Arvind Textiles Internship Report PDF
Arvind Textiles Internship Report PDF
Arvind Textiles Internship Report PDF
DECLARATION
We Sakshi kaul, Sohini Ali and Sunistha Singh hereby declare that the internship
project report titled “Summer Textile Internship”, submitted towards the
fulfillment of two weeks internship is our original work and no part of the project
has been copied from any other reports or any other work carried by someone else
which has been submitted for any other degree or award. However, any material
taken from any other published source has been suitably referred and
acknowledged at various spaces.
(__________________)
This is to certify that the Internship Project titled “Summer Textile Internship”,
by Sakshi Kaul, Sohini Ali and Sunistha Singh is their original work under my
guidance and the results are based on the research done by them.
(___________________)
DATE:
PLACE:
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Subhalakshmi Kropi for her encouragement and moral support in organizing our
work and giving us valuable information for making it presentable.
We are also thankful to Ms. Shivangi Seth (Human Resource Department) for
providing us the details of conducting the research from its inception.
We will be failing in our duty if we do not mention the name of our Director Prof.
V Shivalingam and other faculty members for their help in our Internship Project.
Lastly, we are also obliged to our family and friends for providing us valuable
suggestions.
1. INTRODUCTION
The textile industry is a term used for industries primarily concerned with the
design or manufacture of clothing as well as the distribution and use of textiles.
Textile is a general term applied to any manufacture from fibers, filaments, or
yarns characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length to thickness.
Textile Industry is unique in the terms that it is an independent industry, from the
basic requirement of raw materials to the final products, with huge value-addition
at every stage of processing.
• MARKET SIZE
India's share of global textile exports is expected to increase from the
Current 4% to around 7% over the next three-years
• SCOPE OF RIVALRY
Raymond India
Welspun India ltd
Alok Industries
Gokaldas Exports
Arvee Industries
Fig 1.1. Arvind ltd. Revenue
Bharat Vijay mills
composition
The objective of our textile internship at Arvind Limited was to understand the
concept of spun yarn production, grey fabric production, dyeing, printing and
finishing of fabric, textile testing and their quality aspects both technical as well as
for commercial purposes.
Our first step was to learn about the profile of the company and their basic
dealings. We further dealt with the way the company handles the raw material and
sends it through to subsequent stages of manufacturing. We were to learn about the
various stages in the entire process of textile manufacturing, the importance of
each of these stages, the machinery features, machine and material process
parameters available in detail in the areas as mentioned below.
We summarize some of the major concepts that we were to observe and understand
during our internship:
Spinning Section
Weaving Section
Dyeing Section
Environmental Factors
The Arvind Ltd. was set up with the pioneering effort of the Lalbhai brothers in
1931. With the best of technology and business acumen, Arvind has become a true
Indian multinational, having chosen to invest strategically, where demand has been
high and quality required has been superlative. The Arvind Mills Limited is the
flagship company of Rs.20 billion (US$ 500 million). Arvind Mills has set the pace
for changing global customer demands for textiles and has focused its attention on
selection of core products.
Fore vision and Technology has made Arvind one of the top three producers of
Denim in the world, and the most diversified conglomerates in the world. Arvind is
already making its presence felt in Shirting’s, Knits and Khakis fabrics apart from
being all set to create ripples in the ready to wear Garments world over.
Arvind’s knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 10,000 tons. Apart
from the basic knitting capabilities, Arvind has mastered specialty knitting
techniques such as yarn-dyed auto stripers, jacquards, and stretch fabric. The knits
vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 6500 tons per annum and yarn dyeing
capacity of 3500 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and
open-width fabric and offer specialty finishes like mercerization, singing and
various forms of brushing and peaching. The department also boasts of a state-of-
the art print shop equipped with fully automatic rotary screen printing technique.
The underlying theme running across the broad spectrum of all business activities
at Arvind is that of enhancing lifestyles of people, across all diversities and
demographics. To serve that end, the corporate vision for Arvind states:
‘We will enable people to experience a better quality of life by providing
enriching and inspiring lifestyle solutions’.
1.5.2. MILESTONES
1931 -The inception of Arvind Mills at the hands of three brothers – Kastur bhai,
Narottam bhai and Chimanbhai Lalbhai.
1934 - Arvind establishes itself amongst the foremost textile units in the country.
1980 - Arvind records highest levels of profitability. The new strategy – ‘Reno
vision’, points at changing the business focus from local to global, towards a high-
quality premium niche market.
1987-88 - Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual focus - Denim
for leisure and Denim for fashion wear.
1991 - Arvind emerges as the third largest manufacturer of denim in the world.
1997 - India’s largest state-of-the-art facility for shirting, gabardine and knits is set
up at Santej.
