EC 1124

Revised January 1997

$1.50

Logging
Felling and Bucking Techniques
for Woodland Owners
J. Garland and D. Jackson

S
Contents kills in felling and bucking timber are useful for many
Clothing and Equipment ...................2 woodland owners. Safe and effective use of chain saws
Chain saws ....................................2 promotes efficiency in thinnings, salvage operations,
Timber Felling Plans .........................2 hardwood removals, firewood gathering, and full-scale
Evaluating Tree Felling Conditions ..3 harvesting operations. However, chain saws are dangerous! Do not
Hazardous conditions ...................3 use them without adequate skills and preparation, including physi-
Danger trees ..................................3
Assessing the Tree .............................3 cal conditioning and experience in chain saw use and maintenance.
Escape Path .......................................4 This publication is not an in-depth felling and bucking skills
Tree Felling .......................................4 manual. Rather, it’s a guide to basic principles and procedures for
Sighting direction-of-fall ..............4 inexperienced timber cutters. Its intent is to help you improve your
Matching saw cuts ........................4 basic skills in manual timber felling and bucking techniques. This
Undercuts ......................................5
Conventional undercuts ............5
publication does not cover all state or federal rules that may apply
Humboldt undercuts .................. 6 to felling and bucking.
Open-face undercuts .................7 Proper felling and bucking also can affect timber values and
Back cut ........................................ 7 revenue received from timber sales. These topics are covered only
Bucking Procedures ..........................8 briefly in this publication, and are discussed in greater detail in
Hazards during Bucking ....................9 other publications (see “For Further Reading,” page 16).
Springpoles ........................................ 9
Chainsaw Reaction Forces ............. 10 A good approach to skills development involves first under-
Limbing .......................................... 11 standing basic principles. Many are outlined in this publication, in
Problem Trees ................................ 12 chain saw operator manuals, and in other references.
Multiple stems ........................... 12
Leaning trees ............................. 12
Correcting for moderate lean . 13
Felling against the lean .............. 13
Hangups ..................................... 14
Summary Checklist ........................ 15
For Further Reading ....................... 16
OSU Extension publications ..... 16 John J. Garland, Extension timber harvesting specialist, and David J. Jackson,
Other publications ..................... 16 Extension timber harvesting specialist; Oregon State University.
 You can develop skills for effec- Chain saws useful particularly for thinning
tive chain saw operation by cutting The chain saw should be modern operations or partial cuts. In small
timber that is already on the ground. and in good repair. Do not attempt a timber, either tops or butts of trees
This practice also will help improve task as dangerous as felling trees with may face the skid trail.
bucking skills. a poorly functioning saw. Check your Trees felled out-of-lead typically
Consider arranging practice chain saw for the following: are angled 90 degrees or more away
sessions with experienced timber • The chain saw should be equipped from the skidding direction. During
cutters to learn felling techniques for with a chain brake that functions as skidding, felled timber must be pulled
standing timber. Start with live, small, the manufacturer intended. toward the desired direction of travel.
straight trees of sound, green wood. If you must swing timber into a skid
Ordinarily, if problems occur, small • The length of the bar should not be trail, it can badly scar standing trees
trees will not require the use of excessively long (i.e., not much or crush young regeneration. Safety
mechanized equipment. greater than the diameter of the also can be jeopardized when timber
Never work alone with a chain trees you expect to cut). is pivoted toward the direction of
saw! Always have someone nearby to • The chain should be sharpened travel.
provide immediate assistance should correctly. Correct sharpening will In a clearcut operation, arrange the
an accident occur. ensure straight cuts and removal of cutting pattern so trees are felled into
wood “chips” rather than sawdust. the open area rather than into standing
You may find a saw equipped with timber. When standing timber is
Clothing and saw dogs (sharp, pointed teeth brushed by falling trees, limbs or tops
attached to the saw housing near the may be broken and propelled back-
Equipment base of the bar) easier to control. ward toward the cutter. They also may
You must have the tools and hang dangerously overhead and fall
supplies necessary for your job. unexpectedly.
Protective clothing and equipment for In thinning operations, fell trees
safe and productive timber felling and
Timber Felling Plans into openings. Pay special attention to
bucking include the following: The way you fell timber influences overhead hazards. Work up the hill
• Hardhat (protective helmet) skidding or yarding activities. Make and across the slope to minimize
felling and skidding plans before hazards from logs or trees sliding or
• Eye protection (screens, glasses, or cutting begins (Figure 1). A planned rolling toward you.
goggles) system of skid trails, combined with
• Hearing protection (ear muffs or proper felling-to-lead, can greatly
plugs) help skidding timber to an access
• Safety chaps or special pants road. Use colored
containing protective inserts flagging to mark skid
trails before skidding
• Gloves operations begin.
• Boots (caulked boots provide more “Designated skid
secure footing and are preferred by trails” will help
professionals) protect your residual
• Comfortable clothing (loose fitting, stand and soil by
cuffless pants) limiting machine
travel to specific
• First aid kit
il

areas.
tra
id

• Fire extinguisher “Lead” refers to

Sk

planned, directional Sk
• 3–5 lb axe (for pounding wedges id
and cleaning out the undercut) cutting of timber. For tra
il
either ground-based
• Saw gas, bar oil, and lubrication
skidding or cable
(for the tip of the bar)
yarding, trees “felled-
• Wedges (soft plastic) to-lead” are angled
Haul road

• Chain file with handle and proper approximately 30 to

filing guide, plus gauges to check 45 degrees to either
filing results side of the skid trail or
skyline cableway.
• Plumb line (string with a weight at
Timber felled using
the end to provide a vertical line for
this procedure
determining lean of a tree)
resembles a herring-
• Peavey or chain (to free hangups) bone pattern. This
Trees felled
pattern reduces timber out of lead
breakage and damage
to the remaining stand.
This felling pattern is Figure 1.—A planned felling pattern (not to scale).

