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TABLE OF CONTENTS:
Introduction

Chapter 1: Gathering your art supplies

- watercolor paint
- watercolor paper
- watercolor brushes
- must-have tools for watercolor painting

Chapter 2: Watercolor Basics

- mixing paints with watercolor
- color chart

Chapter 3: Watercolor Techniques and it’s best practices

- 6 watercolor techniques
- Watercolor FAQ’s
- 7 watercolor painting tips and tricks for beginners
Painting with watercolours can be either super fun – or super frustrating!

This really depends on what you first start learning about watercolor. If you start
from basics, then you are in luck of making this process less of a hassle for
yourself.

It’s no secret that watercolors are one of the hardest mediums to master.
This guide is the best for anyone who is a beginner and looking to learn about
watercolor and to crack it's code!

Let me tell you a little bit about my story with watercolors.

I have been painting since a very young age, from the age of 5 actually. It was
really fun in the beginning and then I saw that it just did not look as good as I
would have wanted it to look.

So I got upset and started to look for ways to improve my skill.

This will be the guide is all about how to draw with watercolor and what I
wish someone told me when I was just starting out.

Hopefully, after you finish reading this guide, you will get a much deeper and
better understanding of watercolor paint – and you won’t go through the same
frustration as I did when I was at the very beginning of my creative journey.
CHAPTER 1: GATHERING YOUR ART
SUPPLIES
So the first and the most important step would be to understand the different art
supplies that you need to get started. My biggest tips are not to go with the
cheapest, as higher quality materials will improve your results instantly.

There are essentially 3 types of watercolor paints: Tube Watercolors, Cake

Watercolors, and Gouache.

TUBE WATERCOLOURS:
They come in liquid form in tubes. Paint in a form like that is the easiest to be
mixed on a palette.

How to use it?

You have to squeeze a small amount of paint on to your pallet and dilute with
water before painting. Or another way is to let them dry overnight on your
palette and there you will have it in the consistency of the cake watercolors.

CAKE WATERCOLOURS:
Those are the paints in solid form. This form of paint is the most convenient as
you can take them anywhere with you, as they won't spill over and make a
mess, yet may be very easy to get colours dirty when painting.

How to use it?

Wet your brush and dip it into the cake to pick up the pigment. Another way is
to use the spray bottle and spray the paints with water so it gets moistened and
then start painting. Both are correct ways.
CAN TUBE AND CAKE WATERCOLOURS USED TOGETHER?

Yes, you can use watercolors in a pan and from a tube in the same painting.
You can even mix one color from a tube and combine it with another from a
pan. I’ve never had a problem with this.

GOUACHE:
It is basically an opaque watercolor. You have much more control over this kind
of paint and it also dries much lighter than initially expected it would.

There are 2 types of qualities when it comes to paper: Artist’s Quality(higher

quality) and Student’s Quality.

Artists’ quality paper is Acid-Free what means that it will last for a very long
time and not become yellow.

If you are just a beginner, Student’s quality one will be just fine!

The best paper to use for watercolour painting, even as a complete beginner is
the one thats especially used for watercolour painting. That paper usually has a
weight of 300g or higher.

It can be cold-pressed, hot-pressed, and rough. I was very confused what

each type was and here is a detailed overview of each.

Watercolour paper is made using a mixture of water and cellulose fibers.

COLD PRESSED:
Cold-pressed paper usually contains a feature of a course tooth. When this
paper is produced, unheated cylinders are used to press the paper what will
result in irregular indentions on the surface of the paper.

HOT PRESSED:
it is the opposite of cold pressed. This paper will rely on having a much
smoother surface. The heat causes the paper to conform to the smooth mold
producing surface. This is perfect for detailed work, but some may find it too
slippery, which would make it difficult to control the paint. It’s less absorbent, so
pigments look brighter on the surface.

ROUGH:
In this case, these papers are not produced by cylinder pressers. Instead, they
are flat pressed or not pressed at all. This really results in heavy tooth rough
paper that can withstand many many layers of washes. That paper is good for
washes because it gives them a kind of luminosity.

PAPERWEIGHT:
A simple rule of thumb would be:

Heavier the paper, more water it can absorb and rarely needs stretching.
Heavier the paper, higher the price-tag would be.
You only would need to stretch it if you are using heavy washes.

Investing in a high-quality brush is crucial. It will influence the quality of work.

It can improve drastically when you buy something higher quality.
BRUSHES SHAPES:

ROUND:
This brush is the most versatile brush. They usually feature a flat “toe” and are
capable of producing detailed controlled marks as well as thicker marks.
Nos. 00000 to 24; a good basic selection of rounds would include Nos. 3, 5 and
12.

