Cosmetic Preservation 2017

1st published in SPC 2017

John Woodruff
Despite an impressive number of preservatives permitted in Annex V very few are without criticism,
real or imagined. At In-Cosmetics 2017 Nirmal Koshti, Galaxy Surfactants, summed up the situation
by stating that consumers expect preservatives to be free from parabens, formaldehyde releasers,
halogenated chemicals, isothiazolinones and phenolic/alcoholic/glycolic molecules so only organic
acids, dehydroacetic acid, benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol are left. The answer from Galaxy is to
combine benzoic acid and dehydroacetic acid, which are good antifungal agents, with capryloyl
glycine and undecylenoyl glycine, which are good antimicrobial agents. The result is Galguard NT,
described as a composition for personal care products based on non-toxic, non-controversial
antimicrobials, which In combination show synergy and the four-pronged attack is a good deterrent
for microbes to develop resistance.

Maximising the efficacy of listed preservatives and utilising the antimicrobial properties of non-listed
ingredients was a reoccurring theme at In-Cosmetics 2017. Jan Jãnichen, Dr Straetmans, discussed
efficacy boosting by maintaining the preservative system in the aqueous phase. He said that caprylyl
glycol at 0.5% could be adequate in an emulsion containing a non-polar oil phase such as mineral oil
but could fail if a more polar oil like decyl cocoate or triheptanoin was substituted for it as the
caprylyl glycol would migrate into the more polar oil phase. His proposal was to find a suitable
solvent that would be readily water-soluble, be of sufficient lipophilicity and be cost effective. Of
those investigated he found methylpropanediol to be the most suitable when added to the aqueous
phase. Experiment showed that methylpropanediol could significantly shift the concentration of
capryyll glycol between an aqueous and a C8/10 triglyceride phase. The distribution did not follow a
linear relationship; maximum was reached at a concentration of 3% methylpropanediol in 70% water
and this improved the antimicrobial efficacy of caprylyl glycol. Further experiment led to the
development of Dermosoft OMP [Methylpropanediol, caprylyl glycol, phenylpropanol], Dermosoft
OM [Methylpropanediol, caprylyl glycol] and Verstatil MBO [Methylpropanediol, caprylyl glycol,
benzoic acid], this latter being suitable for wet wipes.

Although not featured at In-Cosmetics 2017, Dr Straetmans has developed several other mixtures
with antimicrobial properties including Verstatil TBG [INCI: Triethyl citrate, glyceryl caprylate,
benzoic acid] that is effective for pH 4 – 6, and Verstatil BOB [INCI: Benzyl alcohol, caprylyl glycol,
benzoic acid] that is effective for pH 3 – 8. There is also Dermosoft [INCI: Sodium anisate], which is a
completely water-soluble salt of p-anisic acid that can be added directly to the cold water-phase
before heating. The fungicidal activity of Dermosoft Anisate can be used in combination with other
Dermosoft multifunctional ingredients with microbial activity to develop cosmetic products with no
further need for traditional preservatives.

Caprylyl glycol appears in many other offerings of alternative preservatives. For example: Salicylates
and Chemicals supplies it in association with phenoxyethanol as Saliguard PG and with the addition
of propylene glycol as Saliguard PCG. Sharon Laboratories mix it with phenethyl alcohol as Sharomix
CPP and with phenylpropanol as Sharomix CPP. Symrise add it to 1,2-hexanediol in SymDiol 68,
Active Micro Technologies mix with herbal extracts to form Synercide Herbal Infusion and
Cosphatec supplies it in combination with propanediol and phenylpropanol as Cosphaderm POP.

Cosphatec also markets may other alternative multifunctional ingredients obtained by careful and
gentle extraction processes that are used to isolate ingredients that are EcoCert and Cosmos
accredited. These include Cosphaderm LA-T [INCI: Levulinic Acid, glycerine, sodium levulinate, aqua],
which is derived from sugar cane and vegetable oil: Cosphaderm GMG [INCI: Glyceryl caprylate,
propanediol natural, glycerine, Magnolia officinalis bark extract, Psidium guajava leaf extract] and
Cosphaderm Sodium pAS Natural that is sodium anisate from Star Anise and is claimed to have

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John Woodruff
fungicidal activity. Cosphaderm Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract]is said to be bactericidal, anti-yeast
and anti-fungal activity. It also supplies nature-identical propanediol, caprylyl glycol, phenylpropanol
and 1-2, hexanediol that are made synthetically to optimise costs.

