ATX PC Computer Power Supply Troubleshooting

Warning! You must unplug your ATX power supply from the wall before working inside the case.

The power supply troubleshooting chapter below is from my book, "Computer Repair
with Diagnostic Flowcharts, Third Edition." The updates related to power supply
diagnostics include a rework of the decision tree and attempting to force a dead power
supply on, something I left out of previous editions for fear of doing more harm than
good. The instantly downloadable book with 17 flowcharts and text is available for
purchase here.
ATX Power Supply Failure Diagnostics
Note that these steps correspond with decision points on the flowchart and are reached
directly by clicking on the diamond symbols. The text below cannot be read
sequentially.

The first step in the troubleshooting process is simply determining if the power supply
is coming on. You can usually hear the mechanical components in PCs that make
rotational noise when they are powered up. Noise makers include the hard drive, as its
electric motor spins up the platters, and plenty of fan noise is normal for PCs without
PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) fans. Your PC should also give a single beep if it
passes its internal start-up diagnostic, and there are always status LED's to tell you the
system is on, though some home PC builders don't bother connecting them. If your
hearing isn't good, you can check to see if the power supply fan is creating a breeze.
Monitors are powered independently, so unless you're looking at a notebook PC, a
live screen doesn't indicate a working power supply.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

If your computer has a display connected, can you get a live screen, whether it's a
simple text message or a colorful splash screen? If the display shows a message like
"No video signal detected," that's the monitor telling you the video port isn't
communicating, so you should follow the "No" path for this decision. Sometimes a
CRT or older LCD may show a multiplicity of images or endless scrolling, which
means the video adapter is alive and trying to transmit an image but the monitor can't
interpret the signals. This doesn't happen as often with modern LCDs or expensive
CRTs that can match a large range of inputs for higher screen resolutions set in
Windows. If you are using a high definition TV for your primary display, do yourself
a favor and use a standard monitor for troubleshooting until you eliminate the power
supply as an issue.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

Newer components like quad core processors and dual PCI Express video adapters
have doubled the power requirements of typical gaming PCs. An entry level ATX
power supply for a PCI Express gaming PC these days is 600W, and power supplies
ranging from 750W to 1000W are no longer unusual. The primary culprits are multi-
core CPUs that can consume anywhere from 10W to 50W or more per core, for a total
CPU consumption as high as 200W in a single processor system. Meanwhile, PCI
Express graphics cards for gaming can pull as much as 200 Watts by themselves, or
double that in a dual card configuration.
While PC power supply manufacturers boast about their power rating since it's their
main selling point, manufacturers of video cards and other components don't trumpet
their power consumption. You may have to do a little math to work it out. Sometimes
they give the peak current requirement in Amps (A) at the supply voltage, usually
12V, so you multiply the two numbers for the power consumption in Watts. All of the
high end video cards require more power than can be supplied through the PCI
Express slot on the motherboard, so they are fed directly from the power supply with
one or two 6-pin PCI Express supplementary connectors. Older video adapters
employed the 4-pin Molex drive connectors.

A quick search online will help you find a number of calculators for determining your
power supply requirement based on the components installed. If the power supply
boasts of a peak power rating, don't use that as your guide. Peak power is not
sustainable, it's only a meaningful metric for electrical devices with transient
demands, like electric car motors that can safely exceed their maximum power rating
for short periods during acceleration. PC power demands can remain steady for
extended periods, and I like to leave a good 20% margin for error above the computed
maximum demand.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

If the power comes on but the screen never goes live, try switching back off again and
retrying. The switch programming may require you to hold the power button in for a
few seconds before the power supply shuts down again. If it refuses to power down,
check if there's an override switch on the back of the supply. Otherwise you can turn
off your power strip, if you're using one, or just pull the plug. If the PC gets through
boot and lights up the screen after a second or third try, it's likely due to
miscommunication between the motherboard and power supply around the
power_good signal.