2
Evaluating Tree Assessing the Tree
Felling Conditions A careful evaluation of felling
conditions will guide you in making
Hazardous conditions felling cuts. Assess potential hazards
Under some conditions, timber to determine whether or not assistance
felling should be considered unsafe. is needed. For each tree to be felled,
Such conditions involve weather, beginning cutters should go through a
terrain, and operator skill. When mental checklist containing items
unsafe conditions exist, inexperienced similar to those listed at the close of
cutters should either seek assistance this publication (see “Summary
from a professional or postpone Checklist,” page 15). Failure to
activities. Under these conditions, recognize a key piece of information
professionals can minimize risks that could threaten your safety.
may create life-threatening conditions Always begin the felling process
for beginners. by determining tree lean. You are
Unsafe conditions include the inviting disaster by cutting a tree
following: without evaluating its lean. The lean
• Light, intermittent wind may be of each tree is unique. Do not assume
sufficient to tip a tree in the wrong you can assess the direction a tree
direction or cause other problems at naturally will fall simply by looking
the stump. If tree tops are moving, at it. For example, trees growing on
do not attempt to fell timber. slopes often lean downhill. Even trees
that appear to lean uphill may be
• Fog hampers vision upward into straight or lean slightly downhill.
the tree crown. Detached limbs and Figure 2.—Determining the lean with
a plumb line. You can estimate the amount of
tree lean can be obscured. If the lean using a plumb line made from a
direction-of-fall is not visible, small weight and a piece of string
someone could enter a danger area (Figure 2). By looking at the tree’s
without being seen. often require specific cutting
lean from at least two sides at right
techniques.
• Snow and ice may cause limbs, angles, you can determine the
heavy bark, or tree tops to fall • Trees with brittle or rotten heart- direction of natural fall.
suddenly. wood may require the attention of First, stand uphill and to the side of
an experienced cutter. Alder, the tree. Then, assess the tree’s lean
maple, and madrone often have from right angles to that position. If
Danger trees
these characteristics. the natural lean is toward the chosen
Trees that present special felling
• Utility lines, buildings, steep direction-of-fall, use standard cutting
hazards are termed “danger trees.”
slopes, or trees whose length will techniques. If the natural lean is away
Skills and experience beyond those of
allow them to cross roads can from the desired direction-of-fall,
a beginner are required to fell these
cause special problems. Profession- special cutting techniques will be
trees. Some kinds of danger trees
als use cutting techniques, wedges, needed.
include the following:
hydraulic rams, cables attached to Another factor that influences
• Standing dead or rotten trees machinery, and their expertise to direction-of-fall is the pattern of
constitute a serious hazard to your solve problems. limbs. Limb loading can result from a
safety. Such trees are referred to as large limb growing on one side of the
snags. Snags are beneficial for As an inexperienced cutter,
exercise caution when attempting to tree. This condition will cause a tree
various bird and mammal species. to be pulled out-of-lead as it falls.
After they fall, snags decompose, fell or buck timber unfamiliar to you.
If you are unsuccessful, your attempt Limbs from adjacent trees may
further enriching soil nutrients. interlock, making it difficult to start a
may cause additional danger to the
However, snags often have professional ultimately responsible for tree’s fall in the desired direction.
problems with rot, heavy bark, and felling the danger tree. Specific cutting techniques can
loose limbs. Wind can cause snags In preparation for all felling overcome problems related to limbs
to topple without warning. Snags operations, you must determine a as well as to lean.
can react unpredictably when clear direction-of-fall. If you cannot As you examine a tree for lean and
standard cutting techniques are make this determination, leave the limb loading, look for loose limbs
used. Due to their deteriorated tree standing until you obtain assis- hanging overhead. Loose bark also
condition, snags should be felled tance. can be a hazard. Snags and trees with
only by an experienced cutter. Mark any potentially hazardous overhead hazards are particularly
• Trees with “pistol butts” are found tree with highly visible, colored dangerous. Saw vibration or tree
on slumps and slides. Their distinct flagging (special “danger tree” movement can release the objects,
shape results from not achieving flagging is available). This warning causing them to crash downward.
normal vertical growth, and they will alert others to the presence of a If you plan to cut such trees, arrange
danger tree. for an additional person to watch