FLAT:
This kind of brush has a straight edge. They usually feature a flat “toe” and
are capable of producing flat strokes. They are perfect to be used to created
defined edges, controlled lines, and clean washes.

WASH:
This is a perfect brush to lay bare washes on a big piece of paper. A 1½-inch
and a 3-inch are the most useful.

LINER:
It is a small and fine brush that is used small lines as well as for signing the
finished paintings.

MOP:
This brush is perfect for spreading even washes of color over a large area
faster.

RIGGER:
This brush has very long, thin hair. They allow very fine rendering with thin
lines.

HAKE:
This wide, flat brush has a flat handle and is useful for laying down large
washes.

REFILLABLE BRUSHES:
They are perfect for beginners as you don’t have to be dipping into the water all
the time. It helps to control the amount of water and create the perfect
substance and color. If you are a newbie, this is for you!
2 JARS OF WATER: Most crucial element for watercolour painting. One jar is
for rinsing your brushes and the next one will be used for mixing new colours.
This will ensure clean colours at all times.

PALETTE: Watercolour palettes are crucial for painting. They must be flat,
white and impervious to water at the very least. You can also use simple
paper if you are on a budget to mix paints also works very well. I used that
when I was just starting out.

SPONGES/PAPER TOWEL: If you need to dry up excess paint on paper, this

will be your go to material. Also can be used to moisten or to create interesting
textures. For a newbie, paper towel is enough.

PENCIL: Best to use 3H or 2H pencils as they are simply easier to erase. I

usually press too hard so a light pencil cures the ugly unerasble lines of my
initial sketch. But if you just have only HB pencil, that is alright.

MASKING FLUID AND TAPE: This allows us to preserve the white areas on
the paper what gives your artwork the professional touch. It also prevents the
ugly buckle of the paper.

SPRAY BOTTLE: This is perfect for preventing the paint from drying up too
fast and essentially can be used for special effects (see more later in Chapter
3.)

KNEADED ERASER: This is the most delicate eraser, as it allows you to

remove a bit of colour from the initial sketch itself, without removing too much
pencil, so you can still see the lines, but you won't be able to see them after the
finished painting.
HAIR TYPES:

SABLE: Sable hairs are soft and springy. They are capable of holding a
sharp point for a controlled painting. Although, the name is taken from an
animal called “sable” they are usually taken from weasel or mink.

SYNTHETIC: Hairs are made of nylon or polyester fibers, the most versatile
paint brush out of them all. They are good with any type of paint, not only
watercolors. If you are still not sure which brush to buy, those ones usually last
longer and much cheaper to buy.

GOAT: Hairs of the brush lack the spring but they are capable of producing
high-quality washes for your painting. The only downfall of this brush is the
hairs usually fall out so be on a watch out.
CHAPTER 2: WATERCOLOR FIRST
BRUSH STROKES
TIPS FOR MIXING THE PAINTS WITH WATER:

The best way to mix paint is to do that using a palette, lid, plain paper or
watercolor itself. You just need a bit of water and paint.

It will take a little practice to get a hang of it first. You will be able to tell if the
brush has too much or too little water with time as well as how much colour you
need for each area of a painting. Before taking a new colour, make sure your
brush is rinsed very well.

If there is too much water, simply blot the excess on a tissue.

When you are mixing colours, it is great to put a sample on a scratch paper to
see how the colour would be actually like before putting it on the painting so
you won't get any surprises and ruin it.

MAKE A COLOR CHART:

Making a colour chart is perfect for when you are just trying out the
watercolour for the very first time.

Not only they are pretty, but they will also give you an idea of what each colour
will actually look like, as when the colours are dry colours are very different, as
they have initially appeared while being wet.
CHAPTER 3: WATERCOLOUR
TECHNIQUES AND IT’S BEST
PRACTICES
1. Wet on Wet:

This method is mostly used for painting landscapes, simple skies, or soft
watercolor washes as the end result is usually a soft and flowing look. We are
simply putting wet paint on top of the wet surface.
The downside is that the paint is very hard to control.

1. First, wet your brush with clean and plain water and paint 2 rectangles.
2. Those 2 rectangles will be hard to see because there is no pigment but if you
tilt the paper a bit you will be able to see where everything is.
3. Pick up the moistened paint from the palette. You simply slide your brush
from left to right, until you cover it fully.
4. In the second rectangle just add the dabs of paint and see how aesthetic it is.