The power supply is supposed to delay sending the power_good signal, which tells the
CPU it's safe to boot, until the power outputs are stable. This signal allows the CPU to
shut itself down if power becomes unstable during regular operation. I've only seen
this problem with cheap or failing power supplies, though ironically, some of the
cheapest power supplies fake the power_good signal by tying it to their 5V output. If
the power_good signal is faked, the computer will try to operate even when power is
out of specification, which can easily lead to real data errors before the voltage drops
low enough to cause a shutdown.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

Beep codes are reported out by the motherboard BIOS diagnostics at power up. A
single beep means the POST (Power On Self Test) test was successful and the CPU,
memory and video adapter are all reporting present and accounted for. Any longer
strings of beeps are usually due to a hardware failure (or something pressing down a
key on the keyboard) and the beep codes depend on the manufacturer. Long strings of
slow beeps are usually related to a bad memory module, and repeating strings of 3 or
9 beeps often indicate video card failure. In either of these cases, shut down, unplug,
and try reseating either the RAM or the video adapter, though it can't hurt to do both.
If you are getting beeps with a live screen, the problem is unlikely to be power supply
related. Proceed to the Motherboard, CPU and RAM Failure diagnostics.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

If you've done any work in the case immediately before the boot failure, undo it, even
if it means swapping the old component back in. If a new component prevents the
power supply from attaining stability due to excessive current draw, it should cause
the power supply to withhold the power_good signal, preventing the motherboard
from attempting to boot. The boot failure may be unrelated to the new component, but
you could have dislodged a connector, left a loose screw rolling around, or unseated
an adapter while working in the case.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

A noisy power supply fan can usually be cleaned or replaced easily enough, though
you have to watch out for the big capacitors in the power supply when you open it up,
even after it's unplugged. Case fans can also fail and make noise, as can the heat sink
fans on the CPU, video adapter, or motherboard chipset. And make sure the fan noise
isn't due to something stuck in the grille and hitting the fan blades. If your kids hear a
whistle that you don't, it's probably beyond your hearing range, and it's not necessarily
in the power supply either. I tend to leave these things alone on older PCs if they
aren't bothering anybody.

High quality power supplies ship with PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) fans, which
are capable of running at much lower RPMs than fans that are controlled by the
voltage level. PWM fans require four input leads, ground, 12V, the tachometer output
and the PWM control input. Fans with two or three wires can only be controlled by
varying the input voltage. PWM fans can typically run down to about a quarter of
their rated speed, where voltage controlled fans will usually cease working well
before dropping to half of their rated speed. It makes a huge difference in noise output
when the higher air circulation, measured in CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) isn't
required.
Return to Diagnostic Chart

If you get a text message on the screen that makes any reference to the hard drive, the
controller, a SMART error, or any message mentioning the operating system, missing
files, etc, proceed to the ATA Drive Failure flowchart. If your power supply is
chronically noisy with whistling capacitors or hums, that may be reason enough for
you to replace it. And if you've been through the other flowcharts because your PC
locks up or reboots at random times, the problem could well be the power supply
quality, even if it usually boots the PC.

If you have experience working with a Digital Volt Meter around live voltages, you
can try checking the voltages right at the top of the connector to see if they are within
reasonable tolerance of the rated voltages. It depends on whether your probe is thin
enough and how much room there is next to each wire at the top of the connector to
insert the probe. Unfortunately, a simple DVM won't show you whether there is AC
ripple on the DC voltages, which can cause all sorts of problems if it's bad enough. An
expensive multimeter with sample-and-hold capability and a sampling rate of a few
milliseconds can capture the min/max of the DC voltage, showing the presence of
ripple without your seeing it as you would on an oscilloscope. This test also requires
back-probing the ATX connector or introducing a break-out box between the ATX
connector and the motherboard. The test must be performed with the power supply
attached to the motherboard for a live load and is only recommended for experienced
techs.

