Textile Wastes

Types of Textile Wastes:

1. Pre-consumer textile waste is waste generated in the fashion supply chain before the textile
reached the consumer.
 Textile swatch waste are leftover textile samples.
 Cut-and-sew textile waste is textile scraps generated during garment manufacturing.
 End-of-roll textile waste is factory surplus textile waste leftover on the textile rolls from
garment manufacturing.
 Sampling yardage waste is factory surplus sample textiles that have been leftover from
textile sample manufacturing.
 Damaged textile waste is unfinished textiles that have been damaged, for example
colour or print defects.
 Clothing sample waste is part-finished or finished clothing samples from the design and
production of clothing, which have not been worn by consumers.
 Unsold clothing waste is clothing waste (finished or unfinished) that has not yet been
used.
2. Post-consumer textile waste is waste generated and collected after the consumer has used and
disposed of it.
 Second-hand clothing waste is clothing or fashion accessories that have been used and
discarded by consumers.
 Second-hand textile waste is any textile waste (such as home furnishings or any non-
clothing waste) that have been used and discarded by consumers.
3. Industrial Waste.
 Industrial textile waste is generated from commercial and industrial textile applications
including commercial waste such as carpets and curtains. This waste is generally “dirty
waste”. A substantial proportion of these end-of-life goods are incinerated or dumped to
landfills.

Sourcing of Waste:
 When sourcing textile waste, look for high quality textile waste to ensure that your new
design will be durable and last long in its new wardrobe. Don’t be afraid of a hole or rip.
Instead, work around minor defects or let defects become a design feature and
remember that mistakes can be beautiful too!
 If you are looking for a particular fabric but don’t find the colour you want it in, you can
reprint or re-dye it to your preferred taste.
 Last but not least, don’t forget to clean the textile waste to make sure that the final
product is fresh and new in the eyes and noses of the consumer.
 Visit trade fairs and showrooms to get a better understanding of what types of textiles
are available and how to get hold of them. Speak to the exhibitors directly to see what
 they do with their textile waste. Start up conversations — you may get more than you
can handle!
 Check out source4style.com to find more information about sourcing sustainable textiles
and check out their selection of textile waste available for online purchase. Also check
out ethicalfashionforum.com for tips and tricks to sourcing sustainably.
 Why not organise your own take back programme? Collect from your customers or
organise a clothing collection in your community and work with what you get. Many
people have overflowing wardrobes and they have no idea what to do with their
unwanted clothes. Remember to let your potential clothes’ donors know what you will
do with their donated clothes and textiles.
 Don´t be restrained by common approaches. Let the sourcing journey inspire your
designs and collections. Think of materials and sources that you might not have
considered before and this way you will create a unique collection!
What do hotels do with old curtains? What do airlines do with old uniforms? What do
showrooms do with old display furnishings? What do textile shops do with their samples if
they close down? Only your imagination is the limit…

How are recycled textiles used?

 Resold at charities’ second-hand clothing stores
 Sent to developing countries
 Turned into wiping cloths, which are used in a variety of industries and businesses
(everything from manufacturers to repair shops, construction industries, stores, and
maintenance and custodial departments)
 Processed back into fibers and turned into paper, yarn, insulation, carpet padding, and
other items.

Where can clothing and textiles be recycled?

If your town doesn’t accept textiles with other recyclables, donate your items to a local recycling
centre or charity. Nearly 100% of donated items are recycled. The recycling centre or charity will
determine which items are usable as clothing, which can be sold and turned into wiping rags, and
which can be sold and processed back into fibers to make new products. Charities and recyclers
generate revenue for their programs, and textiles get a second (or third or fourth) life.

What are specific textiles recycled into?

Here are a few examples:

 Stuffed toys and pillows become car seat stuffing and automobile insulation.
 T-shirts, sheets, towels, and clothing become wiping cloths.
 Denim becomes home insulation.
 Shoe soles become paving material.
 Sweaters and coats become carpet padding.
 Curtains and drapes become stuffing for pillows, sleeping bags, and animal beds.
 Wool sweaters and materials become baseball and softball filling.
 Velvet materials become jewellery box lining.
 Leftover fabric scraps become paper money.
Recycling Technologies:
Typically, recycling technologies are divided into:

1. Primary
2. Secondary
3. Tertiary

Primary approaches involve recycling a product into its original form; secondary recycling
involves melt processing a plastic product into a new product that has a lower level of
physical, mechanical and/or chemical properties. Tertiary recycling involves processes
such as pyrolysis and hydrolysis, which convert the plastic wastes into basic chemicals
or fuels.

