
available. Antibiotics are usually given as possibly repatriated. This, like amoebic dysentery, is also caused only to those who have a severe allergy to
treatment and death is rare unless septi- Yellow fever is spread by infected mos- by ingesting contaminated food or water. the stings (anaphylaxis.) If you are one of
caemia occurs. quitoes. Symptoms range from a flulike The illness usually appears a week or more these people, carry an ‘epipen’ – an adrena-
illness to severe hepatitis (liver inflamma- after you have been exposed to the offend- line (epinephrine) injection, which you can
Yellow Fever tion), jaundice and death. The yellow fever ing parasite. Giardiasis might cause only a give yourself. This could save your life.
Travellers should carry a certificate as evi- vaccination must be given at a designated short-lived bout of typical travellers’ diar- Sandflies are found around the Mediter-
H E A LT H
H E A LT H
dence of vaccination if they have recently clinic and is valid for 10 years. It is a live rhoea, but it can also cause persistent diar- ranean beaches. They usually only cause a
been in an infected country, to avoid any vaccine and must not be given to immuno- rhoea. Ideally, seek medical advice if you nasty itchy bite but can carry a rare skin
possible difficulties with immigration. For compromised or pregnant travellers. suspect you have giardiasis, but if you are disorder called cutaneous leishmaniasis
a full list of these countries visit the web- in a remote area you could start a course (see p221). Prevention of bites with DEET-
site of the WHO (www.who.int/wer/) or the Cent- TRAVELLERS’ DIARRHOEA of antibiotics. based repellents is sensible.
ers for Disease Control & Prevention (www.cdc Although it’s not inevitable that you will Scorpions are frequently found in arid or
.gov/travel/blusheet.htm). There is always the get diarrhoea while travelling in Algeria, ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS dry climates. They can cause a painful bite
possibility that a traveller without a le- it’s certainly possible. Diarrhoea is the most Heat Exhaustion that is sometimes life-threatening. If bitten
gally required, up-to-date certificate will common travel-related illness – figures sug- This condition can occur following heavy by a scorpion take a painkiller. Medical treat-
be vaccinated and detained in isolation at gest that at least half of travellers to Africa sweating and excessive fluid loss with inad- ment should be sought if collapse occurs.
will get diarrhoea at some stage. Sometimes equate replacement of fluids and salt, and is Bed bugs are often found in hostels and
Yellow Fever Risk in Africa dietary changes, such as increased spices or particularly common in hot climates when cheap hotels. They lead to very itchy, lumpy
oils, are the cause. To help prevent diar- taking unaccustomed exercise before full bites. Spraying the mattress with crawling
rhoea, avoid tap water unless you’re sure acclimatisation. Symptoms include head- insect killer after changing bedding will get
it’s safe to drink (see p226). You should also ache, dizziness and tiredness. Dehydration rid of them.
only eat fresh fruits or vegetables if cooked is already happening by the time you feel Scabies is also frequently found in cheap
or peeled, and be wary of dairy products thirsty – aim to drink sufficient water to accommodation. These tiny mites live in
that might contain unpasteurised milk. Al- produce pale, diluted urine. Self-treatment: the skin, particularly between the fingers.
though freshly cooked food can often be a fluid replacement with water and/or fruit They cause an intensely itchy rash. The
safe option, plates or serving utensils might juice, and cooling by cold water and fans. itch is easily treated with malathion and
be dirty, so you should be highly selective The treatment of the salt-loss component permethrin lotion from a pharmacy; other
when eating food from street vendors (make consists of consuming salty fluids as in members of the household also need treat-
sure that cooked food is piping hot all the soup, and adding a little more table salt to ing to avoid spreading scabies, even if they
way through). If you develop diarrhoea, be foods than usual. do not show any symptoms.
sure to drink plenty of fluids, preferably an
Areas with no
oral rehydration solution containing water Heatstroke Snake Bites
Yellow Fever (lots), and some salt and sugar. A few loose Heat exhaustion is a precursor to the much Basically, avoid getting bitten! Do not walk
Endemic Zones stools don’t require treatment, but if you more serious condition of heatstroke. In barefoot, or stick your hand into holes or
start having more than four or five stools this case there is damage to the sweating cracks. However, 50% of those bitten by
a day you should start taking an antibiotic mechanism, with an excessive rise in body venomous snakes are not actually injected
226 I N A L G E R I A • • W o m e n ’ s H e a l t h lonelyplanet.com
with poison (envenomed). If bitten by a TRADITIONAL MEDICINE

snake do not panic. Immobilise the bitten At least 80% of the African population re-
limb with a splint (such as a stick) and apply lies on traditional medicine, often because
a bandage over the site, with firm pressure – conventional Western-style medicine is too
similar to bandaging a sprain. Do not apply expensive, because of prevailing cultural at-
a tourniquet, or cut or suck the bite. Get titudes and beliefs, or simply because in
medical help as soon as possible so anti- some cases it works.
venom can be given if needed. Although some African remedies seem
to work on malaria, sickle cell anaemia,
Water high blood pressure and some AIDS symp-
Never drink tap water unless it has been toms, most African healers learn their
boiled, filtered or chemically disinfected art by apprenticeship, so education (and
(such as with iodine tablets). Never drink consequently application of knowledge) is
from streams, rivers and lakes. It’s also best inconsistent and unregulated. Convention-
to avoid drinking from pumps and wells – ally trained physicians in South Africa, for
some do bring pure water to the surface, example, angrily describe how their AIDS
but the presence of animals can still con- patients die of kidney failure because a san-
taminate supplies. goma (traditional healer) has given them an
enema containing an essence made from
WOMEN’S HEALTH powerful roots. Likewise, when traditional
Emotional stress, exhaustion and travelling healers administer ‘injections’ with porcu-
across time zones can all contribute to an pine quills, knives or dirty razor blades,
upset in the menstrual pattern. Some anti- diseases are often spread or created rather
biotics, diarrhoea and vomiting can interfere than cured.
with the effectiveness of oral contraceptives Rather than attempting to stamp out tra-
H E A LT H
and lead to the risk of pregnancy – remem- ditional practices, or simply pretend they
ber to take condoms just in case. Time zones, aren’t happening, a positive first step taken
gastrointestinal upsets and antibiotics do not by some African countries is the regulation
affect injectable contraception. of traditional medicine by creating heal-
Travelling during pregnancy is usually ers’ associations and offering courses on
possible but always consult your doctor such topics as sanitary practices. It remains
before planning your trip. The most risky unlikely in the short term that even a basic
times for travel are during the first 12 weeks level of conventional Western-style medi-
of pregnancy and after 30 weeks. cine will be made available to all the people
Tampons are available in pharmacies and of Africa (even though the cost of doing
supermarkets in the major cities of Algeria. so is less than the annual military budget
Further afield choice is limited to pads and of some Western countries). Traditional
even they can be difficult to find. It’s best medicine, on the other hand, will almost
to take supplies from home or stock up in certainly continue to be practised widely
the major towns. throughout the continent.
227
Language
speak it, particularly in urban areas. English
is now taught in secondary schools, but
CONTENTS speakers of any fluency will be very few and
far between.
Algerian Arabic 227 Algerian Arabic will undoubtedly be the
Transliteration 229 most useful language for everyday communi-
Pronunciation 229 cation, and any attempts on your part to
Accommodation 229 speak it will be rewarded manifold through
Conversation & Essentials 230 the warm reception and encouragement
Emergencies 230 shown by those you practise on.
Directions 230 If you’d like to delve more deeply into
Health 231 the regional dialects of Arabic, including
Language Difficulties 231 that spoken in Algeria and neighbouring
Numbers 231 countries, get a copy of Lonely Planet’s
Paperwork 231 Middle East Phrasebook. Lonely Planet’s
Question Words 232 French Phrasebook will also prove very use-
Shopping & Services 232 ful in these destinations.
Time & Dates 232
Transport
Travel with Children
232
233 ALGERIAN ARABIC
French 233
Accommodation 233
Algerian Arabic is from the group of Arabic
Conversation & Essentials 234
dialects known as the Western (Maghreb)
Emergencies 234
dialects, which also includes Moroccan and
Directions 234
Tunisian Arabic. It’s basically a dialect of
Health 235
the standard language, but so different in
Language Difficulties 235
many respects as to be virtually another
Numbers 235
language. As with most dialects, it’s the every-
Paperwork 235 day language that differs the most from that
Question Words 235 of Algeria’s other Arabic-speaking neigh-
Shopping & Services 236 bours. More specialised or educated lan-
Time & Dates 236 guage tends to be pretty much the same
across the Arab world, although pronun-
LANGUAGE
Transport 236
Travel with Children 237 ciation may vary considerably. An Arab
from, say, Jordan or Iraq will have no prob-
lem having a chat about politics or litera-
ture with an Algerian, but might have more
Arabic is the official language of Algeria trouble making themselves understood in a
and Berber is afforded ‘national’ language market in Algiers.
status. While standard Arabic (MSA) is There is no official written form of the
used in both written and spoken form in Algerian Arabic dialect, although there is
the media and government, it differs sig- no practical reason for this; the alphabet is
nificantly from the language – known as phonetically based and it would therefore
Algerian Arabic – that the vast majority of be possible to devise a way to transfer spo-
people speak in daily life. In Saharan re- ken language to written language. For some
gions, a number of other Arabic dialects are reason though, foreigners who specifically
spoken. Several varieties of Berber are spo- want to learn Algerian Arabic instead of
ken, the most common dialect being kabyle, MSA are told that it can’t be written in
which is spoken around Kabylie. French script, and are then presented with one sys-
(see p233) is still taught as a second lan- tem or other of transliteration, none of
guage in schools and many Algerians still which are totally satisfactory. This will give
228 A L G E R I A N A R A B I C • • T h e S t a n d a r d A r a b i c A l p h a b e t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com A L G E R I A N A R A B I C • • T r a n s l i t e r a t i o n 229
you some idea of why few non-Arabs and Consonants

