Vinyl

Siding
Installation
Manual

Updated October 2004

This guide is published by the Vinyl Siding Institute, Inc. (VSI) as a service to
the industry. VSI members are manufacturers of vinyl siding and suppliers to
the vinyl siding industry. The information provided in this publication is offered
in good faith and believed to be reliable, but is made without warranty, express
or implied, as to merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose, or any other
matter. VSI does not endorse the proprietary products or processes of any
manufacturer.

This publication is not intended to provide specific advice, legal or otherwise, on

particular products or processes. Readers should consult with their own legal
and technical advisors, vinyl siding suppliers, and other appropriate sources
(including but not limited to product or package labels, technical bulletins, or
sales literature) that contain information about known and reasonably foresee-
able health and safety risks of their proprietary products and processes. VSI, its
members, and contributors do not assume any responsibility for the users' com-
pliance with applicable laws and regulations, nor for any persons relying on the
information contained in this guide.

Information about individual manufacturers' products contained herein has been

provided by those manufacturers, who are solely responsible for the accuracy
and completeness of the data.

Use of Manufacturers’ Instructions

Some specialized products may require unique installation instructions.
Please contact the manufacturer directly for information about installing
those products.

For general information about vinyl siding, contact the Vinyl Siding Institute at:

National Housing Center

1201 15th Street NW, Suite 220
Washington, DC 20005
Web site: <www.vinylsiding.org>

Abridged versions of this manual are available in Spanish, Korean, French, and
Polish.

Copyright © (2004) The Vinyl Siding Institute, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or
used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping,
or information storage and retrieval systems—without the written permission of the copyright owner.
 CONTENTS
Foreword ....................................................................................................................................1
Important Notes ..........................................................................................................................2
Weather Resistant Barrier ......................................................................................................2
Fire Safety Information ..........................................................................................................2
Storage and Transportation....................................................................................................3
Historic Restoration ................................................................................................................3
Basic Installation Rules ..........................................................................................................4
Cleanup ..................................................................................................................................5
Disposal..................................................................................................................................5

Terms to Know............................................................................................................................6
Materials, Tools, and Accessories ............................................................................................8
Panel Profiles ........................................................................................................................8
Basic Installation Tools and Equipment..................................................................................8
Special Tools ..........................................................................................................................9
Accessories ............................................................................................................................9

Getting Started ........................................................................................................................10

Materials ..............................................................................................................................10
How to Measure ..................................................................................................................10
Estimating Required Materials ......................................................................................10
Estimating Worksheet ....................................................................................................12
Fastener Choices ................................................................................................................13
Fastening Procedure ............................................................................................................14
Cutting the Siding ................................................................................................................15
Preparing the Walls ..............................................................................................................16
New Construction ..........................................................................................................16
Residing ..........................................................................................................................16

Installing Accessories ............................................................................................................17

Starter Strip ..........................................................................................................................17
Outside and Inside Corner Posts ........................................................................................18
Windows, Doors, and Roof Lines ........................................................................................19
Gable and Trim ....................................................................................................................22

Horizontal Siding Installation..................................................................................................23

Installing Panels ..................................................................................................................23
Fitting Siding Around Fixtures ..............................................................................................24
Fitting Under Windows ........................................................................................................24
 CONTENTS (CONT.)
Sidewall Flashing at Roof Lines............................................................................................25
Finishing at the Top ..............................................................................................................26
Transition from Horizontal to Vertical ....................................................................................27
Transition from Brick to Vinyl Siding ....................................................................................27

Vertical Siding and Accessories Installation..........................................................................28

Preparation............................................................................................................................28
Accessories ..........................................................................................................................28
Installing Outside and Inside Corner Posts ....................................................................28
Bottom Receiver ..............................................................................................................29
Window, Door, and Roof Trim ........................................................................................29
Sidewalls ..............................................................................................................................30
Starter Strip ....................................................................................................................30
Panels..............................................................................................................................31
Windows and Doors ........................................................................................................31
Corners ............................................................................................................................31
Gable Ends......................................................................................................................32

Soffit Installation ......................................................................................................................33

Preparation............................................................................................................................33
Installation Over Open Eaves ..............................................................................................34
Installation Over Enclosed Eaves ........................................................................................36
Porch Ceilings ......................................................................................................................37
New Construction Projects ..............................................................................................37
Residing Projects ............................................................................................................38

Other Recommendations..........................................................................................................38
Attaching Shutters ................................................................................................................38
Replacing a Damaged Panel ................................................................................................39
Residing Over Asbestos Siding ............................................................................................39
Capping a Corner Post ........................................................................................................39
Repairing a Damaged Corner Post ......................................................................................39
FOREWORD
Known for its outstanding performance qualities, vinyl siding is increasingly the
material of choice for homeowners, remodeling contractors, architects, and
builders. Compared to other siding products, vinyl is attractive, durable, easy to
maintain, and cost-effective. Siding is available in a variety of architectural styles,
eye-catching colors, design-enhancing profiles, finishes, and textures.

For best results, it is recommended that vinyl siding meet the requirements of the
American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)
D3679–Standard Specification for Rigid Poly(VinylChloride)
(PVC) Siding. As a service to the industry, the Vinyl Siding
Institute (VSI) sponsors a program that allows manufactur-
ers to certify, with independent, third-party verification, that
their siding meets or exceeds this specification. For a list-
ing of certified products, see VSI’s Web site at www.vinyl-
siding.org. In addition, look for the certification label on
boxes of siding (Fig. 1). Figure 1.

This manual sets forth the basic guidelines for vinyl siding installation. The instruc-
tions herein are based, in part, on ASTM D4756, Standard Practice for Installation
of Rigid Poly(VinylChloride) (PVC) Siding and Soffit, the standard method for
installation of vinyl siding and soffit. Updated information has been added as nec-
essary. Additionally, it is recommended that installers review local building
codes and manufacturers’ literature for variations that may apply to specific
products or geographic areas.

The method of applying vinyl siding and soffit is essentially the same for new con-
struction and residing. However, where required, special instructions for new con-
struction and residing are included, as well as recommendations for historic
restoration. In all applications, care should be exercised to properly prepare the
structure. See the “Basic Installation Rules” and additional details throughout this
document for proper installation techniques.

NOTE: Vinyl siding installers with at least one year of

experience can become a VSI Certified Installer, if they
successfully complete a course and pass a written
examination. Certified Installers receive an identifica -
tion badge and are listed on VSI’s Web site. For more
information on the VSI Certified Installer Program,
visit www.vinylsiding.org.

1
IMPORTANT NOTES
Weather Resistant Barrier
Vinyl siding has always been designed as an exterior cladding, not a weather resistant barrier.
Vinyl siding is designed to allow the material underneath it to breathe; therefore, it is not a
watertight covering. Because of its design and application, it provides a supplemental rain screen
that enhances the weather resistant barrier system by reducing the amount of water that reaches the
underlying weather resistant barrier.

What Is a Weather Resistant Barrier System? It is a system that includes water shedding materials
and water diversion materials. Weather resistant barrier systems commonly consist of a combination
of exterior cladding, flashed wall openings and penetrations, weather resistant barrier material, and
sheathing. Effective weather resistant barrier systems will shed the water initially, control moisture flow
by capillary and diffusion action, and minimize absorption into the wall structure. The level of weather
resistance required is determined by the applicable building code and structure.

Best Practice: To achieve designed performance, vinyl siding must be installed over a weather resis-
tant barrier system that includes 1) a continuous weather resistant material and 2) properly integrated
flashing around all penetrations and where vinyl siding interfaces with other building products such as
brick, stone, or stucco. Refer to the manufacturer’s installation manual for specific product applications
and recommendations. Whichever product(s) you decide to use as part of a weather resistant barrier
system, be certain the materials meet the applicable code by contacting the manufacturer of the
weather resistant barrier material(s). Always consult the applicable building code for minimum weather
barrier requirements in your area. Keep in mind that additional measures may provide better protec-
tion against water intrusion than the minimum requirements of the building code.

