This article was originally written in 1991.

Please note there may be some slight inaccuracies, and, well I was only 15 when I wrote it. This is the full text submitted to FineScale Modeler (plus
some new minor notes), which was greatly edit when printed. –CP

CONSTRUCTING A MOVIE-WORTHY MINIATURE

ACCURIZING AMT’S ENTERPRISE MODEL

WRITTEN BY CHRIS PAVEGLIO

(original printing by Kalmbach Publishing, FineScale Modeler, January 1992)

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 1

 MATERIALS NEEDED:
T H E E N TE R P R I S E 1 AMT/Ertl USS Enterprise ST 4 or 5 kit
airbrush
One of the most relaxing forms of modeling must surely be that
2 tubes Squadron green putty or similar
of modeling spacecraft. Science fiction miniatures require little,
low tack frisket paper (Dr. Ph. Martin’s brand, for example)
if any, exactness of detail because the viewer rarely spots minor
drafting tape
inconsistencies that may be apparent on a scale tank or aircraft.
Micro Krystal-Kleer
Space vehicles can be built in any scale, allowing the builder to
files, many shapes and sizes
use many left over, around-the-house pieces, and enough imagi-
Dremel drill
nation to satisfy his building appetite.
plastic scribing tool
But, the universe of Star Trek is slightly different: there is a
X-Acto knives
purpose for everything, so you just can’t glue on a golf ball and
squeegee
say it’s a fuel tank. And AMT/Ertl can’t just scribe little panels
glue-regular and epoxy
on the body or change the paint scheme. That is why this article
sheet styrene .030
is written: to help you build a movie worthy miniature from
wet or dry sandpaper- 240, 320, 400, 600
AMT’s kit without all the hours of research needed to fix the
red striping decals
mistakes.
Building procedures will be divided by ship sections, but you
Tamiya paints- by #
may want to do all the major puttying and sanding at the same
1 X18 semi-gloss black
time. Remember to wash off all parts first.
1 XF1 flat aluminum
You may wish to write to AMT/Ertl for another set of decals,
1 X11 chrome silver
because another small “Enterprise” is needed for the rear of the
1 XF66 light grey
secondary hull under the shuttle bay doors. The address is High-
3 XF2 flat white
ways 136 and 20, Dyersville, IA 52040.
3 X2 gloss white
I would also suggest that you watch Star Trek 1, 2, & 6.
1 XF21 sky
These are excellent visual guides for the tonal variations in the
2 XF54
paint scheme. One last note: AMT is presently issuing a light
up, sound effect Enterprise model you may want to check out.

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 2

Testor’s paints- by name
flat red Before After
flat sky blue
flat tan
flat yellow
flat black
flat rubber
copper

Polly S (brand) Earth Yellow

THE DISH Figure 1: Chop down that dome, and if you like,
Beginning at the top, remove all flash, alignment pins, and lop off the huge light dimple, sand off the box
detail on the side.
the large bump from the bridge (pc. 3). Using an X-Acto saw
blade cut the upper dome off, using the middle ring as the slicing okay, but the rear edge should be slanted more at a 45 degree
point. Sand the top of the bridge until cut marks are gone and angle. File this down until it is flatter and has no swelling look
the dome is smooth. File the bottom of the little dome down to it. The aft should be a mirror image of the front, albeit longer.
until flat, leaving only one ring and the four squares. Center and Using a very small file open the large windows, leaving as thin a
glue with squares facing as they were before the cut. Cut the separation as possible. The edges should be straight and end in a
sides and top of pc. 4 so that it will fit inside of pc. 3. Glue in. curve, not a sharp angle, at the corners. Using a tiny drill bit
Putty in the ports on either side of the circular port. Sand or file open the 8 circle and 2 oval windows slightly. Put a glob of putty
till flush with original rear wall. Sand off the lines on the sides of behind these 10 windows only. Make a floor for the VIP lounge
the bridge (fig. 1). Using a 5/32” drill for the moto-tool, slightly from styrene. You may want to try to make little pieces of furni-
enlarge the docking port on the rear of the bridge. This is the ture from styrene or putty. Do not glue this in yet, or open the
correct size for the four other ports on the ship. arc shaped, thin plastic openings on the top of the lounge.
The VIP lounge on pc. 1 (to which the bridge is cemented) On the dish itself, cut off the phasers and running lights on
is nicely detailed, but needs a little work. The front portion is both top and bottom halves. On the impulse engine, the section