3
 cuts are planned. When boring, Escape Path
maintain firm saw control to prevent
chain saw kickback. Clear at least one escape path for
Make your cuts parallel with the each tree you plan to fell (Figure 5).
direction-of-fall, and assess the chips A clear, unobstructed path will enable
or sawdust produced. Sawdust from you to move quickly to a safe position
rotten wood is quite different from after dropping the saw at the tree
chips produced from sound wood. As stump. Your path should be angled
an exercise, cut into logs known to 45 degrees backward and away from
contain rotten wood and examine their the direction-of-fall. Because many
sawdust. felling accidents occur to cutters who
Figure 4 indicates additional remain within 15 feet of the stump,
factors you should consider when clear an escape path greater than this
evaluating a tree to be felled. For trees distance. The path should be free of
that have butt swell, make felling cuts brush and other obstacles.
far enough into the tree to penetrate Sometimes, obstacles located
beyond the swelled area. This around the base of a tree may obstruct
distance will equal a projection of the your escape or create awkward felling
upper bole downward into the butt positions. Normally, stumps are cut as
swell. Snow break, prior damage, low to the ground as possible. How-
double trunks, or physical differences ever, if obstacles jeopardize your
among various tree species can safety, you may need to cut higher
Hidden rot stumps. This practice will allow you
weaken trees, affecting your cutting
procedures. to maintain a standing position
necessary for escaping quickly.
Beginning cutters should seek
professional assistance if rocks,
multiple stems growing from one
Figure 3.—Boring the stump to detect stump, steep slopes, difficult terrain,
the presence of rot. or other obstacles hinder a quick
escape. An escape route can be
critical if a tree does not fall as
overhead and warn of hazards while planned.
you attend to responsibilities at the
stump.
Always determine if rot is present
where your felling cuts will be made. Tree Felling
Controlling a tree during felling
requires that cuts be made in sound Sighting direction-of-fall
wood. Felling cuts made in areas Chain saw handles are designed to
containing rot can cause a tree to split be used as a sighting mechanism.
or shatter, with serious results for the Saws with curved handles have “sight
timber faller. marks” imprinted on the saw housing.
Expect to find rot in standing dead When making your undercut, sighting
trees. Fungal fruiting bodies known as down the handle of the saw or the
conks also indicate rot. Tree species sight marks will allow you to “aim” a
such as hemlock, true firs, cedar, and tree toward its desired direction-of-
some hardwoods are known to contain fall. Become familiar with your
stump rot. particular equipment and its sighting
If rotten wood is present, compen- accuracy. Check where the tree falls
sate for it by leaving extra sound in relation to the sight of your saw.
wood. As another alternative, you
may want to consider changing the Matching saw cuts
direction-of-fall. Before making any undercut, it’s
Trees suspected of containing rot vital to understand the importance of
may be bored using the saw bar to matching saw cuts. In order to control
determine if rot is present. While a tree’s intended direction-of-fall, you
maintaining the saw bar in a vertical must make felling cuts that do not
plane, make a boring cut by pushing overlap. Ideally, your cuts will match
the saw bar directly into the tree perfectly. As a tree tips toward its
stump within the area suspected of desired direction-of-fall, cuts matched
containing rot (Figure 3). These cuts properly will close uniformly along
will not weaken the tree if they are their line of intersection.
made below the point where felling Figure 4.—Evaluate tree to be felled.

4
 If your cuts do not match, the
differential rate at which an undercut
closes dramatically alters a tree’s
direction-of-fall (Figure 6). You may
lose directional control. The tree
could split vertically, creating extreme
danger for the cutter. Figure 7
indicates how forces from a falling
tree are redirected when an undercut

all
does not close uniformly, creating a

f-f
“barber chair.”

n-o
To ensure matching cuts, use a

tio
rec
heavy crayon to sketch the shape and

Di
location of your undercut. Mark your
intentions with your axe (Figure 8).
Beginning cutters always should have
another person on the opposite side of
the tree to alert the cutter if correc-
tions are needed.

Undercuts
Once you understand matching
cuts, the first step in felling any tree is Escape route 45°
to make an undercut near the tree’s
base. An undercut allows a tree to be
guided toward a preferred direction-
Escape route
of-fall. To make an undercut, follow
the instructions below to remove a
wedge of wood whose width and Figure 5.—Clear, unobstructed escape paths needed.
volume are compatible with the tree’s
size and your cutting technique.
In order to effectively complete an
undercut, your saw should be
equipped with saw dogs to help grip
Uniform versus
and hold the saw’s position. Using uneven undercuts
saw dogs, you can maintain constant
contact between the saw bar and the
wood being cut. Saw slippage will be
reduced, and your personal safety will
be improved. As an undercut is made,
the saw is rotated around the base of a
tree. With each new saw position, the
saw is pivoted, allowing the dogs to
bite deeply into the tree bark.
Uniform and Slanted and
Three types of undercuts com- level cut uneven cut. . .
monly are used for felling timber— the unequal pressure will cause
the conventional, the Humboldt, and tree to fall out of lead.
the open-face undercuts (Figure 9a,b,c).
Conventional undercuts. The
conventional undercut is accepted
worldwide and is the easiest method
for beginners to learn. Select a
direction-of-fall and make a horizon-
tal cut at right angles to your intended
direction-of-fall, sighting with your 2
handle or saw’s sight marks. The
depth of this cut should be one-fourth
to one-third of the tree’s diameter Cut hinge
(Figure 9d). 1
wood
Angle the next cut so it meets the
deepest point of the horizontal cut If cuts do not match, the hinge wood
exactly at both corners. In so doing, a is cut away
wedge of wood will be cut free. When Figure 6.—Cuts must match properly.

