International Journal of ChemTech Research

CODEN( USA): IJCRGG ISSN : 0974-4290

Vol.5, No.5, pp 2102-2109, July-Sept 2013

Dyeing Of Textiles With Natural Dyes - An Eco-Friendly

Approach

R.Kanchana*, Apurva Fernandes, Bhargavi Bhat,

Saurabhi Budkule, Santeshwari Dessai and Reshma Mohan

Department of Biotechnology, Parvatibai Chowgule College of Arts & Science, Margao,

Goa- 403004, India.

*Corres author: [email protected]

Phone: 91-832-2759232; Fax: 91-832-2759067.

Abstract: Numerous plant species are found to have an important role in the day-to-day life of the ethnic and
local people. However, it is a matter of concern that the indigenous knowledge of extraction, processing and
practice of using of natural dyes has diminished to a great extent among the new generation of ethnic people due
to easy availability of cheap synthetic dyes. Thus by keeping in view of above, the present study has been
undertaken so as to revive the age-old are of dyeing with natural dyes. In the present work, the flowers of
Clitoria ternatea (Clitoria flowers) and Targetes erecta Linn ( Marigold) and Punica granatum ( pomegranate)
peel were used for the extraction of dye, dyeing of the selected fabrics at optimized conditions, using
combination of mordants and evaluate the resultant colour fastness of the selected dyed samples to washing,
rubbing, and light. Also the antimicrobial properties of the dyes were evaluated.
Key words: Natural dye, Mordants, colour fastness, eco-friendly dye.

Introduction
A renewed international interest has arisen in natural dyes due to increased awareness of the environmental and
health hazards associated with the synthesis, processing and use of synthetic dyes. Textile processing industry is
one of the major environmental polluters as the effluent from these industries contains a heavy load of
chemicals including dyes used during textile processing. There are two main ways to limit the environmental
impact of textile processing. One is to construct sufficiently large and highly effective effluent treatment plants,
and the other way is to make use of dyes and chemicals that are environment friendly1.

Natural dyes, when used by themselves have many limitations of fastness and brilliancy of shade. However,
when used along with metallic mordants they produce bright and fast colours. Therefore, instead of using
unsustainable technology for producing colours one can use mild chemistry to achieve almost similar results.
The rich biodiversity of our country has provided us plenty of raw materials, yet sustainable linkage must be
developed between cultivation, collection and their use2. Natural dyes can produce special aesthetic qualities,
which, combined with the ethical significance of a product that is environmentally friendly, gives added value to
textile production as craftwork and as an industry.

Thus by keeping in view of above, the present study has been undertaken so as to revive the age-old are of
dyeing with natural dyes. In the present work, the flowers of Clitoria ternatea (Clitoria flowers) and Targetes
erecta Linn ( Marigold) and Punica granatum ( pomegranate) peel were used for the extraction of dye, dyeing
R.Kanchana et al /Int.J.ChemTech Res.2013,5(5) 2103

of the selected fabrics at optimized conditions, using combination of mordants and evaluate the resultant colour
fastness of the dyed samples to washing, rubbing, and light. Also the antimicrobial properties of the dyes were
evaluated.

Materials and methods

Source: Punica granatum ( pomegranate), Clitoria ternatea (Clitoria flowers) and Targetes erecta Linn
(Marigold) flowers. The dyeing of cotton/ synthetic fabric was carried out in three stages; Extraction of dyes
from the plant sources, Mordanting and Dyeing.

Pre-Treatment of fabrics (Scouring)

Cotton and synthetic fabrics were washed in a solution containing 2 g/L commercial (Tide) detergent at 50º C
for 25 min, keeping the material to liquid ratio at 1:40. The scoured material was thoroughly washed with tap
water and dried. Pieces of 10 cm X10 cm were cut and used for the experiments3.

Extraction of dye

Various experiments were conducted for the maximum extraction of natural dye from Pomegranate peels,
Marigold flowers and Ciltoria flowers. The samples were collected and washed thoroughly with water to
remove any dirt. After thorough drying at room temperature, the samples were ground into powder with the help
of grinder and the powdered samples were used for the extraction of dyes. In order to find out the optimum
extraction conditions, experiments were conducted in aqueous extraction at various range of pH (2-8) and
temperature (28 + 2 and 100 °C ) with M:L ratio 1:10.