Unstable voltages and AC ripple on the DC are real ghosts in the machine, and can
mimic all sorts of other problems. If you get into a flaky failure situation that you can't
diagnose and you've already started swapping parts, you may as well try a new power
supply as well. I've seen power supplies produce some really bizarre failures, like a
PC that reboots when you set your coffee cup down too hard on the table. The most
pervasive of the unstable power supply problems are random lockups or spontaneous
reboots. Modern motherboards have some ability to regulate the power they receive,
but it's got to be within a reasonable range, and the power supply has to cooperate by
monitoring its own output and reporting through the power_good signal.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

If power isn't coming on, take the time to double check that the cord is plugged into a
live socket and firmly seated in the back of the power supply. You don't need a DVM
(Digital Volt Meter) to check your power outlet. Unplug the power supply cord from
the outlet and plug a working lamp into the very same socket to test it. Don't assume
that all the sockets in a power strip are working just because the power strip status
light is lit. I'm always coming across power strips with one or more bad outlets. The
power supply cord is basically bullet-proof, unless you cut through it with something,
but if the PC gets moved or the cord gets kicked, it's easy for that cord to pull out a bit
from the socket on the back of the power supply and still look like it's plugged in.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

Newer, high quality power supplies are generally termed "universal input" or "full
range" and will work on any AC voltage from 90V to 240V at 50 Hz or 60 Hz. While
supply voltage shouldn't be an issue with a previously working PC, if you've replaced
the power supply or moved the system, it's always a possibility. Older power supplies
shipped with a manual switch to select the correct voltage (110V/ 220V). This small
red slide switch is located on the back of the power supply, usually between the power
cord and the on/off override. You should always unplug the power supply cord before
changing the voltage because modern ATX power supplies are always live when
plugged in. While it's not recommended that you experiment, if you plug the power
supply with the switch on 220V into the socket in a 110V country like the U.S., it may
still work when you correct the voltage. But if you power on a supply set for 110V in
a country with a 220V distribution, you'll probably blow the power supply fuse (at the
very least), and potentially damage the supply and the connected components.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

One obvious reason the PC won't turn on when you press the switch is if the switch
lead has separated from the motherboard. This lead is usually labeled PW-ON or PW
and it reaches from the front the PC case to a small block of metallic pins for case
connections to the motherboard. It's not at all uncommon to encounter this problem if
you've done any work inside the case because the leads aren't glued in place and the
connectors aren't tight. Even if you've built a number of PCs in your life, it's normal to
get this connection wrong when you replace or install a new motherboard due to poor
identification of the pins in the connector block. On the bright side, it's a non-
polarized switch so you only have to pick the correct two pins, not the orientation. I've
come across cases where the printed book that ships with a new motherboard
disagrees with the printing on the motherboard itself as to the function of different pin
sets in the connector block. I always go with the motherboard labeling in those cases.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

Check that the power switch is really working by using a meter on the continuity
setting, or just check for a short when the switch is closed if your meter only measures
Ohms. ATX technology PCs don't switch the line voltage, as did the previous
generation AT power supplies. The switch is just a binary logic input for the
motherboard which is always partially live in an ATX system that's plugged in. The
motherboard follows its programming to tell the power supply to come on full or to
shut down, depending on the settings. The same switch may be used to wake the PC
from stand-by mode. This doesn't apply to obsolete AT PCs, where you'll see the
heavy power cord going to a large switch, but those systems are pretty much gone.

When I'm troubleshooting the power switch in an ATX system and I don't have a
meter with me, I just short across the two pins for the power switch in the
motherboard connector block with a screwdriver to see if the system will start. Since
it's a live power test, don't try it if you aren't comfortable working with live equipment
and might jerk away in surprise when the power does come on. You could end up
stabbing the motherboard or the video adapter with the screwdriver, just from
reflexes, and do serious damage. When you encounter a failed switch and don't have a
replacement on hand, you may be able to scavenge the hard reset switch present on
older cases.

If you believe the motherboard was badly damaged by a power surge or a short, it's
possible the switch circuit has failed or that the power supply is immediately shutting
off to protect itself from a high current draw. Another live power test for experienced
technicians is to bypass the motherboard switching circuit by disconnecting all of the
power supply leads to the motherboard and then shorting the green P_On lead to a
black ground lead in a standard 20 or 24 pin ATX power supply connector. But
switching power supplies require a load to operate so you must keep the hard drive
connected.

