Beauty Wellness X

Beauty & Wellness
Class X
Central Board of Secondary Education

2, Community Centre, Preet Vihar, Delhi-110092
Beauty & Wellness Class X
Price : `
First Edition : 2014

© CBSE, India
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Published by : The Secretary, Central Board of Secondary Education,

Shiksha Kendra, 2, Community Centre, Preet Vihar,
Delhi - 110092
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New Delhi - 110064
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The constitution of India
Preamble
We, The people of india, having solemnly resolved to constitute India into a soveign
socialist secular democratic republic and to secure to all its citizens:
Justice, Social Economic and political;
Liberty of thought, expression, belief, faith and worship;
Equality of status and of opportunity; and to promote among them all;
fraternity assuring the dignity of the individual and the [unity and integrity of the Nation];
in out constituent assembly this twenty-sixth day of November, 1949, do hereby adopt
enact and give to ourselves this constitution.
1. Subs, by the Constitution (Forty-Second Amendment) Act. 1976, sec. 2, for "Sovereign Democratic Republic
(w.e.f. 3.1.1977)
2. Subs, by the Constitution (Forty-Second Amendment) Act. 1976, sec. 2, for "unity of the Nation (w.e.f. 3.1.1977)
The constitution of India

Chapter IV A
Fundamental Duties
Article 51a
Fundamental Duties - It shall be the duty of every citizen of India-
(a) to abide by the Constitution and respect its ideals and institutions, the National Flag and the
National Anthem;
(b) to cherish and follow the noble ideals which inspired our national struggle for freedom;
(c) to uphold and protect the sovereignty, unity and integrity of India;
(d) to defend the country and render national service when called upon to do so;
(e) to promote harmony and the spirit of common brotherhood amongst all the people of India
transcending religious, linguistic and regional or sectional diversities; to renounce practices
derogatory to the dignity of women;
(f) to value and preserve the rich heritage of our composite culture;
(g) to protect and improve the natural environment including forests, lakes, rivers, wild life and to
have compassion for living creatures;
(h) to develop the scientific temper, humanism and the spirit of inquiry and reform;
(i) to safeguard public property and to abjure violence;
(j) to strive towards excellence in all spheres of individual and collective activity so that the nation
constantly rises to higher levels of endeavour and achievement.
Preface
B eauty culture is a demanding field, requiring artistic, technical, and

entrepreneurial and communication skills. It is a career that offers unlimited
opportunity to express your creative abilities. Beauty culture is a people
based industry and as the esthetician you will become the part of those with whom you
will work and practice your skills.
To attain proficiency in beauty culture you should be a keen observer of human beings
and the world around you. Beauty culture is not new to mankind, it is a natural instinct
of human being to look beautiful, feel beautiful and lead a healthy life. The industry of
Beauty and Wellness has grown exponentially in last many years.
Keeping pace with the latest development, innovations, and trends in beauty and
wellness industry the course content has been developed. After completing the course
students have many employment opportunities like beauty consultant, make-up artist,
hair dressers, aesthetician etc.
The purpose of this book is to bring together all the information about skin care, hair care,
nail care, hair designing so as to become knowledgeable and successful beautician and
health consultant. We hope this book will be of a great help for vocational students in
learning the profession of beauty and wellness.
CBSE takes the opportunity to thank all the contributors, authors and the dedicated
team of people who have helped in preparation of this book.
The Board is grateful to the members of the Committee of Course for their advice,
guidance and total commitment towards development of this course. We are indeed
indebted to these academic advisors who have lent us the benefit of their rich and
insightful experience. I would like to appreciate Vocational Education Cell, CBSE; for
coordinating and successfully completing the work.
Vineet Joshi
Chairman, CBSE
Acknowledgements
Advisors
1. Sh. Vineet Joshi, IAS, Chairman, CBSE.
2. Sh. M.V.V. Prasada Rao, Director (Vocational and Edusat), CBSE.
Editing & Coordination

1. Dr. Biswajit Saha, Associate Professor & Programme Officer,
(Voc. Education) CBSE.
2. Ms. Swati Gupta, Assistant Professor & Assistant Programme Officer,
(Voc. Education), CBSE.
Material Customization Group

1. Ms. Sangeeta Jain, Lecturer (Senior Grade) (Cosmetology & Health), M.B.I.T.,
Delhi.
2. Ms. Sita, Technical Trainer, Skin Expert, VLCC, Delhi.
3. Ms. Mithelesh Chauhan, Technical Trainer, Make-up Expert, VLCC, Delhi.
Index
Topics Page
1. Unit 1 : Body Care and Wellness..................................................... 1

1.1 Health........................................................................................... 5
1.2 Yoga.............................................................................................. 20
1.3 Suksham Vyayam......................................................................... 21
1.4 Basic Asanas................................................................................ 53
1.5 Basics of Alternate Therapies....................................................... 61
2. Unit 2 : Hand Care............................................................................. 71

2.1 Manicure....................................................................................... 74
2.2 Nail Care ...................................................................................... 82
2.3 Hand Reflexology (only brief)....................................................... 83
2.4 Removal of Superfluous Hair........................................................ 86
3. Unit 3 : Foot Care.............................................................................. 99

3.1 Pedicure and its benefits.............................................................. 101
3.2 Types of Pedicure......................................................................... 112
3.3 Hygiene and Sterilization.............................................................. 114
3.4 Foot Reflexology .......................................................................... 116
4. Unit 2 : Face and Beauty.................................................................. 119

4.1 Skin .............................................................................................. 122
4.2 Trolley Setting .............................................................................. 124
4.3 Facial Massage Manipulations .................................................... 125
4.4 Basic Facial................................................................................... 129
4.5 Bleaching...................................................................................... 134
4.6 Light Make-up Application............................................................. 137
5. Unit 5 : Hair Care............................................................................... 161

5.1 Shampoo ..................................................................................... 164
5.2 Hair Conditioner & Rinses............................................................ 166
5.3 Preparation and Procedure for Shampooing &
Conditioning.................................................................................. 168
5.4 Henna or Mehendi Application on Head....................................... 174
5.5 Hair Cutting Techniques................................................................ 180
5.6 Blow Drying................................................................................... 188
5.7 Hair Styling and Designing........................................................... 194
6. Unit 6 : Beauty and Wellness as a Business Sector and

Nail Art.................................................................................. 203
6.1 Beauty and Wellness as a Business Sector ............................... 205
6.2 Nail Art.......................................................................................... 207
General Instructions
to the Students
¿ It is expected that after undergoing units in this book students should be able
to understand the structure of Skin, Nail and Hair.
¿ The students should try and gain as much as knowledge as possible during
salon visits for the topics like epilation techniques for superfluous hair; and use
of latest equipment for skin treatment.
¿ All the topics should be understood by the students and practiced under the
guidance of their teachers.
¿ All practical must be performed minimum five times or till they are perfect on
that particular topic
¿ Student should learn the name of equipment and implement and use them
properly during the practical sessions.
Unit - 1
Body Care
and
Wellness
1
Class X: Beauty and Wellness
Contents
Unit - 1
Unit Overview & Description

• Overview
• Knowledge and Skill Outcomes
• Resource Material
• Learning Outcomes
• Assessment Plan
1.1 Health
1.2 Yoga
1.3 Suksham Vyayam
1.4 Basic Asanas
1.5 Basics of Alternate Therapies

This unit will provide the student information about the various aspects of Body Care
and Wellness.
Knowledge and Skill Outcomes

The following knowledge must be assessed as part of this Unit:
• Definition of Health, Food, Classification of Food and Nutrition
• Basic exercise – Yoga/ashtang yoga
• Suksham Vyayam
• Asanas
• Basics of Alternate therapies
Resource Material
1. Nutrition – A Practical Approach – Suzanne le Quesne
2. Food Science Nutrition & Health – Fox & Cameron
3. A Guide for Health and Beauty Therapist – Gaynor & Winyard
2
4. Beauty Therapy Fact File – Susan Cressy

5. Food Nutrition & Diet Therapy – L Kathleen Mohan, Sylvia Escott\
Unit - 1
6. Diet & Nutrition – A Holistic Approach – Rudolph Ballentine
7. Food Science – Sumati R Mudambi
8. Nutrition & Diet Therapy – Ruth A Roth, Carolynn E
9. Diet & Nutrition – Katie Dicker
10. Fundamentals of Food & Nutrition – Sumati R Mudambi
Learning Outcomes
Topics Outcomes
1.1 Health You will be able to understand
• Definition of Health, Food and Nutrition.
• Functions of the Food
1.2 Yoga Students will be able to understand
• Definition of Ashtang Yoga
• Eight stages of Ashtang Yoga
1.3 Suksham Vyamyam Students will be able to understand
• Various exercises starting from (1-48)
• Exercise starting from head to toe step by
step
• Benefits of each SukshamVyamyam
1.4 Basic Asanas Students will be able to understand
• Meaning of Asanas
• Exercise
• Benefits
1.5 Basics of Alternate Therapies You will be able to understand about
Naturopathy
• Principles of naturopathy
• Elements of the body
• Definition of hydrotherapy, colour, mud
therapy and ayurveda
3
Assessment Plan (for the Teachers)

S. No. Topic Assessment Method Remarks
Unit - 1
1.1 Health Exercise: Question & Answer

Practical: Display of various food items
(Vegetable and Fruits).
Exercise: Question & Answer
Practical: Display of various food items
which contains all food nutrients
1.2 Yoga Exercise: Question & Answer
1.3 Suksham Vyamyam Practical, Demonstration and practice Visit to Yoga

Exercise: Question & Answer Ashrams.
1.4 Basic Asanas Practical, Demonstration and practice Visit to Yoga
Exercise: Question & Answer Ashrams.
1.5 Basics of Alternate Exercise: Question & Answer; Practical Visit to Spa/
Therapies Demonstration by Trainees Naturopathy centre/
Ayurvedic Centre
4
1.1 Health
As defined by World Health Organization (WHO), it is a “State of complete physical,
Unit - 1
mental, and social well-being, and not merely the absence of disease or infirmity.”
Health is a dynamic condition which can be good sate or in bad state resulting from a
body’s constant adjustment and adaptation in response to stress and changes in the
environment for maintaining an inner equilibrium called homeostasis.
Food
Any nourishing substance which is of plant origin or animal originthat is eaten, drunk,
or otherwise taken into the body to sustain life, provide energy, promote growth, etc. is
known as Food.
Food may be the most important factor to maintain the health of your body. When you
eat it, you are supplying your body with the nutrients that it uses to build and maintain
your cells, create hormones, run chemical reaction.
Nutrition
Nutrition is the intake of food, considered in relation to the body’s dietary needs. Good
nutrition – an adequate, well balanced diet combined with regular physical activity – is
a cornerstone of good health. Poor nutrition can lead to reduced immunity, increased
susceptibility to disease, impaired physical and mental development, and reduced
productivity.
By W.H.O. (World Health Organization)
Nutrition is the process which involves taking in and the utilization of food
substances by which growth, repair and maintenance of the body are accomplished.
Nutrients are stored by the body in various forms and are used when the food
intake is not sufficient.
The moment you place a piece of food in your mouth and you begin to chew, your
brain is stimulated to secrete powerful digestive enzymes that will help your body digest
the food. Once the food is broken down, the nutrients (Proteins & carbohydrates) are
absorbed in your intestines to be used by your body. When your body has taken and
used what it needs, the waste products are eliminated from your body. This physiological
process relies on thousands of chemical reactions and enzymes, and is only possible
because of the nutrients in the foods that you eat.
5
1.1.1 Review Questions
1) What is the definition of Health by W.H.O.?
Unit - 1
2) What is the definition of Food?

3) What is the definition of Nutrition?
1.1.2 Classification of Food

Nutrient is a normal diet. Food can be obtained from animal as well as plant kingdom
from organic as well as inorganic sources. Food is classified according to its nutrients
composition and also according to the function it serves in the body.
Nutrient Classification
Nutrients can be divided into seven groups:
1. Proteins
2. Carbohydrates
3. Fats
4. Vitamins
5. Minerals
6. Water
7. Roughage
Food is a must for man or of any other organism to survive. No Life on this earth is
possible without food. The desire to eat is normal and basic in human beings. This does
not however mean that an individual is eating well. Eating just any food will satisfy the
appetite and provide energy.
In the body protein, fats, carbohydrate can be described as energy yielding nutrients.
They are also called as macronutrient because we need large quantities of them on
daily basis. These macronutrients are also called as organic .Organic nutrients contain
hydrogen, oxygen and carbon. Vitamins, Minerals and water do not yield energy in
the body .Although vitamins are classified as organic nutrient whereas minerals and
water are inorganic (they do not contain carbon).Vitamins and minerals are called
as micronutrients because we need only tiny amounts of them compared to the
macronutrients.
6
Food Pyramid
Unit - 1
A Typical Food Pyramid
All Food Nutrients are required by individual to have healthy body. Food helps body to
fight against the diseases and keep everyone healthy. Right kind of food keeps body
physically, mentally and psychologically fit. Food can be obtained from animal as well as
plant kingdom from organic as well as inorganic sources. No life on this earth is possible
without food. The desire to eat is normal and basic in human beings.
7
S.No. Nutrients Sources Functions Deficiency/ Toxicity

Disease
Unit - 1
1 Carbohydrates Cereals, pulses, 1) Primary energy Low blood Breathlessness,

sugar—Jaggery, source 1 gm sugar, poor high blood
Honey, Starchy carbohydrate = 4 concentration sugar, weight
Veg like potato, kcals gain
Sweet potato, 2) Required in
Tapioca, Fruits, synthesis of
Milk-lactose nucleic acid i.e.
RNA & DNA
3) Helps in proper
utilization of
proteins
2 Proteins 1) Animal 1) Helps in cell 1. 1. Liver
Sources: Milk, growth. kwashiorkor: Damage
Meat, Egg, Fish, 2) Helps to keep Growth 2. Kidney
Cheese, curd hair, skin, nails retardation, Damage
2) Plant sources: healthy. Mental
Pulses, nuts, Retardation,
Soyabean, Peas Oedema-
water
retention
2. Marasmus,
Dehydration,
Weight loss
3. Dull Hair,
Dull skin
3 Fats Ghee, Butter, 1. Source of Lack of 1. Weight gain
Cream, Egg yolk, Energy fat soluble 2. High
vegetable oils 2. Source of fat vitamins i.e. Cholesterol
soluble vitamins A, D, E, K 3. Heart
i.e. A, D, E, K Disease
Vitamins
A regular intake of vitamins is essential to maintain good health. They are found in fresh
raw food and can be easily destroyed by cooking and storing. Vitamins are necessary
catalysts which ensure the body’s functions are efficient.
8
There are two classes of Vitamins

a) Fat Soluble Vitamins: Vitamin A, D, E, K (can be stored in the body)
Unit - 1
b) Water Soluble Vitamins: Vitamin B, B complex and C (cannot be stored in the
body and therefore must be regularly supplied)
A. Water Soluble Vitamins (not stored in the body)

Vitamin B Found in Function Deficiency Excess
(Complex)
Vitamin B1 Peas, Beans, 1. Essential for 1. Beriberi 1. Dizziness
(thiamine) Lentils, East, metabolism, brain (Nervous 2. Nausea
Liver, Pork, function and Disorder) 3. Headaches
Apples, Egg digestion 2. Insomnia 4. Skin
Yolk 2. Acts as 3. Poor Irritation,
enzyme in Concentration 5. Pain in
converting and Memory Joints and
glucose into Bones
energy 6. Coma
Vitamin B2 Liver, Milk, 1. Helps with the 1. Cracks 1. Excess b2

(Riboflavin) Meat, Fish Roe, oxidation of foods and sores in is excreted
Eggs, Green to provide energy corners of through urine
Vegetable 2. Helps prevent mouth and (causing it to
dermatitis and eyes turn in yellow
skin eruption 2. Hair loss colour)
3. Slows 3. 2. Numb
cholesterol Sluggishness, or burning
production memory loss sensation over
4. Healthy skin skin
and good vision 3. Itchy Skin
9
Vitamin B 12 Liver, Kidney, 1. Essential For 1. Pernicious 1. Mild

(cobalamins) Milk, Eggs, Production of Anemia Diarrhea
Unit - 1
Cheese, Pork, Anemia 2. Nerve 2. Swelling of

Beef, Lamb, 2. Protects Our Degeneration Body
Sardines. Nerves 3. Menstrual 3. Heart
Difficult to find 3. Helps In Disorders Failure
in Vegetable Synthesis of 4. Pulmonary
Source Protein Oedema
Vitamin B Green Leafy 1. Beneficial In 1. Anemia 1. Nausea

(Folic acid) Vegetables, Early Stages Of 2. Weakness 2. Loss of
Liver, Kidney, Pregnancy To And Fatigue Appetite
Eggs, Beetroot, Help Prevent 3. Prematurely 3. Unpleasant
Asparagus, Growth Disorders Graying Of Taste In Mouth
Avocado 2. Prevents Hair 4. Insomnia
Broccoli Pellagra (Scaly 4. Miscarriage
Dermatitis, And Premature
Diarrhea, Birth
Depression)
Vitamin C Citrus Fruits, 1. Vital for 1. Scurvy 1. Bloatedness

(ascorbic Tomatoes, Kiwi Supporting for (Bleeding of 2. Diarrhea
acid) Fruit, Potato Immune System Gums) 3. Frequent
Skins, Sprouted and Antibody 2. Frequent Urination
Seeds and Production Cold and 4. High Blood
Beans 2. Detoxifies Infections Sugar Levels
Heavy Metals and 3. Nose Bleeds 5. Increases
Carcinogens 4. Slow Wound The Risk
3. Aids Absorption Healing of Kidney
of Iron 5. Anaemia Stones.
4. Produces Antis and Premature
Stress Hormones Ageing
5. Reduces
Cholesterol Level
10
B. Fat Soluble Vitamins (Stored in body)

Vitamins Sources Functions Deficiency Excess Diagrams
Unit - 1
Vitamin A Carrots, Milk, 1. Essential 1. Night Blindness 1. Nausea
(Keratin or Lettuce, Egg for Promoting 2. Dry Flaky Skin 2. Vomiting
retinol) Yolk, Fish, Liver Vision, and 3. Acne 3. Dizziness
Yellow or Orange Growth 4. Frequent Cold 4. Blurred
Colored Fruits 2. Supporting And Infections Vision
and Vegetables Immune
Which Contain System and
Beta Carotene Maintenance
of Skin
Vitamin D Exposure 1. Acts As 1. Osteoporosis 1. Severe

(Calciferol) to Sunlight, Antioxidant 2. Rickets Depression
Fish Liver Oil, and 3. Hypocalcemia 2. Over
Salmon, Tuna, Promotes 4. Malnutrition Absorption
Eggs Absorption of of Calcium in
Calcium and Digestive Tract
Phosphorous
2. Necessary
for Strong
Bones and
Teeth
Vitamin E Wheat Gram, 1. It Fights 1.Loss of Muscle Increased Risk
(Tocopherol) Egg Yolk Against Free Tone of Developing
Radicals and Chronic
Therefore it Diseases
is Called as
Antioxidant
11
Vitamin K Green Leafy 1. Essential 1. Prolonged Increases Risk

(Phyllo- Vegetables, for Clotting Time of Kidney and
Unit - 1
quinone) Lettuce, Production of 2. Excess Nose Heart Diseases

Cabbage Family, Prothrombin Bleeding, Gum
Corns, Potatoes, (Blood Bleeding
Tomatoes Clotting) 3. Heavy
2. Helps in Menstrual Flow
Normal Liver
Functions
3. Aids in
Reducing
Excessive
Menstrual
Flow
Minerals
Are inorganic (i.e. not living) and produce no energy value, however they are important
in maintain health and are vital for our existence. In a normal carried diet there should
be no deficiency apart from possible iron and calcium during pregnancy and lactation
(breast feeding). Several mineral salts are required by the body in large amounts and
others in traces (trace elements). Deficiency of minerals can result in food consumed not
being fully utilized by the body to the nutritional values of foods being properly extracted.
Minerals are not dissolvable nor digested; they work as catalyst to break down foods
into a workable form. In addition to those minerals listed below, we also require: copper,
zinc, sulphur, chlorine and magnesium.
Mineral Sources Functions Deficiency Excess Diagrams
Calcium Milk and Milk 1. Builds and 1. Rickets in 1. Nausea,

Products, maintains children 2. Constipation,
Salmons and healthy bones 2. Osteomalacia loss of appetite,
Sardines, and teeth in adults 3. Abdominal
Green Leafy 2. Aids blood 3. Bone pain pain, vomiting,
Vegetables, clotting 4. Muscle 4. Dry mouth
Parsley and weakness and 5. Frequent
Pumpkin Seed cramps urination.
12
Sodium Table Salt, 1. Maintaining 1. Low blood 1. Fluid retention

Sea Salt, water balance pressure 2. High blood
Unit - 1
Processed 2. Helps in 2. Rapid pulse pressure
Cheese, Meat transmission 3. Dry mouth 3. Changes in
and Fish of nerve 4. Muscle cramps urination
impulse 5. Dehydration 4. Extreme thirst
6. Sunken
features like
sagging skin
Potassium Raisins, 1. Helps in 1. Muscle 1. Difficulty in

Peanuts, transmission weakness breathing
Dates, of nerve 2. Loss of muscle 2. Irregular heart
Vegetables & impulse tone beat
Fruits 2. Helps 3. Fatigue 3. Tingling and
Apricots, secretion of 4. Mental apathy numbness in
Tomato Juice, insulin for 5. Irregular heart your extremities
Baked blood sugar beat
Potatoes control
3. Maintains
heart
functioning
Iron Meat, Fish, 1. Transports 1. Anaemia 1. Pain in chest,

Pumpkin oxygen 2. Pale skin abdomen and
seeds, and carbon 3. Heavy groin region
Parsley, dioxide to and menstruation 2. Flushing of
Almonds, from cells 4. Breathlessness skin
Cashew Nuts 2. Vital for 5. Palpitations 3. Swelling of
hemoglobin mouth and throat
production 4. Metallic taste
13
Iodine Iodized salt, 1. Helps in 1. Weight gain 1. Thyroid cancer

Seafood, Dairy synthesis 2. Goitre 2. Severe skin
Unit - 1
Products of thyroid 3. Dry flaky skin disorder

hormones Intolerance to 3. Weight loss
2. Helps cold
in brain 4. In pregnant
development mothers it
3. Maintains will lead to
BMR. miscarriage and
still birth
Phosphorous Cheddar 1. Forms and 1. Osteoporosis 1. Decreases

Cheese, Nuts, maintains 2. Loss of muscle bone density
Eggs, Red bone and control and 2. Hardening of
Meat, Brown teeth strength soft tissues and
Rice 2. Needed for 3. Convulsion organs
milk secretion 4. High blood
in lactating pressure
mothers
3. Builds
muscle tissue
Water
Water is vital for human existence .We can live without food for extended period of time,
but without water will result in death.
Functions of Water
1. It plays a vital role in the maintenance of body temperature.
2. It is an essential constituent of all cells of the body and the internal environment.
3. Water is a medium for most biochemical reactions within the body.
4. It is a valuable solvent in which various substances such as electrolytes, non-
electrolytes, hormones, enzymes, vitamins are carried from one place to another.
14
5. It forms a part of fluids in body tissues; eg the amniotic fluid surrounds and protects
the fetus during pregnancy.
Unit - 1
6. Saliva is about 99.5% water which makes swallowing easier by moistening the
food and finally helps in digestion.
7. Requirement of water varies according to climate, diet, activities and surface area
of the body.
As a rule a person should take enough water to excrete about 1200 ml-1500 ml of urine
per day. Normal intake of water ranges between 8 – 10 glasses per day.
Prevention of Dehydration: Dehydration can be prevented by taking sufficient amount
of water as fluids. The correction of dehydration is called rehydration.
Oral Rehydration Salt: WHO, UNICEF formula consist of the NaCl – 3.5 g, NaHCO3 –
2.5 g, KCl – 1.5 g and glucose 20 g to be dissolved in one litre of potable drinking water.
Potable water is that which is safe and wholesome i.e, free from pathogenic agents and
chemicals.
Roughage (Fibre)
Adequate peristalsis occurs in the bowel only when there is sufficient residue for the
muscle wall to work on. Roughage is mainly provided by the cell walls of plants. It is
found in green vegetables, wholegrain products (cereals), granary bread, bran etc.
Fibre Diets
Fiber or roughage is the name for carbohydrates found in the cell walls of plants. Fiber
passes through the body without being absorbed and helps maintain a healthy large
intestine (bowel) and controls both blood sugar and blood cholesterol bowels. Fiber
gives a feeling of bulk and fullness; this reduces the desire to eat and therefore is an
advantage when trying to lose weight
Adolescent: Nutritional Guidelines

Nutritional factors
1. Specific changes during adolescence that affect nutritional requirements are :
• Increase in the growth rate
• Height and weight increase
• Changes in body composition
• Attainment of sexual maturity
15
2. Growth rate is different for boys and girls. Since growth is early in girs, nutritional
needs increase at an earlier age
Unit - 1
3. More food is needed by both sexes to support growth but the requirement of boys
is higher as compared to girls because of greater lean body mass, and a more
intense growth spurt
4. Adequate energy and good quality protein is vital for both boys and girls to meet
the needs of the growth spurt
5. Due to rapid growth and bone mineralization, adequate calcium is important
6. Iron is especially important for adolescent girls due to menstrual losses
7. Need for iodine is increased in adolescence
A day’s sample diet plan for a 14 year old boy

Personal data
Age 14 years
Sex Male
SES MIG
Food Habits Non-veg
Recommended Dietary Allowances

Energy 2750 Kcal
Protein 54 gm
Calcium 800 mg
Thiamine 1.2 mg
Food Exchange Plan

Food Groups No. of Energy Protein Carbohydrate (g) Fat (g)
Exchange (Kcal) (g)
Milk 2 340 16 24 20
Meat 2 140 14 - 10
Pulse 2 200 14 34 -
Cereal 15 1050 30 225 -
Vegetable A 1 - - - -
16
Food Groups No. of Energy Protein Carbohydrate (g) Fat (g)

Exchange (Kcal) (g)
Unit - 1
Vegetable B 3 120 6 21 -
Fruit 2 80 - 20 -
Sugar 8 160 - 40 -
Fat 8 360 - - 40
Distribution of Exchanges & Menu Plan

Meal Exchanges No. Menu
Milk 0.7
Meat 1 Porridge
Breakfast
Cereal 1 Boiled egg
Sugar 3
Pulse 1 Dry dal
Cereal 3 Spinach paranthas
Mid Morning Vegetable A 0.5 Orange
Fruit 1
Fat 3
Milk 0.4 Kadhi
Pulse 1 Stuffed brinjals
Cereal 4 Boiled rice
Lunch
Vegetable A 0.5 Salad
Vegetable B 1
Fat 2
Milk 0.4 Cold coffee
Cereal 2.5 Vegetable cutlets
Tea Vegetable B 0.5
Sugar 2
Fat 1
Milk 0.5 Pea keema curry
Meat 1 Cauliflower & potato
Cereal 4.5 vegetable
Dinner Veg B 1.5 Chapatti
Fruit 1 Fruit custard
Sugar 3
Fat 2
17
A day’s sample diet plan for a 14 year old girl
Personal data
Unit - 1
Age 14 years
Sex Female
SES MIG
Food Habits Ovo-vegetarian
Recommended Dietary Allowances

Energy 2330 Kcal
Protein 51.9 gm
Calcium 800 mg
Iron 27 mg
Food Exchange Plan
Food No. of Energy Protein (g) Carbohydrate Fat (g)

Groups Exchange (Kcal) (g)
Milk 2 340 16 24 20
Meat 1 70 7 - 5
Pulse 2 200 14 34 -
Cereal 14 980 28 168 -
Vegetable A 2 - - - -
Vegetable B 3 120 6 21 -
Fruit 2 80 - 20 -
Sugar 8 160 - 40 -
Fat 7 315 - - 35
18
Distribution of Exchanges & Menu Plan
Meal Exchanges No. Menu
Unit - 1
Breakfast Milk 1 Porridge
Meat 1 Boiled egg
Cereal 1
Sugar 3
Mid Morning Cereal 2 Spinach paranthas

Vegetable A 0.5 Orange
Fruit 1
Fat 2
Lunch Milk 0.4 Kadhi

Pulse 1 Stuffed brinjals
Cereal 4 Boiled rice
Vegetable A 0.5 Salad
Vegetable B 1
Fat 2
Tea Milk 0.4 Cold coffee

Cereal 2.5 Vegetable cutlets
Vegetable B 0.5
Sugar 2
Fat 1
Dinner Milk 0.5 Pea Nutrinugget curry