Mordanting

Two chemical mordant’s namely ferrous sulphate and copper sulphate were used and lemon was used as a
natural mordant at 2% concentration. Mordanting was carried out in three stages: Pre-mordanting, Simultaneous
mordanting and Post-mordanting

Pre-mordanting

In this method the scored fabrics were first treated with mordant and then dyed using extracts for each plant
separately. The fabrics were treated with each of the mordant mentioned above at the concentration of 1:20 M:L
ratio for 30minutes at 28 + 2 0C. Then the mordanted fabric was used for dyeing.

Simultaneous mordanting

In this method the fabrics were immersed in equal mixture of the mordant and the dye extract for 30 min at 28 +
0
C followed by washing and drying of the dyed fabrics.

Post-mordanting

In case of post-mordanting, the dyed fabric was treated with mordants at 28 + 0C for 60 min with M:L ratio
1:20.

Dyeing

Experiments were performed in which dyeing was done at 28 + 0C and for 30 min.

Quality assurance tests of dyed fabric

Most dyes are organic compounds and are, therefore, vulnerable in varying degree to the action of destructive
agents. A number of tests are necessary to cover all the important properties of any one dye because good
fastness to one inference is not necessarily accompanied by equal fastness to other conditions. For
characterization and evaluation, following tests were performed with selected dyed abrics: Washing fastness,
Rubbing fastness and Light fastness.
R.Kanchana et al /Int.J.ChemTech Res.2013,5(5) 2104

Washing Fastness

Dyed sample was placed between two pieces of non dyed white samples (control). These three pieces were held
together by stitching round the edges. The pre heated soap solution (Tide, at 60⁰C) in the ratio of 1:50 i.e
0.5g/25 mL water, was taken in a vessel added 1.0 g of sandwiched fabric for 30 minutes Then the specimen
was removed and rinsed in cold water. The colour fastness is usually rated by the presence of the colour in
control sample 4.

Rubbing fastness

The rub fastness of the dyed fabrics were carried out by rubbing the fabrics manually and checking for fading of
color 5, 6, 7.

Light Fastness

The fabric was exposed to sun light for 24 h. The colour fastness to light was evaluated by comparison of colour
change of the exposed portion to the unexposed original material 4.

Antimicrobial screening test

Susceptibility of the bacterial strains to the natural dyes was investigated using the disc diffusion method.
Cultures used in the study were E. coli and Klebsiella sp (gram negative) and S. aureus and Bacillus sp (gram
positive). LB Agar medium (15 mL) was poured into each sterile petri dish. Then the surface of the agar
medium was inoculated with 100 μl cultures. Dyes were sterilized by filtration through 0.45 μm membrane
filters. Sterilized discs of 5 mm were each impregnated with 1.0 mg of natural dyes. Discs were placed on agar
plates, and the plates were incubated at 37oC for 24 h. The inhibition zones formed on the medium were
evaluated in mm. All experiments were performed in duplicate8.

In the next set of experiments the antimicrobial activity of dyed fabrics was tested. 1 g of test fabric (undyed
fabric as control) was introduced into the 100 ml nutrient broth inoculated with the desired microbe and
incubated at 37oC overnight for 24 h. Then the biomass of the culture was separated by centrifugation and
weighed. The reduction in the amount of the biomass between the control and the test sample was calculated
which is an index of the antimicrobial activity of dyed fabrics 9.

Results and discussion

Punica granatum (Fig 1) is from the family Punicacea. It grows in all warm countries of the world and was
originally a native of Persia. The rind of pomegranate contains a considerable amount of tannin, about 19% with
pelletierine The main coloring agent in the pomegranate peel is granatonine which is present in the alkaloid
form N-methyl granatonine 10.

Butterfly pea (Clitoria ternatea) (Fig 1) is a perennial creeper plant to the family Fabaceae. The flowers are
available almost throughout the season. The most striking characteristic about this plant are its deep blue
flowers. Major flavonol glycosides, 3-O-(2"-O-alpha-rhamnosyl-6"-O-malonyl-betamalonyl)-beta-glucoside
and 3-O-(2",6"-di-O-alpha- rhamnosyl)-beta-glucosid were isolated from the blue- flowered petals 11.

Marigold (Tagetus erecta) (Fig 1) belongs to the family Asteraceae. The principle colouring component of
marigold flower is lutein, a fat-soluble carotenoid, which is responsible for the yellow to orange colour of the
dye12.