If you press in the power switch on your system and it doesn't immediately shut off
the PC, that's how ATX systems are supposed to work. The power switch is
programmable and the action can often be defined in CMOS Setup or Windows. The
normal setting for PC power switches makes you hold the switch in for three to five
seconds to shut down the system. Pressing the switch for a shorter duration might put
the system in sleep mode or wake it up from hibernation, important options for power
conservation. If Windows fails to turn off the power when you select "shut down," it's
usually due to a corrupted file or bad setting in the operating system. The first thing to
try is running "System Restore" to a date prior to when the problem appeared.
Windows may also fail to shut down if an external USB device, often a back-up hard
drive, has been installed without the proper software drivers or is sharing a USB port.
It's easy enough to troubleshoot USB shut down issues by disconnecting those devices
one at a time.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

Modern motherboards require multiple connections from the power supply, starting
with the main 24 pin ATX connector that replaced the older 20 pin connector in most
designs. Power hungry CPUs and chipsets have led to a variety of supplemental
connectors, including a 4 pin or 8 pin ATX 12V supply on many systems, and
multiple 6 pin PCIe connectors for serious graphics cards.

With the power supply unplugged, make sure all motherboard connectors are properly
seated and latched by removing them and reattaching. I've always found the standard
latching system for the main power connector to be counter-intuitive. It works kind of
like a see-saw with a pivot, you have to squeeze in at the top to pop it open at the
bottom. They usually don't make any noise on releasing, but you should get a
satisfying click when you remake the connection.

ATX Version 2.2 - 24 wire motherboard connector

Pin 1 Pin 2 Pin 3 Pin 4 Pin 5 Pin 6 Pin 7 Pin 8 Pin 9 Pin 10 Pin 11 Pin 12
Groun Groun Groun P_O 5VS
3.3V 3.3V 5V 5V 12V 12V 3.3V
d d d K B
Orang Orang Purpl Yello Yello Orang
Black Red Black Red Black Gray
e e e w w e
Orang Gree Whit
Blue Black Black Black Black Red Red Red Black
e n e
Groun P_O Groun Groun Groun Groun
3.3V -12V -5V 5V 5V 5V
d N d d d d
Pin Pin Pin
Pin 13 Pin 14 Pin 15 Pin 17 Pin 18 Pin 19 Pin 22 Pin 23 Pin 24
16 20 21

The color scheme used for each voltage in the 24 pin connector holds for the other
ATX standard power supply connectors. However, brand name manufacturers,
especially older Dells, often used proprietary power supplies and made up their own
color coding, so I wouldn't throw out a power supply that supplies 5V where you
think it should supply 3.3V. It's more likely a proprietary design than a failure.

The 5V on Pin 9 is always present when the power supply is plugged in. This
connection supplies power to the various PC circuits that operate even when the PC is
turned off, such as "Wake on Modem" or "Wake on LAN." It's also the reason you
should never work in the PC with the power supply plugged in, unless you can
remember to turn off the ATX override switch on the back of the power supply every
time. This live power is supplied to the adapter slots, so replacing adapters with the
power cord plugged in may damage the motherboard or adapters. Even though the
drive leads aren't powered with the system turned off, you might drop a screw while
working on a drive. If that screw lands in just the wrong place, like an open bus slot, it
could create a short and damage the motherboard.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

We've reached this point because there was no sign of the PC powering on at the
beginning of the flowchart. Unless you have an SSD boot drive, you should also hear
a very subdued clicking or chuckling from the arm with the read/write head moving in
and out. Take the side off the PC case and make sure there are no signs of life, that
none of fans in the case are spinning, including the CPU fan, the video adapter fan and
any case fans.

Next, unplug the power supply from the wall, and then disconnect all of the power
supply leads from the motherboard, the video adapter, any auxiliary fans, the DVD.
The only component that should be connected to the power supply when you're done
is the hard drive. If there's more than one hard drive installed, you can leave those
power leads connected as well. If the power supply is from a quality manufacturer,
you should be able to determine the minimum load required for it to turn on, and a
standard hard drive is normally sufficient. A quality power supply without a sufficient
load will refuse to turn on (shutting itself off quickly) even when forced, but a cheap
power supply may damage itself.