Pulse 1 Cauliflower & potato vegetable
Cereal 4.5 Chapatti
Veg B 1.5 Fruit custard
Fruit 1
Sugar 3
Fat 2
19
Calorie calculator–as per NIN

Activity Zones Examples of Activities Energy (Kcal/min)
Unit - 1
1 Sleeping, Resting, Relaxing 1.0

2 Sitting (Light activities); eating, reading writing, 1.5
listening, talking
3 Standing, standing (Light activity), washing face, 2.3
shaving, combing, watering plants
4 Walking (Slow), driving, dusting, bathing, dressing, 2.8
marketing, childcare
5 Light manual work, sweeping, cleaning utensils, 3.3
washing clothes, other house chores
6 Warm-up & recreational activities, walking up/down 4.8
stairs, cycling, fetching water
7 Manual work (moderate pace), loading/unloading, 5.6
walking with load, harvesting, carpentry, plumbing
8 Practice of non-competitive sport/games, cycling (15 6.0
kmph), gymnastics, swimming, digging
9 High intense manual work & sports activities – 7.8
tournaments, wood cutting, carrying heavy loads,
running, jogging
Review Questions
Q.1) Write down the names of food nutrients?
Q.2) Write down the resources of carbohydrates?
Q.3) What are the sources of fats?
Q.4) What is the place of roughage in the food?
Q.5) List down the types of Vitamins.
1.2 Yoga
Yoga means “union” a sum of unity of two entities. Here it means the unison of self with
God. It has been developed and practiced for thousands of years by our Sages and this
is now known world over as a part of Indian Culture. It was first presented in a formal
20
and systematic written work by Great Patanjali. The term Yoga was defined by sage
Patanjali as “Chitta-Vriti-Nirodh”, which means as: Mind – its Fluctuations – and Control.
Unit - 1
The word ‘Yoga’ is derived from the Sanskrit root ‘yuj’ which means to join, to direct and
concentrate the attention in order to use it for meditation. It is the communion of the
human soul with Divinity. It provides us physical, mental, and spiritual well-being with a
long life.
Path & Principles of Yoga

Ashtangyog
There are different ways to reach a desired common destination. In Yogic discipline
there are four paths in an order of Yoga-Karma, Raja, Bhakti, and Jnana-all leading
to the same centre of consciousness, Patanjalievolved eight stages on the path Yoga
leads the individual from ignorance to knowledge, from darkness to light and from death
to immortality.
• Yama • Niyama • Asanas
• Pranayama • Pratyahara • Dharana
• Dhyana • Samadhi
Review Exercise
A. What do you understand by the termYoga?
B. What are the eight limbs of AshtangYoga?
1.3 Yogic Suksma Vyayama/Light Excersises

1 Uccarana-sthalatathaVisuddha-cakra-Suddhi (Clearing the Pharynx)
2 Yogic prarthana (Prayer)
3 Buddhi-tatha-Dhrti-Sakti-Vikasaka (Developing the Mind and Will-power)
4 Smarana-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the Memory)
5 Medha-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the Intellect)
6 Netra-sakti-vikasaka (Improving the Eye-sight)
7 Kapola-sakti-vardhaka (rejuvenating the Cheeks0
8 Karna-sakti-vardhaka (Improving the power of Hearing)
9 Griva-sakti-vikasaka (Strengthening the Neck) [1]
12 SkandhatathaBahu-mula-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the strength of the Shoulder-
blades and joints)
13 Bhuja-bandha-sakti-vikasaka (Strengthening the Upper arms)
21
14 Kaphoni-sakti-vikasaka (Strengthening the Elbow)

15 Bhuja-balli-sakti-vikasaka (Strengthening the Fore-arms)
Unit - 1
16 Purna-bhujasakti-vikasaka (Developing the Arms)

17 Mani-bandha-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the Wrists)
18 Kara-prstha-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the back of the Hands)
19 Kara-tala-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the palms)
20 Anguli-mula-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the Finger-joints)
21 Anguli-sakti-vikasaka (Strengthening the Fingers)
22 Vaksa-sthala-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the Chest) [1]
23 Vaksa-sthala-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the Chest) [2]
24 Udara-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the Abdominal muscles)-Ajagari[1]
25 Udara-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the Abdominal muscles) [2]
33 Udara-sakti-vikasaka-Nauli (Developing the Abdominal muscles) [10]
34 Kati-sakti-vikasaka (Strengthening the Back) [1]
35 Kati-sakti-vikasaka (Strengthening the Back) [2]
36 Kati-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the strength of the Back) [3]
39 Muladhara-cakra-suddhi (Toning up the Bowels)
40 UpasthatathaSvadhisthana-cakra-suddhi (Cleansing and toning up the Bowels)
41 Kundalini-sakti-vikasaka (Developing thepower of the Mystic coil)-(Kundalini)
42 Jangha-sakti-vikasaka (Developing theThighs) [1]
43 Jangha-sakti-vikasaka (Developing theThighs) [2]
44 Janu-sakti-vikasaka (Strengthening theKnees)
45 Pindali-sakti-vikasaka (Developing theCalves)
46 Pada-mula-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the strength of the Soles)
47 Gulpha-pada-prstha-pada-tala-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the strength of Ankles and
the Feet)
48 Padanguli-sakti-vikasaka (Developing the Toes)
Yogic Suksma Vyayama
1. Uccarana-Sthala Tatha Visuddha-Cakra-Suddhi

Posture: With your feet together and body erect, tilt your head slightly backward while
keeping your eyes wide open and your mouth closed. The chin must be 2½” above the
22
sterna notch (the cavity at the base of

the throat) and held in to be in line with
Unit - 1
the eyes.
Exercise: Let your arms hang normally
by the side. Concentrating on your
vocal chords (larynx) inhale and exhale
deeply and rapidly through the nose
with the bellows effect.
Benefits: The rapidity and force of the
breathing result in clearing, drying and
ventilating the air passages. It clears
the pharynx of phlegm. Lisping can
be overcome and the voice becomes
stronger and more resonant. The
exercise is particularly beneficial to
singers.
Uccarana-SthalaTathaVisuddha-Cakra-Suddhi
2. Prarthana
Posture: With eyes closed, feet together, the
body erect, fold your hands with the thumbs on
the throat-cavity (sterna-notch) and the forearms
pressed against the chest.
Exercise: Concentrate your mind on the Supreme
Being. As soon as you have attained this mental
state, relax the pressure of your forearms and palms.
As long as you are unsuccessful in achieving this
state of mental concentration, keep the forearms
pressed against the chest.
Benefits: It gives strength to triumph over worldly
passions and improves concentration power.
Prarthana
23
3. Buddhi-Tatha-Dhrti-Sakti-
Vikasaka
Unit - 1
Posture: With your feet together, the

body erects and the mouth closed,
tilt you head back as far as it will go
and keep the eyes wide open.
Exercise: Concentrating on the
crown of your head, in-hale and
exhale rapidly and vigorously
through the nose with the bellows.
Benefits: This exercise develops
the mind and will power.
Buddhi-Tatha-Dhrti-Sakti-Vikasaka
4. Smarana-Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: The same as in exercise No. 3
but instead of tilting the head backward it
has to be held in the normal position and
the eye must focus on a spot 5 ft. front of
the toes.
Exercise: Concentrate on the Brahma-
randhra, which is the Yogic name for the
area just under the anterior fontenellae
and through the nose inhale and exhale
vigorously. 5 times to begin with.
Benefits: This helps to improve mental
fatigue and memory. It’s useful for those
whose work causes mental strain and
nervous exhaustion.
Smarana-Sakti-Vikasaka
24
5. Medha-Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: Close your eyes, keeping your feet together
Unit - 1
and your back erect. Your chin should be lowered to
rest on the sternal notch.
Exercise: According to Yogic science, the centre of
intellectual vigour is in the depression at the back of
the neck. Concentrate on this with all the force you
possess. Then start the bellows breathing exercise
inhaling and exhaling with equal force. In the beginning
5 times.
Benefits: By doing the Jālandharabandha exercise
which contracts the cavity of the throat, the nectar that
drips from the thousand-petal-lotus is not burnt up in
the digestive system, and by controlling the life-force,
kindles the kundalinī.
Medha-Sakti-Vikasaka
6. Netra-Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: Stand with your feet close
together, your back erect and your head
tilted back as far as it will go.
Exercise: Concentrate with all your
will, while looking at the spot between
your two brows without blinking. The
eyes must squint in doing so. When
your eyes feel tired or start watering,
discontinue the exercise and resume it
after a short rest. For five minutes in
the beginning.
Benefits: This exercise produces
Netra-Sakti-Vikasaka
stimulation of the nasociliaryplexus of
the autonomic nervous system, as well
25
as on the fibres of the nerves moving the eye-ball and internal structures of the eye. It
improves the muscular power, balance and co-ordination of the various muscles that
Unit - 1
move the eye-ball.

“This trātaka exercise cures all the diseases of the eyes, and prevents drowsiness. One
should keep this trātaka exercise secret like a well-guarded treasure.”
7. Kapola-Sakti-Vardhaka
Posture: With feet close
together and standing erect,
joint the tips of the fingers
and close the nostrils with
the two thumbs.
Exercise: Keeping the eyes
open and pouting your lips (in
the shape of a crow’s beak),
suck in the air vigorously
through the mouth with a
sibilant sound and blow out
your cheeks. Now close
your eyes and with your chin
resting against the cavity of
your throat (sternal notch), Kapola-Sakti-Vardhaka
hold your breath as long as
you can. Let the neck return to the normal posture, open your eyes, and exhale through
the nose slowly and effortlessly. In the beginning five times.
Benefits: The Kakimudra depends on aeration and oxygenation of the oral cavity. Since
in normal breathing the mouth remains closed and fresh air does not enter it, germs
multiply unteeth, gums etc., it must have a beneficial effect and many oral infections
would be prevented and cured.
It gives your cheeks a fresh bloom. The teeth become stronger. Pyorrhoea, caries and
halitosis are cured. Sunken cheeks fill up gradually and once again look normal. Pimples,
boils etc. disappear
8. Karna-Sakti-Vardhaka
Posture: With the feet close together, stand erect.
26
Exercise: Close your mouth, plug your ears with the thumbs and place your index
fingers on your eyes which should be kept shut. Your middle and third fingers should
Unit - 1
encircle the mouth which should pout so as to resemble the beak of a crow. Now suck
in the air, blowing out your cheeks and lower your chin to rest on the cavity of your
throat. Hold the breath as long as possible. Then let your neck go back to the normal
posture and while doing so open your eyes gradually and at the same time exhale
through the nose.
Karna-Sakti-Vardhaka
Note that while holding the breath the cheeks should be kept fully puffed out.
Benefits: The pressure inside the mouth forces air through the pharyngo-tympanic
tube (eustacin tube) which connects the mouth cavity with the middle ear. The healthy
functioning of this tube is essential for equalization of pressure inside and outside the
ear. Without this the free vibrations of the ear drum cannot take place, which with result
in defective hearing.
The Jalandharabandha (bent neck) which forms part of the whole process ensures
stimulation of the endocrine glands as well as the nervous components, both somatic
and autonomous, situated in this region. This exercise will cure many ailments of the ear
and also impaired hearing.
27
9. Griva Sakti-Vikasaka (1)

Posture: Keeping your feet together, stand
Unit - 1
erect.
Exercise ‘1’: Relaxing your neck, turn your
head with a jerk first towards your right
shoulder, then towards your left shoulder. In
the beginning 10 times.
Exercise ‘2’: Standing erect, jerk your head
first forward, then backward. When it goes
back it should touch the nape of your neck.
When it is forward your chin should touch the
sternal notch. Keep breathing normally. 10
times to begin with.
GrivaSakti-Vikasaka (1)
10. Griva Sakti-Vikasaka [2]

Posture: Keep your feet close together,
your back straight, your mouth closed and
your eyes wide open.
Exercise: Keep your chin in and rotate
the head left to right and then right to left
alternately. Breathe normally. Try to make
your ear touch shoulder, taking particular
care to avoid raising the shoulder. Five
28
11. Griva Sakti-Vikasaka [3]

Posture: Keeping your feet close together, stand
Unit - 1
straight.
Exercise: Inhale and exhale through the nose
(“Bellows effect”) making the veins of your neck stand
out. Blow out your stomach while inhaling, draw it in
while exhaling. 25 times to begin with.
Benefits: These three exercises strengthen the neck
and beautify it. Diseases peculiar to the throat, such as
tonsillitis, laryngitis, pharyngitis etc. can be checked.
The voice becomes resonant and speech defects such
as lisping and stammering are completely removed.
With perseverance, this exercise, in conjunction with a
couple of others, yields marvelous results in cases of
dumbness. Singers will derive great benefit from it.
12. Skandha Tatha Bahu-Mula-Sakti-

Vikasaka
Posture: Feet close together, your back
straight, your fingers clenched into fists with
the thumbs tucked in.
Exercise: With your mouth pouting and
forming the shape of a crow’s beak, such in
air, blowing out your cheeks and hold your
breath with your chin resting on the sternal
notch. While holding your back straight move
the shoulders vigorously an stiffly up and
down, in a pumping motion. The arms should
be kept rigidly straight at the side. Assume
the normal posture and straightening your
neck, open your eyes and exhale gradually
SkandhaTathaBahu-Mula-Sakti-Vikasaka through the nose. Repeat the process five
times to being with.
29
Benefits: The bones, blood vessels, the muscles and the nerves in the shoulders are
toned up.
Unit - 1
13. Bhuja-Bandha-Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: Keep your feet close together,
your hands formed into fists with the
thumbs tucked in. Bend the elbows and
raise the forearms at an angle of 90.
Exercise: Throw your arms vigorously
forwards and backwards at shoulder
level. The elbows must not go further
back than the starting position. When
pushed, the arms should be parallel
to the ground. Breathe normally. In the
beginning 25 times.
Benefits: Arms, which are under-
developed with weak biceps, will Bhuja-Bandha-Sakti-Vikasaka
develop good muscles. Heavy arms will
become slender. The elbow-joints will receive unexpected strength; deformities of the
arms and the shoulders will be cured. Constant practice of this exercise will make the
arms like an elephant’s trunk, and will be just as strong.
14. Kaphoni-Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: Keeping the feet close together and standing straight, clench your fists with
your thumbs tucked in the palms must come up to the level of the shoulders and then
down straight. The elbows should remain stationary. The palms must not touch the
shoulder when going up, nor touch the thighs when coming down.
Exercise ‘1’: Raise your clenched fists forward to the level of the shoulders with a jerk,
holding the upper arm stiff. Then bring them down, reverting to the original position. In
the beginning 5 times.
Posture ‘B’: Keep your feet together, your body straight and your palms open and
turned front with the fingers close together.
Exercise ‘2’: Repeat the exercise ‘1’ jerking your arms from the elbow up and down as
before.
30
When doing this exercise,
Unit - 1
Kaphoni-Sakti-Vikasaka
Benefits: This exercise cures malformation of the elbows and strengthens the joints.
The circulation of blood in the arteries in accelerated bringing fresh strength to the entire
length of the forearm beginning from the elbow. Constant practice gives women rounded
forearms while those of men acquire strength.
15. Bhuja-Valli-Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: Feet together, the body straight, the arms by the sides.
Exercise ‘1’: Begin with your right arm. Let in hang relaxed; then raise it sideways
above your head with the palm outward. Bring it down in the same manner. The arm
must not touch the head when going up, or the thigh when coming down. Palms must
be open, with the fingers together.
Exercise ‘2’: Repeat the exercise with your left arm.
Exercise ‘3’: Now bring both arms into action. Both should go up and come down
together but the arms should not touch the head nor the hands touch each other.
Benefits: Regular practice gives great strength to the arms while improving their
shape.
31
Unit - 1
Bhuja-Valli-Sakti-Vikasaka
16. Purna-Bhuja-Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: Keep the feet together, body erect, the hands clenched into fists with the
thumbs tucked in.
Exercise ‘1’: Inhaling through the nose and holding your breath, swing your right arm
forward and backward in a circle as many times as you can. When you cannot hold your
breath any longer stop with your arm bent at the elbow and breathe out forcefully while
thrusting your arm forward at shoulder level.
Exercise ‘2’: Repeat the exercise ‘A’ in reverse, swinging the arm backward and then
forward.
Exercise ‘3’: Now repeat the exercise ‘A’ with the left arm.
Exercise ‘4’: repeat the exercise ‘B’ with the left arm.
32
Exercise ‘5’: With both hands clenched into fists, let both your arms describe a full
upward circle, and exhale with a hissing sound.
Unit - 1
Exercise ‘6’: The same as exercise ‘e’ in reverse.
Purna-Bhuja-Sakti-Vikasaka
Benefits: This set of exercises tones up the nerves. The arms and hands become more
shapely. The entire length of the arm becomes stronger.
17. Mani-Bandha-Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: Stand with feet close together, with the body straight. Stretch out your two
arms straight in front of you at shoulder level, keeping them parallel to the ground.
Exercise ‘1’: With loosely clenched fists, let your wrists move the fists up and down with
force. While bringing your first up and down, try to touch the forearm. The arms should
be kept as stiff as possible. Five times to begin with.
33
Unit - 1
Mani-Bandha-Sakti-Vikasaka
Exercise ‘2’: Raise the arms, bent at the elbow, sideways to shoulder level. The wrists
should be moved up and down as in exercise ‘1’. while doing so, the firsts should try to
touch the forearm. Five times to begin with.
18. Kara-Prstha-Sakti
Posture: Keep feet together, the body straight, the arms stretched out in front, parallel
to the ground, at shoulder level. Palms open and the fingers close together.
Exercise ‘1’: Move your wrists up and down as in exercise 17.
Exercise ‘2’: As in exercise ‘2’ of No. 17, but with the arms folded at the elbows with
palms open, fingers together.
Kara-Prstha-Sakti
34
19. Kara-Tala-Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: Keep your feet close together, the body straight. Stretch your arms forward,
Unit - 1
with the fingers spread out as far as possible. The arms should be kept parallel to the
ground, at shoulder level.
Exercise ‘1’: From the wrists let your hands move up and own vigorously. While bringing
the palms up and down the fingers must try to touch the arm.
Exercise ‘2’: With the same posture, raise your arms side-ways, bent at the elbows,
keeping the fingers far apart from each other, and move the hands up and down as if the
fingers were to touch the arm.
Kara-Tala-Sakti-Vikasaka
20. Anguli-Mula-Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: With the feet together and the body relaxed, raise the arms forward, parallel
to the ground, at shoulder level, the hands beyond the wrists should be relaxed and
drooping.
Exercise ‘1’: While stiffening the entire arm, the hand alone must be relaxed. Hold for
five minutes to begin with.
35
Exercise ‘2’: As at ‘1’ but with the arms bent at the elbow. Do for five times to begin
with.
Unit - 1
Anguli-Mula-Sakti-Vikasaka
21. Anguli-Sakti-Vikasaka (Strengthening the Fingers)

Posture: Stand with the feet close together and the body erect. Throw out your arms in
front, keeping them parallel to the ground at shoulder level.
Exercise ‘1’: Let your fingers form the shape of the hood of a cobra, taking particular
care to stiffen the entire length of the arms from the shoulder-joints to finger-tips. The
exercise will not be effective if enough force is not put into it to make the arms tremble.
Five minutes to begin with.
Exercise ‘2’: Posture the same as for ’A’. Repeat the exercise ‘1’, with the arms bent at
the elbows. The fingers should be spread in the shape of a cobra’s hood. Five minutes
to begin with.
Anguli-Sakti-Vikasaka
Benefits: All the five exercises from 17 to 21 give strength to the wrist, the knuckles,
the palms and the fingers. They are also supposed to stimulate the action of the heart.
Many minor ailments are cured and the condition of the heart improves. The exercises
are specially recommended to writers, typists, those who play musical instruments,
weavers, sculptors, etc.
36
22. Vaksa-Sthala-Sakti-Vikasaka [1]

Posture: Stand with the feet together, body
Unit - 1
erect. Arms by your side, palms turned
backwards with the fingers together
Exercise: Swing back your arms, describing
a semi-circle. While doing this, inhale through
the nose and lean back as far as possible and
remain in that position as long as you can.
Exhale slowly while reverting to the original
position. 5 times to begin with.
Benefits: This exercise is helpful in many
chest diseases. The chest expands and
becomes strong. Tuberculosis, asthma and
chronic bronchitis can be effectively tackled
with the help of this exercise. Persons
suffering from weakness of the heart should
do this exercise for five times every morning.
Vaksa-Sthala-Sakti-Vikasaka [1]
23. Vaksa-Sthala-Sakti-Vikasaka [2]

Posture: Stand with the feet together, body
erect, arms by your side with palms of the
hands turned inwards.
Exercise: While inhaling through the nose,
bend backward from the waist as far as you
can go. At the same time raise your arms
behind you as high as you can. Maintaining
this posture as long as you can, exhale slowly
while resuming your original position. Five
Benefits: This exercise is helpful in many chest
diseases. The chest expands and becomes
Vaksa-Sthala-Sakti-Vikasaka [2] strong. Tuberculosis, asthma and chronic
37
bronchitis can be effectively tackled with the help of this exercise. Persons suffering from
weakness of the heart should do this exercise for five times every morning. This exercise
Unit - 1
gives vitality and strength to the chest and back. The arms are also strengthened. Thin
persons will find their protruding bones covered with healthy fresh. Regular practice of
this exercise will keep the back straight throughout a man’s life.
24. Udara-Sakti-Vikasaka [1]
Posture: With the feet together, stand erect.
Exercise: Inhale through the nose slowly. While

doing so, distend your abdomen as much as
you can. After holding the breath in this posture,
release it slowly and gradually, while drawing
in the abdomen as much as you can, till it
becomes hollow. This exercise is also known
as ‘Uddiyanabandha’. Practice this exercise
repeatedly. Five times to begin with.
Udara-Sakti-Vikasaka [1]
Posture: Stand erect with your feet together and
your neck raised as inch above the normal.
Exercise: Breathing quickly and deeply through the
nose (Bellows effect) distend your abdomen, and
while exhaling, contract it. 5 times to begin with.
38
Posture: With your feet together, stand erect
Unit - 1
and bend spot four to five feet forward from your
head as far as it can go.
Exercise: Breathe in and out quickly (Bellows
effect) while distending and contracting the
stomach. 5 times to begin with.
Posture: Stand erect with your feet together.
Look at a spot four to five feet forward from
your toes.
Exercise: Inhale and exhale sharply (bellows
effect) distending and contracting your
abdomen. 5 times to begin with.
39
Posture: Stand with your feet together and the
Unit - 1
body erect.
Exercise: Pouting your lips suck in the air, and at the
same time lower your chin to touch the sterna notch.
This exercise is also called Jalandharabandha.
While holding the breath, close your eyes and puff
out the cheeks. Exhale so gradually through the
nose that there is no sound at all in doing so.
If you have held your breath for a considerable
time, take particular care not to blow it out violently.
That would be harmful. 5 times to begin with.
Posture: With your feet close together, stand
erect. Bend the upper part of your body forward at
an angle of 60˚ and place your hands on your hips
with the fingers at the back, thumbs front.
Exercise: Inhale and exhale sharply through the
nose (Bellows effect) taking care at the same time
to distend and contract your abdomen. 5 times to
begin with.
40
Posture: With your feet together, stand
Unit - 1
erect and hands on hips as in Exercise
No. 29 then bend forward to an angle of
90˚.
Exercise: Inhale and exhale sharply
(Bellows effect). While inhaling, the
abdomen must distend; while exhaling it
must contract. 5 times to begin with.
Posture: As in Exercise No. 29. With extending
your back forward.
Exercise: Breathe out through the nose and without
breathing in distend and contract your abdomen in
rapid succession. After you have held your breath
to the fullest limit of your endurance, breathe in
slowly. Then breathe out and distend and contract
your abdomen again. Care should be taken to see
that while you are busy exercising your abdomen,
your breathing remains suspended. 5 times to
begin with.
41
Posture: Do as in the Exercise No. 30.
Unit - 1
Exercise: Do as in the Exercise No. 31.

With extending your back forward.
The entire operation of rapidly distending
and contracting the abdomen with
suspended breathing is to be treated as
single exercises.
Posture: With feet two feet apart, place your hands on your knees and bend from the
waist to form an angle of 90˚.
Exercise: Exhale completely. Then contract your abdomen to the fullest extent. This is
called the complete Uddaiyana. This done, stiffen the arms and allow the Nauli to stand
out. Try to rotate it right and left, describing a circle. Five times to begin with. The Nauli
is the recti abdominis which form the front linear wall of the abdominal cavity.
The exercises for the abdomen depend for their efficacy on three processes:-
1. Muscular contraction of the parietal abdominal muscles specially the rectus
abdominis;
2. Stimulation of celiac and plexuses of the autonomic nervous system; and
3. Abdominal respiration.
Benefits: The Jalandharabandha and the Uddiyanabandha, both practiced in these
abdominal exercises, are likely to result in the stimulation of the thyroid, parathyroid,
adrenal and pancreas which should be a great over-all benefit to the body.
42
Unit - 1
The participation of the abdomen in the respiratory processes allows fuller respiration.
The continuous massage of the abdominal parieties on account of muscular action
improves the circulation and also prevents accumulation of fat.
The simultaneous activity of the somatic nerve, supplying the muscles of the autonomic
nervous system, provides a means for the co-ordinate activity of the voluntary and non-
voluntary nervous systems.
34. Kati-Sakti-Vikasaka [1]
Posture ‘A’: With your feet together, back straight, clench your right hand to form a fist
with the thumb tucked in. Holding it behind your back place your left hand on the right
wrist, both in contact with the back.
Exercise ‘1’: Breathe deeply through the nose while bending backward as far as you
can. Maintain this posture for a few moments. Then, while exhaling, bend forward and
try to touch your knees with your head. Repeat this operation several times. Five times
to begin with.
Posture ‘B’: As above except that the left hand should be formed into a fist with the right
hand on the left wrist.
Exercise ‘2’: As in Exercise ‘1’.
43
Unit - 1
Kati-Sakti-Vikasaka [1]

Posture: With your legs stretched apart as far as possible, arms on hips, keeping the
fingers to the rear, and the thumbs in front.
Exercise: Inhaling, bend back from the waist as far as you can go. Maintain this posture
for some time. Then, while bending forward to touch the ground with your head, exhale
gradually. Five times to begin with.
44

Posture: With your feet together, stand erect.
Unit - 1
Exercise: Inhaling, bend back with a jerk as far as you can. Exhaling, bend forward with
a jerk trying to touch your knees with your head. Take care that during this exercise your
hands do not touch your thighs or your knees.