5
 a. Conventional b. Humboldt c. Open-face

Direction-of-fall

1
⁄5 to 1⁄3 tree diameter
d. Depth of undercut

Figure 9—(a, b, and c) Types of undercuts; (d) Depth of undercut, and using an
axe to check direction-of-fall.

45° top and bottom cuts

that match. Depth about
1
⁄5 tree diameter.
Figure 7.—Barber chair from mis-
matched cuts.

Saw guide mark

aligned with
direction-of-fall

Desired hinge

Face cut Sight

line
Direction-of-
fall

Sight
line
Marked point with
crayon or axe
Figure 8.—Mark intentions to be sure Figure 10.—Sight down open cut to help match lower cut.
cuts match.

making your undercut, try to create a the undercut, and use it as a device to used when felling medium to large
vertical opening approximately one- sight the desired direction-of-fall. timber. The horizontal cut of the
fourth the tree’s diameter. After some Since the tree won’t fall in the desired Humboldt undercut is made similar to
practice, you may be able to anchor direction if it isn’t aligned to do so, the conventional undercut. Unlike the
the saw at the near point and match make corrections to the cuts as conventional method, the wedge of
your cuts with greater accuracy. needed. wood removed using the Humboldt is
Once the cuts match, chop out the Humboldt undercuts. An under- taken from the stump instead of the
wedge with your axe. After removing cut popular in the west is the butt log.
the wedge of wood, place your saw in Humboldt undercut. It generally is

6
 Open-face undercuts. The open- Back cut
face undercut combines features of A back cut is made horizontally. It
the conventional and the Humboldt. is the final cut that causes the tree to
The wedge of wood removed using fall. The back cut is approximately
the open-face undercut comes from 1 inch higher than the undercut. When
both the butt log and the stump. The making your back cut on sloping
open-face cut originated in the Nordic ground, always work from the uphill
countries and is used for felling small, side of the tree.
straight trees. Do not use saw dogs Before you begin to make the back
when making the open-face undercut cut, stop your saw and give a warning
or back cut. call. Indicate clearly your intended
Make an open-face undercut as direction-of-fall. If other people are in Hinge wood cut off
follows. After sighting the tree’s the vicinity, do not proceed with the
intended direction-of-fall, start with back cut until definite communica-
the top cut first. Keep the saw tion, indicating a safe position, has
horizontal while the angled cut is been established.
made. To make the top cut, cut As the back cut is made, do not
downward at a 45-degree angle. Then allow it to intersect the undercut.
sight down the top cut to make sure Instead, you should leave an unbroken
the bottom cut will exactly meet at the hinge of uncut wood between the
intended angle (Figure 10). To make undercut and back cut. This uncut
the bottom cut, cut upward at a wood allows you to control the tree’s
45-degree angle. When cuts at the speed and direction-of-fall. A hori-
bottom and top intersect, they will zontal back cut whose hinge width is
form a 90-degree angle. 1 to 1.5 inches should be adequate for
The depth of your cuts should controlling trees whose stump diameter
equal about one-fifth the tree’s is less than 24 inches (Figure 11).
diameter. It’s important that the top If the tree’s diameter is sufficient,
and bottom cuts match and are not insert a falling wedge in the back cut
overcut at their corners. as soon as possible to prevent the tree

Figure 12.—Overcutting the back cut.

from sitting back on your saw bar.

Wedges also can be very useful for
Direction- correcting tree lean.
of-fall Make your back cut moderately
1"
fast so that wood from the falling tree
is not pulled from the stump or butt
Wedge
log. Continue quickly before unex-
1
1"–1 ⁄2" pected winds adversely influence your
hinge intended direction-of-fall. Check
wood
frequently to make sure your back cut
is progressing satisfactorily. Take
care to avoid cutting off the corners of
your hinge wood. Overcutting the
1"–11⁄2" back cut can alter a tree’s direction-
hinge of-fall (Figure 12). Glance frequently
wood
into the tree crown to check for
hazards overhead.
As the tree begins to fall, remove
the saw from the cut and immediately
drop it behind the stump. Proceed
quickly along your predetermined
Hinge wood escape path. Retrieve your saw after
breaks as the tree is on the ground.
tree falls Small trees may require that the
back cut be made before the undercut.
This will enable you to better accom-
plish directional felling by first
Figure 11.—Making the back cut. placing a wedge in the tree. Practice

7
this technique with an experienced Wood in tension
cutter before attempting it on your
own.
Occasionally, you may wish to fell
a tree whose diameter is greater than
the length of your saw bar. Under
such circumstances, the back cut must
be made utilizing a series of cuts
(Figure 13). Utilizing a series of cuts
preserves the strength of the hinge
wood until the final cut is made. As
you make the series of cuts, wedges
may be needed to maintain control of
the tree.
Wood in compression

Bucking Procedures Figure 14.—Wood in tension and compression.