Fire Safety Information

Exterior vinyl building materials require little maintenance for many years. Nevertheless, common
sense dictates that builders and suppliers of vinyl products store, handle, and install vinyl materials in
a manner that avoids damage to the product and/or the structure. Owners and installers should take a
few simple steps to protect vinyl building materials from fire.

To Home and Building Owners: Rigid vinyl siding is made from organic materials and will melt or
burn when exposed to a significant source of flame or heat. Building owners, occupants, and outside
maintenance personnel should always take normal precautions to keep sources of fire, such as grills,
and combustible materials, such as dry leaves, mulch, and trash, away from vinyl siding.

To the Building Trades, Specifiers, Professionals, and to Do-It-Yourself Installers: When rigid vinyl
siding is exposed to significant heat or flame, the vinyl will soften, sag, melt, or burn, and may thereby
expose material underneath. Care must be exercised when selecting underlayment materials because
many underlayment materials are made from organic materials that are combustible. It is important to
ascertain the fire properties of underlayment materials prior to installation. All building materials should
be installed in accordance with local, state, and federal building code and fire regulations.

2
Storage and Transportation
When transporting vinyl siding to a job site, make certain to keep the cartons flat and supported along
their entire length. At the job site, take the following precautions when storing panels:

■ Store the cartons on a flat surface and support the entire length of the cartons.

■ Keep the cartons dry.

■ Store the cartons away from areas where falling objects or other construction activity may
cause damage.

■ Do not store the cartons in stacks more than 12 boxes high.

■ Do not store the cartons in any location where temperatures may exceed 130° F (e.g., on
blacktop pavement during unusually hot weather or under dark tarps or plastic wraps without
air circulation).

Historic Restoration
When using vinyl siding for historic restoration, VSI recommends the following:

■ If a building is in a historic area, local Historic District, or has been designated as a historic
building, make sure that approval for the use of vinyl siding has been obtained from the
local historic society or local Historic District Commission. This applies to building additions
as well.

■ Before a historic building is resided, it should be examined for moisture, insect infestation,
structural defects, and other problems that may be present. These problems should be
addressed and the building pronounced “healthy” before residing with any material.

■ Do not damage or remove the original siding. If at all possible, do not alter the original
structure, so that the application of vinyl siding is reversible (i.e., the original siding would
remain intact in the future, so that if desired, the vinyl siding could be removed). Exception:
“In cases where a nonhistoric artificial siding has been applied to the building, the removal
of such a siding before application of vinyl siding would, in most cases, be acceptable.”
(Preservation Briefs, Number 8, U.S. Department of Interior, 1984.)1

■ Exercise every care to retain architectural details wherever possible. Do not remove, cover,
or add details until the building owners’ written approval has been obtained. Determine that
the owner has consulted the local historic society for approval.

■ Use siding that closely approximates the appearance of the original siding in color, size,
and style. In historic districts, the goal is to match the product as closely as possible and
retain the original trim.
1
Preservation Briefs, Number 8, can be ordered by contacting the Superintendent of Documents at 202 512-1800. Or, the brief can
be viewed via the Heritage Preservation Web site at www2.cr.nps.gov/. GPO stock number: 024-005-01026-2

3
BASIC INSTALLATION RULES
Before getting started, it is important to review several rules of thumb for
vinyl siding application. The following rules, which come up throughout this
guide, are critical for proper vinyl siding installation:

1. Installed panels must move freely from side to side.

2. When installing a siding panel, push up from the bottom until the lock is
fully engaged with the piece below it. Without stretching the panel,
reach up and fasten it into place.

3. Fasten nails or other fasteners in the center of the nailing slot.

4. Do not force the panels up or down when fastening in position.

5. Do not drive the head of the fastener tightly against the siding nail hem.
Allow 1/32" (about the thickness of a dime) clearance between the fas-
tener head and the siding panel. Drive fasteners straight and level to
prevent distortion and buckling of the panel.

6. Leave a minimum of 1/4" clearance at all openings and stops to allow

for normal expansion and contraction. When installing in temperatures
below 40° F, increase minimum clearance to 3/8".

7. Do not caulk the panels where they meet the receiver of inside corners,
outside corners, or J-trim. Do not caulk the overlap joints.

8. Do not face-nail or staple through siding. Vinyl siding expands and con-
tracts with outside temperature changes. Face-nailing can result in rip-
ples in the siding.

9. In residing, furring or removal of uneven original siding may be

necessary.

10.In new construction, avoid the use of green lumber as the underlay-
ment. Keep in mind that siding can only be as straight and stable as
what lies under it.

11. The installation of specific products may differ in details from the
instructions given in this manual. Always follow the manufacturer's
instructions, using parts specified by the manufacturer, to ensure proper
installation.

4
Cleanup
The beauty of vinyl siding is maintained with little effort. Although vinyl siding will get dirty, like any-
thing exposed to the atmosphere, a heavy rain will do wonders in cleaning it. Or, it's possible to wash
it down with an ordinary garden hose. If neither rain nor hosing does a satisfactory job, follow these
simple instructions:

1. Use an ordinary, long-handled car washing brush. This brush has soft bristles, and the handle fastens
onto the end of the hose. It allows the siding to be washed just like a car. Avoid using stiff bristle
brushes or abrasive cleaners, which may change the gloss of the cleaned area and cause the siding
to look splotchy.

2. To remove soot and grime found in industrial areas, wipe down the siding with a solution made up
of the following:

■ 1/3 cup powdered detergent (e.g., Fab®, Tide®, or equivalent powder detergent)*

■ 2/3 cup powdered household cleaner (e.g., Soilax®, Spic & Span®, or equivalent)*

■ 1 gallon water

3. If mildew is a problem, use the solution previously mentioned, but add 1 quart liquid laundry
bleach.

4. When washing down your entire house, start at the bottom and work up to the top in order to pre-
vent streaking.

5. For stubborn stains, use the following chart:

Follow the precautionary labeling

STAIN CLEANERS*
instructions on the cleaning agent
Bubble Gum Fantastik®, Murphy’s Oil Soap®, or solution of container. Protect shrubs from
vinegar (30 percent) and water (70 percent)
direct contact with cleaning
Crayon Lestoil®
agents.
DAP (Oil-based caulk) Fantastik®
Felt-tip Pen Fantastik® or water-based cleaners
Grass Fantastik®, Lysol®, Murphy’s Oil Soap®, or Windex®
Disposal
Lipstick Fantastik® or Murphy’s Oil Soap® Dispose of all scrap or excess
Lithium Grease Fantastik®, Lestoil®, Murphy’s Oil Soap®, or Windex® trim in a manner that is consis-
Mold and Mildew Fantastik® or solution of vinegar (30 percent) and tent with local and state rules
water (70 percent)
and regulations. For information
Motor Oil Fantastik®, Lysol®, Murphy’s Oil Soap®, or Windex®
on recycling leftover vinyl siding
Oil Soft Scrub®
scrap, order a how-to guide from
Paint Brillo® Pad or Soft Scrub®
the American Plastics Council,
Pencil Soft Scrub®
at 1-800-243-5790.
Rust Fantastik®, Murphy’s Oil Soap®, or Windex®
Tar Soft Scrub®
Top Soil Fantastik®, Lestoil®, or Murphy’s Oil Soap®

*Cleaning materials are listed in alphabetical order.

VSI does not endorse proprietary products or processes and makes no warranties for the products
referenced herein. Reference to proprietary names is for illustrative purposes only and is not
intended to imply that there are not equally effective alternatives.

5
TERMS TO KNOW
Backerboard—a flat material used on the face of the house, applied between the studs and the
siding (or over existing wall surface), to provide an even surface for installing vinyl siding.

Buttlock—the bottom edge of a siding or soffit panel, or accessory piece, opposite the nailing
slots, which locks onto to the preceding panel.