If you're competent to work around live DC voltages in an open case, try to force the
power supply on by shorting the green wire (pin 16, power_on) to any of the black
wires (grounds) in the main ATX motherboard power connector, which is either 20 or
24 pins. The power supply may instantly turn itself off again if there if there is a short
circuit in the hard drive or if the load is insufficient. If the power supply comes on and
the hard drive spins up, the power supply is probably good.

If the power doesn't come on, double check that the power lead is firmly seated in the
drive socket. Old style Molex connectors used on old IDE hard drives were
notoriously hard to insert in the socket, and they rarely ever seated all the way. Try
switching to a different power supply lead, and if there are multiple hard drives
connected, try each one in turn.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

Since the PC powered up with nothing but the hard drive connected, the power supply
is probably good and there is either an excessive current draw or a short somewhere
on the motherboard or the other attached components. With the power supply
unplugged, reconnect all of the power leads you removed in the previous step, then try
powering up again just to make sure a bad connection wasn't your problem all along.
If this doesn't work, you'll now have to locate the problem component through the
process of elimination.

Start by removing the power and data cables from the DVD drive, you can do this
with the power supply plugged in. If the system doesn't start, the DVD isn't the
problem, so the next step is to start removing adapters, one at a time, leaving the video
for last. Unplug the power cord or switch off the power strip before removing each
adapter, then reconnect to power up. If the system powers up, replace all adapters
except the last one removed before power came on. If power still comes on, try the
last adapter you removed in different slot before giving up on it. If you find an adapter
that actually prevents the system from powering up, it must be replaced. If you are
running with dual PCI Express video cards, try running with just one and then just the
other. If you have a single high speed video card slot, whether PCI Express or the
older AGP technology, it could be that slot is faulty. Another possibility if you're
using parts from older PCs that date back to the last technology transition is that the
adapter is keyed as universal but is installed on a new motherboard that expects low
voltage AGP adapters (AGP 4X or 8X).

In rare instances, the motherboard circuitry for the power switch may have been
damaged. If you can see the conductors through the top of the main ATX connector,
you can try shorting green to black again with the connector still on the motherboard.
If power comes on, shut down again and reinstall the other components. If forcing the
power on works again, one possible work-around is to rig the front panel power
switch direct to the connector power_on and ground. I don't recommend permanently
shorting the two pins because you'll never be able to shut down from Windows (the
system will simply restart) and because the power_on circuit is intended for
momentary switching action, not to be tied to ground.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

Once you've eliminated the drives and the adapters, one of the few remaining
possibilities is a motherboard short. Remove the motherboard and check for a standoff
or screw installed in the wrong place or rolling around loose. I often build out systems
on the bench without a case, supporting the motherboard on a static proof bag over a
cardboard box or some similar arrangement to give the adapters room to seat. This
method eliminates any case mounting issues from the troubleshooting process, but it
introduces all sorts of risks, not the least of which is absence of the case ground.

Normally, a short circuit will result in a burnt smell and a ruined motherboard,
sometimes damaging any of the attached components (memory, CPU, adapters) as
well. In many instances, you'll be able to figure out which component is ruined by the
presence of burn marks or a strong odor of smoke coming from the component,
though when it happens in a closed case, the smoky smell can stick to everything. If
you can't locate a failed component by visual inspection, you need to have access to a
test-bed system (an inexpensive but completely functioning PC for testing
questionable parts). Don't test parts that may be fried in a good system, because some
types of failures will cause damage to the next machine.

If you've reached this point without ever getting the system to power up, you probably
have a defective motherboard. Because power isn't coming on at all with the
motherboard attached, it's very unlikely that the problem is the power supply failing to
produce all of the different voltages required by the motherboard. It is possible that
the power supply circuit for sensing over-current conditions has failed in such a way
that it is refusing to power up with a motherboard that would work with a different
power supply.