2005 - Arvind creates a unique one-stop shop service on a global scale, offering
garment packages to reputed national and international customers.
2007 - Arvind expands its presence in the brands and retail segment by establishing
Mega Mart – One of India’s largest value retail chains.
2010 - Arvind launches The Arvind Store, a concept putting the company’s best
fabrics, brands and bespoke styling and tailoring solutions under one roof.
2012 – Joint venture with PD Group, Germany, for manufacture of glass fabrics.
2014 – Joint venture with PVH Corp for Calvin Klein Businesses in India.
2014 – Joint venture with OG Corp, Japan, for manufacture and sale of non-woven
fabrics, project being spearheaded by Dr. Kunal Shah.
2014 – Forayed into the E-commerce segment with custom clothing brand
'Creyate'.
Arvind has a strong focus on Research and Development for process improvement,
cost reduction and new product development. This is evident in the fact that Arvind
continuously modifies its production process to enhance flexibility on the use of
various types and quality of cotton.
State-of-the-art technology and equipment have made Arvind one of the leading
producers of denim in the world. This cutting edge position comes to Arvind
courtesy technologies such as Open-end Spinning, Foam Finishing, Mercerizing,
Slasher-dyeing, Rope-dyeing, Air-Jet, Projectile and Wet Finishing. It’s only
natural that Arvind quality fabrics are in high demand in the markets of Europe,
US, West Asia, the Far East and Asia Pacific.
Fig. 1.3
ARVIND LIMITED
Administratio Order
Productio
n and Management &
The customer and the marketing department communicate with each other. The
marketing department then talks with Product Development Group (PDG) and then
communicates the terms discussed to the Quality Assurance and Product Planning
and Control (PPC) who decide on the various guidelines and the time required to
execute the order. These guidelines are then communicated to the plant head who
conveys them to the various departments according to the guidelines and
instructions. The fabric is then sent to the fabric inspection and then to the Central
Quality Assurance, who sends it to folding and dispatch from where other financial
activities follow.
1.7. DENIM
The late 1980’s saw Arvind pioneer
the manufacture of denim in India.
Today with an installed capacity of
over 110 million meters per annum,
Arvind is a leading producer of denim
worldwide. Design, Innovations and
Sustainability have been their core
competency and have played a key
role in their success. The use of
sophisticated ultramodern technology
under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver
many firsts in the Fig 1.3
Fig international markets. All their products are designed and
1.5 of expert design inputs coming from their designers based out
modeled on the basis
of India, Japan, Italy and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with
the hallmark of distinctiveness and quality.
Some Examples:
The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX
100, GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Our labs are certified by NABL (ISO
17025 certification) and customers like Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler etc.
1.8. KNITS
Arvind’s knits department has an
annual knitting capacity of 5,000
tons. The knits vertical has a fabric
dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per
annum and yarn dyeing capacity of
1800 tons per annum. It has the
ability to process both tubular and open-width fabrics and
Figoffers
1.6 specialty finishes
like mercerization, singeing and various forms of brushing and peaching.
Basic knits:
Fig 1.7
producing a total of 65 million
meters per annum of Shirting and bottom weight fabrics. This capacity is set to
increase reaching a total of 84 million meters by the next financial year.
Their product range is certified by Oekotex, their processes are certified by GOTS
for producing Organic products, they are certified producers of Lycra and Teflon
based varieties, while their laboratory is accredited by Marks and Spencers, Next,
Gap Inc., Levi's, DuPont and INVISTA.
Fig 1.9
1.10. Customers
Popular Premium
Ruf & Tuf USPA
New Port University Arrow
Izod
Premium
Lee
Wrangler
Usually the lead time for any particular order is 50 to 55 days, including all quality
checks inspection etc.
Finishing processes- 1 day for each process, if not covered in the integrated
finish processing machine
Inspection 2 to 3 days
Washing 2 to 3 days
100 kilo cotton = 88 kilo of yarn(for combed yarn) (75% yarn realisation)
SPINNING SECTION
2. SPINNING SECTION
“To produce quality yarns for world class shirtings with optimum cost within
stipulated time frame through continuous improvement.”
In Arvind open end spinning process is carried out. They have two separate lines of
manufacturing, for cotton and synthetic fibers. Each line has the same machines in
the same amount.
2.2.1. STORAGE
Bales are bought and stored into the cotton godown at the shirting section.
Pakistan cotton
American cotton
Recycle cotton
Australian ELS
sliver
Pre-opening
Pre-cleaning
Mixing or Blending
Fine Opening
2-4% of the fibre is removed in the blow room section as waste. Feeding is done by
the lattice feeding system in the blow room. Humidity in the blow room should be
around R.H. – 65% to 75%.