THE STANDARD ARABIC ALPHABET non-Muslims embark on the study of the Pronunciation of Arabic consonants is cov-
Final Medial Initial Alone Transliteration Pronunciation language. ered in the alphabet table (p228). Note that
Nevertheless, if you take the time to learn when double consonants occur in translit-
ā/aa as in ‘father’/as the long ‘a’ sound in ‘air’ even a handful of words and phrases, you’ll erations, each consonant is pronounced.
b as in ‘bet’ discover and experience much more while For example, il-Hammaam, (bathroom), is
travelling through the country. pronounced ‘il-ham-maam’.
t as in ‘ten’
th as in ‘thin’ TRANSLITERATION Other Sounds
j as in ‘jet’ The whole business of transliteration is Arabic has two sounds that are very tricky
fraught with pitfalls, and the reality is that it for non-Arabs to produce, the ’ayn and the
H a strongly whispered ‘h’, like a sigh of relief simply isn’t possible to devise a truly ‘correct’ glottal stop. The letter ’ayn represents a
kh as the ‘ch’ in Scottish loch system. The locals themselves can only sound with no English equivalent that
d as in ‘dim’ guess at how to make the conversion – and comes even close – it is similar to the glot-
the result is often amusing. The fact that tal stop (which is not actually represented
dh as the ‘th’ in ‘this’; also as d or z French has had a big influence in Algeria in the alphabet) but the muscles at the back
r a rolled ‘r’, as in the Spanish word caro has also led to many interesting ideas on of the throat are gagged more forcefully and
z as in ‘zip’ transliteration. Don’t be taken aback if you air is allowed to escape, creating a sound
start noticing half a dozen different spellings that has been described as reminiscent of
s as in ‘so’, never as in ‘wisdom’ for the same thing. someone being strangled! In many translit-
sh as in ‘ship’ For this book, an attempt has been made eration systems ’ayn is represented by an
emphatic ‘s’ (see below) to standardise some spellings of place opening quotation mark, and the glottal
names and the like. There is only one article
emphatic ‘d’ (see below) stop by a closing quotation mark. To make
in Arabic: al (the). It’s also sometimes writ-
the transliterations in this language guide
emphatic ‘t’ (see below) ten as ‘il’ or ‘el’, occasionally contracted to
‘l’ and sometimes modified to reflect the (and throughout the rest of the book) easier
emphatic ‘dh’ (see below) to use, we have not distinguished between
first consonant of the following noun, eg in
’ the Arabic letter ’ayn; pronounce as a glottal Saladin’s name, Salah ad-Din (righteous- the glottal stop and the ’ayn, using the clos-
stop – like the closing of the throat before ness of the faith), the ‘al’ has been modified ing quotation mark to represent both
saying ‘Oh-oh!’ (see Other Sounds on p229) to ‘ad’ before the ‘d’ of ‘Din’. The article el sounds. Even though your pronunciation
is used only in a few instances in this book, may be a little wide of the mark, you’ll find
gh a guttural sound like Parisian ‘r’ that people will still understand you.
such as well-known places (El-Oued and
f as in ‘far’ El-Goléa) or where locals have used it in
q a strongly guttural ‘k’ sound; also often restaurant and hotel names. ACCOMMODATION
pronounced as a glottal stop I’m looking for a ... ana inHawwas ’ala ...
PRONUNCIATION hotel oteel
k as in ‘king’ Pronunciation of Arabic can be somewhat youth hostel daar ash-shabaab
LANGUAGE
LANGUAGE
l as in ‘lamb’ tongue-tying for those unfamiliar with the
intonation and combination of sounds. The Where can I find a ween kayin oteel rakhees?
m as in ‘me’
following guide should help, but it isn’t cheap hotel?
n as in ‘name’ complete because the myriad rules govern- What is the address? waash l-adrees?
h as in ‘ham’ ing pronunciation and vowel use are too Could you write the mumkin tiktibshee l-adrees?
extensive to be covered here. address, please?
w as in ‘wet’; or
Do you have rooms ’andkumshee shambra faarigha?
oo long, as in ‘food’; or Vowels & Diphthongs available?
ow as in ‘how’ a as in ‘had’ (sometimes very short)
aa like the long ‘a’ sound in ‘air’ I’d like a ... ana baghee ...
y as in ‘yes’; or I’d like to book a ... ana baghee n’erben ...
e as in ‘bet’ (sometimes very short)
ee as in ‘beer’, only softer; or ee as in ‘beer’, only softer bed sreer
ai/ay as in ‘aisle’/as the ‘ay’ in ‘day’ i as in ‘hit’ single room shambra li waaHid
o as in ‘hot’ double room shambra doobal
Vowels Not all Arabic vowel sounds are represented in the alphabet. For more information on the vowel sounds oo as in ‘food’ room with two beds shambra ma’ sareerayn
used in this language guide, see Pronunciation on p229. u as in ‘put’ room with a shambra fee-ha beet
Emphatic Consonants To simplify the transliteration system used in this book, the emphatic consonants have not ow as in ‘how’ bathroom ham-maam
been differentiated from their non-emphatic counterparts. ai as in ‘aisle’ room with air-con/ shambra ma’ mirwaha
ay as in ‘day’ fan
230 A L G E R I A N A R A B I C • • C o n v e r s a t i o n & E s s e n t i a l s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com A L G E R I A N A R A B I C • • H e a l t h 231
How much is it ...? aash Haal ...? HEALTH NUMBERS