The use of unlisted materials with antimicrobial action is sometimes questioned but suppliers quote
the definition within the Cosmetic Product Regulations that defines preservatives as substances
which are exclusively or mainly intended to inhibit the development of microorganisms in the
cosmetic product. This is believed to pave the way to use multi-functional additives which are not
mainly intended to inhibit microorganisms but still may have a certain efficacy. It has to be admitted
that most of the data that accompanies multifunctional ingredients refers more to their
antimicrobial properties than to their emollient or moisturising attributes.

Schulke sees the trend in preservatives is towards organic acids, alcohols, chelating agents and
multifunctional additives and suggests a combination of different substances as an advantageous
way to improve the efficacy of preservative systems or to reduce the concentration of single
ingredients in final compositions. Following this concept, it offers three mixtures: Euxyl K903 [INCI:
Benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid, tocopherol] for products pH<6 and said to give a
broad balanced spectrum effect against bacteria, yeasts and moulds and is suitable for leave-on and
rinse-off products including wet wipes. Euxyl K940 [INCI: Phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol,
ethylhexylglycerin, tocopherol] may be used up to pH 12 and is stable to hydrolysis, temperature
and pH. The third material from Schulke is Sensiva PA40 [INCI: Phenylpropanol, propanediol, caprylyl
glycol, tocopherol], also stable to pH 12 and comprising natural and nature-identical ingredients with
mild humectant and emollient properties.

A personal communication from Inolex says that the main multifunctional compounds with
antimicrobial activity used in cosmetics are the medium chain length diols; caprylyl glycol,
ethylhexylglycerin, glyceryl caprylate and 1,2-hexanediol. They all work by membrane disruption and
reduction of water activity and are good at controlling the growth of bacteria and yeast. However,
they are not particularly functional against mould and shouldn’t be considered broad spectrum. Both
caprylyl glycol and glyceryl caprylate are not liquid so require a certain amount of warming and
mixing before use and they have a certain level of surface activity, so have the potential to disrupt
emulsions. Inolex has now launched Lexgard O-EZ. [INCI: Caprylyl glycol, propanediol], which is fully
liquid and allows the formulator to incorporate the highest level of caprylyl glycol using a cold
process ingredient. There is also Lexgard Natural, which is a COSMOS certified blends of glyceryl
caprylate and glyceryl undecylenate. It is an emollient, co-emulsifier, skin re-fatting agent, and
biostatic system effective at pH 4.0 - 7.5, with optimal results at pH 5.5 or lower and is
recommended for emulsion systems.

The major problem with using organic acids as preservatives is that they rapidly lose efficacy at
increasing pH. Caprylhydroxamic acid (CHA) is a chelating agent with a high affinity for iron (Fe 3+)
ions, which is an essential mineral for the growth of mould. When CHA forms a complex with iron, it
no longer allows the mould to use it and in-turn prevents it from growing. It is functional when in the
acid form, and as it is a hydroxamic acid and not a carboxylic acid, it has a higher pKa at 9.4,
therefore has full activity up to at least pH 8. CHA is a patented material unique to Inolex and it is
available in combination with different multifunctional diols to give a range of globally approved
antimicrobial mixtures suitable for all the different types of cosmetic compositions.

Chemyunion has developed several products based on xylitol esters that have antimicrobial activity.
Herbeatol Plus is xylityl sesquicaprylate, which shows synergy with IPBC or phenoxyethanol when

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tested on an o/w emulsion. It also showed synergy with CTAC and BTAC when tested in hair
conditioner formulations and to be effective in shampoo. Herbeatol BA [INCI: Benzyl alcohol,
xuylitol, caprylic acid] is described as a synergistic combination of xylitol ester with benzyl alcohol for
skin care products at pH 3.5 – 7.0. Herbeatol PSVG [INCI: Xylitol, caprylic acid, potassium sorbate,
glycerine, water] is described as a synergistic combination of xylitol ester and potassium sorbate and
to be Ideal for skin and hair care formulas, including sunscreens.