VARIATION:
Standard intra lap variation = 1.0%.
If the variation is more than 1.0% the lap shall be rejected.
Lap Parameters:
Count Weight Length
8s - 10s 20.0 kg 36 yards
10s – 12s 16.5 kg 30 yards
15s – 20s 20.5 kg 38 yards
24s 20.0 kg 40 yards
2.3.1. PRE-OPENING
Machine used:
GBR-II
Make- Trutzschler (Germany)
400 kg/hour
2.3.2. PRE-CLEANING
Machine used:
Axiflow Cleaner
Model: 52-2502
Since removing finer trash particles is difficult, seeds and bigger trash
particles should not be broken.
The fibre treatment in this machine is very gentle because the fibres are not
gripped by the feed roller during beating.
Fibre tufts treated by the pin beater when it is carried by air medium
Mostly all heavy seeds( full seeds) fall in this machine without any problem
Beater speed, air velocity through the machine, grid bar setting and gap
between grid bars will affect the cleaning efficiency
Higher the cleaning efficiency, higher the good fibre loss, higher the nep
generation and higher the fibre rupture
Fig.
2.2
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Cotton is passed from bales and then to apron. Apron moves cotton to blending
apron. Blending apron has sharp spikes the raise cotton until part of it is knocked
off by the roll. Some of the cotton stays on apron. The cotton knocked back by roll
and continues to chum and blend until picked up again by apron. Another roll strips
off cotton that was not knocked back by previous roll. Cotton falls on conveyor
belt and is carried to next process. It is necessary so as to obtain uniformity of fiber
quality.
Model BDT/019/2300
Bale Layout BOTH SIDES (2 ROWS)
No Of Bales 50-60
Weight Of Bales 110-167 kgs
Mode Of Bale Laying MANUAL
Material In Process COTTON WITH IMPURITIES
With the latest automatic bale opening machines, the tuft size can be as
small as 50 to 100 grams without rupturing the fibres.
It is better to use this machine with one mixing or maximum two mixing
at the same.
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If the production per feeding machine is less than 150 kgs, then four
mixings can be recommended.
Lint cotton falls on apron and passes between feeder rolls to beater cylinder.
The rapidly whirling beater blades take off small tufts of cotton, knock out trash,
and loosen up the mass. The two screen rolls are made of screen material and air is
sucked out of them by fan. This draws the cotton from beater and condenses it on
the surface of the screen rolls from which it is taken and passed on by the small
rolls.
Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash. Conveyor belt passes cotton
to another type of beater. From beater the
cotton passes to a conveyor and is carried
to hopper. The fiber is mixed and passed
to an opener, cylinders with protruding
fingers open up the limp and free the trash.
The kind and number of cylinders or
beaters, employed depend upon the type of
cotton that is being processed. As the
cotton is opened, trash falls through a
Fig.
series of grid bars. 2.3
Model No GBR
Opening Speed 400 Kg/Hr
Tuft Size 50-100 gms
Opening Roller Speed 1500-1800 rpm
No. Of Mixings 2
No. Of Chambers 8
Power Consumption 4.95 W
Fig.
Summer Textile Internship
STEPS: The lap from pucker unrolls and feed roll passes cotton licker in roll
(covered with saw toothed wire).The licker in roll passes fiber against cleaner bars
and gives it up to large cylinder which passes between the thousands of fine wires
on surface of cylinder and on flats. The
cotton follows large cylinder to doffer
cylinder, which remove lint from large
cylinder. The doffer comb vibrates against
doffer cylinder and takes lint off in a filmy
web that passes through condenser rolls,
coiler head, and then into can. The sliver may
be passed from one can to combing for
further removal of foreign matter and
parallelization of fiber or directly to drawing.
Fig.
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS 2.5
Make TRUTZSCHLER
Model DK 803
No Of Machines 14
Card Cleaning Efficiency 62-67%
Temperature 33.3 C
Humidity 56.5%
Pressure 325 Pascal
Production 80 Kgs/Hr
Front Delivery Speed 210.240 Min
Fig. 2.7
Summer Textile Internship
STEPS: Her six cans that were filled at cards feed each drawing from delivery.
The spoons are connected so that if any one of the six slivers from can should
break, the machine automatically stops. This prevents making uneven yarn later.
Each of four set of rolls runs successively faster than preceding set. The last set
runs approximately six times as the first set; consequently, sliver coming out is the
same size as each one of six going in. but is attenuated to six times the length per
minute. The sliver is neatly coiled again in roving can by coiler head. The sliver is
now much more uniform and fibers much more nearly parallel. The sliver is now
ready for roving frames.