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 3

with the four and a half raised squares has to be filed flat.
Engrave in five squares, equally sized and spaced (fig. 2). On the
six pc. 6’s, fill in the lower left window hole. Using a tiny drill
bit, drill out a new window centered below the upper left con-
secutive two (fig. 3), and also open up all the other oval and cir-
cular holes. Now cut off the tabs on the ends of the six pieces. drill out fill
On pc. 2, using the same drill bit, open up the 18 holes in the
bottom of the dish, and only the 8 windows on the port side rear Figure 3: Fill in the left lower dish window, and drill
of the dish edge. Drill out a shallow docking port hole on the a new one centered under the first two circle win-
dows.
starboard side of the dish. On the starboard side rear of the dish
edge drill out 8 holes, four on top of four, at the place where
is perfect.
there are lightly scribed windows in a six on two configuration.
Now comes the fun part. Using a squeegee, apply putty to
Use a tiny square file to file out 8 square windows (fig. 4). Glue
the entire surface of the dish. Coat a few sections of “pie” at a
the six window sections in, making sure outside edge alignment
time. Immediately use the scriber to rescribe only the deflector
grid. The purpose of this is to eliminate the tiny randomly posi-
tioned squares (fig. 5) and leave the evenly sized, non-overlap-
ping “grid” showing (fig. 6). Make sure to rescribe the 20 small
access hatches on rows five and six, the holes on the reaction
control thrusters (at the ends of four deflector grid lines), the
mid-sized squares on row three in front of the impulse engine,
and the curved shapes also in front of the impulse engines; you
might want to use an X-Acto knife for these. Be very careful
when puttying by the VIP lounge and impulse engines. Do not
clean out the two holes in front of or beside the impulse engine.
On the bottom half do the same, but only putty the curved
Figure 2: I had to fill in the window ports (left) to
get a better shape. Impulse engine with proper section, not the flat outer ring and edge. Putty, scribe, putty,
lines and ready for new low profile dome. scribe, putty, scribe...till it’s all done. Do not rescribe these

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 4

 Figure 4: Recreation Room windows, 4 on 4.

Figure 6: Hey now that’s looking smoother. Note

new inscribed hatches and improved docking door.
These panels should be moved forward 1 ring.

Figure 5: OK, What the hell is this crap? Prepare

to fill in these insane lines.

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 5

places: inside the three feet on rows three and four or the single
line on row four on the starboard front section. Use a hand-held
Dremel bit to clean out the 18 bottom windows. Look on row
one, starboard for a panel with two lines the depth of the deflec-
tor grid. Scribe these out. You will not find them on the port
side.
Wet sand the dish halves starting at 320 grit, then 400, then
600. Take your time with this, because the surface is one of the
most important keys to having an excellent Enterprise model.
Reputty and resand as many times as necessary to achieve a glass
smooth, nick free surface. When you are finished sanding,
rescribe the deflector grid a few times to clean out excess putty
or dirt. One caution: be very careful not to put a curve on the
bottom outside ring that I told you not to putty. When you are
done with the dish surface, putty up the outside ring and outside Figure 7: Scribe larger docking doors, scribe plan-
et-fall feet and access doors, move phaser mounts
edge (with the windows). With a hand-held Dremel bit quickly to the outer section of ring.
clean out the windows. Do not sand the edge yet, but using a flat
file, file smooth the outside ring, finishing the job with 400 and access panel and planetfall feet should be located on rows four
600 grit sandpaper, wet. Now is the time to glue in the VIP and five. The existing panels need removed and positioned for-
lounge floor to the top dish halve, use something durable and ward 1 ring section. All feet and panels should line up with the
slightly flexible, like epoxy. rings on the back of the dish. The starboard side, row one, a pan-
The lower dish needs another foot, access panel, docking el has the beginnings of docking port doors, which you were to
port, and auxiliary access panel (fig. 7). The aux. panel should find and scribe out. Use your flexi-ruler to extend the two lines
be scribed into row five forward (counting out from center), and the deflector grid line, which lies at a 45 degree angle to the
opposite the other small panel. Use a flexi six inch-ruler and a hull midline, 1/8 of an inch toward the center of the hull. Using
sharp knife to start the scribe. After a few knife scribes, change a compass, draw an arc connecting these three lines, and draw it
to using the scriber you used for the deflector grid cleaning. The around to the opposite port side panel. Using the flexi-ruler,