Bucking involves cutting trees into
log segments whose lengths are
specified by mill requirements, The concept of cutting compression The term “bind” is used to indicate
including trim. Buckers should make wood is illustrated in Figure 15a,b,c. the location of compression wood.
cuts square to the logs, correctly Generally, cutting compression wood Bucking principles and procedures
measure log length, and maintain log first allows a log to move in the described previously also apply to
value. You must carefully evaluate direction of tension. Gravity also will trees lying in a horizontal bind.
each bucking situation. When act on trees during bucking, causing When bucking large timber, you
bucking, maintain a safe working them to roll, slide, or fall. sometimes must make a number of
position on the uphill side of bucked It may be difficult to evaluate cuts in order to release the tension
logs. correctly the exact location of wood. As tension wood is cut, it is not
The first consideration in safe log compression wood and tension wood. uncommon for wood beneath the cut
bucking is to determine the direction Therefore, always keep an axe and to break away.
log segments will move after the cut wedges available for releasing a When bucking smaller logs, two
is completed. You can make this pinched saw bar. cuts normally will be adequate. The
determination by following one basic
principle: “cut the compression wood
first.” Top bind Bottom bind
The position of the tree creates
internal forces in wood fibers. Figure 14
illustrates the difference between
compression wood and tension wood.
Compression wood is located along 2
the inside of a curved or bent piece of
3
wood. In compression wood, wood
fibers are pushed together. Tension 1 3 1
wood is located along the outside of a 2
piece of wood. In tension wood, wood a. b.
fibers are pulled apart.

Wedge cut out

Undercut

Top bind Wood in compression

Wedge 2
5
1 1 2
4 3
7

Wood in tension
3 6

c.

Figure 13.—Using a series of cuts. Figure 15.—Cutting compression wood first.

8
 Direction cut logs first bucking cut will be shallow. It’s
will move intended to sever only a small amount
of compression wood without binding
the saw. A second cut will release the
tension wood.

Hazards during
Bucking
You may encounter several
dangerous situations during log
Safer location inside bucking. On sloping terrain, remem-
bind and on uphill ber to make your final bucking cut
side from the uphill side. This will prevent
bucked logs from rolling downhill
Figure 16—Make final bucking cuts from a safe position. toward the bucker (Figure 16).
Trees sometimes are subject to end
pressure. This occurs when trees lie
along a slope and are supported along
their entire length (Figure 17). After
the first cut is made, you could
become endangered by the upper log
sliding downhill. In order to safely
buck such logs, you must make two
cuts.
The first cut, on the log’s lower
End pressure
half, should be offset and uphill. The
second cut, on the log’s upper half,
should be downhill. Inserting a wedge
will help you keep the upper cut open.
If the logs will not separate, mark
them with brightly colored flagging to
serve as a warning to those doing the
Cut 2
skidding or yarding.
Windfalls cause dangerous
Cut 1 bucking problems and are difficult to
evaluate. Rootwads may act unpre-
dictably when cut away from the
stem. Roots bent underground can
apply pressure, causing a rootwad to
upright itself when cut. An uprighted
rootwad may either roll onto the
bucker or cause the bucked log to
react unpredictably.
Analyze each bucking situation for
its unique circumstances. Assess its
Figure 17—Trees/logs subjected to end pressure. compression/tension wood, potential
for movement, and safe positions
from which to make bucking cuts.

Springpoles
Springpoles are small trees bent
under by larger trees you have already
cut (Figure 18). They are under
extreme tension and can react
unpredictably when improper cutting
methods are used. Attempt to cut a
springpole only if you can reach a
point where a right angle is formed by
Figure 18—Cutting springpoles. the lines of the bent tree.

9
 Chain direction Kickback is one a. Push back
of the major issues
Critical in maintaining safe Chain
angles direction
bucking and
limbing practices. It
is the sudden trans-
Saw movement
ferral to the operator Chain
of uncontrolled chain direction
a.
saw cutting power.
Chain direction
Movement is
Obstacle hit here unpredictable and Chain b. Pull-in
will cause saw may cause serious direction
bar to kick injury or death.
up toward Kickback can occur
operator due to many circum-
Chain
stances. Inaccurately direction
high or low depth Saw movement
gauges, or dull
cutting teeth result
in a poorly main- Figure 20—Pinched chain forces.
tained saw chain.
Saw teeth that fail to cut wood can gauges to help sharpen your chain,
b. cause the saw to kick back. Kickback or have a saw shop do it for you.
also can occur when your cutting • Use low-kickback bar designs and
Figure 19—Avoid chain saw kickback. moves from soft, live wood to hard, anti-kickback chain.
dead wood. Kickback is more likely
If the saw chain becomes pinched,
when cutting with the top quadrant of
the saw may move in the opposite
the saw bar nose.
Note the extreme tension in the direction to chain movement. If the
Figures 19a,b illustrate critical
outer fibers of the tree at this point. top of the bar is pinched, the saw will
angles on a saw bar nose where
Stand in the safest position to the side pushback into the operator. If the
kickback during cutting might be
of the springpole and check where the bottom of the bar is pinched, the saw
more likely. If the nose of the bar
ends of the springpole will move will pull-in, pulling itself and the
strikes an obstacle without cutting it,
when they are cut. Then, make a operator forward (Figure 20a,b).
the saw will kick up and back toward
series of shallow cuts in the compres- To reduce the potential for pinched
the operator.
sion wood opposite the point of chain, always start the cut with the
Many kickback-related injuries
maximum tension. saw chain running at full speed.
could be prevented by the following:
Alternately, you can shave the Watch for compression wood that
• Control the saw using a solid, two- would cause the chain to bind.
compression wood along the same handed grip with thumbs wrapped
area with the side of the saw. Experi- Consider using a wedge to help keep
around the saw handles. the saw cut open.
ence shows this releases some of the
tension, and successive cuts can • Maintain good footing and posi-
continue to release additional tension tions for preventing kickback by
by cutting the compression wood. not standing in line with potential
a.
For larger springpoles, or if there is bar movement. Cut 2
no place to stand while cutting, mark • Know where the tip of the bar is at
them with colored flagging and pull all times.
the trees off with lines from a machine. • Anticipate kickback situations Cut 1 Cut 1
when you are making a boring cut.
Bore at an angle upward or
Cut 2
Chainsaw Reaction downward rather than straight into
the log, and begin boring cuts using
Forces the bottom of the saw bar nose. Cut 2
Chainsaw reaction forces result b.
• Keep track of the kind of wood you
when the power of the rotating chain
are cutting (live versus dead).
is transferred from the action of Cut 1
cutting wood to the saw and the • Maintain the saw’s chain brake.
operator. The common reactive forces However, do not depend on its Cut 3 to
are kickback, pushback, and pull-in. chain-stopping feature alone. clean up stub
Reactive forces may cause the saw to • Sharpen the saw chain according to
move rapidly and unpredictably, or the chain manufacturer’s directions.
cause operators to lose control of the Use the available guides and
saw or to lose their balance. Figure 21—Cutting limbs.