Fig. 2.8
Summer Textile Internship
Fig. 2.7
The combing process forms a comb sliver made of the longest fibers, which, in
turn, produces a smoother and more even yarn. This operation as much as 25%
of the original card sliver; thus almost one fourth of the raw cotton becomes
waste. The combing process, therefore, is identified with consumer goods of
better quality. Since long-staple yarns produce stronger, smoother, and more
serviceable fabrics, quality cotton goods carry labels indicating that they are
made from combed yarns or combed yarns.
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS:
Make LAKSHMI
Model No LK69
Production Capacity 2.1 TONS/DAY
Speed 600 M
STEPS: The principle of spinning is same as that used in roving except that the
operation is more refined and a ring and traveler are used instead of the flyer. From
bobbin roving is fed
Fig.between
2.9 set of drafting rolls to draw strand down to its final
desired size. The spindle turns bobbin at a constant speed. The front set of rolls is
adjusted to deliver yarn at a speed sufficient to insert desired mount of twist as
strand moves along. The traveler glides freely around ring. The tension caused by
drag of traveler causes yarn to wind on bobbin at same rate of speed as it delivered
by rolls.
Fig. 2.10
Summer Textile Internship
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS:
Make ZINSER
Model 351
Application Area STAPLE FIBRES UPTO
60mm
Count Range 167 – 4 TEX
Twist Range 100-3500 t/M
No Of Spindles 240-1680
Spindles Speed 25000 rpm
Ring Diameter 36-54m
In open end spinning, the fibre supply is reduced, as far as possible, to individual
fibres, which are then carried forward on an air-stream as free fibres. This permits
internal stresses to be relaxed & gives rise to the term “free fibre spinning”. These
fibres are then progressively attached to the tail or “open end” of already formed
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rotating yarn. This enables twist to be imparted by rotation of the yarn end. Thus
the continuously formed yarn has
only to be withdrawn & taken up
on a cross-wound package.
2.10.1. EFFICIENCY IN
SPINNING
DEPARTMENT:
Fig. 2.11
Comber: 93%
Carding: 87%
2.11. WINDING
Several defects in the yarn lead to a decrease in the production, and slows down
the manufacturing process, since these defects have to be remedied during
production. These defects are length variation, thick and thin, moiré and count
variation.
WEAVING SECTION
3. WEAVING SECTION
the reed passes a hooked needle through the heald eyes and drop wires. The needle
hook is then exposed to the second operator on the other side of the frame; who
selects the correct yarn in its proper order and puts it on the hook so that when the
needle is pulled, the yarn is threaded through the two loom parts. This process is
carried out in an area right behind the main loom shed.
Fig. 3.2
reed is like a comb
and its purpose is to
control the
separation of the
Fig. 3.2
warp threads. Once the denting is complete, the beam is loaded as per the
requirement. Once the already loaded warp beam is exhausted, the new one can be
tied on to it by the means of manual knotting. After this the process of weaving can
be resumed in about 2 hours.
The Arvind Techno Park weaving unit at Santej houses 48 weaving looms, evenly
distributed between two makes that is 24 of each, Toyota E Shed and Picanol
Gammax. Both the looms can be bifurcated further on the basis of the number of
heald frames and/or colored wefts which they can accommodate. Listed below is
the information regarding the looms on the basis of their types and sub-types.
No of Looms Type
24 Toyota E Shed (Airjet Looms)
24 PicanolGammax (Rapier Looms)
3.2.2. Picanol
Gammax
PicanolGamMax is a double
rapier loom. It is equipped
with a weft presenter. The
color and weave pattern are
controlled by a
microprocessor. A light weight
gripper carries the weft yarn
from one selvedge to another
using free flight system. The loom makes use ofFig.
electronic selvedge
3.5 Picanol system.
Gammax
Listed below are the specifications of both the looms against the respective
parameters.
TOYOTA E SHED
PICANOL GAMMAX
WEAVING SECTION
4. WEAVING PREPARATORY
Re-Winding
The final cones from spinning are used to rewind the yarns on perfora ted bobbins
to form soft cheeses that will be sent for winding. According to number of
packages required for sectional warping. The Murata rewinding machines have a
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capacity of 50 spindles and they are 10 in total. 2-3 Local Mahavir machines can
hold 120 spindles at once. A constant length of yarn is wound on all packages.
Fig. 4.1
The pattern for a fabric requires yarn of specific length, number and color. These
are wound on the warp beam in this section. A creel of capacity 720 cones holds
the yarns. These are drawn
through a leasing reed and
warping reed and the emerging
pattern wound on warping drum
and finally on warping beam.
There are 8 rows on the creel,
which holds the yarns according
Fig. 4.2
to the warp pattern.