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 6

knife, and scriber create the two other needed lines to form cut the excess plastic from inside the snoots so only a thin sheet
another set of docking port doors. Scribe the arc to connect the of plastic covers the hull illumination lights. Using a plastic
bottom of the doors. You will have to fill in the bottom of the Helix or Berol template and a mechanical pencil, if you have
doors, the large access panel, and the foot. one, draw a 13/16 inch circle around the dome itself, and one 1
Also, the phaser banks on the lower part of the dish need to 3/8 inch on the housing between snoots. With your knife, scribe
be moved from “inside” of the first row, to outside of it, or inside the smaller circle, but extend the imaginary line of the four
the second row. It is just flipped to the other side of the line. housing protrusions to the larger circle. Using a small square file,
Clean out completely the windows on the bottom dish half cut down the housing on either side of the protrusion. File the
with the Dremel bit. Put a glob of putty behind every window, protrusions to a greater angle than the housing, but leaving
but don’t fill the windows. Cover the four large VIP lounge win- about a millimeter of original protrusion. Cut or file the very top
dows and bridge alignment holes with drafting tape. Glue the of this to make a circular housing with distinct edges (fig. 8). If
two dish halves together. You may need to putty the edge seam
slightly, try not to get putty in the windows. Wet sand the edge Before After
until it is glass smooth. Be careful as to not put a bow on the
edge; it needs to stay straight. The gaps between the dish halves,
window sections and hull, and lateral docking ports should not
show.
Scribe lightly with a knife only, lateral lines inside of the
impulse exhaust. Test fit the piece to the hull and file it as neces-
sary to fit properly, glue on. You will have to putty in the corners
and knife or file this down to achieve a solid angle. There is a
slight dimple on the bottom of the impulse exhaust you may also
want to fill. Take the tape off of the VIP lounge.
We finally reach the bottom of the dish. The lower sensor
dome (pc. 5) needs to have the 8 square exterior vents enlarged.
Use a knife to cut and scrape them open, or if you are good with Figure 8: Before and After, Lower Sensors. File
out nose, cut down outer ring. I didn’t make a new
a Dremel, use a flat, then a pointed bit for the corners. Carefully
bigger dome for mine.

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 7

you are good at casting, recast the lower sensor assembly, and
modify the mold, making the dome itself wider (diameter of
13/16”), but no taller. Rebuild the four squares and detail lines, if
possible.
You may now glue the bridge to the VIP lounge, but leave
the sensor dome off. On to the next part.
build out
THE NECK
Glue pieces 8 and 9 together. Build a 15/16” extension off of
the top of the front tip, aligned with the separation line. With a
squeegee putty the surfaces, and fill in the docking ports. Do not
get putty in the photon exhaust (rear bottom). Clean out only
the six windows on the photon tube assembly quickly. Using
your scriber scribe out only the top hull separation line (fig. 9).
Do not follow this around the front, but extend it straight out. Figure 9: The neck is pretty decent, but build out
this front area and fit it flush to the dish.
Scribe out the short diagonal line and connect it to the top line.
When dry, wet sand until glass smooth like the other pieces.
Using your 5/32 drill bit, make two new docking ports, one putty around the rear edges to achieve a “solid” look.
on either side of the photon assembly, in the filled hole. Take a Cut off the little tabs on the back of pc. 10, on the front put
5/16” wide piece of tape and place it vertically 7/16” behind the two big globs of putty on the two squares. When this is dry, carve
very tip of the photon assembly. This is the vertical engineering the putty in the shape of the new photon tubes (fig. 10). Don’t
shaft marker. Totally clean out the six lower windows, and drill glue this in now. Drill two holes beside the photon exhaust on
new windows according to the marker, in the same configuration either side with a tiny bit.
as before.
Using the patterns provided, make two new impulse engine THE SECONDARY HULL
intercoolers (see painting section). Scribe the lines on with a Glue pcs. 11 and 12 into 13 and 14. You may want to make
scriber, then glue them on over the old ‘coolers. You may need to some extra reinfocement on these parts, there is a lot of stress on