Posture: With your feet together, stand erect with
your arms stretched out sideways.
Exercise: With your arms spread out, bend the trunk
to your left, as far as you can and return slowly to the
normal position. Then bend towards your right. Five
While doing this exercise, particular care should be
taken to see that your arms do not move up or down
and that the trunk does not bend forward or backward.
At the same time while bending to right or left you
must stretch so that the hand touches the calf.
Repeat the exercise with your feet two feet apart. 5
time to begin with. Kati-Sakti-Vikasaka [4]
45

Posture: Stand with your feet two feet apart.
Unit - 1
Exercise: While inhaling quickly, swing the

trunk and the outstretched arms to describe a
semi-circle to the right and exhale. Repeat the
process, this time exhaling with the trunk turned
to the left. Repeat this operation ten times to
begin with.
Benefits: All the five exercises for the back make
it supple and symmetrical. Regular practice
removes all minor deformities of the back. Men
and women under twenty-five can add to their
height, while those between twenty-five and
thirty will also find themselves taller than when
they started. It is a boon for short persons. These
exercises are specially good for strengthening
the back.
39. Muladhara-Cakra-Suddhi
Posture: Stand erect with feet together, the thighs pressed together and the neck
relaxed.
Exercise: With the buttock pressed rigidly together contract the muscles of the rectum
as if drawing in air through it. The breathing can be normal though, in fact, this exercises
generally results in the suspension of breathing and the very violence of the effort makes
the body tremble. Five minutes to begin with. Since this exercise is for the internal
organs no illustration is possible.
Repeat the exercise with the feet separated by about 2-3 inches. Five minutes to begin
with.
Benefits: “The inhalation of air through the rectum, Apana, results in locking it up and
with the help of this Yogic device, Apana mixes with the vital air. This fusion results in
the elimination of the products of the kidneys and the bowels, and slenderness replaces
flabbiness.”
46
40. Upastha Tatha Svadhisthana-Cakra-Suddhi

Posture: Stand erect, keeping your feet at a distance of 1½ feet from each other.
Unit - 1
Exercise: With buttocks rigid, contract and draw upward the muscles of the rectum and
of the genital organs. Breathing would automatically be suspended and your feet, knees
and thighs will begin to tremble. As this particular exercises draws upon your energy
very heavily, special care should be taken in doing it correctly.
Benefits: This exercise helps to stimulate the pelvic centre, creates stimulation of the
pelvic plexus of nerves. This results in stimulation of the hypo gastricplexus of nerves.
From both these centers, the nerve supply goes to the lower part of the intestinal tract
as well as to the pelvic viscera and the sphincters of the genitor urinary system as well
as of the anus. These exercises cure all the irregularities of the bowels, and ailments like
diabetes, piles and fistula can be alleviated. The beneficial result of these exercises is
of a lasting nature. Seminal disorders like spermetorrhoea can be effectively controlled.
Women can derive a great deal of benefit from a regular practice of these exercises which
are helpful in cases of Leucorrhoea and ailments connected with the genital organs.
41. Kundalini-Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: Keeping a distance of two inches between your
feet, stand erect.
Exercise: Hit your heels on your buttocks one after the
other, with force. Care should be taken to bring the foot
down on the original spot from which it was raised. 10
“In the upper region of the knot resides the coil endowed
with immense power. This powerful coil is the cause of the
bondage of the ignorant and the emancipation of the Yogi.”
Benefits: This operation kindles the forces of the “mystic-
coil”.
The ‘Kundalini’ is a mysterious, abstract concept of Yoga,
signifying the ‘Grand Potential’. It has not been possible
to explain it in terms of the known anatomical structures
or physiological processes, although many theories and
conjecture abound in literature. Even in spite of the great
scientific, parapsychic and metaphysical interest aroused
in this entity, it remains an engigma to modern medicine. Kundalini-Sakti-Vikasaka
47
It is generally argued that the ‘awakening’ of this dormant ‘potential’ force results from
the integration of the autonomous and voluntary nervous system.
Unit - 1
It is difficult to explain how the exercise described here car result in this unique
phenomenon except perhaps through the integration of the activity of the lower most of
the autonomous nerve plexuses.
42. Jangha-Sakti-Vikasaka [1]

Posture: Stand erect with your feet
together.
Exercise ‘1’: Inhale through the nose and
at the same time throw up your arms while
jumping up with your feet together and
coming down on your toes with feet apart.
While exhaling lower your arms, while
jumping up and coming down on your toes
with your feet together. Care should be
taken to see that when coming down your
arms do not touch your thighs, nor should
your legs bend at the knees.
Exercise ‘2’: The same as at ‘1’ but the
entire operation being in reverse. In the
earlier exercise you inhaled when the arms
were thrown up; in this one you should
inhale when bringing them down, and
exhale when throwing them up. 5 times to
begin with. Jangha-Sakti-Vikasaka [1]
43. Jangha-Sakti-Vikasaka [2]

Exercise ‘1’: Inhaling through the nose bend your knees gradually, with your arms held
out before you, parallel to the ground. Stop when your thighs are parallel to the ground
and try to maintain this position as long as you can. Take care to prevent the heels or
the toes from rising from the ground. The knees must be together. Then begin to rise
gradually, while exhaling.
48
Posture ‘B’: With your feet together, heels raised, body erect, spread your arms
sideways, throwing your entire weight on the toes.
Unit - 1
Exercise ‘2’: Breathing in and spreading your knees apart bend your knees but without
sitting on your heels. While in this position, hold your breath as long as you can. While
rising exhale slowly. Breathe normally to begin with, if it is difficult to hold your breath.
Five times to begin with.
Benefits: These exercises develop the thighs and make them shapely. You can cover
long distances without tiring. Thin limbs acquire healthy flesh, while flabby ones get rid of
the superfluous flesh. Within a very short time benefits of a lasting nature are noticed.

Jangha-Sakti-Vikasaka [2]
44. Janu-Sakti-Vikasaka
Exercise: Raise your foot forward with a jerk of the
knee and then raise it backward and repeat while
keeping the upper part of your body in the same erect
position. After doing this exercise with one leg, repeat
it with the other. When taking your leg back, the heel
must touch the buttock. 5 times to begin with.
Benefits:-This exercise is good for rheumatic condition
of the knees as it improves the circulation of blood in
the region. Janu-Sakti-Vikasaka
49
45. Pindali-Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: With the feet together, stand erect, your
Unit - 1
hands clenched into fists, your neck relaxed.

Exercise: While inhaling through the nose, squat
with your arms held out in front of you, keeping
them parallel to the ground. Your feet should
remain on the ground, with your knees closed.
Go down as far as you can. Holding your breath,
stand up while your arms describe one full circle.
Benefits: This exercise help to strengthen the
calves muscles.
Pindali-Sakti-Vikasaka
46. Pada-Mula-Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: Stand on your toes, body erect and relaxed.
Exercise ‘1’: Throwing the weight of your body on the toes, raise and lower your body
in a spring like motion. The heels and toes should be together throughout. 25 times to
begin with.
Pada-Mula-Sakti-Vikasaka
50
Exercise ‘2’: Balancing on the toes, jump up as high as you can, coming down on the
toes. During this operation the toes should be used to maximum effect. Care should also
Unit - 1
be taken to maintain the original position of contact between the heels and the toes, and
to bring them down on the spot from which you jumped. 5 times to begin with.
Benefits: This exercise gives the claves strength and symmetry, rheumatic conditions
are cured. The calves become firm and the soles of the feet strong.
47. Gulpha-Pada-Prstha-Pada-Tala-
Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: With the feet together, stand
erect.
Exercise: Stretching forward one foot and
holding it about 9 inches off the ground,
describe a circle first from to left, then
from left to right, with the ankle. Repeat
with the other foot. 5 times to begin with.
Benefits: The exercise relieves
rheumatism of the ankles and strengthens
the toes and the feet.
Gulpha-Pada-Prstha-Pada-Tala-Sakti-Vikasaka
48. Padanguli-Sakti-Vikasaka
Posture: Stand with the feet together, body erect and relaxed, and your arms spread
out.
Exercise: With the toes held together, throw the entire weight of the body on your tips.
Try to maintain your balance in this position as long as you can. Three minutes to begin
with.
51
Benefits: This exercise strengthens the feet and the toes and their joints. Deformed
toes improve in appearance.
Unit - 1
Padanguli-Sakti-Vikasaka
It will be noticed that all the parts of the body are exercised in one way or another. The
flow of blood through all the capillaries and arteries in thus improved. This is particularly
helpful for the veins in the legs and feet which are normally adversely affected by the
effect of gravity.
Review Questions
A. Sweet voice can be obtained by doing which SukshamVyamyam ?
B. Wisdom and intellect can be gained by which SukshamVyamyam ?
C. Chest related problems can be cured by which SukshamVyamyam ?
D. One can have perfect shape on Waste line by which SukshamVyamyam ?
E. Stomach related diseases and disorders can be cured by which Suksham
Vyamyam?
F. Legs and feet can be strengthened by which SukshamVyamyam?
52
1.4 Basic Asanas

1. Sukhasana: This is an easy,
Unit - 1
comfortable posture for meditation
for which one has to sit for a long
period.
Posture: According to your convenience,
sit crosslegged, placing the sole of one
foot on the ankle of the other. Ensure that
the bone of the ankle does not touch the
floor.
Keep the spinal column straight. Keep the
body tension-free. Place both hands on the
feet or separately on the knees. Keeping
the waist and spinal column straight keeps
the body from tiring.
Benefits: The body does not tire and the Sukhasana
mind remains restful. This enables one to
sit for long periods during meeting and prayers. The body does not tire even if one sits
in Sukhasana for many days.
2. Padmasana: This asana is known

as Padmasana or Kamalasana/Lotus
pose
Posture: Sit on the ground with the heel of
the left foot resting on the right thigh so as to
be as close as possible to the navel. Then, the
right foot should be placed on the left thigh in
such a way that the heels touch each other
as near the navel as possible. The vertebral
column and the body from the waist upwards
should be kept erect. Care should be taken
that the knees touch the ground. The hands
should be place in the lap, palms upward.
The whole procedure is to be repeated by
altering the sequence in which the feet are
Padmasana placed on the thighs.
53
Padmasana seems and is difficult to perform in the beginning, but it is the asana
which must be practiced by all-men, women and children, old and young alike. To
Unit - 1
facilitate it’s practiced, the great seers invented Ardha-Padmasana or Half-Lotus

posture.
Benefits: This asana relieves constipation, indigestion and flatulence. It improve
digestion and strengthens the thighs and calves. It is considered more useful to women
than to men because it has a beneficial effect on the womb. This Padmasana annihilates
all ailments. Although difficult, it is capable of being perfected by all intelligent persons
on earth who practice it.
3. Vajrasana
Posture: Squatting on the toes and placing the heels beneath the anus, the hands are
placed on the thighs while keeping the trunk and the neck erect. The asana can be
performed also with the heels placed in either side of the buttocks.
Vajrasana
Benefits: The body gets strong and firm from the practice of the asana. Hence the
yogis have named it Vajrasana, implying that through its practice the body becomes
like adamant or Vajra. Through this the toes, knees, legs and thighs get strong. it is
extremely useful for those who are prone to excessive sleep. It has proved useful for
students and those who keep late hours at night. It should be practiced for 5 minutes
after meals, when the flow of the nadis is usually downwards; the asana reverses this
54
flow and is ascends and thus helps in the speedy digestion of food. The essence derived
after the digestion of food is so whole-some and pure that the whole body, including the
Unit - 1
bones and the nadis, become like adamant.
4. Gomukhasana
Posture: Sit on the ground with the left leg bent so that the heel touches the anus. The
right leg also should be bent so that the right heel touches the left buttock. Care should
be taken that the left foot remain straight; touching the ground, and the toes of the right
foot also touch the ground. The right arm should be raised and bent at the elbow behind
the shoulders towards the back. The left arm should be bent upwards behind the back
so that all the eight fingers of both the hands are inter-locked. Then the right elbow
should be lowered as far as possible go on as usual. The process should be repeated
by starting the time on the right side instead of the left as described above. This would
result in bringing the right foot near the anus. Irrespective of which way the asana is
practiced, one knee must rest on the other.
Gomukhasana
Benefits: The practice of this asana gives strength to the feet, knees, and waist. The
arms and shoulders develop. The chief and unique characteristic of this asana is that it
is helpful in diseases of the lungs. Patients of asthma and phthisis (tuberculosis of the
lungs) should specially practice it because the respiratory movement of the lung on the
side on which it is performed is almost stopped and the other lungs work more rapidly
and vigorously.
55
5. Janu – Sirsasana
Posture: Sit on the ground with legs stretched out. The left food should then be placed
Unit - 1
on the right thigh so that the left heel is near the navel. Then, catching hold of the toes
of the right foot with the left hand, the head should be made to touch the right knee
and, carrying the right hand behind the back, as effort should be made to touch the left
heel. This is Janu-Sirsasana. The asana should be repeated with the position of limbs
reversed. The sole of the foot should be kept on the thigh. The extended foot is then held
with both the hands for 10-15 minutes daily.
Janu – Sirsasana
Benefits: This asana improves circulation of blood. It is recommended for those with
rigid bodies. It proves extremely useful in the treatment of hernia and enlargement of
the testicles.
It removes bad odour from the secretions of the body. It is very easy to perform and
equally useful to men and women.
All the different procedural modifications of this asana can be understood and learnt
from a teacher of yoga.
6. Tadasana
Posture: With feet together, stand on the toes. The arms should be raised by the side
of the ears, with the palms open. There are a number of variations of this asana. While
keeping the body from the shoulders to the feet as before, the arms can swing back and
forth, sideways or up and down at will or describe a circle, like palm leaves spreading
out in all directions from the trunk of the tree.
56
Unit - 1

Tadasana
Benefits: The body becomes well built and beautifully proportioned, nimble and agile
through the practice of this asana. Height can also be increased. This is the only asana
which can be practiced by women throughout the ten months of pregnancy, and it
helps in making childbirth almost painless and in keeping the expectant mother healthy.
The asana provides a wholesome, non-tiring, and bracing exercise which keeps the
body nimble and active and in addition makes the delivery painless. During pregnancy
women must practice this asana with great care and caution and in accordance with the
instruction of a teacher. The Tadasana is also beneficial in sciatica and for those whose
limbs are hyper-sensitive to cold.
57
7. Katicakrasana
Posture: Stand on the ground with feet twelve inches a apart and arms out-stretched in
Unit - 1
front of the chest. Swing towards the right. The arm on which side the body is swinging
should be kept straight while the other arm should be bent.
Katicakrasana
Benefits: The waist becomes slim and supple and the chest expands. It is
recommended to persons of short stature. It relieves constipation and makes the
lumbar region extraordinarily strong. The ribs acquire resilience whereby many
respiratory ailments, even tuberculosis of the lungs, can be prevented. The shoulders,
neck, arms, abdomen, back, and thighs are strengthened. It is equally useful for men
as well as women.
8. Trikonasana
When performed, this asana gives the appearance of a triangle hence the name of
Trikonasana.
Posture: Stand with feet two to three feet apart and stretch both the arms sideways
paralled to the ground, palms facing downwards. Bending at the waist, take the left arm
down to touch the right foot, the head is turned right and the right arm is held upwards
in line with the left arm, all the while looking at the right hand.
Then raising the trunk, return the arms to the horizontal position. The procedure is then
repeated on the other side.
Exhale while lowering the trunk down and inhale while it is brought up.
58
Unit - 1

Trikonasana
Benefits: The bones below the knees become so strong that it is unlikely that one will
ever fracture a bone or have a sprain. Those who have to climb a number of stairs,
or those who go for mountaineering do not tire easily. This asana gives very good
lateral movements to the spine. It makes the ankles, knees and thighs very strong and
elastic.
9. Salabhasana
Posture: Lie on the abdomen and place the palms near the shoulders. The feet should
be joined together and joined together and the body should be raised from the ground,
as much as possible, above and below the waist. The body from the waist to the feet
should be erect.
The feet should be joined together and the body above and below the waist should be
raised above the ground as much as possible.
Salabhasana
59
Benefits: The chest broadens through the practice of this asana. The waist becomes
resilient and supple. It is also very for the shoulders and abdomen. It relieves
Unit - 1
constipation and stimulates digestion. The asana is easy to perform and is also very
useful. Women, in particular, need to practice it. Just as the locusts have a distinctive
and highly developed faculty of hopping high, the practice of this asana sublimates
many of man’s faculties.
10. Bhujangasana
Posture: Lying on the abdomen, the lower limbs should be joined together and kept
close to the ground. While the body from the toes to the navel touches the ground, the
hands should be kept under the shoulders and, resting on them. The body above the
navel should be lifted above the ground, as high as possible, so that it resembles the
hood of a cobra.
Bhujangasana
Benefits: The practice of this asana relieves constipation, indigestion, and flatulence. It
is very useful for patients with chronic constipation; it is useful for cleansing the whole
gut from the mouth through the small and large intestines to the rectum.
60
Review Questions
Unit - 1
A. Padmasana is also known as __________________
B. To help digest food __________________ asana is beneficial.
C. Cow pose is also known as __________________
D. __________________ Asan is also known as Cobra Pose.
1.5 Basics of Alternate Therapies

1. Naturopathy
Basic Principles of Naturopathy

Naturopathy is a form of treatment of diseases through elements of nature. Nature is
made of five elements-Jal (water), Vayu (air), Agni (fire), Akash(sky) and Prithvi (Earth).
These elements also constitute our body. We get sick when there is imbalance in these
elements and body just reacts to this imbalance by trying to get rid of impurities in form of
cough, vomiting, fever etc. Therefore, it is beneficial to cure diseases not through drugs
or surgery, but with help of these five elements of nature. Naturopathy says that our
bodily functions are guided by nature’s vital forces, therefore a holistic approach must
be followed for curing ailments. Body has natural tendency to heal and naturopathy only
facilitates the process of healing through energy of nature.
1. Belief in nature’s healing powers and in body’s inherent tendency to heal itself
2. Looking beyond symptoms to identify and treat underlying causes
3. Adoption of least invasive and most natural ways to cure
4. Teaching patients natural ways to maintain a good health
5. Viewing body as an integration of physical and spiritual aspects
6. Focusing on prevention, maintaining overall wellbeing
Elements of Body
According to AYURVEDA elements in the body are called as
“PANCHAMAHABHUTAS”.
Pancha means five and Mahabhutas are elemental source.
61
Unit - 1
Five elements of Ayurveda
The five great elements are EARTH, WATER, FIRE, AIR, and ETHER which make up
the outer world of experience including physical body.
Each element represents a medium they are as follows:
• EARTH/PRITHVI – Represent solid which helps to give solidity and stability.
• WATER/JAL – Represent liquid which helps for flowing motion and conversions.
• FIRE/AGNI – Represent radiant which helps in perception and chemical changes.
• AIR/VAYU – Represent gaseous state which helps in subtle movements.
• ETHER/AKASH – Represent etheric form which helps in allowing interchange
between all material medium.
Location of the Elements with Respect to Sense Organs are as Follows:

• EARTH – NOSE
• WATER – TONGUE
• FIRE – EYES
• AIR – SKIN
• ETHER – EAR
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All these Five Subtle Elements (Pancha Mahabhutas) are found in the material creation,
from a grain of sand to the complex physiology of every human being. Balancing these
Unit - 1
PANCHA MAHABHUTAS in right way is the key to maintaining health and treating
disease whether it isphysical, mental, or spiritual.
Review Questions
a) What are the six principles of naturopathy?
b) Name five elements of the body.
2. Hydrotherapy
Hydrotherapy
Hydrotherapy is also called as water therapy. In this water is used as healing source.
Viscosity and many mineral components of water helps to get rid of various diseases
which are as follows:
• Spondilytis – Inflammation in cervical vertebrae
• Insomnia – Sleeping disorder
• Muscular Spasm – inability to perform particular action due to rigidity in muscle
• Lumbago – Pain around lumbar region
• Sciatica – Inability to walk due to peer pressure on sciatic nerve.
• Inflammation of joints – Swelling around joints.
63
Types of Hydrotherapy
WET SHEETS PACK – In this the body is covered with the help of wet sheet. Wet sheet
Unit - 1
can either be cold or hot depending on which condition it has to be used and then again
full body is covered with thermal blanket which induces sweating that is ultimately good
for detoxification
COLD BATH – In this the body is sprayed with ice cool water showers mainly to stimulate
blood circulation.
COMPRESS – Compresses are of two types ie hot and cold. In cold compress the cloth
is dipped in ice cold water and is wrapped around affected part whereas in hot compress
the cloth is dipped in hot water and is wrapped around affected part and external heat
for eg: infrared rays is given.
Review Questions
a) What are the types of hydrotherapy?
b) Discuss about the benefits of hydrotherapy.
3. Colour Therapy

Colour Therapy is also called as CHROMOTHERAPY.
Colour Therapy
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In this therapy specific colours according to the conditions are used so to remove energy
blockages be it mentally or physically through sense of light.
Unit - 1
Colours help to give emotional strength and balance our mind, channelizes our positive
energy into right direction. For example bright colours helps to uplift our mind where as
dark colors depresses our mind and energy.
Colours help to build our aura and are useful for spiritual healing. We can use these colours
in our day to day life which helps to bring harmony in our surrounding as well as mind.
There are seven main energy centers in our body they are also called as CHAKRAS. It
can also be called as major plexus of arteries, veins and nerves.
Colour therapy uses colours to balance the chakras and aims for stimulating body’s
healing process.
1) VIOLET – Crown chakra at the top of the head relates to self knowledge and
spiritual awareness. Violet colour governs the crown chakra .This colour helps
spiritual healing, wisdom, purifies and filters our thoughts and thushelps indecision
making process.
2) INDIGO – Brow chakra is in the center of the forehead which relates to self
responsibility. Indigo colour governs brow chakra. This colour helps to connect our
body to unconscious self and make us realize that we are part of this universe.
Indigo colour strengthens intuition and increases dream activity.
3) BLUE – Throat chakra is in situated in throat area which relates to self expression.
Blue colour governs throat chakra. This colour pacifies our nervous system and
help ability to communicate our needs and requirements.
4) GREEN – Heart chakra is situated in mid part of thorax (related organs are heart &
breast) which relates to love. Green colour governs heart chakra. This colour helps
to give and take love unconditionally so that we can love and nurture ourselves.
5) YELLOW – Solar chakra is in above the navel area which relates to self personality,
ego and intellect. Yellow colour governs solar chakra. This colour strengthens our
ability to perceive and understand.
6) ORANGE – Sacral chakra is situated in lower abdomen which relates to self respect.
Orange colour governs sacral chakra. This colour helps to remove all the inhibition
and make us independent and social. Orange colour is considered as one of the
best colour to stimulate emotionally.
7) RED – Base chakra is situated at the base of the spine which relates to self
awareness. Red colour governs base chakra. This colour helps to absorb power
from the earth and connects us to our physical body.
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For Example
1) Use of colored lamps.
Unit - 1
2) Use of bright light instead of dark colors.

3) Meditate in areas where there are plush green trees, near ocean blue or near
colourful flowers.
Review Questions
a) Describe in detail about colour therapy?
b) Write down the benefits of using orange and red color
4. Mud Therapy
In this therapy, different types of mud are used to absorb toxins from human body. Mud
is known for its healing properties due to its mineral components that is magnesium,
calcium, potassium, silicates, bromides and organic elements.
Mud Bath
For mud therapy mostly black mud, mud from Dead Sea, moor mud (mud which has
higher concentration of organic residues i.e. herbs and flowers)
Types of Mud Therapy
They are of two types

1) MUD PACK 2) MUD BATH
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MUD PACK – In this mud or muslin cloth dipped in mud is applied on affected part of the
body. For making mud pack first mud is soaked in water for at least 30 min and then that
Unit - 1
mud is applied evenly on muslin cloth.
We can use such mud packs for eyes like eye pack which helps in relaxing the eyes, for
head like a band dipped in mud tied all around head for migraine, for face mud can be
directly applied over face for better complexion and to get rid of acne spots.
MUD BATH – In this the mud is applied all over the body in lying or sitting position in
which the body is exposed to sunlight or any other external heat. This helps the mud
to absorb toxin in a better way, stimulates blood circulation and also for removing dead
skin. Mud should be kept for at least 45 minutes and after that person is allowed to take
bath in luke warm water.
Benefits of Mud Therapy

1) Skin Disorders like Psoriasis, Urticaria
2) Reduces Stiffness In Joints
3) Increases Blood Circulation
4) Help In Reducing Swelling And Relieves Pain
5) Removes Dead Skin, Deep Cleanses and Helps the Skin to Glow
6) Improves Skin Complexion
Mud Therapy
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Review Questions
a) What is mud therapy?
Unit - 1
b) Give detail about types of mud therapy and its benefit.
5. Ayurveda
Term Ayurveda: The term Ayurveda is the combination of two words AYUSH and
VEDA.
AYUSH means life and VEDA means knowledge or science. Hence the term Ayurveda
means the science of life. Thus it is equivalent to the term ‘biology’. But in real practice
the term is used to denote a system of human medicine.
Ayurveda literally means “science of life and longevity.” and is considered to be the
traditional system of medicine of India. It is a holistic system of healing that supports
healthy life style and curing the diseased condition.
Ayurveda
Origin of Ayurveda
Ayurveda is attributed to Dhanvantari, the physician to the gods in Hindu mythology,
who received it from Brahma. Its earliest concepts were set out in the portion of the
Vedas known as the Atharvaveda.
There are several aspects of this system of medicine which distinguish it from other
approaches to health care:
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1. It focuses on establishing and maintaining balance of the life energies within us,
rather than focusing on individual symptoms.
Unit - 1
2. It recognizes the unique constitutional differences of all individuals and therefore
recommends different regimens for different types of people. Although two people
may appear to have the same outward symptoms, their energetic constitutions
may be very different and therefore call for very different remedies.
3. Ayurveda describes three fundamental universal energies which regulate all
natural processes on both the macrocosmic and microcosmic levels. That is, the
same energies which produce effects in the various galaxies and star systems
are operating at the level of the human physiology–in your own physiology. These
three universal energies are known as the Tridosha.
Panchakarmas
PANCHA means five and KARMAS means treatments which go according to the second
rule of therapeutic principles.
In AYURVEDA there are two main therapeutic principles:
1) SHAMAN : To suppress the toxins inside the body and to cure disease.
2) SHODHAN: To remove toxins completely from the body, allowing healing and
restoration mechanism.
Review Questions
a) Define term AYURVEDA?
b) Explain the meaning of Panchakarma
Exercise Questions
Theory Questions
A. Asana purifies the body and mind and has preventive and curing effects – Justify?
B. How one can obtain balanced mind and body by Asanas?
C. Tonsils and throat related diseases can be cured with Griva Shakti Vikasaka –
Justify the statement?
D. ENT problem can be improved with the help of which Suksham Vyamyam? Write
names and explain in detail with benefits?
E. To strengthen lower back, what kind of Asanas is advised – Explain with benefits?
F. Why it is important to do client consultation before any therapy?
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Practical Questions
A. Prepare a file and project report on study of Ashtang yoga with detail knowledge of
Unit - 1
Asana and SukshamVyamyam?

B. Demonstrate various Suksham Vyayams.
C. Demonstrate various Asanas.
D. Demonstrate which color should be used on different chakras of the human body.
Activity
Suggest Asanas/Vyayam you would suggest to the customers.
Physical ailments What will I suggest

Constipation
Back ache
Weak Eye
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Unit - 2
Hand Care
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Contents
• Overview
Unit - 2
• Assessment Plan
2.1 Manicure
2.2 Nail Care
2.3 Hand Reflexology (only brief)
2.4 Removal of Superfluous Hair

and Wellness.