2. Flat Wash

They are the most basic techniques you will need when you are just covering
one area with color. It is perfect for backgrouds.

1. Pick the color that you like and start from the upper corner going all the way
down. Make sure that the paint is spread out evenly throughout. Keep an
eye that your brush holds enough water and has a drop of
3. The result should be a flat wash of one color.
4. Gradation:

Gradation can be created to transition from one color to the next, or from
concentrated color to a much less concentrated color.

here is no rule, but I like to start with the darkest color and go all the way down
by simply drawing each stroke, as wash the pigment off as I go along in my
painting. The same logic would be used if there is a desired outcome for
gradation between 2 colors.

5. Paint Lifting:

In watercolour, the colour can be removed or lifted after it had been applied.
This technique is perfect for mistake fixing, lighten values or creating cool
textures.

1. So the first step would be to apply water to the areas where you would
like to remove the paint from.
- Heavier the application of water, more of the pigment will be lifted from the
painting.
2. Color then can be removed using a brush, a paper towel, sponge or any
other absorbent material. Dab it where you want that effect.
3. Areas, where the colour has been lifted are lighter and have less vivid
pigment.
Getting precise:

This is a very simple activity to practice painting around the edges of the
different shapes in a controlled way. In this example I am demonstrating on the
moon and stars.

1. Use 2 different types of brushes, smaller brush for tough to reach areas
and larger round brush when you’re filling out larger areas.
2. Get really close to each shape. The goal is to paint as close as you can
without actually touching the first shape. You will have very fine white lines
between the shapes and the background.
How do I avoid dull, muddy colors?
The answer is pretty simple. Just make sure that you are using clean water
when mixing the paint and that you are rinsing your brush constantly. Make
sure to use 2 jars for watercolor painting.

How do I get whites and highlights?

If you do a very well detailed sketch, the white areas just have to be sketched
out to be left to be white. Apply paint around the white areas or use a masking
tape on those areas. Also, spray water on the areas and dab with tissue where
you want the area to be lighter.

How can I avoid blooms?

Some artists welcome those as they help to create the effect and the desired
look and texture, but to avoid them you will have to simply avoid loading your
brush with too much paint and water. Always, before putting the paint on paper,
dab it on a paper towel.

How to stretch your paper?

The lightweight paper will buckle when wet unless it’s stretched. Soak the
paper in clean water for 10 to 15 minutes; then attach it to a flat board with
tape, staples, tacks or glue and allow it to dry.

The paper shrinks as it dries, creating tension across the surface. Cut the
finished painting from the board.

Many artists prefer to paint on heavier paper to avoid the effort of stretching it
and to preserve the natural deckled edges
 7

#1. Take a Class:

This guide is just scratching the surface of watercolor painting. You should go
and try a few online courses.

This is what I recommend for all of my subscribers as I believe this is the best
course out here, really affordable and super fun to learn from.
It is called "Playing with watercolor."

If you have a goal in mind to learn watrecolor, this is a way to do it.

You can also often find watercolor classes at libraries, community colleges, and
even local high schools with adult community programs.

#2. Tape Down Your Paper:

This is something that I wish I would have known when I was just starting out a
that has caused wrinkled up paintings. It creates a very aesthetically pleasing
frame around your artwork as well so do not forget to do that.

#3. Let the Watercolor Dry in Between Layers:

It is a great idea to let the layers dry between the layers especially if you did a
nice wet wash and are ready to add details. Giving it enough time to dry will
make it easier to paint the details, so they will turn out as you want.
#4. Practice, Practice, Practice!
It is no surprise that if you ever want to get good at anything that you do, you
will have to practice! Watercolors are very portable is they can be used
anywhere from school break to lunch break at work.

Anything is possible to master when you start where you are today, as much as
you might think that you are not that great.

Daily practice will make you improve and you will become that master at
watercolor.

#5. Don’t forget to use a palette:

This is so crucial as it might be tempting to go straight from paint to paper.
Palette allows your work to be more professional as you as an artist will be
calm and mind at ease that you have all that you need in front of you, no need
to mix.

#6. Always mix more paint than you think you need:
It is especially crucial when you are doing a flat wash. It is so much more
convenient to have more than less.

Trust me on this one, as when you do not. You are mixing the new color, and
watercolor has dried so the blend would not be as nice as you would want.

#7. Have fun!

Art is always fun so please enjoy yourself. Let yourself make as many mistakes
as possible. Watch as many tutorials as you might need online. It will be so
rewarding for you when you let yourself experiment and have a lot of fun. If you
do something, send it over to: [email protected]