I always try swapping the power supply as a final test because it's easy to pull a spare
out of another system, and with the motherboard on the bench, you can usually make
the leads reach without even taking the known good power supply out of the donor
PC. Repairing power supplies requires a good knowledge of electronics as there are
usually "no user serviceable parts." Even when power supplies are unplugged, they
can give nasty zap from stored power in the electrolytic capacitors.

Return to Diagnostic Chart

The previous test only gives a decisive result if you performed it with a proven good
hard drive. You can either test your existing hard drive in another PC or in an external
USB case attached to a laptop, or you can obtain a known good working hard drive
from another PC. The capacity, speed, etc, of the hard drive is irrelevant to the test.
Any working hard drive with the right connector for the power supply will do.
However, if you ever thought there was a burnt smell or sparks coming from the drive
area in your PC or from the drive itself, don't test it in a good PC, or you risk causing
damage if it failed as a short circuit.

If you can't get power to come on and the hard drive to spin up when bypassing the
motherboard and forcing power on, either the ATX power supply has failed or the
hard drive does not present a sufficient electrical load for the switching power supply
to operate. And if you live in a region with irregular power from the utility or if you
are operating off-the-grid with home generated power, you should make sure the
supply voltage is in the acceptable range for the power supply, which does require a
volt meter.

If you're working on a server that uses SCSI drives, make sure the SCSI jumper to
delay drive spin-up isn't set. This used to be necessary in SCSI drive arrays so they
wouldn't all spin up at once and swamp the power supply. The default is usually for
the SCSI adapter to spin them up following their SCSI ID sequence.

The ATX specification requires the power supply to produce three main outputs, +3.3 V
(±0.165 V), +5 V (±0.25 V) and +12 V (±0.60 V). Low-power −12 V (±1.2 V) and 5 VSB
(standby) (±0.25 V) supplies are also required. A −5 V output was originally required because it
was supplied on the ISA bus, but it became obsolete with the removal of the ISA bus in modern
PCs and has been removed in later versions of the ATX standard.

Originally the motherboard was powered by one 20-pin connector. Current version of ATX12V
2.x power supply provides two connectors for the motherboard: a 4-pin auxiliary
connector providing additional power to the CPU, and a main 24-pin ATX 2 power supply
connector, an extension of the original 20-pin version.

ATX connector pinout

Pin Name Color Description

1 3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC

2 3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC

3 COM Black Ground

4 5V Red +5 VDC

5 COM Black Ground

6 5V Red +5 VDC

7 COM Black Ground

Power Ok is a status signal generated by the power supply to notify

8 PWR_OK Gray the computer that the DC operating voltages are within the ranges
required for proper computer operation (+5 VDC when power is Ok)
9 5VSB Purple +5 VDC Standby Voltage (max 10mA) 500mA or more typical

+12 VDC (may sometimes have a colored stripe to indicate which

10 12V Yellow
rail it's on)

11 3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC

12 -12V Blue -12 VDC

13 COM Black Ground

Power Supply On (active low). Short this pin to GND to switch power
14 /PS_ON Green
supply ON, disconnect from GND to switch OFF.

15 COM Black Ground

16 COM Black Ground

17 COM Black Ground

-5 VDC (2002 v1.2 made optional, 2004 v2.01 removed from

18 -5V White
specification)

19 5V Red +5 VDC

20 5V Red +5 VDC

People ware

A term first coined by Peter G. Neuman in 1977, peopleware refers to

the role people play in technology and the development of hardware or
software. It can include various aspects of the process such as human
interaction, programming, productivity, teamwork, and other factors
Peopleware refers to the role of people in the computing process.
While hardware and software make up a computer system, both are designed to be
used by humans. Therefore, peopleware is sometimes considered the third component
of computing. Peopleware can refer to many different things, including computer
engineers, programmers, individual computer users, or groups of people. Anyone who
designs, develops, or uses computer systems plays an important role in the computing
process and may be considered peopleware.

Firmware is a software program or set of instructions programmed on

a hardware device. It provides the necessary instructions for how the
device communicates with the other computer hardware. But how can
software be programmed onto hardware? Good question. Firmware is
typically stored in the flash ROM of a hardware device. While ROM is
"read-only memory," flash ROM can be erased and rewritten because it
is actually a type of flash memory.