Channel—the area of the accessory trim or corner post where siding or soffit panels are inserted.
Channels also refer to the trim itself, and are named for the letters of the alphabet they resemble
(e.g., J-channel or J-trim, F-channel, etc.).

Course—a row of panels, one panel wide, running the length of the house from one side to the other,
or, in the case of vertical siding, from top to bottom.

Drip Cap/Head Flashing—an accessory installed with vertical siding to ensure that water drips away
from panels and does not infiltrate them.

Double Channel Lineal—a siding accessory that joins two soffit panels.

Face—refers to the side of a siding or soffit panel that is showing once the panel has been
installed.

Face-nailing—the action of fastening directly onto the “face” side of a panel (instead of using the
nail hem slot). This practice is generally not used in siding installation.

Fascia—the trim covering the ends of roof rafters. Fascia Board—a board attached to the ends of
the rafters between the roofing material and the soffit overhang. Fascia Cap or Cover—the cover-
ing around a fascia board.

Figure 2. J-trim
Dormer Soffit
Rake
Gable Window
head
flashing
Vertical
siding
Fascia

Outside
corner
Utility post Inside
Ea ve Window
trim and door corner Starter
Horizontal post strip
siding trim

6
Flashing—a thin, flat material, usually aluminum, positioned under or behind J-channels, corner posts, windows,
etc., to keep draining water from penetrating the home.

Furring/Furring Strip—usually a wood 1" x 2" strip used to even a surface in preparation for installing vinyl sid-
ing. To “fur” a surface means to apply these strips.

Lap—to overlap the ends of two siding panels or accessory pieces to allow for expansion and contraction of the
vinyl product.

Lug/Crimp—the raised “ears” or tabs on a siding panel, created by a snap lock punch, which can be used to lock
a siding panel into place when the nailing hem has been removed.

Miter—to make a diagonal cut, beveled to a specific angle (usually 45°). Sometimes miter cuts are made into an
overlapping siding or soffit panel surface, to provide a neater appearance.

Nailing Hem (or Flange)—the section of siding or accessories where the nailing slots are located.

Nail Hole Slot Punch—refer to page 9 for illustration and use.

Plumb—a position or measurement that is truly and exactly

vertical, 90° from a level surface.

Rake (roof)—the inclined, usually projecting edge of a sloping

roof. Rake (wall)—the board or molding placed along the slop-
ing sides of a gable to cover the ends of the siding.

Scoring—running a utility knife blade, a sharpened awl,

scoring tool, or other sharp implement across a soffit or sid-
ing panel face without cutting all the way through the panel.
This weakens the vinyl surface in a specific area and allows
the panel to be bent and broken off cleanly.

Sealant—any of a variety of compounds used to fill or seal

joints in wood, metal, masonry, vinyl, and other materials.

Shim—a building material used to even a surface prior to

installing vinyl siding. Figure 3.
Snap Lock Tool—refer to page 9 for illustration and use.

Soffit—material used to enclose the horizontal underside of an eave, cornice, or overhang. Soffit is designed to
be installed lengthwise from wall to fascia.

Starter Strip—an accessory applied directly to the surface of the building and used to secure the first course of sid-
ing to the home.

Underlayment—weather resistant material placed under vinyl siding panels.

Utility Trim—a piece of trim used any time the top lock has been removed from the siding, to secure a siding
panel. Also referred to as “undersill” or “finish” trim.

Weep Holes—openings cut into siding or accessories to allow for water runoff.

Zip Lock Tool—also known as an unlocking tool; refer to page 9 for illustration and use.

7
MATERIALS, TOOLS, AND ACCESSORIES
Panel Profiles
Vinyl siding comes in a variety of shapes, tex-
tures, and colors, creating a wide array of looks
for different houses. It is manufactured primarily
with durable polyvinyl chloride in several different
profiles, including single, double, triple, vertical,
and Dutch lap (Fig. 4).

There are also various types of vinyl soffit (the

material used to enclose the underside of an
eave or overhang). Soffit can be vented, solid, or Figure 4.
a combination of the two (Fig. 5) and is designed
to maximize airflow, preventing moisture accu-
mulation and heat buildup between the siding
and the house.

Basic Installation Tools and

Equipment
Common hand tools, such as a hammer, fine- Figure 5.
tooth saw, square, chalkline, level, and tape
measure, are needed for proper installation (Fig. 6). Safety
glasses are recommended for eye protection. Other basic
tools include:

Power Saw
A bench or radial-arm power saw can speed the cutting of the
siding. A fine-tooth blade (12 to 16 teeth per inch) should be
used with the blade installed in the reverse direction. Some
applicators prefer a hand-held power saw. In extremely cold
weather, move the saw through the material slowly to prevent Figure 6.
chipping or cracking (Fig. 7).

NOTE: A saw blade set up in reverse

direction should be used only for cutting
vinyl. DO NOT attempt to use it on other
materials such as wood, plywood, etc.

Figure 7.
8
Utility Knife Utility knife
Vinyl is easy to cut, trim, and score with a utility knife or scoring tool Tin snips
(Fig. 8).

Tin Snips
Good quality tin snips or compound aviation-type snips will speed the cut-
ting and shaping of the vinyl (Fig. 8).
Figure 8.
Special Tools
Snap lock punch
Snap Lock Punch
A snap lock punch is used to punch lugs in the cut edges of siding to be
used for the top or finishing course at the top of a wall, or underneath
a window (Fig. 9). Nail hole slot punch

Nail Hole Slot Punch

Occasionally, it may be necessary to elongate a nail hem slot. The hole is
elongated to allow for expansion and contraction (Fig. 9).
Unlocking tool
Unlocking Tool (Zip Lock Tool)
Remove or replace a siding panel with the unlocking tool. Insert the curved end
of the tool under the end of the panel and hook onto the back lip of the buttlock. Figure 9.
To disengage the lock, pull down and slide the tool along the length of the
panel. Use the same procedure to relock a panel (Fig. 9).
Starter Molding
Utility trim strip
Accessories
Outside and Inside Corner Posts
Corner posts are used to provide a finished edge at an inside or
outside corner. The siding from adjoining walls fits neatly into
the inside or outside corner post channels. Appropriate widths of
channel openings are available to accommodate various config-
urations of siding. J-channel F-channel

Trim and Molding

Drip cap/
A complete line of accessories is used to give every installa- flashing
tion a professional appearance, while providing a weather
resistant facade. Some accessories include trim, starter
strips, molding, F-channels, drip caps, and J-channels
(Fig. 10). Each of these accessories will be addressed in Figure 10.
more detail throughout this manual.

NOTE: Vinyl siding manufacturers produce various sizes of J-channels and

corner posts. Remember to order accessories of the proper size to match
the siding panels. Consult the manufacturer for the appropriate size.

9
GETTING STARTED
Materials
Sheathing/Backerboard
Vinyl siding should be applied over a sheathing that provides a smooth, flat surface. Consult local
building codes for sheathing requirements. Vinyl siding should never be applied directly to studs with-
out sheathing. As an alternative, installation of specific types of contoured foam underlayments for
various styles of vinyl siding are available. Some manufacturers of vinyl siding do not recommend the
use of drop-in backers with certain vinyl siding configurations.

Weather Resistant Barrier

Vinyl siding should be installed over a continuous weather resistant barrier to stop the intrusion of
incidental water. Refer to page 2 for more information on weather resistant barriers. See your local
building code official for requirements in your area.

Flashing
Code-compliant flashing should be integrated with the weather resistant barrier and applied around
windows, doors, and other openings. Flashing should also be applied to inside and outside corners,
and the intersection of walls and roofing to prevent water infiltration.

How to Measure
Estimating Required Materials
■ All houses can be broken down into shapes of rectangles or triangles, or a combination
of both.

■ The area to be sided can be determined by measuring the height and width of the
house, including windows (Fig. 11).
Height____feet x width____feet =
■ Total all of the measurements for the areas to be ____square feet
sided. Windows and doors are not usually deduct-
ed. Including them will provide an allowance
factor for waste. If the windows and doors are
extremely large (such as a garage or sliding
glass doors), some deductions can be made
(Fig. 12-14).