10
Limbing Side Views
Arrows indicate saw movement
Top Views

Limb removal may appear to be 4

relatively simple; however, it is time- 1 3
consuming, and accidents often occur.
You may encounter problems when Arrows 2
limbs supporting the stem cannot be indicate
direction of 1
removed safely. Predicting the
movement
movement of cut limbs can be up the tree
particularly difficult. You must 4
stem
evaluate limbs under pressure to 2
determine the location of compression Foot
positions 3
and tension wood (Figure 21a,b).
Awkward cutting positions are approximate
locations for 1
common during limbing operations. sequence of
Unsure footing may jeopardize your 2 4
steps
safety when moving between limbing
2
positions. As limbing operations
proceed, always keep the log between 3
you and the saw bar. Protect your legs
1
with safety pants or chaps. Do not
attempt to stand on the tree stem
while limbing it. Instead, work from
the side of the stem.
You may benefit from using a 3
delimbing technique developed in the 2
Nordic countries for coniferous trees.
It also may be modified for use with
hardwood trees. Figure 22 shows 4
appropriate positioning for this
method. Think of this method’s
movements and positioning as if they
were a practiced athletic drill, or even
dance movements. The following
1
delimbing steps are suggested for a 4 3
right-hand saw user:
1. Usually start at the butt of a tree
and cut the limbs in front of you,
Arrows indicate
keeping the saw to the right side of saw movement
your body. Cut only those limbs
that can be reached comfortably
with the saw tucked close to your
right side. Figure 22—Nordic delimbing technique. Arrows indicate saw movement or
direction up the tree stem.
2. At the end of the sweeping, cutting
motion, change your grip on the
saw handle to the left side of the
saw, reposition your feet, and turn is used to lever the saw into position 5. At the end of the sweeping move-
the bar parallel to the stem. Use the for cutting the limbs. Cut what you ment, reposition the left hand to the
top of the bar to slide along the can reach without overextending top of the handle and begin Step 1
stem. Cut the limbs on top of the yourself. again.
stem toward the butt of the tree 4. With the saw resting on the stem, With practice, these steps will form
where you started. and the bar on the opposite side, a pattern that has several benefits. The
3. Reposition your grip to the top of step forward to a new position and lower back is kept straight, and the
the saw handles and turn the saw so face the stem. Grip the saw on the large muscles of the legs do most of
it rests on top of the stem. The front left part of the handle, bend your the work. The weight of the saw is
of the saw will be on top of the knees keeping a straight back, and off-loaded to the tree stem for much
stem, and the bar will be in a cut the limbs on the bottom of the of the time, rather than carried by the
vertical position on the opposite stem in a sweeping motion toward arms. Legs are better protected,
side of the stem. Use the stem as the butt of the tree. Use the top of especially when moving to a new
leverage point and slide the saw the bar, keeping the bar parallel to position with the saw on the opposite
forward, cutting the limbs on the the bottom of the tree and pressed side of the tree stem. Nothing in the
opposite side of the tree. The stem against the stem during the move- pattern restricts handling unusual
supports the weight of the saw and ment. circumstances when they arise.