per night aash Haal il-leela? EMERGENCIES I’m ill. ana mreedh/a (m/f) Arabic numerals are simple to learn and,
per person kul shakhs Help! ’awen-nee! My friend is ill. saHbee/saHibtee mreedh/a (m/f) unlike the written language, run from left
There’s been an kayin akseedon It hurts here. yuwja’ni hinaa to right. Pay attention to the order of the
Do you have any ’andkumshee shambra arkhas? accident. words in numbers from 21 to 99. When
cheaper rooms? I’m lost. ana imwedder (m) I’m ... ana mreedh/a bi ... (m/f) followed by a noun, the pronunciation of
May I see it? mumkin inshoof-ha? ana imweddra (f) asthmatic il-fadda meeya changes to meet for the numbers 100
Where is the ween beet Ham-maam? Go away! rooH qilnee khalleenee! diabetic Hloowa and 300 to 900, and the noun is always used
bathroom? Call a doctor! jeeboolee tabeeb! epileptic l-epilepsee in its singular form.
(I’m leaving/We’re (ana nimshi/aHna nimsheeoo) Call the police! jeeboolee il-booleeseeya!
leaving) today. il-yoom I’ve been robbed. sarqoolee Hwayjee I have ... ’andee ... 0 sifr ٠
Making a Reservation Where are the toilets? ween kayin it-twaalet? diarrhoea kirshee tijree 1 waaHid ١
in the name of ... bi ’ism ... fever skhaana 2 zooj ٢
date taareekh Where are you from? mineen inta (to a man) headache wjee’it ir-raas 3 tlaata ٣
from (date) to (date) min inhaar (...) lin-haar (...) mineen intee (to a woman) 4 reb’a ٤
credit card ... kart kredee ... I’m from ... ana min ... I’m allergic ... ’andee Hasaseeya ... 5 khamsa ٥
number noomroo I like/don’t like ... ana inHebb/manHebbish to antibiotics min antbioteek 6 sitta ٦
expiry date taareekh al-’intihaa Just a minute. dageega waaHida to aspirin min asbireen 7 sab’a ٧
to bees min naHl 8 tmaanya ٨
CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS DIRECTIONS to nuts min looz 9 tis’a ٩
Hello. salaam Where is ...? ween kayin ...? to peanuts min kakaweeya 10 ’ashra ١٠
(response) salaam Go straight ahead. rooH deerekt to penicillin min penisileen 11 Hedaash ١١
Hello/Welcome. marHaba beek (to one person) Turn left. door a-gosh 12 tenaash ١٢
marHaba beekum (to a group) Turn right. door a-limeen antiseptic anteesepteek 13 tletaash ١٣
(response) oo beek/beekum at the (next) corner fil kwan (illee jayy) aspirin asbireen 14 rbetaash ١٤
Good morning. sbaaH al-kheer at the traffic lights fi dhaw aHmer condoms preservateef 15 khmestaash ١٥
(response) sbaaH al-kheer behind waraa contraceptive wasaa’il mana’ il Haml 16 sittaash ١٦
Good evening. masa’ al-kheer in front of guddaam hospital sbeetaar 17 sbe’taash ١٧
(response) masa’ al-kheer far (from) ba’eed (’ala) medicine dwaa 18 tmentaash ١٨
Good night. leela sa’eeda near (to) greeb (min) pharmacy fermasyaan 19 tsa’taash ١٩
(response) leela sa’eeda
opposite mgaabil pregnant Hebla 20 ’ashreen ٢٠
Goodbye. bi-slaama
here hnaa prescription warqit at-tabeeb 21 waaHid wi ’ashreen ٢١
(response) tibqa ’ala kheer
there temma sanitary napkins alwees (brand name) 22 teneen wi ’ashreen ٢٢
Yes. waaH (or na’am - more formal)
this address haada l-adrees stomachache wjee’it il-maada 30 tlaateen ٣٠
No. la
north shmaal sunblock cream kreema did ish-shams 40 reba’een ٤٠
Please. min fadlek (when asking for
south janoob tampons tampax 50 khamseen ٥٠
LANGUAGE
LANGUAGE
something in a shop)
east sharq 60 sitteen ٦٠
tfaddel/tfaddelee/tfaddloo (to
man/woman/group; when west gharb LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES 70 sab’een ٧٠
offering/inviting)
Do you speak English? 80 tmaneen ٨٠
itfaddel/itfaddelee/itfaddloo (to beach il-bHar titkallim ingleeziyya? 90 tis’een ٩٠
man/woman/group; similar to bridge il-qantra Does anyone here speak English? 100 meeya (meet before nouns) ١٠٠
tfaddel, etc) castle il-qala’ skhoon yeHder feekum yitkallim ingleeziyya? 200 meeteen ٢٠٠
Thank you. saHHa/’ayshek my hotel oteel taa’ee How do you say ... in Algerian Arabic? 1000 alf ١٠٠٠
(response) yeselmek island jazeera kifaash tagooloo ... bi lahja dzayreeya? 2000 alfeen ٢٠٠٠
Excuse me. smaaH lee (to one person) main square is-saaHa li-kabeera What does ... mean?
That’s fine/You’re blaa imzeeya mosque il-jaami’ waash ta’nee ... How many? gaddaash?
welcome. museum il-matHaf I understand.
Sorry/Apologies. smaaH old city limdeena ligdeema fehimt PAPERWORK
What’s your name? waash asmek? palace il-qasr I don’t understand. name ism
My name is ... asmee ... ruins il-athaar ma fehimtish nationality jinsiyya
Pleased to meet you. mitsharf (m)/ mitsharfa (f) sea il-baHr Please write it down. date/place of birth tareekh/maHal il-milâd
How are you? kee raak? (to one person) square is-saaHa mumkin tiktibhaalee sex (gender) jins
kee raakum? (to a group) street it-treeg Can you show me (on the map)? passport paspor
I’m fine. la baas ilHamdu lillah village al-qarya mumkin twarreenee (fi l- khareeta)? visa veeza
232 A L G E R I A N A R A B I C • • Q u e s t i o n W o r d s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com F R E N C H • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n 233
QUESTION WORDS in the evening fi l-leel Which bus goes to ...? TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN
Who? shkoon? today il-yoom aana Hooma il-kaar yeddi li- ...? Is there (a/an) ...? kayin ...?
What? waash? tomorrow ghudwa Does this bus go to ...? I need (a/an) .... Haajti bi ...
When? winta? yesterday ilbaaraH Haad il-kaar yeddi li ...? car baby seat kursi taa’ draaree li lowto
Where? ween? day yoom Please tell me when we arrive in ... child-minding kresh
How? keefaash? month sh-har min fadlek gullee waqtillee nuwsiloo fi ... service
Which? aana Hooma? week semaana What is the fare to ...? children’s menu menyoo taa’ draaree
year ’aam sheHaal it-teekee li ...?
disposable nappies/ koosh
SHOPPING & SERVICES early bikree Stop here, please.
late rotaar waqif hnaa min fadlek
diapers
I’d like to buy ... inHebb nishree ... infant milk formula Haleeb draaree
How much is it? aash Haal? daily kull yoom Wait!
istanna! (English-speaking) babysitter (illi titkallim bi
I don’t like it. ma y’ajibneesh babysitter l-ingleeziyya)
May I look at it? mumkin inshoofu? Monday inhaar it-itneen
Tuesday inhaar it-tlaata the first il-awwil/oola (m/f) highchair kursee taa’ draaree
I’m just looking. ga’ad inshoof bark potty kasreeya
It’s cheap. heeya rakheesa Wednesday inhaar il-arba’ the last il-aakhir
Thursday inhaar il-khmees the next il-qaadim stroller karoosa
It’s too expensive. heeya ghaaleeya bizaaf
No more than ... mush akthaar min ...
Friday inhaar ij-jema’ airport layropor
Saturday inhaar is-sibt bus station is-stasyoon il-kaar Are children allowed? tiqbloo draaree?
I’ll take it. nishreeha
Sunday inhaar il-Hadd bus stop laree
FRENCH
city limdeena
Can you give me ...? tnajjemshee t’amelee ...?
January janfee platform number noomroo raseef
a discount takhfeedh
February feefree ticket office il-geeshee
a good price sooma mleeHa
March meghress timetable jadwal awqaat While French has no official language sta-
April abreel train station lagaar tus in Algeria, it is still widely spoken, par-
Do you accept ...? taakhudh ...?
May maayoo
credit cards kart kredee ticularly in urban areas. A few words and
June jwaan Private Transport phrases could come in handy if you find
traveller cheques sheekaat siyaHiyya July jweeyee I’d like to hire a/an ... inHebb nikree ... yourself in a bind.
August oot car lowto In French, an important distinction is
more akthir September sibtamber 4WD too terran
less agall made between tu and vous, which both
October uktoober motorbike mooter mean ‘you’. The informal tu is only used
smaller asghar November nofamber bicycle beskleet
bigger akbar when addressing people you know well, or
December deesamber camel jimal children. When addressing an adult who is
donkey Hmaar not a personal friend, vous should be used
I’m looking for ... ana inHawwas ’ala ... TRANSPORT guide geed
a bank banka unless the person invites you to use tu.
Public Transport horse Hsaan
the bazaar/market is-sooq When does the ... winta iqella’/tuwsil ...?
the city centre wist il-blaad ACCOMMODATION
LANGUAGE
leave/arrive? Is this the road to ...?
LANGUAGE
Haad it-treeg teddi li ...?
the (...) embassy as-sifaara (...) I’m looking for Je cherche ... zher shersh ...
boat il-baboor Where’s a service ween il-kiyosk?
the post office il-bosta bus il-kaar station? a ...
the telephone haatif il-’umoomee ferry il-ferry Please fill it up. ’abbeehaalee min fadlek campground un camping un kom·peeng
centre plane it-tayyaara I’d like (30) litres. inHebb (tlaateen) leetra guesthouse une pension ewn pon·syon
the tourist office maktab is-siyaaHa train it-treen diesel diyaysel (de famille) (der fa·mee·ler)
leaded petrol leesans normaal (regular) hotel un hôtel un o·tel
I want to change ... inHebb insarrif ... I’d like a ... ticket. ana baghee/bagheeya teekee ... leesans sooper (super) youth hostel une auberge ewn o·berzh
money draahem one-way maashee unleaded petrol leesans son plom de jeunesse der zher·nes
travellers cheques sheekaat siyaHiyya return maashee oo jayy (How long) Can I mumkin inwaggif lowto hnaa
1st-class daarija oola park here? (Hatta winta?) Where is a cheap hotel?
Where is an internet ween kayin internet kafay? 2nd-class daarija taanya Where do I pay? ween inkhallis? Où est-ce qu’on peut trouver un hôtel pas cher?
café? I need a mechanic. Haajti bi mekanisyan oo es·kon per troo·vay un o·tel pa shair
I want to go to ... The car has broken lowto taaHit on pan (’and ...) What is the address?
TIME & DATES inHebb inrooH ... down (at ...) Quelle est l’adresse?
What time is it? sheHaal is-saa’a drook? The train has been delayed. The car won’t start. lowto mayikhdimsh kel e la·dres
It’s (8 o’clock). drook (it-temaanya) it-treen er-rotaar I have a flat tyre. il-pnou menfoosh Could you write it down, please?
in the morning fi s-sbaaH The train has been cancelled. I’ve run out of petrol. wfaalee leesans Est-ce que vous pourriez l’écrire, s’il vous plaît?
in the afternoon fi l-’asheeya naHaaoo it-treen I’ve had an accident. ’amelt akseedon e·sker voo poo·ryay lay·kreer seel voo play
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Do you have any rooms available? old city la vieille ville la vyay veel Can you show me (on the map)?
Est-ce que vous avez des chambres libres? EMERGENCIES ruins les ruines lay rween Pouvez-vous m’indiquer poo·vay·voo mun·dee·kay
e·sker voo·za·vay day shom·brer lee·brer Help! sea la mer la mair (sur la carte)? (sewr la kart)
Au secours! o skoor street la rue la roo
I’d like (a) ...Je voudrais ... zher voo·dray ... There’s been an accident! village le village ler vee·lazh NUMBERS