• Manicure and its benefits
• Nail Care
• Head Reflexology (only brief)
• Removal of Superfluous hair
Resource Material
1. Beauty Therapy the Foundation Level II, Lorraine Nordmann
2. Milady’s Standard Nail Technology, 5th Edition
3. Manicure, Pedicure and Advanced Nail Techniques by Elaine Almond
4. Milady’s Standard Cosmetology, ISBN-978-15625-3880-2
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Learning Outcomes
UNIT Topic Outcomes
2.1 Manicure • Identify the Benefits of Manicure

• Identify Do’s and dont’s for manicure
• IdentifyMaterial and Supplies
• Procedure of manicure
Unit - 2
• Identify the Types of manicure
2.2 Nail Care • Identify various tips of nail care, finger nail care
2.3 Hand Reflexology • Understand Definition of Reflexology

(only brief) • Identify Benefits
2.4 Removal of • Identify the contraindications of Hair removal

Superfluous Hair • Identify the techniques of Hair removal
• Identify methods of using depilatory for hair removal
• Identify various methods used (Shaving/Threading/
Shaping of eye brows), waxing of arms and legs
Assessment Plan: (For the Teachers)
Unit Topic Assessment Method Time Plan Remarks
2.1 Manicure and its benefits Exercise: Question & Answer

Audio Visual Aids; Practical
demonstration by the learner
2.2 Nail Care Exercise: Question & Answer

Audio Visual Aids; Practical
2.3 Hand Reflexology (only Exercise: Question & Answer

brief) Audio Visual Aids; Practical
2.4 Removal of Superfluous Exercise: Question & Answer

Hair Audio Visual Aids; Practical
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2.1 Manicure
Manicure is derived from the latin words manus, meaning hand and cura, meaning
care. A manicure is a cosmetic beauty treatment for the fingernails and hands performed
at home or in a nail salon. A manicure treatment is not only a treatment for the natural
nails, but also for the hands. A manicure consists of filing, shaping of the free edge,
treatments, massage of the hand and the application of polish. There are also manicure
services that are specialties for the hands and feet. It keeps the nails smooth, the skin
soft, improves the appearance of the hands and keeps the cuticles attractive and most
Unit - 2
importantly the nails healthy.
Benefits of Manicure
The main purpose of the treatment is to improve the look and feel of your hands
and fingernails. Another purpose is to clean, strengthen, shape, make attractive and
sometimes even dress your nails. The other benefits associated with treatment include
• It improves the health and texture of your hands and fingernails
• It helps in preventing hang- nail formation
• It may help in treating sore or broken skin if present around the nails
• It helps in preventing nail damages like fragile tips, cuts or splits
• Massage that often accompanies manicure helps in improving the health of the
skin by increasing blood circulation
• By improving the health of the skin, it discourages the wrinkling of the skin on
hands.
MANICURE Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s
• Wear gloves to protect your nails from detergents and chemicals, e.g. washing
up, also do not forget the cold outside and then there is the gardening and the
housework!
• Apply hand cream after putting your hands in water, also as extra treat for them at
night apply a good moisturizing cream.
• Use an oily enamel remover, as this will prevent moisture loss from the nail plate
and stop your nails drying out.
• Always use a base coat to protect the nail plate from discolouration, when applying
coloured enamel to your nails.
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• Apply hardeners to strengthens weak nails, but not too often, and be careful not to
get it on your skin around the nail (Nail wall).
• Have regular manicures to maintain your nails. Or as I said before do one
yourself!
• When filing your nails always file the nail from the outside in on both sides along
your free edge to stop splitting, at 45° angle. (Just think of them like wood, if you go
against the grain, this will cause splitting)
Don’ts
Unit - 2
• Use your nails as tools, e.g. tightening things with your nails etc. This will cause
them to break, become weak and splitting.
• Never use a metal files, as it will cause flaking nails.
• Paint coloured enamel straight on to the nail plate, this will discolour your nails.
Review Questions
(i) List the benefits of manicure.
(ii) List any 05 points of finger nail care.
Material & Supplies

• Trolley Setting for Manicure
• Bowl of warm water or finger bath
• Nail clippers – They are designed to cut the nails straight and not at an angle.
They are very sharp and should always be kept clean like your other implements.
Cut straight across the nail, not too short, always leave a small free edge.
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• Cuticle knife and clippers – The cuticle knife is very sharp and you can easily
damage your nail plate if not used correctly. Always use wet and at a 45-degree
angle, as flat as possible against the nail plate.
Unit - 2
• Nail file/Emery Boards – To smooth off the free edges and shape the nail. When
using an emery board remember that the darker side (Course side) is used to file
your toenails and the paler side (finer side) is used for your fingernails. Always file
at a 45-degree angle from the outside in on both sides. Don’t use metal files, as
these will cause your nails to flake.
• Cuticle pusher/Hoof stick – often made from metal or orange wood. Used to push
back the cuticles. Your hoof stick should always be wet so not to scratch or damage
your nail plate in any way.
• Buffing paste – Buffing paste has a gritty consistency it is used along with a buffer
to smooth out irregularities on the nail plate and give a shine if enameling is not
required.
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• Nail Scissors
Unit - 2
• Brush
• Buffer – A buffer normally has a handle and a convex pad that is covered by
leather, which is replaceable after worn; it is used along with buffing paste. Use
only in one direction. Don’t do anymore than 12 – 15 strokes, as this will cause a
build up of heat and cause drying.
• Orange Stick – If you didn’t want to use cotton buds, get your orange stick and a
small piece of cotton wool, place your orange stick over the cotton wool and tightly
wrap around. This will save you money! Please remember to use a clean tip with
every application into your pot. Your orange stick is also used at the end of your
manicure/pedicure to clean around the nails by dipping it in your enamel remover
and rubbing carefully over the enamel to be removed. You can also use it to clean
under your nails if you are using a clear enamel. But again, keep your orange stick
clean for next time.
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• Manicure table
Supplies:
• Cuticle remover
• Massage lotion/cream
• Nail polish Base coat polish & ridge filler polish
• Color varnish
• Top coat or sealant
Unit - 2
• Nail bindi stick-on jewels

• Nail polish remover or nail polish remover wipes
• Hand cream
• Sanitizing spray/towels
• Cotton balls/pads
• Hand towels
Preparation of Client & Procedure

Ensure the client is warm & comfortable
• Lighting must be efficient to avoid
eyestrain & to allow the treatment to be
performed competently.
• Ask the client to remove all jewelry from
the area to be treated, to prevent jewelry
being damaged by creams and to avoid
obstruction during the massage.
• Place jewelry in a tissue-lined bowl
where client can see it.
• Ensure that client is seated at the
correct height and close enough to the
manicurist.
• When the client is comfortably seated,
wash your hands in front of the client.
• Consult the client record card &
commence with the treatment.
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Manicure Procedure
Always remember to keep your tools clean;
if they are left dirty they may harbor germs
and cause infections.
• Begin by cleaning your hands are clean
and remove any old enamel that you
may have on your nails with the cotton
wool and enamel remover.
Unit - 2
• Decide on what shape you would like
on your nails, cut them if needed, then
use your emery board to file them.
• Take a cotton bud and remove a very
small amount of buffing paste from the
pot and smear on the top of your nail.
With the buffer, buff your nails.
• With another cotton bud, remove a small
amount of cuticle cream and apply to
the cuticle of each nail. Massage this in
circular movements.
• Soak your hands in warm soapy water
containing an anti-bacterial liquid
soap.
• Dry your hands carefully with the
towel. Put a tipped orange stick into
your cuticle remover and wipe over
each cuticle. Dip your hoof stick in
the disinfectant and carefully push
back your cuticles in movement
described.
• Wet your cuticle knife to carefully lift
the cuticle from the nail plate. Cuticle
nippers to remove excess cuticle.
• Re-soak your hands then pat dry. It is
important to remove cuticle remover
from your hands after application. Dry
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and apply a good moisturizer all over

the hand and arm up to the elbow, as
this is a place everyone tends to forget.
Give massage manipulations.
• Clean the nails with cotton wool and
enamel remover again to remove any
oil from the moisturizer that is left on
the nail plate.
Unit - 2
• Now comes the fun part, apply your

base coat and wait for it to dry. Pick your
coloured enamel or frosted enamel and
paint on, wait for the enamel to dry and
apply the topcoat to coloured enamels.
If you do not wish to paint your nails
then just quickly go over them again
with the buffer for a lovely shine.
• One last thing, use your orange stick
and enamel remover to remove all
traces of enamel left on the skin to
make a really neat job.
Review Questions
(i) List the tools and supplies used in manicure.
(iii) why do we need to disinfect the hand during the manicure?
Massage Manipulation for Manicure

Three main types of massage movements are described below:

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Unit - 2
• Effleurage: These movements always begin and end the massage sequence;
they are soothing, relaxing and stroking movements, performed in upward-
movements.
• Petrissage: These are finger and palmer kneading movements, which are both
relaxing and soothing to muscles. Slight pressure is applied with each movement,
assisting the return of blood and lymph to the heart
• Rotations: These are circular movements, applied to joints to aid joint mobility
Types of Manicure
Regular manicure: It involves soaking your hands in warm water and pushing back
cuticles followed by trimming and filing of nails. A lotion massage is done and nail paint
is applied.
French manicure: It is a rage now a days and is quite popular amongst all ages. It
involves all the steps of a regular manicure which are soaking, trimming and filing of
nails, massaging, moisturizing followed by nail paint. French manicure is differentiated
by regular manicure due to a different way of application of nail paint. A clear or sheer
pink nail polish is applied on the nail base followed by white nail paint on the tips of
nails.
Spa manicure: A regular manicure is followed by a hydrating mask or an aromatic salt
rub for your hands which is very relaxing.
Paraffin manicure: It involves use of paraffin wax in a regular manicure process. This
manicure works great for dehydrated hands or over worked hands. Warm paraffin wax is
massaged into your nails or your hands are dipped into warm wax. It makes your hands
soft and is extremely relaxing.
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Hot stone manicure: Special stones which insulate heat are used to massage your
hands followed by steps of a regular manicure.
Luxury manicure: A regular manicure with some extra pampering of warm wax massage
with mittens to keep hands soft and hydrated.
Brazilian Manicure: This is a natural nail treatment method that includes no use of
chemicals, creams or water. Specially lined gloves are used to soften and moisturize
your hand. This treatment helps to grow and strengthen your nails
European Manicure: European manicures are highly soothing and can provide fantastic
Unit - 2
results. During a European manicure, the hands are soaked in a relaxing blende of
water and herbs. The nails are then professionally shaped. Several coats of polish are
then applied to the nails with the color of your choice. In some spas, a calming hand
massage is provided.
Hot Oil Manicure: A hot oil manicure, also referred to as a hot manicure, is a relaxing
manicure type performed commonly in a spa setting. The manicurist heats up oil and
then uses it to massage the hands, nails, and cuticles. The oil is then washed off with a
damp towel and a complete manicure is performed.
2.2 Nail Care
Following points may be noted to take proper and good care of fingernails:
• By regularly pushing up the cuticles with an orange stick, more of the nail plate will
be visible, which will ultimately make your nails look longer
• By filing your nails correctly, instead of using nail clippers, your nails will strengthen
and can be easily formed into a shape that you desire.
• It is very important to keep your nails clean by washing them regularly, especially
after doing outdoor activities.
• Wear gloves when gardening or washing dishes to protect your nails from bacteria
as well as helping prevent your hands from drying out by harmful detergents and
sunlight.
• When removing nail polish with cotton wool, try to avoid rubbing too hard, as this
will put too much pressure on the nails.
• Try not to use your nails as a tool to perform other tasks as this often leads to nails
splitting and tearing.
• Apply hand cream as often as you can, eg. each time after washing your hands.
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Contraindications
• Eczema
• Puss in the nails.
• Rash, Burn or Blisters.
• Fever
• Undiagnosed lumps and bumps
Unit - 2
• Allergic to any nail products
• Nail disease
Review Questions
(i) Name few contra-indications of Manicure.
(ii) Paraffin wax manicure is recommended for which type of skin condition.
Excersice Question
Theory Questions
Q1. What are the contra-indications of manicure?
Q2. Define manicure and its benefits
Q3. What are the hygiene and sterilization methods to be used for manicure tools?
Practical Questions
Q1. Demonstrate the complete procedure of manicure,
Q2. Demonstrate the complete massage manipulation for hand and arms.
2.3 Hand Reflexology

Introduction to Reflexology
“A natural healing art based on the principle that there are reflexes in the feet, hands and
ears and their referral areas within zone related areas, which correspond to every part,
gland and organ of the body. Through application of pressure on these reflexes without
the use of tools, crèmes or lotions, the hand being the primary area of application,
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reflexology relieves tension, improves circulation and helps promote the natural function
of the related areas of the body.”
Reflexologists divide the body into ten equal vertical zones, five on the right and five on
the left. Concerns have been raised by medical professionals that treating potentially
serious illnesses with reflexology, which has no proven efficacy, could delay the seeking
of appropriate medical treatment.
Benefits of Reflexology
Unit - 2
• Stress Reduction
• Improved Circulation
• Stimulated Nerve Function
• Improved Immune System
• Increased Energy
Reflexology can assist in conditions such as:

• Allergies
• Arthritis
• Asthma
• Back Problems
• Blood Pressure
• Constipation
• Gynecological Disorders
• Insomnia
• Knee Problems
• Muscle Tension
• Neck Problems
• Respiratory Problems
• Sinusitis
• Stress Disorders
• Thyroid Imbalance
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Head/Face/Sinus
Neck
Eye/Ear
Top of Shoulders
Between the
Shoulder Blades
Spinal Region
Unit - 2
Thyroid/Parathyroid
Chest/Lung/Upper Back
Diaphragm/Solar Plexus
Upper Back
Knee/Leg/ Waistline Knee/Leg/
Hip Lower Back/Hip Hip
Ovary/ Uterus/Prostate Ovary/
Testicle Lymph Gland/Groin/Fallopian Tube Testicle
Top Left Top Right
Tailbone
Head/Brain/Sinus
Pituitary
Neck Pituitary
Lung/Heart Eye/Ear Lung
Arm
Shoulder
Stomach Diaphragm/Solar Plexus
Liver
Thyroid/ Spleen Gall Bladder
Thyroid/
Parathyroid Colon
Parathyroid
Adrenal Holococal Valve
Small Intestine Adrenal
Gland Gland
Kidney Sigmoid Colon
Kidney
Pancreas Pancreas
Bottom Left Bottom Right
Bladder Bladder
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Review Questions
(i) Write down the benefits of reflexology.
(ii) List five conditions in which reflexology can be helpful.
2.4 Removal of Superfluous Hair

Superfluous Hair
Unit - 2
Hair removal is a treatment to be given for unwanted hair known as superfluous hair. It
is a industry not in India but all over the world minting money with various methods to
remove superfluous hair. Unwanted or overly abundant hair is a common problem that
affects both men and women, for women fortunately a variety of hair removal methods
are available, ranging from the fairly simple procedures of shaving and tweezing to more
complex procedures that required special training. By understanding these methods
and their effects, hair-removal specialists will be able to offer sound advice to clients,
explain the problems clients may be having with their home hair-removal methods, and
steer clients toward methods better suited to the client’s need. Two major types of hair
removal techniques are in use today: permanent and temporary. Salon techniques are
generally limited to temporary methods.
Use of waxes for different parts of the body (paraffin wax, sugar wax etc)
Contraindications for Hair Removal

One of the main purposes of the client consultation is to determine the presence of any
contraindications for hair removal. Facial waxing or tweezing should not be performed
on those clients who have any of the following conditions or treatments:
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• Very sensitive skin/sunburn

• Presence of pustules or papules
• Cosmetic or reconstructive surgery
• Open cuts and wound
• Recent scar/surgeries
• Inflammation/redness
Two methods are used to remove superfluous hair
Unit - 2
Depilatory Method of Hair Removal
i) Shaving
ii) Depilatory cream
Epilatory Method Of Hair Removal

i) Threading
ii) Waxing
iii) Laser/Thermolysis/Electrolysis
Review Questions
Fill in the blanks
a. Growth of an unusual amount of hair known as ________________ .
b. Excessive growth of hair is due to imbalance of ________________ .
c. Unwanted hair can be removed by ________________ and ________________ .
Depilatory Method of Hair Removal
i) Shaving
Shaving is the most common method of removing unwanted hair by men and women.
However, more and more women are embracing the benefits of professional hair removal
and are switching from shaving to waxing, electrolysis, or laser hair removal. Shaving
is usually done with a manual or an electric razor on skin that is either wet and lathered
or covered with a special foaming product. Shaving is not only removes unwanted
hair indiscriminately removes finer vellus. Overtime, become terminal hair, thereby
aggravating an already undesirable condition. It’s a fast, inexpensive, painless and
convenient treatment but hair grows back coarsely and more stubby in 1 to 4 days.
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Scalp
Chin Face
Body Throat
90° 60° 45° 30°
Unit - 2
Types of growth of hair visible on skin surface
Shaving with razor
ii) Depilatory Cream
Depilatory cream dissolves a hair just below the skin with the chemicals calcium
thioglycolate, sodium thioglycolate, sodium hydroxide, agents that dissolve the
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hair on cattle hides. The keratin in hair is broken down, causing it to weaken and break
away, broken hairs are washed away with the depilatory product. New hair, may be
visible soon after, but if more depilatory product is applied to the area within a month.
A skin irritation can occur. It is relatively inexpensive, can be used in privacy and when
hair grows back, it is softer than that after shaving but the results are not as long lasting
as waxing, can have a nasty odor, can cause skin reactions because protective barrier
is compromised when the depilatories are washed away.
Review Questions
Unit - 2
a. What do you understand by depilatory method?
b. Explain in short the epilatory method.
c. What kinds of methods are used to remove unwanted hair?
Epilatory Method of Hair Removal
i) Threading
Threading is technique that has been used by India, Pakistan, Iran, Turkey, Egypt &
Arabia. Threading is inexpensive treatment of hair removal. The most popular areas for
threading are the eye-brows, hair line, the sideburns, the sides of face, the upper lip,
the chin and under the jaw. Threading is a good alternative for those unable to tolerate
waxing on the face due to prescription and other product. But ineffective for the large
parts of the body. If it is not be done carefully cuts or bruises may occur and give pain
and scars on the skin.
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The most popular areas for threading are the eyebrows, the area above the eyebrow
up to the hairline, the sideburns, the sides of face, the upper lip, the chin, and under the
jaw. The thread should be a strong, cotton, household thread, clean and sterilized. The
thread should range in length from 24” cut to 30” cut. The shorter threads are easier to
control when learning and developing the skill, and they are also better for practitioners
with small hands. As the practitioner becomes more skilled, a larger loop of thread is
more manageable.
Eye Brown Arching

Unit - 2
The correct shape of the eyebrows has a marked effect on the beauty and contour of
the face shaping are the important features of the face. (The entire expression can be
changed by the eyebrow line and eyebrow forms a significant point of structure in facial
composition and it is a work of beauty expert to relate the structure to help emphasise
good points and detract bad points.) The natural arch or the growth of the hair follows
the bony structure or the curved line of the orbit (eye socket). The majority of persons
have disorderly growth of hair both above and below the natural line. These hairs should
be removed to give a clean cut and attractive appearance.
Implements and Materials for Eyebrow Arching

• Emolient cream • Cotton • Cleansing tissue
• Eyebrow pencil • Eyebrow brush • Tweezer
• Thread • Powder • Scissors
• Hand Mirror • Astringent lotion
Measuring the Eyebrow to Decide Length

In order to determine the correct length of eyebrows, there are three main guidelines:
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• Place an orange stick beside the nose and the inside corner of the eye. This is
usually in line with the tear duct. Any hairs that grow between the eyes and beyond
this point should be removed. If the client has a very broad nose, however, this
guide is inappropriate : tweezing would commence near the middle of the brow. In
this instance, use the tear duct at the inside corner of the eye as a guide.
• Place an orange stick in a line from the base of the nose (to the side of the nostril)
to the outer corner of the eye. Any hairs that grow beyond this point should be
removed.
Unit - 2
• Place an orange stick in a vertical line from the centre of the eyelid. This is where
the highest point of the arc should be.
Preparing the Patron for Eyebrow Arching

Procedure
• Seat the patron on facial chair in reclining position.
• Select type of arc according to the face shape and customers liking, suitable for her
facial characteristics.
• Brush the brows and apply powder.
• Remove hair between brows and above brow line, when gradually proceed under
the line. Extra care has to be taken while working under the brows. Stretch under
and above the brows to maintain the tension.
• While working for thick growth it is advisable to use tweezer simultaneously to
avoid cuts or bruises.
• Brush the brows to remove powder and scales. Cover patron’s eyes with cotton
pads moistened with antiseptic lotion.
• Brows around the surrounding skin may be softened by rubbing emollient cream
into them
Use these guidelines when defining the eyebrow shape
1. Start
2. Point of arch
3. End point of eyebrow
Eyebrow Shaping
The entire expression can be changed by the eyebrow line.
Select shape falls into the following categories as illustrated.
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High Forehead: The eyebrow arch is slightly elevated to direct from the high forehead.
Low Forehead: A low arch gives more height to the very low forehead.
Wide Set Eyes: The eyes can be made to appear closer together by extending the
eyebrow line to the inside corner of the eyes.
Close Set Eyes: To make the appear farther apart space brows. Farther the distanceby
widening the distance between them also slightly extend the brows outward.
Round Face: Arch the brows to make the face seem narrower. Start online directly
Unit - 2
above inside cover of eye and extend to ends of been pulled out leaving little sports in
the brows darken them with the pencil. Using the eyebrow brush over is to soften the
pencil mark.
Where the Arch is too High: Remove the superfluous hairs from the top of the brow
and fill the part from the top of the brows.
Where Arch is too Low: Remove the superfluous hair from the lower part of the brow
and build up the shape of the brow by means of the brow pencil.
Precautions & Reminders

• It is inexpensive treatment and discomfort level is usually less than the waxing and
tweezing but it in effective for the large parts of the body.
• It can be uncomfortable because the hair are snagged out of the skin faster than
tweezing but more slowly than waxing.
Threading Contraindications
• Broken, irritated skin
• Active eczema and psoriasis
• Active herpes lesion
• Sunburned skin
Review Questions
a) How would you judge/measure the length of eyebrow?
b) Write the material and implements used for eyebrow shaping?
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ii) Waxing
Introduction
There are two major methods of waxing for hair removal. One is hard wax, also known
as the nonstrip method. The other major wax method is the hot wax or strip method. This
can include the honey-textured waxes and crème waxes. In addition to those waxes,
there are various varieties in between, such as cold wax and sugar wax, and many with
soothing additives.
Unit - 2
Waxing Contraindications
If the client has any of the following, wax depilation must not be carried out:
• Skin disorders, such as bruising or recent hemorrhage.
• Loss of skin sensation
• Cuts/Abrasions
• Bruises
• Warts
Types of waxes
• Warm waxes are frequently made of mixtures of sugar, syrup and zinc oxide are
also called honey wax.
• Hot wax It is relatively slow to use and used at quite a high temperature, extra care
to must be taken to avoid burns.
• Sugar wax there are two methods of sugar wax hair removal- sugar paste and strip
sugar. Sugar paste is applied to the skin, using the hands, in the direction of hair
growth. The hairs embed in the wax, which is then removed swiftly against hair growth,
removing the hairs. Strip sugar is similar in application and removal to warm wax and
requires a wax removal strip to remove the wax, against hair growth. Sugar wax has
pure sugar as the main ingredient, plus other natural ingredients such as lemon.
Equipment & Materials

• Room with privacy
• Table/Stool
• Antiseptic cleanser and towel
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• Washable drapes for the client

• Applicator/Spatula
• Pretreatment lotion/Antiseptic lotion
• Dusting powder
• Ice cubes
• Soothing lotion
Unit - 2
• Cotton
• Wax heater
• Waxing strips (disposable)
Good lighting is essential to a waxing treatment area. Fluorescent lights are the brightest
and most economical with music because music makes a treatment most pleasurable.
Wax heater are usually thermostatically controlled, but the wax should be always be tested
on the skin of the technician on the inner forearms before its application on the client.
Make sure the table is at a comfortable height for working, check the posture and make
sure you do not bend over, maintain safe distance with client.
Procedure

Types of waxes Removal of wax
• Use a towel to protect the client’s remaining clothing.

• Wipe the area to be waxed with a professional antiseptic pre-wax cleansing lotion
on cottonwool. Blot the area dry with tissues before applying the wax. While wiping
the skin, look for contra-indications.
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• If the client’s skin is very greasy (she may for example have applied oil before
coming to the clinic), cleanse it using an astringent lotion such as witchhazel. Use
dusting powder with cottonwool on the treatment area before the application of
wax.
• Apply wax on the area which is to be treated in the same direction of hair and press
the disposable strip, with stretching the skin and pull the strip with sudden tug in the
opposite direction of the hair.
• An after-wax lotion should be applied, using clean cottonwool, at the end of the
Unit - 2
treatment. This breaks down any wax residue, helps to guard against infection and
irritation, and takes away any feelings of discomfort.

1 3

2 4
Waxing
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Hygiene and Sanitation

• Use disposable equipment where possible to avoid cross-infection. Wear protective
gloves during the treatment.
• Clients should not apply perfumed products to the area that was waxed for at least
24 hours.
• A clean and sanitary environment is not only important to meeting state requirements,
it inspires client confidence. As the client leaves the room, tools should be washed
with a germicidal soap and put in the sterilization unit. Wipe down surfaces and
Unit - 2
bottles with a disinfectant cleaner.
Points to Remember
• Hot wax is always applied in the direction of hair growth and removes against hair
growth.
• It is always better to work from lesser hair growth to denser hair growth.
• The wax should not be applied to a large area.
• The strips should not end where there is still wax.
• The strip should be place over the wax, always allowing a sufficient free edge to
grasp easily.
Removal of strip in the opposite direction of hair growth
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• Once the strip is place over the wax, it is only needs to be smoothed or rubbed
once or twice to adhere to the wax and be effective.
• Do not prolong the anticipated moment of discomfort by excess rubbing.
• The pull of the strip should always be against the hair growth. It should be quick
and decisive and as close to the skin as possible for minimal discomfort.
Review Questions
Unit - 2
a. What are the various types of waxes to remove superfluous hair?
b. Write the procedure of waxing.
Excersice Question
Theory Questions
Q1. Define manicure and its benefits
Q2. What are the contra-indications of manicure?
Q3. What are the hygiene and sterilization methods to be used for manicure.
Q4. Define Reflexology and write its benefits.
Q5. Differentiate between the term epilation and depilation
Q6. Explain the judging of brow length with the help of illustration
Q7. Describe the epilatory method of hair removal
Practical Questions
Q1. Demonstrate the complete procedure of manicure
Q2 Demonstrate the various massage movement for manicure
Q3. Demonstrate eyebrow shaping using threading technique
Q4. Demonstrate the procedure of hot wax on legs
Q5. Demonstrate the trolley setting for the removal of superfluous hair
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Activity
List treatment you would suggest to the customers with following conditions.
Client’s condition What will I suggest
Dry Hands
Unit - 2
Unwanted hair on Arms
Eye brow shaping
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Unit - 3
Foot Care
Contents
• Overview
• Assessment Plan
3.1 Pedicure and its benefits
3.2 Types of Pedicure
Unit - 3
3.3 Hygiene and Sterilization

3.4 Foot Reflexology (only brief)

and Wellness.

• Pedicure and its benefits
• Types of Pedicure
• Reflexology (only brief)
• Removal of superfluous hair
Resource Material
1. Beauty Therapy the Foundation Level II, Lorraine Nordmann
3. Manicure, Pedicure and Advanced Nail Techniques by Elaine Almond
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Learning Outcomes
UNIT Pedicure Outcomes
3.1 Pedicure • Identify various tips of nail care and toe nail care
• Identify the Pedicure & its benefits
3.2 Types of Pedicure • Differentiate between the types of Pedicure
3.3 Hygiene and Sterilization • Identify various methods of Sterilization and
Sanitation
3.4 Foot Reflexology (only • Understand Definition of Reflexology
brief) • Identify Benefits
Unit - 3
Unit Topic Assessment Method Remarks
3.1 Pedicure Exercise: Question & Answer
Audio Visual Aids
Practical demonstration by the learner
3.2 Types of Exercise: Question & Answer
Pedicure Audio Visual Aids
3.3 Hygiene and Exercise: Question & Answer
Sterilization Audio Visual Aids
3.4 Reflexology Exercise: Question & Answer
(only brief) Audio Visual Aids
3.1 Pedicure
The word Pedicure is derived from the Latin word pedis meaning foot and cura meaning
care. It is a way to improve the appearance of the feet and the nails. It provides a similar
service to a manicure. The word pedicure refers to superficial cosmetic treatment of
the feet and toenails. A pedicure can help prevent nail diseases and nail disorders.
Pedicures are done for cosmetic, therapeutic and medical purposes. They’re extremely
popular throughout the world, primarily among women. Pedicures are not just limited to
nails; usually dead skin cells on the bottom of feet are rubbed off using a rough stone
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called a pumice stone. Additionally, leg care below the knee became a common and
now expected service included in pedicures. Leg care includes depilation via either
shaving or waxing followed by granular exfoliation, application of moisturizing creams,
and a brief leg massage.
Unit - 3
Benefits of Pedicure
• The health benefits are simply much more than what appears as a mere beauty
treatment.
• The procedure is a potent means of exfoliation which essentially helps getting rid
of the dead skin cells without causing any harm to the skin.
• The gentle massage with stones, especially the pumice stone, relieves tension in
the muscles and reduces adamant muscle pain around the calves and ankles.
• The procedure further improves blood circulation which essentially keeps away
most of damages and medical conditions away.
• Foot massaging certain areas may send the signals to the rest of the body and may
consequently relieve the subsequent muscle tensions. This action further helps in
bettering the health of the overall body.
• In many pedicures, the relieving effect may be simply more than just physical. As
per experts, many scents and perfumes used in the process proves beneficial for
rectifying circulation problems, improves the mood and enhances memory. For
example, the scent of vanilla relaxes the nerves, the smell of sugar literally excites
the body and the scent of lime when sniffed invigorates the brain.
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Toe Nail Care

• Scrub your heels once a week using a body scrub to prevent hard skin building up.
If the skin gets too hard and dry and has a white color, you can use a Pedi Rasp in
the shower
• It is very important to keep your toe nails clean by washing them well when
showering.
• Apply foot cream or rich body cream after showering, especially on the heels.
• Avoid walking on your bare feet as this can encourage bacteria growth as well as
causing your heels to become hard and start cracking.
• By regularly pushing up the cuticles with an orange stick, more of the nail plate will
be visible, which will ultimately make your toe nails look longer.
• By filing your nails correctly, your nails will strengthen and can be formed into an
even square shape.
Unit - 3
• When removing nail polish with cotton wool, try to avoid rubbing too hard, as this
will put too much pressure on the toe nails and may effect nail growth.
Contraindications
Pedicure should be cautiously performed if a client has one of the following conditions
• Fever
• Inflamed areas
• Skin problems – rash. Inflammation, lesions, frail skinand extreme discolorations
• High Blood Pressure
• Uncontrolled diabetes
• Infectious diseases
• Varicose veins
• Unstable hypertension
• Warts
• Ingrown nails
• Ring worm
• Nail fungus
• Recent scar tissue
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• Severe eczema
• Severe bruising
• Undiagnosed lumps and swellings
• Athletes foot
• Diabetes-Permission from GP required
Review Questions
(i) List the benefits of Pedicure.
(ii) Name few contra-indications of Pedicure.
3.1.1 Materials & Supplies
Tools Required
Unit - 3
• Emery board (nail file): To smooth off the free edges and shape the nail. When
using an emery board remember that the darker side (Course side) is used to file
your toenails and the paler side (finer side) is used for your fingernails. Always
file at a 45-degree angle from the outside in on both sides. Never use the seesaw
movement as this could damage your matrix causing deformed nails to grow. For
a pedicure always file the nail straight across to prevent ingrowing nails. Don’t use
metal files, as these will cause your nails to flake.
• Nail cutter
• Cuticle cutter: These look very much like the cuticle nippers only larger, they
are designed to cut the toenails straight and not at an angle. They are very sharp
and should always be kept clean like your other implements used. Cut straight
across the nail, not too short always leave a small free edge. Never cut them
short, as this will cause ingrowing nails, which are very painful and can become
infected.
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• Cuticle pusher
• Nail brush
• Orange stick: Orange stick is used at the end of your manicure/pedicure to clean
around the nails by dipping it in your enamel remover and rubbing carefully over
the enamel to be removed. You can also use it to clean under your nails if you are
Unit - 3
using a clear enamel.
• Pumice stone
• Foot scrapper
• Two basins large enough for foot bath/foot spa
• RASP: Is used to remove hard skin from the feet. Also used is an exfoliant or
a callus file, even a pumice stone. Only ever file the hard skin in one direction
carefully 7 – 8 strokes, if you remove too much hard skin at once this will make the
foot sore.
• Toe separator: You can use toe dividers, which are placed between the toes,
or you can use cotton wool this is used to separate the toes making sure that
each toe doesn’t knock the other when drying, it also makes it easier to apply the
enamel.
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Materials and supplies required