11
Problem Trees aware of overhead hazards. Several cut using the remaining wood on
escape paths may be required. either side of the center cut as a
Multiple stems Occasionally, conifers will have hinge.
double stems originating from a single 3. Large leaning trees may require
Multiple stems growing from one
stump. If the split occurs at a height two side cuts. Wood that remains in
stump can be unusually difficult for
greater than you can reach with a saw, the tree’s center portion will hold
inexperienced cutters. You may find
yourself in awkward cutting positions there may be sufficient wood holding the tree. Make a back cut quickly in
the two stems together to enable you order to release the remaining
and have difficulty determining the
to fell the tree as if it had a single wood. However, a substantial
direction-of-fall. Normally, you
stem. Its direction-of-fall should be amount of wood will break away as
should treat each stem as if it were a
perpendicular to the horizontal long the tree falls (Figure 25c).
single tree.
axis of the two stems (Figure 23).
Felling multiple stems requires that
you begin with the outermost stem. Regardless of fork height, examine
the trunk cautiously. Locate a well-
Fell the stem in its natural direction-
defined vertical seam or scar indicat-
of-fall. As you cut each stem, be
ing separation between the two stems.
If the split occurs at a height you
can reach with a saw, fell the stems Front views
Front view
separately. Cut vertically down the
seam with your saw. Select the
direction-of-fall on one of the stems
and make an undercut. Make your
back cut, leave an adequate amount of
hinge wood, and fell the tree. You can
fell the remaining stem either with or
against the lean (Figure 24).

Leaning trees
Long Trees that lean heavily are prob-
axis
lems for even the most experienced
cutter. As a beginner, do not attempt
to fell trees that lean heavily until you Cut down-
gain skills from an experienced cutter. ward to
Basic skills will allow you to fell trees Direction- separate
having moderate lean. Obviously, of-fall
Boring
trees can be felled with the least back
amount of difficulty toward the cut
direction in which they lean naturally.
Direction- Begin by selecting an appropriate
of-fall undercut. Depth of the undercut will
be approximately one-third the tree’s
diameter. Pay careful attention to
Side view
matching your saw cuts. Depending
upon the tree’s size and its degree of
lean, you might use one of the Fell remaining
following types of back cuts. stem with lean or
correct for lean
1. For trees whose diameter-at-breast-
height (dbh) is less than 12 inches,
use a standard back cut. Make the
back cut rapidly because a substan-
tial amount of hinge wood will
break away quickly. As the tree
begins to fall, continue cutting until
desired hinge wood thickness is
achieved (Figure 25a).
2. For larger trees with more lean, you
may choose to bore the center of
the back cut. This will reduce the
likelihood of producing a barber
Direction-of-fall
chair (Figure 25b). After the tree
has been bored, make a quick back
Figure 23—Felling two stems together. Figure 24—Felling stems separately.

12
 Correcting for moderate lean. as soon as there is ample room, and wedging can correct. Values are
“Holding wood” may be used to keep them tight in the cut. approximate and apply to trees whose
directionally fell trees with moderate Proper wedging can lift a tree into stump diameter varies between 12 and
lean. Holding wood is additional an upright position. Ideally, wedges 24 inches.
wood left on the hinge to provide a will provide approximately 1 inch of Amount of lean (ft) Tree height (ft)
holding force opposite the direction of tree lift. Alternately cutting the back
natural lean (Figure 26). Usually, cut and wedging will shift a tree away 4 50
hinge wood should not be cut because from its natural lean, through a 7 100
it helps control a tree’s direction and vertical position, and toward a more 10 150
rate of fall. desirable direction-of-fall. Using wedges, it may be possible
If additional lift is required, you for experts to fell trees with even
Felling against the lean can place one wedge on top of greater lean. Hydraulic rams can be
Trees that lean heavily can be another. This practice will almost used to lift leaning trees. Cables
felled against their lean. However, double the lifting capability of your attached to heavy machinery also may
you often need considerable judgment wedges. Continue the process until be used to pull a heavily leaning tree
gained from years of cutting experi- the tree is relieved of its lean and into an upright position for directional
ence. Felling against the direction of straightens (Figure 27). felling.
natural lean is accomplished using A hinge of wood always is needed
hand tools and special felling tech- to maintain tree control. An experi-
niques. enced timber cutter can determine
You will need two or more soft whether to increase the depth of the Leave more holding wood to
plastic wedges to lift the leaning tree. back cut by monitoring the amount of correct for lean
Make a shallow undercut approxi- force needed to drive the wedges.
mately one-fourth the tree’s diameter Removing the bark will allow you to
to achieve a longer lever arm for the monitor the effectiveness of your
wedges to lift. Clear away the bark wedge. Once you have achieved an
Direction-
where you will insert the wedges adequate hinge from the back cut, of-fall
under the point of the tree’s lean. Start continue wedging until the tree falls.
the back cut there, insert both wedges The following guidelines indicate
the maximum amount of lean that
Lean

Figure 26—Correcting for moderate

lean using holding wood.

Chain to
prevent
splitting

Direction-
Larger hinge of-fall
Lean
Deeper undercut
Direction-of-fall and lean
Wedges

a.
Direction-of-fall
and lean Direction-
Boring cut of-
b.
fall Lean

Side notch Direction-of-fall

and lean
Final cut
Side notch

c.
Figure 25—Felling trees with the lean. Figure 27—Felling against the lean
using wedges.