single room une chambre à ewn shom·brer Il y a eu un accident! eel ya ew un ak·see·don 0 zero zay·ro
un lit a un lee I’m lost. HEALTH 1 un un
double-bed une chambre ewn shom·brer Je me suis égaré/e. (m/f) zhe me swee·zay·ga·ray I’m ill. Je suis malade. zher swee ma·lad 2 deux der
room avec un grand a·vek un gron Leave me alone! It hurts here. J’ai une douleur zhay ewn doo·ler 3 trois trwa
lit lee Fichez-moi la paix! fee·shay·mwa la pay ici. ee·see 4 quatre ka·trer
twin room une chambre ewn shom·brer 5 cinq sungk
with two beds avec des lits a·vek day lee Call ...! Appelez ...! a·play ... I’m ... Je suis ... zher swee ... 6 six sees
jumeaux zhew·mo a doctor un médecin un mayd·sun asthmatic asthmatique (z)as·ma·teek 7 sept set
room with une chambre ewn shom·brer the police la police la po·lees diabetic diabétique dee·a·bay·teek 8 huit weet
a bathroom avec une salle a·vek ewn sal epileptic épileptique (z)ay·pee·lep·teek 9 neuf nerf
de bains der bun Where are you from? 10 dix dees
to share a dorm coucher dans koo·sher don De quel pays êtes-vous? der kel pay·ee et·voo I’m allergic Je suis zher swee 11 onze onz
un dortoir zun dor·twa to ... allergique ... za·lair·zheek ... 12 douze dooz
De quel pays es-tu? (inf) der kel pay·ee e·tew
I’m from ... antibiotics aux antibiotiques o zon·tee·byo·teek 13 treize trez
How much is it ...? Quel est le prix ...? kel e ler pree ... aspirin à l’aspirine a las·pee·reen 14 quatorze ka·torz
per night par nuit par nwee Je viens de ... zher vyen der ...
I like ... bees aux abeilles o za·bay·yer 15 quinze kunz
per person par personne par per·son nuts aux noix o nwa 16 seize sez
J’aime ... zhem ...
I don’t like ... peanuts aux cacahuètes o ka·ka·wet 17 dix-sept dee·set
May I see it? penicillin à la pénicilline a la pay·nee· 18 dix-huit dee·zweet
Est-ce que je peux voir es·ker zher per vwa la Je n’aime pas ... zher nem pa ...
Just a minute. see·leen 19 dix-neuf deez·nerf
la chambre? shom·brer
Une minute. ewn mee·newt 20 vingt vung
Where is the bathroom?
antiseptic l’antiseptique lon·tee·sep·teek 21 vingt et un vung tay un
Où est la salle de oo e la sal der bun
DIRECTIONS aspirin l’aspirine las·pee·reen 22 vingt-deux vung·der
bains?
Where is ...? condoms des préservatifs day pray·zair·va·teef 30 trente tront
Where is the toilet?
Où sont les toilettes? oo·son lay twa·let Où est ...? oo e ... contraceptive le contraceptif ler kon·tra·sep·teef 40 quarante ka·ront
I’m leaving today. Go straight ahead. diarrhoea la diarrhée la dya·ray 50 cinquante sung·kont
Je pars aujourd’hui. zher par o·zhoor·dwee medicine le médicament ler may·dee·ka·mon 60 soixante swa·sont
Continuez tout droit. kon·teen·way too drwa
We’re leaving today. nausea la nausée la no·zay 70 soixante-dix swa·son·dees
Turn left.
Nous partons noo par·ton sunblock cream la crème solaire la krem so·lair 80 quatre-vingts ka·trer·vung
Tournez à gauche. toor·nay a gosh
aujourd’hui. o·zhoor·dwee tampons des tampons day tom·pon 90 quatre-vingt-dix ka·trer·vung·dees
Turn right. hygiéniques ee·zhen·eek 100 cent son
Tournez à droite. toor·nay a drwa
LANGUAGE
1000
LANGUAGE
CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS mille meel
at the corner LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES How many? Combien? kom·byun
Hello. Bonjour. bon·zhoor au coin o kwun
Goodbye. Au revoir. o·rer·vwa Do you speak English?
at the traffic lights Parlez-vous anglais? par·lay·voo ong·lay PAPERWORK
Yes. Oui. wee aux feux o fer
No. Non. no Does anyone here speak English? name nom nom
Please. S’il vous plaît. seel voo play Y a-t-il quelqu’un qui ya·teel kel·kung kee nationality nationalité na·syo·na·lee·tay
behind derrière dair·ryair parle anglais? par long·glay date/place date/place dat/plas
Thank you. Merci. mair·see
You’re welcome. Je vous en prie. zher voo·zon pree
in front of devant der·von How do you say ... in French? of birth de naissance der nay·sons
De rien. (inf) der ree·en far (from) loin (de) lwun (der) Comment est-ce qu’on ko·mon es·kon sex/gender sexe seks
Excuse me. Excuse-moi. ek·skew·zay·mwa near (to) près (de) pray (der) dit ... en français? dee ... on fron·say passport passeport pas·por
Sorry. (forgive me) Pardon. par·don opposite en face de on fas der What does ... mean? visa visa vee·za
Que veut dire ...? ker ver deer ...
What’s your name? beach la plage la plazh I understand. QUESTION WORDS
Comment vous ko·mon voo·za·pay·lay voo castle le château ler sha·to Je comprends. zher kom·pron Who? Qui? kee
appelez-vous? (pol) island l’île leel I don’t understand. What? Quoi? kwa
Comment tu ko·mon tew ta·pel main square la place centrale la plas son·tral Je ne comprends pas. zher ner kom·pron pa What is it? Qu’est-ce que kes·ker
t’appelles? (inf) mosque la mosquée la mos·kay Could you write it down, please? c’est? say
My name is ... museum le musée ler mew·zay Est-ce que vous pouvez es·ker voo poo·vay When? Quand? kon
Je m’appelle ... zher ma·pel ... my hotel mon hôtel mon o·tel l’écrire? lay·kreer Where? Où? oo
236 F R E N C H • • S h o p p i n g & S e r v i c e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com F R E N C H • • T r a v e l w i t h C h i l d re n 237
Which? Quel/Quelle? kel in the morning du matin dew ma·tun The train has been delayed. I need a mechanic.
Why? Pourquoi? poor·kwa in the afternoon de l’après-midi der la·pray·mee·dee Le train est en retard. ler trun et on rer·tar J’ai besoin d’un zhay ber·zwun dun
How? Comment? ko·mon in the evening du soir dew swar The train has been cancelled. mécanicien. may·ka·nee·syun
today aujourd’hui o·zhoor·dwee Le train a été annulé. ler trun a ay·tay a·new·lay The car/motorbike has broken down (at ...)
SHOPPING & SERVICES tomorrow demain der·mun La voiture/moto est la vwa·tewr/mo·to ay
I’d like to buy ... yesterday hier yair the first le premier (m) ler prer·myay tombée en panne (à ...) tom·bay on pan (a ...)
Je voudrais acheter ... zher voo·dray ash·tay ... day jour zhoor la première (f) la prer·myair The car/motorbike won’t start.
How much is it? month mois mwa the last le dernier (m) ler dair·nyay La voiture/moto ne la vwa·tewr/mo·to ner
C’est combien? say kom·byun week semaine se·men la dernière (f) la dair·nyair veut pas démarrer. ver pa day·ma·ray
I don’t like it. year année a·nay platform le numéro ler new·may·ro I have a flat tyre.
Cela ne me plaît pas. ser·la ner mer play pa early tôt to number de quai der kay Mon pneu est à plat. mom pner ay ta pla
May I look at it? late en retard on rer·tar ticket office le guichet ler gee·shay I’ve run out of petrol.
Est-ce que je peux le voir? es·ker zher per ler vwar daily quotidien (m) ko·tee·dyun timetable l’horaire lo·rair Je suis en panne zher swee zon pan
I’m just looking. quotidienne (f) ko·tee·dyen train station la gare la gar d’essence. day·sons
Je regarde. zher rer·gard I had an accident.
It’s cheap. Monday lundi lun·dee Private Transport J'ai eu un accident. zhay ew un ak·see·don
Ce n’est pas cher. ser nay pa shair Tuesday mardi mar·dee I’d like to hire Je voudrais zher voo·dray
It’s too expensive. Wednesday mercredi mair·krer·dee a/an... louer ... loo·way ... TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN
C’est trop cher. say tro shair Thursday jeudi zher·dee car une voiture ewn vwa·tewr I need a/an ...
I’ll take it. Friday vendredi von·drer·dee 4WD un tout-terrain un too te·run J’ai besoin ... zhay ber·zwun ...
Je le prends. zher ler pron Saturday samedi sam·dee motorbike une moto ewn mo·to car baby seat
Sunday dimanche dee·monsh bicycle un vélo un vay·lo d’un siège-enfant dun syezh·on·fon
Can I pay by ...? Est-ce que je peux es·ker zher per child-minding service
payer avec ...? pay·yay a·vek ... January janvier zhon·vyay Is this the road to ...? d’une garderie dewn gar·dree
credit card ma carte de ma kart der February février fayv·ryay C'est la route pour ...? say la root poor ... children’s menu
crédit kray·dee March mars mars
Where’s a service station? d’un menu pour enfants dun mer·new poor on·fon
travellers des chèques day shek April avril a·vreel
Où est-ce qu'il y a oo es·keel ya disposable nappies/diapers
cheques de voyage der vwa·yazh May mai may
de couches-culottes der koosh·kew·lot
une station-service? ewn sta·syon·ser·vees
June juin zhwun
Please fill it up. infant milk formula
more plus plew July juillet zhwee·yay
Le plein, s’il vous plaît. ler plun seel voo play de lait maternisé de lay ma·ter·nee·zay
less moins mwa August août oot
smaller plus petit plew per·tee September septembre sep·tom·brer
I’d like ... litres. (English-speaking) babysitter
Je voudrais ... litres. zher voo·dray ... lee·trer d’une baby-sitter (qui dewn ba·bee·see·ter (kee
bigger plus grand plew gron October octobre ok·to·brer
November novembre no·vom·brer petrol/gas parle anglais) parl ong·glay)
Where can I Où est-ce qu’on oo es·kon December décembre day·som·brer essence ay·sons highchair
find ...? peut trouver ...? per troo·vay ... diesel d’une chaise haute dewn shay zot
I’m looking Je cherche ... zhe shersh ... TRANSPORT diesel dyay·zel potty
LANGUAGE
(How long) Can I park here? d’un pot de bébé dun po der bay·bay
LANGUAGE
for ... Public Transport
a bank une banque ewn bonk What time does À quelle heure a kel er (Combien de temps) (kom·byun der tom) stroller
the bazaar le bazar ler ba·zar ... leave/arrive? part/arrive ...? par/a·reev ... Est-ce que je peux es·ker zher per d’une poussette dewn poo·set
the ... embassy l’ambassade lam·ba·sahd boat le bateau ler ba·to stationner ici? sta·syo·nay ee·see?
de ... der ... bus le bus ler bews Where do I pay? Are children allowed?
the hospital l’hôpital lo·pee·tal plane l’avion la·vyon Où est-ce que je paie? oo es·ker zher pay? Les enfants sont permis? lay zon·fon son pair·mee
the market le marché ler mar·shay train le train ler trun
the police la police la po·lees
the post office le bureau de ler bew·ro der I’d like a ... Je voudrais zher voo·dray
poste post ticket. un billet ... un bee·yay ...
a public phone une cabine ewn ka·been one-way simple sum·pler
téléphonique tay·lay·fo·neek return aller et retour a·lay ay rer·toor
a public toilet les toilettes lay twa·let 1st class de première der prem·yair
classe klas
TIME & DATES 2nd class de deuxième der der·zyem
What time is it? Quelle heure est-il? kel er e til classe klas
It’s (8) o’clock. Il est (huit) heures. il e (weet) er Also available from Lonely Planet:
It’s half past ... Il est (...) heures il e (...) er I want to go to ... Middle East and French Phrasebooks
et demie. e day·mee Je voudrais aller à ... zher voo·dray a·lay a ...
238 G L O S S A R Y 239
hamada – plateaus of rock scoured by wind erosion Mozabites – Ibadi people who inhabit the M’Zab Valley
Glossary hammam – bathhouse