• Cotton
• Towel
• Plastic sheet
• Exfoliater
Unit - 3
• Nail enamel remover

• Liquid soap or shampoo
• Luke warm water
• Antiseptic lotion
• Cuticle cream
• Massage cream
• Nail polish
• Foot powder
• Hydrogen peroxide
3.1.2 Prepration of Client & Procedure
Following are the key steps in client preparation for the procedure
• Advice the client to remove footwear for consultation
• Discuss and agree on the services that are acceptable to meet the client’s needs
• Remove any existing nail polish, restoring nails to natural condition
• Clean the treatment area to identify the condition of nails and skin
• Establish and record the condition of clients’ nail and skin
• Recognize contra indications and take necessary actions
• Prepare the work area for client to meet legal, hygiene and treatment requirements.
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Pedicure Procedure
Always remember to keep your implements clean: if they are left dirty they may harbor
germs and cause infections.
Preparation
• Before we begin, make sure you are properly prepared. Disinfect all hard surfaces,
then wash your hands with soap and water and sanitize them with an instant hand
sanitizer
• Make certain your rolling cart is fully stocked with a disinfection tray, Spa Pedicure
products, other pedicuring products, implements, tools, towels and polishing
products.
Unit - 3
Trim the nails
• All pedicure clients should have filled out the consultation form (client profile)
covering medical history and other important information. Remember, you must
proceed with caution if a client is diabetic, calling the client’s physician for clearance
if you have any doubts, and never perform a pedicure in an extreme situation, such
as open sores or infections of the foot or leg.
Filing of Nails
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• Plan on the service taking around an hour to complete. This includes a six to seven
minute massage per leg. When you do the service in the salon, complete each step
on all five toes before going on to the next step.
Preparing the Bath

• Fill the foot bath with warm water—this means under 37°C, or a comfortable
temperature. Add the water to agitate as it fills to create light foam in the bath.
• Let your client get settled in the chair with shoes, socks or nylons removed. You
may provide a robe if the client so desires.
• Submerge both the client’s feet in the warm water, adding more water if necessary
to adjust the temperature to the client’s comfort.
• Soak the clients feet for 5 minutes in the bath to take full advantage of the softening
effects of Rice Bran and Vitamin E Oils. As they soak, remove your instruments
from the disinfection unit and lay them on a clean, sanitized towel.
Unit - 3
Disinfect the foot

Procedure
• Begin by placing a clean, sanitized terry towel in your lap, and remove one foot
from the water. Pat the foot dry and remove the enamel from the toenails.
• Gently massage for 2 to 3 minutes, concentrating on areas of extreme dryness,
then rinse and pat dry.
• Wrap the foot in a clean towel.
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• Unwrap the first foot and run the Callus Smoother over all calluses to reduce and
smooth. Use a circular motion to reduce calluses inlayers until the skin is pink and
pliable. Rinse the foot and towel dry.
Unit - 3
Exfoliate the feet
• Do not return the foot to the bath as you use the Callus Smoother on the other foot.
when both feet are clean, exfoliated, and dry, you are ready to proceed to the next
portion of the service.
• Gently push back and remove non-living (true) cuticle from around the proximal
and lateral nail folds, staying away from the eponychium.
• Trim the corner of the big toenail at a 45° angle. Using firm ‘balance-point’ positioning
and holding the toenail trimmer like scissors- between thumb and middle finger,
leaving the index finger free for balance- slide the tip of the trimmer under the
corner at a 45° angle, so you can see the trimmer on the other side of the nail.
Make sure you don’t leave a hook or spike behind on the lateral nail edge.
• Guide a curette, small spoon tool or orangewood stick along the lateral nail edge
in the direction of nail growth. Do this on both sides of the nail to remove non-living
tissue and debris.
• After all five toenails have been pedicured, rinse the foot in the bath and pat dry.
Moisturize
• Cover the entire foot up to the top of the ankle, leaving no bare spots. Then wrap it
in a clean, dry terry towel and let this foot rest while you work on the other foot.
109
• Pedicure the second foot in the same manner as the first.

• Cover the second foot with moisturizer, wrap it in a clean, dry terry towel and let this
foot rest while you return to the first foot.
Unit - 3
• Place the pedicure tools back into the disinfection unit.

• Unwrap the first foot and completely rinse the entire masque from the foot, using a
soft brush or cloth if needed. Pat dry.
• Apply Nail Enamel – begin by placing toe Separators between the toes, apply one
thin coat of base coat and allow it to dry, apply a thin coat of nail enamel and after
it dries completely apply a one coat of top coat.
• Allow enough time for enamel completely cure and then apply foot powder on the
soles.
Review Questions
(i) List the tools and supplies used in pedicure.
(ii) List any 05 points of toe nail care.
Massage
Foot massage during a pedicure stimulates blood flow and is relaxing to the client. The
below techniques provide directions for massage of the left foot.
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Unit - 3
Give Massage manipulation
• Relaxer Movement to the Joints of the Foot: Rest client’s foot on footrest
or stool. Grip the leg above the ankle with your left hand. This will support the
client’s leg and foot. Use your right hand to hold left foot just beneath toes and
rotate foot in circular motion.
• Thumb Compression- friction movement: Make a fist with your fingers, keeping
your thumb out. Apply firm pressure with your thumb and move your fist up the
heel towards the ball of the foot. Work from the left side of foot and back down the
right side towards the heel. As you massage over the bottom of the foot, check
for any nodules or bumps. If you find one, be very gentle because area may be
tender.
• Metatarsal Scissors (a petrissage massage movement, kneading): Place
your fingers on top of foot along the metatarsal bones with your thumb underneath
the foot. Knead up and down along each bone by raising your thumb and lower
fingers to apply pressure.
• Effleurage on Top of Foot: Place both thumbs on top of foot at instep. Move
your thumbs in circular movements in opposite directions down the center of the
top of the foot. Continue this movement to the toes. Keep one hand in contact
111
with foot or leg, slide one hand at a time back firmly to instep and rotate back
down to toes.
• Effleurage on Heel (bottom of foot): Use the same thumb movement that you did
in the massage technique above. Start at the base of the toes and move from the
ball of the foot to the heel, rotating your thumbs in opposite directions. Slide hands
back to the top of the foot.
• Effleurage Movement on Toes: Start with the little toe, using thumb on top and
index finger on bottom of foot. Hold each toe and rotate with the thumb. Start at
base of toe and work towards the end of the toes.
• Twist Compression (a friction movement, deep rubbing): Place left hand on

top of foot and make a fist with your right hand. Your left hand will apply pressure
while your right hand twists around the bottom of the foot.
• Effleurage on Instep: Place fingers at ball of foot. Move fingers in circular

Unit - 3
movements in opposite directions. Massage to end of each toe, gently squeezing

the tip of each toe.
• Percussion or Tapotement Movement: Use fingertips to perform percussion or

tapotement movements to lightly tap over the entire foot to reduce blood circulation
and complete massage.
• Effleurage a French word meaning “to skim” or “to touch lightly on”, is a series of
massage strokes used in Swedish massage to warm up the muscle before deep
tissue work using petrissage.
• Petrissage from French pétrir, “to knead” are massage movements with applied
pressure which are deep and compress the underlying muscles. Kneading, wringing,
skin rolling and pick-up-and-squeeze are the petrissage movements. They are all
performed with the padded palmar surface of the hand, the surface of the finger
and also the thumbs.
3.2 Types of Pedicure
Regular pedicure: A simple foot treatment which involves foot soaking, scrubbing,
clipping of nails along with shaping them, massaging foot and calf muscles, moisturizing
followed with nail paint. The regular pedicure consists of soaking feet in a warm tub of
smelly salts and scrubbing with a pumice stone or foot file. This removes the dead skin
around the front and back of the foot. The toe nails are clipped, filed and cleaned, then
112
set out to dry so polish adheres to the nail. While toes nails dry, apply a moisturizer to
the foot and calf and massage the leg. Lastly, the nails are painted.
Spa pedicure: The spa pedicure is an upgrade to the regular pedicure because of a
few extra steps during the process. Spa pedicures receive all the basics of the regular
pedicure. In addition to a few extra minutes and a slightly higher price, the spa pedicure
typically involves a paraffin wax, mud mask or salt scrub. Dip feet into a paraffin wax
and allow the wax to cool completely before simply peeling it off and revealing smooth
skin. A mud mask is similar to a face mask, but for the feet; it helps to remove dead skin
and relax sore feet. Salt or sugar scrubs are another exfoliation and moisture-enhancing
technique.
Paraffin pedicure: Paraffin that is used for salon treatments is actually an alkaline
(opposite of acidic) substance that contains hydrating factors for the skin. It comes in a
very viscous and waxy form which is applied all over the skin on the feet and the hands
(palm and back of hands). One’s hands and feet are then wrapped with for the moisture
Unit - 3
to seep through the skin. Paraffin manicure and pedicures also include regular nail
cleaning and shaping.
Stone pedicure: Stone pedicures help relax and work out sore muscles, aches and
pains in the feet and calves. The pedicure includes the amenities from the regular
pedicure. In addition; warm to hot stones are used to rub down the foot to help loosen
tight muscles. Depending on the salon, patrons may receive a foot rub with essential oil,
then place their feet onto a smooth stone, or the professional may rub down the foot and
calves with the stones and essential oil.
French pedicure: A regular pedicure which ends with the “French” style of nail paint
characterized by white nail polish at the nail tips with a sheer pink colour on the nail
base.
Mini pedicure: The mini pedicure is fast, quick and inexpensive. Because of the term
“mini”, the pedicure does not contain the massage or exfoliation to the feet. Unknowingly,
women usually give themselves mini pedicures at home because the mini pedicure is
simply removing the polish, filing the nails and re-polishing the toes.
Review Questions
(i) Paraffin wax pedicure is recommended for which type of skin condition?
(ii) Write down five massage manipulation for pedicure.
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3.3 Hygiene and Sterilization (Same for Manicure also)

Sterilization is a term referring to any process that eliminates (removes) or kills all
forms of microbial life, including transmissible agents (such as fungi, bacteria,
viruses, spore forms, etc.) present on a surface, contained in a fluid, in medication,
or in a compound such as biological culture media. Sterilization can be achieved by
applying the proper combinations of heat, chemicals, irradiation, high pressure, and
filtration.
All your tools must be washed in warm soapy water, then rinsed and then dried thoroughly
before sterilizing them. This removes any debris and prevents contamination of the
sterilizing method.
Few techniques for sterilizing of tools are

• Autoclave: High pressure steaming at a minimum of 121 degrees celsius for 15
minutes. The autoclave method is suitable for stainless steel and glass tools
Unit - 3
• Ultraviolet: Used mainly to store already sterilized equipment. The UV method is

only effective on the surfaces it touches, so the tools will need to be turned over
• Glass Bead: Glass beads are heated to 190 degrees celsius to 300 degrees
celsius. They are kept at this temperature for 30- 60 minutes before use. Suitable
only for very small items such as tweezers and cuticle pushers.
• Chemical Sterilizers: The most common chemical sterilizer is Barbicide. The
tools are totally immersed in a solution of Barbicide or another chemical and water.
Always follow the instructions to the letter. The chemicals are extremely strong and
can cause harm to the skin, so be careful when handling them. Also always dry the
tools well when removed from the solution.
Disinfectant
Disinfectants are substances that are applied to non-living objects to destroy
microorganisms that are living on the objects. Disinfection does not necessarily
kill all microorganisms, especially resistant bacteria spores; it is less effective than
sterilization, which is an extreme physical and/or chemical process that kills all types of
life. Disinfectants are different from other antimicrobial agents such as antibiotics, which
destroy microorganisms within the body, and antiseptics, which destroy microorganisms
on living tissue. Disinfectants are also different from biocides — the latter are intended
to destroy all forms of life, not just microorganisms. Disinfectants work by destroying the
cell wall of microbes or interfering with the metabolism.
114
Suggested methods of hygiene and sterilization for specific tools for Manicure
& Pedicure
• Beautician
♦ Hand wash with soap
♦ Wear gloves for manicure and pedicure
♦ Clean uniform
♦ Keep nails short and filed
♦ Hand sanitizer at the start of every treatment
♦ Hair tied back
♦ No jewellery
• Client
♦ Jewellery to be removed for area being treated, hands or feet as the case may
Unit - 3
be
♦ Hand sanitizing
♦ Foot soaking
♦ Hands and feet to be checked for contra-indications
• Trolley
♦ Always disinfect with surgical spirit at the end of the working day.
♦ Always cover with couch roll.
• Nail File
♦ Re-usable on clean hands but not indefinitely
♦ Disposable when finished with
• Orange Stick
♦ Disposable or re-usable when covered with cotton wool, but not indefinitely
• Hoof Stick
♦ If plastic, chemical sterilization
♦ If wooden, same as Orange stick
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Any sterilization method is fine for the following

• Cuticle Nipper
• Nail Brush
• Cuticle Knife
Chemical sterilizing, e.g. Barbicide for the following

• Pedicure Callous File
• Manicure Bowl
Chemical and Ultraviolet methods (to be disinfected between clients with surgical
spirit)
• Foot Bath
• Scissors
Unit - 3
Autoclave, Ultraviolet, chemical and glass bead methods

• Toe Separators
Disposable, or wipe with surgical spirit between clients
• Nail Clippers
3.4 Foot Reflexology (only brief)

Use thumb pressure on reflex points as shown in the picture to gain the benefits.
116
Unit - 3
117
Excersice Question
Theory Questions
Q1. Define pedicure and its benefits
Q2. What are the contra-indications of pedicure?
Q3. What are the hygiene and sterilization methods to be used for pedicure.
Q4. Write down the benefits of reflexology
Practical Questions
Q1. Demonstrate the complete procedure of pedicure
Q2. Demonstrate the variousmassage movement for pedicure
Activity
Unit - 3
Suggest treatment you would suggest to the customers.
Client’s condition What will I suggest
Dry and cracked heels
Chapped Nail Paint
Foot Muscular pain
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Unit - 4
Face and Beauty

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Contents
• Overview
• Assessment Plan
4.1 Skin
4.2 Trolley Setting
4.3 Facial Massage Manipulations
4.4 Basic Facial
4.5 Bleaching
4.6 Light Make up Application

Unit - 4
and Wellness.

• Types of skin
• Trolley setting
• Massage manipulations
• Basic Facial
• Bleaching
• Light Make up
Resource Material
1. Beauty Therapy the foundation Level II, Lorraine Nordmann
4. Art and Science of Make up and Retailing I – CBSE publication
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Learning Outcomes
UNIT Topic Learning outcomes
4.1 Skin • Identify the types of skin like normal, dry, oily combination
• Identify the pH of skin
4.2 Trolley setting • Identify the raw material used for skin treatments
• Implements and equipment used for skin treatments.
4.3 Facial massage • Identify scientific massage manipulations
manipulations
4.4 Basic facial • Procedure and precaution of Basic facial
4.5 Bleaching • Identify the techniques used for disguise the facial hair
4.6 Light make up • Contra-indications for make up
application
• Identify various products used for make up
• Cleansing procedure to be followed for make up
• Analysis of facial shapes
• Procedure for applying light makeup
Unit - 4
Unit 4 Topic Assessment Method Remarks
4.1 Skin Exercise: Question & Answer
4.2 Trolley settings Setting of the trolley for different types of facial
treatments
4.3 Facial massage Practical demonstration by the learner of various
manipulations massage movements.
4.4 Basic facial Practical demonstration by the learner of basic facial
4.5 Bleaching Practical demonstration by the learner
4.6 Light make up Practical demonstration by the learner
application Exercise: Question & Answer
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4.1 Skin
Skin is one of the largest organs in our body in surface area and weight. one of the main
functions of a skin is to provide a barrier between inside body and exterior environment.
Skin type changes from person to person. Determining you skin type is an important
step in knowing how to treat skin, what products to use and how to have a perfect skin.
Skin pH
One of the most important roles of our skin is to protect our insides from the external
environment, acting both as a barrier and a filter between outside and inside. In addition
skin is involved in regulation our body’s temperature. The pores of our skin are made up
of a combination of oil and sweat glands helping to keep our skin healthy and elastic.
When in balance, the combined excretion of oil and sweat from the skin’s pores has a
ph of about 5.5.
Importance of the skin’s pH

One of the major reasons that radically alter the pH of the skin is soap. Soaps available
are highly alkaline (pH range 9-11) and raise the skin’s pH to be much more alkaline. This
can be adjusted by using products such as herbal toner or rose water, depending on the
skin type. These toners restore normal pH of the skin and thus provide an environment
not conducive to the growth of bacteria.
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Types of Skin
• Normal
• Dry
• Oily
• Combination
• Sensitive
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Normal Skin
Few clients will have normal skin, as this skin type is very rare indeed. Normal skin has
a good oil and water balance. The best example of normal skin is in children from birth
up until puberty. When questioned, the client will usually report that they have very few
Unit - 4
problems with their skin.
Dry Skin
A dry skin is so called because it is either lacking in sebum or moisture, or both. It
develops as a result of under activity of the sebaceous glands. The skin’s natural oil,
sebum, lubricates the corneum layer and in the absence of this oily coating the dead
cells start to curl up and flake. The sebum coating also helps to prevent moisture loss
through evaporation, and for this reason dry skin has difficulty retaining inner moisture.
Although dry skin is hereditary, it can also develop as a result of the ageing process.
The client will usually report that their skin feels tight and dry. They many also complain
of sensitivity and premature ageing.
Oily Skin
Oily skin is hereditary, and develops due to an overproduction of sebum from the
sebaceous glands. There is always a tendency for clients to overtreat their skin if it
is oily; however, this can compound the problem as excessive stimulation results in
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stripping and irritating the skin, making it become dry and unbalanced. The skin’s natural
protection mechanism will then respond by producing more oil. The client will usually
report that their skin develops a ‘shine’ during the course of a day, their skin often feels
thick and dirty, due to the accumulation of the sebum and dead cells clogging the surface
and suffer with blemishes.
Combination Skin
This is actually the most common skin type. As its name suggest, this skin is a bit of a
mixture; typically the T-zone (central area of the face corresponding to the forehead,
nose and chin) is oily and the cheeks and neck are dry/normal. Combination skin can
therefore be both dry and oily at the same time.
Review Questions
a. Write different types of Skin
b. How would you analyze the skin for facial treatment
c. What causes the dryness of the facial skin
4.2 Trolley Setting
Materials
Unit - 4
• Massage Creams (Contain emollient

and active ingredients according to the
types of skin).
• Eye creams/Eye Gels (To prevent
formation of lines and wrinkles around
the eyes).
• Antiseptic lotion
• Astringent
• Cleansers
• Oils
• Moisturizers
• Hand sanitizer
• Massage Gel
• Face Pack/Mask
Vapozone
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Equipment Implements
Facial bed or chair Sponge
Magnifying glass Clean sheet
Vapozone Cotton roll/Swabs
Gauze
Head band
Towels
Tissues
Plastic Bowl
Spatulas Comedone Extractor
Review Questions
a. What is the role of magnifying glass in facial?
b. Why facial bed is important for facial treatment?
4.3 Facial Massage Manipulations
Unit - 4
Massage involves the application of external manipulations to the face or any other part
of the body. This is accomplished by means of the hands or with the aid of electrical
appliances, such as vibrator. The beneficial effects produced by massage depend upon the
type, intensity and extent of the manipulations employed. Massaging must be performed
systematically. It should never be a casual or irregular process. Consideration must be
given to the condition of the skin and the general physical condition of the parton.

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Unit - 4
Massage manipulation
Basic Massage Manipulations

The primary rule in the application of massage manipulations is: “When massaging any
part of the head, face or neck, all pressure should be applied in an upward direction.” This
rule should be followed in all massaging services, whether they are intended to stimulate,
relax or soothe the skin. When applying rotary manipulations, the same rule applies
because the pressure should be applied on the upward swing of the movement.
The basic manipulations used in massage are as follows:
1. Effleurage: This is a light, continuous movement applied in a slow and rhythmic
manner over the skin. No pressure is employed. Over large surfaces, the palm is
used; while over small surfaces, the fingertips are employed. Effleurage is frequently
applied to the forehead, face and scalp for its soothing and relaxing effects.
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2. Petrissage: In this movement, the skin and flesh are grasped between the thumb
and fingers. As the tissues are lifted from their underlying structures, they are
squeezed. Rolled or pinched with a light, firm pressure. This movement exerts an
invigorating effect on the part being treated.
3. Friction: This movement requires pressure on the skin while it is being moved over
the underlying structures. The fingers or palms are employed in this movement.
Friction has a marked influence on the circulation and glandular activity of the
skin.
4. Percussion or tapotement: This form of massage is the most stimulating. It should
be applied with care and discretion. Tapping movements are gentler than slapping
movements. Percussion movements tone the muscles and impart a healthy glow
to the part being massaged. In tapping, the fingertips are brought down against the
skin in rapid succession, whereas in slapping, the whole palm is used to strike the
skin. Hacking movement employs the outer ulnar borders of the hands which are
struck against the skin in alternate succession. In facial massage, only light digital
tapping is used.
5. Vibrations: The fingertips or vibrator are used to transmit a trembling movement to
the skin and its underlying structures. To prevent over-stimulation, this movement
should be used sparingly and should never exceed a few seconds duration on any
one spot.
Unit - 4
There are many different massage sequences which are to be followed for facial
massage.
1. Spreading the cream on the shoulders.
2. Thumb kneading to the shoulders.
3. Finger kneading to the shoulders.
4. Vibration to the shoulders.
5. Circular massage on the neck.
6. Hand cupped on the neck.
7. Knuckling on the neck.
8. Circular on the mandible.
9. Flick-ups
10. Lifting the eyebrows.
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11. Inner and outer eye circles.

12. Circling on the chin, nose and temple.
13. Lifting the mandible.
14. Knuckling along the jawline
15. Upward tapping.
16. The scissor movement.
Benefits of Massage
• Dead cells are loosened and shed, improves the appearance of the skin.
• The muscles receive an improved supply of oxygenated blood, essential for cell
growth. Muscle are toned up and improved.
• The increased blood circulation in the area warms the tissues.
• Blood capillaries are dilated and bring blood to the skin surface, this improves skin
color.
• The increased temperature of the skin relaxes the pores and follicles; this helps
absorption of the massage cream.
• Sensory nerves can be soothed or stimulated, this helps to maintain the skin natural
Unit - 4
oil and moisture balance (sebaceous glands increase the production of sebum and
sweat).
• The skin and all its structures are nourished and soften lines and wrinkles.
• The skin is rendered soft and pliable.
• The lymphatic circulation and the venous blood circulation increases, helps to
remove waste products and toxins.
Review Questions
Fill in the blanks.
a. All Pressure should be applied in a __________________ .
b. __________________ is light continuous rhythmic movement.
c. The skin flesh grasped between the thumb and fingers is __________________ .
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4.4 Basic Facial

Preparation of Client
Before the preparation of the client the preparation of treatment area is integral part of
the facial services to provide a professional image and service, the environment should
be clean, comfortable, well equipped and relaxing.
Unit - 4
Facial room
Following factors are important:

• The room should be warm and comfortable, with blankets provided for additional
warmth and comfort.
• Lighting should ideally be subdued to create a feeling of relaxation.
• The room should be free of noise with peaceful atmosphere may be added by
relaxing music.
After greeting a client warmly make her comfortable when lying on the facial bed or
chair, jewellery should be removed and placed safely with the client’s belongings. If the
client is wearing contact lenses should be advised to remove them prior to treatment to
avoid any discomfort. Clothing of the upper body should be removed and large towel or
toweling wrap, secured under the arms and around the front of the chest. After theses
preparations, settle the client on the bed wrapping her in a blanket, secure client’s here
away from the face with the help of head band or wrap.
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Procedure of Basic Facial

• Facial cleansing procedure:-Cleansing is designed to remove all traces of make-
up, surface secretions, dirt and other pollutants, and dead skin cells from the
surface of the skin so the therapist can accurately assess the client’s skin prior to
devising the treatment plan. If permitted to build up, these materials could lead to
the formation of comedones, pustules and other skin blemishes.
• Apply a cleansing product to your hand and warm before applying to the skin.
Unit - 4
Starting at the neck with a sweeping movement, use both hands to spread the cleanser
upward on the chin, jaws, cheeks, and the base of the nose to the temples and along
the sides and the bridge of the nose. Make small circular movements with your fingertips
around the nostrils and sides of the nose. Continue the upward sweeping movements
between the brow and across the forehead to the temples.
• Remove the cleanser with facial
sponges, tissues, moist cotton pads,
or warm, moist towels. Start at the
forehead and follow the contours of
the face. Remove all the cleanser
from one area of the face before
proceeding to the next. Finish with
the neck, chest, and back.
• Steam the face mildly with warm,
moist towels or with a facial steamer
to open the pores so they can
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be cleansed of oil and comedones.