■ To estimate the amount of starter strip required,

measure the linear feet around the entire base of
height
the house.
width
■ Add a factor of 10 percent to all material esti-
mates to allow for waste.

Figure 11. Wall Areas

10
½ height x width = ____ area of gable (square feet) ½ (A + B) x C + ½ B x D = ____ total area of gable
(square feet)

D
height
C
B
width

Figure 12. Gable areas Figure 13. Gambrel roof house

½ height x width = ____ area of dormer (square feet)

width

height

Figure 14. Dormer areas

11
Estimating Worksheet
Use the following worksheet to estimate the required materials*:

Siding Walls ______square feet

Gable ends ______square feet
Dormer sides ______square feet
Upper gambrel walls ______square feet
Total wall surface area ______square feet (A)

Large areas not to be covered:

(garage doors/sliding doors) ______square feet
x 0.50 =
Uncovered area ______square feet (B)
Subtract B from A for

Total net surface area ______square feet

Soffit ______square feet

Porch Ceiling ______square feet

Lattice ______linear feet

Accessories Starter strip ______linear feet

Utility trim ______linear feet

Receiving channel J-channel ______linear feet

Designer J-channel ______linear feet
Flexible J-channel ______linear feet
F-channel ______linear feet
3 1/2" /5" lineals ______linear feet
Dual undersill trim ______linear feet

Outside corners Outside corner post ______linear feet

Designer corner trim ______linear feet
Restoration corners ______linear feet

Inside corners Inside corner post ______linear feet

J-channel ______linear feet

Other Soffit cove trim ______linear feet

Soffit double channel lineal ______linear feet
U-channel (for lattice) ______linear feet
Light blocks ______
Width of accessory recess opening:
(circle one) 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" 1 1/4"

Nails Pounds required

Length (1 1/2" minimum) ______

Tools needed __ hammer __ tin snips __ tape measure

__ chalkline __ utility knife __ level
__ square __ hacksaw __ power saw
__ nail hole slot punch __ snap lock punch
__ unlocking tool __ fine-tooth saw blade

* Add a factor of 10 percent to all material estimates to allow for waste.

12
 Fastener Choices
Use aluminum, galvanized steel, or other corrosion-resistant nails, staples,
or screws when installing vinyl siding. Aluminum trim pieces require alu-
minum or stainless steel fasteners. All fasteners must be able to penetrate
not less than 3/4" into framing or furring (Fig. 15). (Review your local building
codes for variations that may apply to specific geographic areas.)

Nails
Nail heads should be 5/16" minimum in diameter. Shank should be 1/8" in
diameter (Fig. 15).

Screw Fasteners
Screw fasteners can be used if the screws do not restrict the normal expan-
sion and contraction movement of the vinyl siding panel on the wall. Screws
must be centered in the slot with a minimum 1/32" space between the screw
head and the vinyl. Screws must be able to penetrate not less than 3/4" into
framing or furring and should be:
■ Size #8, truss head or pan head.
■ Corrosion-resistant, self-tapping sheet metal type.

Figure 15.

5/16 "
1/8 " minimum

3/4" 3/4" 3/4"

Fastener Fastener Fastener

Vinyl Siding Vinyl Siding

Vinyl Siding Wood Lap

Siding
Wood Wood Block or
Fan Fold
Framing Framing (foam under- Concrete Furring Strip
Plywood or OSB layment) (min. 3/4")
Sheathing
Original
Sheathing

New Construction Residing Over Block or Concrete

13
Fastening Procedure
Vinyl siding can expand and contract 1/2" or more NO
over a 12' 6" length with changes in temperature.
Whether using a nail, screw, or staple to fasten the NO
siding, the following basic rules must be followed:

■ Make sure the panels are

fully locked along the length of
the bottom, but do not force YES NO
them up tight when fastening.
not too tight

■ Do not drive the head of the fastener tightly

against the siding nail hem. Allow 1/32" clear- Figure 16.
ance (the thickness of a dime) between the fas-
tener head and the vinyl. Tight nailing,
screwing, or stapling will cause the vinyl
siding to buckle with changes in tempera-
ture (Fig. 16).

■ When fastening, start in the center of the

panel and work toward the ends. YES NO
Figure 17.
■ Center the fasteners in the slots to permit
expansion and contraction of the siding
(Fig. 17).

■ Drive fasteners straight and level to prevent

distortion and buckling of the panel (Fig. 18). NO
YES
■ Space the fasteners a maximum of 16" apart
for the horizontal siding panels, every 12" for Figure 18.
the vertical siding panels, and every 8" to 10"
for the accessories. These distances may be
increased if the manufacturer permits greater
spacing based on wind load testing. Start fas-
tening vertical siding and corner posts in the starting nail corner post
top of the uppermost slots to hold them in
position. Place all other fasteners in the center
of the slots (Fig. 19). Figure 19.

14
Staples
1/3 2 "
If staples are being used instead of nails or screws, they must
(Fig. 20):

■ Not be less than 16-gauge semi-flattened to an elliptical

cross-section.
■ Penetrate not less than 3/4" into framing or furring.
■ Be wide enough in the crown to allow free movement
of the siding (1/32" away from the nailing hem).

Cutting the Siding

When cutting vinyl siding, follow these guidelines: Figure 20.

■ Safety goggles are always recommended for all

cutting and nailing operations. As on any construction
job, use proper safety equipment and follow safe
construction practices.

■ With a circular saw, install the fine-toothed (plywood)

blade backwards on the saw for a smoother, cleaner
cut, especially in cold weather. (Fig. 21.) Cut slowly.
Do not attempt to cut materials other than vinyl with a Install blade
reversed direction saw blade. backwards
Caution! Use of a backwards blade on any other
materials could be unsafe.

■ With tin snips, avoid closing the blades completely Figure 21.
at the end of a stroke for a neater, cleaner cut (Fig. 22).

■ With a utility knife or scoring tool, score the vinyl face up with medium
pressure and snap it in half. It is not necessary to cut all the way
through the vinyl (Fig. 23).

Figure 22. Figure 23.

15
 Preparing the Walls
A flat, level wall surface is necessary for proper installation of vinyl siding. Install
flashing before starting to apply the siding.

Unless already installed, a weather resistant barrier should be applied to the house
prior to installing vinyl siding. Refer to page 2 for more information on weather
resistant barriers. Consult your local building code official for requirements in
your area.
New Construction
■Tip: To reduce the possibility of the floor-plate compression, drywall, roof-
ing, or other heavy building materials should be installed or stored
throughout the house prior to the installation of vinyl siding. Floor-plate
compression can result in buckled siding at the intersection of the floor
and the wall. Nail loose
boards
Replace rotten
Residing boards
■ Nail down loose boards of existing
siding, and replace any rotten ones
(Fig. 24). Do not install vinyl
siding over rotting wood.

■ Scrape off loose caulk and re-caulk

around windows, doors, and other
areas to protect from moisture
penetration.

■ Remove all protrusions such as gut- Figure 24.

ters, downspouts, and light fixtures.

■ Check all walls for evenness and install Furring

strips
furring strips where necessary. When
installing furring strips, please take appropri-
ate measures to establish a smooth and
continuous surface. (Fig. 25).

NOTE: In cases where the lower portion of a

horizontal siding panel must be trimmed so
that it may be installed over steps, porches,
etc., the panel should be built out (“furred”)
for proper angle and rigidity. Utility trim can
be used to seal the cut edge of the panel and
then secured to the wall.
Figure 25.
16
INSTALLING ACCESSORIES
Before the siding itself can be hung, a number of accessories must be
installed first, including starter strips, corner posts, window flashing, trim,
and J-channels over the roof lines.

Starter Strip
In order for the siding to be installed properly in a level fashion, the starter
strip at the bottom of the wall must be level.