Simply said, firmware is software that makes hardware work. Firmware

consists of programs written by software developers to make hardware
devices "tick". Without firmware, most of the electronic devices we use daily
wouldn't be able to work. Firmware is the software responsible for allowing our
hardware devices to communicate with each other and do what they are
supposed to do.

For example, did you know that a simple traffic light has firmware on it? Yes it
does and the firmware is what tells it to change the lights at regular intervals.
Without firmware, the traffic light would be just a "stupid" mast, placed on the
side of the road, doing nothing except looking pretty.

software is a collection of instructions that enable the user to interact

with a computer, its hardware, or perform tasks. Without software,
computers would be useless. For example, without your
Internet browser, you could not surf the Internet or read this page and
without an operating system, the browser could not run on your
computer. The picture to the right shows a Microsoft Excel box, an
example of a spreadsheet software program.
software that is not a program.
Software Examples Program?

Antivirus AVG, Housecall, McAfee Yes

Audio / Music program iTunes, WinAmp Yes
Database Access, MySQL, SQL Yes
Device drivers Computer drivers No
E-mail Outlook, Thunderbird Yes
Game Madden NFL Football, Quake, World of Warcraft Yes
Internet browser Firefox, Google Chrome, Internet Explorer Yes
Movie player VLC, Windows Media Player Yes
Operating system Mac OS X 10, Windows XP, Windows 7 No
Photo / Graphics Adobe PhotoShop, CorelDRAW Yes
program
Presentation PowerPoint Yes
Programming language C++, HTML, Java, Perl, Visual Basic (VB) Yes
Simulation Flight simulator, SimCity Yes
Spreadsheet Excel Yes
Utility Compression, Disk Cleanup, Encryption, Registry No
cleaner, Screensaver
Word processor Word Yes

Hardware is best described as any physical component of a computer

system that contains a circuit board, ICs, or other electronics. A
perfect example of hardware is the screen on which you are viewing
this page. Whether it be a computer monitor, tablet or smartphone;
it's hardware.
 The 10 Most Common Computer
Problems
Views: 53647
Likes: 828
Anyone who owns a computer will encounter technical difficulties at one point or another, often causing no little
amount of frustration. While some of these technical difficulties require professional help, there are quite a few
that can be easily solved, even by novice users.

Like
Before you start troubleshooting your technical problems, restart your computer – you’d be amazed at how many
problems a reboot solves. After you’ve restarted the computer, make sure that your operating system is up to
date. Sometimes the problem is a result of an old version of some file or another, which an update can correct in
minutes. Making sure that your Windows Update feature is active help in fixing bugs and improving system
performance.
If you have a peripheral that is misbehaving, try turning it off and on again. Problematic USB devices can be
switched to another USB port.
Now that we’ve exhausted the basics, let’s deal with the 10 most common PC problems.
1. Slow Computer
First, you need to know that videos or websites that take a while to load are not necessarily slow because of your
computer; they can also be affected by network interferences. If your computer is slow in opening programs,
things stall or hang while in use, or the boot up process takes more than a couple of minutes, then you might
have a slowness problem on your hands.

Like
Now, once you’ve established that the computer is the culprit, check the main suspects - A Full Hard-Drive
(HDD) and too many processes running in the background.
When the hard drive that holds your operating system (usually designated as C: ) is full, the operating system
can’t write files quickly, as it needs to search and allocate space for it. The searching process takes time, which
will result in a slowdown of your system’s performance. Delete any unneeded files such as movies, photos,
music, or move them to another hard drive. Use a program like Visipics to remove any duplicate images.
Uninstall any programs you don’t use anymore
- Advertisement -