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 8

 field energy sensors should be scribed around also, with the rear
end of it protruding into the deflector grid. The forward vertical
deflector grid line extends around the entire hull. Quickly clean
out the round windows only. Sand the surface glass smooth.
Drill out the two docking ports using the 5/32” drill bit.
Scribe the new bottom deflector grid line so it is parallel to the
others. You will then have to make a curved line to connect the
bottom line to the upper corner. Using the tiny drill bit, clean
out the round windows, and drill new oval windows. Beside the
warp pylon base drill a hole on the interior side with a tiny bit,
center it along the base.
Glue the two halves together, and putty the seam line. Sand.
Figure 10: Photon Torpedo launch tubes. The cen-
Glue the shuttle bay doors in.
ter detail nurnie should be more like two pointed
triangular planes. The navigational deflector piece (which screws in) needs no
work, but if you are good at casting pieces, make a new piece
them to hold the warp engines. Use a drill bit to open up the 12 with a deeper dish. Maybe even go all out and make it clear! Do
windows on the bottom of the hull. Use a square file to make the not glue this piece in.
12 windows square, leaving a thin as possible separation between
each. WARP ENGINE PYLONS
Use your squeegee to putty the entire surface of the halves Glue 17, 18, 19, and 20 together. Putty the surfaces, but do
except: around the warp engine pylons bases, the eight maneu- not get any in the vents. Putty the front and rear connecting
vering thrusters on the top (four each side). Do not scribe out seams (not inside the vents). Sand smooth. Make sure you shape
the bottom deflector grid line rear half (from the 3 on 2 windows the front and rear vent ports like rectangles with rounded ends.
back), and the middle deflector grid line in the triangular grid
piece. Do scribe out the lines formed by the upper inserted piece,
but lightly. The forward vertical line should be in alignment
with the forward vertical of the deflector grid, and the space

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 9

THE WARP ENGINES PAINTING THE ENTERPRISE
Glue 21, 22, 23, and 24 together. Cut the bumps off the rear The Enterprise’s paint scheme is rather unique. The different
top of the engines and off of the intercoolers. Putty the surfaces panel colors are actually representing different types of metal
of the warp engines, except for the intercoolers and the flux used in the ship. The original Enterprise was painted with a heat
chillers (lined). Sand the surfaces till smooth. Retain the same resistant coating, but the newer shields could resist heat better,
shapes on all surfaces, but on the top make another “hump” with and many top Star Fleet officials liked the intricate pattern of
the putty. In the front, square out the intakes on the bottom hues on the new ships.
edge. On pcs. 25, cut off the extra tab on the rear, then glue The ship is overall a “pristine white” (white + silver) with
them in the front of each engine, and putty around the horizon- many different shades of white/grey/green. Do not rush the
tal bar. Take your time especially with the engines, because of painting, but don’t poke either; I have found that drafting tape,
their complex shape. With a tiny drill bit drill two holes below if let sit too long will deposit adhesives on the paint and look
the frontal intakes.

PUTTING IT TOGETHER
Glue the neck onto the secondary hull, making absolutely
sure that it does not lean to one side; and lean will be amplified
when the dish is attached. Putty in the very corners of the pho-
ton/secondary hull seam. Build this into a 90 degree angle.
Glue the warp pylons onto the secondary hull. Test the angle
of lean several times holding the warp engine, pylon, and hull
together. File the pylon inserts down if needed so the warp
engines will sit upright, and not sag or lean.

Access hatches every segment, proper decal

placement. Aluminum squares on the dark ring
around the obs deck.