■ Determine the lowest point of the wall that will be sided; from that
point, measure up 1/4" less than the width of the starter strip and
partially drive a nail at one corner.
1/4"
■ Attach a chalkline; go to the next cor-
ner and pull the line taut.

■ Make sure the line is level by using a

line level or a 4' level.

■ Snap the chalkline and repeat the pro-

cedure around the entire house. Figure 26.
■ Optional method to determining the position of the starter strip in
new construction and some residing
applications: Measure down from the
soffit at one corner of the house to the
top of the foundation and subtract 1/4" NOTE: When insulation or
less than the width of the starter strip. backerboard is used, fur the
Make a mark on the wall and record starter strip, if necessary, to
the measurement. Transfer the mea- accommodate thickness. For a
surement to the other corner of the vertical siding starter strip, see
wall. Snap a chalk line in between the the section on vertical siding.
corners at the marks. Repeat the pro-
cedure around the entire house.

■ Using the chalkline as a guide, install the top edge of the starter
strip along the bottom of the chalkline, nailing at 10" intervals.
Allow space for the corner posts, J-channels, etc.

■ Keep the ends of starter strips at

NOTE: In certain situations, it may
least 1/4" apart to allow for expan-
sion (Fig. 26). be necessary to use J-channel as
a starter strip; remember to drill
■ Nail in the center of the starter strip minimum 1/8" diameter weep holes
nailing slots. no more than 24" apart.
17
 Outside and Inside Corner Posts
■ A water resistant material should 10" 10"
used to flash the inside and out-
side corners a minimum of 10"
on each side before installation
of the corner posts (Fig. 27).

NOTE: Install vinyl soffit and fascia before Figure 27.

installing outside and inside corner posts.
1/4" space at top of wall
■ Place the corner post in position,
allowing a 1/4" gap between the top
of the post and the eave or soffit.
Position a nail at the top of the upper
slot on both sides of the corner post,
leaving a 1/32" gap between the nail 8"--12"
heads and the corner posts. The cor-
ner post hangs from these nails. The
balance of the nailing should be in
the center of the slot, 8" to 12" apart,
again leaving 1/32" between the nail
head and the corner post. This
allows for the expansion and con-
traction to occur at the bottom. The
corner post should extend 3/4" below
the starter strip. Make sure the posts
are plumb (i.e., vertically straight)
(Fig. 28 and 29). Figure 28.
■ If more than one length of
corner post is required,
overlap the upper piece
over the lower piece by cut-
ting away 1" of the nailing
flange on the top piece.
1/4" space at top of wall
Overlap 3/4", allowing 1/4"
for expansion. This method
will produce a visible joint
between the two posts, but
will allow water to flow over
the joint, reducing the
chance of water infiltration.

Figure 29.

18
 Windows, Doors, and Roof Lines
Flashing Previously Installed Windows
The following instructions should be
followed when applying window flash-
ing to an existing window:

■ Apply a continuous bead of

sealant adjacent to the sill of
the existing window. For win-
dows with nailing flanges, the
sealant should be applied to
the nailing flange in a manner
that covers the nails and nail
slots. Apply a minimum of 9"
wide horizontal sill flashing
level with the bottom edge of
the existing window by press-
ing the flashing into the sealant bead at its top Figure 30.
edge. Cut the sill flashing long enough to
extend a minimum of 9" beyond each jamb.
Fasten the sill flashing at the bottom and side
edges (Fig. 30).

■ Apply a continuous bead of sealant adjacent to

the side jambs of the window. For windows
with nailing flanges, the sealant should be
applied to the nailing flange in a manner that
covers the nails and nail slots. Continue the
bead of sealant at the jambs vertically a mini-
mum of 8 1/2" above the head of the window
to allow for bedding the top portion of the jamb
flashing into sealant in the next step. Install the
jamb flashing by pressing the flashing into the
sealant beads at the window jambs. Extend
the bottom edge of the jamb flashing approxi-
mately 1/2" short of the sill flashing edge, and
extend the top edge approximately 8 1/2"
beyond the head of the window, where the
head flashing will be placed next. Fasten the
jamb flashing along the edges further most
from the window (Fig. 31).

NOTE: Sealant should be compatible with

window, flashing, and weather resistant barri-
er materials. Contact sealant manufacturer
for job-specific recommendations. Figure 31.
19
 ■ Apply a continuous bead of sealant adjacent
to the head of the installed window. For win-
dows with nailing flanges, the sealant should
be applied to the nailing flange in a manner
that covers the nails and nail slots. Install the
head flashing by pressing the bottom edge of
the flashing into the sealant bead previously
applied across the mounting flange. Extend
the ends of the head flashing approximately 1"
beyond the jamb flashing at each end. Fasten
the head flashing into place along the top
edge (Fig. 32).

Flashing New Window Installations

Refer to window manufacturer’s instructions and
ASTM E2112, Standard Practice for Installation of
Exterior Windows, Doors and Skylights for the proper
flashing installation method for the window type and
wall configuration on the project.

Trim
J-channel is used around windows and doors to
receive the siding. Follow the steps below when
applying trim.
Figure 32.
■ Cut and bend the tab of the top piece of
J-channel down to provide flashing over the side J-channel.

■ Fold the bottom end of the side piece of J-channel inward at the bottom of the
window, to fit over the existing J-channel to prevent water from entering under
the sill.

20
 ■ Cut the side J-channel mem- J-channel
bers longer than the height of
the window or door, and notch
the channel at the top. Bend over
45º
Cut
■ Miter cut the free flange at a Cut approximate
45° angle and bend the tab width of nail flange
down to provide flashing over
the side members (Fig. 33). A
similar miter and tab may be J-channel
provided at the bottom of the
window, depending on the sill’s
condition. The J-channel Figure 33.
should fit snug to the window.

J-Channel Over Roof Lines

Install the flashing before the J-channel to prevent water infiltration along the
intersection of a roof and wall.

■ Keep the J-channel approximately 1/2" from the roof line. Chalk a
straight line up the roof flashing to guide J-channel installation.
Tip: You can use another J-channel laid over the shingles as a
spacer to create the straight line desired.

■ Overlap the J-channel (lapping the upper piece over the lower
piece) if it is necessary to use more than one piece.

■ Extend the J-channel past the edge of the roof, channeling water
into the gutter, in order to ensure proper runoff.

■ With dark shingles, or a south or west exposure, it is recom-

mended to either use a metal J-channel or to install the vinyl J-
channel as far away from the roofing as is aesthetically accept-
able, having first ensured that there is sufficient flashing behind
the J-channel to prevent water infiltration.

NOTE: Vinyl J-channels should not be in

direct contact with roofing shingles, since
the shingles may transfer enough heat to
the vinyl J-channel to cause its distortion.

21
 First nail
■ Fasten the nail, screw, or sta-
ple that is closest to the roof
Horizontal siding
line at the far end of the nail
hem slot, to ensure that sid-
ing will expand away from the J-channel
J-channel (Fig. 34).
1/2" min.
gap

Roof flashing
Figure 34.

Gable and Trim

Before applying siding to the gables,
the J-channel should be installed to
receive the siding at the gable ends
(Fig. 35):

■ Where the left and right

sections meet at the gable
peak, let one of the sections Figure 35.
butt into the peak with the
other section overlapping.

■ A miter cut should be made on the face flange of this piece for better
appearance.

■ Fasten the J-channel every 8" to 12".

■ If more than one length of J-channel is required to span a wall surface, be

sure to overlap the J-channels by 3/4".

22
HORIZONTAL SIDING INSTALLATION
Installing Panels
■ The first course (row of panels) should be
placed in the starter strip and securely
locked along the entire length of the siding
panel. Make sure the panel is securely
locked before fastening.