Extraction of dye

The yield of the dye per 100 g of the plant specimen obtained under various extraction conditions are
summarised in the Table 1.Yield of the dye can be improved by using techniques like rotary evaporator for
concentration of the dye. The amount of dye extracted from rind of pomegranate was 22.5% by Goodarzian &
Ekrami 10 and 19.2% by Kulkarni et al 13. Extraction of dye from butterfly pea employing aqueous extraction
method for 3 h resulted in 4.605 mg L-1 by Sinha et al 14. Extraction of dye from Marigold flower employing
aqueous/organic solvent extraction method for 3 h/ 1.5 h resulted in 2.4 and 3.55 g per 100 g of the dry flower
respectively was shown by Padma et al 15. From Table 1, it was observed that the extraction of dye was a
R.Kanchana et al /Int.J.ChemTech Res.2013,5(5) 2105

function of pH. The organic solvent extraction resulted in poor yielding not in detectable range, the reason is yet
to be analysed.

In acidic pH solution, the colour of butterfly pea extract displayed a red colour; but in alkaline pH, the colour
changed to greenish blue. The change in colour and extraction rate of butterfly pea solution depends on the
change in equilibrium of four anthocyanin species in its petals according to the prevailing pH. At lower pH, the
red colour signified the presence of anthocyanins and in increasing pH, the colour intensity transformed to blue
colour due to the presence of quinonoidal base and the yellow colour was for the chalcone16.

Tagetes flower Pomegranate peel Clitoria flower

Fig 1 Plant sources

Table 1 Yield of the dye obtained under various extraction conditions

Dye Extraction Temp Time pH
Medium (+ 2) Yield of dye (mg/100 g of specimen)
Clitoria 2 4 6 7 8
0
28 C 24 h 200 300 260 230 230
Aqueous 100 0C 60 min 30 70 40 40 20
Marigold 280C 24 h 150 300 400 580 16
0
100 C 60 min 100 130 140 150 140
Pomegranate 280C 24 h 150 200 270 330 520
peel 100 0C 60 min 50 70 80 80 70

Mordanting and Dyeing

Mordants play very important role in imparting color to the fabric. The mordants used in combination in
different ratios gave varying shades. Better colour strength results are dependent on the metal salt used17. Strong
co-ordination tendency of Fe enhances the interaction between the fiber and the dye, resulting in high dye
uptake3. Ferrous sulphate and Copper sulphate have the ability of forming coordination complexes (Co-
ordination numbers are 6 and 4 respectively).

Functional groups such as amino and carboxylic acid on the fiber can occupy the unoccupied sites on interaction
with the fiber. Thus, a ternary complex is formed by the metal salt on which one site is with the fiber and the
other site is with the dye. The mordanted cotton cloth was immediately used for dyeing because some mordants
are light sensitive3,13. The chromatophore of the dye makes it resistant to photochemical attack, but the
auxochrome may alter the fastness 3. The resistance of a dye or pigment to chemical or photochemical attack is
an inherent property of the dye chromophore. The results of the present experiments on dying with Marigold,
Clitoria and Pomogranate peel are shown in the Figures 2, 3 and 4 respectively.
R.Kanchana et al /Int.J.ChemTech Res.2013,5(5) 2106

Fig 2 Dying with Marigold flower extract

Fig 3 Dying with Clitoria flower extract Fig 4. Dying with Pomegranate peel
Extract

Quality assurance tests of dyed fabric

Fastness properties of the fabric dyed with extract from marigold flower were reported in this work.

i) Light Fastness

Good light fastness was observed in fabrics dyed with the dye extracted from marigold flower (Fig 5). This is
due to the formation of complex with the metal which protects the chromatophore from photolytic degradation.
The substitution pattern of dyes seems to play an important role in determining their light fastness. A particular
substituent may increase the electron density around the reaction site of the molecule facilitating oxidation, or it
may reduce the electron density with a resultant increase in case of reduction. It can be seen that the structure of
Marigold flower having two hydroxyl groups, gives good fastness.

ii) Washing and Rubbing Fastness

Wash fastness of the dye is influenced by the rate of diffusion of the dye and state of the dye inside the fiber3.
The dye extracted from marigold exhibits good to excellent washing fastness (Fig 6). Complexing with mordant
has the effect of insolubilizing the dye, making it colour fast. A particular substituent may increase the electron
density around the reaction site of the molecule facilitating oxidation, or it may reduce the electron density with
a resultant increase in case of reduction. Samples dyed with marigold extract by using copper sulphate as a
mordant have an excellent light fastness followed by ferrous sulphate. Good rub fastness was exhibited by the
fibers dyed using the dye extracted from the marigold flower. Complexing the fiber with mordant, has the effect
of insolubilizing the dye, making it color fast. The fabrics dyed with marigold flower exhibit good fastness
properties5.