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 10

very bad. I have written the directions as I painted them, but between the front sets of windows in the VIP lounge inner rib.
you may want to rearrange the order to suit your working style.
I have created some painting guides, later in this document. 4. Paint a vertical stripe on the neck where the tape was, a stripe
They are not the last word in painting and designs. I have simply on each of the pylons on the interior, and a large area on the top
attempted to catch the spirit and general direction of the pan- of the secondary hull, around the front to the bottom, and on
elling. You can adjust the size, density, or hues of the patterns as the nav. deflector piece with XF 21 sky (greenish) (see painting
you like. Try not to make the colors too pronounced either, from section). Mask these over and cut out the areas to be dark green.
the distance you will normally view the ship, it should seem Put a few drops of black X 18 into your airbrushing bottle of XF
mostly white, with only barely discernable variation. Only close 21 sky. Paint the dark green. Take off the mask and reapply a full
up examination should reveal how colored the ship really is. mask for the all of green sections.
Lastly, there is no diagram for the dish. Use the Aztec pat-
terns and around the edges of the hull, randomize some squares. 5. Touch up the areas oversprayed by the green with XF 54. Cut
There is a bottom sensor dome painting guide, and you can use three 34” long pieces of frisket, 1/16” wide. Wrap them around
the same type of radial/square pattern on the top around the VIP the edge of the dish to form three evenly spaced, parallel lines.
lounge area.

1. Paint entire ship grey (primer coat) XF 54.

2. Paint warp flux chillers, warp intakes, pylon intakes and vents
(these are not the grilles on the sides of the pylons) X 18 black.
Mask with drafting tape.

3. Paint front of warp engines, pylon flush vents, front of pylons,

impulse intercoolers, and warp intercoolers (very rear of engine,
they look like the imp. coolers) XF 66, blue-grey. Mask with
drafting tape. Hand paint the interior rib of the VIP lounge XF
66. Using XF 16 flat aluminum, paint three sets of two squares

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 11

They should reach around to the impulse engines. Mask the
shapes beside the shuttle bay doors.
6. Paint the entire ship XF 2 flat white. This coat should not be
totally white, it should be almost pale greyish (figs. D-H). Before
your last coat of white, take the masks off of the XF 66 areas and
dust them over to tone down the grey slightly. Mask the VIP
lounge inner rib and windows. Use the masking guides and
frisket all areas to stay flat white 1.
7. Paint the entire ship XF 2 flat white, this time a true white
should be reached. Frisket all areas to stay flat white 2 according
to the guides. Hand paint the bridge sensor dome and the lower
Shuttle bay doors detail
sensor dome sky blue.
of sky blue in all the window holes except the eight square win-
8. Paint the entire ship X 2 gloss white + a few drops of X 11 dows on the starboard aft of the dish: paint these black.
chrome silver making gloss pristine white. Just before you paint
the last coat of pristine white, remove the masks over the engi- 10. Cut all but 1/32” of the pins off the top of them. Using a
neering sections and dust them over to tone down the green. medium Dremel grinding bit shallow out 12 phaser positions on
When dry remove all masks promptly. the dish and 2 at the end of the dorsal detail line above the shut-
tle bay. Super glue these in place facing up, away, and at a 45
9. Mask around the impulse deflection crystal and navigational degree angle from the deflector line it sits on. Paint the phasers
deflector. Set your AB nozzle to the thinnest possible line and and the squares they sit on Polly S earth yellow. Paint the metal
paint sky blue. When dry, use a round ended knife and lightly pin stub XF 54 grey. On the upper phasers outline the box with a
scrape away the blue paint on the ridges inside the nav. deflector thin red line (use a 10/0 brush for this). Paint the triangular
so they are white. Hand paint the domes on top of the warp thrusters on the dish earth yellow, down to where they meet the
engines sky blue. Use a 10/0 brush to paint the second ring on set of three hull lines. Use a 5/0 brush with regular yellow to
the nav. def. blue, in the proper sequence. Paint three horizontal paint on two small rectangles on the edge of the thruster, and
lines on the grey panel beside the shuttle bay doors. Put a drop drop a bead of yellow inside the holes on the top and bottom for

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 12

 12. Mask off four squares on the nav. def. piece, paint them earth
yellow, with two yellow rectangles in them. Paint the blob under
the shuttle bay earth yellow, and put a red dot on it.

13. Paint the photon exhaust X 18, and the photon tubes and
back plate flat black, with the tube ridges gloss black, and the
interior red. Glue this in now. In the impulse exhaust, first paint
it black, then paint in some orange-red, but don’t completely
cover the black around the edges. On the lower sensor dome,
paint black inside the drilled out squares and around the hull
illumination lights.