■ Fasten the panels in the center of the nail-

ing slots (see page 14 for specific informa-
tion on fastening and fasteners).
Allowance should be made for expansion
and contraction by leaving a 1/4" gap Figure 36.
between the siding and all corner posts and
channels (increase to 3/8" when installing in
temperatures below 40° F. If the panels
are 20 feet or longer, increase the gap to
1"
3/8", unless the manufacturer's instruc-
tions specify otherwise).

■ Do not drive the head of the fastener tight-

ly against the nail slot. Leave 1/32" Overlap away
between the fastener head and the vinyl from areas of
(about the thickness of a dime). high traffic
(e.g., doors)
■ Do not force the panels up or down when
fastening. Panel locks should be fully
engaged; however, the panels should not
be under vertical tension or compression
when they are fastened. Figure 37.
■ Since vinyl siding moves as the tempera-
ture changes, make certain that the vinyl panels can move freely
in a side-to-side direction once fastened.

■ Check every fifth or sixth course for horizontal alignment (Fig. 36).
Also check siding alignment with adjoining walls.

■ When panels overlap, make sure they overlap by one half the length
of the notch at the end of the panel, or approximately 1" (Fig. 37).

■ Stagger the siding end laps so that no two courses (rows of pan-
els) are aligned vertically, unless separated by at least three
courses (rows of panels).

23
 ■ Always overlap joints away from entrances and
away from the point of greatest traffic. This will
improve the overall appearance of the installa-
tion (Fig. 37).

Fitting Siding Around Fixtures

Use a commercially available trim ring (Fig. 38) to fit siding
to a penetration such as a faucet or railing attachment, fol-
lowing the manufacturer's installation instructions. If a com-
mercial trim ring is not available for the application, refer to Figure 38.
Fig. 39, which illustrates how to fit the siding to the penetra-
tion. In addition, the following tips are suggested:

■ If hand-fitting to the fixture, always begin a new

course of siding at the fixture to avoid excess lap
joints.
1/4"
■ Cut an opening 1/4" bigger than the fixture or the
trim ring.

■ When cutting, match the shape and contour of

the obstruction.

Fitting Under Windows

To mark the section to be cut, perform the following:
■ Hold the panel under the window and mark the
width of the window opening on the panel. Add
approximately 1/4" to both sides to allow for Figure 39.
expansion and contraction of the siding. These
marks represent the vertical cuts (Fig. 40).

■ Lock a small piece of scrap siding into the lower

panel next to the window. This will be used as a
template for the horizontal cuts. Mark it 1/4" below
the sill height.
1/4"
■ Transfer the horizontal measurement to the panel, 1/4"
which will be installed under the window.
Measurement may not be the same on both sides
of the window.

■ Cut the panel with tin snips and a utility knife. Figure 40.

24
 The cut panel is now ready for installation under the win-
dow. Perform the following:

■ Using a snap lock punch, punch the vinyl siding

along the cut edge every 6" so the raised lug is Utility trim
on the outside face.
Snap lock lugs
■ Install utility trim under the window, as a receiver
for the cut siding. Utility trim is used any time the Install cut
top lock has been removed from the siding. edge in trim
Furring may be needed to maintain the face of
the panel at the desired angle. Figure 41.
■ Install the siding panel, making sure the Corner Post
lugs (from the snap lock punch) lock into
the utility trim (Fig. 41). Roof Flashing
Diverter

Roof
Sidewall Flashing at Roof Lines
■ Run the siding until the last full course
under the roof area. J-Channel

■ Cut a diverter from aluminum trim sheet, Nail Hem Drip Edge
making sure it sits on the nail hem of the
last full course (Fig. 42). Also make sure to
slip it behind all J-channels and roof Figure 42.
flashing.

■ As an alternative to the diverter, create a

“kickout” from metal flashing, as shown in
Fig. 43.

■ Cut the next piece of siding, making sure

the vertical lap falls behind the roof flash-
ing and roof J-channel (Fig. 44).

■ Cut a small piece of siding that will be

placed on top of the previous piece of sid-
ing and sits in the roof J-channel (Fig. 45).

NOTE: “Kick-out flashing” (Fig. 43) is an

additional flashing strip that extends
beyond the edge of the fascia that is Figure 43.
required in some cold-climate localities.
25
 Roof Flashing
Siding
■ Install the remaining course of siding.
Water running behind the panel will be
J-Channel
directed by the diverter into the butt of
the panel, draining out in the weep
holes. Drip Edge

Finishing at the Top

Figure 44.
Before the final course of siding is installed on the
wall, any soffit accessories that will be used on the
Roof Flashing
eaves must be installed. See the soffit installation
section. Overlapping Siding

Gable Ends
To install around gable ends, make a pattern that
duplicates the slope of the gable (Fig. 46):
J-Channel
■ Lock a short piece of siding into the Drip Edge
gable starter course (i.e., the last
course before the gable starts).

■ Hold a second piece of siding against Figure 45.

the J-channel at the slope of the
gable. Mark the slope with a pencil
on the short piece of siding. Check
the angle template every few cours-
es.

■ Remove the short piece and cut

✎

along the pencil line as a pattern for

the gable angle cuts. Repeat the
procedure on the opposite side of Draw line here
the gable.
Figure 46.
■ It may be necessary to fasten the last
panel at the gable peak with a trim
nail. Use a 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" nail. This Colored aluminum
or stainless steel
is the only time a nail should be finish nail
placed in the face of the vinyl siding
(Fig. 47).

Figure 47.

26
Eaves Treatment
The last course of siding may be cut to fit the eaves open-
ing (Fig. 48).

■ Measure from the soffit to the base of the upper

lock on the previous course of panels. Subtract
1/4''. Mark this dimension on the panel to be cut, Distance
minus 1/4”
measuring from the bottom edge of the panel. It is
a good idea to check the dimension in several
locations along the length of the wall.

■ Using a snap lock punch, punch the vinyl siding

along the cut edge every 6", so the raised lug is
on the outside face. Figure 48.

■ Push the siding into the utility trim that has been nailed in place along
the top of the wall. Furring may be needed to maintain the face of the
panel at the desired angle. The raised lugs will catch and hold the
siding firmly in place.

Transition from Horizontal to Vertical

■ Finish the last course of horizontal siding with the J-channel and/or
finish trim. Install a drip cap and a J-channel. The top piece of J-
channel must have minimum 1/8" diameter weep holes drilled no
more than 24" apart to allow for water runoff.

Transition from Brick to Vinyl Siding

■ Caulk where the sheathing meets the brick or stone exterior. Flashing
should be caulked where it meets the brick or stone and a drip cap
should be in place.

■ If horizontal siding is used, a J-channel or starter strip may be used.

If starter strip is used, it is necessary to provide at least 3/8" clear-
ance for proper engagement of the siding.

■ Use a J-channel to receive vertical siding; remember to drill minimum

1/8" diameter weep holes no more than 24" apart.

27
VERTICAL SIDING AND ACCESSORIES
INSTALLATION
Preparation
See section “Preparing the Walls” on page 16. When installing vertical siding, however,
follow these additional preparatory steps:

■ Install horizontal furring strips, 12" on center, or a solid nailable sheathing

prior to the siding, if needed, to level the surface or provide sufficient materi-
al for 3/4" fastener penetration.

■ Snap a level chalkline around the base of the sidewalls. Typically, the chalk-
line is positioned so that the bottom of the J-channel that will serve as a ver-
tical starter strip is 1/4" below the lowest point on the wall that will be sided.
(See the “Installing Accessories” section for tips on snapping a chalkline.)
Install J-channel along the chalkline as a receiver for the vertical siding.

Accessories
As with horizontal siding, when installing vertical siding it is necessary to install several
accessories first, including corner posts and window, door, and roof trim.

Outside and Inside Corner Posts

■ Leave 1/4" gap at the top of
corner posts.

■ Place the first nails in the

uppermost end of the top
nail slots to hold them in
position (Fig. 49). Place all
other nails in the center of
the slots. Nails should be 8"
Figure 49.
to 12" apart.

■ Corner posts should extend 3/4" below the siding. Do not nail tightly; the corner
post should move.