For shirting, the pattern is placed alternately, i.e. 13572468 upwards. Each row is
used as layer for leasing. 7 lease are introduced in the beginning of every section
and a 50% lease towards the end. The 7 lease help in sizing to separate layers in
order prevent sticking together. 50% leasing helps in drawing.
Maker VAMATEX BENNINGER
Fig. 4.2 Model No. VM 108 BEN-ERGOTRONIC
Drum Width 2500mm 2500mm
Maximum Warping Speed 800m/min 800m/min
Maximum Beaming Speed 150m/min 150m/min
For precise control high speed sensor are provided.
4.2.1. Stop motion
Stop motion for Picanol Gammax Rapier looms
The designing of the fabric for in-house brands is carried out by the Textile Design
Department. Henceforth, all the fabrics follow a common route namely, Pre
Production Planning.
Ear plugs: Aloom shed is bound to have extremely high levels of noise due
to the constant beat-up motion, clanking of the heald shafts, shuttle (for
Half sleeve clothes: Working with a loom involves a lot of activity near the
weft presenters warp thread, machine parts etc. Therefore it is advisable to
wear half sleeved clothes and avoid any sort of entanglements and accidents,
in extension.
Cover moving machine parts: As far as possible, it is ensured that all the
moving machine parts are covered. Such as protection guard over take-up
rollers in case of a Picanol Gammax loom.
In weaving room, relative humidity, has a great impact on the performance of the
looms. The optimal level of temperature and
humidity over the machines, i.e. the warp, is
generally not reached, because the sources
of heat within the weaving machine disturb
the climatic condition. Numerous yarn
breaks are caused by the dust, lint and fiber
Fig. 4.3 Removal of extra
accumulation.
PROCESSING SECTION
5. PROCESSING UNIT
5.1. OBJECTIVE
The aim of preparatory wet processing is to treat the goods by standard procedures
so that they are brought to a state in which they can be dyed, printed and finished
without showing any fault on fabric.
In Arvind mills Grey fabric inspection is done through the 4 point system.
Fig. 5.1
Fig. 5.2
OTHER INFORMATION
There are 8 inspection machines and total 3500 metre of fabric is inspected on one
machine in one day. That means total 28 thousand of fabric is inspected in one day.
Also efficiency of inspection system is 90%.
5.3. MENDING
The fabric is bought from the storage area for mending. After mending, the fabric
is sent back to the storage area and then sent for re-checking. After mending of the
fabric the fabric is sent forbatching. There are 3 mending machines in the industry.
5.4. BATCHING
After mending, fabric is sewn end to
end and then batched. Spec sheets are
sent to the batching in charge, wherein
it is mentioned how many meters of
what fabric needs to be rolled together
in one package. After batching, the
fabric is sent for singeing.
Fig. 5.4
5.5. SINGEING
Singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface
by burning off projecting fibres, yarn ends, and fuzz. This is accomplished by
passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed
sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the
yarn or fabric.
CNG is used for burning the protruding fibres, yarn ends and fuzz.
A roller with brushes removes the fibres on selvedge and small protruding
fibres. A suction pump takes these fibres and pumps them into an air bag.
This bag needs to be changed every week.
There are two burners, the machine operates at 10000c and works at 1 m/s.
Special rubberized rollers are used for quenching. Fabric takes 4 seconds to
traverse from burners to these quenching rollers. Till this time the
temperature of the fabric lowers down to 700 C. These rollers further cool
the cellulosic fibre.
5.6. DESIZING
Desizing is done for the fabrics made from cotton or blends, the warp threads are
coated with an adhesive substance known as 'size‘ to prevent the threads breaking
during weaving. Although many different compounds have been used to size
fabrics, starch and its derivatives have been the most common sizing agent. After
weaving, the size must be removed again in order to prepare the fabric for dyeing
and finishing.
This process (desizing) must be carried out by treating the fabric with chemicals
such as acids, alkali or oxidising agents. However starch breaking enzymes
(amylases) are preferred for desizing due to their high efficiency and specific
action. Amylases bring about complete removal of the size without any harmful
effects on the fabric. Another benefit of enzymes compared to strong chemicals
mentioned above is that enzymes are environment friendly.
The unit visited took enzymatic desizing into practice and used the same m/c as for
singeing.
Steeping the temperature for affecting the swelling and softening of the size
paste.
Rinsing thoroughly in water.
Pulkozyme
Chelating agent is used which forms a complex with the size present in the
fabric, mixes in water and gets drained off.
These rollers are rotated for 8 hours so that the enzyme can react with the
size present on the fabric.