haram – prayer hall of mosque
High Plateaus – the 600m-long series of plateaus
msak – Tuareg for mountain; also adrar and tadrart
muezzin – man who calls the faithful to prayer from the
minaret
averaging 1200m above sea level, separating the Atlas muqarna – decorative plasterwork
Abbasids – Baghdad-based ruling dynasty cardo – main road running north–south through a Mountains of the coastal hinterland and the Saharan Atlas musée – museum
(AD 749–1258) of the Arab/Islamic empire Roman city hittists – literally those who hold up or hit the wall; M’Zab – region of five oases centred around Ghardaïa and
adrar – Tuareg for mountain; see also msak and tadrart casbah – fort, citadel; often also the administrative used to refer to young unemployed men in Algeria home to a community of Ibadi Muslims
Aghlabids – Arab dynasty based in Kairouan who ruled centre (also spelt qasba) Horse Period – period of Saharan rock art from
Tunisia (AD 800–909) cavea – seating area in a Roman theatre 1000 BC to AD 1 nargileh – water pipe or sheesha for smoking
agora – main public square of ancient Greek cities chergui – dry, easterly desert wind natatio – entrance hall to Roman baths complex
aïn – well or spring cipolin – white marble with veins of green or grey Ibadis – an offshoot of the Kharajite sect found only in Numidians – tribe from present-day Algeria, once
akerbai – loose-fitting Tuareg pants corniche – coastal road the villages of the M’Zab Valley in Algeria, Jerba, Zanzibar controlled Northern Tunisia; founders of the cities of Bulla
akhle – haphazard network of sand dunes without corsairs – pirate bands in the 15th century and beyond and in Oman Regia, Sicca (El-Kef ) and Thugga (Dougga)
discernible pattern croix d’Agadez – Tuareg cross of stylised silver with ibn – son of (also ben) nymphaeum – building with fountains; dedicated to
Al-Andalus – Muslim Spain and Portugal filigree designs Idrissids – Moroccan dynasty which established a stable nymphs
Algerian War of Independence – the 1954–62 war cryptae – Roman promenade or underground corridors state in northern Morocco in the 9th century
against the French that led to Algerian independence curia – municipal assembly in Ancient Rome iftar – breaking of the fast at sundown during Ramadan; oued – riverbed, often dry (sometimes wad or wadi)
Allah – God breakfast (also spelt ftur) except after rains
Almohads – puritanical Muslim group (1147–1269), dar – traditional town house ijtihad – individual interpretation of sacred texts and
originally Berber, that arose in response to the corrupt decumanus – main road running east–west through a traditions palaestra – exercise area in Roman times
Almoravid dynasty Roman city imam – man schooled in Islamic law; religious leader of palmeraie – palm grove
Almoravids – Muslim group (1054–1147) that ruled dey – the Ottoman army’s equivalent of a sergeant who Muslim community pasha – Ottoman governor appointed by the sultan in
Spain and the Maghreb assisted the pasha Constantinople
Amazigh – Berbers, especially from the Kabylie region divan – council of senior officers who advised the pasha janissaries – professional soldiers committed to a life of Pastoral Period – period of Saharan rock art from
aquifers – layers of rock holding underground water in Ottoman times military service who became rulers of Ottoman Libya 5500 BC to 2000 BC, also known as the Bovidian Period
ashaersh – Tuareg turban djedid – new peristyle – colonnade or portico of columns surrounding
assif – watercourse, river djellaba – popular flowing garment; men’s jellabas are Kabylie – Berber (Amazigh) region east of Algiers a building or courtyard
usually made from cotton or wool, women’s come in light Kharijites – puritanical Islamic sect, which broke away petroglyphs – millennia-old rock carvings
bab – gate or door synthetic fabrics from the mainstream Sunnis in AD 657 and inspired Berber Phoenicians – a great seafaring nation based in modern
bahr – ocean djemaa – mosque rebellions from the 8th to the 10th century Lebanon, which dominated trade in the Mediterranean in
Bani Hilal – tribes of Upper Egypt who invaded the khutba – sermon delivered by imam, especially at Friday the 1st millennium BC; founders of Carthage
Maghreb in the 11th century, causing great destruction and eid – feast (also spelled aïd) noon prayers pictographs – millennia-old rock paintings
Arabising the region erg – sand dunes or sand sea ksar – castle, palace, fortified stronghold pied-noir – literally ‘black foot’; name given to French
banu – see beni emir – Islamic ruler, military commander or governor settlers in Algeria and their descendants (also called
baraka – divine blessing or favour laconica – sweat baths in a Roman baths complex colons)
Barbary – European term used to describe the North Fatimids – Muslim dynasty (AD 909–1171) that rose to La Vache Qui Pleure – Crying Cows; famous rock-art Prophet (Mohammed), the – founder of Islam, who
African coast from the 16th to the 19th centuries prominence in the 10th century site near Djanet lived between AD 570 and AD 632
barchan – crescent-shaped sand dune FIS – Islamic Salvation Front (Front Islamique du Salut) Punic – ancient Phoenician people in North Africa
basilica – court or assembly building (Roman) or church who won the first round of elections in 1991 and were madhhab – school of Islamic law Punic Wars – three wars waged between Rome and
(Byzantine) then made illegal madrassa – school of the Quran and Islamic law Carthage in the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC, resulting in the
ben – son of (also ibn) foggara – underground channels leading to water Maghreb – (literally ‘west’) area covered by Morocco, destruction of Carthage by the Romans in 146 BC
beni – ‘sons of’, often precedes tribal name (also banu) forum – open space at the centre of Roman towns Algeria, Tunisia and Libya
Berbers – indigenous inhabitants of North Africa frigidarium – cold room in Roman baths complex Maliki – one of four major schools of Islamic thought and qahwa – thick Arabic coffee
bey – provincial governor in the Ottoman Empire funduq – hotel the predominant one in Algeria; preaches the primacy of qibla – the direction of Mecca, indicated by a mihrab
bordj – fort (literally ‘tower’) the Quran (as opposed to later teachings) Quran – sacred book of Islam
burnous – warm over-robe worn by men and women galabiyya – full-length loose-fitting robe worn by men maqbara – cemetery
gare routière – bus station marabout – holy man or saint; also often used to rai – world-famous Algerian music that originated in Oran
caliph – successor of Mohammed; ruler of the Islamic gare terminal – ferry terminal describe the mausoleums of these men Ramadan – ninth month of lunar Islamic calendar, dur-
GLOSSARY
GLOSSARY
world gîte – trekkers’ hostel, sometimes a homestay Merenids – Moroccan dynasty (1269–1465), responsible ing which Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset
Camel Period – period of Saharan rock art from 200 BC guelta – natural springs for the construction of many of Morocco’s medrassas ras – headland
to the present mihrab – vaulted niche in the wall of a mosque indicating Round Head Period – period of Saharan rock art from
capital – decorated top part of a column haram – literally ‘forbidden’; sometimes used to denote a direction of Mecca 8000 BC to 6000 BC
capitol – main temple of a Roman town, usually situated sacred or forbidden area, eg the prayer room of a mosque minbar – the pulpit that stands beside the mihrab in a Rustamids – Ibadi dynasty that ruled much of northern
in the forum haj – pilgrimage to Mecca; one of the five pillars of Islam mosque Algeria from Tahirt, from AD 761 to AD 909
240 G L O S S A R Y
sahn – courtyard of mosque taguelmoust – Tuareg veil