NOTE: Install vinyl soffit and fascia before installing outside and
inside corner posts.

28
Bottom Receiver
■ Position the top edge of a J-channel
or vertical base along the previously
snapped chalkline. Remember to drill
minimum 1/8" diameter weep holes
no more than 24" apart.

■ Fasten every 8" to 12". Use the cen-

1/4"
ter of the nail slots. All vinyl should
Figure 50.
be fastened securely but not tightly.
Sideways movement should not be
restricted. Leave 1/4" gaps at the cor- 1"
Trim back
ner posts (Fig. 50). Where lengths
adjoin, trim the nailing flange 1" and
overlap 1/2" to produce a neat joint
(Fig. 51).

Window, Door, and Roof Trim

1/2"
Install J-channel at the tops of the sidewalls. Figure 51.
At the gable ends, snap a level chalkline along
the base of the gable and install J-channel.
Overlap where necessary and allow for expan-
sion (Fig. 52).

After installing flashing, trim around all windows

and doors using J-channel. The following J-channel
sequence is suggested:
Sidewall
■ Cut a J-channel for the bottom of the
window, as wide as the frame, and Figure 52.
install it.

■ Cut side J-channels the length of the

frame plus the width of the top and bot-
tom J-channel. Cut and bend tabs (Fig.
53) into the bottom channel. Install the
side channels.

J-channel

Figure 53.

29
 ■ Cut the top J-channel the width
J-channel
of the frame PLUS the width of
the side J-channels. Notch the
top J-channel on each end, Bend over
bend the tabs into the side 45º
J-channel, and fasten the top Cut
J-channel (Fig. 54). Cut approximate
width of nail flange
■ A miter cut and tab can be pro-
vided at the bottom of the win- J-channel
dow (see page 21), depending
on the sill’s condition.

Figure 54.
Sidewalls
Starter Strip
Corner post
■ Create a vertical starter strip by cut-
Vertical starter strip
ting the nailing hem and adjacent lock (slit in half)
off a vertical siding panel. Fasten it
inside the receiver channel of the cor-
ner post. Be sure this piece is plumb.
Leave enough clearance in the pocket
of the corner post to allow the siding
panel to be attached (Fig. 55). Figure 55.
■ Install J-channels at top and bottom.
Fasten panels 12" on center. Leave 1/4"
clearance at top and 3/8" at bottom.
Place the first fasteners in the uppermost J-channel
end of the top nail slots to hold them in
position. Place all other fasteners in the Vertical panel
3/8"
center of the slots.
1/4"
■ If it will take more than one course to Head
span the height of the house, terminate flashing
the first course into an inverted J-chan-
nel (Fig. 56), allowing 1/4" for expan- J-channel
sion. Install head flashing on top of the
J-channel and install a second J-chan-
nel facing upward. Begin the second
Figure 56.
course leaving a 3/8" gap from the bot-
tom of the panel to the J-channel.

30
Panels
■ Working from the starter strip to the corners,
lock each panel and fasten every 12". Vertical
panels are terminated into the J-channel
installed at top and the vertical base or J-
channel installed at bottom.

Windows and Doors

■ At window and doors, cut the panels Vertical panel
(if necessary) to fit the openings,
allowing 1/4" for expansion.

■ If the panel is uncut or cut down in J-channel

the “V”-shaped groove of a piece of Window or
Furring strip door frame
vertical siding, simply insert it into the
J-channel, locking the other side onto Figure 57.
the previously applied panel (Fig. 57). A
furring strip should be installed to prevent
panel detachment.
Window or
■ If the panel is cut on the flat surface, door frame Utility trim
install utility trim, backed by furring,
Vertical panel
into the J-channel. The flat surface of
the vertical siding should be snap lock
punched and fitted into the utility trim
(Fig. 58). The panel is further secured J-channel
Furring strip
above and below the windows and
above the door when the panel is fas-
tened in place.
Figure 58.
Corners
At corners, the following steps are recommended:
Corner post
■ Install the utility trim or J-channel into J-channel
the receiver of the corner post. Vertical panel
■ If the panel is cut in the bottom of the
V-groove, insert it into the J-channel. A Furring
furring strip should be provided prior to strip
panel insertion. This will prevent the
panel from detaching (Fig. 59). Figure 59.

31
 ■ If the panel is cut on the flat surface, install
utility trim, backed by furring, into the J- Utility trim
channel. Punch snap locks along the cut Vertical panel
edge of the panel at 6" intervals and snap
it into the utility trim (Fig. 60).
Corner
Gable Ends post Furring strip

For application of vertical siding to gables, follow the Figure 60.

instructions below. For a consistent appearance, use
the same method to center the starter strips in the
sidewall below the gable end.
■ Begin by fastening J-channel along the Vertical Starter strip
panels
inside edge of the roof. Install an upward
facing J-channel as a vertical base on top J-channel
of the previously installed J-channel at the
base of the gable, as shown in Figure 56
on page 30. Figure 61.

■ Find the center of the gabled wall and use a

level or plumbline to attach either a vertical sid-
ing starter strip or two back-to-back regular
starter strips, centered with the peak of the
gable (Fig. 61). Leave a 1/4” gap at the top
and the bottom (Figure 62). This area Vertical
starter 1/4" from top
should be flashed prior to installing the strip of sidewall
starter strips.

■ As an alternative, install two back-to-back J-

channels or an H-divider bar centered with the
peak of the gable. Then install starter strips
into the receiving channels using the proce-
dure described for starting vertical siding at cor- Figure 62.
ner posts.

■ Make a pattern for end cuts along the gable using

two pieces of scrap siding (Fig. 63). Lock one piece
into the vertical strip at the center of the wall. Hold
the edge of the other piece against and in line with
the roof line. Mark the slope on the vertical piece
and cut along that line. Use it as a pattern to mark
and cut the ends of all other panels required for this
✎

side of the gable end. Make another pattern for the

other side of the gable.
Draw line here
Figure 63.
32
SOFFIT INSTALLATION NOTE: Ventilation Requirements:
Proper attic ventilation is important for
Soffit is the name given to materials used to any home. Consult a local building offi -
enclose the underside of an eave. The installa- cial for the appropriate requirements
tion of soffit will determine the positioning of the for a specific geographical area, and
inside and outside corner posts. It also is neces- use vented soffit or other vented prod-
sary to complete the soffit before the final ucts as necessary.
course of siding is installed on the wall.

Vinyl soffit is designed to be easily installed lengthwise from wall to fascia.

Soffit panels are similar to vertical siding. Manufacturers produce both solid
and vented panels.

Preparation
Inspect and plan the job in advance. For residing applications, nail down any
loose panels, boards, or shingles. Check surfaces for straightness and fur
when necessary. Surfaces should be uniform and straight from various view-
ing angles.

The procedure used to install soffit depends on the construction of the eave.
There are two different types of eaves:

■ Open eaves—eaves with exposed rafters or trusses—are typical

of new construction. Open eave installation procedures are also
used when removing damaged soffit during a residing project.

■ Enclosed eaves—eaves with soffit in place—are typical of resid-

ing projects.

33
 Installation Over Open Eaves Fascia cap or
Follow this 5-step procedure: coil stock
Open truss
Soffit receiver
1. Install receiving channels (soffit receiver or
J-channel).

■ There are several ways to install Soffit

receiving channels for soffit. You can Under 24"
use accessories such as the J-chan-
nel or the F-channel. The best approach Figure 64.
is to select a method that works most
effectively with the construction tech-
niques used to create the eave.