Cover the client’s eyes with cotton
pads moistened with distilled water.
Steam helps to soften superficial lines
and increases blood circulation to the
surface of the skin. Use comedone
extractor, if required.
• Massage with cream/gel using the
same procedure as for the cleanser.
Massage the face, using the facial
manipulations.
• Remove massage cream with tissues,
warm, moist towels, moist cleansing
pads, or sponges. Follow the same
procedure as for removing cleanser.
• Apply a mask/pack formulated for the
client’s skin condition with the help of
natural bristle brush, starting at the
neck. Use long slow strokes from the
center outward and proceed to the jawline and apply the mask on a face from the
Unit - 4
center outward on one-half of the face, then the other.
• Allow it to remain on the face for five to ten minutes. Remove the mask with a wet
cotton pledgets or sponges.
• Apply toner/astringent and finally moisturizer or sunscreen.
Cleanup and Sanitation

• Remove the head covering and show the client to the dressing room, offering
assistance if needed.
• Discard all disposable supplies and materials.
• Close product containers tightly, clean them, and put them away in their proper
places. Return unused cosmetics and other items to the dispensary.
• Place used towels, coverlets, head covers, and other linens in hamper.
• Sanitize your workstation, including the facial bed.
• Wash your hands with soap and warm water.
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Precautions & Reminders

• There are numbers of special problems that must be considered when you are
performing a facial. These include dry skin, oily skin, and blackheads, and acne.
• Wash hand before and after treatment.
• Using clean towels and linen for each client.
• Checking that the client has no infectious conditions.
• Using a spatula to remove products from jars.
• Replacing tops on bottles and jars immediately after use to avoid contamination.
• Sterilizing all implements before use.
• Keep checking the client’s skin reaction during treatment.
• While using vapor zone use distilled water to prevent calcium and mineral deposits
building up in the machine.
• Keep the steam outlet directed away from the client and any other equipment/
materials while the water is heating.
• Turn the steam outlet away from the client before turning the machine off and move
it to a safe place immediately after treatment.
• Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding preparation, application
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and removal.
• It is important to ensure that the mask is set before removal.
• Apply soothing eye pads once the mask application is complete.
• Remove masks with damp warm sponges or cotton pads using an upward motion.
Repeat until all traces of the mask have been removed and finally apply a light
application of toner before proceeding to the last stages of the facial.
• Review with the client any concerns they had at the initial consultation stage; this
will provide a basis for discussing your own findings.
• Make suggestions about future courses of treatment and the results that can be
expected.
Masks & Packs

Face masks contain a variety of different ingredients to have a deep cleansing, toning or
nourishing effect on the skin.
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Masks & Packs are special cosmetic preparations applied to the face to benefit and
beautify the skin.
Clay mask
A mask is usually a setting product, which means that it dries after application and
provides a complete closure to the environment on top of the skin.
• Clay masks are clay preparations used to stimulate circulation and temporarily
contract the pores of the skin. They contain clay, kaolin, or silica and absorb sebum
good for oily skin and combination skin. Clay masks are applied with a mask brush
and are allowed to set for about 10 minutes.
Unit - 4
Rose water and orange-flower water for mixing the pack and/masks are very popular
have stimulating and toning effect. Witchhazelhas a soothing effect on blemishes and
suitable for greasy skin.Masks should be kept on the skin for 10 to 15 minutes.
Applying The Masks

The mask is usually applied as the final facial treatment, because of its cleansing,
refining and soothing effects upon the skin. The methods of preparation, application and
removal are different for the various face-mask types.
• Prepare the mask for application.
• Using the sterilized mask brush or spatula, begin to apply the mask. The usual
sequence of mask application is neck, chin, cheeks, nose, and forehead.
• Apply the mask quickly and evenly so that it has maximum effect on the whole face.
Don’t apply it too thickly; as well as making mask removal difficult, this is wasteful
as only the part that is in contact with the skin has any effect. Keep the mask clear
of the nostrils, the lips, the eyebrows and the hairline.
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• To relax the client, apply cottonwool eye pads dampened with rose water.
• Leave the mask for the recommended time or according to the effect required.
Take account also of the sensitivity of the skin and your client’s comfort.
• Remove the mask and eye pads, apply the appropriate toning lotion using dampened
cottonwool. Blot the skin dry with a facial tissue.
• Remove the handband, and tidy the client’s hair.
• Record the results on her record card.
Review Questions
a. What kind of preparation should be made before giving a basic facial?
b. Briefly outline the procedure of basic facial.
c. Sterilization is important before starting a basic facial. Justify.
d. What are the benefits of baisc facial?
4.5 Bleaching
Bleaching is a temporary solution to facial hair which will disguise rather than remove
hair. Facial hair bleach usually comes as a powder and cream, which should be mixed
Unit - 4
together before applying. Skin Whitening, skin lightening and skin bleaching refers to
the practice of using chemical substances in an attempt to lighten skin tone or provide
an even skin complexion by lessening the concentration of melanin. Bleach refers to a
number of chemicals that remove color, lighten via oxidation.
Types of Bleaches
Powdered bleach: This is done by adding
bleaching powder with liquid hydrogen
peroxide and ammonia. If powder bleach is
used for eliminating dark spot and freckles
then bleaches should be applied only to that
area of dark spots and freckles.
Cream bleach: This is available at any
drugstore or at chemist shops and used in
most of the beauty parlors. It is used for Skin
brightening.
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Protein Bleach: It is mild bleach, in which

butter pack is used to ensure a soft supple
skin. Ammonia is used to lighten the hair
and remove tanning. Protein Bleach is a
blessing for those who have a sensitive/
oily skin.
Gold Bleach: In gold beach Aqua activator
is used along with the Gold cream bleach,
which helps in activating the bleaching
action to give you a fairer and glowing
skin.
Oxy bleach: It’s a special type of bleach which is especially good for the tanned and
sensitive skin. It helps oxygen to penetrate the skin. It is a healthy way to bleach.
Benefits of bleaching
It’s fast and easy method. Bleaching cream can be found at any drug store fairly cheap,
and you can bleach right in your own home. Large areas of hair can be bleached at the
same time, with the entire process only taking minutes from start to finish.
The Cons of bleaching

• Bleaching facial and body hair doesn’t give you a smooth and hairless surface.
Unit - 4
• Not all hair or skin types can benefit. Don’t count on bleaching disguising long or
thick hair-only finer ones, like on the face or arms. Bleached hair on dark or tan
skin, can still stand out because of the color contrast (light hair against dark skin).
• It can temporarily lighten dark skin tones. The lighter skin tone can last for up to
3 days.
Trolley Setting
Materials Required:
Bowl (Glass or Plastic) Neck cape Applicator Brush
Cotton wool Head Band Hydrogen Peroxide (20 Volumes)
Sponge Gloves (Rubber) Liquid Ammonia
Towels Bleaching Powder Dropper and Rose Water
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Patch Test: A Patch Test is necessary before proceeding with the bleach. This should
be performed at least 24 hours prior to bleaching process. If reaction occurs, do not
bleach.
Procedure for Powder Bleach

1. Remove the jewellery and make up
2. Cleanse the face and neck thoroughly
3. Prepare the client using head band and wrap the towel or neck cape
4. Prepare the bleach pack by mixing two tea spoons of bleaching powder, 5-6 drops
of liquid ammonia and hydrogen peroxide (20 volumes) as per requirement to make
a smooth paste
5. Cover the client’s eyes with cotton dipped in Rose water
6. Apply bleach pack in upward and outward movements. Leave for 10- 15 minutes
and clean the face with tap water.
7. Apply moisturizer
Note: Use oil bleach/cream bleach as per manufacturer’s direction
Precautions of bleaching
Unit - 4
There are several things to keep in mind before using bleach for lightening your facial
or body hair
• Use bleach meant for facial or body hair.
• Do patch test.
• Don’t use near eyes, inside nose, ears, scar tissue, warts, moles. Bleach shouldn’t
be used over sunburned, irritated, inflamed or chapped skin, or an area that is
freshly tweezed or shaved.
• Don’t use on extremely exfoliated skin.
• Keep packaged product away from heat and sun. Store bleaching products in a
cool, dry place
• Don’t use a metal dish to mix bleach or apply bleach using anything metal
• Keep bleached area out of direct sunlight for at least 24 hours
• Ventilation: Always make sure the area you are using bleach in is well-ventilated-
open the windows.
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Review Questions
Q1. Fill in the blanks.
a. __________________ type of bleach is good for sensitive skin.
b. __________________ volumes of hydrogen peroxide should be used for
bleaching the facial hair.
c. Bleaching should be done only after doing ____________________ .
Q2. Write down the different types of bleaches.
Q3. Write down the precaution of bleaches.
4.6 Light Make-Up Application

The main objective of applying make-up is to enhance the natural beauty of the face by
emphasizing on good features while minimizing less attractive features. Make-up is an
art and as a make-up artist one must have the fundamental knowledge of –
1) Structure of face.
2) Colors and their relationship to one another.
3) Principles of optical illusion.
Unit - 4
There is no fixed pattern for applying make-up; application may vary from client to
client based on her individual needs; the make-up artist must take following points in
consideration while planning a make-up for her client:
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1) Type of face make-up.

2) Hairstyle.
3) Harmony of color in the clothing. Eye, hair and skin.
4) Individuality of facial features.
5) Personality of the client.
6) Age.
7) Profession.
8) Occasion.
Contra-indications
Part of the skin analysis procedure also involves identifying any contra-indications
before you begin the demonstration. These are existing skin conditions or problems.
Sometimes you won’t be able to do any demonstration on the client. But this happens
rarely. More likely will be the situation where you need to alter the demonstration or
product recommendations.
Contra-indications or untreatable conditions are conditions which prevent a treatment
being performed. For example if the client has scabies, an infectious disease of the skin,
you cannot do any treatments on this highly contagious condition until it has cleared.
Treatments must not be conducted where contagious diseases are present or there is
evidence of infection (redness, pus, tenderness and swelling). Refer your client to a
Unit - 4
medical practitioner.
General contra-indications to lash and brow treatments include:
• Bacterial, viral or fungal infections such as:
− Herpes, warts – viral infections
− Impetigo (also known as ‘school sores’
− fungal infection
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• Micro – organism infections such as scabies and pediculosis (Lice)

• Boils and carbuncles
• bruising or swelling in the treatment area
• cuts and abrasions in the treatment area
• recent scars in the treatment area

Prepare the client for make-up

Any service begins with a warm greeting. You should introduce yourself to the client.
Whilst you are doing that you should make some initial assessments about the client’s
style and requirements.
Unit - 4
The make-up station should be an area that is specifically lit for make-up applications.
Lighting as close as possible to natural light is the first choice for a make-up service.
You will also need to ensure that the area is cool so that the make-up does not become
too warm and change colour or ‘run’. The make-up station should have a large mirror so
that the client can see you working and can ask questions about the different stages of
the make-up process.
Before you apply any make-up to your client you need to ensure that your client feels at
ease and is protected at all times. It is important the client is seated comfortably at your
eye level. The whole face should be clearly visible to allow the work to proceed efficiently.
Adjust the chair before beginning the make-up service. Ensure the client does not have
to stretch their neck to see you. And ensure that you are standing in a comfortable
position so that you can apply the make-up without continuously bending your back.
Cover the client’s clothes with a protective covering, such as a cape. The salon will be
liable for any damage done to clothing or jewellery from make-up spills. Use a headband
or clips to pull back the hair. If the client is having their hair done as well, then the make-up
139
needs to be applied last. If the client wants a brow shape this is best performed a few days
before the make-up service as the skin will be red and prone to possible infection.
Unit - 4
Consult with the client

Your client will come to you with specific needs and expectations. Clarify these needs
by questioning the client to confirm your understanding of their expectations, negotiate
the various aspects of the service and answer any questions they may have. Encourage
the client to raise any concerns so that you can discuss it with them and offer solutions.
When questioning the client, listen carefully to their main concerns about their skin and
make-up requirements.
Identify the image that the client is trying to create. For example, does the client want the
make-up service to be suitable for:
• business
• pleasure
• social occasions
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• a certain time of the day

• special occasion such as a ball or wedding.
Identify skin type and condition

In order to design a suitable make-up plan for your client, you need to consider the
following:
• skin type
• skin condition
• contra-indications.
Cleanse face
Skin cleansing is the first essential requirement for a make-up service because it
prepares the skin for the make-up service by removing dirt, make-up, excess sweat and
oil. However, you need to select a cleanser that is suitable for your client’s skin type and
condition. The cleansing process is completed by applying a toner and moisturizer to
the skin.
Unit - 4
step a step b step c step d step e
Cleansers
The choice of cleanser should be made to suit the client’s skin type. The age of the client
must also be considered as well as any skin problems they may have.
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Type of Cleanser Description and action

Cleansing Milks These come in various consistencies and are formulated for the skin
type nominated by the manufacturer. Depending on the ingredients
these cleansers can be lightweight (sensitive or dry skin) and thicker
emulsions (suitable for removing heavy make-up from an oily skin or
for use on an oily/combination skin).
Foaming cleansers Foaming cleansers are suitable for clients who have been in the
habit of using soap and like a foaming action. If formulated correctly
then the client’s skin will feel fresh and clean but not tight.
Cleansing bars They are usually pH balanced soaps that allow the skin to be
cleansed without irritating.
Medicated cleansers These are for mild to moderate acne and very oily skins that are
prone to breakouts.
Cleansing granules These softly textured creams contain smooth spherical granules,
which remove the surface of the skin and the top of blocked pores,
giving the skin a clean, fresh look. They tend to have a drying effect.
They are usually worked in with gentle circular frictions and then
rinsed off.
Eye make-up remover These specialized products are designed to remove eye make- up
without irritating. They are usually in a cream or a liquid form. Liquid
Unit - 4
removers are most suited to non-water proof eye make-up, whilst

cream removers are more suitable for waterproof eye make-up.
Both should be wiped clean from the eye area after use.
Cleansing procedure
1. Eyelids and lashes
Ensure the client’s eyes are closed, then place an oblong piece of dampened cotton
wool beneath the lashes of the left eye.
1. Eye make-up remover, either on a cotton bud or small squares of damp cotton
wool, should be wiped down and outwards over the top lid. This should be
repeated until all eye make-up is removed from the top lid.
2. Ask the client to open their eyes and gently wipe away any remaining colour
or mascara.
3. Ask the client to close their eyes and wipe over the area with a dampened
cotton square to remove any remaining make-up remover.
4. Dispose of soiled cotton wool.
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5. Repeat the procedure on the right eye.

Note: Do not re-use any cotton buds or wool on the second eye as this can cause cross-
infection.
2. The lips
The following procedure is recommended for lip cleansing:
1. Using two folder squares of dampened cotton wool with a small amount of
cleanser applied to them, support the left side of the mouth and gently wipe
towards the right. Repeat this movement three times.
2. Fold the soiled tissue in on itself and use it to support the right side of the
mouth and wipe towards the left. Repeat this movement three times.
3. Check the lips for remaining lipstick.
4. Dispose of soiled cotton wool.
3. The Face
With damp hands, wet the client’s face.
1. Place an amount of cleanser about the size of a ten-cent piece into the palm of
the hand and add a little water. Rub hands together gently to mix and warm.
2. Mould hands to the mandible (jaw) and stroke alternatively four times.
3. Circle with fingers on cheeks, inward towards the nose.
4. Alternate circles on flare of the nose, slide up the bridge of the nose.
Unit - 4
5. Stroke the forehead alternatively, touching the nose.
6. Make small circles on forehead, down to the temples.
7. Make figure eights on the temples, down the hairline, inwards towards the
flare of the nose and slide fingers up the bridge of the nose.
8. Slide fingers gently over the eyelids from inside to outside, under eyes, through
the eyebrows and under the eyes three times.
9. Using the middle finger, slide it over the top lip six times and through the
mandible depression six times.
10. Slide hands down the neck, interlock fingers and pull upwards along the
mandible six times.
11. Slide down to the left shoulder and stroke one hand after the other around the
décolletage and up the throat to the right side.
12. Mould the mandible with the right and left hands.
13. Slide to the temples with light pressure and lift hands off.
14. Remove cleansing product.
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4. Cleanser removal
1. With two damp sponges, clean the neckline and throat first, one hand after the
other from the left to right.
2. Slide through the mandible right then left.
3. Slide up the forehead, gently stroking all over.
4. Clean the sponges in water.
5. Placing on the forehead with the left hand, slide gently over the left eyelid, left
cheek, left side of the mouth to the outside of the face. Place the left hand on
the forehead.
6. Repeat step 4 on the right side.
7. Clean the sponges in water.
8. Hold the left side of the mouth and wipe through with the right hand, fold the
sponge and repeat with the opposite hand.
9. Slide to the temple, pause with slight pressure and lift off.
10. Place a tissue over the face and blot.
Apply toner and moisturizer suitable to the client’s skin type. Refer to product manual
for suggestions.
On completion of the cleansing sequence the client should be free from tension, relaxed
and starting to unwind.
Unit - 4
Analyze client’s facial shape and features for a make-up

The first step in designing the make-up is to know the ‘canvas’ that you are going to
work on. Doing this accurately will mean that you achieve the best result. There are four
things you need to consider:
• The client’s facial shape
• The image the client wants to create
Facial shapes
Facial shapes are influenced by the structure of facial bones. There are six basic facial
shapes although most people will have a combination of these shapes. The oval is
considered the ideal facial shape. The following is a list of the dominant face shapes:
Oval – length of this face is about 1.5 times longer than its width. The jaw line is softly
curved and the features are even and regular.
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Unit - 4
Triangular – like a pyramid the jaw appears wider and the forehead and cheekbones
are narrow.
Diamond – the face appears widest at the cheekbones and has a narrow forehead
and chin. Round – a full open face where length and breadth are similar, with a softly
rounded chin.
Long – a face that is long and narrow with a thin overall appearance and a long more
pointed chin.
Square – a broad forehead and jaw, this face is angular.
Select suitable products

Most products come in different forms to suit different skins and design factors. You will
find products in powders, creams, liquids and gels and in all types of packaging. The
variety of products available for make-up application includes the following:
• foundations
• powders
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• concealers
• eye cosmetics
• lip cosmetics
Foundation
Foundation is used to give the skin a more youthful, smooth appearance. It also enhances
the skin’s appearance, evens out imperfections and provides a base for the make-up
procedure.

Different formulations perform different roles and it is important that you choose the right
Unit - 4
one for the client.
Foundation Formulation Skin Type Comment

type
Liquid Oil based Dry Normal Mature These give a light to medium
Combination coverage.
Liquid Water based Oily Normal Combination The water evaporates quickly so
skin (oily areas) they need to be applied promptly.
They give a light to medium
coverage.
Cream Oil based Dry Normal Mature Blends easily.
Gives a heavy coverage.
Gel Water based Black, unblemished skin Sheer and non greasy coverage
Tanned skin
Where a client wants a
very natural look
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Foundation Formulation Skin Type Comment

type
Compact or Oil, wax or Dry Normal Blemished Heavy coverage.

cake powder Effective in covering scars and
pigmentation.
Mousse Oil Normal Combination. Light to medium coverage depending

on your application technique.
Mineral Micronize-d All Skin types Non-comedogenic and natural.

minerals Gives a good, light coverage.
Concealers
Concealers are used to hide any blemishes or unwanted colour in the skin. They are
normally cream based and are available in light, medium and dark. They can be found in:
Unit - 4
• stick form – creamy long lasting formulation
• tube – lightweight long lasting formulation
• wand – lightweight long lasting formulation.
Some concealers are available in light colours for use under and around the eyes.
Concealers are usually applied before the foundation.
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Powders
Powders set the foundation, reduce shine by absorbing oil and give a smooth, matte
finish. Pressed powder are compacted and held together with binders.
They include:
Unit - 4
• loose powders based on talc that are lightweight and translucent and allow the
colour to show through.
• compact or pressed translucent colour range more suitable for touching up during
the day.
Blushers
Blushers help to define facial contour. They are available in the following forms:
• powder compact
• powder loose
• cream
• liquid
• gel
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Eye cosmetics
These cosmetics add definition and colour to the eye area. Eye cosmetics include eye
shadows, eyeliners, eyebrow pencils and mascaras.
Eye shadows are used to emphasize the eyes and are available in:
• creams
• powders - pressed or dry
Unit - 4
• crayon
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Eyeliners
Eyeliners add definition by outlining and emphasizing the eyes. These are available in:
• pencil
• liquid
• powder compressed
Unit - 4
Eyebrow colour
These are used to fill in sparse patches, darken the eyebrows and correct the shape.
These are available in:
• pencil
• powder
• mascara
Mascaras
Mascara darkens, thickens, lengthens and so defines the eyelashes. These are available
in:
• liquid
• block
• cream
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Lip cosmetics
Lip cosmetics include lip liners, lipstick, lip gloss and lip balms.
Lip cosmetics are used to define the mouth and enhance the shape of the lips.
Lip liners are used to outline or correct the shape of the lips. They also help keep the
lipstick from ‘bleeding’ or spreading from the lips to the surrounding skin.
Unit - 4
Lipsticks
Some lipsticks are designed to last longer than the standard lipstick. Lipsticks are
available in different forms such as matt, frosted, translucent and cream.
Lip gloss
Lip gloss can be added to the lipstick or used on its own. It adds shine and translucent
but is short lived.
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Lip Balm
These are colorless products that are designed to enhance and protect the quality of the
skin on the lips.
Select tools and equipment

Make-up tools and equipment include the following:
Make-up tools Comment
Sponges Good for blending foundation, concealer and powder. Often in a wedge
shape which makes them easier to use. Thicker end is used on the face
and the thinner end for blending around the eye.
Brushes Good quality brushes are essential to a professional make-up. You will
need a variety of sizes and shapes. You will also need about three sets
so that you can clean and disinfect them between clients.
Lash curler For use before or after mascara.
Disposable These ensure that the mascara does not become infected. Do not
mascara wands double-dip wand into the mascara as you will transfer bacteria from the
client to the mascara.
Hair clips or To hold back the client’s hair.
headband
Cape To protect the client’s clothing
Unit - 4
Tissues To blot make-up and lipstick and to protect client’s hair and clothes.
Spatulas and Disposable items that allow you to hygienically remove a little of the
orange sticks product from the container for use on the client, Do not double-dip.
Cotton Buds Great for fixing mistakes.
Make-up palettes Allow you to mix and prepare products prior to application.
Tweezers To remove hair or to use when applying false eyelashes
Make-up Equipment
Make-up chair or If it is a beauty couch it will need to have an adjustable head.
couch
Trolley or shelf To put all your tools and products on.
Bright lighting This is essential so that the client can clearly see the make-up and you
can easily apply the products.
Magnifying lamp To check the skin for contraindications and areas requiring special
attention
Hand held mirror For client use so that they can see their make-up from different
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Unit - 4
153
Application Techniques of Make-up Products

Concealer Match the colour to nearby skin. If used
under eyes to conceal dark circles use
lightly and make sure you blend the
concealer into the surrounding areas. If
covering a blemish colour selection is
important as a concealer that is lighter
than the surrounding skin colour will
highlight the blemish rather than conceal it.
Concealer is removed from the container
with a spatula and applied with a clean
concealer brush, fingertips or sponge.
Foundation Match the colour selection to the client
skin tone and colour. Foundation should
blend smoothly and there should be
no demarcation line visible between
the skin and where the make-up stops.
Pay particular attention to the jawline.
Foundation is applied with fingertips or a
sponge.
Face Powder Match the colour to the skin. Use a brush

Unit - 4
or powder puff. Blend with the brush and

remove any excess.
Eye shadow To bring out the eyes choose colours

contrasting or complementary colours.
Your client may also want the eye shadow
to match the colour of the clothing. You
can also look at the flecks of colour in the
iris and match the eye shadow. Blending
is important. Eye shadows can be listed
under three headings:
1. Highlighters – lighter than the client’s
skin colour. Used to highlight specific
areas e.g. under the brow bone.
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2. Base colour – close to the client’s skin

colour and is often used to even out the
skin colour on the lid. It is applied all over
the lid and other colours are added.
3. Contour colour – used to camouflage a
particular area. To apply, remove the eye
shadow from the container with a clean
spatula and use a clean brush to apply to
the area. Blend.
Eyebrow Eyebrow cosmetics should not be an

cosmetics obvious contrast to the client’s natural
colour. Sharpen the pencil and wipe with a
clean tissue before and after use.
Eyeliner This can be applied before or after eye

shadow. Most client prefer the colour to
match the eyelashes, but you can use
Unit - 4
contrasting colours if they prefer. You must
be very careful when applying eyeliner
and you must ask the client to stay very
still. Use gentle short strokes and use the
pencil at a parallel angle to the eye. You
may need to pull the skin taut to ensure
a straight application. Sharpen the pencil
and wipe with a clean tissue before and
after use.
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Mascara Ask the client to keep very still and to

apply from the base of the eyelashes to
the tips. You may need to ask the client to
look up when doing the bottom lashes and
to look down when doing the top lashes.
Use a disposable wand and never double
dip. You can comb with a lash separator if
there are clumps.
Blusher If using a powder blush then apply after the

face powder. If using a cream blush then
apply after the foundation. The direction of
application is always towards the hairline.
With powder blusher stroke the contour
brush over the blusher and then tap lightly
to remove any excess. With all blushers
build up colour slowly.
Lip Liner Choose a lip liner that closely matches the

Unit - 4
lipstick colour you have chosen.

Sharpen the lip liner pencil and wipe with a
clean tissue before and after use.
Lip colour Lip colour selection depends on the client’s

preferences, eye colour, skin colour and
lip shape. Remove a small amount of the
lipstick with a spatula. Use a lip brush to
dip into the lipstick on the spatula and
apply to the lips. Outline the lips using the
brush tip and then fill in. You aim is for the
lips to look symmetrical.
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Exercise Question
Theory Questions
a. Explain functions of pack.
b. How does clay pack helps in toning the skin?
c. Explain the importance of the client consultation before facial treatment
d. Write down procedure of bleaching and its precaution.
e. Write down procedure of light make up.
f. Write down the cleansing procedure for eye make-up removal.
g. Make a list of make-up products.
Practical Questions
a. Demonstrate the use of clay mask.
b. Demonstrate the plain facial on the client.
c. Demonstrate the bleaching on face and neck.
d. Demonstrate the light make-up on the model.
Unit - 4
Learning Activities
a) Pair up with a fellow student or a work colleague and fill out the following consultation
card. Fill in the lights haded portion only–you will complete the card as you work
through section A, B and C.
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Sample make-up consultation card

Client details
Name: ___________________________________ Date of birth: ____________________
Address: _________________________________________________________________
Business Ph.: ______________________________ Home Ph.: _____________________
Occupation: ______________________________________________________________
Client needs and occasions: _________________________________________________
Special comments and requests: _____________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
Contraindications Precautions
contagious diseases allergies
any abnormality (eg sun burn) skin sensitivity
any trauma in the area eg bruising any abnormal skin areas
client needs and occasions: contact lenses
Medical information
Unit - 4
Doctor’s name: ____________________________________________________________
List any medications which cause skin sensitivity or dry eyes
_________________________________________________________________________
Skin type
only
dry
combination
Areas requiring highlighting or camouflaging
_________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________
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b) Learning activity
Use the information above to label each of the facial shapes below.

1................................ 2................................
Unit - 4

3................................ 4................................