scaenae frons – façade behind the stage in Roman Tamashek – Tuareg language
theatre Tamazigh – Berber language
seif – Arabic for ‘sword’; also the name for sand dunes taxiphone – an inexpensive metered phone service
with long, sweeping ridges taxi brousse – shared taxi
serir – basins, formed by wadies, in which salt is left after taxi collectifs – shared taxi
water has evaporated Tell – narrow coastal strip and mountainous hinterland of
sharia – street or road northern Algeria
sheeshah – water pipe or nargileh for smoking tende – Tuareg dance
sheikh – tribal chief tepidarium – warm room in a Roman baths complex
sherif – descendant of the Prophet tifinagh – letters of the Tuareg alphabet
Shiites – one of two main Islamic sects, formed by those Tuareg – nomadic Berbers of the Sahara, also known as
who believed the true imams were descended from the the Blue Men because of their indigo-dyed robes
prophet’s son-in-law Ali (see also Sunnis)
Sidi – saint Umayyads – first great dynasty of Arab Muslim rulers
souq – market or bazaar (AD 661–750), based in Damascus
Sufi – follower of Islamic mystical orders that emphasise
dancing, chanting and trances in order to attain unity ville nouvelle – new city; town built by the French
with God alongside existing towns
Sunnis – one of two main Islamic sects, derived from
followers of the Umayyad caliphate (see also Shiites) wilaya – province
suras – verses or chapters in the Quran Wild Fauna Period – period of Saharan rock art from
10,000 BC to 6000 BC
taajeelah – Tuareg bread cooked under hot sand
tadrart – Tuareg for mountain zawiya – religious college or monastery
tagine – lamb dish with tomato and paprika zeriba – palm hut
GLOSSARY
249
Index
4WD trekking 74, 192, 198 dangers 112 books 56, see also literature
planning 70, 71 drinking 114 architecture 52
8 May 1945 129 food 114 culture 40, 41, 42, 43, 55, 78
history 110 environment 61, 62, 64
A tourist information 112 history 27, 29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 36
Abdelkader, Emir 30 travel to/from 115 Islam 26, 46, 47, 52
accommodation 196, see also travel within 115 Sahara 67, 78
individual locations Arabic language 227-34 border crossings 211-12
auberges 196 Arak 183 Borj Cheikh el-Hadj 160
INDEX
camping 68-9, 197 Arch of Caracalla 134 Bou Noura 162
hostels 197 Archaeological Museum 130 Boudiaf, President Mohammed 35, 110
hotels 197 archaeological sites, see rock art, Boumedienne, Colonel Houari 34
activities 197-8, see also 4WD Roman ruins Bouteflika, Abdelaziz 36
trekking, camel-trekking, hiking architecture 51-2 bridges
& other individual activities arts 51-8, see also individual arts Mellah Slimane Bridge 119
Adrar 167-9, 168 Assekrem 188-9, 5 Sidi M’Cid Bridge 119
Ahaggar National Park 64 Atakor 188 bus travel 214, 216
AIDS/HIV 221 Atlas Mountains 60-2, 162 business hours 198
air travel ATMs 203
airlines 208-9 auberges 196 C
carbon offset 209 camels 75, 8
to/from Algeria 208-11 B camel-trekking 75-6, 198, 8
within Algeria 213-14 Barbarossa 28, 29, 87, 112 camping 68-9, 197
Aïn Fouara 131 Bardo Museum of Prehistory & Camus, Albert 139
Aïn Sefra 162-4 Ethnography 96 car travel 214-16
Akba Aghoum pass 195 bargaining 205 desert driving course 74
Algiers 86-107, 88-9, 6 Basilica St Augustine 113-14 driving licences 215
accommodation 99-100 bathrooms 206 hire 215
activities 97 Batna 123-4 insurance 215
attractions 92-7 beaches road rules 216
Casbah 52, 90, 92, 93 Chataibi 115 road safety 200
dangers 92 Les Sables d’Or 107 carpets 159, 205
drinking 102 Oran 142 Fête du Tapis 158
emergency services 91 Palm-Beach Plage 107 Carthage 23-4
entertainment 102 Ras el-Hamra 115 casbahs
food 100-2 Béchar 164 Algiers 52, 90, 92, 93
history 87-90 ben Bella, Ahmed 34 Oran 139
information 91-2 Beni Abbès 166-7 Ouargla 177
medical services 91 Beni Isguen 160-1, 157 cash 203
money 91 Beni Ounif 164 Cathedral of St Louis 144
tours 99 Benjedid, Colonel Chadli cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals
travel to/from 102-3 34-5 cell phones 205-6
travel within 103-4 Berbers 24, 26-8, 40-1, 7 censorship 44
Ville Nouvelle 95 Bey’s Mosque 112 Chataibi 115
walking tour 97-9, 98 Bey’s Palace 142 Cherchell 106-7
Allouache, Merzak 54 bicycle travel, see cycling children, travel with 198
animals 62-3, 190 birds 63, 64 Christianity 113
Annaba 110-15, 111 black market 203 churches & cathedrals
accommodation 114 boat travel 212-13 Basilica St Augustine 113-14
attractions 112-14 Boha Mar 176 Cathedral of St Louis 144
250 Index (C-H) Index (H-M) 251
churches & cathedrals continued Dar Mustapha Pacha 99 football 43-4 High Plateaus (Hauts Plateaux) 60-2 insurance maps 69-71, 203
Church of Santa Cruz 142 Dar Zaid Aissa 99 fort of Santa Cruz 142 hiking 74-5 car 215 markets
Eglise Saint-Joseph 171 de Foucauld, Charles 171, 189 French language 234-7 planning 68 health 218-19 Marché à la Criée (Beni Isguen) 160
Notre Dame d’Afrique 95 de Gaulle, Charles 33 safety 73 travel 202 Marché Africaine (Tamanrasset) 185
cinema, see film disabilities, travellers with 206 G tours 75 internet access 202-3 Massif de l’Aurès 60
Circuit de Sebkha 170 Djanet 191-4, 192 Gaeseric 25-6 Hippo Regius 113 internet resources 15-16 Massif du Djurdjura 60
Cirta Museum 119 Djebel Murdjadjo 142 gardens historic buildings, see also palaces, environment 63 Mausoleum of Medracen 124-5
citadels Djemaa el-Djedid 93 Beni Isguen 161 monuments film 53 measures 196
Algiers 95 Djemaa el-Kebir 93 Jardin d’Essai 97 Borj Cheikh el-Hadj 160 history 24 Mechouar 149
Mechouar 149 Djemaa Ketchoua 94 gay travellers 202 Dar Aziza Bent El-Bey 94 rock art 83, 84 medical services 220, see also health
climate 14, 67-8, 199 Djemila 132-6, 134 geography 60-5 Dar Hassan Pacha 94 Islam 26-7, 40, 44-50 Algiers 91
history 81 accommodation 135-6 geology 81 Dar Mustapha Pacha 99 books 26, 46, 47, 52 Ghardaïa 156
conservation food 135-6 El-Ghessant 190 Dar Zaid Aissa 99 customs 47-8 Oran 141
environment 62-3, 64-5, 71-2 Roman ruins 133-5 Tassili du Hoggar 189 Grande Poste 97 Five Pillars of Islam 46 Tamanrasset 185
INDEX
INDEX
rock art 84-5 travel to/from 136-135 Tin Tarabine 190 Hôtel de l’Oasis Rouge 169 Mohammed 44-5 Tlemcen 148
Constantine 117-22, 118 drinks 201 Ghardaïa 20, 155-60, 157, 6 House of Bacchus 134 mosques 46-7 medinas, see casbahs
accommodation 120 wine 149 accommodation 158 Mausoleum of Medracen 124-5 Quran 45-6 Melika 161-2, 157
attractions 119-20 driving, see car travel activities 156-8 Musée National du Moudjahid Ramadan 46, 201 Mellah Slimane Bridge 119
food 122 dune skiing 198 attractions 156-8 96, 97 Sunni 49 metric conversions, see inside front cover
shopping 122 food 159 Temple of the Severan Family 135 itineraries 11, 17-21, see also planning mobile phones 205-6
tourist information 117 E information 155-6 historic squares best of the coast 17 Mohammed 44-5
travel to/from 122 earthquakes 200 medical services 156 place des Martyrs 167 eastern Algeria 20 money 14-16, 203-4, see also inside
travel within 122 Eberhardt, Isabelle 163 shopping 159 place des Sévères 134 Roman Algeria 21 front cover
walking tours 120, 121 economy 39-40 travel to/from 159 place du 1 Novembre 141 Sahara 18 monuments
consulates 200-1 Eglise Saint-Joseph 171 travel within 159-60 place Emir Abdelkader 148 Unesco World Heritage sites 21 Aïn Fouara 131
costs 14-16 El-Atteuf 162 Ghazaouet 151-2 place Mohamed Khemisti 148 western oases 19 Arch of Caracalla 134
Cours de la Révolution 112 electricity 196 golf 97 history 23-37 Makam Echahid 96
courses El-Ghessant 190 Grand Baths (Djemila) 134 Berber 27-8 J Monument to the Dead 120
desert driving 74 El-Goléa 171-2 Grand Erg Occidental 76, 153, 162-72, books 27, 29, 30, 31, 33, 34, Jabbaren 195 place des Sévères 134
Spanish 141 El-Oued 172-5, 173 154 36 Jardin d’Essai 97 mosques 46-7
credit cards 203 email services 202-3 Grand Erg Oriental 76, 153, 172-8, 154 Byzantine 25-6 jewellery 54-5 Bey’s Mosque 112
culture 22, 38-59, see also people, embassies 200-1 Grand Mosque (Constantine) 119 French 29-33 Dar Hassan Pacha 94