14. Put drops of red paint at the previous position of bumps cut
The hull coloring. Mine is a little too vibrant here. off, to simulate running lights (warp engines, dish, bottom of
secondary hull). Use red to simulate tractor beam emitters above
light simulation. Paint the outside corner of the warp intercooler shuttle bay doors.
(the white one) with earth yellow, putting a rectangle of yellow
on the outside, and a dot on top and bottom. Cut 2 small squares 15. Make a mask and put it on the bottom of the warp engine
out of paper and glue the to the port side of the dish to simulate hold section and hand paint it with XF 16 flat aluminum.
access doors. Paint the entire door unit earth yellow, with a ver- 16. With a knife, scribe the engineering separation lines on the
tical yellow stripe one either side of the door. pylons and neck. Hand paint on the 16 little squares on either
side of the warp pylon engineering section XF 21 sky.
11. Paint the small square under the photon tubes flat tan. Mask
a thin ring around the end of the nav. deflector piece, and paint 17. Hand paint XF 66 blue-grey around the warp engine flux
it flat tan. Also to be flat tan are the eight maneuvering thrusters chiller first stage.
on the top of the secondary hull.
18. Mix 2 parts rubber, 1 part copper, and 1 part flat black
together. Use this to paint the flux chiller first stage.

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 13

FINISHING UP From your second decal sheet, cut the word Enterprise from
Glue the warp engines on the pylons (make sure they sit decal 3. Cut a slit going halfway down the decal between each
straight). Epoxy the dish onto the neck. You may need to trim letter. Place the decal on the lip under the shuttle bay doors.
the impulse ‘coolers for this. Make sure the dish sits perpendicu- Using the thin red decal strips, closely outline the VIP lounge
lar to the neck. Putty around the seams if necessary to achieve a rib. Use decal set and take your time, straight decals don’t bend
crisp corner. Repaint the areas if needed. Make a rectangular too easily. Put a red stripe above and below the saucer separation
mask that extends from the impulse ‘coolers to the edge of the line on the neck piece.
deflector grid on the dish. Paint this XF 66 blue-grey. Put drops
of Micro-Kleer in all the windows, even VIP lounge and botani- WORKING WITH FRISKET
cal garden (on bottom of secondary hull). When cutting the frisket patterns for the dish sections,
You will need to paint some XF 66 along the edge of the always use a sharp, new blade. Cut mostly with the tip only, and
impulse coolers, and extend it all the way to the front of the do not overcut into the next section. The 1/4 of the pie deflector
neck. A square is painted on the dish that goes to grid line 1. grid frisket pattern provided can mask 1/2 of the saucer, so copy
Apply all decals using decal set. for the large NCC-1701-A this page at a 1:1 ratio (don’t enlarge or reduce). Don’t overcut,
on the dish, cut all the letters apart separately and trim off the make all corners crisp so you can use the “discarded” part of the
excess decal plastic. The top NCC-1701-A should be placed on pattern for the next slice of pie. Cut only two to four squares at a
the third deflector ring out, not the second, as shown in the time, immediately sticking the excess frisket in its new position.
directions. The bottom is placed on the third also. Cut the Putting frisket on and taking it off is a very time consuming job,
boomerang shape out of decals 9 and 10 before applying, and but well worth it. Apply frisket and paint the same day, then
when the decals are dry, paint the area in with XF 54. Decals 6 take it off within 48 hours.
and 7 should be placed on either side of the access door and
docking port on the dish. The decal that reads “Starship USS
Enterprise” should be placed to the left of each port. Now that
your docking ports are smaller decals 5 will not fit properly.
Either cut out the excess decal between arcs or paint on the lines
yourself. In either case, use a 10/0 brush to paint on the tiny
words on both sides of the ports: NCC-1701-A (port) Enterprise.

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 14

Painting Guide Section

Hey now, it’s that famous

Aztec pattern. You’ll have
to print this out and
enlarge or reduce it to fit.
The overall pattern also
should have some varia-
tion in it, so you can use a
randomizing geometric
effect. The other parts of
the ship also use the ran-
domizing square and rec-
tangles, depending on the
shape of the hull.