Recycling can be divided into two types:

1. Physical Recycling
In Physical Recycling Manufacturing waste and post consumer products are reprocessed into
new products using reclamations process or commingled plastics waste processing. Due to
its simpler, cheaper and more environmentally friendly process, physical recycling is more
favourable than Chemical Recycling.
2. Chemical Recycling
Chemical recycling is to convert high molecular weight polymers into low molecular weight
substances. The obtained substances can be used as the reactants for preparations of other
chemicals and polymers. Recycling of textile waste can serve as a means of providing
solutions to many economic, environmental and social issues. Though textile recycling has
old history, in recent years it has assumed prime importance due to Fast Fashion culture in
western world which has resulted in over consumption of textiles and corresponding waste
generation. The least expensive and adverse effect on the environment is when a
component can be recycled into its original product, i.e. called ‘closed loop’ recycling. The
second best is when it can be used in another article which usually requires fewer
demanding properties, for example face car seat fabric being recycled into backing material.

The recycling of textile wastes is carried out at two stages:

1. Fiber Stage
2. Garment Stage
Fibre Recycling Technologies
A vast number of products are made from reprocessed fiber because much of this fiber is re-spun
into new yarns or manufactured into woven, knitted, non-woven fabrications, upholstery material or
composite biomaterial etc. The approaches include:

 Chemical processes to depolymerize nylon and other polymers

 Recovery of plastic resins from carpet fibres
 Direct extrusion of mixed carpet waste

The recycling of textile wastes on Fiber stage:

a) Yarns from Recycled Fibres: The waste produced in a textile mill is an important factor in
determining the operating cost and therefore in influencing mill profits. The recovered fibers from
waste can be used to produce blended yarns in different portions. These can be reused for the open
end spinning and friction spinning.
b) Upholstery Material from Recycled Fibres: At least 3- 4% of the weft yarn including catch ends is
unavoidable waste in every type of weaving machine. The catch selvedge yarn strip is sold at throw
away price. The fibers are separated by the garnetter who uses them for stuffing of pillows and
quilts. Use this waste for making fancy composites for floor covering.
c) Composite Biomaterials from Recycled Fibres: Hair and feathers are largely made of keratin, that
could be recovered and transformed into new materials with innovative properties suitable for
textile or non-textile uses. Protein fiber wastes such as by-products from the wool textile industry,
poor quality raw wools not fit for spinning, represent an important renewable source of
biopolymers.
d) Nonwovens made from Recycled Fibres: Depending on product functions, reclaimed fibers can be
looked upon as conventional in technical textiles, particularly in nonwoven. In all these cases,
reclaimed fibres are used because of low prices. This concerns fibers, which would not be available
at a competitive price if made from primary material, such as:

 The high-grade wool hair found in laminated non-woven used to make motor vehicle seats.
 Micro- fibre materials used for insulation or cleaning.

The Recycling of textile wastes on Garment stage

a) Used clothing market:
Recovery from the waste stream includes re-use of a product in its original form, the largest volume
of goods is sorted for second-hand clothing markets.

b) Conversion to new products

Breakdown of fabric to fibre: To breakdown of fabric to fibre through cutting, shredding, carding,
and other mechanical processes. The fibre is then reengineered into value-added products. These
products include automotive components, stuffing, carpet underlay’s, building materials such as
insulation and roofing felt, and low-end blankets.

Re-design of used clothing: Current fashion trends are reflected by a team of young designers who
use and customize second-hand clothes for a chain of specialty vintage clothing.

Wiping and polishing clothes: Clothing that has seen the end of its useful life as such may be turned
into wiping or polishing cloths for industrial use. T-shirts are a primary source for wiping and
polishing clothes because the cotton fibres make an absorbent rag and polishing cloth. Old textiles,
mostly cotton is often converted to wipes, kitchen towels, dusting cloth. If the garments are in a
good condition they are generally passed down to the under privileged people. Garments are
collected by different NGOs to distribute to the people after a natural calamity like floods.

Some innovative ideas

Suits: The brocade saris, chiffon ones and even silk etc. Can be transformed into a salwar-suit, using
contrasting salwar or churidaar with a brocade kameez.

Dupatta: Heavy dupattas with plain suits look great. Get the sari cut into a dupatta in a way that the
border is used around the sides.

Skirt: If it is a cotton sari, or a sari with border or patch work, make a skirt out of it. A wrap-around
skirt or an A-line one will look great.

Kurti: If it is chiffon, georgette or cotton sari then get a kurti or kurta made of it. It can be wearing
with contrast trousers or palazzo pants.

Scarves: After reinventing sari into an anarkali suit or kurta, there may still be some fabric left. Don’t
waste it. Make a scarf or stole out of it.

Jackets or waistcoats: For Indo-western looks, a brocade or Banarasi sari can transform into a
waistcoat or jacket. This jacket can be worn over a simple white anarkali suit or over a grey top and
denims.

Children’s clothes: The sari can be turned into an anarkali suit for children.
The little bits left over from your sarees after converting them into any of the above items can be
used for other purposes around the house. Use them to make book covers, a pair of cushion covers,
headbands or phone cases, curtain borders, bedcover borders, table mats or just about anything
your creative mind comes up with.