Sharon Laboratories, which markets both listed and multifunctional preservative blends, decided to
create a preservative mixture based entirely on nature identical ingredients. It synthesised thymol,
which is the major constituent of thyme oil, and linalool, found extensively in citrus oils, to create a
number of preservative blends available under its SharoSENSE trade name. Sharon Laboratories
launched its Sharomix Amplify range at In-Cosmetics 2017 as a new preservative solution that is
claimed to be broad spectrum with superior activity allowing for a significantly lower level of use in
the finished product. Currently there are two products in the range: Sharomix AM11/15 [INCI:
Phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, ethyl lauroxy arginate] and Sharomix AM12 [INCI:
Phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, ethyl lauroyl arginate].

Hydroxyacetophenone is a nature identical compound, found in Lampaya hieronymi, a herb, native

to Latin America, and in Rubus chamaemorus or cloudberry, found in Alpine regions. Symrise has
synthesised the material and studies show it to be an antioxidant with skin soothing and anti-irritant
properties. It also has preservative boosting properties so can be described as a true multi-functional
ingredient. Symrise offers it as the neat powder as SymSave H and as a liquid solution in
phenoxyethanol as SymOcide PH.

The human microbiome was the subject of the In-Cosmetics 2017 presentation of Natural
Antimicrobials and The Beauty Microbiome given by Durant Scholz, Active Micro Technologies
(AMT), who described it as a unique interface between us and our environment, providing
protection against pathogenic invaders and acting as the first real barrier of skin defence. Scholz said
that microbes were the first life forms on Earth and 37% of human DNA is inherited from bacteria
and there are billions of bacteria, viruses, and fungi within our bodies. Microorganisms on the skin
surface perform a wide variety of functions; for example, Staphylococcus epidermidis produces a
secretion that reduces inflammation, speeds wound healing and inhibits tissue colonisation by S.
aureus. Scholz suggested that preservatives incorporated into personal care products can disrupt the
natural microflora of the skin leaving it prone to attack by pathogenic organisms that can cause skin
inflammation and stress and leave it prone to atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and acne. AMT focused on
a solution involving antimicrobial peptides derived from fermentation of lactic acid bacteria, which
effectively eliminates unwanted microbes without negatively altering, and perhaps even promoting,
the skin’s commensal microflora.

The human biome is a relatively new and exciting area of research for the cosmetic industry.
Literature from GOVA states that the main skin function is to build a protective barrier against the
aggressive environment. The epidermis and more specifically the horny layer forms a shield that
keeps out undesirable chemicals and bacteria and recent scientific research discovered that our
barrier is protected by a layer of microorganisms covering the epidermis. Each skin cell is guarded by
a unit of at least 10 beneficial microorganisms so 90% of our skin is formed by this human skin flora.
This microbiotic film forms an impenetrable labyrinth for foreign and harmful microorganisms and
skin imperfections and skin discomfort are caused by a disturbance of our protective microflora.

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John Woodruff
Gova suggests that the solution to slow down skin aging and to keep the skin in a healthy shape is to
energize and to protect the skin microbiota barrier and it has developed preBIULIN FOSTM as a
prebiotic that makes skin microbiota and skin more resistant. A prebiotic is a selective food
supplement for protective and beneficial skin microbiota and harmful microorganisms cannot
metabolise it, hence natural skin flora is reinforced and balanced, while harmful microorganisms are
disadvantaged. preBIULIN FOSTM is a polyfructose extracted from chicory root, Inctybus chicorium,
and enzymatically purified towards a chain length of 10 fructose units and higher.

A final footnote is that although the safety of poly(hexamethylene) biguanide hydrochloride (PHMB)
was called into question, vigorous defence of this ingredient led by Lonza has resulted in a positive
outcome with the decision that PHMB is safe as a preservative in all cosmetic products up to 0.1%. It
is available from Lonza as a 20% aqueous solution trade-named Cosmocil CQ and described as a
mild, water-soluble, broad spectrum, fast-acting bactericide that is heat and UV stable.

John Woodruff
www.creative-developments.co.uk