13
Hangups
Eventually, every timber cutter
will create a hangup. Hangups occur
when a felled tree becomes lodged in
a standing tree. Once a hangup
occurs, find a safe location where you First make a shallow
can carefully evaluate the situation. cut on top or cut out
Lodged trees often are held only by a wedge
their limbs, which can break and
release the hangup to fall suddenly
and unexpectedly. Never attempt to
fell the tree in which a hangup is
lodged! Cut from bottom
Always keep the tree in which the
hangup is lodged between you and the
hangup itself. If you are unable to free
the hangup safely, seek advice from a.
an experienced cutter. Two techniques
commonly are used to safely get the
hung tree on the ground (Figure 28).
The first is most effective for trees
whose diameter is less than 18 inches.
1. Cutting away the butt. Making a
cut part way up the butt of the tree
may clear the hangup. First, make a
shallow V-shaped cut on the top of Fell this tree across
the tree (see “Bucking”), then make hung tree
a cut from the bottom. Severing the
stem may cause the tree to dislodge
itself from the hangup.
Two or more of these sequences
may be required to get the tree
clear. If possible, between each of
these sequences, try to roll the tree
clear using a peavey or similar tool.
Watch the top of the hangup
carefully, and be prepared to make
an escape.
2. Felling another tree into the Do not
attempt to
hangup. Sometimes a hangup can
cut this tree
be cleared by felling an adjacent
tree into the hangup. The tree
should strike the hangup with
sufficient force to break either the
tree or the obstacle.
Hung tree
If the original hangup causes
another tree to become lodged, use
lines from machines or seek assis-
tance from an experienced cutter. Do
not compound a safety problem by
building a tepee of hung trees. Mark
the hangups with colored “danger”
ribbon and get help.
Specific skills are required to cut
problem trees. Evaluate each tree
carefully and do not attempt to fell a
tree if you have any doubts about
what will happen. Seek assistance b.
from a more experienced professional.
Figure 28—Cutting down hangups by (a) cutting away the butt, and (b) felling
another tree into the hangup.

14
 Summary Checklist
Timber cutters must recall and utilize a vast assortment Felling and bucking timber can be extremely danger-
of information. The following checklist will assist you in ous. However, you can make the process safer through
this exercise. Ideally, the checklist will become a set of proper use of safety equipment and cutting techniques.
mental habits, but explicit reminders will be needed.
Consider making a pocket card checklist for your use.

1. Prepare to perform the job safely. 5. Make the back cut.

• Personal protective equipment (hardhat, • Shout a warning and listen for replies.
ear and eye protection, safety pants or • Use wedges as needed.
chaps, first-aid kit, etc.) • Make the back cut approximately 1 inch
• Tools and supplies (axe, wedges, peavey, higher than the undercut.
etc.) • Don’t cut off the holding wood.
• Saw and chain maintained • Leave a hinge to control the fall.
2. Evaluate cutting conditions. 6. Move to safety and watch for overhead
• Weather hazards.
• Escape routes • Is help needed to clear a hangup?
• Cutting positions • Are hazardous, broken limbs left in
• Timber felling pattern adjacent trees?
3. Evaluate the tree and its direction-of-fall. 7. Evaluate the limbs before limbing.
• Did you use a plumb bob? • Look for limbs under tension.
• Were lean and limb loading determined? • Look for springpoles.
• Is rot present? 8. Determine if the bucking cut can be made
• Is this a danger tree? safely.
4. Make the undercut. • Determine the location of compression
• Are the cuts level? Do the cuts match up? wood, tension wood, and the way the
Is the face cleaned out? bucked pieces will move.
• Does the undercut face the direction-of- • Buck from the uphill side.
fall? 9. Never work alone!
• Is there proper depth?
10. Never work fatigued!

15
For Further Reading Garland, J.J., Increasing Values Erickson, S., Production Felling
Through Improved Bucking Practices: Through Safety: The Game of
OSU Extension publications Manufacturing Logs, EC 1184 Logging (American Pulpwood
(Oregon State University, Corvallis, Association, Washington, DC, 1994).
To order copies of the following
reprinted 1993). $2.50 Faller’s and Bucker’s Handbook
publications, send the publication’s
(Worker’s Compensation Board of
complete title and series number,
along with a check or money order for Other publications British Columbia, Vancouver, BC,
Chain Saw Manual, 2nd edition 1973).
the amount listed, to:
(American Pulpwood Association, Falling and Bucking Safety Guide
Publication Orders (Oregon Occupational Safety and
Extension and Station Danville, IL, 1988).
Chain Saw Safety Manual, Stihl, Health Division, Salem, OR, 1992).
Communications Safe Design and Use of Chain
Oregon State University Waiblingen, Germany, nd. (Mention
of trade names does not constitute an Saws (International Labor Office,
422 Kerr Administration Geneva, Switzerland, 1978).
Corvallis, OR 97331-2119 endorsement. Many saw manufactur-
ers offer advice in their operator’s Sarna, R.P., Chain Saw Manual
Fax: (541) 737-0817 (The Interstate, Danville, IL, 1979).
If you would like additional copies manuals.)
Conway, Steve, Timber Cutting Soderstrom, N., Chain Saw Savvy
of this publication, Felling and (Morgan and Morgan, New York,
Bucking Techniques for Woodland Practices, 2nd edition (Miller-
Freeman Publications, San Francisco, NY, 1982).
Owners, EC 1124, send $1.50 per
copy to the above address. 1978). World Wide Web
We offer discounts on orders of You can access our Educational
100 or more copies of a single title. Materials catalog and some of our
Please call (541) 737-2513 for price publications through our Web page at
quotes. http://wwwagcomm.ads.orst.edu/

© 1996 Oregon State University

The Woodland Workbook is a collection of publications prepared by the Oregon State
University Extension Service specifically for owners and managers of private, nonindus-
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