Zoom in real close and

the detail is excellent...

Aztec Pattern

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 15

 Neck

NCC-1701 ENTERPRISE

Lower Sensor Dome

NCC-1701 ENTERPRISE

STARSHIP U.S.S. ENTERPRISE - UNITED FEDERATION OF PLANETS

PRISTINE WHITE
OFF WHITE 1
OFF WHITE 2
DK ENGINEERING GREEN
Secondary Hull
LT ENGINEERING GREEN
ALUMINUM/SILVER
EARTH BROWN
Zoom in real close and YELLOW/LIGHTS
LT BLUE GREY
the detail is excellent... BLUE GREY
DK BLUE GREY
Painting Guide For Hull Sections RUBBER
BLACK

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 16

Warp Pylon Outer Warp Pylon Inner

NCC-1701-A
UNITED FEDERATION OF PLANETS

Warp Engine
PRISTINE WHITE
OFF WHITE 1
OFF WHITE 2
DK ENGINEERING GREEN
LT ENGINEERING GREEN
ALUMINUM/SILVER
EARTH BROWN
Zoom in real close and YELLOW/LIGHTS
the detail is excellent... LT BLUE GREY
BLUE GREY
DK BLUE GREY
Painting Guide For Hull Sections RUBBER
BLACK

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 17

MEET CHRIS PAVEGLIO
Chris’s love of space and science fiction started at four when
his parents took him to see “Star Wars”. His neighbor introduced
him to Star Trek at eleven, and he’s been an avid Trekker ever
since. He says, “I like Star Trek because there is so much back-
ground information. Every aspect of the entire universe is
thought out.” Chris has built models of every form of transporta-
tion, but enjoys starships the most because of their majestic look.
For the future Chris plans on building a USS Excelsior model in
scale with the Enterprise, and eventually an entire fleet of Star
Trek ships.
Hey that’s pretty heavy stuff there. Now I am 25, and I
haven’t built a whole fleet of ships. I am a graphic designer, and
am getting into 3D graphics. I’ve built the original Enterprise in
Lightwave and am doing animations with it. I am so proud that
many modelers consider me an expert on the E, and its details. I
hope this article can help you out. There’s many small details to
be looked at and fixed... I just paid attention to as many as I
could. If you want to make any corrections to my masterpiece
here, send me an email and I will update this article when it
warrants.
To all of you, us- Thank you for your support and let us keep
the faith and frienship of Star Trek alive.

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 18

 NCC-1701-A
UNITED FEDERATION OF PLANETS

STARSHIP USS ENTERPRISE N

C
E
N
T
UNITED FEDERATION OF PLANETS
C E
- R
1 P
7 R
I
0 S
1 E

STARSHIP U.S.S. ENTERPRISE - UNITED FEDERATION OF PLANETS

Zoom in real close and

the detail is excellent...

Bibliography and Credits:

Star Fleet Assembly Manual, by Paul Matthew Newitt; PMN Designs; Davis, CA, 1983

Mr. Scott’s Guide To The Enterprise, Shane Johnson; Pocket Books, 1987

Original printing of article by FineScale Modeler, Kalmbach Publishing; Waukesha, WI, 1992

“Star Trek” films, Paramount Pictures; Hollywood, CA, 1979-1990

Enterprise Cutaway Poster, David Kimble; 1986

Photos by Chris Paveglio, additional photos by Kalmbach Publishing, illustrations by Chris Paveglio

Thanks to all you who have supported me, inquired about the article, wrote me, posted web-site link, and/or have simply read and
learned from the article. Much thanks to my friend John Nissley, Jr. who introduced me to the universe of Star Trek. Thanks to my
9th grade English teacher William Snyder, who gave me encouragement to finish up this article and submit it (despite his initial
skeptism that I could be published). I hear he still tells his classes about my article. Thanks to my more than best friend Mandi Rae,
for all her support for everything!! Thanks to Steve Jobs and Apple Computer, my favorite computers! Nothing they can’t do for me.
Last but not least, Mom and Dad, all your support is greatly appreciated.

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 19

©2000 Chris Paveglio

Accurizing the U.S.S. Enterprise ➤ BACK NEXT ➤ 20