Like
Alternatively, having too many processes running in the background will also slow down your computer, as they
require both computing power, as well as the faster, short-term memory – RAM. To clear it, click on the start
button, in the search field, type:msconfig and then go to the “Startup” tab. Now, you don’t want to unmark
anything that is a Microsoft process. What you should look for are names like Google Update,
AdobeAAMUpdater, Steam Client Bootstrapper, Pando Media Booster, andSpotify. These can be unchecked,
and you should be able to feel the difference after a startup.
2. The Internet is Slow
Feeling like your downloads, browsing, and streaming music and videos takes too long? Check that your
slowness is Indeed, network related. Go to Speedtest.net and run a test to see if you are getting your package’s
worth of speed or not.
Like
Minimum speeds should be at least 50% of the ISP’s advertised speeds, and your ping should be under 100. If
your results do not correspond with these, then something is hogging your bandwidth, or there’s a network
problem. First, check to see that there aren’t any torrent clients running in the background. They will often
minimize to the tray and continue downloading and uploading files, which uses a lot of bandwidth. Next, check
that your network card’s drivers are up to date (if you haven’t updated your operating system, this might be the
time). Next, try turning your modem off and on again. If it has no On/Off button, just unplug and plug it back in.
If none of this helped, call your ISP and tell them there’s a problem on their end, and let them fix it.
3. The Computer Keeps Restarting
This could just be the result of a series of Windows Updates, which require several reboots sometimes. Take a
look and see if the restart process mentions “Updating Windows”, if so – just have some patience, it’s worth it.
Now, another cause might be mechanical – Is your computer making odd noises? Is it unusually hot? If your
computer is not brand new, you might need to clean the dust that accumulated inside the box. To do that – follow
our computer cleanup guide. If the problem persists after cleaning the computer, run a virus scan and
a malware scan.
Once you’ve exhausted all of these tests, consider taking your computer to a specialist.
4. I’m Getting Popups All the Time
If you’re not browsing the internet, yet are still getting popup ads, it’s most likely a form of malware called
“Adware”. These are sneaky programs that can be tricky to get rid of. As in #3, run a virus scan and
a malware scan, and search online for “(advertiser name) adware removal” – you should be able to find a
solution.
Like
5. My Search Page Looks Weird
There’s a type of malware called “Browser Hijackers”, which take over your browser and direct you to sites they
want you to see, for which they usually get paid. These nasty pieces of software also steal your private
information, such as searches, personal details, and even credit-card number. Follow the instructions in #4, but if
all else fails, go to a specialist.
6. I Keep Disconnecting From the Wi-Fi
Wireless problems can occur because of several reasons (router, computer, ISP). If your Wi-Fi signal is weak, it
can cause disconnections and slowness, so make sure you’re in range and are getting decent reception. Next
check that your computer’s wireless adapter has up-to-date drivers. If none of this works, call your ISP and see if
they can help.
7. Constant “Security” Warnings While Browsing
While this may be one of the most annoying problems, it’s also incredibly easy to fix. Check that your computer’s
clock shows the correct time and date. If it doesn’t, right-click on the clock and select “Change date and time
settings” to correct it manually.
Like

May also interest you:

How to Solve 10 Common Computer Problems with Ease

Going Traveling? Install These 6 Helpful Apps First!

The Only Guide You Need to Clean Your Computer

8. The Printer Won’t Print
If your printer has ink, paper, and updated drivers, try unplugging it, then plugging it back in. If the problem
continues, double-click on the printer icon on your taskbar and check to see what the printing queue says. Click
on the “Printer” menu item in the printer window and make sure that “Use Printer Offline” is not checked – this
will stall the printing queue.
9. Email Attachments Won’t Open
If you can’t open the attachment, it’s probably because you don’t have the right software. You can always google
the type of file it is (such as .PDF, or .RAR) to find out how to open it, or use this site to find out what the file is
and how to open it.
Like
10. Why Doesn’t This Program Work on My New PC?
If you recently upgraded your computer, it’s possible that the old program is not compatible with the new
operating system on your computer. If you’re using an old installation file, try searching for a new version online.
Additionally, if you’ve changed from a PC to a Mac or visa verse, then you should know that the two systems are
incompatible, so programs from one won’t work on the other.
If it’s an online game that is driving you crazy, maybe you need to update your Flash or Java plug-ins.