■ Examine the illustrations at right and Open truss

find one that most closely resembles Soffit receiver
the construction methods used on J-channel
this particular project (Fig. 64
through 67). Soffit
Under 24"
■ Install the receiving channels follow-
ing the details shown in the illustrations. Figure 65.
Nail channels every 12" to 16", posi-
tioning the nail in the center of the slot.
Do not nail tightly.
Open rafter
Soffit receiver

Soffit
Under 24"

Figure 66.
NOTE: If the eave span is 24" or
more, nailing strips must be installed
as shown (Fig. 67). In areas with high
wind restrictions, nailing should not
Add nailing strips
exceed 12" on center.
Add framing

Soffit
J-channel
24" or more
Figure 67.
34
 ■ If no soffit receiver is available
for a situation best suited for the
product, the J-channel can be
modified to create an F-receiver
(Fig. 68).

■ Simply cut slots in the nail

flange area where it would be
nailed to the wall (Fig. 68). After
cutting the nail flange, bend the
Figure 68.
flange back and nail it to the wall.

■ If the soffit will turn a corner, cut

and install the channel so there is
Utility Fascia
1/4" for expansion at each of the trim
adjoining walls.

2. Measure from the wall to the fascia board.

Then subtract 1/2" to allow for expansion. Soffit
panels
Mark this dimension on a soffit panel and
cross cut using a circular power saw with
a reversed finetooth blade. Cut one or two
panels at a time, carefully advancing the
saw through the vinyl.
Vinyl fascia
cap
3. Insert the panel into the channel on the Figure 69.
wall, then into the channel at the fascia
board (Fig. 69).

■ It might be necessary to flex the NOTE: When nailing to the fascia

panel slightly to insert it into the board, use small-headed nails.
second channel. Drive the nail through the nail
■ Make certain the panel is perpen-
flange and "V"-shaped groove
dicular to the wall, then nail. within the soffit panel. This is one
Depending on the installation of the rare instances that face-
method being used, nails will be nailing is permissible. Once a sof-
hammered either into a nailing strip fit panel is face-nailed, it will
or a fascia board. expand only in one direction, in
this case, toward the receiving
■ When using a nailing strip, do not
nail tightly—allow movement for
channel. Be sure to leave space
expansion. Continue the installation for the full expansion allowance in
by locking and nailing the panels. the receiving channel.
Make certain the panels are fully
locked along their entire length.

35
 4. To turn a corner, measure from the chan-
Fascia
nel at the wall corner to the channel at Soffit double
the corner of the fascia board (Fig. 70). channel lineal
Subtract 1/4" for expansion. Cut and
install soffit double channel lineal or
back-to-back J-channel. If necessary,
install nailing strips to provide backing for
the lineal. Miter cut the corner soffit pan-
els and install as described in Step 3.
Miter soffit
panels
5. To complete the installation, apply the
utility trim and fasten the aluminum fas- Figure 70.
cia cap or formed aluminum coil stock
with painted trim nails. If necessary to
face nail fascia, drill holes for the trim
nails to allow for expansion and to
reduce denting of the aluminum.

Installation Over Enclosed Fascia cap

Eaves or coil
stock
Enclosed Nailing strip
The procedure used to install soffit over eave
an enclosed eave is almost identical to
that used for an open eave. The major dif-
ference is the installation of the
J-channel (Fig. 71 and 72). Soffit J-receiver
■ Determine the preferred Figure 71.
method of installing soffit at the
fascia board.

■ When installing J-channel at

either wall of fascia board,
nail every 12" to 16".

Enclosed
eave Soffit

NOTE: If the existing soffit is rotted

J-channel
or damaged, remove it completely
before installing vinyl soffit, then use Figure 72.
the instructions for open eaves.

36
 ■ If the soffit is to turn a corner, cut and install J-channel to allow 1/4"
for expansion at each of the adjoining walls and fascia boards.

■ When installing vented soffit panels, if the existing soffit doesn’t

have openings for ventilation, cut an adequate number of openings.

■ To complete the installation, follow Steps 3 through 5 from

“Installation Over Open Eaves.”

Porch Ceilings
The procedures used to install a porch ceiling are in many ways similar to
those used to install soffit. These procedures vary slightly, depending on
whether the installation is a new construction or a residing project.

New Construction Projects

1. Begin by installing receiving channels on all four sides of the porch
(Fig. 73). If F-receivers are being used, nail them to the existing
walls. If J-channels are being used, a nailing base will have to be
installed.

2. When planning to use light blocks to attach external light fixtures,

install them to adequate backing.

3. Plan the layout of the ceiling panels to achieve an even balance or to

align with adjacent work. If the ceiling panels will run parallel to the
ceiling joists, additional 1" x 3" wood furring nailing strips will have to
be installed. Install these nailing strips perpendicular to the ceiling
joists, placing a strip every 12" to 16".

4. Invert the J-channels and nail them to the underside of the wood
strips along the perimeter of the ceiling area.

5. Install the first panel into the channels at one end Quarter round
or other trim Vertical panels
of the porch. Be sure to leave room for expansion.
Nail every 12" to 16", positioning nails in the centers J-channel
of slots. Do not nail tightly. Install the remaining or other trim
panels. When cutting the last panel of the first
course, be sure to allow room for expansion.

6. For areas where more than one panel length is Figure 73.
needed, use a double channel lineal or back-to-
back J-channel.

37
 7. If it is necessary to cut the nailing hem off the final panel, use a snap lock punch to create tabs
every 8” to 10” along the cut edge. Attach utility trim and insert the panel into the receiving channel.

Residing Projects
1. Check to be sure the existing ceiling can serve as a solid nailing base.

2. If the existing ceiling is solid, remove all existing moldings and fixtures from the ceiling and
begin by nailing inverted J-channels along the perimeter of the ceiling area. Then follow Steps 2
through 6 in the instructions under “New Construction.” With a solid ceiling, however, additional
nailing strips are not necessary. Use the existing ceiling as the nailing base for the panels.

3. If the existing ceiling is not solid, install nailing strips to provide a secure nailing base, then install
the J-channels. Additional nailing strips should be installed if the ceiling panels are to run parallel
to the ceiling joists. Follow the instructions in Steps 2 through 6 for new construction.

OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS
Attaching Shutters
To install shutters around windows:

■ Pre-drill holes through the shut-

ters for attachment screws and
mark the location of these holes
on the siding (Fig. 74).

■ Using the hole marks as a guide,

drill expansion holes through the
siding where attachment screws Figure 74.
will be located, a minimum 1/4”
larger than the diameter of the
screw (Fig. 75).

■ When attaching the shutters, do

not fasten such that the shutter
bears tightly against the siding,
otherwise expansion of the siding
will be restricted.

Figure 75.

38
Replacing a Damaged Panel zip tool

To remove a panel for any reason:

■ Slip the unlocking tool behind the bot-

tom of the panel above the one to be
replaced and unzip it from the lock on
the damaged panel (Fig. 76).
Figure 76. Figure 77.
■ Gently bend out the upper panel.
Take the nails out of the damaged
panel and remove it (Fig. 77). zip lock tool

■ Lock on the new panel and nail it

up (Fig. 78).

■ Use the unlocking tool again to

zip the upper panel over the lock
on the new panel (Fig. 79). Figure 78. Figure 79.
Overlap
Residing Over Asbestos Siding flaps
Asbestos siding is a regulated material, and the appropriate envi-
ronmental agency should be contacted before residing over this
product begins.

Capping a Corner Post

■ Corner posts on homes with a second-story overhang
need to be capped by making the cuts shown (Fig. 80).
Fold the flaps created over each other as indicated.

■ Drill a 1/8" hole in the center, through both layers of vinyl,

Figure 80.
and install a pop rivet to hold them in place. Cut a notch in
both layers to allow clearance for the corner (Fig. 81).

Repairing a Damaged Corner Post

Repair a damaged corner post with a series of cuts:

■ Cut away the face of the damaged corner, leaving the

nail hem intact. Pop
rivet
Notch
■ Remove the nail hem from the replacement corner and
trim it to fit.

■ Place the new corner over the nailing hem of the old
and fasten it into position.

39 Figure 81.
National Housing Center
1201 15th Street, NW
Suite 220
Washington, DC 20005

For more information,

visit VSI’s Web site
<www.vinylsiding.org>