5.6.3. FEATURES:
An exhaust fan removes fluffs, fumes, dust collected by brush & exits
through a ventilation hood.
Mixture of C.N.G. (3O to 35 %) and air (65 to 70 %) is supplied at constant
pressure.
Double burner flame system which automatically controls the flame height,
width and temperature.
Cool water is supplied to make cool the burner.
Water & Chemicals for desizing is supplied to quenching chamber from
tanks through pipes.
5.6.4. FAULTS
5.7. WASHING
Fig. 5.7
Machine used: INJECTA MACHINE, BENNINGER (GERMANY)
Efficiency- 85-87%
5.7.1. PROCESS
5.8. MERCERISING
Mercerising can be done at different stages during the pre-treatment process. This
could be after Desizing or after Scouring or after Bleaching. When done after
desize-washing, it induces maximum luster onto the fabric. However,
contamination of dye can occur, which reduces life of the caustic lye. High degree
of whiteness can be achieved if the bleaching process is done after mercerisation.
Mercerisation after scouring and bleaching prevents contamination of caustic dye
but effects the whiteness and absorbency. Mercerising can be done either on wet
fabric with a dye concentration controller or on dry fabrics.
Cold Mercerising is strictly done below 20 degree C as there are few chances of
hydrolization of color.
Fig. 5.8
250 gpl (grams per litre) caustic soda is applied and kept for 45 sec. Liquid
ammonia (NH3) is used in mercerization (NH3 becomes liquid at -33degree
Celsius) Liquid ammonia treatment is a highly effective and well controlled
alternative to caustic soda mercerisation, but high capital cost of the necessary
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equipment for recovery and reuse of the ammonia as well as the application steps
limits the adoption of this sophisticated approach more widely. The effect of liquid
ammonia treatment on the dyeing of the cotton depends on the ammonia is
removed. As with mercerising treated yarns and fabrics appear more deeply dyed
than untreated material having the same amount of the dye present. There are total
3 machines for mercerization.
Mercerising enhances –
Dimensional stability
Improves strength
Absorbency
Dye uptake and lustre,
Parallelisation of fibres
Sphering of fibres.
Kyoto
Clip mercerizer
High speed mercerization machine
72 meters long
Speed 80 m/min
Benninger
Computerized control
Trough capacity(for caustic)- 1100 liters
5.9. BLEACHING
1. BENNINGER (GERMANY)
No. of machines – 1
Speed – 58 m / min
Trough capacity – 116 litres of liquor
Liquor contains -
Caustic
Peroxide
Wetting agent
Stabilizer
Wetting of fabric
Bleaching
Number of
Machine name
machines
Batching machine 2
Singeing and desizing machine 1
Injecta washer 1
Continuous bleaching range 1
Mercerizing machine 3
Jumbo jigger 2
Drying machine 1
Soaping machine 1
DYEING SECTION
6. DYEING UNIT
6.1. DYEING
Dyeing is the process which provides uniform single colouration throughout the
surface of the textile material. Dyeing can be classified into various categories on
the basis of parameters such as textile material being dyed and whether batched or
continuous. Given below is a description of all the dyeing processes which were
going on in the unit during the visit.
Number of machines: 87
Capacity: 18 tons/day
Fig. 6.2
6.3. PACKAGE DYEING
MACHINES
In these enclosed machines where dyeing under pressure can take place, the dye-
liquor is circulated through wound packages of yarn until the dye is evenly
exhausted.
The yarn is wound onto perforated tubes or springs, and the packages are classified
according to count and formed are then mounted onto a perforated rod (spindle) or
tube. After loading, the carrier is dropped into a seating in the dyeing tank by the
means of overhead crane, through which the dye-liquor is circulated. The
dye-liquor is pumped through the packages in either direction, according to
need.
In dyeing warp yarns, a single perforated cylinder of the yarns fits into the seating
of the dye tank.
Fig. 6.3
Packages that are too loosely wound may collapse during the dyeing process.
However, packages that are too tightly wound may interfere with the circulation of
the dye-liquor. In any case, the packages must be wound as uniformly as possible.
6.4. AUTOLAB-DISPENSER
There is a stock of primary dye solutions that can be mixed in specific proportions
to get any shade. This is a computerized process and requires little intervention
manually.
To prepare dye solutions of accurate and specific concentration, this is helpful. A
beaker is placed in which some quantity of water is filled. The range of dye that
can be added is shown on the screen. Then it is taken and agitated for homogenous
mixing. The beaker is replaced and desired concentration entered in the system.
Water is filled to achieve that concentration.
Yarn is weighed and tagged to be put into the solution for dyeing. Then the yarn or
the fabric swatch is treated with dye for required amount of temperature and time.