population emergencies, see inside front cover Grand Mosque (Tlemcen) 27, 148 internet resources 24 K Djemaa Ali Bitchine 93-4
Arabic 40 language 230, 236 Grande Poste (Algiers) 97 Islamic 26-7 Kafi, Ali 35 Djemaa el-Djedid 93
books 40, 41, 42, 43, 55, 78 environmental issues 62-4, 71-2, 209 Great Mosque (Ghardaïa) 157-8 Ottoman 28-9 Kheireddin, see Barbarossa Djemaa el-Kebir 93
Jewish 43 books 61, 62, 64 Guelma 116-17 Phoenician 23 Ksar Azellouaz 193 Djemaa Ketchoua 94
Spanish 146 internet resources 63 Roman 21, 24 Grand Mosque (Constantine) 119
customs regulations 199 Erg Admer 194 H Vandal 25-6 L Grand Mosque (Tlemcen) 27, 148
cycling 76, 197-8 Essendilène Canyon 194 Hammadids 27 hitching 216 La Source 166 Great Mosque (Ghardaïa) 157-8
events, see festivals Hassi Messaoud 178 hittistes 38 Lambèse-Tazoult 125 Mosque & Tomb of Sidi
D exchange rates, see inside front cover Hauts Plateaux (High Plateaus) 60-2 HIV/AIDS 221 language Boumediene 149
dangers 15, 36-7, 69, 72, 200 health 218-26, see also medical Hoggar Mountains 77 Algerian Arabic 227-34 Mosque of Emir Abdelkader 30, 120
crime 199-200 F services Hoggar National Park 179 French 234-7 Mosque of Sidi Bel Hassan 148
earthquakes 200 Fatimids 27 books 219-20 holidays 201, 202 Le Tafsit 186, 4 Mosque of Sidi Bou Merouane 112
hitching 216 festivals 16, 201 insurance 218-19 hostels 197 legal matters 203 Mosque of Sidi el-Houar 143
road safety 200 Festival National de la Chanson du internet resources 219 Hôtel de l’Oasis Rouge 169 lesbian travellers 202 Mosque of Sidi Salem 174
scorpions 62, 73, 190, 225 Rai d’Oran 144 planning 218 hotels 197 literature, see also books Pasha’s Mosque 142
snakes 62, 73, 225-6 Fête du Tapis 158 risks 72-3 House of Bacchus 134 Algerian 55-6 Sidi el-Hadj Ali 176
trouble spots 110, 181 Le Tafsit 186, 4 traditional medicine 226 travel 15, 35, 66-7 Souk el-Ghazal Mosque 119
Dar Aziza Bent El-Bey 94 S’bou de Timimoun 170 vaccinations 219, 224 I motorcycle travel 214-16
Dar Hassan Pacha 94 Sebiba 193 women’s 226 Ibadis 48 M mountains
film 16, 53-4 hepatitis 221 Illizi 191 Maison de la Culture 186 Hoggar Mountains 77
000 Map pages Five Pillars of Islam 46 hermitages immigration 208, 211, 224 Makam Echahid 96 Massif de l’Aurès 60
000 Photograph pages FLN (National Liberation Front) 32-4 Assekrem 188-9 In Guezzam 190 malaria 222-3 Massif du Djurdjura 60
food 59, 201 Pères Blancs 158 In Salah 181-2, 182 Mansourah 150 Saharan Atlas Mountains 60-2, 162
252 Index (M-S) Index (S-Z) 253
Mozabites 160 Taghit 165 postal services 204 Grand Erg Oriental 76, 153, 172-8, Tassili d’Immidir 182-3 trekking, see hiking, 4WD trekking,
Musée Communale 171 Timimoun 169, 5 pottery 205 154 Tassili du Hoggar 189-90 camel-trekking
Musée des Beaux Arts 97 oil 39-40 In Salah 181 Tassili N’Ajjer 77-8 Tuareg 32, 41-2, 68, 77, 179, 4, 7
Musée du Hoggar 185-6 opening hours 198 Q S’bou de Timimoun 170 Tassili N’Ajjer National Park 20, 21, 64, jewellery 54-5
Musée du l’OPNA 185 Oran 139-46, 140 Quran 45-6 scorpions 62, 73, 190, 225 77-8, 83-4, 190-1, 194-5, 5 music 57-8
Musée du Sahara 177 accommodation 144 Sebiba 193 telephone services 205-6 turbans 68
Musée du Tassili 192 attractions 141 R Sebkha Circuit 170 television 44, 196 TV 44, 196
Musée National Ahmed Zabana 142 entertainment 145 radio 44, 196 security, see dangers Tell region 60
Musée National du Moudjahid 96, 97 festivals 144 Rai 57 Sefar 195 Temacine 176 U
museums, see also historic buildings food 144-5 Ramadan 46, 201 Sétif 128-32, 130 Temple of the Severan Unesco World Heritage sites 21, 155
Archaeological Museum 130 history 139 Ras el-Hamra 115 8 May 1945 129 Family 135 Al-Qal’a of Beni Hammad 21
Bardo Museum of Prehistory & information 141 Red Beard, see Barbarossa accommodation 131 theft 199-200 Casbah (Algiers) 52, 90, 92, 93
Ethnography 96 medical services 141 religion 44-50 attractions 130-1 Tiddis 122-3 Djemila 132
Cirta Museum 119 shopping 145 Christianity 49 food 131-2 Tim Ras 194 M’Zab Valley 155, 7
INDEX
INDEX
Maison de la Culture 186 travel to/from 145-6 Islam 44-50 tourist information 129 time 206 Tassili N’Ajjer National Park 20, 21,
Musée Communale 171 travel within 146 responsible travel 71-2 travel to/from 132 Timenzouzine 195 64, 77-8, 83-4, 190-1, 194-5, 5
Musée des Beaux Arts 97 walking tour 142-4, 143 rock art 80-5, 166, 190-1, 194-5, 5 travel within 132 Timgad 126-8, 126, 8 Timgad 126, 8
Musée du Hoggar 185-6 Ouargla 176-8 carvings 81-3 shopping 204-5 Timimoun 169-71, 5 Tipaza 104
Musée du l’OPNA 185 conservation 82, 84 Sidi Boumediene 149 Tin Tarabine 190
Musée du Sahara 177 P discovery 80-1 Sidi el-Hadj Ali 176 Tinakachaker 190 V
Musée du Tassili 192 painting 58-9 history 80, 81 Sidi M’Cid Bridge 119 Tipaza 104-6 vacations 201, 202
Musée National Ahmed Zabana 142 palaces internet resources 83, 84 silver jewellery 54-5 Tlemcen 146-51, 147 Valley of the Cypresses 195
Museum of Popular Arts & Bey’s Palace 142 locations 83-4 snakes 62, 73, 225-6 accommodation 150 vegetarian travellers 59
Traditions 94 Palace of Ahmed Bey 119 paintings 81-3 soccer 43-4 attractions 148 video 204
National Museum of Antiquities 96 Palais des Raïs 95 periods 83 solo travellers 205 medical services 148 visas 206-7, see also passports
Tlemcen Museum 149 palmeraies Tassili N’Ajjer National Park 20, Souk el-Ghazal Mosque 119 tourist information 148
music 16, 56-8 Beni Isugen 161 21, 64, 77-8, 83-4, 190-1, sports 43-4 Tlemcen Museum 149 W
internet resources 56 Timimoun 170, 5 194-5, 5 Sufism 49 toilets 206 walking, see hiking
Kabylie 56 Pasha’s Mosque 142 Tinakachaker 190 swimming 97, 142, 151, see also Touggourt 175-6 walking tours
Rai 57 passports 208, see also visas rock-climbing 198 beaches tourist information 206 Algiers 97-9, 98
Tuareg 57-8 people, see also culture, population Roman ruins 13, 21 tours 78-9, 217 Constantine 120, 121
M’Zab Valley 155-62, 7 Arabs 40 Djemila 133-5 T Algiers 99 Oran 142-4, 143
Berbers 24, 26-7, 27-8, 40-1, 7 Guelma 116 Tagharghart 194 camel 76 War of Independence 32-4, 129
N Jews 43 Hippo Regius 113-15 Taghit 165 hiking 75 wars 35-6
Napoleon III 31 Mozabites 160 Timgad 126-8, 8 Tamanrasset 180-1, 183-9, 184 train travel 217 water 65
National Liberation Front (FLN) 32-4 pieds-noirs 42-3 Tipaza 104 accommodation 186-7 Trans-Saharan Highway 76-7 watersports 198, see also beaches,
National Museum of Antiquities 96 Tuareg 32, 41-2, 68, 77, 179, 4, 7 Route du Hoggar 180-90 activities 185-6 travel to/from Algeria 208-13 swimming
national parks 63-4 Pères Blancs 158 Route du Tassili N’Ajjer 190-5 attractions 185-6 air 208-11 weather 14, 67-8, 199
Ahaggar National Park 64 phones 205-6 Rustamid 27 festivals 186 land 211-12 websites, see internet
Hoggar National Park 179 photography 204 food 187 sea 212-13 resources
Tassili N’Ajjer National Park 20, 21, pieds-noirs 42-3 S history 183 travel within Algeria 213-17 weights 196
64, 77-8, 83-4, 190-1, 194-5, 5 pirates 29, 93 Sahara 61-2, 180 medical services 185 air 213-14 wildlife 62-3, 190
newspapers 196 place des Martyrs 167 books 67, 78 shopping 187 bus 214 wine 149
Notre Dame d’Afrique 95 place des Sévères 134 climate 23, 81 tourist information 185 car 214-16 women in Algeria 50-1
place du 1 Novembre 141 environment 67 tours 185 hitching 216 women travellers 207
O place Emir Abdelkader 148 literature 66-7 travel to/from 187-8 local transport 216 health 226
oasis towns 13, 19 place Mohamed Khemisti 148 travel to 66 Tamdjert 191 motorcycle 214-16 world time zones 254-5
Beni Abbès 166 planning 14-16, 66, see also itineraries travel within 74-9 Tamelhat 176 shared taxi 216-17
El-Goléa 171-2 health 218 Saharan Atlas Mountains 60-2, 162 Tamrit 195 tours 217 Z
El-Oued 172-5 holidays 202 St Augustine 113 Tan Zoumaitek 195 train 217 Zéroual, President Liamine 36
M’Zab Valley 155-62, 7 security 72, 110, 181 sand dunes 61, 198 Tankena 191 travellers cheques 204 Zirids 27
transport 74 Djanet 194
000 Map pages plants 63 Erg Admer 194
000 Photograph pages population 22, see also culture, Grand Erg Occidental 76, 153,
people 162-72, 154
INDEX 254