5 ................................ 6................................
Refer to the Suggested answers section at the end.
159
c) Sample make-up plan
Make-up products Application techniques
foundation
concealer
Face powder
blusher
Eyebrow make-up
Eyeshadow
eyeliner
mascara
Unit - 4
lipstick
Lipliner
other
160
Unit - 5
Hair Care
161
Contents
• Overview
• Assessment Plan
5.1 Shampoo
5.2 Hair Conditioner & Rinses
5.3 Preparation and Procedure for Hair Shampooing & Conditioning
5.4 Henna or Mehendi Application on Head
5.5 Hair Cutting Techniques
5.6 Blow Drying
5.7 Hair Styling and Designing
and Wellness.
• Shampoo
• Hair Conditioner & Rinses
• Preparation and Procedure for Shampooing & Conditioning
Unit - 5
• Henna or Mehendi Application on Head

• Hair Cutting and Styling
• Blow Drying
• Hair Styling and Designing
Resource Material
1. Beauty Therapy the foundation Level II, 2e by Lorraine Nordmann
2. NVQ 2 Hair Dressing ; ISBN 978-0-4354-6202-4
4. Reagents/Prentice – Hall Text book of cosmetology by Mary Healy
162
Learning Outcomes
Unit Topic Outcomes
5.1 Shampoo • Identify Types of shampoo
5.2 Hair Conditioner & Rinses • Identify Types of conditioner and rinses
5.3 Preparation and Procedure for • Identify material and supplies
Shampooing & Conditioning • Identify the procedure of Shampooing and
conditioning
5.4 Henna or Mehendi Application • List of Material and supplements used for Henna
on Head application
• Identify the procedure of Henna or Mehendi
Application on head
5.5 Hair Cutting Techniques • Identify various implements and materials
• Identify sectioning
• Identify medium length cut
5.6 Blow Drying • Identify the blow drying technique
5.7 Hair Styling and Designing • List different types of braids on long hair

Unit Topic Assessment Method Remarks
5.1 Exercise: Question & Answer
Shampoo
Audio Visual Aids
5.2 Hair Conditioner & Exercise: Question & Answer
Rinses Audio Visual Aids; Practical demonstration by the learner
5.3 Preparation and Exercise: Question & Answer
Procedure for Audio Visual Aids; Practical demonstration by the learner
Shampooing &
Conditioning
Unit - 5
5.4 Henna or Mehndi Exercise: Question & Answer
Application on Audio Visual Aids
Head Practical demonstration by the learner
5.5 Hair Cutting Exercise: Question & Answer
Techniques Audio Visual Aids
5.6 Blow Drying Exercise: Question & Answer
Audio Visual Aids
5.7 Hair Styling and Exercise: Question & Answer
Designing Audio Visual Aids
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5.1 Shampoo
Shampoo could be any of various liquid or cream preparations of soap or detergent used
to wash the hair and scalp. Conditioner is a substance used, often after shampooing,
to detangle and improve the condition of the hair. Like shampoo, it is applied to wet
hair and then rinsed out after applying. Shampoos are designed to cleanse the hair
and scalp by roaring oil, dist, dandruff, dead skin, environmental pollutants and other
contaminant particles that gradually build up in the hair. They form the heart of hair care
hog amine. A good shampoo in no interferes with the sebum the natural oil secretion.
Shampoo cannot change the process of overactive oil glands.
History
The word shampoo is derived for the Hindustan word “Campo” in 1762. Shampoo is
originated in Bengal region by Mughal empire. It was introduced as head massage. It
contained alkali, natural oils and fragrance, Before people tried shaved soaping water
and added herbs to give shine and fragrances to the hair. The modern shampoo was
first introduced in 1930 which contains synthetic surfactants.
Washing with shampoo does not dry out hair because an ideal shampoo will not cause
drying of hair or scalp or stimulates greasy scalp.
Composition of Shampoo
Shampoo is generally made by combining a surfactant, most often sodium lauryl sulfate
and/or sodium laurethsulfate with a co-surfactant, most often cocamidopropylbetaine
in water to form a thick, viscous liquid. Other essential ingredients include salt (sodium
chloride), which is used to adjust the viscosity, a preservative and fragrance.[9] Other
ingredients are generally included in shampoo formulations to maximize the following
qualities:
Unit - 5
• Pleasing foam
• Easy rinsing
• Minimal skin/eye irritation
• Feels thick and/or creamy
• Pleasant fragrance
• Low toxicity
• Good biodegradability
• Slightly acidic (pH less than 7)
• No damage to hair
164
Many shampoos are pearlescent. This effect is achieved by addition of tiny flakes of
suitable materials, e.g. glycol distearate, chemically derived from stearic acid, which
may have either animal or vegetable origins. Glycol distearate is a wax. Many shampoos
also include silicone to provide conditioning benefits.
Types of Shampoos
Shampoo contains detergents which remove dirt and grease from hair and can be rinsed
off with water.
All shampoos fall into two categories:
1. Cleaners – those need a follow up conditioners.
2. Shampoo + Conditioners – these shampoo plays double role of a shampoo and
a conditioners most shampoos available are in this category only other special
shampoo are as follows:
• Daily use Shampoo- They are very gentle and have low amounts of cleansers
and generally contains conditioners.
• Dry Shampoo- They are called powder shampoo as well they just now dared
onto the dry hairs and them brushed out. They don’t really clean the hair
but they are helpful when you can’t shampoo hairs because of cold weather
pronged illness, or in hurry, or in long travel these shampoo help.
• Baby Shampoo-These are special shampoos for babies who have very time
their hairs. They are very wild shampoo preparations.
• Shampoo for color treated hairs- These shampoos are rich in natural oils
and moisture so that they can restore water to the hair shaft. They are low in
alkalinity. They don’t have saturated castor oils so that the colordoesn’t strip.
• Shampoos for permed or processed hairs- They are rich in moisturizes and
Unit - 5
protein and are low in alkalinity. They are made for damaged or chemically
treated hair as these hair tangles easily; use instant conditioners after each
shampooing service.
• Medicated Shampoos/Anti-dandruff shampoos – Apart from regular
ingredients for moral daily use shampoos they contains some special
chemicals to remove dandruff such azonic. Tar derivatives, anti-bacterial as
well as antifungal etc.
♦ Anti lice Shampoo – Applied in proper manner they can kill the lice
these shampoos contains Gama benzene hexa chloride as permethrin,
a carbaryl or melathion etc.
165
• pH Balance Shampoo- These shampoos have pH factor similar to the stains

hair, which is between 4.5 to the 5.5. The counteracts the effect of chemicals
on the scalp.
• Herbal Shampoos- These shampoos are prepared with plant extract and
herbs. There natural shampoos are beneficial for all types of hairs. They
contain shikakai, amla, trifala etc.
• Two-in-one Shampoo: Contains detergent to clean your hair and few drops
of conditioner to moisturize your hair. Gives quick results because your hair
can be shampooed and conditioned at the same time.
• Peroxide Shampoo: This shampoo is used to give hair brightening and
highlightingaffect. These shampoos are strong and can lighten the natural
color of hair and thus should not be used on regular basis.
Review Questions
a) List the qualities of good shampoo.
c) Name two categories of shampoos.
d) Name the main ingredient of Anti Lice shampoo?
5.2 Hair Conditioners & Rinses

Natural oil sebum secreted by scalp helps to keep hair glossy, sometimes there oil
glands may not produce enough oil in this case conditioning adds brilliance to oil
types of hair especially dry hair can be benefited to get a luminous shine. All types of
hair require conditioning conditioners help the hairs that has been exposed to excess
sunlight bleaching harming faulty diet. Conditioners help to find in moisture and keep the
hair smooth & self-conditioning helps in removing tangles and makes the hair easy to
Unit - 5
message conditioners should be applied to freshly shampoo hair that has been blotted
by with a towel to remove excess moisture.
HISTORY – For centuries natural oils have been used to condition human hair. This
natural product oil is still used today. Modern conditioner was created in 20th century
called brilliantine. Conditioners were made with silicon, fatty alcohols and some
ammonium compounds. These chemical products allow the benefits of hair conditioner
without feeling greasy or heavy hair conditioner is a thicker substance which coats the
cuticle of the hair.
166
Hair Rinse
Hair rinse is the product you use to coat your hair after shampooing & Conditioning. The
main aim of Hair rinse is to restore the acid-alkaline balance of the scalp. Hair rinses
gives luster and volume to hair. There are two types of hair rinses natural and chemical.
Chemical based rinses are available in the market. Some commonly used natural rinses
are Natural rinses are Tea Rinse, Lemon Rinse, Beer Rinse, Vinegar Rinse, Chamomile
rinse.
Hair Conditioners
When considering the question of how hair conditioner works you first need to know
about the structure of hair. Hair, as you may know, is composed of a protein called
keratin. This fact is important because keratin has a high percentage of those amino
acids which have negative charges sticking out, like the hairs on a nettle.
The next thing you need to know is that most hair conditioners contain positively charged
molecules called cationic surfactants. Soap, shampoo, and other cleaners contain
surfactants (also called detergents) that are anionic; that is, negatively charged. These
cleaners are very effective at removing dirt, but they also remove natural oils and positive
charges from the hair.
The positively charged surfactants in hair conditioner are attracted to the negative
charges in your hair, and do not rinse out completely with water. When the hair dries, it is
coated with a thin film, which adds weight, makes the hair easier to comb, and prevents
static electricity from building up and ‘frizzing’ the hair.
Types of Conditioners
Conditioners add brilliance to all types of hairs, especially the dry hairs. Sebum the
natural oil secreted by the scalp helps to keep the hair glossy sometimes oil glands may
Unit - 5
not produce enough oil or other factors may affect the production of sebum
Glossy hair has cuticle scales that lie flat and neatly overlap. In this condition, hair
reflects the light. Chemical perming or colouring and rough handling of hairs conspire to
lift the cuticle, which allows moisture to be lost from the cortex which in turns make the
hair dry and luster less and prone to tangle. Hairs get thinner and breakeasily. To put the
shine backandto repair the split ends, it is necessary to use a specific conditioner.
• Basic Conditioners – They coat the hair with a fine film temporarily smooth the
cuticle and making the hair shiny & soft. They should leave on the scalp for few
minutes before rinsing out. They are available for all hair types. The restore body
and acid volume to the hairs. They include protein and polymer fibers.
167
• Conditioning sprays – They are used prior to styling and form a protective barrier
against the harmful effects of heat. They are also good for reducing static electricity
on flyway hairs.
• Intensive conditioners – These helps the hair to retain their natural moisture
good for split, dry – frizzy or difficult to managed hairs.
• Leave in Conditioner – Apply after shampoo but don’t rinse off. These form a
barrier around your hair, which reduces damage from heat styling. Available in form
of spray, liquid and monssier.
• Hot oils – Good for very dry and damaged hairs. They give an intensive, deep
nourishing treatment. Olive and Almond oil is good for dry hairs. They coats the hair
shaft and repairs a damaged cuticles.
• Deep Conditioners – This is used of excessively brittle & broken hairs. They
contains large amount of protein and it should be applied over a long time for
absorption.
• Restructurants- Good for flat hairs which is damaged and lost its elasticity. They
penetrate the cortex and helping to repair the inner part of damaged hair.
• Color/Perm Conditioner – They are specially designed for chemically treated
hairs. Add a protective film around porous areas of hair it helps in preventing colour
loss. After perm it helps to stabilize the hair and helps to keep the bounce in curls.
• Split end treatment/Serum – They condition the damaged hairs. As an intermediate
solution, hair can’t be temporarily sealed from the ends. They worked on newly
washed hair, they surround the hairs with a microscopic film that leaves the hair
shaft smoother.
Review Questions
a) Name few commonly used natural rinses!
Unit - 5
b) Why conditioner is used after shampooing?

c) List the types of conditioner available in the market.
d) Restructurant conditioner is good for which hair type?
5.3 Preparation and Procedure for Hair Shampooing &

Conditioning
Trolley Setting
This is a preparation of work unit which is based on the type of shampooing and
168
procedure to be followed. This unit is to provide hair shampooing and conditioning

service to the client. You will develop the ability to perform a variety of manual hair
shampooing techniques using a range of different products and equipments. This unit
will also develop your ability to provide after care advice to the clients.
Following are the common list of equipment and material used for shampooing:
Equipment
• Shampoo basin
• Hot and Cold spray unit
• Shampoo chair
Material
• Gloves
• Neck cape
• Towels
• Combs
• Brushes
• Cotton
• Eye pads
Cosmetics
• Shampoo & Conditioner (as required)
Preparation of The Client
Instructions for Draping the Clients
Unit - 5
• Wash your hands.
• Ask your client to remove all the jewellery and glasses and secure in safe place.
• Pull the client’s hair up into a clip turn the client’s shirt colour inward and place a
towel lengthwise over the clients shoulders and cross the towel ends in front. You
may secure the crossed ends with a clip.
• Position a plastic cover over the towel and secure it. Pull the back of the cape over
the outside of the shampoo chair to prevent wetting the client’s clothes.
• Examine the scalp and hair thoroughly before washing. Begin at the ends of the
hair and brush the hair to remove any tangles.
169
• You can use either a front wash basin or backwash basin.
Review Questions
True or False
a) Before shampooing hair and scalp analysis is not necessary (T/F)
b) Temperature of water should be checked before starting the procedure of
shampooing. (T/F)
c) Tower should be secured on to the neckcape (T/F).
d) Detangling of hair should be done before proceeding for head wash (T/F)
Procedure of Hair Shampooing & Conditioning

• Seat client comfortably.
Unit - 5
• Turn ON water and test temperature before applying to client’s scalp and wet hair
thoroughly.
• Apply appropriate shampoo effectively to the hair using circular movement on the
head.
• Turn the water ON and check the temperature before rinsing the first shampoo
application.
• Apply second shampoo application using circular movement and continue until
hairs lather well and all the hair has been covered. If hairs do not lather well due
to excessive build up of a product or grease, you may need to repeat with a third
shampoo.
170

Wet the hair thoroughly Apply Shampoo
• After rinsing the shampoo thoroughly, apply conditioner and leave for 2-3 minutes
or as per the directions given by the manufacturer.
• Thoroughly rinse OFF the conditioner from the scalp and hair.
• Wrap the towel securely to avoid drips.
Unit - 5
Massage the Scalp to remove oil & debris and thoroughly rinse off the shampoo
Disposal of Waste Material

There are two kinds of tools commonly used in shampooing & conditioning in salon:
non-porous (which can be disinfected and are generally reusable) and porous (which
are either one-use only [disposable] items or require specific cleaning protocol). Know
what each implement you use is, as it directly affects your ability to comply with state
laws and keep clients safe.
Porous items are made of cloth, wood, or other absorbent materials. Porous items
include cotton, paper mats, towels, and buffer blocks. Porous items that are damaged or
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destroyed by cleaning or disinfection procedures are single-use items (disposable) and

must be thrown away after one use.
• Porous items of any type (including those that say they can be disinfected) that are
contaminated by blood, body fluid, broken skin (skin that is not intact), infections,
or unhealthy conditions must be thrown in the trash.
• Towels, chamois, and similar items can be cleaned in a washing machine with
regular detergent at the end of each day.
Non-porous items are made of hard materials like metal, plastic, or glass, and include
nippers, scissors, combs, metal
• All non-porous tools can be (and must be) disinfected even if they do not contact
blood or unhealthy conditions. These are all multi-use items.
• To clean a non-porous item, clean all visible debris then completely immerse the
tool for 10 minutes in a disinfectant, bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water),
or 70% or higher isopropyl or ethyl alcohol.
• Other items that are not designed to touch skin, and are used in waterless products
such as nail polish, acrylic monomer and powder, or light-cured gels, do not spread
germs and do not need to be disinfected. Brushes that are used to remove debris from
a shampoo basin, must be properly cleaned and disinfected between each use.
Products How Why

Aerosols Fully empty. Don’t bend or Highly flammable. Gasses may
pierce container. Place in bin ignite.
that will not contain hot ashes.
Chemical waste Dilute with water. Wash down Contact with chemicals can be
basin harmful, but are less effective
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when diluted.
Sharps/Glass Wrap up any sharps in paper Sharps and glass can be dangerous
or tissue before disposal in if not securely contained.
cardboard box.
Recyclable containers Fully clean and dry containers
before clearly marking them
Safety Practices in Shampooing & Conditioning

• Read and follow manufacturers’ instructions for products used in the salon. Labels
include information about how to use the product safely, expiration dates, safety
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precautions to be followed in case of a spill or reaction, and proper disposal. Also,

be sure to follow local and state regulations for chemical disposal.
• Have a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) on file in your salon for every product
used in the salon that could cause injury or harm. MSDS include important information
about reactions, spills, ingredients, and disposal of chemicals. Make certain that
the information on the MSDS is read and understood by all salon workers. Most
states require MSDS to be available upon request by an inspector, and a fine might
be levied for salons that don’t have them, so keep MSDS for all of your products in
an easily accessible location. Many manufacturers have MSDS on their websites
that can be easily downloaded.
• Proper ventilation in salons is essential for client and worker safety and comfort.
Make certain that your ventilation system provides fresh air intake as well as
exhaustion of stale air. Air control in the salon reduces your exposure to airborne
particles and bacteria as well as reduces your inhalation of product vapors, creating
a healthier work environment.
• Use a ventilation system that directs airborne debris (like filing dust) away from the
breathing zone (the two foot square area between your mouth and nose and your
work area) of you and your client. A mask can also be worn for further protection.
• Use a metal trashcan with a lid (a self-closing trashcan is ideal) to reduce vapors
from soiled material getting into the salon. This also reduces odor.
• Smoking should never be permitted in a salon, nor should lighted candles be used
anywhere. Store all chemicals in closed containers, always away from any sources
of heat or ignition.
Precautions and Contra Indications

• The client must be adequately protected from water so clothes should be completely
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covered by a gown and towels tucked well down at the nape. If a front wash is to be
used the client should be given a face cloth to protect their eyes and possibly make
up.
• Hairs must be untangles before Shampooing.
• The temperature of the water should be checked on the wrist or the back of the
hand before using.
• Correct shampoo should be used for the type of hairs.
• Liquid shampoo should be allowed to run over the back of the hand then the scalp
to minimize coldness.
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• Cream shampoo should be applied to the palm of the hand before being evenly
distributed over the whole head.
• Friction hand massage should be used in circular movements from hairline to crown
throughout the whole head.
• Care must be taken to ensure that the hair is thoroughly rinsed after each
massage.
• After shampooing hair should be towel dried and untangle away from the face.
Contra-Indications
• Do not use in case of hyper sensitivity from any chemical.
• In case of accidental contact with eyes rinse with plenty of water.
• If shampoo or conditioner gets on your clothes, face or any other part of the body
it should be completely washed immediately to prevent skin irritation.
• Stop using the product if any of the following occurs – difficulty in breathing, skin or
eye irritation, scalp irritation or redness on the scalp.
Review Questions
Fill in the blanks
a) Test the _____________ of water before wetting client’s hair.
b) _______________ should be applied after the shampooing.
c) Shampoo should be applied using ____________ movement.

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d) Porous material used in shampooing is generally __________ type.
5.4 Henna or Mehndi Application on Head

Mehndi is a natural plant not a chemical or ink. It grows in a hot temperature. It gives
only one colour that is orange – reddish tone. It’s scientific term is LawsoniaIneamis.
After applying henna to your hair you should give 1-2 weeks break for another hair
treatment. About 200-300 gms of Henna powder is needed for an average length of hair
every time.
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Material and implements used

• Henna
• Towels
• Dye cape
• Double Boiler
• Rubber gloves
• Wide tooth comb
• Clips hairbrush
• Shampoo + Rinse
• Plastic Bowl
Henna preparation
Preparing the henna, gather the following:
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• Towels (use old ones, they will get stained)
• Plastic bowl
• Large spoon for stirring
• Plastic cling wrap
• Acidic liquid such as lemon juice, apple cider vinegar or orange juice (if desired)
• Water (preferably filtered)
• Dry henna powder, enough for your length of hair
• Tint brush
• Disposable latex or vinyl gloves
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Place the dry henna powder in the bowl. Add a small amount of the acidic liquid to the
powder and enough water to make a paste that is the consistency of yogurt. Stir well to
remove lumps. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let set until the dye releases from
the henna, usually around 12 hours at 70 degrees F (21 degrees C).

Drape towel around shoulders to protect clothing and cover surfaces of the area that you
will be in when you apply your henna. Put on the gloves. To apply henna, section hair
and apply it to one section at a time until all of your hair is covered, making sure that you
get it all the way down to the roots.
After you have your hair covered with the henna, wrap your hair in plastic wrap, then
cover it with a shower cap. It’s important to keep the henna moist while it is processing.
Allow it to remain on the hair for 2 to 4 hours. Rinse out with water. Shampoo and
condition, if desired
Tips
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• To make removal of the henna easier, use some conditioner. Rinse the henna with
water, then work some conditioner in and rinse again. Repeat if necessary.
• To speed up the processing time, use heat, such as a bonnet style hair dryer or
a heat cap. For every 30 minutes of heat applied reduce the processing time by
1/2.
• Henna will stain. Make sure to clean up and spills immediately, and wear old clothes
when applying.
• If your scalp is sensitive or your hair is normally dry, use orange juice for your acidic
liquid, or don’t use any acidic liquid at all, just use water.
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• If your henna is too bright after 48 hours have passed, you can do another
application.
• If your hair color is getting too dark, try applying it to the roots only when you do
touch-ups.
Henna Color Choices

The reds are the most used, have the least amount of additives, and- if they are pure are
completely safe. The browns and blonds are available too.
Henna does not lighten hair. It won’t lift the color, like commercial dyes can do. So you
must get a shade that somewhat matches your own, or is darker. Brunettes can easily
go red; blonds can go brunette or red. But there’s no way a brunette can go blond.
A Few Words of Caution

• Do not use henna over commercially colored hair. It’s safest to wait at least 2
months after a commercial dye job, before using henna. Do strand test before
applying henna on chemically coloured hair.
• About a week or so before you’re planning to henna, use a clarifying shampoo.
That will help strip out the old color.
• Be sure you’re buying a brand of henna that does not contain metallic salts. These
are extremely unhealthy. They may be labeled on the box as compound henna
dye, or they may not be listed at all.
• How can you tell if your henna contains metallic salts if they’re not listed in the
ingredients? If your strand test leaves your hair swatch brittle or dried-out, or if the
color “takes” very quickly, that probably means it contains metallic salts. Don’t use
it.
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• Black henna is alright to use as long as it’s made with Indigo.
Procedure
• Seat and prepare the client.
• Cover the clients clothing with Dye Cape.
• Mix and heat henna in a double boiler.
• Mix 3 table spoon of henna.
• Two table spoon strong coffee or tea decoction.
• One egg
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• 1 Teaspoon ground fenugreek powder.

• ½ tea spoon of coconut oil.
• 1 cup of soaked dried Amla.
• Measure and mix the ingredients until smooth. Blend well shampoo hair.
• Use only one application of shampoo and rinse with water.
• Towel Dry, leave hair little moist so the henna will reach the deep surface and
action will be faster.
• Protect hands with rubber gloves.
• Comb and part the hair in four sections.
• Apply henna paste.
• Check the henna temperature.
• Use brush or gloved hand for application.
• Start from nape and work upward with making 1 inch partings.
• Work quickly and apply thoroughly so that colouring will be equivalent.
• Leave 1 inch around face line free from henna until rest of hair has started to
develop colour.
• Apply henna to face line to avoid discolouration.
• Put cap on to avoid dripping.
• Test the desired shade by judging the time, you can apply steamed towel to faster
the action.
• Rinse out henna with water spray.
• Shampoo hair to remove stains from the scalp & set hair in desired style.
• Clean and sterilize equipments and make out record of the clients.
Benefits & Contra indications of Henna

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Benefits
• Henna gives the colour to your hair.
• It makes the hair healthy, strong, thick and silky.
• Henna is considered to be a natural conditioner for hair.
• Henna makes hair manageable and tangle free.
• Henna don’t gives any side effect like other chemical hair colours do.
• It helps to control dandruff.
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Contra indications
• Although rare but henna reaction may occur, when contacted with skin.
• May give symptoms of itching, redness and even scaly dryness.
• Those with naphthalene sensitivity, or has ever been advised by the physician not
to use aspirin and anti-inflammatory drugsshould not apply Henna.
• People with traumatic symptoms are advised not to use henna.
Sanitation techniques for shampooing, conditioning & hair care:

• Sweep floors clean after each client service, especially after every shampooing
and conditioning service
• Deposit all waste materials in a waste receptacle with a self-closing lid
• Mop floors and vacuum carpets daily.
• Control all types of dust.
• Keep windows, screens, and curtains clean.
• Regularly clean fans, ventilation systems, and humidifiers.
• Keep all work areas well lit.
• Keep rest rooms clean and tidy. Remember to clean bathroom door handles.
• Provide toilet tissue, paper towels, and pump-type liquid soap in the rest room
• Provide disposable drinking cups.
• Avoid touching your face, mouth, or eye areas during services.
• If you drop an implement on the floor, disinfect it before using it again. Properly
clean and disinfect all tools and implements after each use and store them in a
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clean, covered container
• Do not place any tools, combs, rollers, or hairpins in your mouth
• Keep the outside of all containers clean.
• Make sure all containers are properly marked, tightly closed, and properly stored.
• Wear clean, freshly laundered clothing.
• Empty waste receptacles regularly throughout the day.
• Prohibit eating, drinking, and smoking in areas where services are performed
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• Never place food in refrigerators used to store salon products.

• Keep the salon free from insects and rodents
• Clean and disinfect all work surfaces, including manicure tables, aesthetic beds,
workstations, and chairs, between client services. Clean shampoo bowls and
disinfect the neck of the bowl after each client.
• Use only freshly laundered or new disposable linens on clients. Use separate
closed containers for soiled linens. Use disposable towels or tissues whenever
possible. Use neck strips or towels to ensure that there is no skin contact shampoo
capes. Disinfect all linens during the wash cycle with detergent and bleach.
• Monitor air quality in the salon. Four to ten air changes per hour are recommended
for public buildings. Air changes remove suspended particles such as hair spray,
nail filings, and microscopic particles
Review Questions
True or False
a) Strand test should be done before applying Henna on Chemically coloured hair
(T/F).
b) Natural colour of Henna is orange (red) (T/F)
c) Henna cannot be used as natural hair conditioner (T/F)
d) Henna should not be applied for sensitive scalp condition (T/F).
5.5 Hair Cutting Techniques

A haircut, hairdo, or hairstyle, refers to the styling of hair, usually on the human scalp.
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The fashioning of hair can be considered an aspect of personal grooming, fashion, and
cosmetics.
Hair style is a statement one makes with hair.The way hair is styled has mostly to
do with personal taste and hair texture.There are many ways to style hair. The most
popular ways to style are by cutting, Blow Drying, and hair styling using Products or
letting it dry naturally.
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Tools and their Uses

Wide-tooth, tall, barber and styling combs Types of brushes.
Anyone cutting hair is only as good as his tools. You need to understand the function
and characteristics of your tools, how to use them in way that is safe for both yourself
and your client, and how to position your body so that your energy and effectiveness are
maximized and protected.
Haircutting tools for your best results at your working in haircut use only superior
implements from a reliable manufacturer, use them properly, and take good care of
them.
• Haircutting shears – Mainly used to cut blunt or straight lines in hair. May also
be used to “slide cut, ” and for other texturizing techniques. The words shears and
scissors are sometimes used interchangeably.
• Thinning shears – Mainly used to remove bulk from the hair. Sometimes referred
to as texturizing shears, tapering shears, or notching shears. Many different types
of thinning shears are used today, with varying amounts of teeth in the blades. A
general rule of thumb is that the more teeth there are, the less hair is removed.
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Notching shears are usually designed to remove more, hare with larger teeth set
farther apart.
• Straight razor or razor shaper – Mainly used when a softer effect is desired on
the ends of the hair. Razors can be used to create an entire haircut, to thin hair out,
or to texturize in certain areas. Razors come in different shapes and sizes, with or
without guards.
• Clippers – Mainly used when creating short tapers, short haircuts, fades, and flat
tops. Clippers can be used without a guard to “shave” hair right to the scalp, with
cutting guards at various lengths, or in the “clipper-over-comb” technique. Two
types of clippers available in the market 1) manual, 2) electric.
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• Wide-tooth comb- Mainly used to detangle hair. Rarely used when performing a
haircut.
• Sectioning clutches- These come in a variety of shapes, styles, and sizes and
can be made of plastic or metal. These comes in large or small sizes.
• Barber comb- Mainly used for close tapers in the nape and sides when using the
shears-over-comb technique. The narrow end of the comb allows the shears to get
very close to the head.
• Styling or cutting comb- Also referred to as all-purpose comb, used for most
haircutting procedures. It can be 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) in length and has fine
teeth at one end, wider teeth at the other.
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Holding The Shears

Properly holding tools is important can help to avoid muscles strain in hands, arms, neck
& back.
• Open your right hand (left hand if you are left-handed), and place the ring finger in
the finer grip of the still blade and the little finger in the finger brace (tang)
• Place the thumb in the finger grip (thumb grip) of the moving blade.
• Practice opening and closing the shears. Concentrate on moving only your thumb.
A great way to get the feel of this is to lay the still blade against the palm or forefinger
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of your other hand, which holds it still while you move the other blade with your
thumb.
Holding the Shears and Comb

During the haircutting process, you will be holding both the comb and the shears at the
same time. You may be tempted to put the comb down while cutting, but in the long run
this wastes a lot of time. It is best to learn early how to hold both tools during the entire
haircutting process.
• Palming the shears – Remove your thumb from the thumb grip, leaving your ring
and little fingers in the grip and finger rest. Curl your fingers in to “palm” the shears,
which keeps them closed while you comb or part the hair. This allows you to hold
the comb and the shears at the same time.
• Tension – Tension in haircutting is the amount of pressure applied when combing
and holding a subsection, created by stretching or pulling the subsection. Tension
ranges from minimum to maximum. You control tension with your fingers when
you hold the subsection of hair between them. The teeth of the comb also affect
tension; greater tension can be achieved with closer and finer teeth. Consistent
tension is important for consistent, even results in a haircut. Use maximum tension
on straight hair where you want precise lines. With curly or hair, however, a lot of
tension will result in the hair shrinking even more than usual when it is dry.
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Use of scissor for cutting
The shear, or scissor is the instrument that is used for most hairshaping or haircutting.
Shear come in various lengths and weights and differ in the quality of the steel they are
made from.
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A tapering or thinning shear is used to thin the hair where there is too much bulk. It may
also be used to blend in and shape a haircut that has left the hair with stubby, blunt ends.
These shears may have notched edges on just one blade or on both of them. They are
available with from thirty to forty six teeth. Tapering shears with only one notched blade
remove more hair than do shears with double notched blades. This is because hair that
fits between the blade notches is not removed when the blades are closed over the hair
strand, and there are more notches on a double notched blade. The more teeth the
shear has, the finer the thinning.
Sectioning for Haircuts

The purpose of sectioning for a haircut is to determine the actual size of the head.
Sectioning is very important because the most important part of any haircut is determining
the distribution of hair to the top, the two sides, the crown, and the nape. If you consider
that sectioning is done for this reason alone, you will understand why all haircuts require
similar sectioning, based on the bone structure of the individual head. Depending on the
style you want to achieve, the angles of the cut will vary in direction within the various
sections.