The whole process of extraction and dyeing is ecologically safe. The obtained results have shown the dyeing
potential of all three natural plant sources as source for dyeing. There is need for proper knowledge,
documentation and assessment of dye- yielding plants as well as the dying techniques so as to increase the use
of natural dyes 13.
R.Kanchana et al /Int.J.ChemTech Res.2013,5(5) 2107

Fig 5 Light fastness - Marigold dye

Fig 6 Wash fastness and Rubbing fastness - Marigold dye

Antibacterial property of the dyes

R.Kanchana et al /Int.J.ChemTech Res.2013,5(5) 2108

Many of the plants used for dye extractions are classified as medicinal, and some of these have been shown to
posses’ significant antimicrobial effect. The antimicrobial activities of some of these dyes are reported as potent
owing to the existence of phenol, tannin and quinone in their extracts. The antimicrobial effects of some plants
used in dye industries contribute to the longer life of the products 17.

Three natural dyes were screened for their antimicrobial activity against four test bacteria E. coli and Klebsiella
sp (gram negative) and S. aureus and Bacillus sp (gram positive) and the screening showed that P. granatum
was effective against all the test bacteria followed by Clitoria and Marigold (Table 2).

Similar work on antimicrobial activity of natural dyes were done by Singh et al 14 & Gupta et al 18. Table 2 has
also indicated that natural dyes had significant antibacterial activities towards the gram-positive bacteria and had
less inhibition effect on the gram-negative test bacteria (E. Coli and Klebsiella sp.). The cell wall structure of
the gram-negative bacteria is constructed essentially with LPS that avoids the accumulation of the antimicrobial
agents on the cell membrane 19. The above reports have confirmed our results.

Antimicrobial activity of natural dyes on substrate (fabric)

Different test fabrics showed different in reduction of test bacterial growth ranging from 22 – 57% as seen in
Table3. Han & Yang 9 also observed an inhibition rate of 70% against S. aureus when 0.01% of curcumin was
applied to the fabric and also 70% inhibition rate against E. coli with 0.05% of curcumin. The results from these
experiments indicated that these natural dyes had antimicrobial activity both on solutions and substrate.
However, further research is needed to determine the effect of dye structure on inhibition.

Table 2 Antimicrobial activity of natural dyes against test bacteria

Dye sample Diameter of zone of inhibition (mm)
E.coli S. aureus Klebsiella sp Bacillus sp
Pomegranate peel 8 10 8 12
Clitoria 8 9 7 10
Marigold 6 9 6 9

Table 3. Antimicrobial activity (% reduction) of textile materials dyed with natural dyes on
test bacterial growth
Dye Sample Test fabric Test bacteria
(1 g) E.coli Staphylococcus aureus
(% Reduction in Biomass)
Marigold Cotton 44 50
Synthetic 25 22
Pomegranate Cotton 44 36
peel Synthetic 56 36
Clitoria Cotton 37 07
Synthetic 50 57

Conclusion
The present scenario is focused more towards the utilization of the vast diversity of natural resources of colour
pigments for their use in food materials, pharmaceuticals and textiles, in place of their synthetic counterparts.
This trend is aimed at safeguarding human health as well as protecting and prolonging life on earth. Detailed
scientific studies with natural dyes have established that in most cases their properties are comparable to those
of synthetic dyes.

Therefore, if natural dyes have to be commercialized, they need to conform to the same stringent standards of
performance that are applied to synthetic dyes. It thus follows that much more research and developmental
effort needs to go in this area. The traditional practices may have to be substituted by modern, more scientific
practices in order to overcome some of the so-called disadvantages of this dye 3.
R.Kanchana et al /Int.J.ChemTech Res.2013,5(5) 2109

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