The machines which are used are:
Fig. 6.4
Microprocessor
It depends on light, medium, dark, reactive dyes. All details are feeded onto the
processor and locked, as per the requirement one program is used.
Closing Tank
In this chemicals are added as per the approved recipe and a tube passes
from this tank to main tank through which dye liquor passes through.
Main tank
It’s the main tank in which carrier is been put.
First they put the carriage in the main tank in which 900 liters of
water is filled.
Then chemical is put into chamber which later goes to closing tank.
Programming done according to chemicals, water, temperature.
Water coming out from bottom of spindle and spreads out.
There are mainly two stages: in–out and out-in
7-8 hrs is taken for dyeing 1 carrier.
Capacity is 18 tons/day
Dummy Carriers
In same vessel we can have different capacity. There are carriers known as dummy
carriers. These carriers consist of dummy spindles. Dummy spindles are plain
rod which doesn’t have holes in them so that when dyeing process takes
place water is not wasted in and out through these spindles. So these rods
block the movement of water in and out through the spindle.
TYPES OF DEFECTS
1. Shade matching
2. Shade levelling
6.7. CARRIERS
There are around 200 carriers available and minimum being 10 spindles.
Maximum of 25 carriers can be put on a machine with at least 10 spindles on 1
carrier. Their height is around 180cm.
SPRING
1.2 kg packages.
These carriers are compressed by 12-15%.
The weight of these carriers is 160-168 grams.
PLASTIC TUBE
945 g packages
The weight of these carriers is 135-140 grams.
Carriers
AFTER TREATMENT:
Hot wash: 80˚C for 10 minutes.
Soaping chemical: wash of rd (0.5gpl upto 0.2% depth)
Tan: Metaxiladw (0.7gpl 0.21 to 0.5%)
This is the most modern machine used for the dyeing of polyester using disperse
dyes. In this machine the cloth is dyed in rope form which is the main disadvantage
of the machine.
In this machine, the dye tank contains disperse dye, dispersing agent, leveling
agent and acetic acid. The solution is filled up in the dye tank and it reaches the
heat exchanger where the solution will be heated which then passed on to the
centrifugal pump and then to the filter chamber. Therefore, this machine made use
of HTHP dyeing method.
The solution is filtered and reaches a tubular chamber. Here the material to be dyed
will be loaded and the winch is rotated, so that the material is also rotated. Again
the dye liquor reaches the heat exchanger and the operation is repeated for 20 to 30
minutes at 135˚C. Then the dye bath is cooled down, after the material is taken out.
Metering wheel is also fixed on winch by external electronic unit. Its purpose is to
record the speed of the fabric. The thermometer, pressure gauge is also fixed in the
side of the machine to note the temperature and pressure under working.
However, in the plant visited, the jet dyeing machine was not put to use due to the
fact that it dyes the fabric in rope form, leaving it crinkled and its extremely low
capacity of 1000m/batch.
Risk of entanglement
6.9.1. PROCESS
After a series of various rollers, the grey fabric is passed through a trough of dye
stuff. After this comes in picture the process of chemical fixation. After being
padded with sodium silicate (in an alkaline medium i.e. soda ash), the fabric is
passed through steam chambers for chemical fixation. Further it is padded with
CH3COOH to neutralize the soda ash and sodium silicate. Next step involves
passing the fabric through an Infra-Red heater for mechanical fixation of the dye
and drying up the fabric.
This process takes care of shade variation within the roll. The fabric is divided into
4 sections width wise as shown below:
1 2 3 4
3 1 4 2
Once the pieces are arranged as shown in the diagram, if there is any center to
selvedge shade variation, it becomes evident instantly. Remedial measures are
taken immediately.
PROBLEM
The jet dyeing machine was left inutile due to low ROI and hence, in extension,
poor productivity.
SOLUTION
It was resolved by putting the same machine to use for smaller consignments
which required crinkle effect. It is now also used for desizing.
QUALITY ASSURANCE
7. QUALITY ASSURANCE
7.1. TRADITIONAL VIEW
Fig 7.3
Fig 7.2
Fig 7.1 OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE B.F.TECH 83
(2013-17)
Summer Textile Internship
This testing happens at the yarn manufacturing stage and the yarn is tested for its
1. Length
2. Elongation
3. Elasticity
The yarn should be tested in a way so as to know whether the yarn can take all the
loadings or not and if yes to what extent can it take.
This helps in deciding what processes the yarn can face and what effects cab be
deduced.
Single yarn strength and its elongations is measured using the USTER
TENSORPAID 3 machine which is the most trusted name in the field and comes
from Switzerland.
INSTRON 4465 is used to check the tensile strength of the fibre and the tear
strength is also calculated in grams.