Sectioning for the Top

The correct amount of hair to be parted off for the top section. The small protrusions on
either side of the head, starting at the center part on the top of the head, run your fingers
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lightly down the side of your head toward the ear. The top section extends back to the
highest point of the head. This highest point is easier to see by making a center part in
the hair and then looking at the patron’s head from the side.
Sectioning for the Nape

The crown section of hair pinned up out of the way, you have the right amount of hair
that belongs in the nape section. To determine the width of the section by placing your
fingers behind the ears and feeling for the projection of the end of the temporal bones.
By using these bones as your guide, the exact amount of the hair for the nape, and it will
be centered exactly in the middle of the back of the head.
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Sectioning for the Sides

After the top, crown, and nape have been sectioned off, the sides have been outlined.
Now see the division between the top section, the crown section, and the nape section.
Hair partings within the section are determined by the type of haircut to be given.
For a layered haircut, vertical parting are used within the sections. For a one-length cut,
horizontal partings are used. The angle used for each of the partings will vary depending
upon the style. The sides and the nape section are parted in the same manner.
Safety in Haircutting
It is absolutely essential for you to keep in mind that when you are cutting hair, accidents
can happen. You will be handling sharp tools and instruments, and you must always
safeguard yourself and your client by following the proper precautions.
• Always palm the shears and the clippers when combing or parting the hair. This
keeps the points of the shears closed and pointed away from the client while
combing, which prevents you from cutting yourself or the client. Palming the shears
also reduces strain on the index finger and thumb while combing the hair.
• At the time of cutting around the ears or in the case of shorter haircuts, take extra
care not to accidentally cut the ear.
• While cutting bangs or any area close to the skin, balance the shears by placing
the tip of the index finger of your left hand (right hand if you cut left-handed) on the
pivot point. This prevents the client from being accidentally poked with the shears
if she moves suddenly. This also helps to balance your shears and cut a cleaner
line.
• At the time of working with electric clipper always use a guard. Once you are
comfortable with holding, palming, and cutting with the razor, you may practice
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without a guard, but always let your instructor be your guide.
Review Questions
a. What is the purpose of hair sectioning?
b. Write the various techniques of hair sectioning?
c. Write different kinds of tools used in haircut
d. What is the role of thinning shear?
e. What are the safety measures taken during a haircut.
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A Medium-Length Haircut
This type of haircut is perfect for extremely fine hair. It can vary in length from the chinline
to just above the shoulders.
Materials & implements

Shampoo apron and towel
Shampoo Comb
Clips Shears Razor
Procedure
1. Drape the patron and shampoo the hair.
2. Determine the basic sections, using the bone structure of the patron’s head.
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3. Part the hair into four sections for this particular style. Notice that the top section
has been divided in the center and that each half of the section has been combined
with the side section
4. Part off the lower third of hair in the nape section and clip the rest of the hair up
out of your way. The part will extend across the nape from the bones behind each
ear.
5. Comb the hair that is hanging down from each side toward the center of the head.
Hold your comb vertically from the protrusion of the occipital bone to the hairline to
establish the middle of the section.
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6. Hold the hair with your fingers, position your shears horizontally, and cut off at the
desired length. Notice that the natural inverted curve has perfect proportions from
shorter center to longer sides. This is the rest of using the bone structure of the
individual head to determine the sections.
7. Comb the hair to the center, using the first cut as a guide. Again cut straight across.
The lengths should fall evenly. This helps to create weight an makes fine hair look
thicker.
8. Following the outline of the ear, part of strip of hair from nape section to the front
hairline.
9. Comb this strip, the guideline hair, back toward the nape section. Use the shears in
a horizontal positions and place the hair in the same length as the nape section.
10. Comb down the rest of the side hair and all of the top section to blend in with the
guideline just completed.
11. Following the angle of the hairline, part off a narrow strip of hair to use as a guide.
12. Insert the comb parallel to the hairline (with the teeth of the comb toward the face)
into this strip of hair. Move the hair toward the face and then down to the angle of
the guideline hair.
13. Cut the hair at the same length and angle.
14. Continue cutting the top and side section together using the same narrow, angled,
vertical partings as above.
15. Cut the opposite side of the head in the same manner.
16. The finished side should blend evenly with the back, with the top hair the same
length as the guideline hair.
17. Part off a curved narrow strip of hair across the bottom of the crown section.
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18. Comb this strip of hair toward the center of the head. The hair length and angle
should follow the guide established in the nape section.
19. Continue cutting the crown section, using narrow partings and following the
established curve.
20. The finished haircut should be the same length from top hair to nape and should
follow a continuous line from back to front. This creates the weight necessary to
give thinner hair a fuller look.
21. Blow-dry the haircut. In order to get a true reading of the haircut, it best to perform
a smooth blow-dry, with very little lift at the scalp.
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22. Once the haircut is dry, have the client stand. Check the line in the mirror. You
should see an even, horizontal line all the way around the head. This is the time to
clean up any hair at the neckline and to check where the hair falls when dry. Use
the wide teeth of the comb to connect the crown area. If this section was left longer
during the haircut, Now is the time to connect it into the line.
23. Remove the drape and neck strip from the client and dispose of properly.
24. Brush loose hair from the client’s neck and face. Escort the client to the reception
area.
5.6 Blow Drying

Blow drying is the technique of drying and styling damp hair in one operation-has
revolutionized the hairstyling world. Today’s women desire hairstyles that require the
least time and effort to maintain. The selection of styling tools, techniques, and products
must relate to the client’s lifestyle.
Tools for Blow-Dry Styling

The following the basic tools used for blow-drying techniques.
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The Blow Dryer
A blow-dryer is an electrical device designed for drying and styling hair in a single service.
Its main parts are a handle, a slotted nozzle, a small fan, a heating element, and speed/
heat controls. Some also come with cooling buttons. The temperature control panel
helps to produce a steady stream of air at the desired temperature. The blow-dryer’s
nozzle attachment, or concentrator, is a directional feature that can direct the air stream
to any section of the hair more intensely. The diffuser attachment causes the air to flow
more softly and helps to accentuate or keep textural definition.
To keep your blow-dryer as a safe and effective as possible, make sure that it is always
perfectly clean and free of dirt, grease, and hair before using. Dirt or hair in the device
could cause extreme heat and hair burn. The air intake tat the back of the dryer must be
kept clear at all times . if this intake is covered and air cannot pass through freely, the
dryer element could burn out.
Combs and Picks

Combs and picks are designed to distribute and part the hair. They come in a wide
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variety of sizes and shapes to adapt to many styling options. The length and spacing
of the teeth may vary from one comb to another. Teeth that are closely spaced remove
definition from the curl, thus creating a smooth surface, while widely spaced teeth shape
larger sections of hair for more surface texture. Combs with picks at one end lift the hair
away from the head.
Brushes
When choosing a styling brush, take into account the texture, length, and styling
needs of the hair that you are working with. Brushes come in many sizes, shapes, and
materials.
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Brushes
• A classic styling brush is a half-rounded rubber-based brush with smooth round-
ended nylon quills, usually in either seven or nine rows. They are heat resistant
and antistatic, ideal for smoothing and untangling all types of hair. While they are
perfect for blow-drying precision haircuts where not too much volume is desired,
they are less suitable for smooth classic shapes with rounded edges. Excellent
airflow through the brush is also a feature of the classic styling brush.
• Paddle brushes, with their large, flat bases, are well suited for mid-to longer-
length hair.
• Grooming brushes are generally oval with pure natural bristles or quills of bristle
and nylon mix. The nylon bristles stimulate the circulation of blood to the scalp.
• Vent brushes, with their ventilated design, are used to speed up the blow-drying
process, and are ideal for blow-drying fine hair.
• Round brushes come in different diameters. The client’s hair should be able to
wrap twice around the brush. Round brushes normally have natural bristles. Large
round brushes can be used to lift the hair at the scalp. Some round brushes have
metal cylinder bases so that the heat from the blow-dryer is transferred to the metal
base, creating a stronger curl.
• A teasing brush is a nylon styling brush that has a tail for sectioning, along with a
narrow row of bristles. Teasing brushes are perfect for backcombing hair and then
smoothing out the hair into a style, using the sides of the bristles.
• Sectioning clutches. These clutches are usually metal or plastic and have long
prongs to hold wet or dry sections of hair in place. It is important to keep whatever
wet hair you are not working on sectioned off in clutches so that the wet hair does
not sit over the dry hair, especially when drying long hair.
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Roll the hair to the base Full base section for blow-drying.
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Syling Materials
• Styling lotions. It is known as “liquid tools”. They give a style more hold and can
add shine and curl, or take curl away.
• Foam or mousse is a light, airy, whipped styling product that resembles shaves
foam. It builds moderate body and volume into the hair. Massage it into damp
hair to highlight textural movement, or blow-dry it straight for styles in which body
without texture is desired. Foam is good for fine hair because it does not weigh the
hair down. It will hold for six to eight hours in dry conditions. Conditioning foams are
excellent for drier, more porous hair.
• Gel is a thickened styling preparation- firm-bodied and usually clear or transparent-
that comes in a tube or bottle and probably has the strongest hold of all products,
other than a finishing spritz or spray. It creates the strongest control for slicked or
molded styles and distinct texture definition when spread with the fingers. When
brushed out, it creates long-lasting body. Gel that produces the longest hold may
overwhelm fine hair because of its high resin level. This is not a concern if fine hair
is molded into the lines of the style and does not get brushed through when dry.
Liquid gels or texturizers are lighter and more viscous, or liquid, in form. They
allow for easy styling, defining, and molding. With bushing, they add volume and
body to the style. Straightening gels relax the hair for a smooth, straight look, with
the most hold in dry outdoor conditions, when applied to damp hair that is wavy,
curly, or extremely curly and then blow-dried.
Unit - 5
Finished style
191
• Volumizers are sprayed into the base of fine, wet hair add volume to the shape,
especially at the base
• Hair spray, or finishing spray, is applied in the form of a mist to hold a style in
position. It is the most widely used hairstyling product. Available in a variety of
holding strengths, in both aerosol ornonaerosol sprays, it is useful for all hair types
and effective in dry or damp weather.
Hair being diffused
Procedure
Blow-Drying
Implements and Materials
● blow-dryer with attachments
Unit - 5
● wide-tooth comb
● styling cape
● styling lotion
● round brush
● neck strip
Preparation for all Hair Types

1. After shampooing, return the client to the seated position and comb out any tangles
in the hair. Remove excess moisture from the hair by blotting with a towel.
192
2. Place a clean neck strip on the client and drape with a cutting or styling cape.
Use of roll on brush-for volume
Blow-Drying for Different Hair Types aAnd Lengths

• Distribute styling product through the hair with your fingers, and comb through with
a wide-tooth comb.
Unit - 5
• Using the comb, mold the hair into the desired shape while still wet.
• For volume and lift, similar to that which you would get from a roller set, use a small
round brush. Apply a mousse or spray volumizer at the base. Section and part the
hair according to the size of the curl desired.
• Insert the round brush at the base of the curl. The degree of lift determines the type
of volume you will achieve. Using the techniques you have learned in roller setting,
dry each section either full base or half base. For maximum lift, insert the brush on
base and direct the hair section up at a 125-degree angle. Roll the hair down to the
193
base with medium tension. Direct the stream of air from the blow-dryer over the curl
in a back-and-fourth motion.
• When the section is completely dry, press the cooling button and cool down the
section to strengthen the curl formation.
• Release the brush by unwinding the section from the brush. (Pulling it out could
cause the hair to get tangled in the brush.) For less lift at the scalp, begin by holding
the section at a 90- or 70-degree angle, following the same procedure. Make sure
the scalp and hair are completely dry before combing out the style or the shape will
not last. Finish with hair spray.
To blow-dry blunt or long layered, straight to wavy hair into a smooth straight style.
• Attach the nozzle or concentrator attachment to the blow-dryer for more controlled
styling. Part and section the hair so that only the section you are drying is not in
clips. Apply a light gel.
• Using 1-inch subsections, start your first section at the nape of the neck and use a
classic styling brush to dry the hair straight and smooth. Place the brush under the
first section and hold the hair low.
• Work up to the crown, continuing to take 1-inch sections. On the longer sections
toward the top of the crown.
• Continue using the same technique to keep the shape flat and straight, continue
using low elevation.
• To direct the fringe away from the face, brush the fringe back and push the hair
slightly forward with the brush, creating a curved shaping, place the dryer on a slow
setting and pint the nozzle toward the brush. The fringe, when dry, will fall away
from the face and slightly to the side, for a soft look.
Unit - 5
Review Questions
a. What is medium length haircut?
b. Write various tools and materials required for medium length haircut?
c. Write down the tools used for blow-drying.
5.7 Hair Styling and Designing

Braiding styles can be broadly classified as visible and invisible. A visible braid is a
194
three-strand braid that employs the underhand technique, in which strands of hair are
woven under the center strand. An invisible braid or inverted braid. Also a three-strand
braid, is produced by overlapping the strands of hair on top of each other.
The following procedures will provide you with an overview of braiding styles commonly
done in the salon, starting with the most basic and moving on to more complex styles,
including braided extensions.
Invisible Braid
The invisible braid uses an overhand pick-up technique. It can be done on the scalp or
off the scalp, with or without extensions. This style is ideal for long hair, but can also
be executed successfully on hair that is layered. Layered hair must first be dampened
slightly and gelled, however, to hold shorter strands in place. Procedure 21 demonstrates
one braid down the back of the head.
Rope Braid
The rope braid is made with two strands that are twisted around each other. It can be
done on hair that is all one length as well as on long, layered hair. Remember to add to
both sides before you twist the right side over the left.
Fishtail Braid
The fishtail braid is a simple two-strand braid in which hair is picked up from the sides
and added to the strands as they are crossed over each other. It is best done on dry,
nonlayered hair that is at least shoulder length.
Procedure For Invisible Braid

Implements and Materials
Unit - 5
● Styling cape
● Rubber band or fabric-covered
● Tail comb
● Neck strip
Preparation
Shampoo and condition the client’s hair, then comb and blow-dry. It the client has
shampooed at home, brush the hair with a paddle brush.
195
Procedure
1. Take triangular section of hair. 2. Divide hair in three strands and switch
all strands on your left hand.
Unit - 5
3. Gather small section of hair from 4. Bring the strand you have just added
your right hand side of head and add to, over to the middle and bring the
to right strand. middle strand to the right.
196
5. Now switch hands keeping all strands 6. Gather a section of hair from the left
separate, so your left hand will be side of the head. Add this to the left
free. strand.
Unit - 5
7. You will now bring the left strand over 8. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until there is
to the middle and bring the middle no hair available to add. Finish style
section to the left. As you follow these fasten with rubber band.
steps, try to keep your hands close to
the head so braid will be tight.
197
Finished Hair Style (Invisible)
Rope Braid
Procedure
Unit - 5
1. Separate the ponytails into 3 strands. 2. Wind the strand in your right hand
Hold two strands in left hand and one around your index finger to the right.
in right hand. Then switch hands so that all 3 strands
are in your right hand, separated with
your fingers. Hold onto wound strand,
so it does not unravel.
198
3. Bring the wound strand over so it 4. Now your right hand can wind the
is now on the left. Then switch all 3 right strand again. Repeat steps 2
strands back to the left hand. and 3 to the end of the ponytail. Do
Not release or the rope will unravel!
Unit - 5
199
Procedure for Fishtail Braid
Procedure
1. Take a triangular section from the front. If the client has a fringe, begin behind the
fringe. Divide this section into two strands.
2. Cross the right strand over the left strand. Place both strands in the right hand.
3. Pick up a 1-inch section on the left side. Cross this section over the left strand and
add it to the right strand.
4. Put both stands in the one hand.
5. Pick up a 1-inch strand. Cross this over the right strand add to the left stand to
achieve “X” shape.
6. Repeat step 3 and put both strand in the right hand, moving your hand down toward
the nape with each new strand picked up. Secure the hair with rubber band.
Unit - 5
200
Exercise Questions
Theory Questions
Unit - 5
1. How can you avoid burning the client’s scalp during blow-drying?
2. Explain in detail of procedure of medium length cut.
3. Write down the procedure of conditioning.
4. List the materials and supplies used in shampooing and conditioning.
Practical Questions
1. Demonstrate the procedure of shampooing.
201
2. Demonstrate the procedure of application of head henna.

3. Demonstrate the procedure of using various styling lotions used in blow-dry
styling.
4. Demonstrate blow-drying on blunt cut
5. Demonstrate the medium length cut using 0 degrees elevation
Case study
Ms. Sarita is suffering from dry and split ends condition, what treatment would you
suggest for her?
Unit - 5
202
Unit - 6
Beauty and Wellness as a

Business Sector and Nail Art
203
Contents
• Overview
• Assessment Plan
6.1 Beauty and Wellness as a Business Sector
6.2 Nail Art

and Wellness.

• Beauty and Wellness as a Business Sector
• Nail Art
Resource Material
1. Beauty Therapy the foundation Level II, Lorraine Nordmann
2. Nail Technology and Retailing I – CBSE Publication
Unit - 6
204
Learning Outcomes
Unit Topic Outcomes
6.1 Beauty and Wellness as a • Introduction to Beauty and Wellness as a Business
Business Sector Sector
• Career options in Beauty and wellness industry in
India.
6.2 Nail Art • Creating design and samples according to client’s
requirements
• Use of various tools and cosmetics to create Nail
design.
• Knowledge of Nail tape application, Bullion beads,
pierced nail charm, confetti decoration and foil art.

Unit Topic Assessment Method Time Plan Remarks
6.1 Beauty and Wellness as Exercise: Question &
a Business Sector Answer
Audio Visual Aids
6.2 Nail Art Exercise: Question &
Answer
Audio Visual Aids
6.1 Beauty and Wellness as a Business Sector

Aims towards empowering the future citizens with knowledge of wellness enhancing
lifestyle and therapies with proven therapies and practices from all over the world
including ancient Indian wellness wisdom. The education of wellness is more appropriate
through vocational stream, as the subject is more of ‘Doing’ than ‘knowing’. The subject
will work towards skilling the youth and make then employable, contributing significantly
to the nation’s economic development and progress.
• Indian beauty and wellness industry accounts for INR 1500 Crores.
• Fastest growing industry with around 30% growth rate, least effected by
Unit - 6
recession.
• Approximately 4000 Spas and salons in India alone, requiring around 20,000
therapists each year for coming few years.
205
• Receptionists, therapists, trainers, managers, manufacturers of equipment and

products.
• Qualities required – Hard working, good communication skills, positivity and
compassion.
Benefits of a Vocational Career in Beauty and Wellness sector

• Skills based Vocation
• Employability
• Decent starting salaries and perks
• Fast Growth and Development
• Well paying, respectable jobs
• Entrepreneurship relatively easy
• Skills are mobile
• Huge demand predicted for foreseeable future
Career Options-Beauty and wellness sector

• Cosmetologist
• Aroma therapist
• Nail Artist
• Make up Artist
• Beauty Therapist
• Beauty Technologist
• Hair Stylists
• Estheticians
• Hair Dressers
• Perm Specialists
• Spa Therapist
Unit - 6
• Hair Designer
• Hair Colorist
• Beauty advise
206
• Counselors
• Free lancers
• Manicurist
• Pedicurist
6.2 Nail Art
Layered Nail Art

By layering the polish colours it is possible to create beautiful designs, such as stripes,
V shapes and multi coloured swirls. By layering the different colours while making a
different line of design on each layer you create layered polish designs.
Unit - 6
Procedure for layered polish design

You will need several colours of polish that complement each other, an orangewood
stick and polish remover.
• Prepare the nails by sanitizing the nail beds.
207
• Apply a base coat and let dry.

• Apply one coat of coloured polish as the base colour.
• Apply second coat of base colour, making it thinner at the free edge and let it dry
thoroughly to prevent smudging.
• After the base layers are dry, use a second colour to paint the end of the nail at
an angle leaving a space so that the base colour is still visible. Stop here or layer
several more times using another colour or switching between the two, always
making sure that the polish is thinner at the free edge.
Rhinestone application
Nails can be elegantly enhanced with rhinestones of various colours. The rhinestones
are placed on the nail into wet polish. When the polish dries the rhinestone will be stuck
to the nail. You can use the rhinestones on other methods of nail art to create intriguing
designs.
Procedure for rhinestone application

You will need clear polish, an orangewood stick and nail rhinestones.
• Polish the nails in the regular manner up to and including the second layer of colour.
• Determine where you want to place the rhinestones.
• Apply a small amount of clear polish to the end of an orangewood stick.
Unit - 6
• Touch the wet end of the stick to the top of the rhinestone.
• Press the rhinestone into the wet polish in the chosen position and repeat the
process until all gems have been placed on the nails. You may use tweezers to
apply the gems if you prefer.
208
Finish with a coat of topcoat to seal the design. Do not apply it too quickly or air bubbles
may appear.
Nail tape application

Nails can be decorated with nail tape, which is available in different colours and thickness.
Gold and silver are the most popular. The tape can be used alone or as part of another
design.
Unit - 6
Procedure for nail tape application

You will need self-adhesive nail tape, clear polish and sharp nippers or small sharp
scissors.
209

• Polish the nails in the regular manner. If applying nail tape over another design, the
design must be dry.
• Hold the end of the tape in one hand and hold the roll of tape, sticky side down,
in the other. Be careful not to touch the back of the tape or it will not be sticky
enough.
• Place the tape on the nail in the desired position and cut the tape off at the end of
the roll, leaving the ends long until the pattern is complete.
• Use an orangewood stick to press the tape firmly in place. Place a small drop of
clear polish under the ends if they stick up, let dry a little and then press again.
• Be sure that there are no air bubbles under the tape and that the ends are well
pressed down. To avoid air bubbles, do not apply the topcoat too quickly.
• Continue to apply the tape in this manner until the design is complete.
• Trim all the tape ends with nippers or scissors.
• Apply clear polish over the top to seal your work, making sure that the ends of the
tape have also been covered.
• Allow to dry and check that tape ends are safe and secure. If they are not, apply
another coat of clear to secure them.
Bullion beads
Bullion beads are used to create or enhance nail designs. The beads are available in
many colours but the gold and silver are the most popular.
Unit - 6
210
Procedure for bullion beads

You will need bullion beads in desired colours, clear polish and an orangewood stick.
• Polish the nails with the chosen colour in the regular manner and allow to dry. Let
the base dry completely before starting the design.
• Apply clear polish on the nail in the area where the beads are to be placed.
• Dip the wet nail surface into the beads so that they stick into the wet clear polish.
Arrange the edges of the design with the orangewood stick. If covering a small area,
apply the beads the same way the gemstones are applied with an orangewood
stick.
• If using two different coloured sets of beads, repeat the process with the second
colour. Continue the coating and dipping process until the design is complete.
• Cover the design with two coats of clear polish to seal the beads.
Pierced nail charm

Pierced charms come in many designs and can be plain or made of real gold or plated
gold and be embedded with diamonds and other jewels. To attach a nail charm, a hole is
drilled through the free edge of the nail with a tiny hand drill, then a gold charm is screwed
in and bolted at the back. Charms can be applied to the natural nail but an artificial nail
is much stronger. It is advisable to artificially coat the nail wearing the charm.
You will need clear polish, a nail charm, a hand drill for the piercing and tweezers.
Unit - 6
211
Procedure for pierced nail charm

• Prepare the hand drill by following the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Either paint the nail and let it dry, or drill the hole and then paint the nail. Whichever
way is chosen, the charm is applied after polish is dry.
• Choose a location for the charm that will not weaken the nail or cause it to break.
It must go on the free edge of the nail, not too close to the edge as the weight may
weaken the nail, and not too close to the nail bed as it will be too difficult to put the
bolt on the back.
• Support the free edge by placing the finger firmly on the table- upside down is
recommended as there is more support for the finger. Place the drill bit on the nail
where you want the hole drilled.
• Twist the drill clockwise while pressing down. Keep twisting and pressing till the drill
bit makes the hole. Drill the hole straight or the charm will not lie flat.
• Dust the area and use the wrench end of the drill to remove the bolt from the back
of the charm.
• Hold the charm with tweezers and place it into the hole and position it.
• Using the wrench end of the drill, screw the bolt onto the back of the charm. Do not
over tighten. Apply clear polish on the back of the bolt to keep it from turning.
• Check that the charm is positioned correctly. Clear polish can then be applied over
the top of the charm to keep it from catching hair or snagging clothes.
• Trim off the back of the screw if it is sticking out unnecessarily.
Confetti decoration
Confetti is made from tiny strips of foil that are available in many colours. It can be used
alone or with other forms of nail art.
Unit - 6
212
Procedure for confetti decoration

You will need confetti, clear polish, and an orangewood stick or tweezers.
• Polish nails in the regular manner and let polish dry completely.
• Apply clear polish in the position where you want the confetti to be applied.
• Brush a small amount of clear polish onto the end of an orangewood stick and
touch the confetti lightly to pick some up. Tweezers may also be used.
• Apply the confetti onto the clear polish on the nail. It can be clustered or applied
piece by piece to create or finish a design.
• Clean the ends of the orangewood stick with polish remover and then use the flat
side of the stick and press the confetti gently down on the nail. Make sure you
press all the confetti onto the nail so that it is flat.
• Cover with clear polish slowly to avoid bubbles. Let dry and apply a second coat of
clear to thoroughly seal the design.
Foil Art
Every foil art design comes out differently. To make any two nails exactly the same is
impossible but they can be kept similar by using the same method on each nail. The foil
is supplied on thin cellophane backing. Special emulsion glue is painted on the area of
the nail where you want the foil to be applied. After the glue is dry, the foil is pressed onto
the nail and the cellophane backing is peeled away.
Procedure for foil art

Unit - 6
You will need foil in desired colour or colours, emulsion glue, small scissors and an
orangewood stick.
213
• Polish nails in the regular manner and let polish dry completely. The foil will not
work if the polish is not dry.
• Apply the emulsion glue to the area of the nail where the foil is to be applied.
• Let glue dry just until it turns clear and then gently press a cut a piece of foil onto
the glue.
• Gently pull the edge of the foil away from the nail so that the colour adheres to the
glue and the clear cellophane backing is removed.
• If another colour is required, press it over the same area to blend the colours. The
foil will stick to the glue where the first colour did not.
• To make fancy designs, more emulsion can be added to different areas of the nail
and other colours added separately.
• Cover the design with clear polish to seal and protect.
Exercise Question
Theory Questions
a) List the supplies required for confetti decoration.
b) List 04 nail art techniques.
c) What is Nail Art? Explain the procedure of Pierced nail charm in detail
d) Why is it necessary for a client to return to the Nail Technician? When they want to
remove their nail charm.
Practical Questions
a) Demonstrate the foil art on client
b) Demonstrate the tape art on client
c) Demonstrate the confetti art on client
d) Demonstrate the bullion art on client
e) Demonstrate theRhinestone art on client
Unit - 6
f) Demonstrate the Pierced nail charm on client
214

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Beauty & Wellness

Central Board of Secondary Education

First Edition : 2014

No Part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or

Published by : The Secretary, Central Board of Secondary Education,

51 d- ewy dÙkZO; & Hkkjr ds izR;sd ukxfjd dk ;g dÙkZO; gksxk fd og &

The constitution of India

B eauty culture is a demanding field, requiring artistic, technical, and

Editing & Coordination

Material Customization Group

1. Unit 1 : Body Care and Wellness..................................................... 1

2. Unit 2 : Hand Care............................................................................. 71

3. Unit 3 : Foot Care.............................................................................. 99

4. Unit 2 : Face and Beauty.................................................................. 119

5. Unit 5 : Hair Care............................................................................... 161

6. Unit 6 : Beauty and Wellness as a Business Sector and

Unit Overview & Description

Unit Overview & Description

Knowledge and Skill Outcomes

4. Beauty Therapy Fact File – Susan Cressy

Assessment Plan (for the Teachers)

1.1 Health Exercise: Question & Answer

1.3 Suksham Vyamyam Practical, Demonstration and practice Visit to Yoga

2) What is the definition of Food?

1.1.2 Classification of Food

S.No. Nutrients Sources Functions Deficiency/ Toxicity

1 Carbohydrates Cereals, pulses, 1) Primary energy Low blood Breathlessness,

There are two classes of Vitamins

A. Water Soluble Vitamins (not stored in the body)

Vitamin B2 Liver, Milk, 1. Helps with the 1. Cracks 1. Excess b2

Vitamin B 12 Liver, Kidney, 1. Essential For 1. Pernicious 1. Mild

Cheese, Pork, Anemia 2. Nerve 2. Swelling of

Vitamin B Green Leafy 1. Beneficial In 1. Anemia 1. Nausea

Vitamin C Citrus Fruits, 1. Vital for 1. Scurvy 1. Bloatedness

B. Fat Soluble Vitamins (Stored in body)

Vitamin D Exposure 1. Acts As 1. Osteoporosis 1. Severe

Vitamin K Green Leafy 1. Essential 1. Prolonged Increases Risk

quinone) Lettuce, Production of 2. Excess Nose Heart Diseases

Calcium Milk and Milk 1. Builds and 1. Rickets in 1. Nausea,

Sodium Table Salt, 1. Maintaining 1. Low blood 1. Fluid retention

Potassium Raisins, 1. Helps in 1. Muscle 1. Difficulty in

Iron Meat, Fish, 1. Transports 1. Anaemia 1. Pain in chest,

Iodine Iodized salt, 1. Helps in 1. Weight gain 1. Thyroid cancer

Products of thyroid 3. Dry flaky skin disorder

Phosphorous Cheddar 1. Forms and 1. Osteoporosis 1. Decreases

Adolescent: Nutritional Guidelines

A day’s sample diet plan for a 14 year old boy

Recommended Dietary Allowances

Food Exchange Plan

Food Groups No. of Energy Protein Carbohydrate (g) Fat (g)

Distribution of Exchanges & Menu Plan

A day’s sample diet plan for a 14 year old girl

Recommended Dietary Allowances

Food Exchange Plan

Food No. of Energy Protein (g) Carbohydrate Fat (g)

Cereal 14 980 28 168 -

Distribution of Exchanges & Menu Plan

Meal Exchanges No. Menu

Mid Morning Cereal 2 Spinach paranthas

Lunch Milk 0.4 Kadhi