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What are some of the major Roman ruins mentioned in the document?

What are some of the major Roman ruins mentioned in the document?

What are some of the major attractions in Algiers mentioned in the document?

What are some of the major attractions in Algiers mentioned in the document?

© Lonely Planet Publications

Destination Algeria 13 Orientation

Getting Started 14 Sights

Environment 60 Northeast Algeria 108

Taghit 165 Time 206 Tours 217

You can buy, download and

Destination Algeria this guidebook.

Algeria is the most fascinating country you never thought of visiting.

Getting Started OFF LIMITS

EASTERN TRAILS Two to Three Weeks/Ghardaïa to Tassili N’Ajjer National Park

The Coordinating Author’s Favourite Trip

NANA LUCKHAM Ghardaïa, Tamanrasset, Directory & Transport

LONELY PLANET AUTHORS

ANTHONY SATTIN Algiers, Northeast & Northwest Algeria

You can buy, download and

THE GREEN SAHARA

THE PHOENICIAN FOOTHOLD

TIMELINE 200,000 BC 15,000–10,000 BC

4500–3000 BC 1000 BC 814 BC 263–241 BC

148 BC 146 BC 46 BC Mid-2nd century AD

Another Moroccan movement, ‘those who proclaim the unity of God’

393–430 430 533 642

761–909 972–1148 11th century 1529

With the countryside in turmoil, hundreds of thousands of colons fled

1671 1791 1830 1871

1881 1947 1954–62 25 September 1962

26 December 1991 1992 1994–2002 September 2005

of status (some are also used in weddings by women); and ornamental

TOP FIVE CONTEMPORARY ALGERIAN NOVELS RAI MUSIC Jane Cornwell

Travelling in the Sahara SAHARA STATS

Overland: A Route and Planning Guide by Chris Scott. It includes

The overwhelming benefit of exploring the Sahara on foot is that it’s

TYPES OF EXPEDITION THE GREAT CARAVANS OF THE SAHARA

in the world. Home to more than 15,000 petroglyphs and pictographs

ALGIERS & AROUND

Algiers & Around x021 / pop 3.3 million

To Auberge du Moulin; Dar MEDITERRANEAN

Centre Culturel Français...............1 D5 Notre Dame d'Afrique;

Touring Voyages Algérie........... 15 D4 Casbah 20

Central Touring Hôtel................ 23 D4 Our

45 Port Said Lift

st Brasserie des Facultés.................35 D6

e 35 Les Puits d'Amour......................41 C8

Pl Restaurant le Faubourg............(see 44)

Audin Restaurant Yulmaz.....................44 C7

'A i n Sa Y La rice DRINKING

Zeboudia lah Ave fa

Cinéma Algeria .........................48 C7

Cinématheque Algérienne ........ 49 D5

ra ana Air Algérie................................. 51 C6

Coeur Gare Maritime Ferry Terminal.....55 E4

e 47 2 56 Gare Routiére Bus Station.......... 56 D8

To Bar Dey; Bardo Museum; Love Tour................................(see 11)

Vincent To Airport; Jardin d'Essai; Makam

Danish Embassy; Dar Diaf; rof