For all the above written testing’s the standard lab conditions are made at a
temperature of 60+/-
2 F and the humidity level is maintained at 65%+/-2%
Factors like stretchablilty skew and shrinkage are tested after marking is done
followed by three washings of the fabric; the fabric is tonned to the environment
after keeping it in the standard environment.
In the colour quest they try to find out the different shades and they see to it that
after the washing and drying process does the shade match the requirement of the
customer or not.
Temperature
Mercury thermometer, temperature indicator & controllers, temperature switches,
temperature gauges, temperature transmitters.
Pressure
Pressure gauge, vacuum gauge, pressure transmitter, pressure switch.
Mass
Analytical weighing balance AC/OC voltage, AC/DC current, single phase power,
frequency, resistance capacitance, conductance, logic pulses, logic levels.
Digital& analogue amateur, millimeters, panel meters, frequency meters.
Dimensional
Measure tape, steel scale, Vernier capture, micro meter, dial gauge.
Fig. 7.5
This is a prime instrument, which fulfills all the requirements and measures the
different parameters for cotton to be used in production. The different criteria,
which it detects, are as follows:
Rd: the color i.e. the degree of yellowness or whiteness of the fibers.
This is a semi-operated machine and measures all parameters except color. A comb
is used to take out ‘fiber beard’, which is used to feed the machine.
This is used to test impurities in cotton. 10-100 g of fiber is taken and the output
includes clean cotton, micro dust and major impurities. The clean cotton serves as
a standard for testing efficiency of carded sliver.
7.6.1. CLASSIMAT:
This instrument tests faults in the yarn. 100 km of yarn can be tested at once. The
thick and thin, long and short areas of the yarn are detected and categorized
according to the severity. In a graph, A1, B1, C1…denotes the length of the fault,
while A1, A2, A3…denotes the mass of the yarn which in turn is a measure of
thickness. If the resultant value falls under E, it is a long and thick area. F and G of
the graph show thin and long areas.
Fig. 7.7
7.6.5. AFIS (ADVANCED FIBER INFORMATION SYSTEM):
An in process testing system for detecting neps, length, micronaire till roving
stage.
7.8. CROCKMETER
To determine the color fastness of dyed or printed
textiles or leather, this test is used for the
determination of color fastness against rubbing,
either under dry or under wet conditions.
Fig. 7.9
Fig.
7.11
Fig. 7.8
7.11. ABRASION AND PILLING TESTER
Fig.
7.12
To determine the abrasion and pilling resistance of all kinds of textile structures.
Samples are rubbed against known abradents at low pressures and in continuously
Fig. 7.9
ENVIRONMENTAL
FACTORS
Arvind ltd. has switched from liquid fuel to natural gas for all their heating &
steam requirements in order to avoid air pollution.
Arvind ltd. also possess chemical, biological treatment facilities to treat 1000m/day
of effluents to meet the pollution control board norms.
8.3. ACCREDITATIONS
8.4. ACCREDITED BY
9. LEARNINGS
Arvind is the best platform to learn how quality and quantity is maintained at the
same time. That’s the reason we joined the mill for our first internship. We learn a
lot in our 15 days internship.
Ring dying process in denim was the best part of our learning as it was the process
of great curiosity. Our mentor told and explain the whole process and clarified on
the the process. Also we saw the only machine in Asia that is “cone to beam
converter”. It converts the cone to beam and vice-versa. So we can use this
machine with every machine and can produce output in any type of format.
Also we came to know about some new finishing techniques like arrow finish
which is given to provide softness to fabric. We got the opportunity to see the latest
technology machines in the mill like drawing and carding machines which is able
to reduce the manpower upto 8 persons per machine.
Our whole internship was full of learning and it teaches us how quality is
preserved with quantity.
Business Analysis
Key Highlights:
Exceptional items:
Rs. 26 crores for retrenchment of 960 workers
Rs. 22 crores for settlement of legal dispute of USPA brand with Polo Ralph
Lauren
Key Highlights
Exceptional items :
Rs.29 crores for retrenchment of 1012 workers
Rs. 22 crores for settlement of legal dispute of USPA brand with Polo Ralph
Lauren
Margin moderated in both key business segments in FY
2014-15
Quarterly margins lower than LY due to Forex loss and Mega Mart Performance
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 103
(2013-17)
Summer Textile Internship
EBIDTA margin of textile business lower due losses incurred in two garments
manufacturing plants which commenced commercial production in Q4.
Led by 8% growth
Woven fabrics
6% growth in garments
2% growth in Denim
10% growth on a
smaller base for the
voiles business
11. ANNEXURES
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 106
(2013-17)
Summer Textile Internship
References: